HARBORS Connecting People, Places, Adventure and Lifestyle.
Opening Day Lake Washington
Royal BC Museum Victoria, BC Salmon Fishing Strait to Puget Pinks USD $6.95 CAN $7.95
Harmony Islands
Sunshine Coast, BC
Westcott Bay Cider
San Juan Island Distillery
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LOVE THE WATER?
We’re your friend with a boat. The Center for Wooden Boats is a hands-on maritime museum located on Seattle’s Lake Union, a stone’s throw away from Kenmore Air. Rent a boat, learn to sail or just marvel at the forces that make planes fly and sailboats sail.
A short walk through Lake Union Park will take you from Kenmore Air’s Lake Union Terminal to Wooden Boat Paradise.
...And Admission is FREE!
ENJOY A GIFT SHOP DISCOUNT! We have t-shirts, hats, mugs, toy boat kits, cards, books and more! Mention this ad for a special HARBORS Magazine discount!
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The Center for Wooden Boats | 1010 Valley Street, Seattle, WA 98109 | 206-382-2628 | www.cwb.org
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A PERFECT LANDING Seattle’s award-winning Elliott Bay Marina offers an urban oasis with two distinct culinary variations. Enjoy our park-like setting for lunch, dinner, or a weekend getaway on your boat – just 3 miles from downtown Seattle.
STOP BY FOR A FREE CUP OF CHOWDER Try a rich cup of our signature seafood chowder at either Maggie Bluffs or Palisade by visiting elliottbaymarina.net and downloading the coupon.
www.mahagonyandmerlot.com
Free 3 hour parking – or call the marina for free shuttle service from Kenmore’s Lake Union hub. Coming by boat? Ask about guest moorage. For details please contact our Harbormaster at 206.285.4817.
Pacific Northwest Region
CCCA
Car | Club 6Classic HARBORS of America
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SUMMER 2013
Whatever your destination, Red Lion has a location for you. Whether you’re boating the Columbia River, soaring above Seattle atop the Space Needle, skiing the fresh power of Idaho mountains or enjoying the open sky of Montana, we know you’re going to need a good night’s sleep. Wherever your Pacific Northwest adventure takes you, Red Lion Hotels will help make it comfortable.
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Gunkholing Around Harmony Islands
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Opening Day
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Race to the South Pole
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Passion Distilled
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Kenmore Air Destination Maps
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Waterfront
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South Lake Union - Seattle
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Strait to Puget Pinks
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Kenmore Air’s First Full-time Female Pilot
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LOCATIONS IN
WASHINGTON • OREGON IDAHO • MONTANA redlion.com 800–Red Lion
Features Exploring the Sunshine Coast Seattle Yacht Club’s Opening Day Victoria’s Royal BC Museum Exhibit San Juan Island Distillery and Westcott Bay Cider South Zone / North Zone
Bauhaus-Inspired Kirkland Waterfront Home
Duke Moscrip’s Famous Chowder House The Smallest of the Pacific Salmon Pilot Michelle Rohter
Northwest Author Spotlight
Jim Lynch, Truth Like the Sun
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Travel Savvy
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Summer Flyaways
Charging your Electronics
Parksville • Port Angeles • Victoria
Cover Photo Montlake Cut on Opening Day by AJ Hunt 6956/1112
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volume 4 issue 3
HA R B OR S The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine
The Pacific Northwest Seaplane Adventures Website
CONTACT P.O. Box 1393 Port Townsend, WA 98368
E: info@harborsmagazine.com W: www.harborsmagazine.com
PUBLISHER / EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Katherine S. McKelvey ART DIRECTOR Anika Colvin EDITOR Susan Colby editor@harborsmagazine.com COPY EDITING Vincent Hagel Russ Young CONTRIBUTORS Rebecca Agiewich Joshua Colvin Mikaela Cowles Betsy Crowfoot Vincent Hagel
Jan Ross Marianne Scott Terry W. Sheely Russ Young
ADVERTISING SALES ads@harborsmagazine.com Katherine Kjaer, Canada Mary Ellen Kennedy, Greater Seattle PHOTO CREDITS
View the most sought after adventure destinations around the waters of the Pacific Northwest.
Adventure & Lifestyle Videos Island Webcam Boating & Adventure Blogging Navigation Maps Articles & Photography Fishing Lodges Resorts & Spas
Jan Ross, pgs. 16-20 Marianne Scott, pgs. 21-25 AJ Hunt pg. 26 Royal BC Museum, pgs. 28-33 Michelle Naranjo, pgs. 34,36 (bottom) Susan Colby, pgs. 35-38 Waterfront, pgs. 44-50
Jeff Hobson, pgs. 52-54 Terry W. Sheely, pg. 56-60 Tara Brown, pgs. 62-64 Jim Lynch, pg. 68 The Beach Club, pgs. 72-73 Anika Colvin, pgs. 74-75 The Oswego Hotel, pgs. 76-77
VIDEO PRODUCTION Citrus Pie Marketing Group WEB DESIGN Danny McEnerney HARBORS magazine is printed by Journal Graphics, Portland, OR.
HARBORS magazine is printed on recycled paper. DISTRIBUTED BY
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Welcome to our summer issue of HARBORS magazine.
Harbor Lights A Note from the Publisher This is the season that every island destination gears up for; when boaters and travelers get out and start exploring our island wonderland. Share your summer adventures with us by going to our blog and submitting your comments to our editor Susan Colby. We want to hear about your experiences. We are also having a Photo Contest, so get your cameras out and send us your best shot! Details are on our Facebook page. The summer issue will take you to the Harmony Islands on the Sunshine Coast of British Columbia; salmon fishing for Pinks in Puget Sound and through a historical exhibit at the Royal BC museum in Victoria. Other features include a close look at the “Opening Day” of boating season at the Seattle Yacht Club and a personal tour of the Westcott Cidery and San Juan Island Distillery in Roche Harbor. Our summer flyaways provide exciting destination ideas in Parksville on Vancouver Island, Victoria’s Inner Harbour and the spectacular Olympic Peninsula. Summer is a great time to take your boat up into the many islands of the Salish Sea and bring your friends up on a seaplane to visit. Kenmore Air has flights scheduled all summer and charters are always available. It’s a great way to start a summer vacation in the Pacific Northwest. Be sure to take time to visit some of our advertisers and support their businesses; without them we would not be able to bring you this beautiful publication. Have a safe and adventurous summer! Enjoy the magazine, your journey and your destination.
Katherine S. McKelvey Publisher
SUBSCRIPTIONS AVAILABLE www.harborsmagazine.com
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© 2013 by All Ports Media Group
All rights reserved. Partial or whole reproduction is prohibited. The publisher will not be held responsible for errors in advertising beyond the cost of the space of the ad. No changes may be made or cancellation accepted after the publication deadline date. Opinions expressed in signed articles are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect the views of this magazine or Kenmore Air Harbor, Inc.
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Northwest Maritime Center
Entertain, Inspire, Enlighten
Home of the Wooden Boat Foundation
Come and experience the first annual
© Lance Rayfield
•Annual Wooden Boat Festival •Navigation Simulator Training •Global Piracy Summit •Boating & Cruising Symposia •Sailing Regattas •Wooden Boat Chandlery •Learn-to-Sail Programs •Boat Building Classes
Port Townsend, Washington www.nwmaritime.org
431 Water Street 12
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Port Townsend, WA 98368
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FRIDAY HARBOR Film Festival Stories from the Pacific Rim October 11-12-13, 2013 Join us for the first annual Friday Harbor Film Festival featuring films focused on the Pacific Ocean and its Rim. Enjoy movies about island cultures, marine ecology, great adventures, environmental issues and the people who live and work near the world’s largest ocean. Discover Friday Harbor, located on San Juan Island, Washington, and see why TripAdvisor has selected it as the USA’s Number #1 prime island destination, and the #4 best island to visit in the WORLD!
Visit www.fhfilmfest.org for more information.
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HARBORS Travel Club Card
Notes From Our Readers HARBORS Travel Club Members receive a 10% or greater rewards discount at the following participating businesses. The rewards vary by business and are restricted to regular priced merchandise and services. Contact the individual businesses for restrictions and details or go to: www.harborsmagazine.com/travel-club
Happy Boater Loves HARBORS Magazine I just received my issue of Harbors magazine and I must say - I love it as much as I thought I would - saw some issues at the Seattle Boat show and was impressed with the articles and the photography so I agreed to take out a subscription. I am certainly not disappointed! It’s a bit like the best of all my favourite worlds... where to go and eat, where to stay, what to see... boating…flying...birding...fishing... great photography...and even a little Home and Garden thrown in! Oh, and wineries.
Participating Businesses & Organizations Victoria/Vancouver Island, BC
Kings Marine Center
Abigail’s Hotel
Orcas Suites
Bear Mountain Westin
States Inn & Ranch
Bear Mountain Golf Resort
San Juan Classic Day Sailing
Brentwood Bay Lodge
San Juan Excursions, Whale Watching
Delta Victoria Ocean Pointe Resort and Spa
San Juan Vineyards
Hotel Grand Pacific
Trumpeter Inn Bed and Breakfast
Fairholme Manor
Tucker House Bed and Breakfast
Parkside Victoria Resort & Spa
Waterworks Art Gallery
Prestige Oceanfront Resort
Olympic Peninsula
Prime Steakhouse & Lounge Royal BC Museum Sauce Restaurant & Lounge Sooke Harbour House Victoria Regent Waterfront Hotel Waters Edge Resort at Pacific Rim San Juan Islands
Susie’s Mopeds
Bella Italia Restaurant George Washington Inn Gift Shop, Port Angeles Port Ludlow Resort Quileute Oceanside Resort Northern BC Islands Dent Island Lodge
Orcas Island: Doe Bay Resort & Retreats Orcas Island Golf Course San Juan Island: Afterglow Spa Roche Harbor Bird Rock Hotel
EhaArt, Pender Island Poet’s Cove Resort & Spa Rendezvous Lodge Seattle Center for Wooden Boats DiStefano Winery (Woodinville)
Coho Restaurant Crystal Seas Kayaking Day Tours Earthbox Motel & Spa Friday Harbor House Friday Harbor Marine Harrison House Suites Horseshu Guest Ranch Island Inn 123 West Island Wine Company Joe Friday’s Shirt Company
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Daily flights to the San Juan Islands. Fast. Convenient. Stress-free.
ExOfficio Holiday Inn Seattle Jillian’s Billiards Kenmore Air Seattle Scenic Flights Kenmore Air Gift Shop Lake Washington Terminal MarQueen Hotel Quality Inn & Suites, Seattle Center Trago Cocina ZUM Fitness
See www.harborsmagazine.com for additional listings and restrictions.
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Reflect. Refresh. Recharge.
