Harrods Magazine June 2013

EDITOR’S LE T TER

Lovers of looking laid-back will delight in the latest trend in fashion. Dressing down – that is, not looking like you’ve tried too hard – is the contemporary way to address formality.

Main photo Emily Sellers; cover image Jon Compson

Thanks to the current clutch of It girls, with model Edie Campbell at the head, pairing an evening gown with worn-out Converse or attending a black-tie event without a scrap of make-up is de rigueur. The latter may be a step too far for the majority of us, but the former – well, just imagine the bliss of a cocktail party in flats. This is better than not looking like you’ve tried too hard; it’s actually looking like you’re not trying at all (with the bonus of having comfy feet).

Men haven’t been forgotten in all this, but they’ve been dressing down for the past few seasons, teaming tuxes with jeans, for example. The 2013 update is to accentuate the mismatch; biker leathers with gilded brocade may sound more akin to looking like you’ve done it all wrong. But that’s fashion for you.

Editor-in-Chief

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CONTENTS

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June/July 2013

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NEW THIS MONTH 21 TOP 20 Launches, special offers and events for June and July 27 ZEITGEIST People and places in the air right now 33 GOODBYE, MR CRAWLEY He rose to fame as the non-aristocrat who charmed Lady Mary and saved Downton Abbey. Dan Stevens’ latest role, as an army officer involved in a love triangle, is his first on the big screen

FASHION COVER

Photographer JON COMPSON; Senior Fashion Assistant BECKY BRANCH; Hair FEDERICO at CLM; Make-up JO FROST at CLM; Model SOPHIE YALL at IMG wearing Carven dress £880 For more information, download the June and July Harrods Magazine apps

37 DRESSING DOWN DRESSING UP Done-up glamour has become a little bit undone as eveningwear designers team fluttering gowns with flats, embellished dresses with braids and floor-length numbers with bare faces 40 WOMENSWEAR NEWS Stella McCartney’s graphic gowns; the Sunflower Collection of daytime diamonds from Harry Winston; Australian brand Francis Leon; a mini-interview with Dennis Basso 42 BLANC DE BLANC The shade of romance and retro-futurism, white is summer’s equivalent to winter black 44 WOMENSWEAR NEWS The PS13 bag from Proenza Schouler; Alexander McQueen pre-fall 2013; the Gatsby-inspired Zeigfeld Collection from Tiffany & Co; wedges by Casadei for Prabal Gurung 46 LE LEFT-BANK CHIC Pretty yet edgy, prim but a bit naughty, Guillaume Henry’s collections for Carven capture the essence of style à la Parisienne 50 HOW TO WEAR YELLOW From mustard to custard, the colour isn’t for shrinking daffodils 54 MENSWEAR NEWS Leather digital cases from Burberry Prorsum; grunge style from Hedi Slimane for Saint Laurent; the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 1887 Collection; the Grooming Guru gets in the mood for oud 56 ALL HANDS ON DECK The blue and white combo smartens up for 2013, with pale slacks, blazers and deck shoes not confined to a life at sea 58 WELL, YOU CAN TELL BY THE WAY I USE MY WALK A new generation of jeans has arrived: low-riders, high-waisters, weird washes, wild finishes, crazy prints and super-crops.

But ultimately, it’s all about the jeans 68 ROLLER GIRL, SKATER BOY With one wheel set in the ’80s and the other speeding ahead in technologically advanced fabrics, the new take on weekending involves micro shorts, layered racer tops and mismatched brights

74 NEW KIND OF COOL Buttoned up or laid back? This season’s menswear designers are presenting a combination, with smart jacquards and fine tweeds worn with jeans, and biker leathers mixed with gilded brocades

BEAUTY 83 THE NEW COLOUR RULES World-renowned make-up authority Kay Montano uses Chanel’s SS13 collections to rewrite how we wear summer colour 87 MISS HEAVEN SCENT 89 BIRDS OF PARADISE The colours of the tropics inspire an exotic palette of fuchsia, turquoise and bronze 90 LE BEACH, C’EST CHIC Jet-skiing across the Med requires a certain assured elegance that comes from shimmering skin and a warm glow 92 HIGH FIVE Marigay McKee, Fashion and Beauty Director at Harrods, reveals her top five beauty treats for June and July 94 BEAUTY NEWS Carolina Herrera’s new CH Eau de Parfum Sublime; Miss Maquillage on summer foundations; Volumising Shampoo and Conditioner by Sensai; Lancôme Absolue Precious Cells White

FOOD & LIFESTYLE 99 A CUT ABOVE For three generations, the Paganoni family has used Chianina beef to produce salted, air-dried bresaola in Italy’s Valtellina valley 104 FOOD NEWS Old-fashioned tuck-shop candy from Penny’s Sweets; The Baking Tree’s kits for baking with kids; The Wasabi Company; In-Q Café’s Qatari-style coffee and Medjool dates 106 TEN MINUTES WITH JOSEPH JOSEPH Collapsible colanders, foldable chopping boards and adjustable rolling pins are light-bulb moments in kitchenware design.

The brothers behind the brand discuss their bright (and not so bright) ideas 110 HARRODS ESTATES Specialising in prime residential properties in central London and the Home Counties 114 THE ULTIMATE MAP REFERENCE Tucked between the Tuileries Gardens and Rue de la Paix, Place Vendôme is the Paris home of France’s most salubrious brands, and has a kudos of its own HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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MAGAZINE

HARRODS MAGAZINE EDITOR-IN-CHIEF DEBORAH BEE ART DIRECTOR BARNEY PICKARD DEPUTY EDITOR FLEUR FRUZZA CHIEF SUB-EDITORS LISA HILLMAN, NICOLETTE THOMPSON SUB-EDITORS JANICE MORTON, MADELEINE MURPHY PRODUCER LISA BONNICI ART EDITORS SONJA BURRI, NATALIE MOSQUERA SENIOR DESIGNER RACHEL ESCUDIER JUNIOR DESIGNER OLIVER JAMIESON ART ASSISTANT JENNIFER MYER HEAD OF DIGITAL DESIGN BOB DEVSI FASHION WRITER LAURA JORDAN STAFF WRITER AMY BROOMFIELD EDITORIAL ASSISTANT LOUISE FISH FASHION EDITOR JODIE NELLIST DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR POPPY ROCK SENIOR FASHION ASSISTANT BECKY BRANCH JUNIOR FASHION ASSISTANT OLIVIA HALSALL ACTING ASSISTANT PRODUCER EMILY SELLERS PICTURE ASSISTANT KIAAN ORANGE BOOKINGS EDITORS WENDY HINTON, RIKKI KEENE MENSWEAR FASHION EDITOR MITCHELL BELK PUBLISHER BETH HODDER DIGITAL MANAGER CLAUDIA ORRELL DIGITAL DESIGNER JAIME RIVERA JUNIOR DIGITAL DESIGNER TAK YEUNG CHEUNG ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER ALETHEA QUARTEY PUBLISHING ASSISTANT PHOEBE FISHER ACTING MANAGING EDITOR SUZY CHAPMAN PRODUCTION MANAGER HAYLEY YOUNG PRODUCTION ASSISTANT CAMILLA JOSEPHS HARRODS STORE IMAGE

IMAGE DIRECTOR MARK BRIGGS GROUP DIRECTOR OF CORPORATE AFFAIRS KATHARINE WITTY DIRECTOR OF CUSTOMER RELATIONSHIP MANAGEMENT CHIARA VARESE

HARRODS MEDIA

MEDIA SALES DIRECTOR GUY CHESTON HEAD OF MEDIA SALES CHARLOTTE MARKS ACTING HEAD OF MEDIA SALES SUMAN RANDHAWA MEDIA SALES MANAGER NICOLE IVASCHENKO ACCOUNT EXECUTIVE CHRISTINA SANTICHATSAK MEDIA PROMOTIONS PROJECT MANAGER ELLEN PAGLIARULO MEDIA MARKETING MANAGER KATIE ARNAUD MEDIA MARKETING ASSISTANT LAURA PARSONS MARKETING & MEDIA SALES MANAGER, BEAUTY VIRGINIE DUIGOU MARKETING & MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVE, BEAUTY NATALIE KASSNER MARKETING MANAGER, FASHION GIANMARIA PIZZOCHERI MEDIA SALES MANAGER, FASHION PATRICK MARTIN MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVE, FASHION SOPHIE HAMP MEDIA SALES ASSISTANTS, FASHION HASHIM JAVAID, OLIVIA YOUNG MEDIA SALES MANAGER, FASHION ACCESSORIES AND FINE JEWELLERY & WATCHES ROANNE ORLEBAR MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVES, FASHION ACCESSORIES

SOPHIE MIDDLETON, LUCINDA ANDREWS MEDIA SALES ASSISTANT, FASHION ACCESSORIES ELISE HAWKINS MARKETING & PR MANAGER, FOOD HALLS POOJA SHARMA MARKETING & PR MANAGER, RESTAURANTS LYNDA COOKE MEDIA SALES, FOOD HALLS & RESTAURANTS EMMA-LOUISE GEARY MARKETING MANAGER, HOME LIAM BUTLER MEDIA SALES MANAGER, HOME CHRIS SWEET MEDIA SALES EXECUTIVES, HOME ADELE BROUSSE, HON BAN LEE

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120,666 Period: 1st July 2012 to 31st December 2012

TOP 20

TOP 20

Launches, special offers and events for June & July

1. Armani Collezioni jacket

The king of precision tailoring has created four exclusive pieces, including a double-breasted jacket with suede trim. £775. International Designer, First Floor; and harrods.com

2. Sisley sun care Parisian skincare expert Sisley launches the Super Stick Solaire SPF 30 this month, for sensitive facial skin. £67.50. The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

3. Theo Fennell Bee cuff links The bee has made its way to men’s accessories in Theo Fennell’s yellow-gold, white-gold and black rhodium cuff links. £2,250.

The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

4. Athena Procopiou Fairies scarf The Central Saint Martins graduate has conjured up scarves with fairy-tale-inspired prints. £420; exclusive to Harrods. Scarves, Gloves & Hats, Lower Ground Floor

5. Sony Xperia Tablet Z Slimmer and lighter than any other tablet, Sony’s Xperia Tablet Z is available in LTE or Wi-Fi versions. It’s also waterproof – a crucial feature by the pool. From £399.

Harrods Technology, Third Floor

6. Miharayasuhiro menswear Taking cues from ’70s Tokyo street style, Miharayasuhiro’s jackets feature traditional Japanese embroidery. Jacket £1,350. Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor

7. Ob for Shu Uemura Japanese artist Ob has illustrated packaging for Shu Uemura’s Spring Sakura line, including the UVUB mousses. From £29. The Colour Hall, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

8. La Prairie Cellular Power Serum The latest in La Prairie’s Power series is a serum that maximises skin’s defences against ageing free radicals. 50ml, £322. The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

9. Wearing Memories jewellery The cap from a bottle of Champagne can become a keepsake when placed in a sterling silver Wearing Memories ring, necklace or bracelet. From £195; exclusive to Harrods.

The Champagne Bar, First Floor

10. MAC eye colour collection SS13’s trend for bold, bright and exotic eyes can be re-created with MAC’s opulent new Art of the Eye collection. From £10; exclusive to Harrods. The Colour Hall, Ground Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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11. M Missoni AW13 The bodycon knit dresses in M Missoni’s AW13 line take their cue from the rock and punk frontwomen of the ’80s. Dress £575; exclusive to Harrods. Designer Collections, First Floor; and harrods.com

12. South American wine tasting Explore the wines of South America in a tasting event on 25th July. £40; 7pm to 9pm in The Wine Shop, Lower Ground Floor.

For more information, call 020 7893 8777

13. Guerlain Gold Bee flacons Originally made to house Eau de Cologne Impériale for Empress Eugénie, Guerlain’s Gold Bee bottle is available in three sizes and can be filled with any Guerlain fragrance.

