HAIR&BEAUTY IN THE GREEN SALON
march 2018
GREEN HEROES! STOP WASTING ENERGY AND WATER 5 33 38
Introducing the life of a hairdresser Don’t you think it is time to become green? Sustainability as a marketing tool
CONTENTS Introducing the life of a hairdresser Test your company’s greenness! Stop wasting energy and Water Green Heroes! Health and Safety Test your green knowhow! Don’t you think it is time to become green? Sustainability as a marketing tool Meet the European association of national employers’ organisations in hairdressing
WWW.GREENSALON.EU
5 13 14 18 24 30 33 38 40
MAKE THE DIFFERENCE! MAKE A CHOICE! This magazine is one of the results of the Green Salon-project. This project started
as a follow-up of an EU-partnership project between schools in several countries. In that project we got knowledge and experiences that made us realize that we had a new responsibility that could not be ignored, ever again. And so we didn’t. The experiences learned us that a lot of peo-
have taken important steps to be role models
ple in this industry get sick from their work.
for health, safety and environment. As you may
But what touched me the most is the fact that
know, implementing sustainability in a sector
many hairdressers are working without being
and a market can and will take years. Therefore,
aware of the dangers. They are taking health
it is realistic to work step by step.
risks on a daily basis, just to make others look and feel beautiful. Hairdressers face problems
This magazine is a joint effort of the partici-
with their skin, washing the customers’ hair for
pating institutes in the Green Salon project to
hours without any protection. But even more
give you a better understanding of some of the
dangerous are the chemicals and acids which
problems in the hair and beauty sector. You will
are put in the products that they use. Believing
also be presented some of the ways to avoid
you are safe when using ‘organic´ products is
endangering your health as a professional hair-
unfortunately in many cases just a marketing
dresser, as a teacher or student and as a user
trick. in order to be called an ‘organic product’,
of hair and beauty products and treatments.
only 2% of the ingredients used in the product has to be organic. Meaning that the other 98%
Rest assured that from now on you will select
of the products’ ingredients can consist of dan-
your hair and beauty products with care and
gerous chemicals, which may cause allergies,
your regular visits to your own trusted hair-
can affect reproduction, and so on.
dresser will have a deeper meaning in terms of talking about health and safety.
We started the Green Salon project to develop learning material and games, because changes can be made by giving the young people the opportunity to prepare themselves in the best way for their careers in their working
Enjoy reading this magazine!
FRANK DEN HARTOG Project Coordinator, The Netherlands
life. Students entering the labour market can be the best ambassadors to introduce more sustainable ways of working, new ingredients and a different attitude towards sustainability. Every day hairdressers anywhere in Europe get sick or disabled, which is caused by their work and customers suffer from allergic reactions. It is time to make changes and understand that there are ways to do things differently in the salons as well as in the education. In this Green Salon-project, schools across Europe
MAGAZINE
3
INTRODUCING THE LIFE OF A HAIRDRESSER
DEVELOPING AWARENESS OF SUSTAINABILITY About the authors: My name is Paloma Rodríguez and I am a lecturer of Professional Guidance and Training at IES El Palo (Málaga, Spain). I have been teaching all the regulations and laws concerning the health and beauty sector to vocational students for more than twenty years. My name is Francisco Padilla Marín. I am a teacher in professional hairdressing training. Sharing my thirty years of personal experience being an employee, teacher and employer will help future generations of hairdressers to work in an honest and responsible way.
Francisco Padilla Marín: Like everybody else that finished training in hairdressing, my tasks in the beginning of my career were to sweep hair, clean the hairdressing salon and apply hair dye every now and then. Neither for cleaning and disinfection of the salon nor for the application of dyes were any health and safety measures taken. Paloma Rodríguez: When I started working at IES El Palo knowing that my students would be from the hair and beauty sector, I could not imagine to what extent I was facing such sensitive and precarious issues in the professional sector. To be honest, it took me many years to realize this. At that moment I discovered the lack of awareness of sustainability in the professional sector. I am and have been intensively dedicated to the promotion of safe working conditions in hairdressing and aesthetics and to persuade my students that their work in a hairdressing salon can be dangerous
MAGAZINE
5
for their health and for the en-
discoloured nails from clean-
research project, this time in
vironment if they do not take
ing dyes with bleach. I also suf-
the framework of an Erasmus+
measures to minimalize health
fered from a stubborn rhinitis,
program, where we could con-
and environmental risks.
that I even went through nasal
tinue what we had already
Two
fundamental
contributed
skills and sustainable develop-
dedica-
I currently suffer from an ir-
ment in the Green Salons”, is
ritant contact dermatitis that
currently ended. A lot has been
participat-
causes itching and pain when
achieved in the project (as you
ing in the Leonardo Project
getting in contact with some
will read in this magazine).
“Innovation and Sustainability
chemicals.
of
in
for
my
started. That project ,”Future
did not resolve my problem.
awareness
tion
to
septum surgery for, but which events
raising
sustainability;
the
Creative
Francisco Padilla Marín:
Industries”,
‘I still remember my hands itching, burning, discoloured and wrinkly’ wherein
I also participated in both projects that Paloma Rodríguez describes. The need for recycling and taking actions for sustainability and health, rose
Paloma Rodríguez:
training
centres
European
countries
For the first time, I became
and recycled materials were
(Denmark, United Kingdom, the
aware that there was a great
developed. The second project
Netherlands, Malta and Spain),
ignorance and minimization of
focused more specifically on
conducted numerous activities
chemical risks in the hairdress-
the sustainability and safety
and studies to promote health
ing sector, and that this ba-
within hairdressing salons.
and environment protection in
nalization had serious conse-
the hair and beauty sector. The
quences. Participating in the
Paloma Rodríguez:
other event is more personal. I
Leonardo project allowed me
I will continue demonstrating
witnessed a colleague becom-
to start researching and dis-
to my students, colleagues
ing ill after developing a mas-
covering how other European
and professionals that there
sive allergy and intolerance to
countries
the
are alternatives to transform
all products derived from the
Netherlands, and the United
the sector of hairdressing and
Amides, a very common ingre-
Kingdom) were beginning to
aesthetics, to make it more
dient in hair cosmetics.
take these health and environ-
sustainable. That is, and will
mental issues quite seriously.
be, my personal and profes-
As the project ended, we felt
sional commitment.
from
5
Francisco Padilla Marín:
awareness. Natural cosmetics
(Denmark,
During the years of my career
that we had only seen the tip
all kinds of technical processes
of the iceberg and that we had
Francisco Padilla Marín:
were developed, accompanied
many things to learn, to inves-
My advice for other hairdress-
by a substantial increase of us-
tigate, to teach and to do.
ing teachers is that we should
ing products containing chemi-
stimulate our students to be
cals such as thioglycolic acid,
Francisco Padilla Marín:
ammonia,
paraphenylenedi-
In 2010, I started as a teacher
tasks, using vinyl gloves for
amine (PPD), hydrogen perox-
in hairdressing, including visit-
head washing and perms, ni-
ide and so on. I still remember
ing students in there practical
trile gloves for applying dyes
the skin of my hands itching
period in different hairdressing
and bleaches in order to re-
and burning after working with
salons. I noticed that in many
duce health risks and work in a
those products, the top of my
of the salons the same mal-
sustainable way.
hands remaining discoloured
practices were practiced as I
after
used to do as an employer.
using
bleaches,
red-
rigorous when performing their
BY PALOMA RODRÍGUEZ
AND FRANCISCO PADILLA
dened after working on perms, wrinkled from the excess of
Paloma
water while hair washing and
cided to do another European
6
MAGAZINE
Rodríguez:
We
de-
MARÍN
(Ies El Palo, Spain)
INTRODUCING THE LIFE OF A HAIRDRESSER
YES, YOU CAN! Can one at the same time save money while paying attention to the environment and looking after themselves in the hairdressing profession? Tips by Debbie
and Lisette, second-year students all-round hairdresser at MBO College Zuid
(Amsterdam, The Netherlands). They participated in the project and learned a lot about sustainable working in a hair salon.
