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EDITOR’S LETTER What did we learn from the Autumn/Winter 2014 shows? That new-season fashion is about doing it all wrong, to the point that it looks absolutely right. The resurgence of trainers is the standout example. Hybrid high-tops appeared at Louis Vuitton courtesy of Kim Jones, while Lucas Ossendrijver created punk-style climbing shoes in white calfskin at Lanvin. The outerwear you might have predicted to match this new mood for athleticism was variously absent. Laid-back hoodies or parka-style jackets made occasional appearances, but largely the all-wrong-and-therefore-right way to wear trainers is with traditional suiting, thereby providing the perfect counterbalance to all that buttoned-up formality. Even Tom Ford relaxed his anti-trainer stance and made a version, albeit in a totally Tom Ford style; handmade by Italian craftsmen and polished for three days to a high shine. And then there are prints. You know how you used to add a little pattern here and there with a jaunty tie or flowery shirt, just to show your fun side? Well now the way to wear print is with, er, print. A bit like double denim (so, so wrong). It’s all about layering mismatched patterns to the point that your eyes swivel. Fashion’s fast-and-loose attitude stops at suiting, however. As the store celebrates Made to Measure from 3rd to 5th October, the latest edition of Harrods Man sees some stars of traditional tailoring, from Ermenegildo Zegna to Gieves & Hawkes, putting bespoke back on the fashion landscape. For those who prefer a few more revs in their engine, we drive the new Range Rover Sport, meet the sickeningly handsome star of Douglas Booth, and chat to adventurer Bear Grylls. “Behold the turtle,” he told us. “He only makes progress when he sticks his neck out.” Words to the wise…
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Victori
EDITOR
COVER IMAGE BY JASON HETHERINGTON Stylist BECKY BRANCH; Grooming LEE MACHIN at Car s hair car C; DOUGLAS BOOTH Mr Start jack t £799 and shirt £139 w
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CONTENTS
21
52
AGENDA Everything you need to know for the new fashion season
23_ZEITGEIST People and places in the air right now
42_FIRST-CLASS CARRIER The ultimate travelling companion arrives in the form of Prada’s new Saffiano tote 44_NEWS
28_WHEREFORE ART THOU? Winning respect from the film industry has not been easy for omeo & Juliet star Douglas Booth
Fantasy bags, spanners in the works, a countryside alliance, and how to wear tartan
Brands to watch, statement pieces and must-have basics
46_CASE STUDY
PREVIEW The sports shoe is having a high-fashion moment
Our city-break weekender gives you three looks in one (gorgeous) bag
38_EVERYONE’S TALKING ABOUT… ZEGNA In his role as head designer at Ermenegildo Zegna, Stefano Pilati is redefining the sartorial landscape
41_NEWS Classic tailoring, repurposing bags, pioneering speakers, and how to wear shearling
57_WELL TIMED Its designs are the blueprint for the modern watch; now Cartier celebrates with a pop-up show
NEWS A hot seat, seaworthy timepieces, sporting jackets, plus a very British designer
Monochrome patterns, from the artisanal to the abstract, are applied with abandon on this season’s separates
77_ABOUT FACE From would-be submariners to sports aficionados, watch connoisseurs are spoilt for choice with designs in time for every mood
82_CALL OF
OF THE UNEXPECTED This season’s most sought-after accessories are playfully patterned, luxuriously textured and hypnotically cool
THE WILD The natural antidote to smart suiting is laid-back weekend wear, with parkas and hoodies layered over jeans and chinos
72_CUT FROM A DIFFERENT CLOTH Jason Basmajian is the brilliant American designer bringing Savile Row stalwart Gieves & Hawkes into the 21st century
106_NEWS Sensual scent, power-packed cream, Stateside shaves and spa remedies
109_FRENCH TOAST Hailing from Bordeaux’s exclusive Rothschild stable, Mouton Cadet is truly a wine to celebrate
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67_DETAILS
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50_IN PRINT
THE GROOMER Skincare gadgets are go for the modern gentleman who loves new technology
62_TREND REPORT This season, a mash-up of references creates a new, singularly modern style ethos
33_STYLE INSIDER
35_SNEAKER
THE CONVERSATION As the third generation of the Fendi family to be immersed in the business, Silvia Venturini Fendi knows better than anyone what sets the Italian brand apart
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BOARD DECISION Timing and wine pairings are everything when it comes to making the most of your chosen cheeses
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MEASURE FOR MEASURE Made-to-measure has been reimagined for the 21st century. Suits and coats come in a choice of fabrics, colours and cuts for the modern gent
99_BEARD… SHEARED A particular brand of beard is making its mark; plus short back and sides with serious versatility
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112_TOP OF THE RANGE The latest incarnation of the Range Rover Sport is the epitome of hi-tech style and comfort 114_THE FINAL WORD Bear Grylls explains why he’ll never grow up enough to stop doing handstands
21 AUTUMN & WINTER 2014
AGENDA Must-see, must-have, must-not-miss: everything you need to know for the new fashion season
The SPEED FREAK
The ONLY JACKET Focusing on individuality and the modern male, Lucas Ossendrijver’s new collection for Lanvin is defined by edgy trims, Matisse-like satin appliqués and a mash-up of striking and subdued shades of colour. Ossendrijver’s tailoring is as accomplished as ever, but the standout piece is a sporty bomber adorned with a surreal floating-hand motif. Jacket £1,450
A new addition to Ferrari’s Essence Collection, Vetiver Essence is a tribute to Grigio Silverstone. Embodying true masculinity and elegance, the scent is spicy, warm and woody. 100ml, £79
The MAN BAG The COOL MOTIF With an emphasis on nature and abstract art, in his latest collection, Neil Barrett continues to define the modern man. Earthy tones and conspicuous motifs are scattered across streamlined silhouettes. Sweater £270
Taking a minimalist approach, Fendi’s Selleria bags embrace a recurring and constantly changing style every season. The Selleria Flat Briefcase is made from calf leather and comes in light grey; a style and colour suitable for all occasions. £1,599
The PERFECT FIT As part of the Made to Measure event in-store, various customised services will be on offer from 3rd to 5th October. Personal consultants across a host of brands, from Canali to Zegna, will offer advice on personalising accessories and on the perfectly fitted suit. Email madetomeasure@harrods.com
The NEW OLD The new Mécaniques Ajourées from Vacheron Constantin fuses openworked watchmaking and the fine detailing of 19th-century European architecture via the tireless hand-engraving of the brand’s craftsmen. £58,950
The CLASSIC COAT Deviating from the rigid structures seen in previous collections, Wooyoungmi has adopted a circular and elegant path for AW14. The monotone palette and classic prints create an element of serenity. Contemporary art museums, in particular their architecture, were the designer’s source of inspiration, leading Wooyoungmi to manipulate form through materials and print. Coat from a selection
The WISH LIST Make Christmas magical by helping your partner find your dream gift. Email your ultimate wish list to santa@harrods.com; include your partner’s email address, and Santa himself will send the list to him or her, explaining that he’s lending a helping hand. Then relax and let Harrods do the rest. Call 020 7893 8000 for details
The TASTE OF RUSSIA Inspired by Russian tradition, Imperial Gold vodka contains wheat and rye, and water from Lake Lagoda; it’s distilled 12 times through quartz sand and silverinfused birch charcoal. £39.95
HARRODS MAN / VOLUME TWO
The MODERN MIX Having explored Christian Dior’s archive, Kris Van Assche recontextualises design details associated with either gender. The juxtaposition of formal and casual (denim and tailoring), and floral motifs defines the AW14 collection. Parka £3,700
Available from Men’s Accessories, Men’s International Gallery and The Spirits Room, Lower Ground Floor; The Fine Watch Room and The Perfumery Hall, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
24 ZEITGEIST
Event: LONDON COCKTAIL WEEK They say “all things in moderation”, but you might need to ignore that adage for the duration of London Cocktail Week given the myriad stylish and sophisticated delights being lined up. For seven days and nights, the capital’s most fashionable bars and hotels are staging special events and offering innovative mixological magic for cocktail lovers. There’s a fun-packed programme with free tastings. Just be sure to keep the rest of October low-key while you gently recover. From 6th to 12th October; visit londoncocktailweek.com
Film: THE DROP
Film: THE IMITATION GAME He’s a peerless intellect battling evil; a mystery to the outside world from whom he hides his own secrets and sadness. Sounds like a perfect fit for Benedict Cumberbatch, who, in this compelling historical drama, swaps Sherlock Holmes for Alan Turing, the man who arguably did more than any other person to defeat Adolf Hitler. Cumberbatch takes on the mantle of the genius mathematician who was pivotal to breaking codes used by the Nazis in World War II, co-starring with Keira Knightley and Charles Dance in an absorbing tale of wartime secrets and lies. Opens on 14th November in the UK
Much mourned after his sudden death last year, James Gandolfini has left us one last, worthy monument to his talent. In this hard-boiled thriller, the Sopranos star plays a bar owner who stashes away mob money, no questions asked. Then he’s robbed and the gangsters want their money back – or he’ll have to pay with his life. With a script by the novelist Dennis Lehane ( , Shutter Island) and a cast featuring Tom Hardy and Noomi Rapace, this atmospheric drama – steeped in the tradition of Martin Scorsese’s Mean Streets – is a fitting final platform for one of the most brilliant screen performers of our era. Opens on 14th November in the UK
The sport of kings comes into its regal own at Ascot. The Berkshire racecourse attracts not only lovers of the sport, but also the cream of high society, and for keen followers of fashion there’s often as much to observe in the stands as on the track. That said, on QIPCO British Champions Day, you’d do well to keep your eyes on the action; this is the climax of the European flat-racing season, with millions of pounds at stake. In between the races, however, there’s ample opportunity to relax – enjoy a drink trackside or fine dining in a private box, where you can enjoy spectacular views of the racing from your balcony. Saturday 18th October; visit ascot.co.uk HARRODS MAN / VOLUME TWO
Benedict Cumberbatch Alamy
Event: BRITISH CHAMPIONS DAY AT ASCOT
26 ZEITGEIST
Experience: FISHING IN BUCOLIC BEAUTY When the hustle and bustle of city life gets too much, a few peaceful hours of fishing can recharge the soul like nothing else. The Wylands International Angling Centre offers an idyllic location in which to hone your skills; the beginners’ sessions mean that even complete novices can cast a line. Spread over 154 lush acres of Sussex woodland, the nine lakes are crammed with tench, bream and carp; prepare to be hooked. Visit wylands.co.uk
Book: JIMMY PAGE by Jimmy Page
Book: ONE LUCKY BASTARD: Tales from Tinseltown oger Moore
With his 2012 book Bond on Bond, Roger Moore discovered a new lease of life as a successful and pleasingly witty author. In his latest yarn, he delves into a rich vein of Hollywood anecdotes, all brimming over with his trademark charm and sense of mischief. One Lucky Bastard harks back to a golden age of hair-raising high jinks and scandals, many involving Moore’s starry circle of friends – among them Tony Curtis, Sean Connery, Michael Caine and Frank Sinatra. In the tradition of David Niven’s mega-bestseller Bring on the Empty Horses, it’s a delightful read. £15. Available from The Harrods Bookshop, Second Floor
Experience: KAYAKING IN THE CAPITAL When it comes to tours of London, there’s always the easy option of an open-top bus. On the other hand, how about taking in the sights and getting some exercise at the same time? A couple of hours paddling away in a kayak will give you a thorough upper-body workout, but the choice of spectacular routes makes any aching muscles well worth it. London Kayak Tours offers trips past the royal palace at Hampton Court and the renowned ZSL London Zoo in Regent’s Park – or you can venture west of the capital to take in Windsor Castle from the water. Visit londonkayaktours.co.uk HARRODS MAN / VOLUME TWO
