MAGAZINE
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HARRODS MAGAZINE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DEBORAH BEE ART DIRECTOR BARNEY PICKARD DEPUTY EDITOR FLEUR FRUZZA CHIEF SUB-EDITORS LISA HILLMAN, NICOLETTE THOMPSON SUB-EDITORS JANICE MORTON, MADELEINE MURPHY PRODUCER LISA BONNICI ART EDITORS SONJA BURRI, NATALIE MOSQUERA SENIOR DESIGNER RACHEL ESCUDIER JUNIOR DESIGNER OLIVER JAMIESON ART ASSISTANT JENNIFER MYER HEAD OF DIGITAL DESIGN BOB DEVSI FASHION WRITER LINDSAY MACPHERSON STAFF WRITER AMY BROOMFIELD EDITORIAL ASSISTANT LOUISE FISH FASHION EDITOR JODIE NELLIST DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR POPPY ROCK SENIOR FASHION ASSISTANT BECKY BRANCH JUNIOR FASHION ASSISTANT OLIVIA HALSALL ACTING ASSISTANT PRODUCER EMILY SELLERS PICTURE ASSISTANT KIAAN ORANGE PHOTOGRAPHY BOOKINGS EDITOR WENDY HINTON MENSWEAR FASHION EDITOR MITCHELL BELK PUBLISHER BETH HODDER DIGITAL MANAGER CLAUDIA ORRELL ACTING DIGITAL MANAGER ARNAUD BURTIN SENIOR DIGITAL DESIGNER JAGMINDER TAKHAR DIGITAL DESIGNER JAIME RIVERA JUNIOR DIGITAL DESIGNER TAK YEUNG CHEUNG ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ALETHEA QUARTEY PUBLISHING ASSISTANT PHOEBE FISHER ACTING MANAGING EDITOR SUZY CHAPMAN PRODUCTION MANAGER HAYLEY YOUNG PRODUCTION ASSISTANT CAMILLA JOSEPHS HARRODS STORE IMAGE
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120,666 Period: 1st July 2012 to 31st December 2012
EDITOR’S LE T TER
You thought August was all about holidays? As the fashion seasons get shorter, the hottest month of the year is now all about previewing the key trends for autumn.
Main photo Barney Pickard; cover image Lucia Giacani
In this issue of Harrods Magazine, we’re celebrating the latest selection of bags courtesy of the most sought-after brands. Our Big Bag Theory fashion pages are a showcase of structured leather totes and miniature evening bags that have been created exclusively for Harrods. Also in this issue, the world’s most celebrated perfume houses have pulled out all the stops for our Fragrance Explosion, a special section that includes classic and contemporary must-have scents and the genius noses that created them. And to coincide with the opening of the new Luxury Jewellery room on the Ground Floor, nine of our favourite designers have created a kaleidoscopic display of diamonds, crystals and vibrant coloured stones. Bring on autumn.
Editor-in-Chief
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CONTENTS
August 2013
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NEW THIS MONTH 35 TOP 20 Launches, special offers and events for August 41 ZEITGEIST People and places in the air right now 47 SERIOUS FUN His dramatic intensity has won Denzel Washington six Oscar nominations. But his latest film, 2 Guns – based on a graphic novel – provides a welcome respite from his celebrated gravitas
FASHION COVER
Photographer LUCIA GIACANI; Junior Fashion Assistant OLIVIA HALSALL; Hair KEIICHIRO HIRANO at DWM; Make-up JOSE BASS at Frank Agency using Chanel; Model LIZZIE TOVELL at Tess Management. Gucci Lady Lock bag £15,260 and dress £1,820; Charlotte Olympia shoes £595 For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app
51 INTO THE BLUE The new denim attitude puts jeans with everything. Find the perfect partner at Jeans Therapy, new to Fashion Lab 54 WOMENSWEAR NEWS Monica Vinader’s collaboration with Gemfields; a cross-cultural aesthetic at Saloni; Alexander Wang AW13; Eskandar’s floaty silks 56 DENIM DAYS Panelled and patterned, distressed and dyed – this season, jeans are the go-anywhere favourite 58 WOMENSWEAR NEWS Tom Ford goes maximalist; Coach’s Haley bag in alligator and ostrich; Maria Grachvogel’s Bengal dress; Givenchy’s posh plimsolls 60 MENSWEAR NEWS New Zenith pilots’ watches; Moncler’s reversible quilted bomber; camo trainers by Valentino; The Grooming Guru cools off 62 URBAN JUNGLE Soldierly staples command attention with abstract camouflage prints, luxe textures and military styling 66 A FINE ROMANCE A chance encounter brought Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo together. But – with materials and craftsmanship usually reserved for couture – Ralph & Russo’s success is no accident 70 HOW TO WEAR THE NEW BAGS Featuring snakeskin, fur, jewels or pearls, this season’s bags aren’t mere accessories – they’re show-stealers 73 LUXURY JEWELLERY SPECIAL The latest collections are a riot of colourful gems, shimmering precious metals and innovative designs 90 THE BIG BAG THEORY Need an excuse to invest in this season’s most desirable bags? Ladylike is everywhere. Elaborate texture is a must 100 PARADISE FOUND The transition between seasons is made all the simpler when a summery shade sidles into the winter wardrobe. In lace, Lycra, suede and chiffon, white is now a year-round classic 110 WHO PAYS THE FERRYMAN? Welcome the new uniform of a true adventurer: khaki military staples worn with vintage-style jeans, soft cottons and cashmeres. Indiana Jones, eat your heart out
BEAUTY 119 FRAGRANCE EXPLOSION In olfactory circles, high summer means only one thing: the arrival of the headiest, sultriest, most opulent fragrances that are just bursting out of their bottles
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121 HIGH FIVE Marigay McKee, Fashion and Beauty Director at Harrods, reveals her top five beauty treats for August 126 SENSES WORKING OVERTIME Five of the world’s most successful perfumers reflect on the people, places and memories that have inspired their fragrance genius 136 MISS HEAVEN SCENT 139 EYE DRAMA As autumn approaches, it’s time to pack away the bronzing gel and bring the focus back to make-up. Here, YSL make-up artist Frederic Letailleur gives a masterclass in dramatic eyes 142 BEAUTY NEWS Harrods Agarwood by Bond No9; Sisley Supremÿa Yeux La Nuit; Teint Couture Fluid Foundation and Compact by Givenchy; Miss Maquillage swots up on scientific anti-ageing skincare
FOOD, INTERIORS & LIFESTYLE 145 RANGE ROVER From the moment their shells crack open, the chicks at Capestone Farm lead a low-stress life in wide-open pastures. It’s not just good for the environment; it makes for firm, flavoursome meat 151 CUISINE ON THE GREEN Picnic food is no longer limited to sausage rolls and Scotch eggs. Today’s alfresco dining options are as diverse as they are flavoursome 154 TEN MINUTES WITH IAN PENGELLEY A love of Asian culture and a surprise crash course in cookery resulted in Ian Pengelley becoming one of the UK’s most celebrated – if accidental – chefs 156 FOOD NEWS New citrus and herbal ganaches at La Maison du Chocolat; Rosalind Miller’s haute cupcakes; William Curley’s special-edition scotch whisky truffles; Madhu’s rose cheesecake 159 GOLDEN AGE Celebrating the colour of long summer days, exclusive interiors brands have conjured up one-of-a-kind pieces to last a lifetime 169 SAVOIR FARE Commissioned over a century ago by The Savoy to offer the ultimate night’s sleep, a bed by Savoir is still the epitome of bespoke luxury and comfort 173 EVERYDAY MAGIC The new Ferrari Four – the marque’s first three-door, four-seat 4WD – follows the brand aesthetic, with practicality on the side 178 LIFESTYLE NEWS Gluten-free dishes at in-store restaurants; Smythson’s summery Panama collection; The Berkeley Hotel Health Club & Spa 179 WHERE THE WILD THINGS ARE Chilled beach holiday or thrilling adventure trip? There’s no need to decide just yet on the paradise island of Borneo 184 HARRODS ESTATES Specialising in prime residential properties in central London and the Home Counties 186 THE ULTIMATE GINGHAM EXPERIENCE Powder blue, polished and imbued with femme-fatale femininity: Miuccia’s grown-up gingham coat is pure Prada perfection HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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TOP 20
TOP 20
Launches, special offers and events for August
1. Isaia cashmere & silk scarves
Neapolitan menswear brand Isaia’s cashmere and silk tartan scarves are made in Italy on one-of-a-kind Jacquard looms. £549. Men’s Tailoring, Ground Floor
2. Diptyque Eau Moheli fragrance Inspired by an island in the Indian Ocean, Diptyque’s Eau Moheli pays homage to ylangylang. 100ml, £60. The Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
3. Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti 1950s Paris inspired the latest collection by Philosophy, relaunching in-store for AW13. The slim-fitting embellished cocktail dress is exclusive to Harrods. Dress £875. Designer Collections, First Floor; and harrods.com
4. MCM Special Edition Urban Styler The Urban Styler bag by MCM celebrates the brand’s first ever shop-in-shop. Available in black and cerise. £800; exclusive to Harrods. Designer Accessories, Lower Ground Floor
5. Hermitage Carrs Bespoke Project An alliance between Carrs and Hermitage has created the Cornucopia sculpture and other unique objets d’art. Price on request; exclusive to Harrods. Luxury Home, Second Floor
6. Anya Hindmarch Bathurst bag Exclusively for Harrods, Anya Hindmarch has reworked the Bathurst in pewter ostrich skin; the bag can also be monogrammed. £1,995. Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor
7. Crème de la Mer gift with purchase A limited-edition Monica Vinader spatula comes as a gift with the purchase of the 500ml Moisturizing Cream. £1,300; exclusive to Harrods. The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor
8. Sarah Chapman skincare Skinesis Stem Cell Collagen Activator is made from a powder rich in botanical stem cells, blended with a peptide serum. 4 x10ml vials £245. The Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
Illustration Spiros Halaris
9. Alice + Olivia gowns Embracing the trend for rules-free dressing, Alice + Olivia pairs elegance with whimsy in its lace- and feather-trimmed AW13 range. Gown £950, dress £525. Studio, First Floor
10. Fabergé Viera Collection Inspired by Fabergé jewels found in a Moscow mansion in 1990, Viera Collection rings are set with precious gems. Rings from £50,500. The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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11. 111 Skin White Radiance Allowing high penetration of key ingredients, the 111 Skin White Radiance mask encourages skin’s natural recovery processes. £75; exclusive to Harrods. The Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
12. Zuhair Murad eveningwear Lace and sequins are Zuhair Murad signatures. His pre-fall 2013 gowns, which he calls “gothic renaissance”, come in jewel tones and black. Gown £5,875. Eveningwear, First Floor; and harrods.com
13. Fendi AW13 childrenswear
Bambini will look as sophisticated as grown-up Fendi fans in shearling coats and embroidered sweaters. Skirt £190. Childrenswear, Fourth Floor
14. Loewe Amazona exclusive bag The Amazona bag is a Loewe bestseller; a new black and white version with a red lizard key pouch is exclusive to Harrods. £3,395. Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor
15. Aveda Invati hair care The brand that brought ayurvedic beauty to the masses has developed Invati, which helps treat hair loss in women. Shampoo 1L, £76. The Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
16. Aquascutum childrenswear Signature Aquascutum styles from belted trench coats to club-check jackets have been made in miniature for the new children’s collection. Trench coat £285; exclusive to Harrods. Childrenswear, Fourth Floor
17. Barbour & Bella Freud Countryside outfitter Barbour embraces new designs as Bella Freud applies her animal instinct for knitwear to a capsule collection. Bella Freud sweater £94.95. Outdoor Luxury, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com
18. Pankaj & Nidhi Indian brand Pankaj & Nidhi wins awards for its richly patterned womenswear. Its latest collection is inspired by wycinanki, a Polish paper-cutting art. Dress £185; exclusive to Harrods. Swim, First Floor
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19. De’Longhi Scultura collection
20. The Big Cheese Making Kit The brainchild of entrepreneur Ailsa Proverbs, The Big Cheese Making Kit provides all you need for creating your own cheeses. £30. Food Halls, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
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Lotion Getty Images
An homage to Italian cars of the ’50s, De’Longhi’s Scultura collection looks vintage but is thoroughly hi-tech. Kettle £99.99. Kitchen Appliances, Second Floor
ZEITGEIST PEOPLE & PLACES in the air in August
BY LAURA JORDAN & BEN FELSENBURG
Stéphane Gallois
FASHION Gaia Repossi With her contemporary, minimal aesthetic, Gaia Repossi has been setting a new agenda in fine jewellery. Her ear cuffs and multi-banded Berbère rings, for instance, have seduced a design-conscious crowd with their graphic, industrial yet elegant lines. At 27, Repossi displays a poise that belies her age. Since 2007, she has been Artistic Director of Repossi, the house founded by her greatgrandfather in 1920. Not that it was always her plan to go into the family business; growing up, she says she was “a bit of a tomboy. I didn’t want to wear jewellery. That’s probably why I’m doing interesting things today.” A keen painter, Repossi studied fine art before doing a masters in anthropology and archaeology. Her intellectual pursuits have helped shape her aesthetic; she cites architecture and tribal jewellery as influences. Repossi’s pieces are designed to be worn in a relaxed way – the jewellery equivalent of a Chanel jacket paired with jeans. “The pieces are made for people who don’t like classic jewellery,” she explains. “But they’re made by the same ateliers, and with the same consciousness of quality.” Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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ZEITGEIST Carlos Acosta
EXHIBITION Making It Up: Photographic Fictions
THEATRE West Side Story
Sweethearts Maria and Tony are caught up in a battle between rival street gangs in the groundbreaking 1957 Broadway musical West Side Story. Featuring Leonard Bernstein’s landmark score – including “Maria”, “America” and “I Feel Pretty” – and Jerome Robbins’ original Tony awardwinning choreography – Sadler’s Wells’ revival is as fresh as ever.
