Harrods Magazine August 2014 by Harrods online

AUGUST 2014

MADE WITH LOVE

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MAGAZINE DIRECTOR OF CREATIVE MARKETING DEBORAH BEE DIRECTOR OF CREATIVE OPERATIONS BETH HODDER ART DIRECTOR BARNEY PICKARD

EDITORIAL ACTING BEAUTY EDITOR JAN MASTERS FASHION FEATURES EDITOR LINDSAY MACPHERSON LIFESTYLE EDITOR AMY BROOMFIELD CONTRIBUTING WRITER MARIA MILANO ASSISTANT BEAUTY EDITOR REBECCA BAIO CHIEF SUB-EDITORS LISA HILLMAN, NICOLETTE THOMPSON SENIOR SUB-EDITOR CAROLINE HUNT

ART DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR SONJA BURRI ART EDITOR NATALIE BOO MOSQUERA SENIOR DESIGNER RACHEL ESCUDIER JUNIOR DESIGNER OLIVER JAMIESON ART ASSISTANT JENNIFER KAY PRODUCER EMILY SELLERS PHOTOGRAPHY BOOKINGS EDITOR WENDY HINTON PICTURE ASSISTANT KIAAN ORANGE PHOTOGRAPHY BOOKINGS ADMINISTRATOR LAIDE PITAN

FASHION FASHION EDITOR VICTORIA GAIGER DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR POPPY ROCK SENIOR FASHION ASSISTANT BECKY BRANCH JUNIOR FASHION ASSISTANT OLIVIA HALSALL

DIGITAL DIGITAL MANAGER CLAUDIA ORRELL ACTING DIGITAL MANAGER ARNAUD BURTIN HEAD OF DIGITAL DESIGN BOB DEVSI DIGITAL DESIGNER JAIME RIVERA JUNIOR DIGITAL DESIGNER TAK YEUNG CHEUNG DIGITAL SUB-EDITORS JANICE MORTON, ROSE VICKERS

PUBLISHING ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ALETHEA QUARTEY ACTING MANAGING EDITOR SUZY CHAPMAN PUBLISHING ASSISTANT PHOEBE FISHER PA TO DIRECTOR OF CREATIVE MARKETING & DIRECTOR OF CREATIVE OPERATIONS

MADALAINE MCCARTHY PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER HAYLEY YOUNG PRODUCTION ASSISTANT CAMILLA JOSEPHS

HARRODS STORE IMAGE GROUP DIRECTOR OF CORPORATE AFFAIRS KATHARINE WITTY DIRECTOR OF CUSTOMER RELATIONSHIP MANAGEMENT AND PERSONAL SHOPPING CHIARA

VARESE

HARRODS MEDIA MEDIA SALES DIRECTOR GUY CHESTON HEAD OF MEDIA SALES CHARLOTTE MARKS ACTING HEAD OF MEDIA SALES AND MEDIA SALES MANAGER, HOME CHRIS MEDIA SALES MANAGER NICOLE IVASCHENKO ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE MICHAELA HUNT

SWEET

MEDIA MARKETING MANAGER KATIE ARNAUD MEDIA MARKETING ASSISTANT LAURA PARSONS MEDIA PLANNER CASSANDRA ASHFORD MARKETING & MEDIA SALES MANAGER, BEAUTY VIRGINIE DUIGOU MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVE, BEAUTY LOUISE FISH MARKETING EXECUTIVE, BEAUTY ABIGAIL SEKWALOR MEDIA SALES MANAGER, FASHION & FASHION ACCESSORIES SOPHIE READ MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVES, FASHION STELLA BUBEL, OLIVIA YOUNG MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVE, FASHION STEFFAN LAING MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVE, FASHION ACCESSORIES LAURA MONTIGIANI MEDIA SALES ASSISTANT, FASHION GABRIELLA INWANG MEDIA SALES MANAGER, FINE JEWELLERY, FINE WATCHES AND LUXURY JEWELLERY LUCINDA ANDREWS MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVE, FINE JEWELLERY, FINE WATCHES AND LUXURY JEWELLERY HARSHEEL BAINS MEDIA SALES ASSISTANT, FINE JEWELLERY, FINE WATCHES AND LUXURY JEWELLERY ELISE HAWKINS MEDIA SALES ASSISTANT, FOOD HALLS, RESTAURANTS AND WINE SHOP NATHALIE NÃ&#x2013;TZOLD MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVES, HOME ADELE BROUSSE, HASHIM JAVAID

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124,957 Period: 1st July 2013 to 31st December 2013

EDITOR’ S LE T TER

Main photo Becky Branch; cover image Katja Mayer

Exquisite craftsmanship, inspired bespoke pieces – this month, we’re blowing a kiss to all things “Made with Love”. Now is the perfect time to revel in the new luxury of individualism, with the personalisation of everything from fine jewellery to deeply desirable bags, and fabulous furniture to sparkling chandeliers. In the spotlight are artisans who meticulously stitch the most supple leathers or showcase precious stones in striking settings. And there are many ways to collaborate in the design process itself, creating something that’s yours and yours alone. The fashion pages are devoted to a life less ordinary too (p94). The focus falls on womenswear embellished with feathers, painterly details and statement animal prints; menswear, meanwhile, delights in the dark drama of the coming season (p116). We get to know the super-talented Stella McCartney (p58), a woman who clearly knows how to follow her heart; the designer reveals influences ranging from her parents’ androgynous take on fashion to Doris Day. What’s more, photographer Fabian Oefner has created original works of art that show how fragrance brings colour to every day, portraying some of our favourite perfumes emerging from giant, glimmering bubbles (p153). His real-time shots capture a split-second moment that can never be repeated; the absolute essence of what it means to be one of a kind.

Editor-in-Chief

HAR RODS M AGAZINE

CONTENTS

August 2014

106

NEW THIS MONTH 39 TOP 20 Launches, special offers and events for August 43 ZEITGEIST People and places in the air this month 49 EXCEEDING EXPECTATIONS After breaking records at the Young Vic, and with myriad films in the offing, Vanessa Kirby is clearly a star on the rise

FASHION COVER

Photographer KATJA MAYER; Hair RANELLE CHAPMAN at David Artists using Aveda; Make-up NINNI NUMMELA at Streeters London using Laura Mercier; Model REBECA MARCOS at Models1 wearing Monica Vinader earrings £250 and Ethan K bag £8,160 For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app

55 SWING OUT SISTER Change is afoot. From 1920s tassels to frontier-style suede, the AW14 collections are exploring the infinite possibilities of fringing 58 STELLA With her international label flying higher and higher – and a celebration of her original fragrance about to break – Stella McCartney’s name is shining even brighter 62 TREND WATCH: ASYMMETRIC LINES Step away from strait-laced rules about equipoise and get in touch with your slick, savvy, super-edgy side 64 WOMENSWEAR NEWS Chopard’s Green Carpet Collection; Kenzo’s David Lynch-esque looks for AW14; Michael Kors camo; Shamballa Jewels designer Mads Kornerup reveals a few of his favourite things 66 BOHEMIAN RHAPSODY Parisian designer Isabel Marant reveals what underpins her aesthetic and why instinct is integral to her approach 68 WOMENSWEAR NEWS French dressing at Paul & Joe; Louis Vuitton’s updated Lockit bag; Duckie Brown presents its first womenswear collection; an interview with Aspinal Creative Director Mariya Dykalo 73 GREEN PARTY Khaki has been reworked for the city with towering heels, classic coats and even evening dresses 75 THEY’RE GRRREAT! A combination of exquisite craftsmanship and eccentricity has helped Anya Hindmarch build a multi-million-pound accessories empire. She takes stock of a very British success story 81 HUNG UP ON STYLE The YSL 1961 logo has been reintroduced by Hedi Slimane and applied to a new range of leather-trimmed, coated-canvas luggage 82 MENSWEAR NEWS Denim from Hollywood Trading Company; the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona; Teddy Boy-style suits from Richard James; The Grooming Guru goes for fragrance longevity 84 SPORTS ILLUSTRATED Embracing their inner athletes, designers are elevating sporty, functional staples with innovative cuts and inventive fabrics 94 A LIFE LESS ORDINARY Feathers, fine embellishment, painterly prints and structured silhouettes create distinction for day and evening 106 WILD THING Autumn’s structured shapes mix and match animal prints, or hint at the feline with gentle devoré silks and patterned chiffon

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116 POETIC LICENCE Eastern prints and contemporary textures create a sense of dark drama in the new-season wardrobe 125 MADE WITH LOVE New luxury is defined by personalised artisanal details, from an engraved message to a meticulously constructed one-of-a-kind piece – all made with love

BEAUTY 162 HIGH FIVE Top five beauty treats for August 164 THE DARK ARTS YSL’s European Make-up Artist, Fred Letailleur, shows how to create striking looks with the new Black Fetish collection 168 BEAUTY NEWS Sensai’s Silky Purifying line; bold eyes from Givenchy; High Density Lift from Natura Bissé; OPI and Coca-Cola’s soft drinkinspired nail varnishes; Tom Ford’s Costa Azzurra and Mandarino di Amalfi; Miss Heaven Scent searches for the ultimate romance

FOOD, INTERIORS & LIFESTYLE 171 PASS THE PARCEL With an outer layer of mozzarella and a creamy filling, burrata is the new big cheese of summer 176 ITALIAN ACCENTS Burrata’s creamy texture makes it remarkably compatible with other flavours 178 SMART CASUAL His restaurants have earned Michelin stars, but Marcus Wareing’s goal with his new venture, Tredwell’s, is to democratise fine dining 180 PARK LIFE Nothing says summer like dining alfresco, and now the experience is better than ever with a selection of gourmet foods and wines 182 HEARD IT THROUGH THE GRAPEVINE A secret to picking the best wines is to transport yourself to the region – and Provence is an excellent place to start 184 FOOD NEWS The Kitchen, a new Mexican-inspired restaurant; Rémy Martin Centaure de Diamant cognac; La Maison du Chocolat’s Spirited Cocktails chocolate collection 187 IT’S ALL ABOUT YOO A collection of home furnishings curated by some of the interiors world’s brightest stars, Yoo Home combines high design with warmth and functionality 193 INTERIORS NEWS The BeoVision Avant 55 TV; Marcel Wanders’ Jardin d’Eden collection for Christofle; David Linley’s Safari jewellery box; the Jura Impressa J80 One Touch TFT espresso machine; this month’s Cookshop events 194 LIFESTYLE NEWS Palazzo Avino on the Amalfi Coast; Oxfordshire’s Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons; the latest fine-jewellery art books; the Gift Bureau 198 MY STYLE: CAROLINE ISSA The entrepreneur, model and frequent flier reveals her penchant for trouser suits and the secret to the ultimate travel wardrobe HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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3H\UJOLZ ZWLJPHS VăLYZ HUK L]LU[Z MVY (\N\Z[ 1. Alex Monroe jewellery Inspired by a haberdasher’s shop, Alex Monroe has created delicate, nostalgic sewing-box pendants in a mix of gold and silver. Pendant £180. Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor

2. Temperley London womenswear The folk trend is familiar ground for Alice Temperley, whose AW14 dresses are inspired by Byzantine architecture. Gown £1,499. Eveningwear, First Floor 3. 32 Paradis womenswear A winter wardrobe Parisian-style comes courtesy of 32 Paradis, where luxury fabrics are cleverly combined to create Left Bank looks. Coat £3,325. Luxury Collections, First Floor

4. Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Jewellery house Bulgari has applied its technical expertise to the Octo Finissimo Tourbillon, an ultra-thin complication with the graceful design you’d expect. £99,000. The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

5. Elie Saab Poincaré bags Elie Saab’s latest venture is Poincaré, a standout collection of leather bags and clutches with quilted panels in autumnal shades. Bag £1,425. International Designer, First Floor

6. Graff Dragonfly brooch An oh-so-clever en tremblant setting recreates delicate dragonfly’s wings in Graff’s yellowand white-diamond brooch. From £300,000. The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

7. Lilly e Violetta womenswear Italian brand Lilly e Violetta adds colour and contemporary shapes to its collections of fur jackets, capes and coats. Cape £2,475. Luxury Collections, First Floor

8. Givenchy Le Rouge limited edition In a crocodile leather case, Le Rouge Givenchy No. 306 Carmin Escarpin is a limited and numbered edition, exclusive to Harrods. £215. The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor

9. Billionaire menswear As well as statement-making pieces, Billionaire reinvents wardrobe staples in opulent fabrics. Jacket £1,905. Men’s International Collections, First Floor

10. Astley Clarke Cosmos The Astley Clarke Cosmos motif has been applied to new 14kt yellow-gold lockets and rings surrounded by diamonds. Rings from £495 each. Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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11. Christian Dior Rose Dior Bagatelle Monsieur Dior’s quest for couture perfection is encapsulated in the new Rose Dior Bagatelle necklace in white gold with pink sapphires and emeralds. Price on request. The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor 12. Tokidoki for French Sole The classic ballet pump from French Sole has had a criminally cute makeover thanks to a partnership with cult brand Tokidoki, whose manga-style characters adorn heels and toes. From £215. Children’s Shoes, Fourth Floor 13. Dennis Basso AW14 Dennis Basso’s latest collection mixes textures of the same shade, including satin, fur and leather in a vibrant scarlet. Jacket £32,000. Eveningwear, First Floor

14. Hublot Big Bang Ferrari Signature Ferrari house codes have been applied to Hublot’s new range of Big Bang watches; the standout is the Titanium Carbon. £19,800. The Fine Watch Room and Hublot pop-up shop, Door 9, Ground Floor

15. Made with Love New luxury is defined by fine craftsmanship and artisanal details, from an engraved message on a piece of jewellery to a oneof-a-kind bag.

16. Bucellati Macri collection Scattered with diamonds, the signature Macri bracelet has been reimagined this season in black gold. Bangle £18,500. The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

17. Fabergé Rococo collection Years of tantalisingly tiny works of art have given Fabergé an artistic edge. The new Rococo collection captures the scrolling styles of 18th-century France. Ring £8,885. The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

18. Tibi AW14 Tibi’s new range pitches fluffy mohair against high-gloss leather, and oversized tops with narrow-leg trousers and minis. Sweater £270 and skort £500. Studio, First Floor

19. Balenciaga AW14 Cristóbal Balenciaga’s back catalogue gets a sporty, urban spin courtesy of Alexander Wang’s stellar AW14 menswear collection. Jacket £699 and trousers £475. Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor

20. Saint-Louis Diamantic Collection Exploring new proportions and juxtapositions, designer Benoît-Pierre Emery has created the Diamantic Collection of vases for Saint-Louis. From £830. Luxury Home, Second Floor

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PEOPLE & PLACES in the air in August BY LINDSAY MACPHERSON & BEN FELSENBURG

Photograph courtesy of Charlotte Olympia

Charlotte Olympia Dellal, CEO and Creative Director of Charlotte Olympia

FASHION Charlotte Olympia “The higher the heel, the better you feel,” observes Charlotte Olympia Dellal, the British-Brazilian designer best known for her island platforms, kitten ballet pumps and kitsch Perspex clutches. Despite having fashion in her blood (her sister is the model Alice Dellal, her godfather Mario Testino), Dellal learned her craft at renowned shoemakers’ college Cordwainers and trained with designer Giambattista Valli before debuting her shoe line in 2008. Accessories soon followed, and she’s set to launch her first leather bags this year. Dellal’s penchant for old-Hollywood glamour plays a starring role in her label’s sensibility. “The essence of Charlotte Olympia comes from my love of that bygone era,” she says. For AW14, she took silent-film star Anna May Wong as her muse, and her shoes incorporate elements of Eastern culture, such as Ming pottery motifs, miniature silk parasols and lacquerwork with mother-of-pearl inlay. Even the outsoles are embellished; each features her signature gilded spider-web design. “I’ve always been particular with detail,” she says. “Nothing is left unnoticed.” Available from The Shoe Salon, First Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE

ZEI T GEIST

PERFORMING ART Limbo

Alongside the high culture at the Southbank Centre this summer is London Wonderground, a huge festival of edgy performing arts – of which Limbo is a prime example. Created by Australian touring company Strut & Fret, the show is a mix of cabaret, circus and dance that brings to mind the style of Broadway choreographer Bob Fosse. The stunts are nerve-shredding and the beats are captivating. Until 17th August at the Southbank Centre Pole performer Mikael Bres of Limbo

MEMORABILIA

The Art of Disney: The Golden Age (1937–1961) It was the year that changed childhood forever: in 1937, Snow White and the Seven Dwarfs was released, sparking the imaginations of young minds like nothing before. The feature-length adventure was the first in a series of enduring films – among them Pinocchio, Fantasia, Dumbo and Bambi – that established the golden age of American animation. The era, which came to a close with 101 Dalmatians in 1961, has now been commemorated with a box of 100 postcards of the studio’s work, including many images of development and concept art that have never before been published. £14.99 Available from Bookshop, Second Floor

CONCERT Prom 22: War Horse Prom Of the many arts events marking the 100th anniversary of the start of World War I in August 1914, War Horse Prom is a particular highlight. Starting at 4.30pm and lasting just 90 minutes, it’s geared towards families looking to introduce older children to the war’s legacy of drama, art and music. Life-size puppets from the West End production of War Horse are guaranteed to engage young minds; Gareth Malone from television series The Choir is taking to the stage with his chart-topping “Military Wives”; and the BBC Concert Orchestra will play works by composers including Edward Elgar, Gustav Holst and Maurice Ravel. 3rd August at Royal Albert Hall Puppets from the West End production of War Horse will appear in Prom 22: War Horse Prom Scarlett Johansson as the title character in Lucy

Scarlett Johansson may be beautiful and demure, but we’ve long suspected that you wouldn’t want to make her angry. Director Luc Besson proves those suspicions correct in casting her as a superhuman heroine in his latest thriller, Lucy. Besson has an impressive track record when it comes to creating femmes who are unquestionably fatales – think back to his 1990 classic, La Femme Nikita. Here, he perfects the formula, as Johansson acquires powers that she wields to lethal effect against a gang that takes her captive. It’s fast, furious and lots of fun. Opens on 22nd August in the UK

