Harbors Winter 2013 by HARBORS The Seaplane and Boating Destination Magazine

HARBORS Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle.

Biking the Islands British Columbia

Neah Bay

Olympic Peninsula

Winter Fishing Blackmouth Salmon

Salt Spring Island

A Culinary Adventure

Lopez Island Vineyards

SCAMP

A New Genre of Sailboat

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EXPERIENCE HANDS-ON HISTORY. The Center for Wooden Boats is a hands-on maritime museum located on Seattle’s Lake Union, a stone’s throw away from Kenmore Air. Rent a boat, learn to sail, or just marvel at the forces that make planes fly and sailboats sail.

Learn to sail in historic wooden sailboats, rent a rowboat and enjoy a floating picnic, cast a bronze oarlock, learn celestial navigation, go for a free boat ride on Sunday afternoon or just stroll the docks and admire the wood and the water before your Kenmore Air flight.

The Center for Wooden Boats provides a gathering place where maritime history comes alive through direct experience and our small craft heritage is enjoyed, preserved, and passed along to future generations.  

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Attend our 37th Annual Auction & Dinner Celebration! March 23rd, 2013 | Seattle Design Center Catered by Herban Feast

RE S E RV E YOU R S EATS TO DAY ! Call 206-382-2628 or visit www.cwb.org. 4

| HARBORS The Center for Wooden Boats | 1010 Valley Street, Seattle, WA 98109 | www.cwb.org www.harborsmagazine.com

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WINTER 2013

Features

Blackmouth Salmon

Salt Spring Island

SCAMP

Destination Neah Bay

Kenmore Air Destination Maps

South Lake Union - Seattle

Winemaking from the Heart

Biking Around the Islands

Northwest Author Spotlight

Travel Savvy

Winter Flyaways

Warm Up the Winter With This Most Unusual Salmon

A Culinary Island Adventure

A New Genre of Sailboat

Discover Washington’s North Olympic Peninsula

South Zone / North Zone

Cover Photograph Friday Harbor,WA —Alan Bauer www.alanbauer.com

Museum of History and Industry

Lopez Island Vineyards and Winery

Vancouver Island and Gulf Islands, BC

Michele Dunkerly: Houses Made of Wood and Light

Say “Taboo” to the Flu

Olympic Peninsula • Victoria • Woodinville

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volume 4 issue 1 HA R B OR S The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine CONTACT P.O. Box 1393 Port Townsend, WA 98368

E: info@harborsmagazine.com W: www.harborsmagazine.com

PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey GRAPHIC DESIGN Anika Colvin EDITING Editor: Susan Colby Copy Editing: Vincent Hagel, Craig O’Neill query@harborsmagazine.com CONTRIBUTORS Rebecca Agiewich Susan Colby Betsy Crowfoot Sue Frause Josh Mahar James McCoy

Barb Rees Susan Rybar Terry W. Sheely Irene Middleman Thomas Thei Zervaki

ADVERTISING SALES ads@harborsmagazine.com WEB DESIGN workin’ man creative PHOTO CREDITS Courtesy of:

Terry W. Sheely, pgs. 12-19 Ron Zimmerman, The Herbfarm, pgs. 18-21 Debra Colvin, pgs. 24-29 Barb Rees, pgs. 30-34 MOHAI, pgs. 40-41

Lopez Island Vineyard, pgs. 42-45 Island Joy Rides, pgs. 48-52 Gail Sjuberg, pg. 54 Hidden Haven, pgs. 58-59 Magnolia Hotel, pgs. 60-61 Willows Lodge, pgs. 62-63

HARBORS magazine is printed by Journal Graphics, Portland, OR.

HARBORS magazine is printed on recycled paper. DISTRIBUTED BY

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All rights reserved. Partial or whole reproduction is prohibited. The publisher will not be held responsible for errors in advertising beyond the cost of the space of the ad. No changes may be made or cancellation accepted after the publication deadline date. Opinions expressed in signed articles are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of this magazine or Kenmore Air Harbor, Inc.

HAR B O R S

Welcome to our winter issue of HARBORS magazine.

Harbor Lights A Note from the Publisher

Happy New Year… A new year…a new start… We are looking forward to bringing you another four issues of HARBORS magazine in 2013 and a great year of adventure exploring Washington and British Columbia. We are still in the “shoulder season” – and there are still great deals out there to take advantage of for winter getaways. This issue brings you some attractive destinations to explore and some entertaining articles, from fishing for Blackmouth to a new genre of boat building and some great destinations for a cozy winter getaway starting with an exciting flight on Kenmore Air. Don’t miss our feature on Lopez Island Vineyards and Winery in the San Juan Islands. Kenmore Air flies to Lopez Island regularly all year. We also take you on a great biking journey along the coast of Vancouver Island, another great destination to plan for in the spring. Our Victoria winter flyaway, the Magnolia Hotel is a great destination to share with your favorite “Valentine” in February. And for those of you looking to travel in the opposite direction, fly Kenmore down to Seattle and visit the Willows Lodge, just minutes from the Kenmore Air’s Lake Washington terminal. If you really want to get away, hop on a flight from Boeing Field to Port Angeles and stay at A Hidden Haven B&B on the Olympic Peninsula. Whatever you do, have a relaxing and happy 2013! Enjoy the magazine, your journey and your destination.

Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher

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HARBORS Travel Club Card

Participating Businesses & Organizations HARBORS Travel Club Members receive a 10% or greater rewards discount at the following participating businesses. The rewards vary by business and are restricted to regular priced merchandise and services. Contact the individual businesses for restrictions and details or go to: www.harborsmagazine.com/travel-club Victoria/Vancouver Island, BC

Abigail’s Hotel Bear Mountain Westin Bear Mountain Golf Resort Brentwood Bay Lodge Delta Victoria Ocean Pointe Resort and Spa Hotel Grand Pacific Fairholme Manor Parkside Victoria Resort & Spa Prestige Oceanfront Resort Prime Steakhouse & Lounge Royal BC Museum Sauce Restaurant & Lounge Sooke Harbour House Victoria Regent Waterfront Hotel Waters Edge Resort at Pacific Rim

San Juan Islands

Orcas Island: Doe Bay Resort & Retreats Orcas Island Golf Course San Juan Island: Afterglow Spa Roche Harbor Bird Rock Hotel Coho Restaurant Crystal Seas Kayaking Day Tours Earthbox Motel & Spa Friday Harbor House Friday Harbor Marine Harrison House Suites Horseshu Guest Ranch Island Inn 123 West Island Wine Company Joe Friday’s Shirt Company Kings Marine Center Orcas Suites States Inn & Ranch San Juan Classic Day Sailing San Juan Excursions, Whale Watching San Juan Vineyards Susie’s Mopeds Trumpeter Inn Bed and Breakfast Tucker House Bed and Breakfast Waterworks Art Gallery

Olympic Peninsula

Bella Italia Restaurant George Washington Inn Gift Shop, Port Angeles Port Ludlow Resort Quileute Oceanside Resort

Northern BC Islands Dent Island Lodge EhaArt, Pender Island Poet’s Cove Resort & Spa Rendezvous Lodge

Seattle

Center for Wooden Boats DiStefano Winery (Woodinville) ExOfficio Holiday Inn Seattle Jillian’s Billiards Kenmore Air Seattle Scenic Flights Kenmore Air Gift Shop Lake Washington Terminal MarQueen Hotel Quality Inn & Suites, Seattle Center Trago Cocina ZUM Fitness

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See www.harborsmagazine.com for additional listings and restrictions.

Welcome to Kenmore Air Back in 1946, when my grandfather started Kenmore Air with a couple of high-school buddies and a single airplane, he worked personally with every customer, and that’s how the company operated for many years. We’ve grown a bit since then, and although I’m fortunate to still be on a first-name basis with many of our customers, I certainly don’t get the chance to know them all anymore. But we have never wanted to outgrow the commitment to personal service that my grandpa founded this company on. That’s why we expect all our employees to take a genuine interest in you when flying with us and to go the extra mile to give you a truly memorable flying experience. We measure the success of these efforts by the feedback we get from you, our passengers. Of course, we get a lot of off-the-cuff comments from you as you interact with our agents and pilots. And we still get a surprising number of actual letters from customers wishing to share their feedback the old-fashioned way. But increasingly, we look – as everyone else does – online to see how we’re doing. Here’s a recent review from TripAdvisor.com by Richard, a first-time passenger from the southeastern United States: The way air travel ought to be: “Took the floatplane from Seattle to Victoria Inner Harbor. Then took the twin aircraft flight out of Port Angeles to Seattle. The aircraft were clean and the pilots and ticket attendants pleasant and professional. Service was on-time to the minute. The flights were beautiful. Loved the landing in Victoria harbor two blocks from our hotel – and how much safer could travel be than a floatplane over water? This was travel the way flying was depicted in the 1960s. Tomorrow we fly a major carrier across the country – I dread the upcoming bad experience even more knowing how good flying could be. Use these guys!” This review shows that, for Richard at least, we got it just right. This is the standard we’re shooting for every time. Let us know how we do for you, and as always, thanks for flying with us!