Kayaking, oger Moore, Jimmy Page Getty Images
For decades they’ve let their music speak for itself. Now, one of the rock gods who made up Led Zeppelin has finally revealed what life was like during the band’s stormy, decade-long series of stadium tours, with a photographic autobiography of his life and career. Jimmy Page was the man whose vision created and dominated the band – after his virtuoso guitar musicianship had already made him the go-to man of London’s 1960s recordingsessions scene. He tells his, and Led Zeppelin’s, spectacular and often scandalous story. Turn up the volume as you leaf through for full effect. £40. Available from The Harrods Bookshop, Second Floor
28 INTERVIEW
WHEREFORE ART THOU? With his fashionable connections and good looks one assumes stardom has come easily to omeo & Juliet star Douglas Booth. But winning respect from the film industry has not been so simple BY HARVEY MARCUS PHOTOGRAPHER JASON HETHERINGTON STYLIST BECKY BRANCH
D
ouglas Booth takes a corner seat in a café booth, drapes one arm over the backrest and self-consciously flicks a floppy Bieber-esque fringe out of his sea-green eyes. Casually decked out in a grey T-shirt and pair of beaten-up jeans, the 22-year-old British actor is almost indecently good looking; a Ken minus a Barbie, if you like. A man could take quite an aversion to such a specimen were he not so disarmingly nice, tempering his acquired confidence with an appealing degree of youthful, almost awkward, diffidence. So, I ask the star of omeo & Juliet and Noah, first things first: is being so darned handsome something of a burden? “I hate that question,” he replies with a sigh. “Is it a burden? I hate it purely because if I was a reader, I’d be like…” He stumbles over his words a little as he tries to explain himself. A producer once told him his looks might prevent Hollywood taking him seriously as an actor. “I’m fortunate to be in the position I’m in. It’s a huge combination of luck, hard work and loads of other stuff. But there’s no escaping the fact that when I don’t get a role, one of the biggest reasons that comes back is, ‘He’s too leading man,’ or however they like to phrase it. But I feel – and I’m not comparing myself to these people at all – when they were younger, Brad Pitt, Leonardo DiCaprio and Johnny Depp all had to overcome that. You need to work yourself out of that.” Five years have passed since the 17-year-old Booth was among a group of up-and-coming actors and musicians hand-picked by Christopher Bailey to flank an already-famous Emma Watson in a game-changing Burberry campaign. He’s stayed close to Watson – who’s his co-star in Noah – as well as to the Burberry supremo, but it remains a pet peeve that it has taken a while to shirk off the model-turned-actor tag. X Paul & Joe coat £595; Mr Start shirt £139; Louis Vuitton tr Tateossian cuff links £170
HARRODS MAN / VOLUME TWO
30 INTERVIEW
“That was a hiccup,” he says earnestly. “It was just at the time when Burberry skyrocketed. But I’d been at Guildhall [School of Music and Drama] since I was 13, and made From Time to Time directed by Julian Fellowes and The Pillars of the Earth [a Channel 4 mini-series with Donald Sutherland]. So, of course it’s irritating – the amount of effort I’d put in on film sets compared to three days in total over a year to do two campaigns and a fragrance. It used to frustrate me but I think I’ve worked my way out of that one.” It does seem unfair to paint Booth as anything other than grateful with his lot on both a personal and professional level. Since dating his Great Expectations co-star Vanessa Kirby, he’s been linked with everyone from Taylor Swift to Watson but maintains he’s happily single right now. “Yes,” he says, with almost a nod and a wink. “I’m single. That’s all I’m going to say.” And career-wise, he has well and truly answered any doubters who might have marked him down as just another pretty face. Last year’s omeo & Juliet alongside Hailee Steinfeld was followed up with a leading role in director Darren “Black Swan” Aronofsky’s biblical epic, Noah; he’s just completed filming opposite Channing Tatum and Mila Kunis in the Wachowskis’ (of Matrix fame) sci-fi spectacular Jupiter Ascending; and this month sees him join a stellar cast of young British talent in . Featuring the likes of Sam Claflin, Freddie Fox, Max Irons and Jessica Brown Findlay, the thriller has already created quite a pre-release stir, given it’s based on a fictionalised version of Oxford University’s notorious Bullingdon Club, whose number included those notable carousers Prime Minister David Cameron and London Mayor Boris Johnson. “It’s obviously influenced by real clubs but there’s definitely no ‘Which one’s David? Which one’s Boris?’” he says. Part of his research involved speaking with recent members of existing clubs. “I remember when I first read the script, I was like, ‘C’mon. No.’ Then you hear their stories and you go, ‘Oh, wow!’ Not nearly as dark as our script, but these guys are fascinating beasts. They feel protected by hundreds of years of history and when they go through those doors, it’s like walking through the wardrobe in Narnia. But they’re charming. These people could kill you with charm.” A side effect of the filming experience saw Booth and his fellow acting chums immerse themselves in the alluringly debauched and poisonous decadence of the world they were portraying. Maybe a little too much for the actresses in the cast. “On set, it became a toxic environment,” he admits. “You walked away at the end of the day wanting to wash your hands. Gross. It was horrible for Jess [Brown Findlay] and Holliday [Grainger]. I remember Jess saying to one of my friends, ‘I don’t know how you can be around him’. We’re all friends now. We went
• “I remember I’d go to the Baftas and didn’t know anyone. Now, I walk past a magazine rack and I know pretty much 80 per cent of everyone on the cover or inside. The world feels a lot smaller than it did before. It’s not as scary” •
HARRODS MAN / VOLUME TWO
to Glastonbury. But it’s funny to think back to the people we became while filming.” Born in Greenwich, London – his father Simon is a shipping finance consultant, his half-Spanish half-Dutch mother, Vivien, a painter – some might accuse Booth of having been blessed with an existence as charmed as his Riot Club character. Yet throughout his life he has suffered with severe dyslexia – “People can read a script in an hour and a half. It takes me a day” – a learning difficulty that drew him to acting from the start. Having initially dreamed of playing the trumpet for a living – “I loved Louis Armstrong” – aged 11 he was in a school play and “found it a great way of expressing myself ”. Each Saturday he’d attend the Guildhall School of Music and Drama and then became a member of the National Youth Theatre. By the age of 15, after begging his mother to write to the Curtis Brown acting agency, he had acquired an agent. Film roles soon followed, and aged just 17, and still at school, he landed the role of Boy George in the BBC2 biopic of the singer’s early life, Worried About the Boy. Boy George acted as consultant on the film, and the two stay in close touch: “I call him a friend now. I feel
31 INTERVIEW
like we’re connected in a weird way. I feel like I’ve shared part of his soul. Whenever anyone slags him off, it makes me really angry. The bite that I had when I played him is still there.” Not long after Worried About the Boy, he was flying to Hollywood to film the not-very-well-received coming-of-age drama LOL. He’d just completed the BBC’s Christopher and His Kind, playing the lover of the novelist Christopher Isherwood opposite Matt Smith, and while he wasn’t entirely convinced by the script for LOL, he was attracted by the prospect of teaming up with Demi Moore and Miley Cyrus. “I really didn’t want to do it, but it was an amazing experience to make.” And working with Cyrus? “We went to Paris and were literally chased by 50 paparazzi. Madness. It blew my world open in a very strange way.” Was she a different Cyrus to today’s x-rated version? “She’s the same person,” he insists, while laughing. “She’s smart. We’re still friends and message each other all the time, but I haven’t seen her in a while. I like her. She has an amazing heart. She’s got balls and she doesn’t care. She’s one of the top grossing artists in the world, so good on her.”
THIS PAGE Balmain sw at r £699; OPPOSITE PAGE 3.1 Phillip Lim coat
£950; Corneliani sw at r £299
Grooming LEE MACHIN at Car s hair car C s Assistant Photogr ALEX MEININGER ator ANDY MAYFIELD Digital O Available from Men’s Contemporary Designer and Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor; and harrods.com
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Of course, being pursued down the street is something he himself has had to adjust to in the last 12 months, though Booth is genuinely nonplussed by the fascination – “I’m such a goofball really” – and there’s a part of him still coming to terms with how far and how fast he’s come. It’s not that long ago, he says, that the world seemed too big for him. “I remember I’d go to the Baftas and didn’t know anyone. Now, I walk past a magazine rack and I know pretty much 80 per cent of everyone on the cover or inside. The world feels a lot smaller than it did before. It’s not as scary.” Not that he’s about to take this new-found fame for granted. “Nothing happened overnight,” he’s keen to stress. “I’ve been working since I was 16 and slowly taking it step by step. I haven’t begun, really. I still feel like I’m at the half-baby-step stage at the beginning of my career.” HMN The Riot Club is released in the UK on 19th September Harvey Marcus has written for Elle and Marie Claire, and now runs his own film company, Pigtail Productions
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STYLE INSIDER Brands to watch, statement pieces and must-have basics BY DYLAN JONES
Dylan Jones OBE is Editorin-Chief of men’s fashion and lifestyle magazine GQ. He is also the Chairman of London Collections: Men, a British Fashion Council initiative.
The TOP STATEMENT PIECES for AW14
The SHOES I’ve got dozens of pairs of shoes, including many Berlutis, although I have to admit, it’s impossible to have too many. You can’t go wrong with a pair of Berluti Alessandro Milano Oxfords, which I wear with jeans or trousers. But never with shorts.
The JEANS Jeans should fit like well-cut trousers: not too baggy, or too tight. J Brand does styles that are classic, using washes that are timeless. The fit works for me and the denim ages well. They just seem to get better and better.
The WATCH I tend to wear watches by Rolex and TAG Heuer, and I quite fancy adding another TAG to my collection – maybe the classic blue Steve McQueen Monaco. There is simply no better watch to wear at the weekend.
The POLO SHIRT Just one word: Sunspel. This brand produces the Riviera polo shirt in a variety of colours, but blue is the chicest. Honestly, you can wear one with just about anything, from a suit to a pair of white baggy shorts.
The SUIT JACKET 1. Richard James coat £899
A Woolmark Richard James suit in cool wool, obviously. So many Savile Row brands are on fire at the moment, although I’ll always have a special place in my wardrobe for Richard James. Suits, that is.
The LUGGAGE I like bags that look as though they could be used by both men and women. I also like bags that you can just throw things into. I used to make such a fuss about packing, but I travel so much now that I try to take as little as possible, just taking carry-on. Which is why I like the Mulberry Piccadilly travel bag.
The KNIT There is no other garment to wear right now; the Polo Ralph Lauren V-neck flap pocket cardigan goes casual or smart depending what you wear it with. My favourite colour is the grey mélange, which I wear with a T-shirt and shorts, or with jeans and a suit jacket.
ANYTHING BY ZEGNA Ermenegildo Zegna has always been the height of Italian elegance. The brand has an international reputation for producing the best quality suits. This latest collection by Stefano Pilati takes sartorial dressing to an entirely new level.
EVERYTHING BY ORLEBAR BROWN 2. Dolce & Gabbana suit £7,295 Available from Men’s Casuals, Lower Ground Floor; and Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor
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I love Orlebar Brown. It’s good quality and good fun and it has just about everything you can think of that you’d like to be wearing on your holidays.