TIP 1: Wear gloves! is but in practice this It sounds logical, t wearing gloves! No of ten forgotten, ls are only the chemica hands harmful to your Water but also water. s and softens your hand quickly your hands will from, absorb substances poo. for example, a sham
TIP 2: Dose your sham poo! Did you know th at you use enough shampoo when you use the size of a â‚Ź 2 co in in the palm of your (gloved) ha nd? A bottle of shampoo will naturally last much longer.
TIP 4: necessarily Do not waste un TIP 3: Deepen your kn owledge of the products yo u use To create a healthy
working environme nt in the hairdressin g profession, it is important that you know the ingredient s of the products. Be aware that of ten not all ingredient s are visible at the pa ckage itself. The inter net is useful for finding pr oduct sheets that cont ain all the ingredients.
is! ry simple and so it This tip seems ve a t Pu . s are amazing Besides, the result in a prominent spot clear vase down in all h nt posit for a mo your salon and de used. paint that is not agues Make sure all colle tried We participate. and s lve this tip ourse the became aware of and unnecessar y waste pollution.
By Debbie and Lisette (second-year students all-round hairdresser at MBO College Zuid, The Netherlands)
MAGAZINE
7
WHY AND WHAT OF THE GREEN SALON PROJECT 8
MAGAZINE
The central element of this European project (Erasmus+) partners
is that the project
try to transfer the ideas and
knowledge
of
sustainability
through
information, education and training to
students, schools, employers, employees and other stakeholders in the Hair and Beauty (H&B) sector. This
project,
called
“Future
Skills
&
Sustainable Development in the Green Salon�,
aims at providing insight into
sustainability. the
project
The
are
subjects
Health
and
within
Safety,
Environment including Energy and Water, Materials
(Equipment)
and
Resources,
Customer Experience and Management (entrepreneurial skills).
Why the Green Salon project?
What and how?
Over the last years the hair and beauty sector
In the Green Salon project we have gathered
has gone through a great deal of changes. The
facts through research on management sys-
sector often has more affinity with knowledge
tems, the desired situation in a sustainable
about their profession than with other aspects
salon, competences needed to reach this situ-
of the business. Attention to labour, health
ation and research on a diagnostic scanner
and safety, environmental aspects, marketing,
to map the current situation on sustainability
service and services are crucial for successful
in a school or salon. A research report is avail-
entrepreneurship. A lot of these aspects can
able for all and downloadable at the website
be captured under the label: Sustainability &
http://www.greensalon.eu/.
Entrepreneur skills. Therefore, extra focus and attention on these subjects is very important.
The outcomes of the research are discussed with experts and the results were input for developing the scanner, a physical game, the internet awareness game, the learning material
The hairdressing sector in Europe employs
over
one
million
people
across 400.000 hairdressing salons, receiving
customers.
350
million
Hairdressing
potential services,
together with beauty treatment - the
H&B sector as it is called, form the personal care sector.
(three modules) and a final sector conference with student participation along the project. Using the competences of the different partners, their network, the experts, entrepreneurs in the sector and the teachers and students in the conferences and at home in the schools, we combine knowledge and perseverance to finalize this project in a good way.
MAGAZINE
9
USEFUL PROJECT OUTCOMES
THE GAMES
1. THE PHYSICAL SUSTAINABILITY GAME PLAYED BY HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDENTS Introduction
In the capital of Europia, called Mapton city, is
principles of Sustainability and Corporate Social
a shopping mall called ‘EuroMall’.
EuroMall is
Responsibility. The jury rewards the taken initia-
a modern shopping mall, with over 50 shops,
tives for their courage and creativity in sustain-
located in the very heart of the city centre of
able entrepreneurship and the knowledge of
Mapton. It is a completely covered shopping
and attitude towards sustainability.
centre with an enormous variety of shops, which makes it a real shop-heaven for millions
There are five nominees who are all very ea-
of shop-addicts across the country of Europia,
ger to win the title including a hair salon and
every year.
a nail salon. To win this prestigious award, the nominees still have to answer a range of ques-
The management of the city centre (area) or-
tions in different fields of knowledge, skills and
ganizes on a yearly basis the ‘enterprise of the
attitudes but also in the field of ‘knowing your
year’ award for its shops and their location man-
neighbours’. Questions including customer rela-
agers. Every year there is a central theme for
tions, recycling waste, colours and chemicals,
the award. This year the theme for the award is
water, nails and chemicals, ventilation, waste
sustainability. Who will be the most sustainable
management and ergonomics.
enterprise or shop of the year and will hold this prestigious title for the whole year, including
A jury, the management of the city centre area
lots of free publicity.
and some city council consultants on sustainability and CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility)
The
criteria
shop
or
for
the
organisation
10 MAGAZINE
are
award based
winning
and the public will decide who the winner is this
on
year.
the
Students within the project were asked to play the physical sustainability game visiting one of the partners, Bridgwater College, on sustainable working in life
generally, also including working in a hair and beauty salon. The students worked in groups. They took it in turns to play each topic and there was an overall winner. The physical sustainability game reviewed by Bridgwater College students Sophie Westlake: “One of the benefits of the game was getting to work in teams with the students from the other countries, I think that it helped all the students to bond and get acquainted. My only criticisms are that the game was very confusing in parts, so it could do with being simplified a bit.” Mel Sukevics: “The points system was quite interesting as it was very different to normal games. For example you would score a point for every question you got wrong. Every point was represented by a small bean which would then be filled into the bottle with your team name on it. This way you could clearly see which team had the most or the least amount of points.
MAGAZINE 11
2. THE GREEN SALON INTERNET GAME The Green Salon Internet game specifically
We hope you enjoy the game and invite you
aimed at providing more awareness and an in-
to use it at https://www.greensalon.eu/gaming.
teractive – fun – learning experience. The game
html.
is free to use and register, and has both an ‘exploration’ and a ‘game’ mode. In this way, (train-
Reviewing the E-game
ee) haircutters and visitors can try to beat each
Sophie Westlake (student Bridgwater College):
other’s scores and teaching professionals can
“I think that the game will be really good for rais-
store their answers and re-use the online game
ing awareness about being eco-friendly. I also
as an educational tool.
thought it was well organised with the different categories you could click on such as cutting,
The game takes the user to several different
styling, shampooing etc. which each category
work stations: Nails, Colouring, Styling, Hair
having their own set of different questions.”
Cutting, Perms and Shampooing. In every work station there are objects that the visitor can in-
Mel Sukevics (student Bridgwater College):
teract with, and then try to give the best pos-
“Overall I thought that the game was a good
sible answer. For instance, in Shampooing, one
way to reach out to future hairdressers to help
question is about the most environmentally
make salons more environmentally friendly and
friendly use of towels.
less wasteful. I did however think that the game was quite quick to play so perhaps more ques-
At the end of the game, the visitor can receive
tions could be added and also written in simpler
valuable feedback about their knowledge and
terms so that it is easier for people to read and
performance, and so increase their awareness
understand.”
and spread the message, by inviting others to beat them at the game.
12 MAGAZINE
SCORE YOUR COMPANY, SALON, HAIRDRESSERS DEPARTMENT OR EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTE ON SUSTAINABILITY! THE DIAGNOSTIC SCAN SCANS YOUR SUSTAINABLE PICTURE! The diagnostic scan is a tool that
makes a “picture” of the status of
your company, salon or hairdresser’s
department of a VET-institute regarding
The scan will be translated and available in 6 languages. The diagnostic scan will be tested in salons and at VET-institutes in Denmark, Great Britain, Spain and The Netherlands.
sustainable aspects like health, safety and environment. The scan contains three levels: basic- intermediate -
expert. The scan’s questions are divided into the following subjects:
General Questions for data statistics Health and Safety: chemicals, use of gloves and ergonomics Prevention Management
The internet application of the diagnostic
Sustainability: consumption and recycling
scan can be found at www.greensalon.eu.
