Harbors Spring 2013 by HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

HARBORS Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle.

Waterfront Property

Aurora Explorer

Campbell River, BC

Houseboats Lake Union, WA

The London Chef

Going Deep

Fishing with Downriggers

Victoria, BC

USD $6.95 CAN $7.95

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SEEN IN ALL

THE BEST PLACES

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he most appealing destinations often aren’t just around the corner. That’s why we’ve built Ranger Tugs® and Cutwater Boats® in the Pacific Northwest since 1958. Each model features standard bow

and stern thrusters for effortless handling, coupled with fuel-efficient diesel power to bring even remote anchorages within easy reach. A comfortable ride, generous interior and standard equipment make the trip worthwhile. Our boats are designed for easy trailering, to extend your horizons even further. No wonder Ranger Tugs and Cutwater have emerged as leading builders of family cruisers, and the favored choice of experienced owners across North America and worldwide.

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www.mahagonyandmerlot.com Pacific Northwest Region

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Car | Club 4Classic HARBORS of America

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A PERFECT LANDING Seattle’s award-winning Elliott Bay Marina offers an urban oasis with two distinct culinary variations. Enjoy our park like setting for lunch, dinner, or a weekend getaway on your boat – just 3 miles from downtown Seattle.

STOP BY FOR A FREE BOWL OF CHOWDER Try a rich cup of our signature seafood chowder at either Maggie Bluffs or Palisade by visiting elliottbaymarina.net and downloading the coupon. Free 3 hour parking – or call the marina for free shuttle service from Kenmore’s Lake Union hub. Coming by boat? Ask about guest moorage. For details please contact our Harbormaster at 206.285.4817.

elliottbaymarina.net | maggiebluffs.com | palisaderestaurant.com

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Whatever your destination, Red Lion has a location for you. Whether you’re boating the Columbia River, soaring above Seattle atop the Space Needle, skiing the fresh power of Idaho mountains or enjoying the open sky of Montana, we know you’re going to need a good night’s sleep. Wherever your Pacific Northwest adventure takes you, Red Lion Hotels will help make it comfortable.

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LOCATIONS IN

WASHINGTON • OREGON IDAHO • MONTANA redlion.com 800–Red Lion

6956/1112

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SPRING 2013

Features

The Aurora Explorer

Going Deep

The London Chef Cooking School

Waterfront

Kenmore Air Destination Maps

South Lake Union - Seattle

Birdwatching Afloat

Northwest Author Spotlight

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A Unique Way to Explore Campbell River Fishing with Downriggers A Recipe for Success in Victoria, BC

San Juan Island Unique Waterfront Home South Zone / North Zone Houseboat History Birding the San Juan Islands Christine Smith: Building the David B

Travel Savvy

Flying Fish Back Home

Winter Flyaways

Victoria • San Juan Islands • Lummi Island

Cover Photo Cruising the San Juan Islands aboard Hanalei, a 74' Nordlund owned by Steve Snyder–Yakima, WA. Photo by AJ Hunt The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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volume 4 issue 2

HA R B OR S The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

HARBORS Pacific Northwest Adventures Website For exciting views of the most sought after adventure destinations around the waters of WA and BC.

CONTACT P.O. Box 1393 Port Townsend, WA 98368

E: info@harborsmagazine.com W: www.harborsmagazine.com

PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey BUSINESS DEVELOPMENT Larry T. Lynott ART DIRECTOR Anika Colvin EDITOR Susan Colby query@harborsmagazine.com COPY EDITING Vincent Hagel Craig O’Neill CONTRIBUTORS Laurie Carter Betsy Crowfoot Vincent Hagel AJ Hunt Jane Mundy

Joanne Nesbitt Terry W. Sheely Irene Middleman Thomas Corrine Whiting

ADVERTISING SALES ads@harborsmagazine.com Katherine Kjaer, Canada Mary Ellen Kennedy, Greater Seattle PHOTO CREDITS Courtesy of:

Adventure & Lifestyle Videos Boating & Fishing Webcams Adventure Twitter Feeds Fishing & Weather Reports Adventure Blogging Navigation Maps Articles & Photography Nature & Wildlife Viewing Fishing Lodges Resorts & Spas via Internet • Smartphone • iPad For advertising information contact: HARBORS Magazine 8

| call HARBORS www.harborsmagazine.com 360-821-1047

Aurora Explorer, pgs. 12-17 Terry W. Sheely, pgs. 18-22 The London Chef pgs. 24-29 Michael Shopenn, pgs. 30-34 Kevin Bagley, pgs. 42-43 Wildshots, pgs. 46-47, 50 Traci Walters, pg. 48

Claude Steelman, pgs. 48-49 David B, pgs. 54-55 Doug Wilson, pg. 56 Parkside Victoria Spa, pgs. 58-59 Snug Harbor, pgs. 60-61 Willows Inn, pgs. 62-63

WEB DESIGN & VIDEO PRODUCTION Citrus Pie Marketing Group

HARBORS magazine is printed by Journal Graphics, Portland, OR.

HARBORS magazine is printed on recycled paper. DISTRIBUTED BY

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SUBSCRIPTIONS AVAILABLE www.harborsmagazine.com © 2013 by All Ports Media Group All rights reserved. Partial or whole reproduction is prohibited. The publisher will not be held responsible for errors in advertising beyond the cost of the space of the ad. No changes may be made or cancellation accepted after the publication deadline date. Opinions expressed in signed articles are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of this magazine or Kenmore Air Harbor, Inc.

HAR B O R S

Welcome to our spring issue of HARBORS magazine.

Harbor Lights A Note from the Publisher So far, 2013 has been a big year for All Ports Media Group and HARBORS magazine. First of all, we have brought on two new associates to help expand our business and distribution. Katherine Kjaer is our new Account Executive handling the Canadian market and Mary Ellen Kennedy is our new Account Executive for the Greater Seattle market. In addition, Larry Lynott has joined our team as a senior partner and VP of Business Development. Our plan is to broaden our distribution and readership by 60 percent this year. To accomplish this goal, we are expanding our advertising options to include a multi-media package of Internet, video, smartphone and print. We are redesigning our existing website, and adding a new HARBORS Adventures website which will be interactive and include webcams strategically located around the Puget Sound and Salish Sea area. Viewers can check local weather, see marinas, resorts, fishing reports and wildlife sightings. Up-to-date Twitter feeds and posts will keep readers aware of whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s happening around the islands and coastline destinations. The new website will feature adventure and lifestyle videos and articles about all our destinations. There will also be options for advertisers to have their own promotional videos on the new site. HARBORS Magazine is dedicated to continually improving and staying current with new technology so our readers have the many adventure destinations the Pacific Northwest has to offer right at their fingertips. We are excited to be joining efforts with the Citrus Pie Marketing Group in Vancouver, BC, which will be the new technology branch of All Ports Media Group. Enjoy the magazine, your journey and your destination.

Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher

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HARBORS Travel Club Card

Participating Businesses & Organizations HARBORS Travel Club Members receive a 10% or greater rewards discount at the following participating businesses. The rewards vary by business and are restricted to regular priced merchandise and services. Contact the individual businesses for restrictions and details or go to: www.harborsmagazine.com/travel-club Victoria/Vancouver Island, BC

Abigail’s Hotel Bear Mountain Westin Bear Mountain Golf Resort Brentwood Bay Lodge Delta Victoria Ocean Pointe Resort and Spa Hotel Grand Pacific Fairholme Manor Parkside Victoria Resort & Spa Prestige Oceanfront Resort Prime Steakhouse & Lounge Royal BC Museum Sauce Restaurant & Lounge Sooke Harbour House Victoria Regent Waterfront Hotel Waters Edge Resort at Pacific Rim

San Juan Islands

Orcas Island: Doe Bay Resort & Retreats Orcas Island Golf Course San Juan Island: Afterglow Spa Roche Harbor Bird Rock Hotel Coho Restaurant Crystal Seas Kayaking Day Tours Earthbox Motel & Spa Friday Harbor House Friday Harbor Marine Harrison House Suites Horseshu Guest Ranch Island Inn 123 West Island Wine Company Joe Friday’s Shirt Company Kings Marine Center Orcas Suites States Inn & Ranch San Juan Classic Day Sailing San Juan Excursions, Whale Watching San Juan Vineyards Susie’s Mopeds Trumpeter Inn Bed and Breakfast Tucker House Bed and Breakfast Waterworks Art Gallery

Olympic Peninsula

Bella Italia Restaurant George Washington Inn Gift Shop, Port Angeles Port Ludlow Resort Quileute Oceanside Resort

Northern BC Islands Dent Island Lodge EhaArt, Pender Island Poet’s Cove Resort & Spa Rendezvous Lodge

Seattle

Center for Wooden Boats DiStefano Winery (Woodinville) ExOfficio Holiday Inn Seattle Jillian’s Billiards Kenmore Air Seattle Scenic Flights Kenmore Air Gift Shop Lake Washington Terminal MarQueen Hotel Quality Inn & Suites, Seattle Center Trago Cocina ZUM Fitness

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See www.harborsmagazine.com for additional listings and restrictions.