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866.435.9524 KenmoreAir.com San Juan Islands • Olympic Peninsula Victoria, BC • Vancouver Island BC Inside Passage
We travel a lot by boat up and down the coast - last year we explored the San Juan’s for the first time in 30 years, and we also headed up to the North End of Vancouver Island and explored there for four weeks. (Sointula, Port McNeil, Echo Bay, Little Nimmo)... This year we are planning a circumnavigation of Vancouver Island, taking six weeks to travel slowly around and hopefully see everything we want to see. One of the things I am bearing in mind while we travel is where Kenmore Air flies in and out of, charter or regular flights...as we are hoping to have passengers aboard on some of the legs of our trips, in some cases we have to be able to get them in and out where no other means is available. I love the fact that there seem to be no borders with your magazine...just as in real life, with boaters, (and pilots) it doesn’t matter what flag you are flying, everyone has common interests
in the world around them and loves to share what they have. Keep up the good work and I look forward to the next issue! Cheers! Penny Talbot MV Malahide, British Columbia Hawaii Resident Flies Kenmore Air to Blackfish Lodge After Reading Article in HARBORS magazine Wonderful magazine…would never have gone to Blackfish Lodge without that great article... Harry Bjornson Hauula, HI Boaters Use Seaplanes for “Quick Trip” Transportation We took our boat up to Desolation Sound last summer and it was nice to be able to take a quick Kenmore Air flight home to see our first grandchild born. We keep HARBORS on the boat… Nancy and Tom Emory Seattle, WA Tacoma Announces New Seaplane Dock The installation of the long awaited Seaplane landing float at the North End of the Thea Foss Waterway will soon be a reality…late May, early June. This might be a good story for HARBORS magazine. The dock is a project of the Tacoma Waterfront Association and the Foss Waterway Development Authority, and will be attached to an existing dock at the north end of the waterway near Thea’s Park. We look
forward to having seaplanes use the dock to get in and out of the Tacoma waterfront. Stan Sellen Board Member Tacoma Waterfront Association Tacoma, WA Sisters Discover Brentwood Bay Resort, Near Sidney, BC I saw an ad for Brentwood Bay Resort in one of your HARBORS magazine and decided it would be the perfect getaway. I had planned to go with a friend, but she couldn’t make it so I took my sister, Amber who lives in Bellingham. I would have loved to take a Seaplane but we wanted a car so we drove by ferry to Sidney, BC. When we arrived at the resort we were greeted with a complimentary glass of champagne which was very impressive. The room and the restaurant were awesome. Victoria was only 20 minutes away. Amber and I had some great sister time. It was totally fun! What a great location we are definitely planning to go back. BTW great mag… great ideas for places to go! Mallory and Amber Hagel Seattle and Bellingham, WA
To send a “Note From Our Readers” email: info@harborsmagazine.com
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Gunkholing Around Harmony Islands
By Jan Ross
Exploring the Sunshine Coast It’s the quiet you notice first. Even before the lush growth of dark green evergreen trees, the granite slopes scoured by glaciers, the snow topped mountains, and the waterfalls catch your attention. It’s the quiet. As we cruised along the gorgeous Sunshine Coast of British Columbia in our comfortable Un-Cruise Adventures yacht, the Safari Quest, we heard a few seabirds calling to each other, but that was the only sound as the smooth, emerald water peeled away from the bow, leading us to explore these beautiful islands. We were “gunkholing” – a term used in boating circles to describe a style of boat16
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ing, meandering from place to place seeking out isolated anchorages. In addition, we were seeking places to kayak, hike, view wildlife and just enjoy the location. The Harmony Islands are tucked away on the east side of Hotham Sound, off Jervis Inlet in British Columbia. The Harmony Islands Marine Provincial Park covers the southernmost of the four Harmony Islands, the smaller northernmost island and most of the inside foreshore. There is no road access to the area so they are a boater’s paradise, with warm water for swimming, snorkeling, kayaking, fishing and observing wildlife. Kenmore
Air flies charters into several remote areas in the region, where is it possible to rent a boat to explore this coast. From tiny Egmont, where we had docked for a brief walk, we made our way up the coast to the Skookumchuck Rapids that line the entrance to the channel leading to the Harmony Islands. Dr. Campbell Balmer, a Vancouver dentist who purchased the islands in 1932, named these islands. He sold them during World War II, and in 1992, a part of the island group became the Provincial Marine Park. The Safari Quest paused at the entrance to the rapids, just long enough to launch a skiff for those adventur-
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Purple starfish majesty cling to rocks in Jervis Inlet. ers in the group who wanted to brave the rapids for photos and a mild, white water experience. Hardy kayakers were riding the rapids and shouting with excitement as their kayaks threatened to capsize from the waves. The surrounding soaring mountains watched placidly as they have watched the Sechelt First Nations people traverse these same rapids for hundreds of years. Our adventurers back on board, we headed past the Provincial Park towards the Jervis Inlet, gliding along on the dark green water, as smooth as molten metal. The water was so glassy that the reflections of the surrounding mountains, left behind when glaciers scoured their way through the countryside millions of years ago, were clearly reflected in the water, almost like an underwater world of duplicate mountains.
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Harbor seals and river otters floated past, poking their heads up to gaze at us inquisitively unafraid and unabashedly lazy as they lounged in the warm sun. We heard one of the many waterfalls that line the sides of the mountain in the spring and summer before we saw it, soaring hundreds of meters to the top of the mountain, carrying snowmelt down to the inlet. A bald eagle soared above us in the cloudless, dark blue sky, checking out these intruders in his domain as we neared the end of the channel and anchored in tranquil Jervis Inlet. It was time to explore more thoroughly, what we had seen from our yacht so the skiff was relaunched, and we suited up in our bright orange life jackets. The quiet was again noticeable as we pushed away from the launching platform and relished the warm sun on our faces. Paddling closer to
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the rocks, we could see the striations where the glacier had scored it millenniums ago. Then we noticed the starfish – an incredible number of bright purple starfish clustered everywhere, both under and above the water. They were clumped into large and small clusters, clinging to the rocks above and below the water. Those above the water would need to wait patiently until the water returned to cover them, gradually drying out more and more until some would lose their grip and splash down into the water. Back on board, we headed out of the channel into the Strait of Georgia, where we spotted a colony of sea lions lounging on a rock outcropping. A few minutes later, we spotted a black and white orca in the distance, silhouetted against the soaring, snow tipped mountains. Then we realized there
CANADIAN SERVICE AND WARRANTY PROVIDERS FOR NORDHAVEN AND SELENE
Orca sighting around the Sunshine Coast.
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(Top to Bottom) Seagulls in Jervis Inlet. Holding a Starfish in Jervis Inlet. Sea Lions.
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were actually three orcas – a mother, young male and a baby. Drawing close, we saw a lone sea lion in the water with the killer whales. It appeared he had ventured a little too far from the colony we had seen a few miles back and been trapped by these predators. The killer whales began to play a deadly game with the sea lion. Every time he tried to escape, they would circle around and pen him in. They could have killed him in an instant but they played a terrifying game of cat-andmouse, possibly teaching the baby whale about hunting. For the next half hour, we watched as the three orcas circled the sea lion, driving him back to the middle when he tried to escape and even brushing up against him as they cavorted around him. Finally, the orcas seemed to tire of that game and moved in for the kill, smashing down on the sea lion, forcing him down under the water repeatedly with their tails and their huge bodies. Each time the sea lion reappeared, it seemed to be more and more exhausted, just floating on the water, flippers trailing as the killers toyed with it. We were equally horrified and mesmerized by the spectacle. Finally, there was huge splash as the largest orca came down on top of the sea lion and bore him down underwater. For a few minutes, there was complete silence. From the calm appearance of the water and the sun shining out of a cloudless blue sky, you would never have known that deep under the water, the sea lion was dying. Finally, the orcas reappeared with the dead sea lion in pieces in their jaws. They swam away from the boat sounded, disappearing underwater. We had entered the area in the quiet of nature. Now it was we who were quiet, mulling over everything we had seen as the green water quietly purled past the hull, eternal mountains looming in the distance. www.un-cruise.com The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine
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Opening Day By Marianne Scott
Rites of Spring, Seattle Yacht Club’s Opening Day Bustling Seattle is best known for its airplane manufacturing, high-tech industry, the 605-foot Space Needle and Pike Place Market. But on the first Saturday in May each year, recreational boating dominates the town. Hosted since 1920 by the Seattle Yacht Club (SYC), Opening Day attracts yachties from more than 40 clubs who arrive from as far north as Vancouver and throughout Puget Sound. We sailed our 41-foot sailboat, Beyond the Stars, from Victoria, braved the “big” Hiram M. Chittenden Lock built in 1911, and waited for several low bridges to lift their steel jaws before we joined the multi-day celebration. In pre-Christian times, May Day was a joyous fertility rite celebrating the end 22
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of winter and hoping for great harvests. Whole communities exchanged gifts, donned their traditional costumes and danced around decorated maypoles in village squares. The Romans adopted these festivals, which later became popular throughout Europe. Seattle Yacht Club’s Opening Day shows remarkable parallels with these spring customs, although no maidens are sacrificed to agricultural gods, nor is Stravinsky’s Le Sacre du Printemps performed. Instead, club members and throngs of guests prepare for the boating season. Traditional costumes also abound—for official functions, yachties wear white trousers or skirts topped by navy blazers emblazoned by yacht-club crests.
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Again this year, SYC’s Admiral Tyler Ellison, Vice Admiral Michael Carrosino and Admiralette Gina Purdy wore the fanciest togs. Their formal attire includes a military mess jacket, white skirt or trousers, bicorne hat and enough gold braid and epaulettes to outshine Lord Horatio Nelson. Their two small dogs even wore the same hats associated with Napoleon Bonaparte. Earlier in the spring this trio served as SYC’s ambassadors and roved around the Salish Sea inviting other yacht clubs to send members to Seattle’s Opening Day ceremonies. SYC volunteers organize all these activities. The event involves 33 committees; it is the largest line item in the Club’s annual budget and includes dock and boom rental, liability insurance and food functions. The city of Seattle offers no financial assistance but contributes by keeping the Montlake Bridge open for several hours. The Club is extremely proud of its opening day traditions. These ceremonies are held throughout the world, but only Venice’s parade is larger— although Venetians use commercial gondolas to inflate the numbers. “It’s all about making connections and pulling communities together,” said Admiralette Gina Purdy. “We build relationships. Opening Day is a family affair.” The Club rents log booms and anchors them in two straight lines in Lake Washington. Hundreds of local yachts stern tie to these logs. Each boat seems to host whole families, neighbors and friends, coolers filled with libations encourage the holidaymakers to cheer—and sometimes jeer—the passing yachts. In keeping with each year’s theme— Hawaii in 2013—individuals and groups decorate their boats and compete for prizes, while boatless families spread blankets on the shores of Montlake Cut— the canal connecting Lake Union and Lake Washington—and spend hours watching and picnicking, perhaps dreaming of yachts they may someday own. Media helicopters hover
above the parade and cable TV telecasts the festivities. The Opening Day festivities start with the Windermere Rowing Cup competition on Montlake Cut. In 2013, more than 800 rowers from the University of Washington, the Puget Sound area, Canada and Ivy Leaguers from Dartmouth and Cornell Universities strained their muscles to skim over the water. Fans lined the canal’s sloping banks to cheer their favorite team while UW’s purple-clad band oom-pah-pahed encouragement. After the rowing competition ended, the parade of vessels began in Portage Bay, traversed Montlake Cut and wound up in Lake Washington. An 82-foot Coast Guard cutter officially opened the pageant. This year, HMCS Oriole, the Canadian Navy’s sail-training ship, flying a spinnaker, followed, trailed by hundreds of different yachts. Among them were cheerfully decorated sailboats, sleek fiberglass powerboats and vintage yachts displaying the boxy
(4) (1) The Montlake Bridge opens for the Opening Day Parade. (2) Boat and crew in full Hawaiian regalia, celebrating this year’s theme. (3) More than 800 rowers competed in the 2013 Windemere Cup. (4) Aerial shot of the Opening Day Parade. The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine
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designs of yesteryear that require buckets of gleaming varnish and weeks of work to stay in shape. Several clubs performed intricate maneuvers in front of judges hoping to win a coveted trophy. From the crowd, a megaphone order came to us on Beyond the Stars to “do a 360.” We complied and turned pirouettes several times to loud approbation by the onlookers. When all the yachts had passaged through the Cut, the city’s fireboat Chief Seattle, spouting huge roostertails of water, concluded the parade. An Ancient Tradition Not surprisingly, opening day ceremonies grew out British traditions and, at least initially, the love of kings for their megayachts. We might think today’s superyachts are modern inventions, but pleasure craft measuring 100 feet or more have been around since the time of Cleopatra, whose sumptuous barge with gilded stern and purple linen sails wowed the populace and beguiled Anthony. Until the 18th century, yachts were reserved for royalty as a symbol of power, wealth and pomp. When the Industrial Revolution generated great wealth, nouveau riche industrialists joined the sport of kings. The first club to add “yacht” to its name was an offshoot of the “gentleman’s” clubs popular in 19th-century London. Simply called “The Yacht Club,” its members sailed to the Isle of Wight and engaged in ersatz-naval parades. The club became “royal” after George IV joined; steam-powered yachts became acceptable when Queen Victoria insisted on owning one. From her vessel, the Queen reviewed her parading fleet during “Opening Day” and gave birth to a tradition. The development of fiberglass and mass production now allows many of us “commoners” to own a pleasure craft. And that has enabled the SYC to host its annual Opening Day, one that grows each year and delights thousands from around the Salish Sea. 26
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Favorite Destinations from Northwest Boaters
1) A favorite destination for Gig Harbor residents Mike and Allyson Mandick is Shallow Bay in Sucia. They leave their Meridian Sol Desire anchored while they take “great hikes and exciting dinghy rides viewing the islands’ natural stone sculptures.” 2) Victoria cruiser Steve White likes to take his Pacific Trawler, Autumn Breeze II, to Conover Cove, near Ladysmith BC. “It’s a place where I can drop anchor, tie my boat’s stern to shore and watch the sun go down.” 3) “Roche Harbor on San Juan Island is a country club on the water,” said Grant Rauzi, who lives in Seattle. “We point our 38-foot Sea Ray, Irrepressible, to its great guest docks and terrific amenities. The history of the hotel and lime kiln is fascinating.” 4) Trish Lapp sails big distances from Victoria on her Catalina 47, Exodus. She recalls with fondness a visit to Serpentine Island, near Calvert Island’s Hakai. “It’s completely isolated and on a sunny day, it appears tropical. And the trees are gnarled having been shaped by many ocean storms. It’s magic.” 5) Carmen Derricott, Royal Vancouver Yacht Club’s manager, often sails her Catalina 36, Chinook, to Thetis Island’s Telegraph Harbour. “It’s quaint, tranquil and has great hiking trails. And we love taking the dinghy into Clam Bay.” 6)“Ganges on Salt Spring,” said Gig Harbor resident, Linda Anderson, who sails a 42-foot Tayana, Fidalgo. “It’s such a fun, funky place and I love the Saturday Market. It’s a cozy village that has everything a boater could want—hardware, restaurants, supermarket and local art.” 7) Tacoma’s Steve and Lisa Tank steer their CHB Europa Sedan 42, Island Song, toward Victoria whenever they can. “There are so many things to do, walks around the harbor with all those buskers and artists, the Maritime Museum, great food, the harbor ferry—it’s a great landing place.” 8) The Broughtons’ Cordero Bay near Blind Bay is Redmond native Tom
Isaacson’s best place. He and his family cruise on a McQueen 47-foot trawler, Callaloo. “It’s a unique spot, very private. And at low tide, we can watch the seals park their blubber on the rocks.”
