Harrods Magazine June/July 2015 by Harrods online

JUNE/JULY 2015

THE SUPERBRANDS HAVE LANDED harrods.com

THE SUPERBRANDS HAVE LANDED Out-of-this-world collections ямБnd a new home

MAGAZINE DIRECTOR OF CREATIVE MARKETING DEBORAH BEE DIRECTOR OF CREATIVE OPERATIONS BETH HODDER ART DIRECTOR BARNEY PICKARD PUBLISHER DAWN HALL

EDITORIAL EDITOR JAN MASTERS ACTING ASSOCIATE EDITOR GUY WOODWARD FASHION FEATURES EDITOR LINDSAY MACPHERSON LIFESTYLE EDITOR AMY BROOMFIELD CONTRIBUTING WRITER MARIA MILANO ASSISTANT BEAUTY EDITOR REBECCA BAIO CHIEF SUB-EDITORS LISA HILLMAN, NICOLETTE THOMPSON SENIOR SUB-EDITORS CAROLINE HUNT, JO MATTOCK SUB-EDITOR MARNIE CLARKE

ART DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR SONJA BURRI ART EDITOR NATALIE BOO MOSQUERA SENIOR DESIGNER RACHEL ESCUDIER JUNIOR DESIGNER GINA HOLLINGSWORTH PHOTOGRAPHY BOOKINGS EDITOR WENDY HINTON PROP STYLIST JENNIFER KAY PRODUCER EMILY SELLERS ASSISTANT BOOKINGS EDITOR KIAAN ORANGE PHOTOGRAPHY BOOKINGS ADMINISTRATOR LAIDE PITAN

FASHION FASHION EDITOR VICTORIA GAIGER DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR POPPY ROCK SENIOR FASHION ASSISTANT BECKY BRANCH JUNIOR FASHION ASSISTANT OLIVIA HALSALL

DIGITAL DIGITAL OPERATIONS MANAGER ARNAUD BURTIN DIGITAL MARKETING EXECUTIVE MEI WILSON HEAD OF DIGITAL DESIGN BOB DEVSI MOTION GRAPHICS & VIDEO DESIGNER JAIME RIVERA DIGITAL DESIGNER STEFANO CASO JUNIOR DIGITAL DESIGNER TAK YEUNG CHEUNG DIGITAL DESIGN ASSISTANT PRADEEP BALASUBRAMANIAN

PUBLISHING MANAGING EDITOR SUZY CHAPMAN ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER RACHEL MONCUR PUBLISHING ASSISTANT PHOEBE FISHER PA TO DIRECTOR OF CREATIVE MARKETING & DIRECTOR OF CREATIVE OPERATIONS

MADALAINE MCCARTHY PRODUCTION PRODUCTION MANAGER HAYLEY YOUNG PRODUCTION EXECUTIVES KIERAN HORGAN, CAMILLA

JOSEPHS

HARRODS STORE IMAGE GROUP DIRECTOR OF CORPORATE AFFAIRS KATHARINE WITTY DIRECTOR OF CUSTOMER RELATIONSHIP MANAGEMENT AND PERSONAL SHOPPING CHIARA

VARESE

HARRODS MEDIA MEDIA SALES DIRECTOR GUY CHESTON HEAD OF MEDIA SALES CHARLOTTE MARKS ACTING HEAD OF MEDIA SALES AND MEDIA SALES MANAGER, HOME CHRIS MEDIA PROMOTIONS PROJECT EXECUTIVE LARA KELLY

SWEET

MEDIA MARKETING MANAGER KATIE ARNAUD MEDIA MARKETING EXECUTIVE LAURA PARSONS MEDIA PLANNING & OPERATIONS MANAGER CASSANDRA ASHFORD MEDIA PLANNING & OPERATIONS ASSISTANT JESSICA OWEN MARKETING & MEDIA SALES MANAGER, BEAUTY & HOME VIRGINIE DUIGOU MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVE, BEAUTY LOUISE FISH MARKETING EXECUTIVE, BEAUTY ABIGAIL SEKWALOR MARKETING ASSISTANT, BEAUTY & HOME EMMA EDMONDS MEDIA SALES MANAGER, FASHION & FASHION ACCESSORIES SOPHIE READ MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVES, FASHION STELLA BUBEL, CASSIE NORMAN & OLIVIA YOUNG MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVE, FASHION ACCESSORIES LAURA MONTIGIANI MEDIA SALES ASSISTANT, FASHION GABRIELLA INWANG MEDIA SALES MANAGER, FINE JEWELLERY, FINE WATCHES AND LUXURY JEWELLERY LUCINDA ANDREWS MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVE, FINE JEWELLERY, FINE WATCHES AND LUXURY JEWELLERY HARSHEEL BAINS MEDIA SALES ASSISTANT, FINE JEWELLERY, FINE WATCHES AND LUXURY JEWELLERY ELISE HAWKINS MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVE, FOOD HALLS, RESTAURANTS AND WINE SHOP NATHALIE NÖTZOLD MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVES, HOME ADELE BROUSSE, HASHIM JAVAID MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVE, THIRD PARTY KATIE ASTIN

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125,853 Period: 1st July 2014 to 31st December 2014

EDITOR’S LE T TER

JUNE/JULY 2015

THE SUPERBRANDS HAVE LANDED Out-of-this-world collections find a new home

They are the Superbrands. The planet’s most PUÅ\LU[PHS MHZOPVU OV\ZLZ

Main photo and cover image Ishi

Beamed down to a brand new space in-store. Their mission? To boldly go where they have never gone before, bringing us even more of their out-of-thisworld collections and exclusive pieces. Think of it as the final frontier. The chance to immerse yourself in brands from Chanel and Valentino to Dior and Prada, all in one place. Frankly, you need never stray from the mother ship again. We’re not just looking skyward, however, as we’re also exploring the life aquatic. Clearly, designers have heard the siren call and are making waves with mermaidy gowns and marine detailing. I adore this trend. The floaty starfishscattered dresses, the twisted-rope motifs, the deep azure shades and jewellery with talismanic charm. We also dive into the perfect pool of bright and breezy swimwear that stars splashes of neon and patterns from the ’70s. Whether you favour one-pieces or bikinis, these are the shapes that truly flatter. And as the sun shines and beaches beckon, it’s time to remind you to play it safe with new stash-and-carry suncare. When it comes to menswear, well, we’re really rocking the boat with nautical pieces. Forget natty jackets and naff embellishments. We’re talking something altogether more rugged for a touch of high-seas heroics. Classic stripes, textured knits and crisp cottons. Just add water.

Jan Masters Editor

HAR RODS M AGAZINE

CONTENTS

June/July 2015

86 BEAUTY

27 TOP 20 Launches, special offers and events for June and July

95 GUIDING LIGHT Protect and survive with super-smart suncare and skin-soothing balms that put the rest in the shade

37 MAIDEN VOYAGER Hollywood has already come calling, and Shakespeare is up next. Joanna Vanderham has talent, will travel

FASHION Photographer ISHI; Fashion Editor VICTORIA GAIGER; Hair PAUL DONOVAN at CLM using Acqua di Parma; Make-up JO FROST at CLM using SK-II; Nails ZARRA CELIK at LMC Worldwide using Chanel SS15; Model NOVA MALANOVA at Select wearing Valentino dress £3,915, bag £2,110 and boots from a selection

109

NEW THIS MONTH

31 ZEITGEIST What everyone’s talking about right now

COVER

41 THE LIFE AQUATIC Fashion has its sights set on the high seas this season, as designers make waves with siren-worthy gowns and marine detailing 45 HENRY THE GREAT He’s the French designer who turned Carven into a flourishing fashion house. Now, Guillaume Henry is bringing his brand of je ne sais quoi to Nina Ricci 48 TREND WATCH: MINI BAGS It’s time to get neat and petite – leave the portable pooches and weighty tomes at home 50 WOMENSWEAR NEWS Raoul’s urban-inspired Pre-Fall ’15 collection; the 2015 Millenary watch from Audemars Piguet; Australian label Keepsake; a few of fashion designer Athena Procopiou’s favourite things 55 WOMENSWEAR NEWS Carolina Herrera reimagines its archive prints; art-inspired atelier designs by Karen Millen; the Mikimoto Classic Elegance Collection; an interview with designer Dorothee Schumacher 56 SWIM CLUB Ocean hues and high-octane brights bring a new energy to seaside essentials 59 DANCE PARTNERS It’s curtain-up for Pas de Deux, Boodles’ evocative new collection inspired by The Royal Ballet 62 MENSWEAR NEWS Valentino looks to nature for summer ’15; Vacheron Constantin’s Harmony watch collection; Paul Smith’s innovative A Suit To Travel In; Style Rules checks out new directions in jeans 64 WHITE HOT A pale palette adds understated sophistication to clean-cut staples

100 SUNSHINE ESSENTIALS Expertly developed products providing UV protection, after-sun care and an alluring glow for the face and body 103 BEAUTY NEWS Gazelli Triple Youth skincare; innovative mascaras from Sisley, Guerlain and MAC for an eye-catching impact; Crème de la Mer puts the anti-ageing Miracle Broth to work in its Reparative SkinTint SPF 30; Miss Heaven Scent packs three summery, sultry fragrances in her holiday suitcase 104 HIGH FIVE Editor Jan Masters reveals her top five beauty treats for June and July 106 EXPERT TOUCH On the SS15 catwalk, Chanel juxtaposed nearly natural beauty with 1970s colour. Make-up maestro Mary Greenwell translates the trends

FOOD, INTERIORS & LIFESTYLE 109 DOMESTIC BLISS It’s time to look beyond French chèvre. Artisanal British goats’ cheeses such as Stawley and Tymsboro are challenging their Gallic rivals on their own turf 115 FOOD NEWS Fresh Cornish crab, prepared to order; the Hennessy 250 Collector Blend; bountiful hampers fit for a summer picnic; Harrods Chef of the Season Ollie Dabbous talks about his influences and creations 117 PIZZA CAKE The perfect pizza has traditionally been the preserve of big paddles and brick ovens, ideally in Naples. Now, though, home cooks have the tools to compete 122 INTERIORS NEWS Linley adds two jewellery boxes to its Precious Stone Collection; Timothy Oulton’s Glacier table; the Rocket jukebox by Sound Leisure, combining vintage looks with the latest technology; sumptuous bed linen from Italian fashion house La Perla; L’Objet’s Alchimie de Venise plates, bowls, table linen and lanterns

66 THE SUPERBRANDS HAVE LANDED Out-of-this-world collections. Exclusive pieces. This season, the planet’s most influential brands are beaming down to a new space

125 LIFESTYLE NEWS Chocolate from Italian producer Amedei; perfect cappuccino with the Jura Z6 coffee machine; Agresti’s Il Forziere Delle Ore’s counter-size armoire-safe; books for motoring enthusiasts

78 CASTAWAY Tropical colours and ’70s prints make a splash in traditional one-pieces and textured or crocheted bikinis. Just add water

126 HIDDEN GEM Once the economic jewel in Europe’s crown, now the centre of the world diamond trade, Antwerp is a city that’s full of surprises

86 ROCK THE BOAT It’s all plain sailing in menswear this season, with classic stripes, textured knits and crisp cottons, perfect for a shipshape summer wardrobe. Take the rough with the smooth

130 MY STYLE: LUCY WILLIAMS With her understated style and tips on everything from fashion to food and travel, the blogger has garnered a devoted following on her Fashion Me Now website HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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3H\UJOLZ ZWLJPHS VăLYZ HUK L]LU[Z MVY 1\UL 1\S` 1. Dior Nude Tan Four sun-kissed shades work in harmony to enhance skin’s radiance in the Tie Dye editions of Dior’s Nude Tan. £40. The Colour Hall, Ground Floor 2. Chanel SS15 Utility shirts, slouchy tweed and a feminist protest march were highlights at Lagerfeld’s “Boulevard Chanel” show. Dress £2,770 and trousers £700. Superbrands, First Floor 3. Jo Malone London Incense & Cedrat Transporting our senses to Oman, Jo Malone London’s Incense & Cedrat splices its hypnotic aroma with a citrus accord. 100ml, £120. The Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor 4. Montblanc 4810 fountain pen The limited-edition 4810 pen pays tribute to opera legend Pavarotti with its tuxedo-inspired lacquered barrel and engraved nib. £1,870. The Great Writing Room, Second Floor 5. Richard Mille RM 61-01 An homage to Olympic medallist Yohan Blake, the RM 61-01 timepiece from Richard Mille centres on high performance with a skeletonised titanium movement. £93,500 The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor 6. Furniture Sale From 6th June to 19th July, savings of up to 25% can be found on the best furniture and bed brands. Artistic Douglas chair sale price £2,319. Classics Room, Third Floor 7. Gift Concierge With Father’s Day on 21st June, the Gift Concierge team is on hand to help pick out the perfect present. For more information, please email giftconcierge@harrods.com 8. Hugo Boss menswear Sharp suiting is Boss’ signature. This season, slim-fit tailoring comes with crisp tees and easy-does-it shirts for off-duty cool. Suit £629. Men’s Collections, Lower Ground Floor 9. Louis Vuitton Denim Twist bag All is not as it seems with the Twist bag in Épi leather. The clever design has a wave-shaped base that’s much roomier than it looks. £1,935. Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor 10. Bentley Infinite Intense Black pepper and nutmeg meet aromatic lavender and geranium in Infinite Intense, Bentley’s charismatic scent for men. 100ml, £70. The Perfumery Hall, Ground Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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11. Harry Winston Secrets collection With each piece containing a hidden gem, Harry Winston’s Secrets collection pays homage to the jewellery house’s founder, who never revealed his identity to the public. The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor 12. Givenchy Immortelle Tribal A sensual and spicy addition to Givenchy’s L’Atelier range, Immortelle Tribal centres on the Corsican flower immortelle. 100ml, £150. The Perfumery Hall, Ground Floor 13. Céline Pre-Fall 2015 Expert in pared-down dressing Phoebe Philo has done it again with a collection that reinvents the Breton sweater as a casual dress. From £900. Superbrands, First Floor 14. G earrings Master jeweller Glenn Spiro knows how to make a statement. His latest cascading earrings combine titanium with tiered ruby cabochons and diamonds. Price on request. The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor 15. Gucci Lady Bamboo bag The evening edition of the Lady Bamboo bag is a perfectly proportioned mini-clutch in purple crocodile. £6,870; exclusive to Harrods. Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor 16. Ladurée-Mikimoto macaroons Collaborating with pearl expert Mikimoto, Ladurée introduces a rose-and-lychee macaroon, available in a limited-edition gift box decorated with illustrations of jewels. Box of 8, £19.80. Ladurée, Ground Floor 17. Prada AW15 Despite the pastel palette, Prada AW15 isn’t girlie. Neoprene-like fabrics add a sculptural touch, and tweed was spliced with fur panels on smart double-breasted jackets. Superbrands, First Floor 18. Hermès perfume Le Jardin de Monsieur Li from Hermès mirrors a Chinese garden with mint, jasmine and crisp kumquat notes. 100ml, £100. The Perfumery Hall, Ground Floor 19. Hublot Big Bang Unico The official watch of the international poker circuit – the playing card-themed Hublot Big Bang Unico chronograph – is available in 18kt gold or impact-resistant steel. £17,400. The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor 20. Clinique gift with purchase Receive six beauty treats when you purchase two or more Clinique products – one of which must be skincare – from 6th to 21st June. The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor

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PEOPLE & PLACES in the air in June/July BY

FROM LEFT Ermanno

and Toni Scervino

FASHION Ermanno Scervino, designer “When I was a boy, I dreamt that one day I’d dress the most beautiful women in the world,” remembers Ermanno Scervino. Despite being self-taught, the designer’s early ambitions have been realised: his dresses have been worn by everyone from Karolina Kurkova to Helena Christensen, Elle Macpherson to Madonna. Born in Milan, Scervino spent his early career working with designers in Europe before moving to New York, where he became a protégé of Andy Warhol. He eventually settled in Florence and, in 2000, together with his business partner Toni Scervino, founded his eponymous brand. The label is set apart by its form-fitting silhouettes, sportswear-influenced styling and a Felliniesque glamour. But another point of difference is the company’s commitment to old-fashioned craftsmanship. Every piece is produced in the company’s Tuscan headquarters. “It’s about combining Italian tradition with contemporary style,” says Ermanno. “I aim to translate the Made in Florence tag into a modern language.” Available from Luxury Collections, First Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE

ZEITGEIST

Sensational, often shocking – but never sensible: there are shoes of every (non-functional) type in this exhibition of extreme footwear. Among the more than 250 pairs on display are shoes for bound feet, fetish boots, the Vivienne Westwood platform heels in which Naomi Campbell fell over in 1993, and works from anonymous craftsmen and superstar designers alike. From 13th June to 31st January at the Victoria and Albert Museum

MUSIC Paloma Faith Helmut Newton’s photo, on display at Shoes: Pleasure and Pain, caused a stir in the February 1995 issue of American Vogue

Her most recent album was A Perfect Contradiction; the title is also an apt description of Paloma Faith. The Hackneyborn singer-songwriter conjures the timeless style of a traditional chanteuse while exuding edgy theatricality and eccentricity. The contrast is echoed by her choice of concert venue; the historic gardens at Kew will provide a showcase for her concoction of pop, soul and jazz. 7th and 9th July at Kew Royal Botanic Gardens

BOOK The Festival of Insigniﬁcance by Milan Kundera “No, dear cynics, the novel is not dead,” a reviewer in France was moved to write of The Festival of Insignificance. Now the No. 1 bestseller across Europe – the first novel by Kundera since 2000 – has been translated into English. The latest book from the great writer, whose works include The Unbearable Lightness of Being, is a philosophical yet humorous reflection on modern existence. Exploring the interplay between four Parisian friends and their preoccupations – politics, love, art – the book is a witty reminder of life’s absurdities and proof that, even at 86, Kundera’s powers are undiminished. £14.99. Available from Harrods Books & Cards, Second Floor

Paloma Faith

FILM Pan

Levi Miller and Hugh Jackman in Pan

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Just how did Peter Pan come to be the flying hero in JM Barrie’s children’s story? The answer can be found in this imaginative prequel from Joe Wright, the director who gave us Atonement and Anna Karenina. Young Peter (Levi Miller) is an orphan who is spirited away by pirates in an airborne ship and taken to the magical Neverland. There, he finds himself pitted against Blackbeard (Hugh Jackman in a deliciously villainous star turn) and allied with a surprising friend: Hook (Garrett Hedlund). Also starring Cara Delevingne, Amanda Seyfried and Rooney Mara, Pan is an epic 3D fantasy that’s family-friendly. Opens on 24th July in the UK

Auermann © Estate of Helmut Newton / Maconochie Photography

EXHIBITION Shoes: Pleasure and Pain

ZEITGEIST

DANCE Ballet Folklórico de México de Amalia Hernández

Barbara Hepworth’s Photo-collage with Helicoids in Sphere in the Garden of Redleaf, Penshurst, 1939

This dance troupe from Mexico recreates virtually the entire history of its mother country in a dazzling display of colour and syncopated movement. Under the aegis of director Salvador López – whose grandmother, dancer and choreographer Amalia Hernández, founded the company in 1952 – the programme blends Mexico’s rich traditions, bringing together modern dance and older folk forms that hark back to Aztec culture. The costumes alone are a feast for the eyes. 22nd to 25th July at the London Coliseum Ballet Folklórico de México de Amalia Hernández

EXHIBITION Barbara Hepworth: Sculpture for a Modern World

THEATRE

ed Lion

It may be small-time compared with the Premier League, but the ambitions of the players on a local semi-professional team are every bit as big as those of their idols, in the hotly awaited new play from Patrick Marber. When a brilliantly talented young player arrives, the club’s dreams of glory are fired up – but so, too, are petty jealousies among his teammates. Marber applies his merciless wit to the game that arouses such passion, and in so doing exposes a deluded society motivated by greed. From 3rd June at the National Theatre

She is one of 20th-century Britain’s greatest artists. But, incredibly, the last major exhibition of Barbara Hepworth’s work was mounted in London in 1968 – seven years before her death. That lapse is at last being corrected in this retrospective, which features more than 70 of her works. Along with the monumental abstract bronzes and woodcarvings for which she became famous are examples of her rarely seen experimental pieces, such as photograms (including a self-portrait from the ’30s) and photographic collages. From 24th June to 25th October at Tate Britain

Josef K’s 30th birthday should be a happy occasion. But with a knock at the door, everything changes. Two men have come to arrest him – yet no one will say what crime he has committed. So begins the Kafka novel, which has now been adapted by Nick Gill into a black comedy. Rory Kinnear takes the lead role as a man subjected to an ordeal from which there is seemingly no escape. From 19th June to 8th August at the Young Vic

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Rory Kinnear in The Trial

Kinnear David Sandison

THEATRE The Trial

I N T E RV I E W

MAIDEN VOYAGE

Hollywood has already come calling, and Shakespeare is up next. Joanna Vanderham has talent, will travel

Credits TK Images

BY DEPUTY F

Milly skirt £950 and top from a selection; Paul Andrew shoes from a selection

Ever wondered what an actress says when a wannabe suitor is chatting her up and happens to ask what she does for a living? Joanna Vanderham, the 23-year-old Scot who is turning heads with her appearances on both the big and small screen, has a canny answer. “I tell people I’m an air stewardess,” she laughs, while tucking into a piece of ginger cake after today’s shoot. “I say I’m still in training, so I don’t have to know too much about it. If they ask where I fly to, I just talk about flights I’ve already taken. It saves loads of hassle.” For someone who is only 10 jobs into her acting career, Vanderham has done a lot of flying. Her first role was in Martina Cole’s The Runaway, which was filmed in South Africa. “It was my first ‘proper’ acting experience and I was really bad at staying in touch with the ‘real world’,” she says. “You enter this bubble and the show is all you talk about; at first it’s all you have in common with everyone else on set. It’s easy for filming to become quite insular, and you feel it’s the only thing that matters. I basically lost touch with my family, my friends, everything, because I was so focused. When we had the wrap party, I couldn’t stop crying because it was over. I had this impression that I was never going to work again.” She didn’t have to fret. In hardly any time, she was cast as the lead, no less, in the BBC’s Victorian department-store drama The Paradise. Straight after that, she was jetting off to LA to film What Maisie Knew opposite Hollywood icon Julianne Moore and British actor-comedian Steve Coogan. “When Julianne and I did all of our scenes together, I realised why she’s such an incredible actress,” Vanderham says. “The energy and spontaneity she has is incredible. Watching that happen in front of me was a dream come true.” Coogan, meanwhile, took the film-set fresher under his wing. “He accompanied me for my first-ever Japanese meal and taught me how to eat sushi. He showed me how to hold my chopsticks. I’d never had it before. It’s not so big in Scotland.” The third of four children, she grew up in rural Scone in Perthshire. “I had a lovely upbringing,” she says. “I’m only a year-and-a-half younger than my brother and I have an older and younger sister. We’re all really close. X HAR RODS M AGAZINE

We have a family thread on iMessage where we send each other stupid things. Yesterday, one of my sisters realised that if she stared at one of her fingers really closely, only one of her eyes would move so, last night, we were all sending pictures of ourselves staring at our fingers! I’m going to get them blown up and printed off and have them merged as our family portrait.” Hers is a family of academics; her mother, brother and sister are all doctors. “My mum is my hero and we all look up to her very much. She’s a professor of cardiovascular research and she’s really, really good at it,” she says. “And that’s been our upbringing; being with a parent who is incredibly brilliant and passionate about what they do.” Vanderham’s desire to be an actress was certainly breaking from family form; her mother rarely watches television at all. “I said to her once, ‘Mum, I’m working with Jim Broadbent!’ And she said, ‘Right. Very good.’

ck to. I’ll probably have a flatmate, for the company, because I can get a bit reclusive. I thought I was quite a social person but if people don’t make me go out, then I probably won’t.” When she does hit the town, though, she gets into the spirit of things. Vanderham is fond of east London because it just happens to be densely populated by cool bars and clubs. “Usually, a night out begins with dinner. I’ll say, ‘I’m just going to have the one glass of wine,’ and then I’ll still be having a glass at 3.30 in the morning.” She “goes clubbing enough for a woman of my age to stay sane”, although she’s trying to convince me that, tonight, she’s out simply for a quiet dinner with a few girlfriends. “And there will only be one glass of wine involved – I promise!” Still, it’s a balmy Friday evening, her hair is styled after today’s shoot, and her make-up is perfect. She looks amazing. You kind of hope she does end up making a night of it – just pity the guy who asks her what line of work she’s in. HMN The RSC production of Othello opens at the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, Stratford-upon-Avon, on 4th June. The Go-Between will air on BBC One this summer AWAKE gown £1,250

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Niki Browes is associate editor of InStyle magazine

I N T E RV I E W

“Othello will be the longest run I have ever done, at the biggest theatre, but I’m more excited than scared. I can’t wait to get on with it”

Prada top £1,095 Hair BEN COOKE at Frank Agency Make-up CAROLINE BARNES at Frank Agency using Estée Lauder Photographer’s Assistant OLIVER GRIFFIN Available from Designer Studio and Superbrands, First Floor

THE LATEST LOOKS FROM THE INTERNATIONAL CATWALKS

The life AQUATIC

Fashion has its sights set on the high seas this season, as designers make waves with siren-worthy gowns and marine detailing BY

Valentino dress ÂŁ6,525

HAR RODS M AGAZINE

H A R RODS M AGA ZINE

cC tney Stell

Alex Monroe anchor necklace £126

ey London

Temperley London dress £2,199

Available from Designer Accessories, Lower Ground Floor; The Fine Jewellery Room and Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; Eveningwear and International Designer, First Floor and harrods.com

Elie Saab dress £5,250

Elie Saab top £725 and trousers £2,050

Models backstage Jason Lloyd-Evans

Alex Monroe Signet ring £180 and Baby Ship’s Wheel ring £150

Temperley London dress £2,399

Elie S b

V lentino 42

Christopher Kane jacket £1,999

Alex Monroe Small Swooping Swallow necklace £99

Stella McCartney sweatshirt £999

jumpsuits appeared to have been worn away by salt spray, and empire-line gowns with iridescent embellishments evoked the ebb and flow of the tides. For those who only want to dip a proverbial toe in the water, there are plenty of pieces with just a suggestion of the trend. It’s only on second glance that you realise there’s something of the sea about the delicate sundresses at Stella McCartney – which splice together floral, coral and koi carp prints – while the rope motif dresses and jackets at Christopher Kane have an undercurrent of Riviera style. Ready-to-wear designers aren’t alone in riffing on nautical references. Jeweller Alex Monroe’s latest collection features designs with real depth. “At first I wanted to do something fun and eccentric inspired by the British seaside,” he explains. “But when I visited the National Maritime Museum I became fascinated by the traditions of seafaring people.” The pieces have a talismanic quality: a swallow represents a sailor’s safe return, and an anchor is an emblem of good luck. For those who want to push the boat out, Theo Fennell’s 64-carat cabochon aquamarine Hermitage ring, engraved with sea life and opening to reveal a ruby-studded crab, has a sunken-treasure feel. There’s no sense going against the tide if you want to make a splash this season. HMN