35 FASHION
SNEAKER PREVIEW
The humble sports shoe is having a high-fashion moment, as designers conjure trainers, high-tops and tennis shoes that combine directional styling with couture-level attention to detail BY LINDSAY MACPHERSON
Lanvin jack t fr
tr
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38 FASHION
EVERYONE’S TALKING ABOUT… ZEGNA In his role as head designer at Ermenegildo Zegna, Stefano Pilati is redefining the sartorial landscape BY LINDSAY MACPHERSON
Ermenegildo Zegna coat and glov
w
£1,050, tr
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I
n 2012, when Stefano Pilati stepped down from Saint Laurent – the house he’d successfully helmed for over a decade – the rumour mill went into overdrive. Where would Pilati take his prodigious talents next, critics wondered? Would he, as some speculated, take a sabbatical from fashion? Two years later and Pilati is still dominating discussions, but today it’s the designer’s Phoenix-like return to form that is the topic of conversation. When Pilati was appointed head designer of Italian powerhouse Ermenegildo Zegna – the same year that he left Saint Laurent – the pairing did not, initially, seem like an obvious fit. Rather than being a storied fashion house, Zegna had a heritage based on fabric, having produced the world’s most extraordinary textiles for over a century and exquisitely cut, if a little safe, tailored suiting since the 1960s. For Pilati, however, a designer whose work for Saint Laurent was, in turns, criticised for being either too boundary-pushing or too beholden to the label’s past, an undefined fashion identity must have been a large part of the appeal. Zegna had an aesthetic he could reshape on his own terms – and another draw was surely the degree of creative control he could exercise in a vertically integrated, family-owned firm. While Pilati has maintained many of Zegna’s established codes, the Milanese designer has been unfettered in his creation of the fashion collections, catwalk shows and advertising campaigns, as well as fabric development. The latter is something the designer – who once worked in textile innovation at Prada – has taken full advantage of, though, so far, he has been quietly revolutionary rather than radical. Zegna’s previously dormant 60-year-old sister label, Agnona, also falls under Pilati’s remit (he is the brand’s Creative Director) and his first collection offered an intriguing statement of intent. Instead of observing the conventional dictates of the fashion
THIS PAGE, LEFT Ermenegildo Zegna blouson £5,150, shirt £730, tr CENTRE, FROM TOP Ermenegildo Zegna
both pairs £905, coutur RIGHT Ermenegildo Zegna jack t £1,130, tr £2,090, sw £830, glov Available from Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s Tailoring, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
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calendar, his discreetly luxurious womenswear designs were billed as being seasonless; designed without specific weather conditions in mind and available to purchase by customers immediately after they were shown to the press. In his much-anticipated collections for Zegna, Pilati’s influence can be seen in the move away from classic, conservative suiting to lighter constructions, with a masterful use of colour and a focus on cutting-edge fabrics. His debut SS14 show for Zegna Couture expanded the house’s tailoring oeuvre, introducing new cuts and concepts. Notable was his interpretation of the broken suit – jackets and trousers cut in the same style, but with subtle differences in colour, texture or pattern, designed to be worn with the ease of separates. Pilati also promoted something he called “after six” dressing: impeccably cut casualwear designed to function as a contemporary alternative to formal attire. For AW14 Pilati has experimented with convention-bending, and exclusive, fabric blends: mixing fine wool with Cordura – a high-performance fabric used in military apparel – for example, and weaving precious silk with Kevlar. His micro-checked broken tailoring is deconstructed or has a more fluid cut, while sportswear elements – blouson jackets, bombers and beanies – plus shoes and accessories are elevated by being highly considered and expertly crafted; over 90 per cent is made by hand. In the past, Zegna’s biggest asset has been attention to detail (artisanal construction, finelymilled fabrics) while Pilati’s strength has always been his ability to think about the bigger picture; how a collection functions as a manifesto for the modern man. Together they make a formidable pairing, and one that promises to keep people talking for many seasons to come. HMN
41 FASHION
NEWS Classic tailoring, repurposing bags, pioneering speakers, and how to wear shearling
KLIPSCH: Sound heritage
PAL ZILERI: Classic compositions Known for its contemporary cuts, Quinto Vicentinobased brand Pal Zileri takes cues from classic Italian tailoring when it comes to construction. In keeping with the label’s heritage, the jackets in the AW14 collection are internally structured with stitched canvas – a process used only by the most highly skilled tailors. The outer shells are equally considered, composed of fine Italian cashmere, silk and wool. Formalwear isn’t the brand’s only forte though; Pal Zileri is also famed for its sports jackets, which devote the same attention to cut and finish, but have a lighter construction that’s more suited to the Italian climate. Suit £1,125. Available from Men’s Casuals, Lower Ground Floor
Audio innovation usually moves at breakneck speed, but the Klipschorn is the exception. The pioneering design was created and patented (by American company Klipsch) back in 1946, and continues to set standards. The only speaker design in the world that has been in continuous production for six decades, it creates a low-distortion sound that can emulate an orchestral setting. Now incorporating the famed Klipschorn technology is the striking Palladium P-39F; a floor-standing speaker with a zebra-grain veneer, it features the brand’s striking “boat tail” design, which enhances sound by breaking up standing waves at higher frequencies. From £6,999. Available from Harrods Technology, Third Floor
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA: Just what the doctor ordered In the 1980s, the doctor’s bag became a high-fashion accessory; these days, the bag’s multiple compartments hold not stethoscopes and thermometers but smartphones and business cards. Ermenegildo Zegna’s new couture reinterpretation of the classic style comes in brown, green, grey and blue calf leather, as well as a dark-brown alligator version lined with lambskin. £24,765. Available from Men’s Tailoring, Ground Floor
Dior Homme
Cripes! Biggles is back! Take one look at this debonair chap on the catwalk and it’s clear that flying jackets are taking off. And what could be more appropriate nearly 100 years since the Boy’s Own hero first took to the skies? Whether the designers at Christian Dior are familiar with the fictional WWI fighter ace is open to question; they may think “Chocks away, Algy!” is a desperate attempt to stick to the 5:2 diet rather than a pre-flight manoeuvre. Still, they’ve clearly been inspired by his trademark look. Everywhere you look on the catwalks, men are dressed in sheep’s clothing. But – and this is key – we’re not talking any old wool. We’re talking shearling, a pelt taken from a yearling lamb that has been shorn once, then tanned with the wool still on it. This is not a look for vegetarians. But for carnivorous fashion lovers, shearling offers much more. Alexander McQueen has created a full-length coat, which is a dramatic statement. Others have done biker jackets, car coats (beware the “John Motson”) and cardigans (I said, “Beware the John Motson!”). Balmain and Christian Dior have paired glossy, leather parkas with sheepskin linings – literally, taking the rough with the smooth. But forget such daring combinations. This is a classic. If in doubt, stick with an aviator’s jacket. Biggles, of course, saw off his nemesis the White Fokker. Thankfully, we live in more benign times. But at least you can say with confidence that you’re wearing a killer look. Tom Loxley is Executive Editor of the Radio Times. He has also written for GQ and The Independent
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42 MUST-HAVE
FIRST-CLASS CARRIER Weekends away demand a stylish but hardworking bag. The ultimate travelling companion arrives in the form of Prada’s new Saffiano tote PHOTOGRAPHER TED HUMBLE-SMITH
Prada Saffiano to fur rug £249 Available from Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor; and The Fabric Library, Third Floor
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46 FASHION
CASE STUDY Pared-down packing with all essentials covered – our city-break weekender gives you three looks in one (gorgeous) bag BY LEWIS FIRTH PHOTOGRAPHER BENEDICT MORGAN
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THE POINT It’s the weekend. It’s that city break you booked in a moment of recklessness. You’re flying club class. You travel light. Being a rather suave sophisticate, you’re far too laid back to ever worry about what to wear, but really, er… what to wear? What you need is a capsule weekend wardrobe. Sounds a bit girl’s blouse? Wait till you get your head around how one suit, one bomber, two shirts, a T-shirt and a pair of jeans can march you through an elegant flight, a day or two of sightseeing and a smart dinner, all without a whiff of “I’ve worn this before.”
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THE FLIGHT Looking stylish while travelling is a feat. Arriving looking like you did when you left: same. Not too formal, not too laid back; a casual bomber jacket, say, and a smart fitted shirt tucked into a pair of easy wool trousers, all tied together with a “Look, I can accessorise” belt. Easy. But the real trick here is being holistically stylish because, as we all know, being suave isn’t just about the clothes. Avoid the awkward document-shuffle at check-in with an embossed leather travel wallet and a zhooshy passport cover, and for heaven’s sake, make sure the bag has all the right compartments for your must-carry gadgets.
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47 FASHION
THE SITES Visiting historical landmarks and a few museums, trying the odd local delicacy – that’s fine. Wearing something over-the-top while doing so is not. Formality and fashion are not joined at the hip, so be a proper tourist for once and be casual but still on trend. A relaxed ensemble is most appropriate: a T-shirt is great for a casual day out. Jeans are a must. And the formal suit jacket will upgrade the entire ensemble. Pick up your Hasselblad and pop on your Persols and a Borsalino beret to ensure that all your selfies are top standard.
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Stylist Becky Branch
THE DINNER What’s the good of a city break without finding the best restaurant in town? Dinner calls for refinement. The double-breasted suit comes into its own and anchors the whole outfit. The fitted classic shirt with laid-back black-and-white knotted cuff links and silk tie will work seamlessly with the look, and classic brogues will polish it all off. As the evening progresses, you’ll want to stay warm while upholding style integrity. A printed scarf will do just that, tied lightly around the shoulders. Round the whole ensemble off with the sweet smell of success – aka Jimmy Choo’s fragrance.