Available to order from £1,300; exclusive to Harrods. The Perfumery Hall, Ground Floor

14. Mulberry briefcase The latest Mulberry must-have, the Single Briefcase Classic Printed Calf, comes in dovegrey leather. £1,100. Men’s Accessories, Lower Ground Floor; and harrods.com

15. Summer Sale wine tasting Wine fans can sample more than 30 wines that will be in the Summer Sale at a tasting event on 13th June. £50 to £150; 7pm to 9pm in The Wine Shop, Lower Ground Floor.

For more information, call 020 7893 8777

16. Citizens of Humanity jacket Working a vintage aesthetic, Citizens of Humanity makes super-soft denim. The Daryl jacket’s waxed finish adds a modern touch.

Men’s Casuals, Lower Ground Floor

17. Chloé exclusive dress As feminine as grown-up frocks, Chloé’s girls’ dresses with Swarovski crystals are ready for a garden-party debut. From £630; exclusive to Harrods. Childrenswear, Fourth Floor

18. Lanvin trainers A sci-fi take on a classic, the latest addition to Lanvin’s cult trainer collection comes in metallicised snake-effect leather. £600. Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

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High-gloss lacquer and richly coloured woods are signatures of Malerba’s Red Carpet range.

Table from £8,759. International Lifestyle Furniture, Third Floor

20. Radical skincare With a high concentration of actives, Radical’s Antioxidant Serum and Restorative Moisture set is an anti-ageing essential. £195; exclusive to Harrods. The Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

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Vineyard and wine glass Getty Images

19. Malerba furniture

ZEITGEIST PEOPLE & PLACES in the air in June & July

BY LAURA JORDAN & BEN FELSENBURG

Farrar Benjamin McMahon

FASHION Simeon Farrar Simeon Farrar was working as an artist when he began putting prints onto T-shirts. “A design has a different life when it’s on a T-shirt rather than a canvas,” he says. This sideline has now become Farrar’s full-time job. When he did his first London Fashion Week in 2004, he was taking orders before he even had an order book. “It was mental,” he says, “but I’ve never looked back.” Despite the growing business, everything is still handmade in Farrar’s East London studio. “It means we work incredibly hard, but the product speaks for itself,” he says. “I don’t like art where the making of it is masked. It’s an idea I put into my clothes; you can really see how they’re created. People who buy my T-shirts are interested in art, process and handmade things.” Farrar is serious about his craft, but not about himself. His litmus test for whether to use a print? If it makes him laugh. “The funny little drawings are quite often the most successful,” he says. “Sometimes I’m sitting at my desk sketching a stupid animal and I just think, My job is awesome. It’s a good life.” Available from The Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor; and harrods.com HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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ZEITGEIST Carlos Acosta

DANCE Carlos Acosta – Classical Selection

From Nijinsky to Baryshnikov, every generation has had a male dancer whose charisma transcends the world of ballet.

In our era, that dancer is Carlos Acosta. The Cuban star, who just turned 40, will perform pas de deux from the classical canon with some of his favourite partners.

From 30th July to 4th August at the London Coliseum

THEATRE The Cripple of Inishmaan

THEATRE Private Lives

Two years on from the final Harry Potter film, Daniel Radcliffe has established himself as a versatile performer on both stage and screen, and left the part of the boy wizard far behind. Further evidence of Radcliffe’s range comes as he takes the lead role in this comedy from the brilliant Irish playwright Martin McDonagh (who directed In Bruges).

Radcliffe plays Billy, who is determined to escape his cloistered existence on the Aran Islands in the 1930s via a part in a Hollywood film. McDonagh’s subversive humour is a tremendous vehicle for Radcliffe’s comic gifts.

From 8th June to 31st August at the Noël Coward Theatre

No play epitomises the cut-glass wit of Noël Coward like this delicious 1930 comedy about a divorced couple who are reunited by chance and find themselves drawn back together. These aren’t parts that just anyone can play, but Anna Chancellor and Toby Stephens have the panache and style that the period demands.

The London transfer of the production, which won critical acclaim in Chichester last year, is also a neat bit of family history for Stephens, whose parents Maggie Smith and Robert Stephens took the lead roles in the West End 40 years ago.

From 22nd June at the Gielgud Theatre

Daniel Radcliffe

Acosta © Angela Taylor

EXHIBITION RHS Hampton Court Palace Flower Show Preview Evening Spread out over 34 acres in the grounds of Hampton Court Palace, the Royal Horticultural Society’s flower show (from 9th to 14th July) is an exotically unpredictable empire of colour featuring hundreds of exhibitors. For one summer’s night on the eve of the exhibition opening to the wider public, it’s also the setting for luxury and entertainment at the Exclusive Preview Evening. Stroll through the gardens before the crowds arrive and enjoy fine dining and gourmet picnics by the Long Water – the centuries-old canal – while roaming musicians and live bands provide entertainment. Finally, an epic fireworks display will rival the flowers themselves for spectacle.

8th July at Hampton Court Palace HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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ZEITGEIST Fallen Angel suit designed by John Galliano, 1985

FILM Now You See Me It’s strictly a case of expect the unexpected in this heist caper.

A quartet of Las Vegas magicians appear to have robbed a bank thousands of miles away and, during a performance, shower the auditorium with the stolen cash. While the audience is delighted, it falls to the FBI to try to bring an end to the Robin Hood antics of the gang, which is led by Michael Atlas (Jesse Eisenberg) – if only detective Dylan Hobbs (Mark Ruffalo) can work out where illusion ends and real crime begins. Co-starring Isla Fisher, Woody Harrelson and Michael Caine, Now You See Me is a light-hearted but very smart film. Opens on 21st June in the UK

EXHIBITION

FROM LEFT Isla Fisher, Jesse Eisenberg, Woody Harrelson and Dave Franco in Now You See Me

BOOK

V&A Gallery of Fashion

After a long day browsing through the matchless fashion displays in the Victoria and Albert Museum, you’ll yearn to take some of the dazzling items home, and now you can – in the form of V&A Gallery of Fashion. The museum houses the largest collection of dresses on the planet, and selected from them are works by Charles Frederick Worth, the Victorian Englishman and “the father of haute couture”, and Madeleine Vionnet – the greatest name in French fashion in the early 20th century – as well as more recent figures such as Mary Quant, Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen. £14.99. Available from Bookshop, Second Floor

OPERA La Rondine Among the great, soaring emotion of Puccini’s oeuvre is La Rondine, the composer’s sole operetta. It’s a light affair designed to replicate the success of the musical theatre that was all the rage in Europe at that time, and its tissue-thin plot involving the triangle of a banker, his mistress Magda and the man she falls in love with is simply a hook for Puccini’s incandescent melodies. Featuring soprano Angela Gheorghiu as Magda, the production shifts Puccini’s original setting of 1962’s Masterpiece 1850s Paris to the 1920s, to depict a world of romance and elegance swathed in Art-Deco style. From 5th to 21st July at the Royal Opera House

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From big shoulders to clubwear, fashion exploded into eclecticism in the ’80s. The V&A brings together a display that represents the chaotic splendour of the era in works by Betty Jackson, John Galliano, Katharine Hamnett and Rifat Ozbek, among others.

From 9th July at the Victoria and Albert Museum Angela Gheorghiu in La Rondine

Now You See Me Rex Features; La Rondine © Catherine Ashmore / ROH 2004

Club to Catwalk: London Fashion in the 1980s

INTERV IE W

GOODBYE, MR CRAWLEY

He rose to fame as the non-aristocrat who charmed Lady Mary and saved Downton Abbey. Dan Stevens’ latest role, as an army officer involved in a love triangle, is his first on the big screen BY MATT MUELLER

D

an Stevens may have ruined last Christmas for seven million fans of Downton Abbey – his onscreen alter ego, Matthew Crawley, was killed off – but the 30-year-old actor is happier than ever. The last 12 months have seen him deliver a rousing stint on Broadway with Jessica Chastain and David Strathairn in The Heiress (based on Henry James’ novel Washington Square), read 145 novels as a judge of the prestigious Man Booker Prize, take up the role of editor-at-large at the quarterly online magazine The Junket, become a father for the second time (he is married to South African jazz vocalist and singing teacher Susie Hariet) and produce and star in his first major film, the British period drama Summer in February.

Based on a true story, Summer in February is a classic doomed-love-triangle tale set within a bohemian artists’ colony in Lamorna Cove in Cornwall in the early 20th century. The painter Alfred James “AJ” Munnings, played by Dominic Cooper, is the charismatic leader of the group. Stevens plays Munnings’ best friend, Gilbert Evans, a rather less bohemian army officer who runs the Cornwall estate that includes Lamorna. Emily Browning plays Florence Carter-Wood, a young woman in flight from her corseted upbringing in London. She is drawn to both the exciting new painter and the conventional army officer. “It’s a really beautiful, intriguing, heartbreaking story,” Stevens says.

“Gilbert is the kind of character that I play a fair deal; he’s the outsider coming in and observing and getting caught up in it,” he continues. “There’s something quite interesting about someone from that [traditional] background going into a colony like that. People lose their footing quite easily. It’s the same with Florence; she gets swept away by the romance of the setting.”

Although the film is set in the Edwardian era – as is Downton Abbey – Stevens dismisses any similarities between Matthew and Gilbert. His eye for period detail, honed on the Downton set, certainly wasn’t needed.

“The artists wear the clothes of the time, but in a slightly unconventional way,” he explains. “It’s quite an experimental way of living. They were there to paint, to enjoy themselves and to live life to the full.”

ABOVE Stevens in the upcoming film Summer in February

The Lamorna Cove artists also included husband and wife Harold and Laura Knight. The latter became the first female member of the Royal Academy and was made a Dame. The artists were fond of painting in the open air and embracing the natural world, much like their Impressionist counterparts in France.

Although he is also one of the producers of the film, Stevens effectively has third billing in Summer in February, after Mamma Mia star Cooper and rising Australian actress Browning. The Cambridge-educated Stevens has been involved with the film since even before his Downton days – it is based on the book of the same name by Jonathan Smith, who was Stevens’ English teacher and mentor at Tonbridge School in Kent in the 1990s. Smith also wrote the screenplay.

Around seven years ago, the film rights were bought by another Tonbridge alumnus, Jeremy Cowdrey. He approached Stevens, who was at that time making his mark primarily in theatre, and together they got the film off the ground. It was a feat that became much easier when Downton Abbey turned Stevens into a huge star in both the UK and the US. When asked whether he would have preferred to play the more extroverted Munnings, Stevens modestly says, “Gilbert is a good role to start out with in film. This is my first British independent movie, and it’s a good foundation. I’ll get to those [larger] roles in the fullness of time.”

Since wrapping Summer in February and finishing on Downton Abbey, Stevens has made his Hollywood X HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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INTERV IE W

ABOVE Dominic Cooper and Stevens in Summer in February; BELOW With co-star Emily Browning

“I don’t see money or a particular status as an actor as a goal, but I want to do the best work I can... in an interesting range of roles” debut in the thriller A Walk Among the Tombstones with Liam Neeson and Ruth Wilson, and taken on the role of Guardian journalist Ian Katz in the WikiLeaks biopic The Fifth Estate, starring Benedict Cumberbatch as Julian Assange. His old mentor Smith is not surprised at all by Stevens’ success. He recalls an audacious request by the then 13-year-old schoolboy to audition against 18-yearolds for the title role in a student production of Macbeth.

“I always imagined Dan as Gilbert in Summer in February,” Smith says. “He’s very flexible and has a huge range.”

While shooting Summer in February, Stevens began filming season three of Downton, and had already made up his mind to leave the series at the end of his threeseason contract. “From a personal point of view, I wanted a chance to do other things,” he told The Daily Telegraph last December. “It is a very monopolising job. So there’s a strange sense of liberation at the same time as great sadness because I am very, very fond of the show and always will be. It is a desire for freedom, really. I don’t see money or a particular status as an actor as a goal, but I want to do the best work I can in as interesting a range of roles as I can.”

