CHAPTER FOUR
Skincare 64
CHAPTER FIVE
106
CHAPTER SIX
156
In South Asian cultures, I can’t stress enough how important the ‘feeling’ of beauty is, rather than just the simple result you get from products. In 2017 I remember writing a feature based upon some research undertaken by Philips. In one of its largest global consumer surveys, the brand asked thousands of women globally if they considered themselves beautiful. Of course, beauty is subjective, but what the question reveals is the stark contrast between South Asian beauty culture and different beauty cultures around the world. Most interestingly for me, as a British–Indian, of the 1,000 women asked in each country, 96 per cent of Indian women considered themselves beautiful compared to 29 per cent of British women. 1
Here’s what I take from it: I don’t think Indian women think of themselves as beautiful in an egotistical way, but their lives are strikingly beauty-full – the culture is rich with rituals and practices that are passed on through generations of women. Beauty is deep-rooted in South Asian cultures, and by that I don’t mean piling on makeup and getting all dressed up (although a smudge of kajal and a slick of lipstick never goes amiss). Beauty is often a practice rather than a necessity. The study found, expectedly, that South Asian women are more likely to include mindfulness practices such as yoga and meditation in their daily routines. Yoga has become one of the most popular forms of modern exercise. I’m the first to put my hand up to sporadic mindfulness at best, but for many South Asian women
mindfulness has always been a part of their beauty. Meditation is linked to many religions in South Asia and it’s a practice that can help to keep the mind clear. I’m pretty sure it helps to keep the skin clear and wrinkle-free, too. In the wellness game, ‘self-care’ is bandied around so often that now it’s almost lost its meaning. I find it quite a passive term. But beauty is often an active component in confidence, selfesteem and an overall mind-body-beauty connection for many South Asian women.
As an adult, I find it really interesting to see how South Asian and Bollywood makeup is filtering down into the current beauty trends around the world. Many of the makeup looks I see while scrolling through Instagram have the hallmarks of traditional Indian beauties. The smoky, kajal-lined eyes, the thick arched brows and the softly matte complexion: all can be seen in old Bollywood films as the norm. Beauty is such a powerful force in so many aspects of South Asian culture, and it’s not that beauty is seen as a functional means to an end, as a way to fix a problem – more, it’s a feeling that extends way past the aesthetic. The ways in which I pass on the baton of cultural knowledge to my kids are simple. It’s through Indian cooking – it is one of my proudest achievements that my sons, Arjan (seven) and Ruben (five), know their different dhals and how to identify cumin in a line-up of spices – but also through beauty rituals like hair oiling and massage, which I incorporate into our weekly schedule just as I would playdates and movie nights.
Beauty is such a powerful force in so many aspects of South Asian culture, and it’s not that beauty is seen as a functional means to an end. It’s a feeling that extends way past the aesthetic.
Quite apart from pigmentation, one area of skincare I get asked about often is how to make the skin look glowier. South Asian skin has a very different set of skin concerns to Caucasian women; there is usually a much bigger focus on pigmentation and skin evenness over wrinkles and lines. For all the older women in my family – my mum included – wrinkles just aren’t something that bothers them, the concerns are always skin tone and how to improve skin brightness (not lightness).
This has nothing to do with skin colour, more the luminosity of the skin, which for Dr Thivi has become a huge buzz word in her dermatology clinic over the past year. The thing with luminosity is that no amount of brightening serums will work on dehydrated skin – if the skin isn’t initially hydrated, you won’t get the light-reflecting bounce on it. So, first things first: make sure you’re sipping water regularly throughout the day. One of the first things I notice when I haven’t been diligent about water intake is how my skin will start to look significantly more dull. Yes, drinking water is
I’ve used a vitamin C serum almost every day for the past seven years. Looking back at my skin ten years ago it was far more dull and tired-looking, and certainly not glowy.
such a boring tip and I would often roll my eyes while interviewing celebrities when they said that was their number one beauty tip, but it is true. And, fortunately, it’s free.
Once your hydration levels are up, let’s take a look at one of my all-time favourite skincare ingredients, vitamin C. Now, the antioxidant vitamin C has become so popular over the past five years that searches on Google are in the millions. The amount of brands I’ve noticed launching vitamin C-specific serums compared to five years ago is astounding. Everyone seems to have a vitamin C in their range now. The ingredient can come from any manner of sources, such as ferulic acid, L-ascorbic acid or even from plants and fruit enzymes. Find the right one that works for your skin type and sensitivity level, and you’re in for a treat: vitamin C helps to keep the skin bright, glowy and, yes, luminous. I’ve used a vitamin C serum almost every day for the past seven years, throughout all my three pregnancies and postpartum too. Looking back at my skin ten years ago it was far more dull and tired-looking, and certainly not glowy.