Limbo David Solm; Disney © Disney; War Horse Brinkhoff Mögenburg

FILM Lucy

ZEI T GEIST

DANCE Mariinsky Ballet Summer Season

Princesses Elizabeth (right) and Margaret, August 1932

Throughout centuries of Russian history – from the Tsars through the era of the Soviet Union and up to the present – the Mariinsky Ballet (formerly the Kirov Ballet) has been a byword for sublime creativity in classical dance. Its visit to Covent Garden, accompanied by the Orchestra of the Mariinsky Theatre, is a don’t-miss event featuring four different, but equally inspiring, programmes. In addition to Cinderella and Swan Lake, there will be performances of George Balanchine’s Apollo and A Midsummer Night’s Dream and a mixed programme of Mikhail Fokine’s The Firebird, Frederick Ashton’s Marguerite and Armand and Alexei Ratmansky’s Concerto DSCH. Until 16th August at the Royal Opera House The Mariinsky Ballet performing A Midsummer Night’s Dream

BOOK The Zone of Interest by Martin Amis Throughout his career as Britain’s most influential – and sometimes most controversial – novelist, Martin Amis has used his talent to treat the darkest aspects of human nature with a persistent and merciless wit. He takes on subjects that in a lesser writer’s hands would be entirely unpalatable; The Zone of Interest is no exception. In the novel, set in a concentration camp, a Nazi official falls in love with the wife of a camp commandant. £18.99. Available from Bookshop, Second Floor

THEATRE Medea She graced the Harry Potter franchise and the most recent James Bond film, Skyfall, then played a matriarch to reckon with in the BBC Two drama Peaky Blinders. Now Helen McCrory is back on stage, reminding us of the talent that drew critical acclaim in Shakespeare and Chekhov productions a decade ago. She takes the title role in Medea, a tragedy by Greek writer Euripides, newly reworked by National Theatre Associate Director Ben Power. The tale of a wife’s terrible revenge upon her husband provides a milestone role that fully showcases McCrory’s commanding presence. Until 4th September at the National Theatre

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Royal Childhood

This year, as part of the Summer Opening of Buckingham Palace, visitors will have an unprecedented glimpse into Queen Elizabeth II’s early years. The Royal Childhood exhibition features toys and clothing that belonged to the then princess in the ’20s and ’30s. Artefacts and pictures from other royal childhoods also feature, going back 250 years. 26th July to 28th September at Buckingham Palace Helen McCrory in Medea

Mariinsky Ballet Natasha Razina; McCrory Jason Bell; princesses Royal Collection Trust © Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II 2014

EXHIBITION

I N TFEAR SV HIIE OW N

Exceeding expectations After starring as Charles Dickens’ Estella, breaking records at the Young Vic, and with myriad ﬁlms in the ofﬁng, Vanessa Kirby is clearly a star on the rise

Credits TK Images

BY HARVEY MARCUS / PHOTOGRAPHER LORENZO AGIUS DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR POPPY ROCK

Matthew Williamson dress £1,799; Kurt Geiger shoes £195 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

“When I was 16 and I got a boyfriend… that was the point when I thought, just maybe, I might have a hope of being cool. But I wasn’t really”

hen my agent rang and said, ‘Hello Stella’, it was amazing… such an honour,” exclaims Vanessa Kirby, speaking about winning her role opposite Gillian Anderson’s Blanche DuBois and Ben Foster’s Stanley in A Streetcar Named Desire. It proved inspired casting: the Young Vic’s production of the Tennessee Williams classic became a record breaker, with tickets selling out less than 24 hours after going on sale. At the beginning of our shoot, Kirby is a skittish bundle of infectious excitability and pronounced angst. “I did used to worry about what I looked like,” she reveals. “I hate photos of myself.” And those doubts even seem to extend to her acting abilities. “I was sure they’d give the part [of Stella] to someone more famous,” she says. Admittedly Kirby (known to family and friends as Noo – short for Nuala, her middle name) is still in the early stages of her career, but her accomplishments are such that she should be able to put such insecurities behind her. She’s probably best known to audiences for playing Estella opposite her then-beau, Douglas Booth, in the BBC’s 2011 adaptation of Great Expectations, but has since continued to make a significant mark on

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THIS PAGE Dolce & Gabbana dress £2,815; Kurt Geiger shoes £195; OPPOSITE PAGE Toujouri dress £3,299

both stage and screen. She earned rave reviews for her Young Vic portrayal of Masha in Anton Chekhov’s Three Sisters – directed by Benedict Andrews, the acclaimed Australian director who subsequently also chose her for his reimagining of Streetcar. And following a lead role in the Ridley Scott mini-series Labyrinth, she appeared on the big screen in Richard Curtis’ About Time and then with Shia LaBeouf in Charlie Countryman. This month, Kirby will be on cinema screens again, in the sci-fi blockbuster Jupiter Ascending (with Booth). And having just finished four months filming mountaineering epic Everest (due out in September 2015) with Jake Gyllenhaal – “the kindest, sweetest, loveliest guy… he’s a real friend now” – she leapt straight into her next project, Bone in the Throat (with Ed Westwick of J Edgar and Gossip Girl), an adaptation of a thriller by chefturned-author Anthony Bourdain. There’s clearly no lack of work ethic, and rumour has it that Kirby was once described as the perfect head girl. “I remember reading that and laughing out loud,” she says. “I was so not head girl. My parents got letters all the time about me being late.” She pauses to comb out the nonexistent knots in her newly acquired, dark auburn hair – a requirement for Everest and retained for Bone in the Throat. Neither she nor her mum, she says, can wait for the return of the blonde Noo. The middle child of three (older brother, younger sister), Kirby was brought up in leafy Wimbledon. Her father is a prostate cancer surgeon (who has survived the disease himself ), but his profession – of which she is clearly enormously proud: “He’s literally saved thousands of lives” – means nothing once he’s at home. As Kirby puts it: “Life, death or otherwise” was always out of bounds at the dinner table. Her mother was a founder of Country Living magazine and the two met, Kirby explains sweetly, on a school bus aged 17, bonding over Leo Tolstoy. As a pupil at The Lady Eleanor Holles School, an all-girls’ school in Hampton, Kirby concedes that she “definitely wasn’t cool. All the sporty girls were the coolest. I was always last in the 3,000m. I tried to be cool. When I was 16 and I got a boyfriend… that was the point when I thought, just maybe, I might have a hope of being cool. But I wasn’t really.” With her time in Hampton up and no theatre-school X place in the offing, Kirby decided to go for a little life

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INTERV IE W

“Everyone was singing. I was like, ‘Let me have a go!’ By the end, everyone had left the room. My boyfriend at the time said he was mortiﬁed!” experience, travelling through Africa on a gap year that included studying conflict resolution at South Africa’s Stellenbosch University. Once back in England, she took up a place at Exeter University, emerging with a First in English Literature, and it was at Exeter that she truly embraced acting. “It was what made me the happiest,” she says. “I felt like I fitted in.” That said, she does recall a forgettable audition for Guys and Dolls, taking to the stage as a timorous first-year student. “I think I sang ‘Feeling Good’. Terrible! I can’t sing! Hopeless.” At this juncture she sidetracks and, squirming slightly, fast-forwards a few years to a house party where, a bit the worse for wear, she decided to reprise that performance. On guitar that evening was her friend Tom Hughes, noted for last year’s jazz-based BBC drama Dancing on the Edge. “He’s a really talented musician, and that night everyone was singing,” says Kirby. “I was like, ‘Let me have a go!’ By the end everyone had left the room except me and Tom. My boyfriend at the time, Christian [Cooke; star of Ricky Gervais’ Cemetery Junction], who is a lovely guy, took me aside the next day and said he was mortified!” Undeterred by her lack of musical prowess, Kirby was rewarded for her persistence with the part of Portia in a production of Julius Caesar that would play for 30 days at Edinburgh. After that she jumped at the chance of any role that was going, and duly won a much-soughtafter place at LAMDA – but before she had a chance to embark on student life at the renowned academy, she found herself with an agent: “Pure blind faith on his part!” In 2009, David Thacker, Artistic Director of the newly opened Octagon theatre in Bolton, had her locked in to three starring roles there, and she was subsequently named the BIZA Rising Star at the Manchester Evening News Theatre Awards. Suddenly, struggling to hold a tune didn’t seem such a big deal. Not so long ago, Kirby and Booth were Mail Online mainstays. At that point, in terms of handling the wicked mores of the press, it must have been useful having a mother steeped in journalism – so how much advice was forthcoming? “Literally, none!” Kirby says. Early on, though, she established her own rules about how she wanted to be perceived as an actor. “I really love being in love, but I think it’s important to keep it at that, rather than become an industry ‘item’. I would never want to be known as someone’s other half. The women I admire? Rachel McAdams or Jessica Chastain or Amy Adams –

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Hair BEN COOK at Frank Agency Make-up CLARE READ at Caren using MAC Photographer’s Assistant JORDAN GRANT

Carolina Herrera dress from a selection; Carvela shoes £100 Available from Eveningwear, International Designer and The Shoe Salon, First Floor. To watch a video of this feature, download the Harrods Magazine app

you never hear who they’re going out with really.” So who is Kirby going out with? “That’s so cheeky! I’m going out with Jessica Chastain actually. She’s got the best figure I’ve seen in my life!” Speaking of screen heroines, which attributes might she consider stealing from her favourites? She opts for the depth and presence of Dame Helen Mirren; Dame Judi Dench’s ability to make anything her own; Meryl Streep’s chameleon nature; and Chastain’s beauty: “She’s amazing. See – I’m definitely going out with her!” With that she falls back in her chair, animated arms and legs bidding to escape from her pinafore dress, growing in confidence with every turn. Eager to please, yet increasingly knowing what she wants from herself. “I always beat myself up about things, but I do feel like life is amazing right now. I’m just really grateful.” HMN Jupiter Ascending is now on in UK cinemas. A Streetcar Named Desire is at the Young Vic until 6th September. Harvey Marcus has written for Elle and Marie Claire, and now runs his own film company, Pigtail Productions

THE LATEST LOOKS FROM THE INTERNATIONAL CATWALKS

Swing out SISTER Change is afoot. From 1920s tassels to frontier-style suede, the AW14 collections are exploring the inﬁnite possibilities of fringing Anthea Simms

BY LINDSAY MACPHERSON

Roberto Cavalli dress £5,715 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

H A R RODS M AGA ZINE

Versace jacket £6,200

featured a ring of real fire) also had a ’20s inflection. Elegant, peacock-coloured flapper dresses had plunging necklines, graduated, deeply scalloped hems and fox-fur collars, while edgier iterations saw the hem of studded skirts slashed into spaghetti-like strips. Donatella Versace was one of the trend’s most vehement proponents. Her high-voltage Milan show encompassed military jackets with gold-trimmed epaulettes, cut-out dresses with cowboy-style tassels, and a teal trophy jacket with tiers of sloping leather strips. At Jay Ahr, swathes of fluid suede fringing fell from asymmetric silver zippers. Meanwhile, a Native-American note ran through Peter Dundas’ Emilio Pucci collection that included, rather sweetly, intarsia ponchos partly inspired by his Norwegian grandmother’s knits. In the accessories collections there was barely a brand that didn’t embrace the trend. Aquazzura’s cowboy-inspired collection was a standout: sandals featured fringing curled round circular cut-outs and a single row snaked up the backs of suede boots. “It feels very right for now,” explained Edgardo Osorio, the label’s founder. “It’s not only stylish, but also incredibly sexy: I love the movement it gives to shoes when a woman is walking.” As Osorio suggests, this season all the best pieces are pure fringe theatre. HMN Available from Designer Studio, International Designer and The Shoe Salon, First Floor; and harrods.com . For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app

Versace jacket £2,690

Versace

Chloé dress £1,099

Céline

Céline coat £3,799

Lanvin coat £1,975

Lanvin

Chloé

Lanvin dress £2,575

Emilio Pucci poncho £1,399

Lanvin & Michael Kors backstage photos Jason Lloyd Evans; Emilio Pucci Catwalking.com

Aquazzura shoes £475

Jay Ahr

Emilio Pucci dress £8,550

Michael Kors coat £5,650

Emilio Pucci

Emilio Pucci Jay Ahr dress £2,325

Michael Kors

he tipping point, when a subtle bubbling-under suddenly becomes a full-blown trend, is often easy to predict. Yet once in a while, something comes entirely out of left field. Take fringing, for example, which spent years lurking on fashion’s periphery, confined to perennial appearances on the festival circuit and in the odd accessory line. Sure, there was a smattering of fringing for SS14, then a few pieces featured in the pre-Autumn presentations, but nothing foretold the explosion for AW14, which saw designers slicing, fraying and tasselling with abandon. Perhaps the first clue to fringing’s dramatic change in fortunes was at Michael Kors’ AW14 show in New York, where the designer’s dalliance with the cowboy staple proved it’s not incompatible with clean-lined modernity. The master of combining polish and ease, Kors eschewed Elvis Presley undertones by using tiers of tasselled suede to add a visual punch to otherwise pared-down coats. The trend crystallised further in Paris, where Chloé’s Clare Waight Keller’s frayed fabric added an all-over textured effect to relaxed pieces. And indicating that fringing had graduated to a full-on movement, the ultra-influential Phoebe Philo put just a few loose threads on the black lapels of her pale pink, ultra-precise Céline coat. Of course, there was a counterpoint to all that moderation too, and it was Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz who first made the case for the style, executed with a maximalist sensibility. Elbaz’s tour-de-force collection featured tailoring in ultra-frayed tweed, black silk sheaths framed with Western-style fringes, and midnight-blue minidresses with borders of glittering Gatsby-esque tassels. Roberto Cavalli’s red-hot rendering (quite literally – his runway

Lanvin

FA S H I O N

Credits TK zzzz

FA SHION

H A R RODS M AGA ZINE

FA SHION I N T E RV IE W

Normal. But cool. With her international label ﬂying higher and higher – and a celebration of her original fragrance about to break – Stella McCartney’s name is shining even brighter. She talks growing up, handling fame and taking herself lightly BY DEBORAH BEE / PHOTOGRAPHER PAUL FARRELL / DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR POPPY ROCK

HAR RODS M AGAZINE

F A S H I O N IFNAT SE HRI O V INE W

“These are clothes that make sense. They work in your life. I still do really good suits; I’ll always do really good suits. I just do a lot of other really good stuff too” giving away a free bracelet,” she says. “This is a no-fuss bottle. It’s classic. Something you want to keep forever. Not a gimmick. “I was blissfully unaware when we started out that the rose is excruciatingly difficult to work with. And back then, no one wanted to anyway. It was very unfashionable. It’s hard to get a rose base to feel modern. But I was obsessed with it, and determined.” The fragrance also has subtle hints of sharp, fresh mandarin essence and light peony flower, while the rose accord is partnered by an equal measure of amber. “I love the sensual depth of amber. For me, the Stella fragrance is all about bringing those two together, that masculine and feminine, which is a thread throughout everything I do. I think tailoring is in my DNA, really. I went to train at Savile Row at a time when nobody was training there. It had a huge impact on me.” McCartney says that the inspiration for her boymeets-girl aesthetic came from her parents’ often mad wardrobes; her mum, for instance, wore glittery thighhigh platform boots with an old Buddy Holly T-shirt and a perfectly tailored suit. “The sorts of suits they wore, you couldn’t buy off the peg,” she says. “They had to have them made bespoke. It wasn’t Gieves & Hawkes-style bespoke, though; it was like Tommy Nutter and that crowd, the slightly crazy ones.” McCartney’s love of old films also helped determine her design codes. “I know it sounds clichéd, but I loved Doris Day movies. She always started out like a tomboy and then all of a sudden she’d transform into a feminine girly girl. But you know what? I loved what she was wearing when she was the girl and when she was the tomboy. My mum and dad really weren’t the type of parents who said you have to wear this or you have to wear that. If you look at pictures of us as kids, we were pretty funky. I was the third kid, so I had a lot of hand-me-downs, and we lived on a farm, so I guess we didn’t really do posh very well.” She still doesn’t – a point that’s appreciated by her devotees. She does wearable, she does fun, she does cool. She does clothes that are practical, comfortable and don’t look like you’ve tried too hard. And this season she has done crafty embellishment, too, but Stella-style. Zip details and mountaineering cords are used to create swirls and squiggles on oversized sweaters and jackets, while fringing decorates pretty cocktail dresses. Parkas are worn over everything from ski pants to micro-minis, giving that laid-back festival feel that looks thrown together. “I wanted to just express a kind of energy,” she says, “a movement that runs throughout the entire collection X HAR RODS M AGAZINE

FA SHION I N T E RV IE W

Trend watch: ASYMMETRIC LINES Step away from strait-laced rules about equipoise and get in touch with your slick, savvy, super-edgy side

Stella McCartney dress £2,675 Hair RANELLE CHAPMAN at David Artists using Aveda Make-up ARIEL YEH using Chanel Les Beiges Healthy Glow Fluid S2014 Model EMILY PALMER at Tess Management Photographer’s Assistants JAMES KEMMENOE and SIMON TANG Available from International Designer and The Shoe Salon, First Floor; and harrods.com . For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app

with these beautiful waves of cord that move around the body. It’s very much about celebrating curves. It’s very feminine – and then again, it’s sporty and masculine, with super-lightweight parkas and oversized sweaters that are really easy. These are clothes that make sense. They work in your life. I still do really good suits; I’ll always do really good suits. I just do a lot of other really good stuff too.” McCartney is the kind of hard grafter that celebrity children don’t often turn out to be. She has four children, a charmer of a husband – Alasdhair Willis, a Creative Director at Hunter – a house in Notting Hill and a bolt hole in the country. She’s as happily down to earth as her parents would ever have hoped, as well as being a talented and successful designer. So does she now feel confident that she has proved her detractors wrong? She starts to pack up her files, getting ready to move on to her next meeting. “When did I feel vindicated about what Karl said? Like, maybe two weeks ago. Not really. To be honest, I don’t think I do feel vindicated. Back then I was naive and not really aware of the magnitude of the project I had taken on. I thought my going to Chloé would go unnoticed, because I really didn’t know that there was this kind of fashion thing, where designers go from house to house. I really didn’t know any of the magazines, either. I certainly didn’t know what WWD was, or the International Herald Tribune. So I was very naive, and I was quite surprised when I got any kind of attention at all – let alone a knockback. I was like, wow! But to be honest, when you’re 25 and you come from London… it’s all a bit of a laugh.” She smiles and, as she leaves, she turns to say, “You know, at the time, I thought it was kind of hilarious.” HMN

