Hair & beauty in the Green Salon

HAIR&BEAUTY IN THE GREEN SALON

march 2018

GREEN HEROES! STOP WASTING ENERGY AND WATER 5 33 38

Introducing the life of a hairdresser Don’t you think it is time to become green?

Sustainability as a marketing tool

CONTENTS Introducing the life of a hairdresser Test your company’s greenness!

Stop wasting energy and Water Green Heroes!

Health and Safety Test your green knowhow!

Don’t you think it is time to become green?

Sustainability as a marketing tool Meet the European association of national employers’ organisations in hairdressing

WWW.GREENSALON.EU

5 13 14 18 24 30 33 38 40

MAKE THE DIFFERENCE! MAKE A CHOICE! This magazine is one of the results of the Green Salon-project. This project started

as a follow-up of an EU-partnership project between schools in several countries. In that project we got knowledge and experiences that made us realize that we had a new responsibility that could not be ignored, ever again. And so we didn’t.

The experiences learned us that a lot of peo-

have taken important steps to be role models

ple in this industry get sick from their work.

for health, safety and environment. As you may

But what touched me the most is the fact that

know, implementing sustainability in a sector

many hairdressers are working without being

and a market can and will take years. Therefore,

aware of the dangers. They are taking health

it is realistic to work step by step.

risks on a daily basis, just to make others look and feel beautiful. Hairdressers face problems

This magazine is a joint effort of the partici-

with their skin, washing the customers’ hair for

pating institutes in the Green Salon project to

hours without any protection. But even more

give you a better understanding of some of the

dangerous are the chemicals and acids which

problems in the hair and beauty sector. You will

are put in the products that they use. Believing

also be presented some of the ways to avoid

you are safe when using ‘organic´ products is

endangering your health as a professional hair-

unfortunately in many cases just a marketing

dresser, as a teacher or student and as a user

trick. in order to be called an ‘organic product’,

of hair and beauty products and treatments.

only 2% of the ingredients used in the product has to be organic. Meaning that the other 98%

Rest assured that from now on you will select

of the products’ ingredients can consist of dan-

your hair and beauty products with care and

gerous chemicals, which may cause allergies,

your regular visits to your own trusted hair-

can affect reproduction, and so on.

dresser will have a deeper meaning in terms of talking about health and safety.

We started the Green Salon project to develop learning material and games, because changes can be made by giving the young people the opportunity to prepare themselves in the best way for their careers in their working

Enjoy reading this magazine!

FRANK DEN HARTOG Project Coordinator, The Netherlands

life. Students entering the labour market can be the best ambassadors to introduce more sustainable ways of working, new ingredients and a different attitude towards sustainability.

Every day hairdressers anywhere in Europe get sick or disabled, which is caused by their work and customers suffer from allergic reactions.

It is time to make changes and understand that there are ways to do things differently in the salons as well as in the education. In this Green Salon-project, schools across Europe

MAGAZINE

3

INTRODUCING THE LIFE OF A HAIRDRESSER

DEVELOPING AWARENESS OF SUSTAINABILITY About the authors: My name is Paloma Rodríguez and I am a lecturer of Professional Guidance and Training at IES El Palo (Málaga, Spain). I have been teaching all the regulations and laws concerning the health and beauty sector to vocational students for more than twenty years.

My name is Francisco Padilla Marín. I am a teacher in professional hairdressing training. Sharing my thirty years of personal experience being an employee, teacher and employer will help future generations of hairdressers to work in an honest and responsible way.

Francisco Padilla Marín: Like everybody else that finished training in hairdressing, my tasks in the beginning of my career were to sweep hair, clean the hairdressing salon and apply hair dye every now and then.

Neither for cleaning and disinfection of the salon nor for the application of dyes were any health and safety measures taken.

Paloma Rodríguez: When I started working at IES El Palo knowing that my students would be from the hair and beauty sector, I could not imagine to what extent I was facing such sensitive and precarious issues in the professional sector. To be honest, it took me many years to realize this. At that moment I discovered the lack of awareness of sustainability in the professional sector. I am and have been intensively dedicated to the promotion of safe working conditions in hairdressing and aesthetics and to persuade my students that their work in a hairdressing salon can be dangerous

MAGAZINE

5

for their health and for the en-

discoloured nails from clean-

research project, this time in

vironment if they do not take

ing dyes with bleach. I also suf-

the framework of an Erasmus+

measures to minimalize health

fered from a stubborn rhinitis,

program, where we could con-

and environmental risks.

that I even went through nasal

tinue what we had already

Two

fundamental

contributed

skills and sustainable develop-

dedica-

I currently suffer from an ir-

ment in the Green Salons”, is

ritant contact dermatitis that

currently ended. A lot has been

participat-

causes itching and pain when

achieved in the project (as you

ing in the Leonardo Project

getting in contact with some

will read in this magazine).

“Innovation and Sustainability

chemicals.

of

in

for

my

started. That project ,”Future

did not resolve my problem.

awareness

tion

to

septum surgery for, but which events

raising

sustainability;

the

Creative

Francisco Padilla Marín:

Industries”,

‘I still remember my hands itching, burning, discoloured and wrinkly’ wherein

I also participated in both projects that Paloma Rodríguez describes. The need for recycling and taking actions for sustainability and health, rose

Paloma Rodríguez:

training

centres

European

countries

For the first time, I became

and recycled materials were

(Denmark, United Kingdom, the

aware that there was a great

developed. The second project

Netherlands, Malta and Spain),

ignorance and minimization of

focused more specifically on

conducted numerous activities

chemical risks in the hairdress-

the sustainability and safety

and studies to promote health

ing sector, and that this ba-

within hairdressing salons.

and environment protection in

nalization had serious conse-

the hair and beauty sector. The

quences. Participating in the

Paloma Rodríguez:

other event is more personal. I

Leonardo project allowed me

I will continue demonstrating

witnessed a colleague becom-

to start researching and dis-

to my students, colleagues

ing ill after developing a mas-

covering how other European

and professionals that there

sive allergy and intolerance to

countries

the

are alternatives to transform

all products derived from the

Netherlands, and the United

the sector of hairdressing and

Amides, a very common ingre-

Kingdom) were beginning to

aesthetics, to make it more

dient in hair cosmetics.

take these health and environ-

sustainable. That is, and will

mental issues quite seriously.

be, my personal and profes-

As the project ended, we felt

sional commitment.

from

5

Francisco Padilla Marín:

awareness. Natural cosmetics

(Denmark,

During the years of my career

that we had only seen the tip

all kinds of technical processes

of the iceberg and that we had

Francisco Padilla Marín:

were developed, accompanied

many things to learn, to inves-

My advice for other hairdress-

by a substantial increase of us-

tigate, to teach and to do.