Welcome to Kenmore Air

There is a tradition among pilots that’s as old as aviation itself. It’s called “hangar flying” — sitting around the hangar on days too stormy to fly, trading stories about flying. It can be the next best thing when one is aching for the sky but bound to the ground. I think of the Kenmore Air Blog as a modern version of hangar flying for the Kenmore Air enthusiast-passenger. Clearly, life generates lots of “storms” that prevent folks from taking Kenmore Air flights to exciting destinations as often as they might like. But the blog provides a great forum for vicarious enjoyment of the Kenmore Air experience anytime, anywhere, and regardless of what else might be going on to keep you from showing up at the dock or airport. Written in a casual, friendly style by our resident blogger Mikaela Cowles, the Kenmore Air Blog features informative blog posts on the exciting places we fly and the great things you can do when you get there. Besides places to go, the Kenmore Air Blog also introduces you to some of the fascinating people you might meet on your travels with us. A recent “Frequent Flyer” post, for example, profiled architect Geoff Prentiss, who commutes on Kenmore Air between homes in Seattle and San Juan Island and whose innovative residential designs grace both the big city and the rural island. Like hangar flying, a blog is ideally a conversation, not a monologue. Not only are reader comments actively solicited on all posts, but Mikaela and the rest of us here at the company are always interested in hearing your stories of Kenmore Air people, flights and places. Join the conversation, and enjoy a little Kenmore Air hangar flying between actual experiences aboard our airline. As always, thanks for flying with us!

Todd Banks President

The Kenmore Air Blog can be found at blog.KenmoreAir.com. You can also subscribe to the posts via Facebook or Twitter.

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The Aurora Explorer By Laurie Carter

A Unique Way to Explore Campbell River “Humpback on the starboard side,” shouts First Mate Kevin, sticking his head down the companionway from the bridge of the motor vessel Aurora Explorer. I grab my camera and leap up from the lunch table. In half-a-dozen steps, I’m through the back door of the main cabin and poised for a shot just as the last tip of a massive tailfin slips out of sight, leaving only a neatly expanding circle on the surface of the sea. I wait a few minutes in case the whale resurfaces within range, but I’m not disappointed when it doesn’t. I already have one good tail shot. Out of habit, I walk to the port rail to see if there’s any action on the other side. We’re motoring north 12

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through Johnstone Strait between Vancouver Island and the British Columbia mainland north of Campbell River. No whales, but ahead, beyond the cargo crowded on our foredeck, a moving white mountain seems to fill the narrow channel. Rhapsody of the Seas towers over us as she muscles past, a virtual ghost ship with no visible signs of life behind her rows of darkly tinted windows and almost no one on deck to wave. Probably all at lunch, I think remembering my own abandoned meal. I return to find a wedge of homemade pecan pie at my place. The passing ship has sparked a lively discussion on cruise travel as my 11 fellow passengers polish off the complimentary

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wine. There’s no argument when I suggest that the folks on that floating island have no idea what they’re missing. No way can they sail to the head of a slender fjord deep in the flank of an all-but-uninhabited wilderness, and than nose up to a driftwoodstrewn beach for an impromptu shore excursion or float at the base of an unnamed ribbon of water cascading from the rainforest into the sea. They might spot wildlife, but from twelve storeys up, they won’t feel the splash of whitesided dolphins frolicking alongside or smell the breath of a spouting humpback. We have. Working Cruise At the start of our five-day cruise,

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BC waters are abundant with friendly finned wildlife like the White-sided dolphin.

I boarded the 135-foot landing craft via the drawbridge bow, greeted by Captain Ron and his crew of five, including Donna, our all-important cook, and Shannon, the mind-reading steward who anticipates our every whim. Squeezing past a diesel tanker, pallets of tree seedlings and a host of miscellaneous freight, I make my way to the sterncastle where I’m soon settled in my closet-sized cabin and ready to explore. It doesn’t take long to navigate our little world. Above the accommodation deck, the main cabin serves as lounge and dining room. Large windows provide expansive views and hanging in the corner, a TV monitor constantly updates our charted GPS position. The mini-fridge is stocked with soft drinks, coffee and tea are

He and Kevin constantly wow us with their seamanship as they maneuver the ungainly Aurora...

Handling such a unique vessel takes a skilled and dedicated crew.

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always hot and Donna kills us with an endless supply of fresh baked cookies. A narrow companionway accesses the bridge overhead, where passengers are welcome any time, with comfortable seating arranged so that we can see the action without getting in the way. Our first stop is a pick-up, and I watch in awe as the crew shoehorns a massive yellow logging machine onto the already crammed cargo deck. Throughout the voyage, I’m impressed by their skill, scooting around with a pair of forklifts, shifting boxes and trundling deliveries onto the steep landing stages of remote logging camps. We’re headed for one of those camps as we motor up Loughborough Inlet toward Frazer Bay. I’m reminded of the Chilean fjords. The Coast Mountains aren’t as tall as the Andes, and we won’t spot any glaciers, but it’s the same kind of narrow passage—straight-sided

walls—impenetrable forest. When we’ve unloaded enough supplies at the camp to keep the loggers fed for weeks, Captain Ron orders the engines into reverse. He and Kevin constantly wow us with their seamanship as they maneuver the ungainly Aurora up to floating bunkhouses to top up domestic fuel tanks or pilot her into miniscule spaces like Echo Bay where there’s about a meter to spare between us and the lovely sailboat tethered at the dock.

Coastal legend Billy Proctor is always happy to see the Aurora Explorer enter Echo Bay.

Coastal Life and Legends This stop is the home of coastal legend Billy Proctor. A round, golden dog limps down the angled jetty beside a wiry character of indeterminate age wearing blue jeans, blue peaked cap and a bulky cardigan knit in a red, white and blue sailboat pattern straight out of my memory of the ‘60s. Billy’s little museum is housed in a clapboard cabin filled with floor-toceiling shelves. Antique bits include The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Loggers working near Loughborough Inlet toward Frazer Bay. Even this rustic freight boat provides a pleasant dining room and gracious hospitality to guests aboard.

First Nations totems at Alert Bay glass net floats, stone anchors, hydro insulators, a parade of fishhooks and a newspaper whose headline proclaims the Moon landing. Even in this remote place, Billy’s museum attracts more than 3,000 visitors a year. I buy his book Heart of the Raincoast: A Life Story, and he signs it for me. When Ron toots the whistle, Billy walks us back to the Aurora, grumbling about damn pictures because everybody’s begging him to pose. 16

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The muted thrum of the engine is our constant soundtrack. Laying in my bunk one morning, a change in the tone alerts me to new activity. I roll over for a look out my window and find a pair of boom boats whipping around like sheep dogs herding a flock of floating logs. Their operators jump on and off, trotting along the slippery tree trunks as though they’re out for a jog in the country. Another day I’m lingering over cof-

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fee when the settlement of Alert Bay appears through the mist. On a hill above the harbor, totem poles pierce the sky. With only one hour of shore leave, I beeline for the First Nations burial ground. On our fifth day out, I’m perched on a guest stool in the wheelhouse. Shadowy headlands slowly solidify and darken as we come abeam. Each tree crowding the shore stands in sharp focus, and the tide line looks to

be drawn with a ruler. A solitary bald eagle perched high on a spruce and a couple of sea lions swimming off the point mark our turn home into Menzies Bay. We’ve travelled 456 nautical miles and glimpsed another world.

Aurora Explorer Length – 135’ Beam – 34’ Draft – 9.5’ Year Built – 1972 in Hay River, NWT Brought to Campbell River and operated as an 8 passenger carrying freight boat 1993. In 1999/2000 in Victoria, BC the vessel was enlarged from 8 passenger capacity to 12.

Local residents of British Columbia waters. The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Fishing with Downriggers 18

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Jim Goerg, Lake Stevens, WA downrigger trolling produced this king.

Going Deep Get down, stay down, catch a salmon—that’s the simplified mantra of downrigger disciples, and judging by the number of small boats sprouting booms, riggers and derricks, it’s the “in” way to troll. And why not—downriggers are killer productive, edgy techie and best of all, a tough tactic to screw up. The Pros and Cons of Downriggers The well-promoted pros of downrigger trolling are sandbox simple— precision depth control that targets, with excruciating accuracy, those balls

of bait or horseshoe marks of feeding salmon that pop up on the electronics, frequently followed by weight-free fish fights on light tackle. The cons are cost ($450–800 each for electrics) and every boat needs at least two, another 12-volt battery, rolls of stainless cable, and all the necessary terminal bling to connect the costly parts, and last but not least mechanical gremlins. All Things Considered So here are a few thoughts to chew on. When you pick an electric down-

By Terry W. Sheely rigger, pick one with an indicator light that confirms the unit has juice. Realize that most lifetime warranties die with the original owner. Buy off Craigslist and expect to ante up the rebuild load. Keep the ball wet. Lead downrigger balls should stay in the water unless being brought on board. And add a plastic-coated shock (bungee-style) cord between the downrigger ball and cable. Makes weights easy to handle, cushions impacts and stays in the water until needed. Don’t jerk anything. Jerks (pun

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definitely intended) break gear. Lower lead weights carefully and slowly, rotate downriggers slowly and smoothly, retrieve cable smoothly and continuously. If the downrigger hasn’t been wet for a year or so, attach something heavy to the cable and tow it slowly until the wire stretches out. Unstretched wire will backlash quicker than I can say “Oh, sugar.” Carry tools and spare parts: releases, connectors, bolts, fuses, wire, cables, belts, pliers, WD-40, wire-cutters, crimpers—a downrigger is a machine, and it will fail at the worst time in the best bite. And remember, wire cable rots in saltwater. Forget stretching dangerously across the rail to try to catch a bouncing release clip and leader; carry a boat hook or gaff to snag the leader and you’ll stay inside the boat. Heavier downrigger balls (15–20pounders) will troll straighter and truer than lighter balls that tend to flare out or kite up when fished at any depth deeper than a sunburned coho. When heavy tide is running—and where in the Northwest isn’t the tide heavy?—switch downrigger weights over to flat discus-style. Put the fish shapes, torpedoes and cannonballs away for quieter water. Oval slabs with directional fins troll straighter in strong currents—true. Disc weights also track truer at extreme downrigger depths—150 to 300 feet. Troll with or parallel to current. Salmon face into current and you’ll want your magic offering hitting them head-on, not goosing past them from behind.