H A R RODS M AGA ZINE

New findings published today by the Hypotenuse Institute for Angular Research have confirmed the long-suspected but never-proven theory that asymmetric lines are inherently “edgier” than their straight counterparts. Using examples from this season’s collections – including Donna Karan’s grey asymmetric skirt and Céline’s black-and-white angled suit jacket – researchers made an important discovery: the starker the angle, the more likely the wearer is to be versed in the ingredients of the most fashionable cocktails, able to gain access to soldout shows, and know the whereabouts of the best secret speak-easy in which to buy a drink after 3am. As its apotheosis of asymmetric cool, the study cited J Mendel’s grey pencil skirt, with its black-and-white pattern. Not only was it angular, researchers said, it was also monochromatic – another key indicator of hipness. For those not living life quite so close to the edge, the Institute offered guidance in introducing asymmetric lines into more humdrum existences. Novices should introduce angles slowly, they said, starting off with a gently sloping hemline rather than a daring fringe. One of the easiest ways to experiment with the asymmetric look is by choosing an outfit in a bold colour – Versace’s oneshouldered red silk dress for instance, or Emilio Pucci’s angular yellow Grecian gown. The idea here is that, while the cut nods to your hepcat credentials, the brightness of the hue will distract onlookers from asking any perplexingly modish questions about the best new place to eat ceviche or which vegetable you consider to be the new kale. Available from International Designer, First Floor. To watch a video of this feature, download the Harrods Magazine app Laura Barton is a feature writer for The Guardian. She also writes for Q, The Word, Vogue and Red

FROM TOP Donna Karan top £750 and skirt £1,099; Céline jacket £2,650; J Mendel skirt £1,080; Versace dress £1,800; Emilio Pucci gown £2,650

Credits TK Images

BY LAURA BARTON

NEWS

MADS KORNERUP

Poetry in motion It’s hard to look beyond the sparkle when a watch is studded with more than seven carats’ worth of diamonds, but behind the beauty of Chopard’s latest timepiece lies a seriously impressive agenda. The watch is one of five additions to the Green Carpet Collection, a project conceived by Chopard’s Co-President Caroline Scheufele and Eco-Age Founder Livia Firth, backed by the Alliance for Responsible Mining. The pair joined forces to create a pioneering haute joaillerie collection that used sustainable, 18kt Fairmined gold and ethically sourced diamonds. As well as the watch, the line includes two pairs of earrings and a bracelet, but it is the timepiece that is the jewel in the crown – a shining example of the merits of combining ethics and aesthetics. Chopard Green Carpet Collection watch, price on request. Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

Kenzo

Director’s CUT

Pattern recognition

David Lynch is renowned for a subversive, surreal take on the world; no surprise, then, that Kenzo’s stellar AW14 show, inspired by the American film director, crossed over to fashion’s darker side. Creative Directors Carol Lim and Humberto Leon are loved for their colourful motifs and playful perspective, but the duo took a Lynchesque turn with huge success. Tailoring was razor sharp and outerwear played with proportion, while elements of Americana (a Lynch obsession) inspired the abstract prints. Even the colours gave a nod to the director’s body of work: a shade called “Laura Lilac” referenced a character in the director’s cult TV series, Twin Peaks. Kenzo jacket £1,575, sweater and trousers from a selection. Available from Designer Studio, First Floor

In a season heavy with military inspiration, Michael Kors’ salute to camouflage is a real standout. The designer’s Michael Michael Kors collection takes its cue from the US Army’s classic woodland camo; first issued in 1981, the print remains the world’s most popular military pattern. Putting his all-American sports-luxe spin on the print, Kors has spliced his incarnation with denim, conjured it out of sequins, and created a patchwork fauxfur version. An abstract desert-style interpretation also enlivens sweatshirts and ’60s-style miniskirts. Even accessories are in on the act, with a Jet Set tote in a camouflage print that features flashes of fluoro yellow. Michael Michael Kors Jet Set tote £385 and wallet £125. Available from Designer Accessories, Lower Ground Floor

H A R RODS M AGA ZINE

My favourite things In 1994, Mads Kornerup began designing under the Shamballa name; 11 years later, Shamballa Jewels was launched. Kornerup’s jewellery is collected by the likes of Karl Lagerfeld, Giorgio Armani and Diane von Furstenberg. The pieces combine precious stones and pavé diamond balls with settings inspired by prayer beads and spiritual symbols. The Danish designer talks to Harrods Magazine about the artefact that serves as an inspiration. “I’m looking at my favourite thing right now. It’s an ancient doublethunderbolt symbol made from metal. In Sanskrit it’s called the vajra and in Tibet it’s known as the dorje. I actually bought it before I knew how powerful the meaning behind it was. I picked it up at an antiques market in Santa Fe, New Mexico, because I was drawn to it. It’s such a beautiful, eye-catching object and it has so many interesting elements. In fact, our logo, the Star of Shamballa, isn’t a star at all, but a drawing I did of two intersecting, clean-lined, Danish-style versions of the dorje. It’s incorporated into FROM TOP Kornerup’s dorje symbol; Shamballa Jewels all our designs. Skull Phurpa pendant “Our logo wasn’t on 18kt white-diamond always the Star of necklace £82,300, Korne Pavé bracelet in 18kt rose Shamballa, though; gold with white diamonds when I opened my £59,950, and in 18kt rose first store in Paris gold with black diamonds in 1994, it was a £41,100. Available from snake. Two years The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor later, when I moved the business to New York, my friends convinced me to change it. I knew immediately what I wanted to choose, but I still didn’t know its symbolic meaning. It wasn’t until I put a model of the symbol outside the shop that some Tibetan Buddhist monks came in and explained what it was. “In 1997, I started travelling to India and Nepal, where I learned more about the dorje. It’s used in Tibetan rituals and represents pure consciousness, a state that can never be destroyed and has no beginning or end. “It’s such a fitting symbol for our business, and I love that it wasn’t something that I had to seek out. I feel like it found me. That makes it even more special.” – By Lindsay Macpherson

Q&A

Bohemian RHAPSODY

Renowned for her easy, effortless style, Parisian designer Isabel Marant reveals what underpins her aesthetic and why instinct is integral to her approach BY LINDSAY MACPHERSON

It’s almost impossible to overstate the influence that Isabel Marant’s “off-duty model” aesthetic has had on the British style landscape – her bohemian knitwear, suede ankle boots and hidden-platform high-tops are some of the most copied designs of the past decade. Marant, who was just 14 when she first sold some of her own designs, graduated from the Studio Berçot fashion school in 1987. After launching an accessories collection, her first catwalk show – held in 1994 in the courtyard of a squat and using friends as models – marked the start of her ready-to-wear label, and five years later she debuted her diffusion line, Étoile by Isabel Marant. Have you always been interested in fashion? No, not at all. Although I was always very strong-willed as a child, and from about 11 years old, I knew very well what I wanted to wear. But for me it was not really about fashion or elegance – in fact I was very tomboyish. I was quite rebellious and I was against everything that my

H A R RODS M AGA ZINE

TOP LEFT Isabel Marant; ABOVE, FROM TOP Isabel

Marant necklace £350, sweater £480 and skirt £825; jacket £2,025; dress £1,075; dress £490

mother [a model and director of the Elite model agency] and my very chic stepmother represented. You started your own business at the age of 22; why did you decide to work for yourself rather than for another designer? I graduated with a strong idea of what I wanted, so I knew that I’d be frustrated working for another designer. Right from the beginning I wanted to design wearable, everyday clothes that also had a certain attitude and energy. It’s also quite important for me that my collections feel like they’ve been designed by a woman for a woman. I like to make sure that there’s a certain comfort and ease to them. Your collections don’t change radically from season to season – is that intentional? I think of my collections as a continuation of my style, so that’s the reason they don’t change dramatically. I try to offer real garments that you can keep in your wardrobe forever, rather than designs that are so fashion-led that you can’t wear them in six months’ time. What’s your starting point each season? It’s never a single overriding idea. I often compare myself to a cook: I take lots of different elements and feelings, and then combine them all. Those elements could be anything: a gesture of a woman on the street; a piece of carpet on the floor of my apartment; or a painting in an exhibition I’ve just seen. I’m attracted to natural fabrics, as well as crafts from around the world, but the energy of a collection is more important to me than the story behind it. How do you feel about the influence you have on other designers? It’s true that it’s better to be copied than not copied at all, but sometimes it’s done in a way that’s just a bit too much, too literal. That’s just the way fashion goes now, though. Would you say you have an instinctive approach to design? Yes, I really believe in instinct. I’m also very sincere about design; I believe that you should create with your heart rather than your head. Designing can become cynical if you’re focusing too much on what will make money. What are your ambitions for your label? I feel like I’ve never really planned for anything. Of course, we have an idea of what we want to achieve, and we try to set up certain things. But besides this, we are quite organic and just work with opportunities when they arise. Sometimes I think we’re going faster than I can keep up with. Your partner is the accessories designer Jérôme Dreyfuss; are you constantly immersed in the fashion world? We have a little cabin in the forest, near Paris, with no electricity and no running water. That’s where we spend our weekends with our family and friends. Sometimes it can all feel a bit suffocating, so it’s really the only place I can rest, relax and find myself. HMN Available from International Designer, First Floor

NEWS

An interview with

French dressing

MARIYA DYKALO by Lindsay Macpherson

French designer Sophie Albou embraces an eclectic array of inspirations for her Paul & Joe collections (for AW14 she took her cue from a 17th-century fairy tale), yet her execution is reassuringly consistent. And with good reason: the label’s trademark aesthetic of colourful prints and casual tailoring underpinning a bohemian sensibility has been charming chic Parisians since Albou launched the brand in the mid-1990s. This season she added a dash of tomboy insouciance to the mix, with boxy silhouettes and oversized shearling coats serving as a counterpoint to abstract-print poplin shirts inspired by modernist painter Serge Poliakoff. From left Paul & Joe dresses £675 and £495. Available from Studio, First Floor

WELL travelled

Travel has come a long way since the 1950s, yet much of that era’s luggage refuses to be superseded. Take Louis Vuitton’s Lockit for example: the padlocked, curved travel bag is every bit as covetable today as when it was conceived back in 1958. But while paying homage to designs past, the AW14 Lockits – in supple Veau Cachemire leather with sleek, silvery hardware – feature a number of 21st-century updates such as pockets for smartphones and tablets, as well as slender handles. These are bags that even the most seasoned traveller will do well to resist. Louis Vuitton Lockit bag £2,400. Available from Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor

The boundary-pushing menswear designs by NYC-based Duckie Brown – think skirts over shorts and shocking pink bombers – are borrowed-from-the-boyfriend staples in many a woman’s wardrobe. So it was only a matter of time before founders Steven Cox and Daniel Silver made a mark in womenswear too. Their inaugural collection, shown on the AW14 catwalks, was an accomplished affair, encompassing all the Duckie Brown signatures – sportswear, pleats and a subversive, genderblurring approach to classical tailoring. Some pieces played with proportion (an oversized top was matched with a split-side pencil skirt), while a pair of impeccably cut crimson palazzo trousers with a matching crew-neck blouse created a pleasing proposition for cocktail wear. Duckie Brown sweatshirt £625 (left) and coat £2,525 (right). Available from Designer Studio, First Floor

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Duckie Brown

Doubling UP

“When I grew up in Ukraine, it was hard to be stylish. Every shop sold the same dress, the same coat… all the women would be dressed identically. My mum used to go to second-hand shops that sold designer pieces, so she was my inspiration. By the time I was 16, I was designing and making my own clothes. My mum said that education would change my life, and she was right. After school I studied for nine years and I still love to learn: each season I’m on the lookout for new techniques. My latest discovery is leather that’s dusted FROM TOP, LEFT TO RIGHT with real diamonds. Aspinal of London Berkeley bag £750, Marylebone The dust from diamond cuttings is tote £595 and Diamond Dust Croc Marylebone bag worked into a resin, £18,000. Available from then applied to the Gifts & Stationery, leather. We used it to Second Floor make our exclusive Diamond Dust Croc Marylebone bag, a crocodile-skin tote dusted with more than two carats’ worth of sparkly diamonds. This season I took inspiration from The Chronicles of Narnia by C S Lewis. I recently watched some of the films with my son and rediscovered the wonderful frozen landscapes and wild creatures. Our collection has a fairy-tale feel with frosted hardware, patterned furs and playful motifs. Coming up with the concept for a collection is fun, but my favourite part is testing the products. I use each bag, then make lots of little improvements so it’s as practical as possible. That’s how I came up with our Tech totes, that have a built-in battery pack. When I first moved to London, I was struck by how British people treasure their traditions. In Ukraine, people tend to think, ‘Right, this is old. Let’s get rid of it and get something brand new.’ The other thing I love about the UK is the British gentlemen… I tell my friends that they make the best husbands!”

Illustration T S Abe

In 2006, designer Mariya Dykalo joined Aspinal of London, transforming it into one of Britain’s most exciting luxury accessory brands. Now Creative Director for the company, she talks to Harrods Magazine about her formative years in Ukraine, and how she fuses fashion, tradition and technology.

DAY & NIGHT, NIGHT & DAY

Monica Vinader all but invented dressed-down diamonds. Her latest collections, Alma and Ava, are designed to be worn anytime, anywhere

PROMO T ION

irls love Monica Vinader. And as girls have taken to making even precious gems part of their daily fashion fix, they’ve come to love her even more. From disc pendants studded with diamonds to simple friendship bracelets engraved with a message from a special someone, Monica Vinader has tapped into the jewellery zeitgeist. Maybe it’s a magical mix of cultures that has brought her to this point; Spanishborn, UK-raised, Vinader discovered a passion for jewellery while studying at City and Guilds of London Art School. She set up home in Norfolk and began making one-off pieces in a small studio. The focus of her jewellery house remains in the east of England, where she and her team of designers continue to find inspiration in the natural surroundings and conjure highly desirable jewels from coloured gemstones, silk threads and silver. The British brand’s success has led to the opening of a second in-store boutique offering bespoke engraving, as well as presenting two ranges that offer a new way to wear precious stones. The diamond Alma collection features teardrop-shaped earrings, rings, pendants and studs in sterling silver or 18kt-rose-gold vermeil, covered with tiny diamonds. “The full petal shape has a softness that’s just beautiful,” Vinader says. “Balancing this with a clean edge of perfectly flat diamonds makes it effortless and really wearable.” The Ava collection is similar in that it takes a classic shape – in this case, a circle – and adds diamond pavé; the result is a selection of pieces with a new, edgy glamour, including a large cocktail ring that’s exclusive to Harrods. What women want to wear right now is just what Vinader is creating: bright designs that match, or not, depending on our mood; dainty pieces that look understated worn alone and dressed-up when layered; charms that can be personalised; and motifs that can be worn in any number of combinations. The easy-going, mixing-it-all-up aesthetic suits our go-anywhere, do-anything lifestyles. And that’s why girls love Monica Vinader. Available from Designer Accessories, Lower Ground Floor; Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

THIS PAGE, FROM TOP Monica Vinader Alma diamond stud earrings £295, Alma diamond pendant earrings £545 and Alma diamond bracelet £585; Ava cocktail ring £1,300, exclusive to Harrods; OPPOSITE PAGE Alma diamond ring £615; all in 18kt-rose-gold vermeil

FA SHION

The STATEMENT SHOES

Balmain skirt £799

Once confined to casualwear, khaki lends its tough-girl glamour to this season’s sky-high stilettos, studded bikers and lace-up skater boots

J Brand jeans £270

Maje sweater £229

Alberta Ferretti gown £4,350

Laurence Dacade £875

Green PARTY

Manolo Blahnik £790

Alongside Olivier Rousteing’s take on the urban jungle at Balmain, khaki has been reworked for the city with towering heels, classic coats and even evening dresses

Zadig & Voltaire trousers £945

Zadig & Voltaire trench coat £620

Emilio Pucci

Balmain

Tom Ford £1,190

Fendi skirt £1,299

Emilio Pucci jacket £2,875 and dress £2,399

*EDITOR’S CHOICE

A tomboy aesthetic meets Gallic insouciance in Isabel Marant’s ultra-modern casualwear.

Penmayne of London hat £265

Stylist Olivia Halsall

Isabel Marant dress £375

Available from International Designer, Millinery and The Shoe Salon, First Floor; and Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor. For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app

HAR RODS M AGAZINE

Q&A

They’re GRRREAT!

A combination of exquisite craftsmanship and eccentricity has helped Anya Hindmarch build a multi-million-pound accessories empire. She takes stock of a very British success story BY LINDSAY MACPHERSON

Essex-born Anya Hindmarch launched her business when she was just 18, and in 1994 she designed the classic Ebury bag, which has been carried by everyone from Madonna to Olivia Palermo. In 2009 she launched a bespoke service, which allowed clients to personalise almost every aspect of their accessories. Later that same year she was awarded an MBE for services to the fashion industry. Today she shows at London Fashion Week, and her irreverent aesthetic has earned her a fanbase that includes Kate Moss, Cara Delevingne and the Duchess of Cambridge. When did you become interested in accessories? I remember my first handbag very clearly. It was one of my mother’s old ones, and the way it made me feel when I wore it really stayed with me. I think that’s what fascinates me about leather goods and beautifully made products: they can actually alter your mood. That’s something quite special.