9) When Gwen Ellison leaves Seattle in her Grand Banks 36, Kama Aina, she heads for Todd Inlet, part of Saanich Inlet. “It’s quiet and it’s one great place to view the Milky Way. And it’s the backdoor to Butchart Gardens, its beautiful blooms and astonishing fireworks.” 10) Isabel Bay off Malaspina Strait is Randy Holbrook’s treasured destination. “I take my family in our Morris 48-foot sailboat, Plein Air, from Seattle to that tranquil spot,” he explained. “It’s got the Laughing Oyster restaurant; it’s swimmable and offers good fishing.” The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine
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A Royal BC Museum Exhibit in Victoria
Race to the South Pole By Vincent Hagel 28
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This year, through October 14, the Royal British Columbia Museum in Victoria presents an historical exhibit entitled The Race to the South Pole. The American Museum of Natural History designed this exhibit in collaboration with the Royal British Columbia Museum and the Musée des Confluence in Lyon, France. In addition, The Royal BC Museum conservator, Jan Stefans, lived in the Antarctic for two six months periods, conserving and preserving Scott’s hut, which remains there as it was one hundred years ago. One of the cornerstones of the exhibit, a replica of that hut, contrasted with Amundsen’s ice cave workshop, illustrates the
philosophies of these two men with different motives and means, but with the same opportunity. How they differed, once they arrived, is this exhibit’s theme. Born in 1868 of a seafaring British family, Robert Falcon Scott first put to sea at age thirteen as a Royal Navy cadet. Eighteen years later, hoping to expand his horizons, Scott applied to lead an expedition to explore Antarctica, though, as he later wrote, “… I had no predilection for polar exploration.” On the other hand, Norwegian Roald Amundsen dreamed of polar exploration as a teen-ager. At the age of 34, he had become the first man to
captain a ship through the Northwest Passage. For him, to reach the North Pole was the ultimate adventure, but the South Pole would have to do. Your visit takes you there barely a century later. Entering the exhibit, visitors receive a “character card” which allows them to follow an original explorer as he makes his way across the Antarctic. The character will be a man from either expedition. Progressing through the exhibit, Scott’s and Amundsen’s pocket watches are on display, as is a violin belonging to one of the Norwegians. Next is the replica of a portion of Scott’s fifty-foot-long hut. This de-
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Amundsen’s men dug an extensive network of tunnels under the snow, including a bathroom and even a sauna. This re-creation shows an underground workroom where his crew was able to work on gear away from the extreme winter cold. © AMNH/D. Finnin piction of the British living quarters best contrasts Scott and Amundsen’s means to an end. Scott’s sixty-four men had sailed with tons and tons of equipment and supplies. These included motorized sledges (welcome to the 20th century!), one of which broke through the ice and sank as Scott prepared camp. He also brought 19 ponies, nine of which were lost on the first day in Antarctica. Some of the wooden hut’s walls are also visible. These were constructed of crates of supplies, including British biscuits, meat products, and many other goods. Scott’s expedition was very expensive, indeed. A few feet away, Amundsen’s quarters appear very different; a rectangular ice cave, like those carved out of the Antarctic’s permanent ice. The cave in the exhibit is a workshop where the Norwegians worked on sledges, shaved skis to reduce their 30
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weight and used many other tools to perform maintenance. Only eighteen men accompanied the Norwegian and their food was also much more nutritious and digestible than the British rations. Their clothing was designed after the Inuit clothing Amundsen had studied while living among the Eskimos during his trip through the Northwest Passage. Three years in the Arctic had taught him much about survival. Rather than motorized sledges, dogs drew theirs, one of which is on display and the number of dogs was calculated to eventually, toward the end of the journey, provide food for the surviving dogs and men. Amundsen suffered no illusions about the dangers they would face. Though both men had personal motives for this expedition, Scott had broader motives—scientific goals that included biological, geological and meteorological tracking and
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measuring. This, of course, required more men and equipment. Twelve of Scott’s crew were scientists whose experiments are detailed at various stations of the exhibit. During the winter of 1911, three of these scientists journeyed in search of Emperor Penguin eggs. The penguins in the exhibit are rather imposing. This section includes numerous original artifacts from both expeditions, including a surviving Norwegian sledge, Amundsen’s chronometer, his shotgun, goggles, a compass and even pony snowshoes from Scott’s team. At the heart of the exhibit is a small dome with a panoramic photograph of the icy region surrounding the South Pole. Here, too are Amundsen’s binoculars inscribed with the date of his arrival, December 14, 1911. From his base camp, Amundsen had taken five men, four sledges and fifty-two dogs—some to pull, some The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine
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(1) Scott on skis near Cape Evans, 1911. © AMNH Library (2) Sledges were crucial means of transport for polar explorers and carried the men’s food, fuel, clothing, and sleeping bags. © AMNH/D. Finnin (3) This prefabricated igloo is a light and aerodynamic portable hut nicknamed “The Apple”. © AMNH/D. Finni (4) Unlike Amundsen, who used dogs exclusively, Scott’s exploration and scientific teams usually man-hauled their heavily-laden sledges, often over great distances. © Bettmann/CORBIS (5) Amundsen’s Chronometer: Amundsen and his men brought nine chronometers—very accurate timepieces—with them, including six watches like the one shown.. © AMNH/C. Chesek
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to rest, and some to become food. Their rations equaled about 4,700 calories per day, which is about what they burned. All five returned alive. In the same dome is a replica of the Norwegian’s black tent and a photograph of Scott and his team, standing forlorn, perhaps even devastated, next to that tent—a month too late. From his base camp, Scott had taken 16 men, 12 sledges, two motor sledges, 22 dogs and enough food to provide 4,600 calories per day, per man. Unfortunately, they burned about 7,000 calories per day. Only five men would make the final push to the pole. None would return alive. This dome gives a sense of the isolation they must have felt. Beyond the dome lies the final portion of the exhibit, which features a contemporary igloo used by Antarctic scientists today. It is equipped for survival in the world’s harshest environment. Here, too, are interactive stations, informative for the young and old alike. Also on display are artifacts from Scott and Kathleen O’Reilly, a woman he met while he lived in Victoria in 1890. A very social young woman, she had kept her dance cards, with Scott’s name appearing several times, especially for the waltzes. She also kept letters from him. Scott’s dog handler, Cecil Meares, had to leave Antarctica before the final trek began. He eventually settled in Victoria and several of his possessions have been donated to the museum. Most important among these is Meares’ pennant, which he flew on his sledge. Each member of Scott’s entourage had a personal pennant and a rare few survived. This one is part of the museum’s permanent archival collection. The Royal British Columbia Museum offers a rare opportunity to see artifacts from one of the world’s great explorations while you explore a bit of Victoria. www. royalbcmuseum.bc.ca The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine
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Hawk and Suzy Pingree are the driving force behind the San Juan Islands Distillery
San Juan Island Distillery and Westcott Bay Cider “Fire in the hole!” rings out in the misty afternoon, followed by a loud bang blasting from the miniature cannon manned by Hawk Pingree, one of the three partners of the San Juan Islands Distillery in Roche Harbor. A round of applause follows as the proud buyer of a bottle of Spy Hop Harvest Select Navy Strength Gin swipes his credit card in the Square card reader, a big grin on his face. There’s a story behind that particular gin, just as there are stories behind every bottle of spirits and cider at the Distillery and Westcott Bay Cider. With climate conditions identical 34
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Passion Distilled By Susan Colby
to those of Normandy, France where farmers produce traditional hard ciders and the fine French brandy called Calvados, the island is a natural home for the burgeoning boutique hard cider industry. Hard cider, called cider in Britain, cidre in France and sidre in Spain, had all but disappeared from the American beverage scene until a little over 15 years ago. Since then, several ciderworks, including Westcott Bay Cider, which is the second oldest cidery in Washington, have resurrected the fine art and the general public is slowly becoming aware of this refreshing alternative to beer.
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When Suzy and Hawk, retired communications professors from Wisconsin visited France on sabbatical, they developed a taste for Calvados, a mature apple brandy. While visiting Suzy’s sister on San Juan Island several years ago, they happened upon Richard Anderson’s apple orchard and immediately said, “Why isn’t that guy making apple brandy with those beautiful apples?” And the rest, as they say, is history. Calvados is the reason behind the distillery, but brandy needs a minimum of three years to age. The first batch is being carefully taste-tested periodically The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine
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by the partners and still has at least a year to go. From the start, Suzy and Hawk were impatient and decided that while they waited for their brandy to mature, they would turn their hands to other spirits, the primary one being an apple alcohol-based gin. The distillery and cidery is in a fair sized, unassuming barn less than a mile from Roche Harbor, within easy walking distance for yachties. Because it is both a distillery and a cidery, areas must be separated from one another. In one area are the large stainless cider fermentation tanks and apple press, in another the 55-gallon oak aging barrels. In yet another are the showstoppers – a 200-liter hand-beaten copper Adolf Adrian pot still and a 30-liter copper Portuguese pot still. What is most striking about these spirits and cider is the passion and care that goes into them. Hawk is a fountain of knowledge about the technical processes used in brewing both the ciders and the gin. A true educator, he imparts his knowledge to visitors in ways that are fun and easy to understand. Explaining why a cider is dry, he said, “It’s dead dry because the yeast ate all the sugar.” And even though he gives his talks repeatedly, his passion for the process doesn’t dwindle. Suzy is the lead distiller and her creativity is unlimited. “We use the small still for our seasonal gins,” Suzy said, as these micro-batches allow her to try out different combinations and flavors. Her enthusiasm bubbles up as she describes the flavors and the joy she gets from creating her gins. She starts with the traditional juniper berry (or it wouldn’t be gin!), cardamom, star anise, orris root, lemon peel. But that’s where the similarities to commercially-produced gins end. For the Pingrees, it’s all about local. The addition of locally-grown and foraged botanicals that reflect the essence of the Island is what makes these gins stand apart. Surprising additions include Madrone bark for a spicy touch, lavender from Pelindaba Lavender Farm 36
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JAMAL CHArTErS
From her graceful profile to her warm and inviting interior, the 75’ M.V. Jamal is indeed a legend in the Pacific Northwest charter world. Her capabilities combined with unparalleled professional crew and exquisite cuisine place her above the crowd. She boasts distinctive accommodations for eight in two king and two twin staterooms each with en suite heads. The tastefully appointed main salon and sky lounge feature every amenity one would expect.