ing teachers is that we should

ing products containing chemi-

stimulate our students to be

cals such as thioglycolic acid,

Francisco Padilla Marín:

ammonia,

paraphenylenedi-

In 2010, I started as a teacher

tasks, using vinyl gloves for

amine (PPD), hydrogen perox-

in hairdressing, including visit-

head washing and perms, ni-

ide and so on. I still remember

ing students in there practical

trile gloves for applying dyes

the skin of my hands itching

period in different hairdressing

and bleaches in order to re-

and burning after working with

salons. I noticed that in many

duce health risks and work in a

those products, the top of my

of the salons the same mal-

sustainable way.

hands remaining discoloured

practices were practiced as I

after

used to do as an employer.

using

bleaches,

red-

rigorous when performing their

BY PALOMA RODRÍGUEZ

AND FRANCISCO PADILLA

dened after working on perms, wrinkled from the excess of

Paloma

water while hair washing and

cided to do another European

6

MAGAZINE

Rodríguez:

We

de-

MARÍN

(Ies El Palo, Spain)

INTRODUCING THE LIFE OF A HAIRDRESSER

YES, YOU CAN! Can one at the same time save money while paying attention to the environment and looking after themselves in the hairdressing profession? Tips by Debbie

and Lisette, second-year students all-round hairdresser at MBO College Zuid

(Amsterdam, The Netherlands). They participated in the project and learned a lot about sustainable working in a hair salon.

TIP 1: Wear gloves! is but in practice this It sounds logical, t wearing gloves! No of ten forgotten, ls are only the chemica hands harmful to your Water but also water. s and softens your hand quickly your hands will from, absorb substances poo. for example, a sham

TIP 2: Dose your sham poo!

Did you know th at you use enough shampoo when you use the size of a â‚Ź 2 co in in the palm of your (gloved) ha nd? A bottle of shampoo will naturally last much longer.

TIP 4: necessarily Do not waste un TIP 3: Deepen your kn owledge of the products yo u use To create a healthy

working environme nt in the hairdressin g profession, it is important that you know the ingredient s of the products.

Be aware that of ten not all ingredient s are visible at the pa ckage itself. The inter net is useful for finding pr oduct sheets that cont ain all the ingredients.

is! ry simple and so it This tip seems ve a t Pu . s are amazing Besides, the result in a prominent spot clear vase down in all h nt posit for a mo your salon and de used. paint that is not agues Make sure all colle tried We participate. and s lve this tip ourse the became aware of and unnecessar y waste pollution.

By Debbie and Lisette (second-year students all-round hairdresser at MBO College Zuid, The Netherlands)

MAGAZINE

7

WHY AND WHAT OF THE GREEN SALON PROJECT 8

MAGAZINE

The central element of this European project (Erasmus+) partners

is that the project

try to transfer the ideas and

knowledge

of

sustainability

through

information, education and training to

students, schools, employers, employees and other stakeholders in the Hair and Beauty (H&B) sector.

This

project,

called

“Future

Skills

&

Sustainable Development in the Green Salon�,

aims at providing insight into

sustainability. the

project

The

are

subjects

Health

and

within

Safety,

Environment including Energy and Water, Materials

(Equipment)

and

Resources,

Customer Experience and Management (entrepreneurial skills).

Why the Green Salon project?

What and how?

Over the last years the hair and beauty sector

In the Green Salon project we have gathered

has gone through a great deal of changes. The

facts through research on management sys-

sector often has more affinity with knowledge

tems, the desired situation in a sustainable

about their profession than with other aspects

salon, competences needed to reach this situ-

of the business. Attention to labour, health

ation and research on a diagnostic scanner

and safety, environmental aspects, marketing,

to map the current situation on sustainability

service and services are crucial for successful

in a school or salon. A research report is avail-

entrepreneurship. A lot of these aspects can

able for all and downloadable at the website

be captured under the label: Sustainability &

http://www.greensalon.eu/.

Entrepreneur skills. Therefore, extra focus and attention on these subjects is very important.

The outcomes of the research are discussed with experts and the results were input for developing the scanner, a physical game, the internet awareness game, the learning material

The hairdressing sector in Europe employs

over

one

million

people

across 400.000 hairdressing salons, receiving

customers.

350

million

Hairdressing

potential services,

together with beauty treatment - the

H&B sector as it is called, form the personal care sector.

(three modules) and a final sector conference with student participation along the project.

Using the competences of the different partners, their network, the experts, entrepreneurs in the sector and the teachers and students in the conferences and at home in the schools, we combine knowledge and perseverance to finalize this project in a good way.

MAGAZINE

9

USEFUL PROJECT OUTCOMES

THE GAMES

1. THE PHYSICAL SUSTAINABILITY GAME PLAYED BY HAIR AND BEAUTY STUDENTS Introduction

In the capital of Europia, called Mapton city, is

principles of Sustainability and Corporate Social

a shopping mall called ‘EuroMall’.

EuroMall is

Responsibility. The jury rewards the taken initia-

a modern shopping mall, with over 50 shops,

tives for their courage and creativity in sustain-

located in the very heart of the city centre of

able entrepreneurship and the knowledge of

Mapton. It is a completely covered shopping

and attitude towards sustainability.

centre with an enormous variety of shops, which makes it a real shop-heaven for millions

There are five nominees who are all very ea-

of shop-addicts across the country of Europia,

ger to win the title including a hair salon and

every year.

a nail salon. To win this prestigious award, the nominees still have to answer a range of ques-

The management of the city centre (area) or-

tions in different fields of knowledge, skills and

ganizes on a yearly basis the ‘enterprise of the

attitudes but also in the field of ‘knowing your

year’ award for its shops and their location man-

neighbours’. Questions including customer rela-

agers. Every year there is a central theme for

tions, recycling waste, colours and chemicals,

the award. This year the theme for the award is

water, nails and chemicals, ventilation, waste

sustainability. Who will be the most sustainable

management and ergonomics.

enterprise or shop of the year and will hold this prestigious title for the whole year, including

A jury, the management of the city centre area

lots of free publicity.

and some city council consultants on sustainability and CSR (Corporate Social Responsibility)

The

criteria

shop

or

for

the

organisation

10 MAGAZINE

are

award based

winning

and the public will decide who the winner is this

on

year.

the

Students within the project were asked to play the physical sustainability game visiting one of the partners, Bridgwater College, on sustainable working in life

generally, also including working in a hair and beauty salon. The students worked in groups. They took it in turns to play each topic and there was an overall winner.

The physical sustainability game reviewed by Bridgwater College students Sophie Westlake: “One of the benefits of the game was getting to work in teams with the students from the other countries, I think that it helped all the students to bond and get acquainted. My only criticisms are that the game was very confusing in parts, so it could do with being simplified a bit.”

Mel Sukevics: “The points system was quite interesting as it was very different to normal games. For example you would score a point for every question you got wrong. Every point was represented by a small bean which would then be filled into the bottle with your team name on it. This way you could clearly see which team had the most or the least amount of points.

