Harrods Magazine March 2015

MAGAZINE DIRECTOR OF CREATIVE MARKETING DEBORAH BEE DIRECTOR OF CREATIVE OPERATIONS BETH HODDER ART DIRECTOR BARNEY PICKARD PUBLISHER DAWN HALL

EDITORIAL EDITOR JAN MASTERS ACTING ASSOCIATE EDITOR GUY WOODWARD FASHION FEATURES EDITOR LINDSAY MACPHERSON LIFESTYLE EDITOR AMY BROOMFIELD CONTRIBUTING WRITERS LEWIS FIRTH, MARIA MILANO ASSISTANT BEAUTY EDITOR REBECCA BAIO CHIEF SUB-EDITORS LISA HILLMAN, NICOLETTE THOMPSON SENIOR SUB-EDITORS CAROLINE HUNT, JO MATTOCK SUB-EDITOR MARNIE CLARKE

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117,776 Period: 1st January 2014 to 30th June 2014

EDITOR’S LE T TER

MARCH 2015

Fluttering fabrics. Watercolour prints. Demure silhouettes.

Main photo and cover image Katja Mayer

This season, fashion looks East to bring us some of spring’s most delicate yet dramatic pieces. Take Antonio Berardi’s precision-cut tunics and skirts in jade satin, and Erdem’s ethereal dresses with foliage-fabulous embroidery, perfect for blossom-filled days. Japan has proved an inspiration for Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen – think samurai shapes and structured lantern-sleeved dresses. Indeed, the Land of the Rising Sun was a favourite theme of the late McQueen. One of his (many) standout designs was a black silk kimono jacket that starred in his AW03 “Scanners” show. In fact, the original invitation was illustrated with printed CAT scans of the designer’s brain. And what a brain.

As the exhibition Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty opens at the Victoria and Albert Museum this month, we celebrate his genius and the extraordinary body of work that has become his legacy. We’re also stepping out of the ordinary with the exclusive new collection for Harrods Shoe Heaven. These are the kind of shoes that dreams are made of, from Casadei’s emerald crocodile stilettos adorned with a crystal brooch, to Dolce & Gabbana’s gold-filigree fairy-tale slippers decorated with amethysts and tourmalines. It seems fitting, then, surrounded by so much that is beautiful, to enjoy delicious delicacies from the Food Halls before you’re beaten to it by a flock of origami birds set to descend upon the store for the Stealing Beauty event, which focuses on the provenance of fine foods. And to help you create your own tea ceremony, we sample some of the best leaves. Who could resist Dancing Dragon from Darjeeling? Or perhaps you will be tempted by the rare Snow Mist from the Happy Valley tea garden. It surely embodies the poetic nature of spring.

Jan Masters Editor

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CONTENTS

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March 2015

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NEW THIS MONTH 33 TOP 20 Launches, special offers and events for March 37 ZEITGEIST What everyone’s talking about this month 42 FIT FOR A PRINCESS Since leaving drama school four years ago, Lily James has never been out of work. But her latest role, as Disney’s Cinderella, is about to propel her into the A-list

FASHION COVER

Photographer KATJA MAYER; Fashion Editor VICTORIA GAIGER; Hair KEIICHIRO HIRANO at David Artists using Bumble and Bumble; Make-up LIZ DAXAUER at Caren using Shu Uemura; Nails DAISY HASSAN using Dior Vernis Les Violets Hypnotiques; Model LYDIA GRAHAM at Models1 wearing Erdem dress £4,475 and Kurt Geiger shoes £95

47 SPORTS MAX Traditional sportswear is being turned on its head as high fashion increasingly harnesses athletic references, and ready-to-wear designers make inroads into activewear 51 ORIGIN OF THE SPECIES Alexander McQueen transformed fashion with his often discomfiting take on human nature. Now, in the exhibition Savage Beauty, the V&A honours the designer’s dark genius 54 TREND WATCH: LEATHER JACKETS Tired of spinning your wheels? Slip into something that delivers instant attitude 56 WOMENSWEAR NEWS The Fabergé Rococo collection; La Mania’s art-inspired SS15 gowns; easy luxe from Tomas Maier; a few of fashion designer Maria Grachvogel’s favourite things 61 LOST IN LACE Fashion’s love affair with lace finds fresh expression in this season’s feminine dresses and delicate separates 62 WOMENSWEAR NEWS Bold Sicilian florals from Dolce & Gabbana; MCM’s bejewelled Romantic Chandelier clutch; Chinoiserie-inspired gowns from Antonio Berardi; Hermès jewellery designer Pierre Hardy 65 STEP OUT OF THE ORDINARY The new exclusive collection for Harrods Shoe Heaven has arrived, and it has serious star quality 71 CHILDRENSWEAR NEWS Vince Kids; The Disney Bibbidi Bobbidi Boutique’s Cinderella experience; Courage & Kind’s debut collection; ’70s-inspired Gucci childrenswear; bunny shoes from Charlotte Olympia 72 MENSWEAR NEWS Christopher Kane’s trompe l’oeil T-shirts; Bottega Veneta Pour Homme Extrême; a limited-edition Villeret watch from Blancpain; Style Rules serves up a seasonal wardrobe reshuffle

74 THREE WAYS WITH COLOUR Menswear reveals its lighter side as tailoring teams with the bold and bright 76 TOKYO STORY Watercolour prints, demure silhouettes and delicate layering.

Fashion looks to the East for elegant inspiration 86 ATTITUDE Fashion is riffing on rude-boy style codes, with slick suits, slim ties and trilbies. Just add swagger

BEAUTY 95 TAKE IT TO THE TOP New spring styles are inventive and unexpected. Twist, tie or tame hair for an instant fresh take 101 BEAUTY NEWS Dr Sebagh’s Instant V Lift; the Iluminage Skin Smoothing Laser; YSL’s Volupté Tint-in-Oil; Miss Heaven Scent evokes memories 102 HIGH FIVE Editor Jan Masters reveals her top beauty treats for the month

FOOD, INTERIORS & LIFESTYLE 105 HIGH TEA Some of the world’s finest teas hail from Darjeeling, where one company is nurturing historically important estates 110 RICH PICKINGS Floral teas with sweet accompaniments offer perfect refreshment 112 FOOD NEWS Harrods Strawberry Jam; lamb from Philip Warren Butchers; Niasca Portofino produce; perfect seasonings for roasts 114 INSPIRED TASTES The world’s finest delicacies share two key characteristics: impeccable provenance and irresistible quality 123 INTERIORS NEWS Wedgwood’s Renaissance Red china; a Scandi-style chair from Linley; Jonathan Saunders for The Rug Company; an interview with Devialet CEO Quentin Sannié; Cookshop events 125 LIFESTYLE NEWS Four-wheel lambskin luggage from Beretta; Astley Clarke’s collection benefitting children’s charity Theirworld; the latest BlackBerry handsets from Porsche Design; new cookbooks 130 MY STYLE: NATALIE HARTLEY The fashion director of Glamour magazine reveals the secrets behind her look HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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3H\UJOLZ ZWLJPHS VăLYZ HUK L]LU[Z MVY 4HYJO 1. Van Cleef & Arpels jewellery Using an Asian symbol of protection, the kite, the Cerfs-Volants collection features motifs of flight and ribbons. Earrings, price on request.

The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor 2. Paul Smith Black Label Miami’s South Beach influenced Paul Smith’s Art Deco SS15 Black Label line, which includes silk pyjama-style suits, pleated skirts and slip dresses. Shirt £345 and trousers £305. Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor 3. Gucci Lady Lock bag The bamboo-cane-handled bag from Gucci in jade alligator skin takes its cue from ’50s sophistication. £15,630; exclusive to Harrods.

Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor 4. Alexander McQueen Heroine bag Henri Matisse’s Blue Nude gets a fashion makeover for SS15 in the form of a Heroine bag with a cobalt-blue graphic print. £1,895.

Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor 5. Armani Sì eau de toilette A bright interpretation of the original scent, Sì eau de toilette fuses fruity notes with freesia and rose de Mai. 100ml, £76; exclusive to Harrods. The Perfumery Hall, Ground Floor 6. Prada SS15 Patchwork has been given a new lease of life at Prada with antique-inspired fabrics pieced together in knee-length dresses and coats.

Coat £4,545. Superbrands, First Floor 7. Fendi Kids Fendi “bag bug” motifs add an element of fun to the children’s line for SS15. Sweater £180 and trousers from a selection. Children’s Designer Apparel, Fourth Floor 8. Frédérique Constant watches In support of the World Heart Federation, Frédérique Constant has designed four ladies’ timepieces in rose gold. Watch £3,495.

The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor 9. MAC Ultimate collection Sheer Mystery Powder minimises shine with its lightweight yet hard-working formula. £40. The Colour Hall, Ground Floor 10. Made to Measure event From 20th to 22nd March, Harrods will be celebrating made to measure. Order a tailored suit, design your own brogues or personalise accessories. Menswear, Lower Ground Floor and Ground Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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11. Graff Diamond on Diamond The new collection from Graff presents a masterclass in craftsmanship with a diamond swirl set atop more jewels. Necklace £15,000.

The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor 12. Sandro womenswear The Parisians do chic dressing and romance like no one else; the new Sandro collection combines both embroidered and sequinned detailing. Jacket £450; exclusive to Harrods.

Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor 13. Marc Jacobs Daisy Sorbet Edition Adding to the cute style of Marc Jacobs’ Daisy, the Sorbet Edition puts a refreshing spin on the floral scent. 50ml, £52.

The Perfumery Hall, Ground Floor 14. Burberry Prorsum SS15 Inspired by novelist and traveller Bruce Chatwin, Burberry Prorsum menswear takes its cues from vintage book covers – hats are floppy and pockets large enough for maps.

Suit jacket £895, denim jacket £595 and trousers £495. Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor 15. Monica Vinader Diva collection Reflecting graphic architecture, the Diva range explores symmetry and shape, delineated in pavé diamonds. Rings £160 each. Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor 16. Harrods Cash Reward For every 500 Rewards points you earned by shopping at Harrods in 2014, a £5 Cash Reward has been credited to your Rewards card, making it prime time for a visit.

17. Chanel Rouge Coco lipstick Expanding its range of creamy, rich lip colours, Chanel introduces new shades of nude, orange, pink, red and plum. £26. The Colour and Cosmetics Halls, Ground Floor 18. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore The latest addition to the Royal Oak Offshore family, with a forged carbon case and a sapphire crystal case back, pays homage to its indestructible reputation. £30,500.

The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor 19. Valentino bag Exotic skins and classic shades combine in a range of elegant bags from Valentino in five colours. From £13,000; exclusive to Harrods. Luxury Accessories, Ground Floor 20. Mother’s Day hamper For Mother’s Day, the hampers team has put together a box that includes Champagne, candles and chocolate. £150; exclusive to Harrods. Food Halls, Ground Floor

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PEOPLE & PLACES in the air in March BY

Ben McMahon

JEWELLERY Shaun Leane, designer “I was the Jekyll and Hyde of the jewellery world,” says Shaun Leane, summing up life in his early twenties, when he would design high-end jewellery in Hatton Garden by day, then spend evenings creating avant-garde showpieces for Alexander McQueen. Leane was a close friend of the late designer of the brand, and credits McQueen with playing a pivotal role in his career. “Lee took me out of my comfort zone,” Leane says. “He gave me a creative platform. When I worked with him my identity was born.” The duo fused fashion and fine jewellery, and during their decadelong partnership produced silver mouthpieces, skeletonised corsets and body armour. When the Victoria and Albert Museum asked Leane to collate pieces for the upcoming Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty exhibition, it proved a catalyst for his latest collection. Quill is a series of silver designs that recall, among other works, the Coiled corset, from AW99. For collectors, Leane has reinterpreted five of his landmark showpieces using precious stones. A single Tusk earring takes inspiration from the SS96 Hunger collection, while two exclusive pendants that echo the Star and Moon headpiece from the AW07 show are standouts. “I feel I’ve come full circle,” he says. “It’s been a wonderful opportunity to reflect on the work we did together.” Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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ZEI T GEIST Jennifer Hayley’s The Nether

THEATRE The Nether

In a brilliantly conceived vision of life in 2050, US playwright Jennifer Hayley explores an internet that has evolved into a virtual reality called the Nether. There, in cyberspace, a ruthless businessman has created a Victorian-style country estate where users can act out unspeakable evil.

