FEBRUARY 2015
FEBRUARY 2015
A DREAM OF SPRING
A DREAM OF SPRING
BRILLIANT BRITISH DESIGNERS • BACKSTAGE BEAUTY DIVINE WEDDING JEWELLERY • GIFTS FOR ROMANCE
harrods.com
EDITOR’S LE T TER
February is all about looking forward, especially when London Fashion Week comes to town.
Main photo and cover image Katja Mayer
It’s not only the time designers showcase their new collections, it’s also when we hear about everything that influences their work. Which is why our fashion feature, Dream State, interprets the moods and motifs that have inspired the SS15 shows of eight brilliant British designers. We also seek out all that’s cool for the season in our Trend Report, and our antennae have been tuning into some intriguing micro-trends – details that really put you in the picture. Fashion weeks aren’t exclusively about the clothes, of course. They’re also about people-watching and idea-swapping. Beauty expertise is in the spotlight too, as the world’s best make-up artists and session hairstylists converge on the capital to work their backstage magic. Their creativity ensures the models hit the catwalks with looks that sync with the show’s styling, while at the same time push the beauty boundaries. With this in mind, what better time to take a longer-than-usual look in the mirror and road-test some new products and techniques for yourself? In fact, we’ve made it easy to do that in-store with our 15 Minutes of Fashion event, where you’ll be able to visit a series of super-fast touch-up stations to have blow-dries, manis and pedis. The glam squads can also give you smoky eyes and hotshot lips – the perfect prepping for being snapped like a cover girl. Also in the frame this issue are weddings. Perhaps the exceptional engagement rings from the most prestigious haute joaillerie houses will provide a gentle nudge towards a grand Valentine’s Day gesture… the ultimate in planning for the future.
Jan Masters Editor
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CONTENTS
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NEW THIS MONTH 19 TOP 20 Launches, special offers and events for February 23 ZEITGEIST What everyone’s talking about this month 27 THE FANTASTIC MS FOX Calm. Self-assured. Emilia Fox puts it all down to turning 40, therapy and prioritising her daughter – and their dachshunds
FASHION COVER
Photographer KATJA MAYER Illustrator JESSICA MAY UNDERWOOD Fashion Editor VICTORIA GAIGER Hair JOSE QUIJANO at D+V Management using Bumble and Bumble Make-up JO FROST at CLM using Chanel Spring 2015 Nails CHISATO YAMAMOTO at Terry Manduca Model SVEA BERLIE at Premier wearing Dennis Basso gown £6,650
31 SHOULDER FLASH It’s the new sexy. From a glimpse to a full-on flaunting, shoulders are designers’ latest sweet spot 34 MODERN HISTORY His first job was at Gucci, he founded Prada menswear, and he subsequently launched his own label. Quite some past for designer Neil Barrett, whose future is looking just as bright 37 TREND WATCH: STRIPES A stripy outfit can set the tone for the day. Just make sure it’s in line with the occasion 39 WOMENSWEAR NEWS Muse jewellery by Astley Clarke; Analeena’s Twin Peaks range of bags in exotic skins; Oscar de la Renta’s super-feminine SS15 collection; a few of designer Bella Freud’s favourite things 40 FULL CREAM From caramel and nude to the palest of pinks, a neutral colour palette brings a new modernity to the SS15 collections 44 WOMENSWEAR NEWS AWAKE’s latest collection; Jaquet Droz’s Charming Bird watch; J Mendel’s collaboration with artist Enoc Perez; an interview with David Morris principal designer Jeremy Morris 46 MENSWEAR NEWS An American heartland-themed collection from Tommy Hilfiger; Markus Lupfer’s latest offbeat knitwear; A. Lange & Söhne’s updated 1815 watch; the Grooming Guru on good design 48 SPORTS ILLUSTRATED Sportswear has been muscling its way into men’s fashion for decades. Now, hi-tech fabrics and graphics deliver an urban edge 51 TREND REPORT SS15 Flowers bloomed. Denim diversified. And designers gave us carte blanche to wear head-to-toe white. Here’s the steer on this season’s sartorial highlights 58 DREAM STATE From Japanese prints to 1970s-style Hawaiian flourishes, we celebrate the moods and motifs that have inspired the SS15 collections of eight brilliant British designers 68 SHADOW PLAY Indulge your alter ego with the lean silhouettes and unexpected detailing of the international menswear collections
77 TO LOVE AND TO CHERISH Getting married in style requires planning. Fortunately, Harrods is here to help you make it a day to remember 81 BRIDAL NEWS The Floral Couture cake collection from Rosalind Miller; bespoke gowns from Phillipa Lepley and Ralph & Russo; the Chaumet Joséphine diamond jewellery collection; master florist Moyses Stevens’ bridal bouquets; Italian tailoring from Canali 82 TO HAVE AND TO HOLD Indulge the bride and groom with a stylish gift 94 CARRIED AWAY The vows have been taken. The confetti has been thrown. Now it’s the honeymoon. This way to paradise…
BEAUTY 99 BEAUTY NEWS Anne Semonin Youth Radiance Elixir; a moisture-boosting programme from Japanese brand Suqqu; Philip Kingsley’s threepart Trichotherapy regime; Miss Heaven Scent plays Cupid 100 HIGH FIVE Editor Jan Masters reveals her top beauty treats for the month 112 SECRETS OF THE DEEP Sea kelp. Sound waves. Vats of bubbling broth. Andy Bevacqua of The Max Huber Research Labs talks about the heritage and science behind Crème de la Mer
FOOD, INTERIORS & LIFESTYLE 115 THE GOOD MIXER French raclette is the ultimate winter warmer when melted in fondue or tartiflette, or poured over potatoes 120 DELICIOUSLY YOURS Melt hearts on Valentine’s Day with hot chocolate, biscuits and… more chocolate 122 FOOD NEWS Refined rosés from Château d’Esclans; the Harrods for Her hamper; Forrey & Galland handmade chocolates; an interview with chef Ian Pengelley of Mango Tree, Pan Chai and Chai Wu 125 INTERIORS NEWS The Hästens handmade Vividus bed; Apple’s ultra-lightweight iPad Air 2; the pizza-perfecting Chadwick Oven; hand-blown pendant lamps from Baldi; the lab-inspired Tank barware collection from Tom Dixon; February Cookshop events 127 LIFESTYLE NEWS The Special Edition John F Kennedy pen from Montblanc; Puiforcat’s eight-piece Fluidité coffee and tea set; exclusive Tumi business bags in exotic skins; Valentine’s Day books 130 MY STYLE: LÉA SEYDOUX France’s actress du jour talks red-carpet style and beauty essentials HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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3H\UJOLZ ZWLJPHS VăLYZ HUK L]LU[Z MVY -LIY\HY` 1. Boucheron Plume de Paon necklace The delicacy of a peacock feather is captured in the 18kt white gold and diamond Plume de Paon necklace. Price on request. The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor 2. Fendi SS15 menswear Summer nights were the focus at Fendi, where light knits were teamed with poolside sliders. Sweater £625 and sandals £625. Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor 3. Moncler childrenswear Style and substance combine in Moncler’s puffer jackets for mini adventurers. £470. Children’s Designer Apparel, Fourth Floor 4. Alexander McQueen Legend bag The new Legend bag from Alexander McQueen is available as a tote (right), a shopper and a clutch; all have strong hardware and curved zips for a tough edge. Tote £1,295. Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor 5. Mulberry Delphie Duo Named after the flower delphinium, the Delphie Duo is two bags in one: open the flap, wrapping it under and over the bag to reveal a different colour. £1,200. Luxury Accessories, Lower Ground Floor 6. Givenchy Hydra Sparkling skincare Drenching skin with moisture, Hydra Sparkling High Moisturizing Luminescence Sap-Serum promotes more youthful-looking skin. £39.50. The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor 7. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony 81180 The vintage style of the new pink-gold Patrimony 81180 watch echoes the original model, launched in 1957. £13,950. The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor 8. Balenciaga SS15 womenswear Sleek sophistication is the essence of Balenciaga’s opulent SS15 lines. Jumpsuit £2,325. International Designer, First Floor 9. Kenzo childrenswear Californian surfer style infuses Kenzo’s latest kids’ line, including updated versions of its tiger-motif T-shirts and sweatshirts. T-shirt from £49.95. Children’s and Junior Designer Apparel, Fourth Floor 10. G emerald ring With one 24ct emerald, 13 smaller emeralds and no fewer than 412 round diamonds, G’s ring is exclusive to Harrods. Price on request. The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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11. Louis Vuitton Pochette Mask bag Nicolas Ghesquière strikes again with the Pochette Mask bag, adding a little quirkiness with a robot-like clasp. £1,850. Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor 12. Harrods of London Made from fox fur, the latest gilets from Harrods of London are irresistibly snuggly. £4,450. Luxury Collections, First Floor 13. Givenchy SS15 womenswear Riccardo Tisci’s SS15 collection for Givenchy is ’60s-inspired; chiffon blouses and skirts are teamed with sleeveless leather jackets and thigh-high boots. Top £1,999 and skirt £1,799. International Designer, First Floor 14. Cosmique de Chanel jewellery The shooting-star motif in the Cosmique de Chanel ceramic and diamond jewellery range references Coco Chanel’s childhood bed frame. Ring £3,200. The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor 15. 15 Minutes of Fashion event February is Fashion Month and, to celebrate, Harrods is offering instant image fixes such as make-up touch-ups and mini blow-dries, manis and pedis. Don’t waste a second. 16. Breguet Reine de Naples Cammea watch Celebrating the art of cameos, the Reine de Naples Cammea watch has a white gold case and a sunflower dial carved from a seashell; the bezel is set with 40 diamonds. £46,300. The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor 17. Harrods chocolate heart Harrods couverture milk chocolate finds romantic expression in a latticed heart for Valentine’s Day. £16.95. Food Halls, Ground Floor 18. Balmain SS15 menswear The SS15 menswear collection from Balmain is based on ’70s skiwear, motorcycle jackets and overalls worn by Formula One drivers. Jacket £14,950; exclusive to Harrods. Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor 19. YSL Beauty Y-Shape skincare Chin up with Forever Youth Liberator Y-Shape Concentrate from Yves Saint Laurent, designed to firm skin along the jawline, neck and décolleté. 30ml, £65. The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor 20. Estée Lauder gift with purchase In February, purchase two Estée Lauder products (one of which must be skincare) and receive a metallic clutch and eight mini products. The Colour and Cosmetics Halls, Ground Floor
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PEOPLE & PLACES in the air in February BY
Portrait Temperley London
FASHION Alice Temperley, designer “I want my designs to be real,” Alice Temperley says. “Decadent and romantic, but wearable.” Though she has established her label as the go-to for embellished gowns and ethereal dresses, her SS15 collection is more daywear-centric. Relaxed suits in pastels are the biggest departures, while latticework cocktail dresses take their cues from sportswear. Even the key prints (seen on her kimonos and kaftans) have edgier-thanusual origins; their motifs are reworkings of ink paintings from Japan’s Edo period. And there’s plenty of Temperley’s trademark decoration in the mix: mermaid-style dresses are adorned with pearls, embroidered with shell motifs or studded with crystal sea creatures. Temperley studied at Central Saint Martins and the Royal College of Art before launching her eponymous label in 2003, but she credits her rural upbringing with her success. “It gave me a sense of freedom that I apply when I’m designing.” Available from Eveningwear and Studio, First Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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ZEI T GEIST
EXHIBITION
ubens and His Legacy: Van Dyck to Cézanne
There’s much more to painter Peter 7H\S 9\ILUZ [OHU [OL MLTHSL ÄN\YLZ for which he is known. An exhibition at the Royal Academy shows how [OL -SLTPZO HY[PZ[ PUÅ\LUJLK ZVTL Z\YWYPZPUN Z\JJLZZVYZ HTVUN [OLT =HU +`JR ;\YULY 2SPT[ HUK Picasso. The show is an opportunity [V JVTWHYL ZVTL VM [OL NYLH[LZ[ works of the past few centuries. Until 10th April at the Royal Academy of Arts Rubens’ Tiger, Lion and Leopard Hunt
BOOK Thea Porter by Laura McLaws Helms and Venetia Porter
Juliet Stevenson in Happy Days
THEATRE Happy Days It’s one of the strangest roles in theatre: a woman trapped up to her waist in earth is gradually entombed until only her head is visible. But Winnie, in Samuel Beckett’s Happy Days, is also a tremendous platform for the greatest actresses, and Juliet Stevenson makes the part wholly her own. Interpreting Beckett’s poetic language and surreal humour makes for fertile discussion after the show. Meanwhile, there can be no doubting the commanding magnificence of Stevenson in her every tic and word. From 13th February to 21st March at the Young Vic
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EXPERIENCE Valentine’s dinner on the Belmond British Pullman Your carriage awaits. Whisk your sweetheart away for an evening of romance, with dinner in a setting that recalls the golden age of train travel. As you depart London Victoria, you’ll be served a seasonal British menu created by award-winning chef Robbie Gleeson. Guests can relax in the beautifully restored Art Deco carriages as the wine flows and the train completes its return journey. From £420; belmond.com
Happy Days Johan Persson; ubens MBA, Rennes, Dist. RMN-Grand Palais/Adelaide Beaudoin
Sadly all but forgotten, Thea Porter was in the late 1960s one of the most influential figures in fashion in London. Largely responsible for the boho chic that popularised the use of Indian, Turkish and Middle Eastern fabrics and embellishments, her creations were essential wear for the likes of Princess Margaret, Elizabeth Taylor and Mick and Bianca Jagger. Now, as Porter’s work is exhibited at the Fashion and Textile Museum (from 6th February to 3rd May), her daughter Venetia and the fashion historian Laura McLaws Helms look back at her exotic designs. £25. Available from Harrods Books & Cards, Second Floor
ZEITGEIST
FILM Fifty Shades of Grey The twist that EL James gave the romantic novel with her Fifty Shades trilogy captured the imagination of millions of readers. Now, after a hotly debated casting quest, her tale at last comes to the screen, directed by English photographer and filmmaker Sam TaylorJohnson. Jamie Dornan (who’s made an impact in TV’s The Fall) plays Christian Grey, an uncommonly selfpossessed but emotionally flawed business mogul who tutors ingenue Anastasia Steele (Dakota Johnson) in his singular tastes. Fifty Shades of Grey opens on 13th February in the UK Jamie Dornan and Dakota Johnson in Fifty Shades of Grey
