HARBORS Summer 2012 by HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

HARBORS Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle.

Deep Sea Diving

Campbell River, BC

iFly

Indoor Sky Diving

Port Ludlow Olympic Peninsula

Summer Kings

Secrets of a Salmon Guru

LeMay Classics American Car Museum

Gulf Islands

National Park Reserve The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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EXPERIENCE

Hands-On HISTORY

The Center for Wooden Boats is a hands-on maritime museum located on Seattle’s Lake Union, a stone’s throw away from Kenmore Air. Rent a boat, learn to sail or just marvel at the forces that make planes fly and sailboats sail.

Both adults and youth can learn to sail in historic wooden sailboats. Non-sailors can rent a rowboat and enjoy a floating picnic in the middle of the city. Do-it-yourselfers can build a wooden boat, cast a bronze oarlock or learn classical navigation.

A short walk through Lake Union Park will take you from Kenmore Air’s Lake Union Terminal to Wooden Boat Paradise. ...And Admission is FREE!

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SUMMER 2012

Features

Campbell River’s Discovery Passage

Gulf Island National Park Reserve

iFly Seattle

The Resort at Port Ludlow

Kenmore Air Destination Maps

Pilot Profile

LeMay American Car Museum

South Lake Union - Seattle

Summer Kings

Northwest Author Spotlight

Travel Savvy

Summer Flyaways

Deep Sea Diving in the Pacific Northwest

Nature at Your Back Door

Indoor Skydiving

Natural Elegance

South Zone / North Zone

Cover Photograph Kenmore Air Seaplane leaving Friday Harbor, WA —A.J. Hunt

Tim Brooks: Renaissance Man

Classic Collector Automobiles

Scoot About on Two Wheels

Secrets of a Salmon Guru

Friday Harbor’s Anna Maria de Freitas

Don’t Get Zapped

Sunshine Coast • San Juan Islands • Victoria

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volume 3 issue 3 HA R B OR S The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine CONTACT P.O. Box 1393 Port Townsend, WA 98368

E: info@harborsmagazine.com W: www.harborsmagazine.com

PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey GRAPHIC DESIGN Anika Colvin EDITOR Bobbie Hasselbring query@harborsmagazine.com CONTRIBUTORS Rebecca Agiewich Jett & Kathryn Britnell Yvette Cardozo Sue Frause Bobbie Hasselbring

Eric Lucas Terry W. Sheely Walt Tomsic Doug WIlson

ADVERTISING SALES ads@harborsmagazine.com WEB DESIGN workin’ man creative PHOTO CREDITS Courtesy of:

Jett & Kathryn Britnell, pgs. 10-15 Boomer Jerrit, pgs. 16,18,21 TourismBC, pg. 17 Eric Lucas, pg. 20 iFly Seattle, pgs. 22-24 A.J. Hunt, pgs. 30-31 Bobbie Hasselbring, pg. 26-29 Port Ludlow Resort, pgs. 30-31

Yvette Cardozo, pgs. 36-38 A.J. Hunt, pgs. 40-44,46, 54 Human Nature Photography, pg. 42 (top) Terry W. Sheely, pgs. 48,50 Doug Wilson, pgs. 52,53, 58-59 Rockwater Secret Cove Resort , pgs. 56-57 Villa Marco Polo, pgs. 60-61

HARBORS magazine is printed by Journal Graphics, Portland, OR.

HARBORS magazine is printed on recycled paper. DISTRIBUTED BY

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SUBSCRIPTIONS AVAILABLE www.harborsmagazine.com © 2012 by All Ports Media Group All rights reserved. Partial or whole reproduction is prohibited. The publisher will not be held responsible for errors in advertising beyond the cost of the space of the ad. No changes may be made or cancellation accepted after the publication deadline date. Opinions expressed in signed articles are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of this magazine or Kenmore Air Harbor, Inc.

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HAR B O R S

Welcome to our summer issue of HARBORS magazine.

Harbor Lights A Note from the Publisher

Summer is definitely the time to get out and explore the waters and shores of Washington and British Columbia. Whether traveling by boat or seaplane, the Pacific Northwest is known for its natural beauty and scenic waterways, and the experience is sure to be breathtaking. This summer issue has some spectacular photography with scenery you won’t see unless you get underwater! Jett and Kathyrn Britnell take us under the waters of Northern B.C. for an exciting deep sea adventure. This story features all the underwater creatures you may think only exist in tropical regions, but they’re also right here in the Pacific Northwest. We also take a journey to the Gulf Islands National Reserve Park, Port Ludlow Resort on the Olympic Peninsula, and meet a fishing “guru.” Don’t miss our three awesome summer “flyaways” to Villa Marco Polo in Victoria, Friday Harbor House on San Juan Island, and the Sunshine Coast’s Rockwater Secret Cove Resort. These are must-see destinations and taking a Kenmore Air seaplane to get there makes for a great summer adventure. Enjoy the magazine, your journey, and your destination.

Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher

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HARBORS Travel Club Card

Participating Businesses & Organizations HARBORS Travel Club Members receive a 10% or greater rewards discount at the following participating businesses. The rewards vary by business and are restricted to regular priced merchandise and services. Contact the individual businesses for restrictions and details or go to: www.harborsmagazine.com/travel-club Victoria/Vancouver Island, BC

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San Juan Islands

Orcas Island: Doe Bay Resort & Retreats Orcas Island Golf Course San Juan Island: Afterglow Spa Roche Harbor Bird Rock Hotel Coho Restaurant Crystal Seas Kayaking Day Tours Earthbox Motel & Spa Friday Harbor House Friday Harbor Marine Harrison House Suites Horseshu Guest Ranch Island Inn 123 West Island Wine Company Joe Friday’s Shirt Company Kings Marine Center Orcas Suites States Inn & Ranch San Juan Classic Day Sailing San Juan Excursions, Whale Watching San Juan Vineyards Trumpeter Inn Bed and Breakfast Tucker House Bed and Breakfast Waterworks Art Gallery

Olympic Peninsula

Bella Italia Restaurant George Washington Inn Gift Shop, Port Angeles Port Ludlow Resort Quileute Oceanside Resort

Northern BC Islands Dent Island Lodge Poet’s Cove Resort & Spa Rendezvous Lodge

Seattle

Center for Wooden Boats DiStefano Winery (Woodinville) ExOfficio Holiday Inn Seattle Jillian’s Billiards Kenmore Air Flightseeing Tours Kenmore Air Gift Shop Lake Washington Terminal MarQueen Hotel Quality Inn & Suites, Seattle Center Trago Cocina ZUM Fitness

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See www.harborsmagazine.com for additional listings and restrictions.

Welcome to Kenmore Air Since its founding more than 66 years ago, one of Kenmore Air’s strengths has always been the willingness and ability of our employees to roll up their sleeves and do the work that needs doing without much regard for rank or position on the org chart. Our reliance on “jacks of all trades” has served us well over the decades, keeping us lean and agile. However, everything requires balance, and, as we enter this busy summer season, we have a new specialist in our ranks. This individual has been charged with bringing a laser focus to one job only: he is our new director of customer service, Ty Edwards. With the sole exception of safety, customer service is our most important job at Kenmore Air. It’s the job of all our “generalist” employees, regardless of title. I believe our employees have always upheld an admirable standard of customer service, whatever their formal job duties might entail. But there is always room for improvement, and last year, we decided that the time had come to bring on board a specialist to “own” our customer-service culture. Ty has embraced this role with energy and integrity. As I write this letter, we are in the midst of our annual training effort to prepare new customer service representatives for their work during the peak summer season on our reservation lines. This has always been a busy time of year. But never has the training of these new agents been so purposeful or thorough as it is this year under Ty’s leadership. I am confident that a standard of service higher than ever will result from our new approach — a continuation of customer service being everybody’s job, seasoned with a little specialization. We look forward to hearing from you about how we’re doing as we welcome you on board this summer!

Todd Banks President

We are always interested in hearing about your customer-service experience with us. Please email your comments to Feedback@KenmoreAir.com

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Chameleon-like and highly intelligent, the Giant Pacific Octopus grows bigger and live longer than any other octopus species and provide a thrilling encounter for scuba divers. The largest specimen on record was 30 feet across and weighed more than 600 pounds. Averages are more like 16 feet and 110 lbs. www.harborsmagazine.com

Campbell River’s Discovery Passage

“Let us take you down, ‘cause you’re going to see strawberry anemones forever.”