Information and knowledge needs
Navigate to outputs: output 4 diagnostic scan
LEARNING MATERIAL All partners, Bridgwater College (United
environment and recycling, the following
Tech (Denmark), MBO College Zuid
module is about sustainable business
Kingdom), Ies El Palo (Spain), Aarhus
(The Netherlands) contributed to the developed learning modules. They
about prevention and risk and the last and entrepreneurship.
worked together to deliver student
More information:
teacher’s resources kits, in order to
Navigate to output 6 for the learning material.
manuals, teacher’s manuals and
implement the educational modules at hair and beauty schools. Three
modules were developed, one about the
Visit the website www.greensalon.eu.
BY FRANK DEN HARTOG (Stivako, The Netherlands)
DO IT YOURSELF!
ENERGY AND WATER A GREEN SALON VERSUS A TRADITIONAL SALON
For any hair and beauty company to
work an infrastructure that undoubtedly has costs is required. Implementing a
green salon makes us able to administer the use of non-fixed expenses such as consumption of water and electricity,
products and so on.The man likes to play chess; let’s get him some rocks. Cities
fall but they are rebuilt. Heroes die but
they are remembered. No, this is Mount Everest.
Energy and water are essential to hairdressing salons. The need to rationalize the global energy and water consumption is currently a hot topic that must be a priority today. There are multiple sources of energy, some little and others very sustainable, so it is important to know those in the market, and to choose the least polluting ones. Concerning water, there are multiple ways to economize water.
ENERGY SOURCES; NON-RENEWABLE ENERGIES. They come from fossil fuels and are so called because, either it cannot be replaced, or it takes much longer to replace it than it takes to consume it, and therefore, some day they will be finished. The main ones are nuclear energy and fossil fuels such as oil, natural gas or coal.
14 MAGAZINE
ENERGY SOURCES; RENEWABLE ENERGIES They are obtained from unlimited natural sources, such as biomass, biofuels, wind energy, geothermal, hydroelectric, tidal, wave or
solar.
These
renewable
energies,
also
called green, are divided into two categories: non-polluting (or clean) and pollutants.
Non-pollutants Wind Blue energy or osmotic power (freshwater/ saltwater) Tidal (seas and oceans), solar and wave energy (from the waves) Geothermal (Earth heat) Hydropower (rivers and freshwater streams)
Pollutants Produced from organic matter or biomass and can be used as fuel (wood or solid plant material) or converted into bioethanol, biogas or biodiesel. This type of energy emits carbon dioxide, greenhouse gas, and sometimes soot and other solid particles.
The reality is that the choice of the energy source used in our business depends almost exclusively on our electricity supplier, unless it is decided to invest in solar or photovoltaic panels, but on a daily bases, small facts can be avoided, as they consume more energy than necessary, such as large windows, open doors with the consequent consumption of heating or air conditioning, misuse of lighting and so on. It is important to know the measures to be taken to improve consumption habits and thus reduce spending.
MAGAZINE 15
WATER In hairdressing salons, the estimated average
With such a high expenditure, the use and re-
water consumption is 250 litres a day used by
use of water are two very important aspects
an employee, while in beauty salons it goes up
to take into account in a green business, be-
to 360 litres a day used by an employee. From
cause by keeping some good habits and apply-
a different perspective, a hairdresser with four
ing technology, consumption can be reduced
working stations usually spends more than
drastically.
100.000 litres of water per year, enough to take a daily 15 minutes shower for 10 years!
POSSIBLE TYPES OF INTERVENTION Use flow restrictors in all taps
Use Aquareturn® type devices on the
• It reduces the flow but maintains the
faucets as you can regulate temperature
pressure and, therefore, its efficacy.
without wasting water.
Avoid dripping of faucets or toilets • Avoiding the dripping of taps can save about €12 per year and that of cisterns several hundred euros. Close faucets when not in use.
Install a flow meter to be aware of the need to control consumption. Invest in Grey water recirculation systems. • The grey water is obtained from the washing station and the washing ma-
• Leaving the tap open while applying the
chine, this wastewater can be carried to a
shampoo or conditioner is an unneces-
small reservoir, which subsequently feeds
sary expense.
the toilet cistern.
Install dual-flush toilets with two buttons or
A pricey but worthwhile long-term invest-
handles to flush different levels of water.
ment is to install a rainwater collection
Never use the toilet as a wastebasket, as it is an illogical waste of water. • Remember that normal toilets use between 9 and 12 litres of water in each use. The washing machine must be used with
system. • The rainwater is clean and accessible, and could be used can be used safely at the washing stations, for doing laundry and for toilet flushes.
full load and, when possible, with the saving program. • Invest in a new model class A, a model that does not exceed 20 litres, while old washing machines consume approximately 80 litres per wash.
Implementing a green salon may cost 15%-25%
BY BRIDGWATER & TAUNTON COLLEGE
more than a conventional one, depending on
(United Kingdom)
the equipment installed, but this is only the initial investment because the medium or long-
IES EL PALO
term economic savings, plus the profits coming
(Spain)
from new customers interested in an environmentally friendly service, are able to amortize
MBO COLLEGE ZUID
and overcome the extra investment in a short
(The Netherlands)
time.
16 MAGAZINE
Efficiently, assuming certain ecological habits in our daily work can not only save us thousands of euros at the end of the year, but it can help to conserve the planet as well.
MAGAZINE 17
GREEN HEROES
VISITING MARCAPAR, SALON OF CHRISTIAN ROCHE IN THE CENTRE OF LYON A FRENCH BEST PRACTICE
Plant colouring, the core business of Marcapar. The
Marcapar products are compiled with great care and
is based on an excellent knowledge of the richness of nature. Years of research and testing resulted in the
development of unique green recipes that cover all hair colours. Marcapar now offers a full range of care and styling, suitable for all types of scalp and hair.
We were visiting Lyon, partner
Entering
and host of the day Valida
immediately noticed that we
Mechri
did
from
institute
IGS,
not
the
salon,
perceive
smells
we of
arranged a visit to Marcapar,
chemicals. Four of us were
owned
invited
by
Christian
Roche.
by
the
attentive
Christian Roche used to be
employees to experience the
a
hairdresser,
dye products of the salon.
but was forced to abandon
Lucinda and myself were lucky
his
of
as they picked us. The colours
dermatological issues. Looking
are all natural base. Paloma,
back
developments
our Spanish partner from IES El
since he could not perform
Palo describes her experience:
his
“Lights and shadows, because
he
professional profession on
the
because
profession states
that
anymore, his
illness
although
the
application
motivated him to develop and
process was simple, relatively
produce hair products using
fast and there was no itching
strictly green ingredients that
or
are
Christian’s
was not so easy or fast. In
interest in plants reives from
fact, even after brushing there
his father. The two took many
remained large amounts of
walks in the past looking for
product residues in my hair
plants.
and scalp. On the other hand,
sustainable.
discomfort,
the
washing
the resulting colour was of a
18 MAGAZINE
the allergies disappeared over time as the products of Marcapar do not contain toxic and sensitizing ingredients.
surprising intensity and shine, exceeding my
dark blonde to bright red. My colleague’s result
expectations. Unfortunately, once I washed my
was a very natural look. Throughout the weeks
hair it became tremendously dry and frizzy.�
the colour faded gradually, not only at the roots. I would definitely want to use the product again.
The colours did smell very earthy, similar to hen-
Finishing the day, Christian Roche invited us to
na but without the metallic salts present. To ap-
a buffet of sausages, cheeses and wines from
ply it the employee added shampoo. I was very
the winery owned by Christian Roche. For more
pleased with my hair colour after dying it, I am
information visit the website of Marcapar via
a naturally red head and the colour enhanced
www.marcapar.com.
the natural tones in my hair and it made it shine beautifully. The only disadvantage of this hair
BY KAREN MAY
product for me is the limited range of colours,
(Bridgwater College, United Kingdom)
MAGAZINE 19
GREEN HEROES
NATURAL VS SYNTHETIC HAIR COLOURING THE PROS AND CONS OF HENNA AND L’ORÉAL In June 2017, the salon of the Bridgwater College was used
as a test lab by the students Sophie Westlake, Mel Sukevics and Lydia Newman. They tested the differences between
colouring hair with Henna products and also with dye of L’Oréal through a practical approach. The students worked in pairs on a mannequin head. Their experiences in evaluating the
application, use, efficiency and aftereffects were evaluated
and translated in pros and cons of Henna hair dye and L’Oréal hair dye. After weighing pros and cons the students have
drawn conclusions choosing which product they preferred.