Valentino dress £3,915

Theo Fennell Hermitage ring £25,000

Valentino dress £13,920

Stella McCartney dress £2,199

ipping into the ocean for inspiration can be a double-edged sword for designers. For every peacoat, or pristine pair of sailor-style flares, there are floods of deckchair-esque dresses and navy blazers with naff gold buttons. Yet instead of focusing on nautical clichés, the new collections are awash with thoroughly modern maritime-inspired designs. Alice Temperley took a swim in uncharted waters when she tempered her trademark sweetness with a tomboyish attitude. Styled in mirrored shades and sneakers, her models resembled urban sirens when they strode out in minidresses adorned with stylised rope motifs, and fluid shell-pink gowns with fishing-net embroidery. Valentino’s Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli also had mermaids on their minds this season, and their signature aesthetic – which melds artisanal embellishment with austere silhouettes – perfectly suited the theme. The pair showed gossamer-fine gowns with playful appliqués depicting whimsical sea creatures and crystal pirate ships, pastel coral-print column dresses, and plunging sea-foamgreen dresses with pearlescent sequins that mimicked fish scales. Even their models’ hair (studded with miniature gold starfish, shells and ammonites) was suffused with a sea-nymph spirit. They may have played on every marinelife metaphor possible, but it’s testament to the designers’ powers of restraint that their dresses didn’t descend into a pelagic pastiche. Similarly, their commitment to couturelevel craftsmanship meant their collection steered clear of any Disneyfied Little Mermaid connotations. Beirut-born designer Elie Saab’s collection, titled Dive into the Deep Blue, also embraced all things aquatic. Azure and cerulean dégradé dresses were designed to look as if they’d been submerged in water, openwork-lace

V lentino

FA S H I O N

Henry the G EAT

He’s the French designer who turned Carven into a ﬂourishing fashion house. Now, Guillaume Henry is bringing his brand of je ne sais quoi to Nina Ricci BY

MATTHEW EADES

Guillaume Henry Alasdair McLellan

DEPUTY F

In Nina Ricci’s newly renovated showroom – all chic mahogany benches, vast windows and pale concrete walls – there’s a lot for Guillaume Henry to be excited about. For starters, the Paris-based designer’s first short arthouse film, produced in partnership with the American artist Collier Schorr, is playing on a giant plasma screen in the corner. Then there’s the fact that the place is packed with rails of cocooning hound’s-tooth-check coats, demurely cut sequin-studded pencil skirts and inky-coloured sweaters with fingertip-grazing sleeves, all fresh from the designer’s well received debut catwalk show. But we’ll have to get to that in a bit because, right now, Henry has homed in on something else entirely. The hangers. “They’re men’s coat hangers,” he explains. “I love how they contrast with the clothes. Don’t you think that it becomes more interesting if there’s something a bit surprising in the mix?” Henry’s design style at Carven, the dormant couture house he brought back to life, can be defined by these types of clever juxtapositions: a prim collar on a black body-con dress, for example, or a curvilinear cutout on a Sixties-style coat. The phrase “a bit surprising” could sum up the man himself. Softly spoken with a self-effacing demeanour, the 36-year-old designer does not conduct himself like one of fashion’s most influential figures. Yet, during his reign as creative director of Carven – from 2009 until this January, when he started at Nina Ricci – Henry can claim to have influenced a shift in modern fashion. Not just because he can take credit for the Herculean task of helping to mould a long-forgotten couture label into a multimillion-pound contemporary fashion brand (in 2014, the company’s sales were estimated at around €45m), but because he created a blueprint of how to resonate with post-recession consumers. A case in point: in 2009, the idea of relinquishing a label’s X

Nina Ricci top £1,180 and skirt £1,355 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

IFA NT SH ER IO VN IEW

“I like the idea of doing femininity in a considered, almost purist way… femininity doesn’t have to mean pink” couture licence to reposition a brand using playful designs and diffusion-level pricing was seen as risky. Now it simply feels relevant. Common consensus was that contemporary fashion was somewhat second-rate, but Carven designs are regulars on the red carpet and its diverse clientele includes everyone from Alexa Chung to Inès de la Fressange. Henry’s powers of reinvention are potent, but his real genius lies in creating clothes that, while directional and desirable, never feel disengaged from everyday life. Not that Henry himself would put it that way. “I just like the idea of speaking to a woman who wants a lovely sweater, not necessarily a catwalk piece that everybody would recognise,” he shrugs. “I put as much energy into a T-shirt as I do an evening gown.” Henry’s idea of style is rooted in reality rather than romance or fantasy, which marks him out as something of an anomaly in the world of fashion (intriguingly, he isn’t interested in

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THIS PAGE Nina Ricci dress £2,535; Jimmy Choo shoes £375; OPPOSITE PAGE Nina Ricci top £2,445 and trousers from a selection

trends and doesn’t read reviews). It also makes his recent appointment as creative director of Nina Ricci – a house known for its couture sensibility and unfettered vision of femininity – a rather interesting proposition. At Carven, Henry acknowledges, he was charged with creating an identity for a label that – apart from perfumes and some licensed products – had been largely forgotten. But Nina Ricci has an aesthetic already lodged in the creative consciousness. Not only because of the legacy of the woman herself (who founded the house with her son in 1932 and fast became known for her refined and elegant evening gowns), but also due to the vision of the successors who, following her 1954 retirement, designed for the label. The most recent was ex-Louis Vuitton designer Peter Copping, who, after six years, left the house to helm Oscar de la Renta. His tenure was marked by an adherence to the tenets of the house, and his collections riffed on Nina Ricci’s signature ethereal romance. “The expectation felt kind of scary,” Henry admits. “When I was first appointed people would come up to me and say, ‘So now you’re going to be making pretty dresses with pastel colours and lace…’” Not that Henry took too much notice of other people’s preconceptions. “I always ask myself, is this good enough? And if the answer is yes, then that’s all that matters,” he says. Neither did he spend long ruminating on how best to be reverent. “I didn’t look at the brand’s archive at all,” he says bluntly. “Partly because I didn’t have the time [he had eight weeks to produce the AW15 collection], but also because, for me, it’s about capturing an essence, rather than replicating what came before. I was very aware that there was already a Nina Ricci woman, but my challenge was to make her mine.” That might not seem like a radical stance but, with the ever-present temptation to produce archive-led collections, Henry’s way of working feels like a breath of fresh air. His debut presentation, held inside Paris’ Centre Pompidou, was a move away from the ethereal romance of his predecessor and the coquetry of the Carven girl. Instead, his collection centred on elevated and slightly off-kilter classics: peacoats with boyish proportions, and slouchy sweaters with patchwork cable knit. Silhouettes were clean-cut and decoration subtle. On some pieces, porcelain buttons hand-painted with the dove motif from the label’s L’Air du Temps perfume were the sole embellishment. “I like the idea of doing femininity in a considered, almost purist way,” Henry explains. “I’ve always thought femininity doesn’t have to mean pink. It doesn’t have to mean a frilly blouse on a pretty hanger.” Though he looks perfectly at home at the brand’s Avenue Montaigne HQ, the designer isn’t a born-andbred Parisian. He spent his formative years in a small farming village in eastern France; his mother was a teacher, his father a banker. As a child, he became fascinated by the possibilities of future careers. “I wanted to be an archaeologist, an author, a psychologist, then an artist,” he laughs. “I plagued my parents because I changed my mind every single day.” He discovered his calling at the tender age of 10, when he watched a TV documentary on Paris’ haute-couture collections. “I realised there was a profession out there that was a mix of everything I loved,” he says. His parents supported his passion, and soon he was spending all his spare time sketching and sewing; his mother’s towels were turned into clothes and he even made outfits for his cat. Aged 13, he wrote to Christian X

Credits TK Images

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FA S H I O N

Trend watch: MINI BAGS

It’s time to get neat and petite – leave the portable pooches and weighty tomes at home BY LA

Hair TONY COLLINS at Streeters Make-up JULIE JACOBS at One Represents using YSL Beauté Manicurist CHISATO YAMAMOTO at Terry Manduca Model AMALIE GASSMANN at IMG Photographer’s Assistants WILL CORRY and SAM JACKSON

Lacroix asking for career advice, and for years kept up correspondence with him. At 18, while attending art school in Paris, he met Pierre Hardy, who became another mentor. Hardy persuaded the young designer to enrol on a new postgraduate course at the Institut Français de la Mode, where students were to be taught by industry professionals and, somewhat problematically, in English rather than French. When Henry walked into his first class, he couldn’t speak one word of the language (“It was terrifying,” he laughs). But by the end of the year, he was fluent. After graduation he launched his own fashion label, but dissolved it when he was offered a design role at Givenchy, where he trained in the couture studio, then worked alongside Riccardo Tisci. His peers were perplexed when, after three years, he left to take a design position at Paule Ka – a mid-priced Parisian brand – but they were missing the point. “I wanted to work in a commercial studio as well as a conceptual one,” he explains. “It’s like, if you want to be a doctor, you have to try different disciplines before you can become a specialist.” Both places proved to be useful preparation for his next role at Carven. After six years as creative director, he took on the role at Nina Ricci. “I’m getting older, so it felt like the right moment to start imagining the wardrobe of a woman rather than one of a girl.” While Nina Ricci is a higher-profile house than Carven, Henry says he isn’t driven by ambition. “The thing I adore is the creative process of trying to find the perfect fit between you and the brand you’re working for.” Because of that, he’s circumspect about going it alone. “Designers who have their own names on the door are courageous,” he says. “It’s like having a baby: you have to commit to it 100 per cent, and you can’t switch off for a second.” What Henry really values is being free. “Being free when I’m designing, but also being free in my life,” he says. “I’m really happy with what I do but, in five years, if I’m working in a tiny village close to the sea, I would be happy just the same.” HMN

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Animal lovers have voiced concerns that this season’s mini bags will render thousands of teacup Chihuahuas, shih-tzus and other “handbag dogs” homeless as owners downsize to smaller purses. “There is no dog small enough to fit inside the diminutive Victoria Beckham bag,” says a spokesperson for the Teeny-Tiny Canine Association. “We’ve checked.” Already, campaigners claim, packs of Yorkshire terriers are roaming the manicured streets of Beverly Hills seeking a tote in which to dwell. But, the TTCA says, there is a solution. “For so long, we’ve used our handbags to carry the dogs,” the spokesperson told our reporter. “This season, why can’t the dogs learn to carry the bags?” While dog trainers set to work on this, other bodies are raising their own issues with the small-bag trend. The Royal Society of Three-Dimensionality has warned that women have grown accustomed to many seasons of capacious bags, capable of accommodating any number of items – wallet, phone, tablet, a range of lipsticks, some scones for elevenses and a Cavalier King Charles spaniel among them. Now, these women find themselves baffled by shrunken handbags. The first thing to do, experts say, is to become spatially aware. Place your small black-and-red Balenciaga bag in the centre of an open space and consider its proportions. Place other items alongside the bag and see how it measures up: is it bigger than, say, a magazine? How about a sandwich? The trick is to remember that if an object is bigger than your handbag, it will not be able to fit inside. The complete Shakespeare, for instance, will never go into your mini Burberry Prorsum blue bowling bag, however hard you squish. Despite this inconvenience, there are many reasons to delight in little bags. Mankind has a long history of constructing small-scale versions of things, from aeroplanes to golf courses, via Bekonscot Model Village and those who devote hours to building castles out of matchsticks. This season, the fashion-conscious get to join in, revelling in the fundamental cuteness of a tiny Valentino Rockstud tote or a miniature Mulberry Bayswater, without the dreariness of queueing to board a model train or getting glue on their fingers. Available from Luxury Accessories, Lower Ground Floor and Ground Floor; and harrods.com Laura Barton is a feature writer for The Guardian. She also writes for Q, The Word, Vogue and Red X WATCH Download the Harrods app for tips on miniaturisation

FROM TOP Burberry Prorsum bag £1,650; Victoria Beckham bag £1,275; Balenciaga bag £915; Valentino bag £1,285; Mulberry bag £1,100

Burberry catwalk Rex Features

Nina Ricci sweater £1,125 and trousers from a selection. Available from International Designer, First Floor; and Harrods Shoe Heaven, Fifth Floor

TON

PROMOTION

VIVE la révolution Piaget’s Possession ring has been radically reimagined – but retains its rotating design, key to its 25 years of success

