Harrods Magazine December 2014

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015

DECEMBER/JANUARY 2015

ALL THE WORLD’S A STAGE

ALL THE WORLD’S A STAGE STAR DRESSES • SCENE-STEALING GIFTS SUITS FOR LEADING MEN • AND LOVE... IT’S IN THE AIR

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MAGAZINE DIRECTOR OF CREATIVE MARKETING DEBORAH BEE DIRECTOR OF CREATIVE OPERATIONS BETH HODDER ART DIRECTOR BARNEY PICKARD PUBLISHER DAWN HALL

EDITORIAL

EDITOR JAN MASTERS ACTING ASSOCIATE EDITOR GUY WOODWARD FASHION FEATURES EDITOR LINDSAY MACPHERSON LIFESTYLE EDITOR AMY BROOMFIELD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS LEWIS FIRTH, MARIA MILANO ASSISTANT BEAUTY EDITOR REBECCA BAIO CHIEF SUB-EDITORS LISA HILLMAN, NICOLETTE THOMPSON SENIOR SUB-EDITORS CAROLINE HUNT, JO MATTOCK

ART

DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR SONJA BURRI ART EDITOR NATALIE BOO MOSQUERA SENIOR DESIGNER RACHEL ESCUDIER JUNIOR DESIGNER GINA HOLLINGSWORTH ART ASSISTANT JENNIFER KAY PRODUCER EMILY SELLERS PHOTOGRAPHY BOOKINGS EDITOR WENDY HINTON PICTURE ASSISTANT KIAAN ORANGE PHOTOGRAPHY BOOKINGS ADMINISTRATOR LAIDE PITAN

FASHION

FASHION EDITOR VICTORIA GAIGER DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR POPPY ROCK SENIOR FASHION ASSISTANT BECKY BRANCH JUNIOR FASHION ASSISTANT OLIVIA HALSALL

DIGITAL

DIGITAL OPERATIONS MANAGER ARNAUD BURTIN DIGITAL MARKETING MANAGER CLAUDIA ORRELL HEAD OF DIGITAL DESIGN BOB DEVSI MOTION GRAPHICS & VIDEO DESIGNER JAIME RIVERA JUNIOR DIGITAL DESIGNER TAK YEUNG CHEUNG DIGITAL SUB-EDITOR JANICE MORTON

PUBLISHING

MANAGING EDITOR SUZY CHAPMAN ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER RACHEL MONCUR PUBLISHING ASSISTANT PHOEBE FISHER PA TO DIRECTOR OF CREATIVE MARKETING & DIRECTOR OF CREATIVE OPERATIONS

MADALAINE MCCARTHY PRODUCTION

PRODUCTION MANAGER HAYLEY YOUNG PRODUCTION ASSISTANT CAMILLA JOSEPHS

HARRODS STORE IMAGE

GROUP DIRECTOR OF CORPORATE AFFAIRS KATHARINE WITTY DIRECTOR OF CUSTOMER RELATIONSHIP MANAGEMENT AND PERSONAL SHOPPING CHIARA

VARESE

HARRODS MEDIA

MEDIA SALES DIRECTOR GUY CHESTON HEAD OF MEDIA SALES CHARLOTTE MARKS ACTING HEAD OF MEDIA SALES AND MEDIA SALES MANAGER, HOME CHRIS MEDIA SALES MANAGER NICOLE IVASCHENKO MEDIA PROMOTIONS PROJECT EXECUTIVE LARA KELLY

SWEET

MEDIA MARKETING MANAGER KATIE ARNAUD MEDIA MARKETING EXECUTIVE LAURA PARSONS DIGITAL MARKETING EXECUTIVE MEI WILSON MEDIA PLANNING & OPERATIONS MANAGER CASSANDRA ASHFORD MEDIA PLANNING & OPERATIONS ASSISTANT JESSICA OWEN MARKETING & MEDIA SALES MANAGER, BEAUTY & HOME VIRGINIE DUIGOU MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVE, BEAUTY LOUISE FISH MARKETING EXECUTIVE, BEAUTY ABIGAIL SEKWALOR MARKETING ASSISTANT, BEAUTY & HOME EMMA EDMONDS MEDIA SALES MANAGER, FASHION & FASHION ACCESSORIES SOPHIE READ MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVES, FASHION STELLA BUBEL, OLIVIA YOUNG MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVE, FASHION ACCESSORIES LAURA MONTIGIANI MEDIA SALES ASSISTANT, FASHION GABRIELLA INWANG MEDIA SALES MANAGER, FINE JEWELLERY, FINE WATCHES AND LUXURY JEWELLERY LUCINDA ANDREWS MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVE, FINE JEWELLERY, FINE WATCHES AND LUXURY JEWELLERY HARSHEEL BAINS MEDIA SALES ASSISTANT, FINE JEWELLERY, FINE WATCHES AND LUXURY JEWELLERY ELISE HAWKINS MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVE, FOOD HALLS, RESTAURANTS AND WINE SHOP NATHALIE NÖTZOLD MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVES, HOME ADELE BROUSSE, HASHIM JAVAID

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117,776 Period: 1st January 2014 to 30th June 2014

EDITOR’ S LE T TER

It’s Christmas. And that means showtime, as the spotlight falls on all things super-glamorous.

Main photo and cover image Anders Overgaard

It starts with the striking dress on the cover, a one-off design for Harrods by Stella McCartney. Among several designer creations in our magical festive windows, it’s worn by a glittering fairy in a giant snow globe as part of The Land of Make Believe. To garner your own stage presence, there’s more than a touch of theatre in our fashion story: gowns adorned with fabulous feathers, intricate beading and swirling silk skirts; the sort of starry dresses that instantly hit the mark.

The seasonal mood extends to menswear, with suits that turn traditional tux detailing on its head for dashes of individuality. Even men’s knitwear is all about luxury, albeit in a laid-back kind of way.

Come the big day, if you’d love to unwrap a new bag we have an irresistible array, and if you’re considering fragrance, there’s no denying love is in the air – in the form of the most beautiful scents around.

Meanwhile, the Never Mind the Baubles game on the Harrods Magazine app lets you dress your virtual tree in show-stopping style.

You could win a Harrods Christmas tree plus a £500 gift card if you share a picture of your creation on Facebook or Twitter before 5th December, but you can carry on playing the game after the 5th just for fun, giving you plenty more opportunities to hit new tree-trimming heights before you deck the boughs for real. We also help you discover the best bubbles – well, where would any celebration be without Champagne? – and, having done so, raise a glass to wish you all season’s greetings and a Happy New Year.

Jan Masters Editor

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CONTENTS

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NEW THIS MONTH 35 TOP 20 Launches, special offers and events for December and January 39 ZEITGEIST What everyone’s talking about this month 45 MOVING ON UP They’re young, they’re talented and they’re destined for great things. Meet the new stars coming to a screen near you COVER

Photographer ANDERS OVERGAARD; Fashion Editor VICTORIA GAIGER; Hair TIM CRESPIN at Sarah Laird; Make-up ARIEL YEH using Sisley; Nails DAISY HASSAN; Model LOURDES COTERON at Models1 wearing Stella McCartney dress £22,000; Annoushka single earring £850

December/January 2015

FASHION 53 CARRY IT OFF Characterised by bold shapes, tongue-incheek fun and fine detailing, this season’s bags make a style statement 60 TECHNICOLOUR DREAM GIRL She’s the Serbian-born designer who seduced the British fashion industry with her elegant silhouettes and eye-popping colours. Now Roksanda Ilincic is on a roll 64 TREND WATCH: CAPES There’s a new breed of superhero in town as the age of the cape arrives with a flourish 66 WOMENSWEAR NEWS USA meets Paris in Kenzo’s Resort 2015 line; Matthew Williamson’s butterfly-print dress coat; the inaugural Tomas Maier/ Kering collaboration; sleepwear designer Olivia von Halle’s favourite things 70 WOMENSWEAR NEWS Stylish capes and ponchos from Burberry Prorsum; IWC takes its classic Portofino watch to a new level; Elie Saab’s Rothko-inspired gowns; an interview with Amrapali’s CEO Tarang Arora 74 FOLK TALE Whimsical florals and painterly prints bring primitive prettiness to the season.

Just add bunny earrings 76 CHILDRENSWEAR NEWS Mara Hoffman adopts a wildlife theme; Merrythought’s exclusive mohair bear; story-based outfits from Marie-Chantal; Harrods Handwriting Competition winners; 1960s-inspired bags by Gucci 78 MAKE IT SNAPPY In metallic-toned crocodile and alligator skin, compact clutches give a gleaming edge to eveningwear. Grab one and go 80 JEWELLERY NEWS Asymmetric flair in the Meira T Winter Collection 2014; Monica Vinader offsets tanzanite with diamonds; Carolina Bucci’s new Twister Luxe bracelet; an interview with Carat* founder Scott Thompson

156 83 SET TO BLOOM Glistening gems, from fire opals and rough-cut rubies to sapphires and diamonds, flourish in Christmas bouquets 87 MENSWEAR NEWS DSquared2’s rugged approach to AW14; horological innovation by Zenith; bags with a work ethic from Alexander McQueen; The Grooming Guru brushes up on beards 88 THREE WAYS WITH EVENINGWEAR Classic formalwear is reconfigured to suit AW14’s refined mood 91 CELEBRITY SANTA What does the perfect Christmas shopping list look like? Four busy young actors dream up theirs, packed with inventive ideas 97 OVER THE RAINBOW Valentino’s 2015 cruise collection is previewed in the Brompton Road windows – in glorious technicolour 100 TREAD LIGHTLY Vibrant colours are finely balanced in Valentino’s psychedelic sandals, ready to put a zing in your step 104 THE DANCE GOES ON Fabulous feathers, swirling silk skirts and delicate jewelled detailing create a sense of seasonal theatre. Get ready to steal the limelight 114 SENSE OF BALANCE Bring some off-kilter charm to evening attire with surprising textures, touches of shine and black-tie detailing. Minus the black tie 124 THE COMFORT ZONE Super-luxe yarns and chunky knits give the Christmas sweater new-found cred

BEAUTY 133 HIGH FIVE Editor Jan Masters reveals her top five beauty treats for December and January 146 BEAUTY NEWS Fragrances from Jovoy, Thomas Kosmala and Nasomatto; relaxing room candles by Dolce & Gabbana and Fornasetti; energising sprays from Caudalie and Herra Hair Care; a new anti-ageing formula by Rodial; Dr Sebagh’s rejuvenating skincare set; Miss Heaven Scent 153 FIELDS OF DREAMS It all comes down to reaping what you sow, and from land (purchased) to lab technology (perfected), Chanel has it covered 156 ALL THAT GLISTENS Gold. Think of it as adornment for the skin.

An accent. An accessory for radiating charm

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FOOD, INTERIORS & LIFESTYLE 165 STARTER’S ORDERS As the quintessential Christmas Day treat, superior smoked salmon is truly something to savour 170 FIZZ THE SEASON Smoked salmon, plus Champagne and some tasty accompaniments, makes Christmas extra-merry 172 FOOD FANATIC An early convert to the art of cooking, Chef of the Season Tom Aikens can’t keep out of the kitchen, whether in-store or at home 175 THE CHOSEN FEW Selecting a Christmas cheeseboard is an art. Creamy Stiltons, strong Cheddars, or decadent truffle-infused Bries: what will make the cut?

179 RISING TO THE TOP Creamy vintage Champagne isn’t the only great wine to enjoy at Christmas, when port, sherry and Sauternes all come to the party 182 FOOD NEWS Patisserie with a salmon twist; the latest incumbents at pop-up Italian restaurant Stelle di Stelle; Melitheon Greek honey – natural and nutritious; seasonal produce 185 ROCKIN’ AROUND THE CHRISTMAS TREE Beautiful decorations not only conjure magic this Christmas; they’re keepers for generations to come 189 INTERIORS NEWS Lasvit’s Uovo chandelier; Indian-inspired tableware from Bethan Gray; countdown to Christmas with the Wedgwood Advent House; play, share and win with app game Never Mind the Baubles 190 LIFESTYLE NEWS Fairmont’s tailored spa packages; astrological insight from Carolyne Faulkner; quiet and efficient juicing from Kuvings; five books to help expand your horizons in 2015 193 BITTERSWEET SYMPHONY Stately and stylish, Vienna is a city steeped in history, music, art and, of course, schnitzel 198 MY STYLE: ELLA CATLIFF Having launched her blog, La Petite Anglaise, while studying at Central Saint Martins, the super-stylish Brit is now part of a generation re-energising the fashion industry HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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3H\UJOLZ ZWLJPHS VăLYZ HUK L]LU[Z MVY +LJLTILY 1HU\HY` 1. Chanel Collier Perles de Jour Based on Coco Chanel’s personal collection, the Perles de Jour necklace is created from diamonds and 47 South Sea pearls.

Price on request. The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor 2. Jason Wu’s Hugo Boss debut For his Hugo Boss debut, Jason Wu transformed suiting fabrics into tailored coats with sophisticated silhouettes. Coat £530. International Designer, First Floor 3. Eskandar kimonos With a passion for travel, Eskandar looked East for inspiration for its new cover-ups. Kimono £995. Designer Classics, First Floor 4. Panerai Radiomir 1940 The Radiomir 1940 Chronograph Oro Bianco watch has a crystal porthole at the back so the wearer can admire the intricate movements. £39,700. The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor 5. Tom Ford Icon bag The Icon bag from Tom Ford can close to either conceal or reveal its golden hardware. £8,620. Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor 6. Harry Winston Zalium jewellery In a new collection for men, Harry Winston has incorporated Zalium, an alloy also used in the aeronautical industry. Cuff links £4,050.

The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor 7. Fendi mink bolero With an in-house fur atelier, Fendi is making waves in craftsmanship. The exclusive mink bolero features an orchid symbol. Bolero £13,400 and dress £2,100. International Designer, First Floor 8. Ralph Lauren Black Label Ralph Lauren offers monochrome sportswear alongside sharply tailored formalwear.

Jacket, part of suit, £1,595. Men’s Luxury Collections, Ground Floor 9. Missoni Pop Art SS15 Pre-collection With Pop Art as a reference point, the latest Missoni collection is fantastically graphic and vibrant. Sweater £330 and trousers £725.

International Designer, First Floor

10. Lancôme Absolue L’Extrait Luxury Set Showcasing its Elixir and Serum, Lancôme’s Absolue L’Extrait Luxury Set includes a popup mirror. £550; exclusive to Harrods.

The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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11. Mulberry mini Lily bag Downsized for the party season, the Lily bag has been given a bespoke element: mini padlocks that can be monogrammed. £350; exclusive to Harrods. Luxury Accessories, Lower Ground Floor 12. Lanvin 125th anniversary bags In celebration of Lanvin’s 125th birthday, Alber Elbaz has designed three new bags – the Lanvin Sugar, Tape and Tribale – reflecting his Winter 2014 ready-towear collection. Tribale bag £1,625.

International Designer, First Floor 13. Vacheron Constantin haute horlogerie Horology meets industry at Vacheron Constantin; the Métiers d’Art Mécaniques Ajourées’ openwork movement echoes the arches of railway stations. £56,050.

The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor 14. Saint Laurent womenswear Music was the influence behind Hedi Slimane’s latest collection for Saint Laurent.

He channelled Woodstock, with maxidresses and suede. Dress £3,275 and waistcoat £2,575. International Designer, First Floor 15. Christian Dior children’s party clothes Christian Dior said, “Parties are recommended and necessary.” So the house’s latest mini frocks and coats are fun and bold.

Coat from £480. Children’s Designer Apparel, Fourth Floor 16. Brioni Japan-inspired silk suits Inspired by founder Gaetano Savini’s 1963 diaries from his visit to Japan, Brioni silk suits feature birds and foliage. Suit £3,850.

Men’s Luxury Collections, Ground Floor 17. Givenchy leather accessories True to Riccardo Tisci’s aesthetic, the latest accessories from Givenchy celebrate urban chic. Pouch £365. Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor 18. Guerlain Rouge G lipstick Taking inspiration from the Russian Ballet, Guerlain’s Christmas Collection includes a red Rouge G Lipstick with a high-shine finish. £31.50. The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor 19. Harrods’ Dear Santa service Hint-dropping just got a tech makeover. Email your wish list along with your partner’s email address to santa@harrods.com; Santa will then nudge him or her towards the perfect gifts.

20. New restaurant Chai Wu Acclaimed chef Ian Pengelley will be serving up Pan-Asian cuisine in his in-store restaurant, Chai Wu. From mid-January, Fifth Floor

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PEOPLE & PLACES in the air in December and January BY

Portrait Jean Baptiste Mondino

FASHION Alexandre Vauthier “My couture collections are laboratories for ideas,” says Alexandre Vauthier, the self-proclaimed “anarchist punk” of Paris’ haute couture scene. The designer doesn’t only deal in flights of fancy though. “When my fabrics and techniques have been fine-tuned I transfer them to my ready-to-wear collections,” he explains. The Parisian trained with Thierry Mugler and Jean Paul Gaultier, before launching his eponymous ready-to-wear label and couture line in 2009. Since then Vauthier’s craftsmanship and experimental fabrics have earned him industry plaudits, while his super-sexy aesthetic and body-skimming silhouettes have attracted high-profile followers: Beyoncé and Julianne Moore are both fans of his designs. For AW14, Vauthier – a polymath whose creative endeavours have included music, interior design and perfume – has collaborated with performancewear label Pyrenex on a capsule collection, while his ready-to-wear line features bustier dresses with an unconventional take on braiding. “It was a lot of work to manipulate the fabric, but I love the final result,” he says. “It feels futuristic.” Available from Eveningwear, First Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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Alice and the White Rabbit

DANCE Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland

It’s not just Alice who disappears down the rabbit hole but the audience too, thanks to the brilliance and imagination of Christopher Wheeldon’s ballet from Lewis Carroll’s tale. The choreography is as dazzling as the production, which incorporates amazing sets, puppetry and digital projection – a seasonal treat and the perfect alternative to The Nutcracker.