MAGAZINE 11

2. THE GREEN SALON INTERNET GAME The Green Salon Internet game specifically

We hope you enjoy the game and invite you

aimed at providing more awareness and an in-

to use it at https://www.greensalon.eu/gaming.

teractive – fun – learning experience. The game

html.

is free to use and register, and has both an ‘exploration’ and a ‘game’ mode. In this way, (train-

Reviewing the E-game

ee) haircutters and visitors can try to beat each

Sophie Westlake (student Bridgwater College):

other’s scores and teaching professionals can

“I think that the game will be really good for rais-

store their answers and re-use the online game

ing awareness about being eco-friendly. I also

as an educational tool.

thought it was well organised with the different categories you could click on such as cutting,

The game takes the user to several different

styling, shampooing etc. which each category

work stations: Nails, Colouring, Styling, Hair

having their own set of different questions.”

Cutting, Perms and Shampooing. In every work station there are objects that the visitor can in-

Mel Sukevics (student Bridgwater College):

teract with, and then try to give the best pos-

“Overall I thought that the game was a good

sible answer. For instance, in Shampooing, one

way to reach out to future hairdressers to help

question is about the most environmentally

make salons more environmentally friendly and

friendly use of towels.

less wasteful. I did however think that the game was quite quick to play so perhaps more ques-

At the end of the game, the visitor can receive

tions could be added and also written in simpler

valuable feedback about their knowledge and

terms so that it is easier for people to read and

performance, and so increase their awareness

understand.”

and spread the message, by inviting others to beat them at the game.

12 MAGAZINE

SCORE YOUR COMPANY, SALON, HAIRDRESSERS DEPARTMENT OR EDUCATIONAL INSTITUTE ON SUSTAINABILITY! THE DIAGNOSTIC SCAN SCANS YOUR SUSTAINABLE PICTURE! The diagnostic scan is a tool that

makes a “picture” of the status of

your company, salon or hairdresser’s

department of a VET-institute regarding

The scan will be translated and available in 6 languages. The diagnostic scan will be tested in salons and at VET-institutes in Denmark, Great Britain, Spain and The Netherlands.

sustainable aspects like health, safety and environment. The scan contains three levels: basic- intermediate -

expert. The scan’s questions are divided into the following subjects:

General Questions for data statistics Health and Safety: chemicals, use of gloves and ergonomics Prevention Management

The internet application of the diagnostic

Sustainability: consumption and recycling

scan can be found at www.greensalon.eu.

Information and knowledge needs

Navigate to outputs: output 4 diagnostic scan

LEARNING MATERIAL All partners, Bridgwater College (United

environment and recycling, the following

Tech (Denmark), MBO College Zuid

module is about sustainable business

Kingdom), Ies El Palo (Spain), Aarhus

(The Netherlands) contributed to the developed learning modules. They

about prevention and risk and the last and entrepreneurship.

worked together to deliver student

More information:

teacher’s resources kits, in order to

Navigate to output 6 for the learning material.

manuals, teacher’s manuals and

implement the educational modules at hair and beauty schools. Three

modules were developed, one about the

Visit the website www.greensalon.eu.

BY FRANK DEN HARTOG (Stivako, The Netherlands)

DO IT YOURSELF!

ENERGY AND WATER A GREEN SALON VERSUS A TRADITIONAL SALON

For any hair and beauty company to

work an infrastructure that undoubtedly has costs is required. Implementing a

green salon makes us able to administer the use of non-fixed expenses such as consumption of water and electricity,

products and so on.The man likes to play chess; let’s get him some rocks. Cities

fall but they are rebuilt. Heroes die but

they are remembered. No, this is Mount Everest.

Energy and water are essential to hairdressing salons. The need to rationalize the global energy and water consumption is currently a hot topic that must be a priority today. There are multiple sources of energy, some little and others very sustainable, so it is important to know those in the market, and to choose the least polluting ones. Concerning water, there are multiple ways to economize water.

ENERGY SOURCES; NON-RENEWABLE ENERGIES. They come from fossil fuels and are so called because, either it cannot be replaced, or it takes much longer to replace it than it takes to consume it, and therefore, some day they will be finished. The main ones are nuclear energy and fossil fuels such as oil, natural gas or coal.

14 MAGAZINE

ENERGY SOURCES; RENEWABLE ENERGIES They are obtained from unlimited natural sources, such as biomass, biofuels, wind energy, geothermal, hydroelectric, tidal, wave or

solar.

These

renewable

energies,

also

called green, are divided into two categories: non-polluting (or clean) and pollutants.

Non-pollutants Wind Blue energy or osmotic power (freshwater/ saltwater) Tidal (seas and oceans), solar and wave energy (from the waves) Geothermal (Earth heat) Hydropower (rivers and freshwater streams)

Pollutants Produced from organic matter or biomass and can be used as fuel (wood or solid plant material) or converted into bioethanol, biogas or biodiesel. This type of energy emits carbon dioxide, greenhouse gas, and sometimes soot and other solid particles.

The reality is that the choice of the energy source used in our business depends almost exclusively on our electricity supplier, unless it is decided to invest in solar or photovoltaic panels, but on a daily bases, small facts can be avoided, as they consume more energy than necessary, such as large windows, open doors with the consequent consumption of heating or air conditioning, misuse of lighting and so on. It is important to know the measures to be taken to improve consumption habits and thus reduce spending.

MAGAZINE 15

WATER In hairdressing salons, the estimated average

With such a high expenditure, the use and re-

water consumption is 250 litres a day used by

use of water are two very important aspects

an employee, while in beauty salons it goes up

to take into account in a green business, be-

to 360 litres a day used by an employee. From

cause by keeping some good habits and apply-

a different perspective, a hairdresser with four

ing technology, consumption can be reduced

working stations usually spends more than

drastically.

100.000 litres of water per year, enough to take a daily 15 minutes shower for 10 years!

POSSIBLE TYPES OF INTERVENTION Use flow restrictors in all taps

Use Aquareturn® type devices on the

• It reduces the flow but maintains the

faucets as you can regulate temperature

pressure and, therefore, its efficacy.

without wasting water.

Avoid dripping of faucets or toilets • Avoiding the dripping of taps can save about €12 per year and that of cisterns several hundred euros.

Close faucets when not in use.

Install a flow meter to be aware of the need to control consumption.

Invest in Grey water recirculation systems.

• The grey water is obtained from the washing station and the washing ma-

• Leaving the tap open while applying the

chine, this wastewater can be carried to a

shampoo or conditioner is an unneces-

small reservoir, which subsequently feeds

sary expense.

the toilet cistern.

Install dual-flush toilets with two buttons or

A pricey but worthwhile long-term invest-

handles to flush different levels of water.

ment is to install a rainwater collection

Never use the toilet as a wastebasket, as it is an illogical waste of water.