HENNA Pros All natural ingredients Safe for the health of the hairdresser and its client Safe for the environment Nice earthy smell
Cons Hard to mix and prepare because of the thickness Challenging to apply throughout the hair Challenging to wash out of the hair Labour-intensive Limited variety of colours The earthy smell remains after washing out the dye
20 MAGAZINE
L’ORÉAL Pros Easy to mix and prepare Easy to apply because of its fluidness After washing out the dye, the hair looks shiny and feels smooth Wide variety of colours
Cons Chemicals as ingredients Harmful for the health of the hairdresser and its client Harmful for the environment Penetrating smell of chemicals
CONCLUSION Sophie’s Westlake
it will react. If I had to choose
for stylists to actually use in a
To conclude, I think that if you
between henna and L’Oréal
salon as it would take up the
have no timing limitations,
colour, I would choose L’Oréal
majority of their working hours
henna dye is definitely better
as it is more efficient and has
and also the clients day.
as it is 100% natural and is
more of a result. When henna
a more sustainable option.
dye has been developed to
Lydia Newman’s
However in a salon, L’Oréal
process faster then I will re-
Overall, even though henna is
colour is the best option as
consider my decision.
all natural, it’s not the easiest
it is quicker and has a more
option for you to use, maybe
powerful result, as well as
Mel Sukevics
more of a variety of colours.
Overall I definitely preferred
market and research on henna
The issues with henna are
the application and also the
was taken out, there would be
that the only shades of henna
results of the L’Oréal colour as
an easier quicker way. I person-
available are different shades
it had much more of a shine
ally think that L’Oréal and other
of brown and that henna
and the colour was a lot more
hair dyes are more efficient for
takes so long to process.
intense and a nicer feel to the
a salon to use.
Henna will also react with
hair. However, I do like the idea
normal hair colour due to
of the henna hair dye as it is a
the metallic salts in it, which
more natural product and a lot
means that if you use henna
healthier for the clients but I
LYDIA NEWMAN
and do not like it, you cannot
do think that it would be much
(Bridgwater College students,
use a hair dye on your hair as
too fiddly and take far too long
United Kingdom).
if henna was higher up in the
BY SOPHIE’S WESTLAKE, MEL SUKEVICS AND
MAGAZINE 21
GREEN HEROES
A BEST PRACTICE FROM AMSTERDAM THE GREENEST HAIR SALON IN AMSTERDAM: INSTITUUT HAAR & GEZONDHEID
In 2001 a hairdressing salon, Instituut Haar &
Gezondheid (Hair & Health Institute) in Amsterdam opened focusing entirely on sustainable and safe
working. Mrs. Dianne te Mebel is the founder of this
hair salon, colouring hair with 100% natural products as its specialty.
From an early age Dianne has
editorial staff of beauty maga-
been involved with nature and
zines. That’s how more and
the environment. She attend-
more people heard about the
ed the Secondary Agricultural
Insituut Haar & Gezondheid.”
School and discovered that
Nowadays,
from
tried natural colouring once,
you can make paint with flow-
all over the country come to
you will never want to go back
ers and plants. During this
Dianne’s institute.
to chemical paint.”
customers
training she had the opportunity to do an internship in a hair
At the institute they only work
Dianne notices that sustain-
salon. This is how she ended
with natural products. All prod-
ability is not yet a focus point
up in the hairdressing profes-
ucts,
shampoos,
among hairdressers and stu-
sion. After working with chemi-
conditioners and so on, do
dents. “In schools they mostly
cal products for years, she de-
not contain animal ingredients
work with chemical products. I
cided to change course around
and are certainly not tested
like to change this, so I also pre-
the year 2000. Dianne always
on animals. From shampoos
sent the institute as a learning
wanted to do something differ-
to conditioners. The hair dye is
place and I would like students
ent from chemical dyes. Dianne:
also 100% natural, made from
to work for six months with me.”
“A customer in Oisterwijk (a
herbs, flowers and wheats.
I enjoy teaching young people
town in the Netherlands) came
Dianne: “I can tell people ex-
more about working with natu-
to me asking me if I wanted to
actly what is in my products,
ral products.”
colour her hair using Henna. I
certainly no hydrogen perox-
started experimenting with in-
ide or ammonia, but for blond
Do you want to know more about
gredients such as coffee and
hair, for example, hops, corn
the work of Dianne and the
red wine at the kitchen table.”
and malt. The products are
Insituut Haar & Gezondheid?
In Oisterwijk, there was little
better for the environment and
Visit
interest in sustainability and
the hair is also much healthier.
www.instituuthaarengezond-
off course colouring, so Dianne
Nowadays, over 80% of the
heid.nl
moved
‘the
people want to have coloured
place to be’. “I literally started
hair. I see that these people
BY PIETER VAN DER BENT
from scratch, I did a lot of pro-
are becoming more aware and
(MBO College Zuid,
motional activities and invited
want healthier hair. If you have
The Netherlands)
to
Amsterdam;
22 MAGAZINE
including
the
website
at
DIY (DO IT YOURSELF)
In addition to the institute, Dianne has also devel-
oped a line for people who prefer to dye their hair at home. Via the web shop (www.hennabrownies.com)
the consumer can order ‘Henna Brownies’, a product that makes it easy to dye your hair at home. And who
thinks the Henna Brownie is only available in red, is wrong! There are no less than 22 different colours,
ranging from blond to brown. Dianne: “In four simple steps, I explain on the website how the Henna
brownie works and you do not have to throw anything away, as residues can be stored in the freezer. By now, I receive orders from all over the world.”
HEALTH AND SAFETY
ERGONOMICS The definition of ergonomics is: “the applied science of equipment design, as for the workplace, intended to maximize productivity by reducing operator fatigue and discomfort.� Employees who daily undertake several actions during their work activities where a specific working posture is needed, obviously need
circumstances that are as pleasant and productive as possible in order to do
this as long as possible. Within the hair and beauty sector employees often work standing up and also often have to work in a stooped posture for a considerable
period of time. Approximately 40% of all employees in hair salons in Europe state
that they suffer from problems with their neck. Approximately 30% suffer from back complaints. These figures are considerable and therefore worrying. In order for employees in the hair and beauty
EQUIPMENT RISKS
sector to be sustainably employable, we need
Scissors
to improve the working conditions. Hairdressers
Scissors are the most recognizable and in-
often work standing and they use tools of a
dispensable tool of a hairdresser. The correct
certain weight during work. A good posture
ergonomic posture of the pair of scissors is a
while working is essential. An incorrect posture
relaxed posture in the hand. Important when
during work for a long time can be damaging to
purchasing is the ratio between the size of the
psychical (and presumably mental) performance.
pair of scissors and the hand. An asymmetri-
Besides, pain is usually gradually but if not dealt
cally shaped pair of scissors has a reduced risk
with early could develop into a lifelong problem.
of causing injuries. This design ensures a more
So, we have to be careful. Also, we have to take
neutral position of the fingers. The extra little
the used equipment into account. Is the used
finger support can contribute to more stabil-
equipment ergonomically designed and if it is,
ity and the distribution of the weight. In addi-
what is the right way to use it?
tion good maintenance of the pair of scissors is
PHYSICAL EFFECTS Repetitive strain injury (RSI) and varicose veins
highly relevant. Also, the use of clippers is of frequent occurrence during hairdressing. Clippers must be light weight and wireless.
are common effects of a wrong posture. RSI is a collective name for all types of complaints which
Wash basin
are interlinked because they are the result of
The wash basin implies long-term working with
long-term maintained repetitive movements.
moisture on the hands. Design and time spent
For example, by spending time too often and
working at this station influence the health of
too long in an asymmetric posture. Hairdressers
the hairdresser. A long wash basin that is too
also have an increased chance of the onset of
long for the hairdresser will automatically force
varicose veins. Too long standing up in one po-
him or her to overstretch arms and back. Long-
sition can widen the veins and this could lead to
term working in this position will dramatically
visible varicose veins. Slack blood vessel walls
increase the risk of neck and back complaints.
cause not well transported blood, and due to
The same applies to the depth of the wash
pressure on legs and feet blood vessels will
basin. The deeper the basin is, the further the
widen.
hairdresser will have to sag to reach the bottom picking up possible objects.