(Top) Jim Goerg with big pink caught off downrigger. (Middle) A Sonora anchovie rigged for downriggers. (Bottom) The author caught this silver salmon trolling stacked downrigger lines. 20

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Professional salmon angler Case Harris fine-tunes his downrigger to fish specific depths where salmon are feeding. Watch the speed: the downrigger rule is 2-2 ½ mph for kings and 3 to 4 mph for silvers. Trolling speed and current are variables, but what you want is a downrigger line angle to water of 45 degrees. At this angle, the cable will kite back to where 143 feet of line is fishing 100 feet deep. What About Polarity? Like climate change, you can’t see the little electric charges that spook fish. But it’s real, and with electric downriggers, it needs to be taken into account. Check the cable wire with a voltmeter and hope it shows voltage of +0.5– 0.7 from the electrical ground to the downrigger wire. If voltage is low, add zincs to the motor or trim tabs. If high, check all grounding wires. Or just spend the bucks and buy a so-called “black box” which overrides stray voltage and adjusts electrical discharges from the boat and downrigger. Double Your Odds Double the odds of whacking a salmon by stacking two lures or two rods on a single downrigger cable,

especially at depths under 75 feet. Deeper trolls can run into conflicting currents and tangle stacked rigs, but it’s rarely a problem under 75 feet. You can further reduce tangles by using a shorter leader on top and positioning it at least 20 feet above the bottom leader. The top line should carry a lure with minimum side-to-side darting action like spoons or herring. The easiest way to rig a stack is to attach the first leader line to a release at the weight, lower it 20 feet into the water, and add a small stopper to the downrigger cable. A short leader with a sliding release clip (round-eye snap) is attached above the stopper and will ride down the line to the belly of the cable and stop. Scotty markets a release specifically for stacking called the “Snapper Stacker.” To fish a second rod off one downrigger cable, attach the first lure and leader to a release and lower it, strip off slack fishing line to create a belly in the line and attach the second line to a short leader that free-slides on the mainline. The slider will work down only to the apex of the belly in the slack and stay there on the troll. The trick here is to remember in ad-

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Attaching a flasher to downrigger cable near the weight can double salmon attraction. vance of the crunch that a second line is attached to the downrigger cable, when a 20-pound king smacks the bottom rig and you poke the “up button” on the downrigger. And here’s the best “always” of all. Always deploy weights and rigs while the boat is moving. Drop the gear into the water from a drifting boat and you’ll tangle—it’s a guarantee. Determining drop-back—dropback being the distance the lure is positioned from the release. This topic is pure argument igniter, but for a guideline, if using large metal flashers, feed the lure, leader and flasher and 10 feet of line out before attaching the release, 15 feet for plastic flashers, 12 for small plastic flashers and 10 for smaller metal flashers. If you gave in to the recent spate of publicized hype and switched out standard stainless cable for Specter- or Power Pro-type downrigger braids, you’ll also need to switch out release clips. Padded grip-style release clips 22

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rarely work on slippery braid line. Go with releases that require winding on the fishing line and have a hinged or pivoting pin that snaps out. And with all good dos come a few nevers. These five are from the pros at Scotty Downriggers. Never use heavier weights than fishing conditions require. Heavy weights reduce performance and efficiency, and shorten wire life. Never let the wire go slack. Kinks form, and the wire may spill over the edge of the spool, causing tangles and damage. Never let fishing reels spin freely while lowering weights. Use a slight drag to maintain line control and keep the clicker on to add resistance. Never spool nylon or monofilament line on downriggers. Nylon stretches and shrinks with enough force to damage the equipment and crush spools. Never attempt to retrieve a snagged downrigger cable by hand. Never! You’ll need that hand some day.

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The London Chef Cooking School Combine the contemporary surge of interest in cooking classes, a swanky kitchen, an entertaining and engaging chef and you have The London Chef cooking school in Victoria, BC—a guaranteed recipe for success. Whether you are a novice cook needing to learn the basics, a home cook wanting to learn more skills, or a skilled cook looking for inspiration to keep cooking, you’ll be entertained and educated by a cooking class with chef and owner Dan Hayes. The London Chef offers a variety of classes, from lunch-hour demonstrations to hands-on evening and weekend classes. And age is no barrier when it comes to cooking. Hayes’ customers range from eight to 80. His classes appeal to high-school students and Oak Bay “ladies who lunch.” Darlene Mooney took her friend to a one-hour lunch demonstration for her 60th birthday present. “We learned a lot, and Chef Dan is so entertaining,” says Mooney. “My friend, Christine, is not a cook, and at first she was a bit intimidated, but we have both signed up for the hands-on cooking classes.” Like many home cooks, Mooney tends to cook the same meals at home, but cooking classes get her out of that “boring routine.” “Christine and I took that fastpaced class months ago, but we remember just about everything,” Mooney adds. “Chef gave us tips on mussels, from what to look for when you buy them (shells are shut tight) to prepping (scrub and rinse well) to emulsifying the sauce (shake the pan). “And then he demonstrated steak

By Jane Mundy

A Recipe for Success in Victoria tartare. Both of us were terrified, but Dan instantly put us at ease. He asked if anyone had a problem eating raw meat and a few brave souls put up our hands. We talked about meat safety, cuts of meat, and the history of this particular dish. I thought it was brave of Dan to offer this dish. We cautiously tasted it—beautifully presented with little quenelles on chilled plates—and everyone almost licked their plates clean.” Why risk offering steak tartare instead of a dish more mainstream? “When people pay for lunch that I am demonstrating, I want to give them a slightly different experience,” says Hayes. “When someone explains to you what this dish really is (and not raw hamburger), and it is served in the right manner and style, it is wonderful.”

Hayes is daring. For instance, recently a private class of twelve requested an Italian meal. Instead of doing the quintessential pasta and meatballs, he made risotto nero. He showed the class how to clean and sauté squid and explained where the cuttlefish ink comes from. “Some people would recreate this dish at home, but others just enjoy the entertainment and having dinner,” he chuckles. Back to that recipe for success. Why the sudden surge in interest? “People are increasingly more aware of what they are eating,” says Becky Julseth, a repeat London Chef customer. “And the Food Network is a huge influence. Everyone is talking about Top Chef Canada around the water cooler.” Another repeater, Stacy Kuiack, concurs. “I think cooking schools are becom-

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ing more popular due to the Slow Food Movement, and the Food Network is educational besides making people happy.” You could say that the London Chef does just that. “I haven’t seen anyone stand and stir as well as Dan does,” says Kuiack, who has taken about a dozen classes at The London Chef. “I’ve been to a lot of cooking schools, and some demonstrations are elitist, taught by snobby chefs, but not Dan. His personality reflects the type of food he teaches, like rustic Spanish and Italian. His food is more accessible. You know how everything tastes better when you go camping? It’s like that when you take Dan’s hands-on classes.” Ian Trimble is a “serious cook.” And he’s a serious foodie. Whenever he and his partner travel, they find three-star Michelin restaurants in New York or Paris, so when he raves about Hayes’ cooking, that’s really saying something. “Of all the restaurant meals we’ve had in Victoria, The London Chef meals are the best we’ve had,” he says. So far Trimble has organized two private cooking parties with 12 friends and has already booked another. “I inquired about a French theme, and Micayla (Dan’s wife and manager) sent great suggestions. The second time, I just asked for something we might like based on the first class. We had a French fish stew and gnocchi made from scratch. And scallops with cauliflower vanilla puree; that sounds strange, but it was delicious. However the biggest attraction is his running commentary. As for the

(Top) The U-shaped counters and cooking stations allow Chef Dan to attend to each individual student. (Bottom) The cooking school is designed to be open and inviting, a place to learn in a non-intimidating manner and be entertained at the same time. 26

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The London Chef Steak Tartare Ingredients 1- Âź pounds fresh beef filet, hand diced 2 egg yolks 2 anchovy filets, finely chopped 2 tbsp Dijon mustard 1 tsp Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp olive oil 1 shallot, finely chopped and rinsed 1 small onion, finely chopped Âź cup capers, rinsed 4 cornichons, finely chopped 4 sprigs of flat parsley, finely chopped Method Put the egg yolks, mustard and anchovies in a large stainless steel bowl and mix well. Add the oil and mix again. Fold the onion, shallot, capers, cornichons and parsley into the mixture. Add the chopped meat to the bowl and mix well using your hands. Serve with fresh warm bread, crisp crostini or melba toast.