Joaquin Phoenix and Josh Brolin, stars of Inherent Vice
FILM Inherent Vice Following on from the weighty brilliance of There Will Be Blood and The Master, director Paul Thomas Anderson rejoins forces with the star of the latter – Joaquin Phoenix – for an altogether more light-hearted affair. Adapted from Thomas Pynchon’s novel, Inherent Vice recalls the blissful confusion of ’70s film noir. As Phoenix’s private eye, Doc Sportello, stumbles through the case of a kidnapped billionaire in hippy-era California, we’re reminded of the Cohen brothers’ The Big Lebowski and Robert Altman’s The Long Goodbye. Owen Wilson, Reese Witherspoon and Benicio Del Toro are just a few of the supporting stars. Inherent Vice opens on 30th January in the UK
BOOK Holy Cow by David Duchovny
Inherent Vice Warner Bros/RatPac-Dune; L’Ormindo Stephen Cummiskey
The star of The X-Files and Californication, Ivy League-educated David Duchovny is more than just a pretty face. Similarly, his debut book for kids and adults is a far more intriguing and ambitious affair than the publishing efforts of many celebrities. Holy Cow is a freewheeling allegory in which a cow, a pig and a turkey escape their farm and, in a series of twists, end up having a surprising effect on world politics. £9.99. Available from Harrods Books & Cards, Second Floor
L’Ormindo at Shakespeare’s Globe
OPERA L’Ormindo
(Z YHJ` HZ H >LZ[ ,UK MHYJL -YHUJLZJV Cavalli’s 17th-century Italian opera revolves HYV\UK H SV]L [YPHUNSL PU ^OPJO 6YTPUKV 7YPUJL VM ;\UPZ HUK OPZ MYPLUK (TPKH HYL IV[O ILZV[[LK ^P[O ,YPZIL ^OV PZ HSYLHK` THYYPLK [V [OL RPUN VM 4H\YL[HUPH :[HNLK in the Sam Wanamaker Playhouse at :OHRLZWLHYL»Z .SVIL L’Ormindo is a feast for the eyes that will by turns amuse and enthral. From 3rd February to 5th March at Shakespeare’s Globe HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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The fantastic MS FOX Calm. Self-assured. Emilia Fox puts it all down to turning 40, therapy and prioritising her daughter – and their dachshunds BY NIKI B DEPUTY F
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n a loft studio in northwest London, Emilia Fox is perched in the centre of a huge sofa, bundled up in a scarf large enough to be classified a blanket. In person, she’s a pareddown version of her on-screen self – doe-eyed and softly spoken. And her face, with its classically English proportions, is made for period drama. Strangely, it’s not this genre of acting she’s best known for – at least not of late. For the past 10 years she has played forensic pathologist Dr Nikki Alexander in the BBC crime drama Silent Witness. “Ten years!” she says, eyes widening. “I feel like I’ve only been doing it for about two. I count my blessings because I get to make five very different film-length pieces every year [each episode of Silent Witness is two hours long], and there’s a lovely familiarity with the people who work on the show. It’s also nice because it has meant I’ve had stability and haven’t had to endure the roulette aspect of my job. I’m sure there are some actors who love the gamble of not knowing what’s going to happen next month, or even tomorrow. But I don’t miss the feeling of being on a cliff edge.” Fox’s desire for a less volatile lifestyle is perhaps due in part to the fact that she’s not yet found the consistency in her personal life that she has in her professional world. Her love life first made the papers X
Temperley London dress £2,499; Annoushka earrings £1,400 HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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following a short engagement to comedian Vic Reeves in 2000. She then married Mad Men actor Jared Harris (son of Richard) in 2005. Sadly, the marriage ended in divorce in 2010. Later that year, she had a daughter, Rose, with Jeremy Gilley, the actor, filmmaker and founder of the organisation Peace One Day, from whom she parted ways a year later. “I think people find it curious that I haven’t settled yet. I find it curious!” she says. Fox is from one of Britain’s most famous acting dynasties. Grandfather Robin was a theatrical agent; her father Edward and uncles James and Robert are in the industry, as is her mother, Joanna David. Even little brother Freddie is a thesp; he looks so like his older sis that when he played cross-dresser Marilyn in the Boy George TV movie Worried About the Boy, people thought it was her. But Fox says that watching her family’s experience actually made her want to avoid following in their footsteps. “It’s not secure. I didn’t want to grow up and be that person who’s left wondering when the next job is going to materialise,” she says. She was also a shy child, preferring cello practice to being on set with her parents. “Whereas Freddie came out singing and dancing, I was more reserved; I didn’t want to prove myself in that way. I thought I’d find something a bit more original to do.” So Fox took herself off to Oxford to study English. However, “on a whim”, she auditioned for a part in the TV
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THIS PAGE Stella McCartney gown £1,850; Annoushka ring £2,600; Rupert Sanderson shoes £485; OPPOSITE PAGE Stella McCartney jumpsuit £1,475; Annoushka necklace £995; Christian Louboutin shoes £895
Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; Eveningwear and International Designer, First Floor; Harrods Shoe Heaven, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com
version of Pride and Prejudice (she played Georgina, the sister to Colin Firth’s Mr Darcy) and got it. Twenty years later, she has a wide and varied CV under her belt. “I love [acting] now, but it really happened by default,” she says. “I never thought I’d still be doing this. Never!” Though Fox is separated from Rose’s father, the two are still friends, and put their daughter’s wellbeing first. “I’d be lying if I said it’s been easy,” she says. “But, hey, we’ve come out the other side and, for me, the ‘single mum’ label is something positive. Jay and I get on very well together, and that’s the key. It’s about us parenting her, protecting her childhood. I thank God we were able to put our focus and energies into that.” Happily ever after is something she still hopes for. But, she says, “I know I have to be more thoughtful, because there’s someone else in the equation now; it’s not just me.” She stays tight-lipped about her on/off relationship with chef Marco Pierre White. She will, however, admit to being smitten with her dachshunds, Clive and Dolly. “Rose and I are very in love with them,” she says. “But puppy training wasn’t something I was quite prepared for. Not that I’d change a thing, of course.” Now 40, Fox says she’s finally in a good space. “So, for anyone who’s worrying about it, be assured that it’s actually quite fun,” she says. “You’ve ironed out all the things you worried about in your twenties and thirties, and can look forward to feeling much calmer and more self-assured.” She’s open about the ongoing therapy that’s helped her achieve her happy state. “It’s straightened things out for me. I feel much more settled because of it. When things start to get on top of me, I can now talk myself through the situation, which is very helpful. The overall reward is being with Rose – but something like this afternoon has been such a treat. I’ve had my hair and make-up done, my nails have been manicured and I’ve been able to wear some beautiful clothes. These are the perks of the job, you know.” From today’s outfits, she says she couldn’t possibly choose a favourite. “They’re all beautiful and elegant – but also quite fun.” Regarding her own wardrobe, she’s less effusive. “It’s all such a mess. I was rushing to work one day, and I ducked under three dresses I’ve got hanging from the bedroom door frame. I must have done it at some weird angle, because I then tried to stand up and realised I’d put my back out. We were supposed to be filming stunts for Silent Witness that day, and I couldn’t do them.” She rolls her eyes: “I didn’t dare tell them how I’d done it – ducking under my messy clothes like a teenager.” Before we go, she whips out her iPhone to show me pictures of the dogs (both adorable). Then she pulls on her coat, rearranges the blanket scarf, and goes off into the night. Even though she’s clearly enjoyed being pampered at today’s shoot, you get the impression she can’t wait to get back to her favourite place: home. HMN Emilia Fox stars in Silent Witness on BBC1 Niki Browes is associate editor of InStyle Magazine
“I’m sure there are some actors who love the gamble of not knowing what’s going to happen next month, or even tomorrow. But I don’t miss that feeling of being on a cliff edge”
Hair ENZO VOLPE at Mandy Coakley Make-up LIZ DAXAUER at Caren using Shu Uemura Nails KIM TREACY Photographer’s Assistant SAM COPELAND Fashion Assistant OLIVIA HALSALL Digital Operator JOSEPH SERESIN
THE LATEST LOOKS FROM THE INTERNATIONAL CATWALKS
SHOULDER FLASH It’s the new sexy. From a glimpse to a full-on flaunting, shoulders are designers’ latest sweet spot BY
Balenciaga jumpsuit £2,325 HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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Givenchy 3.1 hilli i
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Available from Designer Studio, Eveningwear, International Designer and Superbrands, First Floor
Models backstage Jason Lloyd-Evans
a sliver of collarbone. The key to mastering the new necklines is minimalist styling: at Roland Mouret, an asymmetrical cocktail dress called for a simple clutch rather than a shoulder-obscuring statement bag, while a dress at Lanvin was suspended by delicate golden chains, negating the need for necklaces. Not all the designs exhibit so much restraint: there was a Dynasty-era exuberance to the necklines at rising star Alessandra Rich’s show, and a hyper-feminine seventies inflection to the crossover halters at Matthew Williamson and gypsy-style gowns at Marchesa. Alexander Wang’s Balenciaga collection was rooted in the present rather than the past: he riffed on high-performance cycling gear to bring a refreshing modernity to embellished halterneck jumpsuits and crossover dresses. At Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci, exquisitely cut collarbone-revealing dresses had an erotic charge even though they exposed little. Incidentally, it’s interesting to note that, although they were first introduced in the 16th century, shoulderbaring designs still haven’t quite lost their shock factor. Only last year, a female reporter was banned from a Utah courtroom for wearing a sleeveless high-necked blouse. Conclusive proof, if it were needed, that in terms of impact, the new necklines stand head and shoulders above the rest. HMN
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Alessandra Rich dress £1,575
Lanvin dress £2,325
Balenciaga dress £3,850
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Matthew Williamson dress £1,350
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Valentino dress £1,385
Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci dress £2,499
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Christopher Kane dress £1,999
Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci dress £3,599
Roland Mouret dress £1,350
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hen it comes to reflecting the state of our society, hemlines may hog the headlines but, historically, fashion designers’ handling of the shoulders has offered equally interesting insights. For example, after the Second World War, the feminine, rounded shoulders of Christian Dior’s New Look foreshadowed women’s return to domestic roles. Then, in the eighties, exaggerated shoulder pads signified their increasing power in the workplace. Whether it’s worth reading anything into designers’ shoulder-baring styles this season is debatable. In 2009, the popularity of Balmain’s bold shoulders was thought to signal our desire for protection in a time of fiscal uncertainty, so it could be that the sea of exposed collarbones on the SS15 catwalks reflected a renewed economic confidence. Or perhaps designers simply felt it would offer relief after a season of blanket wraps. Either way, the new cuts have a lot to recommend them. Easier to wear than last season’s crop tops and less obvious than low necklines, SS15’s exposed shoulders exert a subtler, more sophisticated sex appeal. Consider Christopher Kane’s uncharacteristically demure collection: the designer took a claret-coloured dress from sombre to seductive by adding skilfully draped sashes of tulle that gave the illusion of slipping off Serbian model Mina Cvetkovic’s shoulders. There’s also a coy revealand-conceal quality to 3.1 Phillip Lim’s sculptural constructions, while a spearmint-coloured dress by Valentino has strategic cut-outs that expose just
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Modern HISTORY
His first job was at Gucci, he founded Prada’s boundary-pushing menswear, and he subsequently launched his own label. Quite some past for designer Neil Barrett, whose future is looking just as bright SIMON LIPMAN
BY ASHION ASSISTANT
ABOVE Neil Barrett; OPPOSITE PAGE
Neil Barrett jacket £2,025, T-shirt £170 and trousers £350
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Quizzing wildly successful people on what they’d want to do if they weren’t doing what made them wildly successful is an interview staple. And there’s a reason for that: the answers are sometimes revealing and usually involve interesting anecdotes. Lanvin’s Alber Elbaz once took a sabbatical from fashion with the aim of enrolling in medical school. Giles Deacon dreamed of opening a petting zoo. Perhaps most incongruously, Miuccia Prada devoted five years to studying to be a mime artist. However, as the scion of a tailoring dynasty that stretches back to the 19th century, designer Neil Barrett’s fate in the sartorial arts was sealed at an early age. So did he ever get even the slightest chance to consider an alternative job? “Maybe… a furniture designer?” he ventures. At this point I’m tempted to suggest that, had he pursued a career in trend prediction, or even as a consultant in the shadowy art of futurology, he would surely have made a killing. After all, being several light years ahead of everyone else is something of a natural state for Barrett. While you might not immediately recognise his name, if you’re a man with even a passing interest in fashion, then your wardrobe will almost certainly have felt his influence. The smartened-up sportswear that’s currently dominating the catwalk? That’s been Barrett’s calling card since the 1980s. The trend for minimal tailoring in hi-tech fabrics? Look back to the first Prada menswear collection that he created, back in the ’90s, for a masterclass in the concept. Shirts and ties in matching fabrics? Waxed denim? Bonded jersey sweatshirts