While taking note of the old adage that the best time to leave a party is when it is in full swing, Stevens knows he owes Downton Abbey a great deal. “It has been a fantastically valuable experience,” he says of the show, which took six months to shoot each season. “Doing anything longrunning like that is great for actors – to really work on a story arc and have a lot of screen time, which you don’t necessarily get on a feature film. Everybody on that show gets their shot; they each get their storyline. Over six months you learn a great deal about screen acting.”

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Viewers were not the only ones to be caught off guard by Stevens’ abrupt departure from the show. Downton Abbey writer and creator Julian Fellowes recently told The New York Times that he had wanted to begin season four with a whole episode building up to Matthew’s death; but Stevens was keen to leave. “I had hoped we could have ended the Christmas episode on a happy note – the baby, everything lovely – and then kill him in the first episode of the next series,” Fellowes said. “But [Stevens] didn’t want to do that. I didn’t want his death to dominate the Christmas special, so that’s why we killed him at the very end.”

It is anything but the end for Stevens. A Walk Among the Tombstones and The Fifth Estate are both due for release next year; and Summer in February, directed by Prime Suspect’s Christopher Menaul, will hit UK screens soon. “I like these soulful, tragic, romantic characters,” Stevens says with a grin. “They’re good fun.” HMN Summer in February opens on 14th June in the UK Matt Mueller contributes to Total Film, Screen International, Wonderland, Entertainment Weekly and The Guardian

THE LATEST LOOKS FROM THE INTERNATIONAL CATWALKS

Dressing down DRESSING UP

Done-up glamour has become a little bit undone as eveningwear designers team fluttering gowns with flats, embellished dresses with braids and floor-length numbers with bare faces

BY LAURA JORDAN

Alessandra Rich gown £2,150

HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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Badgley Mischka La Mania

Maria Grachvogel

Maria Grachvogel jumpsuit £1,299

La Mania jumpsuit £525

Toujouri gown £1,425

Azzaro jumpsuit £4,225

Flowers and lace iStockphoto

Toujouri

Jenny Packham gown £4,525

Badgley Mischka gown £4,825

Vionnet gown £15,500

Azzaro

Available from Eveningwear, First Floor; and harrods.com . For more information, download the July Harrods Magazine app

Patricia Bonaldi gown £1,550

Jenny Packham

I

n the done-up, dolled-up, dressed-up-to-the-nines world of eveningwear there’s a new mood afoot, and it’s a little, well, undone. After the gossamer whispers of a new attitude in previous seasons (cast your mind back to last summer’s Valentino triumph: minimal makeup, flat shoes, braided hair ever so slightly dishevelled), a new agenda has come to the fore. Now, done-up, dolledup, dressed-up-to-the-nines just looks rather try-hard.

Make no mistake; eveningwear is as faultlessly glamorous as ever, but the key to mastering the new mood is to keep it fresh and have a little fun. Alessandra Rich – a designer whose star ascends further each season – invests her afterdark dresses with a sense of whimsy and a touch of kitsch.

“I think it’s the moment for fashion to be less serious and more amused,” she says. “Fashion is beautiful for its frivolousness.” Spring/Summer 2013’s dresses, with their flame detailing and sheer skirts, were inspired by a Russian gymnast “leaving the gym in a hurry wearing her leotard, quickly adding a transparent lace skirt, ready to go to a party”. The flash of leg under a full-length gown brings a cheeky youthfulness to the formality of the style and makes an unusual alternative to a slit; sheer skirts were also seen at Jenny Packham and Badgley Mischka, and sheer sleeves at Patricia Bonaldi.

Elsewhere, designers are playing around with evening separates, giving pieces life beyond the rigidity of one “look”. Toujouri’s Lama El-Moatassem says separates allow the wearer to “style a piece with other items in their wardrobe and for different occasions, styled up or dressed down”. Vionnet’s demi-couture collection, meanwhile, includes a fluid gown with a black-tiered waist skirt that can be removed and worn as a cape.

When Sarah Jessica Parker walked the red carpet at the BAFTAs this year she was a striking reminder that evening options needn’t be limited to dresses. In a sea of frou-frou she cut a cool figure in her sleek, snug Elie Saab jumpsuit.

Other designers embracing the style include La Mania’s Joanna Przetakiewicz – whose fondness for clean lines is shown off on a strapless jumpsuit – and Azzaro, where the halterneck white piece has a hint of Studio 54 about it.

Maria Grachvogel, whose SS13 collection included an allin-one decorated with a print inspired by lava flowing over rocks, explains the appeal: “I love wearing jumpsuits for evening. They make me feel totally dressed up, as they’re long and chic, but also totally relaxed. The right one can take you to so many occasions.”

Fluttering gowns or fitted separates, coolly simple or confidently kitsch, anything goes in the new eveningwear: just keep accessories and make-up minimal and wear with the same insouciance as you would jeans and a T-shirt.

And isn’t that fitting? As Bonaldi puts it, when choosing after-dark options, “People have started to act more relaxed – and that’s how a party mood should be.” HMN

Vionnet

Alessandra Rich gown £1,925

Patricia Bonaldi

Alessandra Rich

FA SHION

You can take the COACH...

Luxury Accessories 6, Lower Ground Floor

FA SHION

Night fever Those who know and love the ease of Stella McCartney’s tailored blazers and slouchy trousers should prepare to be excited about the pre-fall 2013 collection. Among the languid suiting and mannish overcoats, optical stripes and appliquéd featherflowers, this season McCartney takes on eveningwear as well. Lean, long-sleeved column dresses feature coloured panels in contrasting velvet and brushed silk. Worn with minimal make-up and accessories, the graphic dresses are perfect for bringing a McCartney-style insouciance to formal occasions. Dress £2,699. Available from International Designer, First Floor

Sunflower power

Do diamonds have to be saved for after dark?

Not if Harry Winston has anything to do with it. The American jeweller has added to its Sunflower Collection of daytime diamonds – which first appeared in the 1950s – with a series of pendants and earrings. Introducing delicate new proportions, the pieces feature a round diamond surrounded by eight smaller stones for added brilliance. Flowers made of diamonds? If that doesn’t put a spring in your step, nothing will. Earrings from £15,400 and pendant from £8,150. Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

SAUCY AUSSIE Get ready for the latest label from down under: Francis Leon. The brand has gained attention with its tomboy attitude, and the new collection plays on a sporty vibe. Leather jackets are spliced with neoprene, grey marl and quilted panels.

Jacket £610. Available from The Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor

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An interview with DENNIS BASSO

by Laura Jordan

New York designer Dennis Basso is synonymous with extravagant furs and glamorous eveningwear, which have popped up on everyone from Naomi Campbell to Meryl Streep in The Devil Wears Prada. This year, he celebrates his 30th anniversary in the business. Basso talks to Harrods Magazine about why he has no intention of slowing down.

I can’t quite believe that 30 years have passed. It has been an amazing journey, but I feel as though I have only just begun. This whole year will be full of different celebrations.

My aesthetic is all about a refined look – always has been, since the day I started in 1983. From casual to evening, it’s about a total look. I want the brand to be identified with luxury and international women.

Basso women are united by their understanding of beautiful things and feeling glamorous.

Their personal style is very important to them, and they will experiment with fashion.

But they wear the clothes; the clothes never wear them.

Luxury is about how you feel; it comes from within. To wear something luxurious – or to be in a luxurious setting – is to feel and enjoy the experience.

I waited a long time to launch my fragrance, as I wanted the scent to be perfect. My FROM TOP Dennis Basso gowns idea was that it should be £11,500 for a woman of all seasons. £11,200, and £5,250.

It’s an ultra-feminine scent Available from that has a special allure, Eveningwear, First Floor a mixture of fresh citrus notes of Italian Bergamot and orange blossom, white florals and cashmere woods.

The brand is growing every day. I feel strongly about expanding my bag collection, shoes and daywear. It’s all very exciting. But what’s most important is that it be the best quality and craftsmanship.

...out of Manhattan...

Luxury Accessories 6, Lower Ground Floor

Victoria Beckham dress £1,675

Lara Bohinc ring £310

Victoria Beckham

Alexander Wang

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Stella McCartney blouse £799

*EDITOR’S CHOICE

Spliced transparent sections and modern lace details create the perfect pitch of classic and contemporary.

Alexander Wang top £875

3.1 Phillip Lim top £470

Tom Ford clutch £1,620

Prada sunglasses £215

Blanc de BLANC The shade of romance and retro-futurism, white is summer’s equivalent to winter black

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3.1 Phillip Lim blouse £470

Emilio Pucci gown £2,499

Kurt Geiger shoes £195

Nicholas Kirkwood shoes £650

The ultimate in mod meets romance, a white leather vest top is made sheer and delicate with laser-cut roses.

Whistles top £295 Rag & Bone belt £110 3.1 Phillip Lim tote £805

Brand item £xxxx

Available from Luxury Accessories, Lower Ground Floor; Luxury Accessories, Luxury Jewellery and Sunglasses, Ground Floor; Designer Studio, International Designer and The Shoe Salon, First Floor; The Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor; and harrods.com .

For more information, download the July Harrods Magazine app

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Alexander Wang catwalk Anthea Simms

Alexander McQueen shoes £845

Emilio Pucci

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The CLASSIC BRAND

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God save

MCQUEEN Sarah Burton continues her stellar run at Alexander McQueen with a brilliant Pre-Fall 2013 collection. This season, Burton was in a puritanical mood, taking her cue from the austere aesthetics of low-church Anglicanism.

This translated to architectural dresses with high collars, cassock-style coats in black jacquard and macramé dresses lined in virginal white; the pieces transition easily into a winter wardrobe, but still possess that inimitable McQueen drama. Our fashion prayers have been answered. Dress £2,399. Available from International Designer, First Floor

PS, we love you When Proenza Schouler design duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez launched the PS1 bag back in 2008, they declared it an anti-It bag. Not that that halted its success; the PS1’s unshouty detailing and lack of logos proved irresistible to the fashion pack. The new PS13 bag looks set for similar success among those in the know. The structured totes and clutches come in a range of colours and are toughened up by minimal detailing. The PS13 encapsulates the attitude that the Proenza Schouler boys have made their own; expect to see them dangling from the coolest arms this season. £1,610. Available from Luxury Accessories, Lower Ground Floor

Deco decadence As Carey Mulligan brings The Great Gatsby’s golden girl to the silver screen, it’s not just the parties and affairs to get excited about, but also the fabulous ’20s fashions. As Daisy Buchanan, Mulligan is a vision of Jazz Age gorgeousness in Prada-designed costumes and jewels from Tiffany & Co, which created all the jewellery for the film.

Taking inspiration from its archives, the house’s Ziegfeld Collection (named after the legendary New York theatre) also marks its 175th anniversary. The range includes pearl necklaces and a daisy-motif sterling-silver pendant with black onyx beads. From left Pearl necklace £810 and pearl tassel necklace £975. Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

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My life in shoes Cast your mind back to the early Noughties, when the wedge heel was a stomping new proposition in footwear. Phoebe Philo – as with many blazing trends over the past decade – started the spark. Then at Chloé, Philo masterminded the wedge renaissance in her sepia-tinted vision of the ’70s. Along with flared denim and smock shirts, chunky wooden heels were an integral part of the look. Wedges just felt cool and I, for one, couldn’t imagine wearing anything else. The clumpier and clunkier, the better.

But the thing about the new is that it quickly becomes the norm. And then, well, boring. So these last few years, the wedge has become a dull choice. The platform ones look crude in their hefty proportions and the watered-down “sensible” ones look safe.

But then what happens? A piece of shoe sculpture comes along and makes us rethink the whole thing. Enter Cesare Casadei’s show shoes for Nepal-born, New York-based bright young thing Prabal Gurung; they’re wedges, and a world away from boring.