Despite the common claim to the contrary, the camera does lie – which is actually a good thing, because the medium’s ingenious deceptions have inspired this eye-opening show. In fact, the potential to tell fictional stories goes back almost to the invention of the camera, and the mythic “photographic illustrations” of the pioneering Julia Margaret Cameron in the mid-19th century. More recently, in America, Duane Michals has produced “photo-fiction”, while Cindy Sherman has become one of the era’s most influential artists via Untitled Film Stills: self-portraits reminiscent of scenes from “classic”, but fictional, movies. Until 12th January 2014 at the Victoria and Albert Museum
Cindy Sherman, Untitled #74, 1980
From 7th August to 22nd September at Sadler’s Wells
Cindy Sherman courtesy of the artist and Metro Pictures; Lone Ranger Rex Features
Johnny Depp and Armie Hammer in The Lone Ranger
FILM The Lone Ranger It may be hard to picture Johnny Depp playing Tonto, a Native American spirit warrior, with full face paint and a crow on his head. (Then again, who could’ve imagined him as a kohl-eyed Keith Richards-inspired pirate?) Director Gore Verbinski, of the first three Pirates of the Caribbean films, teams up with Depp once more in this family-friendly action epic set in the Wild West. Packed with humour and big set pieces, it’s set to elevate Armie Hammer (The Lone Ranger) to the A-list in the title role; alongside Hammer are Helena Bonham Carter as Red Harrington, a madam, and Ruth Wilson as Rebecca Reid, a frontierswoman torn between two relationships. Opens on 9th August in the UK
THEATRE Dinosaur Zoo Reports of the dinosaurs’ extinction appear to have been greatly exaggerated – an ingenious puppet-theatre show has brought the prehistoric beasts back to life, to the delight of young audiences. Using dazzling creative tricks to spark the viewer’s imagination, “zookeepers” offer a close encounter with Tyrannosaurus rex and other terrifying dinos, along with some friendlier herbivores. Based on hard science, it’s informative entertainment, but be warned: the front three rows are officially designated as the “danger zone”. Children who stick around after the show can visit the beasts up close. From 9th August to 8th September at Regent’s Park Open Air Theatre
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ZEITGEIST Anna Tikhomirova in Swan Lake
WORKSHOPS Mall Galleries
The Federation of British Artists will be sharing their expertise in a series of hands-on one-day workshops during August. From portrait painting and drawing to mono-printing and watercolours, the courses are based in and around The Mall. Visit www.mallgalleries.org.uk for more information
Bolshoi Ballet – 50th Anniversary Season The Bolshoi Ballet caused an absolute sensation and was the toast of London when it crossed the Iron Curtain to perform at Covent Garden in 1963. Now, to mark the 50th anniversary of the visit, the company returns to the venue for three weeks to perform classic works. As well as Swan Lake, La Bayadère and The Sleeping Beauty, there are also rare revivals of The Flames of Paris, the exciting epic of the French Revolution, and Jewels, the landmark abstract ballet by George Balanchine. The season is a chance to witness the great Russian company continue its tradition as a central part of ballet history. Until 17th August at the Royal Opera House
THEATRE
Blue Stockings
Cambridge, 1896: despite widespread ridicule and opposition, the women of Girton College have been allowed to study for decades – but the notion that they should be allowed to graduate is still a shocking step too far. While in the wider country the fight for women’s suffrage has only just begun, the “blue stockings” of Girton are determined to win their campaign for recognition, respect and a degree. Written by rising playwright Jessica Swale and receiving its world premiere at Shakespeare’s Globe, the drama takes an intellectually engaging and sometimes lighthearted approach to the determined campaign. From 24th August at Shakespeare’s Globe
Julianne Moore and Onata Aprile in What Maisie Knew
FILM What Maisie Knew Maisie’s barely old enough for school, but her life is already complicated. Her art dealer father (Steve Coogan) is setting up house with her nanny, and her rock-star mother (Julianne Moore) is putting her new boyfriend – a barman half her age – in charge of Maisie while she’s on tour. The film offers an affecting and barbed depiction of modern life; at the heart of the drama is a brilliant performance by seven-year-old Onata Aprile as Maisie, who struggles to make sense of the adult world. Opens on 23rd August in the UK
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Bolshoi Damir Yusupov; What Maisie Knew Rex Features
DANCE
Playwright Jessica Swale
INTERV IE W
Serious fun
His dramatic intensity has won Denzel Washington six Oscar nominations. But his latest film, 2 Guns – based on a graphic novel – provides a welcome respite from his celebrated gravitas BY WILL LAWRENCE
Trunk Archive
D
enzel Washington had an epiphany on 27th March 1975. And biblical it was, too. He was sitting in a beauty parlour owned by his mother, Lynne, in Mount Vernon, New York. “I was 20 years old and I was flunking out of college,” he says. “And there was a woman sitting there, and she had a prophecy. She prophesied that I would travel the world and speak to millions of people.” At the time, the woman’s omen seemed far-fetched. “I went to a summer camp that year, as a counsellor” – Camp Sloane YMCA in Lakeville, Connecticut. “We put on shows for the campers, and I did this show and everybody was like, ‘Man, you’re a natural. Have you ever thought about being on the stage?’ “So that fall, when I got back into school, I switched my major to theatre. I immediately landed the leading role in Eugene O’Neill’s The Emperor Jones.” The prediction was beginning to unfold. “Prophecy is out of the Bible,” he says, “and that was a crossroads in my life.” Like many crossroads, it wasn’t easy to choose the right course. “My dream was to get back into school,” says Washington. “An acting career wasn’t something I’d wanted.” After all, asks the 58-year-old, who would his potential acting role models have been in the 1970s? “There weren’t many movie stars who looked like me,” he says. “I thought, Who am I going to be, Richard Pryor? There was nobody out there, except maybe the third guy from the back, sweeping up the floor, and I didn’t want to be that guy. ” Yet, once Washington graduated from Fordham University with a degree in drama and journalism, he thrived; he shared a 1982 Distinguished Ensemble Performance Obie Award for his role in the OffBroadway production of A Soldier’s Play. After that, Washington’s path to Hollywood stardom was, he says, “an overnight, 20-year success”. It began with a role on television – in the hospital drama St Elsewhere – in the same year in which he won the Obie. He then moved to the big screen and earned his first of six Academy Award nominations, for 1987’s
Cry Freedom, directed by Richard Attenborough. He then won the Oscar for Best Supporting Actor for 1989’s Glory and became a household name in the 1990s in the likes of Malcolm X, The Pelican Brief, Philadelphia, Crimson Tide and Courage Under Fire. In 2002, he scooped the Best Actor award for his performance in Training Day. Washington earned his most recent Oscar nomination this year for his performance in Flight, an edgy drama in which he plays an alcoholic, drug-addicted airline pilot. It was an arresting turn that won near-universal praise. His most recent film, 2 Guns, is based on a graphic novel, and is a much lighter offering than Flight. It’s a buddy/action/comedy film in which he co-stars with Mark Wahlberg. The pair are operatives from competing bureaus – Washington plays a DEA agent and Wahlberg an undercover naval intelligence officer – who are forced to go on the run together. Each man mistrusts his partner almost as much as he mistrusts the Mafiosi they’ve been hired to take down. Action, plot twists and high jinks ensue, with Washington at one point disguising himself as a drug dealer. X HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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INTERV IE W
Washington with Mark Wahlberg in 2 Guns
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“There weren’t many movie stars who looked like me. I thought, Who am I going to be, Richard Pryor?”
Washington with Ethan Hawke in 2001’s Training Day, for which Washington won the Best Actor Oscar
work out for the best. I believe in positive thinking and being grateful. It’s not what you have; it’s what you do with what you have.” HMN 2 Guns opens on 16th August in the UK Will Lawrence is a contributing editor on Empire magazine and has written for The Daily Telegraph and The Sunday Times.
Training Day & He Got Game Moviestore Collection
“He’s acting like he’s in that world,” he says of his character’s undercover clothing. “He’s not a dealer, but he’s making a $100,000 exchange for some dope, so he’s trying to convince everyone that he’s in the game. So he has to dress the part.” Washington will follow 2 Guns with a big-screen adaptation of The Equalizer, the 1980s TV show in which the late Edward Woodward played Robert McCall, a retired intelligence officer with a mysterious past who helps people in trouble. For the film, Washington will reprise the role of McCall, and once again teams up with his Training Day director, Antoine Fuqua. The original Equalizer TV show aimed for realism, and Washington says he wants the film version to do the same. With that in mind, he’s preparing for the role in a surprising way. “[McCall] worked at Kmart, so I’ve got a job at Kmart,” he says. “He’s not a normal guy. He’s had an extremely violent past in the armed services, and he’s suffering from OCD, so he likes to wash his hands a lot. He has odd habits, too. Every night he brings a tea bag to a restaurant at 2.15 in the In Spike Lee’s morning because he can’t sleep. 1998 film It’s going to be a great role.” He Got Game As the fame, fortune and accolades have mounted, Washington’s religious beliefs, as well as his family life – he has four children with his wife of 30 years, Pauletta – kept him famously guarded and grounded. “I believe in faith,” he says, “and thinking that things will
THE LATEST LOOKS FROM THE INTERNATIONAL CATWALKS
Into the
BLUE
The new denim attitude puts jeans with everything. Find the perfect partner at an appointment with the Jeans Therapists, new to the Fashion Lab BY LINDSAY MACPHERSON FASHION EDITOR
JODIE NELLIST
3.1 Phillip Lim jacket £1,620, exclusive to Harrods; jeans £645; and boots £765 exclusive to Harrods HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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FA SHION
7 For All Mankind shirt £185 and Koral jeans £165
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J Brand shorts £235
Citizens of Humanity skirt £335
Citizens of Humanity
Koral
Maison Scotch jacket £245 and Citizens of Humanity miniskirt £220
Hair SIMON IZZARD Make-up EMMA MILES at Emma Davies Agency using Chanel Model SANTA URBANE at Elite Deputy Fashion Editor POPPY ROCK Senior Fashion Assistant BECKY BRANCH Photographer (model shots, this page) MICHELLE BEATTY Photographer’s Assistant ROB BOWLER-BROOKS
AllSaints jeans £85 Rag & Bone jeans £250
Denim background and buttons iStockphoto
Koral
Koral jeans £195
Rag & Bone
Citizens of Humanity dungarees £345 and Jimmy Choo shoes £375
AllSaints
Available from Designer Studio, First Floor; and Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor. For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app
Koral jeans £185
J Brand
n the 140 years since Mr Levi Strauss patented his eponymous riveted trousers, jeans have been worn in so many ways – bell-bottomed and boot-cut, stonewashed, selvedged and sandblasted – that they’ve developed their own vernacular. But, despite undergoing what seems like every feasible incarnation, denim continues to evolve. And our enduring love affair with the hardwearing, hard-working wardrobe staple has never waned. This season’s denims (jeans, yes, but also shirts, shorts and ’90s-style jackets) return to their true-blue origins, albeit in a cornucopia of washes, adding to the eye-popping colours and textured coatings of past seasons. The new denim mood was woven through the fabric of the AW13 collections, no more so than in New York, where Phillip Lim took inspiration from “café racer culture, riffing off motorcycle style”. With their grungy leather biker jackets and skin-tight jeans emblazoned with colourful custom patches evoking denim’s counterculture-cool past, the 3.1 Phillip Lim girl-gang had rebel spirit and style in equal measure. In Paris, Clare Waight Keller reminded us that a key part of denim’s appeal lies in its versatility; it can be punky, prim, functional or flamboyant, and in this instance – worn panelled and pleated in long-line indigo jackets – it was quintessentially Chloé: feminine, effortless and balanced with just a touch of tomboy toughness. Even Mary Katrantzou, renowned for the exquisite artistry of her couture-like creations, recently succumbed to denim’s utilitarian charm, teaming up with American brand Current/Elliott to produce a collaborative collection of vintage-style worn-in jeans and chambray shirts with graphic prints inspired by postage stamps and bank notes. Rag & Bone, one of New York’s premium denim purveyors, offered a similarly directional take, with streamlined, high-rise skinny jeans revealing a linear flash of perforated panelling down the inside leg, while Maison Scotch and 7 For All Mankind led the way when it came to stand-out separates. The 7 For All Mankind founders are also the brains behind Koral, a newly launched denim brand whose USP is “lived-in lengths” ranging from one to 36 months, ’80s-style acid washes and paint-splattered dégradés. Elsewhere, distressing has proved to be an enduring trend; J Brand’s Revenge wash jeans are wornand-torn favourites, while Citizens of Humanity’s skirt has more subtle sandblasting and a lightly frayed hem. For those who find the deluge of new-season styles difficult to navigate, Jeans Therapy – a new in-store service – provides valuable direction for denim devotees and style newbies alike. With a trained team of Jean Therapists well versed in trends and au fait with fits for a multitude of shapes, sizes and sartorial dilemmas, the service is a timely launch. Fashion has got the blues this season, and finding the ever-elusive perfect pair of jeans could be the only answer. HMN
FA SHION
A true GEM
Her bracelets have marked many a friendship, but this season Monica Vinader has a union of her own to celebrate as she joins forces with ethical gemstone company Gemfields. Vinader lets the natural beauty of Gemfields’ rare Zambian emeralds shine, working their organic shapes into oversized cocktail rings and statement earrings. The pieces are set in sterling silver or 18kt yellow-gold vermeil with micropavé diamond surrounds. Her beloved friendship bracelets have been given the Gemfields treatment too; they’re studded with tiny emeralds and diamonds. Earrings £10,075 and ring from £3,425, exclusive to Harrods; friendship bracelets from £650. Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor
Culture club It’s no surprise that Saloni womenswear – loved by the likes of Michelle Obama, Helena Christensen and Cate Blanchett – is characterised by cross-cultural inspiration. Founder Saloni Lodha left her native Mumbai to work in fashion in Hong Kong before relocating to South Korea, then finally settling in London in 2008 and launching her label. This season, ancient Indian artistry is given a modern update as fine zardosi embroidery adds interest to jersey dresses that wouldn’t look out of place at a British tea party. In case of an Indian summer, Saloni’s widelegged silk trousers with hand-painted, jeweltoned floral prints inspired by American artist Georgia O’Keeffe can be worn right through to winter. Dress £340. New to Studio, First Floor
ALEXANDER THE GREAT The rise of Alexander Wang’s star has been rapid by any standard; 10 years ago, the then 19-year-old Parsons student was working parttime on Barneys’ shop floor. In December last year he was appointed Creative Director of the house of Cristóbal Balenciaga, the late Spanish couturier whom Christian Dior called “the master of us all”. Any doubts that Wang’s youth would hinder his ability to helm such a historic house proved baseless; his Autumn/Winter 2013 debut was both confident and cohesive. Sculpted silk crepe jumpsuits and curve-lined dresses peeled open at the back to reveal an unexpectedly artful monochrome marble print, proving there’s more to Alexander Wang than meets the eye. Jumpsuit £1,699 and dress £1,399. Available from International Designer, First Floor
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An interview with ESKANDAR NABAVI by Lindsay Macpherson
Tehran-born, London-based Eskandar Nabavi launched his first women’s knitwear collection in 1993. Since then, the Eskandar brand has expanded to include menswear, ceramics, jewellery and homewares. He explains the inspiration behind the sweaters and silk prints that have earned his label a devoted international following: “My grandmother taught me to knit at a young age. But it wasn’t until I was at university in London that I was inspired by a sweater in a shop window on the King’s Road and decided to knit my first sweater. My initial few pieces gained a lot of interest from my friends, and what was a hobby turned into a career when I established Eskandar 20 years ago. Knitwear is still a key part of every collection I design. For summer, I use light linens and linencotton mixes. The loose shapes let the clothes float away from the body. My Persian heritage is evident in the silhouette of each collection; the long lines, fluid shapes and use of layers reflect traditional Iranian dress. The inspiration for my prints comes mainly from books on textiles and architectural art, and my personal archive of antique costumes. In the summer collection, patterns were influenced by ancient FROM TOP Iznik pottery and Mughal Eskandar tops £690, plasterwork, which break £495 and £885. up solid hues of washed- Available from Designer Classics, out blues and purples. First Floor; and My design style could harrods.com be summed up as “understated luxury with an architectural edge”. I always allow the fabric to determine the shape of the garment; I never force it into a certain style. Fabric quality is important, which is why I’m dedicated to placing as much production as I can within Britain. Also, my mother was English, so I want to support local industries. For me, volume is magical when it transforms a garment into something floaty and elegant, creating an interesting structure and silhouette. As long as the proportions of the outfit are carefully thought out, it doesn’t need to look bulky or impractical.”
AllSaints top £195 and trousers £85
7 For All Mankind jeans £230
Chloé
AllSaints
FA SHION Chloé shirt £875
Citizens of Humanity jacket £575
*EDITOR’S CHOICE
Their cut is classic, but Joe’s Jeans’ innovative new petrol-print jeans are bright, bold and brilliantly offbeat – and make a stylish statement when paired with simple shirts in neutral colours.
Eddie Borgo earrings £189 Monica Vinader ring £190
Joe’s Jeans jeans £210
Denim DAYS
Mother jeans £215
Koral jeans £165 Armani Jeans jeans £145
Panelled and patterned, distressed and dyed – this season, jeans are the go-anywhere favourite AllSaints coat £358, tank top £88 and jeans £85
THE CULT BRAND The signature Houlihan style spawned a thousand imitations but J Brand is a true original. Its signature streamlined styles combine clean lines with a flawless fit – and have inspired a dedicated following.
True Religion shorts £155
J Brand jeans £260 and shorts £235
Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; Designer Collections and International Designer, First Floor; Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor; and harrods.com
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Stylist Becky Branch
AllSaints
AG jeans £175
FA SHION
Ford focus
From films to fragrance, Tom Ford doesn’t do anything half-heartedly. So when he announced he was embracing maximalism for his AW13 return to the runway, expectations were high. Sure enough, he was back with a bang: literally, in the case of the long-line evening dress emblazoned with a bold, comic-book-style sequined blast. Elsewhere, Ford’s eclectic influences culminated in an embroidered kimonostyle coat with mink cuffs and a scarlet lambskin lining that was teamed with a drape-front black pencil skirt embellished with patchwork lace. Trust Ford to prove that, in a season of restrained palettes and minimalism, more – rather than less – is sometimes more. From left Gown £3,250; coat £30,750, top £799 and skirt £4,625. Available from International Designer, First Floor
Style coach As if to underline its all-American heritage, New York label Coach credits an old leather baseball glove as the inspiration for the proprietary tanning technique that allows its handbags to last a lifetime. The latest luxe leathers to get the Coach treatment are alligator and ostrich, which have been used for limited editions of the house’s classic Haley bag. In cobalt, rose, yellow or orange, the bag not only provides a punch to neutral tones, but also develops a rich patina as it ages, giving new meaning to the term “investment buy”. From top Alligator Haley £5,500; Ostrich Haley £5,500; exclusive to Harrods. Available from Luxury Accessories, Lower Ground and Ground Floor. Visit The Handbag Narratives, our display of limited-edition luxury bags, in the Brompton Road windows from 6th July to 24th August.