emblazoned with lightning bolts or Bauhaus-style motifs? All owe their origins – or at least their popularity – to the uncannily prescient Barrett. “I feel like I’ve been doing my signatures since school,” shrugs Barrett, an unassuming but stylish Brit who launched his eponymous Milan-based label in 1999. “It’s only in the last 10 years that those things have become popular, and maybe in the last two or three that they’ve become super on-trend. I’ve always followed my instinct over trends. I don’t design my clothes to look crazy on the catwalk. I’d rather see them being worn in real life.” It’s true that Barrett’s designs don’t immediately seem radical or pioneering. Take a closer look, however, and you’ll see that the seemingly purist Savile Row-style tailoring has been slightly subverted – perhaps by shrunken proportions, clever construction or high-performance fabrics. The result is clothes that, as architect Zaha Hadid – a friend and frequent collaborator – explains, “explore structure, material and proportion while expressing remarkable integrity and the greatest attention to detail”. Barrett’s resolutely modern take on classic menswear codes has made his design label the go-to brand for a certain type of discerning man: someone who cares about craftsmanship and wants his clothes to look cool without being avant-garde, and edgy but still refined. This type of man is rather neatly illustrated by Barrett’s loyal clientele, with a roll call that includes Brad Pitt, Justin Timberlake, Orlando Bloom, Jake Gyllenhaal, Ewan McGregor and Lenny Kravitz. The references that Barrett reinterprets with such success (namely old-fashioned tailoring, sportswear and X
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“I needed to challenge myself, to prove to myself that I could do it without any help. I wanted total integrity for my brand”
Neil Barrett sweatshirt £320, T-shirt £170 and trousers £350
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military) are ones he was introduced to early. He spent his formative years on the south coast, in Plymouth, and remembers being fascinated by the military uniforms that his grandfather would tailor for the servicemen who passed through the naval city. “He was so meticulous and precise,” Barrett says of his predecessor. “I’m always striving to achieve that.” A self-described “dreamer with a practical brain”, Barrett studied fashion design at Central Saint Martins, then followed that with a master’s degree at the Royal College of Art. “At Central Saint Martins, they let you do whatever you want, which was amazing,” he says. “But at the Royal College, suddenly all those crazy ideas had to be applied to reality. That’s when I became more rounded. I left feeling fully formed as a designer.” So fully formed, in fact, that a mere two days after his graduate
show, Barrett was snapped up as Gucci’s senior menswear designer. “I had to pinch myself,” he remembers. “Four days later, I was flown out to Florence, picked up at the airport by a limousine, and put up in an apartment overlooking the River Arno.” Despite feeling like he’d been thrown in at the deep end, the designer thrived at Gucci, and five years after his appointment had ascended to the heady heights of directorship. Most designers would have been content with that career high, but Barrett was already hankering after a new challenge. “Gucci was a fantastic place to be, but the style wasn’t reflective of my taste,” he says. “Prada, on the other hand, was a brand I was passionate about. Prada was 100 per cent my taste.” There was a slight problem, though: Prada didn’t have an existing, or planned, menswear division. Undeterred, Barrett drafted a letter to the Prada Group’s formidable CEO, Patrizio Bertelli, asking for an opportunity to outline his aesthetic vision for the line. Granted an audience, Barrett pulled an ace from up his sleeve, presenting Bertelli with a fully realised Prada menswear collection – centring on lean, clean-lined, sports-influenced tailoring – with samples that he’d created from scratch in his spare time. “I don’t believe in doing things half-heartedly,” Barrett says, by way of explanation. “In my world, you either do something well or you don’t do it at all.” Of course, for an ambitious designer, landing your dream job at the age of 30 presents a conundrum. “Where on earth do you go from Prada?” Barrett asks. “For me, Prada is the most wonderful company in the world, the absolute pinnacle.” With such an illustrious CV, Barrett found himself in the enviable – and atypical – position of being offered roles with other design houses. The logical career progression, however, was to strike out on his own, and he received plenty of offers from commercial investors for a solo venture. Again, though, he decided to decline. “I needed to challenge myself, to prove to myself that I could do it without any help,” Barrett explains. “I also wanted total integrity for my brand, and I couldn’t be sure how pure those offers were or how respectful they would’ve been of the business.” The offers have kept coming, though: the designer says that, in his first year of operation, someone tried to buy him out entirely, and since then he’s been approached by investors every six months or so. It’s easy to see the attraction. Thanks to Barrett’s savvy business sense, the company turned a profit from the start. In 2006, he launched womenswear after stores reported that women were buying up all his smallest sizes. That same year, his label’s sales hit €50m – a remarkable achievement given that he eschewed any form of marketing, PR or advertising for the first 10 years. Today, Barrett finds himself at a crossroads. The combination of the recent boom in the menswear market (its growth is expected to outstrip that of womenswear in the next five years) and the economic boom in Asia (a key market for Barrett) means his business is doing better than ever. And, crucially, he’s been able to balance commercial success with pushing the label forward creatively. His SS15 menswear collection is a case in point, incorporating prints made from distorted images of classical statues. Next on the agenda are accessories. “I’m about to specialise in bags and shoes, so that’s a whole new world for me,” he says. As 95 per cent of the company’s revenues come from
Trend watch: STRIPES
A stripy outfit can set the tone for the day. Just make sure it’s in line with the occasion BY LA
Neil Barrett sweatshirt £465, T-shirt £170 and trousers £280 Grooming KEIICHIRO HIRANO at David Artists using Bumble and Bumble Model HARRISON FANNON at Models1 Digital Operator AMY BARTON Photographer’s Assistant PHIL HEWITT
ready-to-wear collections rather than the higher-margin accessories, the untapped potential is massive. Barrett’s workload is vast. He designs eight collections a year, developing around 50 fabrics for each season (this season he created outerwear from fabrics that are entirely crease-proof). And he produces his clothes not just in different sizes but in four different fits, ensuring that he is able to cater for both the tastes and the body shapes of his international clientele. Though he still considers himself a British designer, Barrett is a passionate advocate of Italian craftsmanship, with over 90 per cent of his collection now made in Italy. In 2009, he invested in his own production division in a bid to make the company entirely vertically integrated, and this year, he’s opening a 6,500sq m headquarters and factory in the centre of Milan so that he can monitor production quality even more closely. Of course, that level of perfectionism comes at a price, and despite living in Italy, those fabled two-hour lunch breaks are far from reality for Barrett. “Oh, I wish,” he laments. “I could be in London, Milan or New York… it doesn’t matter, really. I’m always thinking about fashion. For those around me, I try to switch off occasionally, but I usually end up faking it.” For my closing question, I venture another tried-andtested interview favourite: what has been his proudest achievement? “I haven’t had one yet,” Barrett says. “I feel like the best is yet to come.” HMN Available from Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor
TON
An important new study into the psychology of stripe-wearing has revealed a worrying rise in what’s been termed “stripe myopia”. A representative from the British Stripe Council voiced concerns that individuals are unaware of the message their stripes may be giving out. Researchers found that the condition affects those dressed in horizontal and vertical stripes equally, with an alarming surge among cavalier diagonal-stripe wearers. Experts recommend a more responsible approach to stripe-wearing. Before donning your Gucci sweater, determine whether you feel charged with the bright joviality of a children’s storybook character, or gripped by the sober existentialism of the Parisian Left Bank. Confusing these two very different stripe moods could be hazardous to both yourself and others. Scientists have a simple test to help: on one side of your kitchen table, place a Juliette Gréco record, a strong black coffee, a packet of Gauloises and a carafe of vin rouge; on the other, a bag of Liquorice Allsorts and the complete Where’s Wally? collection. The pile with the most appeal indicates your stripe mood. For the most part, onlookers react to stripes with joy and merriment. It is impossible, say experts, to behold a Stella McCartney dress with its broad orange and blue stripes and not experience the delight of the Big Top. Of course, this visceral reaction means the design should on no account be chosen for serious situations. Wearing your flirtily striped Carolina Herrera dress while breaking up with a suitor, for example, could mean the gentleman in question is left mesmerised and unable to absorb the devastating news. It’s equally inadvisable to wear Hedi Slimane’s humbug-like blazer for Saint Laurent in a conservative workplace lest you’re suddenly overcome with the urge to wreak Beetlejuice-style havoc. A spokeswoman for the Fashion Constabulary recently cautioned that wearing stripes can also lead to being mistaken for an escaped convict. At times of peak stripe trends, an average of 17 Breton-top wearers a day were being arrested erroneously in the UK. To counter this, the Constabulary’s advice is as follows: while wearing your Lanvin frock, avoid any suspicious activities, such as clambering through jewellery shop windows or masterminding an international diamond-smuggling ring; and, except in absolute emergencies, try not to carry a large bag marked “swag”. Available from International Designer, First Floor; and harrods.com Laura Barton is a feature writer for The Guardian. She also writes for Q, The Word, Vogue and Red X WATCH Download the Harrods Magazine app for advice on stripe myopia
FROM TOP Gucci sweater £815; Stella McCartney dress £1,299; Carolina Herrera dress £1,850; Saint Laurent jacket from a selection; Lanvin dress £1,699
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NEWS
BELLA FREUD
Circular LOGIC
y f vou te things
Celebrated British jewellery designer Bec Astley Clarke – whose services to the jewellery industry were recognised with an MBE in 2013 – has devoted her career to convincing women to “go precious every day” by creating jewellery that uses gems in playful settings. For the new Muse collection, Astley Clarke takes on the ancient craft of micro-mosaics and gives it a thoroughly modern makeover. Pavé diamonds stud the Icon and Eclipse pendants in white or yellow gold, and rose gold respectively, while the Cadence pendants have concentric circles of pavé diamonds set in rose or white gold. Astley Clarke pendants from £850. Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor
British designer Bella Freud studied fashion in Rome before launching her eponymous knitwear label in 1990. Since then, her quirky, pop culturereferencing slogan sweaters have been worn by the likes of Kate Moss, Courtney Love and Madonna. Freud talks to Harrods Magazine about the poetry book that prompted her interest in words.
PEAK SEASON Classic bags in lizard and crocodile are signatures of Analeena, the accessories label founded in 2008 by Lina H, a designer who honed her skills working for the likes of Gianfranco Ferré and Hermès. Analeena’s new Twin Peaks range builds on these trademarks. The cleverly constructed bags open on both sides and have a removable shoulder strap. Lina H’s legendary attention to detail can be seen in the rose-gold-threaded seams. Analeena bag £8,250; exclusive to Harrods. Available from Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor
Bella Freud Mary McCartney
Sweetness and light For over 50 years Oscar de la Renta designed feminine, elegant and sometimes extravagant dresses. Born in the Dominican Republic in 1932, he began his career as an apprentice to Cristóbal Balenciaga in the early 1950s. He then moved to Lanvin, and launched his own label in 1965. His SS15 collection – which, sadly, was his last – was a tour de force. The designer riffed on florals, creating delicate monochromatic motifs in broderie anglaise and organza. From left Oscar de la Renta top £1,525 and skirt £1,775; jacket £3,175 and skirt £1,099. Available from International Designer, First Floor
“Something I treasure is a poetry book called Cautionary Tales for Children by Hilaire Belloc. My dad [the late artist Lucian Freud] gave me a copy on my ninth birthday. He didn’t give presents very often, but the ones he did give were quite special. “The moral of each tale is about how children ought to behave. So, for example, you have Matilda, Who told Lies, and was Burned to Death, or Lord Lundy, Who was too Freely Moved to Tears, and thereby ruined his Political Career. It was first published in 1907, but it hasn’t dated. Children’s stories from that era are typically ghoulish, FROM TOP Bella Freud but these are also Love T-shirt £105 and 1970 hysterical. And sweater £275. Available the drawings by from Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor; and harrods.com Basil T Blackwood are terribly funny too. “There are similarities in Belloc’s way of looking at the world and the things my family and I find funny; it’s a mixture of black humour and old-school humour with a touch of irreverence. The stories have stayed in the back of my mind. Words tend to do that; they don’t melt away or fade into the background like images or other memories. I’ve kept returning to Cautionary Tales, and I also read it to my son. “I’ve always admired Belloc’s economy, and the way he used flourishes in unlikely places. Often, ideas for my work come from things I’ve read. Of course, I’m always looking around; but I usually start my design process by sketching out words rather than imagery or garments, which is why my knitwear often uses typography or slogans. I’m a visual person, but in my career I’ve ended up using words the way other people use patterns.” – By Lindsay Macpherson HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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FA S H I O N Ted Baker jacket £269
Temperley London dress £2,399
ose GOLD Lightly hammered surfaces and clean lines are the hallmarks of Spanish designer Monica Vinader’s understated aesthetic.