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1. Brioni sw £1,750; 2. Louis Vuitton t £550; 3. Apple iPad mini trav w from £249; 4. Tom Ford Vivienne Westwood shirt £280; 6. flight apy £21; 7. Aesop Aesop ant £23; 8. Aesop I Moistur acial Hydrosol £17; 9. Aesop trav Smythson trav t £450; 11. Aspinal of London passport cov £45; 12. Dior Homme from £250; 13. Trussardi Black Extr Dior Homme fragranc Mulberry bag £1,450; 16. Mr Start tr part of a suit) £899; 17. Borsalino trilby £189; 18. Smythson washbag £365; 19. Ermenegildo Zegna Hasselblad S ac a £1,549; 21. Louis Vuitton Z £175; 22. Persol car from £215; 23. AllSaints T-shirt £30; t £111; 25. Citizens 24. Borsalino Valextra of Humanity c . Bally and trav 28. Smythson no ST Dupont no from £230; 30. Tom Ford jack t £2,220; 31. E. Tautz blaz fr 32. Eton cuff links fr Aspinal of London car £45; 34. Jimmy Choo Man 100ml, £62; 35. eShave razor £69 and brush £49; 36. E. Tautz fr . Kurt Geiger wool Mr Start shirt £119; 39. Brioni scarf £699. Available from Designer Accessories, The Gentleman’s Lounge, Men’s Accessories, Men’s Casuals, Men’s Contemporary Designer, Men’s International Gallery and Men’s Shirts & Ties, Lower Ground Floor; The Beauty Apothecary, The Fine Watch Room and Men’s Tailoring, Ground Floor; and The Great Writing Room, Second Floor
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NEWS A hot seat, seaworthy timepieces, sporting jackets, plus a very British designer reveals his influences BO CONCEPT: Sitting pretty Chairs are more often than not intended to blend in to their surroundings, but BoConcept’s 24K Boston bucks the trend, acting as both an ergonomically designed seat and an eye-catching centrepiece. Henrik Pedersen, the Danish designer behind the Boston, trained in fashion design, and his fabric choices – pinstriped fine wool developed with Italian fabric producer Groupo Massoto – are inspired by men’s tailoring. The finishing touches are equally striking: the swivel base, tilt mechanism and buttons are all made from 24kt gold. £19,995. Available from BoConcept, Third Floor
CHRISTOPHER RAEBURN The innovative British designer graduated fr oyal College of Art in 2006, quickly gaining recognition for his military fabric. He talks to Harrods Man about his inspiration. “I grew up in rural Kent. It was idyllic, but not exactly cosmopolitan. As kids we had to make our own fun, being outside, exploring or building things. I still have that make-do-and-mend attitude and love the great outdoors. This is reflected in my work. “Joining the Air Cadets had a huge impact. How could it not? The kit we wore, and its functionality – that’s something I always keep in mind. “In the beginning it was a happy accident that the brand was inherently sustainable. I was searching for old military fabric and couldn’t find anything on a roll, but there was an abundance of original military garments, often unused, so I repurposed them. Today, the brand is all about quality, provenance and local manufacturing. It still makes sense to use Britain’s amazing mills and factories for things like knitwear, although we go abroad for the really technical stuff. “An exhibition by Icelandic photographer Ragnar Axelsson was the inspiration behind the AW14 collection. He’s worked extensively in the Arctic, documenting a disappearing world. Conceptually, some of our designs are quite advanced, but each piece individually is really wearable.” Jacket £699. Available from Men’s Contemporary Designer, Lower Ground Floor
BERETTA: A perfect blend Family-run Beretta has produced sporting wear since the 16th century and this season it has found the perfect partner in Larusmiani, an Italian company known for its advanced fabric blends. For the AW14 Beretta collection, the brands draw on their joint heritage, creating jackets from thermo-regulating and rip-resistant fabrics. Other pieces have detachable hoods, pockets and cuffs, allowing for components to be combined for protection against the elements. Jacket £575, trousers £95 and shoes £275. Available from Beretta, Fifth Floor
TUDOR: New wave, retro style Rolex founder Hans Wildorf gained acclaim for his waterproof Oyster watch in the 1920s. Next he launched Tudor, a specialist in submariners’ watches. Tudor’s latest Heritage line harks back to its earliest models. The Heritage Black Bay design, for example, has a domed crystal face, a reference to its 1954 Submariner model. A 41mm steel case and a coloured, anodised aluminium crown tube modernise it. £2,120. Available from The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor HARRODS MAN / VOLUME TWO
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IN PRINT Monochrome patterns, from the artisanal to the abstract, are applied with abandon on this season’s separates
McQ shirt £210
3.1 Phillip Lim jack t £1,025
BOLDLY GO It’s not just prints that are achingly hip this autumn; it’s the way you wear the print that counts – which means doubled-up top and trousers, mismatched with trainers and a man-bag 3.1 Phillip Lim sw
Sandro shirt £160
Thom Browne shirt £525
The Kooples tr
Carven sw
£155
£275
£370
EDITOR’S ESSENTIAL KIT
Zadig & Voltaire scarf £105
Pierre Hardy pouch £169
Dolce & Gabbana tr xclusiv to Harrods
Alexander McQueen bag xclusiv to Harrods
Balenciaga T-shirt £175
Available from Men’s Contemporary Designer, Men’s International Gallery and The Men’s Shoe Salon, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor; Men’s Fashion Lab, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com
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53 FASHION INTERVIEW
THE CONVERSATION As the third generation of the Fendi family to be immersed in the business, Silvia Venturini Fendi knows better than anyone what sets the Italian brand apart BY DEAN MAYO DAVIES
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ilvia Venturini Fendi is considering her experience in the house that shares her name. “I grew up in a normal family, but of course it was a family that valued design and aesthetics,” she says. “I had the chance to meet interesting and complex personalities early on. I was a bit different to my friends because, from a young age, I found it interesting to be part of the adults’ world. I preferred spending an afternoon in the atelier or watching my mother, her sisters or Karl [Lagerfeld] working on a collection, to playing with Barbies or with my friends in the garden.” A world where private and business life melt into one another; it’s something the Fendi family has seen time and again. The business’ origins lie
OPPOSITE PAGE Fendi jack t, pric
in a leather and fur shop founded by Edoardo and Adele Fendi on Via del Plebiscito in Rome in 1925. In 1946, the couple’s five daughters – Paola, Franca, Carla, Alda and Anna (Venturini Fendi’s mother) – added élan to the brand, and the house maintains their playful spirit to this day. Lagerfeld, creator of the women’s ready-to-wear collection (who enters his 50th year at Fendi in 2015), created the famous double-F monogram, the letters standing for “fun” and “fur” as well as the family name. “From the ’60s to now, we always liked to subvert rules and surprise people,” Venturini Fendi explains. At a time of social revolution for women, the five Fendi sisters recognised that the business had to keep pace. They stripped away the huge X
tr
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f suit £1,240
54
status-symbol furs for which the brand was famous, to create fluid and progressive pieces you could wear when driving. “The sisters were working women, very independent, and they wanted to treat this luxurious material in a nonchalant way,” says Venturini Fendi. “When I look at our archive, I see they really did everything. Thanks to them, and to Lagerfeld today, fur is a material that’s fashionable and has lost some of its association with ostentatious wealth – designers are using fur as just another fabric. Fendi began a big revolution.” The house’s Autumn/Winter 2014 menswear collection, designed by Venturini Fendi, has made the most of that innovative heritage. “I was working with fur, but exploring a primitive side too,” she says, “Wild, I’d say. Fur features on everyday items, not just dramatic coats. Plus there’s a playfulness with pieces like big gloves and dog-ear hats – they’re a little cartoonish. This is what you want to find at Fendi.” Combining the unexpected with the essential is key to Fendi’s menswear. Archetypes are upgraded through detailing and fabrication. “I like men who are comfortable in their clothes, who feel their clothes have been tailored to them,” the designer says. “They’re not just following trends. I see a man from a woman’s perspective. I think men can send strong messages through fashion, but they don’t want to give everything away at once, so I design details that aren’t overt – you have to look carefully to discover them.”
• “I think men can send strong messages through fashion, but they don’t want to give everything away at once, so I design details that aren’t overt – you have to look carefully” •
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One illustration of Fendi playfulness is the little monsters hanging off this season’s luggage collection (Venturini Fendi also creates the label’s accessories). These signature tufts of colourful fur have become a phenomenon. In menswear they’re interpreted as shearlings and they look out from the giant men’s Peekaboo bag. “The Peekaboo is more surprising on the inside than the outside,” says Venturini Fendi. “Our little monsters are a light-hearted part of life – when you grab your bag full of documents and go to work, this little friend comes with you!” Embracing technology while savouring tradition is a characteristic of everything signed Fendi Roma. “Technology is the most alive and interesting field – science and engineering are doing so much,” says Venturini Fendi. “That inspires me a lot. Also I’m a practical person since I work on accessories that have a strong functional aspect; I’m attracted to the functionality of an object, which is why I’m confident with menswear – it has to have that. “I often ask myself, ‘What was life like before mobile phones?’ because you tend to forget. I feel lost without an internet connection. I’m interested in what the future is, with all its possibilities. Technology is a fundamental part of our life.” In that spirit, for Spring/Summer 2015, Fendi has collaborated with Beats headphones, creating the ultimate in personal audio. “I use a lot of selleria [a traditional saddle-making approach] in our menswear
Fendi AW14 Corbis
FASHION INTERVIEW
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Fendi AW14 from top Corbis; Getty Images
FASHION INTERVIEW
accessories, which is the oldest way of tooling leather,” she says. “It’s the same technique used in the days of my grandmother, in 1925. It’s exciting to apply a traditional method to something so contemporary, like headphones. You see people wearing them in the street or on planes. And the material we’ve used, omano, ages in a fantastic way. When something is beautiful, it’s beautiful always.” For all the label’s modern glamour, Venturini Fendi prefers to dress simply, buying her shirts from a supplier whose customers are mainly Vatican nuns. “Well, when you live in Rome, it happens easily,” the designer chuckles as she reveals her secret. “When I go there I find interesting things which are functional, with big pockets and classical cuts in good fabrics. I don’t want to think too much about getting dressed in the morning, so I pick navy pants and a grey or white shirt – it’s so practical. I’m proud of my little uniform.” The company is equally proud of its Eternal City heritage, with the brand currently embarking on a series of conservation projects. When CEO Pietro Beccari heard on the radio that the Trevi Fountain needed restoration, he immediately picked up the phone and pledged support. “In all our products there’s ‘Fendi’, but there’s also ‘Roma’ – we’re linked for life,” Venturini Fendi says. “We also have a kind of attraction to water – in the 1970s, when the brand moved from fur into the first
THIS PAGE, RIGHT Silvia V turini F TOP LEFT Back at W14 launch; BOTTOM LEFT Fendi suit £1,240 and shirt £180; OPPOSITE PAGE, FAR LEFT Fendi shirt £180 and tr £205; THIRD FROM LEFT Croc
jack t £4,390, sw £425 and shirt £335; CENTRE Tr £275; SECOND FROM RIGHT Tr £205; FAR RIGHT Shirt £180 and f suit £1,240 tr Available from Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor; and harrods.com
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collection of ready-to-wear, Lagerfeld and the five Fendi sisters commissioned a short movie by Jacques de Bascher, titled Histoire d’Eau. It was the story of a girl who comes to Rome and collects water from all the fountains. It was beautiful and a bit surreal. And in the ’80s, the sisters published a book on the fountains.” Aside from the label’s collaborations with directors and costume designers, Venturini Fendi is passionate about cinema, co-producing I Am Love starring Tilda Swinton, Marisa Berenson and Alba Rohrwacher. She also has a number of other projects in the works, ahead of Fendi’s move next year to the Palazzo della Civiltà Italiana – also known as the Square Coliseum. “It’s a Roman icon, like the Trevi Fountain – a beautiful, modern building. It’s a monument to work, but it’s been empty until now, so we moved in. It will still be a beautifully preserved monument, but finally people will work inside. I think it’s a nice story since we are a working force of the city. The monument will be alive.” Today, Fendi might be backed by LVMH and not a family-owned business, but it’s obvious the same pioneer spirit endures. “I don’t see any difference in the way we approach creativity,” Venturini Fendi says. “We are still a small group of flexible people and we really want to keep our ‘rules’, because they represent our DNA. Our revolutionary aspect remains.” HMN
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WELL TIMED Its forward-thinking designs are the blueprint for the modern watch; now Cartier celebrates with a pop-up show BY LEWIS FIRTH
Clarke Gable Getty Images
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here’s a memorable scene in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes where Marilyn Monroe champions Cartier (among others) while singing Diamonds Are a Girl’s Best Friend. It’s one of many references within popular culture that has helped create a female connection with the brand. Delving into its rich history, however, provides plenty of opposition to this notion: it seems boys love their Cartier toys just as much. Maybe even more so… Cartier made the world’s first modern wristwatch – The Santos – for a man, in 1904. Alberto SantosDumont was a pioneer in aviation, and wanted to tell the time without having to find and remove his pocket watch while flying. The innovative design changed the watch’s appeal, transforming the timepiece from having purely practical applications to one that was also a stylish male accessory, and its popularity soared. Founder Louis-F this vein, ultimately revolutionising horological design. The Tank watch, released during World War I, was influenced by Renault’s FT-17 light tank. The soft rectangular shape challenged the conventional, circular form of watches from the period and went on to grace the wrists of numerous A-listers. The professional portrait with a Tank in plain view framed “King of Hollywood” Clark Gable, fashion leader and legend Yves Saint Laurent, art revolutionary Andy Warhol… the star-studded list goes on. Cartier design doesn’t, however, end in horology. It extends to furniture, accessories (such as cuff links) and, of course, jewellery. The famous Trinity ring – designed in 1924 with three plain, interlinked gold bands – had a surprisingly simple aesthetic given that it was conceived in the extravagant Art Deco period. It became a signature piece, and when poet, artist and filmmaker Jean Cocteau requested something special from the brand, Trinity was what he received. His appreciation for the piece was conspicuous – as was the Duke of Windsor’s nearly two decades later – and while the design is just shy of a century old, it still retains a contemporary feel and remains much sought after. Cartier’s male heritage is significant, and the “Talk to Men” in-store exhibition and pop-up – running from 25th October to 19th November – will celebrate this, previewing men’s watches, accessories and vintage items. Focusing on the brand’s historical and current range of innovative pieces for men, it will re-examine Louis-F Cartier’s love for questioning the norms and
FROM TOP Clark
alibr
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Cartier C s watch £5,700
Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor
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disregarding the protocols. In particular, the spotlight will fall on how the men’s range facilitated his quest for avant-garde design. Like any business, the house must also look to the future and, this being Cartier, it is, again, way ahead of its time. In true Louis-F style, concept watches ID One and ID Two (released in 2009 and 2012 respectively) have sidestepped established construction methods in favour of a more modern approach. These watches don’t require lubrication or regulation, and they employ cuttingedge materials, such as carbon crystal and niobium titanium, that dramatically improve efficiency. Neither ID watch is commercially available, but the forward-thinking functionality has created a blueprint of what’s to come – such as the Cartier de Calibre Diver’s watch. Launched in January this year, with a robust shape and rubber strap, the watch is immediately identifiable as an object of modernity. Nonetheless, the new design remains recognisably Cartier with its combination of Roman numerals and flanged bezel. And enduring proof that past, present and future, Cartier is not just for blondes. HMN
58 PROMOTION
QUALITY TIME A passion for excellence underpins Italian luxury clothing company Loro Piana
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n the face of it, Loro Piana is archetypally Italian. Founded back in 1924 by the Loro Piana family (wool merchants since the early 1800s) it shares the same appreciation of fine fabric, craftsmanship and quality that has defined Italian luxury for decades. But the secret to the brand’s success in creating peerless knitwear, sportswear and casualwear lies beyond the confines of its headquarters in the picturesque Italian province of Vercelli. Loro Piana’s commitment to sourcing rare, sustainable and responsibly produced fabrics has taken it on a quest to the most remote corners of the earth. Consider its signature fabric, vicuña, an exceptionally fine natural fibre famed for its superlative softness and warmth. The
Loro Piana Sw Martingala coat £5,490, G v sw cardigan £1,860, £905 and Soft Walk
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vicuña is sourced from the fleece of a small, wild camelid who can only be sheared once every two years, and which is only found in a high-altitude area of the Andes, where food, water and even oxygen are in limited supply. The animal’s location and scarcity aren’t the only obstacles Loro Piana has had to surpass. In the 20th century, the vicuña was on the verge of extinction; its sale was banned entirely in 1976 as the population dwindled to just 6,000. Recognising the importance of the animal, the brand made a concerted effort to protect and repopulate the species, and in 1994 it was granted the sole right to reintroduce the fleece to the market. Today, thanks in a large part to Loro Piana’s endeavours, the animal is no longer under threat.