Paris Getty Images

omen realised long ago that life is too short to wait around for someone to buy them diamonds. And one of the earliest fine-jewellery houses to understand this was Piaget, which – a quarter of a century ago – launched the Possession collection, specifically created as a tribute to independent women the world over. “Possession was never designed to be a gift collection,” explains JeanBernard Forot, Piaget’s creative director of jewellery. “In our mind, it was always a collection designed for women, to be bought by women.” Today, thanks to its creator’s innovative attitude combined with exceptional craftsmanship, Possession has become the Swiss fine-jewellery house’s No.1-selling collection. And to mark the line’s 25th anniversary, Piaget has reimagined Possession for a new generation with a selection of elegant pieces including necklaces, bracelets, earrings and, of course, rings. Piaget’s position as a jeweller was established in the 1960s when the house – which started life making watches in the sleepy Swiss village of La Côte-aux-Fées in 1874 – diversified into fine jewellery. Yves Piaget, the great-grandson of founder Georges Édouard Piaget, decided that the family business ought to open its first boutique in Geneva. With this expansion came an expectation of new horizons, so Yves Piaget – confident in his company’s reputation as a master watchmaker – began to forge an identity as a fine jeweller. Still with watches in mind, the house fused its worldfamous ultra-thin movements (such as 1957’s Calibre 9P, which was only 2mm thick) with intricate jewelleryinspired design. Through this, Piaget’s famous cuff was born, with some versions bearing a watch face and others simply designed as bracelets. These pieces caught the attention of celebrities including Ursula Andress and Gina Lollobrigida, and before long Piaget entered its “golden age”, developing a reputation as jeweller to the jet set. Throughout the 1960s and ’70s, the House of Piaget was busy designing pieces for clients living in Gstaad and St Moritz, and on the French Riviera, so its jewellery evolved into trend-led, colourful, modern pieces. The focus was still on bracelets and necklaces; as Forot explains: “They [the Piaget family] loved to have the option of adding a timepiece to the designs to make the strong distinction that, although Piaget was now a jeweller, it had the expertise to add a watch at any moment.” The result was a wide array of cuffs and sautoirs – long, versatile necklaces – which offered the option of a watch face within the design. Until the late 1980s, Piaget continued to specialise in high-end lines and exclusive creations, all the result of precision-engineered watchmaking adapted to jewellery design and craftsmanship. By the early 1990s, however, the house had decided that the jewellery division was established enough for the company to take a leap of faith, and launched its first contemporary international collection, Possession. Twenty-five years on, it’s clear that Piaget’s faith was more than justified, with Possession proving a huge success. This is due in part to the collection’s central piece, the dual-banded Possession ring, whose secret lies in a static band that is overlaid by another that rotates. No other fine-jewellery piece works on the same principle, and the ring’s versatile design has been

THIS PAGE, FROM TOP

Piaget Possession bracelet £11,700 and necklace £1,500, a sketch of the Possession ring, Possession necklace £4,500 and earrings £2,030; OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM TOP Piaget Possession rings £1,820, £4,100 and £4,200

instrumental in the collection’s impact. It comes in a number of options, ranging from a single diamond to a central diamond flanked by rows of pavé diamonds, and every stone adheres to the five-Cs requirements: cut, clarity, carat, colour and certification. Whatever the finish, however, the essence of the ring remains the same. “It’s about pleasure,” says Forot. “The idea behind the Possession ring has always been that each turn of the band brings a new energy to the wearer – it enables them to fulfil their dreams; it empowers them.” Now, to celebrate the quarter-century anniversary, Piaget has completely redesigned the Possession collection. Although there have been what Forot calls “evolutions”, never before have the pieces been so radically reimagined. The new designs come in pink gold (a first for Possession) and have been streamlined for what Forot describes as a more “worldwide” sensibility; gone is the big, bold silhouette in favour of something with a more subtle line – modern, yet delicate and elegant. This, of course, also means that the pieces lend themselves to being layered and stacked, making it far easier to create impressive combinations of rings, necklaces and bracelets. For that, Monsieur Forot, merci beaucoup. Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

NEWS

An inte vie

Finding PATTERNS

DOROTHEE SCHUMACHER by Lindsay Macpherson

Some things are simply too good to leave in the past; Carolina Herrera’s whimsical prints are a case in point. Each season the brand reissues a selection of its best-loved motifs and reimagines them in the label’s signature silhouettes: think ’50s-style skirts and summery dresses. The vintage patterns from the Venezuelan-American designer’s in-house archive look as fresh as ever, and include motifs such as parasols, cabbage roses and monochrome violets. From left Shirt £360, skirt £599 and dress £925. Available from International Designer, First Floor

Düsseldorf-based designer Dorothee Schumacher launched her debut collection in 1989. Today, her company has a presence in 45 countries and her clothes – which combine tailoring-inspired cuts and feminine fabrics – are worn by celebrities including Gwyneth Paltrow and Milla Jovovich. She talks to Harrods Magazine about celebrating women.

Art attack

Forget the gallery wall – sometimes, original works by emerging artists are best worn out and about. In a move sure to delight competitive collectors, Karen Millen’s in-house atelier has collaborated with Graduate Fashion Week’s mentorship programme to make the symbiosis of art and fashion its focus for SS15. Graduates’ bold, bright paintings and designs have been rendered on five fabrics to produce an exclusive collection of signature pieces, including biker jackets, pleated maxiskirts and studded tees, all made in the label’s Shoreditch headquarters. Emblazoned with freehand drawings, digital watercolours and photographic cityscapes, the eyecatching results are sound investments in style. Biker jacket £999. Available from Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor

PEARL TALK Mikimoto possesses an eye for perfection, having been cultivating lustrous pearls since 1893. To coincide with Pearl Month in-store, the jewellery house has been inspired by the romance of the sea’s gem (which, according to folklore, is the secret to marital bliss), adding a cocktail ring and earrings to its Classic Elegance Collection. The earrings showcase rare, oversized white South Sea cultured pearls, complemented by 3.43ct drop- and brilliant-cut diamonds set in platinum. Earrings, price on request. Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

ith

“In the 1980s, women in business were wearing masculine suits and shoulder pads. It was more than just power dressing; it felt as if they were trying to emulate men to fit in. I wanted to counterbalance and, at the same time, complement that androgynous look. So my first collection was a series of feminine blouses that could be worn with blazers. I see femininity as a strength and all my collections reflect that. I’m inspired by women who express themselves and who experiment with fashion. Our AW15 collection is a fusion of fashion ideas: a collage of materials, proportions, colours and style details. My aim is the same every season: to provide wardrobe solutions for busy women. I’ve always wanted to design pieces that are capable of carrying women through FROM TOP Dorothee every situation, whether Schumacher dress it’s a formal event or a £550 and blouse board meeting. Imposing £370. Available from a complex silhouette just Designer Studio, because it’s fashionable is First Floor; and restrictive. Every item of harrods.com clothing should empower a woman. Fashion can no longer dictate what’s right and what’s wrong or what to wear when. That’s one of the main changes I’ve seen in the past 26 years. Today’s customer knows what she wants and when she wants it. Another major shift is the speed at which everything in the fashion industry moves now; customers want to see new products all the time. I never try to define the Dorothee Schumacher woman. I’d rather encourage women to be true to themselves. It’s not about a particular age or type of beauty.”

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FA S H I O N Lazul swimsuit £160

Wildfox sunglasses from £120 Caffé Swimwear tote £330

Ashiana necklace £69.95

Hervé Léger bikini top £305 and bikini bottoms £260

Mara Hoffman cover-up £250

Chanel Le Vernis Nail Colour £18

Caffé Swimwear tote £399

Lazul swimsuit £190; Monica Vinader cuff £280

Lanvin sandals £410

SWIM club Ocean hues and high-octane brights bring a new energy to seaside essentials

Ted Baker tote £149

Ashiana bracelets £39.95 each

CHOICE

Vivid colours and ethnic detailing elevate the humble kaftan to new heights.

Christopher Kane shorts £355 La Perla towel £173

*EDITOR’S

Seafolly kaftan £54.95

The Christopher Kane for NARS collection lip gloss £19

Rag & Bone shorts £185

Available from Designer Accessories, Lower Ground Floor; The Colour and Cosmetics Halls, and Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; Swim & Sunglasses, First Floor; Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor; Harrods Shoe Heaven and Urban Retreat, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com

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Stylist Olivia Halsall; model photographer Anders Overgaard

Sophia Webster sandals £205

PROV ENA NCE

DANCE partners It’s curtain-up for Pas de Deux, Boodles’ evocative new collection inspired by The Royal Ballet

The oyal Ballet and film-strip stills Charlie Dailey

BY J

Watching performances of two contemporary ballets, Chroma and Connectome, proved pivotal when Rebecca Hawkins, head of design at Boodles, was deciding how to approach the brand’s first jewellery collaboration with The Royal Ballet. Both productions – the former choreographed by Wayne McGregor and the latter by Alastair Marriott – are breathtaking, dynamic pieces that reveal the physicality, energy, coordination, focus and sheer perfection of the dancers of The Royal Ballet. “There was so much at the Opera House for me to take in and enjoy, from the archives to the costumes and sets, but these two ballets are all about the dancers and the purity of how they move and connect with each other,” Hawkins says. “I wanted to create

ABOVE RIGHT Royal Ballet first soloist Yuhui Choe and principal Nehemiah Kish in rehearsal; ABOVE LEFT Boodles Pas de Deux platinum, diamond and morganite necklace £50,000; ABOVE FAR LEFT (from top) ballet essentials; a Boodles piece takes shape; Royal Ballet principal Steven McRae

something that celebrated the essence of dance itself.” As an art student, Hawkins used to queue at the venue for last-minute tickets. Being given access to the dancers in class and rehearsal was therefore a dream opportunity. “It was very special to go behind the scenes and absorb the whole feel of the place,” she says. Hawkins reveals it was chatting with the associate director of The Royal Ballet, Jeanetta Laurence OBE, that crystallised for her the most important elements of dance to capture in the pieces. “Jeanetta talked about what it takes to perform on such a stage and what makes an amazing partnership. She spoke not just of the classical technique – for instance, the alignment, strength and balance required – but also of how important it is for dancers to be in mental harmony. X HAR RODS M AGAZINE

PROV ENA NCE

And we conversed about the emotional aspects, too – the ability to inhabit a performance. To transcend the choreography to magic up an atmosphere that transports the audience. “That’s where the idea began to form of the pas de deux as a motif – paying tribute to the duality of the physical and emotional aspects of the art, and of the two dancers creating shapes together, mirroring each other and telling a story.” The result is a collection of more than 30 pieces of fine jewellery, from diamond studs and pendants to statement collars, cuffs and cocktail rings. Abstract interpretations of the shapes and movement of dancers (forget stereotypical balletic associations) feature stones such as rare pink diamonds and cuts including the “kite” and Ashoka, as well as unexpected materials such as rock crystal, morganite and Paraiba tourmalines. Hawkins started by sketching the shapes dancers made, playing with the empty, negative spaces as well as the positive. She noticed that their positions often suggested the points of a triangle. “I was particularly taken by a scene in Connectome when there were lots of dancers on stage, all performing grands jetés – magnificent outstretched leaps. Some of the simpler pieces in the collection pick up on things like that extension.” She also included the shape of a foot en pointe to create a sense

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FROM TOP Boodles head designer Rebecca Hawkins; Boodles Pas de Deux platinum and Ashoka diamond studs £18,000

of motion-capture photography, where you might see the ghost image of the foot repeated. “I used this to suggest a flow of steps dancing across a bracelet,” she says. “When I began working with the designs, I was almost thinking in two halves. The more high-design pieces reflect the emotional side to a greater degree than the simpler pieces, which I felt should be more about alignment and balance. For instance, there are studs that are just two stones, balanced one on top of the other.” The collection has gone down well with such Royal Ballet artists as principal dancer Marianela Nuñez and soloist Francesca Hayward. “When we organised a photoshoot, the more we told them about the inspiration, the more amazed and happy they became that all this had emanated from their movements,” Hawkins says. The collection is surprisingly versatile, too. The individual pieces complement each other when worn together (there’s also an exceptional suite), but are strong enough to be worn alone. What’s more, while they look superb in a more formal context, many also work casually. What could be easier to wear than the studs, with their minimalist elegance? And they’re surely made all the more delightful by the background story. HMN Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

The oyal Ballet, portrait and film-strip stills Charlie Dailey

LEFT Royal Ballet principal Marianela Nuñez wears Boodles Pas de Deux platinum and kite diamond earrings £21,500, platinum and diamond cuff, price on request, and platinum and diamond ring £37,500; ABOVE, FROM TOP Early sketches in progress; Boodles Pas de Deux platinum and diamond cuff, price on request; inside The Royal Ballet; RIGHT, FROM TOP Boodles Pas de Deux platinum and diamond earrings £27,500, platinum and Ashoka diamond necklace, price on request, and platinum and Ashoka diamond ring £26,500

NEWS

In perfect HA MONY

To mark its 260th anniversary, Swiss watchmaker Vacheron Constantin has unveiled the first seven limitededition models of its Harmony collection. Elegant reinterpretations of its 1928 chronograph, the timepieces are driven by a new calibre developed in-house, while the case is pink gold and engraved with the words “260th anniversary” on the back. Harmony Chronograph £53,450. Available from The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor

A CUT ABOVE Business travel can be trying for many reasons, but it’s particularly frustrating when you leave home in pristine shape, only to touch down crumpled and creased. Paul Smith aims to remedy this with its A Suit To Travel In. Cut from crease-resistant wool, the suit has a tailored yet relaxed style that provides greater freedom of movement. To prove the point, Smith asked models to showcase the garments while performing gymnastic feats; hopefully, the next flight won’t be quite as turbulent. Suit £599. Available from Men’s Collections, Lower Ground Floor

New takes on tradition make for less legwork in finding the perfect fit and finish BY LUKE LEITCH

It was Levi Strauss’ 1853 introduction of riveted denim workwear for Gold Rush miners – and later cowboys – that established the now ubiquitous thick cotton twill as part of the iconography of America. But it wasn’t until the 1950s, when blue jeans became synonymous with American youth culture, that they turned into a worldwide phenomenon. Here are five of the finest new-season styles. 1. For the rebel Cut to hug your legs without vacuum-packing them, the Citizens of Humanity Bowery Pure Slim jeans are a fine example of the artfully precise detail that denim specialists can achieve. The LA-based brand uses exclusive fabric blends to achieve the best fit, while subtle washes give a vintage patina. 2. For the man who wants everything Already a prime mover in the premium jeans category, 7 For All Mankind is aiming even higher, with its Luxe Performance denim engineered to retain its shape. The fabric is washed to look like raw denim and is worn in by just the right amount. But that tough purist finish belies the brushed, cashmere-feel lining. 3. For the individualist Italian brand Jacob Cohen makes its exclusive, lovingly finished selvage jeans from top-of-the-line Japanese Kurabo denim. This particular style is a strictly limited edition – so you know that even in a sea of denim, hardly anyone else is wearing a pair quite like yours. 4. For the fashion-forward pragmatist With sportswear becoming increasingly influential on the street, many denim specialists – chief among them Diesel – are incorporating athletic-inspired touches into their workwear classics. The Diesel Joggjeans have a drawstring waist as well as belt loops. Plus, these have a great dark-indigo wash. 5. For the performance-minded The grey-wash Rocco Active jeans by True Religion are a prime example of how modern denim keeps the look of classic jeans while innovating for greater comfort. Slim cut, with a gentle taper, they combine a touch of elastane with fleece stitching, allowing the jeans to flex FROM TOP AllSaints but with no compromise on looks. Available from Men’s Denim Gallery and Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s Designer Casuals, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com Luke Leitch has written about fashion for Vogue, Esquire, Vanity Fair, The Times and The Daily Telegraph X WATCH Download the Harrods app for a more detailed denim debrief