• Remember that normal toilets use between 9 and 12 litres of water in each use.

The washing machine must be used with

system.

• The rainwater is clean and accessible, and could be used can be used safely at the washing stations, for doing laundry and for toilet flushes.

full load and, when possible, with the saving program.

• Invest in a new model class A, a model that does not exceed 20 litres, while old washing machines consume approximately 80 litres per wash.

Implementing a green salon may cost 15%-25%

BY BRIDGWATER & TAUNTON COLLEGE

more than a conventional one, depending on

(United Kingdom)

the equipment installed, but this is only the initial investment because the medium or long-

IES EL PALO

term economic savings, plus the profits coming

(Spain)

from new customers interested in an environmentally friendly service, are able to amortize

MBO COLLEGE ZUID

and overcome the extra investment in a short

(The Netherlands)

time.

16 MAGAZINE

Efficiently, assuming certain ecological habits in our daily work can not only save us thousands of euros at the end of the year, but it can help to conserve the planet as well.

MAGAZINE 17

GREEN HEROES

VISITING MARCAPAR, SALON OF CHRISTIAN ROCHE IN THE CENTRE OF LYON A FRENCH BEST PRACTICE

Plant colouring, the core business of Marcapar. The

Marcapar products are compiled with great care and

is based on an excellent knowledge of the richness of nature. Years of research and testing resulted in the

development of unique green recipes that cover all hair colours. Marcapar now offers a full range of care and styling, suitable for all types of scalp and hair.

We were visiting Lyon, partner

Entering

and host of the day Valida

immediately noticed that we

Mechri

did

from

institute

IGS,

not

the

salon,

perceive

smells

we of

arranged a visit to Marcapar,

chemicals. Four of us were

owned

invited

by

Christian

Roche.

by

the

attentive

Christian Roche used to be

employees to experience the

a

hairdresser,

dye products of the salon.

but was forced to abandon

Lucinda and myself were lucky

his

of

as they picked us. The colours

dermatological issues. Looking

are all natural base. Paloma,

back

developments

our Spanish partner from IES El

since he could not perform

Palo describes her experience:

his

“Lights and shadows, because

he

professional profession on

the

because

profession states

that

anymore, his

illness

although

the

application

motivated him to develop and

process was simple, relatively

produce hair products using

fast and there was no itching

strictly green ingredients that

or

are

Christian’s

was not so easy or fast. In

interest in plants reives from

fact, even after brushing there

his father. The two took many

remained large amounts of

walks in the past looking for

product residues in my hair

plants.

and scalp. On the other hand,

sustainable.

discomfort,

the

washing

the resulting colour was of a

18 MAGAZINE

the allergies disappeared over time as the products of Marcapar do not contain toxic and sensitizing ingredients.

surprising intensity and shine, exceeding my

dark blonde to bright red. My colleague’s result

expectations. Unfortunately, once I washed my

was a very natural look. Throughout the weeks

hair it became tremendously dry and frizzy.�

the colour faded gradually, not only at the roots.

I would definitely want to use the product again.

The colours did smell very earthy, similar to hen-

Finishing the day, Christian Roche invited us to

na but without the metallic salts present. To ap-

a buffet of sausages, cheeses and wines from

ply it the employee added shampoo. I was very

the winery owned by Christian Roche. For more

pleased with my hair colour after dying it, I am

information visit the website of Marcapar via

a naturally red head and the colour enhanced

www.marcapar.com.

the natural tones in my hair and it made it shine beautifully. The only disadvantage of this hair

BY KAREN MAY

product for me is the limited range of colours,

(Bridgwater College, United Kingdom)

MAGAZINE 19

GREEN HEROES

NATURAL VS SYNTHETIC HAIR COLOURING THE PROS AND CONS OF HENNA AND L’ORÉAL In June 2017, the salon of the Bridgwater College was used

as a test lab by the students Sophie Westlake, Mel Sukevics and Lydia Newman. They tested the differences between

colouring hair with Henna products and also with dye of L’Oréal through a practical approach. The students worked in pairs on a mannequin head. Their experiences in evaluating the

application, use, efficiency and aftereffects were evaluated

and translated in pros and cons of Henna hair dye and L’Oréal hair dye. After weighing pros and cons the students have

drawn conclusions choosing which product they preferred.

HENNA Pros All natural ingredients Safe for the health of the hairdresser and its client Safe for the environment Nice earthy smell

Cons Hard to mix and prepare because of the thickness Challenging to apply throughout the hair Challenging to wash out of the hair Labour-intensive Limited variety of colours The earthy smell remains after washing out the dye

20 MAGAZINE

L’ORÉAL Pros Easy to mix and prepare Easy to apply because of its fluidness After washing out the dye, the hair looks shiny and feels smooth Wide variety of colours

Cons Chemicals as ingredients Harmful for the health of the hairdresser and its client Harmful for the environment Penetrating smell of chemicals

CONCLUSION Sophie’s Westlake

it will react. If I had to choose

for stylists to actually use in a

To conclude, I think that if you

between henna and L’Oréal

salon as it would take up the

have no timing limitations,

colour, I would choose L’Oréal

majority of their working hours

henna dye is definitely better

as it is more efficient and has

and also the clients day.

as it is 100% natural and is

more of a result. When henna

a more sustainable option.

dye has been developed to

Lydia Newman’s

However in a salon, L’Oréal

process faster then I will re-

Overall, even though henna is

colour is the best option as

consider my decision.

all natural, it’s not the easiest

it is quicker and has a more

option for you to use, maybe

powerful result, as well as

Mel Sukevics

more of a variety of colours.

Overall I definitely preferred

market and research on henna

The issues with henna are

the application and also the

was taken out, there would be

that the only shades of henna

results of the L’Oréal colour as

an easier quicker way. I person-

available are different shades

it had much more of a shine

ally think that L’Oréal and other

of brown and that henna

and the colour was a lot more

hair dyes are more efficient for

takes so long to process.

intense and a nicer feel to the

a salon to use.

Henna will also react with

hair. However, I do like the idea

normal hair colour due to

of the henna hair dye as it is a

the metallic salts in it, which

more natural product and a lot

means that if you use henna

healthier for the clients but I

LYDIA NEWMAN

and do not like it, you cannot

do think that it would be much

(Bridgwater College students,

use a hair dye on your hair as

too fiddly and take far too long

United Kingdom).

if henna was higher up in the

BY SOPHIE’S WESTLAKE, MEL SUKEVICS AND

MAGAZINE 21

GREEN HEROES

A BEST PRACTICE FROM AMSTERDAM THE GREENEST HAIR SALON IN AMSTERDAM: INSTITUUT HAAR & GEZONDHEID

In 2001 a hairdressing salon, Instituut Haar &

Gezondheid (Hair & Health Institute) in Amsterdam opened focusing entirely on sustainable and safe

working. Mrs. Dianne te Mebel is the founder of this

hair salon, colouring hair with 100% natural products as its specialty.