For a day, a week, or a month. Experience quiet privacy, water sports, quaint shoreside villages, and breathtaking beauty. From South Sound to Southeast Alaska – name your destination! For that special occasion or, quite simply, to celebrate life.
Dare to live your dream!
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425.823.4147 | 206.310.3310 | 206.605.8484
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and the small wild roses that in spring, festoon the local roads with color. Kari Kosti, a local Islander who hand-crafts herbal tonics and seaweed healers, works alongside Suzy. They warn that when they are driving around the island, they are not looking at the roads but are looking off into the forests for new botanicals for the next Spy Hop Gin seasonal creation. Summertime is berry season and Suzy adds sweet thimbleberries or foraged elderflowers. In fall, plump, purple salal berries add a citrusy note on the finish. In winter, the Spy Hop Gin is 38
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barrel-aged in oak barrels from Chateau St. Michelle and in spring, you can expect a bright green note from stinging nettles. On a recent visit to the Distillery and Tasting Room, which is open most weekend afternoons, the tasting areas were staffed by not only the elder Pingrees, but also their two daughters and sons-in-law, who all pitch in to help. Both daughters live on the “mainland” and spend most weekends on the Island. In between directing the hoards of visitors to the self-guided tour around the plant, Haley says her parents have always been creative and avows, “I will never be as cool as my parents.” And sister Paisley agrees. In the cider tasting area, Haley’s husband Peter leads a group of guests through a tasting, describing the flavors and how to best pair the drier or sweeter ciders with food. For instance, he suggests drinking the very dry cider with oily foods like salmon or rich cheese and pairing the slightly sweet one with spicy foods. At a different tasting station, Hawk describes the types of apples - vintage apples with wonderful names like Kingston Black, Yarlington Mill, Dabinett and Sweet Coppin. Then suggests a short walk down the road to see Richard’s orchard overlooking Westcott Bay, where it all started. About those stories mentioned earlier? Take a trip to Roche Harbor and visit the tasting room. There’s no charge; “that would be unfriendly.” You will be regaled with stories and come away with an in-depth understanding of distilling and brewing, provided by two passionate educators. www.sanjuanislanddistillery.com Celebrating our 28th Year
If you like this article go to www.harborsmagazine.com for a video on the Sea Cider Farm and Ciderhouse in British Columbia.
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For Reservations Call (866) 435-9524 • www.KenmoreAir.com
Topographical data by True North GIS. Map ©2009 Kenmore Air Harbor, Inc. All rights reserved.
Olympia to Nanaimo
South Zone Kenmore Air Destination Map
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For Reservations Call (866) 435-9524 • www.KenmoreAir.com
Topographical data by True North GIS. Map ©2009 Kenmore Air Harbor, Inc. All rights reserved.
Nanaimo to Port Hardy
North Zone
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Waterfront Luxury Waterfront Properties
Bauhaus-Inspired Kirkland Waterfront Home
Aerial view. (Inset) Homeowner, Per Nielsen.
The Kirkland, Washington home of Per Nielsen is a testament to his sense of order and organization, his Danish heritage, his respect of the Bauhaus philosophy and his love of the outdoors and spectacular views of Lake Washington. The waterfront house takes advantage of its southern and western exposures through large windows, a “view-through-walls” floor plan, minimalistic landscaping between the home and lake – and a complete lack of window coverings, which he describes as “too compressing.” In the Bauhaus tradition of “functionality over features,” the home is
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By Russ Young
A special real estate section of unique waterfront homes. The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine
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dramatically simple and tastefully understated, with the same wideplank oak flooring, oak cabinetry, granite countertops and color scheme throughout. A former Microsoft project manager who grew up outside Copenhagen, Nielsen describes himself as a “very involved client” of Seattle-area architect Susan Busch, with whom he collaborated on the design of the 3,470 square-foot waterfront house. In 1998, Nielsen defined his requirements for the home, which was a total remodel of one of several houses in a former family compound. He accompanied his written requirements with 29 photographs of features and details that he had seen in other homes and that he wished to have incorporated into his own. After interviewing five architects, he selected Busch, who Nielsen describes as an excellent listener willing to engage in a dialog with her client. The project took two years to complete. Apparently, the connection and collaboration between the two is mutual; he and Busch have since collaborated on another remodeled home, located on a nearby hillside. The main floor demonstrates Nielsen’s determination to feel connected to the 22 mile-long lake. Painted steel posts were used to minimize the need for load-bearing walls, allowing a virtually uninterrupted view from the atrium front entryway through the living room. Similarly, his home-office space is defined by a low wraparound counter with cabinets below, allowing him to enjoy the southern and western views through the adjacent great room. The great room features distinctively different fireplaces at both ends. To the south is a freestanding Danish woodburning unit; to the north, a unique under-counter gas fireplace that minimally divides the living room and great room. Nielsen’s kitchen, while seemingly
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Thomas Fragnoli Construction Seattle 206.420.7940
San Juan Islands 360.303.9969
New Construction Remodels Service & Maintenance
www.thomasfragnoli.com
Sunrise to Sunset ~
Commanding in stature, yet warm and inviting in attitude, this signature property on San Juan Island is uniquely sited to span a peninsula. Designed for comfort and island-style entertaining, the estate consists of a gracious 8,421 sq. ft. main house with westerly views over Mitchell Bay to the Straits and Olympics, stylish east facing guest house, delightful gardens, and amazing protected deep water dock. Wildly, ridiculously, divinely beautiful! #219775 $2,785,000.
Kathryn Farron | t 360.378.8849 | f 360.230.2313 kfarron@rockisland.com | www.kathrynfarron.com
estates to beach cottages any style always with great warmth Orcas Island, WA: (360) 376-3634 Scottsdale, AZ: (480) 994-4887 www.billispringer.com
Windermere Real Estate | San Juan Island | 50 Spring Street | PO Box 488 | Friday Harbor, WA 98250
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ED HANDJA Personal Real Estate Corporation & SHELLEY MCKAY Your BC OCEANFRONT TEAM Specializing in Unique Coastal Real Estate in British Columbia
A special real estate section of unique waterfront homes. 48
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Haida Gwaii, Graham Island: Tlell acreage. 46acres, approx. 2400ft of oceanfront and 3000ft of riverfront on the Tlell River. Electrical service, phone service, drilled well. Modest cottage, workshop. Versatile, unique property, lots of options. $850,000
Telegraph Cove Oceanfront Home: Exceptional 5-bedroom oceanfront residence, expansive gourmet kitchen, wonderful detailing through-out. Panoramic ocean and coastal views, expansive deck, private bay. Detached shop with guest suite. $998,500
Open Bay, Quadra Island: Beautiful 106 oceanfront acres, very private setting. 2000ft varied shoreline, views across Sutil Channel, fully forested. 2200sqft 3bdrm west coast-style residence, expansive ocean side decks. Simply outstanding! $1,200,000
Campbell River Oceanfront: Premier 1.8 acres, 260ft low-bank waterfront, constantly changing marine views. 2000sqft oceanfront bungalow, mature landscaping. Build a new home on the ridge with magnificent views, keep the original as a guest home. $1,325,000
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Central Vancouver Island: Large Riverfront Acreage in Merville. 95 acres on the Tsolum River at the end of a no-through road. Merchantable timber. Good topography, power. Residential estate/hobby farm/ agricultural possibilities! $645,000
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Per’s favorite room to relax with winding staircase to a private exercise and yoga room.
Harlock Island: .92 acre private island located minutes from Canoe Cove Marina and amenities. This unique little island has electrical service, licensed protected moorage and diverse natural features such as Garry Oaks and rock formations. $645,000
Northern Shores Lodge, Haida Gwaii: Full-service accommodation business in Sandspit. 1.7 acres semi-oceanfront. 12,000sqft structure, with 16 two-room suites, managers’ accommodation and catering kitchen. Just 5 minutes to harbour or airport. $700,000
Round Island, Southern Gulf Islands: 7.5 acre private island, undeveloped, unspoiled natural beauty, mix of indigenous coastal trees and vegetation. Diverse shoreline - walk-on beachfront, unusual rock formations. Create your Island escape. $437,750
Vancouver Island, Upper Campbell Lake: Ultimate lakefront retreat. 4.58-acre property, extensive lakefront, substantial 1300sqft main residence. amazing views, nicely forested. Plus 1 room cabin and dock facilities. Road access and totally private. $498,000
Luxury Campbell River Oceanfront: Experience excellence! Beautifully detailed custom-built, 4600sqft oceanfront home, over-height ceilings through-out, separate guest suite. Aquatic centre with indoor pool, hot tub, sauna and wet bar. $1,299,000
Minstrel Island, BC Central Coast: Oceanfront acreages with wells, internal road access, onsite improvements and spectacular marine views, on the southern tip of the island. Zoning permits two dwellings. Access to Knight Inlet. $54,000 - $170,000
Vancouver Island Saratoga Beach: Stunning oceanfront properties just 20 minutes from the Comox Airport. Driftwood Estates, an exclusive oceanfront development, offers privacy, a beautiful walk-on beach and marina facilities and amenities nearby. $479,000ea
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• Great Choices for Recreational Use & Year-round Living • www.bcoceanfront.com • Great Choices for Recreational Use & Year-round Living •
Master bedroom with deck overlooking view of Lake Washington.
• Great Choices for Recreational Use & Year-round Living • www.bcoceanfront.com • Great Choices for Recreational Use & Year-round Living •
Ed: 250.287.0011 Shelley: 250.830.4435 Toll Free: 800.563.7322 edhandja@bcoceanfront.com & shelleymckay@bcoceanfront.com
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Hurr y up and Relax Paul Le Baron | Owner Broker #1 Spring Street PO Box 777 Friday Harbor, WA 98250
360.378.7646 cell www.paullebaron.com paul@sanjuans.com Each Office is Independently Owned and Operated.
dominated by a large granite-topped island, was designed to accommodate his requirement to be able to move around easily, as well as to accommodate party guests, who as he points out “always gather in the kitchen.” His use of the same light granite for counters throughout the house further reflects his simple, functional approach to design. He points out that flecks in the stone match the paint used on the steel posts and the open staircase that leads to the second floor. Nielsen says the colors for the steel and the walls match those of a snail he observed when visiting the U.S. Virgin Islands. Large glass doors lead from the great room to a covered deck, which looks across Japanese-inspired landscaping to the lake. Much like his approach to the design of the home itself, Nielsen provided his requirements to a landscape-design firm that drew up the plans. But in a change of heart, he purchased the plans and did the installation himself, with the help of his son, 50
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friends and a rental Bobcat. Ironically, the owner of 60 feet of prime waterfront and a dock does not own a boat or particularly enjoy boating. A former competitive swimmer, and dedicated runner and cyclist, he’s spent time in pools training for triathlons, but Nielsen admits he finds little joy in swimming in the lake for recreation or refreshment. Upstairs, he identifies a space outside the master suite as “his favorite place” in the house, but says he doesn’t really know how else to label it. However, he does offer to look at the blueprints to see what Busch called it. The name aside, it features an impressive view to the south, with a glass door leading to a small deck. An adjacent room includes a steel spiral staircase, which is the only “relic” of the original house. It leads to a small turret, comprising an exercise/ reading room with the same spectacular views to the west and south. The master suite is a reminder that
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Nielsen does not have a single curtain or shade on any of his home’s seemingly countless windows, offering further testament to his near-obsession with staying connected to the outdoors. Occasional early-morning visits by the University of Washington’s rowing teams or a view of a Kenmore Air seaplane landing on Lake Washington underscore the variety of activities that he can witness on this stretch of the 34 square-mile ribbon lake. The master bathroom is what he describes as his “favorite design in the house.” It is spacious, functional and – of course – includes priceless views of the lake from both the jetted tub and shower. Nielsen’s original requirements for his Holmes Point home were based largely on two simple principles: to be open toward the water and closed toward the neighboring homes. One visit to the house says that the mission was not only accomplished, but with memorable results.