Todd Banks President

Several ways for sharing your feedback with us and with the general public are listed on the opposite page.

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Blackmouth Sanity

Warm Up the Winter With This Most Unusual Salmon

By Terry W. Sheely

Sanity It’s highly desirable, I’m told, but tough to maintain when the gray grunge, forever nights, and winter blues gang up, which is reason enough for stir-crazed fishers to go looking for cold water and hot blackmouth. Sanity feeds on flat-water mornings when the Olympics and Cascades are bright with new snow, two feet of wild, purple-backed, black-mouthed salmon is turning cartwheels across the salt, and a fish stick is bouncing, bending and feeling small. Before the net swings, every symptom of Seasonal Affective Disorder will vaporize. It’s the blackmouth cure. More than a fish or even a cure, blackmouth are western Washington’s 12

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ubiquitous winter salmon, a most unusual non-migrating chinook that resides year-round in Puget Sound, the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the waters of the San Juan and Gulf Islands, Hood Canal, Admiralty Inlet, Discovery Bay – just about any place where there is saltwater to hide in and sand lances and herring to eat. They are immature, resident chinook nicknamed for the color of their ebony gum lines and predatory mouths. They sometimes grow to 20 pounds, although most are in the five-to 10- pound range, are aggressive feeders, fight like tethered banshees, and eat like sweet red butter. They are never far. Seattle and Victoria office workers watch and envy the fish fights on their wet doorsteps, Port

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Angeles and Port Townsend swingshifters fish at daylight, Everett and Bremerton charter operators make a living off them, and every decent port will celebrate a winter blackmouth derby of some sort. Money, boats and prestige change hands and sanity lost is restored. Some seasons it seems like blackmouth carpet the sound and strait and some years are scratched, but every year there’s a possibility between November and April of catching lightning in a bottle. Minus the crowds that plague summer salmon hot spots, winter blackmouthing is mostly a solitary affair – you, a buddy or two, a decent boat. It’s a partnership in salmon sanity – unless you prefer company.

Blackmouth are named for their ebony lips and gums. (Right) Sekiu harbor is ground zero for late winter sanity.

If company is part of your cure, there are winter derbies aplenty, from Sekiu to Seattle, or from the San Juan Islands to Duwamish Head, heavily promoted and endowed with cash, prizes, boats, outboards, tackle and prestige. The first and oldest salmon derby in Puget Sound is a blackmouth cure in Seattleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Elliot Bay called the Tengu Derby. It starts and ends with blackmouth, caught the traditional way on unadorned herring, mooched between Alki Point and Fourmile Rock. Ten bucks gets you in â&#x20AC;&#x201C; no artificials, no flashers, no hoochies, no downriggers. The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Be ready for the 69th annual that starts in October 2013 and competitors fish every weekend through December 30. In case you’re wondering, and everybody does, Tengu is a character in a Japanese fable whose nose, like Pinocchio’s, grew longer with each stretch of the truth. I have no idea what that has to do with anglers. Winter derbies play a major role in the heavily sponsored Northwest Salmon Derby Series, covering the winter water from Everett in November to Anacortes in April, with side trips to Roche Harbor around the February weekend that Punxsutawney Phil pokes his head into the Pennsylvania daylight and two weeks later at the Olympic Peninsula/Discovery Bay derby. The big fish in the 2012 Olympic sanity chaser was a whopping 17+ pounds. Derby junkies can find what they need at the derby website. For the rest of us, we can find what we need in a lot of other places, but there are exceptions. Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife (WDFW) fish managers have confirmed that the once robust, brag-it-up, write-home about-it blackmouthing in south Puget Sound is pretty much a thing of the past. Herring and candlefish (sandlance), both critical blackmouth staples, are in short supply south of the Narrows Bridge, and the best blackmouthing has shifted north and west. The San Juan Islands are known for slabs – big blackmouth. Find lots of fish in the Port Townsend/Midchannel Bank area when spawning candlefish swarm in. Also Tacoma’s Point Defiance on an ebb tide or the south end of Vashon Island on a flood are still good sanity options early in the season.

Plug-cut herring is the top bait for winter salmon like the one cradled by Gene Alexander. (Bottom) A sampling of plastic squids trolled for winter salmon.

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Case Harris warms up with a good salmon well netted.

But the famed blackmouthing on Elliott Bay, like the city that looks down on it, is struggling with hard times. Further north, expect good blackmouthing in the Everett, Edmonds and Possession Point areas. On the far side of the sound, pay special attention to Keystone, Jefferson Head, Point Monroe, Point No Point and Marrowstone Island. Other traditional cold salmon hot spots include the mouth of the Duwamish River on the south side of Elliott Bay and Duwamish Head. The 120-foot bottom breaks between Magnolia Bluff and West Point and Meadow Points are good for winter blackmouthing. Shilshole Bay is mooched and trolled and can produce through late winter.

Cold-water blackmouth are a gorgeous blend of purples, blacks and chrome.

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Possibly the most popular blackmouthing spot in the Central Sound is Jefferson Head at Port Madison in Kitsap County, with convenient public launches at Kingston and Suquamish. Fish the ebb and mooch herring close to the point. You can also drop down to Bainbridge and Blake islands, Manchester and Port Orchard when spawning herring are jammed into Rich Pass. Allen Bank is a productive reef between Blake and Vashon Islands that can be infested with spawning herring and feeding blackmouth. Out toward the Strait, highways turn rural, populations shrink, people loosen-up and fishing pressure falls off. The Olympic Peninsula is a great place to find the cure. Blackmouthing can be outstanding on the strait around Sequim, the hook at Port Angeles, at Pillar Point and Sekiu. When and where to go is partially regulated by WDFW winter salmon season openings and closings and partly regulated by movement of baitfish. Find the bait, find the blackmouth. It’s more than an old saw, it’s instruction. Derby scheduling also provides direct lines to good fish times – most are arranged to hit near the peak of the local season, and if you get wind of a salmon derby, you can bet it’s a great time to be fishing that water. Two caveats are attached to the cure – in order to be kept, blackmouth must be at least 22 inches and missing an adipose (the flabby fin in front of the tail) fin. And barbless hooks are mandatory. As long as there are hot blackmouth in our winters, there is no reason to capitulate to gray grunge. www.northwestsalmonderbyseries.com Blackmouthing is a lovely time to be on lonely water. Add a herring for sweetener. This is what winter sanity looks like close up and wild-eyed, and a helmeted baitfish rigged for trolling with a flasher. Go deep--100 feet is usually the magic zone.

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Open Daily • Downtown Waterfront — Pier 59 206.386.4300 seattleaquarium.org

Crab cake and fresh winter blackmouth is a recipe certain to take the grunge out of Northwest winter.

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Salt Spring Island A Delicious Place for Renewal While many businesses and corporations throw company picnics for their employees each summer, The Herbfarm Restaurant in Woodinville does it bigger, better and tastier. For the past five years, Herbfarm owners Carrie Van Dyck and Ron Zimmerman have taken selected staff on an annual food and wine sojourn. Their venues has included British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, Walla Walla, Washington’s Cascade Loop, Oregon’s Umpqua Valley and, most recently, Salt Spring Island in British Columbia. I was invited as the “embedded” journalist… not a bad tagalong assignment. For two nights and three days, our group of nine sampled, sipped and supped our way through farms, wineries, and cheese-making operations that 18

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A Culinary Island Adventure By Sue Frause

let me know this part of the world is deliciously special. Quick Flight to Tasty Fun The culinary adventure began on Lake Washington, where we boarded a Kenmore Air de Havilland Otter to Salt Spring Island. A little more than two hours later, we were in the village of Ganges, greeted by friendly islanders and threatening rain clouds. As we prepared for our first stop in our 15-course adventure, Carrie cried out, “More foodie fun! Let the feasting begin.” Farmer Michael Ableman has run Foxglove Farm with his wife Jeanne Marie Herman since 2006. Prior to that, he had created and operated Fairview Gardens for 25 years in Goleta,

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California. Today, as the third owner (along with a family in California) of one of the island’s early homesteads, he feels a deep commitment to the land. “Our tenure on these places is very temporary,” said Ableman. “There are many layers of dreams from those who have come before us, and I have to consider what I leave behind.” The 120-acre spread on the road to Mount Maxwell includes 35 acres that are in intensive production, while the rest of the land is in hay, grain and pasture. There is also a small flock of laying hens on the farm. Surrounding the farm are trust lands of forest and agricultural fields, forever protected from development and bordered by Maxwell Lake. With Salt Spring’s Northern Medi-

2. 5.