ey London
Monica Vinader necklace £330
Karen Millen dress £170
Céline sunglasses from £189
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Jay Ahr playsuit £625
Full CREAM
Kurt Geiger shoes £220 Tom Ford bag £4,300
Club Monaco jacket £240
Dorothee Schumacher trousers £265
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From caramel and nude to the palest of pinks, a neutral colour palette brings a new modernity to the SS15 collections
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Rupert Sanderson shoes £485
Karen Millen jacket £199
Donna Karan coat £8,199, shirt £750 and skirt £4,599
Seashell shades and fluid shapes lend an easy elegance to Alice Temperley’s dreamy, feminine pieces. Temperley London gown £2,199
Available from Designer Accessories, Lower Ground Floor; Luxury Accessories and Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; Designer Studio, Eveningwear, International Designer and Studio, First Floor; Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor; Harrods Shoe Heaven, Fifth Floor, and harrods.com
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Stylist Olivia Halsall
Christian Louboutin Beauté nail colour £36
To the POINT
Escada’s collaboration with contemporary artist Thilo Westermann has created a capsule collection of floral dresses and separates that are spot on
T
he cross-pollination of fine art and fashion seems set to continue for the new season, with painterly influences aplenty in the Spring/Summer 2015 collections. However, not all designers used artists’ work simply as inspiration. Escada fashion director Daniel Wingate was so impressed by German contemporary artist Thilo Westermann’s recent exhibition Was bedeutet denn für immer (So what does forever mean) that he enlisted the artist to collaborate on a capsule collection with the luxury clothing brand. Westermann’s innovative work draws on pointillism, a 19th-century Impressionist painting technique whereby small, distinct dots of colour are applied to a surface in a pattern to form a larger image. His labour-intensive interpretation involves applying black paint to the reverse side of Plexiglas, then using a needle-like instrument to remove the colour dot-by-dot to reveal a design. For the Escada range, Westermann’s paintings were scanned and magnified, then their motifs – which recall 17th-century Flemish floral still lifes – made their way into Escada’s minimalist designs. A compelling mix of artistry and aesthetics, the eight pieces – sure to appeal to fans of art as well as fashion – will be presented on black busts in a museum-like setting. The collection incorporates tailored separates, T-shirts, an evening gown, cocktail dresses and silk foulard scarves, each rendered in monochrome with a flash of fuchsia. Available from International Designer, First Floor
Escada dress £920 and blazer £840
PROMO T ION
NEWS
Telling TALES Designer Natalia Alaverdian has quite a reputation for making women look amazing: as fashion director for Harper’s Bazaar Russia, she styled everyone from Milla Jovovich to Naomi Campbell. In 2012, she left that role to launch AWAKE (All Wonderful Adventures Kindle Enthusiasm), a fashion brand referencing Japanese art and culture, inspired by tales from history, art and film. For SS15, Alaverdian focuses her talents on whimsical designs and playful details: think inverted box pleats, oversized fastenings and idiosyncratic prints. AWAKE dress £1,125. Available from Studio, First Floor
MUSIC and movement In the 18th century, Jaquet Droz was known for its highly decorated grandfather clocks with sophisticated complications, music and automata. Today, the watchmaker’s elaborate designs are still in demand. As a case in point, the brand has created a celebratory timepiece for its 275th anniversary. The Charming Bird, in white or rose gold with a sapphire crystal dome, plays to the Jaquet Droz strengths by combining haute horlogerie with automata: powered by a piston-driven system, a tiny singing bird, set against a sapphire dial, flaps its wings, turns, opens its beak and flicks its tail. Jaquet Droz watch £29,300. Available from The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor
Artistic alliance A fifth-generation member of the family that founded J Mendel in 1870, designer Gilles Mendel made his mark at the turn of the millennium by transforming the company from traditional furrier to fashion player. This season, Mendel continues on his quest to keep the firm at the forefront of fashion by joining forces with Puerto Rican artist Enoc Perez to create the Spring 2015 collection. The pair share a love of architecture, and this formed the starting point for their collaboration, with Mendel commissioning textile mills to replicate Perez’s paintings of buildings. Asymmetry also plays an important part in the designs, with Perez’s artistic flair seen in painterly motifs and abstract prints. J Mendel dress £2,720. Available from International Designer, First Floor
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JEREMY MORRIS by Lindsay Macpherson Family-owned fine-jewellery house David Morris has designed for Elizabeth Taylor, Queen Noor of Jordan and the James Bond films. Managing director and principal designer Jeremy Morris talks to Harrods Magazine about creating jewellery that feels “alive”. “My father started out as a goldsmith in Hatton Garden. In 1962, his father-in-law loaned him £200, a lot of money then, to set up his own business. Within a year he’d won the De Beers international jewellery award. I grew up around jewellery – I can remember playing in the workshop as a child – but I did a three-year apprenticeship before I entered the business. Both my father and I are bench jewellers at heart; as well as knowing how jewellery should look and feel, we have a focus on manufacturing and craftsmanship that I don’t believe many others in the industry share. Our designs are never boring or generic; David Morris jewellery is certainly not for the faint-hearted. What we do is bold and strong, but also wearable for women of all ages. People who appreciate real FROM TOP David Morris Cherry Blossom earrings jewellery generally and ring, price on request; love our pieces. exclusive to Harrods. There’s a distinct Available from The handwriting to our Fine Jewellery Room, work. We’ve always Ground Floor been design-led – our creations are interesting and unusual. My father has a very good eye for jewellery that’s ‘alive’ – he’s always reminding me to create movement in my designs. Jewellery can be plain and one-dimensional; we strive to make pieces that go beyond that. My inspiration usually comes from the stones. We might be influenced by maharaja jewellery, Art Deco or Art Nouveau, but if the stone is great, the design just flows, as it’s dictated by the unique elements of the stone. I often source antique jewellery, then recut and repolish the stones to create new pieces. I don’t see the company ever becoming a massive conglomerate. I’d like to ensure that it continues to grow and develop in line with my concept of a family jeweller.”
NEWS
BORN IN THE USA With Americana as inspiration, Tommy Hilfiger has aptly named its SS15 collection Heartland. Chinos and button-down shirts paired with sporty, lightweight jackets borrow from summer holidays in Wisconsin; a city-meetsrural-Colorado twist produces textured blazers and structured sweatpants; and military-inspired details such as epaulettes and cargo pants in neutral tones evoke the Texas desert. Nylon jackets are a common thread throughout; a sunshineyellow and black colourway complements popper-fastened pockets, a concealable hood, ribbed cuffs and a zip-and-button double fastening. Tommy Hilfiger jacket £250. Available from Men’s Casual Collections, Fifth Floor
SHARK dresser
Known for his original approach, which harnesses embroidery, embellishments and prints on knitwear, Markus Lupfer has garnered a cult following since his well-received graduate collection in 1997. In 2011 the German-born, London-based designer launched his first menswear collection, which combined classic shapes and colours with witty, irreverent and often surreal imagery. His most recent pieces adhere to his signature aesthetic: a navy-blue sweater is emblazoned with a sequined and embroidered shark, while a sky-blue sweatshirt is decorated with a black-skull design. From top Markus Lupfer sweaters £295 and £350. Available from Men’s Contemporary Collections, Lower Ground Floor
eturn of a classic 1815 was quite the year across Europe but, in the world of horology, it marks the birth of Ferdinand Adolph Lange, founder of A. Lange & Söhne. Two centuries on, the manufacture has updated the model named in his honour (first released in 1995) with an enlarged 40mm case and manually wound movement paired with the classic Arabic numerals, railway-track minute counter and smaller seconds-hand dial at 6 o’clock. The watch features the three-quarter plate introduced in 1864 by Lange himself, made of untreated German silver, to enhance stability. Fine materials pepper the piece: the argenté dial is in solid silver, while the casing and prong buckle come in 18kt yellow, white or pink gold. A. Lange & Söhne watch £17,000. Available from The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor
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The G
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has designs on good design These days, grooming isn’t just about looking good. Or even smelling good. The refined man will want everything around him – including what’s in his bathroom cabinet – to suggest style and sophistication. After all, you never know who might spot these items when round for dinner. Well-made grooming tools and fragrance bottles speak volumes about their owner’s personal style. So why not start with a razor like Bolin Webb’s X1, whose design cues are more Brands Hatch than barbershop? Sleek and aerodynamic, it handles beautifully – even around tricky bends – befitting Bolin Webb’s status as one of Britain’s 72 CoolBrands for 2014/15. The êShave Flame Shaving Set’s elegant curves give it a sculptural feel; the razor is beautifully weighted, too, ensuring better FROM TOP Bolin Webb X1 razor £65; êShave Flame handling and a Shaving Set £195; Dunhill smoother shave. Icon eau de toilette 50ml, Fragrances, in my £55, exclusive to Harrods; opinion, should look Bottega Veneta Pour as good as they smell. Homme Extrême 50ml, £52; Lalique for Bentley Catching my eye (as Crystal Edition 40ml, well as my nose) of £3,000. Available from late is Dunhill’s new The Gentleman’s Lounge, Icon – a deliciously Lower Ground Floor; The Perfumery Hall, Ground aromatic scent Floor; and harrods.com housed in a bottle with the graceful engine-turned pattern that’s been a feature of Dunhill accessories since 1924. Craftsmanship is also at the heart of the bottle design for Bottega Veneta Pour Homme Extrême, which is inspired by Venetian glass and the shape of a traditional Italian carafe. The scent is a woody, leathery and more intense version of the brand’s signature men’s fragrance. If design is very important to you, though, consider the Lalique for Bentley Crystal Edition. So beautiful is it that looking at it provides almost as much pleasure as wearing it. Lee Kynaston writes about male grooming for The Telegraph and has his own blog at groomingguru.co.uk
oschino
FA S H I O N
The STATEMENT BAGS
Precise craftsmanship and cutting-edge styling set this season’s sporty bags apart
The GRAPHIC PRINT For SS15, designers have used playful elements to elevate even the most minimal of sporting staples
Alexander McQueen bag £999
Moschino sweatshirt £115
SPORTS illustrated
Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci jacket £899, apron £425 and trousers £375
suhi
Givenchy
Sportswear has been muscling its way into men’s fashion for decades. Now, hi-tech fabrics and graphics deliver an urban edge
Miharayasuhiro sweater £325
ih
Vivienne Westwood T-shirt £84.95
*EDITOR’S CHOICE
Cerruti 1881 Paris top £280
Fendi shoes £975
Available from Men’s Contemporary Collections, Men’s International Gallery and The Men’s Shoe Salon, Lower Ground Floor; and harrods.com
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Giuseppe Zanotti shoes £605
Stylist Becky Branch
The much-loved Monster motif puts in an appearance on Fendi’s tongue-in-cheek take on high-top sneakers
No longer confined to denim, contrast stitching showed up on fashion month’s most stylish catwalks, finding new form on casual designs
V lentino
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alph Lauren, Prada and Céline Jason Lloyd-Evans
In the capricious world of high fashion, it’s uncommon for an era to be embraced so universally as the early seventies were this season. There wasn’t complete unity when it came to interpreting the trend, through: designers either took their cues from disco or looked at the seventies through a summer-of-love-tinged lens. At Matthew Williamson’s tour de force SS15 show, there was an unmistakable Studio 54 feel to his flowing palm-frond-print gowns and feather-fringed minidresses. For the most part this wasn’t straightforward pillaging, nor did it veer into pastiche: Elie Saab’s white trouser suits and exuberant sunset-coloured dresses looked fresh thanks to their unfussy execution. On the opposing side was Valentino, Veronica Etro and Emilio Pucci’s Peter Dundas whose fringed ponchos, beaded peasant blouses and billowing tie-dyed dresses looked like an haute couturier’s take on hippie-trail clothes. The new accessories collections were also saturated with seventies inspiration: expect oversized sunglasses, suede platform sandals and fringed bags for SS15.
Did designers decide they needed a detox after winter’s dramatic prints and colour-saturated patterns? Was there a consensus that a new season deserved a suitably blank canvas? Whatever the reason, the SS15 collections made a convincing case for the palate-cleansing properties of head-totoe white. A highlight was the all-white opening looks at Raf Simons’ Dior show – the absence of colour meant an almost clinical focus on form – while cream dresses at Christopher Kane were similarly clean-lined. The romantic side of snowy white wasn’t forgotten, though: Erdem Moralioğlu looked to 19th-century botanist Marianne North for his design inspiration, which meant his broderie anglaise maxidresses had a dreamy Victoriana vibe. Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli also fell for the breezy charms of broderie anglaise, as did Chloé’s Clare Waight Keller, who used cutwork and folkloric fabric to conjure up fragile-looking achromatic sundresses. When Alberta Ferretti, whose vision of femininity always errs on the ethereal side, embraced the trend, she managed to make her floor-skimming white embroidered dresses look beautiful, but not bridal – no mean feat.
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Designers have ripped up the fashion rule book so frequently that there’s barely an unbroken edict left. Still, it raised a few eyebrows to see leather – usually reserved for the winter months – being given an early outing this season. Even more surprising was the fact that outerwear was a focus in most collections: there were cocooning coats at Miu Miu, longline trenches at Dior and belted camel coats at Prada. SS15’s all-weather leather lent itself to any aesthetic: Hedi Slimane gave it his signature rebellious spin at Saint Laurent, while python-skin asymmetric skirts were off-kilter cool at Proenza Schouler. In other designers’ hands leather and hides came with a hint of kink: consider the latticework cages and bodycon dresses at Olivier Rousteing’s Balmain show and the black harness belts at Alexander McQueen. There was certainly an erotic undertone to the armour-like lace-up leather jackets and studded, grommeted gilets at Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci. There was some dissent in the audience over the designer’s source of inspiration (was it gypsies? Gladiators? Game of Thrones?) but everyone was in agreement on the outcome: summer leather has never felt so fierce.
Givenchy
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With most designers in a seventies state of mind, it makes sense that lace-up ribbon necklines are also enjoying a sartorial resurrection
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Available from Designer Collections, Eveningwear, International Designer, Studio and Superbrands, First Floor
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Gucci Jason Lloyd-Evans
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Marinière stripes are stalwarts but, for once, they weren’t the only options in the SS15 collections. All manner of linear motifs and geometric patterns made their mark. Even gingham (surely the most maligned of all patterns) had a comeback, giving Diane von Furstenberg wrap dresses and sundresses at Michael Kors a Brigitte Bardot-style glamour. There were monochrome stripes at Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci and bands of pastels on poetically pretty dresses at Valentino. At Chanel’s epic Parisian street-scene catwalk, pinstripes played a starring role on ultra-wearable versions of workwear and tailoring. At Balmain, stripes took on new guises, from Mondrianesque leather grids to pencil-thin primary-coloured lines. Don’t expect this trend to be a flash in the pan. Nicolas Ghesquière’s AW14 Louis Vuitton collection influenced many designers this season, and his SS15 show – full of striped leather skirts and modish minidresses – looks set to shape what we’ll wear for seasons to come.