Dermatologists agree. ‘I think vitamin C suits most skin types,’ suggests Dr Thivi. ‘It’s an effective way to improve the brightness of your skin as long as your skin’s barrier is in good shape.’ This means any signs of sensitivity or existing irritation should be addressed first, before cracking open that vitamin C serum. Dr Amiee points out that if you’re very acne-prone, it might be worth using a gentler level of vitamin C or switching up for the very tolerable gallic acid or arbutin.
SKINCUETICALS C E FERULIC I’ve finished countless bottles of this antioxidant serum. I love the combination of no-nonsense actives that are gentle enough to use everyday.
IND Ē WILD VITAMIN C + ASHWAGANDHA SERUM
I love that this serum combines vitamin C with Ayurvedic ingredients. It is an excellent all-rounder for everyone from beginners to experienced vitamin C users.
TATCHA VIOLET-C BRIGHTENING SERUM
I am a big fan of Tatcha’s skincare, and this serum in particular. With 20% Vitamin C and 10% AHAs, this product helps to gently resurface dull, uneven skin.
VICTORIA BECKHAM SATIN KAJAL LINER
If you prefer a liner that you can smudge, this is really impressive.
KULFI KAJAL IN NAZAR NO MORE Creamy to apply but long-lasting, this kajal lasts all day.
ESTEE LAUDER DOUBLE WEAR 24 HOUR LONGWEAR GEL PENCIL
One swipe of this eyeliner is all you need for budge-proof eye makeup.
MAKEUP BY MARIO MASTER PIGMENT PRO PENCIL
I really love this creamy eyeliner, which comes with a fantastic blending brush for smokey eyes.
HOURGLASS VOYEUR WATERPROOF GEL EYELINER
This creamy, gel formula glides onto the skin so beautifully. You can smudge it in for a softer look, and then it sets all day.
RUBY HAMMER 1.7MM PRECISION EYE PENCIL
This micro-fine tip makes it really easy to define the eyes in a subtle way.
For the best way to apply hair oil, as with so many ancient rituals, take your time with the process. For the Mehtas, the ritual of abhyanga , which is self-massage as an act of self-love in Sanskrit, starting with the energetic point on the top of our head, the crown chakra, is key. ‘By beginning your head massage at the crown, you will alleviate stress and tension from the roots,’ says Akash. ‘A herbal hair oil with adaptogens calms down your nervous
system and an oil head massage stretches the hairs from the root and stimulates them to produce thicker individual strands.’ Begin by warming a few drops of oil in your hands and placing them on the crown of your head, on dry hair. From there, massage into the scalp and use the remainder of the oil to brush through the ends with your fingers. For best results, leave the oil overnight and wash it out the next morning.
I swear by this recipe, especially when my hair is feeling dry or like it needs a boost of moisture. It will leave your hair feeling luscious and conditioned. You will need a blender for this.
2 tbsp chia seeds ✴ 2 tbsp flax seeds ✴ 2 tbsp sunflower seeds
2 tbsp pumpkin seeds ✴ 2 tbsp lotus seeds ✴ 2 dates
A small handful of almonds ✴ 500ml (18fl oz) water
1. Roast the seeds in the oven on a low heat for 20 minutes. This releases the oils.
2. Remove the seeds from the oven and blend together to form a fine powder.
3. Remove the powder from the blender and set aside.
4. Next, pour the water into the blender and add in 2 tablespoons of the powder.
5. Add the dates and a small handful of almonds and blend until combined.
6. Enjoy!
For a simple method of hair oiling, place four fingers on your forehead, and then a few drops of oil above your index finger. Then place your four fingers above this point; and apply more oil. Repeat until you get to the nape of your neck. This will cover all the key energy points. Massage in the rest.
I’ll be the first to admit that I do not have time for lengthy rituals in my day. If I lived on a desert island with nannies, cooks, cleaners and an endless bank balance, then sure, why not engage in a day full of self-care rituals? But the reality is obviously very different. With jobs to hold down, mortgages to pay, children to pick up and drop off, meals to cook, social lives to maintain and homework to do, there’s often little time for anything else. Just the mere thought of engaging in a ‘ritual’ is something I don’t have time for nor the headspace. But rituals shouldn’t be seen as chores, should they? This is why ‘micro-rituals’ appeal to me. A series of short but ultimately effective practices that genuinely can be worked into your everyday life to improve
your health – both mentally and physically – in small, incremental ways.