59 PROMOTION
The brand’s revered baby cashmere has equally exotic origins, hailing from Hyrcus goats found in a remote region of Mongolia. The ultra-fine fibre (which measures less than 13 microns) comes from the underfleece of the goats, which can be combed only once within their first 12 months of life. Once the coarser hairs have been discarded, a single combing yields 30-40 grams of usable fibre, meaning the underfleece of around 58 goats is required to make one overcoat. The production of baby cashmere not only results in superlative-quality fabric, but also helps to sustain the lifestyle of the nomadic Mongolian goatherds who look after their flocks in time-honoured tradition. An expedition to Myanmar saw the Loro Piana team meet with the world’s last weavers of lotus, a sacred plant that grows on the surface of Inle Lake in southeast Myanmar. The stems of the plant’s leaves and flowers are prized for their fibres, which the indigenous Intha people weave into a lightweight fabric with similar properties to linen. Today, thanks to the company’s investment, the local community has a valuable long-term source of income, and the
• “Loro Piana’s search for excellence doesn’t end with cloth; fit and functionality are also of paramount importance” •
Loro Piana R vicuña and silk jack t £12,390, vicuña and baby jack t £4,870, Alain c glov shirt £535, D vicuña and mink scarf £7,525
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ancient techniques of Intha artisans have been preserved for future generations. Closer to home, the company is a pioneering force in the development of innovative processes and technically advanced fabrics, many of which it has patented. For example fine fabrics are treated to become windproof and water-resistant without compromising on pliability or handle thanks to the company’s Storm System finish. Unusually, Loro Piana is vertically integrated, allowing the company to exert its exacting standards at every step – and its production is exclusively Italian. But Loro Piana’s search for excellence doesn’t end with cloth; fit and functionality are also of paramount importance. The company’s luxurious parkas, anoraks and padded ski jackets are expertly and ergonomically designed – lightweight yet insulating, slim-cut but with an ease of movement. Likewise, the babycashmere knitwear is similarly considered: a balance between timeless Italian elegance with a sporty aesthetic and an exceptional degree of comfort. Available from Men’s Tailoring, Ground Floor
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TARTAN & CHECKS
ROCK CITY
GENTLEMAN’S CLUB
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ARTISANAL
MILITARY
for its show, which saw everything from slim suits to shearling sweatshirts embellished with crystal and embroidered beadwork. Gauntlets aside, that vision of new Medieval splendour rendered eveningwear in darkly opulent jacquards, coats in painted lambskin and luxurious sweaters encrusted with baroque decoration. Jacquards, too, are one of Haider Ackermann’s strong suits, in heavy variegated tweeds and warm earth tones, cut as roomy duster coats or long, skinny blazers. At Burberry Prorsum, designer Christopher Bailey referenced the Bloomsbury Group with decadent bohemian outerwear that came painted or screen-printed and worn over heavy wools, fringed suede and shearling.
05_Military The cooler months are a perfect time to revel in the protective comfort of military-inspired pieces. All manner of uniform elements were incorporated by myriad designers, from the subtle shape of a knit
ARTISANAL
FROM LEFT Dolce & Gabbana;
Dolce & Gabbana; Haider Ackermann; Haider Ackermann; Burberry Prorsum; Burberry Prorsum
collar to an engraved brass button or the iconic stamp of camouflage. Bottega Veneta’s slimline utilitarian suiting was executed in an array of army greens. At Dior Homme, Belgian designer Kris Van Assche found a fresh way of fusing classical pinstripe suiting and prints from the Dior archives. Deepolive wool coats and parkas lined in shaggy fur were worn with flak jacket-style blazers and waistcoats. Elsewhere, double-breasted naval peacoats were de rigueur. Guillaume Henry at Carven and Maison Martin Margiela offered some of the season’s best in wool flannel, paired with flared turtleneck sweaters or matching button-down shirts, while Vivienne Westwood’s slick, sexed-up version came in heavy black felt with lacquered black buttons.
MILITARY
06_Texture
Veneta; Carven; Maison Martin Margiela; Maison Martin Margiela; Vivienne Westwood
Fur for men is the epitome of personal luxury. The bygone tradition has returned to relevance of late, first and foremost at Fendi, the ultimate Roman fur
FROM LEFT Dior Homme; Bottega
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TEXTURE
SPORTS LUXE
brand, responsible for cutting shearling, sable, fox and mink into simple, masculine designs that echo luxury both inside and out. This season, injecting a little humour into her craft, Silvia Venturini Fendi created a series of zipped blousons that have been meticulously cut from pieces of coloured shearling to create eyes and teeth across the chest or shoulders. Other Italian houses have also excelled in fur, with timeless pieces in the form of Prada’s belted Argentine fox coat, and a liquid black ponyskin mackintosh at Bottega Veneta. In Paris, however, Kim Jones gave the Italians a run for their money at Louis Vuitton, where he sourced the world’s softest vicuña fibres that he panelled as tufted squares across suede jackets or knit into striped sweaters.
07_Sports luxe The sports-luxe theme that has been around for a few seasons has been souped up as design houses discover ever more technically advanced fabrics and
TEXTURE
FROM LEFT Fendi; Fendi; Prada;
Bottega Veneta; Bottega Veneta; Louis Vuitton SPORTS LUXE
FROM LEFT Balenciaga; Balenciaga;
Louis Vuitton; Louis Vuitton; Kenzo; Kenzo from M ’s Con ary and M ’s In , Low Ground Floor; M ’s ’s In Tailoring, Ground Floor
Av D
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work them into formal menswear designs or, better still, use traditional suiting fabrics in sports-inspired shapes. Balenciaga has always pioneered this movement, as has its designer, Alexander Wang, who this season created a lacquered cable-knit duffle coat and a zipped anorak in black bonded satin. While Wang’s designs sit firmly in urban climes, Kim Jones’ Louis Vuitton took inspiration from South American desert landscapes, which translated as a layered silhouette of opulent extreme-weather gear (parkas and bombers in silk bonded on cashmere) worn with suit trousers and hiking boots. At Kenzo, designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon were looking at the industrial towns of the American northwest, yet their workwear base was accented by graphics across blousons, and chunky, Buffalo-style shoes embellished with metallic spanners and cogs. HMN Dan Thawley is Editor-in-Chief of A Magazine Curated By. He also writes for Vogue, Interview and other titles
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DETAILS OF THE UNEXPECTED Guarded by some slippery little suckers, this season’s most sought-after accessories are playfully patterned, luxuriously textured and hypnotically cool PHOTOGRAPHER ARTHUR WOODCROFT
Givenchy skull car Webster brac
fr t £999 and ring fr
Montblanc Mozart foun Pierre Hardy w
Gucci t £159; Saint Laurent car
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Stephen £110
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Louis Vuitton padlock k y Gucci
£375; Burberry London w t £225; Montblanc Aspinal of London w t £85; Stephen Webster brac
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£160; t £599
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Dior Homme fr
Eton cuff links fr S.T. Dupont carbon fibr
Louis Vuitton w t £340; Valextra card from £325; Stephen Webster brac t fr
Available from Louis Vuitton, Men’s Accessories and Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s International Collections and Sunglasses, Ground Floor; Gifts & Stationery and The Great Writing Room, Second Floor; and harrods.com
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CUT FROM A DIFFERENT CLOTH Jason Basmajian is the brilliant American designer bringing Savile Row stalwart Gieves & Hawkes into the 21st century BY LINDSAY MACPHERSON
R
einvigorating a brand while respecting its heritage is no easy assignment. But when the company in question comes with 243 years of British history, three royal warrants, a client list that includes everyone from Winston Churchill to Charlie Chaplin, and a postal address of No. 1 Savile Row, it becomes a task of mammoth proportions. What makes Jason Basmajian’s feat all the more remarkable is the fact that he isn’t even British; he’s a Bostonian who honed his skills as the head of menswear design at Donna Karan and Calvin Klein before spending six years as artistic director of Italian tailoring label Brioni. Basmajian talks to Harrods Magazine about how he’s re-established Gieves & Hawkes as a force to be reckoned with. Were you given a brief when you joined the company? I was brought on board to modernise the brand without losing its essence, but I was never given a brief. I was given a lot of support but also a lot of autonomy, and I never felt restricted. I think that’s because the company and its shareholders liked the fact that I was respectful towards the brand and its history. I know it’s not about reinventing the wheel. Instead it’s about underlining Gieves & Hawkes’ strong points and making it feel fresh and relevant.
Before joining Gieves & Hawkes you worked at Brioni. What are the differences between Savile Row and Italian tailoring? English tailoring has always been quite strict X
Photo Alex Board
Was it an intimidating prospect to take on an established British brand? I grew up in Boston, then lived in New York, and I’ve worked in Paris and Milan, and have spent a lot of time in Asia. That’s given me an international perspective on tailoring and also on men’s style. I’d like Gieves & Hawkes to speak an international language but keep its British accent. I feel privileged to be chosen to work for such an incredible, and incredibly important, English brand.