A determined detective investigates – but is a crime committed when the victims aren’t actually real?

Until 25th April at The Duke of York’s Theatre

BOOK Charles James: Designer in Detail

FILM The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel

by Timothy A Long

In 2012, audiences flocked to The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel, a comedy about British retirees’ new lives in India. Now, Dames Judi Dench and Maggie Smith, plus Bill Nighy, are back for part two. Their predicament?

The hotel has just one vacant room but two prospective guests, forcing soon-to-be-married owner Sonny (Dev Patel) to choose between an American man, Guy (Richard Gere), and an Englishwoman, Lavinia (Tamsin Greig).

The demands of a traditional Indian wedding alongside Sonny’s plans for hotel expansion ensure plenty of humorous twists and turns.

Opens on 27th February in the UK

Christian Dior called him “the greatest talent of my generation” and his dazzling creations were sought out by celebrities and socialites on both sides of the Atlantic. Charles James, “America’s first couturier”, emerged from a genteel Edwardian childhood in England to conquer the fashion world in New York, London and Paris. Now, his brilliant, innovative techniques are celebrated in fashion historian Timothy A Long’s book, the first in a new series exploring the works of great designers. The detailed illustrations and sumptuous photographs reinforce James’ philosophy: “The essence of chic is to appear extravagantly lovely.” £30. Available from Harrods Books & Cards, Second Floor

The all-star cast of The Second Best Exotic Marigold Hotel Northern Ballet’s production of The Great Gatsby

BALLET The Great Gatsby Channelling Jazz Age decadence, Northern Ballet’s adaptation of F Scott Fitzgerald’s novel is a feast for the eyes. At its heart is the enigmatic Jay Gatsby, the charismatic millionaire whose lavish parties come to life with wild abandon thanks to the captivating choreography of artistic director David Nixon. The powerfully moving story of the doomed romance between Gatsby and the beautiful – but married – Daisy Buchanan adds to the period spectacle which, with its Chanel-inspired costumes, is every bit as intoxicating as the Champagne that flows freely in this heady era. From 24th to 28th March at Sadler’s Wells

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ZEI T GEIST Duck feather dress by Alexander McQueen

CONCERT Dame Evelyn Glennie The first musician in history to gain celebrity status as a solo percussionist, Dame Evelyn Glennie has performed to audiences worldwide and enjoyed a star turn at the opening ceremony of the London 2012 Olympic Games. Here, she is joined by the Isis Ensemble for a mixed programme that gives full rein to her genius. Alongside a special arrangement of Mussorgsky’s Pictures at an Exhibition and Rachmaninov’s Prelude in C sharp minor, there are works involving marimba and vibraphone. For newcomers to Dame Evelyn’s joyous sound, it’s a welcome introduction.

30th March at Queen Elizabeth Hall, Southbank Centre Dame Evelyn Glennie at Liverpool’s DaDaFest

EXHIBITION

Alexander McQueen: Savage Beauty Celebrating Alexander McQueen’s enduring legacy, Savage Beauty expresses the theatre of his unpredictable shows. More than 200 of the late designer’s works give expression to his broad range of themes, from the outlandish to the nature-inspired. Signature designs such as the “bumster” trouser and the kimono jacket are featured, while one of the highlights is a holographic image – which stunned a 2006 Paris audience – of Kate Moss in a revealing organza gown. Accompanying the exhibition is a new publication on Alexander McQueen, exploring the designer’s art through a series of essays. From 14th March to 19th July at the Victoria and Albert Museum

Directed by Kenneth Branagh, Disney’s retelling of the classic fairy tale gives us a dream cast in a big-budget production.

Young Ella (Downton Abbey’s Lily James), longing to escape the cruel treatment of her stepmother Lady Tremaine (Cate Blanchett), falls in love with a handsome stranger (Richard Madden of Game of Thrones). Ella’s chances of seeing him again seem dashed, however, when Tremaine forbids her from going to the palace ball.

Time for fairy godmother (Helena Bonham Carter) to come to the rescue? Opens on 27th March in the UK

Kenneth Branagh’s lavish production of Cinderella

OPERA Madama Butterfly

@V\UN IYPKL *PV *PV :HU ¶ )\[[LYÅ` ¶ OHZ ILLU JY\LSS` KLJLP]LK -VY `LHYZ ZOL»Z ^HP[LK MVY [OL YL[\YU VM OLY ILSV]LK O\ZIHUK \UH^HYL OL OHZ KLZLY[LK OLY HUK THYYPLK HU (TLYPJHU ^VTHU 0U [OPZ Z[`SPZO WYVK\J[PVU L]VRPUN 1HWHU»Z L_V[PJ WHZ[ VU HU LWPJ ZJHSL ZVWYHUV 2YPZ[PUL 6WVSHPZ ZPUNZ [OL LTV[PVUHS HYPHZ [OH[ JOHY[ [OL \UYH]LSSPUN VM PUUVJLUJL 7YLWHYL [V IL Z^LW[ H^H` I` [OL ILH\[` VM VUL VM 7\JJPUP»Z TVZ[ WLYMVYTLK ^VYRZ From 20th March to 11th April at the Royal Opera House

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Kristine Opolais as Cio-Cio-San in Madama Butterfly Dame Evelyn Glennie Steve Goudie; Madama Butterfly ©ROH/Mike Hoban

FILM Cinderella

I N T E RV I E W

Fit for a P INCESS Since leaving drama school four years ago, Lily James has never been out of work.

But her latest role, as Disney’s Cinderella, is about to propel her into the A-list

I

n a mid-calf-length off-white Gucci dress with a matching oversized jacket nonchalantly slung around her shoulders, Lily James is sitting opposite, delighting in the telling of a recent pinch-me moment. “I was sitting on the front row at the Marchesa show next to [US Vogue Editor] Anna Wintour. That alone was completely nerve-racking, but luckily I’d had a couple of glasses of wine beforehand to steady myself.

Then, during the show, she leaned over and whispered in my ear, ‘That should be your Cinderella premiere dress.’

I just couldn’t believe it. It was a very surreal moment.”

One suspects the unassuming and well-mannered 25-year-old is on the cusp of becoming more accustomed to such things. This month, the actress best known for playing Lady Rose in Downton Abbey is set to become a global superstar following the release of the Kenneth Branagh Disney juggernaut Cinderella. James plays the downtrodden yet brave heroine, and is utterly captivating.

The role will mean that her face is on billboards and children’s lunchboxes worldwide.

Why does she think she was chosen over other actresses, including Emma Watson, Margot Robbie and Saoirse Ronan, who were also considered for the part?

“I felt like I really understood what Branagh wanted; I knew what he was getting at,” she explains. “He wanted Ella to have a generous nature, to be courageous and kind, and have her beliefs rooted in truth. I thought this was touching and poignant – and I think this maybe came across in the auditions.”

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Disney decided to remake Cinderella after Alice in Wonderland (2010) grossed a staggering $1 billion at the box office worldwide. No pressure there, then. “I try not to take much notice of things like box-office ratings and how much money films make because it can be dangerous and paralysing. It’s now out of my control… but I really hope it does well!” she laughs.

This is pretty much a given; the Cinderella trailer alone has had 45 million views online – meaning she will soon become very, very famous. “The scrutiny is something I’ve struggled with. I will definitely have to learn to get used to it. It’s going to be strange seeing the ‘me’ presented to the world compared to the ‘me’ that I know.” She pauses.

“I think it’s about having a thick skin while also learning to protect yourself. I have friends who are much better known than I am and they still find it strange; I’m not sure you ever get used to it.”

Those friends may well include her boyfriend, former Doctor Who actor Matt Smith. Famously private, he’s perhaps the one who’s advised her to keep schtum about their relationship (“I’ve learned it’s better to keep that stuff under lock and key,” she says). She is, however, more forthcoming about her upbringing. Growing up the youngest of three (she has two brothers), she comes from a theatrical family. Grandmother was the American actress Helen Horton, the voice of Mother in Alien, while dad was also an actor and musician (he died when she was 18). Her uncle Peter, meanwhile, puts on pantomimes in Brighton – with a rather interesting twist. X

Portrait Susanne Nusbaumer

BY

Credits TK Images

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“They’re what you might call ‘mucky pantomimes,’” she giggles. “They have names like Pussy in Boots and Sinderella.

Until recently, he was trying to get me to star in one. I was like, ‘I don’t think so.’ Imagine – I’d get into trouble!”

Though James was a naturally girly child, her brothers toughened her up. “They made me pretty resilient when it comes to boys – all that teasing and fighting.” Still, she was always singing and dancing – “annoying everyone, basically” – so, at age 13, the Arts Educational School, a boarding school in Tring, was a happy fit. “My mum gave me all her The Twins at St Clare’s books, so I was desperate to go to boarding school. I wanted to have midnight feasts and escape to the sea in the middle of the night.

In the end, I had the best time at my school. I was very independent and couldn’t wait to be a grown-up.”

Today, however, her hectic lifestyle means she needs her mum more than ever. “Boarding school made me used to dealing with stuff on my own, but I’m more and more reliant on her the older I get. Tomorrow morning, she’s helping me sort out my room in Peckham [including a wardrobe filled with clothes and bags by Chloé and Miu Miu].”

There’s not an inch of wiggle room in her schedule.

Having just wrapped the imaginatively titled Pride and Prejudice and Zombies (a version of Jane Austen’s classic with a few ghouls thrown in for fun), she’s off to Lithuania to start work on Harvey Weinstein’s TV version of War and Peace: “I play Natasha [the female lead], which I also can’t quite believe. I’m halfway through the book at the moment, plus I’m listening to the audio version.” Straight after that, she’ll be back on the set of Downton. “I’ve got a packed year.”

Still, she’s at that stage in her career where she readily hoovers up advice. “When I’d just started on Downton, I asked Dame Maggie Smith if I was doing all right. She looked and me and said, ‘Darling, how should I know?

Just do it!’ I thought that was very good. Then, when we were filming Cinderella, Helena [Bonham Carter, who plays the Fairy Godmother] said something completely brilliant. We had three weeks of night shoots, which are really tough because you start work at 5pm and wrap at 7am the next day. You feel horribly jet-lagged. I was filming outside wearing this tiny, thin dress in the middle of winter. I was tired and cold, and before I knew it I was having a bit of a wobble. I told Helena and she said, ‘Oh, Lily, one must have a breakdown at least once a week because it reminds them we’re human.’ That really helped and gave me licence to cry every now and then.”

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CLOCKWISE FROM TOP

James with Richard Madden as Prince Charming in Cinderella; filming series four of Downton Abbey; with Downton co-star Michelle Dockery; an evening out in February 2014; arriving at the ball in Cinderella

If James could replicate anyone’s career path, it would be that of her Wrath of the Titans co-star, Gone Girl actress Rosamund Pike. “I like how she seems to have done it at a manageable pace,” James says. “I love Amy Adams, too, but she doesn’t seem to ever stop. I want to have a life besides working, and to someday have a family of my own.” Let’s hope that includes a daughter. After all, her mummy will have been known as Cinderella. “I know,” says James. “But I bet she’ll be like, ‘Mum, that is so embarrassing’.” Hardly.