By Jett & Kathryn Britnell

Where to go diving next is perhaps one of the most difficult questions scuba divers in British Columbia must ask themselves. In a province with more than 17,000 rugged miles of picturesque coastline to explore, the decision is seldom easy. One fascinating dive destination that for decades has garnered high praise from the local sport diving community is Campbell River’s famed Discovery Passage. It’s an enchanted ocean realm where everything is real and, as the song says, there’s nothing to get hung up about. Lying approximately 100 miles northeast of Vancouver, Discovery Passage is the deep navigable shipping lane separating scenic Quadra Island from the coastal town of Campbell River on the northeastern shore of Vancouver Island. Celebrated as being the “Salmon Fishing Capital of the World” by sport fishers, the sheer abundance of marine life layering Discovery Passage’s current-swept seafloor is an irresistible lure for scuba divers. Named after Captain George Vancouver’s command vessel HMS Discovery in the summer of 1792, the astonishingly fast tidal waters here can churn and boil at velocities averaging seven to 16 knots. “It seldom gets better than this,” I thought, as we were blissfully hovering 15 feet off the bottom of Steep Island’s precipitous undersea ledges.

These beautiful invertebrates are strawberry anemones and they grow in immense colonies. Appearing somewhat like coral, they lack a protective covering, or exoskeleton.

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Wolf eels in Discovery Passage are accustomed to the presence of scuba divers and will willingly accept a sea urchin hand out.

Moving across the seafloor like an armored tank, Puget Sound King Crabs are one of the largest crabs on the Pacific Coast, reaching a body width of up to 24 inches.

Exploring the depths just 10 feet below me, my dive buddy was oblivious to the presence of an inquisitive harbor seal swimming up and down Steep Island’s magnificent invertebrateencrusted wall. Plummeting to a depth of 130 feet, the drop-off is draped with flourishing bouquets of purple feather duster tubeworms adorned with a cornucopia of exotic marine life. Taking me by complete surprise, a large cabezon (a blue-mouthed rockfish) suddenly rocketed skyward and thumped headfirst into my chest. My aggressive assailant scurried away in a seeming huff as I convulsed with laughter. We were swimming too far above the rocky shelf to know for sure, but I suspected this cabezon was dutifully defending its egg mass from a perceived threat. Some time after I’d resumed taking pictures, I looked up and noticed the same cabezon feverishly giving chase to the harbor seal. Over the past 25 years, we have explored the colorful depths of Campbell River’s Discovery Passage countless times. Due to formidable tidal currents that flood toward the south and ebb northward, the diving here typically revolves around two varying slack tide intervals that are approximately six hours apart. Novice divers should encounter no difficulty as most dives are conducted during the brief respite of slack tide intervals, when the current slows and the water becomes still, before reversing in the following direction. Due to the constant upwellings of clear water, underwater visibility in the passage’s rapid flowing seas rarely falls below 30 feet. Plankton blooms only occur in the top 30 to 40 feet during the summer months and quickly become diluted by the strong tidal exchanges. Spiny dogfish, also known a Pacific Dogfish, are by nature social animals that school by the thousands. One of the areas of peak abundance is off the coast of British Columbia.

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Legendary Dive Sites Several of Discovery Passage’s regularly visited dive sites have achieved legendary status in diving circles. Copper Cliff’s delirious 300-foot undersea cliff is punctuated with dense clumps of white plumose anemones, yellow sulfur sponge, sea squirts, and orange cup corals. Everything underwater here appears to be super-sized. Schools of black rockfish, wolf eels, red snapper, mosshead warbonnets, nudibranchs, and the occasional spiny dogfish frequent the cliff’s undersea terrain. Near the surface, tiny baitfish seem to swirl closer to the wall in order to avoid being eaten by passing salmon. Copper Cliff affords an excellent drift dive and routinely presents some of the passage’s trickiest currents. A short distance away, wreck divers can explore the 366-foot-long HMCS Columbia, a decommissioned naval destroyer escort ship that was purposely sunk in 1996 as an artificial reef. Row and Be Damned is undoubtedly one of the coolest names ever for a dive site! A steep rock precipice slopes almost vertically beneath the waterline and gradually gives way to gigantic boulders in 30 to 60 feet of water. These imposing monoliths are candy coated with pink strawberry anemones, bright purple sea stars, elegant flame-tipped nudibranchs, and other encrusting marine invertebrates. Puget Sound king crabs measuring two feet across, gray tennis ball sponges, and profuse concentrations of orange cup corals are scattered everywhere. The sea floor is embroidered with clumps of yellow sponge, swimming scallops, bunches of hydroids, and a verdant terrazzo of pink strawberry anemones. Moving in and out of Row and Be Damned’s jagged crevices are tiger rockfish, friendly kelp Perched upon a cluster of yellow sponge, this Scaleyhead Sculpin figuratively posed for several pictures before darting off.

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Home Sweet Home. Living under a dock was never more glamorous than the stubby beer bottle condo that two saddleback gunnels have chosen for their humble abode. The strikingly colored candy stripe shrimp is usually found at the base of crimson anemones, although this particular shrimp is pictured sitting upon the folds of the anemone’s mouth.

greenlings, and some monster-sized lingcod. It is here where the infamous fish with kaleidoscope eyes, the red Irish lord, pose willingly for underwater photographers. Giant Pacific octopuses are sometimes not easy to spot amid the riot of color that exemplifies Row and Be Damned’s phantasmagoric seascape, but you might get lucky. Descending through swaying fronds of bull kelp at Whiskey Point, we followed our compass bearings to a known wolf eel den. Whiskey Point’s playful wolf eels are simply amazing and the 16

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resident tiger rockfish, and kelp greenlings here are extremely tame, a result of years of hand feeding by divers. Whiskey Point always seems to have the lushest pastel colonies of strawberry anemones, which for reasons still unknown, carpet the sea floor as far as one can see throughout much of Discovery Passage. Commonly bright red in color with transparent white bulbous-tipped tentacles, strawberry anemones look somewhat like coral, but lack the protective exoskeleton, and grow no larger than one inch in diameter. In Discovery Passage, there are also large patches of strawberry anemones in varying hues of orange or pink. At one point, we were busily taking pictures of an orange spotted nudibranch when I felt that sudden sensation that we were being watched. Looking up from my camera’s viewfinder, I was amazed to discover approximately 100 curious-looking copper rockfish watching us. Discovery Passage is one of British Columbia’s premier diving hot spots. Our many diving experiences here have resulted in a lifetime of happy memories and breathtaking encounters with some of the most bizarre and iridescent sea life imaginable. Above all, nowhere else in British Columbia’s vast Emerald Sea are scuba divers guaranteed to see strawberry anemones forever.

NORTHWEST

Jett & Kathryn Britnell are an internationally published husband and wife photojournalism team who pursue their mutual interest in traveling by capturing images and stories about diving destinations and the magnificent creatures that inhabit the ocean realm. www.jettbritnell.com For more diving information: Abyssal Dive Charters and Lodge www.abyssal.com/ (250) 285-2420 or 1-800-499-2297 Email: info@abyssal.com

Jett & Kathryn Britnell cooling off while on assignment near Alaska’s LeConte Glacier

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Gulf Island National Park Reserve By Eric Lucas

Nature at Your Back Door I’m on a beautiful island in a turquoise sea, talking to a genial fellow of Hawaiian ancestry. We’re on the porch of an old white clapboard house that might have been raised by a New England missionary. Sunlight warms the afternoon; high clouds thread a blueberry sky. “My brother says that back in the 18

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old days, you could ride from one end of the island to the other,” recalls Richard, our host on Russell Island, which is part of British Columbia’s southern Gulf Island archipelago. Indeed, there is still an old bike leaning up against a nearby cherry tree. “But the firs and cedars have grown up too much for that now.” Firs? A clear bike path from one end of the island to the other? Russell Island is a long way from Hawaii—more than 2,700 miles. But on a clear late summer afternoon, sun high in the northwestern sky, a warm breeze shuffling wavelets up to the

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island’s western shore, it doesn’t seem all that far. In fact, if you’re looking for a place where Hawaiians can be found, you need only take a pleasant 100-yard stroll through the woods to Maria Mahoi’s 1902 homestead. The tidy house, tucked into trees midisland, has a classic saltbox shape, a small porch overlooking the orchard with a clean salt breeze sifting through the windows, and a unique and colorful niche in Northwest history. Snorkelling in Ganges Harbour. It’s impossible to resist snorkelling in the topaz waters of Gulf Islands.

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Vistas embracing islands big and small present themselves almost everywhere in Gulf Islands National Park Reserve.