TOP, FROM LEFT Anya Hindmarch Ship Maxi Featherweight Ebury £1,350, Georgina clutch £1,195, Frosties Maxi Featherweight Ebury £1,350, and Cornflakes Maxi Featherweight Ebury £1,350

How did you start your business? I was fortunate. I knew what I wanted to do in my final year of school, so I just went straight for it. I was only 18 when I started, so I didn’t have much experience, but I moved to Florence – the home of handbags and beautiful leather – and got to understand the industry by working with some amazing factories. Eventually I brought back a bag that I thought would sell well in England. Does the fact that you have no formal design training mean you approach things in a different way? It probably makes you think a bit differently, because you haven’t gone down the same path as everyone else. That said, I had quite a formal education in Florence, learning to cut patterns and solve problems. Handbags are little pieces of engineering, really. They’ve got to function well and they’ve got to last. I learned alongside the craftsmen, which is a wonderful way to study. I think there’s way too much talk about celebrity in fashion. Ultimately, the craftsmen are the heroes, and we should connect with them, celebrate them and embrace them. That disconnect is one of the reasons why I brought them into our stores. It’s special when you can actually see things being made. When did you become interested in bespoke? It stems from the fact that I love giving presents, and I think a present that’s personalised is lovely to receive. Embossing a special date, a shared joke or a memory onto a gift takes it into another league and makes it mean an awful lot more. For me, bespoke is about capturing a moment in time. It goes beyond a fashion season. X HAR RODS M AGAZINE

Q&A

“Craftsmen are the heroes… we should celebrate them and embrace them”

What’s behind your AW14 collection, Counter Culture? The collection was inspired by fast-moving consumer goods. We took supermarket products and everyday items and turned them into incredibly beautiful objects. So we’ve got these little cereal packets that have been made out of snakeskin. The leather is like marquetry: it’s been embossed and de-bossed and printed on. They’re beautifully made, but also quite mad. Why did you decide to show on the London Fashion Week schedule? I thought it would be fun to do a show, as nobody had really done one for accessories before. Creatively, staging a fashion show is a bit like scratching an itch. It gives you six or seven minutes to almost tear yourself open and share who you are. Where do you find inspiration? It could be anything, really. I believe in feeding your brain, so I go to lots of exhibitions and soak up art and architecture when I travel. All those thoughts, shapes and ideas somehow log in your brain, and when you’re sitting in a design meeting, something will suddenly just pop out. How has your design aesthetic evolved? I’m 46 (which makes me feel very old!), but if I look back at why I started and what I loved, it’s exactly the same today: humour, functionality, beautiful materials and craftsmanship. We’re also very British, so there’s quite an eccentric aspect to our brand. I like to make people smile. Fashion is an incredibly important industry, but it’s not exactly saving lives, so you can’t take yourself too seriously. Have you had a career highlight? It’s hard for me to identify a career highlight, to be honest. I think that’s because of the nature of the

H A R RODS M AGA ZINE

TOP Models backstage after Hindmarch’s AW14 show at London Fashion Week; ABOVE RIGHT Hindmarch in her London studio

industry; you’re always looking forward rather than back. Lots of lovely things have happened, but I can’t dwell on them. I can enjoy them for about three minutes – then I have to worry about what’s coming next season. Do you design with a particular person in mind? I just design what I like, without thinking of a particular person. It’s not like I’m my own muse, though. In fact, I’m probably my own harshest critic. I know if it works for me and covers my needs – transitioning from the weekend to the boardroom to a party – then it will probably work for our customers too. Do you have any aspirations that you haven’t realised? So many… there’s a thousand things I’d like to do. I’m a curious person. I love to look and learn and travel. I’m always thinking about the next thing. HMN Available from Luxury Accessories, Lower Ground Floor. For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app

PROMO T ION

ONE STEP BEYOND

The BOOST performance-enhancing materials that took the world by storm are now available in the adidas Women’s Energy Boost 2. Welcome to the future of running

f you enjoy a little technology in your running regime, adidas has the answer. Having teamed up with the world’s leading chemical company, BASF, adidas has developed BOOST foam cushioning, which returns more energy – and is three times more temperatureresistant – than any other foam cushioning in the industry. Previously, runners had to make a choice between performance cushioning and responsiveness. But adidas recognised that whether on track, trail or road, runners wanted both. Using state-of-the-art technology, the brand created Energy Boost 2 for women, available in hot pink or mint green. From £120. Available from House of Adidas, Fifth Floor

M U S T- H A V E S

HUNG UP ON STYLE The best-known, bestloved YSL 1961 logo is back. Miniaturised and multiplied, the pattern has been reintroduced by Hedi Slimane and applied to a new range of leather-trimmed, coated-canvas luggage

PHOTOGRAPHER CHRIS TURNER

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT Baby duffel £670, medium duffel £755, wheeled suitcase £2,265, suitcase £1,465, large duffel £1,110, messenger satchel £790. Available from Travel Goods & Luggage, Second Floor; and harrods.com . For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app HAR RODS M AGAZINE

NEWS

Blue CRUSH

While the beauty of blue jeans is that they get better with age, the flip side is that by the time they graduate to favourite status, they’re often in danger of falling apart. This conundrum spurred the creation of the authentically aged jeans brand Hollywood Trading Company in 1996, and this season it continues its denim-perfecting quest by collaborating with 7 For All Mankind (the brand responsible for popularising premium denim in the early noughties). The capsule collection includes distressed jeans, studded accessories and bikerinspired denim jackets. Hollywood Trading Company biker jacket £699 and jeans £325. Available from Men’s Contemporary Designer, Lower Ground Floor

Race against TIME Appointed the official Formula One partner in 2013, Rolex has been in pole position as the racing car driver’s watch of choice ever since the 1930s, when Sir Malcolm Campbell set a new world land-speed record wearing a Rolex timepiece. The watchmaker cemented its Grand Prix provenance in 1963, when it introduced the Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona, which was robust, easy to read and able to record time with unrivalled precision. The 2014 platinum version enhances the original’s qualities with a diamond-pavé dial, ice-blue chronograph counters and a bezel set with 36 baguette-cut diamonds. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona £103,600. Available from The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor

A suitable FIT

Subverting Savile Row tradition is practically Richard James’ raison d’être; think back to his SpongeBob Squarepants suit or his Swarovski crystal-studded tailoring for Elton John. So there was pleasing synergy when James took inspiration from Teddy Boys this season. The British subculture took its aesthetic cues from Edwardian-revival Savile Row suits, then added a rock’n’roll spin; they wore trousers drainpipe-slim, for example, and tailored jackets so they draped from the shoulder. James’ interpretation stayed close to the original (precision-cut tailoring, maverick ties and peacock-esque attention to form), but his addition of luxe fabrics, such as glitter-infused wool, took the looks into the 21st century. From left Richard James suits £650 and £699. Available from Men’s Tailoring, Ground Floor

H A R RODS M AGA ZINE

The Grooming Guru

goes for longevity If you love fragrance as much as I do, you’ll know there’s nothing more disappointing than applying something that smells fantastic in the morning, only for it to become a distant memory by lunchtime. There are, though, things you can do to stop your favourite scent pulling off this annoying disappearing act. For starters, it’s worth swapping eaux de toilette for eaux de parfum or extraits (both of which have much higher concentrations of fragrance oil). You might also opt for fragrances with notes known for their staying power: vetiver, oud, labdanum, amber and musk all give perfumes depth, strength and – crucially – a longevity on the skin. Acqua di Parma’s new Colonia is a good bet, as it’s deliciously leathery with long-lasting cedar and guaiac woods. I also FROM TOP reach for Chanel’s Acqua di Parma Colonia heady Antaeus Pour Leather 180ml, £185; Homme when Chanel Antaeus Pour I need something to Homme 100ml, £65; Roja Parfums Vetiver last all day. And for something that really Extrait 50ml, £275; Clive Christian Traveller Set goes the distance, for Men £185; Creed check out Roja Atomiser £110. Acqua Parfums’ rich Vetiver di Parma is exclusive to Harrods. Available from Extrait, a scent with The Gentleman’s Lounge, so much stamina Lower Ground Floor; that I call it the Mo The Beauty Apothecary Farah of fragrance. and The Perfumery Another option, of Hall, Ground Floor; and harrods.com course, is to reapply regularly. Around 80 per cent of eaux de toilette will have disappeared within about five hours, so smaller versions – like those in the Clive Christian Traveller Set for Men – mean you always have something to hand for those emergency top-ups. Alternatively, Creed’s opulent atomisers – miniature works of art – let you decant your favourite Creed fragrance (mine’s the Original Vetiver); pop one of those in your pocket and you’re set to smell amazing all day. Lee Kynaston is the Online Grooming Editor of menshealth.co.uk and has his own blog at groomingguru.co.uk

FA SHION Balenciaga jacket £465

AllSaints jacket £789

The LUXE BOMBER

Alexander McQueen trousers £599

Edgy, sport-inspired styling takes the humble bomber into high-fashion territory

Balenciaga

Lanvin jacket £1,150

Givenchy jacket £3,250 Miharayasuhiro sweatshirt £280

SPORTS illustrated

Wooyoungmi jacket £799

Embracing their inner athletes, designers are elevating sporty, functional staples with innovative cuts and inventive fabrics

Adidas trousers £64.95, exclusive to Harrods

Blood Brother T-shirt £420, exclusive to Harrods

Adidas jacket £92.95, exclusive to Harrods

Neil Barrett sweater £250

Available from Men’s Contemporary Designer, Men’s International Gallery and The Men’s Shoe Salon, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor; House of Adidas, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com . For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app

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Stylist Becky Branch

Alexander McQueen shoes £495

Neil Barrett

Givenchy trainers £675

SEC TION FROM LEFT Pomellato Capri necklace in rose gold with turquoise and rock crystal £4,765, Capri earrings in rose gold with coral and tsavorites £4,050, Capri drop earrings in rose gold with lapis and rock crystal £3,130, Capri bracelet in rose gold with lapis and rock crystal £2,660, and Capri pendant necklace in rose gold with dyed lavender jade and amethysts £1,560

SEC TION

FROM LEFT Marco Bicego Murano earrings in 18kt yellow gold with topaz, African amethysts, yellow quartz, rhodolites, iolites, and pink and green tourmalines £4,660, Murano ring in 18kt yellow gold with amethyst, topaz and green tourmaline £1,980, Murano necklace in 18kt yellow gold with topaz, African amethysts, yellow quartz, rhodolites, iolites, and pink and green tourmalines £6,920, and Murano bracelet in 18kt yellow gold with yellow quartz, London topaz, African amethysts, green tourmalines and rhodolites £4,270

Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor. For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app

NEWS

SWEET TALK

IN THE PINK

Feather cut

Jewellery design has come a long way, and Stephen Webster is, in part, responsible for dragging traditionalists kicking and screaming into the 21st century with his innovative and sometimes unconventional approach. Behind the rebellious creativity, however, his designs are beautifully crafted and built on technical excellence. The new Magnipheasant range is inspired by the shimmering plumage of the wild English bird; a multitude of stones – amethysts to opals, citrines to coloured sapphires – create iridescent feather forms, used by Webster to produce intricately connected rings, bracelets and earrings, all featuring tips set with pavé diamonds. Cocktail ring £19,400 and bracelet £36,400. Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor

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From simple silver beginnings, Annoushka has come a long way. The brains behind Links of London, which she began in the late 1980s, Annoushka Ducas took the world by storm with her unconventionally fun take on designer jewellery. Selling the brand in 2006, Ducas then set up a new eponymous company where she applied her maverick attitude to more precious stones. Her latest venture goes a step further up the luxury ladder; the One of a Kind collection starts with extraordinary stones, say a pair of pink opals, and then mismatches them with unusually toned tanzanites. Who could resist? Earrings £6,500. Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor

Simply elegant Having initially shunned the family jewellerymaking business, Marco Bicego discovered that design was in his DNA and launched his brand in 2000, using cultural references from his home city of Venice and a grand sprinkling of wild imagination. The Marco Bicego look is bold and colourful. Exclusive techniques are employed to cut semi- and precious stones so that their colours are given maximum vibrancy. The Delicati collection is, for Bicego, on the delicate side with single, almost luminous stones hung simply on gold chains. With customary laissez faire, he recommends lots of layering. Necklaces, from top £1,030, £740 and £680. Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor

STAR turn

The familiar Scandi contemporary designs from Georg Jensen are taking the world by storm. The 110-year-old silversmithing company has a worldwide reputation for table accessories, watches and cutlery. But it is for jewellery that the brand is best loved. The latest collection – North Star – captures a sparkling night sky using arching, bold, 18kt-white-gold pieces studded with diamonds. Double ring £3,995 and bangle £10,155. Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor

Tilda Swinton for Pomellato Jean-Baptiste Mondino

During the 1990s, Pomellato was one of the first brands to unravel the traditional bureaucracy intrinsic to the high jewellery craft. Having launched on the Italian fashion scene in 1967, the designers took the radical step of introducing irregularly shaped gems that were brightly coloured and looked like boiled sweets. Pomellato duly became associated with smooth stones placed in modern settings – so the new Arabesque designs are slightly left field for the brand, incorporating scrolling and interwoven motifs in light, rose-gold openwork, as well as amber and diamonds. The gourmette bracelet revisits the house’s signature links with patterns inspired by Arabian and Indian art, while the Arabesque rings and earrings (left) feature an exclusive leaf pattern in rose gold. Earrings £5,600 and rings £4,900 each. Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor

A LIFE LESS ORDINARY

Feathers, ﬁne embellishment, painterly prints and structured silhouettes create distinction for day and evening PHOTOGRAPHER KATJA MAYER FASHION EDITOR VICTORIA GAIGER

Lanvin dress £2,425; Marco Bicego earrings from a selection; Rupert Sanderson shoes £675

FA SHION

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FA SHION

THIS PAGE Céline dress £2,199 and shoes from a selection; Monica Vinader earrings £250; OPPOSITE PAGE Carolina Herrera dress £2,550; Monica Vinader earrings £250

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FA S H I O N

THIS PAGE Victoria Beckham coat £2,250; Christian Louboutin shoes £795; OPPOSITE PAGE Hockley coat £3,575; Victoria Beckham dress £1,450; Monica Vinader earrings £250 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

Issa top £550; Jay Ahr skirt £1,050; Sophia Webster shoes £495

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THIS PAGE Dennis Basso coat £XXX; J Mendel dress £XXX; Monica Vinader earrings £XXX and bracelet £XXX; Lanvin shoes £XXX; OPPOSITE PAGE Michael Kors top £XXX, skirt £XXX, belt £XXX and clutch £XXX; Alex Monroe earrings £XXX; Kurt Geiger shoes £XXX

Hair RANELLE CHAPMAN at David Artists using Leonor Greyl Make-up HELEN WALSH at S Management using Tom Ford Beauty Model BRUNA ROSA at Next Fashion Assistant OLIVIA HALSALL Photographer’s Assistants LEE GRUBB and ELLIOT KENNEDY Available from Xxxxx Xxxxxx, Xxxxx Floor; and harrods.com For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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THIS PAGE Roland Mouret gown £1,999; Casadei shoes £550; OPPOSITE PAGE Givenchy jacket £6,899

Hair RANELLE CHAPMAN at David Artists using Aveda; Make-up NINNI NUMMELA at Streeters London using Laura Mercier; Manicurist DAISY HASSAN; Model REBECA MARCOS at Models1; Senior Fashion Assistant BECKY BRANCH; Photographer’s Assistants ANDREW DAVIES, MORGAN HILL-MURPHY and PAUL ROWLAND Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; Designer Studio, International Designer, The Shoe Salon and . For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app Studio, First Floor; and harrods.com

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FA SHION

WILD THING

Autumn’s structured shapes mix and match animal prints, or hint at the feline with gentle devoré silks and patterned chiffon

PHOTOGRAPHER HEATHER FAVELL / FASHION EDITOR VICTORIA GAIGER

Givenchy coat £9,200

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FA S H I O N

FA SHION

THIS PAGE Balmain jacket £6,875 and skirt £5,950; Wolford body £125; Monica Vinader earrings £315; OPPOSITE PAGE Alexandre Vauthier gown £3,775; Monica Vinader earrings £315

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FA SHION

THIS PAGE Gucci dress £1,320; Marco Bicego earrings £1,440 and ring £2,460; Monica Vinader bracelet £125; Isabel Marant shoes £565; OPPOSITE PAGE Étoile Isabel Marant dress £355; Monica Vinader bracelet £125; Jimmy Choo shoes £425 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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FA SHION

THIS PAGE Dennis Basso coat £84,000; J Mendel dress £1,592; Monica Vinader earrings £145 and bracelet £125; Lanvin shoes £830; OPPOSITE PAGE Michael Kors top £1,950, skirt £2,675 and belt from a selection; Michael Michael Kors clutch from a selection; Alex Monroe earrings £120; Kurt Geiger shoes from a selection

Hair RANELLE CHAPMAN at David Artists using Leonor Greyl Make-up HELEN WALSH at S Management using Tom Ford Beauty Model BRUNA ROSA at Next Fashion Assistant OLIVIA HALSALL Photographer’s Assistants LEE GRUBB and ELLIOT KENNEDY Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; International Designer and The Shoe Salon, First Floor; To watch a and harrods.com video of this feature, download the Harrods Magazine app HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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POETIC LICENCE

Eastern prints and contemporary textures create a sense of dark drama in the new-season wardrobe PHOTOGRAPHER DIEGO MERINO / FASHION EDITOR VICTORIA GAIGER

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FA S H I O N

THIS PAGE Haider Ackermann overcoat £1,875 and coat £1,250; Paul Smith trousers £199; Falke socks £19.95; Church’s shoes £345; OPPOSITE PAGE Fendi jacket £4,399 and sweater £525; Wooyoungmi shirt £225

FA S H I O N

THIS PAGE Thom Browne jacket £1,899 and trousers £1,199; Dior Homme shirt from a selection; OPPOSITE PAGE Wooyoungmi shirt £225; Cerruti 1881 Paris trousers £425; Jane Carr scarf

(as cummerbund) £129; Falke socks £19.95; Church’s shoes £345 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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THIS PAGE Burberry Prorsum coat £1,995; Paul & Joe bomber jacket £360; Cerruti 1881 Paris roll neck £875; Paul Smith trousers £250; Kurt Geiger shoes £120; OPPOSITE PAGE Balenciaga bomber jacket £1,475;

Carven shirt from a selection; Jane Carr scarf £129; Paul Smith trousers £250

FA S H I O N

THIS PAGE Dior Homme sweater £710, shirt from a selection and hand-embroidered trousers £3,000, exclusive to Harrods; OPPOSITE PAGE Ami sweater £230; Thomas Pink cummerbund £69.95;

Wooyoungmi trousers £299; Jimmy Choo trainers £575 Grooming PAUL DONOVAN at CLM Hair & Make-up using Kiehl’s hair care and SK-II skincare; Model CHARLIE TIMMS at Premier; Senior Fashion Assistant BECKY BRANCH; Photographer’s Assistants SAM HENDEL and SIMON MCGUIGAN Available from Men’s Contemporary Designer, Men’s International Gallery, Men’s Shirts & Ties, The Men’s Shoe Salon and Men’s Socks, Underwear & Nightwear, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s Tailoring, Ground Floor; and harrods.com . To watch a video of this feature, download the Harrods Magazine app HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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New luxury is deďŹ ned by personalised artisanal details, from an engraved message to a meticulously constructed one-of-a-kind piece â&#x20AC;&#x201C; all made with love