DREAM STATE
From Japanese prints to 1970s-style Hawaiian ourishes, we celebrate the moods and motifs that have inspired the SS15 collections of eight brilliant British designers KATJ ILL
Temperley London robe and shorts from a selection
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FA S H I O N
Alessandra Rich dress £3,325; Jimmy Choo shoes £425
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FA S H I O N
Stella McCartney dress ÂŁ2,250 and shoes from a selection
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Jenny Packham gown ÂŁ10,500
Matthew Williamson gown ÂŁ1,899
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Credits TK Images
SEC TION
FA S H I O N
Victoria Beckham top £699 and trousers £899; Christian Louboutin shoes £445
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FA S H I O N
Erdem top £1,499 and skirt from a selection; Jimmy Choo shoes £495
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SHADOW PLAY
Indulge your alter ego with the lean silhouettes and unexpected detailing of the international menswear collections /F
FA S H I O N
Lanvin suit £1,550 and shirt £230; Stemar shoes £330 HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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THIS PAGE Tom Ford suit £2,910 and shirt from a selection; Stemar shoes £330; OPPOSITE PAGE Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci shirt £325
THIS PAGE Dsquared2 shirt £220; Gucci glasses from £249; OPPOSITE PAGE Balenciaga coat £1,050, sweater from a selection and trousers £415
FA S H I O N
THIS PAGE Cerruti 1881 Paris sweater £825; OPPOSITE PAGE Alexander McQueen shirt from a selection, trousers £495 and tie £125
Available from Men’s International Gallery, Men’s Shirts & Ties, The Men’s Shoe Salon and Tom Ford, Lower Ground Floor; and harrods.com
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Grooming OLIVER WOODS at One Represents using Kiehl’s Stylist Series Grooming Assistant AMANDA OLIVER Model DOMINIK BAUER at Models 1 Junior Fashion Assistant OLIVIA HALSALL Photographer’s Assistant AMELIA KARLSEN Digital Operator MATT FOXLEY
X WATCH Download the Harrods Magazine app and shadow the latest in luxury styling
WEDDING SPECIAL
W EDDI NG SPE CI A L
To love and to
Cover photograph and lilies Ted Humble-Smith
CHERISH The dress. The diamonds. The decadent wedding breakfast. Getting married in style requires a lot of meticulous planning. Luckily, most of it is off-the-scale exciting so it’s a joy to do. And fortunately, Harrods is here to help you finesse the details and make it a day to remember. The star of any engagement, apart from the bride-to-be of course, is the ring. And when it comes to the wedding itself, the sparkle of exquisite jewellery doesn’t simply bring glamour to the occasion – each piece worn becomes a cherished heirloom from that day forth. With this in mind, our Wedding Special brings you bridal collections from some of the world’s most prestigious haute joaillerie houses in The Fine Jewellery Room on the Ground Floor. Every house offers pieces that are both magical and distinctive – rings, necklaces and earrings to fall in love with on sight. Harry Winston elicits instant devotion with brilliant-cut stones; Chaumet celebrates unity and family with the Liens collection, its central motif a design of two lines crossing; Graff displays exceptional diamonds, inventively set; Tiffany & Co. celebrates with magnificent stones in platinum rings; De Beers captures every diamond’s “Fire, Life and Brilliance”; David Morris casts a romantic spell with antique rose-cut diamonds; G takes each stone as inspiration for its designs; Bulgari fascinates with collections that speak to charismatic women; Mikimoto places lustrous pearls centre stage; and Chanel fashions elegant and striking pieces, focusing on the camellia flower so beloved by Mademoiselle Chanel. We also talk cakes that are works of edible art, floristry flourishes that come from left field, dream dresses, made-to-measure tailoring, deeply desirable gifts, and last but most certainly not least, honeymoons. When the confetti has been thrown and the guests have departed, it’s time to escape, and we have some ideas that will set your heart aflutter. Let the celebrations commence.
NEWS
LOVE, ACTUALLY
Main image: photographer Rui Faria; hair Ranelle Chapman; make-up Helen Walsh at S:Management; model Millie Waite at Union Models
Tiers of JOY Elderflower, Sicilian lemon, banana and honeycomb are just a few of the weddingcake flavours available from Rosalind Miller. But it’s not just what’s inside that won Miller the title Best Wedding Cake Designer at the Wedding Industry Awards two years in a row; her background in graphic design means the cakes are edible works of art. In the new Floral Couture Collection – inspired by the prints, beading and embroidery seen on the SS14 catwalks – delicate sugar flowers adorn ganache-covered tiers. £795. Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor
The idiom “labour of love” is apt when it comes to Ralph & Russo, Britain’s only haute-couture fashion house. Tamara Ralph and Michael Russo’s petites-mains create gowns using timehonoured techniques ratified by Paris’s prestigious Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture. A similarly meticulous approach is a signature of London-based bridal designer Phillipa Lepley. Lepley – whose eponymous label recently celebrated its 25th anniversary – specialises in bespoke bridal gowns and accessories. Expert craftsmanship is the brand’s cornerstone; couturestyle dresses are fitted with invisible corsets, then covered in embroidered French lace that takes hundreds of hours to create. Right Ralph & Russo dress £47,650; Jimmy Choo shoes £375. Available from Superbrands, First Floor; and Harrods Shoe Heaven, Fifth Floor. To book an appointment with Phillipa Lepley, please visit Personal Shopping, First Floor
Historical ALLU E Parisian jewellery house Chaumet has an illustrious past; founder Marie-Étienne Nitot created the crown that Napoléon I wore at his coronation, and Empress Joséphine was a loyal client. The Joséphine collection takes its aesthetic cues from the Empress’ favourite aigrettes, which are elaborate – and sometimes feathered – head adornments. But for the range, rather than simply replicating designs from its archives, Chaumet has given the aigrette a makeover. The motif has been scaled down for a platinum and pavé diamond ring, a delicate necklace and a transformable brooch; but the jewel in the crown of the collection is a white gold tiara set with 193 brilliant-cut diamonds. £56,900. Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor
GOOD MEASURE
Left-field blooms With two Royal Warrants and over a century’s floristry experience, Moyses Stevens knows how to make an impact. The master florist specialises in unusual blooms, locally sourced, and its experts are on hand to interpret wedding plans and colour schemes so that your bouquets and buttonholes are perfect. To book a free consultation, please call 020 7173 6493. Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor
For men who are serious about their suits, proper tailoring is a must. Italian label Canali has been a stalwart of the sartorial scene since 1934, and its made-to-measure service is considered first class, promising superlative fit, singular attention to detail and a choice of more than 200 fabrics. For the ultimate finishing touch, Canali also allows men to put their stamp on a classic tailored shirt: after being measured, clients can personalise the shirt by choosing from 150 fabrics, six collar styles and five types of cuff. Canali tie from £95, and made-to-measure tuxedo £1,500 and shirt from £170. Available from Men’s Luxury Collections, Ground Floor
GIF T S
Riedel Black Tie decanter £495
edel
Jura GIGA 5 coffee machine from £3,750
*EDITOR’S Dennis Basso gown £6,650
Puiforcat Cognac beaker £1,805
Marcel Wanders for Baccarat New Antique vase £16,800
To have and TO HOLD KitchenAid Artisan stand mixer £429
Vera Wang for Wedgwood Gilded Weave teapot £130 and 23cm plate £25
KitchenAid
Carrs Imperial cabinet £10,199
Available from Eveningwear, First Floor; Bed Linens, Home Appliances, Luxury Home and Wedgwood & Waterford Crystal, Second Floor; and harrods.com
The White Company frame £70
Yves Delo e
Indulge the bride and groom with a stylish gift to remember
Yves Delorme Enlacer cashmere throw £995
Main image: photographer Rui Faria; hair Ranelle Chapman; make-up Helen Walsh at S:Management; nails Chisato Yamamoto at Terri Manduca; model Millie Waite at Union Models
Marcel Wanders’ New Antique vase fuses crystal with white Italian marble.
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CHOICE
WHAT A GIRL WANTS The sparkling stars of the big day; eternal symbols of love: these breathtaking bridal collections prove diamonds really are forever TED HUMBLE-SMITH
HARRY WINSTON Give a girl diamonds, and she’ll be happy. Give a girl Harry Winston diamonds, and she’ll love you forever. There is an energy and optimism that seems to come packaged with every diamond from the New York finejewellery house ever since it opened its doors in 1932. Winston treated fine jewellery as an art form, and that ethos resonates today. One of the house’s most magical designs is the Attraction engagement ring. Its 1.10ct brilliant-cut central diamond appears to float in its setting, and is flanked by a micropavé diamond band. Well, if Harry Winston diamonds were good enough for Marilyn Monroe… Attraction platinum engagement ring with 1.10ct diamond, and platinum pavé-diamond wedding band; both prices on request
PROM BE OA TU IO TN Y
CHAUMET
The French word liens translates as “connections”, and this is just what Chaumet’s collection of the same name is all about. Inspired by love, family and friendship, Liens has become one of the Parisian fine-jewellery house’s most beloved collections, and has now been reinterpreted as a high-jewellery line. The central motif of the collection – two lines crossing – first appeared in 1907, and can today be seen on three exceptional pieces. The central gem in a magnificent cushion-cut sapphire ring is surrounded by four triangular sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds, and a brilliant-cut diamond engagement ring is perfectly complemented by the collection’s diamond drop earrings. FROM TOP Liens ring in white gold with 10.69ct cushion-cut sapphire and diamonds, and ring in white gold with 1.18ct brilliant-cut diamond; Liens Croisés earrings in white gold with 3.05ct cushion-cut diamonds; all prices on request
GRAFF
Of all the jewels in all the world, there has always been a special place in Laurence Graff’s heart for diamonds. It is said that Graff has handled more diamonds of note than any other jeweller of his time. To honour this, the House of Graff has developed seven of its own exclusive diamond engagement ring settings, all named after famous Graff diamonds. These vary from simple to classic to ornate, with one thing in common: maximising the stones’ brilliance. Their sparkle is rivalled only by the other diamonds in Graff’s archive, including the cascading drop earrings from the music-inspired Rhythm Collection, and the intricately beautiful diamond Alice band. FROM TOP 27.89ct diamond Alice band; 5.01ct pear-shape diamond ring; Rhythm Collection 10.40ct diamond earrings; and 10.04ct emerald-cut diamond ring; all prices on request
PROMO T ION
TIFFANY & CO.