Casadei has a reputation for using traditional craftsmanship to create contemporary designs, a synergy that is exemplified by the Gurung creations. Closedtoe pumps come in mesh – a sexy-sporty hybrid – while sandals in black or red snake print and patent leather slink up the foot.

It’s the wedges, however, that steal the show; they emphasise Casadei’s impeccable command of the craft. The jagged, veinlike lines on the Lucite heel are laser cut and hand painted. They’re finished with a galvanised blade heel, a Casadei design trope. These tough, almost bondage-y details give an elegant sandal a provocative edge. Dangerously sexy, they have a vampiric quality – but remember, you’re thinking True Blood, not Twilight. You could say the statement wedge is back from the dead. –By Laura Jordan Casadei for Prabal Gurung £820. Available from The Shoe Salon, First Floor

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Le Left-Bank

CHIC

Pretty yet edgy, prim but a tiny bit naughty, Guillaume Henry’s collections for Carven perfectly capture the essence of style à la Parisienne

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LAURA JORDAN / FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER JON COMPSON / DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR POPPY ROCK

here are fashion brands that demand attention and then there are brands that quietly command it, seemingly slinking into our consciousness. It starts with a whisper that becomes louder, until it is difficult – then impossible – to ignore. You’ll find these brands first on your lips, and then on your body, and you’ll wonder how you lived without them.

With next to no fuss, typical Carven flourishes have worked their way into the current style dialogue. If, in the last few years, you’ve found yourself wanting to wear a Peter Pan collar, sought out unusually positioned cut-out detailing on a dress, or decided that what your wardrobe really, really needed was a neat little nipped-in jacket, then you can thank Carven – whether you realise it or not.

It’s hard to believe that, until recently, the brand had little, if any, resonance in modern fashion. Just five years ago it was a dormant Parisian couture house; it received a kiss of life in 2008 when it was bought by holding group SCM and, the following year, Guillaume Henry was appointed as Creative Director.

Fast-forward to today and Carven is a fashion force to be reckoned with. It’s both a critical and commercial success sold at more than 700 venues, pictured on celebrities and style arbiters as diverse as Alexa Chung and Victoria Beckham, Rihanna and Isabelle Huppert.

Menswear was introduced in 2011 and a fragrance launched earlier this year. Sales are accelerating. In the Saint Germain HQ, there are rolls of bubble wrap and the odd handyman; the brand has only just

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relocated to the impressive five-storey building to accommodate the rapidly expanding team. There were five people, including Henry, at the beginning; today there are more than 80.

So just how did this young designer transform a neglected heirloom into hot Parisian property?

Sitting in the showroom, surrounded by rails holding the current collection, Henry ponders success. In his typically understated style, he makes it sound more like a happy accident than a grand design. “When we started, we had no marketing plan or anything,” he says.

In fact, the brand’s ascendancy seems a by-product of the fact that Henry completely, utterly adores fashion. There’s a real joie de vivre to the way he talks about the clothes. And it shows in the designs. “[Getting dressed] is one of the first things you do in the morning, so it has to be a fun moment, a happy moment,” he says. “It shouldn’t be difficult to put on a Carven dress, but it shouldn’t be normal either. It has to be special, but easy.”

Ease, to Henry, means accessibility, which is often a dirty word in fashion. “I love fashion in every sense: both extreme luxury, and also things you can find for almost nothing in a market,” he says. “We can mix them – the dream and the affordability. I wanted Carven to be a brand that people like and can wear.”

He might be courted by fashion industry power players today, but Henry credits the women in his life for his inclusive attitude. “Years ago, my friends were telling me, ‘I’m opening the magazines and X

Portrait Stéphane Gallois

BY

Carven jacket £700, shirt £250 and skirt £330; Manolo Blahnik shoes £450

Credits TK Images

I’m dreaming of all the pieces, but they’re too expensive.’ So my first thought was, Let’s do something they can afford.” To create a brand that’s at once desirable and democratic was a serious coup. Carven is a bit like a cool, pretty girl who also happens to be incredibly sweet; it’s a friendly brand.

People warm to Henry, too. With his enthusiasm, blue-eyed good looks and Carven menswear shrunken blazer, one can see the flashes of the 34-year-old designer as a boy. Henry was born and brought up in Humes, in eastern France, just a few hours (and yet a world away) from the epicentre of French fashion he inhabits today.

As a child, he saw a television report on an Yves Saint Laurent haute couture show. “I loved it,” he says. “I was in shock. It was everything I liked, but hadn’t yet realised it: the volume, the shape, the colours, the attitude, the girls. And I told my parents, ‘That’s what I want to do.’” He was nine.

While his friends spent their weekends riding bikes, the young Henry was, he says, “draping in my bedroom – a bit weird! I was sketching a lot. I was even working on prices.” At 12, he had his first sewing machine, at 15 his first mannequin. Instead of pop stars or footballers, fashion designers were his heroes. He even wrote a letter to Christian Lacroix asking for advice. For the record, Lacroix wrote back.

When Henry was 18, he moved to Paris to study at L’Institut Français de la Mode. “It was like crossing the ocean,” he says. “Finally I met people who looked like me.” Following a short stint at his own label, he worked at Givenchy under Julien Macdonald and Riccardo Tisci, and later Paule Ka. In 2009, Henry was approached by Carven CEO Henri Sebaoun to be Creative Director of the house. You have to hand it to Sebaoun for taking a punt on the then-unknown Henry. “Choosing Guillaume was obvious,” Sebaoun says. “He combined accessibility with creativity, youth, modernity and freshness, which is what I wanted for Carven.”

The house Henry inherited was, he says, a “sleeping beauty”. Founded in 1945 by Carmen de Tommaso, Carven was a couture house with a ready-to-wear attitude and an athletic femininity. By this point in history, however, if the name rang a bell it would have been largely for Ma Griffe perfume; for the most part Carven had been forgotten.

LEFT Carven dress £360; ABOVE Carven dress

£880; Manolo Blahnik shoes £450

Of course, without the weight of expectation comes liberation.

“When I arrived at Carven, it was like an empty page,” Henry says.

“It was only souvenirs. No shops, no archives, not even an atelier. It was completely open and free.” So he honed in on an attitude. “Even if Carven was old, it still had a freshness,” he says. “I like the idea that this is a brand for real women, and that was the spirit of it. It’s not really about a shape or a colour.”

The idea of a muse is important to Henry, who, as a cinephile, says he approaches each collection “like a movie director”. His “muse” for the SS13 collection was a woman arriving in India or Africa for the first time. She wears cotton poplin shirts buttoned all the way up, tulle dresses with intricate cutaways around the décolletage, neat shift dresses and tailored skirt suits. Jackets are slightly shrunken, lapels slightly oversized and pockets slightly high on the waist – all typical Carven touches. Hems come to the knee or just below. The playful details – a removable collar, say, or a leather-lace suit – are underpinned by clever craftsmanship. Take the tweed woven to look like raffia; it’s light, but has enough stiffness to approximate 20thcentury couture silhouettes. And there’s always a touch of humour in a Carven collection – it is a feel-good brand, after all – and this time it comes in the form of a kitsch safari print.

“She’s a bit lost,” Henry says of his muse, “but I like her vulnerability. It’s exotic, but she’s dressed up; there’s contradiction.”

The interplay of opposites has become an Henry signature; a Carven collection is at once pretty and edgy, prim and naughty. “Clothes are to dress people, and people are not the same,” he says. “We can be X HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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THIS PAGE Vertu Ti Titanium Black Leather £6,700; OPPOSITE PAGE, FROM LEFT Vertu Ti Titanium in Black Leather £6,700, PVD Red Gold £13,900, Black Alligator £8,900 and Pure Black £7,900.

Available from The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor

PROMOTION

Magic touch Just when the world thought mobile-phone technology had reached its apex, along comes Vertu’s Ti. With its titanium casing, multitasking capabilities, audiovisual quality and exclusive 24/7 services, the term smartphone doesn’t do it justice

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Credits TK Images

ike a Chanel bag or an Hermès scarf, a Vertu mobile phone is not designed simply to perform a practical task.

Yes, it’s all very well that your quilted leather clutch can house your car keys, your pretty head square keeps out the drafts, and your mobile can call home and take photos.

The difference with these products is that they are so intelligently constructed, so discreetly and elegantly perfect, that they transcend function and become something else: something to marvel at.

Design icons of the 20th and 21st centuries have been created by all manner of luxury brands – from Dior to Dyson, Philippe Starck to Fendi – but rarely has a mobile phone appeared on the list. That is, until 2002, when Vertu arrived on the scene and gathered itself a famous fanbase. So what is it that makes Vertu so desirable?

Some will cite its sleek design. Others will say that, in terms of telecommunications, there’s more than aesthetics to consider, and that the ability to connect instantly to dozens of lifestyle services at the touch of a button is a stroke of genius in its own right. Great style, cool content, or a combination of the two; Vertu owns this niche in the luxury market.

Based in Hampshire, Vertu is the UK’s only phone manufacturer specialising in high-end handmade mobiles. The designers behind each model take such pride in their creations that you will find their signatures etched behind the SIM cardholder inside the device. And, with the latest edition – the Ti – Vertu has upped the

technical specifications and teamed up with Google to enter a new realm of technical wizardry. The Google Android 4.0 operating system supports easy multitasking and provides rich colour and deep interactivity. For the Vertu Ti, it means a highly responsive screen, sharp pictures and super-fast apps.

In terms of audio, Vertu has joined forces with Danish company Bang & Olufsen to make sure the phone delivers stereo-quality sound, as well as noise cancellation for extra clarity through the microphone. The high-quality sound system undoubtedly gets the best out of the vast ringtone suite, which has been recorded exclusively for Vertu by the London Symphony Orchestra.

The Android platform, together with a 1.7 GHz processor, helps power a huge 64GB of memory space, an 8MP camera for stills and 1080p video capture, and a 1.3MP front-facing camera. Externally – naturally – Vertu has spared no expense. The 3.7" screen is made from virtually scratchproof sapphire crystal, while the case is a mixture of leather and grade 5 titanium, making it up to five times stronger than other smartphones.

Perhaps the most important feature of the Ti, however, is its range of exclusive services. Life, Concierge and Certainty provide global, 24-hour, live personal assistance as well as dozens of other customisable features. Book hotels and restaurants, source tickets to sold-out events, find a doctor abroad, or gain exclusive access to the latest club – all at the touch of a button.

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O Romeo, Romeo. Christopher Bailey’s exemplary choice in stellar Burberry models continues. The young Mr Beckham, however, seems to have eclipsed the stars of Edie and Cara with his twinkly almond eyes and toothy grin. He’s Becks in miniature; what’s not to love? But focus, now: it’s man bags we’re here to discuss. The metallics that popped up on the Burberry Prorsum catwalk have translated into a range of leather digital cases that are up there with any It bag and, frankly, cross the gender divide with ease. Perfect for a mobile device; a tad small for a diminutive 10-year-old. From £399. Available from the new House of Burberry, Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor

The Hedi ’90s Music was always going to play a big part in Hedi Slimane’s menswear debut for Saint Laurent. From the Ty Segall soundtrack to the musician models – and, of course, the aesthetic, which had all the swagger of Jagger – rock took centre stage. The collection included double-breasted coats, plaid shirts, leopard print and trailing scarves. And the trousers? They were leather and distressed denim and, of course, skinny, skinny, skinny. Inspired by LA (where Slimane is based), the clothes made a perfect accompaniment to the womenswear debut.

One thing’s for sure: the Saint Laurent man and woman make a very cool couple.