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and structured, whereas the Italian style is far less traditional. What’s interesting is that the Italian style was actually inspired by Savile Row. The Italians took the idea of English tailoring as their starting point but made it softer, more continental and better suited to the Italian climate. It’s a sexier interpretation. At Gieves & Hawkes we celebrate the strengths of Savile Row – beautiful shoulder constructions, for example – but we’re not afraid to make it a little more modern, clean-lined and comfortable. The new pieces are elegant but they’ve also got ease, so they don’t feel fussy or pretentious. Gieves & Hawkes has over 240 years of history. How did you honour that heritage while still moving the brand forwards? My stance is evolution and elevation, not revolution: it’s all about finding equilibrium. Gieves & Hawkes has more heritage than any brand I’ve worked with, more history than any I can even think of. Obviously that’s a huge strength, but it can also be quite daunting. For example, at our headquarters at No. 1 Savile Row, we have a dedicated archive room with a full-time archivist. We also dress the Queen’s Gentlemen at Arms and hold three royal warrants. It’s been exciting to draw inspiration from that, but we’re also careful not to live in the past. If history and heritage aren’t used properly, they can weigh a brand down. Who is the Gieves & Hawkes man? We already had a great client base, so it was important for us to acknowledge that. I think it’s a mistake when a brand goes through a kind of identity crisis and alienates its loyal clientele. It’s more interesting to take a new direction that keeps your existing customers happy. I wanted to reach out to different generations. Now we’ve got the son
• “Gieves & Hawkes has more heritage than any brand I’ve worked with, more history than any I can even think of. Obviously that’s a huge strength, but it can also be quite daunting” •
shopping with us as well as the father, which is great. Our youngest customer to come in for a bespoke suit was 18 years old. Equally, if a 65-year-old wants to buy one of our beautifully cut motorcycle jackets with a fur collar, well, why not? The lifestyles of our customers may differ, but their values don’t. How have you reworked Gieves & Hawkes’ tailoring? Underneath my office there’s a beautiful Gieves & Hawkes atelier that does bespoke, so I’ve been able to redo our ready-to-wear patterns with a bespoke pattern-cutter. That means I can give a man buying an off-the-peg suit the same consideration of cut, fit and detailing that you get in bespoke. We’re also offering a lot of special services and customisation options, and we’ve worked with the mills to develop some amazing exclusive fabrics. The AW14 collection includes more casual pieces. What was your inspiration when designing them? We’re a sartorial brand first and foremost, so everything we do is rooted in tailoring. It’s exciting to be able to do new categories, but even if we’re developing sportswear or accessories, we’ll always incorporate some element of tailoring. That could be in the fabrics, or the precise cut, or maybe in the detailing. It’s important to remember that we’re not a fashion brand, though. Gieves & Hawkes has always placed quality, style and elegance over the latest trends. Men don’t change their wardrobes every season; they need pieces they can wear for years without becoming dated.
LEFT Gieves & Hawkes blouson £2,950, sw £1,325, tr £199; ABOVE RIGHT Gieves & Hawkes jack t £2,250, shirt £129 and tr
Available from Men’s Tailoring, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
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What are your aspirations for the brand? I’m ambitious to grow, but I also want to make sure we remain specialist. I don’t think every company necessarily needs to become a billion-dollar brand. It’s nice to have something that still feels special and exclusive. HMN
77 FASHION
ABOUT FACE
From would-be submariners to sports aficionados, watch connoisseurs are spoilt for choice with designs in time for every mood PHOTOGRAPHER MATTHEW SHAVE
FORCES’ FAVOURITES
WATCHES, FROM TOP U-Boat Classico 48 Chrono 925, £3,250; Omega
Aqua T a O Co-Axial £3,720; Panerai Luminor B ays Titanio £5,300; Bell & Ross WW1 G £2,300; Zenith Pilot T CLOTHING, FROM TOP Jacob Cohen jack t £560; Juun J sw £925; Valentino jack t £3,350; Sandro jack t £380; Kurt Geiger boots £150
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SUNDAY BEST
WATCHES, FROM TOP Breitling Colt Quartz with silv
stratus dial £1,940; Corum Admiral’s C tual in Omega Aqua T a Golf £3,800; Montblanc M H utomatic £1,915; CLOTHING, FROM TOP Kurt Geiger Falke gr y socks £12.95 and black D socks £12.95; Boglioli suit jack t £950; Paul & Joe jack t £595; Club Monaco sw £130; AMI shirt fr
Rolex Oy
P
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FASHION STATEMENT
WATCHES, FROM TOP Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshor
onograph £30,500; Romain Jerome Spac nv R Jacob & Co. Ghost Watch £4,260; Jean Richard T asc £3,150; TAG Heuer Formula 1 Calibr Sunspel gr y top £89.95; Blood Brother top £89.95; Chronograph £2,095; CLOTHING, FROM TOP Givenchy Club Monaco sw £180; Sunspel top £89.95; Blood Brother
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RACE LEADERS
WATCHES, FROM TOP IWC A
Chronograph Edition Galapagos Islands £8,250; Richard Mille RM 033, £68,500; onograph £19,000; Girard-Perregaux Shadow Hawk £12,950; Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshor CLOTHING, FROM TOP Sandro AllSaints sw £98; Sandro shirt £160; 3.1 Phillip Lim sw fr Sandro sw £210; Saint Laurent Available from Men’s Contemporary Designer and Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor; and The Fine Watch Room and Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor Stylist POPPY ROCK; Photogr
s Assistants CHANTEL KING and ANDREW MAGURRAN
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CALL OF THE WILD The natural antidote to the rise and rise of smart suiting is thoroughly laid-back weekend wear, with parkas and hoodies layered over distressed jeans and chinos
AllSaints coat £998, jack t £398 and top £50; Burberry Prorsum scarf £450 and tr
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Credits TK Images
PHOTOGRAPHER JULIAN BROAD FASHION EDITOR VICTORIA GAIGER
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THIS PAGE Bottega Veneta coat £5,310, sw
Gucci c
£495 and tr shirt £2,020; Neil Barrett
coat fr
Rag & Bone jack t £605; AllSaints top £30; Kurt Geiger boots £140 OPPOSITE PAGE AllSaints top £50; Juun J tr £470; Kurt Geiger boots £140
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THIS PAGE Burberry Prorsum coat £1,995 and tr
AllSaints top £50 OPPOSITE PAGE Missoni wrap £875; Valentino jack t fr Burberry Prorsum cardigan £595; AllSaints top £50; Duchamp tr fr
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THIS PAGE Yves Salomon parka £1,325; Lanvin jack t £2,475; Balmain shirt £260; AllSaints top £50; Berluti tr Jil Sander sw £1,375 £600; OPPOSITE PAGE Dolce & Gabbana coat £7.220 and tr
Available from Men’s International Gallery, Men’s Contemporary Designer, Men’s Casuals and Men’s Accessories, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor; and Men’s Fashion Lab, 5th Floor s; M AH HUNTLEY at N xt; Grooming LIZ DAXAUER at Car s Assistant EDWARD BOURMIER; Digital O ator ADAM PHILLIPS Photogr
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MEASURE FOR MEASURE Previously the preserve of traditionalists, made-to-measure has been reimagined for the 21st century. Suits and coats come in a choice of fabrics, colours and cuts to satisfy the thoroughly modern gent PHOTOGRAPHER DAVID EUSTACE FASHION EDITOR VICTORIA GAIGER
LEFT Corneliani coat £5,500; Dior Homme waistcoat £560, shirt £400, tr ollar pin £330; Paul Smith om £193; Stephen Webster ac t SECOND FROM fr Kurt Geiger oat £4,490; Boglioli LEFT Ermenegildo Zegna coutur suit £875; Hardy Amies shirt £110; Harrods of London hat SECOND £109; Falke socks £12.95; Kurt Geiger Gieves & Hawkes FROM RIGHT Ami coat fr waistcoat and tr links fr Stephen Webster RIGHT Corneliani coat Santoni fr £1,450; Tom Ford jack t £2,450, shirt £365, Harrods of London hat £139; Jimmy Choo tr fr
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Credits TK Images
THIS PAGE Carven coat £680; Dior Homme waistcoat £560, shirt £400 £480; Paul Smith and tr Stephen Webster pin and ring fr Harrods of London hat £159; OPPOSITE PAGE Prada coat £13,100; Tom Ford jack t £2,450, shirt £365, tr Falke socks £12.95; fr Jimmy Choo
HARRODS MAN / VOLUME TWO
Credits TK Images
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THIS PAGE Juun J coat £1,175; Gieves
& Hawkes suit £2,250; Turnbull & Asser shirt £165; Harrods of £39.95; OPPOSITE PAGE London Ermenegildo Zegna coutur oat £5,490; Corneliani £339; £249; Harrods of Canali tr London hat £109; Falke socks £12.95; fr Kurt Geiger Available from Men’s Contemporary Designer, Men’s International Gallery, Men’s Shirts & Ties and Tom Ford, Lower Ground Floor; and Men’s Tailoring, Ground Floor Grooming TREVOR BOWDEN; M MARC BRADY and ALEX SINCLAIR at FM, RICHARD DEISS at N vs, and FRANK STOLL at TIAD; Fashion In KELLY LARA BLUFF; Photogr s Assistants JAZ JAGDEO, TOM ORTIZ ator and JIM YORKSTON; Digital O CLARK FRANKLYN
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99 GROOMING
BEARD… Beards are back. But not just any beards. It’s a very particular brand of the beast that’s making its mark PHOTOGRAPHER PANI PAUL
KEEPING IT CLOSE Cast your mind back to the Hermès show (have a scratchy chin moment while you think about it) and you may recall spotting a beard to behold. It’s neat; it’s fairly closely trimmed (but not so uniform that you look uptight); and it’s perfectly graded in its downwards direction (this avoids the chin-strap effect – always a good thing). Even better if you team it with wavy hair (à la 3.1 Phillip Lim show). You know the kind… looks natural, but is rather well considered. Rather like your good self. Wooyoungmi coat £775; Turnbull & Asser shirt £165 Grooming LEE MACHIN at Car s hair car C; M OLIVER RUSSELL Available from Men’s Contemporary Designer, Men’s International Gallery and Men’s Shirts & Ties, Lower Ground Floor; and harrods.com
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100 GROOMING
…SHEARED So it can be done. A short back and sides, if it’s cut just right, has serious versatility. And the A/W runways proved it. Combs at the ready. Scene one, take four
TAKING SIDES
FRINGE BENEFITS
At Dries Van Noten and Valentino, the guys’ hair was simply side-parted and neatly combed. Use a minimum of product to style with overkill.
The very neat fringe is riding high. So simply sweep forward and for a more youthful look, add texture (as seen at the Lanvin show) to the crown for contrast.
APC coat £500; Hardy Amies shirt £110
Juun J coat £1,175; Turnbull & Asser shirt £165
LEVEL HEADED
THE NAKED NAPE
Create the retro appearance of a 1980s flat, but with added sophistication. Brush hair high with strong-hold gel – but avoid the wet look.
Don’t forget your rear mirror. To create a strikingly simple look at all times, keep the back of the cut well trimmed – it’s what gives the sides greater contrast.