From 6th December to 16th January 2015 at the Royal Opera House

THEATRE Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown Previously, Pedro Almodóvar had been a cultish art-house film director, but with the delirious comedy Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown in 1988, the Spaniard broke through to the mainstream. Now the whirlwind farce has been adapted for the stage as a musical, already Tony-nominated in its Broadway incarnation. It stars that sublime comic talent Tamsin Greig, whose character is at the heart of a complex web of lovers breaking up and making up in late-1980s Madrid. Full of style, humour and pizzazz, it’s a tonic to warm up the winter nights. From 20th December at the Playhouse Theatre Show jumping at The London International Horse Show

Monroe, with the cast and crew of The Misfits, at a casino, 1960

The screen siren whose allure endured far beyond her own lifetime, Marilyn Monroe also drew the fascinated attention of the most brilliant artists of her era. Images of Marilyn showcases the work of, among others, Eve Arnold, the pioneering photographer whose pictures find a tender sensitivity in the film star. The candid photos Arnold took of Monroe are the product of a friendship between the two that lasted until the actress’s tragically premature death. By contrast, the silk-screen prints that Andy Warhol created shortly after she died depict less a fragile human being than an outright icon, in a captivating exploration of the image we know so well. Throughout December at Halcyon Gallery, Second Floor

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EVENT The London International Horse Show Brace yourself to be astonished by the display of equestrian skills at the annual London International Horse Show. The traditions of dressage, show jumping and driving have been honed to perfection by the competitors, but they’re only part of the action lined up for your entertainment. Look out for the horseback courage of the daredevil Ukrainian Cossacks and the matchless discipline of the Metropolitan Police riders and their mounts.

The Kennel Club also gets in on the action with a competition highlighting canine agility and acrobatics. From 16th to 22nd December at Olympia

Marilyn Monroe Eve Arnold, Magnum Photos

EXHIBITION Images of Marilyn

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Moving on UP

They’re young, they’re talented and they’re destined for great things. Meet the new stars coming to a screen near you BY

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HEIDA REED

Age: 24 You’ll know her from: One Day and Silent Witness.

Took up acting because: “When I was 12, I saw Singin’ in the Rain at the theatre. After the show, I remember feeling euphoric.

I knew right then that I wanted to make people feel the same way I did that night.”

First job: “One Day, the film of the book by David Nicholls. It was inspiring to work with Anne Hathaway and Jim Sturgess. They were so efficient and quick. And I was besotted with him!”

Inspired by: “Marion Cotillard and her husband, Guillaume Canet. I’m passionate about French cinema in general, and she’s so beautiful and incredible.”

Pinch-me moment: “Playing Jean Reno’s daughter in French TV series Jo.” Three words that best describe you: “Honest. Extreme. Open.”

Next starring in: Poldark, a BBC period drama based on books by Winston Graham.

Chanel dress £5,680 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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SEBASTIAN DE SOUZA

Age: 21 You’ll know him from: Skins and The Borgias.

Took up acting because: “I acted at school. When I was 16, an agent came to see me in a play and signed me up.”

First job: “Skins. It was like an awakening in many respects, because there were eight of us teenagers living together in a hotel in Bristol for two years. I went straight from boarding school to this other experience. It was a big coming of age.”

Inspired by: “I have so many inspirations, from my dad to Tom Stoppard.”

Pinch-me moment: “I’ve written a film called Kids in Love and I asked the actor Will Poulter to read it. He said, ‘This is the best thing I’ve read all year.’”

Three words that best describe you: “Over. The. Top.” Starring next in: Kids in Love with Will Poulter and Cara Delevingne.

Burberry Prorsum coat £1,995; Neil Barrett T-shirt from a selection; Louis Vuitton trousers £720; Borsalino hat £240; Jimmy Choo shoes from a selection

VALENE KANE

Age: 27 You’ll know her from: The Fading Light, Jump and The Fall.

Took up acting because: “I remember watching Gone with the Wind and thinking, I’m going to be Scarlett O’Hara when I grow up. I think I was a precocious child!”

First job: “A play at the National Youth Theatre called 20 Cigarettes. Almost every single person in that company is still a dear, dear friend, which is lovely – and rare!”

Inspired by: “Women writers. My main love and inspiration is Anaïs Nin. She opened my mind about life and what it is to be a woman.”

Pinch-me moment: “The first day filming the TV series The Fall. I was sitting next to Gillian Anderson and she leaned over and said, ‘You’re very good.’”

Three words that best describe you: “Loyal. Contrary. Passionate.”

Starring next in: 71 with Jack O’Connell, and Frankenstein with Daniel Radcliffe and James McAvoy.

Emilio Pucci dress £8,550

ROSIE DAY

Age: 19 You’ll know her from: The Seasoning House and Misfits.

Took up acting because: “My sister was an actress and was in something called Hope and Glory. I was five, and they needed a little sister for her. I remember the casting director crouching down and saying, ‘Rose, will you do some acting for us?’”

First job: “Hope and Glory. Then a play called Summerfolk by Trevor Nunn at the National Theatre. Some of my earliest memories are of being carried around the theatre by him.”

Inspired by: “I’m the biggest Kate Winslet fan.”

Pinch-me moment: “When Kate Winslet came to see a play I was in called Spur of the Moment at The Royal Court Theatre.

She came backstage and I basically just shrieked in her face.”

Three words that best describe you: “Sweet. Feisty. Observant.”

Starring next in: Howl with Ed Speleers and Shauna Macdonald.

Alberta Ferretti dress £1,199

TARON EGERTON

Age: 23 You’ll know him from: Lewis and The Smoke.

Took up acting because: “I liked to mess around in class and do silly voices.

This felt like a healthy outlet for that type of behaviour.”

First job: “The Last of the Haussmans at the National Theatre. I screamed when I got the part. It was such a buzz to go from RADA and then be sharing the stage with Julie Walters and Helen McCrory.”

Inspired by: “The late, great Philip Seymour Hoffman and, from this side of the pond, Gary Oldman. They both have that natural, honest charisma without having to force it.”

Pinch-me moment: “Probably the first time I walked into rehearsals for Kingsman: The Secret Service and sat between Colin Firth and Mark Strong.”

Three words that best describe you: “Loud. Happy. Welsh.”

Starring next in: Kingsman: The Secret Service and Testament of Youth with Kit Harington and Alicia Vikander.

Zadig & Voltaire coat £440; Balenciaga T-shirt £205; The Kooples jeans £130

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DIARMAID MURTAGH

Age: 32 You’ll know him from: Camelot, Vikings and The Monuments Men. Took up acting because: “While at university, I stumbled across the drama society. Slowly but surely it came to light that this was a real passion of mine.”

First job: “Seacht, which is Irish for ‘seven’. It was the Irish-language equivalent of Skins.”

Inspired by: “Liam Neeson.

He’s a big lad, like me.”

Pinch-me moment: “Working on The Monuments Men, for sure. George Clooney was the director and my fellow actors – Bill Murray, Matt Damon and John Goodman – are all lifelong favourites.”

Three words that best describe you: “Passionate. Driven. Considerate.”

Starring next in: Good People with James Franco and Kate Hudson.

Burberry London suit £1,495 and tie £115; Gieves & Hawkes shirt £129 Niki Browes is Associate Editor of InStyle Magazine

Hair and Grooming RANELLE CHAPMAN at David Artists using Bumble and Bumble Make-up LIZ DAXAUER at Caren using Givenchy Photographer’s Assistant SAM COPELAND Digital Operator JOSEPH SERESIN Available from Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor; International Designer, First Floor; and harrods.com X WATCH Download the Harrods Magazine app to see our rising stars in conversation

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M U S T- H AV E

THE LATEST LOOKS FROM THE INTERNATIONAL CATWALKS

Credits Catwalking Chanel TK Images

CARRY IT OFF

Characterised by bold shapes, tongue-in-cheek fun and fine detailing, this season’s bags make a style statement BY

Chanel small flap bag £2,125 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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V lentino

Embe

Dolce & Gabbana evening bag £1,660

Ethan K Bumblebee minaudière £3,200

Christian Dior evening bag £4,700

Valentino evening bag £2,175

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Victoria Beckham bag £880

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Burberry Prorsum bag £2,995

Stella McCartney Zip clutch £510

As accessories increasingly fall into step with catwalk collections – look to Valentino’s co-ordinating clutches (top left) for a case in point – a new focus on fabrics is emerging. Consider the slouchy bouclé bags that Victoria Beckham cut from the same cloth as her coats. And, while not technically a material, Stella McCartney’s zips owe their origins to apparel; at her AW14 show, they made an unexpected decoration on both tailoring and totes. There were more surprises in store at Burberry Prorsum’s bohemian Bloomsbury-Set-inspired show. Here, Christopher Bailey took his cues from rugs: his bags featured buttons, geometric tufted velvet and tapestry. Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler have made their name by using experimental fabrics – they’ve developed their own technique to laser-shred silk, for example. This season, their flecked clutches are made from a canvas inspired by carpet padding.

Proenza Schouler clutch £525

Credits TK Images

Valentino evening bag £3,280

When the world’s oldest handbag was unearthed earlier this year, it was notable not simply for its age, but also because the 700-year-old brass clutch, inlaid with silver and gold, wouldn’t have looked out of place in contemporary collections – proof that beautiful craftsmanship doesn’t date. While they might not boast a staying power of seven centuries, many of AW14’s evening accessories deserve heirloom status for their artisanship. Ethan K goes the extra mile for his minaudières (polishing his alligator skins with an agate stone mix) and, this season, his exotic-skin bags feature fine-jewellery-style clasps and semiprecious stones. There were bejewelled bags at Raf Simons’ Christian Dior show, and metalwork was a focal point at Dolce & Gabbana’s folklore-inspired accessories collection: the designers created ornate gold-toned locks and door-knockers, then studded them onto snake-skin and devoré evening bags. At Valentino, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli’s modus operandi of modernist austerity coupled with extreme decoration lent itself particularly well to this trend. At their AW14 show, models wore no jewellery: instead they let their lavish matching bags – featuring hummingbird and butterfly motifs – steal the spotlight.

FA S H I O N

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Mark Cross small Grace box bag £1,565

Valentino Jason Lloyd-Evans

Chloé Dalston clutch £1,190

Is black’s uncontested reign as designers’ default bag colour finally in doubt? Less obvious than neutrals and easier to wear than SS14’s neon brights, earthy colours found a renewed appreciation in the AW14 and resort collections. Leading designers debuted pieces in a range of autumnal shades; every hue from burnt sugar to bronze, conker brown and fawn was well represented. The new accessories make fitting accompaniments to the nostalgic Sixties-inflected designs that dominated the catwalks. At Frida Giannini’s AW14 Gucci show, models in minidresses and animal-print peacoats carried nutbrown crocodile bags or slung on slouchy bordeaux-coloured hobos. There was a similarly insouciant attitude at Chloé, where the label’s butterscotch-brown Dalston clutch was a standout.

Even evening bags aren’t exempt; at Miu Miu’s modish resort collection, espresso-toned drawstring bags were an enticing, if unexpected, proposition for after-dark dressing.

If the rise of the micro tote has taught designers anything, it’s that almost everything is rendered more desirable when downsized to diminutive proportions. At Nicolas Ghesquière’s eagerly awaited debut at Louis Vuitton, it was the label’s traditional luggage-style trunks that got the Lilliputian treatment. His miniature Petites Malles – dinky cross-body bags with skinny straps – were the star accessories in a show that even the most cynical critic had to admit was one of the most agenda-setting of the season. Over at Dolce & Gabbana, pint-sized, top-handle padlocked trunks embellished with Baroque-style flora and fauna chimed perfectly with the designers’ fantastical fairy-tale vision of 12th-century Sicily. For anyone concerned that this trend might be short-lived, the flourishing fortunes of the recently resurrected Massachusetts heritage brand Mark Cross act as a reassuring testament to the enduring charm of mini trunks. The label’s ladylike Grace box bag – inspired by the overnight case carried by Grace Kelly in Alfred Hitchcock’s film Rear Window – was created in 1954, and the scaled-down version is the brand’s biggest seller today.

Gucci

Dolce & Gabbana mini trunk £2,800

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton Petite Malle trunk £3,100

Miu Miu drawstring bag £1,080

Brownie points Gucci hobo £1,980

Gucci bag £2,140

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M U S T- H AV E Anya Hindmarch Frosties Imperial clutch £995

Charlotte Olympia Take Me Away bag £765

Chanel milk carton minaudière £2,775

Any

Stella McCartney Superhero chain bag £615

They might be the products of superlative craftsmanship, but the accessories in the new collections don’t take themselves too seriously. Consider Karl Lagerfeld’s irreverent supermarketinspired epic for Chanel: the 2.55 was served up shrink-wrapped in a cardboard case; metallic leather minaudières were shaped like milk cartons; and chain bags were emblazoned with bright PopArt prints in a nod to Andy Warhol. Quirk isn’t a realm in which Stella McCartney often operates, but the personality-packed pieces from her Resort 2015 Collection might be an exception to the rule. Here, McCartney appliquéd metallics, glitter and faux python (made from renewable natural resources, of course) to create superhero faces on pouch-style clutches. Charlotte Olympia aped Chinese takeaway boxes with her origami-fold bags. Anya Hindmarch used a similar recipe for success, riffing on British household items and groceries to produce Tony the Tiger totes, custard cream and Bourbon biscuit bags, and cerealbox clutches rendered in lizard and python skin. “I wanted to do something that was beautifully made, but also quite mad,” Hindmarch explained. Mission accomplished.

Ch el

Anya Hindmarch Custard Cream clutch £995

ind

ch

P

Mulberry Kensington bag £1,200

Balenciaga blue croc cable bag £8,650 and grey cable bag £1,215

lenci

Céline Orb bag £1,550

Victoria Beckham tote £1,100

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As an erstwhile devotee of the overwrought “it” bags typical of the early noughties, it’s ironic that Victoria Beckham has built her brand on bags that exert a more subtle allure.

Her pieces are devoid of any ostentatious hardware, obvious design signatures and – save for a tiny engraved stamp on their clasps – identifiable branding. But Beckham isn’t the only standard bearer for stealth: Céline’s Phoebe Philo has always opted for lower-key luxury. The latest addition to her AW14 accessories line-up, the purist, palate-cleansing Orb bag follows the same template, with five oversized press-studs its sole embellishments. There’s also an understated mood at Mulberry, where the newest launches in the mainline collection include the Kensington (a modern interpretation of the drawstring satchel) and the equally inconspicuous Tessie.

Always one to put an original spin on a trend, Alexander Wang took a maximalist approach to his minimalist accessories this season: at his AW14 show for Balenciaga, models carried two, three or even four of his pared-down cable-strap shoppers, proving that – in some cases – you really can’t have too much of a good thing.

Anya Hindmarch and Chanel Catwalking; Balenciaga Jason Lloyd-Evans

Mulberry Tessie satchel £595

FA S H I O N

Natura se

Jérôme Dreyfuss Eliot bag £560

Fendi

By The Way bag £2,390

Alexander McQueen Stud bucket bag £1,145

Chanel flap bag £4,465

Ch el

In short, the message this season seems to be the shaggier, the better.

Bags came in everything from teddy-bear-style fleece to tactile brushed fur, but perhaps the most notable trend was the recasting of natural textures in novel tones. At Chanel, flap bags were reimagined in rainbow-coloured, patchwork shaved shearling, for example, while at Fendi – always a leader when it comes to furs and hides – a brown By The Way bag was anything but an afterthought, its purist form amped up with a playful swatch of Barbie-pink ponyskin. Last year’s muchloved, madcap Monster bags also reappeared at Fendi for AW14, and the label’s petite, pastel-hued, shaved-shearling Peekaboo was another standout. Jérôme Dreyfuss’s take, however, was more uptown: he designed his ultra-soft Eliot in white-as-snow fluffy rabbit fur. Not all the natural textures in the new collections have the same cuddly quality, though. Never one to follow the herd, Roberto Cavalli had an edgier take on the trend: his ponyskin Regina bag is speckled with studs.

Roberto Cavalli Regina bag £2,295

Nancy Gonzalez Drawstring Croc bag £5,500

Casual, comfortable to carry and ultra-capacious, the bucket bag’s appealingly practical attributes are belied by origins that are anything but utilitarian. The classic style was conceived by Gaston-Louis Vuitton in 1933 to transport bottles of Champagne. While the bucket bag’s renaissance has been bubbling away for a while now (Alexander Wang, always an early adopter, introduced his bestselling studded Diego bag in 2008), its upward trajectory has gone into overdrive in the past few seasons, spurred on, perhaps, by the deluxe-sportswear trend and the success of the bucket’s similarly laid-back cousin, the designer backpack. The latest bucket bags are not, however, limited to casual incarnations. In the new collections they appeared in every possible permutation, from patchwork snakeskin at Proenza Schouler to spiked studs at Alexander McQueen. The only thing they do have in common is a certain effortlessness: even Nancy Gonzalez’s ultra-luxe, vibrant alligator-skin version is infused with ease.

Proenza Schouler bucket bag £1,295

Available from Designer Accessories and Luxury Accessories, Lower Ground Floor; Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor; International Designer, First Floor; and harrods.com HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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Roksanda sweatshirt ÂŁ599

FA S H I O N

Technicolour DREAM GIRL

She’s the Serbian-born designer who seduced the British fashion industry with her elegant silhouettes and eyepopping colours. Now Roksanda Ilincic is on a roll PAUL SMITH

BY DEPUTY F

here’s a reason why black is so beloved by fashion designers. Clashing colours, the received wisdom goes, are difficult to pull off, less flattering, and certainly less refined for eveningwear. Add unconventional fabrics into the mix – fur from Steiff teddy bears, for example, or laminated organza – and the whole thing starts to sound positively outlandish. Yet those types of unexpected pairings (ones that on paper shouldn’t work, but are somehow exquisite in real life) are not only a signature of Roksanda Ilincic’s designs, but her stock in trade. As someone who has built her career on confounding expectations, Ilincic is not only one of British fashion’s most successful designers, but also one of its most surprising stars.