DESIGN for life
After resolving to become a designer at the tender age of eight, Maria Grachvogel produced her first collection at 14, posing as a 19-year-old in an attempt to show at London Fashion Week. Almost 30 years on, her zeal for design hasn’t diminished, and her latest collection showcases the fluid tailoring and painterly prints that have ensured her longevity as well as legions of fans. Her flair for flattering pattern-cutting is on full display too; the exclusive Bengal dress, hand-painted with a treeof-life pattern, was cut as a single piece of silk, forming a diaphanous and elongating cocoon-like silhouette. Dress £975; exclusive to Harrods. Available from Eveningwear, First Floor; and harrods.com
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My life in shoes “Cool.” Now there’s a word to make a fashion fan’s blood run cold. Hard to define, difficult to miss, and impossible to mimic, there’s nothing less cool than trying too hard. Girl, you’ve either got it or you ain’t. Just to make it even tougher, those fickle fashion gods decree that just when you’ve nailed it, you’re bordering on losing it. The secret to mastering cool is not caring. Or rather, not looking like you care. Bearing that in mind, is it any wonder fashion looks to the street, with its lack of rules, for inspiration? Counterculture – punk, grunge, hip-hop and so on – provides designers with plenty of fodder. And is there any movement that exemplifies insouciant, carefree cool more than skate culture? It’s not surprising fashion wants a piece of the action. Of course, a grown woman attempting to navigate normal adult life will look ludicrous dressed as a Californian teenager. This isn’t about fancy dress; it’s all about tapping into the attitude. Enter trainers, which provide a sartorial shortcut to a hip skate vibe. Take Céline’s Phoebe Philo, the high priestess of contemporary cool, as insanely effortless inspiration in her scuffed-up Nike Air Vortexes paired with tailored trousers and a precisely cut cashmere coat. Then there’s model of the moment Cara Delevingne eschewing heels and party-hopping the globe in a succession of high-tops. Also tapping into the skate-shoe revolution is Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci. For pre-fall 2013 he gives us his interpretation of a Vans-style plimsoll in black or white leather with perforated detailing and studded with crystals. It’s a luxe take on street style; polished, but with a tomboy edge. Imagine throwing them on with tailored cigarette pants and a blazer, or giving a streetwise urban edge to a pencil skirt and sweater. Totally unexpected and utterly laid back, it’s absolute perfection. In Tisci’s hands, these teenage kicks come over all couture. And what could be cooler than that? –By Laura Jordan
Givenchy shoes £460. Available from The Shoe Salon, First Floor
FA SHION
HIGH FLIERS Most horological heavyweights produce a pilot watch, but Zenith’s association with aviation is more than just aesthetic. The Swiss watchmaker has been creating ultra-precise timepieces for navigation since 1909 and is the only company authorised to use the word pilot on its dials. The newest Zenith pilots – which include the 45mm Doublematic and the 2012 Big Date Special – have matt dials and classic styling, making them not just worldtimers, but works of art. Pilots, or even travellers, will appreciate the ease with which they can keep track of time zones; time-keeping pedants will be pleased to know that a quick glance at the watch’s transparent sapphire caseback provides reassurance that the El Primero chronograph movement – the world’s most precise series-made calibre – is still ticking along nicely. From top Doublematic £9,500 and Big Date Special £5,100. Available from The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor
Reverse engineering Is there any garment that has proved its worth more than Moncler’s quilted jacket? In its 59-year history, the coat has been worn to both scale mountains and compete in the Olympics, and its blend of understated styling and allweather functionality works just as well on the slopes of St Moritz as it does on the streets of South Kensington. The perennially popular down-filled style scales new heights of versatility this season as Moncler launches a quilted bomber jacket that can be reversed and worn as a funnel-necked, long-sleeved fur gilet. £1,999; exclusive to Harrods. Available from Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor
Hide and seek
Camouflage is designed to conceal, which is ironic because Valentino’s Rockrunner camo trainers resolutely failed to fall under the radar at the launch of the label’s latest runway collection. In fact, their couture-like craftsmanship and urban styling stole the show, and the rubber-spiked shoes managed to amass a formidable waiting list before they even hit stores. Now, to celebrate the new Men’s International Gallery, the Rockrunner’s contrasting leather- and suede-panelled uppers have been emblazoned at the back with a Union Jack motif. Wallflowers, or those who hope to blend into the foliage, need not apply. £480; exclusive to Harrods. Available from Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor
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THE GROOMING GURU
keeps his cool
When the mercury rises, I raid my grooming armoury for products that refresh and revitalise. If you fancy following suit, it’s worth starting your day with NuBo Cell Dynamic Cooling After Shave Moisturiser SPF 20. Not only does it instantly cool and refresh skin after shaving, it also has sunscreen – an important factor in staying cool since sunburn reduces the skin’s ability to release excess heat. Another great way to – literally – chill is to apply Clinique AntiFatigue Cooling Eye Gel. Its rollerball delivery system makes it especially refreshing; if you want to maximise its cooling power, do as I do and keep it in the fridge. An invigorating spritz like Crème de la Mer The Mist is ideal for travel – and another product that’s particularly good when chilled. Antiperspirant is key to summer freshness, and Lab Series Antiperspirant FROM TOP NuBo Cell Deodorant Stick is Dynamic Cooling After one of my favourites. Shave Moisturiser SPF 20, 30ml, £80; Clinique It’s effective but Anti-Fatigue Cooling Eye unfragranced, so it Gel £22; Crème de la Mer won’t clash with any The Mist 100ml, £50; scent you’re wearing. Lab Series Antiperspirant Speaking of Deodorant Stick £18; Fendi Fan di Fendi Pour Homme fragrances, those Acqua 100ml, £56; James with zingy citrus or Bond 007 Ocean Royale aquatic top notes 125ml, £42, exclusive to tend to feel most Harrods. Available from The Gentleman’s Lounge, refreshing. Fendi’s Lower Ground Floor; The new fragrance, Cosmetics and Perfumery Fan di Fendi Pour Halls, Ground Floor; and Homme Acqua, is harrods.com bursting with notes of bergamot, lemon and pink peppercorn. Or how about the latest James Bond 007 fragrance, Ocean Royale, which evokes sea breezes and beaches, and adds a twist of lime to keep things sparkling? With these essentials, I guarantee you’ll stay fresh and comfortable. As for summer itself – I’m afraid I can’t help you. Lee Kynaston is Online Grooming Editor of menshealth.co.uk and has his own blog at groomingguru.co.uk
FA SHION
Vivienne Westwood coat £899
3.1 Phillip Lim shirt £230
Urban JUNGLE
Moncler jacket £950
Valentino
Soldierly staples command attention with abstract camouflage prints, luxe textures and military styling Valentino trench coat £2,799
1
Alexander McQueen boots £495
item CHOICE £xxxx
In exotic python skin, a camouflage bomber jacket is anything but standard issue. Alexander McQueen jacket £6,599
Acne sweatshirt £195
3.1 Phillip Lim jacket £750
Balmain trousers £725
The POWER BRAND
Valentino satchel £999
*Brand EDITOR’S
Textured camouflage – made by laser-cutting and heat-sealing leather – gives an edge to Valentino’s agenda-setting military- and sportswearinspired SS13 collection.
APC jacket £299
Balenciaga trainers £360
Available from Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor; and Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor
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Stylist Becky Branch
Neil Barrett sweater £299
Maison Martin Margiela sweater £775
3.1 Phillip Lim
Maison Martin Margiela
Alexander McQueen card holder £150
FA SHION I N T E RV IE W
A FINE ROMANCE
A chance encounter brought Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo together. But – with materials and craftsmanship usually reserved for couture – Ralph & Russo’s success is no accident LINDSAY MACPHERSON/ FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER JON COMPSON/ FASHION EDITOR JODIE NELLIST
I
t reads like the opening scene of a romantic comedy: trying to shake off her jet lag with a walk down Fulham Road, aspiring fashion designer Tamara Ralph was taking in her surroundings on her first day in London when – whack! She walked straight into a handsome stranger. Recognising him as a fellow Australian, Ralph stopped to chat and, after finding out they had more in common than their Antipodean accents, friendship – then romance – blossomed. So far, so fairy tale. But the picture-perfect pair’s happily-everafter doesn’t end there; in fact that’s just when the story begins to get interesting. A year later, on the brink of a global recession and against 2007’s fast-fashion zeitgeist, Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo pooled their expertise to launch Ralph & Russo, a couture-focused fledgling fashion label that – against all the odds – triumphed, breaking into the notoriously tricky British fashion industry without any investors, contacts or fashion shows, bridging the gap between haute couture and high fashion with their painstakingly crafted, floor-sweeping gowns and high-octane, unabashed glamour. Today, Ralph & Russo’s labour-of-love dresses are red-carpet regulars, worn by everyone from Angelina Jolie to the Queen of Qatar. And in 2012, just six years after their label’s launch, a silver satin Ralph & Russo dress worn by Beyoncé during her performance at Barack Obama’s inauguration was chosen as one of only 60 to represent the best of British dress design in the V&A’s Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950 exhibition. She might have benefited from some serendipity, but Ralph also has a serious fashion pedigree. Born in Sydney to an engineer father and a mother who worked as a personal stylist and a visual merchandiser
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for high-end department stores, Ralph is the fifth generation of her family to forge a career in fashion. Growing up, she felt destined to work in couture. “I was enamoured with the fantasy of Christian Dior and the romance of Valentino, even through they seemed so far removed from where I lived,” she reflects. Her maternal grandmother schooled her in the sartorial crafts of hand-stitching, draping and embroidery, and later taught her the technical skills of pattern-cutting and tailoring that now underpin the Ralph & Russo brand. “My grandmother was a dressmaker and shoemaker who would make incredible couture-like creations in the middle of her living room,” Ralph says. “I remember how excited I was when she gave me my first tailors’ bust so I could start making my own designs.” At 10, with her grandmother’s help, the budding designer began making clothes for herself, and at 15 she was selling her own designs. By the time Ralph applied to Sydney’s prestigious Whitehouse Institute of Design, she was more accomplished than many graduates in technical skills. Such was the singularity of her design vision that working for another designer wasn’t an option. And in her early twenties, Ralph carved out a niche designing cocktail dresses, bridalwear and tailoring for private clients, eventually saving up enough money to take some time out to explore London. Before his damascene fashion moment, Brisbane-born Russo was a London-based music-industry entrepreneur with a background in finance. But in Ralph’s designs he saw prodigious – and bankable – talent. “I knew absolutely nothing about fashion or the design industry,” he says. “But I had belief in Tamara’s incredible design skills, and her creativity really inspired me. I knew immediately that there X
Portrait Ben McMahon
BY
Ralph & Russo gown £24,000 HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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How to wear
THE NEW BAGS Featuring snakeskin, fur, jewels or pearls, this season’s bags aren’t mere accessories – they’re show-stealers BY LAURA BARTON
Ralph & Russo gown £37,000 Hair BIANCA TUOVI at CLM using Bumble and Bumble Make-up JO FROST at CLM using Clarins Model JADE MEZARD at Elite Deputy Fashion Editor POPPY ROCK Senior Fashion Assistant BECKY BRANCH Art Assistant JEN MYER Photographer’s Assistants LIAM AYLOTT, LAIMONAS STASIULIS and PHILL TAYLOR Available from International Designer and The Shoe Salon, First Floor; and harrods.com . For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app
Many designers might insist that, as Ralph says, “the quality of our product, service and client experience speak for themselves”. But, aside from the brand’s singular celebrity connection in the Minogue sisters (who are still clients), its following has been built almost solely on word on mouth. “We like the fact that we’re still a bit of a well-kept secret,” Russo says. “People have to seek us out.” There are no Ralph & Russo shops, and its only ready-to-wear is an exclusive and strictly limited selection of one-off gowns in-store. The irony is, of course, that despite consciously avoiding being driven by commercial concerns, Ralph & Russo has enjoyed enormous commercial success. The business, says Russo, has been in profit almost since day one and is currently enjoying its third year of triple-digit growth. But that’s not to say it has all been easy: both partners are hands-on, and Ralph admits to regularly putting in 16hour days. Because the brand’s clientele is all over the world, there is never a quiet period, with wedding periods overlapping and awards seasons merging into one. The couple regularly flies to the South of France or Los Angeles for the awards season, acting as stylists and organising make-up, hair and accessories. Despite both insisting that they leave work at work, Russo recalls a recent weekend together that was interrupted at 9am by a phone call from a client. “Three hours later we were on our way to meet her for an emergency pre-event fitting.” When he later claims that “no request is too crazy for us to fulfil”, I’m inclined to believe him. The pair has so far resisted branching out into menswear, in spite of a growing focus on tailoring. However, when touring their atelier, I spy wisps of white embroidery pinned onto a diminutive dummy: the beginnings of a christening gown for their tiniest client. As for the secret of running a business with your partner? Their division of roles helps, as does the fact they’ve grown organically, and that they both insist that if they weren’t doing it together, the day-to-day would be a lot more difficult. “But ultimately,” Ralph says, shooting a glance at her partner, “it’s down to a lot of love.” HMN
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One would never wish to be accused of teaching Grandmother to suck eggs; and it may well be that you feel entirely au fait with the art of carrying a bag. However, bag-carrying is a skill that seems to baffle many women; instead of being a useful, attractive accessory, the bag becomes something cumbersome, spending the evening gripped, vicelike, as you attempt to balance wine glass and canapé. Of course, some bags encourage more inappropriate behaviour than others. The automatic response to Dolce & Gabbana’s bejewelled gold number or Alexander McQueen’s embellished Punk Pearl clutch, for instance, may be to make like one of the Three Kings arriving in Bethlehem, carrying it ever-so-faintly aloft, bestowing upon your evening bag a myrrhish reverence. The trick is not to treat your beautiful bag too preciously. Yes, the Punk Pearl may be wearing its own little crown of pearls, but that does not mean you have to curtsey. Rather, let its regality bring an aristocratic air to your own demeanour. Hook your fingers into its little handle and let it hang lightly, as if this glittering artefact may once have been a gift from some FROM TOP 3.1 Phillip well-ermined European Prince. Lim Ryder bag £1,215; Your snakeskin Lanvin clutch or your 3.1 Phillip Dolce & Gabbana Miss Dolce bag £925; Lim multicoloured fur mini messenger bag require Alexander McQueen a somewhat different attitude. Take your cue from Punk Pearl clutch £2,645; their origins, and carry them as if they are rare and Lanvin Trilogy clutch exotic creatures. Think of yourself not so much as a £1,795; Alexander Wang Racketeer bag £1,170 grande dame with a lapdog as a pirate balancing a parrot on your shoulder. Flaunt your feathers with poise, as if your ownership of this extraordinary object has a fabulous – but never shared – tale attached to it. At the opposite end of the scale to your jewels and exotic beasts, your Alexander Wang mini-tool-bag should not be lugged about in the manner of someone who has just arrived to fix the cistern. Furthermore, just because it has three compartments does not mean you should fill them with spanners, nor even hair clips and spare stockings. Indeed, the key with a utilitarian bag is to carry it as if it is the prettiest little pocketbook; dangle it, dally it, let it swing about. Hold it tenderly, award it its own seat at restaurants and, in quieter moments, coo at it softly, like a turtle dove. With such reverence, even casual onlookers will come to admire its splendour. Available from Luxury Accessories, Lower Ground Floor and Ground Floor; and harrods.com . For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app Laura Barton is a feature writer for The Guardian. She also writes for Q, The Word, Vogue and Red
LUXURY JEWELLERY SPECIAL
LU X U RY JE W ELLERY SPECI A L
Twinkle, twinkle...