From left Coat £7,750; cardigan £699, shirt £435 and scarf £245; coat £1,525 and jeans £285. Available from Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor

GOOD VIBRATIONS Ask any TAG-ophile for key moments in the Swiss watchmaker’s history, and the 1887-patented oscillating pinion will come up. Created under the guardianship of Edouard Heuer, the oscillating pinion is celebrated in the brand’s 2013 Carrera Calibre 1887 Collection. The most classically good-looking piece in the range is the Chronograph, based on the popular Calibre 16 design and housing the updated 1887 movement. Other contemporary rethinks include a ceramic bezel and tachymetre scale, brushed aluminium case and sapphire case back. £3,850. Available from The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor and on display in the Brompton Road windows in June

THE GROOMING GURU

is in the mood for oud

Trends in fragrance can come and go as quickly as the sparkling top notes you smell when you first apply a scent. Barely do you get a chance to enjoy them and they’ve vanished.

Not so oud-based scents. In fact, each year seems to bring a new crop of interesting fragrances based around the precious, smoky wood. And with good reason: its scent is deep, intoxicating and evocative of the Middle East.

I can’t get enough of it, which might explain why Tom Ford’s Oud Wood, blended with rose, vetiver, vanilla and amber, is one of my favourites.

I’ve worn it for years, and it never fails to elicit compliments.

It’s not quite as intense as some ouds, so it’s a good introduction to the genre.

Also worth checking out, though, is Oud Royal from Giorgio Armani’s Privé collection, which is also built around oud, rose and amber but has a deeper smokiness and a delicious hint of liquorice.

Creed’s Royal FROM TOP Tom Ford Oud Oud is lighter, Wood 100ml, £195; Giorgio fresher and greener, Armani Oud Royal 100ml, £190; Creed Royal Oud thanks to notes of 75ml, £187; Hugo Boss lemon, bergamot Damask Oud 50ml, £115; and galbanum; it’s Roja Parfums Musk Aoud ideal for daytime.

30ml, £295. Available from The Gentleman’s If you like your Lounge, Lower Ground fragrances deep Floor; The Colour and and punchy, how Perfumery Halls, Ground about Hugo Boss’ Floor; and harrods.com Damask Oud? Woody, smoky and earthy, it has a delicious, dark tarriness to it.

Finally, if you’re looking for a statement scent, make sure you sample Roja Parfums’ Musk Aoud, which is fantastic for summer nights. Whichever of these fragrances you choose, though, be prepared: once you’ve been bitten by the oud bug, there’s no going back.

Lee Kynaston is Online Grooming Editor of menshealth.co.uk and has his own blog at groomingguru.co.uk

Saint Laurent Catwalking.com

This year’s model

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Vivienne Westwood

APC sweater £139

Dolce & Gabbana belt £260

Paul Smith T-shirt £59.95

Vivienne Westwood top £99.95 and trousers £389

Tommy Hilfiger jacket £409

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Bally shoes £370

Sebago shoes £110

Tod’s shoes £270

The SHOES The new nautical footwear of choice combines deck-shoe deshabille with loafing-around loafers. The Tod’s calfskin version is the original – and the best.

Hackett scarf £74.95

Louis Vuitton

All hands on DECK Gucci

The blue and white combo smartens up for 2013, with pale slacks, blazers and deck shoes not confined to a life at sea Gucci cardigan and trousers from a selection

Hackett polo shirt £119

Louis Vuitton sweater £775

Dolce & Gabbana shirt £560

Thom Browne shorts £329

Etro shorts £139

Jil Sander sweater £439

*EDITOR’S CHOICE

A Panama comes travel-ready rollable from Borsalino, while Etro’s paisley print is wild and oversized in its new swim collection.

Borsalino hat £159

Available from Men’s Accessories, Men’s Designerwear & Men’s Casuals and The Men’s Shoe Salon, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor; and harrods.com .

For more information, download the July Harrods Magazine app

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Paul Smith sunglasses £242

PROMOTION

Pinnacle of SUCCESS The brand whose Meisterstück pen became its most celebrated creation is launching an exclusive leather accessories collection

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very great brand has a piece that marks the pinnacle of its success. For Montblanc, it is the Meisterstück, a fountain pen that was invented in 1924 and has withstood the years as one of the most celebrated writing instruments of the 20th and 21st centuries. Originally reserved just for pens, since 1935 the Meisterstück name has been extended to a range of leather goods. Now, to mark the launch of The Great Writing Room, Montblanc has worked with Harrods to create an exclusive, four-piece range of Meisterstück Selection leather accessories. The star of the show is the one-off alligator leather briefcase with a diamond-studded clasp. The collection also includes a tablet cover, of which there are only 50, a lambskin leather wallet and an iPhone 5 case, both limited to 100 pieces, all in British Racing Green. Each piece has been handmade in Florence by specialised craftsmen using the quality of materials that deservedly earn the Meisterstück title. iPhone 5 case £175, wallet £185 and tablet cover £470; exclusive to Harrods. Available from The Great Writing Room, Second Floor

WELL, YOU CAN TELL BY THE WAY I USE MY WALK

A new generation of jeans has arrived: low-riders, high-waisters, weird washes, wild finishes, crazy prints and super-crops.

But ultimately, it’s all about the jeans PHOTOGRAPHER DAVID GOLDMAN DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR POPPY ROCK

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THIS PAGE Lanvin jacket £2,025; McQ Alexander McQueen T-shirt £125; Joe’s Jeans jeans £215; Kurt Geiger shoes £110; OPPOSITE PAGE L’Agence jacket £380; Alice + Olivia T-shirt £160; Koral jeans £185; Alexander McQueen scarf £350 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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THIS PAGE Each Other jacket £1,025; Lanvin top £725; Koral jeans £185; OPPOSITE PAGE Each Other jacket £950 and shirt £225; Rag & Bone jeans £220; Stella McCartney bag £610; Kurt Geiger shoes £220

LEFT Helmut Lang jacket £825; Each Other shirt £180; Paige jeans £200; Rag & Bone belt £95; Kurt Geiger shoes £220; RIGHT Sandro jacket from a selection; Each Other T-shirt £84.95; J Brand jeans £275; Kurt Geiger sandals £140

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THIS PAGE Emilio Pucci jacket £2,575;

Sandro top from a selection; Mother jeans £225; Kurt Geiger shoes £110; OPPOSITE PAGE Roland Mouret jacket £950; 3.1 Phillip Lim T-shirt £315; Koral jeans £185 Hair KEIICHIRO HIRANO at DWM using Bumble and Bumble Make-up CAROLINE BARNES at Frank Agency Models MIA OMYALIEVA at Premier and JESS GOLD at Models 1 Fashion Assistant BECKY BRANCH Photographer’s Assistants CHRIS PARSONS and SAM COPELAND Available from Designer Studio, International Designer and Studio, First Floor; The Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor; and harrods.com .

For more information, download the June Harrods Magazine app HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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Stella McCartney for Adidas visor £29.95, tracksuit top £99.95 and shorts £59.95; Lucas Hugh vest top £119; Nike bra top £22.95

Roller girl, Skater boy With one wheel set in the ’80s and the other speeding ahead in technologically advanced fabrics, the new take on weekending involves micro shorts, layered racer tops and mismatched brights PHOTOGRAPHER RYAN MICHAEL KELLY / DEPUTY FASHION EDITOR POPPY ROCK

HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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THIS PAGE, TOP Blood Brother T-shirt £39.95; Orlebar Brown shorts £159; Ray-Ban sunglasses £125; RIGHT Stella McCartney for Adidas visor £29.95, yellow vest £64.95 and shorts £54.95; Lucas Hugh vest £129; Falke socks £12.95; OPPOSITE PAGE Franklin & Marshall vest £34.95; Lucas Hugh sports bra £67.95; Stella McCartney for Adidas leggings £59.95; Falke socks £12.95

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ABOVE, LEFT Stella McCartney for Adidas jacket £139; Lucas Hugh vest £95.95; Franklin & Marshall shorts £44.95; Falke socks £12.95; Burberry sunglasses £189; ABOVE, RIGHT UCLA T-shirt £29.95; Adidas tracksuit bottoms £50; Ray-Ban sunglasses £125; LEFT Y-3 T-shirt £139; Björn Borg tracksuit bottoms £89.95

Hair & Make-up MARTINCHRISTOPHER HARPER at Kate Ryan Models KRISTEL VAN VALKENHOEF at Muse and ANDRE BENTZER at DNA Fashion Assistant OLIVIA HALSALL Photographer’s Assistant KIT LEUZARDER Available from Sports Fashion, Fifth Floor; and harrods.com For more information, download the July Harrods Magazine app

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THIS PAGE, LEFT Etro coat £1,275, scarf £360 and trousers £195; RIGHT Etro jacket £1,675, polo neck from a selection, sweater (around neck) £250 and trousers £225; OPPOSITE PAGE, LEFT Lanvin jacket £1,925, trousers £325 and shoes £300; CENTRE Lanvin jacket £2,325, trousers £699 and shoes £640; RIGHT Lanvin sweater £750, shirt £255, trousers £325 and shoes £300 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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THIS PAGE, LEFT Balenciaga shirt £599 and trousers £470; RIGHT Balenciaga jacket £1,699, shirt £410 and trousers £470; OPPOSITE PAGE, LEFT Balmain jacket £2,625, T-shirt £330 and trousers £850; Lanvin shoes £715; CENTRE Balmain jacket £2,190 and T-shirt £375; RIGHT Balmain jacket £2,625, T-shirt £250, pashmina from a selection and trousers £625; Balenciaga boots £425

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LEFT Vivienne Westwood jacket £899, polo neck £195 and trousers £400; Oliver Sweeney shoes £350; SECOND FROM LEFT Vivienne Westwood jacket £899, waistcoat from a selection, shirt £295 and trousers £435; Jil Sander shoes from a selection; SECOND FROM RIGHT

Valentino jacket £1,175, shirt £275, tie £99.95, trousers £395 and shoes £565; RIGHT Vivienne Westwood jacket £899, shirt £215 and trousers £400; Jimmy Choo shoes from a selection

FA SHION

LEFT Moncler jacket from a selection, T-shirt £190, trousers £315 and hat £135; RIGHT Moncler coat £1,119 and trousers £315

Grooming KEIICHIRO HIRANO at DWM and PERCY at Les Doigts Management Models LUIZ LEITE at Select, JOHN TODD at Next, ISAAC CAREW at Nevs and TY OGUNKOYA at Premier Junior Fashion Assistant OLIVIA HALSALL Photographer’s Assistants WILL MARSDEN, DAN ROSS and RORY GARDINER

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Available from Men’s International Gallery and The Men’s Shoe Salon, Lower Ground Floor; and harrods. com . For more information, download the June Harrods Magazine app

SKINCARE / COSMETICS / FRAGRANCE

THE NEW

colour rules World-renowned make-up authority Kay Montano uses Chanel’s SS13 collections to rewrite how we wear summer colour

BY FLEUR FRUZZA / PHOTOGRAPHER BILLIE SCHEEPERS

BRONZE AGE “The mistake people often make with bronzer is using one flat colour; this looks unnatural. I’ve used a lighter shade all over, then a darker one under the cheekbones and on the edge of the face to create naturally sun-kissed contours.”

SKIN Chanel Perfection Lumière Fluid Makeup £36, Poudre Universelle Compacte £30, Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Powder in 30 and 50, £38 each; EYES Stylo Yeux Waterproof in True Blue £19, Inimitable Waterproof Mascara in Blue Note £24; LIPS Rouge Coco Shine in Idylle £24; NAILS Le Vernis in Azuré £18 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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THE NEW NEUTRAL “Pairing neutral tones with brighter shades is what makes this look modern. I’ve created brown smoky eyes, which are all about careful blending to give depth and dimension. I’ve then teamed this with a brighter coral-pink sheer lip colour rather than a nude.”

SKIN Chanel Perfection Lumière Fluid Makeup £36, Poudre Universelle Compacte £30, Les Beiges Healthy Glow Sheer Powder in 30 and 50 £38 each; EYES Les 4 Ombres in Séduction £38; Le Volume de Chanel Mascara in Noir £24; LIPS Rouge Coco Shine in Pygmalion £24; NAILS Le Vernis in Lilis £18

BE AU T Y

SOFT BRIGHTS “To keep bold eye shadow contemporary, avoid using mascara. This will give the look softness and youth, and stop the colour looking hard. It also means you can push the boundaries a little further and wear bright eyes with equally bold lips.”