24 MAGAZINE
Hairdryer Blow-drying
a
model
requires
prolonged
stress of both arms. Prolonged hold of the hairdryer ensures static burdening and potential overburdening of the neck and shoulder muscles. During blow-drying a client or model, the hairdresser is repetitively using the other hand to brush the hair. These rotations put a lot of stress on forearm and wrist. A majority of the hairdressers experience the hairdryer as too heavy. Besides that, the hairdryer is an aid which produces a substantial noise for a longer time. This sometimes causes inconvenience, but also entails health risks (hearing damage) when a hairdryer produces more than 70 DB. It is important that the weight of a hairdryer is as light as possible for a pleasant long-term use. As a guide, a weight of approximately 350-500 g is held suitable for long-term use in relation to stress. Thereby, the weight balance of the hairdryer is essen-
FINGERS HANDS
tial. The focus should be above the wrist, as this delivers less strain on the muscles of the forearm and wrist joint.
SHOULDERS WRIST
Chair Risks of overburdening due to a standing up position are lurking together with the de-
ARMS
scribed varicose veins. Working standing up requires wearing comfortable shoes that should be supple but firm and not too high (a maximum of 3cm). Relief of the legs, back and neck is carried out by means of variation. A hydraulic chair can also reduce the risks. The height of the seat must be easily infinitely adjustable. The setting range of the seat is at least 45-59 cm from the floor, and the shape of the undercarriage is free, providing the chair is stable in any shape and the hairdresser is not hindered in walking or moving around the chair. Also, the hairdresser’s stool preferably has a bicycle saddle. This shape offers a significant advantage towards a round chair of fewer slips, less pressure on the upper legs, and the handle is easier to find. BY AARHUS TECH (Denmark)
MBO COLLEGE ZUID (The Netherlands) IES EL PALO (Spain)
BACK
HEALTH AND SAFETY
DERMATITIS
PREVENTING THE NUMBER ONE SKIN CONDITION The salons usually work with a wide range of cosmetic products on the basis of
both chemical and plant products. This includes activities like washing, dyeing,
bleaching, perming and styling. When undertaking these activities, hairdressers
are exposed to various products of a different nature. Often, hairdressers develop a form of skin inflammation due to contact with these products used in their
profession. The most common collective name for all types of skin inflammation is
dermatitis. The research centre for Hairdressers and Beauticians report that 30% of all hairdresser have hand dermatitis.
WHAT IS DERMATITIS?
allergy-causing substances will penetrate eas-
Dermatitis is a collective name for a skin condi-
ily deep into the skin and cause an inflammato-
tion whose common denominator is an inflam-
ry reaction. Hairdressers are often working with
mation of the skin. The term dermatitis includes
damp hair and fluids and have therefore more
the following sub disorders: eczema, diaper
risk of eczema. The majority of hairdresser has
rash, ringworm, and psoriasis. Some sub disor-
wet hands for over four hours a day!
ders appear primarily acute, such as eczema, diaper rash and others are chronic in nature.
Combination of factors
The most common chronic disorder is psoriasis.
At the origin of the infamous hairdressers’ ec-
Dermatitis is one of the common reasons for
zema, a combination of different factors often
sickness leave among hairdressers.
leads to the arising and recurring character of
HOW DOES DERMATITIS OCCUR? Irritating substances
symptoms. Changing situations such as hot and cold differences (hair dryer), exposure to irritating cosmetics, the strain of working with scissors, incorrect use of gloves and inade-
When undertaking activities within a hair salon,
quate creaming of the hands with a moisturiz-
hairdressers are exposed to various chemical
ing cream. Bacteria and allergens are given the
products. Many substances in the products
opportunity to penetrate the skin resulting in
used in the hairdressing sector are capable to
contact or hairdresser’s eczema by this cocktail
arouse an irritated skin. Think in this connection
of factors.
particularly of soap components, alcohol in gels such as hydrogen peroxide.
HOW CAN WE PREVENT SKIN DISORDERS IN THE SALON?
Water
Limit the use of irritating substances
Another damaging fluid is water. Through fre-
Avoiding the following substances will prevent
quent contact with water, the skin degreas-
skin disorders from chemicals.
and lotions and substances used for bleaching
es and dehydrates slowly but surely. On a dry ‘cracking’ skin eczema will easier strike.
Glyceryl thioglycolate (“sour” perms)
Furthermore, the barrier function of the skin
Ammonium persulfate (bleaching )
decreases by this dehydration. Irritating or
P-phenyleendiamine base (in hair dye)
26 MAGAZINE
Use vinyl gloves for washing and cutting. Nitrile gloves are suitable for the application of dyes and perm liquids.
Perfumes (in various substances, such as shampoos, stiffeners etc.) P-toluenediamine sulfate and resorcinol and in perm liquid ammonium thioglycolate
Minimize water contact Wet work must be restricted by reducing working with fluids (both water and cosmetics) to a maximum of 30 minutes per hour if working without liquid tight, non-allergenic gloves. Using gloves is also beneficial as it prevents water to contact the skin directly. Also, avoid wearing hand and wrist jewellery as it can be a risk factor. Jewellery could react on the cosmetic products that are used during the work processes. Other prevention measurements Use the correct gloves for the activity, the size and material should be appropriate. Use the gloves correctly, remember that the hands must be completely dry and hydrate them daily. Moisturize your hands regularly using decent moisturizing cream Enforce efficient working routines in order to maintain hygiene (routinely disinfecting brushes, combs, scissors, razors, clippers, towels, blow wavers and so on) within the salon
Neither 30 seconds (the time it takes to put on gloves) nor 20 cents (cost of a pair of gloves) should be inconvenient to protect the health of our hands and, consequently, the practice of our profession. BY AARHUS TECH (Denmark)
MBO COLLEGE ZUID (The Netherlands) IES EL PALO (Spain)
MAGAZINE 27
HEALTH AND SAFETY
GLOVES, NECESSITY OR OVERRATED? Hairdressing has been in my life forever. My mother and her four
sisters owned a hairdressing salon and as a child, I used to play with curlers and clips. I grew up surrounded by women who spoke about
dyes, hair styles and cuts, but above all, I grew up in an environment where the only thing that mattered in a hair salon was the customer service. During that time, I saw my mother and my aunts use gloves only for washing or the application of dark dyes. Not during the
application of light colours, because as the dye didn´t stain, it was not necessary. Gloves were not used either at the school where I learned hairdressing and beauty, and it was later, when I started
working at Wella as a technician, everything I had learned at school got turned upside down.
Currently, not all professionals use
consuming, putting them on and
gloves to perform colour works and
off. Prolonged wearing gloves and
not many use them for hair hygiene.
inappropriate use of it can produce
Indeed, no one uses them for cutting
allergies. Also, hairdressers are reliant
hair because hairdressers don´t
on their touch and wearing gloves
consider it necessary and they believe
can discomfort clients. The opposite
that they avoid precision in the
is dermatitis and possible necessary
professional and cause discomfort
abandonment of the profession.
in the client. Using gloves can be disadvantageous as it can be time
I learned the job of a hairdresser was a customer service where the only thing that mattered was client´s satisfaction without realizing the professional´s health. For me, the disproportion between
disappear if, from the beginning of their
the advantages and disadvantages
training, we teach future professionals
of working with gloves are clear, and
to work with gloves so that they ac-
that’s why I am a firm supporter of us-
quire it as a habit and do not recognize
ing them in all jobs (activities) where
those reservations. I have already real-
there is moisture, which also includes
ized that with my students of a Public
hair cutting.
Vocational School.
A priori it may seem impossible and inadequate
to
achieve
desired
re-
sults. Most of these inconveniences
28 MAGAZINE
BY ESTHER LÓPEZ MERINO (IES El Palo, Spain)
How is it possible that a neurosurgeon or a doctor can operate with gloves without their precision being affected and yet a hairdresser can´t cut the hair?