Ilincic, 38, grew up in Belgrade, in the former Yugoslavia.

Her father, Lazar, was a successful businessman and her mother, Ranka, a fashion-mad pharmaceutical PR who took Ilincic along to her private fittings, sparking an interest in dressmaking. Her rebellious streak became apparent early on, when she took a pair of fabric shears to her mother’s favourite Yves Saint Laurent skirts. “I think they were a bit too long for me,” she explains. Ilincic’s formative years were contented ones, but the idyll was interrupted by the outbreak of the Serbian-Bosnian conflict when she was a teenager. Suddenly career opportunities for an aspiring fashion designer were few and far between. “Fashion was seen as frivolous, something X

T

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FA S H I O N

“I’ve always tried to make my own rules and avoid being influenced by those around me” without a secure future. I felt like it wasn’t a viable profession,” she says. Pragmatically, she applied to study arts and architecture at university instead – disciplines that still inform her work – but switched to design after a few terms. “I realised I’d talked myself into architecture,” she says. “I was spending all my time studying British fashion magazines: The Face was my bible.” It was in the pages of those magazines that she discovered Central Saint Martins, and, figuring that it couldn’t be a coincidence that her favourite designers had graduated from the same college, she made up her mind to move to London. “I just packed my bags and left,” she says. “I felt like I didn’t have that much to lose.”

Timing her arrival in London to coincide with the Central Saint Martins admissions process, Ilincic presented her portfolio to Louise Wilson, the legendary and much missed professor of fashion design. “All my sketches were quite strange and odd. Nothing looked wearable. In fact I don’t think there were even any garments,” Ilincic remembers. Even so, Wilson spotted her potential and accepted her on to the prestigious MA Fashion Design course. Like her former classmates, Peter Jensen and Emma Cook, Ilincic credits Wilson with playing a key part in crystallising her aesthetic. “Wilson was a guiding light,” she says, “I didn’t know what my strengths were, but she had

Roksanda sweatshirt £575; Manolo Blahnik shoes £460

this amazing ability to make you look inside yourself in order to find something completely different.”

Ironically for a designer who claims she has always been attracted to “that type of beauty you find in ugliness”, Ilincic found her calling designing occasionwear. It was a complete contrast to her contemporaries’ edgy and conceptual output, but Ilincic had cannily identified a niche that was chronically underserved. “I had rebelled against anything considered classically feminine in Serbia, but in London nobody else was doing dresses or eveningwear so it actually felt quite radical,” she says.

“I’ve always tried to make my own rules and avoid being influenced by those around me.”

Though she describes herself as single-minded and ambitious from an early age, Ilincic battled self-doubt at the start of her career. “I can be quite hard on myself,” she admits. “I was initially reluctant to start my own label because there was always something at the back of my mind saying: you could’ve done more to prepare yourself, or to make the designs to a better standard.”

That perfectionism, coupled with a need to operate on a shoestring budget, meant Ilincic started small. After graduation she gained sponsorship for her shows from Fashion East, an incubator scheme for emerging talent, and in 2005 she made her on-schedule debut with a collection of 13 jewel-coloured, 1950s-influenced cocktail dresses. “It was feminine, grown-up and sophisticated… so different to what any other young designer was doing at the time,” recalls Fashion East founder Lulu Kennedy. “Something else that stood out was that Ilincic was fresh out of Central Saint Martins, but her materials and finishes were already of a luxury standard. Every detail was highly considered.”

Since then, Ilincic has kept the same razor-sharp focus and exacting standards, yet her output has grown exponentially. From a sleek canal-side design studio in scruffy east London, Ilincic and her mostly female design team now produce four mainline collections a year – including a mix of daywear separates, evening dresses and outerwear – which are stocked in more than 40 countries, as well as a swimwear and a childrenswear line. “Ilincic personally oversees every decision,” Kennedy says. “She makes everything look effortless, but she’s one of the most passionate and hardworking designers I’ve ever known.

She completely deserves her success.”

Ilincic’s upward trajectory hasn’t been fuelled by It bags or idiosyncratic statement pieces. Instead, she’s built up her business the old-fashioned way: by designing exquisitely cut, beautiful clothes that, while being easy to wear and classic enough not to date, still manage to be completely distinct. It’s an approach that resonates with today’s savvy post-recession consumer – one who demands mileage as well as of-the-moment appeal from their pieces, and who wants to look fashion-forward without sacrificing femininity. A statuesque beauty (at university Ilincic was signed by modelling agency Storm, the work part-funding her studies), the designer is often described as being her own best advertisement. Yet she’s adamant that she doesn’t cater for one just type of person, a claim backed up by her diverse clientele: everyone from the Duchess of Cambridge to Lady Gaga, Michelle Obama to Rita Ora regularly wears her designs. “She brings a unique vision, understanding and empathy to her collections,” Kennedy says. “Plus there’s always an almost avant-garde touch.”

Often that unexpected, slightly subversive quality comes courtesy of Ilincic’s use of technically advanced textiles. X HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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FA S H I O N “They give designs a different dimension,” she explains. “I love the notion of things not being quite what they seem; something that looks like leather might actually be PVC, or a jersey sweatshirt might be made from silk.” As well as experimenting with fabric and form, Ilincic is a fearless colourist, colour-blocking gowns in exuberant, paintbox brights. “She’s always bold,” confirms Mandi Lennard, the fashionpublicist-turned-brand-consultant who has supported Ilincic since her first collection. “Even if you’re someone who knows the brand, follows it and wears it, you’re still challenged and surprised each season.”

Impressively, Ilincic balances the commitments that come with being at the helm of a flourishing design empire with family life: she has a four-year-old daughter, Efimia, with her husband Philip Bueno de Mesquita, founder of streetwear brand Acupuncture. While Bueno de Mesquita’s business nous, Ilincic says, has been instrumental in her company’s success, it’s remarkable that, until recently, her business was entirely self-owned and self-funded. “It was hard in the beginning, because everything happened more slowly,” she says. “But I did things on my own terms.” Earlier this year she took on a minority investor for the first time. “I’m glad I waited so long for a partner with the same vision and understanding, because investment can either break your business or it can take it to next level.”

For Ilincic, it’s clear the outcome will be the latter. Investment has already financed a new focus on international expansion, and she’s rebranded by dropping her difficult-to-pronounce surname from her company’s name. She’s also considering launching new lines: accessories and footwear are surely the most obvious candidates?

“Yes, but weirdly, menswear is something that lots of people have been asking about,” Ilincic says. “But I find it hard to believe that there are many men out there who want to buy a bright pink suit, or a jacket with frills and a flower!” That might not seem an appealing proposition now, but if Ilincic’s past performance is anything to go by, Britain’s most stylish men could soon be queuing up for the most colourful (and possibly frilly) menswear imaginable. HMN Roksanda dress £999 Hair YOSHITAKA MIYAZAKI Make-up ARIEL YEH using Sisley Nails CHISATO at Terri Manduca Model MAJA SIMONSEN at Premier Photographer’s Assistants KELLY MITCHELL and DAVE STEWART Available from International Designer, First Floor; and Harrods Shoe Heaven, Fifth Floor

Trend watch: CAPES

There’s a new breed of superhero in town as the age of the cape arrives with a flourish

BY LA

TON

Experts are warning of a rise in Crusader Syndrome this winter, a potentially lethal condition which, in its last outbreak, caused grown women to spontaneously attempt feats of superhuman strength. Milder forms led to several sufferers being arrested for indecent exposure as they attempted to change clothes in telephone boxes. Researchers believe that, so far, the condition has been confined solely to cape wearers, but advise vigilance nonetheless.

The symptoms, happily, are easy to spot. Early indicators include swooshing one’s Burberry Prorsum mackintosh cape about in a fantastical manner and showing a marked interest in saving-the-world masks, webspinning and general acts of heroism. Should you be required to deal with anyone offsetting their grey and black Roberto Cavalli blanket cape with a pair of underpants worn over tights, experts suggest extreme caution; as an emergency measure, there’s always the Marvel hotline.

Crusader Syndrome, however, is not the only danger presented by this season’s most dashing outerwear. Cape wearing has been known to lead to Grimm’s Disorder, in which the wearer is convinced she’s a character from a fairy tale. Consider Dolce & Gabbana’s long, moss-green cape with its Scandinavian vibe and appliquéd woodland creatures. For the casual coat-wearer it might seem nothing more than a lovely and fanciful addition to one’s wardrobe – but for those susceptible to Grimm’s, the risks are great. In a matter of hours, the affected wearer may be talking in riddles to the cape’s embroidered foxes, or becoming preoccupied by thoughts of princes, goblins and golden toads. Grimm’s Disorder is, at least, a temporary condition. Indeed many regard it as a merry way to see out the year’s bleakest months.

A bigger threat is the new, as-yet-unnamed malady that’s been making itself known around the Baker Street area. Sufferers have been spotted sporting deerstalkers and trying to recruit passers-by to be their trusty sidekick. Others have exhibited truly uncanny powers of deduction and a commitment to solving crime at all costs. So far, confirmed cases have been confined to stylish circles, which has led experts to believe the chief suspect behind London’s explosion of sleuth-like style is Saint Laurent’s checked cape.

Laura Barton is a feature writer for The Guardian. She also writes for Q, The Word, Vogue and Red X WATCH Download the Harrods Magazine app for tips on being a caped crusader

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FROM TOP Burberry Prorsum cape £895; Roberto Cavalli cape £7,660; Dolce & Gabbana cape £14,780; Saint Laurent cape £1,770

Credits TK Images

Available from International Designer, First Floor; and harrods.com

NEWS

ENCH ACCENT

OLIVIA VON HALLE

y f vou te things

With their quirky-cool aesthetic, Kenzo creative directors Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have re-established the label as one to be reckoned with; what better indicator of its renewed influence than those logo-emblazoned sweaters? For Resort 2015, the design duo were inspired by their position as Americans in Paris. The result? French sartorial codes have been given a twist; think stripes on a boxy blazer, sailor buttons decorated with the Eiffel Tower and the Statue of Liberty, and spots with florals. A fluid shirtdress, meanwhile, heralds a more sophisticated mood, but retains the ease that has brought Kenzo back as one of Paris’ hottest labels.

From left Kenzo dress £500 and coat £500.

Available from Designer Studio, First Floor

Formerly a trend forecaster, Olivia von Halle launched her sleepwear line in 2011 during London Fashion Week, finding fans in Victoria Beckham and Gwyneth Paltrow. Von Halle talks to Harrods Magazine about the Pierre Cardin nightgown that first piqued her interest.

FLAIR trade

It’s more than 17 years since Matthew Williamson’s acclaimed Electric Angels collection marked his debut on the London fashion scene. However, the India-meetsIbiza aesthetic, flair for embellishment and mastery of colour that catapulted him to fame haven’t been forgotten, and are prominent in his Resort 2015 collection. A butterfly-print dress coat with bugle beads and hand-tufted silk threads is particularly in keeping with the designer’s DNA, and fans can catch the jacquard coat making an appearance in Harrods’ Christmas windows, popping up on a jack-in-thebox. Matthew Williamson coat £2,850, exclusive to Harrods. Available from International Designer, First Floor

TWO COOL

“I don’t think there’s a designer who focuses on that need for me time, free time, my weekend… for the casual side of life,” Tomas Maier says, referring to his inspiration. His eponymous label experienced international success when it launched in 1997, and has continued to impress, though Maier has been doing dual duty as creative director of Bottega Veneta for the past 13 years. Fashion conglomerate Kering invested in Maier’s own brand in 2013 and the partnership’s debut will be its 2015 cruise collection, which uses a restrained colour palette to bring Maier’s designs to life. Calf leather, denim and cashmere in vibrant red, dusty grey and classic black come together in a casual, but still creative, take on dressing. Tomas Maier top £265, skirt £455 and belt £155. Available from International Designer, First Floor

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“I grew up on a farm, surrounded by aunties and uncles, grandparents, cousins and ponies.

It was wonderful. The only problem was, my mother was very unmaterialistic and labels were banned in our house. I have a memory of one of my aunts coming round with a bin bag of her old clothes. She pulled out this full-length nightgown that I immediately loved. Then I saw it had Pierre Cardin written on it and I just died and went to heaven! It became my favourite thing ever.

“I think the nightgown must’ve sparked some idea about designer nightwear in my eight-year-old mind but, even though I studied fashion, I had a slow eureka moment. When my husband and I moved to Shanghai in 2008, I had to get things tailored because I’m six feet tall. I found a wonderful tailor who’d make me anything I’d design, including Chinese silk pyjamas – the glamorous type Coco Chanel used to wear.

“After visiting the UK, I’d arrive back in Shanghai flooded Olivia von Halle pyjama sets and robes from with orders from £290. Available from friends. One time Lingerie, First Floor I came back with an order for 40 pairs, and my tailor said he couldn’t spend his life making pyjamas for me. Still, the whole thing happened slowly.

I was fixated on starting an organic dog-food business when, the whole time, I had this obvious business under my nose.

I am so glad I’m a designer and not a dogfood entrepreneur. I’m a vegetarian now, so it would’ve been a disaster.”

– By Lindsay Macpherson

PROMO T ION

Leader of the BACKPACK Expertly crafted, bijou and wearable four ways, MCM’s new Bebe Boo backpack is this season’s must-have mini bag ASHION ASSISTANT

MCM Bebe Boo backpack ÂŁ425. Available from Designer Accessories, Lower Ground Floor; and harrods.com

NEWS

An inte vie

Past MASTE

TARANG ARORA

He’s known for having his finger on the pulse of all things digital, but Burberry Prorsum’s Christopher Bailey isn’t above looking to the past for his designs.

A paean to all things creative, Bailey’s AW14 collection paid homage to the Bloomsbury Set, a circle of intellectuals and artists active in early-20th-century Britain. The group’s love of the bohemian aesthetic is reflected in the silhouettes (think blanket-stitch ponchos and belted dresses), while the Burberry trench coat was hand-painted with floral motifs.

Burberry Prorsum capes £895 each.

Available from International Designer, First Floor

by Lindsay Macpherson Jaipur-based Amrapali, founded in 1978 by cousins Rajesh Ajmera and Rajiv Arora, is now one of India’s best-known jewellery brands. Its CEO – and designer – Tarang Arora talks to Harrods Magazine about supporting artisans and exploring the darker side of the maharajas.

Moon of love

With a design featuring moon, stars and clouds, IWC’s new Portofino Midsize Automatic Moon Phase watch offers a sizeable nod to the brand’s history – the motif first appeared in the original Portofino in 1984. This model, however, is a very different take on that first incarnation. Features include diamond-set cases in white gold, red gold or stainless steel; there is a choice of black, blue or brown alligator strap; and the new design incorporates white-diamond hour markers on a dial in either mother-of-pearl or black lacquer. IWC watch £10,250.

Available from The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor

ARTISTIC interpretation

The union of fashion and fine art is an established one: from Elsa Schiaparelli to Yves Saint Laurent, creative geniuses have looked to the art world, or the gallery wall, for their references. This season, Abstract Expressionist artist Mark Rothko – and more specifically his renowned Colour Field paintings – provided the starting point for Beirut-born designer Elie Saab.

A selection of exclusive gowns incorporate layers of ornate embroidery and painterly embellishments that reflect Rothko’s brush strokes. A merlot dress gradually transitions between sequins and silk georgette, while a black, thigh-slashed, highly decorated dress pays homage to Rothko’s legendary love of colour and texture. Elie Saab gown £5,775.

Available from International Designer, First Floor

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ith

“Around 35 years ago, when my father and uncle were history graduates with limited resources, they travelled to remote Indian villages, met master craftsmen and goldsmiths, and absorbed forgotten techniques. At that time there was no concept of tribal jewellery being fashionable or marketable, but Amrapali managed to break the mould.

In India, talented artisans work hand in hand. A necklace’s collets are made by one person, engraving is done by another, enamelling by someone else.

Everyone works to their strengths.

Our designs are ethnic, handcrafted and traditional, but that doesn’t mean we’re restricted to inspiration from Indian jewellery. There are similarities in pieces from Africa, the Indus Valley civilisation and Ancient Greece.

Amrapali employs more than 2,000 Indian craftsmen. Their contribution is vital to keeping Indian art and tradition alive. Today’s youth are attracted by white-collar jobs, but hopefully if we show we can give them a secure future FROM TOP Amrapali and good support 18kt gold earrings with system, they’ll consider rose-cut and fancy entering the trade. diamonds £18,000 and Royal Indian jewellery 18kt gold, blue sapphire and diamond necklace is magnificent, but £18,000. Available from I felt tales of the The Fine Jewellery maharajas were Room, Ground Floor lacking rebellion.

Dark Maharaja is an edgy collection that incorporates ancient weapons such as vajras, swords, shields and spears with rubies and diamonds set in gold and silver filigree.

Learn, earn and return is Amrapali’s motto. My uncle and father learned from the craftsmen of India; now they want to give back. Our soon-to-open jewellery museum in Jaipur will house 2,000 one-of-a-kind tribal jewels, decorative pieces and fabrics from all over India, inspiring new jewellery designers and letting travellers appreciate its traditions.”

PROMO T ION

From Paris with love

For almost a century, family firm Yves Salomon has been creating fur designs that are as innovative as they are chic Any fashion house established in Paris during the 1920s has something of an advantage in the art of glamour. It was during this time that Gregory Salomon decamped to the City of Light from Russia, bringing with him his incomparable fur expertise. He was a maverick and a creator of trends – and it was these qualities that laid the foundations of the world-renowned furrier that is today run by a fourth-generation Salomon, Thomas.