The People 1. David Wood Salt Spring Island Cheese 285 Reynolds Road Salt Spring Island, BC V8K 1Y2 (250) 653-2300 www.saltspringcheese.com

4. Michael Ableman Foxglove Farm 1200 Mount Maxwell Road Salt Spring Island, BC V8K 2H7 (250) 931-5336 www.foxglovefarmbc.ca

2. Heather Campbell Salt Spring Bread Company 251 Forest Ridge Road Salt Spring Island, BC V8K 1W4 (250) 653-4809 www.phillipvanhorndesign.com

5. Carrie Van Dyck and Ron Zimmerman The Herbfarm Restaurant 14590 NE 145th Street Woodinville, WA 98072 (425) 485-5300 www.theherbfarm.com

3. Marcel Mercier Garry Oaks Winery 1880 Fulford-Ganges Road Salt Spring Island, BC V8K 2A5 (250) 653-4687 www.garryoakswine.com

Kenmore Air Lake Washington 6321 NE 175th Street Kenmore, WA 98028 (866) 435-9524 www.kenmoreair.com

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terranean climate, the farm’s crops not only include Mediterranean vegetables, but also strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, asparagus, melons, greens, and roots. Orchard trees produce peaches, plums, apples, pears, quince, persimmons, figs, chestnuts and cherries. A movable hoop system houses 10,000–12,000 strawberry plants, and a couple dozen varieties of winter squash. It’s a colorful sight. On Tuesdays and Saturdays, the fruits, vegetables and eggs are sold at the Salt Spring Island Farmers Markets, yet they are also available at local stores and selected restaurants. “I farm for the visual beauty and esthetics as much as the eating,” said the fit farmer. Ableman, an author and lecturer, is the proud papa as he walks us through his garden. He points out the Sun Gold tomatoes (“like crack cocaine”), green asparagus, and the gigantic Ailsa Craig onions (“one is enough for the neighborhood”). He whacks open a melon for us to sample, and we pop bright red strawberries into our mouths. Foxglove Farm has overnight accommodations that include a restored log home, a farm-style cottage and a sleeping cabin. Also on site is the Centre for Arts, Ecology & Agriculture founded by Ableman’s wife, Jeanne. The center’s programs include one-tofive-day retreats and workshops, along with a summer “farm camp” for children, culinary classes and an annual open house. Located about 12 miles southeast of Foxglove Farm, high on a sunny ridge near Ruckle Provincial Park, is Salt Spring Island Bread Company. That’s where Heather Campbell, aka “The Bread Lady,” has been baking bread since 1996. She bakes her handmade, organic, artisan goods in a wood-fire brick oven, fueled by slabs from the sawmill. The bakery produces 700–800 loaves per week, as well as a quantity of focaccia. Locally, the bread is available at the Salt Spring Island Saturday Market, Admiral’s Specialty Foods and 20

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Natureworks Natural Foods. Salt Spring Island Bread Company is also open Wednesday–Friday from April to December during the Salt Spring Island Studio Tour. David Wood, owner of Salt Spring Island Cheese, believes that good food and good community go together, especially on Salt Spring Island. “People don’t move here to get a job; they move here to get a life.” He moved to the island in 1990 and purchased the cheese operation from folks who originally bought the farm from a cheese maker on nearby Gabriola Island. He began selling his wares in 1996. Specializing in handmade goat and sheep cheese, the company is known for its chevres, but also makes other goat cheeses, including surface ripened feta, and a hard cheese. At their onsite Farm Shop, all the cheeses are available to taste and purchase, and visitors are also welcome to watch the cheese making process on a self-guided tour. If you can’t make it out to the farm, the cheeses are available at the Saturday Market. Garry Oaks Winery is named for

the five Garry Oaks on the property. The winery, located on a terraced 10 acres on the south-facing slopes overlooking Burgoyne Valley, includes seven acres in vines and an orchard of apple, pear, plum and cherry trees. Owners Marcel Mercier and Elaine Kozak (he grows the grapes; she makes the wine) left the corporate world in 1999 to purchase their century-old island farm. Where sheep once grazed, grapes now thrive. They include Pinot Gris, Blanc de Noir, Pinot Noir, varietals from the “Classics” series and two, Prism and Zeta, from the “Originals” series. The winery also has a seven – circuit or Cretan labyrinth that’s located between the orchard and a pond – visitors are welcome to walk through it. Maybe while sipping a glass of wine. But our time on Salt Spring Island was soon coming to a close. Our journey had us heading west, sailing on BC Ferries from Vesuvius Bay to Crofton on Vancouver Island. The Herbfarm sojourn was back on the road, seeking out the best of BC’s food and wine.

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Debra Colvin Photography

SCAMP: A New Genre of Sailboat By James McCoy

The sailor is doing everything wrong. The video shows him not only standing at the helm in winds gusting above 20 knots, but he’s also got the sail sheeted in tight and is intentionally leaning out over the 12-footer’s lee rail. It’s soon clear he’s actually trying to capsize the little boat. Maybe more shocking than watching someone attempt to intentionally capsize on the icy waters of Puget Sound, is seeing just how difficult it is to knock the little boat down. The tiny pug-nosed vessel heels and rounds up, but defiantly refuses to tip over. After several more attempts, the sailor at last manages to overpower the little boat and put her on her side. Immediately he swims around to the bottom of the boat, reaches up and grabs the now-horizontal centerboard, and 20 seconds after being knocked down, she’s back upright. Seconds later, her 24

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captain has climbed back aboard and sailed her away. It turns out the crazy sailor is none other than Howard Rice – legendary small-boat adventurer who, in 1989 rounded the dreaded Cape Horn – at the southernmost tip of South America – in both directions in a 15foot sailing canoe. He’s come to Port Townsend, Washington, to safety-test this new boat and record the results on video. Origins The concept for this remarkably stout cruising dinghy was born in the Pacific Northwest – or more specifically in the reeds and bullrushes of the mighty Columbia River. The editors of the Port Townsend-based sailing and small-boat magazine Small Craft Advisor were on a 150-mile journey down the Columbia when they discovered

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that even their 16-foot sailboat was too big to properly explore the shallow tributaries and sloughs along the Big River. What they sought was a vessel small and shallow enough to be easily sailed or rowed into the reedy backwaters, but safe and seaworthy enough to cope with the challenging conditions encountered mid-channel most summer afternoons. The boat also needed to be big enough for one or two crew to sleep aboard, have adequate stowage and it needed to have a flat bottom with skegs so it could sit upright if her captain missed or decided to layover on the mud through the changing tide. The editors took their unique concept to noted Kiwi yacht designer, John Welsford, who brought the boat to life with a set of builder’s plans. The design was christened Small Craft Advisor Magazine Project, or SCAMP.

Sailboat developed on Puget Sound gaining worldwide popularity.

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Design The 11 foot, 11 inch SCAMP fits generally into a niche class of sailboats referred to as “cruising dinghies” or “microcruisers,” the smallest boats suitable for overnighting and camp-cruising. But she has a number of unusual features; so many in fact, that she’s been called a “new genre of sailboat.” The first thing people notice is the flat or pram bow, which was an intentional design feature that makes the bow more buoyant and therefore broach resistant. SCAMP also has a water-ballast tank, which is essentially a waterproof box in the center bottom of the boat that holds 175 pounds of seawater. This makes her much more stable than similar-size boats, and the weight can be left behind when it’s time to put her back on her trailer. Instead of a deep keel or a conventional centerboard, SCAMP is equipped with an offset board located in the starboard cockpit seat. As a result, the cockpit footwell is completely open and free from obstructions like a typical centerboard trunk. This makes her a comfortable daysailer with as many as four aboard, and it allows the cockpit sole (floor) to be used as a bunk for the overnighting solo cruiser. SCAMP was designed with multiple watertight lockers, including a huge forward stowage cabin, which make the boat effectively unsinkable and, in concert with the water ballast, helps explain why SCAMP was easy for Howard Rice to right and sail away without having to bail. Maybe most surprising is how well the little boat performs under sail; she’s fast and incredibly maneuverable, very nearly able to turn a 360 in her own length. The 8 foot, 3 inch long cockpit with various stowage lockers and the (open) water ballast tank. Note that skipper or crew can sit under the small open cuddy area forward to duck out of the weather.