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With his customary flair, London Chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dan Hayes demonstrates a flambĂ¨ for a cooking class.

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A casual but elegant touch on the communal dining table. He learned how to temper spices and get exactly the right ratio of sugar in the chutney. She learned how to cut an onion and cook pasta. They were both rewarded. Serious cooks are looking for chef tricks, but most important is to have fun. Cooking classes are therapeutic and invigorating and a great way to spend an evening with friends and family. “Everyone used to be part of preparing dinner,” says Chef Dan. “The kids were shelling peas, and Dad was looking in the garden for a rabbit. For us it is great that we can recreate a family atmosphere.”

The London Chef 953 Fort Street Victoria, BC, V8V 3K3 250.590.1865 www.thelondonchef.com

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cost of the private classes, it varies depending upon the menu. Regardless, The London Chef is an absolute steal compared with cooking classes in other cities.” Chef Dan’s teaching style is informal and approachable. He avoids too many measurements; he doesn’t want students to cook by numbers. Rather, he wants you to get a feeling and emotion of the food. And the room reflects his teaching style. It allows people to follow the lead of an instructor (sometimes guest chefs are scheduled) around the U-shaped counter and cooking stations. The instructor can easily jump to people who possibly need a bit more guidance. “We go the pace of the slowest person, so no one falls behind,” adds Hayes. People go home with different experiences and knowledge. Hayes recalls a couple who recently attended a class. She had no cooking skills and her husband was quite accomplished.

Waterfront Luxury Waterfront Properties

Welcome to our new Waterfront section of HARBORS Magazine. Each issue will highlight a unique and special waterfront homes in Washington and British Columbia.

A Unique San Juan Progressive Residence By AJ Hunt

(Top) View from main house of Friday Harbor Marina. (Bottom) Portraits of Nancy and Don Todd painted by artist, Jim Torok. www. jimtorok.com

San Juan Island in Washington State is the location of HARBORS first featured waterfront home. More than just a house, this exquisitely designed four-structure compound is the home of long time San Juan Island residents, Nancy and Don Todd. In 1980, Nancy and Don were traveling around the islands of British Columbia and Washington and ended up on San Juan Island. During their

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The rustic architecture is inspired by the vernacular utilitarian and agricultural building tradition of San Juan Island. The interiors feature plain sliced maple wall panels and Alaskan yellow cedar, while reclaimed fir provides the framing throughout the structure.

A special real estate section of unique waterfront homes. The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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(Above) State of the art kitchen with natural and industrial accents. (Below) Wood beams highlight the studioâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s striking architectural design.

estates to beach cottages any style always with great warmth Orcas Island, WA: (360) 376-3634 Scottsdale, AZ: (480) 994-4887 www.billispringer.com

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stay at Roche Harbor, they became enthralled with the island and decide to investigate buying property. After a brief encounter with a local real estate agent, they made an offer and by the time they caught the next ferry, they were proud island property owners. The first structure they built was what is now called the Main House. A few years later, architect Gordon Lagerquist of Lagerquist and Morris in Seattle, added the 1,000-square-foot studio where Don, an artist, relaxes and paints. The Todd home is a tiered landscape of structures, gardens, decks and sculptures, all well thought out and designed by family members, including Misty Todd, the “reimaginator” interior designer and her architect husband, Don MacKay. Don, a Seattle architect, designed an addition to the Main House in 1998, as well as the 820-square-foot Bunkhouse and surrounding garden areas that include a woodshed and guest gazebos, just steps from the main house. The main house has two floors, is spacious, but quaint. Built for comfort and convenience, the kitchen provides cozy seating with a wood stove and a fabulous waterfront view framing the entrance to Friday Harbor Marina. Many family albums map the numerous nightly sunsets enjoyed from the Main House patio, which extends from the kitchen dining area. The first floor includes foyer entrance, living room, large bath, kitchen and a relaxation room. Upstairs is the large master bedroom and bath. Every room is adorned with three generations of family artwork and photography. The Bunkhouse, adjacent to the main house, also has two floors, with sitting area, kitchen, bath and casual bunk sleeping for up to five guests. The property, just minutes from downtown Friday Harbor, cascades to a beach area. This waterfront oasis features a dock where the Todd’s moor their 30’ Ranger Tug boat called Toddler. Midway between the beach

and the Main House is a comfortable deck and BBQ pit perfect for summer family gatherings. Surrounded by manicured landscaping of plants, sculptures and rockery, this beautiful waterfront dwelling is as lovely as the residents who live and thrive in it.

Hurr y up and Relax Paul Le Baron | Owner Broker #1 Spring Street PO Box 777 Friday Harbor, WA 98250

360.378.7646 cell www.paullebaron.com paul@sanjuans.com Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated.

A special real estate section of unique waterfront homes. The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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The rear view of the bunk house facing Friday Harbor Marina. Seating in front of the bunk house. Window seat in the relaxation room, off the kitchen in main house.

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ED HANDJA Personal Real Estate Corporation & SHELLEY MCKAY Your BC OCEANFRONT TEAM Specializing in Unique Coastal Real Estate in British Columbia

Quadra Island, Open Bay: 5 extraordinary oceanfront acres, 2 small bays, portion of a peninsula - excellent privacy, diverse oceanfront. Historic camp house, mature growth forest, large workshop, drilled well, protected deepwater moorage and dock. $856,000

Sechelt Inlet, BC Coast: Historic Earle Creek logging camp. 32-acre oceanfront property, 2200ft low-bank shoreline. Variety of buildings, deep water moorage facilities, well water, electricity. Ideal group purchase, camp or wellness retreat. $1,650,000

Haida Gwaii Oceanfront Home: North Beach. 1.6 acres, walk on to sandy beaches. 2400sqft 5bdrm home, quality craftsmanship. 16X40ft detached shop, two greenhouses. A well-appointed family home or opportunity for vacation rental, B&B or fishing resort. $595,000

Quatsino Sound Acreages: Timbered oceanfront properties, West Coast Vancouver Island. Low-bank shorelines, river frontage,excellent fishing. Sec26: 38 acres $289,000 Sec10: 105 acres $275,000

Desolation Sound, BC Central Coast: 2 adjoining 50 acre forested properties in Homfray Channel, adjacent to Marine Park. 2000ft combined oceanfront. Moorage potential. No specific zoning, spectacular location. Great wilderness opportunity! $497,500ea

Montague Harbour Marina: The only private marina on Galiano Island. Full service facility, well established business, general store, 57-seat restaurant, gift shop, boat rentals, .38acre & .32acre upland areas & 2 foreshore leases totaling 2.63 acres.

Sayward Valley Acreages: North central Vancouver Island Great potential for recreational, residential or agricultural uses. Easy road access. 120 acres, 700ft riverfront $238,000 45 acres, 2titles, 4000ft riverfront $298,000

Victor Island, Muchalat Inlet, Vancouver Island: Beautifully forested 16-acre private island, unique 890sqft residence requiring some repair and finishing. Moorage located on the southern shore. Quick easy access to the west coast and Nootka Sound. $485,000

Upper Campbell Lake: Beautiful lakefront properties near Campbell River on Vancouver Island. *4.5 treed acres, private,1300sqft residence, guest cabin. $498,000 *900sqft, 3bdrm cottage, sizable pier $348,500

Malcolm Island Home & Acreage: 4.5 acres semi-oceanfront, 1400sqft 2bdrm home in Mitchell Bay. Modern interior and cottagestyle exterior. Sunny exposure, beautiful landscaping including a pond. Workshop, outbuildings, and drilled well. $385,000

Cortes Island Home & Private Moorage: A great property! 1-acre oceanfront, 207ft of beachfront in Gorge Harbour. Charismatic 2500sqft home/cottage, numerous upgrades, wrap-around cedar deck. Detached shop with power. Substantial dock & ramp. $524,000

PR IC E

Read Island Oceanfront: Exceptional 21-acre oceanfront property, 1300ft shorefront, 5 cleared acres. 3 bdrm plus loft main residence. An additional 1296sqft 2-storey with a media centre, mechanical rooms and 2 bdrm suite. Standing pier and dock. $650,000

The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine www.bcoceanfront.com

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• Great Choices for Residential Use & Year-round Living • www.bcoceanfront.com • Great Choices for Residential Use & Year-round Living •

Ed: 250.287.0011 Shelley: 250.830.4435 Toll Free: 800.563.7322 edhandja@bcoceanfront.com & shelleymckay@bcoceanfront.com

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LIVING THE LIFE ON

QUAMICHAN LAKE - 12 picturesque acres for sale in Duncan, BC - 341 feet of lake frontage - Tranquil, gently sloping property - Charming home w/ stunning lake & mountain views

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- Close to Raven Field & Maple Bay Marina (Harbour Air) - Park your floatplane at your private dock! - 30 min to Nanaimo Airport & less than 1 hr to Victoria

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Olympia to Nanaimo

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Nanaimo to Port Hardy

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SLU

South Lake Union

Neighborhood Happenings

Seattle’s South Lake Union Neighborhood, home of Kenmore Air’s Seaplane Terminal.