Her enchanting portrayal of one of the best-loved fairytale characters means she’s already given her child-to-be a pinch-me moment of her own. HMN Cinderella opens on 13th March in the UK Niki Browes is associate editor of InStyle Magazine

Downton Abbey film still Rex; Lily James, bottom and far left Getty

“I had the best time at my boarding school. It made me used to dealing with stuff. But I’m more and more reliant on my mum the older I get”

THE LATEST LOOKS FROM THE INTERNATIONAL CATWALKS

Alexandre Vauthier Mathieu Cesar

Alexandre Vauthier dress ÂŁ3,650

SPORTS MAX

Traditional sportswear is being turned on its head as high fashion increasingly harnesses athletic references, and ready-to-wear designers make inroads into activewear BY

FA SHION LEFT McQueen in 1997; BELOW LEFT The It’s a

Ostrich-feather dress, Voss 2001

coat hangers there was a crow-feather cape and a tailored silk frock coat with a thorn print. He shuffled around the room, but those blue eyes followed my every move. His second show (Nihilism, SS94) featured rubberised dresses splattered with blood and mud, and low-slung trousers, nicknamed “bumsters”, which cemented his notoriety in the press from The Sun to The Daily Telegraph. His love of historicism, military styles, fetishism, dark romance and anarchy created a potent cocktail in a fashion era dominated by graphic modernism; later, that incongruous mix was to define the Alexander McQueen brand.

McQueen’s business grew rapidly. He surrounded himself with a tight-knit circle including Sam Gainsbury, show producer; creative director Katy England; menswear stylist Alister Mackie; hair supremo Guido Paulo; make-up artist Val Garland; and designer Sarah Burton – who was to become his successor. As a leader, McQueen knew no limits and pushed his team to extremes. The shows were theatrical productions that included walking on water, skating and tightropes, the likes of which the fashion world had never witnessed before.

A true virtuoso, McQueen knew how to “compose”, create suspense, then deflate those extremes in a millisecond. His shows famously ended with a cheesy song and a wave, before his audience was jettisoned back into the real world. His prowess soon attracted the attention of LVMH, and in 1996 he became the creative director of Parisian fashion house Givenchy, where he infused haute couture with his own anarchic vision.

In person, McQueen came across as private and shrewd, with a restless mind. On interviewing him for Vogue at the time of the PPR investment in the brand in 2000 (the contract that made McQueen a wealthy man and enabled the business to grow globally), he proved both bullish and proud. To celebrate the deal, he had treated himself to a huge tattoo of his name in a gothic script across his stomach. He ordered a cheese and Marmite sandwich in a café near his Islington HQ, before taking me to an advertising campaign shoot (Voss 2001). A model wearing a diaphanous chiffon dress was being submerged in a water tank to give the appearance of a floating jellyfish – which was being photographed by Steven Klein.

McQueen was a committed radical. “I’ve done religion, sex and death,” he said referring to the great themes X

Shaun Leane for Alexander McQueen silver and Tahitian pearl neckpiece, Voss 2001

“I met Lee at a Vogue Christmas party in San Lorenzo. He looked grumpy, and I looked grumpy too. Neither of us was that good at social gatherings, so my first impression was of a kindred spirit. Prior to that, he had been sending me sweet ‘Happy Christmas’ faxes, so we had something to talk about. This was around ’94. He seemed shy, quietly spoken, and he had a funny way of speaking – his vocal levels were disproportionate. He would speak quietly then burst into raucous laughter.

“Lee had a good understanding of imagery and a love of photography. He collected work by Joel-Peter Witkin. When I worked with him, he treated a digital image like fabric, moving it around on the screen. He was particularly interested in making anatomical changes. It was fascinating and exciting working with him.

He could often see the picture before I could.

My role then was to take him to somewhere that perhaps he could not see, to try and get inside his head.

“I think a lot of his frustration came from the fact he was held back by people who did not understand his vision. His speed of comprehension was amazing – and slightly scary.” NICK KNIGHT, FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER

Moss, AW98/99 show, McQueen & Blow Getty Images; McQueen 1997 Marc Hom/Trunk Archive; jacket firstVIEW; ostrich-feather dress Rex Features; neckpiece Anthea Simms; Dress No. 13 Catwalking

Jungle Out There jacket, AW97/98; RIGHT AW98/99 show at London Fashion Week, February 1998

ABOVE McQueen with his muse and friend Isabella Blow in March 2003; BELOW Dress No.13, AW99

Credits TK Images

Kate Moss at Alexander McQueen’s NYC debut

NEWS

MARIA GRACHVOGEL

Swirls of COLOU

y f vou te things

Associated primarily with the upper echelons of French society, Rococo was the artistic embodiment of 18th-century extravagance.

Its florid paintings, furniture and motifs, such as the swirl, are still influential. Now, Fabergé – a 19th-century fine-jewellery house immortalised by its ornate Easter eggs for the last Romanov Tsar, Nicholas II and Empress Alexandra – has fused heritage with modernity to create the Fabergé Rococo collection. Diamonds and pink sapphires are set in 18kt rose gold, with asymmetrical curls and scrolls that recall the house’s intricate Rocaille egg of 1902. Fabergé necklace, price on request and ring £39,245. Available from The Fine Jewellery Room, Ground Floor

London-based fashion designer Maria Grachvogel launched her self-titled label in 1994 and gained acclaim for her tailoring and hand-painted prints. She talks to Harrods Magazine about the clothes that played a pivotal role in her story.

ON THE RISE Move over, Choupette – Karl Lagerfeld has a new protégée. Joanna Przetakiewicz, creative director of Polish womenswear brand La Mania, couldn’t believe her good fortune when Lagerfeld took an interest in her work four years ago. She now refers to him as her fashion “godfather”. After she showed her AW12 debut collection at London Fashion Week, her brand’s rise has been meteoric. La Mania’s SS15 collection takes inspiration from the movement-inspired work of artist and filmmaker James Nares. The architectural cocktail dresses, skirts and jackets are offset by voluminous draped gowns and irreverent little caped dresses, all echoing the brushstrokes of Nares’ pieces.

La Mania gown £3,225. Available from Eveningwear, First Floor

Everyday HE OES There’s casualwear, and then there’s Tomas Maier’s casualwear. That is to say, when the creative brain behind Bottega Veneta designs a collection of laid-back, beautifully made pieces, that particular sartorial code takes on a new dimension. Maier’s eponymous label is all about making craftsmanship an everyday staple, and as relevant to dressing down as dressing up. His SS15 womenswear line includes maxidresses, easy-luxe skirts, capri pants and lightweight shirts, all made with fabrics treated to “feel good on bare skin”. These include silk, cotton, cashmere, denim and suede.

From left Tomas Maier shirt £365, skirt £1,299 and dress £400. Available from International Designer, First Floor

“My aunt Eileen was my role model when I was growing up.

She was the most glamorous and gorgeous woman, but it wasn’t only her style that influenced me. She was a talented tailor and couturier, and I have memories of sneaking into her workroom just to gaze at all the amazing fabrics.

Unfortunately, she died at a young age, only 33.

I ended up inheriting a whole wardrobe of her pieces.

“When I was in my early teens, these clothes became my reference material: I’d challenge myself to recreate them in different fabrics or FROM TOP Maria styles. I made my first Grachvogel gowns £1,775 full collection at 14; and £1,375. Available by 18, I’d launched from Eveningwear, First Floor my own label. Apart from my bias-cut pattern-cutting blocks, which I developed myself, pretty much all of my tailoring blocks were taken from Eileen’s designs.

They still are, actually, although I’ve tweaked them. I knew very early on that, when you put on one of Eileen’s jackets, there was something different; you could feel the quality.

“In 2014, I celebrated 20 years in the industry. I’ve kept an archive of all my important designs, and Eileen’s pieces are all mixed in. Sometimes I’ll pull something out that she created, and I’m still blown away by it. One that stands out is a ’70s-style jersey dress with skinny-cut arms.

It feels amazing when you put it on: it’s so effortless and the fit is perfect. It’s exactly the type of thing that I still aspire to make today. I love that Eileen left me a legacy that not only informed me in such an important way, but also still influences me.”

– By Lindsay Macpherson

PROMO T ION

Blossoming romance For spring, Myla has created a collection of glamorous and refined lingerie and sleepwear that evokes the romance of a summer garden

F

ashion’s floral fixation was in full bloom on this season’s catwalks. But it’s not just clothing designers who have cultivated botanically inspired collections. Myla – the Mayfair-based lingerie label that recently celebrated its 15th anniversary – has put its own spin on the motif.

London has always played a pivotal part in the Myla design process, and this season was no exception. The design team took its cues from the capital’s Royal Parks as well as the romance of floral-inspired art in the city’s storied museums and art galleries. The result is every bit as charming as you would expect, mixing glamour with modern styling and superlative craftsmanship.

The rose forms a leitmotif in the Beautiful Escape collection, in which almost every element of the flower

is represented. Layers of tulle recall overlapping petals; delicate embroidery evokes blossoms; and patterned lace takes its colour palette from the quintessentially British bloom. Drawing inspiration from shadows, some of the pieces also incorporate unexpectedly daring, dark, directional elements.

While the design process is confined to Myla’s Mayfair headquarters, the creation takes place further afield. The complexities of manufacturing such confections mean that specialists are sought out from across Europe – and the fabrics and embellishments are equally considered.

Leavers lace, an ultra-fine lace woven on centuries-old looms, is sourced from Calais in the north of France, and ornate embroidery is laser-cut using specialist equipment in Austria.

THIS PAGE Myla Dainty Embroidery bra £120, thong £70 and suspender £135; OPPOSITE PAGE Myla Floral Embroidery basque £350 and mini £80

Available from Lingerie, First Floor

FA S H I O N Erdem gown £4,775

Maje dress £299

Roberto Cavalli top £3,780

Elie Saab dress £3,875 Ted Baker dress £229

E de

Nancy Gonzalez bag £3,965

Nicholas Kirkwood shoes £565

Lost in LACE

Annoushka earrings £11,500

ich el Ko s

Fashion’s love affair with lace finds fresh expression in this season’s feminine dresses and delicate separates Elie Saab trousers £2,050

Michael Kors T-shirt dress £345, skirt £8,000, belt £220 and shoes £415

*EDITOR’S CHOICE

Alongside longline silhouettes, lace is an Alessandra Rich signature. For SS15 she put an ’80s spin on her patented aesthetic.

Michael Kors dress £1,565

Alessandra Rich gown £1,999

Stylist Olivia Halsall

Alexander McQueen shoes £615

Alexander McQueen bag £995

Available from Luxury Accessories and Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor; Eveningwear and International Designer, First Floor; Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor; Harrods Shoe Heaven, Fifth Floor, and harrods.com

NEWS

FL AL FIXATION As much a brand signature as the designer duo’s beloved Sicily, flowers are the stars of Dolce & Gabbana’s latest endeavour. An exclusive capsule collection features blooms that take their aesthetic cues from favourite flowers. The rich red carnations that first appeared in the label’s SS15 catwalk show are blown up on a full-length kaftan, while a delicate mimosa motif provides a counterpoint to the black background on a tunic-style top and matching trousers.

For the finishing touch, crystal decoration (another Dolce & Gabbana calling card) adorns collars and cuffs. From left Dolce & Gabbana top £4,150 and trousers £625, and kaftan £5,250. Available from Superbrands, First Floor

BE JEWELLED

Lovers of AW14’s embellishment trend need not fear the change of season, as accessory giant MCM has amped up its latest bags with jewels galore. The German brand – which counts Rihanna and Beyoncé among its fans – has taken a break from its pivotal role in the recent backpack revival to create the collection.