By the late 1990s, such was the brand’s mastery, it had developed knitted, ultra-light and stretch furs. As well as designing the house’s own line, Thomas Salomon has followed in the footsteps of his father, Yves, who during

FROM LEFT Yves Salomon mixed-mink coat £15,900, sable and shearling long gilet £35,000 and sable cape £32,000. Available from Eveningwear, First Floor

his years at the helm of the company created pieces for everyone from Jean Paul Gaultier to Nina Ricci, Thierry Mugler to Azzedine Alaïa.

Today, in his Paris workshop, Thomas balances his extensive know-how in classic furrier techniques with his talent for innovation. The resulting pieces exemplify craftsmanship and guarantee durability. They are also great examples of contemporary design. For AW14, as well as more traditional coats, the collection features a knee-length gilet, a collarless mixed-mink coat and a cropped cape, echoing the bold shapes that were seen on the season’s runways.

FA S H I O N

su

The MIDI

Calf-grazing lengths lend a relaxed glamour to flowing silhouettes and romantic prints

y

Alex Monroe necklace £168

Burberry Prorsum shoes £1,195

1

Tory Burch dress £1,125

2

Burberry Prorsum dress £1,595

Folk TALE

Whimsical florals and painterly prints bring primitive prettiness to the season.

Just add bunny earrings Dolce & Gabbana dress £3,290

Louis Vuitton jacket £4,419, sweater £1,061 and trousers £972

Paul & Joe sweatshirt £205

Esme Vie jacket £1,025

Available from Luxury Accessories and Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; International Designer and Studio, First Floor; Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor; Harrods Shoe Heaven, Fifth Floor, and harrods.com

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3

Givenchy dress £7,199

Givenchy

Louis Vuitton

Karen Millen jeans £99

Alex Monroe earrings £108

Burberry Prorsum jacket £3,995 and dress £1,295

Fendi By the Way bag £2,390

Stylist Olivia Halsall

Dolce & Gabbana bag £5,215

u

Equipment shirt £300

NE WS

Welcome to the JUNGLE

An alumna of Parsons and Central Saint Martins, 4HYH /VăTHU SH\UJOLK OLY ÄYZ[ YLHK` [V ^LHY SPUL H[ [OL [\YU VM [OL TPSSLUUP\T MVJ\ZPUN VU IH[PR TV[PMZ HUK L`L JH[JOPUN KLZPNUZ /LY HLZ[OL[PJ UV^ L_[LUKZ [V JOPSKYLUZ^LHY ^P[O IYPNO[ IVSK WYPU[Z VM SLVWHYKZ WHST [YLLZ HUK WHYYV[Z Mara Hoffmann swimsuit £99.95, dress £72.95 and jumpsuit £99.95. Available from Children’s Swimwear, Fourth Floor

Little TED

One of the oldest British toy manufacturers, Merrythought has been creating handmade teddy bears for more than 80 years. The bears are still produced in the original Victorian factory, which is owned and overseen by fourth-generation family members. This Christmas, especially for Harrods, a 13-inch mohair bear with embroidered silk paw pads is available in a limited edition of 50.

Bear £129; exclusive to Harrods. Available from The Reading Room, Third Floor

oyal STORYLINE

Alongside her commitments as Crown Princess of Greece, Princess of Denmark, in 2001 Marie-Chantal established her eponymous childrenswear brand. Taking its cues from storytelling, her AW14 collection features 100 per cent cashmere knitted baby outfits and a box-pleated jacquard dress (below). Other pieces include an exclusive golden Children’s Diary and a doll made by upcycling specialist Les Toiles Blanches.

Marie-Chantal dress £195. Available from Children’s Designer Apparel, Fourth Floor

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Write stuff

In 1929, the General Manager of Harrods, Richard Burbidge, decided to try to boost students’ job prospects with a handwriting competition. Last autumn, Mini Harrods brought back the contest, asking children in two age categories to copy out a paragraph about the store’s resident book-loving bear, Oska-Poska. Four judges – Rob Biddulph, author; Deb Bee, Harrods’ Director of Creative Marketing; Kate Reardon, Editor of Tatler; and Courtney Adamo, Babyccino blogger – then picked two winners: Lucy, age 7, from Peterhead in Aberdeenshire and Kiersten, age 9, from Stockwell in London.

Both will receive a £500 Rewards card credit to spend in-store. harrods.com/miniharrods

Shades of the SIXTIES

The eclectic atmosphere of ’60s London served to inspire Gucci’s AW14 children’s collection – exemplified by a range of colourful bags that epitomise the energy of the era. Totes, given a light design touch and enhanced with gold embossing, come in sunshine yellow, purple grape or fiery red; the colours are mirrored on a line of mini messenger bags featuring a tactile interlocking “double-G” logo.

Gucci tote £410. Available from Children’s Designer Apparel and Junior Designer Apparel, Fourth Floor

M U S T- H AV E S

Make it SNAPPY

Mark Cross Grace box bag £2,799; Lana Marks Cleopatra clutch, price on request; Nancy Gonzalez Razor clutch £1,930; Ethan K minaudière with 18kt gold-coated crocodile skin and clasp £4,360; Analeena Double Faced Metallic clutch £11,250 Available from Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT

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CreditsOlivia Stylist TK Images Halsall

In metallic-toned crocodile and alligator skin, compact clutches give a gleaming edge to eveningwear.

Grab one and go

M U S T- H AV E S

SHAUN LEANE

Aerial earrings in 18kt white gold with diamonds and Gemfields emeralds £27,950 and in 18kt rose gold with diamonds and pink tourmalines £12,200

Set to BLOOM Credits TK Images

Glistening gems, from fire opals and rough-cut rubies to pink sapphires and cognac diamonds, flourish in Christmas bouquets. Delicacy was never so dramatic P

TIST LOU BLACKSHAW

STYLIST

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MEIRA T

POMELLATO

BELOW, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Nudo ring in rose gold and white gold with amethyst £1,150, Sabbia ring in burnished rose gold with black diamonds £1,000, Nudo ring in white gold and rose gold with amethyst and white diamonds £3,980, Sabbia ring in rhodium-plated rose gold with white diamonds £1,670 and Nudo ring in rose gold and white gold with white diamonds and lemon quartz £3,980

Rough-cut ruby slice bracelet with a halo of white diamonds £750, druzy ring £1,500, rough-cut blue sapphire beaded bracelet £969, blue sapphire bracelet £2,200, long pavé white gold ring £1,350 and long pavé rose gold ring £1,350; RIGHT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP white gold sapphire bar ring £1,379, rough-cut ruby multi-strand bracelet £2,700, large tanzanite earrings £3,500 and emerald drop earrings £1,379

ANNOUSHKA

Dusty Diamonds ring in 18kt yellow gold with citrine and cognac diamonds £2,200, Basket ring in 18kt rose gold with amethyst and pink sapphires £8,500 and Dusty Diamonds drop earrings in 18kt yellow gold with green diamonds and smoky quartz £2,200 FROM TOP

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STEPHEN WEBSTER

CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT Magnipheasant Plumage cocktail ear studs in 18kt white gold with white diamonds and tanzanite £27,000, two-finger ring in 18kt white gold with rubies, fire opal, yellow sapphires and black diamonds £29,000 and three-finger ring in 18kt gold with white diamonds £35,000

M U S T- H AV E

Credits TK Images

MONICA VINADER

FROM TOP Riva Diamond Cluster bracelet £495, Riva Diamond Cluster bib necklace £2,000, Riva Diamond Hoop chain bracelet £235, Riva Moonstone Wire earrings £145, Riva Diamond Hoop ring £160, Riva Diamond Hoop cocktail earrings £595 and Riva Diamond Hoop pendant £160 (shown with 15-inch to 17-inch adjustable Rolo chain £45); all pieces shown are 18kt rose gold-plated vermeil

Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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FA S H I O N

3 ways with

EVENINGWEAR Classic formalwear is reconfigured to suit AW14’s refined mood

luti

Lanvin jacket £2,150, shirt £299 and bow tie £99.95

Berluti suit £2,670 shirt £420 and bow tie £110

Sandro coat £450

Kurt Geiger shoes £140

Couture STYLE Precise cuts and

Man of METAL Metallic fabrics and highshine finishes find fresh expression when paired with 1940s silhouettes

attention to detail set these after-dark classics apart

Burberry London coat £1,695

National VELVET Textural pattern and

Dolce & G bb n

Dolce & Gabbana suit £7,295

velvet trim give a fin-de-siècle twist to formal tailoring

Valextra bag £775 A Lange & Söhne watch £53,100

Saint Laurent coat £17,675

Deakin & Francis cuff links £260

Tod’s shoes £335

Oliver Peoples sunglasses from a selection

Etro jacket £925; Burberry London shirt from a selection; Dolce & Gabbana bow tie £110

Jimmy Choo shoes £575, exclusive to Harrods

Available from Men’s Accessories, Men’s International Gallery, Men’s Shirts & Ties and The Men’s Shoe Salon, Lower Ground Floor; The Fine Watch Room, Men’s International Collections, Men’s Luxury Collections and Sunglasses, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

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Stylist Becky Branch

Ermenegildo Zegna jacket from a selection; Prada shirt £205; Harrods of London bow tie £39.95

Gieves & H

es

Gieves & Hawkes jacket £2,250

Steiff

elst ff

For my gorgeous nephew, I’d choose a huge Steiff lion, because his favourite cartoon character is Alex the Lion from Madagascar. £3,999

I’d give Agent Provocateur’s Demelza corset to my friend who’s doing a show in the West End. There’s something so exciting about dramatic lingerie, because no one else knows you’re wearing it. £395

My dad’s dream gift would be a bottle of 1985 Château Petrus. He’s a wine connoisseur and we’ve visited vineyards all over the world. Sharing this wine with him would make it the best Christmas ever. £2,395

et us

Donn K

n

Agent ovoc eu

For one of my male friends, I’d buy Belstaff’s leather Stannard biker jacket. In The Interceptor, my character is always riding a motorbike and I love the feeling of freedom it gives you. £1,175

cQueen

Available from Men’s International Gallery and The Wine Rooms, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor; International Designer and Lingerie, First Floor; Cookshop, Second Floor; The Reading Room, Third Floor; Children’s Designer and Children’s Shoes, Fourth Floor; and harrods.com

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Anna Skellern and Olivia Grant Camera Press

For myself, I’d love the Alexander McQueen satin-bow wool-felt coat to keep me cosy and chic this winter. £1,999

Alex nde

I’d like to give my brother a Vitamix Professional Series 500 blender. I swear by mine…

I’m not sure I could actually do without it. £599

Vit ix

For my little niece, I’d get Charlotte Olympia flats, a Christian Dior hooded cape and a feather-trimmed silk organza dress, because she loves dressing up as a princess. This ensemble looks like something that Elsa from Frozen would wear. Cape £720; shoes £195

ANNA SKELLERN

You’ll remember her from Parade’s End and The Musketeers; see her next in Solitary with Sam Hoare and The Interceptor with Lee Boardman

Ch lotte Oly i

Ch isti n Dio

For an aunt of mine who’s effortlessly stylish, I’d choose a Donna Karan stretch cotton shirt. It’s a smart casual look, for day or night, over jeans, tights or tailored trousers. £575

Debo h Li

nn

Ac u di

Acqua di Parma’s Colonia Assoluta gift sets make an impressively extravagant present. The statement yellow-with-black-detail box is just bursting with stylish grooming products.

A perfect beauty hamper for European friends who turn their noses up at anything that’s not Italian. £81

Alex nde Penhaligon’s is great for gifts.

I have my eye on its extremely English Earl Grey tea candle for an aunt – or maybe a Downton Abbey-obsessed American who needs an extra fix of Britishness. £87

I’ve been lusting after Globe-Trotter luggage for a while, and I love the Safari cases’ vintage look. Definitely an extravagance, but a cool gift for a well-travelled friend.

30-inch suitcase £1,235

Alexander McQueen’s jacquard tartan skull tie seems a foolproof gift for a boyfriend. Melding the quiet indie motif with a classic pattern, it’s unusual without being showy. £120

To Fo

Globe-T otte

I can’t think of anything better as a thank-you present for colleagues than Dom Pérignon. With its matt-black bottle and gold label, the 2004 vintage pleasingly reminds me of Batman – though there’s no guarantee it will give you any superpowers. £140

OLIVIA GRANT

You’ll remember her from Lark Rise to Candleford and Garrow’s Law; see her next in Indian Summers alongside Julie Walters and The Devil Went Down to Islington with Ronni Ancona

enh ligon’s

Do

é ignon

Monica Vinader’s bracelets are popular right now, so what better gift than the diamond-encrusted Fiji Ultimate? The only problem is that you’d have to love someone very much for it not to surreptitiously make its way into your own jewellery box. £2,500

cQueen

My younger cousins would love Deborah Lippmann’s 15th Anniversary Music Box collection of nail varnishes.

I know this because they enjoy everything that I secretly yearn for but feel I should have grown out of by now. £225

I love Graf von Faber-Castell’s Desk Set No.1, which manages to be both manly and classic.

It consists of an ebony pencil accompanied by four refills. My father would adore it. £400

onic Vin de

G f von F e -C stell

I’m a fan of Saint Laurent, which seems to have become decidedly more edgy since Hedi Slimane lost “Yves” from the name. Its grained leather wallet would make an excellent gift for my brother – it’s grown-up with an understated rock’n’roll twist. £275

S int L u ent

W ISHLIST TK TK

I’m currently a bit obsessed with Tom Ford’s new Patchouli Absolu – he can do no wrong in my eyes. It’d make a perfect gift for flower-child mums who remember this kind of scent from the groovy ’70s. £330

Available from Designer Accessories, The Gentleman’s Lounge, Men’s Shirts & Ties and The Wine Rooms, Lower Ground Floor; The Beauty Apothecary, The Colour Hall, Luxury Jewellery and The Perfumery Hall, Ground Floor; The Great Writing Room and Travel Goods & Luggage, Second Floor; Salon de Parfums, Sixth Floor; and harrods.com HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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Freddie, my friend’s son, is three and recently got into dragons. Travis Designs does some amazing children’s dressing-up costumes, including a Triceratops, which he’d love because it’s very dragon-like. £34.95

I’m obviously away a lot with work, but I have the most amazing neighbours and I always feel like I’m home when I see them again. Recently we were talking about luggage being a good investment, so for them I’d get the Bric’s Bellagio Spinner Trolley suitcase. 76cm, £475

Available from Luxury Accessories, Lower Ground Floor; The Beauty Apothecary, Luxury Accessories, Luxury Jewellery and Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor; International Designer, First Floor; Travel Goods & Luggage, Second Floor; Toy Kingdom, Third Floor; and harrods.com

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MyAnna Buring Getty Images

A Mulberry tote would be a lovely gift for my friend Jess, the mum of little Arlo. It’s large – so good for the nappies – but also luxurious, thereby ticking two boxes. £595

ic’s

ulbe y

I have a friend called Kate who is getting married and mentioned that she really wanted a metallic purse for the evening party. I think the Roberto Cavalli snakeprint leather pochette, complete with bracelet, would do the job very well. £675

MYANNA BURING

You’ll know her from The Twilight Saga: Breaking Dawn and Downton Abbey; see her next in Ripper Street with Matthew Macfadyen and Banished opposite David Wenham

T vis Designs

For my friend Saskia, who’s an agent, it would be the Eve Lom Travel Essentials. I love these products; they feel indulgent, and, using them, she could think of me. £75

u be y o su obe to C v lli

For my dad, I think the Burberry Prorsum woolcashmere herringbone Chesterfield coat would be fantastic, keeping him warm and looking elegant when it’s cold. The perfect coat instantly smartens any outfit. £1,895

One of my best friends is Charlene McKenna who stars opposite me in Ripper Street.