Jewellery photography Studio 21
Once upon a time, women waited patiently and unassumingly for handsome young men – often, though not exclusively, on horseback – to present them with jewels. Eyelashes would flutter, a velvet box would spring open and, with a Richard Burton-style flourish, a diamond necklace or an emerald ring or a sapphire tiara would appear, as testament to the esteem in which the recipient was held. This still happens. Occasionally. These days, however, some of us have become a little, shall we say, impatient; and, as Annie and Aretha would say, sisters are doing it for themselves. They’re discovering a whole world of precious and semiprecious pieces. The serious business of jewellery has become altogether more fun, with statement-making pieces saying less about wealth and more about personality. Jewellery designers have responded to this new demand for playful variety with a wealth of pieces that run the gamut from classic to futuristic, with traditional motifs rethought in modern styles, an irreverent mix of multiple metals, and glass, crystal, quartz and gems. The concept of jewellery wardrobing – using your jewels to set the tone of your outfit – is the smart way to get more from your clothing. However, as always where feminine ambiguity is concerned, there’s a caveat. Gentlemen keen to express their adoration should feel free to do so. After all, a girl can never have too many baubles… The new Luxury Jewellery room can be found on the Ground Floor
LU X U RY JE W ELLERY SPECI A L
School of ROCK It’s no great surprise that cult designer Mawi Keivom was once a rebellious teenager. Her punky-yet-pretty jewellery line Mawi may be in its second decade, but it retains a rulebreaking edge. This season Mawi plays to type, breaking convention by launching not one but three collections: the ornate Rebel Romance series of embellished chokers and cascading crystal earrings; Deco Glam, which combines this season’s 1920s patterns with chunky geometric stones; and Rebel Rocks, a subversive collection including a multi-layered emerald crystal necklace with gold-toned studs that carries a hefty dose of Mawi’s too-cool-forschool attitude. Necklace £439; exclusive to Harrods. Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
Queen bee After climbing the career ladder to reach heady heights at Coca-Cola and Microsoft, Ece Şirin did what many dream of doing and set out on her own. However, her business – Bee Goddess – is the antithesis of the companies she once served: the small-scale, Istanbul-based brand produces thoughtfully designed, finely crafted jewellery inspired by spirituality and mythology. Each piece is based on symbols and storytelling: for example a rose gold pendant has seven tiers of pavéd petals and a single diamond in the centre to represent Venus, goddess of love and beauty. Necklace £7,359. Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor
Symbolism features prominently in Diane Kordas’ work. Her first jewellery designs were talismanic evil-eye charms inspired by living in Greece; while her trademark cord bracelets feature simple outlines of lightning bolts, stars or crucifixes in fine diamond pavé. Recently Kordas has added more elaborate designs to her repertoire, such as a rose gold Arabesque ring with an intricate white diamond filigree motif. But her beloved symbols haven’t been eschewed entirely: an edgier 18kt black gold version has subtle pavéd peace emblems that are only visible from the side. Rose gold ring £3,525 and black gold ring £3,675. Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
Just because Shaun Leane is famed for his outré commissions – think the £1.2m diamond and chain-mail glove he designed for Daphne Guinness, or his macabre Spine corset for Alexander McQueen’s 1998 show – doesn’t mean he can’t do wearable. A case in point is the Cherry Blossom collection of romantic earrings, cocktail rings and necklaces in which Leane renders Japanese cherry flowers in delicate rose gold. White pearls represent the closed buds, while creamy ivory enamel offset with brilliant white diamonds depicts each blossom. Earrings £1,350. Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
Elizabeth Taylor Getty Images; cherry blossoms iStockphoto
Symbolic link
CHERRY PICKED
STONE AGE
ROYAL blue
Cleopatra’s love of jewels is almost as legendary as her fabled beauty, so she would surely approve of being the source of inspiration behind the latest collection from MCL. The brand’s founder, New York designer Matthew Campbell Laurenza, is known for his extravagantly embellished, sapphire-encrusted jewellery. A standout piece in his Cleopatra line of abstract armlets and colourful cuffs is a golden scarab amulet, a sacred symbol of renewal in ancient mythology. The scarab sits atop a bold gold-plated bangle that’s enamelled – in a fitting tribute to the last queen of Egypt – in a brilliant Egyptian blue. Cuff £3,175. Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor
Past master
Her vividly coloured gemstone jewellery designs are up-to-the-minute, but the production methods behind Michela Panero’s Rosantica line are anything but modern. Gems are attached to fine brass fittings using an ancient wire-wrapping technique, while other stones are hand-knotted on silk thread – an old artisan approach usually reserved for precious pearls. While the process is time consuming – it takes four days of patient wire-wrapping to make some necklaces in the collection – the results, which include a cagedonyx pendant with gem-studded gold rosary fringing, are undoubtedly worth the wait. Necklace £519. Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor
Leonardo da Vinci said that simplicity is the ultimate form of sophistication. New Yorkbased jeweller Meira T is obviously of the same school of thought; her rough-cut-stone collection is a masterclass in uncomplicated, understated jewellery design. Single slices of emerald, sapphire, ruby, amazonite, labradorite or opal are finished with either a band of gold or a halo of diamonds. From left Necklaces £950 and £850. Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
Beautiful creatures She’s mastered the art of effortless, wear-anywhere jewellery with her signature woven bracelets, but Carolina Bucci’s newest must-have is inspired by nature. Combining a heritage of Florentine craftsmanship with her knack for contemporary design, Bucci’s owl pendant has opal eyes and 14kt gold plumage dotted with tiny diamonds in shades of Champagne, white, purple and grey. Pendant £4,785. Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor
TWINKLE,
TWINKLE
Little stars take note: the latest luxury jewellery collections are a riot of colourful gems, shimmering precious metals and innovative designs
IPPOLITA EARRINGS 18kt gold Polished Rock Candy Snowman earrings in Mint Chrysoprase £699, and 18kt gold Modern Rock Candy Gelato cascade earrings in Riviera Sky £3,350; RINGS 18kt gold Rock Candy Gelato six-stone cluster ring in Riviera Sky £1,525, and 18kt gold Polished Rock Candy party ring in Pisa £3,199; NECKLACE 18kt gold Rock Candy Lollitini long necklace £3,599
PROMOTION
CARAT NECKLACE Sterling
silver with white and yellow Asscher-cut flower necklace £1,059; EARRINGS Sterling silver with yellow pear-cut drop earrings £165, and sterling silver with princess- and pear-cut borderset drop earrings £319; BRACELET Gold-plated sterling silver with yellow and white pear- and marquise-cut bracelet £525; RINGS Sterling silver and pink emerald-cut borderset ring £259, 9kt white gold and white pear-cut borderset cocktail ring £617, and 9kt white gold and yellow radiant-cut trilogy cocktail ring £625
MONICA VINADER NECKLACES Riva collection 18kt gold-plated vermeil on sterling silver large plain Ingot pendant £125, worn on 18kt gold-plated vermeil on sterling silver small Lungo chain £150, and Riva collection 18kt gold-plated vermeil on sterling silver and diamond Shore pendant £295 on small Lungo chain (as before); EARRINGS Riva collection 18kt gold-plated vermeil on sterling silver, diamond and lemon quartz cocktail earrings £450; RINGS Riva collection 18kt gold-plated vermeil on sterling silver, diamond and lemon quartz Double ring £295, Riva collection 18kt gold-plated vermeil on sterling silver and lemon quartz Stick ring £120, and Riva collection 18kt gold-plated vermeil on sterling silver, diamond and lemon quartz cocktail ring £220
PROMOTION
ASTLEY CLARKE NECKLACES 18kt
rose gold, diamond pavé and white moonstone cabochon Baby Astley pendant £3,500, and 18kt rose gold, grey diamond pavé and chequerboard-cut grey milky aquamarine Mini Connie pendant £3,300; EARRINGS 18kt gold, cognac diamond pavé and ruby slice Connie earrings £5,100, and 18kt rose gold, grey diamond pavé and chequerboard-cut grey milky aquamarine Mini Connie earrings £4,250; RINGS 18kt gold, diamond pavé, quartz and ruby slice Mini Connie ring £2,750, 18kt rose gold, diamond pavé and white moonstone cabochon Mini Astley ring £2,500, and 18kt white gold, grey diamond pavé, quartz and hematite slice Connie ring £3,950
ETERNAME NECKLACE 18kt yellow gold, brown diamond and red agate Carmin necklace £1,340; RING 18kt yellow gold, brown diamond and red agate Carmin ring £6,299, EARRINGS 18kt yellow gold and red agate Carmin earrings £2,560, and 18kt rose gold and brown diamond Lunaria earrings £2,899; BRACELET 18kt rose gold and brown diamond Lunaria bracelet £9,299
PROMOTION
THOMAS SABO PENDANTS 18kt rose gold-plated sterling silver large Arabesque disc pendant from £129 and small Arabesque disc pendant £67, 18kt rose gold-plated
sterling silver and zirconia pavé flower pendant £49.95, mother-of-pearl disc pendant £34.95, sterling silver and onyx teardrop pendant £24.95, 18kt rose gold-plated sterling silver cut-out rose pendant £119, sterling silver cut-out rose pendant £86, sterling silver and blackened zirconia pavé cut-out rose pendant £134, 18kt rose gold-plated sterling silver and zirconia pavé cross pendant £49.95, and sterling silver letter D pendant £18.95
LINKS OF LONDON NECKLACES Hope
18kt gold double pendant with pavé diamonds £2,100, and Hope white topaz pendant £225; RINGS Hope 18kt gold double ring with diamonds £2,300, Entwine 18kt gold ring £850, and Entwine 18kt gold ring with pavé diamonds £1,700; EARRINGS Hope white topaz earrings £275, and Infinite Love 18kt gold and amethyst earrings with pavé diamonds £1,300
PROMOTION
MARCO BICEGO EARRINGS 18kt gold five-stone Murano earrings £2,420; NECKLACE 18kt gold Murano necklace £6,920; BRACELET 18kt gold three-strand Murano bracelet £10,680; RINGS 18kt gold three-stone Murano ring £1,970, and 18kt gold two-stone Murano ring £2,200
PROMOTION
STEPHEN WEBSTER EARRINGS Deco Haze drop earrings in 18kt white gold with pavé diamonds, quartz and hematite £7,400, and Couture Voyage New York 18kt white gold and white pavé diamond earrings £51,500; BRACELET Couture Voyage New York 18kt white gold and white pavé diamond bracelet £98,000; RINGS Deco Haze 18kt white gold with pavé diamonds, quartz and hematite cocktail ring £13,200, Deco Haze long finger ring in 18kt white gold with black pavé diamonds, quartz and black opal £12,800, Fly By Night Crystal Haze BatMoth ring in 18kt white gold with black pavé diamonds, quartz and black opal £6,950, and Forget Me Knot Barb wrap ring in 18kt white gold with white pavé diamonds £13,600; NECKLACE Forget Me Knot Crystal Haze pendant in 18kt white gold with white pavé diamonds, quartz and black opal £6,600
Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app
Mulberry Willow tote £3,000, Toscana jacket £1,500, Aurora skirt £1,500 and Dorset boots £550
FA SHION
THE BIG BAG THEORY
Need an excuse to invest in the latest, most desirable bags? It’s a new fashion season. Ladylike is everywhere. Structure is vital. Elaborate texture is a must… PHOTOGRAPHER LUCIA GIACANI / FASHION EDITOR
JODIE NELLIST HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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THIS PAGE Fendi 2Jours bag £17,500,
exclusive to Harrods, and dress £1,700; Alexander McQueen shoes £995; OPPOSITE PAGE Burberry Prorsum bag £1,895, trench coat £1,595 and shoes from a selection
THIS PAGE Prada bag, price
on request; black top (worn underneath) £395, top £540, skirt £505, belt £200 and shoes £550; OPPOSITE PAGE Gucci Lady Lock Bamboo bag £15,260 and dress £1,820; Charlotte Olympia shoes £595
FA SHION
THIS PAGE Stella McCartney Falabella Fringe tote £1,385, exclusive to Harrods; sweater £495, skirt £699 and shoes £510; OPPOSITE PAGE Chloé Baylee bag £1,325, shirt £1,299, skirt £775 and shoes £570
Hair KEIICHIRO HIRANO at DWM Make-up JOSE BASS at Frank Agency using Chanel Model LIZZIE TOVELL at Tess Management Junior Fashion Assistant OLIVIA HALSALL Photographer’s Assistant JAMIE BOWERING
Available from Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor; Designer Studio, International Designer and The Shoe Salon, First Floor; and harrods.com . Visit The Handbag Narratives, our display of limited-edition luxury bags, in the Brompton Road windows from 6th July to 24th August. For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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FA SHION
Paradise FOUND
The transition between seasons is made all the simpler when a summery shade sidles into the winter wardrobe. In lace, Lycra, suede and chiffon, white is now a year-round classic PHOTOGRAPHER DIEGO MERINO / FASHION EDITOR JODIE NELLIST
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Alessandra Rich dress £1,750; Jimmy Choo shoes £775
THIS PAGE Dolce & Gabbana shirt £775 and skirt £1,150; OPPOSITE PAGE Chanel dress from a selection
FA SHION
FA SHION THIS PAGE Rachel Gilbert dress £1,399; Miu Miu sunglasses £190; OPPOSITE PAGE Robert Rodriguez jacket £425 and trousers £275
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FA SHION
THIS PAGE Alberta Ferretti blouse £1,050; OPPOSITE PAGE Elie Saab jacket £1,225 and dress £1,915
Hair & Make-up KENNETH SOH at Frank Agency using Kanebo Sensai and Bumble and Bumble Model MAXIME VAN DER HEIJDEN at Models 1 Junior Fashion Assistant OLIVIA HALSALL Photographer’s Assistant SIMON MCGUIGAN Special thanks to Gaya Island Resort, Borneo Available from Eveningwear, International Designer, The Shoe Salon, Studio and Sunglasses, First Floor; and harrods.com . For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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FA SHION
Who pays the FERRYMAN?