Intended to sit alongside the brand’s cult monogrammed bags, the new designs are decorative and feminine but still fun. One of the key pieces, the Romantic Chandelier clutch, sets Swarovski crystals and gold-plated hardware against black lizard-print leather.

MCM Romantic Chandelier clutch £1,995.

Available from Designer Accessories, Lower Ground Floor

Divine inspiration Perhaps it’s the Italian heritage mixed with an English upbringing, but few designers dream up dresses that balance sophistication, seduction and a little bit of cool the way Antonio Berardi does. For SS15, Berardi’s aesthetic was influenced by the 2011 film The Flowers of War, set in 1937 in a Catholic cathedral in China. The film’s cultural mix offered Berardi endless references, including a palette inspired by light streaming through stained-glass windows, embroidery and chinoiserie-style floral prints. Highlights from the collection include a fairy-tale organza gown with tumbling layers and a beaded bodice, and a structured silk dress with a fluid cape-style detail, featuring a painterly floral pattern.

From left Antonio Berardi dress £1,825 and gown £6,399. Available from International Designer, First Floor

An inte vie

ith

PIERRE HARDY

by Lindsay Macpherson

Parisian designer Pierre Hardy has overseen Hermès’ footwear since 1990 and, in 2002, he was appointed creative director of Hermès fine jewellery. He talks to Harrods Magazine about his “haute bijouterie” concept and why he doesn’t worry about technical constraints.

“Shoes and jewellery exist in entirely different universes. Even precious shoes are fashion accessories that ultimately have to be replaced. In contrast, a piece of fine jewellery is a commitment – a long-lasting investment.

The approach to each is different but, at the end of the day, my purpose is to design beautiful objects.

Most haute-joaillerie houses start with the stones and then design around them, but for haute bijouterie we consider the design first, and then find stones that best fit the shapes, concepts and volumes. For me, haute bijouterie is freedom, because it means escaping all the rules and time restrictions you encounter when producing a regular collection.

I try not to think too much about technical constraints. It means I can fully focus on being creative.

Later, when I discuss making the pieces with our ateliers, I’m amazed at the technical approaches the craftsmen come FROM TOP Hermès Della up with and how Cavalleria earrings and passionate and Grand Apparat bracelet; prices on request. Available curious they are. from The Fine Jewellery Creating beauty is Room, Ground Floor my area of expertise, but I don’t consider myself a craftsman.

Hermès has a singular style, which I see as understated elegance mixed with innovation and a pinch of humour. I try to create jewellery within that framework.

Usually it’s when those codes contradict my own ideas and I start questioning things that the process becomes interesting.

You can’t define the Hermès woman.

She has a sense of freedom, but also a certain restraint, and a sense of conformity mixed with a passion for shaking up conventions. For the new collection, I thought it would be interesting to try to portray her using jewellery as a medium.

In the end, it’s the woman who gives personality to the jewels, not the other way around.”

P L A Y

F A V O U R I T E

S H A R E

S H O P

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FA S H I O N

Stuart Weitzman

oger Vivier

shoes £2,595

shoes £4,350

Gianvito ossi

Charlotte Olympia

shoes £4,625

shoes £2,100

Credits TK Images

XXXXX

Christian Louboutin shoes £1,895 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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Dolce & Gabbana shoes ÂŁ62,500

FA S H I O N

Casadei shoes ÂŁ1,500 Available from Harrods Shoe Heaven, Fifth Floor Deputy Fashion Editor POPPY ROCK X WATCH Download the Harrods app for shoes that are out of this world

NEWS

Too cool

FOR SCHOOL

Parents be warned: you will want these clothes (and not just for your kids).

Super-cool LA brand Vince has launched a collection of childrenswear this month.

Vince Kids translates the contemporary, laid-back-luxe vibe of the adult readyto-wear lines, scaled down for tiny trendsetters. Pieces include super-soft cashmere sweaters, a leather bomber jacket, Breton tops, faux fur and plenty of denim, all in Vince’s signature neutral colour palette. Thank goodness the grown-ups’ versions are in-store too.

On her Sweater from £180; on him Jacket from £130 and sweatpants from £59.95. Available from Junior Designer Apparel, Fourth Floor

Magic touch For little princesses who want the fairy tale never to end, new childrenswear brand Courage & Kind has designed a collection inspired by Cinderella. The brand has been given access to the Disney archives, and conjured up designs that capture a fantastical, fun spirit. Girls can wear a piece of Cinderella every day with a collection comprising sweatshirts with sketches and sparkles, and tutu-style skirts paired with sneakers. Best accessorised with a tiara, naturally. Courage & Kind sweatshirt £75, skirt £60, tiara and shoes from a selection. Available from The Disney Store, Fourth Floor

Fairy-tale

FANTASY

Dreams are coming true. The Disney Bibbidi Bobbidi Boutique at Harrods, which has been magicking up glittering princesses, is adding two new experiences for prospective fairy-tale stars. To mark the launch of the new movie Cinderella, little girls can visit the boutique to be transformed into Cinderella on her wedding day or at the ball – complete with a copy of the ballgown designed for the film. To book, please visit harrods.com/disney

MINI me

The rich colours and dreamy Orient-inspired patterns of Gucci’s SS15 womenswear collection have lent themselves rather well to being minimised. In a capsule collection available exclusively in-store, the high-glamour fashion house brings an on-trend 1970s look to dresses for four- to 12-year-olds. Made in Italy, the junior collection includes a belted fantasy-print shift and a patchworkprint buttoned dress in silk georgette.

From left Gucci dresses £785 and £620, exclusive to Harrods. Available from Children’s Designer Apparel, Fourth Floor

Hop to it Two bona-fide members of fashion royalty have waved their magic wands over all things mini. Tom Ford muse Julia Restoin Roitfeld is championing the reissue of 1940 children’s book Pat the Bunny, and shoe designer Charlotte Dellal has created a related pocketsized Charlotte Olympia footwear range of pumps and sandals with cute rabbit details.

An accompanying craft-activity event will be taking place in-store on Saturday 21st March.

Charlotte Olympia shoes £225, exclusive to Harrods. Available from Children’s Designer Apparel, Fourth Floor. To book, please email patthebunny@harrods.com HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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NEWS

A new page

In recent years the UK has reclaimed its place at the forefront of directional fashion – in no small part thanks to Christopher Kane. His collections at London Fashion Week are always highly anticipated, with SS15 being no exception. The graphic prints on this season’s menswear have been inspired by flip books and notepads.

The resulting trompe l’oeil turningpage motif appears in different forms on T-shirts, shirts, shorts and even suits. Christopher Kane T-shirt £190 and shorts from a selection.

Available from Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor

Timely fashion Is the fact that the clocks go forward this month a good excuse to invest in a new timepiece? We think so.

And who better to turn to than the world’s oldest watchmaker, Blancpain? The Swiss manufacture is releasing a model to add to its Villeret collection: a mechanical self-winding three-hand timepiece with an ultra-slim form containing Blancpain’s calibre 1151. The watch features a date display, a sapphire crystal case back, a chequered silvertoned dial, and an alligator-leather strap. Blancpain watch £6,900.

Available from The Fine Watch Room, Ground Floor

Taken to EXTREMES When Tomas Maier arrived at Bottega Veneta in 2001, he revolutionised luxury. Gone were loud logos and in came a purist commitment to craftsmanship.

His approach to the Italian fashion house’s fragrances was just as meticulous. After a decade, Maier was finally happy to debut a women’s fragrance, followed in 2013 by the house’s first men’s scent. For 2015, Bottega Veneta Pour Homme is reinterpreted with labdanum and pimento notes intensified against the signature leather and wood accord.

Bottega Veneta Pour Homme Extrême 50ml, £52. Available from The Perfumery Hall, Ground Floor

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H A R RODS M AGA ZINE

Style rules: Start afresh

Now is the time for a seasonal shake-up with a strategic wardrobe reshuffle

BY LUKE LEITCH

Look around. The days are getting longer. It should, just about, be getting warmer. So what, precisely, are you doing sartorially to signal it’s spring? Here’s my guide to shrugging off winter and striding forth stylishly: 1. Spring clean Unfortunately, it remains socially unacceptable to retreat to a warm dark cave and sleep winter out. Yet men do tend to hibernate – at least when it comes to their clothes. So take a look at the pieces you’ve been relying on throughout January and February – especially knitwear and outerwear – and consider which of them you can retire for the next 10 months. You need to clear the ground before building your new-season wardrobe.

2. Warm up Rushing pell-mell into a total wardrobe overhaul won’t do. A gentle way to initiate change is to try new colour combinations. The rich, dark colours featured in the SS15 shows – green, purple and berry – work well.

For guidance look to Burberry Prorsum, where deepemerald velvet jackets were teamed with moss-green trousers. Try remixing the palette of your shirt collection too, introducing opulent shades from Armani or a T-shirt from Paul Smith, with cobalt blue bleeding into bronze.

3. Shape up Designers are brimming with ideas for men who live in mufti. Luxury fashion houses are increasingly designing menswear with a sportier feel. These clothes give the wearer the freedom of movement of athletic-inspired garments, but are crafted from noble fibres. Check out Louis Vuitton’s embellished bomber and zip-pocketed trousers and Bottega Veneta’s slouchwear in khaki.

You may not be spending your energies getting in shape, but that’s the impression you will convey.

4. Reboot The big catwalk trend this season is the continued integration of trainers into formalwear, but to meld the two with elan, the shoe needs to be pared down: think two colours, max. Both Dior Homme and Alexander McQueen went straight to the heart of the trend, teaming inventive raincoats with plain white trainers that had a touch of the tennis shoe about them. Perfect, even when rain stops play.

Available from Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor; and harrods.com Luke Leitch has written about fashion for Vogue, Esquire, Vanity Fair, The Times and The Daily Telegraph X WATCH Download the Harrods app for a quick change of clothes

FROM TOP Burberry Prorsum velvet jacket £995, denim jacket £595 and trousers £495; Paul Smith jacket £650 and T-shirt from a selection; Bottega Veneta sweater £985 and trousers £700; Dior Homme coat £2,250; Alexander McQueen coat £1,695

FA S H I O N

3 ways with COLOUR

Menswear reveals its lighter side as tailoring teams with the bold and bright

Gucci

Etro jacket £725

Emporio Armani sunglasses from £143

Gucci jacket £1,240

The Kooples jacket, part of a suit £580 Burberry Prorsum hat £225

Et o

Gucci jacket £1,150, trousers £455, bag £3,210 and trainers £410

Hugo Boss trousers £110

Alexander McQueen coat £1,399

Jimmy Choo trainers £475

Come on STRONG Separates in vivid shades

All white NOW

Plot a summer sartorial course with clean and crisp standout pieces that work a nautical vibe

cut a dash, especially alongside sporty footwear or a headlining hat

ush to BLUSH From salmon to

bubblegum, pink is the shade currently hitting fashion’s sweet spot Shamballa Jewels necklace £43,000

Vivienne Westwood trousers £550

The Kooples trousers, part of a suit £580

AMI trainers £240

Mulberry bag £995

Vivienne Westwood shirt £130

Kurt Geiger shoes £165

Available from Luxury Accessories, Men’s Contemporary Collections and Men’s International Gallery, Lower Ground Floor; Luxury Jewellery, Men’s International Collections, Men’s Luxury Collections and Sunglasses, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

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H A R RODS M AGA ZINE

Stylist Becky Branch

Jil Sander shirt £210

Burberry Prorsum bag £1,495

Richard James jacket £1,200 and trousers £239

ich d J es

Billionaire Couture T-shirt £220

TOKYO STORY

Watercolour prints, demure silhouettes and delicate layering. Fashion looks to the East for elegant inspiration KATJ