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Anya Hindmarch’s embossing workshop

t’s an extraordinary fact that, despite the austere times affecting much of the world in recent years, demand for luxury goods has never been higher. The share prices of many of the major players remain at stratospheric levels. And right at the top end of the market there are companies whose high-end bags and accessories are so sought after they can’t make them fast enough. Hermès has long waiting lists for many of its products – and the French brand is far from alone. Furthermore, these companies have been quick to realise that, for some of today’s most privileged and discerning customers, their products aren’t anything like haute enough. In an era when the bags (and shoes and scents and silk scarves and designer labels) that were once the preserve of the genuinely rich are accessible to the “merely” well-heeled, those with the deepest pockets are demanding something else, something more. These customers are insisting on rarity, once an essential component of luxury; ubiquitous will not do. Limited availability is not all that is required, however; there’s also that elusive thing called “soul.” The most discerning customers are also looking for things made with love and care, with skill, with craftsmanship, with a human touch… even with imperfections; things that clearly haven’t come, cookie-cutter-style, from some anonymous factory. Exquisite watches, hand-blown glass and bespoke shoes; leather goods, jewellery and silver from niche ateliers. All these are loved and desired because they’re made with skills that have been honed through the generations and are hard to come by. And all this demands a resource that’s increasingly in short supply and that makes the end product all the more precious: time. Several years ago, aware of the direction the luxury market was taking, Anya Hindmarch opened Anya Hindmarch Bespoke in her old Pont Street shop in

London’s Belgravia. Her latest project devoted to personalised design is a pop-up workshop in Harrods, where Hindmarch’s master craftsmen will be available to emboss handwritten messages and inlay photographs onto a range of exclusive products. “It’s not about price any more,” Hindmarch says. “It’s about beautiful, handcrafted, artisanal, old-fashioned quality. Bespoke creates an emotional link between the object and the owner.” The mood is all about the individual. At Fendi and Louis Vuitton, as well as at smaller manufacturers, customers may have the chance to pick the leathers, change the colours, alter the hardware. And it’s not just fashion houses and accessory suppliers that are at it. There are now “noses” – such as Roja Dove and Lyn Harris – who will conjure a scent that nobody else in the world will be wearing. From commissioning these personal items, many consumers have moved onto one-off pieces for their homes. For them, the dream is to own something that truly reflects their tastes and passions. Brands such as Squint cater for all manner of tastes, upholstering chairs, sofas, ottomans and even beds in its signature exuberant patchwork. Meanwhile, The Rug Company can conjure up a design in mohair, wool, silk or cashmere using its library of over 2,000 colours. Even heritage brands are accommodating bespoke requests; 95-year-old French brand D Porthault lets customers monogram or embroider bed linens or pillowcases with initials, names or decorative motifs. That is where true luxury is at today. It’s changed out of all recognition and comes bespoke and personalised… one of a kind. HMN Lucia van der Post is a travel writer and an Associate Editor of the Financial Times’ How To Spend It magazine HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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Personal best

It’s often seen as daunting, but putting a personal spin on jewellery is an appealingly simple prospect at Boodles. The British jewellery house has set out to demystify the process of commissioning a design by inviting clients to choose almost anything – a sunset, flower or even their partner’s favourite scene – as a starting point for creating a unique piece with a palpable emotional charge. For the indecisive, the sixth-generation family-run company also has an archive of one-off jewellery designs – from eye-catching cocktail rings such as the Flamingo (left) to more understated pieces – that clients can use as inspiration. Expert help from the brand is, of course, available to those who want to have more input from start to finish. Boodles bespoke prices on request. Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

ROCK royalty

As Crown Jeweller from 1843 to 2007, Garrard has authority when it comes to commissions fit for a princess. For its bespoke service, the house draws on its rarefied past while adding a dose of modernity. Its handcrafted tiaras are heirloom pieces with an ingenious twist – the brand’s artisans have devised a way of making three designs in one. Elements of the 18kt-white-gold diamond tiara can be removed, then used to form a necklace (above) and a pair of earrings. Garrard Tiara, price on request. Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

The cotton club

John F Kennedy, Coco Chanel and Winston Churchill may not be the most obvious bedfellows. But they were, in fact, linked by linen – in particular the intricate weaving, printing and embroidering of linen “couturier” D Porthault, which counted them all as clients. From its creation in 1920, the French house championed the move away from traditional white bed linen to the then-revolutionary concept of printed sheets. Today, it offers bespoke possibilities, from monogrammed pillowcases to particular motifs rendered in appliqué. D Porthault Papillons satin collection from £230. Available from Luxury Linens, Second Floor

MASTERS AT WORK

Unbridled creativity is the cornerstone of Theo Fennell’s jewellery, yet exquisite craftsmanship is an equally important component. Clients who order bespoke are invited to see first-hand how much work goes into a design created by one of the house’s master craftsmen, many of whom have worked with Fennell for more than two decades. The brand welcomes clients’

suggestions and will incorporate a favourite stone, meaningful motif or even a special part of town, as seen in the brand’s street-sign cuff links. As an added draw, creative types can get involved at every step of the process as their commission evolves from rough sketch to final creation. Theo Fennell bespoke cuff links from £7,500. Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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MOVING PICTURES There’s a rising demand for limited-edition watches, with some models produced in runs of fewer than 100 pieces – but how can you personalise your timepiece to ensure it’s one of a kind? The solution from Swiss manufacturer Blancpain is bespoke engraving on the rotors of its precious-metal watches. The service is a natural progression from the ingenious “automata” moving-figure timepieces developed at the end of the 17th century. However, to realise this latest feat, the brand had to take on an extra challenge: not only to combine moving figures with its delicate repeater mechanism, but also to hand carve an image of the client’s request onto the watch’s rotors. Blancpain bespoke prices on request. Available from The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor

ROOTS revisited

While the first Alfred Dunhill collection, early in the 1900s, catered for the then growing demand for driving accessories, from goggles to leather gloves, the brand has since become better known for its custom tailoring of overcoats, suits and shirts. Now, though, it is making something of a return to its roots and allowing the style-conscious to take the bespoke service a step further. While one rarely sees a man in driving gloves today, Dunhill’s custom-made leather accessories extend to luggage, wallets and belts, all handmade from a choice of skins, finishes and linings. Dunhill bespoke leather accessories, price on request. Available from The Great Writing Room, Second Floor

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High commission Throughout its turbulent 300-year history, Meissen has stood as a proud symbol of German ingenuity. The first European home of hard-paste porcelain, Meissen was appropriated after the war by the Soviet Union, but is now, as originally, owned by the State of Saxony. While its handmade, luxury porcelain pieces are largely ornamental, the Arabian mocha service – inspired by the late18th-century trend for all things oriental – does have a practical bent. Meissen also offers the opportunity for customers to commission their own pieces. Meissen Arabian mocha service £21,250, exclusive to Harrods. Available from Luxury Home, Second Floor

Solo scents

One of the world’s leading perfumers, Roja Dove caters for those who want a scent unlike any other by offering a bespoke service. This includes “odour profiling”, which enables him to guide each client through the labyrinth of ingredients and the many different styles of perfume to create a tailor-made fragrance – a true one-off. What’s more, the fragrance is presented in a bottle called L’Ocean, a design by one of the greatest exponents of the Art Deco movement, Georges Chevalier, that was originally produced by Baccarat, who are remaking it especially for these individual fragrances. From £25,000. Available from Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie, Fifth Floor

Grant Macdonald

Peter Reed

Wedgwood

Smythson stationery from £45; bespoke stationery from £200

Wedgwood Black Panther vase £3,000

“They see something, but they want it taller or smaller or bigger. It’s the ultimate in luxury for there to be only one edition of something.”

Carrs

Grant Macdonald Gemini centrepiece £49,950; limited edition of five

Black ﬁrework graphic, purple petals iStock

it onto crockery. Even its famous Panther vase can be given a personal twist (at a cost of £7,000) and is available in a choice of colours from the Jasperware archive – the famous palette of blues, greens and lilacs that includes the iconic Wedgwood Blue. Certainly, clients are drawn to one-off versions of core designs, notes Milly Wiggin of London silversmiths Grant Macdonald. “They see something,” she says, “but they want it taller or smaller or bigger. It’s the ultimate in luxury for there to be only one edition of something.” An established design that is tweaked by the customer is a hallmark of bespoke – and that combination also serves as a safety net. We are all designers now, but are we any good? The benefit of collaborating to personalise an existing design is that the brand’s expertise and heritage are still intrinsic to the piece. Take a brand like Peter Reed International, which was started in 1861 by a farmer on the slopes of Pendle Hill and went on to gain the Royal Warrant of Appointment to Her Majesty The Queen in 2008. Today, it continues to use traditional Lancastrian techniques to produce 100 per cent Egyptian cotton bed linen for hotels, royalty and celebrities, with its bespoke service allowing clients to choose from a range of 12 thread colours and three or four embroidery patterns. Milly Wiggin Bespoke is the culmination of a long arc in interior design, spanning the past 15 years, which has injected colour, pattern Arthur Price and humour into our homes. It has put creativity back Swing epergne into the hands of the homeowner, instead of being £1,500 prescribed by all those stern minimalists who told us we mustn’t have so much as a magazine on our coffee tables. Or coffee. In a sense, going hand in hand with thrift and environmental concerns, it has rebellion at its core – a love of antique patinas and shabby, peeling and characterful furniture (think of all those edgy New York hotels with exposed-brick walls, rusting metal factory lights and beaten-leather club chairs). Texture is being valued; age respected. It is no longer environmentally acceptable to rip it all out and start again. However, there is also a sense that the designer in all of us has matured since those heady days when we were first allowed to run amok with a paintbrush and some oversized floral wallpaper. Those days were like a release from the purgatory of neutrals. The individuality that is expressed in today’s homes – courtesy of bespoke – is rather quieter, more subtle and better thought through. Unless, of course, you want it all pink. HMN

GlobeTrotter British Bespoke suitcase £995

Susie Steiner is a novelist and freelance journalist Available from Luxury Home, Luxury Linens, Travel Goods & Luggage, Smythson Bespoke Stationery Service and Waterford Crystal, Second Floor; and The Rug Company, Third Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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IN GOOD HANDS

The ﬂawless reputation of desirable design houses often rests with a few exceptional artisans, rarely in the limelight, but always ready to work their magic BY AMY BROOMFIELD / STILL-LIFE PHOTOGRAPHER ARTHUR WOODCROFT

CLAIRE CHOISNE Creative Director, Boucheron

“I’ve always liked the idea of working around happiness, and jewellery is about materialising joyful moments of life – with an engagement ring or a birth gift, for example. I’m also attached to the timeless dimension of jewellery; I like thinking that a creation will be passed down from generation to generation as a treasure. “A design starts with me delving into the books of the maison. I love spending time in the archives – then all of a sudden an idea pops into my head. It’s a special feeling when you realise you know just what the next creation will look like. I haven’t designed my favourite piece of jewellery yet. I like to imagine the most meaningful creation is still to come, and I think of this each time

I start drawing. Once I find a concept, I work with my team to find the perfect design. We discuss the creative objective and the final look we want to give it with our chef d’atelier. Afterwards, we select the stones for the setting with our stone hunter, Thierry Robert. The more complicated and intricate designs will of course take longer; the Trésor de Perse took more than 2,000 hours. “Many of the craftsmen have worked at the company for a long time; it’s a real family. Thierry has worked here for more than 40 years; he took over from his father, who held the same role for 50 years. Maison Boucheron is full of tradition, expertise, heritage and history. It’s a pleasure for me to work for the first jeweller on the Place Vendôme, and I’m proud to make a little contribution to Boucheron’s rich history.”

FROM TOP Boucheron 18kt white-gold and diamond Toi et Moi Serpent Bohème High Jewellery ring and 18kt white-gold and diamond

Quatre High Jewellery ring; both prices on request. Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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ETHAN KOH

“One of my fondest memories is of seeing my mother wearing a sapphireblue dress, which she wore with a gorgeous blue bag. I knew then that I wanted to design bags. I always had a vivid imagination, thanks to my mother reading me Hans Christian Anderson fairy tales and my grandfather telling me that our garden was magical because it was once a crocodile farm. When I first started sketching, I would draw animals I had heard about in these stories, and they eventually became the inspiration for some of the clasps on my bags. “I want people to carry a piece of my heritage and my journey with my designs, so I try to introduce my

Asian culture into them. Growing up in Singapore, I was surrounded by the colours of flowers, dragon fruits and calamansi limes, which still grow in our family garden. “I take many trips to Singapore markets to buy native fruits; we use them to dye the skins. I have four generations of knowledge when it comes to exotic skins. The way they’re treated and cared for is indicative of the special tanning techniques that my great-grandfather learned from British traders in Singapore. Once they’re tanned, they’re taken to my ateliers in Tuscany. I go there often to make sure each element of the creations is perfectly handmade. The skill is in the hand of the artisan, and that’s what gives life to each piece. It is the essence of luxury. It gives luxury a soul.”

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Ethan K Alla bag in crocodile with amethysts from £7,040, Minaudière clutch in crocodile from £3,200, and Rapunzel clutch in crocodile £2,900. Available from Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor

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Koh and Green photographs Kevin Davies

Founder & designer, Ethan K

M A DE W I T H L OV E

SUE GREEN

Figure maker, Wedgwood “I’ve been a figure maker at Wedgwood for 36 years, and I truly enjoy it. Every design has its artistic challenges, which I love. Each one involves a high level of skill that I’ve been able to develop in my time here. The trouble is, you can get quite attached to some of the pieces as you make them. I have managed to accumulate quite a lot of Wedgwood over the years. Josiah Wedgwood was 29 years old when he developed Queen’s Ware, black basalt and Jasperware. These are still sold today, 250 years on. That’s because artisans here faithfully recreate each one still using some of Josiah’s original techniques. The Panther vase is a great example; to make one requires a craftsman to have mastered engine turning – a technique Josiah invented that involves spinning pottery on a wheel against shaping tools to create the striped, fluted effect. Letting people customise their own Panther vase is something that’s new to us. They can have it in any colours they like, using shades from our archive. I think this is such a great way to highlight the time-honoured skills at Wedgwood. It shows that each design really is made from scratch – and with love. It will give clients something personal that they can treasure forever.” Wedgwood Panther vase £3,000. Available from Wedgwood, Second Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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GRANT MACDONALD

Founder & head designer, Grant Macdonald “I’ve always wanted to use my hands to make things, and when I was a young lad I can remember melting scraps of lead on a Bunsen burner, and pouring the molten metal into shapes. When I was 14 my father, who was a doctor, suggested I meet one of his patients, who had a hobby workshop at home. That hobby turned out to be silversmithing. One Saturday afternoon, I was shown how to make a silver spoon. I melted the silver into a ball for the top of the handle, twisted a piece of square wire for the handle, then sunk the bowl of the spoon with a hammer. Once it was soldered together, the spoon seemed to come alive; I still have it at home. “I founded my business in 1969 after leaving art school in London. I hope that after 45 years of talking to customers, I’m still coming up with successful designs, and this drives me to produce new work. The company is not a one-man show; it’s now over 20 people strong. Outside the workshop I rely on engravers, enamellers, stonecutters and diamond setters to take care of the small details. I’ve known them for 20 or 30 years, so we understand what’s needed to put on the final touches and embellishments to make a piece complete. “We don’t make consumable or even fashionable pieces; we create silver and gold designs that will last generations. I have a small jug at home that was made by the eminent silversmith Paul Storr, who was born in 1771. It was handed down to me by my father and to him by his father. This little jug proves that a piece of silver can last forever if it’s loved and cherished.” Grant Macdonald Cadogan limited-edition clock £13,900; exclusive to Harrods. Available from Luxury Home, Second Floor

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ADRIANA BELLES

Macdonald & Belles photographs Kevin Davies

Studio seamstress, Squint

“My grandmother taught me to sew as a teenager; and then I knew I wanted to be in fashion and textiles in some way. I’ve never worked in a studio like Squint’s before, and I don’t think there’s another company quite like it. We don’t design on a computer; everything is handmade, and some pieces are crafted by as many as 10 people. A Chesterfield sofa will need the legs, castors, frame and cushions to be made individually. Then there’s pattern cutting, upholstering and sewing. Therefore, each piece can be extremely labour intensive. Even repeat colourways are inevitably slightly different to the original, which means

everything we make is truly unique; it’s a much more interesting way to work than a conveyor-belt operation. “Lisa [Whatmough, Squint founder] sets the tone. We refine pieces until she’s satisfied with both design and finish. She values beauty and quality above all else, and she works closely with the clients to create the final look. “Once the fabrics are chosen, we put them together as we go along; that way, we achieve the best combinations. It takes six months to a year to become truly confident in making products the way we do. I know other companies create beautiful objects in new and hi-tech ways, but for us, the real pleasure is working with our hands, making something that’s special. It’s also really good fun.”