Here during the 19th century, settlers from Hawaii (then called “Kanakas”) homesteaded the serene 40-acre island. Mahoi inherited the homestead in 1902, raised 13 children here, and thus populated the Vancouver Island region with a now-sprawling clan of Polynesian-Canadians. Richard is her great-grandson, one of the many descendants who spend time in the summer as island hosts, greeting visitors, and explaining their legacy. 20

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“It’s our summer vacation,” he tells us. “Pretty quiet vacation.” The island passed out of the family’s hands and eventually wound up as one of the jewels in Gulf Islands National Park (GINPR), itself one of the jewels in Parks Canada’s world-class, continent-wide collection of parks and preserves. A New Concept in Parks The Park was fashioned in 2003 from

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a complicated quilt of small preserves, undeveloped islands, and donated properties. GINPR is a unique attraction in many ways, reflecting a new approach to park creation in Canada. Rather than preserve a single notable property—as in Yellowstone or Banff, one of the older parks in the Canada’s park system—GINPR is spread across 15 islands and many other islets and skerries (small, rocky, uninhabited islets), totaling 36 square kilometers

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underwater preserve. The idea was to protect a distinct ecosystem, what Parks Canada calls “natural regions.” The government has identified 42 such natural places across the country. GINPR represents the “Strait of Georgia lowlands,” a complex regime of islands, forests, prairies, and marine and tidewater habitats. Parks Canada invested $25 million in GINPR, and folded into the park’s pastiche numerous existing preserves ranging from major provincial parks to smaller regional tracts, from beaches to inland woods. Several sites include human history such as First Nations shell middens and the ruins of a brick factory, not to mention the Russell Island homestead. There are shell beaches, small patches of old-growth forest, tiny coves where beachcombers can watch for seals and sea lions. “Obviously, this is not your traditional national park,” says Superintendent Wayne Bourque, who

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helped assemble it. “It’s quite fragmented, but everyone’s happy that so much of this beautiful landscape is now protected for all time.” Fragmented though it may be, it’s easy to experience the park. Sailing almost any BC Ferries route out of Swartz Bay will take you past many of the park’s properties, which include a number of undeveloped smaller islands in the chain. Mount Norman, the highest point on South Pender Island, is part of the park, and a visit to the top of the 800-foot pinnacle reveals sensational vistas of the islands and Vancouver Island in the distance. It’s a steep, but manageable 30-minute hike up and the reward is as big as the mountain. Even simpler is a visit to Sidney Spit, a deliriously lovely tongue of white sand that lies at the top of Sidney Island, just a 15-minute foot ferry ride

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from Sidney, B.C.. On the spit, you can picnic in a beach setting that equals almost any in Hawaii. No palm trees, though. During the summer months, a commercial ferry operator provides multiple scheduled trips across the water. Much of Saturna Island is in the park, also easily reached on regular BC Ferries service from Swartz Bay. So is part of Mayne Island; it and Pender are served by BC Ferries as well. View from a Kayak But the best way to sample this intriguing park is under your own power, as we’ve done on our visit to Russell. Setting out in kayaks from Salt Spring Island under the guidance of Island Escapades owner Jack Rosen, we paddle across morning waters so calm the glass-like surface clearly shows the line made by a harbor seal’s nose 25

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yards away. We cruise by a small skerry inhabited by nesting oystercatchers. “They return every year, just like tourists,” Rosen jokes. We pull up after an hour on Russell Island’s sandy beach for a picnic and a visit to the homestead. Lounging in the sun after lunch, lying back in warm sand, it’s impossible to resist the call of the topaz water. I plunge in. It doesn’t count unless you submerge completely, so I swim out just deep enough to dunk my head under. I reckon the island’s neoHawaiians must have done the same, a century ago. No, the water’s not warm, but the sun is, the breeze is, the sense of blissful ease is overwhelming, and it’s as perfect as a moment can be. Eric Lucas is the author of Explorer’s Guide Victoria and Vancouver Island, from Countryman Press. He lives in Seattle.

Island hopping kayakers have a 360 degree view of the Gulf Islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spectacular scenery.

West Coast Wilderness Lodge Oceanfront lodge & Eco Spa on Sechelt Inlet Sunshine Coast, BC, Canada

Wildlife sightings in GINPR range from whales to great blue herons.

For more information on Gulf Islands National Park, including ferry travel to Sidney Spit: www.pc.gc.ca. Kenmore Air provides scheduled service to Victoria, Salt Spring Island, and Pender Island gateways to the park: www.kenmoreair.com Travel to and among the many islands on BC Ferries: www.bcferries.com.

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iFly Seattle Indoor Skydiving By Rebecca Agiewich

I’m not one of those who dreams about flying. I’ve been known to panic on elevators and ski lifts. But occasionally I like to show my fear of heights who’s boss. So when the opportunity arose for me to try indoor skydiving at iFLY Seattle, I embraced it with a hearty, “Hmm, maybe.” No Dramamine needed A quick bit of research eased my palpitating heart. For one, there’s no jumping out of a plane. Instead you fly in a vertical wind tunnel, soaring on a column of air. Second, a beginning flyer like me will only go about 12 feet high at most. The experience is so smooth that people generally don’t get motion sickness. And, last but not least, an instructor is with you in the wind tunnel the entire time. I can do this, I thought. Maybe.

the flight chamber create windspeeds as high as 160 miles per hour. If you’re a beginning flyer, the windspeeds used when you take flight will range between 98 to 120 miles an hour, depending on your weight, says Lysa Adams, marketing director of iFLY Seattle. And, according to Adams, there is constant communication between your instructor and the control booth to ensure the wind speed is just right for your skills and size. The iFLY experience iFLY is hard to miss as you approach Seattle’s Southcenter Mall. The tomato-red building is tall, sporty and

sleek, its wind tunnel soaring above the nearby ground-level shops and restaurants. Once you sign in and head upstairs, the fun begins. First you’ll see others taking their turn in the tunnel. If you’ve never seen another person flying before, you won’t be able to peel your eyes away. You’ll be especially riveted by the experts. They’re the ones getting the big air, flying upside down, or doing synchronized moves with other flyers. But even the beginners are fun to watch. Newbies, who always fly individually (flying in groups is an advanced art), each have an instructor with them, who is actively helping

Indoor flying now a sport of its own Sky divers—both military and civilian—have long used vertical wind tunnels to train for the experience of free fall. But indoor skydiving, more commonly known as “indoor flying” or “bodyflight,” has become so popular that it’s now a bona fide sport of its own. It even has its own governing body—the International Bodyflight Association, plus competitions and championships to go along with it. iFLY’s parent company, SkyVenture, runs 23 wind tunnels around the world, such as iFLY Hollywood and iFLY Singapore. The tunnels measure 10 to 16 feet in diameter and up to 50 feet high. Fans mounted at the top of The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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the flyer get into positionâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;both with hand signals and hands-on help. The instructor also watches every move they make, communicates via hand signals with the control booth, and provides constant encouragement in the form of thumbs-ups and pantomimed cheering. (With winds roaring faster than hurricane force, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s too loud to talk in the wind tunnel). Every single beginner that I saw also wore an ear-to-ear grin. Flight time As your flight time nears, your instructor calls you in for a preflight training session with a small group of other flyers. During this 10-minute session you watch an instructional video, learn the hand signals that your instructor will be using in the tunnel, and go over the correct body position for flight. Our instructor Jeff (who doubles as a fireman in real life) soothed my 26

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jangled nerves with his confident and friendly demeanor. By the time I stepped into the flight chamber—in a jumpsuit, goggles, and a helmet—I trusted him enough to know that even if I was a complete flop as a flyer, Jeff would make sure I didn’t crash land. That trust didn’t stop my brain from buzzing with “what-ifs.” But once the rushing wind bore me aloft I forgot everything. Including the hand signals Jeff had just taught me. He patiently kept me in a safe position until my buzzing brain could calm down and process his instructions. Then, with lots of help from Jeff, I flew. Floated. Turned in the air. Smiled at the watching audience. Pushed the wall away from me like a pro. Kept my chin up like he’d taught us. Jeff constantly readjusted my position during that first flight. And when he wasn’t helping me, he was making the thumbs-up sign, pumping his fists in the air, or doing a little happy dance.

Rebecca Agiewich is a Northwest writer living in Seattle.

Kids as young as three can suit up and fly at iFLY Seattle. To find out more about iFLY Seattle, go to www.iflyseattle.com

The exhibition is organized by the American Museum of Natural History, New York (www.amh.org), in collaboration with the Houston Museum of Natural Science; California Academy of Science, San Francisco; The Field Museum, Chicago; and North Carolina Museum of Natural Sciences, Raleigh. © American Museum of Natural History. Image Courtesy of the Royal Tyrrell Museum of Palaeontology.

The floatiness lingers If you’re anything like me, you’ll feel even more floaty after the experience than during it. You’ll relive it many times on the drive home, reminiscing about how scared you were during the first flight, and how much better you did during the second. You’ll post the pictures on Facebook, in which you, like all the other flyers you saw, are wearing a huge grin. And you’ll definitely keep the certificate you get that says, “This is to certify that Rebecca Agiewich reached terminal velocity at iFLY Seattle.”