Little blue boxes are the stuff of dreams, especially when an engagement ring is nestled inside. Charles Lewis Tiffany is credited with creating the engagement ring as we know it today. He established the Tiffany Setting, whereby a six-pronged “claw� allows the diamond to be seen in its entirety. This has become the world standard for engagement rings, and today Tiffany & Co. continues to set the pace with its magical designs. FROM TOP Soleste diamond ring in platinum; Etoile diamond band ring in platinum; Tiffany Setting solitaire engagement ring in platinum; full circle diamond band ring in platinum; and square cushion-cut solitaire diamond ring in platinum; all prices on request
DE BEERS
When you know everything there is to know about diamonds, you can afford to be a little creative with how you showcase them. De Beers has been hand-picking its diamonds since 1888, each one chosen in line with its policy of capturing Fire, Life and Brilliance. Once selected, the diamonds are crafted into designs that best display their beauty. For 2015, this includes beautiful rings such as the Aura, designed around an oval pink-diamond solitaire; the Double Aura, with a rare, vivid 3.01ct Asscher-cut yellow diamond; and the Caress, with lines of pavé diamonds that sweep around a sparkling solitaire. FROM TOP Caress ring in pink gold with white diamonds from £6,100; Aura ring in pink gold with pink diamonds, price on request; Caress ring in platinum with white diamonds from £6,100; Double Aura ring in yellow gold and platinum with 3.01ct Asscher-cut yellow diamond, price on request; and Aura ring in white gold with 3.33ct cushion-cut brown diamond £30,100
PROMO T ION
DAVID MORRIS
When one is betrothed to a jeweller, chances are there is a somewhat stratospheric expectation regarding what the bride will wear at the wedding. And when Jeremy Morris – son of David Morris and principal designer of the family business – married Erin Shah, he didn’t disappoint. Jeremy designed a wedding band for his bride-to-be centred on antique rose-cut diamonds, fashioned to replicate the many facets of a rosebud and maximise the stone’s brilliance. So admired was Erin’s wedding band that Jeremy eventually developed the design into the Rose-Cut Collection, comprising elegant rings, earrings, bangles and a choker. FROM LEFT Rose-Cut Collection 18kt rose gold bangle and ring with round pink diamonds, and 18kt white gold bangle with white diamonds; all prices on request
G
Imagine having a product so beautiful that very little needs to be said about it. This is the approach that G takes to its jewellery design – letting the pieces speak for themselves. Headed by designer Glenn Spiro, the jewellery house selects the most beautiful stones, and then simply designs around them. A fine example is the Ballerina ring, which features an exquisite 5.04ct old mine diamond surrounded by a cascade of roundel diamonds and pearls; and the Ballerina earrings, whose 3ct brilliant-cut diamonds can be interchanged with other gems – from the wedding diamonds to the honeymoon emeralds, perhaps? Riviera necklace in 18kt white gold with 47 round brilliant-cut diamonds; and Ballerina ring in 18kt white gold with brilliant-cut 5.04ct old mine diamond and ear clips with interchangeable 3ct brilliant-cut diamonds; all prices on request
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BULGARI
With its Greek and Italian heritage, it’s little wonder that the House of Bulgari is partial to a muse. From Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor to Carla BruniSarkozy, the Bulgari muse is as much about inspiring creativity as being the perfect canvas for works of gemstone art. The Diva collection, for instance, is inspired by charismatic women and translates as a delicate fan-shaped design that echoes Roman mosaic patterns. The tiered necklace and earrings work perfectly with the breathtaking high-jewellery oval-cut 5.06ct diamond engagement ring. Diva 18kt white gold earrings with pavé diamonds £32,400 and necklace £77,000; high jewellery platinum ring with 5.06ct oval-cut diamond, price on request
MIKIMOTO
Following founder Kokichi Mikimoto’s decree, the finejewellery house has only ever worked with cultured pearls of the highest quality. Lustrous and elegant White South Sea cultured pearls shine in Mikimoto’s magnificent Prestige ring and Cascade necklace, set in 18kt white gold and offset by diamonds. The house’s most popular pearls, the Japanese Akoya, are at their best in the Floral Bouquet Collection, complemented by diamonds amid intricate and fluid flowery shapes of 18kt white gold. FROM TOP White South Sea cultured pearl and diamond Prestige ring £42,000; Floral Bouquet Akoya cultured pearl and diamond earrings £3,700 and ring £4,400; and White South Sea cultured pearl and diamond Cascade necklace, price on request
PROMO T ION
CHANEL
Mademoiselle Chanel had a habit of falling in love with things of power, mysticism, or simply great beauty, and she would treasure them forever. One such example is the camellia flower, known for bringing beauty and colour during the cold winter months. Coco Chanel saw so much loveliness in the camellia that she made it one of her signature motifs. The Camélia high-jewellery collections include delicate pieces such as the 18kt white gold and diamond hair jewel, and the sapphire and diamond ring. FROM TOP Bouton de Camélia hair jewel in 18kt white gold with diamonds; Camélia Feuille 18kt white gold ring with diamonds; Camélia Océan ring in 18kt white gold with sapphires and diamonds; and Camélia 18kt white gold ring with diamonds; all prices on request
Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor
BEAUTY SPECIAL
NEWS
MISS HEAVEN SCENT
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Thirsty WORK
If the skin’s barrier has been weakened, moisture will evaporate more quickly, so even if you’re drinking plenty of water every day, your skin may still seem dry. Nourish your complexion with the Anne Semonin Youth Radiance Elixir. It’s packed with super-hydrating hyaluronic acid with a high molecular weight for moisturisation on the surface, and a low molecular weight to moisturise deeper into the skin. It also contains Madonna lily and rose leaf cells, and apricot kernel oil to nourish and restore. Ingredients are encapsulated using pearl technology to preserve the active elements. But don’t stop drinking the water. That’s vital too. 40ml, £250; exclusive to Harrods. Available from The Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor
New on the scene
Fresh from Japan comes Suqqu’s anti-ageing and moisture-boosting programme, offering the fast track to younger-looking skin. The innovative Skincare Discovery Kit includes the rich Musculate Massage & Mask Cream, which enables you to apply sufficient pressure to promote circulation and tone muscles; and the Face Stretch Mask, which, when spread firmly onto the face, helps tighten the skin and sharpen the appearance of the jawline. The kit, designed to restore and revive, offers blanket care to winter-parched skin. £170, exclusive to Harrods. Available from The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor
Madonna lily iStock
AHEAD OF THE GAME
Tackling female hair loss, Philip Kingsley has created Trichotherapy, a three-part regime to protect precious locks. Step 1: Tricho Pro, a volumising spray with quinoa protein, forms a protective barrier over the hair shaft, sealing in moisture. Step 2: Tricho 7, a treatment, includes the vasodilator methyl nicotinate to help extend the hair’s growing phase, and green tea extract to combat free radicals. Step 3: Tricho Complex, a dietary supplement, delivers vitamins and minerals such as amino acid L-lysine, zinc and pantothenic acid. One Trichotherapy set allows for six weeks’ usage. £120, exclusive to Harrods. Available from The Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor
Hearts and flowers; Champagne and caviar; Borgen and slippers: romance is so subjective. I mention this because we’re approaching that most romantic of occasions – Valentine’s Day. And if the course of true love never did run smooth, bumpier still is navigating the selection of a suitable gift. So this month’s column is dedicated to those looking for love in a fragrance. Each of the new season’s romance-filled fragrances is geared towards completely different women, and has the potential to be a signature scent long after the bouquets have faded. Decide which type of romantic you’re buying for and the rest will follow. Let’s start by considering the “hopeless” variety. All she wants is true love, whimsy, Paris and to be happy ever after. Possibly also diamonds. And she can have all of this (diamonds notwithstanding) in Parisian powerhouse Chloé’s aptly named new fragrance, Love Story. If ever a scent’s smell reflected its name, this is it. The olfactive heart of Stephanotis and orange blossom is full of warmth and promise, while the opening notes of neroli add excitement. FROM TOP Chloé Love For the more Story eau de parfum 75ml, subversive romantic, £82; Juliette Has a Gun Moon Dance eau de parfum feisty fragrance 75ml, £180; Diptyque house Juliette Has Eau Plurielle 200ml, £55. a Gun has created a Available from The Beauty scent that sparkles Apothecary and The Perfumery Hall, Ground with enchantment. Floor; and harrods.com Moon Dance – the second in the house’s money-is-no-object Luxury Collection – is an accord of bewitching contradictions. The fragrance balances delicate, powdery tuberose and violet with heady patchouli for a result that’s both seductive and demure. Finally, for the understated romantic, Diptyque has formulated a rose-based fragrance (as it does every spring) that’s feminine without being too girly. The new Eau Plurielle has a heart of rose, contrasted by an unexpected note of ivy, making for a soft yet wild and fresh accord. – By Fleur Fruzza HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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HIGH FIVE
Editor Jan Masters reveals her top five beauty treats for the month
I admit it. In the past, I’ve been guilty of not paying enough attention to the skin around my eyes, especially during winter. This is partly because I worry rich creams will make my eyes puffy. But EviDenS de Beauté’s The Eye & Lips Solution has encouraged me to up my game. The highly concentrated formula sinks quickly into the skin, replumping and helping it look smoother. The fact it doubles as a treatment for the lip contour too means it’s fast becoming indispensable. 35ml, £350, exclusive to Harrods
If I’m to truly fall in love with a floral fragrance, it has to be either crisp and quirky or extremely glamorous. Emozione from Salvatore Ferragamo fits into the latter category. It combines heart notes of peony, Bulgarian rose and heliotrope with the luminosity of bergamot and the juiciness of peach. It’s also an aromatic, woody kind of scent. Cue patchouli, white musk and the sensuality of suede. Love it. Eau de parfum 50ml, £65, exclusive to Harrods
Layering isn’t just a fashion statement. It’s also useful in skincare. This is why Sisley created Sisleÿa Essential Skin Care Lotion, a treatment that immerses skin in nourishing, stimulating plant extracts and moisturising ingredients, prepping it for the application of serum and cream. The milky gel formula also creates a protective film that maintains a moist microclimate on the skin’s surface. 150ml, £100, exclusive to Harrods
Aerin’s Rose Lip Balm has become a staple in my make-up bag – or in my pocket if I’m travelling light. Why am I such a convert? Because the texture and hint of a tint are just right. Sure, it helps prevent and resolve chapped lips, but it’s also shiny and rosy-hued – just enough to look polished without overkill. And it has staying power, too – much more so than many one-lick-and-it’s-gone glosses. Try it. You won’t be disappointed. £20
Available from The Beauty Apothecary, and The Cosmetics and Perfumery Halls, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
Peony iStock
I’m a big fan of Sensai skincare, and its new duo – Cellular Performance Extra Intensive Cream and Extra Intensive Essence – reinforces my devotion. The cream, blended from luxurious oils, has a silky smooth texture that helps firm skin. The essence delivers an energising boost and leaves the complexion feeling revitalised. Now I’m even more hooked. Cream 40ml, £245 and Essence 40ml, £225, both exclusive to Harrods
PROMO T ION
BACKSTAGE BEAUTY
With beauty in the spotlight at London Fashion Week, it’s the perfect time to reflect on the best new cosmetics. Check them out through the looking glass JON COMPSON
CHANTECAILLE Cool eyes Sylvie Chantecaille has created The Glacier Eye Shade Trio to showcase iridescent shades of icy white (with seaweed extract to hydrate eyelids), taupe and lilac-grey that blend together to give lids subtle colour. And, true to her campaigning character, she’s designed the limited-edition palette to raise awareness of the impact of global warming on Antarctica. BEAUTY Chantecaille Future Skin Foundation £60, Cheek Shade in Lovely £29, The Glacier Eye Shade Trio £62, Supreme Cils Long Wearing Water Resistant Mascara in Black £45, Hydra Chic Lipstick in Arctic Rose £30, Galactic Lip Shine in Aurora £27; FASHION Matthew Williamson gown £1,199
LA PRAIRIE All about base Doubling up on flawless coverage, La Prairie’s Skin Caviar Concealer Foundation SPF 15 is one part luxurious foundation, one part correcting concealer. As well as blending in seamlessly, it contains the brand’s lauded caviar extract to help firm and lift the skin. BEAUTY La Prairie Extrait of Skin Caviar Firming Complex £98, Skin Caviar Concealer Foundation SPF 15, £136, Anti-Aging Eye and Lip Perfection à Porter £126, Light Fantastic Cellular Concealing Brightening Eye Treatment £48, Cellular Treatment Bronzing Powder £46; FASHION Christopher Kane top from a selection
PROMO T ION
LAURA MERCIER Creative contouring Lifting the lid on her own artistry techniques, Laura Mercier hands over her sculpting secret – the new Flawless Contouring Palette. With five shades of crème (three neutral matte browns for shading and two highlighters for reflecting light), this palette also includes Mercier’s step-by-step guide to professional contouring. BEAUTY Laura Mercier Flawless Contouring Palette
£35, Crème Cheek Colour in Canyon £21.50, Crème Cheek Colour brush £29, Caviar Stick Eye Colour in Amethyst £22, Tightline Cake Eye Liner in Black Ebony £19.50, Full Blown Volume Supreme Lash Building Mascara in Black £19.50, Crème Smooth Lip Colour in Hollywood £21; FASHION Elie Saab jumpsuit £4,050
NARS Balance and blend Peachy nectarine meets rich chestnut in the delicious St-Paul-De-Vence Duo Eyeshadow from NARS. For a new take on the smoky eye, blend orange over the lid and then add definition with brown, working along the lash line and up into the socket for depth. BEAUTY NARS Siberia All Day Luminous Weightless Foundation £24, Vanilla Radiant Creamy Concealer £22, Reckless Blush in Sheer Pink Shimmer £23, Porto Venere Eye Paint £18.50, St-Paul-de-Vence Duo Eyeshadow in Chestnut £25, Via Veneto Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner £19, Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara £19, Belle De Jour Velvet Matte Lip Pencil £16.50, Liguria Lipstick £19.50, Blending Brush no. 42, £26, Nail Polish in Bad Influence £15; FASHION Elie Saab top £2,675
PROMO T ION
HOURGLASS Blush hour Discover the custom effects of Ambient Lighting Powder fused with modern cheek colours for a soft-focus look. Thanks to photoluminescent technology, the revolutionary Ambient Lighting Blush brings depth and dimension. BEAUTY Hourglass Illusion Tinted Moisturizer £45, Ambient Lighting Blush in Luminous Flush £28, No.2 Foundation/Blush Brush £52, Arch Brow Sculpting Pencil in Soft Brunette £26, 1.5MM Mechanical Gel Eye Liner £36, Film Noir Full Spectrum Mascara in Onyx £25, Femme Nude Lip Stylo in Nude 1, £22; FASHION Ralph Lauren gown £4,850
SUQQU Wide-eyed Framing eyes with this season’s hot shades, Suqqu’s Blend Color Eyeshadow is a four-tone eye palette, perfect for layering the Japanese way. After using the darker shades on the socket line and along the lower lash line, blend the lighter of the pearly tones around the inner corner. The effect is beguiling. BEAUTY Suqqu Pore Covering Powder £29, Balancing Cheeks in 04, £38, Blend Color Eyeshadow in 18, £45, Balancing Eyebrow in 02 Brown £38, Eyeliner Creamy in 04, £14, Mascara Volume Curl in 01, £29, Creamy Glow Lipstick in 18, £27, Nail Color in EX-10 Yuuzakura £18; FASHION Lanvin dress from a selection
PROMO T ION
BY TERRY Perfecting the pout In nearly nude tones, Hyaluronic Sheer Rouge smooths, fills fine lines and volumises so lips look natural – but better. Available in five shades designed to suit all skin tones, this lipstick also hydrates and nourishes. Call it the cushioning effect. BEAUTY By Terry Cellularose Mosturizing CC Cream £59, Cellularose Blush Glacé Allover Edition £38, Ombre Blackstar eyeshadow in 04 Bronze Moon and 13 Brown Perfection £29 each, Growth Booster Mascara in Terryfic Blue £33.50, Eyebrow Mascara in 04 Dark Brown £24, Hyaluronic Sheer Rouge lipstick in 04 Sheer Glow £25, Nail Laque in Terrybly £21; FASHION Jenny Packham dress £2,450
PROMO T ION
SHOW BEAUTY Bounce back For long-lasting hold with a flexible finish, Show Beauty’s Premiere Finishing Spray is designed to keep hair in place, even after brushing. The fine mist is also infused with argan oil and AC Kerazyme to moisturise and protect locks from thermal styling tools. BEAUTY Show Beauty Premiere Finishing Spray £30 and Working Texture Spray £30, Divine Thickening Lotion £40, Sheer Thermal Protect £35, Lux Volume Mist £35; FASHION Missoni dress £1,699
Available from The Colour and Cosmetics Halls, Ground Floor; Eveningwear and International Designer, First Floor; The Make-Up Salon Urban Retreat, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com
Hair TRACIE CANT at Premier Make-up KELLY CORNWELL at Premier Nails AMA QUASHIE at CLM Model DJAJA BAECKE at M+P Assistant Beauty Editor REBECCA BAIO Hair Assistant KUMIKO TSUMAGARI Make-up Assistant JADE BIRD Photographer’s Assistant ROMAN SAKOVICH Digital Operator MATT FOXLY
X WATCH Download the Harrods Magazine app for a journey through the looking glass
Crème de la Mer Moisturizing Cream 60ml, £200
Secrets of the DEEP
Sea kelp. Sound waves. Vats of bubbling broth. Andy Bevacqua, vice president of research and development at The Max Huber Research Labs, talks about the heritage and science behind Crème de la Mer BY J
It’s a wish-you-were-here picture-postcard day in Mawgan Porth, Cornwall, as Andy Bevacqua surveys the bay from a balcony at the Scarlet Hotel. He’s over from New York on a flying visit and it’s the perfect spot to chat with the man who was responsible for ensuring the original Crème de la Mer formula wasn’t lost after its inventor, aerospace physicist Dr Max Huber, passed away. When the Estée Lauder Companies bought the Crème in 1995, it was Bevacqua who learned how to replicate the original recipe and develop other products to create the renowned skincare line we know today. Here, he reveals the inside story. What’s your first memory of Crème de la Mer? Spending a month in California with Max Huber’s family and being taught how to make the Crème. It was eyeopening. I walked into a lab and saw vats with copper plates submerged in them. Wires were attached and I could hear weird sounds. Bubbling. Lights pulsing. I was amazed. Tell us about Max Huber. I never had a chance to meet the man before he died, unfortunately. But he was a physicist who worked with rockets – and, as such, he thought of everything in terms of energy. For example, even an object like a chair has an energetic component to it. Max applied this knowledge to cosmetics, which was a different way of thinking.