/F

FA S H I O N

Erdem dress £4,475; Kurt Geiger shoes £95

FA S H I O N

THIS PAGE Gucci dress £8,640; Kurt Geiger shoes from a selection; necklace stylist’s own; OPPOSITE PAGE Prada top £1,095

Stella McCartney dress ÂŁ2,250 and shoes from a selection

FA S H I O N

THIS PAGE Antonio Berardi dress £1,825; Jimmy Choo shoes £1,395; OPPOSITE PAGE Lanvin dress £1,850; Kurt Geiger shoes £95

FA S H I O N

THIS PAGE Victoria Beckham coat £2,099; OPPOSITE PAGE Burberry

Prorsum top £250, skirt £895 and shoes from a selection

Hair KEIICHIRO HIRANO at David Artists using Bumble and Bumble Make-up LIZ DAXAUER at Caren using Shu Uemura Nails DAISY HASSAN using Dior Vernis Les Violets Hypnotiques Model LYDIA GRAHAM at Models 1 Junior Fashion Assistant OLIVIA HALSALL Digital Assistant ANDREW DAVIES Lighting Assistant MORGAN HILL-MURPHY Set Designer PHILIP COOPER Available from International Designer and Superbrands, First Floor; and Harrods Shoe Heaven, Fifth Floor X WATCH Download the Harrods app and follow the Japanese journey

ATTITUDE

Fashion is riffing on rude-boy style codes, with slick suits, slim ties and trilbies. Just add swagger PANI PAUL / F

THIS PAGE Christopher Kane jacket from a selection; APC shirt £150; Harrods of London bow tie £49.95; OPPOSITE PAGE Brioni suit £3,800; Hardy Amies scarf £119; Corneliani shirt £169;

Ralph Lauren tie £115; Borsalino hat £160; Church’s shoes £385

FA S H I O N

HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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THIS PAGE Gucci jacket

£1,240 and scarf £140; Vivienne Westwood shirt from a selection; OPPOSITE PAGE Vivienne Westwood jacket £875; The Kooples shirt £145; Saint Laurent tie £175; Prada trousers £770

FA S H I O N

THIS PAGE Canali coat £899; Hackett jacket, part of a suit £809; Brioni shirt £310; Gucci glasses from £175; OPPOSITE PAGE Saint Laurent shirt £425, jeans £325 and tie £175

Grooming MICHAEL GRAY at David Artists Models TED LE SUEUR at FM London and YSHAM at AMCK Models Senior Fashion Assistant BECKY BRANCH Lighting Assistant ED BOURMIER Digital Assistant LOLA PAPROCKA Available from Men’s Accessories, Men’s Contemporary Collections, Men’s International Gallery, Men’s Shirts & Ties and The Men’s Shoe Salon, Lower Ground Floor; Men’s International Collections, Ground Floor; and harrods.com X WATCH Download the Harrods app to hit your rude-boy stride HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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SKINCARE / COSMETICS / FRAGRANCE

Take it to THE TOP

New spring styles are inventive and unexpected. Twist, tie or tame hair for an instant fresh take BY FASHION STYLING OLIVIA HALSALL

’TOOLE

LIVED-IN BUN

Master the modern messy look by introducing texture with dry shampoo, and movement with a large curling tong, raking waves through with fingers. Use grips and randomly secure sections of hair around the nape. Finally, use the flat of your hand to loosen hair at the front for a dishevelled feel.

Leonor Greyl Shampooing Reviviscence £55; Bumble and Bumble Prêt-à-powder £21.50; Moroccanoil Heat Styling Protection £19; ghd Curve Soft Curl Tong £110; Show Premiere Working Texture Spray £30 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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TRIBAL TWISTS

Start by working oil through the hair for shine. Make a centre parting from the front, continuing it right down to the nape. Create two small front sections, crossing them over each other and then twisting to the ends.

Add these to the rest of the hair to form two low bunches. Tie extra hairbands down the bunches, twisting as you go.

HAIR Leonor Greyl Masque Quintessence £100; Aveda Dry Remedy Daily Moisturizing Oil £19.50 and Brilliant Spray-on Shine £18; Kérastase Ciment Thermique £19; Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray £16.65 FASHION Issa top £350

NEWS

Fast FRIEND

When it comes to skincare, results are worth waiting for, but there are times when a quick fix is the order of the day. Perfect for the task is Dr Sebagh Instant V Lift. Including more than 10 active ingredients with antiageing benefits – such as tapioca starch for immediate tightening, and plankton extract, which helps to increase collagen production – this is a serum designed to firm skin, in double-quick time.

Ready, steady, glow. 30ml, £150, exclusive to Harrods. Available from The Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor

Light TOUCH

After nearly a decade of research and development, Iluminage is launching the Skin Smoothing Laser. The DIY device is designed to reduce fine lines around the eyes and mouth by delivering pulses of light below the skin’s surface.

The laser triggers a physiological response to generate new collagen fibres, which in turn helps tighten skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Lightweight, and with a sleek design, it’s also easy to manoeuvre for targeted use. £450; exclusive to Harrods. Available from The Beauty Apothecary, Ground Floor

Model Alamy

Slick your lips Combining colour with the smoothing benefits of oils extracted from macadamia seeds, apricot kernels, passionflower seeds, coriander fruit and jojoba seeds, YSL’s Volupté Tint-in-Oil is an innovative way to enhance lips. Although oil and tinted pigments naturally repel each other, YSL has developed Colour Link Infuser technology to enable the elements to work effectively as one. Volupté Tint-in-Oil goes on smoothly and delivers durable colour in eight easy-to-wear shades. £23.50. Available from The Colour and Cosmetics Halls, Ground Floor

MISS HEAVEN SCENT

evo e

e o es

I don’t know about you, but I have a serious case of blossom anticipation. For me it’s the marker that winter is over.

Upon seeing the tiny buds bloom, I’m inclined to take a photograph; certainly an image can capture a mood and hold a memory. But fragrance does it so much better. Scent has the power to stir memories and express states of mind.

And lately, perfumers have been attempting to draw on this fact. So this year I shall use my nose, not my eyes, to savour the beginning of spring.

Omani house Amouage has launched a fragrance called Sunshine as part of the Midnight Flower collection. Imagine a scene of a sun-soaked Californian beach; the accord, which includes almond, vanilla, magnolia, patchouli and blond tobacco, gives the sense of sun streaming out of the bottle.

The mother-daughter team behind Dear Rose created five perfumes in 2014, each of which evokes a stage in a FROM TOP Amouage Sunshine woman’s life. The 100ml, £295, exclusive to house’s newest Harrods; Dear Rose Song launch, Song for a Queen 100ml, £155; Roja Parfums 3 100ml, for a Queen, is £950; ERH1012 Dead of about creativity Night 20ml, £390, exclusive and passion. The to Harrods. Available from stirring floral The Beauty Apothecary and accord of jasmine, The Perfumery Hall, Ground heliotrope, orange Floor; Salon de Parfums, Sixth Floor; and harrods.com blossom, black vanilla and white musk conjures up images of Françoise Hardy playing guitar. Sigh.

Essential to every olfactory album, of course, are snapshots of the night, which have inspired both Roja Parfums and ERH1012. Roja’s new Parfum de la Nuit collection contains the simply titled 1, 2 and 3. The warm, spicy Oriental fragrances reflect different moods that arise when the sun sets – predatory, seductive and elusive, respectively.

At ERH1012, the oud wood-based fragrance Dead of Night comes in the form of a natural oil, which is as darkly alluring in its scent as it is sensual in its application. Think starlit nights on a beach in southeast Asia. Double sigh.

– By Fleur Fruzza HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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HIGH FIVE

Editor Jan Masters reveals her top five beauty treats for the month

Balancing traditional Chinese medicine with modern skin science, SkinPointEight is the new brand from John Tsagaris. I love Age-Adapt Day Concentrate – a nourishing and hydrating fluid loaded with herbal extracts such as aloe and magnolia to help improve skin’s overall condition. The formula is infused with “adaptogen” herbs to encourage skin to cope with environmental changes. I feel more wholesome just talking about it. 30ml, £320; exclusive to Harrods

The idea of flaunting a bottle of perfume on my dressing table makes finding one all the more exciting, and that’s certainly true of the new fragrance from Lalique. Housed in a glass flacon inspired by the Carnette Fleur bottle of 1911, Living Lalique is a woody floral scent with a powdery iris heart. At the top, bergamot cools aromatic nutmeg and piquant black pepper. At the base, vetiver weaves through a creamy sandalwood drydown. A timelessly beautiful fragrance, inside and out. 100ml, £98; exclusive to Harrods

Red lips were loved up on the spring catwalks, and Dolce & Gabbana’s shade of choice was a rich wine, matte in texture. Now, I can replicate that with the brand’s Dolce Matte Lipstick.

Perfectly opaque, with a soft, velvety formula, it envelops lips with full-bodied colour while keeping them soft and hydrated. And in a variety of reds, from bright Dolce Fire to deep burgundy Dolce Inferno, there’s something for everyone. £26.50; exclusive to Harrods

Last summer, I was lucky enough to stay at the Royal Mansour hotel in Marrakech and visit the spa that inspired the gorgeous hammam in Urban Retreat. A similarly exciting import is the marocMaroc product line that’s being used to maintain the authenticity of the London experience. I particularly love the Onguent d’Argan Nourishing Body Balm. It works wonders on dry areas, and its fragrance reminds me of my Marrakech sojourn. 50ml, £48.50

Available from The Beauty Apothecary and The Cosmetics and Perfumery Halls, Ground Floor; and Urban Retreat, Fifth Floor

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Foundation and body balm smudge Alamy; Iris flower iStock

Not only has Eve Lom been a skincare authority for more than 25 years, the brand has also recently introduced the Radiance Perfected Complexion Products colour line, which boosts moisture levels and improves elasticity and tone.

New to the range is Radiant Glow Cream Foundation + SPF30. The formulation blends well, and plumps fine lines and wrinkles for a smooth finish. 10g, £48

High tea Some of the world’s finest teas hail from the misty mountains of Darjeeling, where one company is nurturing historically important estates

BY PAT

ICK MCGUIGAN / PHOTOG FOOD STYLIN

APHE TAMIN JONES ECIPES SEIKO HATFIELD

FROM TOP Designers Guild Viola Heather fabric £89 per metre; Wedgwood Rose Gold teapot £175, teacup and saucer £80; Royal Albert 100 Years teacups and saucers £130 for set of 5; Arthur Price tea strainer £65; Carrs English Reed & Ribbon teaspoon £179 HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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S

team trains still snake through the foothills of the Himalayas in India, slowly climbing up to the hill station of Darjeeling, where passengers alight above the clouds in another world. Wreathed in mountain mists with dazzling views of snowy peaks, this implausibly beautiful town looks as if it has been lifted from the pages of a fairy tale. Mark Twain described it as “the one land that all men desire to see”; during the British Raj, it became known as the “queen of the hills”.

It was the British, 175 years ago, who first planted the tea gardens that cling to the region’s slopes and produce its most famous export. Known as the Champagne of teas, Darjeeling is prized for its delicate body and floral flavours. But despite its reputation, things have not been rosy in all of the district’s tea gardens.

While Darjeeling’s output has remained stable over the past 50 years, some of its estates fell into disrepair after India’s independence in 1947. Many were abandoned altogether as poor management and lack of investment took their toll. But happily, the gardens are now being revived by a pioneering company called Ambootia, which produces world-class teas under such romantic brands as Cloudy Grulong and Dancing Dragon.