Welcome the new uniform of a true adventurer: khaki military staples worn with vintage-style jeans, soft cottons and cashmeres. Indiana Jones, eat your heart out PHOTOGRAPHER DIEGO MERINO/ MENSWEAR FASHION EDITOR MITCHELL BELK
Prada cashmere sweater £535; James Perse shirt £239; Orlebar Brown trousers £210; Christys’ hat £109; Kurt Geiger boots £110
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FA SHION
THIS PAGE Neil Barrett T-shirt £169; Dolce & Gabbana jeans £260; Persol sunglasses £284.99; Harrods of London handkerchief £49.95; OPPOSITE PAGE Maison Martin Margiela coat from a selection; Saint Laurent T-shirt £400; Dolce & Gabbana jeans £260; Harrods of London belt £99.95
THIS PAGE Burberry Prorsum coat £1,799; APC jacket £399; Maison Martin Margiela trousers £625; OPPOSITE PAGE Belstaff shirt £160; APC T-shirt £69.95 and trousers £179; Christys’ hat £109; Harrods of London scarf £169; Bally shoes from a selection
FA SHION
THIS PAGE McQ Alexander McQueen jacket £2,199; Diesel T-shirt £59.95; Burberry Prorsum bag £899; OPPOSITE PAGE Orlebar Brown shorts £175
Grooming KENNETH SOH at Frank Agency using Clinique, Clarisonic and Bumble and Bumble Model TONY BRYAN at FM Fashion Assistant OLIVIA HALSALL Photographer’s Assistant SIMON MCGUIGAN Special thanks to Gaya Island Resort, Borneo Available from Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor; Sports, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com . For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app
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FRAGRANCE EXPLOSION
BE AU T Y Almost all the women I meet strive to be as strong and dynamic as they are soft and feminine. It is this duality that has inspired Estée Lauder to create its new fragrance, Modern Muse. The scent encapsulates this by striking the perfect pitch of a strong wood and musk core, wrapped in softer layers of jasmine, tuberose and lily. 100ml, £86 Niche fragrance collective L’Artisan Parfumeur has done something extraordinary in its latest launch. Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour has created three fragrances based purely on instinct to demonstrate the emotive power of perfume. The resulting Explosions d’Emotions scents – Skin on Skin, Déliria and Amour Nocturne – contain floral, foodie and feelgood notes for an evocative collection. 125ml, £135 each
HIGH FIVE
Lily, jasmine & rose iStockphoto
Such is the force with which we’ve embraced all things olfactory this summer, we’ve named it our Fragrance Explosion season. To whet fragrance fanatics’ appetites, some of the world’s most celebrated perfumers will be in-store to impart the wisdom of their craft in a series of special talks. Also discover exclusive fragrances that have been created especially for us, starting with my top five. Marigay McKee, Fashion and Beauty Director, Harrods Ltd
Imagine English eccentricity bottled and you have new fragrance brand Atkinsons. The house – originally established in 1799, when James Atkinson was official perfumer to the Royal Family – has been revived for a new generation. The company’s hero fragrance, 24 Old Bond Street, is a fresh, green unisex cologne that embodies British charm, style and, of course, a little quirkiness. 100ml, £80
To pay tribute to our summer fragrance extravaganza, Robert Piguet’s perfumer has created a scent inspired by and dedicated to Harrods. Knightsbridge opens with suitably opulent notes of nutmeg and rose that slowly give way to a mellow heart accord of sandalwood and orris. As this softens, the dry-down reveals a sultry trail of leather and Tonka bean. 100ml, £150
Chypre fragrances are having a moment. One of the most elegant modern interpretations is Giorgio Armani’s new scent Sì, inspired by the fragrances his mother wore. The opening citrus accord typical of chypres (here bergamot and mandarin) is followed by a floral burst of rose, neroli and jasmine and a warm, chypre dry-down of woods and musk with a little vanilla. 100ml, £85 All products are exclusive to Harrods. Available from The Beauty Apothecary and The Cosmetics and Perfumery Halls, Ground Floor; and harrods.com HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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CLIVE CHRISTIAN No 1 for Women Only one fragrance can take the top spot as the world’s most expensive olfactive creation, and that accolade goes to Clive Christian’s No 1. The fragrance, recognised by Guinness World Records, comprises some of the planet’s most costly ingredients in their highest possible concentrations. For this reason, only 1,000 bottles are produced every year. The fragrance opens with a fresh burst of bergamot that leads into an exotic floral accord of orchid, jasmine, rose, iris and ylangylang. Orris, vanilla, amber and woods then finish the fragrance with a creamy dry-down. Perfume spray 50ml, £430
Fragrance explosion In olfactory circles, high summer means only one thing: the arrival of the headiest, sultriest, most opulent fragrances that are just bursting out of their bottles PHOTOGRAPHER CHRIS TURNER
PROMOTION
PERFUME CALLIGRAPHY Rose Such was the success of 2012’s Perfume Calligraphy, the fragrance house is expanding the collection with the addition of the unisex Perfume Calligraphy Rose this summer. The new accord is based on rose absolute from the Middle East, and combines the ancient arts of perfumery and calligraphy. Graphic designer Tarek Atrissi has illustrated the flacon with the word “rose” in Arabic. Inside, the rich fragrance opens with saffron and honeysuckle, while lavender and musk mingle with rose into a lingering heart and dry-down. Eau de toilette 110ml, £125
PROMOTION
CRABTREE & EVELYN Ottoman Rose An exotic mood has swept through Crabtree & Evelyn’s perfumery. For 2013, the brand is launching a four-strong collection inspired by the Middle East: Perfumes of the Night Garden. Each of the fragrances is centred on a key note relevant to the region. Assam Oudh pays tribute to the rare and heady wood; Kashmir Musk is a soft and seductive accord; Persian Thé is smoky and warm; and Ottoman Rose (pictured) is a rich interpretation of the velvety floral note. Eau de parfum 100ml, £140. Exclusive to Harrods; available from 15th August
THIERRY MUGLER Angel It’s the fragrance that captivated a generation; the perfume that all perfumers wish they had dreamed up. Angel by Thierry Mugler – the original gourmand fragrance – launched at a time when no one believed people would be interested in a fragrance inspired by notes of caramel, chocolate and a hint of vanilla. Twenty-one years on, Angel and its fantastical accord, which evokes memories of childhood and magical daydreams, is more successful than ever, and has cemented its place in the fragrance hall of fame. Eau de parfum 100ml refillable, £109 Available from The Beauty Apothecary and Perfumery Hall, Ground Floor; and Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie, Fifth Floor. For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app
BE AU T Y
Senses working overtime
Five of the world’s most successful perfumers reflect on the people, places and memories that have inspired their fragrance genius BY FLEUR FRUZZA FRAGRANCE ILLUSTRATIONS JESSICA MAY UNDERWOOD
CHRISTINE NAGEL
CV: Jo Malone Peony & Blush Suede Cologne; Eau de Cartier; Narciso Rodriguez For Her; Dolce & Gabbana The One Describe the moment you realised you wanted to be a perfumer. I’m unusual in the industry; I don’t come from a family of perfumers, and I didn’t start working until I was 37. Years ago, I was working in organic-chemistry research at Firmenich. I observed the perfumers there and realised theirs was the job I wanted. I left to train under Michel Almairac. He was inspiring. From him I learned the art of simplicity: to use few pure, raw materials, with each one being essential. What do you consider to be your breakthrough fragrance? Probably Eau de Cartier in 2001. It’s an eau de cologne with the values of a perfume. After that, Narciso Rodriguez, which I co-created with Francis Kurkdjian in 2003. And, more recently, Jo Malone; working with that brand has changed my life. Is perfumery a science or an art? For me, it’s both. I’m not an artist but an artisan. It’s a process of expertise that I adapt creatively depending on who I’m working with. What has been your latest project? Jo Malone Peony & Blush Suede Cologne. I started with a Cecil Beaton photograph of a debutante; it made me want to create a fragrance with peony. I created a few variations and presented them to the team. Jo Malone doesn’t do mass-market testing – decisions are made on instinct. It gives me a creative freedom that is rare in perfumery today. What fragrance do you wish you had created? That’s easy. Féminité du Bois by Shiseido. Christopher Sheldrake, who now works with Chanel, created it in 1992. It’s beautiful. What’s the hardest fragrance commission you’ve ever had? All those I’ve lost out on! It’s really tough to see a brand go with a different scent, especially if you believe you’ve found the perfect accord. What’s the most exquisite thing you have ever smelled? My children’s skin when they were babies.
FRANCIS KURKDJIAN
CV: Carven Le Parfum; Elie Saab Le Parfum; Jean Paul Gaultier Le Male; Lanvin Rumeur; Lancôme Miracle Homme Describe the moment you realised you wanted to be a perfumer. At 14, I read a piece about perfumers in a glossy French magazine. It was a true revelation. I found out that the couturier was not the one creating his perfumes. There were people, and a very special craft, behind it. Perfume is the ultimate emotional accessory; it builds so many memories. After that, I decided I would become a perfumer. What do you consider to be your breakthrough fragrance? Le Male, by Jean Paul Gaultier. I was 25 – it was my first assignment out of school. It became a worldwide success within two years. What is it about your approach that has made you successful? I’m passionate about what I do. My creations tell the truth. They’re genuine. They don’t lie to people. I believe it’s my strength. Is perfumery a science or an art? It takes the art of science and the science of art to be a good perfumer. If money were no object, what is your ultimate ingredient? Orris absolute is the most expensive note in the world. It costs about €75,000 per kilo. It’s important to differentiate iris (the flower) from orris (the root of the plant). Perfumers use the roots as the flowers have barely any smell. The one traditionally used is from Florence and is, weight for weight, more expensive than gold. What’s the most exquisite thing you have ever smelled? Last week I smelled a new mimosa extract from the French Riviera. Divine! I’m already looking for the fragrance to use it in.
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THIERRY WASSER
CV: Guerlain Shalimar Ode à la Vanille; Dior Addict; Lancôme Hypnôse; Guerlain Idylle; Calvin Klein Truth Who inspired you as you learned your trade? Two people have been very important to me: Edmond Buri, who was my teacher when I was a herbalist student; he pushed me to enter the Givaudan Perfumery School; and Jean Hadorn, a Givaudan perfumer who was present during my years with the school. What do you consider to be your breakthrough fragrance? It’s a perfume I created in another lifetime: Dior Addict in 2002. It has allowed me to know what success is. What is it about your approach that has made you successful? Oh my god, I wish I knew so I could continue to be so! What continues to motivate you? Perfumery is a way to express yourself, and as long as you feel like doing so, you continue. What fragrance do you wish you had created? Surely Mitsouko, created by Jacques Guerlain in 1919; it’s a marvellous chypre, and was the first to contain a peach note. Is perfumery a science or an art? What does science have to do with an emotional creation? I’m not a chemist. I don’t just mix ingredients. All my perfumes reflect my mood, my sensibility – like a painting does. It’s totally subjective. I create them with my heart, personality and spirit. What’s the most exquisite thing you have ever smelled? An apricot pie baking in the oven. If you hadn’t become a perfumer, what would you have become? A conductor. I love classical music and I spend nearly all my free time listening to it.
BERTRAND DUCHAUFOUR
CV: L’Artisan Parfumeur Explosions d’Émotions; Acqua di Parma Cipresso di Toscana; Christian Dior Fahrenheit Fresh Describe the moment you realised you wanted to be a perfumer. One of my first girlfriends collected perfume and wore Chanel No19. I loved it. It opened my eyes to fragrance and its possibilities, which until that point had, for me, been something rare and inaccessible. I fell out of love with the girl – but not with perfume. Who inspired you as you learned your trade? At the beginning, I just wanted to learn. It was like a dream to me – a huge world opening up my mind – and I spent hours memorising every raw material. That in itself inspired me. It was like being an artist who is presented with many colours but hasn’t yet quite learned how to paint. The potential of discovery seemed endless. Is perfumery a science or an art? For me, the creation of perfume is pure and irrational – it’s an artistic creation. I consider myself an artist. What I think is interesting is how, unlike art, perfumers create fragrance – but we don’t own it. A brand can do as they wish with a fragrance we create, meaning it can change dramatically over time. It’s an art form that doesn’t stand still. What exciting projects are you working on? Explosions d’Émotions for L’Artisan Parfumeur has been really exciting to work on. The team wanted to try a very new approach to perfume creation. It’s crazy, actually. I’ve been able to use ingredients I’ve never used before, and I’ve also used notes that I’ve worked with previously but in completely different quantities – overdosing on some of them. The idea was to achieve an emotion through these accords – it’s very, very difficult and very subjective. But ultimately I surprised myself with the end result. We’ll see if it’s a success. X HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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BE AU T Y
Fragrance EXPLOSION MEET THE PERFUMERS In an unprecedented olfactory event, during August and September a selection of the world’s most famous perfumers will be in-store offering talks, masterclasses and one-to-one consultations
AURÉLIEN GUICHARD
CV: Knightsbridge de Robert Piguet; Versace Eros; Gucci Guilty; Ricci Ricci by Nina Ricci; Issey Miyake Pleats Please Describe the moment you realised you wanted to be a perfumer. I’m a seventh-generation perfumer, so it was kind of inevitable. But when I was 14, I was having dinner with my parents, and one of their guests was a lady who was much older than me. I didn’t really notice her until, at the end of the evening, I helped her with her coat and I got the trail of her fragrance. It was Guerlain’s L’Heure Bleue. All of a sudden, I thought her really desirable and, in that moment, I realised the magic of fragrance; it’s amazingly transformative. I wanted to create some of that magic. Who inspired you as you learned your trade? My grandfather, who dedicated his life to growing flowers. We have rose and jasmine fields in Grasse, and he trained me in the role of nature in our work. He gave me a respect for raw materials. What do you consider to be your breakthrough fragrance? It’s difficult to say. Early in my career, when I was 24, I did some Guerlain and Nina Ricci fragrances. But the ones that people refer to now are Gucci Guilty, Gucci by Gucci and Ricci Ricci. What is it about your approach that has made you successful? My teacher at Givaudan used to tell me that in order to be a good perfumer you have to be humble, hardworking, happy and spontaneous. I also observe people a lot; they inspire me, and I try to be intuitive off the back of this. I want to create emotion, and when we overthink it, it gets complicated. Is perfumery a science or an art? My job is not about mixing ingredients; it’s about having an idea and trying to express it. For me, it’s about art, not science. And, like a dress, a fragrance only comes alive when worn by the right woman. It’s a magical and unpredictable moment. What’s the most exquisite thing you have ever smelled? Can I have three things? Centifolia rose when it’s just been picked from the tree; it’s amazing in terms of purity and complexity. A field of jasmine in the evening; the air is full of its rich, dark, and beautiful scent. And waking up on a boat in the morning – the smell of the early morning sun on the sea, combined with the smell of coffee. For me, it’s wonderful. HMN Available from The Beauty Apothecary and The Perfumery Hall, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
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The woman who gave the world Touche Éclat introduces her fragrance line, followed by a Q&A. Signed illustrations of her fragrance bottles will be available with any purchase on the day. £30 Wednesday 28th August at 3pm and 6pm Crabtree & Evelyn Perfumers from Crabtree & Evelyn will be introducing the brand’s new collection of four fragrances inspired by the Middle East: Perfumes of the Night Garden. £25 Thursday 29th August, 3pm–6pm Stéphane Humbert for 777
Tuesday 3rd September, 3pm–5pm Christine Nagel for Jo Malone Celebrated perfumer Christine Nagel reveals her latest muchanticipated creation for niche British fragrance house Jo Malone. £50 Wednesday 4th September, 3pm–5pm Linda Pilkington for Ormonde Jayne The founder of boutique fragrance house Ormonde Jayne introduces her new Four Corners collection, and challenges attendees to make their own cologne. The best cologne wins a bottle of Champagne. A hand-blown flacon of pure parfum is available with purchases of over £100. £40
Perfumer Stéphane Humbert combines a whisky tasting with fragrance sampling to exclusively introduce 777’s two new fragrances. Signed bottles available. £30
Thursday 5th September at 8pm Thierry Wasser for Guerlain
Friday 30th August, 3pm–6pm Shelagh Foyle for Floris
Friday 6th September, 12pm–4.30pm Michel Almairac for Chloé
Join Shelagh Foyle for a fragrance masterclass introducing Floris’ new fragrances Patchouli and Cherry Blossom and enjoy a book on British perfumery with any purchase. £30
World-renowned perfumer Thierry Wasser will be taking part in a Q&A. £40
Olfactory legend Michel Almairac talks about how he created Chloé’s signature scent. A flacon-engraving service will also be available. £20
All booking fees are redeemable against purchases made on the date of the event. For more information, call 020 7730 1234 and ask for the relevant brand.