Wooyoungmi shirt £225
APC coat £500; Hardy Amies shirt £110
Grooming LEE MACHIN at Car s hair car C; M Available from Men’s Contemporary Designer, Men’s International Gallery and Men’s Shirts & Ties, Lower Ground Floor; and harrods.com
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PROMOTION
THE GROOMER It’s time to man up to colder days ahead with face-saving, fatigue-fighting grooming products PHOTOGRAPHER MATTHEW SHAVE
ACQUA DI PARMA Colonia Leather Top notes of Sicilian lemon and Brazilian orange oil combine with resins and birch oil for a deliciously warming blend. 180ml, £185
LA PRAIRIE Extrait of Skin Caviar Firming Complex This oil-free emulsion, lightweight in texture, is packed with nutrients to maintain skin firmness. 30ml, £98
SK-II Men Facial Treatment Essence Tailor-made for men, the cocktail of antiageing ingredients helps skin appear more youthful. 215ml, £120
NUBO Perfectionist A secret weapon for tired, stressed skin, to mattify and soften the appearance of fine lines with light-diffusing minerals. 30ml, £50
Available from The Gentleman’s Lounge, Lower Ground Floor
HARRODS MAN / VOLUME TWO
SISLEY Sisleÿum for Men Anti-Age evitalizer Vitamins, minerals and more: this anti-ageing multitasker moisturises, firms and soothes, all in one. 50ml, £160
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THE GROOMER Skincare gadgets are go for the modern gentleman who loves new technology BY STEPHEN DOIG
The GOOD VIBES Dr Harold Lancer – one of LA’s eminent skin specialists, with more than 30 years’ experience in the industry – has introduced the Lancer Microcurrent Power Boost. With all the sleekness of a Montblanc pen, it features a germanium metal tip that vibrates at the optimum frequency to drive nutrients into the skin, stimulating collagen and elastin production. It also massages the underlying facial muscles, temporarily improving circulation. The result? Skin appears revitalised. £250
The EYE FOR DETAIL As many a businessman will attest, a week of cityhopping and meetings will take a toll on the skin, in particular around the eyes. WrinkleMD’s Eye Hyaluronic Acid Deep Infusion System infuses your skin with plumping hyaluronic acid via a pre-loaded patch, using tiny pulses of positive and negative charges. The microcomputer, worn around your neck, evaluates your skin and calibrates the level of hydration. A tailor-made treatment. £189
The SMOOTH OPERATOR It might be an unpalatable truth, but the bar for body-grooming standards has been raised. Now you can eschew waxing and sugaring in favour of Tria’s Hair Removal Laser 4X. It harnesses technology that’s previously only been used in clinics, and works to provide the kind of long-term solution to unwanted body hair that can cost thousands of pounds. It targets the hair follicle to “disable” it, and with each use reduces the chance of regrowth. £375
The SURGERY ALTERNATIVE The POWER OF PLUS In high-shine black, the Clarisonic Plus Skin Cleansing System looks entirely sci-fi; happily, the effect is out of this world too. The brush uses gentle sonic micro-massage action to cleanse deeply. It also unclogs pores without harsh abrasion or chemicals and helps prepare the skin to absorb skincare products more effectively. The device even emits a beep when it’s time to move on to the next area of the face. Bottom line? It’s proven to be twice as effective as manual cleaning with soap and water. Now that’s a science lesson we can get behind. £179
Available from The Gentleman’s Lounge, Lower Ground Floor; The Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor; and harrods.com HARRODS MAN / VOLUME TWO
Model Camera Press
Figures show that now more than ever, men are opting for cosmetic procedures to stay ahead of their contemporaries in the workplace and maintain an air of vim and vigour. But for those who find the notion too aggressive, a new device aims to smooth tired lines and invigorate weary skin. The hand-held CACI Microlift enables users to both tone the skin and retrain facial muscles with its muscle-firming action. The technology has been a success in salons, and now you can enjoy it in the privacy of your own home. Granted, you won’t look particularly dignified using it, but your skin will thank you. £350
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NEWS Sensual scent, power-packed cream, Stateside shaves and spa remedies Earth NOTES A distinctive addition to the Ferrari fragrance collection, Vetiver Essence opens with sparkling petitgrain and red pepper berries for a fresh start, while notes of rich coffee bean and sensual woods complement the earthiness of vetiver. These give the composition its dark, masculine edge. With the addition of orris – one of the most expensive ingredients in perfumery – this is certainly a fragrance with impact. 100ml, £79.
Spa STAR
EGF Platinum 7 for Men by Nurse Jamie is an all-in-one, supercharged day cream for both face and neck. In the antioxidant-rich formula, 24kt gold and platinum team up to protect against wrinkles, while five other key ingredients provide protection and hydration. The end game? To improve skin texture and soothe irritation after shaving. 50g, £510.
Close SHAVE Get a grip on your shaving technique with eShave from New York. Along with luxurious soaps, oils and creams, which can be applied with a badger brush, check out a range of razors that provide the perfect balance of form and function. In true pick ’n’ mix style, choose a colourful handle to match four heads in different metal finishes. Easy to manoeuvre, the razor glides across the skin, delivering a modern take on the traditional wet shave. £54
Stephen Doig is a fashion and lifestyle journalist who has written for Vogue, GQ and The Telegraph
Available from The Gentleman’s Lounge, Lower Ground Floor; The Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor; and harrods.com HARRODS MAN / VOLUME TWO
Model Getty Images
Nurse’s ORDERS
In these tricky sartorial times, men’s grooming has taken on a new level of absurdity, with terms such as “spornosexual” and “manscaping” now in active circulation. So much so that the art of traditional grooming – that splash of cologne on skin that’s fresh from a wet shave; a reviving face wash to lend pep and vim to your morning routine – is in danger of being forgotten. Whatever happened to the art of sophisticated grooming for the man who’s more Cary Grant than Carry On TOWIE? Luckily, it’s still possible to find treatments and products catering to more nuanced and refined grooming. And as someone who values time-honoured customs, I’m on a mission to highlight them. The first port of call should be The Refinery at the Harrods Spa. Billed as a “one-stop grooming emporium for men”, The Refinery evokes the feel of a gentleman’s club and offers treatments tailored towards the modern man-about-town. For the highprofile executive who spends his days dashing from the Square Mile to Canary Wharf, the SkinCeuticals City Recovery Facial is designed to detox and cleanse skin that’s clogged with the detritus of urban living; all you need do is relax in the low-lit haven of tranquillity and allow The Refinery’s experts to massage, steam, rehydrate and extract toxins from the skin in a treatment that’s reassuringly supportive of the male ego. More importantly, the overall effect is nothing short of remarkable: skin is clearer, blotchy patches fade and dark circles around eyes are visibly reduced. And not a manscape or spornosexual in sight.
109 LIFESTYLE
FRENCH TOAST Hailing from Bordeaux’s exclusive Rothschild stable, Mouton Cadet is truly a wine to celebrate BY MIKE PEAKE
Vineyard Getty Images
Y
ou can tell a lot about a wine by the way it is stored before bottling; the lion’s share of the world’s most fussed-about tipple is kept in utilitarian vats or barrelled up in what amounts to little more than a dusty warehouse. In stark contrast, at the historic Château Mouton Rothschild, the wine is nurtured in what looks like the vaults of a cathedral; a thousand hand-crafted oak casks are laid out side by side in the breathtaking “Grand Chai” (Great Barrel Hall) that lies at the heart of the estate. The smell in this stately chamber is a fusion of slowly maturing grapes, shaved wood and something else – something heady and magical. If ultrapremium Bordeaux wines have a spiritual home, this is it. And the grapes grown on this lavish estate in the world-famous Médoc region – just north of Bordeaux’s pleasantly bustling city centre – are destined for a Premier Cru with unrivalled cachet. Mouton Rothschild’s story starts in the mid-1800s, when Baron Nathaniel de Rothschild, a member of the English branch of the international dynasty, left his career in the family banking empire and bought the estate. The formative years passed without any great fanfare, but in 1922, Baron Nathaniel’s greatgrandson, Baron Philippe de Rothschild – barely 20 years old – took over the estate and brought with him a true passion for wine that has benefited the company ever since. Among the highest echelons of wine-making, location and quality are everything. But marketing irrefutably plays its part, and Baron Philippe had an unusually creative eye that has played a pivotal part in the Mouton story. Since 1945, the label for each year’s vintage has featured original artwork by
TOP outon-Rothschild, which produc first Mouton t in 1930; ABOVE Mouton Cadet C Cup £15
Available from The Wine Rooms, Lower Ground Floor; and harrods.com
HARRODS MAN / VOLUME TWO
a contemporary artist. The tradition began with a succession of relatively unknown French artists, but quickly gathered momentum when more famous names became involved. Given complete creative freedom, these artists have, over seven decades, helped the château create a portfolio that has been shown at more than 40 museums around the world. The labels include a pencil sketch by Balthus, an abstract painting by Francis Bacon and a collage by Andy Warhol. Pablo Picasso’s drawing from 1973 is a particular delight, as are pieces by Salvador Dalí (1958) and pop artist Keith Haring (1988). While Château Mouton Rothschild is one of the world’s most exclusive wines, a canny decision made by Baron Philippe 84 years ago ensured that some of the estate’s prestige would rub off on another successful cuvée – Mouton Cadet. In 1930, the harvest in Bordeaux was a modest one. Conscious of protecting Mouton Rothschild’s stellar reputation, the Baron opted to release that year’s vintage not under the château label, but as a new brand, Mouton Cadet. It subsequently became an annual release, and today is the world’s leading Bordeaux AOC wine, made from grapes grown on more than 400 parcels of land across Bordeaux. Within the Mouton Cadet range, there is a red – well structured, with blackcurrant fruit and elegant, toasty oak; a white – floral, with citrus notes; and a rosé – fresh and fruity with cherry tones. And with more than 12 million bottles now sold each year, what began as young Baron Philippe’s idea to safeguard the estate’s reputation – and as a means of bringing the wine to the palates of a wider audience – is now a Bordeaux benchmark, enjoyed in more than 150 countries. This September, a special edition of Mouton Cadet will be the official wine of golf ’s biennial Ryder Cup, contested between Europe and the USA, which this year returns to Gleneagles in Scotland for the first time in more than 40 years. It’s a natural marriage of two entities inextricably linked by a love of nature and an appreciation of the good life. “We wanted to make a selection within a selection,” explains Hugues Lechanoine, Managing Director of Baron Philippe de Rothschild, referring to the company’s wish to make the Mouton Cadet Sélection Ryder Cup extra special. “So, just as the captains of the teams have to select 12 players, we selected just 12 parcels of land from which to make the wine.” The result is a perfect pairing. HMN Mike Peake writes for The Telegraph, The Sunday Times and The Mail on Sunday
110 LIFESTYLE
BOARD DECISION Timing and wine pairings are everything when it comes to making the most of your chosen cheeses BY GUY WOODWARD
entertaining guests, save their oldest, most delicate wine until after the main course; it then tends to be served with a ripe, young cheese which invariably overpowers the precious nectar. Just as fragile fine wines tend to be knocked for six by big, strong cheeses, so softer, more subtle cheeses are generally rendered impotent by pairing with a brash, young, tannic red monster. Lighter reds are often a better fit, with Burgundy (or the more elegant, new-world pinot noirs), Rioja and Barbaresco working well with hard cheeses such as Cornish Yarg, Cheddar, Gruyère, Parmesan or Manchego. It is something of a sweeping generalisation, but white wines often work better than reds – and provide another reason to serve cheese after dessert, where whites serve to refresh rather than assault the palate. Certainly, a minerally, steely Chablis works wonders in cutting through the richness of a creamy St Jude, Brie or Camembert. When it comes to the tricky issue of goat’s cheese, sauvignon blanc is the go-to choice. And cheese expert Fiona Beckett, publisher of matchingfoodandwine.com, recommends dry, oxidative vin jaune to complement the salty tang of Comté. Beckett puts great value in matching cheeses with wines of the same region. The reasoning is as much cultural as it is scientific – though there is some logic behind pairing cheeses with wines that originate from the same terroir. “If the locals drink a wine with a certain dish, then it probably works,” Beckett says. “Good examples which apply to cheese are Crottin de Chavignol goat’s cheese with Sancerre [both from the Loire Valley], or [soft but strong] Munster and [lychee and rose-tinged] gewürztraminer in Alsace. But it’s not totally foolproof. Burgundians are really keen on drinking red Burgundy with Époisses cheese, for instance, when a sweet wine would actually be much better. But they don’t make one of those in Burgundy…” Sweet wines often provide the ultimate match. Beckett picks out Tuscany’s syrupy vin santo with Gorgonzola dolce or piccante as a particular favourite. Pretty much any marriage between a rich blue – be it Roquefort, Bleu des Causses, Stilton or Colston Bassett Shropshire Blue – and an unctuous, sticky wine – Sauternes, perhaps, or an Australian botrytis sémillon – is heavenly. And there’s always the classic cliché: port and Stilton. It’s a cliché for a reason though; perhaps we Brits had this cheese and wine thing right all along… HMN