She’s just moved to New York so I’d get her a Kerr cashmere sweater from The Row. There’s something about cashmere that just feels like home. £975

Eve Lo

For my friend Lisa, I’d choose the Bumblebee crocodile clutch by Ethan K. This year, she has been touring all over Europe with her band Dark Horses and she could rock this bag beautifully. £3,200

Givenchy

Givenchy’s leopardprint silk scarf has my mum’s name all over it. Both she and I love anything with an animal print. £255

The o

Eth n K

GIF T S

FA S H I O N

Over the RAINBOW Inspired by its ’70s archive, Valentino’s 2015 cruise collection is previewed in the Brompton Road windows, along with exclusively designed accessories, all in glorious technicolour MA

A

F

Valentino gown £21,750 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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FA S H I O N Valentino gown £19,140; Jimmy Choo shoes from a selection; OPPOSITE PAGE Valentino dress £10,440 and bracelet £170

THIS PAGE

Hair FEDERICO GHEZZI at CLM Make-up SILVER BRAMHAM using Bobbi Brown Nails CHISATO YAMAMOTO at Terri Manduca Model ANNA ZAKUYSLO at Next Junior Fashion Assistant OLIVIA HALSALL Photographer’s Assistant JAKUB KOZIEL Digital Operator PIOTR JAMROZIK Available from Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor; International Designer, First Floor; Harrods Shoe Heaven, Fifth Floor X WATCH Download the Harrods Magazine app for a rush of retro style made modern

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FA S H I O N

Tread LIGHTLY Vibrant colours are finely balanced in Valentino’s psychedelic sandals, ready to put a zing in your step STYLIST OLIVIA HALSALL

FROM TOP Valentino shoes

£645, £725 and £645 Available from Harrods Shoe Heaven, Fifth Floor

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THE DANCE GOES ON

Fabulous feathers, swirling silk skirts and delicate jewelled detailing create a sense of seasonal theatre. Get ready to steal the limelight F

Roland Mouret gown ÂŁ2,350; Annoushka single earring ÂŁ850

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THIS PAGE Ralph Lauren feather jacket

from a selection and dress £4,590;

OPPOSITE PAGE Ralph & Russo gown

£35,500; Alex Monroe earrings £135; ballet shoes from a selection

Sandro suit £XXXX; Harrods of London shirt £XXXX and tie £XXX; OPPOSITE PAGE Hardy Amies suit £XXXX; Harrods of London shirt £XXX and tie £XXX; Church’s shoes £XXXX THIS PAGE

THIS PAGE Lanvin dress £2,425; Annoushka single earring £850; OPPOSITE PAGE Christian Dior dress £8,900; Annoushka single earring £850; Kurt Geiger shoes £220

FA S H I O N Dennis Basso dress £5,250; Annoushka earrings £1,800 and ring £295; OPPOSITE PAGE Alexander McQueen gown £14,500; Annoushka earrings £1,800; Gina shoes £650

THIS PAGE

Hair TIM CRESPIN at Sarah Laird Make-up ARIEL YEH using Sisley Make-up Assistant LILY GREGORY Nails DAISY HASSAN Model LOURDES COTERON at Models 1 Senior Fashion Assistant BECKY BRANCH Photographer’s Assistants ANDRAS BARTOK and DAVID JAFFE Digital Operator ROB BILLINGTON

Credits TK Images

Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; Eveningwear and International Designer, First Floor; Harrods Shoe Heaven, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com

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FA S H I O N

SENSE OF BALANCE

Bring some off-kilter charm to evening attire with surprising textures, touches of shine and black-tie detailing. Minus the black tie TE / F

Corneliani suit £1,250; Harrods of London shirt £140; Falke socks £12.95; Church’s shoes £340 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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Sandro jacket £480 and trousers £250; Harrods of London shirt £140 and tie £79.95; OPPOSITE PAGE Hardy Amies suit £650; Harrods of London shirt £140 and tie £79.95; Church’s boots £350 THIS PAGE

THIS PAGE Brand itemitem £XXXX; Brand itemitem £XXXX; Brand itemitem £XXXX; Brand itemitem £XXXX; Brand itemitem £XXXX; Brand itemitem

THIS PAGE Givenchy suit £1,299, shirt £295 and shoes from a selection; OPPOSITE PAGE Paul Smith suit £599; Harrods of London shirt £140 and tie £79.95; Church’s boots £350

FA S H I O N

THIS PAGE Mr Start coat £799; Hardy Amies suit £650; Harrods of London shirt £140 and tie £79.95; Church’s shoes £315; OPPOSITE PAGE Wooyoungmi coat £775; Mr Start shirt £149; Louis Vuitton trousers £720; Harrods of London tie £79.95

Grooming LIZ DAXAUER at Caren using Kiehl’s Model ANDERS HAYWARD at Supa Fashion Intern TRINA OUTRAM Photographer’s Assistants EMMANUEL PINEAU and TOM ORITZ Digital Operator CLARK FRANKLYN Available from Men’s Collections, Men’s International Gallery, Men’s Shirts & Ties, The Men’s Shoe Salon and Men’s Socks, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s International Collections and Men’s Luxury Collections, Ground Floor; and harrods.com X WATCH Download the Harrods Magazine app for a totally different slant on evening attire HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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FA S H I O N

Ami sweater £310

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THE COMFORT ZONE Super-luxe yarns and chunky knits give the Christmas sweater new-found cred, with not a snowake or reindeer in sight J

TIN / F

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SEC TION

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FRAGRANCE SPECIAL

BE AU T Y I love this flauntable Collector’s Edition from one of our favourite design houses – Dolce & Gabbana. The Bronzer features the motif of an ancient coin, a symbol with a strong presence in the label’s heritage. The pictured Greek goddess, Athena, represents courage and intelligence, and the richly pigmented pressed powder gives skin a warm glow. £42

It’s sleek, deliciously decadent and by Tom Ford, which is pretty much all I need to know to make a recommendation. A coffret in Makassar ebony – a material often used by the brand – houses four 250ml decanters of Private Blend fragrances of your choice, from White Suede to Noir de Noir. The gift can also be engraved for that personalised touch. Coffret £180 and decanters 250ml, £330 each

Absinthe iStock

HIGH FIVE

I visited Morocco twice this year and loved its vibrant colours and rich herbs and spices.

So Penhaligon’s new As Sawira, inspired by the seaport of Essaouira, was a must-try.

It didn’t disappoint, with saffron and absinthe introducing a floral bouquet warmed by labdanum, sandalwood and amber. By the time the oud came through, I was hooked. 100ml, £150

Layering scents is synonymous with Jo Malone London. So are sumptuous gift sets. And, this season, the limited-edition Cologne Intense Trousseau is particularly divine. Along with six sensual scents to mist and match (I love Dark Amber & Ginger Lily with Amber & Patchouli), there is a dry body oil in Velvet Rose & Oud and an Oud & Bergamot candle. £835

All products are exclusive to Harrods. Available from The Beauty Apothecary and The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor; Salon de Parfums, Sixth Floor; and harrods.com

I’ve always thought Crème de la Mer The Concentrate deserves its own podium and so, it seems, does Anya Hindmarch, as she’s collaborated with the beauty brand to create the limited-edition Crème de la Mer Ultimate Box. In full-grain calfskin, this is a vanity case for stowing precious products and, indeed, anything else you think merits a special place on your dressing table. £2,000

LOVE IS IN THE AIR Swirling. Unfurling. The true genius of scent – and its heart-stopping effects – seductively unfolds the moment you lift the stopper TED HUMBLE-SMITH

ROJA DOVE “H” – The Exclusive Aoud

A rich, luminous blend of rare ingredients, Roja Dove mingles jasmin de Grasse and rose de Mai in “H” – The Exclusive Aoud, an homage to Harrods. At its base, patchouli, labdanum, cypriol, soft benzoin and oud give the fragrance a deep sensuality. 50ml, £395

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DOLCE & GABBANA Velvet Desert Oud

As smooth and decadent as crushed velvet, Dolce & Gabbana Velvet Desert Oud calls on Middle Eastern indulgence for its inspiration. Heady incense slowly develops into rich, smoky tones of oud and warm amber. 150ml, ÂŁ310; exclusive to Harrods

CREED Aventus

Celebrating 250 years of fragrance mastery, Creed presents Aventus – a timeless scent with tantalising accents. At the top, a burst of bergamot collides with bittersweet blackcurrant. At the base, a beguiling blend of ambergris and vanilla. A wonderful harmony. 75ml, £175

BURBERRY My Burberry

Christopher Bailey envisaged a London garden after rain when he briefed perfumer Francis Kurkdjian on My Burberry. The result? A sparkling blend of sweet pea, geranium and freesia notes, in a bottle dressed with subtle elements from the classic Burberry trench coat. 90ml, ÂŁ90

PROMO T ION

BOADICEA THE VICTORIOUS Torc

DEAR ROSE A Capella

BOTTEGA VENETA Knot

VAN CLEEF & ARPELS First Edition Or

A powerful floral heart of rose, jasmine and narcissus is joined by rich raspberry and cassis in Torc. At the base, deep leather wraps around oud and amber, inspired by a golden torc necklace worn

by Queen Boadicea herself. 100ml, £300

Picture a room by the Italian Riviera. The scent of peonies carried on a breeze through crisp linen curtains. Bottega Veneta Knot is the olfactory equivalent of just that – with lavender and citrus notes. Pure serenity. 50ml, £70

From a debut collection of five fragrances comes A Capella, an invigorating eau de parfum from contemporary brand Dear Rose. Inside, a heart of rose – blended with crisp, dewy ivy – rests on a base of luminous white wood. 100ml, £105

A fresh interpretation of the jeweller’s original fragrance, First Edition Or makes its mark with a bloom of delicate florals. Beneath, the airy elegance of white musk sits beside a sweet vanilla note. 60ml, £59

AMOUAGE Journey Woman & Journey Man

Complementing each other with enchanting compositions, Amouage’s Journey for her and him make an idyllic couple. In hers, honeyed osmanthus and sweet apricot surround a floral heart of Indian jasmine sambac and aromatic mimosa. In his, spicy Sichuan pepper meets fresh juniper berries and a wisp of incense, resting on a bed of rich tobacco leaves and leather. Journey Woman 100ml, £245 and Journey Man 100ml, £225

ANNICK GOUTAL Eau d’Hadrien

Sharp and seductive, Eau d’Hadrien from Annick Goutal opens with a splash of Sicilian lemon and grapefruit. Underneath, cypress – added by Goutal to echo a Tuscan garden – weaves through crisp juniper berries and ylang-ylang. 100ml, £103

SERGE LUTENS L’incendiaire

From his latest collection Section d’Or, Serge Lutens’ L’incendiaire evokes elegance and luxury. Hypnotically incensey, the fragrance has a mysterious intensity that mirrors its maker.

50ml, £380

CLIVE CHRISTIAN Traveller Set

Decanting his exceptional Original Collection scents into three 10ml bottles, Clive Christian presents the Traveller Set, available in both women’s and men’s versions. No. 1, the world’s most expensive perfume, is an opulent blend of woody florals made with only the finest and rarest essential oils and precious ingredients. “X” is an exotic alternative, while 1872 is green with fresh citrus. 3 x 10ml, £185

ROBERT PIGUET Knightsbridge

Paying homage to Harrods, Robert Piguet’s Knightsbridge opens with regal rose. Underneath, a sumptuous heart of sandalwood and orris transitions into a rich base of aged leather and tonka bean.

100ml, ÂŁ150; exclusive to Harrods

PROMO T ION

ATKINSONS ose in Wonderland & L ocks

From the quintessentially British brand come Rose in Wonderland and Lavender on the Rocks. In the first, earthy facets are highlighted by vetiver and blackcurrant accords, while the second is a glacially cold cocktail that sees lavender cool its heart with an aromatic blend of basil and geranium.

100ml, £115 each

BOUCHERON Place Vendôme

What else would you expect from the jeweller of the City of Light than something dazzling? Boucheron’s Place Vendôme is a fusion of sparkling pink peppercorns, delicate orange blossom and narcotic jasmine notes, showcased in a glimmering flacon.

100ml, £80

CHLOÉ Eau de Parfum

Modern, romantic and light, Chloé’s playful fragrance gathers a bouquet of rose, magnolia and lily of the valley, then flirts with fresh peony and lychee notes. A liberating scent perfectly in tune with Chloé’s charming style. 75ml, £75

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PROMO T ION

BENTLEY For Men Absolute

Following in the tracks of Bentley’s For Men and For Men Azure, For Men Absolute leaves a trail of Atlas cedar and sandalwood, peppered with ginger and resinous frankincense. The latest model in Bentley’s seductive line. 100ml, £110

VALENTINO Valentina Oud Assoluto &V osa Assoluto

While still evoking the Italian roots of the Valentino brand, the magnificence and richness of original Valentina Assoluto has been reinterpreted in two new oriental blends. Valentina Oud Assoluto is rich with a velvety touch of oud and patchouli, while Valentina Rosa Assoluto unfurls with Taif roses.

Luxurious and sublime. Valentina Rosa Assoluto 80ml, £92 and Valentina Oud Assoluto 80ml, £90 Available from The Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor H A R RODS M AGA ZINE

NEWS

Spray you love me

Quick, light and fuss-free, sprays are fast becoming a must-have in our beauty regime.

Loaded with skin-loving ingredients, Caudalie’s Beauty Elixir is a refreshing beauty mist. Designed to minimise the appearance of pores and illuminate skin with grape extract, orange flower water and rose extract, the elixir can be sprayed onto cleansed skin before the addition of day cream.

So simple to use, Herra Hair Care’s Hair Perfume is a great way to get that freshly washed feeling every day. With a citrus aroma warmed with clean white-floral scents, the spray protects against UV rays. What’s more, glycerin seals in moisture. Totally worth it. From left Caudalie Beauty Elixir 100ml, £32; Herra Hair Perfume 50ml, £35, exclusive to Harrods. Available from Harrods Pharmacy, Lower Ground Floor

THE GOLD RUSH

Model Camera Press; rose petals Alamy

Rodial’s most concentrated anti-ageing complex yet has 10 key ingredients that act on the multiple signs of ageing. The roll call of actives includes bee venom to plump, plant stem cells to help increase elasticity, vitamin C to even out the skin, biomimetic growth factors to energise the complexion’s appearance and liquid gold for instant radiance. No wonder Rodial calls it the Ultimate Crème. 50ml, £750. Available from The Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor

WINTE WINNE

Doctor’s orders come in a Silver Gift Box from Dr Sebagh. The set includes the brand’s calming Rose de Vie Serum Délicat, with a generous dose of rosehip oil, and a Serum Repair to plump and help boost collagen levels. Then there are three Pure Vitamin C Powder Cream tubes with antioxidant action for brighter-looking skin. Feeling better already. £195.

Available from The Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor

MISS HEAVEN SCENT layers up for winter Whether it’s a blanket over a cashmere sweater or woolly socks over super-soft tights, deepest, darkest winter is when I love to layer up. This principle also applies to my fragrance – that is, not wearing lots of different fragrances all at once, but selecting individual scents that are rich and multi-layered. Why? Because when the temperature drops, a fragrance’s molecular structure effectively shrinks, which means the scent takes longer to unfold and is therefore harder to appreciate.

Come December and January, I opt for big, complex perfumes that have plenty of depth and can hold their own in harsh weather. This year an excellent contender is Parisian fragrance house Ex Nihilo’s Fleur Narcotique, which is, in its own words, a “floral overdose”. Strong top notes are allimportant in the cold because they have to work extra hard to make an impression; Fleur Narcotique opens with a robust accord of bergamot, lychee and peach that slowly makes way for jasmine, peony and orange blossom. The layers are given longevity with a base of woods, moss and musk. And the best part is that Ex Nihilo offers the opportunity to personalise the fragrance by selecting complementing notes to add to the original structure, meaning it can be as layered as you like.

The olfactory grandmaster of big and bold is, of course, Tom Ford.

And this winter his Private Blend Patchouli Absolu demonstrates FROM TOP Ex Nihilo Fleur layering in a different way. Ford Narcotique 50ml, £150, has used three types of patchouli exclusive to Harrods; Tom for the heart of the new fragrance; Ford Patchouli Absolu 50ml, patchouli oil, patchouli coeur £142; Narciso Rodriguez (the plant’s absolute extract), and For Her Amber Musc Oil Parfum 50ml, £150. Available a new incarnation of patchouli from The Perfumery Hall, called clearwood. Warm, intense, Ground Floor; Salon de enveloping and long-lasting, the Parfums, Sixth Floor; and fragrance slowly develops into harrods.com a patchouli reverie.

Narciso Rodriguez’s new For Her Amber Musc Oil Parfum, meanwhile, is a concentrated update of last year’s For Her Amber Musc Eau de Parfum Absolue. The layers of freesia, amber, musk, oud and vanilla are doubly intense, and the fragrance has the additional benefit of being an oil formulation. Apply it directly after a hot shower when skin is most receptive and you overcome the problem of a spray fragrance getting lost on lessscent-friendly winter skin.

– By Fleur Fruzza

SENSAI Ultimate The Concentrate

Restore and re-energise the look and feel of skin with Sensai’s The Concentrate. Vital L-Carnitine works to stimulate cell turnover, while Sakura Eternal Complex invigorates cell repair.

30ml, ÂŁ530

Prepare to PARTY

The Christmas season is never short on chances to mix and mingle, and proper prepping and pampering will set you up perfectly for painting the town red

PROMO T ION

EVE LOM Ultimate Collection

Giving its must-have Cleanser a team of helpers this Christmas, Eve Lom has created the Ultimate Collection. Transform your skin with the award-winning Cleanser, Muslin Cloth and Rescue Mask, complemented

by TLC Radiance Cream, Eye Cream and Kiss Mix. Complexion perfection. £175

MOLTON BROWN Oudh Accord & Gold Body Wash and Nourishing Body Lotion

Two precious ingredients come together in Molton Brown’s Oudh Accord & Gold bath and body collection. With their rich oudh scent, the body wash and lotion leave skin feeling soft and nourished all day.

Body Wash 300ml, £20 and Nourishing Body Lotion 300ml, £26

PROMO T ION

SHOW BEAUTY Pure Treatment Oil

Decorated with more than 800 Swarovski crystals, Show Beauty’s Pure Treatment Oil has been given a glamorous limitededition revamp for the party season. Rich in argan oil, the elixir is designed to strengthen and enhance elasticity, leaving hair looking bright and feeling rejuvenated. 60ml, £155; exclusive to Harrods

M2 BEAUTÉ Christmas Set

For a fabulous flutter, M2 Beauté’s Christmas Set contains Eyelash Activating Serum and Eyelash Revitalizing Gloss, designed to lengthen, thicken and condition lashes. £135

KIEHL’S Kiehl’s x Craig & Karl

Graphic artists Craig & Karl have given a Pop-Art makeover to a selection of Kiehl’s products. Almost too good to wrap up. Craig & Karl Ultra Facial Cream 50ml, £24, Calendula Herbal-Extract Toner 250ml, £34.50 and Creme de Corps 250ml, £27

CLARISONIC Clarisonic Aria

A brand lauded for its expertise in sonic skin-cleansing systems, Clarisonic has now created a special edition of the advanced Aria. The festive-season winterlace-print model comes with a super-gentle Cashmere Cleanse brush head. £155

Available from The Gentleman’s Lounge, Lower Ground Floor; The Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

PROV E NA NCE

FIELDS of DREAMS

It all comes down to reaping what you sow, and from land (purchased) to lab technology (perfected), Chanel has it covered BY

Q

uestion: What’s the most famous fragrance in the world? Answer: Chanel No. 5. It is, after all, the perfume that lays claim to being Marilyn Monroe’s bedmate.