Cinnamon sticks, flowers and leaves Alamy, Getty Images and iStockphoto
Tuesday 27th August at 6pm Terry de Gunzberg
Flights of fantasy Enchanting orange blossom, velvety rose and heady ylang-ylang infuse summer’s new, limited-edition and classic fragrances PHOTOGRAPHER OMER KNAZ
GUERLAIN La Petite Robe Noire Party Edition More a Parisian girl about town than a fragrance, Guerlain’s La Petite Robe Noire has a personality all of its own; and for summer 2013, she’s had a wardrobe update. Guerlain has created a collector’s-edition flacon featuring the Parisienne in a cocktail frock and stilettos. Inside, the fragrance is the same playful accord of rose, black cherry and patchouli. Eau de parfum 50ml, £60
PROMOTION
CARON My Ylang Since its opening in 1905, the House of Caron has blazed a trail in modern perfumery; its triumphs include the first non-floral fragrance: 1919’s Tabac Blond. Most recently, in-house perfumer Richard Fraysse has developed My Ylang. The fragrance is a seasonal balance of summer fruits, heady flowers such as ylang-ylang and jasmine, and creamy vanilla. Eau de parfum 100ml, £105
CAROLINA HERRERA CH Eau de Parfum Sublime
ROBERTO CAVALLI Oud Edition
When Carolina Herrera was creating CH Eau de Parfum Sublime, she was inspired by all the characteristics she believes make a woman irresistible. The scent evokes elegance, femininity, wit and sensuality through a modern chypre accord of rose, passionflower, orchid and patchouli. Eau de parfum 80ml, £66
One of the world’s most precious ingredients was sought out to create an “haute couture” edition of Roberto Cavalli’s signature scent: oud. This rare wood gives depth and sensuality to the fragrance, while retaining the fresh, warm orange blossom and vanilla notes of the original. Eau de parfum 75ml, £130
JAMES BOND 007 Quantum Such was the success of last year’s James Bond 007 fragrance launch – and the subsequent Ocean Royale – that the brand is adding a third espionage-inspired scent to its collection. Quantum has been developed to suit adrenaline-packed occasions. An energy boost comes from its top notes of juniper berries and bergamot; mental focus is aided by violet leaves and lavender; and composure comes from vetiver and sandalwood. Eau de toilette 125ml, £42
VERSACE Eros As its Medusa logo demonstrates, Greek mythology has been important to the House of Versace since it opened in 1978. In 2013, this comes in the form of Greek god Eros, who has inspired the Italian house’s latest fragrance of the same name. The scent for men celebrates the male body through strength, love and beauty; it does this with a crisp opening of mint and lemon, followed by sultry tonka bean, vanilla and wood notes. Eau de toilette 100ml, £62
PROMOTION
ATKINSONS The Nuptial Bouquet A British fragrance house that can claim provenance and eccentricity in equal measure, Atkinsons, established in 1799, has been revived for a new generation. Today, fragrances from the original house – like The Nuptial Bouquet – are being reissued. The scent is inspired by Queen Victoria’s wedding flowers, and its fresh fusion of green and white florals – lily of the valley and myrtle – creates a beautifully romantic accord. Eau de toilette 100ml, £95
MICHAEL KORS Collection Some fashion houses become bigger than a brand; Michael Kors has become a lifestyle. Kors’ glossy, Manhattan-chic aesthetic inspires an attitude that the designer has captured in his new collection of fragrances. Sporty Citrus is intensely fresh, with a hint of warm woods; Glam Jasmine is an overtly feminine floral; and Sexy Amber is warm and seductive. Eau de parfum 100ml, £75
PROMOTION
BOADICEA THE VICTORIOUS Almas British brand Boadicea the Victorious goes to great lengths to source the most precious and exceptional ingredients for its fragrances. Fittingly, then, its scent Almas, which contains saffron, Cambodian oud and Indian jasmine – and translates as “diamond” in Arabic – is a sultry and enveloping accord. Pure perfume 100ml, £495
CREED Millésime 1849 Family-run house Creed counts Queen Victoria among its historic patrons. It was during Victoria’s reign that Harrods first opened its doors in 1849, so Creed looked to the era when creating its latest perfume – a scent dedicated to the world-renowned store. Millésime 1849 – meaning vintage 1849 – is a unisex accord with notes of jasmine, ylang-ylang and patchouli, anchored by vanilla, oud and musk. Eau de parfum 75ml, £225
PROMOTION
MOLTON BROWN Mahina New to Molton Brown’s Navigations Through Scent is Mahina, a French Polynesia-inspired fragrance crafted with notes that evoke easy, sun-drenched island living. Tiare flower, ylangylang, vanilla and cedarwood combine in a beautifully warm and bright unisex scent. Eau de parfum 50ml, £60
CHLOÉ How very Chloé to have created a fragrance that has become as sought-after as its bags. The fashion house’s eponymous signature scent, launched in 2008, has entered the olfactory canon. It captures the elegance and femininity of the Chloé woman through a central velvety rose and magnolia accord flanked by a powdery opening of peony and freesia, and a warm dry-down of amber. Eau de parfum 75ml, £67
MISS HEAVEN SCENT gets exclusive
One of the reasons I enjoy trying out perfumes is that there are always intriguing exclusives to discover. Take Givenchy’s new Ambre Velours, an addition to the delicate, aristo-chic Eaudemoiselle line. It has all the essence of the original rose version but is softened by sensual plum, sweetened with honey and warmed by the richness of amber. Rose absolute also stars in the new unisex fragrance from Aramis – Perfume Calligraphy Rose – which looks to the Middle East for its inspiration. It opens with accents of saffron and honeysuckle petals, energised with oregano leaves. Precious balms and resins – including myrrh, styrax and olibanum – wrap around Turkish rose. Looking at the ingredients list, I thought it might deliver quite a thwack, but it strikes a much more mysterious note… and is also blissfully unsweet. Just as intriguing are Les Parisiens – a quintet of re-editions from Guerlain’s back catalogue, requested by those desperate to be reacquainted with a long-lost fragrance love. While they are aimed primarily at men, they are not shoutyshouty he-man brews. Chamade Pour Homme bursts with the vibrancy of bergamot, violet leaves and hyacinth, leaving a trail of vetiver and leather; it’s exhilarating and confident in equal measure. Derby, effervescent at first, dries down to a seductively smoky, autumn-leafy scent. For women, the perfumes in the Les Parisiennes collection also hail from Guerlain’s rich heritage. The sweet warmth of Mon Précieux Nectar is beautifully balanced by a praline-esque bitteralmond note. And new Nuit d’Amour is a powdery, flirty floral. Both are housed in a signature Guerlain bottle adorned with bees, and come complete with a vintage-style puffer. Adorable. Also exciting is the rebirth of FROM TOP Givenchy Ambre fragrance house Atkinsons. To give Velours 100ml, £92; Aramis you a mini history lesson: in 1799, Perfume Calligraphy Rose James Atkinson left the north-west 100ml, £115; Guerlain Chamade Pour Homme 100ml, of England to establish himself in £150, Derby 100ml, £150, London as a perfumer. He created Mon Précieux Nectar an all-purpose rose-scented pomade 125ml, £168 and Nuit containing bear grease, and legend has d’Amour 125ml, £168; it that a real bear sat outside his first Atkinsons 24 Old Bond premises. Undaunted by such a sentinel, Street 100ml, £80. All fragrances exclusive customers flocked to his store and his to Harrods. Available fame spread far and wide, especially from The Cosmetics when he became the official perfumer and Perfumery to the Royal Family. Halls, Ground Floor; and harrods.com Now there’s a new collection and, thankfully, an emblematic scent – 24 Old Bond Street – inspired by his original English eau de cologne. The name recalls the site of his illustrious shop of yesteryear. I say “thankfully” because this scent is absolutely heavenly. Like quivering petals and light beams in a bottle. Jan Masters contributes to Vogue Nippon and Marie Claire
Available from The Beauty Apothecary and The Perfumery Hall, Ground Floor
BE AU T Y
Credits TK Images
Eye DRAMA
As autumn approaches, it’s time to pack away the bronzing gel and bring the focus back to make-up. Here, YSL make-up artist Frederic Letailleur gives a masterclass in dramatic eyes BY FLEUR FRUZZA / PHOTOGRAPHER BILLIE SCHEEPERS
PARALLEL LINES “Don’t be afraid of having fun with liquid eyeliner. Experiment with double lines. In this look, I’ve used a very thick line of cerise eyeliner as a base, and then gone over it with a thinner black line. It gives a more modern feel than simply using eye shadow, especially when worn with a clashing orange lip colour.” SKIN YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat Foundation in 20, £29; Touche Éclat in 1, £25; EYES Dessin des Sourcils in Glazed Brown £19; Eyeliner Baby Doll in Rose Baby Doll and Noir £24 each; Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils Baby Doll in Noir Fétiche £24.50; LIPS Rouge Pur Couture in Le Orange £25; CLOTHING Saint Laurent blouse £850 HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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THE CLASSIC LINE “This is what I would call the classic baby-doll look: black liquid liner and YSL-pink lips. The trick to getting a professional-looking line is to tidy up afterwards. Take a cotton bud, apply some Touche Éclat to it, then drag it above the eyeliner and beneath the wing to neaten the edges.” SKIN YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat Foundation in 20, £29; Touche Éclat in 1, £25; EYES Dessin des Sourcils in Glazed Brown £19; Eyeliner Baby Doll in Noir £24; Ombres 5 Lumières Collector Palette in Marrakesh Sunset £42; Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils Baby Doll in Noir Fétiche £24.50; LIPS Rouge Pur Couture Vernis à Lèvres in Rose Baby Doll £23.50; CLOTHING Saint Laurent blouse £1,099
BE AU T Y
THE GRAPHIC LINE
Make-up FRED LETAILLEUR Hair MAARIT at D+V Management Manicurist SABRINA at LMC Model GEORGIE WASS at Elite Available from The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor; International Designer, . First Floor; and harrods.com For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app
“Again, this look is about a double line, but I’ve used softer colours so the lines themselves can be stronger. A fine, dark teal line is offset by a thicker gold line both above and below the eye. Very Cleopatra. Underneath, the gold sits against the eye to widen it.” SKIN YSL Le Teint Touche Éclat Foundation in 20, £29; Touche Éclat in 1, £25; EYES Dessin des Sourcils in Glazed Brown £19; Eyeliner Baby Doll in Golden Reflections and Light Blue £24 each; Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils Baby Doll in Noir Fétiche £24.50; LIPS Volupté Sheer Candy in Lush Coconut £23; NAILS La Laque Couture in Vert d’Orient £22; CLOTHING Saint Laurent sweater £775 HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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NEWS
An eye for science It would have been easy for Sisley to launch an arsenal of ancillaries on the back of its 2009 sell-out Supremÿa La Nuit serum. Instead, the brand has patiently adapted its research to eye concerns and, four years later, Supremÿa Yeux La Nuit is ready. In addition to optimising skin’s regenerative powers during sleep, the new eye formula contains a potent compound of actives. Açai and caffeine extract combat dark circles and puffiness, while oat kernel and soy extracts reduce the appearance of lines and restore firmness. 50ml, £170. Available from The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
Teint COUTURE
After launching its breakthrough Croisière base bronzing formulation two years ago, Givenchy has been fast getting a reputation as a master of feather-light texture when it comes to foundation. The latest fruits of the brand’s research are the Teint Couture Fluid Foundation and Compact. Using a combination of active ingredients, a hydromagnetic complex and SPF 20, the foundation offers coverage that stays put for 15 hours yet remains supple, while protecting the skin. The compact, meanwhile, is based on Givenchy’s legendary ultrafine powder, and contains vitamin E and SPF 10 to protect the skin. From £32. Available from The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
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This is not a sentence I ever thought I’d write: Science has become seriously sexy. In the past few weeks, I’ve been to some mind-blowingly scientific anti-ageing skincare launches, and I’ve been seduced. Seduced by the depth (not to mention accessibility) of research and, more importantly, by the results. We are talking bona-fide can’t-arguewith-men-in-white-coats ABOVE Youthfullaboratory stats. The best looking skin at Chloé beauty brands are doing and Ralph Lauren; BELOW Lancôme for anti-ageing science Advanced Génifique what Brian Cox has 75ml, £92; YSL Forever Light Creator done for physics and, 50ml, £82; Kiehl’s quite frankly, I’m sold. Midnight Recovery First up: Lancôme. Concentrate 30ml, Rather than rest on the £36. Available from laurels of its Génifique The Cosmetics Hall and The Beauty skincare launch three Apothecary, Ground years ago (the result of Floor; and 13 years and £3bn of harrods.com research), the brand has developed a next-generation formula. Advanced Génifique works on a molecular level to essentially retrain (and thereby slow down) our genetic responses to ageing. Staggeringly, after eight weeks of use, some skin types appeared up to 10 years younger. At YSL Beauté, the lab has been busy developing a new formulation to target pigment disorders that age the skin. There are three types of cells that have an impact on skin’s clarity and luminosity. YSL’s new Forever Light Creator has been formulated to regulate these cells through its star active ingredient, Glycanactif WT. After four weeks of twice-daily use, the clinical results showed that skin’s luminosity had increased by 34.8%, and its evenness by 35.7%. Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrate, meanwhile, sells a bottle a minute – and this before the brand had even revealed its most recent clinical results. Through active botanical ingredients and essential oils – including evening primrose and Omegas – this oil-serum formula maximises the way skin absorbs nutrients during sleep. The brand’s study showed that, in four weeks, fine lines were reduced by 37% and firmness improved by 25%. You simply cannot argue with science. –By Fleur Fruzza
Chloé
What is your approach to creating a perfume? I give our perfumers a neighbourhood and the keynote that I believe captures its essence. Beyond that, they’re free to bring their creativity and inspiration to the process. It’s like a love story – a process of trust, dialogue, shared vision and the desire to create something spectacular. How does New York continue to inspire you? Early in my career, my mentor Robert Salmon at L’Oréal told me, “Always focus on creativity; the rest will follow.” I’ve been a New Yorker for more than 30 years, and I still get inspired every day by life here – it has a fast-paced forward motion that sparks creativity. How did Harrods become a source of inspiration? We treat the store as an ultra-sophisticated neighbourhood that celebrates the cultural ties between London and New York. Harrods Agarwood will be our seventh collaboration; it’s a tribute to Harrods’ vision and ingenuity as an iconic luxury emporium. 100ml, £375; exclusive to Harrods. Available from The Perfumery Hall, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
swots up
Ralph Lauren
After learning her trade at L’Oréal and making a global brand of Parisian perfume house Annick Goutal, Laurice Rahme decided to set up her own brand: Bond No9. Here, she tells Harrods Magazine the key to her success.
MISS MAQUILLAGE
Models Anthea Simms
Q&A: Laurice Rahme
RECIPES/ NEWS/CHEFS
Range rover
From the moment their shells crack open, the chicks at Capestone Farm lead a low-stress life in wide-open pastures. It’s not just good for the environment; it makes for firm, flavoursome meat BY PATRICK MCGUIGAN / PHOTOGRAPHER MOE KAFER FOOD STYLING & RECIPES EMMA MARSDEN HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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FOOD
Grazing chickens StockFood
T
he rare skylarks that swoop above the heathland of Pembrokeshire Coast National Park send bird-watchers all aflutter. But it’s a domesticated, earthbound bird that gets foodies’ pulses racing. At Capestone Farm, overlooking the park’s Sandy Haven estuary, chickens spend their days pecking in clover-filled pastures in this idyllic slice of western Wales. They might lead very different lives, but the two sets of feathered friends are linked by the organic farming methods introduced in 1998 by fifth-generation poultry farmer Justin Scale. He has seen a surge in the wild bird population since then, which he thinks can be directly linked to his decision to go organic. “The wildlife and ecology improvements are remarkable,” Scale says. “Butterflies and other insect life have increased and, on the back of that, bird numbers have grown. We’ve got a lot of buzzards on the farm now, as well as sparrows, finches and even cattle egrets.” Set up in the 1920s by Scale’s great-great-grandfather, George, the 400-acre farm today rears chickens, turkeys and poussins, as well as Charolais beef and rare-breed lamb. The switch to organic was originally driven by commercial motivations, Scale says – there was a gap in the market at the time. But he is now a convert to the cause – and not just because of the environmental benefits of using fewer agrochemicals. “Our chickens are reared for 70 to 80 days, which makes a big difference in terms of flavour,” he says. “They grow slowly and steadily, so there’s a lot of mature, exercised meat.” There’s no denying that a Capestone chicken is the ultimate comfort food: the meat is moist and firm, and the flavour rich and savoury, with an almost gamey depth – and the bones make excellent stock. It’s a very different beast to the mass-produced chickens on supermarket shelves. “A conventional chicken grows for just 30 to 35 days, and the meat is soft and flabby,” Scale says. “People say it’s tender, but it’s not – it’s soft because it’s immature.” It’s not just the short lifespan that affects the quality of conventionally farmed poultry, Scale explains: “When a modern broiler house is fully stocked, it’s wall-to-wall chickens.” Capestone’s hens have it easy by comparison. Stocking densities are around half those of broiler birds, with no more than 1,000 in each shed. And the coops are moved to fresh pasture for every batch of chickens. During the day they’re free to rove the countryside, before returning to the sheds at night to roost among hay bales. There is even in-house entertainment in the form of pieces of rope for pecking and pulling. A slow-growing breed of chicken from France is best suited to this laid-back life, Scale says. “With industrial birds, breeders are always looking at how they can get more meat from less feed in a shorter time. But the French have never lost their focus; they prioritise flavour and texture over speed of growth.” Baby chickens, known as poults, are delivered to
the farm at just a day old from a hatchery in Oxfordshire. They’re kept in special brooder sheds for the first few weeks of their lives, until they’re strong enough to brave the outdoors. Capestone Farm is unusual in that, as well as rearing the chickens almost from birth, it has its own abattoir. Known as a “fully integrated system”, it means that Capestone is able to control the entire production process, devoting just as much love and attention to the chickens after they get the chop as before. “We have them from a day old to when they are dispatched, so we have total traceability,” Scale says. “Our abattoir is just 10 minutes from where the chickens are reared, which cuts down food miles and also reduces the stress that comes with long journeys. With any animal, the less stressed it is, the better the flavour and texture of the meat.” The chickens are plucked and rested for 24 hours to allow the meat to relax, which adds to the final tenderness. They are then prepared by Capestone’s own experienced butchery team before being dispatched to retailers, including Harrods’ Food Halls. Quite a few also end up on the Scale family’s dinner table. “We eat a lot of chicken in our house. Roast chicken is always lovely,” Scale says. “I’m not one for messing around with fancy sauces. I like to taste all the flavour.” HMN Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor. For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app Patrick McGuigan writes for Square Meal, ShortList and Fine Food Digest HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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FA SHION
GARLIC ROAST CHICKEN WITH MAYONNAISE 1 whole chicken Salt and freshly ground black pepper 3 bulbs of garlic (approx. 25 cloves) ½ lemon A couple of sprigs of rosemary 2 tbsp olive oil For the mayonnaise 2 egg yolks 250ml sunflower and olive oil, mixed 2 tsp whole-grain mustard 8 leaves of basil, chopped
Serve with... Domaine la Bouïssiere Gigondas 2010, £29.95
Serves 6
1 Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6. Put the chicken in a roasting pan. Season inside the cavity, then put a handful of garlic cloves inside the chicken with the lemon and rosemary. Scatter the remaining garlic cloves around the chicken. 2 Drizzle the olive oil over the top, then pour 300ml of water into the pan. Roast for 90 minutes. Halfway through cooking, add another 150ml of water to the pan. 3 To check the chicken is roasted all the way through, remove from the oven and skewer the thigh. If the juices run pink, continue to roast at 5-minute intervals. The juices will run clear when the bird is done. Once cooked, cover with foil and leave to rest in a warm place. 4 Whisk the egg yolks in a bowl. Add the oil very slowly, beating all the time until the mixture emulsifies. When the mixture is thick, continue to whisk in more oil, a bit at a time. 5 Once all the oil has been incorporated, stir in the mustard and the basil. 6 Slice the chicken and serve with new potatoes, salad, a few of the roasted cloves of garlic and a generous spoonful of homemade mayonnaise.