ED HANDJA Personal Real Estate Corporation & SHELLEY MCKAY
Sturt Island: Master the Art of Independent Living on your own Private Island! 85.6 acre island in Surge Narrows, Discovery Islands. Self-sufficient island estate with magnificent main residence, amazing use of natural materials through-out all buildings, generous living spaces, expansive decks. Separate guest buildings, outbuildings, gardens, 60ft dock and more. This is a magical property that offers luxurious living in a spectacular natural setting. $5,400,000 Ed: 250.287.0011 Shelley: 250.830.4435 Toll Free: 800.563.7322 edhandja@bcoceanfront.com shelleymckay@bcoceanfront.com
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SLU
South Lake Union
Neighborhood Happenings
Seattle’s South Lake Union Neighborhood, home of Kenmore Air’s Seaplane Terminal.
Duke Moscrip’s Famous Chowder House By Rebecca Agiewich What started as a lark changed the face, and name, of Duke’s Bar and Grill. Back in the mid-eighties, Duke Moscrip and the then chef from Duke’s Bar and Grill entered the Seattle Chowder Cook Off and went on to win it by a landslide, three years in a row. Surprisingly, at that time, they didn’t even have a chowder on the 52
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menu. Eventually, contest officials politely asked Moscrip to retire so that others could have a shot. “My grandfather made chowder in New England and he was a great cook,” says Moscrip “I thought, let’s give New England clam chowder a try.” It wasn’t until the third year of the Cook Off that Moscrip’s now-famous
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chowder made it onto the Duke’s menu. “The chef said it was way too much work,” says Moscrip. Concocting the creamy chowder became second nature, and it eventually landed a starring role on the menu and the marquee. Duke’s Bar and Grill became Duke’s Chowder House, with six locations around Puget Sound and five different chowder recipes.
One of the Best Decks in the City : Fly into Seattle on Kenmore Air, and you’re just a mile from Duke’s South Lake Union location, with its sought-after deck. “This is one of the best decks in the city,” says Moscrip. “On a sunny summer day, our business quadruples.” And no wonder. The deck offers up ringside seats to Lake Union’s glories. The scenic hustle and bustle of boats and seaplanes, yachts bobbing quietly at anchor. And let’s not forget those pink and orange sunsets that streak the summer sky. Combine all that with a delicious happy-hour “Duketail,” such as the Killer Cherry Mojito or the Blueberry Lemon Drop, paired with the Fresh Dungeness Crab Slider and you’ve got the makings of a perfect Seattle evening.
Bustling South Lake Union: Duke’s South Lake Union is a convenient lunch spot too. “It’s right in the middle of the city, and a great place for people to meet for events,” says Moscrip. “There are a lot of business people around, and a lot more things going on here now.” He’s referring to the growth of South Lake Union, fueled by the relocation of Amazon’s headquarters there in 2010. The neighborhood is bursting with new businesses, restaurants and residences. Duke’s has been in South Lake Union since 1989 and holds its own among the profusion of hip new eateries in this once-sleepy neighborhood. You don’t flourish for decades in the Seattle restaurant world unless you’ve got great business smarts, combined with top-notch food and consummate The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine
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Duke’s Award Winning Clam Chowder Yield: 1 Quart 1 lb IQF (individually quick frozen) Surf Clams (all natural) 1 ½ c clam juice 1 oz clam base 4 strips bacon (nitrite free) 4 oz (1 stick) butter 2 c diced celery 2 c diced onion ½ tsp fresh basil 1 tsp dried thyme ½ tsp dried marjoram ½ tsp black pepper 2 c diced red potatoes ½ oz garlic 2 tbsp dried parsley 1 tbsp fresh dill 4 oz flour 1 ½ c milk 2 ½ c heavy cream Blanch diced fresh baby red potatoes in boiling water (until tender). Cool and hold separately. Cook bacon in heavy bottomed saucepan until the bacon begins to crisp. Add butter, onions, celery. Saute until tender. Add flour, lower heat and cook for 7 minutes at 165 degrees. Mix and dissolve all clam base with clam juice separately. Add clam juice and base mixture. Add dairy products. Add herbs. Heat until almost boiling (185 degrees), blending with a wire whip. Add blanched red potatoes and clams. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes at 185 degrees. Cool quickly and serve immediately. Taste chowder and realize you have just made the best Clam Chowder on the planet. Pour yourself a great tasting glass of wine. You deserve it. Enjoy.
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customer service. Moscrip says his emphasis on the customer is key to the success of Duke’s. “One of the secrets is my interest in the guest first,” he says. Equally important is the respect he gives to his staff. Many of Duke’s employees stick around for a long time because it’s a good place to work. “Our ‘new chef ’ has been here for six years now,” he says jokingly. A happy staff makes for a welcoming and relaxed dining experience. At the Duke’s in South Lake Union, everyone seems to feel at home—from families wanting a fun night out to tourists sampling some of the best views and freshest seafood Seattle has to offer. Chowders and Wild Salmon Shine: So what to eat at Duke’s? Moscrip, of course, recommends one of the five chowders. You can’t go wrong with the clam chowder, seasoned to creamy perfection with parsley, marjoram, and dill, but the other chowders are tempting too. (Lobster Pernod Chowder, anyone?) Moscrip is also passionate about the wild Copper River Coho salmon he serves in a myriad of ways. The Chipotle Salmon Sandwich, he says, is “to die for.” You will never find farmed salmon on the menu and Moscrip personally heads to Alaska each year to oversee the fishing and processing of much of the restaurant’s seafood. Natural foods and sustainability are cornerstones of the Duke’s philosophy. “I believe that we have to be taking care of the planet. It doesn’t inconvenience us that much; buying things that are natural just make sense to me. I like the real thing.” So, it seems, do the Puget Sounders who’ve been flocking to his restaurants for years now with no sign of stopping. As one satisfied reviewer recently wrote on Yelp, “Duke’s anywhere is ALWAYS good.” www.dukeschowderhouse.com The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine
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Strait to Puget Pinks By Terry W. Sheely
The Smallest of the Pacific Salmon
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She has a two-handed clench on the bucking rod, an expression that blinks from 9-year-old thrill to terror and in the next few frenzied minutes, she’ll stare in awe, mouth open, giggling, at her first salmon, dripping wet and wrapped in the blue mesh of her dad’s landing net. The fish is six-pounds, maybe more, small tight scales, a faint pink glowing on its flanks. She touches it tentatively, feels the cold of Puget Sound radiating from solid muscles, jumps when it flops and grins. And grins! That image from a couple of years ago is a warm spot in my memory and a big part of the reason why I love pink salmon and the odd-numbered years in which they return. In alternating years, Juan de Fuca Strait shoots a monster surge of salmon out of the Pacific and into Puget Sound. 2013 is that year. From July to September, saltwater from Sekiu to Seattle, Anacortes to Anderson Island
will morph into clusters of smokin’ hot salmon fishing destinations. That these salmon are pinks, aka humpies, and at 4 to 12 pounds, the smallest of our five Pacific salmon is only more reason to celebrate. The size is a perfect gateway to hooking beginners on salmon addiction. Pinks are scrappy, aggressive fish, flooding in by the millions, are a hoot when played and caught with trout rods, swim close to the surface in undulating packs marked by leapers, rollers and floppers, will make you a hero at the dinner table (if the fish is respectfully handled) and predictably will tickle kids, neophytes and sometimes-salmon seekers well, pink. Pinks Are a Digital Fleece-Age Appreciation Back in the Kodachrome flannel shirt era, when Puget Sound kings were king and silvers were thick, the smaller pinks were derided as lesser fish. There are still
a few king/coho purists, hold-outs who refuse to respect the Sound’s new summer salmon célèbre, but their salmon snobbery and priggish allegiance to day’s-gone-by are fading along with the era of swarming chinook and silvers. This is the summer of pinks, if for no other reason than overwhelming numbers. Consider: Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife Department (WDFW) is predicting a Puget Sound run of 6.2 million pinks this year and that does not include the 9 million more that also migrate the Strait, but turn left through the San Juan and Gulf Islands toward mainland spawning rivers falling off the coast of southern British Columbia. If you need more incentive, consider convenience. We won’t have to travel to fish for humpies, they’re coming to us. Most Puget Sound pinks are zeroing in on population centers: Seattle, Tacoma, Everett, Anacortes and to get there, they must first run a gauntlet
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(Top to Bottom) Trolling for pinks off Everett. Comparison: Pink, Coho, King. Wading from shore can be productive in many areas of the Sound.
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of historic salmon fishing hot spots— Sekiu, Port Angeles, Port Townsend, Hood Canal, Point No Point, and Possession Bar among others. When the pink surge hits these Juan de Fuca fishing ports, there will waiting lines at the cleaning tables and coolers packed with cold fillets. Inland, at the terminal end, Seattle’s wet metropolitan doorstep is expected to be ground zero for urban salmon with more than 1.3 million pinks predicted to crowd into the wavering shadow of skyscrapers on Elliott Bay. They will tease the pier casters in West Seattle and load the Duwamish/Green River from Harbor Island 30 miles upriver to the Highway 18 bridge east of Auburn. Everett and Mukilteo will be crammed with humpy hunters trolling in everything from 8-foot dinghies to 60-foot yachts to pick limits of four out of the 1.2 million pinks poking north toward the Skagit River and another million humpies nosing into the Snohomish/Skykomish rivers. A cove just south of Mukilteo historically becomes so crammed with pink salmon that it’s identified as “Humpy Hollow.” To the south Des Moines, Redondo and Tacoma anglers are banking on a prediction of 1.2 million swarming into Commencement Bay for the Puyallup River. Another and entirely new run of three-quarter million pinks is predicted to continue south from Vashon Island, around Point Defiance through The Tacoma Narrows past Gig Harbor and Steilacoom to funnel up the Nisqually River. To understand how rapidly pink salmon are taking over odd-year Puget Sound summers, consider that a little more than a decade ago, there was no significant runs of pinks in the Green or Puyallup and during the last run just two years ago, WDFW didn’t forecast any Nisqually River pinks. Twenty-four months later, they expect three-quarters of a million salmon in that South Sound river.