THE COSTUMER EXPERIENCE EXPERIMENT We covered the eyes of the client and cut half of her long hair with vinyl gloves and the other half without gloves. We asked her if she could tell us feeling any difference between the cut with gloves and the one without gloves. Of course she did not notice any difference and for me it was quite a discovery because the hands worked with the same ability as if they were naked.
TEST YOUR GREEN KNOWHOW! Do you think you know everything about working safely and sustainably in the hair salon? Do you know everything about cosmetics and beauty? Test your knowledge with the Green Salon Quiz! QUESTION 1:
QUESTION 7:
How much shampoo do you need to wash your
Which well-known cosmetics brand has an
hair?
academy in Madrid where they develop sustainable products?
QUESTION 2:
QUESTION 8:
As a hairdresser, you can build up an intolerance against……
How many colour shades of Henna are available?
QUESTION 3: How many cosmetic products do average wom-
QUESTION 9:
en use every day? What kind of lighting is best used in the salon? QUESTION 4:
QUESTION 10:
How many cosmetic products does the average With what product can hair be naturally dyed at
men use per day?
home? QUESTION 5:
BY PIETER VAN DE BENT
Is it an obligation to name all ingredients on the
(MBO College Zuid, The Netherlands)
packaging of a product? QUESTION 6: On what aspect do employees in a hair salon spend the least amount of time?
5: No, that is not mandatory. fewer than women.
4: Men use an average of 6 products per day, 14 3: On average, no less than 20 different products per day. 2: hairdresser eczema. 1: a pump shampoo just as big as a € 2, - coin.
ANSWERS
10: the Henna Brownie. 9: LED lamps. 8: At least 20 different colours of Henna are available. It is a myth that Henna is only red. 7: L’Oréal, the L’Oréal Green Academy? 6: Maintaining informed of chemicals in paint products.
30 MAGAZINE
A green nail salon respects people and the ecosystem by being responsive to emerging science and business sustainability. The overall purpose of a greener salon is to reduce the use or the industry dependence on harmful chemicals.
SUSTAINABILITY IN OTHER BEAUTY SEGMENTS
DON’T YOU THINK IT’S THE TIME TO BECOME GREEN? AN EMERGING GREEN BUSINESS MODEL FOR (NAIL) SALONS
Over the last decades the number of nail care salons have increased substantially, becoming a profitable, familiar business around the world. However, behind this
notable prosperity, there have been growing concerns, about allegations of poor labour conditions.
A link is found between the compound of nail
The obvious challenge for cleaner production
products and occupational diseases and even
programs is the integration of the core dimen-
environmental pollution. This link is proven to
sions of sustainable development in an afford-
be evident by numerous studies. In addition to
able way. Then, what does a Greener Salon do?
this, the occurrence of musculoskeletal disorders related to postures while working, is anoth-
A Green Salon adjusts its business plan strate-
er topic to take into account. Unfortunately, the
gies by self-examining its knowledge, its opera-
list of risks does not end here as there are also
ting practices, its equipment and its client’s de-
biological hazards coming from the exposure to
mand to integrate the sustainability principles.
infectious microbiological agents, primarily bac-
The desired effect is to reduce costs, improve
teria and fungi. The last is also found in make-
sales and become more competitive in the
up salons.
marketplace as the industry evolves, increasing their long-term profitability while improv-
Without a doubt, there is a need to change the
ing working and environmental conditions. The
way most beauty salons in general still oper-
strategies should be based on a continuous im-
ate, in order to offer a more sustainable service,
provement cycle, the plan-do-check-act, which
implementing the use of personal protective
identifies opportunities and then proposes ide-
equipment, choosing less polluting products to
as for solving problems. These efforts should
work with and the installation of appliances to
look at:
prevent, eliminate, and/or reduce risks at those small and medium nails enterprises, such as ventilation.
1. The purchase, inventory, and storage of chemicals. 2. Service characterization, utilizing best
GREEN SALONS, WHAT AND HOW?
practices and educating employees and
It is at this point that green salons come into
customer to those practices (also regarding
the picture. A green nail salon is an emerging
to chemical, ergonomic, physical, and
business customers
model and
that the
respects
ecosystem
workers, by
being
environmentally aware, but also responsive to emerging science and business sustainability. We can never forget that the nail salon workers
biological hazards protection). 3. Reducing energy use. 4. Reducing water use and wastewater generation. 5. Reducing waste generation.
handle a wide variety of cosmetics, some of which contain toxic or harmful chemicals.
MAGAZINE 33
Are you a nail salon owner that is reading this and wonders “why should my business become a Greener Nail Salon?” Let us answer your question.
The goal of a green salon is to achieve management systems that aim to realize the
mission
of
implementing
cleaner
production programs as, according to
the United Nations Environment Program
(UNEP, 1991), cleaner production is any
integrated preventive strategy applied to processes and products in order to increase efficiency and reduce risks to
human beings and the environment by continuously taking action to prevent pollution in every activity relating to processes, products, and services.
First, your company would be giving a better image. Enhanced through green business efforts, your company’s public image would be enriched and boosted. Second, the company would have lower operating costs. Saving energy, water and raw materials saves you money, but don’t forget that sending less trash to the landfill saves you money, too. Further, it would make a positive workplace. Think also that developing a positive, proactive relationship with local compliance inspectors can help you avoid liability, fines and other sanctions. It would also generate positive advertising. Green salon programs promote your business to the public and other businesses’ eyes. In respect to a positive workplace, it would create a safer workplace as well. Employees would be enjoying a safer workplace and would have one more reason to take pride in working for your company. Last but not least, it would breed a more stable customer base. Once your customers learn and check that your company is going above and beyond not only for the environment but also for their benefit, they will appreciate your efforts by giving repeated business and referrals. BY PALOMA RODRÍGUEZ (Ies El Palo, Spain)
34 MAGAZINE
THE GREEN SALON PROJECT, SOIL FOR INTERNATIONAL COLLABORATION REPORT OF THE STUDY TRIP TO SPAIN October 2016. Four students of the Hair Care program at MBO College Zuid
(Amsterdam, The Netherlands) travelled together with their teachers Pieter
van der Bent and Frans Grotenhuis to Spain. The other partners, students and
teachers from Denmark, the United Kingdom, France and Spain, also joined the
Dutch delegation. The mutual goal of being together: designing greener and more sustainable work in the hair and beauty sector.
feet language skills’. They understood each other perfectly. The various groups visited approximately thirty salons in order to experience how these salons deal with risks concerning health and environment. The
4TH OF OCTOBER
groups
presented
the
by train to Malaga, we enjoyed
first version of the diagnos-
A visit to the L’Oréal Green
the beautiful view with the
tic scan (see ‘why and what
Academy
was
fields and many olive trees.
of the Green Salon project’)
planned. A unique visit, be-
After arriving at IES El Palo, a
for the salons owners and to-
cause
in
the
Madrid
Green
partner school, the students
gether with the owners they
Academy is the only green
L’Oréal
were divided into groups, con-
discussed possible improve-
and sustainable academy in
sisting of students from dif-
ments. At first, the salon own-
the world. We were really hon-
ferent countries. Within the
ers hesitated to participate
oured to be invited. The Green
groups, the students had to
in the discussion as some of
Academy combines the appli-
conduct research in order to
them indicated that they were
cation of modern technologies
be able to answer the research
not directly concerned with
and the use of environmentally
question:
sustainable
sustainability. After participat-
friendly materials in order to
are Spanish hair and beauty
ing in the discussing all the
develop sustainable products.
salons?
salon owners had experienced
How
The academy aims at a more
the students’ visit and the di-
sustainable profession and de-
Initially,
were
agnostic scan as very instruc-
veloping a safer and healthier
concerned
possible
tive and many of them intent
one for future generations. We
communication problems be-
to implement some of the ad-
learned that developing sus-
cause of the language bar-
vices given!
tainable products is time con-
riers. However, there was no
suming and expensive.
need to worry as the students
the
teachers about
BY PIETER VAN DE BENT
were able to work together
AND FRANS GROTENHUIS
After our visit to the L’Oréal
very well and supported their
(MBO College Zuid, The
Green Academy we travelled
English with some ‘hands and
Netherlands)
MAGAZINE 35
MBO COLLEGE ZUID AIMS AT A BRIGHTER FUTURE FOR THEIR STUDENTS AND HAIRDRESSERS AN INTERVIEW WITH STAKEHOLDERS PIETER VAN DER BENT AND FRANS GROTENHUIS Pieter van der Bent, manager of education at MBO College Zuid (Amsterdam,
The Netherlands) and Frans Grotenhuis, Hair Care lecturer at MBO College Zuid
(Amsterdam, The Netherlands) share their experiences of the Green Salon Project. Why did the school participate in the Green Salon project?