Squint Sidestrand chair, price on request. Available from Furniture, Third Floor

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“Pull quote goes here. The pull quote goes here and then pull quote goes here. The pull quote goes here and then pull quote goes here. The pull quote goes here and then pull quote goes here”

GLENN SPIRO “When I first started in the jewellery business, it was simply a way to earn money. But I got really lucky; the passion grew over the years. I particularly love buying wonderful gems and seeing a finished piece that was initially just a dream. I’ll never forget the day I sold my first piece in America, more than 25 years ago. A big group of buyers opened my little box of goodies and picked a pair of earrings as their star piece. It was a good day, with great memories. It certainly made the long flight home in economy far more pleasant! “I don’t follow trends; I try to encapsulate my own style and personality in each piece. Often, the gem itself dictates my design. The process begins with cutting the stone, which we prefer to do by hand. Technology produces the largest stone possible from a rough gem, but I believe our craftsmen are much better at identifying the true character and beauty of each one. “We’re known for our rare and wonderful gems, so our aim is to ensure they are placed in the most complementary settings possible. I love working with titanium; it allows the jewellery to be far more intricate. “Our team has worked together for a long time, and it takes a special person to join us. But when they do, they become part of the family and find it hard to leave. I hope that will never change.” FROM TOP G London 18kt white-gold and diamond bracelet and 18kt white-gold, diamond and pearl ring, both prices on request. Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

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Spiro photograph Kevin Davies

Founder, G London

NEWS

ROYAL REVIVAL For Autumn/Winter 2014, MCM has delved deep into its design archives, reinterpreting the timeless Cognac Visetos collection by adding a range of artisanal touches. A real standout is the updated Princess Boston bag, now with hand-pinned conical studs, chocolatebrown crystals and gold hardware. £795. Available from Designer Accessories, Lower Ground Floor

Initial success Back with armloads of styles we can’t wait to get our hands on, Mulberry has now introduced its bespoke service in-store. Pick your favourite leather and match the hardware; then have your initials printed (for no extra cost) on the leather tag next to the postman’s lock. Bayswater bag £895. Available from Luxury Accessories, Lower Ground Floor

PERSONAL touch

We’re used to expecting the unexpected from Anya Hindmarch – think the ultimate AW14 catwalk moment with her Daz and Tony-the-Tiger clutches and bags. However there’s a softer side to the kooky entrepreneur, especially when it comes to gift-giving. The Anya Hindmarch Bespoke collection is a range of leather pieces designed to be personalised; each journal, wallet or bag can be embossed with handwritten messages and drawings, while the Ultimate Box can have photos printed onto the satin linings of its drawers. Ultimate Box £1,595. Available from Luxury Accessories, Lower Ground Floor

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Custom clasps

The Analeena clutch, with its mix of vibrantly coloured exotic skins, is now a contemporary classic, as easily matched with a T-shirt and jeans as with a ballgown. And for those looking for personalisation, Analeena is offering a bespoke service throughout August; the clasp can be customised with initials picked out in diamonds. Amuse Bouche bag £7,280; initials from £1,000. Available from Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor

BUBBLES XXXXXX Dek ipsat lorem goes here please. The dek ipsat lorem goes here please. The dek ipsat lorem goes here please. The dek ipsat lorem goes here please. The dek ipsat lorem goes here pleaseg PHOTOGRAPHER FABIAN OEFNER

BAGS OF CHARM Hand-painted leather. Immaculate stitching. Fabulous velvet fringing. There’s something about distinctive detail that makes a bag exquisitely yours PHOTOGRAPHER CHRIS TURNER

FROM TOP Jimmy Choo bag £1,795; Chloé bag £1,765

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FROM TOP Salvatore Ferragamo bag £1,379; Proenza Schouler bag £1,230

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Burberry Prorsum bag ÂŁ17,500

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Stylist Becky Branch

M A DE W I T H L OV E

FROM TOP Nancy Gonzalez bag £2,575; Gucci bag £23,030, exclusive to Harrods

Available from Luxury Accessories, Lower Ground Floor and Ground Floor. For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app

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BESPOKE SERVICES From engraved jewels to personalised friendship bracelets, monogrammed linen to custom-made totes, bespoke services turn a gift into something special CARTIER

ASPINAL

With the Set For You by Cartier service, clients can create their own wedding and engagement rings, choosing the width and shape of the band as well as the size and setting of a diamond. The finished piece can be delivered in just a few weeks.

Makers of the classic structured tote, Aspinal allows clients to customise their own Marylebone bag, choosing from among 15 leathers as well as coloured stitching, metal finishes and embossing.

FABERGÉ

For the ultimate personal touch in bedroom luxury, personalise your bed linen with initials or a monogram. The Linen Shop can embroider linens or blankets using a range of typefaces and colours.

Russia’s most famous export – the Fabergé egg – can now be made bespoke with engravings of names, dates or special messages.

MONTBLANC

THE LINEN SHOP

Elegant handwriting calls for a suitable writing instrument. Montblanc pens have customisable nibs in solid gold. An embossing service is also available for the brand’s leather wallets, bags and phone cases.

G LONDON

ROYO/HALCYON GALLERY

TEA & COFFEE

Artist José Mateu San Hilario, known as Royo, cites Claude Monet and Joaquín Sorolla as his biggest influences. For a limited time, customers can commission the artist to paint a portrait in his studio in Spain.

Tea and coffee lovers can now develop their own signature blend using the range of choices available from the Food Halls. The blend is then packaged in a bespoke sleeve.

HARRY WINSTON By using the house’s portfolio of rings from the classic to the contemporary, customers can work with designers to create their dream engagement or wedding ring.

Like the Fiji friendship bracelet, the Esencia is set to become a new Monica Vinader classic. The range can be personalised on the inside or the outside with a name, date or personal message.

VILLARI

ABYSS

Artist Leone Villari will create porcelain figurines to any specifications. Customers can decide on colour and opt for precious metal or Swarovski-crystal finishes.

Hotel-quality towels can be made personal by Abyss. The brand can monogram names, letters or motifs in any colour, or create bath mats in special shapes.

For opulent jewellery unlike any other, rare gemstone specialist – and founder of G London – Glenn Spiro will create an individual piece from scratch.

MONICA VINADER

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POP ART

Vibrant. Volatile. A burst of special scent brings colour to every day PHOTOGRAPHER FABIAN OEFNER

RAMON MONEGAL, Dry Wood Sandalwood and cedar meld in a mist of amber, with surprising notes of cedrat, bay leaf and green moss peppering the composition. The addition of cashmeran – a woody, ambery molecule – gives the fragrance a wonderful softness that envelops the skin. 50ml, £130; exclusive to Harrods

DOLCE & GABBANA, Velvet Rose Evoking the sensorial pleasure of a Mediterranean summer, this soft, rosy scent is reminiscent of a fragrant, sun-drenched sea breeze. A bouquet of roses combines with lily and geranium to create a floral fragrance with a delicate but distinctive dewiness. 50ml, ÂŁ155; exclusive to Harrods

CLIVE CHRISTIAN, “L” For men. For women. “L” comes in a duo of decadent perfumes. The masculine version gradually warms its spicy freshness with vetiver, oud, Atlas cedar and musk, while femininity is captured in damask rose and jasmine, embraced by patchouli, vanilla and vetiver. Sophisticated without even trying. 50ml, £225

BOADICEA THE VICTORIOUS, Legend Described as a stealth fragrance, Legend opens with a whisper on the skin as neroli and mandarin add freshness to the central floral bouquet, before it develops into a much more dramatic statement. Inspired by the fragrance brand’s symbol, Queen Boadicea, a mingling of orris and oud are designed to portray strength and tenacity. 100ml, £595

JULIETTE HAS A GUN, Oil Fiction A limited edition with a wealth of oriental notes, crafted to reveal their luminescence. Such a voluptuous mix of amber, patchouli, iris, saffron and papyrus oil can’t fail to leave a suave and refined trail. 100ml, £250; exclusive to Harrods

ROJA PARFUMS “H” – The Exclusive Aoud Intensely rich, yet resolutely luminous, “H” captures all that makes fragrances exotic. Rare ingredients – such as jasmin de Grasse and rose de Mai – mingle on a base of patchouli, labdanum, birch, ultra-soft benzoin, gurjum, cypriol and oud. Created for Harrods by British Master Perfumer Roja Dove, this is a perfume that carries you away. 50ml, £395; exclusive to Harrods

BE AU T Y I have long loved Sisley’s Black Rose Cream Mask, and now the brand has developed its first facial oil for an extra surge of nourishment. The silky-smooth Black Rose Precious Face Oil contains camelina oil, rich in omega-3, to comfort dehydrated skin. Depending on your needs, massage three to seven drops into freshly cleansed skin – or I just like to use it on its own whenever I want my skin to look extra dewy. 25ml, £136

HIGH FIVE

Beauty Editor Jan Masters reveals her top ﬁve beauty treats for the month

Terry de Gunzburg has developed a trio of vibrant palettes – eyeshadow, bronzer and blusher – in universal shades to bring a hint of lively colour to your look this summer. For eyes, I love By Terry’s Midnight Blue because it encourages you to try something a touch more exciting than nude, while a wash of Blazing Sun gives a great complexionenhancing glow. For a flush of extra colour, dip into Coral Sunset, applying it to the apples of your cheeks. £145 each

I’m fond of florals, but intrigued by oud’s rich, raw edge, so I was interested to see Lancôme celebrating this prized ingredient by placing oud at the centre of its new creation, Oud Bouquet. Softened with a veil of rose petals, the mellow accents of deep, resinous oud are complemented with aromatic saffron and then sweetened with an infusion of vanilla and praline notes. 75ml, £120

Capturing the wild sensuality of the Fendi woman, Furiosa Fendi is encased in a bottle inspired by abstract animal prints designed by Delfina Delettrez Fendi. The new fragrance opens with a fresh blend of pink peppercorn and bergamot, and then unfurls to reveal a bold but feminine heart of violaciocca flower, jasmine and gardenia. The base, meanwhile, is an intoxicating mix of incense and amber accords. 100ml, £90

All products are exclusive to Harrods. Available from The Cosmetics and Perfumery Halls, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

Incense smoke Getty Images; petals iStock

First there was Dolce & Gabbana fragrance. Then impossibly glamorous make-up. Now the Italian designers are launching a range of luxurious skincare designed to enhance your natural beauty. From a superb range of purifying Essentials to the Aurealux collection with its Gold Flavo-Silk Tricomplex that delivers amazing moisture and radiance, it’s tough to choose a favourite. If I must, though, it has to be the Aurealux Cream – quite simply, it gives skin a wonderful bounce-back quality and, unfussily, it can be used both day and night. Cream 50ml, £84

BE AU T Y

The DARK ARTS

Inspired by leather. Laced with attitude. YSL’s European Make-up Artist, Fred Letailleur, shows how to create striking looks for day and night with the new Black Fetish collection BY JAN MASTERS / PHOTOGRAPHER RACHELL SMITH

POLISHED PERFECTION STEP 1: In the buff “Hydrate with Forever Youth Liberator Serum and Eye Zone Serum. Then apply five dots of the new light – but long-lasting – matte Fusion Ink foundation to the forehead, cheeks and chin using the applicator. For more coverage, add a little extra. Buff using a circular movement for a natural look. Finish with Baby Doll Kiss & Blush in Nude Insolent.”

STEP 2: “C” is for contour “Apply Touche Éclat to the inner and outer corners of the eyes. Then use it again to highlight the cheekbones, between the brows, the bridge of the nose, and to define lips – trace them with the brush, then blend. Switch to a warmer shade of Touche Éclat and draw a line through the cheeks, then create a “C” shape over the temple and blend. Swirl gold and bronze from the Palette Fétiche 5-Color Ready-to-Wear under the lower lid. Mix Gloss Volupté in Pure (for lips) with a little of both shades, then sweep into a wing shape.”

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FINAL FLOURISH “Apply Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils Baby Doll in Rock Ultra-Black and, for lips, Rouge Pur Couture The Mats in Rose Perfecto.” YSL Palette Fétiche 5-Color Ready-to-Wear £42, Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils Baby Doll in Rock Ultra-Black £24.50; BELOW, FROM LEFT YSL Forever Youth Liberator Serum £85, Forever Youth Liberator Eye Zone Serum £48, Fusion Ink foundation £31, Baby Doll Kiss & Blush in Nude Insolent £27, Touche Éclat £25, Gloss Volupté in Pure £21, Rouge Pur Couture The Mats in Rose Perfecto £25

BE AU T Y

DRAMA QUEEN

STEP 2: Watch my lips

STEP 1: Deep and intense

“Define the contour of the lips using Touche Éclat, targeting the Cupid’s bow – using two fingers to press the brush into a fan shape will help with precise application. Apply Rouge Pur Couture The Mats in Red Rhythm using a wide, flat, synthetic brush; to make it chic and edgy, roll the brush over the lipstick bullet to pick up colour on both the flat side and the edge before applying. Cover the lips, working inwards from the corners with an even stroke, and use the edge of the brush to define – there’s no need to use liner.”

“Prep the skin as before and apply Fusion Ink foundation. Use Touche Éclat to smooth the eyelids, then draw along the waterline of the top and lower lids with the Dessin Du Regard Eye Pencil. Create a triangle on the outer third of the eye using the black matte from the Palette Fétiche. This can be quite freehand. Next, use the mid-brown on the middle of the lid, working it from the lash line to the socket line, then underneath the lashes towards the outer corner for a cat’s eye effect. Apply the gold into the inner corner of the eye, taking it to the brow, and use a blender brush to soften the edges. Finish with the mascara as before.”

Hair YOSHI MIYAZAKI Model OXANA at Select Photographer’s Assistants BENNY JOHNSON, OLIVER RUDKIN and LUBE SAVESKI

END NOTE “Finish with Baby Doll Kiss & Blush in Fuchsia Désinvolte. Apply three dots to the apple of the cheek, work it downwards for softness, and blend with a foundation brush.” YSL Fusion Ink foundation £31, Touche Éclat £25; BELOW, FROM LEFT YSL Palette Fétiche 5-Color Ready-to-Wear £42, Dessin Du Regard Eye Pencil in Black £19.50, Mascara Volume Effet Faux Cils Baby Doll in Rock Ultra-Black £24.50, Rouge Pur Couture The Mats in Red Rhythm £25, Baby Doll Kiss & Blush in Fuchsia Désinvolte £27 THIS PAGE Roland Mouret top £625; OPPOSITE PAGE Issa gown £1,299

Available from The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor; International Designer and Studio, First Floor; and harrods.com . To watch a video of this feature, download the Harrods Magazine app

NEWS

IT TAKES TWO ALL EYES Whether you choose to rock bold, smoky eyes or keep them flirty with a ’60s-style flick, Givenchy’s new Liner Couture Precision Felt-tip Eyeliner is the new must-try tool. The nib tapers to a point that makes tracing the lash line simple. And the lightweight emulsion isn’t too wet or too dry, in a shade of black that has great depth. Perfect when partnered with Givenchy’s Extreme Volume Mascara for instant impact. £23.50. Available from The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor

UPGRADE to HD

On sparkling form

Natura Bissé’s new High Density Lift has been formulated with PDGF-Remodeling Complex to improve contours by boosting the quality of collagen and elastin in the skin. The cream also features two kinds of hyaluronic HJPK [V OLSW ÄSS ÄUL SPULZ.

Tom Ford’s Neroli Portofino from his Private Blend Collection has been such a hit that fans will be delighted to hear that there are two new additions to the line, both celebrating the atmosphere of the Mediterranean. Mandarino di Amalfi opens with ingredients inspired by the Italian coast, such as herbaceous tarragon and spearmint, mingling with mandarin, bergamot and grapefruit. At its heart, enjoy sparkling orange flower and jasmine. The second fragrance, Costa Azzurra, evokes Mediterranean woods, where pines and oaks mix with wild herbs and salty water. Juniper berry, lavender, cypress and vetiver add to its seductive powers. 50ml, £142. Available from The Gentleman’s Lounge, Lower Ground Floor; and The Colour, Cosmetics and Perfumery Halls, Ground Floor

£234; exclusive to Harrods. Available from The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor

GEE-FIZZ For an effervescent spin on nail colour, OPI has collaborated with The Coca-Cola Company to create a range of nine shades inspired by soft drinks. There’s everything from a classic crimson called Coca-Cola Red, to Green on the Runway – a bright lime inspired by a can of Sprite. Tapping into the nude trend, there’s You’re So Vain-illa, a creamy pink celebrating Vanilla Coke. Meanwhile, for something more dramatic, click your fingers and order up a black enamel with a red sparkle… called Today I Accomplished Zero. And make it snappy. £12 each. Available from The Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor

Model Camera Press; splash iStockphoto

The Japanese have long loved “double-cleansing” – removing oil-based impurities such as makeup with one product, then washing off waterbased impurities (like perspiration), as well as any residue from the first step, with another. If that appeals, try Sensai’s new Silky Purifying line with Koishimaru Silk EX, which promotes the synthesis of hyaluronic acid in the skin; it also contains moisturising ginseng. Every skin type is catered for, with the line-up including Cleansing Oil, to rapidly dissolve make-up; Cleansing Gel, a rinse-off scrub; Creamy Soap, which leaves skin soft and fresh; and Mud Soap, which doubles up as a wash and mask. From left Mud Soap, Creamy Soap, Cleansing Oil and Cleansing Gel £40 each; exclusive to Harrods. Available from The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor

MISS HEAVEN SCENT searches for the ultimate romance Last week, a friend asked me to recommend the world’s most romantic fragrance to give to someone who was getting married. I hesitated; fragrance is so subjective. And while we all agree that flowers, long, floaty gowns and happy endings are romantic, we might not be so united when it comes to scent. So, to answer my friend in the most objective way, I looked to the houses whose names are synonymous with amour to see how they have conjured this mood into fragrance. First, I found myself in the company of the fine jewellers (diamonds, after all, are right up there on the romance scale). Legend has it that Frédéric Boucheron picked No. 26 Place Vendôme for his boutique because it was the sunniest corner of the square, ensuring his diamonds would shine the brightest. This summer, after the launch of Place Vendôme Eau de Parfum, the Parisian house continues to pay tribute to this glorious history with the launch of Place Vendôme Eau de Toilette; a scent inspired by the beauty and clarity of diamonds, this light-filled fragrance has a heart of rose and jasmine, grounded with sensual white musk. A few doors away, at Van Cleef & Arpels, a collection of jewels inspired by the breathtaking scenery of the FROM TOP Boucheron Place Californian coastline has led to a new Vendôme Eau de Toilette fragrance: California Rêverie. Part of 100ml, £69; Van Cleef & the house’s Collection Extraordinaire, Arpels California Rêverie in which each fragrance focuses on one 75ml, £126; La Perla J’Aime Gold Edition 100ml, £69; ingredient, California Rêverie is an Agent Provocateur Fatale exquisite ode to jasmine, mixed with 100ml, £62. Available from dreaminess and fantasy in a way that The Perfumery Hall, Ground only Van Cleef & Arpels knows how. Floor; Lingerie, First Floor; I went on to try scents from lingerie and harrods.com houses, whose feather-light fabrics and French lace are themselves lessons in romance. This month, La Perla is launching J’Aime Gold Edition, a scent that takes its lead from the sumptuous Italian attitude at the heart of the house. A warm gourmand base is balanced with a floral heart and spicy, sparkly opening notes of bergamot and black pepper. Meanwhile, a more seductive interpretation of romance is immortalised in Agent Provocateur’s new fragrance, Fatale. All 1940s old-school glamour, the scent wraps up fruity top notes, gardenia and chocolate in a manner so delicate that it rivals even the softest of silks. – By Fleur Fruzza