May 17 – Sep 16, 2012

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The Resort at Port Ludlow: Natural Elegance By Bobbie Hasselbiring

To say that The Resort at Port Ludlow is in an extraordinary setting is an understatement. The Resort is perched on the edge of Ludlow Bay overlooking the snow-covered Olympic Mountains with views that will make you want to while away the hours just watching the sun and clouds play on the water. But you won’t because there’s just too much to do. Washington’s only master planned community offers guests and residents some of the best lodging, boating, dining, meeting, and resort living in the Pacific Northwest. Located just a 90-minute drive from Seattle or an even shorter hop on Kenmore Air, The Resort is located in west-

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ern Puget Sound on the Olympic Peninsula. Guests can choose from 37 guest rooms as well as a bay-view beach house and contemporary condominiums. Visitors can also rent resort homes through the owner-rental program. Tucked into a rural, forested setting, the boutique Inn at Port Ludlow overlooks the bay and The Resort’s 300slip deep-water marina. The Inn’s wide porches, massive chimneys, and multiple rooflines make it look like a luxurious summer home that stepped from the pages of a classic New England romance novel. The guest rooms and suites, most with windows that open onto water

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views, are decorated in soothing, natural colors and Mission-style furnishings and come with gas fireplaces, flat screen TVs, mini-fridges, oversized Jacuzzi tubs, and European-style beds with down duvets and linens that contain bamboo fibers that make them lusciously soft. The bathrooms feature custommade soap, lotion, and bath salts from Bainbridge Island’s Sweetlife Farm as well as über-soft towels and fluffy robes to make your bath or shower feel luxurious. Surprisingly, unlike many high-end hotels, the pet-friendly Inn welcomes both dogs and cats for a nominal fee (and, of course, Fido is welcome on Kenmore Air).

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General Manager Debbie Wardrop and Chef Dan Ratigan take time to visit with guests and residents on the Fireside deck overlooking the marina and the Olympic Mountains.

The bath products, which are available along with other regional products in the Inn’s new lobby retail space, aren’t packaged, which is part of The Resort’s, larger effort to be sustainable and support regional businesses. “We want to do away with all that packaging,” says General Manager Debbie Wardrop. “We use washed pink scallop shells from scallops we serve in the restaurant as scoops for our bath salts and the wooden tops of the bath salt jars are made from local wood from Forest Gems, a company near here.” The Resort offers a certified cleanwater marina and the company serves freshly ground, in-room coffee from Fonte Coffee in Seattle. The Inn’s walls are decorated with photographs and paintings by local artists.

For guests who want a bit more space and privacy, the two-bedroom Pintail Beach House features hardwood floors, a full kitchen, and spacious living area. The contemporary condominiums, which have recently undergone a complete renovation, are fully stocked and come with one to four bedrooms. Guests arriving in motorhomes can stay at The Port Ludlow RV Park. It offers 39 full-service sites in a forested setting with fire pits, picnic tables, and showers and can accommodate RVs up to 40 feet long. Fresh, Local Dining The Inn’s Fireside restaurant offers breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Under the direction of Northwest native and Executive Chef Dan Ratigan, guests

are offered sumptuous dishes simply prepared with the freshest, local ingredients like Virginica oysters from Taylor Shellfish Company, freshly baked breads and pastries from Pane d’ Amore, Theo Chocolate from Seattle, and greens and herbs from nearby Red Dog Farms. The chef works with a half dozen local farmers to custom-grow vegetables and herbs for the restaurant. Several times each summer, and for guests who make arrangements ahead, Chef Dan will create a Salmon Potlatch with salmon barbecued outside the Native American way. Traditionally, the Fireside’s menu has changed every quarter, but Chef Ratigan is now altering some menu items daily to better use what’s fresh and locally available. Food and Wine Director James Rob-

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Port Ludlow Resort features one of the most challenging golf courses in the state of Washington.

inson, a self-described “wine fanatic,” has built an extensive wine list that includes more than 500 labels, of which more than 95 percent are Washington wines (the rest are select European wines). His efforts have earned the restaurant acclaim from Wine Spectator and, recently, an Award of Distinction from the Washington Wine Commission. Plenty to Do So what’s there to do in a master planned community like Port Ludlow? Plenty. Kenmore Air flies right up to the Inn and The Fireside restaurant, so you could simply fly in for dinner or a quick overnight. Or you can take advantage of the Resort’s championship 18-hole golf course with drop-dead water and mountain views and the occasional deer or elk wandering across the fairway. Boaters can explore the waterways of

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Ludlow Bay in their own boat or rent a kayak or skiff. If hiking is more your style, the Resort offers an extensive system of woodland trails and they’ll soon have a mountain bike course too. Just outside the Inn on the lush grass fronting the water, you can play bocce ball or a new Parisian lawn game that Food and Beverage Director James insists “you can drink wine and play at the same time.” When you’ve had your fill of nature (and that’ll likely take some time), you can wander into the Port Ludlow village and explore galleries or enjoy a spa treatment (you can also order an in-room massage at the Inn). Or you can just sit on Burner Point overlooking the bay and watch the herons and eagles play with the passing clouds. www.portludlowresort.com

Port Ludlow has a popular marina full of boating activity year round. They also have a seaplane dock where Kenmore Air can fly passengers in for a night of dining or a weekend getaway.

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Olympia to Nanaimo

South Zone Kenmore Air Destination Map

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Nanaimo to Port Hardy

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Tim Brooks: Renaissance Man By Yvette Cardozo

Next time you climb into one of Kenmore Air’s de Havilland floatplanes, the pilot could be a company vice president. In fact, he might be sitting up there behind the controls right now. Tim Brooks, VP of flight operations, has absolutely no intention of giving up his airborne duties any time soon. “I love the romance of seaplane flying...that you can land just about anywhere and the destinations are so beautiful. Every day is different,” he said, while looking out his office window at the Lake Washington waterfront. His backyard is the Inside Passage, that breathtaking slice of scenery leading up British Columbia’s thickly forested and snowcapped mountainous coast. He says getting to consult in exotic lands that want to start their own floatplane bases isn’t too bad either. As we spoke, he told me he was scheduled to leave in just a few weeks for China. He’s traveled to Thailand, Indonesia, all over Central and South America. And yes, he has stories, lots and lots of stories. Excitement Driven It’s that kind of excitement that Brooks thrives on. It’s one reason he hopped on his bike one June day 12 years ago and pedaled across the United States to Boston from Neah Bay in Washington’s far northwest corner. It’s why he annually does a multi-day kayaking trip off the west coast of Vancouver Island. You could say he did the transcon-

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tinental bike ride “because it’s there.” But no, the reason is more complicated. It has to do with meeting a cross-continent cyclist when he was 12, falling in love with the idea, and then, many years later, training hard and making it happen. It also helps that he now lives in Seattle, a city where you are known not for what you do at work so much as what you do after work. The city is teeming with cyclists, skiers, hikers, kayakers, and scuba divers. You can actually do all five sports within a handful of miles of just about any home in the area. Brooks grew up near San Francisco,

speaks fluent Spanish, got a graduate degree in Latin American studies with a minor in economics, and figured he would wind up in business somewhere in Latin America. But in 1976, his brother married a Seattle local and he met Kenmore Air’s founder and owner Bob Munro. He wound up joining the company and...never left. He started at Kenmore in public affairs, trying to soothe local residents who were up in arms about the idea of noisy airplanes flying over their back yards. Some innovative work later, the noise factor was cut in half and the locals appeased. Meanwhile, Brooks was working his way up through company

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Tim Brooks’s dedication and passion drive him to stay on top of every detail of the seaplanes he flies.

Students work to tie the bent ribs into the umiaq style boat used by natives in arctic regions. Umiaqs are wood framed boats traditionally covered in walrus hide.