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Small boat adventurer Howard Rice (left) and designer, John John Welsford Small-boat and designer, help complete bulkhead.a plank during SCAMP Camp. Welsford (right)aattaching

An overhead look at the rugged little SCAMP still under construction. She is built with six watertight chambers.

Instructors and participants hard at work at the two-week-long SCAMP Camp, organized by the Northwest School of Wooden | HARBORS The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine Boatbuilding.

SCAMP Fever Few new boat designs, if they make it off the drawing board, ever become a reality. The better ones catch the eye of amateur builders and eventually a few are launched. In the case of SCAMP, a prototype was built immediately at Port Townsend’s Northwest Maritime Center, and within the first year, nearly 100 sets of plans or CNC (computer numerical control)- cut plywood kits were sold. More recently, the Northwest School of Wooden Boatbuilding in Port Hadlock, Washington, partnered with the Northwest Maritime Center to offer a series of hands-on instructional “SCAMP Camps,” where builders spent two weeks building their own SCAMPS and towing them home at the course’s end. At the most recent camp, 10 SCAMPS were built side-byside under one roof, with participants taking breaks from building to sail the prototype with designer John Welsford and adventurer Howard Rice. SCAMP has proven so popular that Gig Harbor Boatworks in Gig Harbor, Washington, is currently building molds to offer a production SCAMP in fiberglass, with the first boat expected to splash in February of 2013. Future SCAMP fleets are already starting to pop up all over the country, especially around her birthplace on the shores of Puget Sound, and the U.S. Sailing Association has recently recognized SCAMP as an official class. Although designed for poking around the shallows and maybe an occasional overnight camping aboard, SCAMP continues to draw the admiration of the adventure set. One has already completed the rugged 300-mile Everglades Challenge race in Florida. Ten SCAMPS were built side-by-side in the Northwest Maritime Center. The next course is scheduled for March.

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Nautical Glossary Lee side: The side of a boat sheltered from the wind Centerboard: A board or plate lowered through the hull (typically on the centerline) to resist leeway. Capsize: When a boat rolls over. To overturn. Broach: When a sailing vessel loses control of its motion and is forced into a sudden sharp turn, often heeling heavily and sometimes leading to a capsize. Occurs when too much sail is set for conditions. Howard Rice demonstrating the diminutive yacht’s extreme maneuverability on a winter test sail.

Ballast: material that is placed low in the boat to provide stability. To Heel: Where a vessel tips sideways to some extent. In a sailboat, usually caused by the wind’s force on the sails. Garboards: The lowest planks (strakes) next to the keel. Dinghy: A small open or partly decked boat with or without sails. Berth: A designated sleeping space or bed. Sloop: A boat rigged with mainsail and single foresail. Leech: The after edge of a sail. Mizen: The sail aft of the mainsail in a ketch or yawl.

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Yard: The spar to which the head of a standing, balance or gunter lug mainsail is laced. Burgee: A flag (often triangular) usually bearing the insignia of the yacht club to which the owner belongs. Leeway: The difference between a course steered and actually sailed. Samson Post: A small stout post on the foredeck to which the anchor chain or mooring line may be made fast.

Kaytlin Parkin has been learning Makah dances siince before she could walk.

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The Famous Cape Flattery

Destination Neah Bay: Disconnect and Discover By Barb Rees At Salt Creek Recreation Area campground, giant slabs of ancient rock brushed by soft Juan de Fuca rollers, reduced my vocabulary to WOW! The Strait of Juan de Fuca is part of the “Ring of Fire,” a circle of volcanic activity bordering the entire Pacific Ocean margins. But the only evidence of fire that day was the fiery sun on the horizon. It was the beginning of our Neah Bay, Washington, adventure. West on scenic Highway 112 from Port Angeles, my cell phone signal dis-

appeared, disconnecting us from the “world.” If you take this route, slow down and disconnect to reconnect with nature. The highway meanders along the ocean at times, but other times it ducks inland. The only mobile phone service that works out on the West End is Verizon. Neah Bay and the Makah, “People of the Cape,” welcomed us warmly. About 1,600 people call Neah Bay home year-round. Fishing and logging are the main industries and the Makah

have the largest tribal fishing fleet in the United States. First stop: the Makah Cultural and Research Center, including the museum, where we purchased the $10 annual recreation permit required on the reserve. The displays and dioramas create a world-class museum you don’t expect to find in a tiny village. About 498 artifacts are on display, but they are a small part of the 55,000 kept in storage. The Center also houses a research library, and it is where the

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Enjoying a Hobuck Bay sunset.

language of the Makah is taught. Sitting in a longhouse replica, listening to the chanting, I felt the energy of the ancients flow over me. For centuries, the village of Ozette was home for the Makah. It was partially buried by a mudslide approximately 500 years ago. In 1970, tidal erosion started to expose the remains of the village. The ensuing archaeological dig lasted 11 years, resulting in the re-creation of Makah history at the museum. At the gift store, we learned that tiny olive shells are used extensively in jewelry. They are harvested locally and used to decorate Makah regalia. These shells have been found in the oldest archeological digs in Neah Bay. The Makah Nation were skilled mariners, navigating the straits in a variety of different canoes specific to the task at hand, whether fishing for halibut, hunting seals and whales or, in the early days, war. Whaling is central to the Makah culture, and there are whalebone deposits and barbs from harpoons in Ozette, dating back 2,000 years. Today Neah Bay attracts thousands of visitors to the coast for hiking, surfing, mind-boggling scenery and culture. More than 20,000 visitors like us hike to Cape Flattery, northwesternmost point of the contiguous United States, each year. It’s a moderate, ¾-mile boardwalk stroll. The vista at the first viewpoint stopped me in my tracks. Looking down on pillars of rocks, wild waves and sparkling mats of bull kelp, as the ground under my feet vibrated, was a humbling experience. The end point looks across to Tatoosh Island and lighthouse. Crisp ocean breezes woke our senses, marking us with the stamp of this place. Back in town, we bought delicious fish from Kim at “Take Home Fish”, who hot smokes the salmon. He brings in 30,000 pounds of fish per year and Hiker on the boardwalk to Cape Flattery.

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Kim Brown with a batch of smoked salmon.

smokes 80–100 pounds of fresh salmon daily. Off to the side of the smoker barrel, the smoke house was stacked with trays of strips of salmon, which in 12–36 hours will become jerky or salmon candy. Coastal aboriginal peoples have historically cured fish or meat using smoke as an effective way to preserve food. Tinker Lucas, who works on the Sail River Heights housing project serving needy Makah families, also works with the local garden club to build raised garden beds, providing the soil and plants for gardeners. In an effort to help the proud Makah people keep healthy, both physically and culturally, progressive movements like this, along with dozens of signs students put up warning about the dangerous of drink and drugs, are expanding into the

community. The Head Start program in Neah Bay starts teaching the little ones about their cultural heritage and dances at an early age. Michelle Parkin brought her daughter Kaytlin, 9, and her cousin Ada, 6, to the beach to meet us in their Makah Days regalia. They looked lovely in their shell-draped dresses and capes with family designs created by Michelle’s brother. Kaytlin and Ada have been dancing since they could walk, and with laughing eyes and ocean breezes ruffling their skirts, they danced in the sand. Art is abundant, and we found a treasure trove at Raven’s Corner, shop owned by artist, author, drum maker and jeweler, Melissa Peterson-Renault. About 25 years ago, she went outside at midnight and there, under the The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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Kelp snakes across the sand on Hobuck Beach.

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streetlamp, was a tall creature walking upright with long strides, its fur shimmering silver in the mist. She watched it for some time and recognized it as a Sasquatch, the legendary, some say mythical, wildman prevalent in the Pacific Northwest. Sightings are common in the area. We camped at Hobuck Beach Resort, which has cottages, a fully serviced RV park and campground on 17 beachfront acres. Ears flying, our little dog Pali tore around the sandy beach while we watched wet sand turn to gold in the evening sun. The day we left, surfers and kayakers were topping the waves for competitions at the Hobuck Hoedown, a two-day paddle surfing festival. Our departure from Neah Bay took us south onto Highway 101. As my cell phone kicked in to reconnect me with “the world,” I felt a little sad to say, “So long for now,” to Neah Bay. www.neahbaywa.com

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Surfers arrived for the Hobuck Hoedown competitions.

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Olympia to Nanaimo

South Zone Kenmore Air Destination Map

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SLU:

Neighborhood Happenings

Seattle’s South Lake Union Neighborhood, home of Kenmore Air’s Seaplane Terminal.