It’s a technique that also resonates with Akash from Fable & Mane. He’s one hell of a busy man – splitting his time between running an ever-expanding business with his sister, Nikita, hosting a podcast on brand founders and just generally being a master networker. He tells me he doesn’t put too much pressure on himself with practices, but instead focuses on the quick ones that help him in his day. The same goes for Sunita Passi, the founder of Tri-Dosha, a British–Indian Ayurvedic wellness brand. Although an experienced holistic practitioner, Sunita also works in easy ways to connect with herself using micro-rituals.
There’s nothing like a warm cup of milk to promote a good night’s sleep, especially if it takes you a while to drift off at night.
1 mug of whole milk (or nut milk of your choice) ✴ A large pinch of ground nutmeg ✴ A large pinch of ground cinnamon ✴ A large pinch of ground turmeric ✴ 1 tsp ashwagandha
1. Warm the ingredients in a saucepan over a low heat.
2. Pour into a mug and drink before heading to bed.
TIP Ashwagandha is an adaptogen, or a type of herb, that is fantastic for easing anxiety.
Wake up and take a couple of deep breaths. Try ten seconds of deep breathing followed by short, quick breaths. This is instantly invigorating in the morning. Breathwork is key to Ayurveda but you’ve got to balance the traditional practices with what can work for you.
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Tongue scraping may be trendy now but it’s an Ayurvedic practice that dates back centuries. It takes care of your mouth’s environment and the copper has healing benefits too. Scrape your tongue after brushing.
In the shower, give thanks to each body part as you’re cleansing your skin, working from head to toe. It’s easy to run through a to-do list of the day’s tasks, but taking a few moments to foster that mind–body connection sets you up for the day.
When you do your hair in the morning, massage your scalp before styling (but only with oil once a week or so). This massage is so crucial; you are increasing blood circulation and delivering more nutrients and oxygen to your scalp. 4
5
At some point in the day, listen to a good podcast that teaches you something. A podcast may not be an authentic principle of Ayurveda but it is the modern version of speaking spirituality or philosophy. It’s our access point.
When you’re washing your face in the evening, spend a minute massaging it with a Kansa wand – it’s a detoxifying massage tool made from copper, which also helps to increase blood circulation and create that ‘glow’.
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At night, spend a few moments applying an oil to your body, before showering it off. You don’t need to be massaging for hours, or even more than a few minutes.
STEP ONE
Skincare prep is key to really good makeup. This means super hydrated skin, perhaps with a hyaluronic acid serum, and definitely a primer with a little tackiness, which helps your foundation to stay put for longer.
STEP TWO
Apply colour corrector on any areas of the face that need lifting, and then apply your foundation with a synthetic brush for the most seamless finish. Follow with concealer wherever you applied the corrector, blend, and then finish with a dusting of translucent powder where you need it.
STEP THREE
Time to add some pops of colour and enhance the features. Add bronzer to warm up the high points of your face, blush towards the tops of your cheekbones and define the eyes and brows. Go as bold – or indeed subtle – as you like.
STEP FOUR
Nothing completes a makeup look like lipstick. It really is the cherry on the top of the cake. Whether you prefer a bold shot of colour or something more natural, a velvety matte or balmy gloss, I’ve shared some of my favourites on page 140.
DISCOVER
The heritage and traditions that make these tried-and-tested beauty practices unique.
EMPOWER
Learn how to use the right tools to boost your confidence and feel good in your own skin.
CREATE
Be inspired to experiment with products, techniques and routines.
• The first ultimate and indispensable beauty handbook for the South Asian community, the largest multi-ethnic group in the UK
• Packed with practical advice and solutions – from skincare to makeup and haircare – to boost your confidence and help you feel good in your own skin
• Covers everything from a deep-dive into kohl and skin pigmentation to the relevance of Ayurveda, the mind-body connection and the influence of Bollywood
• Sonia Haria is Beauty Director of the Telegraph Group and a member of the British Beauty Council’s Advisory Board
• A British South Asian herself, Sonia is a wellrespected leading voice in the beauty and wellness sector – she is perfectly placed to debunk the myths and explain the truths of South Asian beauty
COMING 4 JULY 24
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