Named after the first plantation that the company took over in the 1980s, Ambootia now has 11 tea gardens across Darjeeling, all of which have been nursed back to health using holistic agricultural practices. “The gardens had become sick, but with painstaking effort they have been improved, first by taking care of the people that work on them and then by improving the land,” explains senior tea taster Shivaji Sen. “You must put back into the soil what you take out.”

Many of the workers on Ambootia’s estates are fifthgeneration tea pluckers, and their welfare is an essential part of the company’s ethos. They are provided with housing, utilities and education, and in return have been instrumental in revitalising the land.

Treating the land with respect is important because, just as wine reflects its terroir, a tea’s flavour is heavily influenced by soil type, altitude and climate. This is perfectly demonstrated by Ambootia’s Snow Mist tea – one of the rarest and most expensive teas in the world.

A black tea, Snow Mist is made with tender first-flush buds from Darjeeling’s Happy Valley tea garden. The garden is often enveloped by mountain mists, and the unusual weather conditions mean the plants sprout a tiny number of delicate buds. These give the tea a complex floral flavour with hints of pine. While most pluckers harvest between 10kg and 30kg of leaves a day, those working on the Snow Mist plants will be lucky to bring in a single kilogram. “When you consider that from one kilo of leaves, the final tea will only weigh 200g, you understand that it’s a labour of love,” Sen says.

The estates are all organic – chemical fertilisers have been abandoned in favour of natural compost – and biodynamic principles are also employed, with the plants tended in rhythm with the lunar cycle. It might sound a bit far-fetched, but there is growing evidence that plants are influenced by the phases of the moon and should be plucked or pruned accordingly. “For the long-term health of agriculture, our practices have to be sustainable,” Sen says. “The only way of doing this is through natural means, because over-use of chemicals

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TOP, FOOD, CLOCKWISE FROM TOP Ambootia

Cloud White tea £30 per 100g, green tea £6.50 per 100g, and Snow Mist tea £500 per 100g; HOMEWARES Royal Albert Miranda Kerr teacup and saucer £50 and 100 Years teacup and saucer £130 for set of 5; Wedgwood Rose Gold teacup and saucer £80; ABOVE Darjeeling tea pluckers in Ambootia’s tea gardens

and fertilisers can lead to a leaching of the soil, so it becomes unproductive.”

A good example of the care lavished on the gardens is Aloobari, which was the first tea estate planted in Darjeeling, and which today produces Summer Gold. This “tippy” tea is made with a high proportion of delicate golden buds (known as tips) from second-flush leaves. The first tea produced in Darjeeling was grown in Aloobari in 1840 by Dr Archibald Campbell – a Scot who initially experimented by planting tea in his kitchen garden, with the venture then blossoming into a commercial operation. The estate had been abandoned for 20 years before Ambootia took over in 2010 and started to work its magic on the land, even managing to coax some of Campbell’s original tea bushes back to health. “The tips from Aloobari have a distinct taste, which is delicate, but also smooth and long with a muscatel note,” Sen says.

To fully appreciate these fine teas, a bit more work is required than just slinging a teabag in a mug. Sen advocates brewing one teaspoon of tea per cup in a prewarmed pot for four minutes. Milk and sugar are not recommended, although a drizzle of honey can be added for those with a sweet tooth. The only other essentials for the perfect cup are a warm tea cosy and good crockery.

“Our tea is best served in thin bone china,” Sen says. “It really helps enhance the delicate flavours.”

Decent china is the least these remarkable teas from above the clouds deserve. HMN Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor. Homewares available from Entertaining at Home and Wedgwood & Waterford Crystal, Second Floor; and The Fabric Library, Third Floor Patrick McGuigan writes for Square Meal, ShortList and Restaurant

AMBOOTIA TEA BISCUITS

POACHED PEARS IN AMBOOTIA AND APPLE TEA

Makes 40

Serves 4

60g granulated sugar 1 tsp (2g) Ambootia black tea leaves 100g unsalted butter at room temperature 1 egg white 125g plain flour A pinch of baking powder 100g dark chocolate, chopped into small pieces ¼ tsp granulated sugar to sprinkle on top (optional)

1 In a food processor or spice mill, grind the sugar and tea leaves together.

2 Preheat the oven to 160°C/325°F/Gas 3.

3 In a large bowl, mix the butter until soft, then add the sugar and egg white, and whisk until fully incorporated.

4 In a separate bowl, combine the flour and baking powder, then sieve them into the butter mixture. Mix well.

5 Scoop the biscuit mixture into a small piping bag with a star nozzle.

6 Pipe the mixture onto a tray lined with baking parchment. Each biscuit should be around 4cm in diameter and a maximum of 5mm thick. This recipe should make 40 biscuits.

7 Cook the biscuits in the oven for about 20 minutes, turning once to ensure an even bake and colour. Once the biscuits’ edges are lightly browned, take them out of the oven and allow to cool.

8 Melt the chocolate in a small bowl over a pan of simmering water. Dip half of each biscuit into the chocolate then place back onto the baking parchment. Leave in a cool place for about an hour to allow the chocolate to set. The biscuits can be stored in an airtight container for up to a week.

Designers Guild Viola Heather fabric £89 per metre; FROM TOP Wedgwood Cuckoo sugar bowl £60 (with milk jug), Wild Strawberry saucer £25, Sweet Plum 18cm plate £26, saucer £25 and teacup and saucer £35

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4 pears, peeled 6 tsp (12g) Ambootia black tea leaves 500ml apple juice 4 tsp caster or granulated sugar 3 strips of orange peel 3 strips of lemon peel 4 cloves 1 star anise 1 cinnamon stick 3 cardamom pods

1 Halve the pears and remove the cores.

2 Boil 300ml water in a small pan, then add the tea. Infuse for 3 minutes, then pour through a fine sieve. Discard the tea leaves.

3 Heat the apple juice and tea in a small pan, then stir in all the remaining ingredients. Add a little more sugar if the mixture is not sweet enough – the amount of sugar required depends on how strong the tea is and how sweet the apple juice is.

4 When the liquid boils, take the pan off the heat. Place the pears in a large bowl and pour the liquid over them. Cover the bowl with baking parchment and allow to cool, then refrigerate for at least six hours.

5 The pears can be served warm or cold, and the poaching liquid is delicious either served with fruit or as a cool drink.

Wedgwood Cuckoo milk jug £60 (with sugar bowl) and Wild Strawberry 18cm plates £25 each

FOOD

LEMON AMBOOTIA JELLY WITH HIBISCUS SYRUP AND BERRIES Serves 9–12 For the hibiscus syrup 300ml water 20g hibiscus tea petals 200g granulated sugar For the jellies 600ml water 6 tsp (12g) Ambootia black tea leaves 55g sugar 240ml cloudy lemonade 7 gelatine sheets, soaked in water for 5 minutes 50ml vodka (optional) To decorate 100g blackberries 50g redcurrants 50g pomegranate seeds Edible flowers (optional)

1 To make the syrup, boil the water in a small pan and add the hibiscus tea petals. Simmer for 1 minute, then remove from the heat and leave to infuse for 10 minutes.

2 Strain the liquid to remove the petals and add the sugar. Bring the tea back to the boil, then simmer for about 10 minutes until the liquid has a syrupy consistency. Allow the mixture to cool and refrigerate.

3 To make the jellies, boil the water in a pan, add the tea leaves and allow to infuse for 3 minutes.

Strain using a fine sieve, discard the tea leaves and add the sugar to the liquid. Set aside.

4 In a small pan, heat the lemonade and add the gelatine sheets. Stir well to make sure that the gelatine has melted. If making alcoholic jellies, add the vodka.

5 Mix the tea with the gelatine-lemonade mixture, then pour into glasses. Place in the fridge for at least six hours (ideally, leave overnight).

6 Once the jellies have set, pour 2 teaspoons of hibiscus syrup over each one and decorate with the fruit and flowers.

AMBOOTIA TEA ICE CREAM Serves 8 3 egg yolks 120g granulated sugar 200ml milk 6 tsp (12g) Ambootia black tea leaves 300ml double cream 100g crème fraîche ½ tsp vanilla paste Biscuits to serve (optional) Please note, this recipe requires an ice-cream maker

1 In a large bowl, whisk the egg yolks and sugar until pale yellow.

2 Place the milk and tea leaves in a small pan and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and cover.

3 Infuse the tea for 10 minutes, then strain into a measuring jug. If there is less than 200ml of liquid, add a bit more milk to make up the amount.

4 While the milk is still warm, pour the liquid in a thin stream into the egg-and-sugar mixture.

Whisk thoroughly to form a custard.

5 Heat the custard on a low-to-medium heat, mixing well (and regularly, to avoid lumps) until it thickens.

6 Cool the custard to room temperature. If you are not churning the ice cream immediately, you can keep the custard in the fridge for up to 3 days.

7 Lightly whip the cream, then mix in the crème fraîche, vanilla paste and custard, and churn the mixture in the ice-cream maker for about 20 minutes (it may take a little longer depending on how cold the mixture was to start with). Once it has a gelato consistency, transfer it into a tub and freeze.

8 Serve the ice cream with crushed biscuits such as ginger thins, shortbread or caramel biscuits.

Colefax and Fowler Constance fabric £94 per metre; CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT Royal Albert 100 Years teacups and saucers £130 for set of 5 (top and middle) and Miranda Kerr teacup and saucer £25; Wedgwood Sweet Plum saucer £25 and Rose Gold teacup and saucer £25 FROM LEFT Waterford Tramore Champagne glass £115, Lismore cordial glass £100 for set of 4, claret glass £55 and white wine glass £55; Arthur Price teaspoons £19 each

Homewares available from Luxury Home, Second Floor; The Fabric Library, Third Floor; and harrods.com HAR RODS M AGAZINE

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The FLORAL TEA

Forrey & Galland large flower selection box 700g, £319.95

Harrods Teatime Loaf Cake with almonds 500g, £6.95

Biscuiteers Tea for Two biscuit tin 175g, £30

RICH pickings

Choi Time Chrysanthemum Flowers Tea 20g, £17.95

Floral teas with sweet accompaniments offer perfect afternoon refreshment

Le Bénéfique Lavender Tea 15g, £13.75

Harrods J’adore strawberry and pistachio cake £7.95

Kahve Dünyasi Rose Turkish Delight 500g, £18.95

Délice marzipan flowers 100g, £12

Forrey & Galland biscuits 100g, £15.95

Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor; and harrods.com

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Charbonnel et Walker English Rose & Violet Creams 165g, £22

Teacup photograph Tamin Jones; food styling Seiko Hatfield; prop styling Jennifer Kay

Caffè Florian Venetian Rose Tea 100g, £9.95

Selamlique Rose Croquant Sticks 240g, £29.95

NEWS

PRESERVING T ADITION In 1885, Arthur Charles Wilkin took up the recommendation of the prime minister of the day, William Gladstone, to try fruit preserving. His first Tiptree jams were sold in Australia, but it didn’t take long for the local market to realise it was missing out. By 1911, Wilkin & Sons was the proud holder of a royal warrant, which it has held ever since. The family-owned company has been making the Harrods Archive Collection Strawberry Jam almost as long, always with the small but intensely flavoured “little scarlet” variety of fruit, whose fragile nature means it needs to be jammed almost immediately after being picked. Luckily, it lasts a little longer in the jar – if you can restrain yourself.

340g, £5.95. Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor

O gin l se soning When it comes to serving the perfect spring roast, finding the right seasoning, rub or glaze can make all the difference. These generous condiments provide a wealth of flavour options.