Villeroy & Boch Farmhouse Touch water glass £10.50; Alexandre Turpault napkin £24.95; Carrs English Thread knife £51.95 and table fork £45.95; Sophie Conran for Portmeirion dinner plate £15.95
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SUMMER MINESTRONE WITH ROCKET PESTO 1 tbsp olive oil 1 onion, finely chopped 1 carrot, chopped 1 celery stick, chopped 300g boneless, skinless chicken, chopped 1 red pepper, chopped 1 courgette, chopped 400g can borlotti beans 75g stelle or other soup pasta 900ml hot chicken stock For the rocket pesto 25g rocket 15g pine nuts 30g Parmesan, freshly grated 4 –6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Serves 4
1 Heat the oil in a frying pan and sauté the onion, carrot and celery for around 10 minutes, until soft and golden. 2 Add the chicken. Season well and sauté until golden on all sides. Stir in the pepper, courgette, borlotti beans and soup pasta. 3 Pour in the stock and bring to a simmer. Cover and continue simmering for 10 minutes or until the chicken has cooked through. 4 For the pesto, put the rocket, pine nuts, Parmesan and 4 tbsp of the olive oil in a food processor or blender. Whizz until the mixture is finely chopped and creamy, adding more oil if necessary. 5 Divide the soup among four bowls, swirl a spoonful of pesto on top, and serve.
Serve with... Harrods Chablis £15.95
Sophie Conran for Portmeirion cereal bowls £10.95 each; Carrs English Thread soup spoons £43.95 each
FA SHION
CHICKEN KOFTA WITH DIPPING SAUCE 400g skinless, boneless chicken thighs 1 small red onion, chopped ¼ tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp ground coriander A good pinch of crushed chilli flakes 1 tbsp oregano, chopped 25g breadcrumbs 1 tbsp olive oil For the dipping sauce 150g Greek yogurt 1 tbsp fresh mint, chopped 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
Serves 4
1 Put the chicken in a food processor and whizz to roughly chop. Add the onion, spices, oregano and breadcrumbs and whizz again. 2 Spoon the mixture into a bowl. Using a teaspoon, make 16 meatballs. Place two balls each on 8 skewers, and brush them with olive oil. 3 Preheat the grill to medium. Line the skewers up on the grill tray and cook for around 12 minutes, turning now and then so they cook evenly. Slice one kofta open to check there’s no pink or raw meat against the skewer. 4 For the dipping sauce, whisk together the yogurt, mint and extra-virgin olive oil. 5 Make the salad by mixing together the carrots, beetroot, parsley and lemon juice. Serve the kofta with the dipping sauce, salad and warm flatbread.
For the salad 2 medium carrots, grated 2 small beetroot, grated 1 tbsp parsley, chopped Juice of ½ lemon
Serve with... Lustau Manzanilla Papirusa dry sherry £16.50 Villeroy & Boch Farmhouse Touch dip bowl £7.50; Sophie Conran for Portmeirion cereal bowl £10.95
ITALIAN CHICKEN WITH ROCKET SALAD Serves 4 2 tbsp olive oil 2 shallots, finely chopped 4 tbsp pine nuts, chopped 1 garlic clove, crushed 150g chestnut mushrooms, finely chopped 1 tsp thyme, chopped 1 tsp rosemary, chopped 4 chicken breasts 12 rashers streaky bacon For the rocket salad 100g rocket 100g baby plum tomatoes, halved 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1 tsp balsamic vinegar
Serve with... Isole e Olena Chianti Classico 2010, £28.95
1 Heat 1 tbsp of the olive oil in a frying pan and add the shallots. Sauté for about 5 minutes, or until the shallots have softened and are starting to caramelise. Season well and add the pine nuts, cooking until golden. Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute. Add the mushrooms and continue to cook until all the liquid that comes out of the mushrooms has been absorbed. Stir in the thyme and rosemary. 2 Tip the mixture into a bowl, and set aside to cool a little. 3 Put a chicken breast between two sheets of clingfilm and bash with a rolling pin until it is half as thin and has doubled in size. Do the same with the other three breasts. 4 Use the back of a knife to stretch out three of the bacon rashers, then lay them on a board. Put one piece of chicken on top and fill it with a quarter of the mixture. Wrap the chicken around it, followed by the bacon. Secure each end, and the middle, with cocktail sticks. Repeat to make four parcels. 5 Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6. Heat the remaining oil in a frying pan and fry the parcels on each side until golden. Then, transfer to a pan and roast for 30 minutes. 6 For the salad, mix together the rocket, tomatoes, olive oil and balsamic vinegar in a bowl. Serve with the roast chicken.
Sophie Conran for Portmeirion dinner plate £15.95 HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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FOOD
CUISINE on the GREEN
Gone are the days of picnic foods being limited to sausage rolls and Scotch eggs. Today’s alfresco dining options are as diverse as they are flavoursome PHOTOGRAPHER SARAH HOGAN / FOOD STYLING MAUD EDEN
ASIAN FOOD, LEFT Seafood and baby spinach dumplings £1.80 each; king crab and asparagus dumplings £2.30 each; prawn and chives dumplings £1.30 each; ABOVE Edamame £1.10 per 100g; Blue Elephant light soy sauce 200g, £2.50; grilled fish wrapped in banana leaves £17.95 each; chicken yakitori £1.60 each; chicken satay £1.60 each
HOMEWARES Alessi Tonale carafe £19, porcelain mini-cup £7.50 and 12cm plate £7.50, and Glass Family tumbler £5.50; Villeroy & Boch Farmhouse Touch 23cm salad plate £11.50 and Anmut oval platter £75; Ching He Huang chopsticks, part of 2-person serving set £29.95 HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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MIDDLE EASTERN FOOD, ABOVE LEFT Lamb kibbeh £1.50 each; houmous £2.30 per 100g; lamb sambourek £1.50 each; falafel £1 each; ABOVE RIGHT Turkish delight £2.50 per 100g; figs £38 per kg; Flame grapes £11.50 per kg; baklava £3.60 per 100g; mixed olives from £2.05 per 100g
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HOMEWARES Alessi Mami bowl £12 for set of 3, and Nuovo Milano dessert spoon £9.50; Villeroy & Boch New Wave glass serving tray £59, and Colour Concept glass bowl £19.95; CKS cake stand £24.95
FOOD
MODERN EUROPEAN FOOD, FROM LEFT Spicy baby squid salad £4.95 per 100g; lobster and sole terrine £6.50 per 100g; prawn and pea salad £2.40 per 100g; Pimm’s 70cl, £17.95
HOMEWARES Alessi Tonale 12cm plate £7.50, Nuovo Milano knife from £5.50, fork £9.50 and Glass Family glass £5.50; Villeroy & Boch New Cottage Basic 21cm plate £14.50 and Vinobile jug £49.95
Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor; and The Gourmet Cookshop, Kitchen Appliances and Villeroy & Boch, Second Floor
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Q&A
10 minutes with Ian Pengelley
What is it that you love about Asian food? When I was a child, it was what I smelled and saw when I walked through the street markets – it was so exciting. When I was 20, I got a job in a hotel in Hong Kong and fell in love with the people and the ingredients. I also lived with a Thai family for six months and immersed myself in the culture.
A love of Asian culture and a surprise crash course in cookery resulted in Ian Pengelley becoming one of the UK’s most celebrated – if accidental – chefs
Do you use traditional Asian cooking methods? Our recipes are authentic; I just refine them. The duck and watermelon salad recipe came from a Thai family I knew; they just threw the ingredients together in a pot. I do the same thing with cubes of watermelon, but I add cashew nuts and use a really nice confit of duck.
BY AMY BROOMFIELD / PHOTOGRAPHER ANDY BATE
ABOVE LEFT Pengelley at the original location of his restaurant Mango Tree, in Belgravia; ABOVE RIGHT & BELOW Red curry
with roasted duck – one of Pengelley’s favourite dishes at Mango Tree
Like many great chefs, Ian Pengelley didn’t set out to be one. When he left school in 1987, he found work as a kitchen porter, serving under a brutal head chef in a Michelin-starred restaurant. “One day, he fired one of the chefs,” Pengelley says. “Then he looked around the room for a replacement, saw me, and shouted, ‘Oi, ginger! You’re cooking!’ And I said, ‘OK, fine!’” Pengelley worked there for two years and loved every aspect of it – even the long hours and the discipline. Having spent much of his childhood in Hong Kong, when Pengelley struck out on his own, he was naturally drawn to the flavours of Asia. After travelling there, he returned to London, where he worked as head chef at Notting Hill’s E&O before opening celebrity hangout Gilgamesh. He opened Mango Tree in 2001, which now has a branch in Harrods, along with a sister restaurant, Pan Chai, which serves pan-Asian cuisine.
What’s your favourite meal at Mango Tree? I like the red duck curry and the tom ka gai, a spicy chicken and coconut milk soup. Thai cooking is full of flavour, and it’s light, healthy and easy to knock up. I’m making myself hungry. What do you love about your job? It’s artistic and creative. Everybody loves a chef! I like seeing young chefs grow into talented ones, and I love the culture and flavours – every day there’s something new. I also like the buzz of the service; you know people will enjoy your work. Who or what inspires you? I try all kinds of restaurants, from high-end to local. On a recent trip to Hong Kong, I ate at a local restaurant that served the best wonton soup I’ve ever had. That’s what inspires me: real cooking with real people. Do you cook in your free time? I don’t get to see my girlfriend very often because I’m so busy. So when I do, I want her to walk through the door and smell something delicious – a Lancashire hotpot or a cottage pie, something British. Do you have any guilty pleasures? Everyone should have a packet of pickled-onion Monster Munch in their cupboard. Mango Tree and Pan Chai are located in the Food Halls, Ground Floor. To watch Pengelley’s cooking demonstration, download the Harrods Magazine app
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Golden age
Celebrating the colour of long summer days, the world’s most exclusive interiors brands have conjured up one-of-a-kind pieces to last a lifetime
Still life Studio 21
GALLERY PHOTOGRAPHER TIM BROTHERTON
FROM LEFT Meissen Porcelain Roses £45,000; Daum Les 7 Perles crystal and bronze sculpture £54,000; Wedgwood Jasperware and 22kt gold vase and stand £25,000 HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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IN TER IOR S
24kt gold-leaf centrepiece £5,000; Christofle Arborescence 24kt gold-plated four-light articulated candelabra £4,950; Arthur Price of England Deco silver- and gold-plated tray £1,450; OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM LEFT Baccarat Mille Nuits five-light candelabra in crystal with golden hurricanes £8,500; Lalique Mossi crystal and 24kt yellow gold-leaf vase £51,000; Villari Elephant porcelain, crystal and 24kt gold sculpture £8,500
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Credits TK Images
THIS PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Waterford crystal Pasha
Credits TK Images
HAR RODS M AGAZINE
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Murano Luxury Glass Ampere chandelier £6,170; Bernardaud Split Rocker porcelain vase £4,633; Lladró Great Dragon porcelain and 18kt gold sculpture with opal eyes £40,000
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Credits TK Images
IN TER IOR S
IN TER IOR S
silver and gold-leaf candelabra £14,500; L’Objet Paulina 18kt gold, aquamarine and blue topaz frame £29,500; Baldi perfume bottle from £512; Jay Strongwater Golden Peacock sculpture with hand-applied enamel and over 9,000 hand-set crystals £15,000
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Credits TK Images
CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Greggio
IN TER IOR S
Items in The Gold Exhibition are available throughout August from Luxury Home and Waterford Crystal, Wedgwood, Bentley, Second Floor. For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app
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Credits TK Images
FROM LEFT Saint-Louis eight-light crystal chandelier £15,155; Carrs enamelled and silver- and gold-plated globe £11,000; Kosta Boda Man in Trench Coat crystal and gold-painted sculpture £5,500
PROV ENA NCE
Savoir fare Commissioned over a century ago by The Savoy to offer the ultimate night’s sleep, a bed by Savoir is still the epitome of bespoke luxury and comfort BY AMY BROOMFIELD
Royal State Bed Paul Farrell
N
ot many brands can lay claim to having created a bed fit for a king. But when the late King Hassan II stayed at the Savoy’s sister hotel, Claridge’s, in 1980, he said that the Savoir No. 2 bed was like sleeping on a cloud – and promptly ordered 24 for his palace in Morocco. And this year the brand will once again set new standards in terms of comfort and style; to mark the 60th anniversary of Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation, Savoir Beds will be launching the Royal State Bed, a special-edition model inspired by the 17th- and 18th-century beds owned by British monarchs. The histories of the Savoy and Savoir Beds are very much intertwined. The bedmaker was originally a modest upholstery company known as James Edwards Limited. In 1905, The Savoy Group commissioned a bed that would give their guests the ultimate night’s sleep. After
Savoir Beds Royal State Bed £125,000
days spent rethinking the perfect frame and hand-teasing the horsetail, cotton and wool fibres, the Savoir No. 2 bed came into existence. It proved to be such a success that The Savoy Group bought the upholstery company to prevent competitors from purchasing the same model, and renamed it The Savoy Bedworks. The brand soon became as famous as the five-star hotel itself. Guests from world leaders to Hollywood actors would come and stay, not only to enjoy the hotel’s splendour and hospitality, but also to experience some “life-changing slumber”. Louis Armstrong apparently loved nothing more than practising his trumpet while sitting in bed, while Charlie Chaplin enjoyed his first visit so much that he returned with his family to stay in the same suite year after year. Like King Hassan II, many famous guests who experienced the Savoir No. 2 ordered one of their own. These included Liza Minnelli, X HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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Likening its bespoke work to a Savile Row suit, the company’s carpenters and seamstresses can construct a bed to any specifications Madonna and Emma Thompson, who claimed it cured her insomnia. In 1987, Savoir’s most famous advertising campaign was shot, summing up the brand perfectly: an immaculately dressed model was pictured leaving The Savoy, with two porters carrying a Savoir mattress behind her. It is an image that has stuck. In 1997, the company began to operate independently as Savoir Beds. By then it had a long list of high-profile clients, from rock stars to Premier League footballers, all of whom wanted a bed of Savoir quality that they could tailor to their individual needs. While most bedmakers offer made-to-measure frames and mattresses, Savoir’s speciality goes beyond simply adapting sizes. Likening its bespoke work to the fitting of a Savile Row suit, the company’s carpenters and seamstresses can construct a bed to any specifications – even an Austin Powers-inspired round bed, complete with suede upholstery, as they did recently for the Stapleford Park Country House Hotel. The carpenters can also fit secret drawers for jewellery,
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ABOVE The brand’s famous advertising campaign from 1987
create a pull-out drinks holder or carve a family crest into the headboard; and the feet of the bed can be modern and minimalistic or traditional and ornate. Customers have complete control over the upholstery too, with the choice of virtually any patterned fabric, whether it’s an existing print or specially commissioned. They can then have the fabric finished with matching piping, stitching or Chesterfield-type buttoning. As everything is handmade at Savoir, it’s no surprise that the special-edition Royal State Bed takes a total of 604 hours to make, and a single master craftsman is responsible for hand-teasing and stuffing the mattress filling. Only 60 models will be made. The half-tester frame will have the luxury of a silk-lined roof and curtains made with blackout lining. On top of the mattress are two toppers filled with cashmere and horse hair. The mattress itself is deep-filled with a combination of curled Latin American horsehair, soft Mongolian cashmere and about 1,600 miles of woven silk. It sits on 20cm-deep hourglass springs for comfort and, of course, customers can have the firmness adjusted. Family crests, initials or even a football team’s emblem can be added by the skilled embroiderers of the Royal School of Needlework – the same team that played a significant role in making the Duchess of Cambridge’s wedding dress – for the ultimate royal touch. HMN Available from The Bed Studio, Third Floor. Savoir Beds is sponsoring the Secrets of the Royal Bedchamber exhibition until 3rd November at Hampton Court Palace. For more information, visit www.hrp.org.uk