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ranks to where he is today, vice president of flight operations. “The responsibility for operating the airline falls to me,” he explained. But why stay 36 years? “The incredible diversity of the things I’ve been allowed to do for the company, the flying, the consulting work all over the world. The destinations are so beautiful and every day is different.” On one day, he says, he might be at the controls of a floatplane heading up the Inside Passage; a few days later, he might be sitting down with senators to work on legislation that will help the company. And then, there is that globetrotting consulting. Five years ago, the Ecuadorian version of the National Park Service wanted to know if it was feasible to use floatplanes to fly eco-tourists to a remote native village normally reached only by days of paddling in dugout canoes. Brooks said yes and later wrote this description of his adventure: “Barefoot community members whose clothing ranged from western style T-shirts and shorts to ceremonial dress, beads, and face paint greeted us at the edge of the riverbank. The setting was akin to paradise. The twisting river was probably less than 40 feet wide as it passed in front of the palm roofed village of five or so buildings on stilts. Young children played and swam in the river. On the edge of the opposite river bank, the forest canopy rose to more than 125 feet with a seemingly impenetrable undergrowth of vines and dense plants. Everywhere I looked, I saw something new, strange, and beautiful.” He saw butterflies with 10 inch wingspans, fireflies that were so bright at night, you could read by them, and bright pink river dolphins. He ate wild

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boar, monkey, armadillo, and fresh fish. Thus far, Ecuador is still working on the floatplane plan, but Brooks says it is supposed to happen eventually. The Bike Guy Brooks, 65, is married with two grown children, a girl who is in software and a son teaching English as a second language in China. In fact, when Brooks went on his consulting job to China, he had a chance to visit his son. And squeezed in between all of this, is his bicycling. The trip across the United States had a deadline. He had to be back in time for Kenmore Air’s busy summer season, but he couldn’t start while there was still the threat of snow in the high mountain passes. The ride involved 26 days, a car swipe that bruised him but didn’t end the ride, and killer headwinds in the Midwest so strong, he nearly gave up. The journey also slowly increased his strength so that, at the end, he was

doing 200- mile days and enjoying them. His best memory? “The last several days as I rode through and into the suburbs of Boston with wonderful weather and knowing I had made it.” Brooks pedaled to the ocean and dipped his wheel into the Atlantic, as he had dipped his wheel into the Pacific nearly a month earlier. And today? His custom brushedmetal Davidson bicycle sits in the corner of Kenmore’s repair hangar, ready at a moment’s notice for a lunch ride down the Burke Gilman Trail, which conveniently runs practically through the company’s parking lot. Folks in Seattle have a habit of staying active, whether it’s at work or out in nature, well into their senior years. You look at Tim Brooks with his boyish face and sandy hair and see a man who appears to be in his early 50s, not mid 60s. He will be around for some time to come. The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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LeMay American Car Museum

By Walt Tomsic

Classics for Collectors

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When it comes to automotive museums, Tacoma’s LeMay – America’s Car Museum is anything but conventional. The strikingly “unconventional” appearance of the museum makes it clear from the outset that visitors are in for a unique experience. As with most automotive museums, the restoration, preservation, and pre-

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sentation of historically significant and beautiful cars, many from the personal collection of Harold and Nancy LeMay, will always be a key part of the museum’s on-going mission. Fascinating exhibits rotate through the many galleries and tell, in dramatic fashion, the compelling story of the automobile as a prime mover in contemporary culture

The museum is open through the summer months from 10 am to 5 pm, seven days a week. For more information visit: www.lemaymuseum.org.

Visitors will find a store with books and gifts and a cafe in which to grab a tasty bite... all pretty standard fare at any world-class car museum. So, where does America’s Car Museum (ACM) begin to deviate from the norm…to take the road less traveled? From its inception, the vision behind ACM was to go beyond the traditional—to “reinvent” the concept of the car museum, to be a dynamic, exciting, and innovative “institution” rather than simply a building housing cars. ACM is purpose-built to be a place to learn, have fun, form friendships, and experience adventures. The new LeMay campus reflects this desire to take things to the next level by featuring clubrooms, banquet facilities, a preservation center, on-site vehicle storage, and an expansive show field—in other words, ACM is designed to be a “gathering place.” Once inside LeMay’s striking glass and metal façade, visitors are treated to a diverse menu of exhibits beginning with selected cars from the storied collection of the Museum’s namesake, Harold E. LeMay. Exploring the many galleries of ACM will bring people face-to-grill with: “The British Invasion”— From the “Fab Four” to “Bond . . . James Bond,” swinging ‘60s London was a time when British fashion, music, and automobiles swept over the American pop scene like a mini-skirted tsunami. To properly celebrate this cultural revolution, “The British Invasion” exhibit features some of England’s most memorable automobiles: Mini, MG, Triumph, Jaguar, Austin-Healy and, of course, 007’s iconic Aston Martin. The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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“Ferrari in America”— The flashing “rosso” of these prancing horses have won races and the hearts of devoted fans all over the world. Visitors will see red and perhaps a few other colors when they visit this exhibit.

“Custom Coach Works”— From a time when custom coach builders took rolling chassis from the likes of Duesenberg, Lincoln, and Packard and transformed them into rolling sculptures, this display features vehicles that reflect the unique personalities and taste of their owners. “Indy 500 Racing”— The need to compete is part of our nature… from shooting marbles to clipping the apex on a racetrack. Racecars, in all their permutations, are test-beds of engineering brilliance and design-to-purpose. This exhibit celebrates the Indy 500, the king of American car races. “Alternative Propulsion”— The search for multiple ways to power a car has been with us from the first days of motoring. You’ll marvel at just how ingenious early alternatively powered cars were and how that spirit of innovation has continued to the present day. “We the People” car at the Indy 500 exhibit.

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Specializing in Lifestyle Fine Art Portraiture of People with their family and their toys... Automobiles, Boats, or Airplanes at their favorite location.

730 Market Street Kirkland, WA 98033 425-822-3868 www.humanaturephoto.com bob@humanaturephoto.com This Chevrolet Bel Air reflects America’s passion for colleting classic cars.

Not content with simply displaying cars, the museum will host a year-round calendar of exhibits, speakers, conferences, and seminars, all of which serve the educational mission of ACM. Museum sponsored trips and tours are geared to get people and their cars out on the road where they belong. The unique outdoor grass display area—the Haub Family Field—will provide a perfect venue for car shows, such as the prestigious Kirkland Concours, club events, community festivals, concerts, and even summer movies under the stars. If ever a place deserved the title “Center of Car Culture,” LeMay – America’s Car Museum is it. The campus of America’s Car Museum benefits from being easily accessible. Situated adjacent to the Tacoma Dome just off I-5, you can get there by taking exit 133 and following the signs.

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SLU:

Neighborhood Happenings

Seattle’s South Lake Union Neighborhood, home of Kenmore Air’s Seaplane Terminal.

South Lake Union on Two Wheels By Rebecca Agiewich

What gets 100 miles per gallon, and will make you feel like Gregory Peck or Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday as you take it on an exhilarating tour of Seattle? That’s right – a scooter! With gas prices through the roof, scooter sales are on the rise these days, according to Susan Richardson, owner of Scoot About Scooters in the bus-

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tling South Lake Union neighborhood of Seattle. Within a few months, a new $2,000 scooter can “pay for itself ” in terms of money saved on gas and parking, she says. Renting a scooter is also a fun way for Seattle visitors to sightsee. And if you happen to fly into Lake Union on Kenmore Air, you’ll be just a few minutes

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away from Scoot About Scooters, which rents and sells scooters year-round. Seattle From Atop a Scooter Seattle is densely packed with dazzling sights from mountains to lakes to Puget Sound, and from Scoot About’s convenient location, you don’t have to ride far to see any of these. Richardson and her

staff are happy to recommend rides and provide free maps to rental customers. Richardson often recommends riding to the Washington Park Arboretum, a spectacular park consisting of botanic gardens, ponds, and wildlife-rich wetlands situated on Lake Washington. “It’s a nice, long scenic ride from here,” says Richardson. “And there’s a Starbucks halfway there.” She also directs riders to the funky Fremont neighborhood to see the Troll (a famous local statue); to dramatic Discovery Park in the Magnolia neighborhood; and to the beloved beach at Golden Gardens, situated near the happening ‘hood of Ballard. “Visitors also like to take their scooters on the ferry to Bainbridge Island,” says Richardson. The popular run from Seattle to Bainbridge packs a heady dose of scenery into its 35-minute run, including the Seattle skyline, the Olympics, and even the occasional Orca (aka “killer whale”). Once on the island, two-wheeled visitors will find quiet

coves, waterfront parks, and peaceful rural roads (good for those who might be nervous about riding on Seattle’s busier city streets). If you don’t have time for a ferry ride, Lake Union beckons from only a few hundred yards away. From Scoot About, you can make a seven-mile loop around Lake Union that takes you by treasured Seattle landmarks such as Gasworks Park and Ivar’s Salmon House, with its large deck that’s perfect for watching all the summertime activity on the lake. And, best of all, you can do these rides for just a few bucks worth of gas. It’s a Kid’s Fantasy Richardson herself has been riding motorcycles since she was in high school, and scooters since the mid-90s. “Somehow I talked my grandparents into buying me a motorcycle when I was in high school,” she says. “I don’t know how I convinced them. Maybe it’s because it was cheaper than a car.” She opened Scoot About Scooters in

2005 so the general public could see “how much fun you can have on two wheels.” (Since most of us, alas, don’t have grandparents as cool as hers). Says Richardson, “It’s the kind of thing you always wanted to do as a kid, but your parents would never let you.”

If you want to Scoot About: Scoot About Scooters 535 Westlake Ave. N Seattle, WA 98109 206-407-3362 www.scootabout.biz Scoot About Scooters will be moving September 30th. Check their website for updates on their new location.