While this fact is entrenched within the fragrance’s fame and popularity, Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel’s debut perfume had found renown long before Monroe, by dint of breaking every olfactory rule in the book. Created by perfumer Ernest Beaux in 1921, No. 5 was one of the first fragrances to be conceived by a fashion designer and was at the vanguard of those that included synthesised notes.

It also created a fantasy world via the medium of perfume.

In essence, No. 5 defined perfumery as we know it today.

So there you have it: No. 5 is super-famous. So many squillions of bottles are sold worldwide that production must be a well-automated, faceless process, right?

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Jasmine fields in

Grasse; harvesting the individual flowers; Rosa centifolia in bloom; Chanel No. 5 Parfum 30ml, £230

Actually, no. While in 1921 No. 5 was remarkable for its synthetic notes, today Chanel is distinguished by its cultivation of natural ingredients. That’s because, despite its global reach and ubiquitous presence, No. 5 Parfum (the closest formula to Beaux’s original) has a provenance that can be traced to fields in Pégomas, just outside perfume’s spiritual home of Grasse in the South of France. The fields are co-owned by Chanel and the Mul family, who have been farming there for five generations. The family now grows jasmine and roses exclusively for Chanel.

“Today it’s à la mode to talk about sustainable development,” says Christopher Sheldrake, Chanel Perfumer and Director of Research and Development.

“We don’t shout about it, but we’ve always done it. And we’ve always done it for ourselves; it has been the only way to achieve the right produce for our perfumes.”

The partnership between the brand and the Mul family began in 1987. At that time, jasmine only really came from Grasse, but as fields were sold and land developed, it was running out. Recognising this fact, Chanel’s Perfume Creator, Jacques Polge, decided that to preserve the quality and integrity of No. 5 Parfum, there was only one thing for it: Chanel had to buy the fields in which its jasmine and roses were being produced. By doing so, the brand was preserving not only a fragrance, but also a piece of history.

“Chanel perfumes rely on important ingredients from specific areas,” Sheldrake says. “We maintain and invest in these fields because the quality of the jasmine is so specific. I don’t like to say our jasmine is better than that from Egypt or India, but it’s definitely different. What I X HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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“The flowers are collected, weighed and the scent extracted within a few hours, which is an enormous advantage. The set-up we have here is the best I know” love about it is its green-tea freshness and sweetness – a little like strawberry jam. It has a real feminine sensuality; it has a mysterious night-time fragrance.”

The flowers are cultivated with scientific precision and an awful lot of love from the farmers. The process starts with Jasminum grandiflorum being grafted onto a more hardy jasmine root, which protects it during winter.

Then, in March of each year, the plants are cut down so that they can flourish again. Throughout, they are tended by the Mul family: nurtured, watered, dried and protected from environmental stressors, with no chemical fertilisers or pesticides allowed on the fields. This is a holistically organic process to the point where the flowers – once scent extraction has taken place – are cleaned and returned to the land as compost.

To see (not to mention smell) the jasmine harvest – which takes place over 100 days, starting in August – is quite magical. Each flower, once fully open, is picked by experts using a special technique that preserves it as much as possible. The carefully trained pickers start at 7am; by 1pm, they’re rushing their baskets of flowers to the on-site fragrance factory and laboratory, where the jasmine is processed immediately for maximum scent capture. “When you pick flowers and transport them, they automatically produce a lot of heat, which causes fermentation and unpleasant odours,” Sheldrake explains.

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Rosa centifolia

extraction; removing the flowers from the extraction machine; the jasmine concrete (left), that subsquently becomes the absolute (right)

“Here, the flowers are collected, weighed and the scent extracted within a few hours, which is an enormous advantage. The set-up we have here is the best I know.”

The laboratory – with its elaborate extraction process – has shades of Hogwarts, with cauldrons of jasmine flowers next to bubbling potions in big bulb flasks.

Because, put simply, jasmine doesn’t produce an essential oil, its fragrance molecules are extracted using a solvent wash, then effectively trapped in the flower’s own vegetable fats, forming a substance that’s known as the concrete, or wax. This is mixed with alcohol to create a diluted formula which, after three days, becomes the absolute. Filtered to evaporate the alcohol, this highly concentrated ingredient is used in the eventual parfum.

To give a little context, a three-month harvest generates between eight and 10 tonnes of jasmine. Seven million flowers, picked one at a time, produce just 1kg of absolute.

It makes you think rather differently about each spritz.

Out in the fields, nothing can replace the old-fashioned expertise of human hands, but in the laboratory, technology is key and Chanel is keen to be several steps ahead of the competition – and stay there. “We’re so rigorous about keeping our laboratory up to date with the latest extraction technology that we were recently asked to work on international research projects,” Sheldrake says. “We’ve helped in identifying perfumerelated allergens, for example, and are working out new techniques to recognise pesticides. We’re a comparatively small organisation, but we’re very informed.”

So what can Sheldrake divulge about the future of these processes and, ultimately, what this means for the fragrance we enjoy? “We’re trying out some avantgarde techniques that produce different qualities in the final scent,” he says. “For example, we’re experimenting with an enormous microwave that heats vegetation, evaporating and collecting the volatile matter, which then becomes an essential oil. We also have some experiments that I can’t talk about because they’re very cutting edge.

For instance, we’ve tested our tuberose with a secret new technique. Normally, when you extract from a flower, the freshest elements can get a little lost along the way; but with this new process we capture the exact smell of the flower – it’s very exciting.”

Despite all the technology, however, the No. 5 Parfum formula is, and always will be, at the mercy of Mother Nature, as the pivotal elements in the process are the August jasmine harvest and the rose harvest that precedes it. With 1,000 jasmine flowers and 12 roses in each 30ml bottle, Chanel is only ever going to be able to produce a finite amount, and while the company has never run out, Sheldrake quite likes the idea that it could.

After all, isn’t ephemerality part of what makes fragrance so magical? HMN Fleur Fruzza writes for Women’s Health and Glass magazine Available from The Colour, Cosmetics and Perfumery Halls, Ground Floor; Salon de Parfums, Sixth Floor; and harrods.com

All that GLISTENS

Gold. Think of it as adornment for the skin.

An accent. An accessory for radiating charm

BY J F

S

D

A

BE AU T Y

GLOW FOR IT

The ultimate illuminator, gold can be worn alone as eye shadow or on the top of the cheekbones to shape and sculpt. Try brushing it through brows for extra drama and use glimmery lip gloss as a nude with attitude.

BEAUTY Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Foundation £36 and Sun Fabric Bronzer £50; Crème de la Mer Illuminating Powder £65; Chanel Illusion d’Ombre in Mirage £25; Lancôme Parisian Lights Palette £37; Dolce & Gabbana Intense Liquid Eyeliner in Baroque Gold £24.50; Shu Uemura Petal Lash Mascara £20; Guerlain Gloss d’Enfer in L’Oiseau de Feu £22.50; Dior Vernis nail varnish in Pied-de-Poule £18.50; FASHION Diane von Furstenberg dress £1,225

BE AU T Y

JUST LIKE STARDUST

Christmas is a time when fairytale sparkle is not just allowed, it’s positively encouraged. Keep skin luminous, add a scattering of glitter, then make a wish.

BEAUTY Laura Mercier Tinted Moisturizer Illuminating in Bare Radiance £34; Chantecaille Radiance Gel Bronzer £51; Giorgio Armani Sun Fabric Bronzer £50; Clinique Chubby Stick Shadow Tint for Eyes in Grandest Gold £17; Swarovski crystals (applied with eyelash glue) from a selection; MAC Glitter in Gold £17; FASHION Ports 1961 dress £750

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BE AU T Y

MIDAS TOUCH

Bring embellishment into the golden equation with bold eyeliner in crayon or gold leaf.

Pair with red lips and nails – but, for a contemporary feel, be sure to select a scarlet lipstick that’s not shiny. Another tip to stay modern? Hold back on black.

BEAUTY Clinique Up-lighting Liquid Illuminator in Bronze £22; Dolce & Gabbana Intense Liquid Eyeliner in Baroque Gold £24.50; Squires Kitchen Gold Leaf Flake £4.95; Chanel Rouge Allure Velvet lipstick in La Flamboyante £26 and Le Vernis nail varnish in Rouge Flamboyante £18; FASHION Diane von Furstenberg dress £1,499; Alexander McQueen necklace £255

HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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BE AU T Y

RICH LIST

Purple is the regal bedfellow of gold, and the reason these shades are so drop-dead luscious together is because purple and yellow are complementary on the colour wheel. Wear with a boyish brow to maintain modernity.

BEAUTY Burberry Fresh Glow in Nude Radiance £30; Chanel Camélia de Plumes Illuminating Powder £47 and Les 5 Ombres de Chanel Oiseaux de Nuit £40; Sisley Hydrating Long Lasting Lipstick in L24 £34; Dolce & Gabbana Intense Liquid Eyeliner in Baroque Gold (used on lips) £24.50; Deborah Lippmann nail varnish in Autumn in New York £18; FASHION Alice by Temperley dress £595; Annoushka ring £220

Hair FEDERICO GHEZZI at CLM using Kiehl’s Make-up SHARON DOWSETT at CLM for Chanel Nails AMA QUASHIE at CLM Model VALERIJA SESTIC at Select Make-up Assistant LUCY PEARSON Photographer’s Assistant ALEX CRADDOCK Fashion Intern TRINA OUTRAM Available from Luxury Accessories, Lower Ground Floor; The Beauty Apothecary, The Colour and Cosmetics Halls and Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; Eveningwear and Studio, First Floor; Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor; and harrods.com

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Starter’s orders

As the quintessential Christmas Day treat, superior smoked salmon is truly something to savour

BY PAT

ICK MCGUIGAN PHOTOG APHE PETE CASSIDY FOOD STYLIN ECIPES EMMA MA SDEN

Rosenthal TAC Silhouette 16cm plate £22.95; Villeroy & Boch Notting Hill fork £14.50; Thomas Ferguson Fine Scroll tablecloth from £419 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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hristmas morning would not be complete without smoked salmon and Champagne.

Once the stockings have been opened, there’s no better way to get the festive fun and family feasting going than with the pop of a cork and one of Scotland’s finest delicacies. But deciding which fish to pair with your fizz is more complicated than you might think. Not all smoked salmon is created equal, with big differences in flavour and texture depending on how it is made. Many large industrial producers employ an array of tricks and short cuts to reduce costs and speed up production, but do not have to declare them on the packaging. Practices include buying low-grade fish from foreign waters, and even spraying the fillets with liquid smoke flavourings. The resulting products might appear to be a bargain, but their pappy texture and harsh flavour will disappoint. Good smoked salmon, on the other hand, has a smooth but firm consistency and a delicate balance of salt, smoke and fish, which can only be achieved with time and care.

Aberdeen producer John Ross Jr understands this better than almost anyone. Named after a 19th-century pioneer of fish-curing techniques, the company has been making smoked salmon for more than 25 years using traditional brick kilns that date back to 1857. Sides of prime Scottish salmon are gently smoked over oak and beech chippings in dark chambers for up to 24 hours, producing a deep, authentic flavour.

“The insides of the kilns have built up so much tar over time that they produce a natural aroma that can’t be matched by modern steel equipment,” explains Sales Director Vicky Leigh, who runs the business with her brother Chris and father Andrew. “We hang the salmon high above the smouldering wood chips, which allows the smoke to gently penetrate the whole fish. Most producers lay them flat on grills with smoke funnelled in to maximise the capacity. It just doesn’t compare.”

Unlike producers who import cheap fish from Norway, the company uses top-grade salmon from RSPCA-monitored Freedom Food farms in northwest Scotland, where the fish swim in cold, clear Atlantic waters. Low stocking densities in the pens mean the fish are well exercised and lean, which helps give the final product a firm yet silky quality, Leigh says.

Filleting machines are commonplace across the industry, but the job is still done by hand at John Ross Jr. A team of skilled workers, with protective chain-mail gloves on one hand and long knives in the other, work with remarkable speed and dexterity, stripping the fillets from the 75cm-long fish with little more than a few flicks of the wrist.

“We’re one of very few smoked-salmon companies with an in-house filleting team,” says Leigh. “It enables us to closely inspect the quality of the fish coming in and also gives a much cleaner cut to the salmon. You don’t get the raggedy lines you would if the fish were juddering through a filleting machine.”

Consideration also goes into the curing stage before the fish is smoked. While big producers might soak the

C

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TOP Riedel Veritas Champagne glass £55 for set of two; Rosenthal TAC Silhouette 16cm plate £22.95; ABOVE The salmon fillets are hung high above smouldering wood chippings for a more natural smoked flavour

salmon in brine, which is quick and adds yield by plumping up the flesh by as much as 10 per cent, John Ross Jr continues to use a dry cure. Sea salt and a little sugar are rubbed into the fish by hand to ensure an even distribution; the salmon is then left to slowly cure for a period of eight hours, with the salt actually drawing moisture from the fillets, improving the final result.

It’s this kind of attention to detail and commitment to traditional techniques that has won the company a loyal following among chefs across the world, as well as a Royal Warrant of Appointment to Her Majesty the Queen. Leigh won’t give anything away on whether smoked salmon is served at the royal breakfast table on Christmas Day. “I couldn’t possibly comment, but one would like to think so,” is all she will say. But smoked salmon is definitely a big part of the Leigh family’s festive celebrations. They have smoked salmon for breakfast with lemon, black pepper and caper berries, plus a glass of Champagne.

They also serve a whole unsliced side straight from the kiln before Christmas dinner. “My father or brother like to carve it at the table, and there’s always plenty to go round,” she says. “I was virtually weaned on my family’s smoked salmon, but I still can’t get enough of it.” HMN Smoked salmon available from Food Halls, Ground Floor. Homewares available from Entertaining at Home and Villeroy & Boch, Second Floor Patrick McGuigan writes for Square Meal, ShortList and Restaurant

WILD-RICE KEDGEREE Serves 4

25g butter 2 tsp olive oil 4–5 shallots, finely chopped ¼ tsp each turmeric, chilli powder, ground cumin, ground coriander, white pepper 200g mixed basmati and wild rice 6–8 quails’ eggs 100g smoked salmon, torn into strips 175g hot smoked salmon, flaked 100g brown shrimps 50g smoked salmon to garnish 2 tbsp freshly chopped parsley Pinch chilli powder (optional)

1 Melt the butter and oil in a pan, then gently sauté the shallots for 5 minutes until they start to soften. Stir in the spices with a large pinch of salt, add the rice and 500ml boiling water, and season well. Cover, bring to the boil, then turn the heat right down and simmer very gently for 20 minutes.

2 Cook the quails’ eggs in a pan of boiling water for 45 seconds to 1½ minutes (depending on how hard boiled you like them), then plunge into a bowl of cold water to cool quickly. Peel off the shells.

3 Once the rice is cooked, use a fork to separate the grains, then stir in the smoked salmon strips, hot smoked salmon, brown shrimps and parsley.

4 Divide among four plates, then top with the extra smoked salmon and the eggs. For a slightly spicier kedgeree, sprinkle over a little chilli powder.

Serve with...

Joseph Voillot Bourgogne Rouge Vieilles Vignes 2012, France, £26.95 Rosenthal TAC Gropius White 28cm plate £42.95, 24cm plate deep £32.95 and cup & saucer £27.95; Villeroy & Boch Notting Hill fork £14.50

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SMOKED SALMON AND HOT POTATO POSH HASH Serves 4

For the horseradish mayonnaise 2 egg yolks 200ml light olive oil 1 tsp grated horseradish Juice of ¼ lemon 600g new potatoes, peeled 100g kale, finely chopped 1 small romanesco cauliflower, cut into florets 2 tbsp olive oil 1 red onion, finely sliced 1 tsp ground coriander 100g smoked salmon, cut into strips 1 lemon, cut into wedges, to serve

Serve with...

1 To make the mayonnaise, whisk the egg yolks with a balloon whisk or electric hand whisk to break them down. Add a drop of the oil and whisk in; then add the rest of the oil very gradually until the mixture emulsifies and thickens. Stir in the horseradish and lemon juice, then season with a little salt.

2 Cook the potatoes in boiling, salted water for 10 minutes until just tender, adding the kale and cauliflower for the last 3 minutes. Remove the kale and cauliflower with a slotted spoon to drain, then set aside. Drain the potatoes and slice into wedges.

3 Heat the oil in a pan and stir-fry the red onion for 5 minutes over a medium heat until it starts to soften and turn golden. Stir in the coriander, add all the cooked vegetables and season well. Cook for 5–10 minutes until the edges of the potatoes crisp up and turn golden.

4 Gently fold in 50g smoked salmon, then divide the mixture among four plates.

5 Top with the remaining smoked salmon, along with a spoonful of mayonnaise, and serve with the lemon wedges.

Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2005, France, £185

Ruffoni 16cm saucepan £47.95; Rosenthal TAC Gropius White bowl £15.95; Alexandre Turpault napkin £24.95

FOOD

BAKED EGGS BRIOCHE WITH A PIQUANT SMOKED SALMON DRESSING Serves 4 4 brioche buns 4 medium eggs For the dressing 1 shallot, finely chopped Juice of ¼ lemon 3 tsp non-pareil capers in vinegar 3 cornichons, finely chopped 100g smoked salmon, finely chopped 3 tsp finely chopped chives

Serve with...

Charles Heidsieck Rosé Millésime 1999, France, £84.95

1 Preheat the oven to 190°C/375°F/Gas 5. Line an oven tray with baking parchment.

2 Slice the tops off the brioche buns, then scoop a large spoonful out from the inside of each base.

Place the bases on the tray and crack an egg into each hole, adding enough white to fill to the top.

3 Bake for around 20 minutes until the white is set – the yolk should be firm on top, but still runny inside. About halfway through, place the brioche “lids” on the baking sheet in the oven.

4 Put the shallot in a bowl with the lemon juice and 1 teaspoon vinegar from the jar of capers. Set aside to marinate.

5 When the egg is cooked, drain the shallots, then combine with the capers, cornichons, smoked salmon and 2 teaspoons chives, and season well.