Seattle’s Museum of History & Industry Reinvents Itself With Major Move to South Lake Union By Josh Mahar Ann Farrington, creative director for the Museum of History & Industry (MOHAI) watches as the 1919 Boeing B-1 mail plane is carefully rigged to be hung from the monumental trusses of the historic armory building, then slowly raised into place in the museum’s Grand Atrium. Farrington and her team have taken every precaution to make sure the historic seaplane is kept safe through its move across town. Once the fragile aircraft is securely in place, Farrington takes a deep breath; another artifact done, only a couple thousand more to go. Farrington has been charged with moving MOHAI from its sixty-yearold facility in Seattle’s Montlake neighborhood into the heart of all the frenzied growth and excitement of South Lake Union. In order to make room for the widening of SR-520, 40

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MOHAI and the City of Seattle collaborated to secure the historic Naval Reserve Armory at Lake Union Park as a new home for MOHAI. Since then the museum has been hard at work completely restoring and updating the 1940s building, carefully relocating the millions of artifacts and photographs from its collection, and reimagining the entire experience for museumgoers, not to mention raising the $90 million needed to fund the project. “Since we started the move, it’s simply been go, go, go for our whole team,” admits Farrington, “but at the same time, every single day I come here I am more energized about the finished project. I don’t think anyone could have imagined that it would be this spectacular.” “This is undoubtedly the most transformative event in MOHAI’s history;

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it will enormously expand our ability to connect communities with the heritage and culture of Seattle,” exclaims Leonard Garfield, executive director of the museum. Garfield has been anticipating this move for over a decade, and his enthusiasm for its completion is obvious as he tours the new space. Garfield, along with Lorraine McConaghy, MOHAI’s public historian, describes how the design and flow of each gallery were constructed to engage visitors with the people and events of Seattle’s past. McConaghy explains that, “Instead of a timeline, the museum is conceived as a set of ‘snapshots’ that fully immerse visitors in different historical settings.” This is apparent as the group files between a set of enormous photos of Pacific Northwest forests, a salmon stream painted along the floor: we’ve just

entered into the pre-pioneer era. But for all the thought and creativity that invested in the exhibits, it’s the building that is really jaw-dropping. “Every time someone walks into the Grand Atrium, with the Boeing plane, the huge Rainier Beer sign and other Seattle icons all around, they simply don’t believe it’s the same building,” Garfield laughs. “It’s a testament to the fantastic vision and execution of all the people who helped make this happen.” The museum officially opened its doors on December 29, 2012. Along with the permanent exhibit about Seattle’s journey from wilderness to world city, the museum is also hosting an exhibit called Celluloid Seattle: A City at the Movies, which explores Seattle’s dynamic relationship with film, and Punctum/Poetry, a collaboration with Arts Corps that brings MOHAI’s photo collection alive through poetry and spoken word produced by Seattle high-school students.

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Lopez Island Vineyards & Winery

Winemaking from the Heart By Thei Zervaki

For Brent Charnley, the owner of picturesque Lopez Island Vineyards & Winery, Lopez Island was the ideal spot to create award-winning wines. His strong, heart-felt connections to the island and the perfect geography and climate have proved to be a winning combination. 42

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In his youth, he had spent summers on the island and returned there within a week of graduating from high school in 1975. “My parents brought me first to Lopez when I was only a month old,” he said. “They worked summers for the Henderson’s Camp then operating on Lopez. We continued to sum-

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mer on the island as I grew up, so that Lopez was my second home.” But his wine career didn’t begin there. Charnley encountered the wine world in a serendipitous manner: he got a job in a vineyard in Bordeaux while hitchhiking in France. That summer, he learned all about pruning, tractor driving and other farming skills, while working during the growing season. After his graduation from UC Davis in 1983, where he created the first-of-its-kind individual major in both winemaking and grape growing, graduating with high honors, he returned to Washington where he continued developing his wine career. He also started to grow a nursery of vines at his home in anticipation of beginning his own vineyard, while gaining work experience at wineries throughout Washington State. Through relationships with friends on Lopez Island, the idea of a lease came up as a way to start a winemaking operation, so with seed money and help from his wife and friends, in 1987 he planted the first three acres of vines. According to Charnley, their “bootstrapping” included using the plants he had rooted and grown himself and collecting cedar posts and stakes off the beaches. The only purchase they made was a small John Deere tractor and a few other implements. Lopez Island was the perfect choice, with its combination of geography and climate. Additionally, the fields had been farmed without pesticides for over a hundred years, making this a good choice for an organic vineyard. The payoff came in 1989 when the Washington State Department of Agriculture certified the six-acre vineyard of the Puget Sound Appellation as Organic. It is one of only four certified organic vineyards in the state. He chose Lopez Island, not just for his “strong heart-felt connection” to this island, but because of the geography and climate. He states, “This location has a wonderful southwest

estates to beach cottages any style always with great warmth (Above) Entrance to the winery grounds, site of special events and tastings, theater and a wedding venue. Winemaker Brent Charnley on the vineyard tractor. Brent loves his job. (Opposite) Lopez Island Vineyard Estate organically grown wine Madeleine Angevine shown with the grapes of that varietal name.

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Family photo (L to R) son Tim Gehling, son Cedar Charnley, daughter Sophie Nilan, son Nick Gehling, wife Maggie Nilan, and Brent Charnley.

Lopez Island Vineyard with rainbow, in November 2012.

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exposure and slope, which gives this site the advantage of good air and water drainage. Additionally, the climate, while much cooler than traditional wine climates, has a long frostfree and low-rainfall growing season, this being due to Lopez Island being in the heart of the Olympic Mountainsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; rain shadow.â&#x20AC;? The connection to the community on Lopez Island makes the wines even more special. Looking ahead to the first grape harvest in 1990, the partners decided to turn to the community for funding and ran a small stock offering through the Washington State Securities Department. This funded the creation of the 1,300-square-foot winery and allowed them to expand the farm to 30 acres. Every fall, community members pitch in with the harvest, enjoying the camaraderie and parties associated with being part of this tradition. The vineyard grows grapes matching the Lopez climate to similar regions of northern Europe, with Siegerrebe and Madeleine Angevine being the primary two. Those two

varietals “are our flagship wines and have gathered the most medals over the 22 years we have been making wine,” said Charnley. Other varietals the winery crafts are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Chardonnay. They added Malbec in the early 2000s. He doesn’t hide his enthusiasm for the 2012 harvest. “It looks fantastic,” he admits. “The weather is perfect and the grapes are well balanced and flavorful.” The future looks good, too. His hope is “to see viticulture continue beyond us on Lopez Island as it is a special little piece of ‘terroir’ that makes outstanding wines that are great representatives of these varietals.” The wines are available through selfdistribution to markets in the Bellingham and Seattle region, primarily through natural food co-ops. Lopez Island Vineyards & Winery is also represented at four different farmer’s markets in the Seattle area. www.lopezislandvineyards.com

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Epicurean Escape Indulge in an authentic island dining experience. Let the feast begin with a gourmet artisan cheese and charcuterie plate and a bottle of wine in your room upon arrival. Then join us in The Bluff Restaurant for a five-course tasting menu expertly crafted by Chef Kyle Nicholson. Top it off with a relaxing evening in front of your fireplace and jetted tub for two. 130 West Street | Friday Harbor, WA 98250 360.378.8455 | 866.722.7356 | fridayharborhouse.com

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Biking

Around the Islands By Irene Middleman Thomas

Vancouver Island and the Gulf Islands in Canada’s temperate British Columbia province are a treasure trove for adventure cyclists and outdoor enthusiasts. The area is full of rivers, bays, estuaries, ocean beaches and tiny spits of land reaching out into the water. There are hundreds of kilometers of cycling terrain, ranging from wild and rugged coastal rainforest to pastoral farmland to heart-pounding hills. Wildlife is rich here – you’d have to try hard NOT to see seals, deer, dolphins and eagles, and you just might view an orca, bear or cougar. The best times for cycling, locals agree, would be May through October. We visited in mid September, which gave us the delightful first kiss of autumn’s colors as well as refreshing cooler weather. We started a weeklong independent cycling adventure in our base city of Victoria, British Columbia’s gorgeous British-flavored capital city, located at the southern tip of Vancouver Island. We took a three-day foray to the Cowichan Valley and Salt Spring Island, returned to Victoria for a day and then journeyed up to the Campbell River region for another three days of cycling. Staying at the cycle-friendly, luxurious LEED® Platinum-certified Parkside Victoria Resort & Spa, we were conveniently just blocks away from Cycle Treks, the bike-rental company we used. Cycle Treks is located next to the Kenmore Air Floatplane Terminal in the Inner Harbour of Victoria. They helped plan our South Island threedayer and then worked with Island Joy Rides, based in Campbell River, for the next three-day adventure. On both 48