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Summer Kings: Secrets of a Salmon Guru By Terry W. Sheely

Salmon guru John Keizer, Salt Patrol fish visionary and pro angler, is a summer king salmon specialist who doesn’t believe in secrets. When you pick his brain, bring a notepad and spare pens. He’s got a lot to say. Keizer is a master troller who can mooch when he has to and catches kings when all the resident railing-leaners and dock-talkers are complaining that there are no kings to catch. He’s been boating “ghost kings,” chinook that everybody says aren’t there, for decades, for so long and so well that success is implied when his 26-foot North River Seahawk hits the water. He first fished as a diehard fanatic in a small boat with wet clothes and big fish dreams as a 14-year-old deckhand on Westport ocean boats, and later as a

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wholly-consumed charter boat skipper. This lead to co-founding Salmon University and his current berth as instructor, seminar lecturer, pro-fisherman, and teacher of techniques. He’s still that grinning, all-consumed fanatic. Learn something today you didn’t know yesterday and you never quit getting better. Maybe John said that, maybe not; what I know is that he fishes it. He lives in University Place, a burg of Tacoma, and fishes wherever the fish are—Puget Sound, Juan de Fuca Strait, Inside Pass, Sunshine Coast, San Juans, Hood Canal...wherever. “Trolling off of a downrigger is, in my opinion, the best method for consistently hooking chinook.” It’s Keizer’s go-to technique for good reason. “Being

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able to cover lots of water at a controlled depth is extremely effective,” he points out. It’s effective at locating small, shifty pods of large kings, effective at putting the lure smack on the fish, effective at controlling the variables. Finding fish, he believes, is the pin that holds the rest together. Trolling covers all of the righteous king haunts. He

He’s still that grinning, all-consumed fanatic. sniffs out fish with his state-of-the-art electronics that are anchored with two HDS-10 Lowrance Sonar/GPS, which is about as close as we can get to strapping a diver under the boat with a camera and two-way.

The HDS-10 is an E-Snoop that scans the marine bottom like a grammarian hunting for dangling participles, draws pictures of the bottom’s structure like a cartographer, reflects bait balls, and converts salmon into flaming bursts of colors that belong to another planet. Beyond finding summer salmon, the ESnoop HDS-10 measures wave height, nails down boat speed, forecasts tide changes, calls out water temperatures and thermoclines, locates current seams, and probably fixes lunch. Do you really need an E-Snoop? “Best you can buy,” John says, “or you’re wasting time. Most of us don’t have a lot of fishing time to waste. Kings aren’t as plentiful as they used to be so we need an edge.” Picking through Keizer’s summer king gear, I find Shimano Tekota 500LC reels and G. Loomis 10½-foot SAR1265C rods. Reels are spooled with 25-pound test mono mainline. “If you want to fish light, a cut plug herring is hard to beat,”

he says. “ But only if there’s not a ravaging gang of herring-slurping, leadershredding dogfish sharks around.” When downrigger trolling, Keizer prefers to bait with whole herring pinning the baitfish’s mouth shut with the top hook to streamline water flow and reduce resistance. Open-mouthed baits create resistance that shreds bait. Best bet, Keizer says, is to cover the head of a whole herring with a protective plastic bonnet and secure it with a toothpick. Bonneted baits survive trolling speeds and wiggle when they should. Run the bait 15 to 20 feet behind the downrigger weight. Tether a flasher to the weight if you want. When it’s artificial time, Keizer hauls out the tackle box, and starts prospecting with a Pro-Troll Pro Chip 11-inch flasher in green glow colors. “I couple these with Silver Horde spoons, and my favorites are The Coho Killer, Kingfisher and Sonic Edge. I can’t tell you over the years how many fish these spoons have produced for me.”

The green glow spatter back and white glow squids, along with Ace High Fly are also local standards. The Big Rules Big rule: Always troll with incoming and ebbing tides—never against them. Salmon face into current. You want them to see that razzle-dazzle lure coming head-on, easy pickings, succulent snack. Never do you want your tidbit sneaking up from behind and goosing past a salmon’s blind side. Another Keizer rule: go deep, stay deep. Kings love the bottom in 100 to 200 feet of water. Prospect with the lure 20 feet off bottom and, when you locate fish, pound that depth exclusively wherever it may be. And that could be at the surface. In the half-glow before dawn, if there’s a tide change and surface water is ruffled, kings frequently feed in the top 50 feet of water—but when day breaks they dive for the shadows. Count on it. While trolling has his heart, Keizer

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(Top) A super productive sliding herring hookup. (Bottom) Standard flasher-spoon trolling combos.

Keizer pre-ties several spools of 12- to 14-pound test leaders cut to about 8 feet and knotted to Mustad No. 9263 thin wire barbless 5/0-4/0 hooks. He runs the smaller bottom hook through the abdomen of the herring, out the lateral line, and lets it swing free just behind the tail. The larger top hook is inserted into the body cavity and the point poked out of the top at the spine. “If you did it right it will spin like a drill bit,” Keizer says. To increase sensitivity, John foregoes the traditional crescent sinker in favor of a round lead ball snap swiveled to a plastic slider. The mainline passes directly through the slider and a large barrel swivel or preferably a bead chain swivel and plastic bead bumper connects the mainline to the leader. The bead/swivel also acts as a stopper to prevent the slider from crashing down on the hooks. Moochers appreciate that the freesliding weight doesn’t dampen the slight tingle of a light bite, and, just as importantly, during a hot fish fight the slider will slide up the line and remain in the water. On a wild jump, tied-in sinkers sometimes catapult out of the water and yank barbless hooks free.

admits that mooching can put you on the brag board. For drift mooching with plug cut herring (fishing with a light weight to pull a hooked herring down to the depth you believe the fish are at), the guru recommends a lightweight, fast action rod like a G Loomis HSR1021C with a Shimano Tekota 300LC loaded 30 pound braid.

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“This setup has great balance and sensitivity. You can feel the slightest pickup on a bait,” he explains. Herring intended for blackmouth needs to be cut at a 45-degree angle behind the gills with the blade angled slightly toward the tail, beveling the cut. It’s critical that the size of the bait match the dominant size in the water.

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Anything else? Yeah, “I tie all my leaders on fluorocarbon leaders. Fluorocarbon is nearly invisible in the water compared to normal monofilament leader. I have seen it out fish regular (mono) leader four to one. “Take time to regularly clean tackle in soap and water to remove old scents and keep tackle from acquiring a rotten smell,” he says. And about the skyrocketing popularity of artificial scents? Use ‘em, he says. They cover up foul smells and add attraction. Use ‘em! King fishing is tough and we need every edge, every time. www.saltpatrol.com

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Northwest Author Spotlight: Anna Maria de Freitas By Doug WIlson A love of cooking and world travel, and her Italian and Portuguese heritage make petite and vivacious innkeeper and cookbook author, Anna Maria de Freitas, one of Friday Harbor, Washington’s most prized residents. This bundle of energy is co-owner, with husband David Pass, of Tucker House, Harrison House Suites, and Coho Restaurant on San Juan Island. The eight-year island residents originally came from Baltimore, Maryland. They were seeking a change of life from the east coast. They brought with them an embracing love of locally produced foods and a dream of owning a 54

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bed and breakfast. This civic-minded Friday Harbor City Councilwoman became even more famous when she wrote the cookbook, La Cucina Anna Maria, Good Life Recipes from San Juan Island. It is a collection of recipes from around the world and many of those dishes find their way onto the bed and breakfast inn’s menu or onto the Coho restaurant’s desert menu where Chef Bill Minnick specializes in Mediterranean style foods using local Pacific Northwest seafood, meats, and produce. So how did a busy innkeeper become a local celebrity cookbook author?

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A Passion for Great Food “There was a group of 10 life-long women friends who traveled together to destinations every other year,” she says. “When we visited San Juan Island someone asked, ‘Anna Maria, why don’t you write a cookbook?’” Inn and bed and breakfast guests echoed the same question and this book about food and life was born with Anna Maria’s special touch. Anna Maria’s guests relish breakfast dishes like bacon wrapped polenta topped by a fresh free-range chicken egg. The recipe uses locally-produced bacon, corn meal for polenta from a miller in Bellingham, Washington,

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and fresh eggs from free-range chickens from local farms. Dishes, which change daily, can be found on Anna Maria’s menu board in her sunlit dining area. The menu changes with the season and availability from local and regional producers. Gracious sharing is typical for this former public radio broadcaster whose 20 year career led her to travel around the globe, and her book is part of that. La Cucina Anna Maria is much more than a collection of recipes; it is a celebration of life with much practical cooking knowledge shared by the author. You’ll learn about using duck and chicken eggs, and the adjustments required for differences in sizes in the eggs. For the gluten intolerant, she offers special recipes for cookies and breads. Anna Maria is particularly passionate about using local ingredients. She beams with joy as she talks about locally produced eggs, fish, meats, and vegetables from the San Juan Islands and eastern Washington. In season, crisp aspara-

gus and sweet corn are delivered once a week. She’s enthusiastic about made-from-scratch “Everything” bagels using her own sourdough starter. She forms the dough and lets it rest and ferment overnight. Then she places the bagels into boiling water before the final touch, baking in the oven. These delicious, chewy bagels make it hard to wait until breakfast time! Clearly her love of food, life, and people is shown in the thoughtfully-designed, three-ring binder cookbook she keeps that enables her to expand and update her cookbook with even more delightful recipes and cooking information. Originally published in 2006, La Cucina Anna Maria contained 150 pages. Her third edition contains 268 pages and 245 recipes. As more editions follow, Ann Maria’s comprehensive database will allow for even more delicious additions.