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Why was he interested in skincare? He had suffered some severe burns caused by rocket fuel during an experiment, and his body was scarred. No doctors seemed able to help him, so he set out to create his own solution. It took him 12 years and 6,000 experiments, but he came up with what he called Miracle Broth, a potent blend of marine ingredients that undergo a three- to four-month bio-fermentation process. How did Estée Lauder become involved? The Lauder family was very interested in Crème de la Mer long before acquiring it and had approached Huber several times, though he never wanted to sell. But after he passed away, his family was unable to replicate the Miracle Broth, even though he had explained how to do it. There was nothing written down. So Huber’s relatives decided that they’d rather Estée Lauder try to revive it than have the product die with him. How did you start making it? I was given 12 months to work the process out. Luckily, there was still some Miracle Broth left when Huber died. After a couple of new fermentations, I created a formula that looked and smelled like Miracle Broth. But when it was tested, it didn’t have the same activity – for instance, it didn’t have the same anti-inflammatory properties. Most Mondays, my boss would call me into his office and ask
Andy Bevacqua in Mawgan Porth, Cornwall
The GOOD MIXER
French raclette is the ultimate winter warmer when melted in fondue or tartiette, or poured over potatoes BY PA
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TAMIN JONES SEIKO HATFIELD HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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PREVIOUS PAGE Alexandre Turpault napkins £24.95 each; Villeroy & Boch Bernadotte white wine goblets £23.50 each, Anmut individual bowl £17.95 and Artesano Original salad plate £9.50, pickle dish £15.95, dip bowl £5.95 and side plate £7.50; Arthur Price Rattail table knives £23 each and table forks £18 each; THIS PAGE, FOOD Jean Perrin raclette washed with vin d’Arbois £2.50 per 100g; HOMEWARES Laguiole olivewood cheese knife £279 for a set of 3; ABOVE Montbéliarde cows in the Jura Mountains
There’s one other key connection between Jean Perrin’s raclette and the hills of the Jura. The cheeses are matured on spruce shelves for two months and washed in a distinctive white wine from the region, called vin d’Arbois. Made from Chardonnay and Savagnin grapes, the wine, little known outside the Jura, has a soft, nutty flavour with hints of apricot. “It adds flavour to the cheese in the same way that Marc de Bourgogne gives flavour to Époisses,” Lachaux explains. “It’s also a really nice wine to drink when you’re eating raclette – something that’s very traditional in the Jura.” Beyond a glass of vin d’Arbois and boiled potatoes (skin on is de rigueur), purists like to serve raclette with pickles, a sprinkle of paprika and a platter of local charcuterie, such as brési made with smoked Montbéliarde beef. The cheese is also lovely in tartiflette and irresistible melted on a tartine (open sandwich), while cheese toasties take on a whole new meaning once you use raclette. However you eat it, the most important thing is to enjoy it with company, Lachaux says. “It’s not something I have just with my husband. Raclette is perfect for when we have friends and family to visit, because it’s so convivial. As you’re waiting for the cheese to melt, you have time to talk.” HMN Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor. Homewares available from Cookshop, Entertaining at Home and Villeroy & Boch, Second Floor Patrick McGuigan writes for Square Meal, ShortList and Restaurant
Cows Alamy
here’s no mistaking you’re in cheese country when you visit France’s Jura Mountains. Brown-and-white Montbéliarde cows dot the landscape wherever you go along the Franco-Swiss border. Their milk has been used for centuries to make world-class cheeses – from fruity Comté and unctuous Vacherin to ash-lined Morbier – but, for the winter sports fanatics that flock to the Jura, there is only one fromage on the menu after a day on the slopes. Velvety blankets of melted raclette cheese poured over potatoes are the ultimate winter warmer, guaranteed to thaw the hearts of hardy mountain dwellers and holidaymakers alike. “For me, raclette is pure comfort food,” says Angélique Lachaux, who lives in the Jura and works as a sales manager at Fromi, a French cheese supplier that exports raclette around the world. “When it’s cold outside, it’s natural that you want something rich and warm and fun.” The term raclette (which describes both the cheese itself and the celebrated dish in which it is melted) comes from the French word racler, meaning “to scrape”. Traditionally, a whole cheese is cut in half and one side heated using a special grill; then the blistering, molten curd is scraped over the potatoes at the table. Raclette is arguably most famously associated with Switzerland, and Valais in particular, where legend has it that cowherds would melt the cheese next to their campfires when grazing cattle high in the mountains. But it is also ingrained in French food culture, especially in the Savoie and the Jura. While similar in style, cheeses from the different regions all have their own characteristics, with the milk reflecting the local geography and climate in much the same way as wine expresses its terroir. This is particularly true of Fromi’s raclette du Jura, which is made by a family-owned cheese company called Jean Perrin using unpasteurised milk. The milk’s natural yeasts, and bacteria from the farm and dairy, give the cheese complex layers of flavour and a strong sense of place. The sweet, tangy and mellow cheese is perfectly balanced and supple, transforming into silky goo when heated. “It’s not a strong cheese, but has nice fruity notes and a lovely, smooth texture that’s just perfect for melting,” Lachaux says. She says the diet of the Montbéliarde cows also plays a role in the final flavour. “You have different types of flowers and mountain herbs that are native to the Jura, so the milk and the cheese from here will always be a little bit different from Switzerland or the Savoie.” Set up by a husband-and-wife team in 1965, Jean Perrin is today run by their two sons Jean-Marie and Jean-Luc, who combine traditional cheesemaking skills with contemporary production techniques. Milk is supplied by about 100 local farms, which typically have just 30 to 100 cows – a relatively small number compared to many modern dairy herds. The animals eat only fresh mountain grass or feed grown by the farms to retain the sense of terroir. “The farms work in a traditional way,” Lachaux says. “They’re close to the land and the animals so they can keep an eye on the quality of the milk.”
RACLETTE AND GIROLLE TARTINE
MELTED RACLETTE ON ASPARAGUS WRAPPED WITH HAM Serves 4–6
4 slices sourdough bread 10g unsalted butter 40g French Bordier smoked-salt butter (Note: if you can’t find this, use unsalted butter and ¼ tsp Welsh Halen Môn smoked salt) 1 large garlic clove, very thinly sliced 400g girolle mushrooms 1 tbsp white wine 160g raclette cheese, sliced Leaves from a sprig of oregano
300g asparagus (about 16 spears) 180g prosciutto cotto or Parma ham 2 tbsp vegetable oil 100g raclette cheese
Serves 4
1 Set the grill to high and toast both sides of the bread until golden. Spread the unsalted butter on one side of the toast and keep warm. 2 In the meantime, place a frying pan on a medium heat and add half of the French Bordier butter. Once it is melted, add the garlic and fry for 1 minute. Next, add the mushrooms. Fry for a few minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon. When all of the mushrooms are thoroughly coated with the butter, add the white wine and stir well. Add the remaining butter and continue to stir. 3 Place the raclette slices into a separate frying pan and heat until melted and bubbly. Divide the mushrooms among the slices of toast and pour the melted raclette over the top. Sprinkle with oregano and black pepper. Serve immediately.
Serve with...
Serve with... Silverado Vineyards Vineburg Vineyard Chardonnay 2012, Carneros, USA £39.95
1 Cut an inch off the ends of the asparagus spears and, using a peeler, peel the bottom halves. Cook the asparagus in a large pan of salted water over a medium heat for 3 minutes, then drain. Put the asparagus in a bowl of cold water and set aside. Once cool, drain it again and dry with kitchen paper. 2 Wrap the ham slices around the asparagus and place on a baking tray. 3 Warm a large frying pan or a griddle pan over a high heat, add the oil and cook the ham-wrapped asparagus for a few minutes until the ham has become golden and slightly crispy. Arrange on a large plate. 4 Next, heat a small pan and add the raclette. Once melted and bubbling, pour the cheese over the ham-wrapped asparagus. Season with salt and pepper, and serve immediately.
Penfolds Reserve Bin 12A Chardonnay 2012, Adelaide Hills, Australia £59.95
Villeroy & Boch Bernadotte white wine goblets £23.50 each
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Villeroy & Boch Artesano Original bowl £9.50, dinner plate £15.95 and salad plate £9.50; Alexandre Turpault napkin £24.95; Arthur Price Rattail table knife £23 and table fork £18
FOOD
THREE-CHEESE FONDUE Serves 4
For the fondue 500ml white wine, plus two tablespoons 1 clove garlic, crushed 2 tsp arrowroot or cornstarch ½ tsp English mustard powder A few pinches of nutmeg 300g Fontina cheese 300g raclette cheese 270g Reblochon cheese To serve 400g miniature or new potatoes 200g sourdough bread Crudités such as chicory, tomatoes, French radishes, carrots and blanched romanesco
Serve with... Domaine Pierre Morey Bourgogne Chardonnay 2011, Burgundy, France £26.95
1 Put 500ml white wine and the garlic in a fondue pot or a pan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and leave the garlic in the wine for 10 minutes to infuse. In a small bowl or a glass, mix the arrowroot or cornstarch, mustard powder and nutmeg and dilute with two tablespoons of wine. 2 Cook the potatoes in boiling salted water for about 10 minutes, then drain and set aside in a warm bowl. Cut the bread into chunks. Arrange the bread and crudités on a large plate. 3 Grate the Fontina, and cut the other cheeses into small pieces. Remove the garlic from the fondue pot and reheat the wine. Add the arrowroot or cornstarch mixture, and stir well. Then add the cheese, a handful at a time, stirring frequently. Season with pepper. 4 Place the fondue pot over its burner on a warming setting. If you don’t have a fondue set, fill a shallow pan with hot water and place the pan containing the fondue in the centre. This helps to keep it warm. Serve immediately and eat by dipping the potatoes, bread and crudités into the fondue sauce.
Villeroy & Boch Bernadotte white wine goblets £23.50 each and Artesano Original dinner plate £15.95, salad plate £9.50 and dip bowls £11.90 each; Le Creuset fondue set £120; Alexandre Turpault napkin £24.95
TARTIFLETTE Serves 4
2 small onions (200g), thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, finely sliced 1 tsp extra-virgin olive oil 150g bacon lardons 450g waxy potatoes, cut into bite-size chunks 150g raclette cheese 150g Reblochon cheese 150ml double cream
Serve with... Cave de Turckheim Reserve Pinot Gris 2013, Alsace, France £12.95
1 Fry the onion and garlic in the oil over a low heat for 15 minutes. Once caramelised, place the onion and garlic on a plate and set aside. Add the lardons to the pan and cook for 7 minutes until crispy. 2 Boil the potato chunks in a pan of salted water for 5 minutes or until a skewer will glide through. Drain and set aside. 3 Heat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6. 4 Cut the cheese into half-inch cubes. Pour a small amount of double cream into an ovenproof dish, then scatter with half of the potato, half of the onion-garlic mix, half of the lardons and half of the cheese. 5 Next, pour over half of the remaining cream. Again, scatter with the remaining potato, onion and garlic, lardons and cheese. 6 Finish off with the remaining cream and season with salt and pepper. 7 Bake for 15 to 20 minutes or until the cheese has become bubbly and golden. Serve immediately.
Le Creuset pie dish £18.95; Villeroy & Boch Artesano Original salad plate £9.50; Arthur Price Rattail dessert spoon £15 Wine available from The Wine Rooms, Lower Ground Floor. Homewares available from Cookshop, Entertaining at Home and Villeroy & Boch, Second Floor; and harrods.com HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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The HOT CHOCOLATE
Mazet Boîte Bonnes Choses Hazelnut Assortment 200g, £28.95
BbyB Golden Chocolate Selection 75g, £10.95
La Maison du Chocolat Glazed Chestnuts 272g, £38.40
Deliciously YOURS
Aux Anysetiers du Roy Valentine Chocolate Fondue Milk & Caramel 200g, £9.95
Melt hearts on Valentine’s Day with hot chocolate, biscuits and... more chocolate
Forrey & Galland Chocolate Sable, Chocolate Chip and Vanilla Sable Cookies 200g, £15.95 each
William Curley House Blend Hot Chocolate 250g, £15
NEED HI_RES
Maison Blanc Dark Chocolate Espresso Beans 150g, £5.95 and Chocolate Truffle Figs 144g, £10.95
Dorotea Cocoa Cream Pastries 250g, £3.95
Roberto Cavalli Giraffe Praline Chocolate Selection 750g, £149.95
Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor; and harrods.com
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Godiva assortment of chocolates 11-piece gift box £23
Main photo Tamin Jones; food styling Seiko Hatfield; prop styling Jennifer Kay
Harrods Hot Chocolate 300g, £9.95
Holdsworth A Truly Scrumptious Collection of Marc de Champagne Truffles 125g, £8.95
NEWS
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IAN PENGELLEY by Guy Woodward Ian Pengelley is group executive chef of Mango Tree and Pan Chai restaurants, and last month launched Chai Wu, a modern Chinese restaurant, on Harrods’ Fifth Floor.