SKIN

Chanel Perfection Lumière Fluid Makeup £38; EYES Les 4 Ombres in Fascination £38; LIPS Rouge Coco Shine in Monte-Carlo £24; NAILS Le Vernis in Bel-Argus £18

BE AU T Y

SUMMER METALLICS “I love the new eye shadow formulation from Chanel. I’ve used three shades here. It’s easy to apply, easy to blend, and the texture is light and shimmery without being greasy.”

SKIN EYES

Chanel Perfection Lumière Fluid Makeup £38; Stylo Eyeshadow in Pink Lagoon, Blue Bay and Jade Shore £23 each, Le Volume de Chanel Mascara in Noir £24; LIPS Rouge Coco in Rose Dentelle £24; NAILS Le Vernis in Bel-Argus £18

Make-up KAY MONTANO at D&V Management Hair AYO LAGUDA Manicurist SABRINA at LMC Worldwide Make-up Assistant ARABELLA PRESTON Model ANNA RUDENKO at Premier Photographer’s Assistants BRUNO and LUCY Available from The Colour and Cosmetics Halls, Ground Floor; and harrods.com .

To see the masterclass video, download the June Harrods Magazine app

BELOW, FROM LEFT Chanel Le Vernis in Azuré £18; Stylo Yeux Waterproof in True Blue £19; Inimitable Waterproof Mascara in Blue Note

£24; Stylo Eyeshadow in Pink Lagoon and Blue Bay £23 each; Le Vernis in Bel-Argus £18; Les 4 Ombres in Seduction £38; Le Vernis in Lilis £18; Les 4 Ombres in Fascination £38; Rouge Coco Shine in Pygmalion £24

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MISS HEAVEN SCENT on fragrances spiced with oud Oud. Aoud. Agarwood. Whatever you call it (I’ll stick with oud), I first encountered its deeply brooding character in Yves Saint Laurent’s masculine fragrance, M7. A creation, under the direction of Tom Ford, that didn’t exactly catch on at the time. Or rather it did for fans like me, the fire of appreciation fanned by the ads of recumbent model Samuel de Cubber. But many were pretty sniffy about the potion, so let’s say it was polarising.

Just over a decade on, oud is now ubiquitous in Western niche perfumery, having been venerated for centuries in the East, where it has long wreathed ceremonies and festivals with its incense intensity. Natural oud, as you doubtless know by now, is a dark resin.

Cough-splutteringly expensive, it is found in the heartwood of the Aquilaria tree and produced in response to attack from a fungus, so it has plenty of fight.

The scent of oud – or a top-notch synthetic rendition – is complex. Perhaps animalic, woody, steely, honeyed, leathery, undergrowthy, camp-firey. A bit medicinal, and magnetic.

An arboreal brew, redolent of ritual and loaded with raunchy intent. Modern perfumers now use the note in varied ways to appeal to different tastes. And while oud fragrances may be marketed as male, female or unisex, the whether-towear decision is up to you.

The smoky Oud & Bergamot by Jo Malone radiates with the clarity of crisp bergamot and an orange granite accord, and is now available in a decadent 200ml bottle. Meanwhile, Caron’s Secret Oud rushes up to present oud with a floral bouquet, imbuing it with a glamorous FROM TOP Yves Saint French attitude. Midnight Oud by Laurent M7 80ml, £63; Juliette Has a Gun gathers notes of Jo Malone Oud & Bergamot amber, musk and sandalwood to soft, 200ml, £160, exclusive to nuzzling effect.

Harrods; Caron Secret Oud For a poised and polished portrait, 50ml, £165; Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud 100ml, there’s Acqua di Parma’s Colonia £101; Acqua di Parma Intensa Oud. It’s citrusy at the start, Colonia Intensa Oud 180ml, then refined and rounded with rich £175, exclusive to Harrods; woods, leather and a dash of Russian Tom Ford Plum Japonais 50ml, £140. Available from coriander essence.

The Beauty Apothecary and Finally, we have Tom Ford. Mr Ford The Colour and Perfumery now has the warm and sophisticated Halls, Ground Floor; and Private Blend Oud Wood. And in his harrods.com new Atelier d’Orient collection (all of which is glorious, by the way), I couldn’t help but notice that Plum Japonais contains agarbois, a technology-derived oud wood note. Here, the velvet juiciness of Asian ume plum is served with sensual reverence.

Jan Masters contributes to Vogue Nippon and Marie Claire

MAG AZINE

BE AU T Y S T Y LE

Dior Addict Gloss in Diablotine £22

Dior Summer Nail Lacquer Duo in Samba £22

Estée Lauder Pure Color Sheer RollerGloss in (from left) Squeeze and Succulent £17 each

Dior 5 Couleurs Eyeshadow Palette in Blue Lagoon £40

Dior Jelly Lip Pen in Carioca £19

Jo Malone Saffron Cologne Intense 100ml, £95

Issa

Guerlain Météorites Perles Primer £42

Birds of PARADISE

The colours of the tropics inspire an exotic palette of fuchsia, turquoise and bronze *EDITOR’S CHOICE

Investing in a large, professional-quality powder brush will give bronzers and summer blushers a flawless finish.

Dior Diorshow Liner Waterproof in Aqua Green £18.50

Estée Lauder Pure Color Gelée Powder Eyeshadow Palette in Batik Sun £35

Guerlain Terracotta Sun Serum £40 Guerlain Terra Ora Sculpting Powder £45

Estée Lauder Sumptuous Extreme Waterproof Mascara £22

Travel posters Corbis; model Anthea Simms

Dior Backstage Brushes Summer Brush £43

Dior Diorshow Mono in Parati £22.50

Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess Eau Fraiche Skinscent 100ml, £45

Tom Ford Illuminating Cheek Color in Blush Guilt £45

Dior Addict Lipstick in Passionnée £24

Available from The Beauty Apothecary and The Colour and Cosmetics Halls, Ground Floor; and harrods.com . For more information, download the June Harrods Magazine app HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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BE AU T Y S T Y LE Sisley Self Tanning Hydrating Body Skin Care 150ml, £72

Dior 1 Couleur Eye Gloss in Golden Sand £20

Ralph Lauren

Guerlain Fard Metal Eyeshadow in Cuivre Ora £54 Guerlain Terracotta Sun Brunettes SPF 15, 110ml, £30

Estée Lauder Pure Color Gelée Powder Eyeshadow Palette in Batik Sun £35

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca 100ml, £47

Le beach C’EST CHIC

Jet-skiing across the Med requires a certain assured elegance that comes from shimmering skin and a warm glow Dior Nude Tan Paradise Duo in Coral Glow £40

Guerlain Colour Lacquer in Champs-Élysées £18

CHOICE

Fine-milled, lightweight bronzing powders give a natural glow while combating shine.

Chanel Les Bieges Healthy Glow Sheer Powder in No30, £38

Dior Vernis Nail Lacquer in Princess £18 Dior Diorshow Mono in Feather £22.50

Aerin Summer Style Palette £45

Chantecaille Lip Screen Tint SPF15 in Ibiza £32

*EDITOR’S

Estée Lauder DayWear SPF 50, 50ml, £33 Tom Ford Cream Color for Eyes in Pink Haze £28

Dior Addict Gloss in Bal d’Été £22

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Available from Pharmacy, Lower Ground Floor; The Colour, Cosmetics and Perfumery Halls, Ground Floor; and harrods.com . For more information, download the June Harrods Magazine app

H A R RODS M AGA ZINE

Dior Jelly Lip Pen in (from left) Ilhabela and Copacabana £19 each

Travel posters Corbis; model Anthea Simms

Avène Very High Protection Cream SPF 50+, 50ml, £13.50

BE AU T Y What I love about London perfumer Floris’ Private Collection is that the fragrances are not initially created for the public. They are personal olfactory projects that evolve from their creators, some of which make it to market.

The latest to join the collection is Patchouli.

Inspired by the creative energy of the late 1960s, the scent opens with dreamy, milky top notes of coconut, leading in to rose, iris and, of course, patchouli. 100ml, £99

Our love affair with oud perfume is going from strength to strength, as Dolce & Gabbana demonstrates this month with the launch of not one but two fragrances with the accord at their heart. The duo, which joins the fashion house’s high-end Velvet Collection, comprises Tender Oud and Desert Oud. The former scent is a sweet version, with almond and rose notes, while the latter has a more smoky tone. 50ml, £170

Marigay McKee, Fashion and Beauty Director at Harrods, reveals her top five beauty treats for the month

When Gucci launched its most prestigious women’s fragrance, Gucci Première, to accompany its new couture line, it was only a matter of time before a male counterpart followed. Made to Measure is inspired by the allure of a perfectly cut suit. Opening with lavender to represent a cool silk lining, the scent is given a texture like the finest wool thanks to a heart of nutmeg. 90ml, £65

Nowadays we understand how damaging inflammation can be to our skin. Redness and irritation – either from stress or the environment – leave their mark in the form of micro scars.

So New York brand Kiehl’s has developed Skin Rescuer, a formulation that contains chamomile and Rosa gallica extract. These ingredients help stop skin reacting to stress signals, reducing redness and fatigue and maximising the skin’s protective barrier. 75ml, £30

Having had Queen Victoria as one of its patrons, family-run fragrance house Creed looked to her era to inspire its latest perfume – a scent dedicated to Harrods. Queen Victoria’s reign saw the opening of the world-renowned store in 1849, so Creed named the scent Millésime 1849, meaning “vintage”. The unisex accord pays tribute to this period with notes of jasmine, ylang-ylang and patchouli, anchored by vanilla, oud and musk. 75ml, £225

All products are exclusive to Harrods. Available from The Beauty Apothecary and The Perfumery Hall, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

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Patchouli leaf Getty Images; jasmine and rose iStockphoto

HIGH FIVE

NEWS

Q&A: CAROLINA HERRERA DE BAEZ

MISS MAQUILLAGE

There has been a floral explosion at Carolina Herrera HQ with the launch of the fashion house’s latest scent, CH Eau de Parfum Sublime. Here, the Head of Herrera fragrances, the founder’s daughter, explains what inspired its creation.

For every woman who has suffered a mini meltdown at airport security, this month’s column is for you.

On the way home from a recent trip to sunny climes, I forgot to check my hand luggage before trotting through security with the carefree spirit of someone who had just spent two weeks lapping up vitamin D. Moments later, I was pleading with an official, asking FROM TOP Dior him not to discard Diorskin Nude Tan an array of beauty BB Crème 30ml, £30; products: my limited- Guerlain Lingerie de Peau 30ml, £34; edition 100ml superCrème de la Mer serum, a bumper The SPF 18 Fluid Tint liquid bronzer and a 50ml, £60. Available family-size SPF cream. from The Colour and Cosmetics Halls, “At least give these treasures to your wife!” Ground Floor; and harrods.com I wailed. He declined.

I wept. But I also learned a valuable lesson: less is more, both when packing and when treating holiday skin.

Today this is easier than ever, as bronzer, moisturiser, SPF and foundation are combined in single products. At the top of the multitasking list is the BB cream, the ultimate hybrid between make-up and skincare.

Dior’s new Diorskin Nude Tan BB Crème SPF 15, for instance, offers foundation-quality coverage, a bronzed glow and tan-prolonging complex, skincare science to smooth and plump the complexion, and SPF. Phew.

Guerlain has launched Lingerie de Peau BB SPF 30 in time for summer.

The formula has been designed to be extra-lightweight. Hyaluronic acid hydrates and plumps the skin, while extracts of silk, linen and Guerlain’s exclusive colour pigments give a flawless, even complexion.