From an early age Dianne has

editorial staff of beauty maga-

been involved with nature and

zines. That’s how more and

the environment. She attend-

more people heard about the

ed the Secondary Agricultural

Insituut Haar & Gezondheid.”

School and discovered that

Nowadays,

from

tried natural colouring once,

you can make paint with flow-

all over the country come to

you will never want to go back

ers and plants. During this

Dianne’s institute.

to chemical paint.”

customers

training she had the opportunity to do an internship in a hair

At the institute they only work

Dianne notices that sustain-

salon. This is how she ended

with natural products. All prod-

ability is not yet a focus point

up in the hairdressing profes-

ucts,

shampoos,

among hairdressers and stu-

sion. After working with chemi-

conditioners and so on, do

dents. “In schools they mostly

cal products for years, she de-

not contain animal ingredients

work with chemical products. I

cided to change course around

and are certainly not tested

like to change this, so I also pre-

the year 2000. Dianne always

on animals. From shampoos

sent the institute as a learning

wanted to do something differ-

to conditioners. The hair dye is

place and I would like students

ent from chemical dyes. Dianne:

also 100% natural, made from

to work for six months with me.”

“A customer in Oisterwijk (a

herbs, flowers and wheats.

I enjoy teaching young people

town in the Netherlands) came

Dianne: “I can tell people ex-

more about working with natu-

to me asking me if I wanted to

actly what is in my products,

ral products.”

colour her hair using Henna. I

certainly no hydrogen perox-

started experimenting with in-

ide or ammonia, but for blond

Do you want to know more about

gredients such as coffee and

hair, for example, hops, corn

the work of Dianne and the

red wine at the kitchen table.”

and malt. The products are

Insituut Haar & Gezondheid?

In Oisterwijk, there was little

better for the environment and

Visit

interest in sustainability and

the hair is also much healthier.

www.instituuthaarengezond-

off course colouring, so Dianne

Nowadays, over 80% of the

heid.nl

moved

‘the

people want to have coloured

place to be’. “I literally started

hair. I see that these people

BY PIETER VAN DER BENT

from scratch, I did a lot of pro-

are becoming more aware and

(MBO College Zuid,

motional activities and invited

want healthier hair. If you have

The Netherlands)

to

Amsterdam;

22 MAGAZINE

including

the

website

at

DIY (DO IT YOURSELF)

In addition to the institute, Dianne has also devel-

oped a line for people who prefer to dye their hair at home. Via the web shop (www.hennabrownies.com)

the consumer can order ‘Henna Brownies’, a product that makes it easy to dye your hair at home. And who

thinks the Henna Brownie is only available in red, is wrong! There are no less than 22 different colours,

ranging from blond to brown. Dianne: “In four simple steps, I explain on the website how the Henna

brownie works and you do not have to throw anything away, as residues can be stored in the freezer.

By now, I receive orders from all over the world.”

HEALTH AND SAFETY

ERGONOMICS The definition of ergonomics is: “the applied science of equipment design, as for the workplace, intended to maximize productivity by reducing operator fatigue and discomfort.� Employees who daily undertake several actions during their work activities where a specific working posture is needed, obviously need

circumstances that are as pleasant and productive as possible in order to do

this as long as possible. Within the hair and beauty sector employees often work standing up and also often have to work in a stooped posture for a considerable

period of time. Approximately 40% of all employees in hair salons in Europe state

that they suffer from problems with their neck. Approximately 30% suffer from back complaints. These figures are considerable and therefore worrying.

In order for employees in the hair and beauty

EQUIPMENT RISKS

sector to be sustainably employable, we need

Scissors

to improve the working conditions. Hairdressers

Scissors are the most recognizable and in-

often work standing and they use tools of a

dispensable tool of a hairdresser. The correct

certain weight during work. A good posture

ergonomic posture of the pair of scissors is a

while working is essential. An incorrect posture

relaxed posture in the hand. Important when

during work for a long time can be damaging to

purchasing is the ratio between the size of the

psychical (and presumably mental) performance.

pair of scissors and the hand. An asymmetri-

Besides, pain is usually gradually but if not dealt

cally shaped pair of scissors has a reduced risk

with early could develop into a lifelong problem.

of causing injuries. This design ensures a more

So, we have to be careful. Also, we have to take

neutral position of the fingers. The extra little

the used equipment into account. Is the used

finger support can contribute to more stabil-

equipment ergonomically designed and if it is,

ity and the distribution of the weight. In addi-

what is the right way to use it?

tion good maintenance of the pair of scissors is

PHYSICAL EFFECTS Repetitive strain injury (RSI) and varicose veins

highly relevant. Also, the use of clippers is of frequent occurrence during hairdressing. Clippers must be light weight and wireless.

are common effects of a wrong posture. RSI is a collective name for all types of complaints which

Wash basin

are interlinked because they are the result of

The wash basin implies long-term working with

long-term maintained repetitive movements.

moisture on the hands. Design and time spent

For example, by spending time too often and

working at this station influence the health of

too long in an asymmetric posture. Hairdressers

the hairdresser. A long wash basin that is too

also have an increased chance of the onset of

long for the hairdresser will automatically force

varicose veins. Too long standing up in one po-

him or her to overstretch arms and back. Long-

sition can widen the veins and this could lead to

term working in this position will dramatically

visible varicose veins. Slack blood vessel walls

increase the risk of neck and back complaints.

cause not well transported blood, and due to

The same applies to the depth of the wash

pressure on legs and feet blood vessels will

basin. The deeper the basin is, the further the

widen.

hairdresser will have to sag to reach the bottom picking up possible objects.

24 MAGAZINE

Hairdryer Blow-drying

a

model

requires

prolonged

stress of both arms. Prolonged hold of the hairdryer ensures static burdening and potential overburdening of the neck and shoulder muscles. During blow-drying a client or model, the hairdresser is repetitively using the other hand to brush the hair. These rotations put a lot of stress on forearm and wrist. A majority of the hairdressers experience the hairdryer as too heavy. Besides that, the hairdryer is an aid which produces a substantial noise for a longer time. This sometimes causes inconvenience, but also entails health risks (hearing damage) when a hairdryer produces more than 70 DB. It is important that the weight of a hairdryer is as light as possible for a pleasant long-term use. As a guide, a weight of approximately 350-500 g is held suitable for long-term use in relation to stress. Thereby, the weight balance of the hairdryer is essen-

FINGERS HANDS

tial. The focus should be above the wrist, as this delivers less strain on the muscles of the forearm and wrist joint.