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Sample recipes can be found at: www.sustainabletable.org Anna Maria’s book is available at www.harborsmagazine.com to purchase click on Books.

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Travel Savvy

Don’t Get Zapped

By Bobbie Hasselbring

Whether traveling for business or pleasure, we often pack more electronics than clothing. There are cameras, phones, e-readers, DVD players, iPods, Bluetooth earpieces, noise-cancelling headphones, computers, tablets, and more. Business travelers may carry digital recorders, portable projectors, and other business-related gear. Here’s how to pack it, lug it, and make sure it all works:

Pack It

Divide and Conquer. Multiple charging cords can leave you in a tangle. Buy small gear sacks at outdoor retailers like REI. Or use zip-lock-style freezer bags. Bundle cords with a rubber band 56

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and place into separate bags. Label it. To keep your chargers and other look-alike gear straight, label them. I use a Brother label maker and attach labels to cords and each device. Pad it. Consider how much padding you’ll need to keep your electronics separate and protected. Use bubble wrap or foam available at hardware or sewing shops.

Schlep It

Day pack it. Day packs aren’t pretty, but they’re practical and great for protecting and keeping camera and electronics organized and all in one place. They’re also easy to carry and put less strain on your back and shoulders than other types of luggage.

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I use an L.L. Bean Ridge Runner Day Pack ($69) with multiple pockets and wide, padded, adjustable shoulder straps and a waist belt for easy carrying.

Use It

Batteries, batteries, batteries. Carry extra batteries for every electronic device, even your camera. Before your trip, check which batteries you need and, if your camera or other item takes proprietary batteries, order extras. Long-lasting lithium batteries initially cost more, but they last much longer than standard alkaline batteries. Camera charger(s). I carry two cameras and two separate chargers. I always carry a fully charged battery for each in my camera bag and recharge

Your Journey Begins

with King County International Airport

“13R” photo used by permission of Long Bach Nguyen

Proud Partner of Kenmore Air Express Since 2004 With flights to Port Angeles, Eastsound (Orcas Island), and Friday Harbor

Serving the Aviation Community Since 1928 206 -296 -7380 • www.kingcounty.gov/airport in the evening so I always have a full battery. Portable battery charger for iPhone. There are several on the market and you shouldn’t travel without one. Both Mophie and Beam Box Power Pack give an extra five to seven hours of use. Charge it up, snap it onto your iPhone, and when “10% power remaining” pops up, flick the switch, and it recharges your phone. Extra photo cards and flash drives. Camera SD and compact flash cards fail. Also, if you shoot high-resolution images like RAW, cards fill quickly. Carry extras with eight or even 16 or more GBs. Same with flash drives to back up your photos and documents. Carry your extra media in a small case or a zip lock bag. Watch this column for more tips to make your travel experience on Kenmore Air as enjoyable as possible.

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Summer Flyaways Rockwater Secret Cove Resort Sunshine Coast, BC

“Glamping.” The term coined to describe our current accommodation is far less elegant than the lodging itself. There’s a lovely king-size bed buried in fine linens, warm duvets rest between a large soaking tub, a flickering gas fireplace, and big windows letting in morning light from the oceanscape beyond. Shoji screens discreetly hide the closet and lavatory areas. Clear fir trim outlines the tub surround and the doors that lead to a private deck with cushioned chaise lounges overlooking the water. As it happens, we’re in a tent. Glamping in tent-cabins. In other words glamorous camping. A stay at British Columbia’s Rockwater Secret Cove

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Resort is to camping what chateaubriand is to sloppy joes. Begun in Africa to provide upscale housing for safari guests, tent-cabin lodging is a perfect fit for B.C.’s memorable landscapes, for travelers who like to be close to the nature they’ve come to see—but not huddled with it on the ground. Rockwater is the perfect fit for glamping. Converted about a decade ago from an old-line marina/family resort, Rockwater Secret Cove Resort is on the Sunshine Coast north of Vancouver, a littleknown, but divine locale where the sun does indeed shine more than elsewhere. Snowcapped mountains loom in the distance, and the sapphire waters of the

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By Eric Lucas

Strait of Georgia underline the viewscape nearby. Rockwater’s “secret cove” is hemmed by a rocky headland to the south. Knobby-barked Douglas firs stand cheek-by-jowl with the amber trunks of madrona (arbutus) trees that lean out toward the light, and this is where the resort has perched a baker’s dozen tent cabins (“tenthouses,” Rockwater calls them) amid the trees above the water. A boardwalk leads to the tenthouses, which are sited to afford as much privacy and water view as possible. Sturdy canvas walls form the tents, which are mounted on wooden platforms. The resort has a lovely pool, its namesake cove’s beach, a horseshoe pit, fine

Nine passenger wheeled Caravan

Ten passenger Turbo Otter seaplane

dining room, and kayaking facilities (plus a selection of renovated old-fashioned summer cabins), but the tenthouses provide the sort of accommodation where one is vastly inclined to just stay put. And what might a person do all day in a luxury tent? Have coffee on the deck as you watch harbor seals in the cove. Track the passage of the sun across the high Northwest sky by watching dappled light waltz through the woods. Revisit Dostoyevsky with a soundtrack of songbirds, gulls, and eagles to spice the scene. Play Scrabble. Draw up life lists. Perhaps even plunge in the bracing saltwater from your own waterside rock. The resortâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s name is Rockwater, after all, and the timeless appeal of those elements is only enhanced by the modern novelty of deluxe tent accommodations. www.rockwatersecretcoveresort.com.

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Friday Harbor House, San Juan Island, Washington

San Juan Island’s Friday Harbor House stands atop a bluff overlooking Friday Harbor’s Marina and San Juan Channel with Orcas Island in the distance. As Washington State Ferries arrive and depart along with other boating traffic from dawn well into night, the view is spectacular. A short walk from downtown Friday Harbor with its shops, restaurants, and other amenities, this 23-room inn with its accompanying Bluff Restaurant, Bar, and Terrace is an ideal choice for visitors to San Juan Island. If you arrive early in the day, it is possible to drop your luggage at Friday Harbor House, then explore the downtown. You can stop for a light breakfast at places like the Market Chef next to the Serendipity

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used bookstore on A Street. If this is your first visit to the island, stop at the Chamber of Commerce office on Spring Street. Here you can pick up a map of the town and get directions from the staff. Plan dinner at Friday Harbor House where Chef-Innkeeper Kyle Nicholson and his staff turn out seasonally available local seafood, meats, and produce. Chef Kyle came to Friday Harbor House a year and one-half ago with a passionate love of fresh local produce, seafood, wild mushrooms, berries, kelp, and seaweed. The wild ingredients come from his foraging efforts before he starts the day in the restaurant’s efficient kitchen. His menus change daily, adapting to the seasonally available produce from

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By Doug Wilson

nearby Waldron Island, farm fresh eggs locally grown, locally harvested shellfish, lingcod, salmon, and halibut. Most of these fish come from local Lummi tribal commercial fishermen. Meats come from local sources as well. Offering a five-course dinner with accompanying wines, Chef Kyle’s special touch includes his foraged ingredients, which bring a special treat to meals. One example is his halibut entrée, which is covered with sea foam then topped with crisp Nori and ringed by a fresh nettle sauce that’s intriguing and very pleasant. All five Chef Choice offerings are paired with wines that match perfectly with each dish. After dining, retire to your contemporary villa with its gas fireplace, mini-

Orcas Suites

at ROSARIO

Enjoy a view of Cascade Bay from the balcony of your guestroom as you relax and soak in the easy pace of Orcas Island. Rosario’s seaplane dock and Marina are a short distance away. Ideal for family adventures or a romantic getaway.