Pieter van der Bent: We think it’s important for students to be aware of a more sustainable and specifically a more
water and energy. Also, hair
de Groot, second-year student
salons produce a noticeable
all-round hairdresser, was se-
amount of solid waste.
lected to participating in the
What other participants joined you in the Green Salon project? van
ment during my internship. I think the environment is very
Pieter
lons. Student should learn to
Students and teachers from
world and it is a shame to just
take good care of themselves.
MBO
throw it away”.
They should be able to mini-
together
mize the risk of occupational
tres from Spain (IES El Palo),
diseases besides learning the
Denmark (Aarhus Tech), France
skills of their future profession.
(Group IGS) and the United
with
Zuid
Bent:
concerned about the environ-
safe way of working in hair sa-
College
der
project: “I was already very
worked
training
important, we only have one
cen-
Kingdom (Bridgwater College).
How did the students perform in the international collaboration within the project?
Frans Grotenhuis: In order to
Each school (apart from Groupe
Frans
make sustainable work in the
IGS who provided technical
European Green Salon project
hairdressing salon a priority to
support to the project) chose
aims to create options to make
students during their training,
four students to participate in
the way of working in schools
teachers and students.
the project.
and salons safer and ‘greener’.
What motivated you personally to apply for this project?
Pieter van der Bent: I have
How did you choose the students that were al-
lowed to participate in the Green Salon project?
Grotenhuis:
The
We had the students decide on how they would work together. It was surprising to see how quickly that cooperation came about after some hesitation.
always been interested in sus-
Pieter van der Bent: Despite
tainability and the environ-
the fact that most of our stu-
development of five different
ment. A hair salon generates
dents are generally into other
products: this magazine, a les-
considerable
Together, they worked on the
environmental
things than sustainability, the
son series, a digital scan which
impact because of the chemi-
enthusiasm to participate in
can be used to see how ‘green’
cals that are used in the work-
the project was great. This
you are, a computer game and
ing process as well as the
made selecting only four stu-
a classic board game.
consumption of considerable
dents more difficult. Debbie
36 MAGAZINE
What did you learn from the project?
Frans Grotenhuis: In the
March 2018 and MBO College Zuid will then quickly introduce the lesson series for first-year
Netherlands we have wonder-
students. Especially for salons,
ful facilities with air condition-
a ‘diagnostic scan’ has been
ing, automated blinds and Digi
developed. Salons can test
boards, while in Malaga they
their sustainable awareness
teach in forty degrees with
and receive recommendation
a blackboard and a piece of
to improve sustainability within
chalk. The great thing is that
their salon.
as a teacher you also look differently at your field and the
Pieter van der Bent: In the
way you teach.”
new
Pieter van der Bent: It is of
Pieter van der Bent
modules,
for
example,
the pupils will develop their own green salon. The teach-
great importance to teach not
ing material is made for four
just the skills of the profession
different
but also how to deal with the
At level one, for example, stu-
demands of an ever-changing
dents create a mood board
society.
work
and at the highest level the
in the salon will not change
students actually write a com-
much in a short period of time,
plete business plan that they
it is important for salon own-
can execute. Students take
ers and employees to beware
an active part in it. There is
of new developments. My ex-
a real sense of awareness.
periences abroad have also
Debbie, for example, learned
taught me that Dutch service
to always wear gloves. This is
within salons are in need of
extremely important, because
some necessary improvement.
your hands will be soaked with
Young hairdressers need to
water which weakens the skin.
know that they must commu-
Your hands will then absorb
nicate differently with custom-
chemicals from hair products
ers than they would communi-
much quicker. For hair salons,
cate with friends. It is our job to
the diagnostic scan is availa-
teach them how to deal with
ble. Our internship supervisors
the different worlds in which
also visit salons and help them
they live and the manners that
becoming
are associated with them.”
based on the outcomes of the
Although
the
What are the results of the
educational
more
levels.
sustainable
diagnostic scan.
project?
Frans Grotenhuis: One of the results of the project is a lesson series consisting of twelve lessons. The aim of the lessons is to encourage students to work safely and sustainable in the hairdressing profession. The final presFrans Grotenhuis
entation of the Green Salon
BY FRANK DEN HARTOG
project will take place on 22
(Stivako, The Netherlands)
MAGAZINE 37
HAIR, BEAUTY,
AND CERTIFICATION STEP-BY-STEP TOWARDS A GREENER IMAGE
The hair and beauty sector is predominated by micro enterprises and small
enterprises. Over 42% is self-employed. The majority of the workforce is female, over 80%. Many employees work part-time and their careers are often short. Damaged hairdressers, aller-
BUT THERE IS MORE!
concept in cooperation with a
gic customers and the trend
Green salons also attract cus-
consultancy company; certifi-
of, read necessity for, sustain-
tomers that are aware of the
cation of groups of micro busi-
ability in every aspect of entre-
need for sustainability and,
ness and small enterprises in
preneurship makes you won-
more importantly, a green sa-
combination with a consult.
der how one thing can resolve
lon is able to treat allergic cus-
SCCI
another in a sustainable mat-
tomers. So, this could gener-
standards and sector specific
ter. The answer is implement-
ate more turnover. Therefore,
standards in a way that micro
ing a green salon business
it is necessary to promote that
business and small enterprises
model. However, implementing
you run a green salon and the
can implement the system and
a new system makes it neces-
meaning of it should be clear
work more sustainable. Also,
sary to redefine your business.
as well. Certification of green
certification of the standards
Owners of micro business and
salons increases the feasibility
is possible for the companies,
small enterprises are mostly
to market your intrinsic motiva-
via the group. Every year, an
occupied with daily operations
tion for implementing sustain-
internal audit is performed by
and therefore not able to im-
able aspects in your salon.
an SCCI auditor to judge the
plement something new that is
Your certificate is your market-
practical outcome of the sys-
very time-consuming.
ing tool in order to attract more
tem. If right, the business will
customers.
receive a group certification.
There is a way to accomplish
An
simplifies
external
internal
auditor
ISO
audits
whole new system, but by
CERTIFICATION BY SCCI IN MICRO BUSINESSES AND SMALL ENTERPRISES
implementing aspects of the
Within the Green Salon project
can enjoy the internal benefits
system step-by-step. A green
an expert of SCCI, a Dutch cer-
of the system and also use it
salon should, by all means,
tification
attended
externally as a marketing tool.
strive for no harmful chemicals,
the expert meeting. He ex-
For the hair and beauty sector
improving
occupational
plained that international leg-
a similar concept is realizable.
health and customer safety.
islation and standards can be
Implementing aspects of work-
translated into national stand-
ing
sustainable
entrepreneur-
ship, not by implementing a
the
institute,
serve
ards and even sector specific
other purposes, such as cost
standards in order to make it
saving. For example, reducing
more feasible for small com-
energy and less waste of water
panies
will save money.
SCCI has developed an unique
sustainable
38 MAGAZINE
also
to
implement
them.