SHOULDERS WRIST

Chair Risks of overburdening due to a standing up position are lurking together with the de-

ARMS

scribed varicose veins. Working standing up requires wearing comfortable shoes that should be supple but firm and not too high (a maximum of 3cm). Relief of the legs, back and neck is carried out by means of variation. A hydraulic chair can also reduce the risks. The height of the seat must be easily infinitely adjustable. The setting range of the seat is at least 45-59 cm from the floor, and the shape of the undercarriage is free, providing the chair is stable in any shape and the hairdresser is not hindered in walking or moving around the chair. Also, the hairdresser’s stool preferably has a bicycle saddle. This shape offers a significant advantage towards a round chair of fewer slips, less pressure on the upper legs, and the handle is easier to find.

BY AARHUS TECH (Denmark)

MBO COLLEGE ZUID (The Netherlands) IES EL PALO (Spain)

BACK

HEALTH AND SAFETY

DERMATITIS

PREVENTING THE NUMBER ONE SKIN CONDITION The salons usually work with a wide range of cosmetic products on the basis of

both chemical and plant products. This includes activities like washing, dyeing,

bleaching, perming and styling. When undertaking these activities, hairdressers

are exposed to various products of a different nature. Often, hairdressers develop a form of skin inflammation due to contact with these products used in their

profession. The most common collective name for all types of skin inflammation is

dermatitis. The research centre for Hairdressers and Beauticians report that 30% of all hairdresser have hand dermatitis.

WHAT IS DERMATITIS?

allergy-causing substances will penetrate eas-

Dermatitis is a collective name for a skin condi-

ily deep into the skin and cause an inflammato-

tion whose common denominator is an inflam-

ry reaction. Hairdressers are often working with

mation of the skin. The term dermatitis includes

damp hair and fluids and have therefore more

the following sub disorders: eczema, diaper

risk of eczema. The majority of hairdresser has

rash, ringworm, and psoriasis. Some sub disor-

wet hands for over four hours a day!

ders appear primarily acute, such as eczema, diaper rash and others are chronic in nature.

Combination of factors

The most common chronic disorder is psoriasis.

At the origin of the infamous hairdressers’ ec-

Dermatitis is one of the common reasons for

zema, a combination of different factors often

sickness leave among hairdressers.

leads to the arising and recurring character of

HOW DOES DERMATITIS OCCUR? Irritating substances

symptoms. Changing situations such as hot and cold differences (hair dryer), exposure to irritating cosmetics, the strain of working with scissors, incorrect use of gloves and inade-

When undertaking activities within a hair salon,

quate creaming of the hands with a moisturiz-

hairdressers are exposed to various chemical

ing cream. Bacteria and allergens are given the

products. Many substances in the products

opportunity to penetrate the skin resulting in

used in the hairdressing sector are capable to

contact or hairdresser’s eczema by this cocktail

arouse an irritated skin. Think in this connection

of factors.

particularly of soap components, alcohol in gels such as hydrogen peroxide.

HOW CAN WE PREVENT SKIN DISORDERS IN THE SALON?

Water

Limit the use of irritating substances

Another damaging fluid is water. Through fre-

Avoiding the following substances will prevent

quent contact with water, the skin degreas-

skin disorders from chemicals.

and lotions and substances used for bleaching

es and dehydrates slowly but surely. On a dry ‘cracking’ skin eczema will easier strike.

Glyceryl thioglycolate (“sour” perms)

Furthermore, the barrier function of the skin

Ammonium persulfate (bleaching )

decreases by this dehydration. Irritating or

P-phenyleendiamine base (in hair dye)

26 MAGAZINE

Use vinyl gloves for washing and cutting.

Nitrile gloves are suitable for the application of dyes and perm liquids.

Perfumes (in various substances, such as shampoos, stiffeners etc.)

P-toluenediamine sulfate and resorcinol and in perm liquid ammonium thioglycolate

Minimize water contact Wet work must be restricted by reducing working with fluids (both water and cosmetics) to a maximum of 30 minutes per hour if working without liquid tight, non-allergenic gloves. Using gloves is also beneficial as it prevents water to contact the skin directly. Also, avoid wearing hand and wrist jewellery as it can be a risk factor. Jewellery could react on the cosmetic products that are used during the work processes.

Other prevention measurements Use the correct gloves for the activity, the size and material should be appropriate.

Use the gloves correctly, remember that the hands must be completely dry and hydrate them daily.

Moisturize your hands regularly using decent moisturizing cream Enforce efficient working routines in order to maintain hygiene (routinely disinfecting brushes, combs, scissors, razors, clippers, towels, blow wavers and so on) within the salon

Neither 30 seconds (the time it takes to put on gloves) nor 20 cents (cost of a pair of gloves) should be inconvenient to protect the health of our hands and, consequently, the practice of our profession.

BY AARHUS TECH (Denmark)

MBO COLLEGE ZUID (The Netherlands) IES EL PALO (Spain)

MAGAZINE 27

HEALTH AND SAFETY

GLOVES, NECESSITY OR OVERRATED? Hairdressing has been in my life forever. My mother and her four

sisters owned a hairdressing salon and as a child, I used to play with curlers and clips. I grew up surrounded by women who spoke about

dyes, hair styles and cuts, but above all, I grew up in an environment where the only thing that mattered in a hair salon was the customer service. During that time, I saw my mother and my aunts use gloves only for washing or the application of dark dyes. Not during the

application of light colours, because as the dye didn´t stain, it was not necessary. Gloves were not used either at the school where I learned hairdressing and beauty, and it was later, when I started

working at Wella as a technician, everything I had learned at school got turned upside down.

Currently, not all professionals use

consuming, putting them on and

gloves to perform colour works and

off. Prolonged wearing gloves and

not many use them for hair hygiene.

inappropriate use of it can produce

Indeed, no one uses them for cutting

allergies. Also, hairdressers are reliant

hair because hairdressers don´t

on their touch and wearing gloves

consider it necessary and they believe

can discomfort clients. The opposite

that they avoid precision in the

is dermatitis and possible necessary

professional and cause discomfort

abandonment of the profession.

in the client. Using gloves can be disadvantageous as it can be time

I learned the job of a hairdresser was a customer service where the only thing that mattered was client´s satisfaction without realizing the professional´s health.

For me, the disproportion between

disappear if, from the beginning of their

the advantages and disadvantages

training, we teach future professionals

of working with gloves are clear, and

to work with gloves so that they ac-

that’s why I am a firm supporter of us-

quire it as a habit and do not recognize

ing them in all jobs (activities) where

those reservations. I have already real-

there is moisture, which also includes

ized that with my students of a Public

hair cutting.

Vocational School.

A priori it may seem impossible and inadequate

to

achieve

desired

re-

sults. Most of these inconveniences

28 MAGAZINE

BY ESTHER LÓPEZ MERINO (IES El Palo, Spain)

How is it possible that a neurosurgeon or a doctor can operate with gloves without their precision being affected and yet a hairdresser can´t cut the hair?