6 Divide the mixture evenly among four large spoons and place each spoon on a plate. Put one baked brioche, with its lid, onto each of the plates, sprinkle with the remaining chives, and serve.

SMOKED SALMON MOUSSE WITH SALMON EGGS AND DILL Serves 4 250g sliced smoked salmon ½ apple 175g cream cheese Zest of ½ lemon ¼ tsp paprika 1 tbsp freshly chopped dill, plus extra sprigs to garnish 1 egg white 4 tsp crème fraîche 4 tsp salmon eggs Slices of apple to serve For the toast curls 4 slices seeded bread

Serve with...

Laurent-Perrier Ultra Brut NV, France, £59.95

1 Oil four 150ml ramekins. Line each one with clingfilm, leaving 1cm of clingfilm hanging over the edge. Repeat with 50g smoked salmon per dish; again, leave some hanging over. Chill in the fridge.

2 Grate ¼ apple into a bowl. Chop the remaining salmon and add, along with the cream cheese, lemon zest, paprika and chopped dill. Season well and beat together with a wooden spoon.

3 Whisk the egg white until stiff and fold into the cream-cheese mixture, one spoonful first, followed by the rest. Divide this among the ramekins, then fold the salmon over the top, followed by the clingfilm. This can be done up to a day ahead.

4 For the toast curls, toast the bread, then remove the crusts and slice horizontally through the middle to make two thin squares. Scrape off any doughy bread from the untoasted sides, cut each square in half diagonally and gently grill the untoasted sides until the bread has curled up. Cool, then store in an airtight container (for up to three days).

5 To serve, unwrap the clingfilm and turn out each canapé onto a plate. Grate the rest of the apple or slice into matchsticks. On each parcel, place a spoonful of crème fraîche, the salmon eggs, a little apple and a sprig of dill, and serve with the toasts.

Rosenthal TAC Gropius Skin Silhouette 22cm plate £27.95 and 16cm plate £22.95 and White bowl £15.95; Thomas Ferguson Fine Scroll tablecloth from £419 Rosenthal TAC Gropius Skin Silhouette 22cm plate £27.95; L’Objet Sois Tressée Chinese spoon £20; Alexandre Turpault napkin £24.95

Wine available from The Wine Rooms, Lower Ground Floor; Homewares available from Cookshop, Entertaining at Home and Luxury Home, Second Floor; and harrods.com HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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The CHAMPAGNE

Poilâne sourdough loaf £11.15

Mara Seaweed Kombu 50g, £4.95

San Román Saffron Honey 250g, £10.95

Perrier Jouët 2004 Champagne Brut Belle Époque Rosé 75cl, £205

Gosset Champagne Brut Grand Millésime 2000 75cl, £74.95

Zucceroo Gold Edition salt £17.95 and pepper £16.95

FIZZ the season

Atkins & Potts Fiery Wasabi Mayonnaise 195g, £3.95

The Fine Cheese Co. Extra Virgin Olive Oil and Sea Salt Crackers 150g, £2.95

Harrods Horseradish Sauce 170g, £4.25

Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Rosé NV 75cl, £62.95

Sturia Origin Caviar 30g, £75

Available from The Wine Rooms, Lower Ground Floor; Food Halls, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

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Salmon photograph Peter Cassidy; food styling Emma Marsden

Neal’s Yard Organic Crème Fraîche 340g, £5.50

Smoked salmon, plus Champagne and some tasty accompaniments, makes Christmas extra-merry

Q&A

Food FANATIC

An early convert to the art of cooking, Chef of the Season Tom Aikens can’t keep out of the kitchen, whether in-store or at home BY

ANDY BATE

At just eight years old, Tom Aikens already had a good understanding of food. Much of his childhood was spent helping his mother in the kitchen or, thanks to his father’s job as a wine merchant, travelling around France with his family. It was on those trips that Aikens refined his palate and developed his culinary appreciation, and, aged 16, he enrolled at the City College Norwich Hotel School.

After graduating, he honed his skills in the kitchens of Paris. Returning to the UK, he became Head Chef at Pied à Terre and subsequently the youngest-ever Briton (at 26) to be awarded two Michelin stars; he now runs his own informal chain of cafés, Tom’s Kitchen, and is Harrods Chef of the Season for winter, creating some of his best-loved dishes for customers to take home and enjoy.

You started cooking professionally very young.

Would you recommend that as a route to becoming a successful chef?

I think if you want to succeed at anything, it’s always best to start early. I knew at 13 I wanted to be a chef, so I enrolled in college at 16, then began working in the trade at 18. I was nervous to begin with, but also very excited.

Who inspires you?

I trained with predominantly French chefs, including Pierre Koffman and Jöel Robuchon. Their food is very different in style: Pierre cooks classical, hearty dishes, whereas Jöel creates delicate and intricate dishes – he always takes great care with the presentation and garnishes.

Can you describe your own cooking style?

I have two styles really. At Tom’s Kitchen, the food is more like home cooking – two or three simple ingredients. My other style is more Michelin – more intricate and elaborate.

How do you think the view of Michelin-starred restaurants has changed in recent years?

In the past, Michelin-starred venues were seen as quite stuffy. That has definitely changed. Restaurants are now a lot more relaxed because that’s what people want. Take the River Café – it doesn’t feel like a Michelin-starred restaurant because it’s very informal. The days of stiff butlers and waiters are long gone.

Tell us about the produce you use at your restaurants…

We source everything direct from the suppliers and it’s nice to have those relationships. We like being able to tell our customers the story of where the meat or fish comes from.

What food can we expect from you in Harrods?

We’ll be making classic dishes that are popular at Tom’s Kitchen – our favourite starters, mains and desserts.

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Tom Aikens with his root-vegetable mash and venison casserole. Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor

Before Christmas we’re also making some special canapés, including a turkey rillette and beetroot-cured salmon.

Then in the new year I’ll be doing warming winter dishes, such as spicy crab cakes, braised beef cheeks, and apple and Calvados tart.

What key ingredients do you always have at home?

Maldon sea salt, and oils and vinegars for cooking and dressing salads. I also have lots of condiments – a goodquality balsamic, Champagne vinegar, tarragon vinegar.

How do you relax?

I cook at home. I like cooking at the weekends with my daughters. Or we have friends over and I cook for them.

In terms of food, do you have any guilty pleasures?

I love tucking into a big bowl of vanilla ice cream.

What’s next for you?

I have a few projects in the pipeline. I’m trying to do something with my twin brother, who’s a chef in New York.

What would you be doing if you weren’t a chef?

I think I would probably do something in another creative field. I’ve always loved doing something with my hands like art or drawing. Or I might have done something sporty – I really like running and cycling. HMN X COOK Download the Harrods Magazine app for a cookery demo with Tom Aikens

Prop stylist Jennifer Kay

The chosen few

Selecting a Christmas cheeseboard is an art. Creamy Stiltons, strong Cheddars, or decadent, truffle-infused Bries: what will make the cut?

BY FIONA BECKETT /

JONA

FOOD STYLIST

CHEESES IN BACKGROUND Vacherin mont d’or 360g, £11.95 and 550g, £16.95; Lord of Whisky £5.50 per 100g; ON CHEESEBOARD Blu ’61, £6 per 100g; aged Red Leicester £2.20 per 100g; cave-aged Gruyère £3.20 per 100g; CHEESE ACCOMPANIMENTS Pomegranates £5.95 each; dates from £37.50 per kg; The Fine Cheese Co. Walnut Oaten Biscuits 175g, £3.50; HOMEWARES Laguiole olive-wood cheese knife £99.95 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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FOOD, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT

The Fine Cheese Co. Walnut Oaten Biscuits 175g, £3.50; Caprissima with white truffle oil £3.95 each; Brillat Savarin with truffle £250g, £11.25; petit grès d’Alsace with truffle 125g, £6.95; figs £2.50 per 100g; pecorino Moliterno with truffle £6 per 100g; Maison de la Truffe Summer Truffle Breadsticks 120g, £6.95; Brie de Meaux with truffle £6.20 per 100g; HOMEWARES Laguiole olive-wood cheese knife £99.95 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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Win a luxury CHRISTMAS TREE Show off your seasonal styling talents with our tree-decorating game, Never Mind the Baubles, for a chance to win a Harrods Christmas tree and a £500 gift card.

To play, download the free Harrods Magazine app’s Christmas Special – full of magical gift ideas, gourmet festive foods and more.

WINE

ising to the top Creamy vintage Champagne isn’t the only great wine to enjoy at Christmas, when port, sherry and Sauternes all come to the party

BY GUY WOODWA

D / PHOTOG APHE JONATHAN G EGSON SDEN

Prop stylist Jennifer Kay

FOOD STYLING EMMA MA

CHAMPAGNES, FROM LEFT Billecart-Salmon Le Clos Saint

Hilaire Blanc de Noirs Brut 1998, £295; Piper-Heidsieck Rare Millésime Brut 1998, £395 (magnum); Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs 2005, £185; FOOD Canapés from a selection by Tom Aikens; HOMEWARES Greggio Inglese coasters £35 each and tray £130; Riedel Sommelier Vintage Champagne flutes £75 each HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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t the dining table, under the tree or on the sofa, Christmas is inevitably a time for indulgence. Be it a ridiculously huge dinner, an unfeasibly large diamond or a back-to-back triple bill of Bond films, pleasures come guilt-free. And nowhere is this licence to spoil ourselves more evident than in the glass, where the freedom to indulge is reflected in the types of wines that we tend to drink. Whereas sweet and fortified wines are generally reserved for pre- and post-dinner formalities, at Christmas we think nothing of popping the cork on a sherry as we open the presents, or on a port to accompany the Queen’s speech.

There’s no more indulgent wine than Champagne and here, too, the stakes are raised. The first decision to be made when selecting the bubbles for Christmas morning is: which vintage? With its extended ageing and exacting sourcing, vintage Champagne delivers a biscuity creaminess that’s rarely replicated by other sparkling wines. With that in mind, Piper-Heidsieck Rare Millésime Brut, from 1998, is an apposite choice, its show-stopping status upped a notch by serving it from a magnum. Billecart-Salmon Le Clos Saint Hilaire Blanc de Noirs Brut, from the same vintage, will deliver similarly yeasty, brioche-tinged loveliness.

The latest release from that most reliable and consistent of houses, Charles Heidsieck, is the Millésime 2005 (£74.95), a blend of grapes from 11 crus that form the cornerstone of the rich house style, and a lasting legacy to the late Thierry Roset, Heidsieck’s Chef de Cave who died suddenly earlier this year. Meanwhile, Taittinger has released the 2005 vintage of its Comtes de Champagne, made exclusively from Chardonnay; it is a fine Champagne, with elegance and finesse.

If there’s a wine that’s perfect for a mid-morning aperitif, though, and something with which to start Christmas Day’s endless grazing, it’s surely sherry. It should be dry sherry, of course – for which read fino (the palest, lightest of sherries, bone dry and with a touch of salinity) or, perhaps, amontillado (slightly richer, with nutty overtones). And if sherry is about elevenses, port is the perfect preface to

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WINES, FROM LEFT

Kopke 30 Years Old Port £74.95; Sanchez Romate NPU Amontillado Sherry £19.95; Tokaj Classic Winery, Andras & Phyllis Bruhacs, Mad: Tokaj Aszu 6 Puttonyos 1999, £65; Fernando de Castilla Antique Fino Sherry £23.95; De Bortoli Noble One Botrytis Semillon 2009, £36.50; GLASSWARE, FROM LEFT Riedel Vinum

Port glass £45 per pair, Vinum Sauvignon Blanc glass £45 per pair and Sommeliers Sauternes glass £75 Available from The Wine Rooms, Lower Ground Floor; and Entertaining at Home and Luxury Home, Second Floor

the post-lunch slumber – this is not a drink to be rushed.

Reason, then, to turn to the oldest port producer, Kopke, which dates back to 1638, and whose 30 Years Old Port exudes notes of dried fruit with honey and vanilla tones.

Fortified wines such as port and sherry are, as the name implies, bolstered by the addition of a distilled spirit, thus lending extra alcoholic strength. Sweet wines, on the other hand, generally gain their sweetness from grapes that are left longer on the vine, in many cases until they develop a form of mould known as botrytis. This fungus, also known as “noble rot”, concentrates the sugar, less of which is then fermented into alcohol, ultimately transforming it into a glorious sweetness.

Being lighter in alcohol than fortified wines, “stickies” offer a perfect complement to a cheeseboard, particularly one rich with salty, tangy blue cheeses. Tokaj is a classic example; the historic Hungarian sweet wine is a favourite of royalty, aristocracy and artists down the years. Dating back to the 17th century, the vineyards of Tokaj were classified long before the more famous 1855 classification of Bordeaux, and gained such renown that the wine is name-checked in the Hungarian national anthem. Tokaj Classic Winery’s 6 Puttonyos 1999 (a “puttony” being a unit of sweetness, with six being the highest) delivers a rich concoction of dried apricots and candied citrus fruits.

Australia, too, is a fine – if more recent – source of sweet wines; its botrytised semillons are particularly notable and De Bortoli is arguably the standout name on account of its Noble One, the 2009 delivering a mixture of exotic fruit on the palate. If, on the other hand, you’re after an Australian “port”, Penfolds’ Father Grand Tawny (£19.95) is a brighter, more fruity rendition than the original.

It is in Bordeaux, however, that the world’s most famous sweet wine – Sauternes – is made, also from the semillon grape; and it remains arguably the most renowned cheese match. Cyprès de Climens 2011 is a classic example: a wine that delivers both unctuous sweetness and racy acidity. It also comes in a rather beautiful gift box, providing an opportunity to extend the vinous indulgence into the new year. HMN

NEWS

Se son

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Novel nibbles

Patisserie doesn’t have to be sweet. This year, some classics have been transformed with savoury ingredients – notably in a range of éclairs, from cream cheese with balsamic glaze to foie gras and fig. Salmon is the star of the show, though, in these devilish delights. The potato cake features salmon infused with fresh beetroot and topped with pea shoots, crème frâiche and caviar.

The salmon gâteau, meanwhile, has layers of Severn & Wye smoked salmon, delicate crêpes and light smoked-salmon mousse decorated with avruga and salmon caviar and cream-cheese “icing”. Potato cake £7.95; salmon gâteau £9.95 per slice.

Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor

Chestnuts With their high starch content and smooth, hearty flavour, chestnuts are a good alternative to potatoes. They can be eaten raw or roasted for a winter-warming snack.

SHINE ON

Over five months, a quintet of Italy’s top chefs have each been taking a month’s residency at the starriest of in-store pop-ups: Stelle di Stelle. The chefs represent restaurants with 13 Michelin stars among them – but don’t worry if you’ve missed out; there are still two to come, starting with Enoteca Pinchiorri in December. The Florence restaurant was set up by Giorgio Pinchiorri as a wine bar in 1972. Two years later his wife, French-born Annie Féolde, started serving food there, and 20 years on, she became the first female chef in Italy to earn three Michelin stars. Stelle di Stelle, Lower Ground Floor.

For bookings, call 020 7893 8700 or email stelle.di.stelle@harrods.com

Cranberries The small red “superfruit” berry has an impressive antioxidant content. Its tart flavour works well in sauces with roast dinners, or in sweet pies.

We all know about appellations of origin for fine wines and cheeses, but what about honey? Vasiliki Melitheon Greek honey is a 100 per cent raw, unadulterated product. Thyme nectar, heather, maple and tea contribute to its flavour and therapeutic properties. Melitheon Vanilia honey, meanwhile, is produced in limited quantities at an altitude of 1,500m in the mountains of Mainalon in the Peloponnese. Made from fir trees, it has a creamy texture and a butterscotch taste – and fir tree honey is also the only Greek honey to carry a Protected Designation of Origin classification. Set of two £49.95, exclusive to Harrods. Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor

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Blood oranges The crimson-fleshed blood orange has a higher vitamin C content than a regular orange. With a sharp raspberry-like flavour, it is delicious eaten either as it is or made into a sorbet.

Réunion mangoes Grown in the French Indian Ocean island of Réunion, the yellow mango is lovely and sweet; it is traditionally eaten sliced, and seasoned with salt and chilli peppers.

Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor

Mango Getty Images; all other produce iStock

OH, HONEY

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White truffles Truffle season is considered the highlight of the culinary calendar. The prized white truffle – a speciality of the Piedmont region of northern Italy – is delicious shaved over pasta.

LIFEST YLE

MAGICAL FOREST

Green noble pine tree from £249; Squint Antique rocking horse £1,400; Harrods box of 8 Magical Forest crackers £120; baubles on tree from a selection

ockin’ around the Christmas tree

Beautiful decorations not only conjure magic this Christmas; they’re keepers for generations to come HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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ICE PRINCESS

ABOVE LEFT Snowy Alaskan pre-lit tree from £299; Squint Antique rocking horse £2,000; Eliot Raffit grande winter sleigh £199, exclusive to Harrods; Harrods box of 6 Ice Princess Christmas crackers £99.95, exclusive to Harrods; fairy snow globe £22.95; Cinderella collection set £199; Eliot Raffit bejewelled tree £599, exclusive to Harrods; iridescent pine-cone decoration from £11.95, exclusive to Harrods; baubles on tree from a selection; ABOVE RIGHT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Cupcake and dome decoration £24.95; squirrel decoration £14.95; lace ball tree topper £27.95; clear & white decoration £11.95

HYPER-LUXE

ABOVE LEFT Green noble pine Christmas tree from £249; Sudha Pennathur embellished tree skirt £699, exclusive to Harrods; baubles on tree from a selection; ABOVE RIGHT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Decorative tree topper £39.95; Elias Glass Studio drop glass decoration £39.95, exclusive to Harrods; golden sequin

decoration £16.95; musical decorative egg £199

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BALMORAL

ABOVE LEFT Green grove mountain tree from £279; musical wooden advent calendar £169; Harrods box of 6 Balmoral Christmas crackers £99.95; Gisela Graham fox family from £15.95; baubles on tree from a selection; ABOVE RIGHT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Grace & Favour scented postage stamp decoration £6.95, exclusive to Harrods; SJM squirrel and acorn decoration set £14.95; Wedgwood snowflake bauble £44.95; clip-on bird decoration £14.95

HIDEAWAY

ABOVE LEFT Blue noblis fir tree from £189; reindeer rug £249, exclusive to Harrods; natural wood tree £49.95; baubles on tree from a selection; ABOVE RIGHT, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT Woodland mushroom £4.95; golden star from £18.95; golden acorn £4.95; crackle stone bauble £4.95 Available from Christmas at Home, Second Floor

X PLAY Download the Harrods Magazine app Have fun with our tree-decorating game HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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COOKING MASTERCLASSES International homewares brands including Kai, Miele and Wüsthof will be demonstrating how to perfect the perennial Christmas treat: smoked salmon

Cuisinart Friday 5th December; 12pm–5pm Known for taking the hassle out of cooking, US brand Cuisinart will have experts cooking up fuss-free salmon frittatas using the Sandwich Maker.