Moutarde Royale Pommery mustard Pommery mustards were reputedly served at the court of Louis XIV in the 1600s. Fortified with Cognac, they complement most meats, and partner well with cheeses. 500g, £14.95

A taste of spring Provence Tradition salts and seasonings There are few more authentic ways of recreating the smells and tastes of Provence than by flavouring a stew or grilled meat with herbs from the region. From £4.95

From Italy WITH LOVE

We all like to support ethical producers, but it’s not always easy to verify a product’s provenance. There’s no doubting the credentials of the Niasca Portofino range, though. The brand was set up by residents of Portofino in Liguria, Italy, to promote local customs, as traditional ways of life are under threat. Handmade jams, olive oil and lemonade, all made from locally grown produce, complement a range of activities available to tourists in the village itself, from cookery and cocktail-making classes to olive-oil and wine-tasting tours.

From £2.45. Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor

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Vasilissa honey Greek honeys come in many varieties due to the abundance of flora in the country. Thyme honey is a particular hit – perfect as a glaze for roast ham or braised carrots. 250g, £9.95

Sel Magique salts The salts from Sel Magique are infused with a variety of flavours and herbs, giving a kick to everything from cookies to guacamole – and making for the ideal salt crust on spring roast lamb. From £8.95 Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor

Strawberries Getty Images

Roast lamb is a staple in spring, but the source of the meat can make an enormous difference to its quality and flavour. The mild climate of Devon and Cornwall allows sheep a longer grazing season than in many other regions of the UK, letting them reach maturity without the need for them to be fed on grain. Philip Warren Butchers farms land on and around Bodmin Moor and Dartmoor, also working with other farmers to deliver the most succulent shoulder of lamb – perfect for slow-roasting with rosemary and a flavoured salt crust.

Lamb leg or shoulder £20 per kg. Available from Food Halls, Ground Floor

FOOD

The creators of the world’s finest delicacies employ a variety of techniques, but their products share two key characteristics: impeccable provenance and irresistible quality

BY GUY WOODWA

D / PHOTOG APHE CH IS TU NE FOOD STYLIST EMMA MA SDEN

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Creditsartist Paper TK Images Michael Trew

Inspired TASTES

FOOD William Curley 16-piece Couture Chocolate Box £25

WILLIAM CURLEY

Polishing off a whole box of chocolates in one go may seem a touch gluttonous, but when they’re made by William Curley, there is a valid excuse. And it’s not just the fact that they’re so devilishly delicious.

Rather, it’s because all William Curley chocolates are made from natural ingredients, with not a preservative in sight.

Curley – four times recognised by the Academy of Chocolate as “Britain’s Best Chocolatier” – honed his skills with Pierre Koffmann and Raymond Blanc before becoming the youngest-ever chef patissier at The Savoy. There he met his Japanese wife, Suzue – also a highly respected patissier who, at the time, was overseeing the hotel’s Afternoon Teas – and the pair subsequently set up their own business.

Curley’s creations are contemporary in style but with a classic foundation, drawing on influences from around the globe – most obviously Japan, with fresh yuzu, wasabi and Japanese black vinegar.

And while the chocolate (sourced from a small, family-owned producer in Tuscany) remains the hero, Curley is open to alternative couvertures when using more innovative flavours, to ensure that the tastes marry up perfectly. Chocolate from the Caribbean, with its more fruity character, pairs perfectly with passion fruit, yuzu or raspberry, while a bolder-toned couverture from Venezuela complements the punchier notes of the brand’s Juniper and Blackcurrant or Orange and Balsamic combinations.

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Maison de la Truffe Black Truffle Acacia Honey 80g, £12.95, Extra Virgin Olive Oil with Black Truffle 100ml, £14.50 and Butter Cream with Black Truffle 85g, £8.95; Greggio honey drizzler £85

MAISON DE LA TRUFFE

It has never been entirely clear why it requires a waiter to dispense the Parmesan over one’s risotto in Italian restaurants. Ditto the grinding of the pepper over the Parmesan over the risotto. When, however, it comes to the truffle being grated over the pepper over the Parmesan over the risotto, there is a rationale: truffle grating is more challenging – and the truffle itself is far too prized an ingredient to be left hanging around. Thank goodness, then, for Maison de la Truffe, the French producer of all things truffle-related, from truffle shavings to truffle honey, all perfect for embellishing recipes to your heart’s content.

The house was set up in 1932 by truffle brokers from the Provence town of Carpentras. They realised that there was a market not just

for the truffles they bought and sold (securing the finest produce from the finders, then selling them on to packers and retailers), but also for dealing in truffle-related product directly with Parisians.

Today, the family-owned business – still based in Paris, where it has restaurants as well as stores – sources its precious raw materials not just from the south of France, but also from Spain and Italy.

And its huge range of merchandise showcases the versatility of the truffle: Extra Virgin Olive Oil with Black Truffle adds a warmth to spring salads; Black Truffle Acacia Honey delivers a rich glaze on meat and cheeses; while Butter Cream with Black Truffle is a sumptuous addition to pasta and potato dishes.

FOOD Laurent-Perrier Alexandra Rosé 2004 £295; Riedel Sommeliers Vintage Champagne glass £75

LAURENT-PERRIER

Most of the top Champagne houses produce a prestige cuvée – the result of the finest grapes from the finest terroirs made in only the finest vintages. The one released by Laurent-Perrier, though, is a little different, not least by virtue of being a rosé.

Laurent-Perrier – which has a history of Champagne-making that dates from 1812 – had long made a non-vintage rosé, but in 1982, an exceptional year, the late head of the house, Bernard de Nonancourt, decided to make a vintage version. By 1987, the wine had reached perfect maturity and, by a happy coincidence, that year de Nonancourt had a special occasion to celebrate: the wedding of his eldest daughter, Alexandra. The cuvée had acquired a name.

The conditions required to make the wine are so rare that it has been produced only six times (2004 is the most recent release) since.

Unusually among rosé Champagnes, the pinot noir and chardonnay grapes (taken only from older vines in grand-cru vineyards) are macerated together – something that can only work if they both reach optimum ripeness at the same time.

Even then, the chef de cave needs to coax this maceration to the requisite balance between fruit and freshness, between vintage and house style. Once it gets there, it still requires at least seven more years of careful ageing before release. Good things, it seems, really do come to those who wait.

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Almas Persicus caviar (top) 250g, £3,500 and Love 2015 caviar 125g, £360; Greggio small plate £80

CAVIAR HOUSE

Caviar in its purest form traditionally referred to the eggs only of wild sturgeon found in the Caspian and Black Seas. As sturgeon stocks have dwindled, however, it has become a generic term for cheaper, more common roe from fish such as salmon and trout. Some producers continue to deal only in the original material, though, and the Caviar House range spans an array of sturgeon-sourced caviar, including the subtle, lightly salted, intensely black Love 2015.

At the top end of the scale, the beluga sturgeon yields the most prized caviar – and one variety is especially treasured. Almas Persicus caviar is sourced from more mature beluga (at least 20 years of age) which deliver exceptionally large and lightly coloured roe with a complex taste.

This roe is extremely rare and its pale colour is a key signifier of quality.

Almas Persicus caviar – presented in a 23kt-gold-lined tin – is only sold in the UK through Caviar House (home also to the famous Balik salmon, resurrected from the time of the Russian tsars and now farmed exclusively in Switzerland), which cultivates beluga sturgeon sustainably, then processes and salts the caviar according to centuries-old recipes.

Just as truffles are known as black diamonds, caviar enjoys the moniker of black gold. At the peak of the caviar chain, though, this epithet is something of a misnomer: “Almas” is actually Russian for “diamond” and the roe is almost golden in colour. If any caviar merits a new name, however, the Almas Persicus is surely it.

FOOD Slega Parma ham 100g, £6; Harrods wooden serving board £29.95

SLEGA

There are just four elements for perfect Parma ham: ham, salt, air and time. Even so, its creation is a complex process. Like a fine wine, the final product is shaped by the way in which it is aged – and that’s not the only similarity with wine: to earn the coveted “Parma ham” label, the raw materials – and their cultivation – must meet certain standards. Parma ham has Protected Designation of Origin status (it can only come from the Parma province in Italy’s Emilia-Romagna region), and from the breed of pig to its diet, the curing of the ham to its ageing, every stage is tightly regulated.

The skill of the producer comes in monitoring the temperatures at which the ham is stored: through the curing process, to ensure

the perfect absorption of salt for the ham’s sweet taste; during its hanging in a humidity-controlled cellar; and then throughout the long airing (one-year minimum is required by law) in a naturally ventilated environment. At the family-run Slega, where this ageing is extended to 18 months, the hams are moved through different rooms with varying ventilation – replicating the conditions that have been harnessed for the last 2,000 years – to reach the perfect maturity.

For Stefano Borchini, who heads up the company, this means creating a delicate taste, but with a full aroma and generous flavour – and fat. “Even if you don’t like the fat,” he says, “the fact that it’s there shows the quality of the meat next to it.”

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FOOD Rosalind Miller cupcakes £6 each; Sophie Conran for Portmeirion cake plate £39.95

ROSALIND MILLER

With a textiles degree under her belt, Rosalind Miller completed a masters in graphic design at Central Saint Martins, then stayed on there for a decade to lecture on the subject. These days, her designs are more transient – her spectacular cupcakes rarely last long on the cake stand – but are works of art nonetheless. Miller’s time is primarily spent working on the intricate crafting of her creations; whether for a five-tier wedding cake, or for a selection of irresistible cupcakes, every piece of sugar decoration is handmade at her studio.

“The process is very organic,” she says. “I take inspiration from something, sketch my idea, and then see what works and what doesn’t, adapting the design as I go.” Ideas come from a variety of sources – something as small as the detail on a piece of clothing

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(a bow, for example) or as broad as a period of history, such as the Baroque era. The end result, though, is rooted in what Miller refers to as a “fail-safe” base recipe, using a special sponge flour to obtain the fluffiest consistency, and the freshest of ingredients – be it English rhubarb, Madagascan vanilla or Sicilian lemons. The actual recipe itself, though, remains a closely guarded secret.

Food and drink available from The Wine Rooms, Lower Ground Floor; and Food Halls, Ground Floor. Homewares available from Entertaining at Home and Luxury Home, Second Floor. Tastings of many of these products will take place during the Food Halls’ Stealing Beauty event in March.

COOKING MASTERCLASSES

Throughout March, home-appliance experts are organising a series of demonstrations on making perfect coffee and shaking up elevenses.

Vitamix Friday 6th and Saturday 7th March, 10am–6pm and Sunday 8th March, 11.30am–6pm For those with a sweet tooth, Vitamix will be whizzing up caramel lattes using the Professional Series 750 blender.

Nespresso Friday 13th March, 11am–6pm Masters in the art of coffee, Nespresso will use the Lattissima Plus to make mochas with frothed coconut milk and an espresso-based mojito.

KitchenAid Friday 20th, Saturday 21st and Sunday 22nd March, 11.30am–4pm Replicating the slicing and dicing techniques of professional chefs, the four-litre food processor from KitchenAid will be put to the test creating the crumbliest chocolate-chip cookies.

Jura Saturday 21st and Saturday 28th March, 11.30am–2pm See the baristas at Jura demonstrating bean-to-cup cappuccinos and lattes that will satisfy any caffeine craving.

Sage Friday 27th and Saturday 28th March, 11am–7pm; Sunday 29th March, 11.30am–6pm The team at Sage will be hosting a “coffee clinic”, showing guests how to get the best out of their beans. They’ll also make deliciously light biscuits using the Scraper Mixer Pro.

Miele Tuesday 31st March, 12pm–4pm No coffee break is complete without a biscuit. Using the Steam Combination oven, Miele’s chefs will be cooking up lemon and vanilla Sablés, Anzac biscuits, biscotti and Madeleines.

The Georgian Open Monday to Friday 12pm–8pm and Sunday 12pm–6pm; for reservations call 020 7225 6800 For those who prefer tea, the finest infusions can be found in the newly updated Georgian restaurant on the Fourth Floor; enjoy Afternoon Tea, including sandwiches, scones and pastries, for £29 per person.