THE COSTUMER EXPERIENCE EXPERIMENT We covered the eyes of the client and cut half of her long hair with vinyl gloves and the other half without gloves. We asked her if she could tell us feeling any difference between the cut with gloves and the one without gloves. Of course she did not notice any difference and for me it was quite a discovery because the hands worked with the same ability as if they were naked.

TEST YOUR GREEN KNOWHOW! Do you think you know everything about working safely and sustainably in the hair salon? Do you know everything about cosmetics and beauty? Test your knowledge with the Green Salon Quiz!

QUESTION 1:

QUESTION 7:

How much shampoo do you need to wash your

Which well-known cosmetics brand has an

hair?

academy in Madrid where they develop sustainable products?

QUESTION 2:

QUESTION 8:

As a hairdresser, you can build up an intolerance against……

How many colour shades of Henna are available?

QUESTION 3: How many cosmetic products do average wom-

QUESTION 9:

en use every day?

What kind of lighting is best used in the salon?

QUESTION 4:

QUESTION 10:

How many cosmetic products does the average With what product can hair be naturally dyed at

men use per day?

home?

QUESTION 5:

BY PIETER VAN DE BENT

Is it an obligation to name all ingredients on the

(MBO College Zuid, The Netherlands)

packaging of a product?

QUESTION 6: On what aspect do employees in a hair salon spend the least amount of time?

5: No, that is not mandatory. fewer than women.

4: Men use an average of 6 products per day, 14 3: On average, no less than 20 different products per day.

2: hairdresser eczema.

1: a pump shampoo just as big as a € 2, - coin.

ANSWERS

10: the Henna Brownie.

9: LED lamps.

8: At least 20 different colours of Henna are available. It is a myth that Henna is only red.

7: L’Oréal, the L’Oréal Green Academy?

6: Maintaining informed of chemicals in paint products.

30 MAGAZINE

A green nail salon respects people and the ecosystem by being responsive to emerging science and business sustainability. The overall purpose of a greener salon is to reduce the use or the industry dependence on harmful chemicals.

SUSTAINABILITY IN OTHER BEAUTY SEGMENTS

DON’T YOU THINK IT’S THE TIME TO BECOME GREEN? AN EMERGING GREEN BUSINESS MODEL FOR (NAIL) SALONS

Over the last decades the number of nail care salons have increased substantially, becoming a profitable, familiar business around the world. However, behind this

notable prosperity, there have been growing concerns, about allegations of poor labour conditions.

A link is found between the compound of nail

The obvious challenge for cleaner production

products and occupational diseases and even

programs is the integration of the core dimen-

environmental pollution. This link is proven to

sions of sustainable development in an afford-

be evident by numerous studies. In addition to

able way. Then, what does a Greener Salon do?

this, the occurrence of musculoskeletal disorders related to postures while working, is anoth-

A Green Salon adjusts its business plan strate-

er topic to take into account. Unfortunately, the

gies by self-examining its knowledge, its opera-

list of risks does not end here as there are also

ting practices, its equipment and its client’s de-

biological hazards coming from the exposure to

mand to integrate the sustainability principles.

infectious microbiological agents, primarily bac-

The desired effect is to reduce costs, improve

teria and fungi. The last is also found in make-

sales and become more competitive in the

up salons.

marketplace as the industry evolves, increasing their long-term profitability while improv-

Without a doubt, there is a need to change the

ing working and environmental conditions. The

way most beauty salons in general still oper-

strategies should be based on a continuous im-

ate, in order to offer a more sustainable service,

provement cycle, the plan-do-check-act, which

implementing the use of personal protective

identifies opportunities and then proposes ide-

equipment, choosing less polluting products to

as for solving problems. These efforts should

work with and the installation of appliances to

look at:

prevent, eliminate, and/or reduce risks at those small and medium nails enterprises, such as ventilation.

1. The purchase, inventory, and storage of chemicals.

2. Service characterization, utilizing best

GREEN SALONS, WHAT AND HOW?

practices and educating employees and

It is at this point that green salons come into

customer to those practices (also regarding

the picture. A green nail salon is an emerging

to chemical, ergonomic, physical, and

business customers

model and

that the

respects

ecosystem

workers, by

being

environmentally aware, but also responsive to emerging science and business sustainability.

We can never forget that the nail salon workers

biological hazards protection).

3. Reducing energy use.

4. Reducing water use and wastewater generation.

5. Reducing waste generation.

handle a wide variety of cosmetics, some of which contain toxic or harmful chemicals.

MAGAZINE 33

Are you a nail salon owner that is reading this and wonders “why should my business become a Greener Nail Salon?” Let us answer your question.

The goal of a green salon is to achieve management systems that aim to realize the

mission

of

implementing

cleaner

production programs as, according to

the United Nations Environment Program

(UNEP, 1991), cleaner production is any

integrated preventive strategy applied to processes and products in order to increase efficiency and reduce risks to

human beings and the environment by continuously taking action to prevent pollution in every activity relating to processes, products, and services.

First, your company would be giving a better image. Enhanced through green business efforts, your company’s public image would be enriched and boosted. Second, the company would have lower operating costs. Saving energy, water and raw materials saves you money, but don’t forget that sending less trash to the landfill saves you money, too. Further, it would make a positive workplace. Think also that developing a positive, proactive relationship with local compliance inspectors can help you avoid liability, fines and other sanctions. It would also generate positive advertising. Green salon programs promote your business to the public and other businesses’ eyes. In respect to a positive workplace, it would create a safer workplace as well.

Employees would be enjoying a safer workplace and would have one more reason to take pride in working for your company. Last but not least, it would breed a more stable customer base.

Once your customers learn and check that your company is going above and beyond not only for the environment but also for their benefit, they will appreciate your efforts by giving repeated business and referrals.

BY PALOMA RODRÍGUEZ (Ies El Palo, Spain)

34 MAGAZINE

THE GREEN SALON PROJECT, SOIL FOR INTERNATIONAL COLLABORATION REPORT OF THE STUDY TRIP TO SPAIN October 2016. Four students of the Hair Care program at MBO College Zuid

(Amsterdam, The Netherlands) travelled together with their teachers Pieter

van der Bent and Frans Grotenhuis to Spain. The other partners, students and

teachers from Denmark, the United Kingdom, France and Spain, also joined the

Dutch delegation. The mutual goal of being together: designing greener and more sustainable work in the hair and beauty sector.

feet language skills’. They understood each other perfectly.

The various groups visited approximately thirty salons in order to experience how these salons deal with risks concerning health and environment.