Miele Friday 5th December; 12pm–5pm Chefs from German kitchen giant Miele will be baking the perfect Christmas canapé: blinis topped with smoked salmon and dill.

KitchenAid Saturday 6th and Sunday 7th December; 11.30am–4pm The appliance of choice for The Great British Bake Off, the KitchenAid Artisan mixer will be put to the test to make salmon en croûte with a salsa salad garnish.

Sage Friday 12th, Saturday 13th and Sunday 14th December; 11.30am–6pm With the help of Heston Blumenthal, Sage has created a range of appliances that bring the expertise of a professional kitchen into the home. Using the Boss blender, Sage chefs will be whipping up a smoked-salmon mousse.

Wüsthof Saturday 13th December; 12pm–5pm True to its German roots, Wüsthof is all about quality and functionality. Experts from the brand will demonstrate the Classic Salmon Slicer, which is ideal for preparing hors d’oeuvres.

Kai Saturday 20th December; 12pm–5pm With a history of making Samurai swords, Kai knows the art of a good knife. Its trained sushi chefs will be demonstrating how to slice the perfect salmon cuts to make Temari sushi and salmon hand rolls.

Vitamix Saturday 27th, Monday 29th and Tuesday 30th December; 10am–7pm; Sunday 28th December, 11.30am–6pm Using the exceptionally speedy Professional Series 750 Blender, the team at Vitamix will be whizzing up a lemon-infused salmon mousse.

For more information, please call 020 7730 1234 and ask for The Cookshop. Please note, these are not ticketed events.

NEWS

SHINING BRIGHT

Mirror, mirror on the wall, which is the fairiest light of all? Inspired by the magic of fairy tales, the Uovo chandelier by Lasvit is a glowing example of cutting-edge glasswork.

Designed by Czech designer Rony Plesl, the vast light sculpture is made up of 124 individually hand-blown egg-like forms.

With a silver or gold finish, the mirrored luminaire creates incredible reflections and shadows sure to enchant. £15,839. Available from Classics Room, Third Floor

FULL house

It’s an Advent calendar to top them all. The limited-edition Wedgwood Advent House, based on a stately Georgian home, incorporates windows that each conceal a delicate porcelain ornament. Traditional snowflakes and wreaths are joined by miniature tributes to celebrated Wedgwood pieces: both Portland and Borghese vases are transformed into intricate baubles complete with friezes. With hand-painted Wedgwood-blue nooks in which to display decorations, the Advent House is quite the Christmas centrepiece. £12,000.

Available from Wedgwood & Waterford Crystal, Second Floor

NEVER MIND THE BAUBLES

Indian inspiration Award-winning designer Bethan Gray has explored her ancestral heritage, which tracks back to Rajasthan, in her latest venture: a tableware collaboration with Indian-based Saray Design. Working with artisans in Jaipur, the socially constructive partnership helps to maintain traditional craftwork in the area. Inspired by the decorative doors of Persian palaces and the light of the East, the colourful Ruby Tree collection includes patterned bowls, tables and incense burners, all handmade from marble and precious stones. From £900. Available from Classics Room, Third Floor

Garlands, baubles, lights and stars; with so much to choose from, deciding how to decorate your tree can be tricky. Luckily the Harrods Magazine app has it sorted.

The Never Mind the Baubles game lets you practise dressing your choice of fir with a bounty of baubles from Christmas at Home. Just download the Christmas Special within the Harrods Magazine app and click your way through to design your own dream tree. Share a picture of your creation on Facebook or Twitter using the hashtag #boughwow before 5th December and you could win a Harrods Christmas tree plus a £500 gift card. The online bauble fun carries on after the 5th, though – giving you endless opportunities to hit new treetrimming heights. magazine.harrods.com HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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INSPIRING BOOKS

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GET UP AND GO

Spa menus can be pretty samey – not so at Fairmont Hotels & Resorts, which has a portfolio of resorts in prime global locations. The Fairmont Washington DC, Georgetown offers a Fitness Resolution Programme – in partnership with Reebok – that includes a three-day tailored diet-and-fitness regime, and with sportswear provided to lighten your luggage. At The Plaza in New York City, the only Caudalie Vinothérapie Spa in the USA offers skincare treatments incorporating grape polyphenols that are believed to have restorative powers. In Manila, the Makati resort’s spa promotes peace and serenity using specially designed therapies – such as the Hilot treatment – that are drawn from Filipino culture. fairmont.com

Written in the STARS

Microadventures: Local Discoveries for Great Escapes by Alastair Humphreys A guide to exploring the more adventurous side of life while staying close to home – perfect for those who are time-poor or who want to enjoy the great outdoors on their doorstep. £16.99 Mindfulness: 25 Ways to Live in the Moment through Art

by Christophe Andre Andre focuses on everyday situations and provides 25 techniques to experience greater acceptance, freedom, happiness and love, drawing on fine art as a source of inspiration. £16.99

Conventional high-speed motorised juicers can destroy some fruits’ essential enzymes and nutrients. Like the tortoise in its race with the hare, Kuvings Silent Juicer’s extraction method operates at a much slower pace (80rpm to be exact), but with winning results. Patented juicing technology carefully and quietly extracts juice, rather than noisily grinding fruit, which can produce a less nutritious and layer-separated result. Extract from vegetables, fruit or soy, with guaranteed safety: the juicer can work only once the parts are assembled correctly. Slow and steady wins the race. £299. Available from Home Appliances, Second Floor

Holiday Homes Sales and rentals expert Engel and Völkers provides inspiration for the ideal getaway with a selection of 31 prestigious residential properties – from secluded chalets to chic townhouses – across eight countries. £45 Make Your Own Rules Diet by Tara Stiles Designed to encourage fitness-routine freedom and tension-free exercises, Stiles introduces a holistic regime of yoga, meditation and healthy eating that’s as easy to follow as, well, pie. £18.99 Available from Harrods Books & Cards, Second Floor

unners, fruit smoothie Getty Images

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101 Hotel Baths & Spas

by Corinna KretschmarJoehnk and Peter Joehnk Specialists in hospitality design, the authors explore 101 creative concepts in response to the continuous growth of healthfocused getaways. These are oases of peace, relaxation and retreat. £39.95

Through plotting a client’s date and place of birth on the astrological wheel, Carolyne Faulkner aims to determine character strengths and weaknesses. This natal horoscope gives her an insight into an individual’s shortcomings, allowing her to help address them.

Fortune-telling and astrology can be misunderstood; Faulkner doesn’t predict the future but identifies personality traits, enhancing self-awareness and so the chances of a more fulfilling future.

60 minutes, £160. Available from Urban Retreat, Fifth Floor

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T R AV E L

Bittersweet SYMPHONY Stately and stylish, Vienna is a city steeped in history, music, art and, SAN of course, schnitzel BY

he man with the shabby jacket and whiskery moustache has been sitting at the front table of Café Central for quite some time – almost 100 years, in fact. He is Peter Altenberg, a penniless scholar who, never finishing his degree, and suffering from a sensitive nervous system, spent his entire adult life in the early years of the 20th century as the most loyal patron (and one of the least regular payers) at Café Central. Today, in the inner sanctum of gilded columns and glowing lamps there sits a wax model of Peter at a table. As I embark on the challenge of devouring one of the café’s signature Wiener schnitzels – a slab of lightly breaded veal roughly the size of a travel pillow – I relax in the restrained hubbub of what is still considered by locals to be the quintessential Viennese coffee house, with its rich aromas and rows of indulgent cakes.

As the mist gathers around the imposing buildings of the Ringstrasse, it’s possible to imagine the Vienna of Altenberg’s era, a fin-de-siècle oasis for intellectuals, bohemians and academics.

The city of Freud, Mozart, Klimt and Mahler is an unapologetically grown-up choice for a winter city break.

As the ancient trams rattle and groan around the wide tree-lined boulevards, the imperial palaces, opera houses and museums look – defiantly and disdainfully – towards the modern world. The beer may be strong and the food may be calorific, but the lack of stag and hen do’s heading to the Austrian capital speaks volumes for the prevalence of history over hedonism in these parts.

City Hall, Schönbrunn Palace Getty Images; Lipizzaner stallions Alamy

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The sense of satisfied atavism is nowhere more prevalent than in the performance arena of the Spanish Riding School. Almost a century after the Great War spelled the end of the Hapsburg Empire, I’m watching half a dozen Lipizzaner stallions – the elegant grey horses so beloved by that ruling family – trotting around an opulent Baroque hall dating back to 1729 that looks more suited to ballet performances than equine antics.

The riders control the horses with a firm hand.

Occasionally a stallion will perform the astonishing movement known as the capriole, jumping into the air while simultaneously kicking his rear legs backwards to full stretch. Cue a gentle ripple of applause.

Lipizzaner horses are never sold on the private market, enjoy a special retirement home in the Austrian countryside and have three months off a year. As the weak wintery sunshine casts an almost ethereal glow into this most gracious of sporting arenas, I take my leave and saunter past the array of boutiques and, yes, more coffee houses to the Hotel Imperial.

Recently the recipient of a multimillion-euro makeover to its lobby and bar area, the Imperial has welcomed the likes of Charlie Chaplin (who had a series of analysis sessions with Freud in one of the rooms), Thomas Mann, Bismarck, the Rolling Stones and Madonna through its doors since it opened in 1863. X

FROM TOP Vienna’s Christmas Market, in front of City Hall; Schönbrunn Palace; Lipizzaner horses perform at the Spanish Riding School

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The new bar area is a high-ceilinged affair scattered with plush easy chairs bedecked in tones of cream and gold, and with a contemporary three-in-one chandelier that looks like a frozen explosion of crystals.

My room, with a balcony looking out onto the Ringstrasse, feels more traditional, with heavy red drapes, a marble-floored bathroom and an imposing portrait of Franz Josef II dressed in full hunting regalia hanging opposite my bed.

Just 10 minutes’ walk from here is the Kunsthistorisches Museum, one of the finest art-history museums in Europe and a testament to the long-vanished power and wealth of an empire that stretched into what is now Hungary, Croatia, Serbia and Sicily. Walking through rooms with soaring gold-leaf-covered ceilings, there’s a staggering array of exotica including globes, glassware, clocks and astrolabes, all once belonging – or bequeathed – to the Hapsburgs.

Reopened in March 2014 after almost a decade of restoration work, the museum and its treasures reach their apex in the form of a 16th-century gold, ebony and ivory saltcellar by Benvenuto Cellini. The Florentine artist turned a humble piece of tableware into a masterpiece depicting the allegory of the Cosmos by the deities Neptune and Tellus together with the illustrations of the times of day and the four winds on the base. The piece – the only surviving work in gold by Cellini – was stolen in 2003 during the renovation of the Kunstkammer section of the museum; it was found five years later in a lead box in a forest some 60 miles north of Vienna. It is now insured for more than £35 million.

The pomp and magnificence of Vienna does have a less sweet side, though – one immortalised in fiction by Graham Greene and then adapted into one of the greatest

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movies of the 20th century. The Third Man was filmed in Vienna in the autumn of 1948 and the movie, with its scurrilous protagonist Harry Lime, invites us into a bombscarred city still reeling from the Second World War. The 19th-century ferris wheel, located on the colossal open space of the Prater, was featured in one of the film’s most famous scenes, and its gondolas continue to slowly turn. It was here that Orson Welles, as Harry, admonished Holly Martin regarding his feelings towards the “ants” that populate the city.

The landscape of Vienna from the top of the wheel is one of a city that, with its porticos, carriages and forests, seems the very essence of Old World Europe. But as the fall of the Hapsburgs shows, as well as the fictional crimes of Harry Lime, a city with this much history always has a hint of something darker. And that, along with Peter Altenberg, is what gives the coffee-drinking, cake-eating decadence its drama. HMN Rob Crossan writes for GQ, Esquire Weekly, The Sunday Times Travel Magazine and Tatler Austrian Airlines flies from London Heathrow to Vienna from £159 return. The Hotel Imperial (www.imperialvienna.com) offers rooms from £319 based on two people sharing including breakfast.

For more info on Vienna, visit www.wien.info/en

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

A staircase in the Kunsthistorisches Museum; the view from the top of the Riesenrad ferris wheel in the Prater; cake and coffee at Café Central; The Imperial Hotel

Museum, ferris wheel, cake Getty Images

STRIA C VIENNA, AU , December 2° RE July 22°C EMPERATU T H IG H E AVERAG Euro CURRENCY German LANGUAGE

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One Hyde Park’s extensive facilities include a private cinema, 21m swimming pool, Jacuzzi, private spa, state-of-the-art gym, private meeting rooms and a business suite. EPC rating C. Leasehold: Approximately 997 years remaining Guide price: offers in excess of £5,600,000 020 7225 6506 nicholas.shaw@harrodsestates.com

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THURLOE PLACE Knightsbridge, SW7 A three-bedroom apartment of 1,700sq ft (158sq m) is located on the second floor of a renowned Knightsbridge block, with impressive views of the Brompton Oratory and Brompton Road.

The apartment has recently been rebuilt, combining 21st-century technology with the highest-specification materials including rare marble, Swarovski crystal, 24kt gold ironmongery, Italian leather, Murano glass and bespoke timbers. EPC rating B. Leasehold: Approximately 90 years remaining Guide price: ÂŁ6,950,000 020 7893 8343 leila.dyominova@harrodsestates.com

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MY STYLE

“Come 6pm, I add bright lips”

Wearing Matthew Williamson, Sophia Webster and Roger Vivier during London Fashion Week SS15

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Tory Burch sweater £599

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Carven Crystal Pocket coat £1,190

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Having launched her blog, La Petite Anglaise, while studying at Central Saint Martins, the super-stylish Brit is now part of a generation re-energising the fashion industry BY You’re English, but with a nonchalant, chic French look; what’s your take on different countries’ styles?

I think my style is the opposite of nonchalant and French, but that’s very flattering and I’ll take the compliment!

The French have that je ne sais quoi that no one else can imitate. The Americans have so many styles, from preppy to downtown grunge; the Scandis have their minimalist cool; we Brits do eclecticism better than anyone.

What were your fashion influences growing up?

My mother and grandmother were huge influences; they’re both incredibly stylish women.

You studied fashion history at Central Saint Martins.

Which is your favourite era for fashion?

I adore ’60s fashion, very apt this season. I also love Tudor dress: the richness of the fabrics, the embellishment, and how everything – from the colour of a velvet to the number of ermine tails – signified the rank of the wearer.

When getting dressed in the morning, do you take a strategic approach or does it depend on your mood?

If I’m doing something specific and important, a meeting or an event, then I’ll dress to impress in an outfit that’s appropriate for the occasion. If I’m just working from home or popping out to a couple of appointments, then it’ll probably be a result of my mood, the weather and if there’s anything I feel particularly drawn to.

Which are your favourite brands to work with?

I’ve worked with so many wonderful brands that have all been great; I couldn’t possibly pick a favourite. It was very exciting working with Chanel this summer, and again with Harrods and Chanel on the launch of Harrods Shoe Heaven. Mulberry, Matthew Williamson and Louis Vuitton are always magical to work with.

Matthew Williamson dress £999

Which labels do you love seeing in your wardrobe?

Tory Burch, Club Monaco, Carven and Whistles are all favourites. I have a few amazing dresses from Matthew Williamson, Red Valentino and Roland Mouret that are very special to me and make me smile every time I look at them. Oh, and my Mulberry Willow tote brings me endless happiness.

Is there a piece of clothing or an accessory that you decided not to buy, but still pine for?

So many! I’m in a permanent state of 3.1 Phillip Lim Pashli anxiety. I get all wound up over whether or not to get one every season, then regret not buying it, then he brings out new ones and the cycle repeats itself.

Do you have a fail-safe outfit to go from day to evening?

My friends always joke that my personal dress code is permanently set to “smart casual”, so I don’t have much problem going from day to evening. I’d have to say a simple blouse, A-line skirt, statement heels and then, come 6pm, I add bright lips.

What turns an outfit from ordinary to extraordinary?

Cheesy to say, but the woman wearing it. Great accessories don’t hurt, either.

Are there any trends you shy away from?

Sports luxe. Not my cup of tea.

If you got the chance to raid anyone’s wardrobe, whose would it be?

Caroline Sieber’s.

What’s at the top of your Christmas wish list?

A Boy Chanel bag – but I fear I can keep dreaming there.

Available from International Designer and Studio, First Floor; Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor; and harrods.com

Harrods Shoe Heaven launch Getty Images; LFW David Nyanzi; Ella Catliff with sunglasses Rex Features; lipstick Alamy

To y u ch

At the Harrods Shoe Heaven launch party, September 2014