Cheeseboard Sarah Hogan
I
t’s all very well assembling a killer cheeseboard, nestling mature Cheddar and herby Pecorino alongside light, fresh goat’s cheese or a creamy Camembert. But the question is, at what stage of your dinner party should you present it? And, more importantly, which wine should you serve with it? To a large extent, one answer follows the other. The French take cheese after the main course, but before dessert, on the basis that: a) cheese deserves a grand stage, rather than being treated as a triviality; and b) sweetness should always follow saltiness, rather than being crammed uncomfortably between two savoury plates. In the UK, we tend to do things the other way around, an approach that is frowned upon by purists, but actually has much to recommend it. Finishing a meal with a sweet treat may make gastronomic sense, but as sure as night follows day, the onset of dessert – and then coffee – brings the evening to a rather conservative close. Bring out an oozing cheeseboard after dessert, however, and a whiff of indulgence takes over as a slightly less civilised, potentially even bacchanalian, scene unfolds due to the presence of wine, rather than coffee, at the centre of the table. And so to the key question: which wine to choose? In taking cheese after the main course, the French are able to continue drinking the same type of (largely red) wine to which their palates have become attuned over the course of the meal. That said, one of the biggest myths in food and drink is the suggestion that any red wine goes well with cheese. Certainly, I am constantly amazed at how high-end Bordeaux châteaux, when
Burgundy can work w with FROM LEFT Vincent Dampt 2013 Chablis £16.95; Bachelet-Monnot 2012 Mar C
HARRODS MAN / VOLUME TWO
Available from The Wine Rooms, Lower Ground Floor; Food Halls, Ground Floor;
and harrods.com
112 LIFESTYLE
TOP OF THE RANGE Though its roots lie in the most basic 4WD ever built, the latest incarnation of the Range Rover Sport is the epitome of hi-tech style and comfort BY GUS CHADWICK
A
t a service station somewhere in Gloucestershire, an early Series One Land Rover chugs to a halt in a puff of diesel smoke and parks alongside the gleaming 2014 Range Rover Sport. The Series One is resplendent in traditional, battle-scarred green with a weathered canvas roof, a dented front bumper and a Land Rover Owners Club sticker. By contrast, the Range Rover Sport is finished in brilliant white and appears to be at least twice the size of its ancestor in every dimension. The old car is a stark reminder of the Range Rover Sport’s roots – and of just how far the car has come from that original concept. Sixty-six years ago, Maurice Wilks’ visionary Land Rover was bereft of luxury: a basic engine driving all four wheels for ease of repair and maintenance literally “in the field”. With only the bare essentials for functional operation, it was designed and engineered for simplicity, capability and strength. It’s surely the greatest testimony to the original design that it’s estimated that two-thirds of these vehicles are still being driven on a daily basis, many of them in the most inhospitable places on earth. The first Range Rover was launched in 1970. The remarkable vehicle combined the capability of a Land Rover with the comfort and performance of an on-road car. And so a revolutionary new sector was created: the luxury 4x4. That said, “luxury” then was relative to what had gone before. Rubber flooring and vinyl seats meant you could still wash mud out of the interior with a garden hose and a stiff brush. Neither of these would be much welcomed in the latest
Range Rover Sport. The essence of modern luxury, it has comfort, elegance, the finest materials, every conceivable driver aid and opulent options packaged within a chassis that’s true to the original Land Rover concept of being able to take you to almost anywhere on earth. The original Range Rover Sport gained much of its strength from being based on the heavy Discovery chassis. The new car has made huge gains in performance and economy by being based on an adapted version of the bigger Range Rover’s aluminium platform. The engineers have also reduced weight throughout (by up to 420kg) allowing a lower, sportier SUV that sets a new benchmark for ride quality. Although the old Range Rover Sport could be coaxed into delivering decent cross-country speed, it was never a relaxing ride on anything other than dead straight roads – bouncing, rolling and pitching until passengers begged for mercy. By contrast, in the new Sport, active anti-roll bars, torque vectoring and all manner of other electronic driver aids that most of us will never begin to understand ensure that, however twisty the road gets, you’re sent on your way with confidence. Passengers can watch TV, listen to music (via the 23 speakers or on their personal headphones) or read a magazine whatever the road conditions; this is truly club-class cruising. The list of standard features across the range includes systems that, until recently, would only have been options on the most expensive luxury saloons. Automatic headlights and windscreen wipers, twozone climate control, heated front seats, DAB audio HARRODS MAN / VOLUME TWO
113 LIFESTYLE
• “Both cars actually have the same aim: to make their drivers’ lives simpler – but they do it in different ways” •
system, voice control of just about everything – the list is endless, and they all work seamlessly together. Even with four passengers and vast quantities of luggage, the 503bhp 5.0-litre supercharged petrol V8 engine means the Sport can also pull off the remarkable feat of transforming itself into a very fast sports car should you wish, achieving an extraordinary 0-60mph time of 5 seconds – acceleration that will leave most performance cars standing at the lights, wondering what happened. A firm prod of the “loud pedal” is just that – the eight-speed paddle-shift gearbox instantly clicks down a couple of notches and the supercharged V8 comes to life with a ferocious NASCAR growl. It’s addictive – and a great way to drain the fuel tank in minutes. A much cleverer way to drive is by using the brilliant “adaptive cruise” system, automatically disengaging and re-engaging the cruise as you get too close to other vehicles, or they move out of the way. It takes some trust to believe this will work; but once gained, that trust is never lost – and there can be no safer or more relaxing way to undertake a long cross-country journey. Even driving sensibly, a few years ago a car of this size and performance would be lucky to deliver double-digit mpg figures – our touring average was a respectable 24-25mpg. So it’s a luxury saloon and a sports car. But what’s the point of a Range Rover Sport if you’re not going to drive somewhere other cars can’t go? On a remarkably sunny weekend, the opportunities for finding mud appeared limited, but then the Hay Literary Festival came up trumps. Heavy overnight HARRODS MAN / VOLUME TWO
rain turned the limited parking space near the entrance into a quagmire. There was the perfect sign beside the road, pointing towards the muddiest area of all: “4x4 vehicles only”. With no further encouragement needed, the Sport drove through a mud bath half a metre deep as if it weren’t there. A small boy watched and took a photo, clearly far more impressed by this display of engineering brilliance than by the literary giants his parents had brought him to see. The only possible downside was a large amount of mud splattered on the previously gleaming bodywork. It was easy to conclude that this simply added a degree of authenticity. We live in an era in which the pace of progress is relentless. And Range Rover’s new model, billed as “the ultimate sports SUV”, epitomises that progress. In many respects this car has left the original Land Rover concept a long way behind. After all, the Series One was based on a philosophy of simplicity and the new Range Rover Sport is, without a doubt, a hugely complex piece of engineering. But this is to miss the point. The philosophy hasn’t really changed at all. The world around us has. Both cars actually have the same aim: to make their drivers’ lives simpler. But they do it in different ways. In 1948 that meant designing a car that allowed its driver to fix the engine in a field. In 2014, it means designing a car that can simply be every car its owner could want. Certainly it’s a technologically complex car, but how much simpler is it to just own a Range Rover Sport instead of having to buy, garage and maintain an off-roader, a luxury saloon and a sports car? HMN
114 THE END
Bear Grylls
THE FINAL WORD Turning 40 has done nothing to dampen the spirits of Britain’s best-known boy scout. Bear Grylls explains why he’ll never grow up enough to stop doing handstands BY TOM LOXLEY PHOTOGRAPH BEAR GRYLLS
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t’s a dangerous business visiting Britain’s leading adventurer, a man who has climbed Everest, crossed the Atlantic in a bathtub of a boat, crushed three vertebrae after his parachute ripped at 16,000 feet, and inspired a generation to live a little. “My six-year-old has a 40-inch razor-sharp machete!” laughs Bear Grylls, proving that – like father, like son – risk runs in the family. “A journalist came to my home the other day and got a shock. He went [impersonates stuttering, scared voice] ‘That, that, that… child!’ And I could see Huckleberry, dragging this machete around... he’s bloody good with it. He’s cut himself a bunch of times.” Isn’t it a bit scary, even for a man whose stock in trade is danger, when one of his children (he has three young boys: Huckleberry, Marmaduke and Jesse) is walking around their home in Wales with a potentially lethal instrument designed for use in the Amazon jungle, not the Llyn Peninsula? “The thing is, you might cut yourself. The last time he cut himself, he came in with blood pouring everywhere, but you know what? He’s never cut himself again. You just have to teach him how to use it.” Bear – real name Edward Michael Grylls, who was christened Bear as a baby by his sister Lara – turned 40 in June. And he has been teaching people how to do stuff for two decades: first in the army, then on television, and latterly as a somewhat unlikely Chief Scout. Specifically, he has taught us how to survive in the wild. Which begs the obvious question: why? Why would we need to know how to shelter inside the carcass of a camel? “If you think about it, we have developed the most ridiculously brilliant ways of surviving, from fire to war to food to hunting – ingenious things that no animal could invent. And it’s amazing. But what a
tragedy if, in one generation, we lose our ability to survive? If I asked someone in the street, ‘Do you know how to make a fire?’ They’d go, ‘What are you talking about? Of course I don’t.’ The thing is, you’re not going to need to know how to start a fire in modern life. But it’s a good feeling, as a man, knowing that if the going got tough, I would know how to look after myself. It’s not all about the skills; it’s about the mental resourcefulness to be able to figure it out.” Which at least explains the camel’s carcass. What would he save if his house were on fire? “Beyond my children and my wife, Shara, it would be the SAS plaque I was awarded after I left the regiment, or maybe my family’s old school reports.” No doubt his own school reports would make interesting reading. “You learn absolutely... totally... it’s meaningless. I went to Eton, but if I had to write the UK’s education curriculum for every kid in this country, it wouldn’t be Latin and maths, it would be teamwork, leadership, how to be healthy, how to be fit – and that would be it. Key subjects that I’ve had to learn the hard way.” So what does he want to be when he grows up? “It was never on my list of goals to grow up, to stop doing handstands, to start dressing better. My goal is to be able to encourage other people to go for it – to make a few mistakes and come home with a few scars and a few stories. Have fun, live a bit. How can you achieve your dreams if you can’t fail? All these things are what make us human, and when you limit people by saying, ‘dress right and look smart and behave like this, and do that’, you kind of limit life, you know?” HMN Tom Loxley is Executive Editor of the Radio Times. He has also written for GQ and The Independent
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