Lake Union Houseboats Sleepless in Seattle may have tempted countless viewers to relocate to a houseboat, but residents of this city have long been onboard with the romantic notion. Houseboats have existed since Seattle was founded, initially built as homes for loggers, fishermen and boat makers. So what does houseboat living today entail? By all accounts, the positives abound. Kevin Bagley insists that “the sacrifices are minimal compared to the gains.” Residents rave about kayaks tied to front decks, tight-knit communities and front-row seats to spectacular fireworks that explode over Lake Union each Fourth of July. 42

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Linda and Kevin Bagley of Special Agents Realty have lived and worked on this lake since 2006 and they appreciate their good fortune every day. (In 2011, HGTV’s House Hunters featured the couple in an episode that featured Lake Union in all of its summertime glory.) As the content owners of a live-aboard paddleboat, they are staunch advocates for the community to which they belong. The Bagleys founded the Lake Union Liveaboard Association, aiming “to support best management practices” and to serve as “Guardians of the Lake.” The Bagleys explain the oft-overlooked distinctions between Seattle’s

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By Corinne Whiting “vessels” (capable of self-navigation, sometimes called “houseboats” or “liveaboards”), “floating homes” (residences permanently connected to utilities) and “house barges” (vessels lacking self-propulsion, grandfathered in in the early 1990s). Recent confusion over terminology has exacerbated the ongoing battle between the city and owners of these homes. Politics mixed with the sudden “reinterpretation” of pre-existing regulations have placed 150 houseboats in danger of being banned, an issue that has Lake residents up in arms. Some typical sights houseboaters enjoy out their windows are blue heron,

playful sea otters and Ride the Ducks’ tourist-toting, amphibious vehicles. On the zanier side: hot tub boats and a lone submarine. Kevin comments, “This Lake is alive.” In the mornings, members of the UW rowing team slice the placid water with their synchronized oars and, at night, with the lake as still as glass, the city skyline morphs into a twinkly panorama. On glorious summer nights, the Bagleys enjoy rooftop sunsets, raising their glasses to neighbors on nearby decks. Houseboat residents learn to live in harmony with the Lake’s rhythms. Kate Kreitzer, who resides on a Westlake houseboat on the “Sleepless” dock, discusses the soundtrack that complements this lifestyle. “If it’s windy,” she says, “you hear the house creaking as it moves and pulls on the dock. Occasionally, you hear a splash that must be a beaver. You know what time it is in the morning because of the seaplanes.” Last fall, Julia Mayer and her boyfriend moved to Portage Bay. “We literally walked into the doorway,” recalls Mayer, “and Lance’s first words were, ‘We’ll take it’.” Though most concur that summer is the season for houseboat living, Kate says, “I love it all year. In winter, we have a woodburning fireplace, which makes it even cozier.” Julia lists perks like “lounging with a nice iced Baileys and coffee on our floating dock with an unobstructed view of the Montlake.” She comments, “The number one thing is the feeling of Zen. It doesn’t matter how stressful the workday was, as soon as I set foot on the dock, the feeling of stress starts dwindling.” Mike and Patti Sherlock have lived on Lake Union for about nine years and have built seventeen houseboats here. Last August, after nearly five years of construction, they relocated to their latest masterpiece, which Kenmore Air flies over daily, the hybrid yacht/house boat named Aurora (under Fremont’s Aurora Bridge). Mike confesses, “It’s like waking up every morning on vacation.” Their 4,700-square-foot,

“green,” drivable vessel features ornate woodwork done in the early 20th-century arts and crafts style, an eight-seat, tiered movie theater, even an elevator. However, like any home, these houses come with challenges. Julia discusses wintertime: “Our house was built in the 1920s as a floating loggers’ cantina, so without much insulation. The winters can get pretty cold.” Other obstacles range from occasional mildew and curious gawkers to unique maintenance issues. “Since we are at the very end of the dock, we are the break in waves. [Sometimes] you are standing in the shower first thing

in the morning, barely awake and not quite ready for the movement.” Kate adds, “You have to remember that it’s floating! It’s held up by logs and barrels, so if you have too many people over, the house can get off-balance, and doors slam shut and odd things like that. A diver has to come rebalance it.” Yet despite any quirks or required adjustments, Kevin summarizes the unique living experience best: “We live under an airport, next to a freeway, and our backyard is forever flooded. And we wouldn’t have it any other way.”

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LOVE THE WATER?

We’re your friend with a boat. The Center for Wooden Boats is a hands-on maritime museum located on Seattle’s Lake Union, a stone’s throw away from Kenmore Air. Rent a boat, learn to sail or just marvel at the forces that make planes fly and sailboats sail.

37th Annual LAKE UNION WOODEN BOAT FESTIVAL FAMILY FUN • FREE BOAT RIDES • FOOD • MUSIC • BOATS • DEMONSTRATIONS • FREE! Lake Union Park, Seattle, July 4 - 7, 2013 // www.cwb.org A short walk through Lake Union Park will take you from Kenmore Air’s Lake Union Terminal to Wooden Boat Paradise. ...And Admission is FREE!

ENJOY A GIFT SHOP DISCOUNT! We have t-shirts, hats, mugs, toy boat kits, cards, books and more! Mention this ad for a special HARBORS Magazine discount!

| The HARBORS www.harborsmagazine.com Center for Wooden Boats | 1010 Valley Street, Seattle, WA 98109 | 206-382-2628 | www.cwb.org

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Birdwatching Afloat By Vincent Hagel

Birding the San Juan Islands

Bonaparte’s Gull The San Juan Islands and Salish Sea are home to the iconic orca, and thousands of visitors come from far and near to get a glimpse of the whales. The close-ups are stunning, regardless of how many you’ve seen, but more especially so if you’re from far away and inland. Eighteen years ago, young Brian Goodremont on one such visit from Ohio, was especially awed—so awed, in fact, that he remained here, working as a guide and a boat pilot for San Juan Safaris until he opened his own business a few years ago, San Juan Outfitters. Brian’s business flourished, and 46

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after a few years, within days of this writing, he finalized the purchase of San Juan Safaris and the Sea Lion, a 55foot, nearly new and very sturdy whale watching boat. Originally an Arabic word, “safari” came to mean an expedition to hunt or observe wildlife, and for me, particularly, observing birdlife. Deep within San Juan Safaris’ extensive website, I found their birding charters outlined in great detail, along with all of their services. Besides high-quality binoculars, blankets and field guides, they also supply an interesting look at birds most often found a little too far from shore

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to be seen well. From the deck of the Sea Lion, however, we were in what was nearly a bird blind. Brian is adept at maneuvering the Sea Lion out of its slip and through a narrow space near the ferry landing and into the harbor. A pair of hooded mergansers paddled away from us, sensing the presence of the boat, but not of people. Mergansers usually flee the presence of humans, but we were somewhat masked by the floating bird blind. Overhead, two vee’s of Canada geese flew over the town of Friday Harbor, and I focused on several nearby pelagic cormorants drying their wings.

One challenge of January birding is the difficulty in identifying some species in their non-breeding plumages. The pelagic cormorant may be the easiest to spot in this plumage because of first, its smaller size, slender neck, and all black appearance. During the next three hours, we would see more than 50 of these beautiful birds skimming the surface, standing on logs, or diving for small fish. We also encountered many of the larger double-crested ormorants, with their distinctive orange throats and lores which distinguish them from the Brandt’s cormorant with its pale throat patch and darker bill. Following several lines of cormorants flying south, away from shore, Brian headed the Sea Lion past Turn Island, then south along the edge between Griffin Bay and San Juan Channel. The light was clear without the glare of the summer sun. To our left, we observed a harbor porpoise, which I mistook for dolphin, but Brian showed me that this porpoise’s dorsal fin had a long leading edge and a shorter following edge. This cetacean, though commonly seen around San Juan Island, is rare to the south into Puget Sound. The beauty of this chartered trip was Brian’s willingness to stop and float with the current, so we could distinguish the Cassin’s auklets from the ancient murrelets, or watch numerous

Peregrine Falcon Common Murres

One challenge of January birding is the difficulty in identifying some species in their non-breeding plumages. female buffleheads diving for small fish, while their male counterparts flew in from elsewhere. The current in the San Juan Channel was running pretty fast, and birds would fly a mile or so to the north, then float with the tide, dipping and eating the fish swimming beneath them. The water was almost flat, punctuated by small swirls of flotsam The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Eagles Bald eagles are most abundant near water, be it salt, fresh, moving or still, where they make their living in a number of ways. They are best known for swooping down and snatching fish right out of the water. These sharp-eyed hunters have favorite perches for different times of the day from which they survey the water for quarry, with the sun at their backs for maximum visibility. Eagles can see four to eight times more detail than a human with perfect vision; they can spot prey from a distance of one to two miles away. Every Kenmore Air float plane destination is not far from an excellent opportunity to observe bald eagles in the wild. â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Bart Rulon, Nature Photographer