But it’s not all about the BB. For those who have made a lifetime commitment to their favourite moisturiser, try a multitasker like Crème de la Mer’s The SPF 18 Fluid Tint on top. The formula protects against UV while photonic gemstones give a radiant glow, and seaweeds and minerals intensely hydrate the skin.

And the best bit? They’re all under 100ml, Mr Airport Security Man. –By Fleur Fruzza

Youthful locks Imagine a hair-care product that does for your scalp what luxury skincare does for your skin. Sensai by Kanebo has developed the Shidenkai hair-care series, which de-ages the scalp and hair, resulting in locks that look glossy and healthy. The line – comprising the Volumising Shampoo, Volumising Conditioner and Hair Loss Treatment – does this thanks to an ingredient called t-flavanone, which promotes hair growth. The formulations also contain Koishimaru silk to maximise hydration, which staves off premature follicle ageing. From £22. Available from The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

Science update The most scientifically advanced skincare line from Lancôme is launching an addition this month: Absolue Precious Cells White. The formulation combines Absolue’s signature stem-cell breakthroughs with innovative whitening technology. Using an exclusive compound that optimises the environment of regenerative stem cells and melanocytes (cells that produce melanin pigment), Precious Cells White is able to activate the skin’s regenerative potential, resulting in a brighter, more even and smoother complexion. 50ml, £135. Available from The Beauty Apothecary and The Cosmetics Hall, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

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Diesel

Balmain Models Anthea Simms

What inspired the latest addition to the CH Eau de Parfum line, CH Sublime? There’s always something of me and my experiences in the fragrances I create. For CH Eau de Parfum Sublime, it was all about characteristics that I think make a woman irresistible. The woman that this perfume represents is elegant, feminine, witty and sensual – but she doesn’t take herself too seriously.

Why did you feel that a chypre accord best conveyed this spirit?

Chypres, to me, are a true representation of femininity. Sublime is a modern chypre. My objective was to create a contemporary fragrance with a light, vintage air by combining ingredients that would best represent the Sublime woman’s characteristics: bergamot (wit), rose (beauty), passionflower (singularity), orchid (enigma) and patchouli and leather (attraction). The rest is fantasy.

What are your top three style rules?

Don’t be a fashion victim; be curious; and be yourself.

80ml, £74. Launching on 30th June; exclusive to Harrods. Available from The Perfumery Hall, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

on summer foundations

The most

fashionable fun you can have with an iPad Download it FREE from the App Store

LIFESTYLE FOOD & WINE / DESIGN / INTERIORS

A cut ABOVE

For three generations, the Paganoni family has used Chianina beef to produce salted, air-dried bresaola in Italy’s Valtellina valley

BY PATRICK MCGUIGAN / PHOTOGRAPHER JAN BALDWIN FOOD STYLING AND RECIPES SEIKO HATFIELD

HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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their own recipe and we don’t like to say too much.”

The beef is regularly turned and massaged in the salt mixture over 15 days as moisture is drawn out and the meat is cured. It is then wrapped in netting and hung up to mature in a series of drying rooms, where the air flow, temperature and humidity are all carefully regulated.

Patience is a virtue in Valtellina, Paganoni explains, with the bresaola hung for at least two months. “Most of the job is about waiting. Time does the work for us, but we do have to check how the bresaola are developing every day and adjust the temperature and humidity. Every batch is slightly different so we have to use our experience to judge how each piece of meat is maturing.” Each piece of bresaola loses around 40% of its original weight during this slow drying process as the moisture evaporates. This helps to concentrate the flavours and intensify the colour of the meat until it achieves a deep red hue.

Best eaten in wafer-thin slices (the recommended thickness is 1mm), the texture of Paganoni’s Chianina bresaola is silky smooth and dissolves on the tongue, releasing a complex union of spices, earthy notes and deep meaty flavours.

Italians like to serve bresaola with olive oil and lemon juice, accompanied by a few shavings of crunchy Parmesan and spicy rocket leaves, but in Valtellina it is usually enjoyed on its own, with a glass of punchy local red wine made with Nebbiolo grapes. “Our goal is to exalt the flavour of the meat, not to cover it up with something else,” Paganoni says. “You should get a little bit of salt and spice, but it’s the Chianina beef that you taste most of all. It has such a pure flavour.” HMN

FROM TOP The Valtellina valley has a long history of bresaola production; Paganoni’s bresaola is hung up to mature for at least two months

Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor. Homewares available from Entertaining at Home and Luxury Dining, Second Floor. For more information, download the July Harrods Magazine app Patrick McGuigan has written for titles including Square Meal, ShortList and Fine Food Digest

Valtellina valley and hanging meat Alamy

B

eef eaters in Britain might go weak at the knees for Aberdeen Angus or Longhorn, but for Italian food lovers the ultimate steak comes from the ancient Chianina breed of cattle.

These gentle white cows, which can grow taller than 6' and weigh well over a tonne, have been grazing the plains of Tuscany for more than 2,000 years. Protected under EU law in a similar way to Parma ham, the beef is famously used to make “bistecca alla Fiorentina” – a dictionary-thick T-bone steak that is grilled over charcoal and served rare with a dash of olive oil.

Not all Chianina beef ends up in the steakhouses of Florence, however. It is also the key ingredient in a special type of charcuterie made by a small producer in the Lombardy region of northern Italy. Paganoni has been making bresaola in the Valtellina valley, high in the foothills of the Alps near the Swiss border, for more than 30 years – and the jewel in the crown of its product range is bresaola made with Chianina.

A type of salted, air-dried beef, which itself has EU protection, Bresaola della Valtellina is often made with meat imported from France and Brazil, but Paganoni is one of a handful of companies that also uses rare-breed Italian beef.

“Chianina beef is the most prestigious in Italy, and using it to make bresaola is a rarity,” says Nicola Paganoni, the third generation of his family to make bresaola.

“There is very little of this kind of meat in Italy. Production is small and we have to work closely with family-owned farms to get exactly the cuts we want. We only use topside and we make a careful selection so that we get large pieces of meat with very little fat.”

The people of Valtellina have been salting and airdrying whole muscles of beef for at least 500 years as a way of preserving their meat to see them through the region’s harsh winters. Traditionally, small farmhouses would cure beef in salt and spices and dry it next to large fires, before hanging it in an outbuilding to mature in the cool mountain air. Legend has it that bresaola was named after the big wood-burning braziers, known as “brasa”, used to dry the meat, although some argue that it derives from “brisa” – the local word for salting.

Things have moved on quite a bit from braziers and outbuildings, with Paganoni now using state-of-theart temperature- and humidity-controlled maturing rooms to do the job. “Yesterday it was snowing in the mountains and now it’s sunny – from winter to summer in one day,” he says. “It would be impossible to have a constant quality of product all year round, if we worked like they did in the past.”

The fundamentals of what makes bresaola such a special product remain the same, however. Large pieces of raw topside, weighing 8–10kg, are covered in a salt and spice mix and left to cure. Paganoni is reluctant to give his recipe away, but reveals that cinnamon, pepper and laurel all play a part. “There are other spices too, but they are a secret!” he says. “Every bresaola producer in Valtellina has

FA SHION

WHITE BEAN AND ROSEMARY SOUP WITH SEMI-DRIED BRESAOLA Serves 4 40g butter 1 tbsp olive oil 1 small onion, finely chopped 1 leek, white part only, chopped 1 garlic clove, chopped ½ tsp rosemary, chopped 1 bay leaf 500g cooked cannellini beans 500ml good beef stock 200ml milk 25g Parmesan, grated 8 slices of bresaola 4 tbsp crème fraîche 4 small sprigs of rosemary, to garnish (optional)

Serve with...

Badenhorst Secateurs 2010 £13.50

1 Heat 10g of butter and the olive oil in a large pan.

Add the onion, leek and garlic and fry for about 5 minutes, until they become translucent. Add the chopped rosemary, bay leaf and beans, and cook for a further 5 minutes.

2 Pour in the beef stock and bring to the boil, then simmer for about 40 minutes on a low heat. Add the milk and cook for a further 10 minutes. Remove the bay leaf from the soup before blending with a handheld blender. Add the Parmesan and season to taste.

3 Preheat the grill. Spread the bresaola slices on a baking sheet and grill for 2–3 minutes until they become semi-dried. Meanwhile, melt the remaining 30g of butter in a small saucepan and set aside.

4 Divide the soup into four bowls, and add a tablespoon of crème fraîche, a teaspoon of melted butter and a sprinkle of freshly ground black pepper.

Top with the dried bresaola and garnish with a sprig of rosemary. Serve with a wholesome, crusty bread.

Gien Filet Vert soup plate £19.95; Chilewich mat £27.95

16 quail eggs 4 asparagus spears 20g Parmesan 8 slices of thinly sliced bresaola Small knob of butter 2 thin slices of white country loaf 30ml mayonnaise (homemade or ready-made) A few pinches of white pepper Several leaves of red amaranth or other microherb to garnish (optional)

Serve with...

Champagne Louis Roederer Brut Premier NV £43.95

1 Preheat the oven to 200°C/400°F/Gas 6.

2 Fill a pan with boiling water (about 1 litre) and carefully add the quail eggs. Cook for 2 minutes for a runny yolk or 2 minutes and 15 seconds for a slightly harder yolk. Drain, cool under running water and remove the shells.

3 Boil 2 litres of salted water in a large pan, add the asparagus and cook for 3–5 minutes. Drain and refresh in cold water. Slice lengthways into four or five thin pieces and set aside on kitchen paper.

4 Line a baking sheet with parchment and grate Parmesan over it using a fine grater. Bake in the oven for about 5 minutes until crispy and golden.

5 Cut the bresaola into fine strips with a sharp knife. Melt the butter in a small frying pan, add the bresaola, and fry for about a minute until the colour has become lighter.

6 Toast the bread and cut into soldiers of roughly 2cm x 10cm. Lightly butter and put onto plates.

7 Put the bresaola on the toast, add mayonnaise, then place four eggs on top of each piece of toast and sprinkle with a tiny amount of white pepper.

Next, layer three asparagus slices on top of the eggs, followed by the crispy Parmesan. Decorate with a few pinches of red amaranth and serve immediately.

Villeroy & Boch Althea Nova plate £15.95; Chilewich natural and taupe napkin £24.95; Alexandre Turpault green napkin £24.95; Carrs spoon from a selection

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Credits TK Images

BRESAOLA, ASPARAGUS AND QUAIL EGGS BREAKFAST Serves 4

FA SHION

SALTIMBOCCA WITH POLENTA AND CHARD Serves 4 4 veal steaks, around 110g each 16 thin slices of bresaola 16 sage leaves 20g plain flour 16 tbsp instant polenta 60g butter 30g Parmesan 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 300g chard, roughly chopped 2 tbsp olive oil 300ml Marsala wine

Serve with...

Renato Corino Barolo 2006 £34.95

1 Place the veal steaks on a large sheet of clingfilm; lay another sheet on top and bash with a rolling pin.

Flatten the steaks to roughly 5mm thick and peel away the film. Cut each steak into quarters of 8cm x 8cm – small enough for the bresaola to wrap around. You will have 16 pieces.

2 Wrap a slice of bresaola around each piece of veal.

Place a sage leaf on top of each roll and pin in place with a wooden cocktail skewer. Place the flour into a shallow dish and lightly coat both sides of each piece of meat. Set aside.

3 Meanwhile, cook the polenta according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Season with salt and about 30g of butter. When done, add the Parmesan and some ground black pepper.

4 Melt 10g butter in a large frying pan on a medium heat. Add the garlic, fry for a few minutes and add the chard. Cover and steam for a few minutes. Add another 10g of butter, and season.

5 You will need to cook the meat in batches, or in two pans. Heat the olive oil in large frying pans on a high heat. Fry the meat for 2–3 minutes on each side.

Add the remaining butter and, once it has melted, add 150ml of Marsala to each pan. Simmer until the wine is reduced by two thirds. Serve with the buttery polenta and chard.