THINK PINK
Rosé in February might seem strange, but not on the 14th. And there are few, if any, more nuanced renditions of the style than the wines of Château d’Esclans in the world’s premier rosé region, Provence. From its colour (ballet slipper rather than flamingo pink) to its palate (refined rather than rich), this is fine wine first and rosé wine second. Expect density and fresh summer-fruit tones from the château’s limited-edition, top-of-the-range Garrus 2012 and the d’Esclans 2013. D’Esclans Rosé 2013, £29.95 and Garrus Rosé 2012, £99.95. Available from The Wine Rooms, Lower Ground Floor
From the heart
It’s the time of year when men consider how best to shower their beloved with goodies such as chocolates, wine, candles, lotions and potions. Or, of course, the truly enamoured can give it all, with the Harrods for Her hamper. Rosé Champagne and truffles may be standard on such occasions, but chocolate-enrobed marshmallows are a nice extra touch – as is the naturally luxurious skincare from organic farm Daylesford. Light that heart-shaped candle and let the pampering begin. £140. Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor
Where love BLOSSOMS For those who consider Valentine’s Day as the perfect excuse for chocolate, chocolate and more chocolate, the 100-year-old Parisian boutique brand Forrey & Galland is one to know. Originally a haven for sweet-toothed members of the establishment on Avenue Victor Hugo, this most creative of chocolatiers is now based in a Dubai atelier with 50 artisans. There, it crafts intricate handmade chocolates, sweets, petits fours, cakes and macaroons in distinctive flavours, including floral, spice, fruit and tea elements. The house’s products come lavishly packaged, with, as luck would have it, a particular focus on flowers. 250g box, £64.95. Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor
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“I love opening new restaurants. Chai Wu is about taking the best of Chinese food and making it more glamorous, more elegant, by using only the finest ingredients, great techniques and lots of theatrics. People eat with their eyes first, and Chai Wu is named after the five elements of Chinese philosophy – wood, fire, earth, metal and water. That inspired the design. So there’s a charcoal grill at the centre with a dining bar around it, as well as a more formal seated area. We’re serving the classic dishes – Beijing duck, Chilean sea bass – but sexed up. There’s a crispy chicken mixed with dried chillies, Szechuan pepper and wine vinegar, served in a birdcage. We’re also trying some unusual dim sum. And I want to serve a Chinese tree, with chocolates clipped to it and chocolate “soil”. I moved to Hong Kong when I was 20 and worked in kitchens. FROM TOP Chai Wu on the I was the only Fifth Floor; short rib beef with sweet honey glaze; Westerner and they sweet and sour chicken all laughed at me. I served in a dragon fruit ended up spending nine years there. I love the culture and I love the concept of Asian cooking – sharing lots of small dishes in the centre of the table. I go on a research trip to Asia every year – Singapore, Hong Kong, Shanghai or Tokyo. I try to find little places recommended by local chefs. I went to 13 restaurants in nine days on my latest trip. I always discover something new. I had whale sperm in Tokyo, without knowing what it was. I’m glad I didn’t know. Singapore is a big trendsetter right now. But so is London. I’m a big fan of Hakkasan and Sushisamba. The trends are very much moving away from tasting menus. Even Marcus Wareing is more informal these days.”
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COOKING MASTERCLASSES
Throughout February, appliance brands including Miele, Jura and KitchenAid will be coming over all gooey-eyed as they demonstrate how to make romantic recipes for Valentine’s Day.
Sage Saturday 7th February, 11am –7pm, Sunday 8th & Sunday 15th February, 11.30am–6pm Chefs from Sage will make Italian-inspired dishes including rocket and almond pesto, mushroom risotto and ice cream.
KitchenAid Thursday 12th & Friday 13th February, 11.30am–4pm Using the kitchen appliance of the moment – the Artisan 6.9L mixer – the team at KitchenAid will make a heart-shaped sponge cake and iced cupcakes.
Jura Saturday 14th February, 12pm– 4pm Swiss coffee experts Jura will show guests how to decorate cappuccinos with powdered-chocolate hearts.
Miele Saturday 14th February, 12pm–5pm Using the brand’s combination steam oven, Miele chefs will prepare a special Valentine’s Day menu: beef Wellington, lobster Thermidor and a trio of chocolate desserts.
Samsung Saturday 14th February, 12pm–3pm Technology rules in the Samsung kitchen, where the brand’s ambassadors will demonstrate the self-cleaning dual-cook oven and induction hob while making Valentine’s Day cakes.
Cuisinart Friday 20th February, 12pm–5pm Bringing versatility to home cooking, the Cuisinart team will use the four-way non-stick Griddle & Grill to make American-style pancakes.
The Champagne Bar Tucked away on the First Floor, The Champagne Bar serves a selection of vintages from the Hostomme family vineyard in the Côte des Blancs. Open Monday to Saturday 11.30am–7pm and Sunday 11.30am–6pm. For more information, please call 020 7730 1234 and ask for The Cookshop, Home Appliances or The Champagne Bar. Please note: these are not ticketed events.
NEWS
BRIGHT idea
SLEEP
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We spend about a third of our life asleep, so it’s important to rest in style. That’s where Hästens comes in. The Swedish bed specialist’s latest handmade design, Vividus, includes a quilted wool, mohair, horsetail hair and cotton mattress topper that LUOHUJLZ HPYÅV^ ;OL ILK ¶ ^OPJO [HRLZ \W [V OV\YZ [V THRL ¶ KPZ[YPI\[LZ ^LPNO[ L]LUS` MVY maximum comfort. £61,490. Available from Hästens, Third Floor
No one does ornate décor and opulent glassware quite like Baldi, and the Italian design company has now built on the success of its Joy homewares portfolio by introducing the Joy 2 range, extending the brand’s repertoire to encompass lighting. The Joy 2 pendant lights are made from hand-blown faceted crystal to ensure mesmerising reflections with a typically lavish touch, bringing a whole new meaning to mood lighting; and with six colour choices, from warm amber to exuberant purple, there’s a hue to suit every occasion. Price on request. Available from Luxury Home, Second Floor
AIR apparent At just 6.1mm thick and weighing less than a tin of beans, the iPad Air 2 is a powerhouse, despite its modest proportions. The redesigned Retina display fuses three layers into one, making it much thinner without compromising on graphics. It also has the best iPad camera to date, with advanced optics and panoramic options. Selfies never looked so good. From £399. Available from Harrods Technology, Third Floor
UPPER CRUST Who hasn’t craved a perfectly crisp pizza, only to be disappointed with burnt toppings and a soggy base? After 20 years of research, Daniel Chadwick has found a solution for those who lack a wood-fired oven. His spaceship-like stainless-steel Chadwick Oven sits on a gas ring and can reach the prime pizza-cooking temperature of 500°C in around 12 minutes. Pizza bakes in just four minutes; naan and pitta breads are ready in 60 seconds. £385. Available from Cookshop, Second Floor
LIFE SCIENCE Tom Dixon is a man of many talents. Having started out in music, he moved on to welding discarded objects into usable pieces before becoming a furniture designer. In keeping with his rock’n’roll attitude, Dixon’s latest venture is a range of bar accessories with a laboratory vibe. The four-piece copper and hand-blown glass Tank collection includes a highball for long cocktails, a lowball for short drinks, an Erlenmeyer flask-style jug and a wine decanter. The only thing missing is a Bunsen burner. From £45. Available from Tom Dixon, Third Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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WRIT LARGE
Joining such scientific, cultural and political giants as Albert Einstein, Leonardo da Vinci and Mahatma Gandhi, John F Kennedy is the latest figure to be commemorated with a Great Characters writing instrument from Montblanc. The life of the youngest-ever US president is referenced via the Special Edition’s design: rings on the barrels symbolise his military career; the three rings on the cap represent his three brothers; and his initials adorn the clip. The Limited Edition collection numbers 1,917, in reference to the president’s birth year, while the solid-gold Artisan Edition fountain pen is limited to 83 pieces. Limited Edition 1917 fountain pen £2,510. Available from The Great Writing Room, Second Floor
Liquid ASSETS Some vessels are designed to draw out a liquid’s gustatory and olfactory nuances. Others are designed simply to look good. Not that the tea or coffee drunk from Puiforcat’s new four-piece set, Fluidité, will be anything but divine, but this is a line that fits firmly in the latter category. Designed by Aldo Bakker, the set is characterised by contrast, with straight lines against curves, sterling silver against ebony wood, and dark ruthenium against rose gold. The teapot, coffee pot, creamer and sugar bowl are limited to just 10 pieces. Shall we put the kettle on? £66,500. Available from Luxury Home, Second Floor
Royal Love Stories by Gill Paul Here are tales of jubilant and tragic regal relationships across the ages – from Austria’s Crown Prince Rudolph, to the love between Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette. £12.99 Wuthering Heights by Emily Brontë A uniquely powerful novel that transcends generations and defies genres, this new edition contains an introduction by singer-songwriter and poet Patti Smith. £36.95 Pride and Prejudice by Jane Austen A captivating story of romance by one of the most revered authors of all time, and now introduced by Sebastian Faulks and illustrated by Anna and Elena Balbusso. £38.95
Exceptional cases Business doesn’t have to be boring. To prove the point, American luxury luggage brand Tumi has launched an exclusive line of business bags in exotic skins. Briefcases and attachés are rendered in the collection, which comes in black alligator and anthracite ostrich. Hand-stitched in Italy, the bags feature a customisable monogram patch, as well as Add-a-Bag sleeves, tech pockets and removable shoulder straps. They also come with built-in blocking technology, which prevents chips containing personal data in your passport and cards from being read by those nearby. Alligator attaché and briefcase £24,995 each; exclusive to Harrods. Available from Travel Goods & Luggage, Second Floor
Love Letters of the Great War by Mandy Kirkby From letters written by broken-hearted wives to the emotive accounts of fighting soldiers, this collected correspondence offers an intimate glimpse of both love and war. £9.99 The Little Book of Love by Kahlil Gibran Filled with inspirational quotes, exercises and advice on the complexities of love and how to make it last, this book is perfect for a partner or anyone searching for love. £5.99 Available from Harrods Books & Cards, Second Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE
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HANS COURT Knightsbridge, SW3 A five-bedroom apartment of 3,728sq ft (346sq m) is situated on the fourth floor of this elegant, purpose-built mansion block in central Knightsbridge. Meticulously refurbished to the highest specifications, the generously proportioned apartment has three large reception rooms and five bedroom suites including two master suites. Located directly opposite Harrods, the discreet residential block – complete with charming entrance lobby and communal areas, a lift and a resident porter – comprises a small number of large apartments. Perfectly situated for all the amenities of Knightsbridge, Hans Court is also just moments from Hyde Park, Sloane Street and the West End. EPC rating E. Leasehold: Approximately 157 years remaining Guide price: £13,950,000 020 7225 6508 shaun.drummond@harrodsestates.com
HAR R O DSEST AT ES.CO M
ONE HYDE PARK, Knightsbridge, SW1X On the second floor of this renowned development, a spacious (1,027sq ft/95sq m) one-bedroom apartment – interior designed by Candy & Candy – features bespoke furniture, luxurious materials and cutting-edge technology. Residents can also access the private cinema, games room, squash court, gym, spa, swimming pool and concierge (including valet parking) at the neighbouring Mandarin Oriental hotel. The apartment, which is offered fully furnished, comes with one underground parking space, a separate storage unit and wine storage. EPC rating C. Leasehold: 999 years remaining Price: £5,600,000 020 7225 6509 shaun.drummond@harrodsestates.com
KNIGHTSBRIDGE OFFICE: 82 BROMPTON ROAD LONDON SW3 1ER T: +44 (0)20 7225 6506 MAYFAIR OFFICE: 61 PARK LANE LONDON W1 1QF T: +44 (0)20 7409 9001 CHELSEA OFFICE: 58 FULHAM ROAD LONDON SW3 6HH T: +44 (0)20 7225 6700 HARRODSESTATES.COM
Carolyn BessetteKennedy
At the 2014 Festival de Cannes
In her role as the face of Prada Candy
ith siste
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y style
She’s played a blue-haired artist in the award-winning Blue Is the Warmest Color, the legendary Loulou de la Falaise in Saint Laurent and is now gearing up to be the next Bond girl; France’s actress du jour talks red-carpet style and beauty essentials BY
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Prada dress £1,835
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You’ve appeared on best-dressed lists around the world. What does style mean to you? I consider style an intrinsic elegance. You made a big impression at last year’s Cannes film festival – and it was an unforgettable night when you won your Palme d’Or award in 2013. How do you choose an outfit for the red carpet? I’m always asking my sister, Camille, for tips. She’s definitely the best adviser. Who are your go-to designers? Prada for its modern, inventive and fanciful nature; and those brands that are representative of classic Parisian chic. If you were to dress head to toe in a single label, which would it be? Prada, of course. What does an off-duty outfit look like for you? Manly high-waisted trousers with sneakers and a backpack – they’re the essentials for a casual look. Whose style do you admire? Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy, for her timeless grace.
You seem fearless about changing hairstyles – you’ve had long, short and in-between. Is there a length or cut you like best? The coupe au carré [a sharp bob] is my favourite. You’re the face of Prada’s Candy fragrance. What’s it like to be a poster girl – and have you enjoyed playing “Candy” in the Wes Anderson shorts? It’s always a pleasure to play Candy because she’s a character I know well, after three Candy experiences. The most exciting and stimulating thing about playing her is that each time I get to explore new elements of her personality. What are your beauty essentials? I can’t spend a day without a spritz of Prada perfume and a few beauty essentials: Eight Hour Cream by Elizabeth Arden, a By Terry Baume de Rose balm, Sisley’s Black Rose Cream Mask and a Nars lip pencil. Available from The Beauty Apothecary and The Perfumery Hall, Ground Floor; Superbrands, First Floor; Urban Retreat, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com
Seydoux at Cannes and with Camille; Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy Getty Images; film posters Rex Features
LÉA SEYDOUX