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Bikers taking a break at Comox Valley Estuary. (Right) Leaving the pedals behind for a kayaking tour near Quadra Island.

journeys we rode about 30 miles a day, which allowed us plenty of time to sightsee and to indulge in little blackberry picking breaks. We were thrilled to find out that in September, juicy, delicious wild blackberries are everywhere on Vancouver Island, in huge, dense thickets. Any trip on Vancouver Island is almost sure to use the BC Ferries, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest and most sophisticated ferry system, with 36 boats and 25 routes. The ferries are punctual, very well organized and extremely bikefriendly. From the ferries, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll spot dolphins, seals, sea birds, and sometimes, even orcas. We walked from the Parkside with a two-day supply of clothing to Cycle Treks to rent our bikes and fill our panniers. Cycling a few blocks The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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through the downtown Inner Harbour area, we crossed over the blue Johnson Street Bridge and made our way to the start (marked by a totem pole) of the Galloping Goose Trail, a popular and well-designed urban bike path. We saw and feasted on our first blackberries here. We took the Galloping Goose, passing under several bridges decorated with native First Nations murals, viewing crew teams practicing in the river, crossing through a wide variety of homes, businesses, schools and parks on either side of the wide trail. Transferring onto the rest of the route, we made it to the little Brentwood Bay ferry terminal in about two hours. Yes, we got a bit lost, despite the maps, but the locals are friendly, and were actually eager to help us. Roads on the Island are twisty and change names often. Just ask, and someone will come to help you. The 25-minute boat ride took us to Mill Bay, where for about an hour, we followed some complicated directions, passing by darting deer and farms. We ended up at bike-friendly Merridale Ciderworks. A lovely pastoral spot where we enjoyed lunch, accompanied by a flight of six hard ciders. Soon after, we arrived at Oceanfront Suites at Cowichan Bay. The staff encouraged us to take the bikes into our wellequipped suite, with a glorious view of Cowichan Bay. The tiny town, also named Cowichan Bay, is famed for its locally grown and made foods. The next morning, we set our again, cycling through the hilly, woodsy terrain (stopping for more blackberries) around Cowichan Bay to reach the small Crofton Ferry Terminal to get the ferry to Salt Spring Island. Ganges, the island’s main town is about an hour from the Vesuvius ferry terminal. Salt Spring’s roads are not designed for cycling, with narrow shoulders, steep hills and not so careful drivers. Take Enjoying Island Joy Rides’ feast at Dolphins Resort, Campbell River.

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Line of bikers posed for a group photo at the Courtenay Airpark trail. (Right) Spectacular views along the bike trail overlooking Goose Spit and Comox Glacier

care, especially on the very steep hill out of town on the way to the Fulford Harbour Ferry Terminal on the other side of the island. Leaving the ferry terminal at Swartz Bay back on Vancouver Island, we took the Lochside Trail through Sidney by the Sea, then on through pastureland, postcard-perfect pumpkin patches and lovely neighborhoods with botanical garden-like yards full of flowers. The route is generally well marked, with only a few instances of the Lochside Trail sign not in sight. After three hours or so, we arrived back in Victoria, having retraced our route on the Galloping Goose and turned in our bikes to Cycle Treks. The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine

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“Rush hour” at Rebecca Spit on Quadra Island, B.C.

The next day, we were off for the second part of our foray, starting with a three-hour drive up to the Campbell River area, passing through Nanaimo. In Courtenay, we joined with the owners of boutique travel company Island Joy Rides, Laurel Cronk and Kim Barry. Irrepressibly enthusiastic and yet oh-so-professional and organized, the two women completely set us up. We found it charming that they give each bike a Gulf Island-inspired name. The company specializes in all-inclusive, guided cycling trips on Vancouver Island, but is willing to help with independent trips and to design itineraries. We spent the next two days cycling through dense forests and along the coast, stopping to rest at several gorgeous spots, including the First Nations 52

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cemetery, filled with totem poles, and the beautiful Elk Falls Provincial Park, which seemed to be a perfect hiding place for elves and trolls. The winding paths here tend to confuse even regular, daily visitors – so don’t despair, someone will come to lead you to the way out, unless you would rather stay in this idyllic spot. Later, we rode through Seaview Farm and took a break to make friends with its small herd of Highland cattle. Our inn for the night, Susie’s on the Shore, is right on the beach and owned by a Susie and Michael Moscovich. The following day, we rode through the Campbell River area, renowned for First Nation totem poles. That night was spent at Dolphins Resort, a cozy set of twelve cabins at a fishing retreat right

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on the water, with a fabulous onsite restaurant and private hot tubs. Our last day was spent on scenic Quadra Island, which we reached by ferry from the Campbell River terminal. We rode around the island all morning, visiting with local artisans in their home studios. We had a succulent luncheon at the Heriot Bay Inn, a well-kept historical fishing retreat on the island’s tip. The week was over, and we reluctantly turned in our bikes and settled in for the one hour, forty minute flight to Nanaimo. Seals and dolphins cavorted around us as we approached the Tsawwassen terminal, giving us our last wildlife joy on Vancouver Island. www.islandjoyrides.com www.cycletreks.com

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Northwest Author Spotlight: Michele Dunkerley By Susan Colby

Enriching Lives Through Art and Community It seems counterintuitive for an attorney in the hi-tech world of Microsoft and Dell to fall in love with a house in five minutes. But that spontaneous love affair was the impetus behind author Michele Dunkerley’s book, Houses Made of Wood and Light; The Life and Architecture of Hank Schubart. The Schubart house she fell in love with is now her second home, where she spends summers away from the searing Texas heat. Her mother, Georgia Dunkerley, a nurse and physical therapist, exposed Dunkerley to art at an early age. She took her daughter to her favorite museums, instilling in her the belief that art should be shared. Although Georgia herself was a budding artist, she was an excellent money manager who encouraged her daughter to become an attorney. “I knew I had to support

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myself,” the younger Dunkerley said. “Becoming an attorney was a means to an end.” But she affirms that being in the hi-tech industries early on, she was

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fortunate, as this allowed her to be creative without the restraints and rules now in place in that industry. Years later, setting aside her corpo-

rate background, her mother’s beliefs are evident in the work she is doing. Her intriguing book brings to light Schubart’s belief that “Everybody should have access to an architect.” During his life, he generously shared his genius with his clients and friends. He brought a level of sophistication to Salt Spring Island, always consciously maintaining a sense of place. At the time of his death at 82, he had completed 230 significant projects on the island. For Dunkerley, beyond writing a book that shares Schubart’s architectural art with the world, her sharing and love of art extends to endowments to the LBJ School of Public Affairs and the School of Law, where she earned her degrees. Her “means to an end” has allowed her to underwrite the Dunkerley Chronicles, interdisciplinary teaching shows at the College. She has also endowed the M. Georgia Hegarty Dunkerley Contemporary Texas Art Series, books that feature mid-career Texas artists, 40 percent of which need to be about women. Her sense of community continues to touch and enrich many lives from Texas to the Gulf Islands. With her partner Jane Hickie, she has embarked on a project in her hometown of Stephenville, Texas, a project she says is the “pro-rodeo capital of the world.” The First National Bank of Stephenville in Stephenville’s historic downtown square is being given a new life under her largesse, as is the historic Dawson Saloon, also located on the square. According to Dunkerley, her restoration work on all the projects she undertakes is guided by Heather McKinney, founding principal of McKinney York Architects in Austin, Texas, who collaborated with her on the Schubart book on Salt Spring Island. “Art provokes a community, provides a shared language,” Dunkerley said. “It’s not about the money, it’s about enriching lives.”