Prop stylist Jennifer Kay

Pass the parcel

With an outer layer of mozzarella and a creamy ﬁlling, burrata is the new big cheese of summer BY PATRICK M C GUIGAN / PHOTOGRAPHER MOWIE KAY FOOD STYLING & RECIPES EMMA MARSDEN

HOMEWARES, FROM LEFT Wedgwood Ashlar

8-inch bowl £16; Alessi Eat It mocha spoon £5; Villeroy & Boch Anmut 15cm bowl £11.95 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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shaped into little bags, which are filled with stracciatella and tied at the top. Traditionally, burrata was wrapped in leaves of asphodel, a herb-like plant similar to a leek, which gave the cheese an unmistakable aroma and acted as a natural best-before indicator: if the green leaves had faded, the cheese was old and best avoided. These days, burrata is more likely to be packaged in small bags or sold loose in tubs of brine. Like mozzarella, the cheese is best eaten young. In Puglia, they serve it simply with crusty durum-wheat bread, ripe tomatoes and a splash of olive oil. But the comforting creaminess of the cheese also makes it a perfect match for strong flavours. Chef Yotam Ottolenghi uses burrata in a dish with blood oranges, coriander seeds and lavender oil at his Soho restaurant Nopi, while Jason Atherton presents it with quince, pear, truffled honey and pickled walnuts at Little Social in Mayfair. Antoniazzi likes gooey hunks of burrata and San Daniele ham as a pizza topping, while a scattering of berries and a drizzle of honey transforms it into a simple dessert. “One of my customers serves it with shavings of black truffle, and I’ve seen chefs use the filling instead of butter to finish off a risotto,” Antoniazzi says. “But my favourite way of eating burrata is to grate bottarga [salted, cured grey-mullet roe] over the top. The saltiness of the roe acts like a seasoning. It’s such a pure and creamy cheese that it carries other flavours really well.” HMN

TOP Alessi Eat It pastry fork £7.50; burrata £30 per kg; ABOVE A cheesemaker makes parcels of burrata in Puglia

Burrata available from Food Halls, Ground Floor. Homewares available from The Gourmet Cookshop, Villeroy & Boch and Wedgwood, Second Floor. For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app Patrick McGuigan writes for Square Meal, ShortList and Restaurant

Cheesemaker Alamy

t’s hard to walk anywhere in Puglia without bumping into an olive tree or tripping over a grape vine. The region’s fertile plains, which stretch along the heel on the boot of Italy, are carpeted with more than 60 million olive trees and hundreds of vineyards that flourish under the baking sun. The resulting fruity olive oils and lusty red wines are much loved by locals, but it’s a very special cheese that has lately become a must-have ingredient for London’s top chefs. Sales of burrata – a rich, decadent cousin of mozzarella – have rocketed in the United Kingdom in recent years, with the creamy formaggio appearing on menus in everything from salads and risottos to pizzas and even puddings. The outer shell of the cheese is made from cow’s-milk mozzarella. But cut into it and out oozes a gloriously rich filling called stracciatella, made from ribbons of mozzarella and a healthy dose of cream. Chefs in the UK love its fresh flavour and versatility so much that burrata – according to Fabio Antoniazzi of La Credenza, an Italian food importer that supplies London’s best restaurants – is now threatening to become the Italian cheese of choice in the kitchen. “When we set up the business, in 2001, everyone wanted mozzarella,” says Antoniazzi. “But we started importing burrata four years later and it just took off. Now I sell the same amount of burrata as I do buffalo mozzarella. All the chefs want it; we’re even selling it to French restaurants.” Named after the Italian word for butter (burro) because of its consistency, burrata originally hails from Andria, about 60km from Bari, but there are conflicting opinions about its precise history. Some say it was invented by a thrifty cheesemaker in the 1920s as a way of using leftover scraps of curd, which were mixed with cream to make a delicious filling for mozzarella. Others say the cheese was the idea of a dairy farmer who was snowed in one winter, and tried to save his milk by skimming off the cream and storing it in little pouches of cheese. La Credenza sources burrata from a family-owned business called Maldera near the town of Corato, not far from Andria. Set up in 2006 by Giuseppe Maldera, whose father and grandfather spent their entire lives making mozzarella, the business has become a specialist in burrata, growing rapidly as demand for the cheese has gathered pace. Expansion has not, however, altered the company’s traditional methods. “Maldera is a big producer, but they work in a very artisan way,” Antoniazzi explains. “They collect the milk from local farmers in Puglia and do everything by hand.” Making burrata requires considerable skill and dexterity. Watching Maldera’s workers transform the slippery, doughlike curd into neat spheres of cheese with just a flick of the wrist is mesmerising, akin to watching master sculptors at work. In common with all cheese, rennet is added to the milk. This produces a springy curd, which is plunged into hot water and repeatedly stretched and kneaded. Known as pasta filata (“spun paste”), the technique gives the curd the supple, silky texture that is the hallmark of good mozzarella. Small balls of cheese are then twisted from the main curd by hand and

CRAB AND BURRATA TARTS WITH CAVIAR Serves 6

BURRATA WITH COURGETTES, BASIL AND CHILLI Serves 4

For the pastry 180g plain flour 90g butter, chilled and chopped 1 egg yolk For the filling 10g butter 1 tbsp olive oil 4 spring onions, finely chopped 1 bulb of fennel, finely chopped 100ml dry white wine or vegetable stock 2 balls (roughly 200g each) of burrata 100g fresh white crab meat About 1 tbsp mizuna leaves 50g caviar

Serve with... Domaine Doyard Cuvée Vendémiaire Champagne NV, France, £38.95

1 Place the flour and butter in a food processor. Season well, then whizz until the mixture resembles fine breadcrumbs. Add the egg yolk and 2 tbsp cold water. Pulse several times to mix in. 2 In a bowl, knead the mixture lightly until smooth. Wrap in clingfilm and chill for 10 minutes. 3 Divide the dough into six pieces; roll each piece into 3mm-thick rounds, fit into 8.5cm tartlet tins and then trim the edges. Prick the dough all over and chill for 15 minutes. 4 Place a baking sheet in the oven and preheat to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6. Cover each pastry case with baking parchment and fill with baking beans. Bake for 12–15 minutes until set and golden. 5 For the filling, heat the butter and olive oil in a small pan. Once the butter has melted, add the spring onions and fennel. Cover with a lid and turn the heat to low. Cook for 5–8 minutes until the vegetables have started to soften and are just starting to colour. 6 Pour in the wine and bring to the boil. Cover again and simmer until the fennel is tender. Whizz half the mixture in a mini food processor to make a purée; return the purée to the pan and season to taste. 7 Divide the purée equally among the six tart tins. Carefully slice the burrata and arrange on top, then scatter the crab meat over each one. Place a mizuna leaf on top of each piece of burrata, then spoon the caviar into the middle. Serve straight away.

Wedgwood Ashlar 6-inch plate £12 and 8-inch plate £16; Alessi Eat It pastry fork £7.50, Glass Family tumbler £5.50 and Mami XL white wine glass £17 for a set of 2

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15g basil leaves 100ml extra virgin olive oil 2 tbsp olive oil 1 red chilli, finely chopped 4 baby courgettes, finely sliced 2 balls (roughly 200g each) of burrata 8 slices prosciutto crudo 2 tbsp red amaranth, to garnish

1 Put the basil leaves into a mini food processor with the extra virgin olive oil and season well. Whizz to make a smooth dressing. Set aside. 2 Heat the 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a pan and add the chilli. Cook for 1 minute, then add the courgettes. Continue to cook for 1–2 minutes until the courgettes are cooked through and just tender. Season well. 3 Arrange the courgettes among four plates. Quarter the balls of burrata and divide among the plates. Fold the prosciutto into small rolls and tuck it around the burrata, along with the amaranth. 4 Drizzle a little of the basil oil around the outside, then serve.

Serve with...

Cook’s tip Store any leftover basil oil in the fridge for up to two weeks. Use to dress fresh pasta, or drizzle over grilled meat and fish.

Elena Walch Gewürztraminer 2012, Italy, £19.95

Alessi Ku flat plate £14 and Mami XL white wine glass £17 for a set of 2; Villeroy & Boch Anmut 13cm bowl £17.95

FOOD

The PASTA SAUCES

Ambroso Organic Honey with Lavender Blossom 340g, £18.95

Wildly Delicious Roasted Garlic & Parmesan Bread Dipper 375ml, £7.95

Wildly Delicious Kalamata Olive & Lemon Tapenade 220g, £5.50

Primvs Pesto Genovese With Basil DOP 180g, £12.95

Don Antonio Green Olives in Rosemary Oil 280g, £6.25

Primvs Pomodori Pelati 520g, £10.95

Italian ACCENTS Maison de la Truffe Butter Cream with Black Truffle 85g, £8.75

Burrata’s creamy texture makes it remarkably compatible with other ﬂavours

Frescobaldi Tomato and Basil Sauce 340g, £7.50

Harrods Extra Virgin Olive Oil Infused with Fresh Basil 250ml, £7.95

Primvs Pasta di Gragnano Rigatoni 500g, £6.25

Leonardi Balsamic Glaze with Figs 210g, £4.95

Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

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Maison de la Truffe Summer Truffle Tagliatelle 250g, £15.95

Burrata photograph Mowie Kay; food styling Emma Marsden

Fendi dress £1,530

FOOD

Smart CASUAL

His restaurants have earned Michelin stars, but Marcus Wareing’s goal with his new venture, Tredwell’s, is to democratise ﬁne dining BY AMY BROOMFIELD

Marcus Wareing is a driven man. Inspired by his father, a fruit and potato merchant, he began cooking in a professional kitchen at 14. “I wanted a job that gave me an insight into food and the chance to meet people.” By the age of 18, Wareing had secured a job at The Savoy, training as a commis chef under Anton Edelmann. In 1993, he moved to Le Gavroche to work with Albert Roux. Today, he is chef patron at the newly reopened Marcus (formerly Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley), The Gilbert Scott, the St Pancras Renaissance London Hotel and his latest venture, Tredwell’s. Clearly, he’s a man who thrives on a hectic schedule. Tredwell’s in Covent Garden, like Marcus, is fuelled by his determination to take the stuffiness out of fine dining. “Michelin doesn’t actually have any rules about what a Michelin-starred restaurant should be,” he says. “People choose luxury restaurants because they expect a level of hospitality; we want to deliver that, but in a more relaxed environment.” And, true to Wareing’s style, the menu is decidedly British and uses locally sourced ingredients. Here, Wareing shares his recipe for one of his favourite autumn dishes. “It’s a delicious way to celebrate the British game season,” he says. “Bacon is an ideal accompaniment to grouse, while the chicken liver pâté enhances the earthiness of the dish.”

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GROUSE & CHICKEN LIVER PÂTÉ Serves 4 For the pâté 1 tbsp vegetable oil 100g chicken livers ½ onion, sliced 1 clove garlic, peeled and finely diced 2 tbsp brandy 2 tbsp port 50g butter, melted For the grouse and sauce 2 tbsp vegetable oil 4 grouse 50g butter ¼ bunch thyme 2 bay leaves 3 cloves garlic, peeled and lightly smashed 100ml red wine 1 tbsp red wine vinegar or sherry vinegar 200ml chicken stock 2 tbsp redcurrant jelly 8 rashers streaky bacon, crispy

For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app

1 To make the pâté, place a large frying pan on a high heat and add a little vegetable oil. When the oil is almost smoking, season the livers with salt and place them in the pan. Sear until the livers are browned all over, then transfer them to a blender. 2 Add the rest of the vegetable oil to the pan, then the onion and garlic, and cook until lightly golden. Add the brandy and port and continue to cook, stirring until the liquid has almost all evaporated. Transfer to the blender and blitz the mixture until smooth. With the motor running, drizzle in the butter. Pass the mixture through a fine sieve into a bowl. Refrigerate for two hours. 3 For the grouse, preheat the oven to 180°C/ 350°F/Gas 4. Pour the vegetable oil into an ovenproof frying pan and place over a low heat. Season the grouse, then brown it in the hot oil. Add the butter, herbs and garlic. When the butter starts foaming, spoon it over the grouse, then place the entire frying pan in the oven for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, place the grouse on a platter and leave the meat to rest for 10 minutes while you finish the sauce. 4 For the sauce, heat the oil left in the pan until foaming, then deglaze it with the red wine and vinegar. Simmer until the liquid has reduced by half, then add the stock and reduce by half again. Add the redcurrant jelly and season to taste. Strain through a fine sieve and keep hot. 5 Carve the grouse, slicing down either side of the breastbone. Serve the pâté on toasted brioche along with the grouse and bacon.

Park LIFE

Nothing says summer like dining alfresco, and now the experience is better than ever with a selection of gourmet foods and wines BY AMY BROOMFIELD PHOTOGRAPHER HOWARD SHOOTER

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There are some things you expect to see in a classic British picnic hamper: creamy smoked cheeses, salty cured meats, a hearty deepfilled pie and Premier Cru Champagne. Harrods Picnics offers all that and more, with a choice of four set hampers that include beef, smoked chicken or pork pies as well as vegetarian options such as spinach and goat’s cheese quiche, grilled halloumi salad, and French bean, mangetout and hazelnut salad. And to finish, there’s strawberry and rose mascarpone tart or cherry pie, best enjoyed with Harrods Champagne or La Mortuacienne’s fizzy drinks in vintage-style bottles. The set hampers start from £70; alternatively, customers can create customised picnics, choosing from a range of fresh foods on the traiteur counter. Available from Food Order Desk, Food Halls, Ground Floor

Stylist Jennifer Kay

FOOD

WINE

Heard it through the

GRAPEVINE

A secret to picking the best wines for the summer months is to transport yourself to the region – and Provence is an excellent place to start

There are many approaches to choosing wine suited to the warmer months of the year. On the whole, going by grape variety rather than region pays dividends. Rieslings, for example, are generally suited to sweltering temperatures, being mostly light in alcohol and delicate in texture. Chardonnay is less straightforward, its sometimes oaky notes and oily texture getting a touch cloying as the mercury on the thermometer rises. The same rules apply to reds – silky pinot noir is a far more appealing proposition when dining alfresco than a big, bruising shiraz. Earmarking whole regions for sunny days is naturally more challenging, given the swathes of different styles available in even, say, just western Australia. Equally, we’ve all been seduced by a local wine we’ve enjoyed while holidaying in an undiscovered enclave of Cyprus/Portugal/ Turkey, only to bring it home and find it’s not quite so enticing when opened in Berkshire. If there’s a wine that screams summer, though, it’s surely Provence rosé, a tipple that it’s inconceivable to imagine drinking at any other time of year. From the lavenderscented, sun-drenched charm of its landscape to the pale, ballet-slipper pink of its signature wine, Provence radiates warmth. Its rosés provide the perfect summer partner, and the region’s two standout names are arguably the only producers in the world known primarily for this style of wine. Domaines Ott and Château d’Esclans are not merely Provence’s leading exponents of rosé, they are global benchmarks for the category. Ott has more than a century’s heritage to its name and, since coming under the ownership of Louis Roederer Champagne 10 years ago, has reached new levels of excellence. Its 2013 Clos Mireille Côtes de Provence rosé (£38.50) is a classic example of the genre, beautifully fresh thanks to the cool sea breeze, but with lifted raspberry, lemon and white flower notes. Château d’Esclans has also had a new owner in the past decade – Sacha Lichine (previously of Bordeauxclassed growth Prieuré Lichine) took over in 2006 with the understated aim of creating the best rosé in the world. He enlisted the help of Patrick Léon, former winemaker at Mouton Rothschild, to achieve the feat, and the 2013 incarnation of his flagship wine, Caves d’Esclans Whispering Angel (£24.50), with its delicate, cherry-kissed tones and herbal hints, suggests he’s not far off. Provence doesn’t tend to produce sparkling rosés – at least not in the literal sense of the term – so if you want bubbles in your summer rosé, head for Champagne. Of particular note is Piper-Heidsieck’s Rosé Sauvage NV (£54.95), which certainly lives up to its name with notes of wild strawberry and raspberry allied

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TOP One of Provence’s many vineyards; ABOVE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Caves

d’Esclans Whispering Angel £24.50; PiperHeidsieck Rosé Sauvage £54.95; Joseph Voillot 2012 Bourgogne Pinot Noir £26.95; Mouton Cadet 2011 Réserve Graves Blanc £19.95

to a certain smokiness and structure typical of the house. Back with the “going-by-grape-variety” policy, sauvignon blanc has natural summer symmetry with its zesty, often citrus-influenced palate. The Loire Valley is its spiritual home and Henri Bourgeois’ 2013 Sauvignon Blanc Mont de Joie (£12.50) shows why – its grassy, gooseberry tones are perfect for kicking back. For a fatter rendition, head for Bordeaux; the 2011 Mouton Cadet Réserve Graves Blanc (£19.95) is typical of the region in blending sauvignon with sémillon for a slightly rounder mouth feel. For a chardonnay that works as the temperature soars, you want something linear and steely. Step forward Chablis, and notably the 2013 from Vincent Dampt (£16.95), which marries flinty minerality with tropical fruit. Chablis sits apart from most white Burgundies due to its lean nature – in fact the region’s reds, made from pinot noir, often work better than its whites in the summer months. For pinot noirs whose light, red fruit tones make them great candidates for light chilling, look for the 2012 Bachelet-Monnot Maranges 1er cru Clos de la Boutière (£28.95) or Joseph Voillot’s 2012 Bourgogne Pinot Noir (£26.95). And if you really want to follow an unorthodox theme, who better to turn to than Austrian maverick Willi Opitz, who once released a CD of the sounds of wine fermenting? His Opitz One Mr President (originally made for and sent to Bill Clinton; 2010, £44.95) is a sweet red made from dried grapes that works surprisingly well deeply chilled with a summer fruits dessert. HMN Available from The Wine Rooms, Lower Ground Floor Guy Woodward is the former editor of Decanter magazine

Vineyard Rex Features

BY GUY WOODWARD

NEWS

Seasonal exotic fruits

Kitchen diner

King of Cognacs

Fine Champagne Cognac is the pinnacle of Cognac, representing the purest expression of the region’s brandy. Rémy Martin has specialised in the variety for nearly three centuries, and this month sees the latest release of the jewel in its crown, Centaure de Diamant. Pierrette Trichet, Rémy Martin’s cellar master, has selected up to 400 of the very best eaux-de-vie, and polished them – like a precious stone – to develop the full aromatic spectrum of the blend. With myriad aromas from plum melt and hazelnuts to delicate hints of orange, added to a subtle touch of jasmine, this is a truly special release, made more so by the diamondcontoured glass bottle and presentation case. £800. Available from The Spirits Room, Lower Ground Floor

CHOCKTAIL HOUR Parisian chocolatier La Maison du Chocolat has teamed up with awardwinning mixologist Maxime Hoerth of Hôtel Le Bristol to create an inventive array of cocktail-inspired chocolates. The Spirited Cocktails collection includes the Bellini, which mixes dark chocolate ganache with the fresh flavour of peach liqueur and Champagne. The Faubourg, meanwhile, balances the sweetness of passion fruit and Bourbon vanilla with the acidity of lemon honey. For once, it’s a good idea to mix your drinks. Box of 8, £13; box of 27, £32. Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor

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Lychee Slightly larger than a grape, China’s national fruit has a pink, prickly skin, under which is soft, deliciously sweet white flesh.