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and loons in small groups. Of course, the common loon was, well, common, but we also encountered Pacific loons. By the time we neared Cattle Point at the southern end of the island, we had seen countless gulls: ring-billed gulls, mew gulls with their distinctive voice, Bonaparte and Franklin’s gulls in their winter plumage (a very similar pairing—the Bonaparte has pink legs, while the Franklin’s has black legs), herring gulls, California gulls and a juvenile glaucous gull. Of course, we easily spotted surf scoters with their bright orange beaks and white patches on the males, most accompanied by several females or juveniles; rhinoceros auklets; a number of northern pintails; and every few hundred yards, one or

two red-breasted mergansers, some coming very close to the Sea Lion. The current off Cattle Point pulled a conglomeration of sea birds with the tide as they fished. Among them were common murres and thick-billed murres. While their bills might be a good distinguishing feature of these two species, in winter plumage the common murre has more white along the neck and cheek, with a thin dark line emanating from behind the eye down, across the cheek. The thickbilled murre, on the other hand, has more black on the cheek, and a clean separation of black and white along the entire neck, and, of course, an obviously thicker bill. Along with these birds, half a dozen

harbor seals looped through the water, fishing for larger fish, and much larger still were Steller’s sea lions, chugging through the water like semi-submarine tugboats searching for lunch. They swam between the point and Whale Rocks, where more than twenty of them lay on the rocks like large brown driftwood. Further to the east, on Mummy Rocks, stood half a dozen bald eagles. Brian guided the boat back up the current, and we floated with the birds, watching their hunting, floating, and nagging one another. He considered going further south to Salmon Banks, but most of the action was here at Cattle Point in sight of the lighthouse. Our most intriguing sighting of the

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Rhinoceros Auklets Harlequin Duck

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day came here, just at the end of the safari. Suddenly an unusual bird with brightly contrasting black and white floated just to starboard. It looked like an eider, though I’ve not seen an eider in Puget Sound. We moved and drifted and circled, hoping for a good look at this bird, but it continually paddled away from us preventing a particularly good view. I managed to snap several shots of this wary creature from a distance, and didn’t discover until later in the day, when I could blow up the photos, that it was a long-tailed duck, formerly called the old squaw. I’ve seen many of these, but somehow was distracted by the excitement of the chase for a possible eider. Soon we headed back to Friday Harbor, passing a northwestern crow who watched us from Goose Island. Brian would secure the Sea Lion and spend the evening with his family. I would hunt down the long-tailed duck on my computer and enjoy memories of a day well spent.

Brian began working at San Juan Safaris in 1997 as a sea-kayak guide and naturalist. He ultimately become the operations manager and held that position until he purchased the Roche Harbor portion of the company in 2008. With this purchase he took over all sea-kayak operations, kayak rentals and one whale-watch boat to form San Juan Island Outfitters. Brian holds a 100-ton captain’s license, is an avid runner, cyclist and outdoorsman. He, his wife, two children and dog enjoy their small family farm and the outdoors together. Over the last five years, Brian grew San Juan Island Outfitters which now offers; kayaking tours; 3-hour and 5-hour kayak rentals and overnight camping, plus bicycle and multi-sport tours, paddle board and pedal boat rentals, whale watching and bird watching by boat. San Juan Outfitters employs more than 30 outdoor professionals and support staff.

Brian Goodremont, San Juan Safaris

In January of 2013, Brian purchased San Juan Safaris added an additional two whale-watching boats, 10 staff members and a Friday Harbor waterfront office to his responsibilities. Whether by kayak or boat, Brian looks forward to sharing his passion for the outdoors with his guests through his wonderful staff and tour programs. The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Reflect. Refresh. Recharge. Daily flights to the San Juan Islands. Fast. Convenient. Stress-free.

This is an Island ...You Need a Boat

866.435.9524 KenmoreAir.com Hourly, Daily Rentals 360-378-6202 www.fridayharbormarine.com 52

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San Juan Islands • Olympic Peninsula Victoria, BC • Vancouver Island BC Inside Passage

F ind a gift wo r t h i t s sa lt. www.OLDSALT M E RC H A N TS.c o m

888-995- S ALT The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Northwest Author Spotlight By Joanna Nesbitt

Christine Smith When Jeffrey and Christine Smith first met—as twenty-somethings in the ‘90s—Jeffrey had just moved to Bellingham from the East Coast with a dream of owning an expedition passenger boat for adventure tours, similar to those he’d worked on in Maine. Christine, a recent Western Washington University anthropology graduate, was at loose ends with career choices. She hoped to own a bed and breakfast in the San Juan Islands someday, preferably a Victorian with a garden and cats. As Jeffrey listened to Christine talk about her B&B idea on the night they met, he asked her if it had to have a foundation. Fourteen years later, the Smiths run successful weekend and extended boat tours in the San Juan Islands and Inside Passage on the sturdy David B, a wooden boat they purchased in 1998 and rebuilt as a passenger vessel for six. But restoring the boat and launching their business, Northwest Navigation, was no easy journey, and what they thought would be a two-year project 54

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evolved into an eight-year epic. From the beginning, Christine, who once worked in a photography studio, took photographs to document the uncertain odyssey and later created photo albums that would become a template for telling David B’s story to the Smiths’ passengers. In 2011, at the urging of two loyal passengers, Christine turned the tale into a book, chronicling the journey’s risks and challenges in More Faster Backwards: Rebuilding the David B. Told in flashbacks, the book swings between the David B’s 2006 maiden voyage and the years of hard work leading up to it, equal parts adventure tale and resounding thank you to the friends and family who helped. The first time they saw the David B, neglected and languishing in a cove on Lopez Island, Christine wasn’t sure what she was looking at. Was the hulk a complete mistake or could it be brought back with paint and varnish? Built in 1929, the 65-foot workboat, designed to tow fishing boats to salm-

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on fishing grounds, had seen better days. But Christine knew Jeffrey was excited from the way he asked rapidfire questions about the engine, an original Washington Iron Works engine manufactured in Seattle, one of just 17 left in the world. “It’s a pretty special engine,” Jeffrey explains, “and I think it’s the last running 3-cylindar engine left.” Sold on her potential, the young couple bought the David B, embarking on their “two-year” project. For the first eight months, they traveled from Bellingham to Lopez, borrowing the tools and shop of the David B’s former owner. With the help of family and friends, they replaced the rotten foredeck first so they could remount the windlass (used to pull up the anchor) to sail home to Bellingham. There, they berthed the boat in Bellingham’s Squalicum Harbor, not far from their recently purchased house. But managing their day jobs—Jeffrey as a captain for Victoria San Juan Cruises, Christine as a gardener—and

fitting the David B into their little spare time proved tricky. They never seemed to have enough time or money and the two-year projection turned into three, four, six. They maxed out credit cards, spent family contributions and refinanced their house multiple times. Despite the loans, Christine says money was always the most stressful aspect of the journey. In 2004, another challenge arose: the Port of Bellingham issued a requirement that all moored boats carry insurance and the Smiths knew they were at a turning point.

Should they continue the project? Carrying insurance required a survey that involved more money. They decided to let the survey results dictate whether to continue or quit—even though they’d sunk $50,000 into their dream and untold hours of labor. Luckily, the surveyor was not only hopeful, he gave them a to-do list, and with that list they recommitted to the project, in the end rebuilding from bow to stern. In June 2006, eight years after her rescue, David B embarked on her first sail to Alaska as a passenger vessel. What may charm and capture

audiences most is the love story that underlies that fortitude—two young dreamers and their boat against the elements.

For more information: Rebuilding the David B www.morefasterbackwards.com

About Jeffrey and Christine and their passenger tours www.northwestnavigation.com

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Travel Savvy: Flying Fish Home

By Betsy Crowfoot

Getting Your Bounty Home After a Successful Fishing Trip Chances are good you might be leaving Washington or BC with a salmon the size of your sister Sue. After last year’s El Niño, 2013 promises an action-packed, catch-your-limit kind of season. But buckling a carcass into the seat of a de Havilland Beaver may not be the best option for getting it home. Baggage limitations, flight time, missed connections and fisheries management regulations are just a few of the practical reasons you’ll want to devise a plan for handling your catch. A four-day fishing trip could net you a bounty of 50–100 pounds (23-45k) of filleted salmon, halibut, lingcod and rockfish, according to Dan Brunet of EagleNook Resort and Lucky Sportfishing. Your lodge or guide will no doubt offer to prepare some for dinner (especially if you promise to share). The rest will be cleaned, vacuum packed and frozen; and to comply with Fisheries and Oceans Canada 56

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(DFO) and Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (DFW) regulations, packaged in a way that ensures the species, number, size and weight can be easily determined. Often that means a full side, with tail-on: impressive to bring home to treat your friends and family to a barbecue, but not very practical in large quantities. “From the first day, we start thinking about processing. If you’re flying home in a six-seater, there’s little leeway for excess luggage,” Brunet reminds. Wheeled aircraft allow up to 50 pounds (23k) of checked baggage and 20 pounds (9k) carry-on; but float planes are limited to only 24 pounds (11k) total. Plus, you’ll want usable portions once you get home, instead of large, unwieldy chunks. Most lodges will rush your fish, for no extra charge, to a processing facility like St. Jean’s Cannery in Nanaimo (which also has more