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jacket from £358 and T-shirt £30, Citizens of Humanity jeans £300; Zadig & Voltaire jacket £380, 7 For All Mankind T-shirt £84.95 and jeans from £200; The Kooples sweater £165, Jacob Cohen jeans £475; Zadig & Voltaire jacket £255, Façonnable polo shirt £140, Diesel jeans £220; Sandro jacket £420 and T-shirt £80, True Religion jeans £215

Photographer Daniel Burdett; stylist Becky Branch

Summer’s here and the living is easy for Valentino, with the brand following a distinctly soft and loose vibe this season. Formal and sporty garments combine in “a search for weightless solidity”. Think urban staples – slouchy sweatshirts and oversized T-shirts – combined with intricate handdrawn illustrations. Materials and colours tap into a natural theme, and jersey fabrics are rendered in neutral tones for maximum organic effect. T-shirt £440 and sweatshirt £699. Available from Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor

Style rules: Denim

Credits TK Images

Easy does it

FA S H I O N

Gieves & Hawkes shirt £165

Borsalino hat £470

Acqua di Parma iPad case £288

Alexander McQueen sweater £585; Berluti trousers £400 Globe-Trotter trunk £1,235

Tomas Maier sweater £825

Haider Ackermann T-shirt £325

Sisley Sunleÿa Age Minimizing Global Sun Care 50ml, £142

Church’s shoes from a selection

Canali trousers £199

Kurt Geiger sandals £135

White HOT A pale colour palette adds an understated

Aspinal of London washbag £150

sophistication to clean-cut staples

*EDITOR’S CHOICE

Relaxed classics are Giorgio Armani’s raison d’être. This cream jacket is softly tailored with a dash of sprezzatura. Giorgio Armani jacket £925

Prada sunglasses £230

Available from Men’s Accessories, Men’s International Gallery and The Gentleman’s Lounge, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s Luxury Collections, The Beauty Apothecary and The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor; Gifts & Stationery and Travel Goods & Luggage, Second Floor; Men’s Casual Collections, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com

H A R RODS M AGA ZINE

Stylist Becky Branch; model photographer Anders Overgaard

Frescobol Carioca shorts £135

Balenciaga sweater £475

FA S H I O N

THE SUPERBRANDS HAVE LANDED Out-of-this-world collections. Exclusive pieces. This season, the planet’s most inﬂuential brands are beaming down to a new space ISHI / F

Bottega Veneta coat, bag and shoes, price on request

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FA S H I O N

THIS PAGE

H A R RODS M AGA ZINE

Louis Vuitton coat £2,550, dress £3,160, bag £1,810, scarf from a selection and boots £820; OPPOSITE PAGE Dior coat £3,000, rings from £430 and boots £1,300

FA S H I O N

THIS PAGE Dolce & Gabbana dress ÂŁ1,850 and shoes from a selection; OPPOSITE PAGE Alexander McQueen dress and shoes from a selection HAR RODS M AGAZINE

FA S H I O N

THIS PAGE, LEFT

Fendi dress £1,840, bag £1,520 and boots £1,100; RIGHT Fendi dress £1,470, bag £1,280 and boots £1,100; OPPOSITE PAGE Ralph & Russo dress £46,920; Christian Louboutin shoes £425

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THIS PAGE

Ralph Lauren Collection gown £7,490; OPPOSITE PAGE Balmain jacket and belt from a selection, and trousers £1,120

Hair PAUL DONOVAN at CLM using Acqua di Parma; Make-up JO FROST at CLM using SK-II; Nails ZARRA CELIK at LMC Worldwide using Chanel SS15; Model NOVA MALANOVA at Select; Junior Fashion Assistant OLIVIA HALSALL; Photographer’s Assistants ANDY MOORES and TOM ORTIZ; Digital Operators BEN CATCHPOLE and CLARK FRANKLYN; Lighting Assistant JOSEPH MOLINES Available from Superbrands, First Floor; Harrods Shoe Heaven, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com

X WATCH Download the Harrods app to see the Superbrands landing HAR RODS M AGAZINE

CASTAWAY

Tropical colours and â&#x20AC;&#x2122;70 prints make a splash in traditional one-pieces and textured or crocheted bikinis. Just add water F

FA S H I O N

THIS PAGE Elizabeth Hurley Beach bikini top £69.95 and bikini bottom £69.95; OPPOSITE PAGE Emilio Pucci bikini £305 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

THIS PAGE Heidi Klein bikini top £99.95 and bikini bottom £99.95; Ashiana wrap bracelet £62.95; Marc Jacobs sunglasses £119; OPPOSITE PAGE Caffé Swimwear swimsuit £260; Ashiana wrap bracelet £62.95

FA S H I O N

THIS PAGE Lazul swimsuit £185; Monica Vinader cuff £280; OPPOSITE PAGE Lazul swimsuit £170

Hair and make-up JAMES MCMAHON using MAC and Bumble and Bumble Model BARBARA DI CREDDO at IMG Models Junior Fashion Assistant OLIVIA HALSALL Digital Operator TERTIUS BUNE Photographer’s Assistants DAVID JAFFE and ALEX ROJAS Available from Designer Accessories, Lower Ground Floor; Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; Swim & Sunglasses, First Floor; and harrods.com X WATCH Download the Harrods app and our July digital issue to see more swimwear that makes waves HAR RODS M AGAZINE

FA S H I O N

ROCK THE BOAT

It’s all plain sailing in menswear this season, with classic stripes, textured knits and crisp cottons, perfect for a shipshape summer wardrobe. Take the rough with the smooth F

Stone Island jacket £625; Façonnable sweater £599; Gieves & Hawkes shorts £129 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

FA S H I O N

THIS PAGE Alexander McQueen sweater £385; Frescobol Carioca shorts £135; OPPOSITE PAGE Polo Ralph Lauren T-shirt £255; Alexander McQueen trousers £445

H A R RODS M AGA ZINE

FA S H I O N

THIS PAGE Dior Homme raincoat

£2,350 and trousers £470; Kenzo sweater £200; OPPOSITE PAGE Barbour jacket £220; APC T-shirt £74.95; Paul Smith shorts from a selection; Ray-Ban sunglasses £125 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

FA S H I O N

THIS PAGE Kenzo shorts from a selection; OPPOSITE PAGE Acne Studios sweater £300

Available from Men’s Collections, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s Luxury Collections, Ground Floor; Men’s Casuals, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com Grooming JAMES MCMAHON using Clarins Men and Bumble and Bumble Model RYAN HEAVYSIDE at Select Junior Fashion Assistant OLIVIA HALSALL Photographer’s Assistants DAVID JAFFE and ALEX ROJAS Digital Operator TERTIUS BUNE X WATCH Download the Harrods app and our July digital issue to learn the ropes on summer style HAR RODS M AGAZINE

M U S T- H AV E

SKINCARE / COSMETICS / FRAGRANCE

Guiding LIGHT

Protect and survive with supersmart suncare and skin-soothing balms that put the rest in the shade F

Body conscious

Pack your beach bag with a new breed of suncare that’s more switched-on in the caring stakes than ever before. First up? Shiseido. In its new Expert Sun Aging Protection Lotion SPF 30, the water-resistant UV protection is boosted by water. Aesop’s Protective Body Lotion SPF 50 leaves skin looking surprisingly matte, while Sisley’s Super Soin Solaire Milky Body Mist SPF 30 has an anti-free-radical action. And for a decadently rich cream, Dior Bronze Protection Solaire SPF 30 offers skin-loving, anti-ageing ingredients. OYE swimsuit £375

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Face up

As facial skin is fine and can be sensitive, it’s important to use specific formulations. Evidens de Beauté’s La Crème Solaire Éclat SPF 25 is designed for daily use with brightening and anti-oxidant benefits, while Clarins’ UV Plus Anti-Pollution Day Screen SPF 50 hydrates and soothes as it protects. For longlasting protection, Suqqu Face Protector Bright Up SPF 50 is water- and sweat-resistant, and Elizabeth Arden’s Prevage Triple Defense SPF 50 contains a powerful anti-oxidant and also helps protect against infrared-A rays. Eres swimsuit £370

Light relief Not only does aftersun help to soothe and cool, it’s also key in replacing lost moisture. Consider Clinique’s After Sun Rescue Balm with Aloe for oil-free calming, or La Prairie Soothing After Sun Mist – a refreshing spray with comforting botanicals. Lancôme Soleil Bronzer Hydrating AfterSun Milk softens skin with a trio of oils, and to prolong your summer glow, Clarins After Sun Moisturizer has a selftanning version with moisturereplenishing watermelon extract. La Perla swimsuit £624

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Good to glow When the sun’s gone down, help boost your glow while hydrating your skin with Guerlain’s Terracotta Sun Serum, which helps prolong your tan. For buildable faux colour, Crème de la Mer has harnessed its antiageing benefits in an all-in-one Face and Body Gradual Tan. Or, for immediate impact, NARS’ Body Glow captures glistening particles in gardenia-infused coconut oil. Eres swimsuit £375

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Grooming JAMES McMAHON using MAC and Bumble and Bumble Model GRACE ELIZABETH at Next Models Junior Fashion Assistant OLIVIA HALSALL Digital Operator TERTIUS BUNE Photographer’s Assistants DAVID JAFFE and ALEX ROJAS Available from The Beauty Apothecary and The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor; Swim & Sunglasses, First Floor; Urban Retreat, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com

BE AU T Y

BODY CONSCIOUS

FACE UP

FROM LEFT Shiseido Expert Sun Aging Protection Lotion SPF 30, 150ml, £29; Dior Bronze Protection Solaire SPF 30, 50ml £24.50; Aesop Protective Body Lotion SPF 50, 150ml, £27; Sisley Super Soin Solaire Milky Body Mist SPF 30, 150ml, £83

FROM LEFT Suqqu Face Protector Bright Up SPF 50, 30ml, £40; Elizabeth Arden Prevage Triple Defense SPF 50, 50ml, £65; Clarins UV Plus Anti-Pollution Day Screen SPF 50, 200ml, £21; Evidens de Beauté La Crème Solaire Éclat SPF 25, 30ml, £120

LIGHT RELIEF

GOOD TO GLOW

FROM LEFT La Prairie Soothing After Sun Mist 150ml, £64; Clinique After Sun

FROM LEFT Guerlain Terracotta Sun Serum 26ml, £43; NARS Body Glow

Rescue Balm with Aloe 150ml, £20; Clarins After Sun Moisturizer 200ml £21; Lancôme Soleil Bronzer Hydrating After-Sun Milk 200ml, £24.50

120ml, £45; Crème de la Mer The Face and Body Gradual Tan 200ml, £65

Available from The Beauty Apothecary and The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor; Urban Retreat, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com

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Crème de la Mer drops and Face Up cream Alamy

Sunshine essentials

NEWS

Nature’s remedy Founded by mother-daughter duo Dr Zarifa Hamzayeva and Jamila Askarova, Gazelli Triple Youth skincare is based on the healing powers of a natural oil found only in Azerbaijan. The Illuminating Perfecting Skin Polish is designed to clear pores and minimise imperfections, while Hydra-Radiance Face Mist hydrates and tones. The range also helps to improve skin’s ability to regenerate itself and absorb nutrients. Face Mist 100ml, £42. Available from Urban Retreat, Fifth Floor

EYE WONDE Looking for a new mascara? Here are three – all tried, tested and approved 1. For natural-looking length, try PhytoMascara Ultra-Stretch from Sisley. Thanks to a combination of curling and setting polymers, the mascara glides on easily, then dries quickly to keep lashes in place. Its silhouette brush is great for catching those tiny inner lashes, too. £39 2. Instant impact is easy with Guerlain’s Cils d’Enfer So Volume. It’s a full-throttle mascara with glossy oils for an intense finish. And to keep the look clump-free, the comb-like bristles have been carefully arranged to coat lashes with just the right amount of product from root to tip. £24 3. To keep smudges at bay, Haute & Naughty Waterproof Lash is a savvy mascara from MAC. Its dual-wiper brush allows you to load it on or be ultra-precise, all using the same tear- and weather-resistant product. £19 Available from The Colour and Cosmetics Halls, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

Model Jason Lloyd-Evans

Crème de la CRÈME

Devotees of Crème de la Mer, listen up. The brand has harnessed its anti-ageing Miracle Broth – powered by nutrientrich sea kelp – in a lightweight coverage cream. Available in five shades, The Reparative SkinTint SPF 30 aims to reduce the appearance of fine lines and give skin a healthy glow. What’s more, the formula ensures pigment and UV protection remain on the surface, while only key actives are drawn into the skin. Clever. 40ml, £65. Available from The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor

MISS HEAVEN SCENT

t es s

e ously

I’ve often thought that the business of choosing a new fragrance just as one is about to board a flight to more exotic climes is, as the French might say, folie. Purchase an old favourite perhaps, but – giddy as one may be with a holiday-induced sense of frivolity – a departure lounge is not the place to choose a new scent. So this summer I’ve found an alternative to buying fragrance on the fly: a pre-trip trip to Salon de Parfums. With classics, bespoke creations and rare olfactive finds from the world’s best perfumers – as well as a staff of experts with an almost psychic ability to know what’s right for you – Salon de Parfums is the place to lose your fragrance head. The first scent I’m introduced to is from niche Italian house Xerjoff. Part of its Casamorati collection, which aims to resurrect the craftsmanship of the 19th-century haute parfumerie, Gran Ballo takes its mood from the traditional debutantes’ ball. A romantic, summery bouquet of honeysuckle, gardenia and jasmine is given a sweet quality via a vanilla, amber and caramel base. To counter sweet and innocent, I’m then offered Tom Ford’s fourth addition to the Neroli Portofino fragrance line: Fleur de Portofino. Although it isn’t overtly seductive in the way that Ford’s fragrances often are, this ode to FROM TOP Xerjoff Gran Mediterranean flora is, Ballo 100ml, £240; Tom Ford Fleur de Portofino somehow, all tanned 50ml, £145; By Kilian limbs and azure Attache-Moi earrings waters. The accord has scented with Love, Don’t piques of sensuality Be Shy £195. Available through honey and from The Perfumery Hall, Ground Floor; Salon de skin-like musky notes combined with Parfums, Sixth Floor; and harrods.com mellow jasmine, mimosa and orange blossom. My final fragrance stop would suit anyone seeking folie; we dispense with the bottle altogether for By Kilian’s new collection of scented jewellery, AttacheMoi. The range comes in five colours, and each colour is infused with a different fragrance. The orange jewellery is not only a perfect burst of summer colour; it’s also scented with Love, Don’t Be Shy – a hot and hazy floral accord of neroli, honeysuckle, orange blossom and rose. – By Fleur Fruzza HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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HIGH FIVE

Editor Jan Masters reveals her top ﬁve beauty treats for June and July

When there’s simply no time to put your beauty pampering needs into professional hands, Clinique’s new Turnaround Revitalizing Instant Facial is a saviour. It’s a fiveminute balmy cream mask containing chestnut extract to stimulate cell renewal. Combined with natural exfoliating particles to lift dead cells, it helps reveal skin’s softer side. 75ml, £35

Inspired by saffron, a spice dear to the heart of Byredo’s creative director Ben Gorham, who grew to love it during his boyhood in India, Black Saffron eau de parfum is sublime. Powdery petals of black violet and rose cascade onto precious saffron, which weaves through refreshing juniper berries and sharp pomelo. At the base, a bittersweet duet of raspberry and vetiver fuses to leave a vibrant trail on the skin. It’s totally transporting. 100ml, £130

Serums are a great way to boost hydration levels, but if you’re using them in combination with other products, their textures have to be just right. This is why I love Sensai’s Cellular Performance Essence – the lightweight fluid quickly absorbs to leave skin feeling plumped and refreshed. There’s also a dose of koishimaru silk to promote the skin’s ability to retain moisture over time. 40ml, £75; exclusive to Harrods

I’m a latecomer to eye creams, but now that I can see the difference they make, I’m a real fan. However, I don’t always want to apply something too rich or thick, so this new find is fantastic. Rose Hydrating Eye Gel Cream from Fresh is a soothing mix of rosewater and cucumber, with hydrators that instantly quench the skin and absorb beautifully. It helps me look wide awake, and is a must when I’m travelling. 15ml, £38. Available from early July; exclusive to Harrods

Available from The Beauty Apothecary and The Colour, Cosmetics and Perfumery Halls, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

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Cream dots Alamy

Is it a super-cream? Is it a light foundation? Crema Nuda is both. And it performs each role beautifully. Called “the perfect hybrid” by Giorgio Armani international make-up artist Linda Cantello, Crema Nuda is a tinted cream that balances hydrating hyaluronic acid with sheer pigments to even up the complexion and subtly blur imperfections. 50ml, £145

EXPERT TOUCH

On the SS15 catwalk, Chanel juxtaposed nearly natural beauty with 1970s colour. Make-up maestro Mary Greenwell translates the trends BY

HYPERREAL STEP 1: Stick with it “Hydrate with serum, eye cream and lip balm, followed by Perfection Lumière foundation for naked-looking skin with a translucent quality. Take Chanel’s new Healthy Glow Sheer Colour Stick in No.20, which can be used in a multitude of ways, and sweep it through the hollows of the cheeks and into the eye sockets to give shape and enhance features. Pat into the skin with fingers to blend. Then use the same colour stick on lips for a neutral sheen.” STEP 2: All the gloss “Coat only top lashes with mascara to help elongate the eyes. Then fill in brows using Le Sourcil de Chanel palette. Load your brush with the mid-tone powder and move this back and forth over brows to colour the skin beneath, following their natural shape. Add intensity by mixing a few drops of water with the darker powder to make a paste and brush this through the brow hairs. Give skin a dewy finish by taking the new Gloss Volume – a colourless lip gloss – and tapping it onto the top of the cheekbones, the centre of the lips, and above the Cupid’s bow.”

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Chanel Hydra Beauty Micro Sérum £66, Hydra Beauty Gel Yeux £40, Perfection Lumière foundation SPF10, £36, Correcteur Perfection concealer £27, Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Colour Stick in No.20, £32, Le Crayon Lèvres lip pencil in 34 Natural £17.50, Le Volume de Chanel mascara in Noir £25, Le Sourcil de Chanel eyebrow palette in Brun £43, Gloss Volume £26

BE AU T Y

RETRO REWIND STEP 1: Bronze age “After prepping the skin, lips and eyes, apply Le Blanc de Chanel. This creates a uniform base and helps to keep skin luminous when working with powder. Correct any remaining discoloration with concealer and foundation, followed by a veil of Healthy Glow Sheer Powder in No.10. Now it’s time to bring colour back into play. Starting under the cheekbones, use bronzer to mimic a holiday glow, focusing on areas where the sun would naturally hit the face, and buffing the colour down the neck and over the shoulders and collarbones.” THIS PAGE Chanel

shirt from a selection; OPPOSITE PAGE Chanel necklace from a selection Hair LEIGH KEATES at Premier Make-up MARY GREENWELL at Premier Nails CHISATO YAMAMOTO at Terri Manduca Model SERAFIMA at Select Junior Fashion Assistant OLIVIA HALSALL Photographer’s Assistants ALEX CRADDOCK and ZACH CLAPHAM Available from The Colour and Cosmetics Halls, Ground Floor; Superbrands, First Floor; and harrods.com

STEP 2: True blue “Chanel’s new Les 4 Ombres in Tissé Jazz has everything you need for dramatic sapphire eyes. Start with the mid blue and brush the pigment over the lid and under the lower lashes. Add depth to the sockets with the deeper blue, and highlight the inner corners. Blue can bring out the pinky tone of eyes, so counteract with a silvery liner along the waterline. Use Cils Scintillants in Jazzy Blue on lashes. For even more intensity, load a small shadow brush with the mascara and sweep this along the top lashline, using it like a liquid liner.” Chanel Le Blanc de Chanel illuminating base £33, Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Powder No.10, £39, Les Beiges Healthy Glow Multi-colour in Marinière No.02, £44, Les 4 Ombres eyeshadow in Tissé Jazz £40, Stylo Yeux Waterproof eyeliner in Perle de Lune £19, Cils Scintillants mascara in Jazzy Blue £25, Les Beiges Healthy Glow Hydrating Lip Balm £25, Le Crayon Lèvres lip pencil in 89 Beige Satin £17.50 X WATCH Download the Harrods app for more Chanel make-up looks

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Stawley goats’ cheese £10 per 200g and Tymsboro goats’ cheese £10.95 per 200g; figs £40 per kg; Hillside Oat & Seed Organic Biscuits for Cheese 130g, £4.50; Harrods cheese board £29.95

Domestic bliss

It’s time to look beyond French chèvre. Artisanal British goats’ cheeses such as Stawley and Tymsboro are challenging their Gallic rivals on their own turf BY PAT

ICK MCGUIGAN / PHOTOG FOOD STYLIN

APHE JAN BALDWIN ECIPES OSIE EYNOLDS HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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FOOD

t’s the foodie equivalent of selling coals to Newcastle. British cheese, it seems, is flying off the shelves in Paris’ finest fromageries as the French discover the joys of cheddar and Stilton. It’s enough to make a proud Frenchman choke on his Camembert. And what’s even more remarkable is that this new-found love for “fromage anglais” runs to cheeses first inspired by Continental classics. Chèvre is as French as frogs’ legs, but a new generation of goats’ cheeses from the UK taste so good, they’re giving the originals a run for their money. Dorstone, Tymsboro and Innes Button more than hold their own against French equivalents, but it’s a dainty, soft goats’ cheese called Stawley that is gaining a special place in the hearts of cheese lovers across the Channel, as well as back home in Britain. Made near the village of Stawley in Somerset by Hill Farm Dairy, the wrinkly-rind cheese was originally based on the Burgundian fromage Charolais. It has, though, developed its own character over the years. “It’s categorically our cheese; it’s a Stawley, not a Charolais,” declares co-owner Will Atkinson. “We’ve made lots of subtle changes to the recipe since we first started, so it’s now very much our product. If you tried to make Stawley somewhere else, it wouldn’t taste the same. The flavour is created by the type of goats we have, what they’re fed and the cheesemaking process.” A former lawyer, Atkinson set up the business with his wife Caroline in 2008 after she had worked for some of the UK’s best cheesemongers and trained under pioneering British goats’-cheese producer Mary Holbrook. The farm started with around 25 goats, but today has a 100-strong herd of different breeds whose milk, when blended, yields just the right balance of fat and protein for making cheese. Available from March to December, Stawley changes throughout the season, depending on the weather and what the goats are eating. In June, the cheese is creamy, but still has a delicate freshness. Its zingy lemon flavours and floral finish are due to the goats munching on late-spring grass and dock leaves. The complex flavours from the goats’ diet are fully expressed in the final cheese, because the dairy does not pasteurise its milk. The heat-treating process routinely employed by large factories kills off natural dairy bacteria and flattens out the flavour of cheese, Atkinson says. “If you pasteurise, it doesn’t matter what’s in your milk, because you’re boiling everything out,” he says. “If you don’t pasteurise, you’ve got a more complicated material to work with, but hopefully you’re retaining all those flavours. It all comes back to the milk being of utmost importance. That’s why we raise our own goats. It would be easier and cheaper to buy milk from someone else, but we think it adds to our cheese.” The time and attention that goes into the milk is continued once it arrives at the dairy. Stawley is a prima donna of a cheese that requires gentle handling, patience and perseverance to make. Batches of milk ranging from 100 to 400 litres (depending on how much the goats produce) are, over a 36-hour period, turned into a blancmange-like curd using starter cultures and rennet. This is then painstakingly ladled by hand into small moulds, and the whey is drained for a few more days before the immature cheeses are hand-rolled in sea salt.

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FROM TOP Stawley goats’ cheese £10 per 200g; Carrs English Thread cheese knife £179; Stawley uses different breeds of goat to create the perfect blend of milk

In total, turning milk into a pale young cheese takes the best part of five days and requires constant monitoring of acidity and moisture levels. It’s a far cry from how cheese is made by industrial producers, which process thousands of litres of milk a day on automated lines. The maturing process is equally labour intensive, with the cheeses regularly moved between different ageing rooms for up to two weeks to form the delicate textured rind. They are then sent to London cheesemonger Neal’s Yard Dairy, which carries on the maturing process for another fortnight. “There are bacteria that are still working away,” explains Atkinson. “If you pasteurise, you can whack the cheese in plastic and it looks after itself. But we derive flavour and texture benefits from the maturing process, which people hopefully appreciate.” French cheese buffs are certainly convinced, but Atkinson is wary of becoming complacent. “We have to be on top of our game, not least because goats’ cheese is a lot cheaper in France,” he says. “Larger producers can make some pretty good stuff, so our flavours have to be spot on.” HMN Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor. Homewares available from Luxury Home, Second Floor Patrick McGuigan writes for Square Meal, ShortList and Restaurant

WHIPPED GOATS’ CHEESE, BAKED PEACHES AND PARMA HAM TOASTS Serves 4

FIG, WALNUT AND GOATS’ CHEESE SALAD

4 firm, ripe peaches, quartered and stones removed 1 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp honey 2 tbsp thyme leaves 200g Tymsboro goats’ cheese 150ml double cream 4 slices sourdough, toasted to serve 8 slices Parma ham, to serve Large handful rocket, to serve

For the dressing 1 shallot, finely chopped 1 tbsp honey 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Bunch flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C/390°F/Gas 6. Put the peach quarters into a baking dish. Drizzle over oil and honey, scatter with thyme, season and stir. Cook for 15 minutes, stirring halfway through. Remove and allow to cool to room temperature. 2 Remove the rind from the goats’ cheese and then beat until smooth. Add the cream, season with black pepper and stir well to combine. 3 Spread the toast with the goats’ cheese mixture and divide among four plates. Pile on the ham and rocket, and top with baked peaches and the pan juices.

Serve with... Seresin Sauvignon Blanc 2013, Marlborough, New Zealand £17.95

Serves 4 1 To make the dressing, place all ingredients in a bowl, season generously, stir well and set aside. 2 Put the frisée, chicory and chopped walnuts in a large bowl, pour over the dressing and toss to coat. Divide among four plates, top with fig quarters and goats’ cheese, and serve.