360-376-6262 www.OrcasSuites.com

fridge, and high-speed internet. A soak in your two-person jetted tub before bedtime will lull you to sleep. You’ll wake to a self-served breakfast featuring homemade granola, frittatas, bagels, breads, and San Juan Roaster coffee. All of this is enhanced by the spectacular view from the dining area overlooking the harbor. That’s beautifully delicious. www.fridayharborhouse.com

This is an Island ...You Need a Boat

Hourly, Daily Rentals 360-378-6202 www.fridayharbormarine.com The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Villa Marco Polo Inn, Victoria, BC

If you’re looking for a quiet, yet exotic retreat in Victoria on Vancouver Island, Villa Marco Polo Inn makes for a terrific getaway. Located in the tony Rockland neighborhood of British Columbia’s capital city, it’s within walking distance of Craigdarroch Castle and Victoria Art Gallery—along with a variety of restaurants, cafes, and unique shops. And it’s just minutes from Victoria’s bustling Inner Harbour. The 1923 home was built as a wedding gift for a young bride. Today, the Italian Renaissance mansion is a romantic destination for celebrations that include proposals, weddings, honeymoons, and even babymoons. It also works as a solo getaway, with the Penthouse Spa Hammam on the top floor making it even more inviting. Spa offerings include facials, body wraps, massages, manicures, and pedicures. Before or after your treatment, enjoy the indoor fireplace with a

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cup of Silk Road tea or, if it’s warm outside, settle into a chair on the covered outdoor balcony with views out to the Strait of Juan de Fuca and the Olympic Mountains. The names of Villa Marco Polo’s four suites evoke exotic, faraway places: Alexandria, Persia, Silk Road, and Zanzibar. They all feature double soaker tubs, separate tiled showers, fireplaces, fine linens, bathrobes, luxurious king beds, hardwood floors, and Persian carpets. Other amenities include fresh flowers, chocolates, and complimentary WiFi. The inn’s large public spaces include a library with a collection with books on Marco Polo and his Silk Road adventures, guides to Victoria, and a selection of magazines. There are also games and a TV with a variety of classic DVDs. The living room features a wood-burning fireplace, chess table, and a window seat overlooking the garden. The Tus-

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By Sue Frause

can Room has a gas fireplace along with access to the outdoor stone terrace and patio. Breakfasts at Villa Marco Polo Inn may be enjoyed either in the formal dining room or smaller sunroom, and include locally grown produce. The menu includes smoothies, juice, fresh fruit, house-baked muffins, and bread. Entrées range from baked eggs Florentine to eggs Benedict with avocados and smoked salmon, followed by a sweet course such as ginger pear pancakes or hot lemon souffle. Gluten-free, vegetarian, or vegan meals are available upon request. Guests are invited to enjoy afternoon tea or a glass of Italian wine in the cozy library with its wood-burning fireplace, or, weather permitting, outdoors in the Italianate garden with its reflection pool, fountain, and statuary. It’s British Columbia hospitality—with a dash of Umbria and Tuscany.

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Flying with Kenmore Air

Things you need to know... Baggage Allowances

At Kenmore Air we have big hearts but little airplanes! Our baggage limits and penalties for overweight bags are dictated solely by safety of flight concerns, which are more acute on our size aircraft than on the big jets. Seaplane passengers are permitted up to 24 pounds of baggage per person. All items are weighed and count toward the limit, including purses, laptops, backpacks, and so on. Additionally, no single baggage item can exceed 10 x 16 x 24 inches. On Kenmore Air Express wheeled-plane flights, passengers may check baggage totaling up to 50 pounds and may hand-carry one personal item (purse, backpack, etc.) of up to 20 pounds. The checked item may not exceed 62 linear inches, and the personal item may not exceed 36 linear inches. Overweight baggage will be carried on either service if capacity is available for $1 per pound, and oversized baggage will be accommodated, if possible, for a $10 per piece penalty. However, overweight/oversized baggage is always at risk of being bumped unless extra baggage space has been reserved and pre-paid in advance.

Sea-Tac Shuttles

Kenmore Air operates ground shuttles between SeattleTacoma International Airport and its three Seattlearea terminals. These shuttles are complimentary for connections to year-round routes and available at a nominal charge for connections to seasonal routes. Shuttles must be reserved in advance. When booking flights online, select “Seattle-Tacoma International” as your origin or destination, and our system will automatically book the correct combination of shuttle and flight for you. Shuttles pick up from Sea-Tac at Door 00 in the Scheduled Airporter waiting area at the far south end of Baggage Claim. Please be at Door 00 with your claimed baggage at least 10 minutes before the scheduled shuttle departure time. The shuttle driver will always make a departure announcement over the PA system, but passengers are ultimately responsible for getting on the shuttle by departure time. When connecting to another airline from Sea-Tac, be sure to schedule your Kenmore Air flight and shuttle to arrive at Sea-Tac with sufficient time (per your major airline’s recommendation) to check in, check baggage and clear security. A minimum of 90 minutes is generally recommended.

Customs & Immigration

Charter Service

Kenmore Air offers a lot of scheduled flights to a lot of places, but sometimes, you really need to travel on your schedule, not ours. Or perhaps you need to go somewhere we don’t fly everyday. That’s what charters are for. With our large and diverse fleet of seaplanes and wheeled-aircraft, we’re able to offer customized flying throughout the Pacific Northwest. For a quote, call 866.435.9524 and ask for a charter specialist or send an e-mail to charters@KenmoreAir.com.

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With a handful of extremely limited exceptions, everyone flying internationally — regardless of citizenship or age — is required to have a current, valid passport book. Passport cards, NEXUS cards and so-called “enhanced driver licenses” are not valid for travel aboard Kenmore Air. Travelers should also be aware that some criminal offenses that are misdemeanors in the United States are considered felonies in Canada and can result in denial of entry. Driving under the influence of alcohol is a common example. Every traveler is responsible for making sure that they meet the requirements of international travel. Kenmore Air will accept no liability for cost or inconvenience arising from denial of entry into either the United States or Canada.

Check-in Times

Kenmore Air passengers enjoy a generally more relaxed traveling experience than the typical airline affords. Nevertheless, we do require check-in for all domestic flights 30 minutes prior to scheduled departure. Due to certain requirements of U.S. Customs & Border Protection, check-in for international flights is required 45 minutes prior to departure. Flights close for boarding 15 minutes prior to scheduled departure, which means that seats for passengers who haven’t checked in at that time may be released to stand-by passengers. Also, the flight may depart anytime after closing, even if it’s prior to scheduled departure. We like arriving early! For flights departing from unstaffed locations, like seaplane docks in the San Juan Islands or British Columbia, passengers should be ready to go at least 15 minutes prior to scheduled departure time to accommodate unforeseeable variations in flight time.

Reservations & Customer Service Reservations can be made online 24 hours a day, seven days a week at KenmoreAir.com, or call us tollfree seven days a week from 7:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Pacific Time at 866.435.9524. For customer-service inquiries of an urgent nature, call our reservations line at 866.435.9524. For less timesensitive concerns, kudos or complaints, please e-mail us at feedback@KenmoreAir.com.

Alaska Airlines Partnership

Since April 2010, Kenmore Air has been a proud partner in the award-winning Alaska Airlines Mileage Plan. Passengers who are participants in the Alaska plan earn 250 miles each way on qualifying Kenmore Air flights, and miles can also be redeemed for free flights on either airline. For details on the Alaska Airlines Mileage Plan, visit AlaskaAir.com/MileagePlan. In addition to the Mileage Plan partnership, Kenmore Air and Alaska Airlines (as well as Alaska’s regional affiliate, Horizon Air) have an interline ticketing agreement. This means that you can purchase singleticket itineraries between Kenmore Air destinations and more than 90 Alaska Airlines and Horizon Air cities across North America, including Hawaii. Besides the simplicity and convenience of making a single phone call or online booking, such joint itineraries also offer much more coordinated and accommodating customer service in the event of weather delays, misrouted baggage or other issues.

Terminal Locations Seattle Boeing Field 7277 Perimeter Road Seattle, WA 98108 Seattle Lake Union 950 Westlake Avenue N. Seattle, WA 98109 Kenmore Lake Washington 6321 NE 175th Street Kenmore, WA 98028 Port Angeles/Fairchild Airport 1404 West Airport Road Port Angeles, WA 98363 Local tel.: 360.452.6371

Friday Harbor Airport 800 Franklin Drive Friday Harbor, WA 98250 Local tel.: 360.378.1067 Eastsound/Orcas Island Airport 847 Schoen Lane Eastsound, WA 98245 Local tel.: 360.376.1407 Victoria Inner Harbour 1234 Wharf Street Victoria, BC V8W 3H9 Local tel.: 250.384.2411

Interline bookings can be made only through Alaska Airlines. If your travel plans include an Alaska Airlines or Horizon Air city, we strongly encourage you to book an interline ticket by visiting AlaskaAir.com or calling 800.ALASKAAIR.

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