While we chuckle at the one explanation given by a WDFW biologist for the pink salmon eruption, “we don’t manage them,” there is growing evidence that pinks are filling in where falling numbers of steelhead and king salmon have left habitat gaps in natal rivers. To grasp how dominant pink salmon have become and how important to the odd-year Puget Sound fishery, compare those 6.2 million predicted pinks with WDFW’s chinook forecast for just 264,000 Puget Sound summerfall kings and 880,000 coho. Add it up and all of the summer king and silver salmon returning to Puget Sound this year will be less than just the one run of pinks coming to south Seattle’s Green River. This means that roughly five pinks are available for us to catch for every king and coho combined, which is why a lot of new anglers are discovering that catching plentiful pinks is more fun than not catching needle-in-a-haystack kings and silvers. And there’s a freezer-loading bonus: Because there is no shortage of pinks in most fishing areas, anglers are allowed to catch four pinks a day—twice the normal salmon limit. The meat is paler than the bright red of silvers and orange of kings, a bit delicate, requiring respectful handling. Immediately bleed and eviscerate the catch, wash off the blood and membrane and stash the fish in a chilly cooler. Never let cleaned humpies swash around in melted ice water while you continue fishing. Chill it with freezer packs, bury it in salt slurry or bag it and suspend above melted ice water. Whatever you do, don’t stash this delicate dinner centerpiece where the sun can pre-bake it. Bleed it, clean it and chill it and you’ll have dinner fit for the in-laws. Preparing for the Flood The first blush of pink action starts in July in western Juan de Fuca Strait, lighting up the small boat sport-fishing
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fleet at Sekiu and progressing steadily east, delivering a flood of pink salmon within range of boat trollers and shore casters. By September, schools will have encroached on every salmon nook in southern Hood Canal and the east side of Puget Sound. Boaters will be trolling daylight to dark and boatless anglers will be catching pinks by wading and casting from shallow beaches breakwater vantage points, and public piers at Edmonds, Mukilteo, Everett, West Seattle, Dash Point, and Tacoma. Late July into late-August is the prime season, with the Sound full of salmon acclimating before moving upriver into freshwater spawning areas. Pinks are gregarious creatures, traveling in large schools, often visible just under the surface and where you catch one—there are always more. And unless you’re a total maverick, you’ll catch them on a small pink lure. Pinks love to attack pink—that’s the ironic rule. Several local tackle manufacturers produce kits and lures specifically for the fishery. Silver Horde in Lynnwood, offers what they call a Pink 60
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Katcher Kit built around a white 8-inch flasher, 16-inch leader and a micro-sized hot-pink squid that they recommend trolling 15 feet behind a downrigger ball, 20 to70 feet deep.. Dick Figgins, the pony-tailed freespirit who owns Dick Nite company in Lake Stevens, has chalked up multiple state record pinks with his hot pink, thin-blade trolling spoons. Everett-based charter boat captain Gary Krein makes a living trolling Humpy Hollow with 11-inch Hot Spot flashers brightened with either pink or green Mylar strips, towing pink minisquid tied to red 2/0 barbless hooks on 20 and 24 inch leaders. To get the most fight out of these small salmon, select light to medium weight downrigger rods—8 to 9 feet long, with fairly soft action that will compensate for the salmon’s infamously soft mouth. Light saltwater and medium freshwater reels work fine. These fish make short, quick runs that won’t test a drag or spool capacity. I’ll go with the lightest line my flasher will handle without breaking—10 to 15 pound test is fine and there’s no overwhelming reason to invest in expensive low-viz Fluo-
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rocarbon. These fish aren’t leader shy. Monofilament is more forgiving than braid, an elasticity factor that’s a bonus when playing soft-mouth salmon. Tie in 16 to 20 inches of 15-pound monofilament for a leader, add a small F15 pink plastic squid, 11-inch size 0 white flasher or dodger with chartreuse or hot pink Mylar reflective strips, red 2/0 hooks. Don’t bother stopping at the bait store. While humpies will nail herring when they first move in, especially in the Sekiu-Port Angeles zone, bait’s a waste. These fish are just as quick to clobber plastic hoochies as fresh herring, although I’ve found it doesn’t hurt to smear the plastic or wobbling spoon with power bait or krill-flavored Smelly Jelly. It’s rare for a destination fish story to target the entire Puget Sound and Juan de Fuca Strait—but that’s the destination when 15 million pink salmon carpet the saltwater from Vancouver to Olympia. Glance out the passenger window of your Kenmore Air flight from July to September; if you’re over saltwater you’ll be looking at is the hottest little salmon fishery in the Northwest.
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Tsehum Harbour, 2320 Harbour Road, Sidney, BC, V8L 2P6 Tel: 250–656–1138 | Fax: 250–656–0182 | email: info@vanislemarina.com www.vanislemarina.com The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine
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certificate in 1987. “I’ve been a pilot ever since. If it weren’t for my dad’s instruction and leadership, I would not be the pilot I am today,” she said. Even after earning her Bachelors in Meteorology from the University of North Carolina Asheville, she continued flying.
She’s a woman, but when Michelle Rohter climbs into a seaplane, she is a pilot first. As Kenmore Air’s first female pilot, she gets some curious looks from passengers, but she simply smiles and says, “The stripes don’t mean flight attendant.” Michelle loves to fly and can’t get enough of it. “I really enjoy flying. If I won the lottery, I’d still be doing it. It just wouldn’t be my livelihood,” she said.
Wheels to Floats Becoming a seaplane pilot wasn’t the plan. “I had over 1,000 hours of wheel time, so it didn’t make a lot of sense,” Michelle said. Moving to the West Coast was more about a change of scenery than trying out a new plane. Michelle said: “I was looking for anywhere with mountains. I love Colorado and Wyoming. I never thought about Seattle, but in ’97, there were only a handful of places hiring flight instructors. Snohomish Flying Service was one and so I moved here.” When a friend took her for a seaplane ride-along at Kenmore, she loved it. Burnt out on flight instruction, she inquired about flying on Kenmore’s crew. To get her stripes, she’d have to pay her dues. “I was told I would work the line pumping gas. And then, maybe the next year, they’d consider me for flight instruction,” Michelle said. By 1998, she was a Kenmore Air flight instructor. The following year, she became Kenmore Air’s first full-time female pilot. Today, she remains the only fulltime woman pilot and one of a handful of Kenmore Air pilots who can fly the entire line, including the large 10-passenger Otter. Although Michelle is the only year-round, full-time female pilot, currently there are two other full-time seasonal female pilots at Kenmore Air.
A Pilot’s Daughter When Michelle was 14-years-old, she dreamed of being a veterinarian. Her dreams changed when she was snatched from the melting pot of Quebec, Canada and transplanted in North Carolina, where her dad had bought a private airport. “It was a culture shock,” she said. Her dad became a flight instructor and offered the occasional charter flight. Under his tutelage, she learned to fly and earned her pilot
Love on the Dock The aviation community is small. But not so small that romance can’t flourish. When another pilot Michelle had never met offered to help her “tail out,” she couldn’t help but notice he was cute. (Tailing out is grabbing the sea-
Michelle Rohter
Kenmore Air’s First Full-time Female Pilot By Mikaela Cowles
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plane and pointing it away from the dock.) That first meeting was in the spring, and no names were exchanged but Mike did eavesdrop on Kenmore Air’s frequency and he heard Michelle asking if anyone knew, “the cute guy who helped me tail off?” It would be a few months before they saw each other again. The rest of the summer, they unsuccessfully tried to cross paths. Finally, as the busy season came to a close, Michelle invited him to a barbecue. The courtship was, as Michelle says, “Interesting. Neither of us wanted to date a bad pilot. We both wanted to make sure the other one could really fly,” she said. Mike is a pilot for a private family but is also a commercial pilot. After testing each other on ride-alongs, Michelle and Mike were married in 2001. They now have two beautiful boys and a rescue dog named Darby.
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Beyond Flying “In my single days, flying was my passion and a big part of what defined me. Now that passion has shifted to my family and trying to raise my two boys to be respectable, loving, and contributing members of society,” said Michelle. When she isn’t flying, she spends time with her family – especially outdoors. “We don’t have a TV, so the boys are outside constantly.” While they explore their yard, Michelle spends time in her garden, growing vegetables such as snap peas, cucumbers and zucchini. Last year she had an epic tomato crop. Living just two miles from Kenmore Air Harbor, she bikes, gliding downhill on the way there and getting a workout on the way home. A book is always tucked in her satchel. Her current interest is reading how the brain works. “It helps me understand the kids, but I also enjoy the occasional novel, too.” 64
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Northwest Author Spotlight By Betsy Crowfoot
Jim Lynch
Olympia, Washington author Jim Lynch admits that as a teen, he fantasized about being a writer or a rock star. “Novelists and rock stars were my heroes ... but I had no musical ability, so I became a writer,” he laughs. And now he is both. As Lynch’s most recent release Truth Like The Sun [Knopf, 2012] amasses accolades – including a nomination for the prestigious Dashiell Hammett Prize for literary excellence in the field of crime writing in North America – he has achieved ‘rock star’ status in the writing world. Recently Lynch reflected on early years, when it was “my first and foremost fantasy to write novels,” he says. After studying English and Journalism at the University of Washington, he embarked on a career as a journalist, conceding it was an easier path. But it wasn’t ‘easy.’ 68
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His only job offer was a weekly newspaper in Petersburg, Alaska: a tiny panhandle hamlet of 3,000. Starting as a beat reporter was challenging. “It was very intimate reporting; a little claustrophobic. The people you’d write about, you’d run into at the grocery story. But there seemed to be so many stories per capita – interesting people and crazy stuff going on. It was a good place to start, and keep the writing alive.” Lynch fed that dream, penning novels mornings and weekends, while he paid his dues as a journalist during the day; bouncing from job to job, including an internship with Jack Anderson, the syndicated columnist. “I always thought my fiction writing helped my journalism. It taught me how to create structure and narrative. And vice versa. Journalism allowed me to gather information and material
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that would inspire my imagination.” Although at times, it was trying. “If I came home after a day as a journalist, and tried to write fiction, I couldn’t. It’s such a different craft. But if I wrote in the mornings, I wouldn’t get that impatient urgency of journalist in my fiction.” Lynch’s big break came when he sold The Highest Tide [Bloomsbury, 2006], a coming-of-age novel set in the Puget Sound. The San Francisco Chronicle called it “stunning prose” ... London Times, “poetic ... lucid and radiant” and O, The Oprah Winfrey Magazine, echoed with, “a radiant first novel.” The success signaled a relaxing change of pace for the then 42-yearold author. “I had had enough of journalism for a while; it was a refreshing and rewarding lifestyle shift.” “The world of full-time fiction writing is so different. I enjoy the empathy
end of it, and putting a mix of people into places where they collide; that’s a kick for me.” He admits though to a “neurotic isolation” – particularly during the winter months, when he puts down on paper what he has gathered throughout the spring and summer. “I do a lot of research during the nice months, May to October; and I coincide my most feverish writing with the rain.” As a result, he says, most of his work reflects the beauty of the summer months: “western Washington coming alive.” Border Songs [Vintage, 2010] and Truth Like The Sun are also set in the Pacific Northwest. “I write best in the morning, and try to get in four hours if I can,” he adds.
Our favorite color is
sky blue
“Novelists and rock
stars were my heroes ... but I had no musical ability, so I became a writer.” “I juggle a mix of caffeine, exercise and beer—in that order—and tend to listen to a lot of jazz when I write. I think I’m kind of superstitious about them (jazz musicians) getting me into a good writing groove.” Meanwhile, Lynch continues to work on his latest novel, also set in the Puget Sound. “It’s about a family that happens to be, in various ways, obsessed with sailing.” He admits a personal connection, saying he grew up sailing, and enjoys racing out of Olympia and cruising the San Juan Islands. He added, “I sailed to Desolation Sound, a glorious area; and flew back on Kenmore Air. It was pretty dazzling.” The working title is Before the Wind: “look for it in 2014,” he says. Lynch, 52, lives with his wife Denise (20-year-old daughter Grace is away at college) in Olympia.
University Village is Seattle’s only outdoor lifestyle shopping center. Here, not only will you find signature fashion retailers such as Anthropologie, Madewell and Tommy Bahama, as well as home furnishing stores including Crate and Barrel, Room & Board and Pottery Barn, you’ll also discover a unique mix of locally-owned boutiques plus a dozen delicious eateries. Located just 10 minutes north of downtown Seattle, there’s no need to pack a bag, but you just might want to stay a while.
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Travel Savvy:CHARGE!
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“13R” photo used by permission of Long Bach Nguyen
Charge As You Go Will you be onboard a sport fishing boat or in a car during much of your trip? Cars and vessels provide 12-volt DC power for your phone or iPod. Have a car charger handy and replenish your batteries whenever you are underway. There are also new 12-volt chargers with USB plugs for charging. But many devices are designed to operate on the 120/220 volt AC power we get at home. If your appliance doesn’t have a 12-volt charger, consid-
with King County International Airport
By Betsy Crowfoot
Whether vacationing or on business, many travelers want to stay connected. That’s problematic if you’re spending long hours on the road, at sea, or in the wilderness. Here are tips for staying charged up when you check out. Charge Up Before You Go Top off your batteries to 100-percent before you set off, and then conserve. If you’re outside your service area, turn your phone off so it doesn’t waste energy searching for service. Likewise, use simple ringtones, disable vibrate mode and minimize apps to save juice. To make your laptop more efficient, defrag your system and eliminate power-poaching extras like CDs; use a touchpad in lieu of a mouse; and hit the ‘power saver’ setting in Power Options. Choose ‘hibernate’ over ‘sleep’ or ‘standby.’ If your battery still runs out within one or two hours, you may need to replace it. One small measure that will make a huge difference in preserving camera battery life is to turn off your LCD display screen and use the viewfinder, if your camera is equipped with one. And try to refrain from admiring your pictures until you get back to the grid.