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Travel Savvy

Say ‘Taboo’ to the Flu

By Betsy Crowfoot

Traveling during cold and flu season? How to stave off germs and illness. Colds and flu will affect one in five people in North America this winter, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC). So how do you ensure you’re in the 80 percent that skates by? Wash Your Hands Mom was right. Proper hand washing is the best deterrent to icky germs, and nothing beats soap and water. The CDC suggests you scrub-a-dub-dub for as long as it takes to sing ‘Happy Birthday’ twice. (Silently. Please.) Carry alcohol-based hand wipes for use onboard your flight, and give that tray table and armrest a swipe too. Alos, remember to wash before eating and before touching your eyes, nose or mouth. Fortify Your Immune System Get sufficient rest. Drink plenty of water and juices. (Coffee, tea and alcohol can dehydrate you, and weaken your resistance.) Add moderate exercise and a healthy diet and your body becomes a virus-slaying machine. 56

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These are beneficial practices at any time, but particularly during flu season when victims can be contagious even before symptoms appear and up to one week afterwards. Steer Clear of Coughing, Sneezing People Virus-laden droplets are scattered when infected people sneeze, cough or talk. You don’t need to be in the line of fire to be affected when airborne germs settle and linger on surfaces. Wash fervently and disinfect often. As for you own symptoms? If you already have a cold and a flight to catch, be sure to take a decongestant to relieve the pressure before you take off. That sniffly nose means your body is doing battle, ridding your sinuses of germs. Carry ample tissues and discard them once used. If you don’t have one handy, cough or sneeze into your sleeve, not your hand. Take Your Vitamins The verdict is still out as to whether Vitamins C and D, echinacea, and

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zinc really can chase germs away, but in recommended doses, they can’t hurt; so if it makes you feel better, pop away. Likewise, if you catch a bug, over-the-counter remedies such as decongestants (to relieve sinus pressure) and analgesics (to reduce aches, pain and fever) can make your spell more tolerable. Speaking of fever: according to the Canadian Public Health Association (CPHA), if your symptoms – cough, stuffy nose, sore throat, achiness – also include fever, headache and extreme fatigue, you probably have flu, not a cold. An annual vaccine is the single best way to prevent seasonal flu, say experts at the World Health Organization, who claim up to 90 percent effectiveness in deterring influenza. Despite the best preventative measures, you may still catch a cold or flu. Chances are it will run its course in a week to 10 days. If symptoms last longer, and/or you run a fever higher than 100.4° F, check in with your health care provider.

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Winter Flyaways Hidden Haven Olympic Peninsula, WA

By Susan Colby

A Hidden Haven in Port Angeles is truly a hidden gem. And not a diamond in the rough, either. Located just a few miles out of town on the road to Neah Bay, A Hidden Haven is the ideal spot to base your adventures around the Northern Olympic Peninsula. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s within striking distance of most of the local attractions, including Port Townsend, Forks (the Twilighterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s heaven) and Lake Quinault. Jodi and Chris Jones are the owners of this charming getaway and have lived on the property for 40 years. They started the bed and breakfast after 58

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Nine-passenger wheeled Caravan

Ten-passenger Turbo Otter seaplane

Chris retired from many years fishing in Alaska and their children left home. After several years operating out of the house, which has two luxury suites, they added the five self-contained cottages. Each site was carefully chosen, providing guests seclusion and privacy. “We found people want to be more independent,” Jodi commented. Although the Jones’ have maintained the B & B option, she said that most guests opt for the self-catering options. And why not? All the cottages are completely self sufficient, right down to having their own washing machines and dryers. The kitchens are also complete with dishwashers, coffee makers, a good selection of pots and pans and all the necessary utensils. And, of course, in this connected world, each cottage is connected to wi-fi. These delightful cottages are far more than simply vacation cabins. Each cottage is different, with elegant, understated décor. Each has its own

personality; for instance the Forest Romance Cottage has a two-person, heart shaped Jacuzzi tub and an enormous king size bed. The Woodland Retreat Cottage features woodsy Pacific Northwest décor, the Morning Dove Cottage has a French Country theme and the Sweet Heart Cottage is an ideal honeymoon spot. But these cottages aren’t designed just for romantic getaways. They are ideal for families, too. Jodi and Chris are nature lovers, and the property is laced with trails where you might run into raccoons and bobcats and bears, to name just a few of the wild creatures that inhabit the forest. For a tamer experience, there is a herd of fallow deer that share the paddock with Prancer, the friendly reindeer, and a flock of chickens. The large pond, which predates the house, is stocked with trout, and fly fishers can practice their catch and release skills, as bald eagles and osprey eye the progress. The whole area is a bird watcher’s paradise.

Summer is a popular time to visit, as the Olympic Peninsula offers so many adventures for nature lovers. There are numerous hiking and biking trails, and the spectacular beaches are within a short drive. For winter visitors, Hurricane Ridge in the Olympic National Park is a close-by destination with snowshoeing and sledding for kids of all ages. For many, simply enjoying the peace and quiet of A Hidden Haven is enough.

A Great Escape on the Olympic Peninsula A Hidden Haven 1428 Dan Kelly Road, Port Angeles, WA 98363 877.418.0938 ahiddenhaven.com

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Magnolia Hotel & Spa, Victoria,BC

Sure, Victoria is known for its summer charm. Flowers bloom, sailboats hug the coastal shoreline and local artisans showcase their wares to revelers strolling along the Inner Harbour. But during the winter, Victoria is just as appealing, taking on a more sophisticated allure as festive lights and events, and sometimes a light sprinkling of snow, join the shoppers and flower baskets that adorn the sidewalks of the historic British Columbia city. A two-minute walk from the Inner Harbour, the Magnolia Hotel & Spa is an ideal spot to anchor yourself for a winter getaway. Having been recognized as one of the Top Luxury Hotels in Canada by TripAdvisor’s 2012 Travelers’ Choice awards and voted as one of the top hotels in Canada by Condé Nast Traveler readers, the boutique hotel has a significant following. Visitors to the hotel are complimentary about the details – friendly and helpful staff, the quiet tinkling of the baby grand piano in the lobby, in-room 60

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By Susan Rybar

fireplaces and deep soaker tubs, and complimentary hot mulled apple cider. Many reviews comment on the comfort provided by the large rooms and understated elegance of the decor. Built in 1998, the hotel was designed to fit into Victoria’s old town district and was merged with a neighboring building, erected in 1912. The site was previously home to book publishers, printers and engravers, a paving company and a banjo shop. Now, with only 64

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rooms and tucked along a central but secondary street, the hotel feels personal and intimate yet still undiscovered and discrete. Three types of rooms are available, including Superior, Corner and Diamond rooms. All come with locally-made chocolates at your bedside, fresh fruit, high-speed internet, deep soaker tubs, Aveda products and bathrobes. Both Corner Rooms and Diamond rooms feature the impressive view of the Parlia-

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their British Columbia wine offerings and cozy up in front of the lounge’s gas fireplace. With the right mix of sophisticated elegance, old world details and modern indulgences, the Magnolia Hotel & Spa blends right in with Victoria’s yearround appeal. A visit to the Magnolia just might be the start of your new winter tradition.

“#2 Best Hotel in Canada”Travel+Leisure-2012

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The Magnolia Hotel & Spa 623 Courtney Street Victoria, BC V8W 1B8 (250) 381-0999 www.magnoliahotel.com Prime Steakhouse 621 Courtney St Victoria, BC V8W 1C1 (250) 386.2010 www.primesteak.ca

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ment buildings and the Inner Harbour. If you are more interested in a personal retreat – staying in rather than exploring the town – visit the newly enlarged Spa Magnolia and book an Innercalm Body Scrub, the Inbalance Vibrational Zone Massage, or one of the other treatments that utilizes the new line of Intelligent Nutrients products. Spa Magnolia was the first in Canada to offer the product line designed by Aveda founder Horst Rechelbacher. Intelligent Nutrients is 100 percent USDA Certified Organic and claims, like food, it is “good enough to go into your mouth.” Looking for more tantalizing fare? Visit the velvet-draped, on-site restaurant Prime Steakhouse & Lounge. The menu features eight cuts of beef that have been aged for up to 40 days in their Himalayan salt tile-lined cooler. The menu also offers an array of seafood choices, including Tuna tartare “negitoro” with seaweed salad, tuna tataki and apple. Pair your meal with one of

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Willows Lodge Woodinville, WA

By Rebecca Agiewich

away the most relaxing place we’ve stayed in the Seattle area. We are completely decompressed within moments of settling into our room, and after a long soak in the amazing tub, are disinclined to leave the room at all – except maybe for a trip to the spa or the outdoor Jacuzzi.” But if you can rouse yourself from these comforts, there’s much to see, do – and taste – just a few steps from your door.