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than one dozen drop-off depots, if you are doing-it-yourself ). “The upside to processing is you get a lot more usable product home,” says St. Jean’s Lance Weber. Most anglers will choose a mix of methods: electing to portion some into simple onepound fillets, which are frozen and overnighted to your door. “Canning is also very popular, because of the longer shelf life,” Weber adds. And Indian candy—a slightly sweet, smoked salmon treatment—is a favorite: “a unique West Coast delicacy that is easy to share and gift.” Because the fisheries are strictly managed, your outfitter or lodges will guide you through compliance, but hang on to your fishing license and documentation until you get home, in case of spot checks at the border or during transit. www.pac.dfo-mpo.gc.ca www.wdfw.wa.gov

Your Journey Begins

with King County International Airport

“13R” photo used by permission of Long Bach Nguyen

Proud Partner of Kenmore Air Express Since 2004 With flights to Port Angeles, Eastsound (Orcas Island), and Friday Harbor

Serving the Aviation Community Since 1928 206 -296 -7380 • www.kingcounty.gov/airport

The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Spring Flyaways Parkside Victoria Spa Victoria, BC

When we checked into the swank, sophisticated Parkside Victoria Resort & Spa in Victoria, BC, we felt a bit ashamed of our grubby attire. We had just come back from cycling for three days up the coast of Vancouver Island and had our bikes and gear with us. The lobby was extraordinarily beautiful, and we almost felt like we would be booted out of the place. Instead, this extremely environmentally-friendly hotel welcomed us like family, and in fact, the staff invited us to attend the reception that the hotel was hosting that night for the Canadian Tour de France contestant, who had just returned home. 58

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They also offered their bicycle storage facility to us, and told us about their complimentary Wi-Fi (had fun checking out their free iPad station off the front desk!), and invited us to enjoy one of the nightly movies in the property’s private movie theater. The Parkside Victoria Resort & Spa has won numerous awards and acclaim for its commitment to environmental design and performance, including the LEED™ Platinum rating and the 5 Green Key Rating, both internationally recognized rating systems. The property gives LEEDs tours to interested guests. The building was designed to have a “nature-inspired

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By Irene Thomas

luxury” feel, and to fit in with the existing neighborhood, with its eclectic mix of Victorian and modern architecture. The use of rock and stone, along with distinctive fountains and water features, gave us the delightful impression of being somewhere in between indoors and outdoors. Stepping off the lobby, we ‘oohed’ over the 25-meter ozonated indoor pool and hot tub. One of Canada’s first hotels to have parking spaces with alternative fuel charging systems for electric vehicles (in the heated underground parking garage), the Parkside’s three-story green rooftop atrium’s gardens help

Nine-passenger wheeled Caravan

Ten-passenger Turbo Otter seaplane

to insulate the building against the winter’s cold and the summer’s heat, while its first-floor outdoor gardens are planted with edible fruits and herbs. After our long bike ride, it was a treat to see the ‘aaahh’ bathroom with its heated floor, deep soaker tubs and oversize shower. It was also a pleasure to have the large kitchen, fully and stylishly equipped with cookware and cooking utensils, a stainless-steel refrigerator and dishwasher, microwave, toaster and coffeemaker (with complimentary coffee). We threw our dirty clothes into the Eurostyle, in-room washer and dryer, fixed some coffee and sank into the cushy leather furniture in front of the fireplace. And finally, off to the bedroom, with its solid maple floor and kingsize pocket-coil bed, fitted with lush Egyptian cotton linens. Each room at the Parkside also has a private covered patio with a table and seating for up to six people. Just a quick stroll from the top tourism area of Victoria’s Inner Harbour and Provincial Legislative buildings, as well as the Victoria Conference Centre, Beacon Hill Park and the Royal BC Museum, the property opened in summer of 2009.

For more information: 810 Humboldt Street Victoria, BC V8V 5B1 (866) 941-4175 The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Snug Harbor, San Juan Island, WA

Snug Harbor is a perfect name for this getaway on the west side of San Juan Island. Located in Mitchell Bay, the marina is well protected from stormy seas, and boaters have moored here for years while they stay at the resort and relax or explore the west side of the island. Over the years, the most favored cabin has been the tree house, nudged above the rest of the resort with trees growing through the deck, though the new Panabode cabins will soon compete for first place among guests. As of February of this year, three new Panabodes adorn the upper level, and by June, three more will be finished. By June of 2014, all of the older cabins will have been replaced. We stayed in a two-bedroom cabin, a nicely furnished and very comfortable space, heated by a wonderful gas fireplace. The couch unfolds as a futon double bed, allowing six people 60

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www.harborsmagazine.com

By Vincent Hagel

to stay in the cabin, which is well equipped for short or extended stays. Also, you can barbeque on the heated deck. Snug Harbor’s excellent website displays extensive photos of the interiors and exteriors of all of their cabins and the quiet surrounding waters, but what they can’t show is the experience. Without even walking out of doors, the birding is surprising and stunning. Just outside the window, nipping up and down a fir was brown creeper, a solitary, difficult-to-find little bird—a surprise. Stunning birds were nearby on the rocks in the bay: an immature golden eagle rested for a while and then flew off, only to be replaced moments later by a black oystercatcher. We didn’t see orcas spyhopping in the bay, but the Snug Harbor website includes a photo of two orcas doing just that not far offshore. To get close to orcas out in Haro Strait, the staff can arrange a whale watching charter.

STARTING OUR 26TH YEAR 315 Argyle St, Friday Harbor 360.378.3060 www.waterworksgallery.com

After whale or bird watching, you might feel like some fresh crab. No problem. Crab pots hang from the dock and during the busier season, manager Ken Christensen keeps a crab pot boiling nearby. You can enjoy fresh crab beside one of three beach fires readily stoked and warm in the cooler hours. Visitors can also obtain their own crab licenses and drop pots elsewhere. If you prefer fishing to crabbing, you can fish from one of the resort’s canoes or charter a fishing boat. Justin, the resort’s go-to guy, is happy to take you out for salmon, or perhaps, if you have children who just want to catch a few “fish,” he can take your party out for flounder and other

easily caught swimmers inside the bay. Guests arrive in a variety of ways. Of course, there are boaters and those who ride the ferries to Friday Harbor from Anacortes or Sydney, but others fly in to the two airports on the island. Others fly Kenmore Air to Roche Harbor or directly to Snug Harbor Marina, where a chartered flight can land you at the dock. If you wish to explore the island, Ken can help you arrange a rental car, delivered from Friday Harbor, or if you just need a ride to a specific place, Justin can take you. Within fifteen minutes, you could be clamming, finding oysters or watching whales from Lime Kiln or San Juan Park. The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Willows Inn Lummi Island, WA

By Vincent Hagel

In June of 1792, after a journey of thousands of leagues, two Spanish schooners lay anchored offshore from a small island that Capitan Galiano named Isle de Pacheco, today called Lummi Island, about half an hour’s drive and a five-minute ferry ride from Bellingham, Washington. If you would rather not drive, a Kenmore Air floatplane will deposit you ashore on the west side of Lummi Island at The Willows Inn, where you can enjoy an out-of-this-world meal. The New York Times, The Wall Street Journal, Food and Wine Magazine and others have recognized the Inn’s restaurant and Chef Blaine Wetzel as among the best in the United States, and perhaps among the best in the world. Such high praise might be expected of Wetzel, who was a chef at Noma in Copenhagen, Pellegrino’s Best Restaurant in the World in 2010. Chef Wetzel embodies the farmto-table philosophy. His menus grow from nearby sources: an organic farm, a shellfishery, an island deer farm and a pond of specially bred ducks. Other resources include wild sockeye netted on Lummi, rare spot prawns and Washington razor clams, served with Bellingham-grown watercress, a snack whose fragrance equals its exquisite taste. Rather than traditional appetizers, “snacks” introduce the meal, one after another, paired with wines. The menu is prix fixe, a perfect format for several reasons, though Blaine’s talent may be the foremost. Your first snack might be baked sunflower roots, smoked and served hot in a small cedar box, bedded in shredded kelp with the texture of perfectly prepared artichoke hearts, paired with Westcott Bay Apple Cider from San Juan Island. Next might be a crispy crepe with a line of salmon roe. One bite collapses the crepe and 62

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Kale Chips with Truffle & Rye Ingredients 2 wide leaves of Luciano kale 1 recipe truffle emulsion 1 slice rye bread

anoints your mouth with a bright, indescribable and unforgettable surprise. Only one bite—more than one might be too much. Many snacks were not just one bite. You can’t eat just one mussel, especially steeped in sauerkraut—smoky and melty. Blaine prepares sauerkraut “the old-fashioned way,” carefully chopped, then pressed under a lid in a wooden bowl for five weeks until krauted. Sour made sweet. In addition, there were Olympic oysters; toasted kale with truffles; baked halibut skin. I could go on. At plate ten, we met the dinner, four courses that included stewed lovage stems with caramelized squid. Roasted pumpkin signaled the end of our excursion into culinary heaven. I’ve barely glazed the surface here. Diners can choose excellent wines or equally delicious juices to be paired with the meal. The generously paired wines might require a designated driver, or, as many people choose, an overnight stay in one of The Willows

Inn’s nineteen quarters. The Taft family, Lummi pioneers, built The Willows Inn in 1910, designed as a boardinghouse and soon after added several cottages to serve their many summer visitors. The Willows Inn recently purchased other properties on sparsely populated Lummi Island, from comfortable cottages to an elegantly styled home on the beach. The staff is sincerely cordial and genuinely cares for your needs. The atmosphere is quiet and intimate. After a three-hour meal, your floatplane could be waiting for you across the lane on the beach, or it may be scheduled to return for you the following morning after your sumptuous breakfast, complimentary with your overnight stay. Plan well in advance for this popular destination. Reserving your meal up to two months in advance is not unusual. Regardless of your transportation, you will have had a meal well worth the travel.