Your Journey Begins
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Serving the Aviation Community Since 1928 206 -296 -7380 • www.kingcounty.gov/airport
er a power adaptor, which plugs into a cigarette lighter socket, an AC wall outlet or an airline in-seat power plug. Call For Backup If you’re answering the call of the wild with nowhere to plug in, consider bringing a backup battery pack. These can double or even triple the usage time of your device. They vary from pocket-sized flash chargers to lithium battery power packs. Again, charge up before you go and at every subsequent opportunity. Look for a backup battery that allows you to charge it a number of ways: from a vehicle, a three-prong plug, or even through your laptop USB. Alkaline Batteries and Rechargeables “It keeps going, and going and going,” the slogan says; but alkaline bat-
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teries are troublesome for the adventure traveler, considering their limited lifespan, the inconvenience of carrying spares and the impact on the environment. To preserve battery life, switch your device off and remove the batteries when not in use. Store them in a cool dry place, not the refrigerator. Better yet: if your flashlight, headlamp or so on calls for AA, AAA, C or D batteries, consider switching to rechargeables. These last up to 1,000 charges, with less of an impact on landfills. A NiMH (nickel-metal hydride) battery charger with four batteries will cost only about $25. And the best way to save battery life? Keep your electronics use to a minimum or leave them home and enjoy your new surroundings without distractions. The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine
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Summer Flyaways The Beach Club Resort, Parksville, BC
Nine-passenger wheeled Caravan
By Susan Cobly
Ten-passenger Turbo Otter seaplane
Looking for beaches that stretch for miles, golf courses, luxurious accommodations, great food, a microclimate that produces what some consider the best climate in Canada? And lots of fun things for the kids and adults alike? Look no further than The Beach Club Resort in Parksville on Vancouver Island. Providing courtesy pickup from the Kenmore Air base in Nainaimo, the Resort is on prime sandy beachfront that stretches as far as the eye can see. Classic West Coast styling is spare and elegant with muted lighting throughout, adding to a refined ambience. And if you are looking for 72
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views, most studios and suites have sweeping easterly views from their balconies, with the Coast Mountains spanning the horizon beyond the Strait of Georgia. The Pacific Prime Steak & Chop Restaurant and Lounge boasts the best waterfront patio in town, directly above the boardwalk along the beach. Executive Chef Rick Davidson has designed an eclectic menu that features local suppliers and Vancouver Aquarium’s Ocean Wise program for oceanfriendly seafood. The wine list is extensive and offers a wide selection of local British Columbia wines, served by attentive and experienced servers.
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The Beach Club is part of the Ecostay Program that supports hotels across North America in their effort to take action against climate change by incorporating environmental initiatives throughout the hotel. This includes Carbon Offset programs to make the guest rooms completely carbon neutral. With the onsite Stonewater Spa, an indoor heated pool and jacuzzi, fully equipped fitness centre and the excellent restaurant, guests may be tempted to stay on the premises for their entire stay. But they would surely be missing out on what the Parksville Qualicum Beach area has to offer.
Several excellent restaurants are close by, including Giovanni’s Ristorante in Qualicum Beach where Giovanni presides over the kitchen, producing classic and innovative Italian dishes that go far beyond pasta. A warm atmosphere is enhanced by the “regulars” and friendly staff. The surrounding area is a naturelover’s mecca. Visits to the Vancouver Island University’s sites are not only educational but inspiring as well. Milner Gardens and Woodland has been voted one of the ten best Public Gardens in Canada by Canadian Geographic Travel with more than 500 varieties of rhododendrons, trees and shrubs and has been visited by royalty including Queen Elizabeth, Prince Phillip, Prince Charles and Princess Diana. Not into gardens? There are six golf courses close by, including the 100year old Brigadoon in Parksville and two mini golf courses. Or go spelunking at Horne Caves; visit Morningstar Farm and get up close and personal with the dairy herd and pigs after doing a little wine and cheese tasting. But more than any other activity, the Parksville beach out in front of the Beach Resort will call you to swim, go beachcombing, contemplate the changing tides and simply relax and enjoy.
The Beach Club Resort 181 Beachside Drive, Parksville, BC V9P 2H5 www.beachclubbc.com The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine
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Lake Crescent Lodge, Port Angeles, WA
Shall we go for a boat ride or play another board game? Trek to the Marymere Falls or read a book in one of those big Adirondack chairs down on the beach? Will it be cider-brined pork loin with sweet potato hash and apple chutney, or local Neah Bay salmon with lemon caper relish served on a cedar plank? Such are the weighty decisions one is forced to grapple with during a stay at the Lake Crescent Lodge. Located in the heart of the Olympic National Park, the historic lodge has served as a sort of base camp for exploration-minded visitors since its construction in 1916. And truth be told, not much has changed about Lodge Life in the almost century 74
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By Joshua Colvin
since. The rooms—both in the lodge itself and in the adjacent Roosevelt cabins, have a minimalist 1960s feel, with simple furnishings and restored hardwood floors. Noticeably absent are the twin distractions of telephones and television sets. Factor in spotty cell service and a Wi-Fi signal that doesn’t reach all rooms and guests might just be encouraged to enjoy a vacation unplugged. A Lodge highlight is time spent in the Singer Tavern Lounge—a warm room gently lighted by snowshoeshaped lanterns and the flickering glow of the massive stone fireplace. With its dark, wood-covered ceiling and walls and old hewn furniture, the lounge feels like an adult sum-
mer camp and guests invariably gather there each evening for fireside chats and to enjoy Northwest wines or local microbrews at the full bar. The adjacent restaurant offers relaxed bistro-style dining, serving regional favorites like Dungeness Crab Cakes, Penn Cove Mussels—and lavender marionberry ice cream for dessert. The star attraction, of course, is the lake. Created some seven millennia ago by Ice Age glaciers, the mostly nitrogen-free lake is largely resistant to algae growth and, therefore, virtually transparent. Its impossible blues and greens are the reason the Lodge and all its cabins face one direction. If you venture away from shore in one of the Lodge-supplied canoes or kayaks and discover that even in the gin-clear water you can no longer see the bottom, it’s because Lake Crescent is deep. Very deep, so deep, in fact, that native peoples long believed it was bottomless—and it turns out they might have had it about right. In the 1960s, a US Navy survey team’s depth sounders couldn’t find the bottom and recent unofficial readings have recorded 1,000 feet or more. Surrounded by the precipitous peaks of the Olympic Mountains, including the heroically-named 4,537foot Mount Storm King, the Lodge’s breathtaking setting rivals those of even the most scenic Alpine lakes. The vistas are so spectacular that visitors inevitably spend much of their time backing up or crouching down, framing up photographs. It’s been said that if you can appreciate beauty for just 17 seconds a day you’ll receive positive benefits for the next 24 hours. If that’s true, a stay at Lake Crescent Lodge will reward you for a lifetime.
Lake Crescent Lodge 416 Lake Crescent Rd Port Angeles, WA 98363 www.olympicnationalparks.com The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine
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The Oswego Hotel Victoria, BC
As your Kenmore Air floatplane approaches Victoria’s Inner Harbour, you can see The Oswego Hotel off to your right. Built just six years ago, this ten-story boutique hotel is just minutes from Kenmore’s dock, whether you take a taxi or prefer to walk along the waterfront and along quiet, treelined Oswego Street. Only two blocks from the harbor, the hotel’s rugged western stone and timeless brick architecture rises above the city. You’ll feel instantly welcomed by the subdued elegance of the lobby and once in your suite, you’ll feel right at home. We stayed in one of the premium one-bedroom suites. Premium suites 76
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are on the seventh through ninth floors with panoramic views, while the standard suites are on floors two through six. The accommodations in both standard and premium suites are the same—contemporary furniture, which includes a dining table, comfortable couch and reading chairs and a well-equipped modern kitchen. Slate floors in the entry, kitchen and bathrooms and warm-toned brown and black granite counters complement the contemporary theme. The bedrooms are modern and comfortable with bathrooms that feature tubs and enclosed showers. The floor-to-ceiling windows are
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By Vincent Hagel
well insulated and block most noise from the city below. The living room and bedrooms open to the glassedin balcony. Suites on the east side of the building display the sparkle of the city as night falls, with the Parliament building outlined in lights as well. Dawn brings the city into silhouette and during the day, from the balcony, you can contemplate the Olympic Mountains. Suites on the west side open to an expansive water view and the balcony gives you a different and breath-taking experience. The twobedroom boutique suites on the top floor have larger balconies and two bathrooms among other additional
amenities. All suites have access to the fitness room, which adjoins a private garden on the main floor. The Oswego Hotel also welcomes pets and provides pet beds and bowls. Unfortunately, Fido and Tabby are not allowed inside O Bistro and Lounge, even if they like jazz. Wednesday evenings feature live jazz from different artists each week. The music was enjoyable, jazz samba and interpretations of modern and classic jazz by a fine guitarist and bass. The dinner menu ranges from small plates to a plat de jour paired with wines. Most remarkable was the endive salad and its melted smoked apple cheddar. We capped off the evening on the balcony overlooking Parliament. O Bistro also serves breakfast, brunch and lunch and features an additional gluten-free menu and can serve private parties of up to ninety diners. The Oswego Hotel is a proud member of the Green Key Eco-Rating program, a graduated rating system designed to recognize lodging properties that are committed to improving their fiscal and environmental performance. In the same vein, the hotel donates to The Land Conservancy of British Columbia. In keeping with the hotel’s ongoing sustainability program, the O Bistro’s kitchen composts, recycles and uses eco-friendly cleaning products. Certified fair trade organic coffee and teas are used exclusively throughout the hotel and by supporting local producers and with a 100 percent sustainable Ocean Wise™ seafood menu, you can expect only the best and freshest fare. Rated sixth among Victoria’s sixtyseven hotels, The Oswego Hotel will not disappoint you.
Oswego Hotel 500 Oswego Street Victoria, BC V8V 4Z2 (250) 294-7500 www.oswegovictoria.com The Kenmore Air Destination Magazine
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Flying with Kenmore Air
Things you need to know... Baggage Allowances At Kenmore Air we have big hearts but little airplanes! Our baggage limits and penalties for overweight bags are dictated solely by safety of flight concerns, which are more acute on our size aircraft than on the big jets. Seaplane passengers are permitted up to 25 pounds of baggage per person. All items are weighed and count toward the limit, including purses, laptops, backpacks, and so on. Additionally, no single baggage item can exceed 10 x 16 x 24 inches. On Kenmore Air Express wheeled-plane flights, passengers may check baggage totaling up to 50 pounds and may hand-carry one personal item (purse, backpack, etc.) of up to 20 pounds. The checked item may not exceed 62 linear inches, and the personal item may not exceed 36 linear inches. Overweight baggage will be carried on either service if capacity is available for $1 per pound. However, overweight/oversized baggage is always at risk of being bumped unless extra baggage space has been reserved and pre-paid in advance.
Charter Service Kenmore Air offers a lot of scheduled flights to a lot of places, but sometimes, you really need to travel on your schedule, not ours. Or perhaps you need to go somewhere we don’t fly everyday. That’s what charters are for. With our large and diverse fleet of seaplanes and wheeled-aircraft, we’re able to offer customized flying throughout the Pacific Northwest. For a quote, call 866.435.9524 and ask for a charter specialist or send an e-mail to charters@KenmoreAir.com.