Portmeirion Botanic Garden dinner plate £17.95; Villeroy & Boch Farmhouse Touch glass £10.50 and table runner £29.95; Alexandre Turpault napkin £24.95

BRESAOLA CARPACCIO Serves 4 2 tbsp white wine vinegar 3 tsp sugar 1 small red onion, peeled and thinly sliced 3 tbsp small capers 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil ¼ tsp sea salt Two handfuls of rocket and watercress 16–20 thin slices of bresaola 2 tbsp flat-leaf parsley 20g Parmesan, roughly shaved

Serve with...

Elena Walch Pinot Nero 2010 £18.95

1 Combine the vinegar and sugar in a small bowl.

Marinate the onion slices for 15–30 minutes then remove, lightly squeeze and set aside. Reserve the pickling liquid.

2 Dry the capers using kitchen paper. Heat the oil in a small frying pan, add the capers and fry on a medium to low heat until they open up and become crispy. Drain the capers on kitchen paper. Pour the oil into a small heatproof bowl and set aside to cool.

3 Combine the pickling vinegar and cooled oil, then add the salt and whisk well to make a dressing. Put all the leaves in a large bowl, mix in half the dressing and lightly toss. Reserve the other half of the dressing.

4 Fan out the bresaola slices on plates, allowing 4–5 slices per person. Arrange the leaves in the centre.

Sprinkle with the red onion pickles, parsley, capers and Parmesan shavings and season with black pepper.

Drizzle with the remaining dressing and serve immediately.

Credits TK Images

Note: The dressing can be kept for a week, and fried capers will keep for three days in an airtight container.

Carrs Lotus knife £189 and fork £449; Villeroy & Boch Farmhouse Touch plate £15.50; Alexandre Turpault napkin £24.95 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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POP TARTS Although baking is clearly an important parent-child bonding exercise, we all know that cooking with children is really just an excuse to get messy and eat cake.

The Baking Tree produces kits designed to help teach young chefs how to bake and assemble cake pops. Each one comes with all the necessary tools and ingredients, as well as easy-to-follow instructions.

The kits include traffic-light or flower-shaped pops and polkadot decorations. From £16.95.

Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor

RIB-EYE STEAK WITH WASABI BUTTER Recipe by The Wasabi Company

Though wasabi root has been cultivated in Japan for thousands of years, it is notoriously tricky to grow, preferring shade, flowing water and mild temperatures.

Farmers James Harper and Tom Amery took on the challenge of cultivating Wasabia japonica in the UK and, in 1994, they achieved it when they founded The Wasabi Company. The duo supplies the root to Michelin-starred restaurants such as Le Gavroche and The Ledbury, and now the Food Halls. So how does fresh wasabi compare to powdered? “The heat of fresh wasabi dissipates on the tongue, leaving a sweet, moreish aftertaste,” Harper says.

IN-Q CAFÉ For afternoon tea with a Middle Eastern flavour, In-Q is the perfect place. As the only Qatari café in London, In-Q serves a three-tier platter centred around the country’s star ingredient: the Medjool date. The plump and sticky fruit was once reserved for royalty in Qatar, but today it is used to break fasts at Ramadan and is served on special occasions. Afternoon tea at In-Q includes marzipan-filled dates, macaroons, confit date ice cream and pastries, all served with a cup of traditional Qatari coffee. In-Q Café, Second Floor

Tout de sweet Those nostalgic for old-fashioned English candies will appreciate Penny’s Sweets.

Collect enough jars, and your shelves could end up looking like the tuck shop where you spent all your pocket money. The halal-certified favourites include bon bons, sherbet fruits, chocolate eclairs and everpopular lollipops. From £5.50 for 180g; exclusive to Harrods. Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor; and Candy Store, Third Floor

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(Serves 2) 2– 4 tsp freshly grated wasabi 50g butter, softened slightly 1 tbsp olive oil 2 rib-eye steaks (180–200g each; 2–3cm thick) 2 tbsp high-quality mayonnaise 1 small clove of garlic, crushed 2 handfuls of watercress, to serve 1. Beat 1–2 teaspoons of the wasabi into the butter. Roll into a barrel shape and wrap in cling film. Refrigerate for 30 minutes, or freeze for 10 minutes.

2. Heat the oil in a heavy frying pan until smoking hot. Season the steaks, then fry them, undisturbed, for 2–3 minutes on each side. Cook a little less for rare, a little more for well done. Remove the steaks and allow them to rest on a warm plate covered tightly in foil.

3. Whilst the steaks are resting, mix the mayonnaise with the garlic. Add more freshly grated wasabi to taste.

4. Serve the steak with a slice of wasabi butter melting on top, accompanied by watercress and freshly cooked chips with wasabi aioli dipping sauce.

Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor

10 minutes with

Joseph Joseph Collapsible colanders, foldable chopping boards and adjustable rolling pins are light-bulb moments in kitchenware design. The brothers behind the brand discuss their bright (and not so bright) ideas

BY AMY BROOMFIELD / PHOTOGRAPHER CHRIS TURNER

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Q&A

How do you come up with your ideas?

Antony: We have a design team and together we identify gaps in the market, particularly areas where we feel functionality could be improved.

Which is your favourite item in the range and why?

Richard: The Chop2Pot, a foldable chopping board.

It’s what we’re all about – it ticks all the boxes for us.

It’s a good-looking product, but it’s also functional.

Antony: My favourite geeky design fact is that each chopping board is folded 10,000 times by a machine in the factory to perfect the hinges.

THIS PAGE, FROM TOP

Photos this page With thanks to Joseph Joseph PR

Joseph Joseph Index 100 chopping boards £79.95 and Chop2Pot £19.95; OPPOSITE PAGE Joseph Joseph 100 Collection Nest £109

Known for designing practical kitchen equipment, twin brothers Richard and Antony Joseph weren’t always the problem-solvers they are today. They started out making decorative glassware, which didn’t sell quite as well as they had hoped. It was on a trip to New York that they were struck by a “eureka” moment, as they like to call it, at the Museum of Modern Art. A foldable chopping board designed by British inventor Mark Sanders was on display; the simple and practical design inspired the start of Joseph Joseph. Today the awardwinning brand is known for clever and stylish kitchen solutions you might not think you need until you try one and wonder what you did without it. Among their range is the Index, a series of chopping boards labelled for specific food groups to avoid cross-contamination, neat collapsible weighing scales and a rolling pin with changeable rubber ends so bakers can roll dough to an exact thickness. The new 100 Collection is made up of classic Joseph Joseph designs redefined in a smart new black and silver palette.

Would you ever branch out to other areas like furniture or technology?

Antony: We wouldn’t like to say...

Other than your own products, what would you say is the most useful kitchen tool? And overall tool outside the kitchen?

Antony: The wooden spoon. It’s a classic that has withstood the test of time. Outside of the kitchen, anything by Dyson or Apple.

Richard: The Kenwood food mixer. It’s so well designed.

What design do you think is not so well thought out (kitchen or otherwise)?

Antony: I’d like to see the ironing board redesigned.

There must be a better way to use and store it.

Did you have to master any cooking skills before designing for your brand?

Richard: We’re not the best in the kitchen, so no. We do have product testers, and we consult people who cook regularly before any product goes to launch.

Which designers do you admire and why?

Richard: I worked for Dyson when I first graduated from university. It was a fantastic place to learn first-hand how innovation, design and business can work in harmony.

Antony: I think we would say that we admire designers who have set up and run their own brands from scratch. Like Rich said, James Dyson would be an obvious one, but also Paul Smith, Steve Jobs, Dieter Rams – there are too many to mention.

How do you switch off?

Richard: If I’m not working, I try to get out of London.

Antony: When I’m not travelling on business, my weekends are spent with my family.

Available from The Gourmet Cookshop, Second Floor. For more information, download the June Harrods Magazine app HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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HARRODS FURNITURE, HOME AND TECHNOLOGY SALE From Saturday 25th May, enjoy up to 25% off furniture, and from 15th June receive up to 50% off homewares and technology

Find savings on everything from books to beds, china to cameras across our Second and Third Floors. The furniture sale includes brands such as Clive Christian, Duresta, Ligne Roset and Roche Bobois; there are beds from Vi-Spring, Duxiana and Savoir. Our home sale features bed linens from Yves Delorme, china from Wedgwood, silverware from Carrs and appliances from KitchenAid. And in Harrods Technology, savings can be found on cameras, TVs, tablets and headphones, among other cutting-edge products.

WALPOLE MAYFAIR Arlington Street, SW1 Three-bedroom apartments providing the ultimate in sophisticated living are available in a sought-after development in Mayfair. Designed in a contemporary style, the apartments EVI ½RMWLIH XS E LMKL WXERHEVH [MXL FIWTSOI JYVRMXYVI ERH FIRI½X JVSQ E LSYV GSRGMIVKI WIVZMGI ;EPTSPI 1E]JEMV MW ER E[EVH [MRRMRK ERH TVIWXMKMSYW HIZIPSTQIRX F] 3PMZIV &YVRW ERH [EW SRGI XLI LSQI SJ &VMXEMR´W ½VWX 4VMQI 1MRMWXIV Sir Robert Walpole.

Leasehold approximately 999 years remaining Price: £11,500,000 020 7409 9346 jennifer.marwick@harrodsestates.com

www.walpolemayfair.com

H AR R O DSEST AT ES.CO M

QUEENSBERRY PLACE South Kensington, SW7 % WIZIR FIHVSSQ WXYGGS JVSRXIH TIVMSH XS[R LSYWI GSZIVMRK WU JX WU Q LEW FIIR VIJYVFMWLIH MR E GSRXIQTSVEV] WX]PI 8LI TVSTIVX] LEW E JX Q HMRMRK VSSQ SR XLI ½VWX ¾SSV EPSRK [MXL E PMFVEV] QIHME VSSQ K]QREWMYQ WEYRE VSSQ QEWXIV FIHVSSQ [MXL HVIWWMRK room and en-suite bathroom, four further bedrooms and X[S EHHMXMSREP WXEJJ FIHVSSQW 5YIIRWFIVV] 4PEGI MW located in the heart of South Kensington, moments from the Natural History Museum and the Victoria and Albert Museum. Ideally located for Chelsea and Knightsbridge and [MXLMR [EPOMRK HMWXERGI SJ ,]HI 4EVO XLMW [SYPH QEOI ER immaculate family residence.

Freehold 020 7225 6508 shaun.drummond@harrodsestates.com

/2-+,87&6-(+) 3**-') &6314832 63%( 032(32 7; )6 8

1%=*%-6 3**-') 4%6/ 0%2) 032(32 ; 5* 8

HA RRODSESTATES. C OM

U LT I M A T E

The ultimate MAP REFERENCE Tucked between the Tuileries Garden and Rue de la Paix, Place Vendôme is the Paris home of France’s most salubrious brands, and has a kudos of its own PHOTOGRAPHER

CHRIS TURNER

Who’d have thought that real estate plans first drawn up in 1702 would inspire the world’s most famous fragrance flacon? Place Vendôme saw a lot of action before it became a design icon. The 1792 revolutionaries tearing down the statue of the king, for example, could not have dreamt that in little more than 100 years, Coco Chanel would be gazing into the square from her Ritz balcony. From there, she concluded that the elongated octagon was the very shape to stop the bottle of her luxurious new fragrance. Similarly, even she, with a foresight of fashion that went way beyond genius, could not have guessed that 1987 would see the launch of the Première watch, distinctively eight sided and very, very Chanel.

In a glorious 2013 update, the Première sees the Place Vendôme profile revisited once again, this time in pavéd diamonds with a matching bracelet reminiscent of the signature 2.55 bag. Was Mademoiselle Chanel being uncannily prescient when she said that fashion doesn’t just exist in dresses but also on the street? £168,000. Available as part of a collection from The Fine Watch Room and The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor.

For more information, download the June Harrods Magazine app

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