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DESIGN / INTERIORS / FOOD & WINE / TRAVEL
Everyday MAGIC
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The new Ferrari Four – the marque’s first three-door, four-seat 4WD – follows the brand aesthetic, with practicality on the side BY GUS CHADWICKE
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hen you hear the word “Ferrari”, practicality does not immediately spring to mind. But that could be changing. The FF – Ferrari Four – may not be Ferrari’s first four-seater car, but it is the brand’s first three-door, four-seat, four-wheel-drive car. These attributes mean that, unlike most supercars, it’s a Ferrari that can be enjoyed almost any time. It’s what used to be called a “shooting brake” – a car with room for four adults and their luggage that can be driven in just about any weather. In other words, ideal for the UK’s wettest winter for 100 years. The journey from London to Somerset, at night and in torrential rain, might ideally be undertaken in an SUV. Few drivers would select a 651-bhp, 6.2-litre, V12 Ferrari in such conditions. But this is the FF. On the motorway, the car’s stability in rain is immediately apparent. It tracks true and straight, with the wipers silently swooping away. Naturally, the FF has all the toys you would expect, including individual DVD screens and wireless headphones for those in the rear seats. Up front, aficionados will be familiar with the layout, especially the Manettino dial on the “F1-derived” steering wheel, allowing easy access to suspension settings, traction control, electronic differential, and speed of electronic gear changes. Switchgear and instrumentation layout reflect Ferrari’s latest functional design language, as seen in the 458. Generally, this works well, although the push-button indicators on the steering wheel are less successful. They probably become intuitive in time, but did the traditional indicator stalk really need reinventing? The next day brings a mix of ice, snow, mud and deep puddles – perfect for a trip across the Cotswolds to attend a meeting at Silverstone with two adults, two teenagers and luggage. Again, not a journey you would have previously considered in any other Ferrari. However versatile, this car, as specified, has a list price of more than £280,000. So it’s certainly not to be treated like an off-roader. It’s also slightly wider than a Range
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FROM TOP The Ferrari Four; the individual DVD screens for rearseat passengers; the FF’s leather seats, F1-derived steering wheel and instrument panel
Rover, so care must be taken in narrow lanes. That said, it never feels like such a large car; somehow it shrinks around the driver in a way that many other large luxury cars don’t. As the road opens up and speed increases, on some surfaces there is a slight sense of tramlining as the 20-inch wheels hug the imperfections in the asphalt. This can be slightly distracting, but with familiarity it will probably be welcomed by most enthusiasts who like to “feel” the road. At Silverstone – although an excursion onto the track is not possible today – there’s no doubt that the FF would be in its element, capable of performing better than many more obviously track-oriented cars. With a 0–60mph time of just 3.7 seconds and a top speed of 208mph, Ferrari claims that this is the fastest four-seat car in the world. The FF’s configuration and execution are intriguing and highly impressive in a car that has all the practicality that most people normally require, and the safety and security of a clever 4WD system that can cope with all-weather demands. Yet it is also every inch a thoroughbred, adrenaline-fuelled performance car worthy of the prancing-horse emblem. The FF has a combination of capabilities that it’s hard to imagine any other manufacturer trying to combine in a single car, and it is a testament to Ferrari’s engineering excellence and its understanding of the market that it has done so in such emphatic style. HMN
NEWS
SPA DAY
Lying on a sun lounger in front of an azure swimming pool, superfruits cocktail in hand, you wouldn’t think you were in the heart of Knightsbridge. Such is The Berkeley Hotel Health Club & Spa experience: this is a day spa with a difference. In addition to an extensive menu of excellent treatments (from facials and grooming to the blissful massage-and-hot-mud Aromasoul Body Ritual) the spa also offers half- or whole-day use of its open-air rooftop swimming pool and gym facilities. For more information, call 020 7201 1699
THE PANAMA COLLECTION Few brands have such a stylishyet-practical aesthetic as Smythson. The new Panama collection – inspired by the legendary slimline diary created by founder Frank Smythson a century ago – features bags, wallets and purses, plus smartphone and tablet cases. Items come in bright hues such as yellow and fuchsia, or more classic shades – all in the brand’s distinctive supple calfskin leather. The Great Writing Room, Second Floor
Gluten-free feast Both The Georgian restaurant and Harrods Terrace now serve an afternoon tea for those with gluten intolerances. The special menu has sandwiches with fillings such as red-pepper houmous with courgette, while sweet treats include a chocolate fruit tartlet, raspberry macaroons, and scones with clotted cream. In addition, all the restaurants in Harrods now offer gluten-free pasta on request, and the Pizzeria makes glutenfree pizza. The Georgian and Harrods Terrace, Fourth Floor
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Where the wild things are
Chilled beach holiday or thrilling adventure trip? There’s no need to decide just yet on the paradise island of Borneo BY AMY BROOMFIELD / PHOTOGRAPHER DIEGO MERINO
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here’s nowhere quite like Borneo. The world’s third largest island is where nature crosses the boundary from the merely beautiful into the surreal, with ancient rainforests, gigantic flowers (think Little Shop of Horrors, minus the singing and the flesh-eating) and eccentric-looking wildlife. But Borneo isn’t just for adventurers; there are a dozen postcard-perfect beaches to laze on, as well as luxury resorts and an intoxicating array of South-east Asian food. With some 165,000 square miles of pristine wilderness, Borneo remains largely unspoilt. Though in recent years, the government has had to take steps to preserve the receding rainforest and set up wildlife sanctuaries. So, while visitors might be surprised by the modernity of the northern city of Kota Kinabalu, known as KK, it’s a comfort to know you’re only a short distance away from the jungle – what seasoned travellers call the real Borneo. Visitors arrive at KK in Sabah, the northernmost region of the island, with one intention: to conquer Mount Kinabalu. The ascent of the 4,095m peak passes through 130-million-year-old rainforest that is home to a dizzying variety of fauna and flora – from the giant rafflesia flower (the largest flower in the world), with its deep red hue and psychedelic patterning, to more than 3,000 species of exotic birds, as well as proboscis monkeys (native only to Borneo) and leaping lizards. Look up, and you’re virtually guaranteed to see an orangutan swinging lazily between branches. The Kinabalu climb is normally completed over two days, with a stop at one of the guesthouses in Laban Rata. The second day begins with a hike through the earlymorning mist and – if timed just right – a spectacular sunrise at the peak at around 6am. Sabah is also famed for the underwater carnival taking place at the nearby Sipadan reef. Although the South China Sea is a paradise for confident divers, even a shallow snorkel beneath the surface will reveal rare species such as hawksbill turtles, Napoleon fish, giant clams, sharks, barracuda and jacks. It’s also the perfect spot for “muck diving”, which, as the name suggests, involves delving into the muddy seabed in search of weird and wonderful creatures, like the mimic octopus, harlequin ghost pipefish, fluorescent frogfish and Dayglo nudibranch sea slugs. If this foray whets your appetite, introductory PADI diving courses are widely available. Borneo is very culturally diverse and promises something for every kind of traveller, from the seasoned adventurer to those in search of five-star luxury. A perfect base to experience both worlds is Gaya Island Resort. Set just off the coastline of KK – and accessed by a 30-minute James Bond-style speedboat ride – the luxury hotel comprises 121 pristine villas scattered along the shore and up the hillside. The entire resort has been built with respect for the beauty of the natural environment, using local materials and preserving the ancient trees. Each villa offers a different view: the Bayus are ground level and within walking distance of the beach, while the Canopy Villas overlook rainforest and mangroves. The best view, however, is from the Kinabalu Villas: set 25 metres up, overlooking treetops and the South China Sea, and – on a clear day – with a view of the majestic Mount
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The Gaya Island Resort; treatment pavilions in the resort’s Spa Village; snorkelling in the South China Sea; a traditional Urutan massage
Kinabalu. Each villa is fully equipped with state-of-the-art amenities. But with dense rainforest just metres away, and the occasional bearded pig or green lizard running past the sun lounger, the lure of becoming better acquainted with the island is too much to resist. The hotel has both a resident naturalist and a marine biologist on hand to act as guides to the wildlife on and around the island. A few days spent climbing and exploring in Sabah will earn travellers a well-deserved rest. Back at the resort, in the Spa Village, a traditional treatment such as an Urutan massage will ease sore muscles. Foodies are also in for a treat. The cuisine of Borneo is famed for using the best of the island’s natural resources to create fresh, simple seafood dishes, barbecues of succulent grilled meats, and desserts made from tropical fruit. The resort’s Fisherman’s Cove restaurant offers the catch of the day with views of the sea and Mount Kinabalu; twice-weekly tribal-style beach barbecues are held on the beach, where grilled meats and fish are served against a backdrop of live, traditional Kadazan music. After dinner, all that’s left is to sit back in a hammock with a cocktail, and ponder how to spend the following day. HMN
PROMOTION
HANDBAGS & GLADRAGS Fundraising in style Fashion met fundraising at a successful event in aid of The Prince’s Trust and its work with young people, hosted by celebrity stylist Gok Wan
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ore than £100,000 was raised by guests who attended The Prince’s Trust Handbags & Gladrags event, hosted by fashion stylist and Prince’s Trust Ambassador Gok Wan. Organised by the trust’s Women’s Leadership Group, the dinner and auction brought together 280 of the UK’s most successful women and their guests to raise vital funds for disadvantaged young people. Speaking at the event, Gok Wan said, “The dinner and auction is a killer combination of fabulousness and fundraising. In my TV shows, I see time and time again what a lack of confidence can do to people. The Prince’s Trust works with young people to build their confidence and skills and help them into training, education or employment. I’m honoured to do my bit to help.” The event, held at the new ME London Hotel, included an auction of money-can’t-buy experiences, holidays, and handbags donated by former owners including Joanna Lumley and Annie Lennox. At the end of the evening, Gok Wan even auctioned himself off,
along with the male models who had been showing off the designer handbags to the guests. The audience, which included TV and fashion celebrities, enjoyed entertainment from singing waiters Encore and heard the inspiring story of Prince’s Trust Young Ambassador Afsana Benozir, one of many young people whose lives have been improved thanks to the support of The Prince’s Trust. The Women’s Leadership Group uses the experience and expertise of 50 influential women to support and inspire disadvantaged young women. Since 2006, the group has raised £3.7 million in support of The Prince’s Trust. To find out more about The Prince’s Trust, please visit www.princes-trust.org.uk
TOP ROW Prince’s Trust Ambassador Gok Wan hosted the event; BOTTOM ROW, FROM LEFT Afsana Benozir,
a Young Ambassador for The Prince’s Trust, with Women’s Leadership Group Chair Fru Hazlitt; handbags were auctioned off, as were the men who modelled them; guests enjoyed reading the auction list; a Swarovski bag was donated by singer Annie Lennox
Supported by MAG AZI AZINE
THE APARTMENTS BY THE SLOANE CLUB Sloane Gardens, SW1W The Apartments by The Sloane Club are located on Sloane Gardens, a quiet residential road, in a beautiful late-19thcentury building of red brick and stucco, moments from Sloane Square and the shops of Sloane Street and the King’s Road. All the apartments are air-conditioned and have lift access, Wi-Fi, and 24-hour concierge services. Room service is available, EW MW TVMZEXI HMRMRK [MXL ½ZI WXEV GLIJ LMVI 8LI MRXIVMSVW EVI modern Art Deco, with fabrics predominately by Designers Guild. The kitchens are modern, fully equipped, and designed by Poggenpohl. Newly refurbished serviced apartments are available immediately. The minimum stay is seven nights, but shorter stays may be available on request. Price: From £220 + VAT per night 020 7225 6602 karen.boland@harrodsestates.com
H AR R O DSEST AT ES.CO M
HYDE PARK SQUARE Hyde Park, W2 % JYVRMWLIH ETEVXQIRX EVVERKIH SZIV XLI XST X[S ¾SSVW of this period building is available. The property has sunny southern views over the communal gardens, exposed beams, and has been designed with great attention to light and storage. The 1,055sq ft (98sq m) accommodation comprises a reception room, kitchen, master bedroom, bathroom, and a second double bedroom with en-suite WLS[IV VSSQ XLIVI EVI KEW ½VITPEGIW MR FSXL XLI VIGITXMSR ERH QEWXIV FIHVSSQ 8LI TVSTIVX] EPWS FIRI½XW JVSQ access to the well maintained communal gardens. Price: £995 per week 020 7409 9158 robin.boghhenrikssen@harrodsestates.com
KNIGHTSBRIDGE OFFICE: 82 BROMPTON ROAD LONDON SW3 1ER T: +44 (0) 20 7225 6506 MAYFAIR OFFICE: 61 PARK LANE LONDON W1 1QF T: +44 (0) 20 7409 9001 CHELSEA OFFICE: 58 FULHAM ROAD LONDON SW3 6HH T: +44 (0) 20 7225 6700 HARRODSESTATES.COM
U LT I M A T E
The ultimate GINGHAM EXPERIENCE Powder blue, polished and imbued with femme-fatale femininity: Miuccia’s grownup gingham coat is pure Prada perfection PHOTOGRAPHER
JON COMPSON
Who better than Miuccia Prada to rehabilitate gingham from its chequered past and seemingly indelible associations with café tablecloths and cowboys? After all, it was Mrs Prada herself who reversed the fortunes of the similarly maligned Pocono nylon in the mid-’80s, elevating it from military tents to minimalist must-haves in one fell swoop. For AW13, the Milanese designer’s tour-de-force collection had the classic check at its heart. In the wrong hands, gingham can easily veer into saccharine-sweet territory. But the coat that stole the show (and lots of hearts) with its powder-blue perfection, long lines and chinchilla-adorned bracelet sleeves is more knowing Hitchcock heroine than Southern belle. Prim but not Pollyannaish, in Miuccia’s hands the fabric harks back to a film-noir vision of femme-fatale femininity, one that’s darkly romantic, polished and perfectly now. It’s gingham style, just not as we know it. Price on request. Available from International Designer, First Floor. For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app
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