SCCI. This way, certification is manageable and affordable for very small enterprises. They
BY FRANK DEN HARTOG (Stivako, The Netherlands)
COIFFURE EU: EUROPEAN ASSOCIATION OF NATIONAL EMPLOYERS’ ORGANISATIONS IN HAIRDRESSING ABOUT MIET VERHAMME:
Coiffure EU is a European network of some twenty
national hairdressing employers’ organisations. The
After having been in charge of
mission of Coiffure EU is to contribute to favourable
the coordination of European
conditions and high professional standards for
grant applications for the fish-
hairdressers in Europe in general and notably
ery industry, she became an
employers. The leading theme of Coiffure EU is
advisor of the Flemish minis-
‘business development instead of marginalisation’. If
ter of Agriculture and Fishery.
Coiffure EU wants to contribute to the development of the hairdressing sector education, craftsmanship and entrepreneurship should be improved.
In this context she also took part in negotiations for fishing quotas at a European level. Afterwards she worked
In addition to promoting the in-
level. Miet Verhamme expects
for
terests of the hairdressers-em-
that sustainability will still grow
ment, more specifically for
the
Flemish
govern-
ployers in different European
in importance.
the Flemish minister of Work and the Flemish minister of
organisations and agencies, the organization supports in-
Coiffure
developed
Education. In this role she was
formation exchange between
several activities and projects
mainly in charge of the nego-
the members, providing a fo-
in this field over the years.
tiations with the different in-
EU
has
dustries. At the department
rum for discussion of affairs which are important for the
BY FRANK DEN HARTOG
of Education, she was Head
hairdressing
(Stivako, The Netherlands)
of the section Research and
sector
in
the
Development of Vocational
member countries.
Educational Training, a secThe EU Commission organizes consultation meetings - Social Dialogue meetings - between on the one hand the EU Social Partners and on the other hand the EU Commission itself. The executive secretariat of Coiffure EU is located in Ghent,
Coiffure
EU
recognized European
has
been
by
the
Commission
as the representative of the European employers’ organisations
in
hairdressing the
Our
services. Since 1998 the
is
Dialogue
conversation Miet
sectoral
in
Belgium.
Verhamme,
partner advisor
European policy & European projects. She points out the focus areas of Coiffure EU concerning sustainability, health and safety. Indeed, Health and
on
Social
personal
hairdressing sector has
been the only sector of SME (small to mediumsized was
enterprise)
able
to
opportunity.
use
that
this
tion specialised in European projects in the context of the link between education and employment. From 2013 onwards,
Miet
Verhamme
has worked as an Advisor in European Policy & Projects for Coiffure EU. In this respect she writes conceptual notes to the EU Commission, the Social Dialogue, the Board of Directors and the General Assembly
of
Coiffure
EU.
Furthermore, she assists in developing the strategic policy of the president and the secretary general. In addi-
Safety and Environment are
tion, she develops and coor-
important issues on European
dinates EU projects.
40 MAGAZINE
1. CAPACITY BUILDING - IMPLEMENTATION OF THE AGREEMENT ON HEALTH & SAFETY
4. EU-PROJECT ERGOHAIR
Since 2005 the social partners have been work-
of this EU-funded project is to help develop a
ing towards a EU agreement on health and safe-
healthy and safe work environment in the hair-
ty in the hairdressing sector. Only in 2012 the
dressing sector. To accomplish this aim, the ca-
European framework agreement was signed.
pacity of the social dialogue on European and
But the agreement has already been the object
national level needs to be enhanced in order
of much attention when several publications,
to promote effective ergonomic workstations
mainly from the UK, reviewed it and were not
in the small and medium sized hairdressing
satisfied about the content. After the 2014 EU
salons. More information can be found on the
elections, negotiations with the EU Commission
website: www.ergohair.eu.
were resumed.
An ongoing project is Ergohair. The objective
social conditions and stress were removed from
5. N EGOTIATIONS WITH COSMETIC EUROPE REGARDING THE REPLACEMENT OF THE SKIN TESTING METHOD BY A SCIENTIFICALLY BASED QUESTIONNAIRE
the agreement. The Commission also wanted
The Social Partners in the Personal Services
the self-employed section to be removed from
Social Dialogue Committee are very concerned
the agreement and decided to apply an impact
about the current way of dealing with the skin
assessment and an additional legal advice to
testing method. At this moment, the cosmet-
the agreement. In June 2016 an agreement on
ics industry is doing research in order to obtain
health and safety was signed but only by both
a new approach for the skin testing method.
social partners. To this day, the agreement is
Both social partners sent different letters to
not yet converted into binding EU legislation for
Commissioner Bienkowska in order to express
all EU countries.
the strong concern on “Self-testing for contact
As a result of these new negotiations with the Commission, the Pregnancy policy, Psycho-
sensitization to hair dyes”.
2. TRANSNATIONAL EUROPEAN SOCIAL FUND PROJECT “A CLOSE SHAVE”
They are both convinced that the responsibil-
In the context of this EU project desk research
be shifted to the individual hairdressers. Both
was carried out on good practices from seven-
social partners, Coiffure EU and UNI Europa,
teen EU countries. The following items have
share the scientific considerations and clinical
been developed: an instruction video, two man-
concerns of the European Society of Contact
uals with background information for teachers
Dermatitis (ESCD) and other European Scientific
(preventing skin complaints and ergonomics
Committees, whose arguments are detailed in
for start-up hairdressers), supporting material,
the enclosed joint position.
namely ‘take care of yourself’ sheets regarding
ity of the manufacturer cannot and should not
six subjects, which consists of visual informa-
6. ENVIRONMENT
tion and some main concerns. To avoid these
Environment is also an important issue in the
sheets to be thrown away (by the touch of wet
policy of Coiffure EU. A full program for a con-
hands, use of chemical products), they have
gress on environment (Waste and recycling from
been laminated.
a new perspective) had been developed but it
3. EU-SAFE HAIR PROJECT Safe hair provides information on the research projects and on “Skin Protection in Hairdressing”. The project website (www.safehair.eu) provides information for employees, employers, trainers and trainees.
had to be cancelled due to the 2016 Brussels bombings.
THE GREEN PUZZLE WHAT SEVEN ITEM SHOULD A GREEN SALON HAVE?
Answers: GLOVES
X
L
Q
N
V
X
H
F
Y
I
LEDS
MASKS
Y
O
U
N
H
S
I
B
Y
T
PLANTS
RECYCLING
G
P
R
S
K
S
G
O
W
P
VENTING
WATER SAVERS
J
O
M
S
T
Y
N
I
A
Z
O
Q
A
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F
W
I
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T
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V
M
A
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V
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S
BY PALOMA RODRÍGUEZ (Ies El Palo, Spain)
42 MAGAZINE
COLOFON Future Skills & Sustainable Development in the Green Salon is a European project that aims to combine the sustainable ideas through educa-
The Green Salon project team consists of the following persons from the five participating countries:
tion and training with innovative ideas within the sector. This project has been funded with support from the European Commission. This publication reflects the views only of the author, and the Commission cannot be held responsible for any use which may be made of the information contained therein.
Project partners within this program are:
AARHUS TECH - Denmark Lene Rishede, Louise Okon Willie IES EL PALO - Spain Paloma Rodríguez Bonilla, Esther López Merino, Marta Guillén Munoz IGS - France Valida Mechri, Malgorzata Woch BRIDGWATER COLLEGE - Great Britain Karen May, Lucinda Vaughan, Jon Harding © 2018 Green Salon project, Erasmus+
ROC VAN AMSTERDAM - The Netherlands
2015-1-NL01-KA202-008844. No part of this
Pieter van der Bent, Frans Grotenhuis
document may be reproduced in any form
STIVAKO - The Netherlands
without the authorisation of Stivako (project
Eva Bouwman, Frank den Hartog
coordinator) and the author.
Contact address: Stivako Boeingavenue 207 1119 PD Schiphol-Rijk The Netherlands tel. +31 20 5435670 info@stivako.nl Project website: www.greensalon.eu
SkillsDEVELOPMENT FUTURE SKILLSFuture & SUSTAINABLE IN THE GREEN SALON development Sustainable
The Green Salon project transfers the ideas and
knowledge
on
sustainability
through
information, education and training to students, schools,
employers,
employees
and
other
stakeholders in the Hair and Beauty (H&B) sector.
www.greensalon.eu
The aim is providing insight into sustainability.
People
Planet
Profit
CSR