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Check-in Times
Sea-Tac Shuttles Kenmore Air operates ground shuttles between SeattleTacoma International Airport and its three Seattlearea terminals. These shuttles are complimentary for connections to year-round routes and available at a nominal charge for connections to seasonal routes. Shuttles must be reserved in advance. When booking flights online, select “Seattle-Tacoma International” as your origin or destination, and our system will automatically book the correct combination of shuttle and flight for you. Shuttles pick up from Sea-Tac at Door 00 in the Scheduled Airporter waiting area at the far south end of Baggage Claim. Please be at Door 00 with your claimed baggage at least 10 minutes before the scheduled shuttle departure time. The shuttle driver will always make a departure announcement over the PA system, but passengers are ultimately responsible for getting on the shuttle by departure time. When connecting to another airline from Sea-Tac, be sure to schedule your Kenmore Air flight and shuttle to arrive at Sea-Tac with sufficient time (per your major airline’s recommendation) to check in, check baggage and clear security. A minimum of 90 minutes is generally recommended.
Customs & Immigration With a handful of extremely limited exceptions, everyone flying internationally — regardless of citizenship or age — is required to have a current, valid passport book. Passport cards, NEXUS cards and so-called “enhanced driver licenses” are not valid for travel aboard Kenmore Air. Travelers should also be aware that some criminal offenses that are misdemeanors in the United States are considered felonies in Canada and can result in denial of entry. Driving under the influence of alcohol is a common example. Every traveler is responsible for making sure that they meet the requirements of international travel. Kenmore Air will accept no liability for cost or inconvenience arising from denial of entry into either the United States or Canada.
Kenmore Air passengers enjoy a generally more relaxed traveling experience than the typical airline affords. Nevertheless, we do require check-in for all domestic flights 30 minutes prior to scheduled departure. Due to certain requirements of U.S. Customs & Border Protection, check-in for international flights is required 45 minutes prior to departure. Flights close for boarding 15 minutes prior to scheduled departure, which means that seats for passengers who haven’t checked in at that time may be released to stand-by passengers. Also, the flight may depart anytime after closing, even if it’s prior to scheduled departure. We like arriving early! For flights departing from unstaffed locations, like seaplane docks in the San Juan Islands or British Columbia, passengers should be ready to go at least 15 minutes prior to scheduled departure time to accommodate unforeseeable variations in flight time.
Overnight Connection Specials With our Sea-Tac shuttle service, Kenmore Air and Kenmore Air Express flights offer folks a quick, convenient way to connect with the big airlines flying into or out of Seattle-Tacoma International Airport. With more than 100 domestic and international destinations served from SeaTac, many same-day connections can be made between Kenmore Air’s destinations and the world. But sometimes, your travel plans may require an extra night in the city. That’s why we have partnered with the Radisson Hotel Seattle Airport to offer our passengers preferred rates at this convenient, comfortable property. Immediately adjacent to Sea-Tac’s main entrance, the Radisson offers complimentary on-demand shuttle service for the quick drive between Sea-Tac’s ground transportation level and the hotel. Inside the newly renovated hotel, guests will find all the amenities expected of a top-flight business hotel, along with some unexpected touches to make any stay memorable, including a fitness center, heated indoor pool and a newly remodeled bar & grill.
Ty Edwards, Director of Customer Service 425.482.2243 / TyE@KenmoreAir.com
Share your experience. As a family-owned airline we are dedicated to creating memorable experiences for our customers and committed to providing exceptional customer service. Your take on the experience is vital to our success. Please contact me directly with any feedback regarding your experience. I look forward to hearing from you.
Reservations & Customer Service Reservations can be made online 24 hours a day, seven days a week at KenmoreAir.com, or call us tollfree seven days a week from 6:00 a.m. to 7:00 p.m. Pacific Time at 866.435.9524. For customer-service inquiries of an urgent nature, call our reservations line at 866.435.9524. For less timesensitive concerns, kudos or complaints, please e-mail us at feedback@KenmoreAir.com.
Terminal Locations Seattle Boeing Field 7277 Perimeter Road Seattle, WA 98108 Seattle Lake Union 950 Westlake Avenue N. Seattle, WA 98109 Kenmore Air Lake Washington 6321 NE 175th Street Kenmore, WA 98028 Victoria Inner Harbour 950 Wharf Street Victoria, BC V8W 1T4
Friday Harbor Airport 800 Franklin Drive Friday Harbor, WA 98250 360.378.1067 Eastsound/Orcas Island Airport 847 Schoen Lane Eastsound, WA 98245 360.376.1407 Port Angeles Fairchild Airport 1404 West Airport Road Port Angeles, WA 98363 360.452.6371
To take advantage of Kenmore Air’s negotiated rates with the Radisson Hotel Seattle Airport, call our customer service line at 866.435.9524. Note that this preferred rate is not available to walk-up customers at the hotel or through Radisson’s reservation desk. Some Kenmore Air flights may also be subject to discount when combined with a Radisson stay. Ask if any Overnight Specials are available for your itinerary.
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Marketplace
Marketplace
Victoria
BC Islands
Executive House Hotel
Li Read
Steps away from Victoria’s Inner Harbour and historic downtown. www.executivehouse.com
Salt Spring Island 250-537-7647
www.liread.com
BC Islands
San Juan Islands
Seattle
Seattle
Poet’s Cove
Waterworks Gallery
Thomas Fragnoli
Kenmore Air Suede Fleece Pullover
Premier luxury resort & spa, Gulf Islands, BC. www.poetscove.com
Northwest art selections.
New Construction & Remodels San Juan Islands and Seattle
www.waterworksgallery.com
www.thomasfragnoli.com
www.kenmoreair.com
Flightseeing with Kenmore Air
Enter our Photo Contest
Island Inn
Marketplace
Marketplace
Friday Harbor’s new stateof-the-art contemporary accommodations. www.123west.com
Chateau Victoria www.chateauvictoria.com
Magnolia Hotel & Spa
Relax. www.magnoliahotel.com
Philbrook’s Boatyard www.philbrooks.com
Sooke Harbour House
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Picturesque Wilderness Lodge www.eaglenook.com
Experience Seattle from the air. www.kenmoreair.com
Sonora
Quality Inn Seattle
www.sonoraresort.com
Views of the Space Needle tower, Lake Union and the downtown area. www.qualityinnseattle.com
Eco Adventure Travel at a Luxury Wilderness Resort
All of our rooms have been designed for year-round comfort and charm. www.sookeharbourhouse.com
Enter our Photo Contest
www.oswegovictoria.com
Eagle Nook
HARBORS Travel Club Membership
Great prizes for winners! Details on our Facebook page.
Discounts at over 50 lodging & dining establishments at destinations in WA & BC.
facebook.com/harborsmagazine
www.harborsmagazine.com/travel-club
www.harborsmagazine.com
Tucker House B&B Gift Certificate
The premier Friday Harbor B&B. www.tuckerhouse.com
Ranger Tugs Designed and built in the Pacific Northwest.
www.rangertugs.com
Great prizes for winners! Details on our Facebook page.
facebook.com/harborsmagazine
Elliott Bay Marina Seattle’s award-winning Elliott Bay Marina offers an urban oasis with two distinct restaurants: Magglie Bluffs and Palisades. www.elliottbaymarina.net
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Salmon Stamp Revenue Returns to BRITISH COLUMBIA March 21, 2013 was a bright day for British Columbia’s Pacific salmon, the recreational fishing industry and B.C.’s community salmon volunteers! After two years of discussions, the 2013 federal budget committed to returning 100 percent of income from the Salmon Conservation Stamp to B.C. Since 1996, the Foundation has received $1.00 from the sale of each $6.00 adult stamp purchased, and $4.00 from each stamp purchased by a juvenile under 16 years of age. The increase in funds will mean approximately $1 million more per year for community salmon conservation projects funded through the Foundation. While the Foundation led the discussions, the success of the proposal was a result of the support from several groups. Members of the Government caucus provided key support including, MP Andrew Saxton who championed the proposal, as well as MP’s Randy Kamp, Mark Strahl, Richard Harris and Minister James Moore. The Sport Fish Advisory Board wrote in support of the proposal, and 20 business leaders in B.C. signed a letter of support directed to Minister Flaherty. B.C.’s community volunteers, however, were the heart of the proposal’s success. Their ability to leverage funds by an average of 10:1 for each dollar from the stamp provided an undeniable business case. Of course, the proposal couldn’t have been successful without the support of the Minister of Fisheries and Oceans and staff of the department. The increased funding will help the Foundation meet all of its current requests for community projects involving habitat restoration, smaller-scale enhancement facilities and production, community planning, and education. But as the Foundation looks to diversify its programs to better meet the needs of Pacific salmon, it fully expects the demand for funds to increase. Diversification will include restoring Chinook and coho production in the Strait of Georgia, broadening activities to support sustainable fisheries and identifying the future needs of the recreational fishery in B.C.
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Key programs that support the recreational fishing industry could also benefit from the stamp income. Programs like the Certified Tidal Angling Guide program that establishes best standards and practices for B.C. fishing guides, including knowledge of local species and the environment. The stamp income could ensure funding for coast-wide catch monitoring and sampling to better evaluate fisheries decisions, or provide funding for research issues that hold back recreational opportunities. To fully appreciate the scope of challenges facing Pacific salmon, one need only look at the 75 recommendations made in the recent Cohen Commission Sockeye Enquiry report. Some have suggested that increasing the stamp fee would be a logical next step to help address these challenges; especially considering the reduced role of Fisheries and Oceans Canada. The Foundation is committed to continuing dialogue with salmon user groups and stakeholders to solicit input about the best use of salmon stamp funds, especially any proposal to increase the value of the stamp. The Foundation recognizes its role as administrators of the conservation stamp funds. It will continue to direct funds to efficient projects and to provide leadership in defining current issues. The Foundation’s work with the stamp is certainly not done, but the future is certainly much brighter.
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The Role of Sport Fishing
A recently published B.C. Statistics report, BC’s Fisheries and Aquaculture Sector-2012 Edition, recognizes sport fishing as the largest creator of economic activity in all fishery sectors in B.C. and accounts for revenues of $936.5 million (freshwater and tidal) in 2011. “We’ve always thought that sport fishing creates the greatest value for each fish caught,” says Owen Bird, executive director of the Sportfishing Institute of B.C. “It’s nice to see these important facts set out in a detailed economic analysis.” The Pacific Salmon Foundation recognizes that the power of the tidal recreational fishery is the number of people purchasing the salmon stamp. In recent years, approximately 250,000 fishers purchased a stamp. Now that all of the funds stamp income will be returned to B.C., a very modest increase in the stamp cost can provide significant funds for salmon restoration and sustainable fisheries.
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T
he most appealing destinations often aren’t just around the corner. That’s why we’ve built Ranger Tugs® and Cutwater Boats® in the Pacific Northwest since 1958. Each model features standard bow
and stern thrusters for effortless handling, coupled with fuel-efficient diesel power to bring even remote anchorages within easy reach. A comfortable ride, generous interior and standard equipment make the trip worthwhile. Our boats are designed for easy trailering, to extend your horizons even further. No wonder Ranger Tugs and Cutwater have emerged as leading builders of family cruisers, and the favored choice of experienced owners across North America and worldwide.
RangerTugs.com | 253.839.5213 R-21EC • R-25SC • R-27 • R-29 • R-31
CutwaterBoats.com | 800.349.7198 C-26 • C-28
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Luxury in the Canadian Wilderness One short Kenmore Air flight transports you to Sonora Resort, where ocean waterways surge around pristine, rainforest-capped islands. Here dolphins and orca frolic in the rapids, eagles soar overhead, and bears amble on the shoreline. Sonora is a secluded paradise, a delightful fusion of outdoor adventure, world-class dining, and luxurious accommodations. Experience the majesty of the grizzlies on a guided tour, then rejuvenate at our full service spa. Spend your morning ocean kayaking, and the afternoon feasting on canapĂŠs and champagne aboard a luxurious Grady White.
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Visit sonoraresort.com/kenmoreair for packages exclusive to Kenmore Air guests.
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sonoraresort.com 1-888-576-6672