Custard apple This knobbly green fruit is packed with vitamins A, B6 and C, as well as dietary fibre and antioxidants. It has a grainy texture and a custard-like taste.

Baby pineapple The miniature fruit has a sweet yet tangy taste, similar to its larger counterpart, but the flesh is much softer, making it ideal for salads or cocktails.

Pitaya Known as the dragon fruit, the pitaya has a yellow skin and a white flesh peppered with tiny black seeds. Its sweet taste is said to be a mixture of melon, kiwi and pear.

Granadillo passion fruit Originally from South America, the granadillo has a shiny orange rind and a sweet-and-sour flavour. Like its purple relative, it contains a jelly-like pulp with black seeds. Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor

All seasonal fruits Alamy

The joy of shopping can be hungry work and a trip to The Kitchen is the perfect break. The menu offers a mixture of Mexican- and Americanstyle street food, and includes sharing plates of grilled coconut prawns with chipotle mayonnaise, crispy fried sweet potatoes and spiced chicken wings. Individual mains include pulled pork, spiced crayfish tostadas, and hot dogs topped with either melted cheese or 48-hour chocolate-chilli beef. For dessert, meanwhile, there are sugared churros with chocolate dip or cajeta ice cream, a traditional Mexican dessert made from caramelised milk. The Kitchen, Fourth Floor

IN TER IOR S

IT’S ALL ABOUT YOO

A collection of home furnishings curated by some of the interiors world’s brightest stars, Yoo Home combines high design with warmth and functionality BY AMY BROOMFIELD

Pieces from Yoo Home’s Classic range

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As the grandson of a property developer and the son of an architect, it might have been obvious that John Hitchcox was destined for a life in interior design; instead, he decided to travel the world. He finally made his way into interiors in the early 1990s, when he co-founded the Manhattan Loft Company, changing the way city dwellers viewed living spaces and helping influence developments such as Southwark’s Bankside. By 1999, Hitchcox had a black book filled with enough prolific designers to power his next entrepreneurial venture: Yoo. The company goes beyond interior design; it creates ready-made, branded residential properties and hotels with an aesthetic that has been finely tuned with the help of heavyweight designers. Today, Yoo’s work can be seen in 63 projects in 29 countries, and its popularity continues to grow. Here, Hitchcox tells Harrods Magazine about Yoo’s latest venture, Yoo Home. What is Yoo Home? In a nutshell, Yoo Home is a curated collection of furnishings that combines the best of contemporary interior design. We wanted to capture the distinctive warmth and sense of fun associated with the Yoo lifestyle brand and bring it to the retail market. We’ve done that by collaborating with the best designers – including our own Yoo Studio – and manufacturers in the industry. How did you dream up the idea? We’ve been creating homes for over 15 years, and that’s given us time to refine the Yoo style into something that’s not merely aesthetic, but works for people on a day-to-

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IN TER IOR S

day basis. We wanted to share our experience. We have a talented team of designers at Yoo and I think everyone felt we were ready to reach out to a wider audience. Who’s behind Yoo Home? We’re lucky enough to work with designers such as Philippe Starck and Marcel Wanders. Tell us about the new range… There are 160 pieces and it’s a pretty diverse collection. We’ve collaborated with both established names and rising stars to assemble a range of co-branded products that are distinctively Yoo. You’ll find something for every room of the house – beds, seating, storage and lighting. At least half of the collection will be exclusive to Yoo Home, and all the products will be made to order and available in custom versions. Our plan is to make Yoo Home almost like a fashion line, where we update the collection regularly, introducing and replacing new pieces every few months. I think this will appeal to people because it keeps the range fresh and means that, essentially, everything they buy will be a limited edition. Who are some of the designers that you use and how do you select them? We’re not committed to a single look, but to a carefully developed aesthetic, which results in a curated selection of the best of what’s out there at the time. This means we can champion innovative work by designers like Sean Dare, John Male and Bethan Gray. We’re extremely proud to showcase the work of the Yoo Studio for the first time in a retail environment. Yoo Home is all about interaction and inclusion; we want to work with our customers so that they can customise our collections.

Who are your biggest influences? Our Creative Directors – Philippe Starck, Jade Jagger, Marcel Wanders, Kelly Hoppen and Steve Leung; you’ll see their influence throughout the collection. They’ve all helped shape the Yoo style, and they’ve been a constant source of inspiration to our creative team. Talk us through the design process. Do you select a material first and visualise it in furniture, or do you design a piece first and try it in various materials? It’s not really that one comes before the other. It’s more about finding what works together. Obviously, there are pieces we like, but we have to make sure we bring out the best in them. To do that, we have a range of fabrics – everything from leather and linen to mohair and bold prints. It’s about achieving harmony between the piece and the upholstery. Is functionality an important factor? Absolutely. We’re on a constant journey of discovery when it comes to improving the quality of people’s lives in their homes. Functionality is essential. Your home is constantly changing as your life and family evolve. The Yoo Home collections recognise that we don’t live in the pages of glossy magazines, and that we need warmth and comfort as well as beautiful design. In some ways, making something visually appealing is the easy part. For me, Yoo Home had to be more than that. It has to work. What’s your favourite piece in the collection? Now that would be telling! HMN Available from Yoo Home, Third Floor; For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app

OPPOSITE PAGE, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Yoo Home Classic

bed £8,295, Ro chair £2,495, Nature dining table £6,500 and bench £1,995, Holland Park chair £425 and Classic console £3,995

THE DREAM TEAM: YOO HOME’S CREATIVE DIRECTORS

Philippe Starck

Jade Jagger

Ma rcel Wanders

Rarely is a contemporary space styled these days without Philippe Starck’s creative influence. The Parisian designer has changed the way we use colours, materials and space, whether it’s in a boutique hotel, a restaurant or a royal residence. So who better to propel Yoo’s design kudos into the limelight? Alongside Starck is Jade Jagger, whose boho-chic style combines organic shapes and nature-inspired motifs. At the opposite end of the spectrum is Marcel Wanders, who’s known for his radically decorative interiors; fluid shapes and the abundant use of flora and fauna are part of his signature style. The new Yoo Home collection consists of four themes: the Classic range comprises traditional pieces with a contemporary edge; Nature features muted tones made from natural materials; clean, unfussy lines and simple silhouettes form the Minimal range; and Culture is a quirky, fun collection that rethinks the design of conventional household objects.

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COOKING MASTERCLASSES

Throughout August, leading kitchenware brands including Kenwood, Miele, Le Creuset and Kai will be showing how to create delicious dishes perfect for alfresco dining using the product of the month: burrata

Kenwood Friday 1st & Saturday 16th August, 11am–4pm Working with the Cooking Chef and the newly arrived FPM810 Food Processor, the Kenwood team will show how to make a burrata and sun-dried tomato bread topped by a Mediterranean vegetable medley.

Kai Saturday 2nd August, 12pm–5pm With more than 100 years’ experience, knife brand Kai delivers function and precision. Chef and author Yuki Gomi will create pastry and roasted dishes, showing how to get the most out of your knives.

Miele Friday 8th August, 12pm–5pm At the forefront of kitchen design and appliance innovation for over a century, German brand Miele has perfected cooking with convenience; the team will be making pizzas and desserts in its combination oven.

KitchenAid Saturday 9th & Sunday 10th August, 11.30am–4pm The name behind the kitchen appliance of the moment, KitchenAid will put its coveted mixer through its paces to create burrata tartlets.

SMART Saturday 23rd August, 12pm–4pm SMART’s retro-styled Popcorn Maker delivers health-conscious snacks, with its hot-air popping system eliminating the need for oil. In these masterclasses, the corn will be served with a sprinkling of cheese.

Le Creuset Friday 29th August, 11am–4pm Sear, grill and roast with Le Creuset. The brand, renowned for its cast-iron cookware, will be creating mouthwatering sweet and savoury dishes, and using the Square Grillit to sear peaches for a burrata salad.

Sage Saturday 30th & Sunday 31st August, 11.30am–5pm The Heston Blumenthal appliance range will be put to the test by the Sage experts, who’ll be demonstrating how to bake tomato-and-olive bread. The team will also make fresh pesto using the Kinetix. For more information, please call 020 7730 1234 and ask to speak to The Kitchen or The Gourmet Cookshop

NEWS

MOVING pictures The BeoVision Avant 55 is a classic example of what makes Danish brand Bang & Olufsen so JVVS ;OL ;= Ä[Z ^P[OPU HU` OVTL YV[H[PUN MVY^HYK VU H Z[HUK ^OLU HJ[P]H[LK HUK LSLNHU[S` YL[YLH[PUN ^OLU Z^P[JOLK Vă (Z `V\»K L_WLJ[ LPNO[ ÄULS` [\ULK PUI\PS[ ZWLHRLYZ KLSP]LY L_JLSSLU[ audio; the 4K screen adjusts its brightness according to the light in the room; and with [OL \ZL VM )LV9LTV[L 6UL [OL ;= JHU ZH]L WLYZVUHSPZLK ZL[[PUNZ L]LU YLTLTILYPUN [OL WVZP[PVU VM `V\Y MH]V\YP[L ZLH[ ZV P[ JHU HKQ\Z[ [OL ZJYLLU [V MHJL `V\ £7,120. Available from Bang & Olufsen, Third Floor

TOUCH & GO Coffee connoisseurs can now have baristagrade drinks at home with Jura’s Impressa J80 One Touch TFT. The compact, mattblack machine features an easy-to-navigate screen, a selection wheel for choosing the type of coffee, and a height-adjustable milk spout. And, with its inbuilt fine-foam technology, the frother gives milk a silky and feather-light consistency. £1,750; exclusive to Harrods for 2014. Available from Kitchen Appliances, Second Floor

THE WORLD OF WANDERS So flamboyant is Marcel Wanders’ style that the New York Times has called him the Lady Gaga of the design world. The Dutch designer, best known for his highly decorative aesthetic, typically uses elaborate floral motifs and fluid shapes. His Jardin d’Eden collection for Christofle is no different; the range includes tableware and decorative objects engraved with baroque floral patterns. The latest addition to the range is a steel chair, the surface of which has been decorated with a floral and lattice engraving; the accompanying cushion comes in a choice of colours. £2,280. Available from Luxury Home, Second Floor

Natural selection

What better place to store treasured jewels than in an artfully crafted Linley box? The limited-edition Safari jewellery box is made from stained walnut and finished in high gloss, while the sycamore lid features a red-ripple marquetry that resembles alligator skin. The same hue is mirrored in the compartmentalised, faux-suede interior, and beneath the lock is a small silver plaque for engraving. £5,000; exclusive to Harrods. Available from Luxury Home, Second Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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LIVING THE HIGH LIFE

Imagine sun-drenched days spent sipping cocktails as you laze around a medieval palace with spectacular panoramic views of the Amalfi Coast. That’s the reality at Palazzo Avino, a fivestar hotel perched high in the hills near Ravello in southern Italy, a town renowned for its love of classical music. Originally built in the 12th century as a palace for Italian nobles, the familyrun hotel (opened in 1997) features a twoMichelin-starred restaurant and offers modern comforts and original Baroque details. With the added luxury of a lobster-and-Martini bar, a spa and a private beach club, you’ll be torn as to where to while away the day. For details, please visit palazzoavino.com

…four literary gems Jewelry by Chanel by Patrick Mauriès She was famed for her little black dresses and boxy tweed jackets, but Coco Chanel’s influence extended beyond the building blocks of a chic Parisian wardrobe into the realm of jewellery. Based on archival research and interviews, Mauriès looks at how Mlle Chanel broke from tradition to apply her signature to her jewellery collections. £75 The Art of Bulgari by Amanda Triossi & Martin Chapman With trinkets and gemstones in abundance, The Art of Bulgari celebrates the period in which the house became a key player in Italian fashion, rejecting Parisian influences. With original sketches, images of precious stones and celebrity profiles, the book captures the essence of the brand. £22.50

Perfect retreat

Anyone who has stayed at Raymond Blanc’s two-Michelin-starred Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons will tell you there’s no place quite like it. Situated in the heart of Oxfordshire, the hotel and grounds are a peaceful oasis away from the city, complete with orchards, a Japanese garden and land growing endless produce that you’ll probably get to sample during a five- or seven-course tasting meal. While foodies delight in one expertly made dish after another, there are also plenty of other activities, including spa treatments and therapies, yoga classes, and cookery workshops for both adults and children. For more information, please visit manoir.com

Make a WISH

JEWELLERY BOOKS

Planning a wedding or anniversary celebration? The specialists at The Gift Bureau can help create the ideal gift list. Following an initial consultation – with Champagne, of course – our expert personal gift consultants will create a wish list to satisfy your requests, from homewares and vintage wines to honeymoon options. Once registered, The Gift Bureau is also available online, offering your guests the chance to browse and purchase items from the comfort of their own homes. Appointments can be made at giftbureau.harrods.com or by calling 020 7225 6500. The Gift Bureau, Second Floor

The Jewels of the Romanovs by Stefano Papi Papi travels back in time to unveil the stories behind the imperial jewels, from the decadent days of tsardom to their abrupt end in 1917. The Jewels of the Romanovs offers a rare insight into the mysteries of the Russian jewels and the people who wore them. £45 20th Century Jewelry & the Icons of Style by Stefano Papi & Alexandra Rhodes Profiling 11 glamorous women from high society, 20th Century Jewelry & the Icons of Style leaves readers dreaming of a bygone era. Including personal collections from Maria Callas and the Duchess of Windsor, and imagery by Cecil Beaton, the book delves into why diamonds became known as a girl’s best friend. £35 Available from The Harrods Bookshop, Second Floor

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HAR R O DSEST AT ES.CO M

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MY STYLE Equipment shirt £305

Paul Andrew shoes £475

Louis Vuitton dress £2,300

My style

CAROLINE ISSA

The fashion entrepreneur, sometime model and frequent ﬂier reveals her penchant for trouser suits and the secret behind the ultimate travel wardrobe

What’s your earliest fashion memory? I had a very glamorous aunt, Lily, who came to visit us in Montreal from Beirut. She was an artist and wore these incredibly feminine dresses. I think that was when my obsession with dolls, dressing up, basically anything girly started. She left an amazing image imprinted on my brain. How did you break into the industry? By destiny. I was a management consultant travelling the world in conjunction with big corporate-strategy projects. I was working in the UK for Boots, and through mutual friends, I met one of the founders of Tank magazine who was looking for someone to help grow and stabilise their business. I became inspired, quit my stable, well-paid job on a whim, and became a partner. That was 12 years ago. You travel a lot for work – how do you plan your wardrobe accordingly? I streamline my packing to a few day-to-night essentials. Christopher I love a suit – Dior has some incredible tailoring at the Kane moment. Then a few pairs of trousers from Joseph, several sweater Equipment blouses and always a little bit of Prada. £1,399 Who are your style heroes? A lot of women inspire me. I love Jenna Lyons’ fashion CLOCKWISE FROM TOP sense, [fashion blogger] Garance Doré and her take on LEFT At Paris Fashion masculine/feminine, and Inès de la Fressange, who looks Week 2014; wrapped incredibly chic even in jeans, flats and a simple jacket. up for the New York Is there a designer you turn to again and again? equivalent; front row Prada: I invest in something Prada every season. Joseph, at NYC’s Giulietta show in February this because I love the clean, minimal aesthetic. Paul Smith year; suited for Milan does beautiful suits and Tom Ford for a sexy little jacket. Fashion Week 2014 What’s your favourite trend for autumn/winter?

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The ’70s vibe Nicolas Ghesquière spearheaded at Louis Vuitton – I’m interested in how people will interpret it. The optical, graphic prints are a great way to add colour. What’s on your wish list? Dior’s suits with lacing, plus key pieces from Proenza Schouler and Christopher Kane – their autumn/winter collections were both so eclectic. In terms of accessories, I love Paul Andrew’s shoes and Dior’s jewellery. Does your style change from season to season? I think it’s pretty constant, although I’m probably getting more adventurous with trends as I get older, whether it’s body-con dresses or mega-prints. What’s your favourite ever purchase/biggest mistake? I have a huge, pale pink, Mongolian fur chubby I bought in Montreal 10 years ago. It was an outrageous piece from a no-name brand so it was 80 per cent off. I love that I got it at a bargain price, in my hometown, and it’s completely timeless. The chubby and all my Alaïa shoes are my best investments. In terms of fashion mistakes – I’ve made a few, but I give them away really quickly. You often work red lips – do you have any particular style commandments? A big pair of chandelier earrings is my failsafe for an evening out. And an amazing tuxedo – nothing looks better on a woman. Available from Designer Studio, International Designer and The Shoe Salon, First Floor; and harrods.com . For more information, download the Harrods Magazine app

Giulietta fashion show Getty; Paris, New York and Milan Jason Lloyd-Evans

BY MARIA MILANO