For more information, call 020 7730 1234 and ask for Cookshop or Home Appliances. Please note: these are not ticketed events.

NEWS

An inte vie

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QUENTIN SANNIÉ

by Phoebe Fisher

Having co-founded the world’s most critically acclaimed audio technology start-up (37 international awards and counting), Devialet CEO Quentin Sannié introduces the Phantom, set to become the benchmark by which all home-audio systems are judged.

FINE CHINA With a history that dates back more than 250 years, and a Royal Warrant to boot, Wedgwood has cracked the art of fine dining and afternoon tea. Its latest line harks back to an era when afternoon tea was an indulgence. The Renaissance Red collection is inspired by the decorative motifs used by Scottish architect Robert Adam. Made from bone china, patterned with interlocking gilded ovals, it evokes a sense of grandeur fit for royalty. 20cm plate £30, cup £30 and saucer £24. Available from Wedgwood & Waterford Crystal, Second Floor

Cool running

The Scandinavians have already taken the art of interior design to impossibly cool levels. Now British designers at Linley have paid tribute to the influence of Danish design guru Hans Wegner with the Silhouette chair. Employing a technique usually reserved for the restoration of classic cars, the chair’s seat is crafted from a single panel of copper which is hand rolled and hammered into shape. The elegant walnutframed chair is finished in muted grey aniline leather, ensuring an aesthetic that rivals Scandinavian design for streamlined style. From £60,000. Available from The Great Writing Room, Second Floor

PRINTS charming Interior design teaming up with fashion isn’t exactly new, but every now and then a collaboration strikes gold, leaving you wondering why it hasn’t been done before.

Jonathan Saunders’ background in printed textiles and flair for vibrant colour has gained him a huge fashion following; now he looks set to impress decor devotees. Working with The Rug Company, Saunders has created four carpet designs that reflect his fashion aesthetic.

Cue revamped neon herringbone, kaleidoscopic runners, and colour combinations that only the designer dubbed the “prince of prints” could pull off. Jonathan Saunders for The Rug Company Nouveau rug £4,688. Available from The Rug Company, Third Floor

How would you describe the Phantom?

It’s a new kind of sound system, consisting of two Devialet high-excursion bass drivers and our specially designed ADH technology [a combination of analogue and digital].

It creates an accuracy and quality of sound never achieved before in a speaker of this size.

For the first time you can listen to quality bass through a small product.

Does it mean a new direction for Devialet?

We create high-end amplifiers and luxury home audio; now it’s our goal to make this technology available to more people. Before, we looked only to please the audio geek, but this is about providing good-quality sound for everyone. It’s about simplicity.

What’s unique about the Phantom?

It’s totally wireless.

Devialet Phantom £1,390. Available Usually, big sound means from Devialet, big speakers, so we created Third Floor a very compact driver with all the latest tech. Inside the product it’s very crowded; it’s a battle between electronics, software and acoustics. The sphere is the ideal shape for producing good, even sound – hence the design. We also have an app called SPARK, which Devialet developed and created. For the first time you have one app that has all your music sources, and you can create playlists with friends.

How would you describe the sound produced by the Phantom?

Overwhelming; the standard of sound quality is just so much higher. One speaker alone is amazing, but when you connect more (up to 24) in unison, they sync and play together, and it’s just unbelievable. It’s extremely loud, but you can place a phone on the speaker and it won’t move.

What’s next for Devialet?

Devialet continues to evolve. Regular upgrades for the Phantom continually make the software better, and ensure we stay at the top of the game.

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NEWS

COOKBOOKS

fo hos

Four wheels GOOD One of the few all-leather Italian luggage lines to feature four wheels comes from Beretta, a third-generation family firm based in Milan, where 26 staff craft the luxury accessories. On a practical note, the cases’ 50/50 packing split and in-built frame lend balance and enhance protection during transportation. The main appeal, though, lies in the classic lines of each design, and linings of the finest lambskin leather – an appeal heightened by the range’s limited production of just 20 pieces per colour per size. From £3,695; exclusive to Harrods. Available from Travel Goods & Luggage, Second Floor

Jewellery with HEART

“Today, more and more people want their purchases to contribute to creating a bigger impact in people’s lives.” So says Sarah Brown, wife of former prime minister Gordon Brown, and president of charity Theirworld, which campaigns for children’s education around the globe. That ambition is realised with three new Astley Clarke bracelets (including one for children), each handmade from woven blue silk cord, with either yellow gold vermeil or sterling-silver beads. A charm inspired by Theirworld’s logo adds a finishing touch. From £60, with 20% going to Theirworld. Available from Luxury Jewellery, Ground Floor

Smart phone

Gone are the days when phones were used merely for, well, making phone calls. Today, with apps and online functionality a given, aesthetic qualities are trumping technological concerns as phones fast become fashion items. Fortunately, BlackBerry has Porsche Design on board to drive its look and feel, and the brands’ third collaboration marries sapphire glass, forged stainless steel and glass-weave technology for a streamlined effect. The keys are both elegant and durable (3D effect characters, personalised auto-correct and next-word suggestion all aid typing accuracy), while the reverse can be customised with various shades of fine Italian leather. £1,400. Available from Porsche Design, Third Floor

ith good t ste Rachel Khoo’s Kitchen Notebook An alumna of Central Saint Martins, Rachel Khoo changed career to become a high-profile chef and food writer.

Her book is filled with culinary ideas for even the most jaded cooks. £20 A Bird in the Hand

by Diana Henry Resident food writer for The Sunday Telegraph and author of six books, Diana Henry has curated a new collection of both well-known and experimental chicken dishes. £20 The Five O’Clock Apron

by Claire Thomson It is possible to work fulltime and cook healthily for yourself and your family; the Guardian’s food expert, Claire Thomson, shows you how to do it with tried-andtested recipes. £20 Where Chefs Eat An international and comprehensive guide to top places to eat, collated from respected chefs around the world including Yotam Ottolenghi, Massimo Bottura and Yoshihiro Narisawa. £14.95 White Heat 25: 25th anniversary edition

by Marco Pierre White A celebration of the well-respected, genreshaping cookbook, with new content from photographer Bob Carlos Clarke and contributions from guest chefs. £25

Available from Harrods Books & Cards, Second Floor

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COLEHERNE COURT South Kensington, SW5 A luxurious 1,352sq ft (125sq m) two-bedroom apartment is situated on the ground floor of a popular, portered mansion block. The property includes a large open-plan kitchen/reception/dining room – providing excellent space for entertaining – and two elegantly designed bedrooms, both with contemporary ensuite bathrooms and generous fitted wardrobes. There is a separate cloakroom for guests and the property has been stylishly finished throughout, featuring floor-toceiling Venetian walnut doors and Lutron lighting, with copper splashbacks and Indian stone worktops in the kitchen. Coleherne Court has beautiful communal gardens and is located close to the restaurants and amenities of Old Brompton Road and Earls Court.

EPC rating C. Leasehold: Approximately 112 years remaining Guide price: £1,999,950 020 7225 5752 john.harris@harrodsestates.com

HARRODSESTATES.COM

DERING STREET, Mayfair, W1 A beautifully designed apartment in the new Verge Mayfair development provides 786sq ft (73sq m) of luxurious living space. The reception room features floor-to-ceiling windows; folding doors lead to a custom-designed kitchen; the bedroom suite incorporates bespoke finishes; and there is a generously proportioned bathroom. Verge Mayfair benefits from a concierge service and is perfectly located for some of the capital’s best shops and restaurants. EPC rating B. Leasehold: Approximately 120 years remaining Price: £1,795,000 020 7409 9205 michael.davis@harrodsestates.com

KNIGHTSBRIDGE OFFICE: 82 BROMPTON ROAD LONDON SW3 1ER T: +44 (0)20 7225 6506 MAYFAIR OFFICE: 61 PARK LANE LONDON W1 1QF T: +44 (0)20 7409 9001 CHELSEA OFFICE: 58 FULHAM ROAD LONDON SW3 6HH T: +44 (0)20 7225 6700 HARRODSESTATES.COM

MY STYLE

MAC Lip Conditioner £11.50

In Paris for the AW14 Fashion Week

MAC eye shadow £13

At Ne o F shion ee

At London Fashion Week SS15

y style

14

e ng ison tin giel

Dior dress £1,900

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton top £2,005, trousers £2,550 and boots £1,210

Dio

One of the earliest adopters of the fashion blog and a regular subject of street-style photography, the super-stylist rose to fashion fame with her Sunday Times Style column, “Natalie Hartley Wears”. The fashion director of Glamour magazine reveals the secrets behind her look BY

How would you describe your style?

Comfortable with a slight masculine edge. I contrast my look by dressing sexier things down or casual pieces up.

You’re often papped at the fashion shows. How do you decide on your outfits?

I wear things that are true to my own style, updating basics such as jeans with new shoes or a coat. Denim is my saviour at the shows – I love it and never get tired of it.

What are your top styling tips?

Don’t wear heels if you can’t walk in them; experiment with what’s fashionable, but know your body shape and wear things that flatter you; and tackle a trend with accessories instead of head-to-toe for a cooler look.

Which trends do you favour for yourself?

I’m aware of what’s happening and will adjust my basic wardrobe accordingly, but only if I like the trends in question. Luckily denim is big this summer – but I’ll still wear it my own way. As time goes on, you define your style, but it’s important to tweak it occasionally for an up-to-date look. Working in fashion, I think you quickly tire of the big trends and adapt them for yourself in less obvious ways.

Which looks do you love on others, but not on yourself?

I love the ’90s, but it’s very “street”, so I take it on in a more refined way. The ’70s trend for SS15 is amazing too, but those A-line miniskirts and cropped jackets are more suited to a younger audience. I’d add trousers instead.

What’s your secret to mixing high and low brands?

I go for simple basics such as knits, then spend money on a few key pieces – a fabulous coat or tailored trousers.

Do you have go-to outfits for different occasions?

I have a wardrobe that works for most events, but it lacks real glam, so I tend to add cool heels to dress up a simple

pair of trousers. Off duty, I love my comfortable clothing; for work, I’m into mid-height heels with rolled-up jeans, a simple rollneck and a good coat. I seem to have a lot of coats – they’re how I change my look.

Which designers always top your shopping list?

It changes from season to season, but at the moment I’m loving Dior, Céline, Louis Vuitton, Loewe and Prada.

What’s on your SS15 wish list?

A white cotton Dior dress, Louis Vuitton’s straight-leg cropped jeans and a raw-edged high-neck Prada blouse.

How do you pack when you’re working abroad?

Very lightly! I hate taking too much stuff and then not wearing it, so I pack one outfit per day for the shows.

I only ever take what I know I love wearing. I’ve been known to take only carry-on for photoshoots abroad.

Whose style do you admire?

My grandma’s. She had a strong but uncomplicated sense of style and a knack for wearing colour.

If you could raid anyone’s wardrobe, whose wardrobe would it be?

Kate Moss’. I’m sure she has an amazing collection of clothes, especially from the ’90s.

Do you have any fashion regrets?

Never! It’s all about having fun, so if you’ve made “mistakes”, they should be embraced. I love experimenting and would never be ashamed of it.

Away from fashion, what are your beauty essentials?

A good moisturiser, a lip balm and my orange MAC eye shadow.

Available from The Colour Hall, Ground Floor; Superbrands, First Floor; Fashion Lab, Fourth Floor; and harrods.com

At London, New York and Paris Fashion Weeks Jason Lloyd-Evans; Boots Getty Images; Lip conditioner smudge Alamy; Eye shadow smudge iStock

NATALIE HARTLEY