For the salad 1 head frisée, broken into pieces 1 head chicory, broken into leaves 75g toasted walnuts, roughly chopped 8 small ripe figs, quartered 250g Stawley goats’ cheese, broken into pieces

Serve with... Mont de Joie Sauvignon Blanc IGP 2013, Loire, France £12.50

FROM TOP Baccarat Véga glass £97; Meissen Jardin de Marrakech – Art dinner plate £254; Jars Tourron dessert plate £19.95

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Villeroy & Boch White Pearl salad plate £18.90 and Neufaden-Merlemont fork £17.50; Baccarat Véga glass £155

FOOD

CLASSIC CHEESECAKE WITH MIXED BERRIES Serves 6–8 For the base 100g digestive biscuits, processed to fine crumbs 50g oatcakes, processed to fine crumbs 1 tbsp caster sugar 100g butter, melted For the filling 600g full-fat cream cheese 300g Tymsboro goats’ cheese 150g caster sugar 3 medium eggs, lightly beaten Zest of 1 lemon 50g plain flour Mixed berries, to serve

1 Preheat the oven to 160°C/320°F/Gas 3. Grease a 20cm springform cake tin and line the base and sides with baking paper. Mix the biscuit and oatcake crumbs, sugar and melted butter until well combined. Transfer to the prepared tin and spread the crumbs to cover the base in a compacted layer. Chill until needed. 2 To make the filling, remove the outer rind of the goats’ cheese, then beat with the cream cheese using an electric whisk until smooth. Stir in the sugar, then gradually add the eggs, beating until fully combined. Stir in the lemon zest. Sift in the flour and fold into the mix. 3 Scrape the mixture into the cake tin, smooth the top and transfer to the oven. Bake for 55 minutes or until just set, with the tiniest wobble in the centre. Turn off the heat and allow to cool in the oven, then refrigerate. Serve with mixed berries.

Serve with...

ROASTED SQUASH, BARLEY AND GOATS’ CHEESE SALAD Serves 4 150g pearl barley 1 butternut squash, cut into wedges 2 red onions, cut into wedges 2 tbsp olive oil, plus extra to drizzle 1 tsp chilli flakes Juice and zest of 1 lemon Handful tarragon leaves, finely chopped Handful flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped 250g Stawley goats’ cheese, broken into pieces

1 Cook the pearl barley according to the packet instructions until just tender. Drain, rinse under cold water and set aside. 2 Preheat the oven to 200°C/390°F/Gas 6. Put the squash on a large baking tray with the onion wedges, oil and chilli flakes, then toss to combine. Bake for 20 minutes, then remove the onion from the tray, return the squash to the oven and cook for a further 20 minutes or until tender. 3 Combine the pearl barley, squash, onion, a drizzle of oil, lemon juice and zest, and herbs in a large bowl. Season and stir. Pile onto a serving platter and dot over the goats’ cheese. Serve at room temperature.

Serve with... Baron de Ladoucette Pouilly-Fumé 2012, Loire, France £31.95

Château de la Bretesche Muscadet Sèvre-etMaine Sur Lie 2013, Loire, France £14.50

FROM TOP Meissen Jardin

de Marrakech – Art large dinner plate £718; Carrs English Thread cake slice from £61.95; Jars Tourron presentation bowl £29.95 and dessert plate £19.95; Villeroy & Boch Neufaden-Merlemont pastry fork £14.50

Villeroy & Boch Colour Concept tumblers £19.50 each, White Pearl platter £75 and Neufaden-Merlemont serving spoons £49.95 each Food available from Food Halls, Ground Floor. Homewares available from Luxury Home and Villeroy & Boch, Second Floor; and harrods.com HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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NEWS

A GOOD CATCH

Chef of the Se son

OLLIE DABBOUS

Among the images conjured up by the onset of summer, eating crab sandwiches on the seafront is one of the more evocative. Now you can recreate that experience wherever you are – minus the sea air, perhaps, but with the local catch – courtesy of fresh crab from the Cornish coastal towns of St Ives and Newlyn. The tasty crustacean is available whole, dressed or simply as meat – prepared to order by expert fishmongers, to avoid all that awkward hammering and cracking. Best of all, there won’t be any diving seagulls to worry about. Dressed crab £6.95 each; whole crab £17 per kg; white crab meat £60 per kg. Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor

That’s the spirit This year marks the 250th anniversary of Hennessy, founded in 1765 by Irishman Richard Hennessy, who was inspired by his compatriots’ fondness for brandy. Today, under the stewardship of the family’s eighth generation, the renowned Cognac house has released a special blend to commemorate the milestone. The Hennessy 250 Collector Blend is a mixture of eaux de vie selected by master blender Yann Fillioux, who celebrates 50 years at the house this year. Aged in 250 specially selected casks, each with a capacity of 250 litres, the spirit has rich, fruity notes of orange peel and delicate notes of spice. Hennessy 250 Collector Blend 100cl, £360. Available from The Spirits Room, Lower Ground Floor

Crabs Gallery Stock

Picnic perfect

A hamper isn’t just for Christmas. The Food Halls can fill a cool bag or a wicker hamper (crockery, cutlery and glasses handily included) with a bespoke selection of delicacies – and a bottle or two of something cold – for a perfect summer picnic. Consider Paxton & Whitfield crackers, ready to be smothered in truffle burrata; caramelised onion and cheddar flat empanadas laden with Comtesse du Barry pâté and chutney; or maybe Fratelli Lunardi’s lemon and lime cantucci, ready to dip into whatever you please. A wealth of picnic-ready summer produce can be packed up for you. Just don’t forget the corkscrew. Four-person hamper £100 (right), two-person hamper £75; large cool bag £22.95, medium cool bag £17.95; food and drink items priced separately. Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor

After working with Rowley Leigh, Raymond Blanc and Claude Bosi, a 30-year-old Ollie Dabbous launched his own restaurant, Dabbous, in 2012. It quickly drew critical acclaim, had a waiting list of up to a year, and was awarded a Michelin star. Dabbous launched a second restaurant, Barnyard, two years later, and he is Harrods Chef of the Season this summer. “Raymond Blanc was a huge influence. It wasn’t just the technical skills I learned – the clarity of flavours and lightness of touch – it was his intensity, how he’s still so enthusiastic, still looking to improve after so many years. I didn’t branch out alone to become famous. It was about freedom of expression. After so many years training, I finally had the opportunity to cook my own dishes in my own environment. It’s incredibly satisfying, despite the pain along the way. Home chefs have a tendency to overcook everything, from meat to vegetables. My advice is to always read the recipe all the way through before you start, and to season as you go, tasting all the while. The dishes I’ve created for Harrods are stylistically aligned with my restaurant, but with a bit more accessibility. It’s summer, so I’ve gone for a mix of cold foods, salads and baked goods with a simple, light feel where you can taste all the ingredients. So there’s a fennel salad with lemon balm and pickled rose petals, and a rabbit pie with spring vegetables, seasoned with fenugreek (top). Being a chef is almost like a sporting career in terms of the energy levels and sacrifices required. It takes it out of you. I don’t want to do it forever – I can’t see myself in the kitchen in my fifties. I’ve already achieved more than I thought possible.” X WATCH Download the Harrods app to cook with Ollie Dabbous

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FOOD

PIZZA cake

The perfect pizza has traditionally been the preserve of big paddles and brick ovens, ideally in Naples. Now, though, home cooks have the tools to compete BY GUY WOODWA

FOOD STYLIST

D / PHOTOG APHE JAN BALDWIN OSIE EYNOLDS

FOOD

Large globe artichokes £0.75 per 100g; pink garlic £2.50 per 100g; cherry tomatoes £1.25 per 100g; Don Antonio Passata di Pomodoro £3.95 and Green Olives in Rosemary Oil £6.25

HOMEWARES

Sage The Scraper Mixer Pro £299; Peugeot pepper mill £24.95; Kilner large jar £4.50; Villeroy & Boch Neufaden-Merlemont serving spoon £49.95 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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FOOD

HOMEWARES

Don Antonio Passata di Pomodoro £3.95; pink garlic £2.50 per 100g; cherry tomatoes £1.25 per 100g; mixed olives £2.05 per 100g; L’Estornell caper berries 175g, £7.95; Parmesan 250g, £9.45; basil £2.95 per punnet

Villeroy & Boch spoon £49.95 and dip bowls £15.90 each; Microplane fine cheese grater £24.95; Chadwick pizza oven £385; Trudeau oil infuser £27.95; Rösle pizza cutter £32.95

here are certain types of cuisine for which home-cooked renditions never seem quite as satisfying as restaurant versions, no matter which recipe you use. Indian meals, for one; arguably Chinese food too. And pizza. Always pizza. Without your own brick oven, it’s always going to be a challenge to replicate the environment required to produce that combination of crispy base, chewy middle and bubbling top. It’s simple physics. Domestic ovens only reach temperatures of around 250°C, maybe 300°C at a push. And just as the tandoor is an integral part of every Indian chef’s armoury, a wood-burning brick or stone oven is necessary to hit the 400°C needed for perfect pizza. Now, however, home cooks have been offered a solution in the form of an ingenious innovation from British artist and designer Daniel Chadwick. His Chadwick Oven (top right) is designed to be put on top of a gas hob, where it reaches 400°C within 12 minutes, then cooks the pizza in a mere four minutes. Even more important (apart from the reassurance that, no, the handle doesn’t get hot) is the fact that the oven’s porous surface helps to concentrate the heat, creating a dry environment that draws the moisture from the dough for that all-important base.

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Cookshop events KitchenAid offers a masterclass in artisan bread rolls and pizza dough. 19th to 21st June and 10th to 12th July, 11.30am–4pm Sage creates a barbecue sauce using the Boss blender. 27th and 28th June, 11am–7pm; 29th June, 11.30am–6.30pm Vitamix will demonstrate its Pro 300 and Pro 750 blenders. 2nd to 5th and 16th to 19th July, 11.30am–6pm For more information, please call 020 7730 1234 and ask for Cookshop

All that’s left to worry about is the perfect dough mixture – for which Sage’s The Scraper Mixer Pro is a huge help. After that, it’s a question of toppings, where the less-ismore approach pays dividends. Beyond the initial layering of the passata (make your own from chopped tomatoes, garlic, salt and pepper and perhaps that most Italian of herbs, basil; or Don Antonio’s Passata di Pomodoro also does the job well), try mozzarella, olives and capers. Mozzarella di Bufala Campana Terre di Nerina is the queen of drawn curd cheeses, its buffalo milk coming from small farms dotted along the shores of Italy’s Cilento National Park. Add fresh rocket and cherry tomatoes – both coming into their own in June, when the flavour of the latter peaks – and you’ve got the perfect Anglo-Italian marriage. HMN Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor. Homewares available from Cookshop and Home Appliances, Second Floor For one week from 29th June, the Food Halls will be offering 20% off all pizzas. On 18th July between 11am–4pm, Daniel Chadwick and chef Adam Glover will be making a range of pizzas on the Second Floor.

NEWS

True gem Home storage should be about more than pure functionality. The team at Linley appreciates that prized possessions deserve a loving home. The latest additions to its Precious Stone Collection are two jewellery boxes inspired by the facets of cut rubies and sapphires. Handcrafted in sycamore, each piece is painstakingly hand-dyed before being inlaid. With a removable tray and a padded ring slot, what better place to keep your most treasured pieces? £9,500. Available from The Great Writing Room, Second Floor

A TABLE OF ICE AND FIRE

A frosty reception takes on a whole new meaning with the Glacier table from Timothy Oulton. The British designer’s penchant for gentlemen’s-club style is reflected in the coffee table’s aesthetic. Celebrating Oulton’s streak of eccentricity, the way the table is made is brilliantly experimental. First of all, the timber beams are set alight with a blowtorch to create a charred look, then encased in glossy acrylic to mimic melting icebergs. From £5,825. Available from Timothy Oulton, Third Floor

Happy days Taking inspiration from 1950s America, Sound Leisure creates jukeboxes that combine vintage looks with the latest technology. The Rocket fuses retro flair with automotive styling and comes with an 80-CD capacity, Bluetooth receiver and a six-way speaker system. From £7,500. Available from Harrods Technology, Third Floor

Italian inspiration A love of travel has led tableware designer Elad Yifrach, the founder of L’Objet, to seek out skilled artisans worldwide to pair traditional craftsmanship with modern design. The latest Alchimie de Venise collaboration is a case in point. Working with Venetian textile expert Fortuny, L’Objet has translated the house’s prints onto plates, bowls, table linen and lanterns. The collection is a hoard of metallics, with matte and shiny gilded elements inspired by the reflections in Venice’s canals. Bowl £775. Available from Luxury Home, Second Floor

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PEA LY KING-SIZE

Expanding its design horizons, Italian fashion house La Perla has not only shown its first atelier collection at couture fashion week, but also joined forces with Fazzini to create a range of bed linen. The collection uses sumptuous fabrics and takes inspiration from Italian architecture and pearls. Arched doorways are reimagined in lace; embroidery adorns silk-satin bedspreads; and cashmere throws are made for cuddling up in. Venere king-size duvet set £1,150 and cushion £229; South Sea throw £599. Available from Luxury Linens, Second Floor

NEWS

BOOKS

ith v -v -v

Sweet DISPOSITION Sustainably produced kosher chocolate from Italy wouldn’t seem to be the most obvious competition for the chocolatiers of Belgium, Switzerland and France. Cecilia Tessieri, however, has the Midas touch; her brand Amedei has won the Academy of Chocolate’s prestigious Golden Bean award in the Dark Chocolate Bean to Bar category four times in a row. Tessieri imports cacao beans from Madagascar, Venezuela and Ecuador and then, in her Tuscan workshop, roasts, husks, grinds and blends them, and “conches” the mixture to refine it. The resultant chocolate is exported, in various flavours, as far afield as Chez Panisse in California and Zuma in Hong Kong, and can also be found in-store from May to August as a range of gift boxes containing bars, neapolitans and pralines. Gift boxes from £80; exclusive to Harrods. Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor

Foam favourite The perfect coffee machine should require enough effort to feel authentic, yet still be a pleasure to use. Jura’s latest, the Z6, gets the balance right. The water tank, bean grinder and control panel are all accessed from the front of the machine – no more reaching around to check if the tank needs refilling (something that, in any case, the Z6 will alert you to via its interactive screen). High-pressure extraction ensures finely ground coffee with maximum flavour, and flat milk can be topped off with foam for a velvety, barista-style cappuccino. Best of all, the system cleans itself at the touch of a button. £1,895. Available from Home Appliances, Second Floor

HIDE & SLEEK

When it comes to creating a security device that complements the home, Italian style and Swiss precision make a fail-safe, ahem, combination. Agresti’s Il Forziere Delle Ore is a counter-size armoire that doubles as a safe, opening via biometric fingerprintrecognition technology. Its polished-ebony exterior has a bulletproof-glass window, behind which are nine Swiss-made watch winders and a secret compartment. With LED lighting and ruthenium-plated hardware, the safe is rendered with the finesse we’ve come to expect from the Florentine family firm, which has been operating for more than 60 years. £48,700. Available from Agresti, Third Floor

The Pininfarina Book by Günther Raupp Italian car designer Pininfarina has created models for Ferrari, Maserati and Alfa Romeo over the years, and this book tracks its output and changing techniques from the 1930s to the present day. One for hardcore petrolheads. £80 Porsche 917: Archive and Works Catalogue 1968-1975 by Walter Näher Given that only 64 Porsche 917s were made, a 576-page tome on the model may seem excessive. But devotees will love this history of a racing legend, compiled from the Porsche archive. £85 Mille Miglia: 1000 Miles of Passion Italy’s famous road race from Brescia to Rome and back was first held in 1927. Mille Miglia features dynamic photos of the 2014 race, and a documentation of the event’s cars, landscapes and people throughout the years. £65 Motorcycle Passion by Michael Köckritz Treating motorcycles as cultural objects as much as vehicles, this compendium delves into their evolution by way of key songs, films and gear. It also charts the technical progress of the motorcycle, seen by some as the ultimate symbol of independence. £45 Cars and Trucks and Things That Go by Paul Smith for Richard Scarry Sir Paul Smith has redesigned the children’s book with fun interactive elements. In a limited run of 1,000, each copy comes with five prints. Deluxe box set £200 Available from Harrods Books & Cards, Second Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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HIDDEN GEM

“When you’re buying a lady a diamond,” advises Jean van der Haegen, “go for size over clarity.” This isn’t something I do every week, but I’m nevertheless happy to hear the wisdom of this genial fifth-generation jeweller whose glittering showroom still features the magnificently swirling Art-Nouveau shopfront built by his forebears in 1902. “At heart,” says van der Haegen, “what most women really want is something big and bright.” He should know. More than 80 per cent of the world’s rough diamonds pass through Belgium’s second city, which also handles 50 per cent of the global cut-diamond market, with around €200m worth of diamonds traded here daily. Set beside the Scheldt river, Antwerp is a port city that sparkles in many ways. Not as twee as tourist-swamped Bruges to the west, it’s more fun than Eurocrat-filled Brussels, just under an hour’s drive to the south. Its northernmost district brushes up against the Netherlands and you can sense the determination of its citizens to preserve their Flemish culture. Signs and menus often only come in Belgian Dutch, and at The Chocolate Line, a palatial Belgian chocolate emporium created by maverick “shock-o-latier” Dominique Persoone, it’s tricky to figure out all the wacky flavours. I can unravel bittere ganache en marsepein van Japanse wasabi (brilliant!), but praliné van hennepzaadjes? As it turns out, that’s praline with, er, hemp seeds, aka cannabis. (But not the psychoactive variety.)

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FROM TOP The Stadhuis in Antwerp’s historic Grote Markt; Peter Paul Rubens, part of the city’s artistic fabric

Antwerp peaked early. Its “golden age” came in the first half of the 1500s thanks to global trade and Christophe Plantin’s establishment of the largest printing firm in Europe – now, as The Plantin-Moretus Museum, a World Heritage site. The start of the Eighty Years War in 1568 sparked decades of upheaval, but amid the savage turmoil, one man rose to prominence: painter and diplomat Peter Paul Rubens. His restored home, Rubenshuis, is now a major attraction, as are the four huge Rubens altarpieces in the towering Cathedral of Our Lady. Equally unmissable is the Rockoxhuis. Built by Nicolaas Rockox, a wealthy contemporary of the Baroque artist, it currently houses numerous works from Antwerp’s Royal Museum of Fine Arts, which is being restored, including Jean Fouquet’s extraordinary blue and red Virgin and Child Surrounded by Angels (circa 1450). After all this stimulating art, it may be time for a drink, and Antwerp is a fine place to investigate Dutch gin (jenever). The cosy De Vagant café-restaurant serves 200 varieties, with more available in its adjoining store – much of it in distinctive clay bottles. The Belgians also harbour a near-religious devotion to beer, with the local brew, De Koninck, served in a bolleke, a chalicelike glass that makes you feel like an extra in a Robin Hood film. And the medieval mood continues in the city centre, where ornate guild houses line the Grote Markt, a

Stadhuis Getty Images; Peter Paul ubens Jan Pollers

Once the economic jewel in Europe’s crown, now the centre of the world diamond trade, Antwerp is a city that’s full of surprises BY NIGEL TISDALL

Dries Van Noten exhibition Koen de Waal; Museum aan de Stroom Sarah Blee

T R AV E L

cobbled square dominated by the flag-festooned Stadhuis (City Hall), celebrating its 450th anniversary this year. They do like an imposing edifice here, from the fanciful brick watchtowers erected to spot returning merchants’ ships to the Art Deco-style Boerentoren – Europe’s first skyscraper when it was completed in 1932. Other historic buildings, meanwhile, have been colonised by top-class restaurants: Het Pomphuis is set in a vast former pumphouse, while The Jane is housed in a grandiose chapel once attached to a military hospital. Book a table at Zuiderterras and you can watch the barges sail by, or venture to the Zurenborg neighbourhood to marvel at the Belle-Époque buildings of Cogels-Osylei before dining on superb fish and seafood at the Dôme Sur Mer. This individuality is also a hallmark of the city’s best accommodation: few big brands, just a handful of boutique hotels and designer B&Bs. One of the most appealing is the 21-room Hotel Julien, spanning two townhouses with oak floors and serene, high-ceilinged lounges. Antwerp’s trick is that it values the traditional yet also embraces the fresh and creative – one reason why it’s now one of the world’s top 10 fashion hubs. That, and the “Antwerp Six”; no, not a group of political prisoners, but a bunch of graduates from the Antwerp Royal Academy who took 1986 London Fashion Week by storm. Legend has it they were so called because no one could

pronounce their long Flemish monikers; the style-savvy soon learned to wrap their tongues around names that included Ann Demeulemeester, Dries Van Noten and Walter Van Beirendonck. A retrospective devoted to Van Noten’s exuberant couture is showing at the MoMu fashion museum until 19th July. As a counterpoint to the high-fashion outlets, there are little gems such as the glove shop Ganterie Boon (in business since 1884), while the place to go on Sundays is Kloosterstraat, a long run of vintage shops and markets that’s become a delightful hipsters’ trawl. Should you, like me, end up with a heavy 1960s blender (€25… and it works!), don’t worry: whether on foot, aboard a tram, or using the ubiquitous Velo Antwerpen bike-hire system, getting around the city is easy. There are plenty of other discoveries to be made. The Sint-Anna Tunnel is a pedestrian/cycle route under the Scheldt river that opened in 1933 and has the wooden escalators to prove it. And from picnic spots on the left bank there are great views across to the city – which now includes two new landmark museums. Opened in 2011, the 10-storey MAS (Museum aan de Stroom) is a chorizohued tower devoted to the city’s history, with great views from its free-entry roof terrace – open until midnight six days a week, April to October. Nearby is the Red Star Line Museum, unveiled in 2013, which tells the story of the two million people who set sail from Antwerp to the USA and Canada between 1873 and 1934. Some, such as Alfred Einstein, were Red Star regulars; the vast majority were emigrants en route to a new life, among them Irving Berlin. Both museums are in the northern district of Het Eilandje. This is where the city meets the port and where regeneration is rife – and soon there will be another signature building: the new Antwerp Port Authority headquarters, designed by Zaha Hadid Architects. Based around an old fire station, it will be crowned by a vast angular structure mixing transparent and reflective glass. It looks rather like a huge diamond. Of course. HMN FROM TOP The elegant Hotel Julien; the MoMu fashion museum’s Dries Van Noten retrospective; The Chocolate Line specialises in unusual flavours including curry and cola; Museum aan de Stroom (MAS) offers history lessons and city-wide views

Nigel Tisdall contributes to The Telegraph and is travel editor of Marie Claire For more information, go to visitantwerpen.be and visitflanders.co.uk X WATCH Download the Harrods app for our “Top 10 Things to Do in Antwerp” guide HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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PARK MANSIONS Knightsbridge, SW1 Setting a benchmark for design, this apartment of 1,156sq ft (107sq m) combines bespoke interiors with state-of-the-art technology. The property is located on the third floor of a landmark building opposite Hyde Park. It features a Crestron home-automation system and benefits from a double reception room, master bedroom with a large en-suite bathroom, second bedroom, study/staff bedroom, kitchen/breakfast room with Gaggenau appliances, and a shower room. The building has 24-hour porterage, security and lift. EPC rating D. Leasehold: Approximately 237 years remaining Guide price: ÂŁ3,500,000; subject to contract 020 7893 8343 leila.dyominova@harrodsestates.com

KNIGHTSBRIDGE OFFICE: 82 BROMPTON ROAD LONDON SW3 1ER T: +44 (0)20 7225 6506 MAYFAIR OFFICE: 61 PARK LANE LONDON W1 1QF T: +44 (0)20 7409 9001 CHELSEA OFFICE: 58 FULHAM ROAD LONDON SW3 6HH T: +44 (0)20 7225 6700 KENSINGTON OFFICE: 48-50 KENSINGTON CHURCH STREET LONDON W8 4DG T: +44 (0)20 3650 4600 HARRODSESTATES.COM

MY STYLE Ray-Ban sunglasses £170

At London Fashion Week AW15

Saint Laurent Lulu bag £1,380

Missoni Mare bikini £295

At London Fashion Week AW15

Tea gardens, Sri Lanka

Aesop Fabulous Face Oil £40

Chloé

Chloé shorts £325

Valentino espadrilles £615

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LUCY WILLIAMS

Tangle Teezer £10.20

With her understated style and tips on everything from fashion to food and travel, the Brit blogger has garnered a devoted following on her Fashion Me Now website BY

Describe your signature style. Casual, relaxed and minimal with the occasional vintage or bohemian twist. You have a knack for mixing vintage, fast fashion and designer – how does it all come together? I think as long as they tie into your style, it’s super-easy to combine all three. It’s all in the details. A sleeve length, the wash and fit of denim or the buttons on a silk shirt can all be deal-breakers. Also, don’t go by size; even if you’re an 8, a size 12 or 14 might be more in line with the fit you actually want in knitwear, shirts and dresses. Do you follow trends, and, if so, which do you favour? I think everyone subconsciously follows trends, but I only buy into things that already work with my style and will last the distance. For example, being a bit of a colour-phobe, something like yellow stripes or neon pink wouldn’t be something I’d be able to pull off no matter who decreed it was on-trend. Do you have a favourite fashion era? Without doubt the Seventies and Nineties (asking me to choose between the two is tough). The blue denim and brown suede of the ’70s combined with the slinky shapes, spaghetti straps and grungy vibe of the ’90s is a winning combination for me. What are your five wardrobe staples? I’d be lost without my Belstaff black leather biker jacket, so that’s number one. Then I’d say leather trousers, my ripped jeans, black ankle boots and chunky Theory jumpers (although in the summer I live in cut-off Levi’s and flats). I’ve just invested in a Saint Laurent Lulu bag, too, so that’s definitely a current favourite.

What do you look for when making a fashion investment? Longevity, plus I have to really, really love it. If you feel giddy with excitement after putting the card down, it’s a good purchase. If you feel guilty, a bit sick, and your palms start to sweat, it probably needs to go back. What’s currently on your wish list? Valentino espadrilles and a Missoni swimsuit. Who are your top designers? I love Chloé, Isabel Marant, Acne and The Row; I also like what Nicolas Ghesquière is doing at Louis Vuitton. Whose style do you admire? All sorts of people, from editors, models and bloggers, to friends. I wish I was a bit braver, as I always want to ask girls in London where their coat/bag/boots are from. I’d say Kate Moss, Ashley Olsen, Elin Kling, Jane Birkin and Caroline de Maigret are always inspiring. Which are your favourite travel destinations and what do you pack? I recently returned from Sri Lanka where we visited some incredible places including tea gardens and the coast. I always take loads of bikinis, Ray-Ban sunglasses, a big pile of books, and plenty of sunscreen. Which are your favourite beauty products? Eve Lom cleanser, Crème de la Mer eye serum and Aesop facial serum are three skincare favourites. Plus I’d be lost without my Tangle Teezer and Kérastase hair oil. Available from The Beauty Apothecary, Luxury Accessories and Sunglasses, Ground Floor; International Designer, Superbrands and Swim & Sunglasses, First Floor; Harrods Shoe Heaven, Sunglasses and Urban Retreat, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com

London Fashion Week and Sri Lanka Getty Images; oil drizzle Alamy

Louis Vuitton dress £7,670

Louis Vuitton

style