The beautifully designed Willows Lodge in Woodinville, Washington, has been winning Seattleites’ hearts since 2000. Twenty-five miles from Seattle, the lodge is perfectly situated for a quick romantic getaway for wine-loving urbanites. It’s nestled on five landscaped acres bordering the Sammamish River, where kayakers ply the tranquil waters and cyclists roll along the popular Sammamish River Trail. Vibrant gardens and picturesque courtyards surround the lodge, creating an enclave of serenity. Showered with awards from the likes of Conde Nast Travel and Travel + Leisure, Willows Lodge has earned fans around the world – for its food, wine, garden and spa. Yet even with all its accolades, the lodge – built of reclaimed Douglas fir from the Port of Oregon – remains a down-to-earth, relaxing destination with an unpretentious Northwest vibe.

in your spacious room: unwinding in the oversized jetted tub, enjoying a roaring fire in the stone fireplace and ordering room service from the Barking Frog restaurant. (Even your doggie can order room service at this petfriendly lodge.) Matt Bohlmann, from Seattle, has been escaping to Willows for years. Says Matt, “My wife and I have stayed at Willows both for our anniversary and for her birthday and it’s far and

Peace and Pampering for People and Pets Alike Willows Lodge is so relaxing that it’s tempting to spend the entire weekend 62

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Food and Wine Nirvana Surround You Two of the most talked-about restaurants in the region are on the Willows Lodge property. The Barking Frog turns out exquisite bistro-style comfort food with a playful twist. One taste of the Frog’s signature appetizer – Grand Marnier Prawns: creamy, crunchy, and scandalously rich – and you will be primed for the rest of your meal. The wine list is heavily weighted toward Washington wines, and has been awarded “Most Innovative Wine List” by the Washington Wine Commission. It’s also received Wine Spectators’ Award of

Bobby Moore, Executive Chef Barking Frog

GRAND MARNIER PRAWNS Prawns: 20 prawns 1 ½ c. corn starch

Excellence five years in a row. The Herbfarm (which shares property with the Willows Lodge) is Washington’s only five-star restaurant. Showcasing northwest cuisine, the Herbfarm serves up thematic nine-course dinners with six matched wines. Themes change every few weeks, and past themes have included “Indian Summer,” “A Mycologist’s Dream,” and “Über Tuber” (celebrating the potato). If you don’t want to step foot outside the Lodge, visit the Fireside Cellars off the main lobby for “Happier Hour” and sample tapas from the Barking Dog or enjoy a wine flight from neighboring wineries. When you’re ready to venture out

beyond Willows Lodge, more than 90 wineries await in the Woodinville area, including famous players such as Columbia and Chateau Ste. Michelle, and boutique wineries Gorman and Mark Ryan. Distilleries are booming in Woodinville too, offering everything from handcrafted whiskey to traditional absinthe. The Joy of Surrender Then again, if you really want to chill out, you don’t need to leave the Willows grounds. Wander the four lovingly tended gardens; soak in the peaceful outdoor hot tub, or surrender to a Hot Stone Massage at the spa. There’s always next time for exploration.

Sauce: 1 c. Grand Marnier 3 Tbl. dried orange zest (pulse in a coffee grinder) 4 c. orange juice 2 c. mayonnaise For the sauce, add the Grand Marnier to a sauce pan and burn off the alcohol, cool immediately. Reduce in a separate pan the orange juice to a syrup and cool immediately. Combine the Grand Marnier, orange syrup and pulsed orange zest powder with the mayonnaise and refrigerate. To cook the prawns, heat canola oil or frying oil to 350 degrees. Dust the prawns in the cornstarch, shaking off any excess starch. Fry the prawns until crispy (about 2 minutes) and drain on paper towels. In a large bowl, toss the hot prawns in the Grand Marnier mayonnaise to coat. www.willowslodge.com

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Flying with Kenmore Air

Things you need to know...

Sea-Tac Shuttles

Kenmore Air operates ground shuttles between SeattleTacoma International Airport and its three Seattlearea terminals. These shuttles are complimentary for connections to year-round routes and available at a nominal charge for connections to seasonal routes.

Baggage Allowances

Shuttles must be reserved in advance. When booking flights online, select “Seattle-Tacoma International” as your origin or destination, and our system will automatically book the correct combination of shuttle and flight for you.

Seaplane passengers are permitted up to 25 pounds of baggage per person. All items are weighed and count toward the limit, including purses, laptops, backpacks, and so on. Additionally, no single baggage item can exceed 10 x 16 x 24 inches.

Shuttles pick up from Sea-Tac at Door 00 in the Scheduled Airporter waiting area at the far south end of Baggage Claim. Please be at Door 00 with your claimed baggage at least 10 minutes before the scheduled shuttle departure time. The shuttle driver will always make a departure announcement over the PA system, but passengers are ultimately responsible for getting on the shuttle by departure time.

At Kenmore Air we have big hearts but little airplanes! Our baggage limits and penalties for overweight bags are dictated solely by safety of flight concerns, which are more acute on our size aircraft than on the big jets.

On Kenmore Air Express wheeled-plane flights, passengers may check baggage totaling up to 50 pounds and may hand-carry one personal item (purse, backpack, etc.) of up to 20 pounds. The checked item may not exceed 62 linear inches, and the personal item may not exceed 36 linear inches. Overweight baggage will be carried on either service if capacity is available for $1 per pound. However, overweight/oversized baggage is always at risk of being bumped unless extra baggage space has been reserved and pre-paid in advance.

When connecting to another airline from Sea-Tac, be sure to schedule your Kenmore Air flight and shuttle to arrive at Sea-Tac with sufficient time (per your major airline’s recommendation) to check in, check baggage and clear security. A minimum of 90 minutes is generally recommended.

Customs & Immigration

Charter Service

Kenmore Air offers a lot of scheduled flights to a lot of places, but sometimes, you really need to travel on your schedule, not ours. Or perhaps you need to go somewhere we don’t fly everyday. That’s what charters are for. With our large and diverse fleet of seaplanes and wheeled-aircraft, we’re able to offer customized flying throughout the Pacific Northwest. For a quote, call 866.435.9524 and ask for a charter specialist or send an e-mail to charters@KenmoreAir.com.

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With a handful of extremely limited exceptions, everyone flying internationally — regardless of citizenship or age — is required to have a current, valid passport book. Passport cards, NEXUS cards and so-called “enhanced driver licenses” are not valid for travel aboard Kenmore Air. Travelers should also be aware that some criminal offenses that are misdemeanors in the United States are considered felonies in Canada and can result in denial of entry. Driving under the influence of alcohol is a common example. Every traveler is responsible for making sure that they meet the requirements of international travel. Kenmore Air will accept no liability for cost or inconvenience arising from denial of entry into either the United States or Canada.

Check-in Times

Kenmore Air passengers enjoy a generally more relaxed traveling experience than the typical airline affords. Nevertheless, we do require check-in for all domestic flights 30 minutes prior to scheduled departure. Due to certain requirements of U.S. Customs & Border Protection, check-in for international flights is required 45 minutes prior to departure. Flights close for boarding 15 minutes prior to scheduled departure, which means that seats for passengers who havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t checked in at that time may be released to stand-by passengers. Also, the flight may depart anytime after closing, even if itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s prior to scheduled departure. We like arriving early! For flights departing from unstaffed locations, like seaplane docks in the San Juan Islands or British Columbia, passengers should be ready to go at least 15 minutes prior to scheduled departure time to accommodate unforeseeable variations in flight time.

Reservations & Customer Service Reservations can be made online 24 hours a day, seven days a week at KenmoreAir.com, or call us tollfree seven days a week from 6:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Pacific Time at 866.435.9524. For customer-service inquiries of an urgent nature, call our reservations line at 866.435.9524. For less timesensitive concerns, kudos or complaints, please e-mail us at feedback@KenmoreAir.com.

Alaska Airlines Partnership

Since April 2010, Kenmore Air has been a proud partner in the award-winning Alaska Airlines Mileage Plan. Passengers who are participants in the Alaska plan earn 250 miles each way on qualifying Kenmore Air flights, and miles can also be redeemed for free flights on either airline. For details on the Alaska Airlines Mileage Plan, visit AlaskaAir.com/MileagePlan. In addition to the Mileage Plan partnership, Kenmore Air and Alaska Airlines have an interline ticketing agreement. This means that you can purchase singleticket itineraries between Kenmore Air destinations and more than 90 Alaska Airlines cities across North America, including Hawaii. Besides the simplicity and convenience of making a single phone call or online booking, such joint itineraries also offer much more coordinated and accommodating customer service in the event of weather delays, misrouted baggage or other issues.

Terminal Locations Seattle Boeing Field 7277 Perimeter Road Seattle, WA 98108 Seattle Lake Union 950 Westlake Avenue N. Seattle, WA 98109 Kenmore Air Lake Washington 6321 NE 175th Street Kenmore, WA 98028 Victoria Inner Harbour 1000 Wharf Street Victoria, BC V8W 1T4

Friday Harbor Airport 800 Franklin Drive Friday Harbor, WA 98250 360.378.1067 Eastsound/Orcas Island Airport 847 Schoen Lane Eastsound, WA 98245 360.376.1407 Port Angeles Fairchild Airport 1404 West Airport Road Port Angeles, WA 98363 360.452.6371

Interline bookings can be made only through Alaska Airlines. If your travel plans include an Alaska Airlines city, we strongly encourage you to book an interline ticket by visiting www.AlaskaAir.com or calling 800.ALASKAAIR.

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• Great Choices for Residential Use & Year-round Living • www.bcoceanfront.com • Great Choices for Residential Use & Year-round Living •

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