Method • Tear the leaves from the stem and place on a baking tray. Place two rolls of tin foil under and three on top to form a wave shape. Spray lightly with canola oil and bake at 350ºF for five minutes. • Pulse the rye bread in a food processor to a course crumb, toast in whole butter until brown and crispy. Assembly • Dot the crispy kale leave with a small amount of the truffle emulsion and then coat each dot with rye crumbs. Truffle puree: 100g truffles 12g chicken stock glace 24g truffle oil 60g grape seed oil apple cider vinegar to taste Method • Blend the truffles with chicken glace, emulsify the oil into it until it is smooth like mayo. Season to taste with apple cider vinegar and salt.

The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Flying with Kenmore Air

Things you need to know... Baggage Allowances At Kenmore Air we have big hearts but little airplanes! Our baggage limits and penalties for overweight bags are dictated solely by safety of flight concerns, which are more acute on our size aircraft than on the big jets. Seaplane passengers are permitted up to 25 pounds of baggage per person. All items are weighed and count toward the limit, including purses, laptops, backpacks, and so on. Additionally, no single baggage item can exceed 10 x 16 x 24 inches. On Kenmore Air Express wheeled-plane flights, passengers may check baggage totaling up to 50 pounds and may hand-carry one personal item (purse, backpack, etc.) of up to 20 pounds. The checked item may not exceed 62 linear inches, and the personal item may not exceed 36 linear inches. Overweight baggage will be carried on either service if capacity is available for $1 per pound. However, overweight/oversized baggage is always at risk of being bumped unless extra baggage space has been reserved and pre-paid in advance.

Charter Service Kenmore Air offers a lot of scheduled flights to a lot of places, but sometimes, you really need to travel on your schedule, not ours. Or perhaps you need to go somewhere we don’t fly everyday. That’s what charters are for. With our large and diverse fleet of seaplanes and wheeled-aircraft, we’re able to offer customized flying throughout the Pacific Northwest. For a quote, call 866.435.9524 and ask for a charter specialist or send an e-mail to charters@KenmoreAir.com.

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Sea-Tac Shuttles Kenmore Air operates ground shuttles between SeattleTacoma International Airport and its three Seattlearea terminals. These shuttles are complimentary for connections to year-round routes and available at a nominal charge for connections to seasonal routes. Shuttles must be reserved in advance. When booking flights online, select “Seattle-Tacoma International” as your origin or destination, and our system will automatically book the correct combination of shuttle and flight for you. Shuttles pick up from Sea-Tac at Door 00 in the Scheduled Airporter waiting area at the far south end of Baggage Claim. Please be at Door 00 with your claimed baggage at least 10 minutes before the scheduled shuttle departure time. The shuttle driver will always make a departure announcement over the PA system, but passengers are ultimately responsible for getting on the shuttle by departure time. When connecting to another airline from Sea-Tac, be sure to schedule your Kenmore Air flight and shuttle to arrive at Sea-Tac with sufficient time (per your major airline’s recommendation) to check in, check baggage and clear security. A minimum of 90 minutes is generally recommended.

Customs & Immigration With a handful of extremely limited exceptions, everyone flying internationally — regardless of citizenship or age — is required to have a current, valid passport book. Passport cards, NEXUS cards and so-called “enhanced driver licenses” are not valid for travel aboard Kenmore Air. Travelers should also be aware that some criminal offenses that are misdemeanors in the United States are considered felonies in Canada and can result in denial of entry. Driving under the influence of alcohol is a common example. Every traveler is responsible for making sure that they meet the requirements of international travel. Kenmore Air will accept no liability for cost or inconvenience arising from denial of entry into either the United States or Canada.

Check-in Times Kenmore Air passengers enjoy a generally more relaxed traveling experience than the typical airline affords. Nevertheless, we do require check-in for all domestic flights 30 minutes prior to scheduled departure. Due to certain requirements of U.S. Customs & Border Protection, check-in for international flights is required 45 minutes prior to departure. Flights close for boarding 15 minutes prior to scheduled departure, which means that seats for passengers who haven’t checked in at that time may be released to stand-by passengers. Also, the flight may depart anytime after closing, even if it’s prior to scheduled departure. We like arriving early! For flights departing from unstaffed locations, like seaplane docks in the San Juan Islands or British Columbia, passengers should be ready to go at least 15 minutes prior to scheduled departure time to accommodate unforeseeable variations in flight time.

Overnight Connection Specials With our Sea-Tac shuttle service, Kenmore Air and Kenmore Air Express flights offer folks a quick, convenient way to connect with the big airlines flying into or out of Seattle-Tacoma International Airport. With more than 100 domestic and international destinations served from SeaTac, many same-day connections can be made between Kenmore Air’s destinations and the world. But sometimes, your travel plans may require an extra night in the city. That’s why we have partnered with the Radisson Hotel Seattle Airport to offer our passengers preferred rates at this convenient, comfortable property. Immediately adjacent to Sea-Tac’s main entrance, the Radisson offers complimentary on-demand shuttle service for the quick drive between Sea-Tac’s ground transportation level and the hotel. Inside the newly renovated hotel, guests will find all the amenities expected of a top-flight business hotel, along with some unexpected touches to make any stay memorable, including a fitness center, heated indoor pool and a newly remodeled bar & grill.

Ty Edwards, Director of Customer Service 425.482.2243 / TyE@KenmoreAir.com

Share your experience. As a family-owned airline we are dedicated to creating memorable experiences for our customers and committed to providing exceptional customer service. Your take on the experience is vital to our success. Please contact me directly with any feedback regarding your experience. I look forward to hearing from you.

Reservations & Customer Service Reservations can be made online 24 hours a day, seven days a week at KenmoreAir.com, or call us tollfree seven days a week from 6:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Pacific Time at 866.435.9524. For customer-service inquiries of an urgent nature, call our reservations line at 866.435.9524. For less timesensitive concerns, kudos or complaints, please e-mail us at feedback@KenmoreAir.com.

Terminal Locations Seattle Boeing Field 7277 Perimeter Road Seattle, WA 98108 Seattle Lake Union 950 Westlake Avenue N. Seattle, WA 98109 Kenmore Air Lake Washington 6321 NE 175th Street Kenmore, WA 98028 Victoria Inner Harbour 950 Wharf Street Victoria, BC V8W 1T4

Friday Harbor Airport 800 Franklin Drive Friday Harbor, WA 98250 360.378.1067 Eastsound/Orcas Island Airport 847 Schoen Lane Eastsound, WA 98245 360.376.1407 Port Angeles Fairchild Airport 1404 West Airport Road Port Angeles, WA 98363 360.452.6371

To take advantage of Kenmore Air’s negotiated rates with the Radisson Hotel Seattle Airport, call our customer service line at 866.435.9524. Note that this preferred rate is not available to walk-up customers at the hotel or through Radisson’s reservation desk. Some Kenmore Air flights may also be subject to discount when combined with a Radisson stay. Ask if any Overnight Specials are available for your itinerary.

The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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LICENSE TO

DREAM Remember your first road trip? The car you took to the prom? To college? Come celebrate the automobile and its place at the heart of the American experience. America’s Car Museum, the Pacific Northwest’s newest destination.

Reserve your tickets today at LeMayMuseum.org.

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NAMED ONE OF WORLD’S “8 BIG OPENINGS OF 2012” BY USA TODAY • NEW HOME OF KIRKLAND CONCOURS MUSEUM OPENING ExHIBITS INCLUDE: • FERRARI IN AMERICA • CUSTOM COACHWORK • CARS FROM THE NICOLA BULGARI COLLECTION • GUINNESS WORLD-RECORD AUTO COLLECTION OF HAROLD LEMAY

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We must be the change we wish to see in the world. Mahatma Gandhi

Cascadia is a non-profit whose mission is to promote the design, construction and operation of buildings in Oregon, Washington and British Columbia that are environmentally responsible, profitable and healthy places to live, work and learn. www.cascadiagbc.org The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Steal away

to a great Getaway… A secluded fourstar resort on the west coast of Vancouver Island

Salmon & Halibut Fishing at its best with our Lucky Sportfishing Guides. Kayaking, Wildlife adventure, Heli-venturing or just Relaxing. All inclusive relaxed fine dining. Spacious and inviting Water view rooms and log cottages. 2 hours from Seattle via Victoria and Kenmore Air or 1 hour by way of our water Express from Tofino/Ucluelet through the Broken Islands Group Professional and friendly staff • Top rated by www.tripadvisor.com

Info@eaglenook.com • 1-604-357-3361 • 1-800-760-2777 Call for special offers (Code:KAH2013) 68

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w w w . e a g l e n o o k . c o m