The

4TH OF OCTOBER

groups

presented

the

by train to Malaga, we enjoyed

first version of the diagnos-

A visit to the L’Oréal Green

the beautiful view with the

tic scan (see ‘why and what

Academy

was

fields and many olive trees.

of the Green Salon project’)

planned. A unique visit, be-

After arriving at IES El Palo, a

for the salons owners and to-

cause

in

the

Madrid

Green

partner school, the students

gether with the owners they

Academy is the only green

L’Oréal

were divided into groups, con-

discussed possible improve-

and sustainable academy in

sisting of students from dif-

ments. At first, the salon own-

the world. We were really hon-

ferent countries. Within the

ers hesitated to participate

oured to be invited. The Green

groups, the students had to

in the discussion as some of

Academy combines the appli-

conduct research in order to

them indicated that they were

cation of modern technologies

be able to answer the research

not directly concerned with

and the use of environmentally

question:

sustainable

sustainability. After participat-

friendly materials in order to

are Spanish hair and beauty

ing in the discussing all the

develop sustainable products.

salons?

salon owners had experienced

How

The academy aims at a more

the students’ visit and the di-

sustainable profession and de-

Initially,

were

agnostic scan as very instruc-

veloping a safer and healthier

concerned

possible

tive and many of them intent

one for future generations. We

communication problems be-

to implement some of the ad-

learned that developing sus-

cause of the language bar-

vices given!

tainable products is time con-

riers. However, there was no

suming and expensive.

need to worry as the students

the

teachers about

BY PIETER VAN DE BENT

were able to work together

AND FRANS GROTENHUIS

After our visit to the L’Oréal

very well and supported their

(MBO College Zuid, The

Green Academy we travelled

English with some ‘hands and

Netherlands)

MAGAZINE 35

MBO COLLEGE ZUID AIMS AT A BRIGHTER FUTURE FOR THEIR STUDENTS AND HAIRDRESSERS AN INTERVIEW WITH STAKEHOLDERS PIETER VAN DER BENT AND FRANS GROTENHUIS Pieter van der Bent, manager of education at MBO College Zuid (Amsterdam,

The Netherlands) and Frans Grotenhuis, Hair Care lecturer at MBO College Zuid

(Amsterdam, The Netherlands) share their experiences of the Green Salon Project.

Why did the school participate in the Green Salon project?

Pieter van der Bent: We think it’s important for students to be aware of a more sustainable and specifically a more

water and energy. Also, hair

de Groot, second-year student

salons produce a noticeable

all-round hairdresser, was se-

amount of solid waste.

lected to participating in the

What other participants joined you in the Green Salon project? van

ment during my internship. I think the environment is very

Pieter

lons. Student should learn to

Students and teachers from

world and it is a shame to just

take good care of themselves.

MBO

throw it away”.

They should be able to mini-

together

mize the risk of occupational

tres from Spain (IES El Palo),

diseases besides learning the

Denmark (Aarhus Tech), France

skills of their future profession.

(Group IGS) and the United

with

Zuid

Bent:

concerned about the environ-

safe way of working in hair sa-

College

der

project: “I was already very

worked

training

important, we only have one

cen-

Kingdom (Bridgwater College).

How did the students perform in the international collaboration within the project?

Frans Grotenhuis: In order to

Each school (apart from Groupe

Frans

make sustainable work in the

IGS who provided technical

European Green Salon project

hairdressing salon a priority to

support to the project) chose

aims to create options to make

students during their training,

four students to participate in

the way of working in schools

teachers and students.

the project.

and salons safer and ‘greener’.

What motivated you personally to apply for this project?

Pieter van der Bent: I have

How did you choose the students that were al-

lowed to participate in the Green Salon project?

Grotenhuis:

The

We had the students decide on how they would work together.

It was surprising to see how quickly that cooperation came about after some hesitation.

always been interested in sus-

Pieter van der Bent: Despite

tainability and the environ-

the fact that most of our stu-

development of five different

ment. A hair salon generates

dents are generally into other

products: this magazine, a les-

considerable

Together, they worked on the

environmental

things than sustainability, the

son series, a digital scan which

impact because of the chemi-

enthusiasm to participate in

can be used to see how ‘green’

cals that are used in the work-

the project was great. This

you are, a computer game and

ing process as well as the

made selecting only four stu-

a classic board game.

consumption of considerable

dents more difficult. Debbie

36 MAGAZINE

What did you learn from the project?

Frans Grotenhuis: In the

March 2018 and MBO College Zuid will then quickly introduce the lesson series for first-year

Netherlands we have wonder-

students. Especially for salons,

ful facilities with air condition-

a ‘diagnostic scan’ has been

ing, automated blinds and Digi

developed. Salons can test

boards, while in Malaga they

their sustainable awareness

teach in forty degrees with

and receive recommendation

a blackboard and a piece of

to improve sustainability within

chalk. The great thing is that

their salon.

as a teacher you also look differently at your field and the

Pieter van der Bent: In the

way you teach.”

new

Pieter van der Bent: It is of

Pieter van der Bent

modules,

for

example,

the pupils will develop their own green salon. The teach-

great importance to teach not

ing material is made for four

just the skills of the profession

different

but also how to deal with the

At level one, for example, stu-

demands of an ever-changing

dents create a mood board

society.

work

and at the highest level the

in the salon will not change

students actually write a com-

much in a short period of time,

plete business plan that they

it is important for salon own-

can execute. Students take

ers and employees to beware

an active part in it. There is

of new developments. My ex-

a real sense of awareness.

periences abroad have also

Debbie, for example, learned

taught me that Dutch service

to always wear gloves. This is

within salons are in need of

extremely important, because

some necessary improvement.

your hands will be soaked with

Young hairdressers need to

water which weakens the skin.

know that they must commu-

Your hands will then absorb

nicate differently with custom-

chemicals from hair products

ers than they would communi-

much quicker. For hair salons,

cate with friends. It is our job to

the diagnostic scan is availa-

teach them how to deal with

ble. Our internship supervisors

the different worlds in which

also visit salons and help them

they live and the manners that

becoming

are associated with them.”

based on the outcomes of the

Although

the

What are the results of the

educational

more

levels.

sustainable

diagnostic scan.

project?

Frans Grotenhuis: One of the results of the project is a lesson series consisting of twelve lessons. The aim of the lessons is to encourage students to work safely and sustainable in the hairdressing profession. The final presFrans Grotenhuis

entation of the Green Salon

BY FRANK DEN HARTOG

project will take place on 22

(Stivako, The Netherlands)

MAGAZINE 37

HAIR, BEAUTY,

AND CERTIFICATION STEP-BY-STEP TOWARDS A GREENER IMAGE

The hair and beauty sector is predominated by micro enterprises and small

enterprises. Over 42% is self-employed. The majority of the workforce is female, over 80%. Many employees work part-time and their careers are often short.

Damaged hairdressers, aller-

BUT THERE IS MORE!

concept in cooperation with a

gic customers and the trend

Green salons also attract cus-

consultancy company; certifi-

of, read necessity for, sustain-

tomers that are aware of the

cation of groups of micro busi-

ability in every aspect of entre-

need for sustainability and,

ness and small enterprises in

preneurship makes you won-

more importantly, a green sa-

combination with a consult.

der how one thing can resolve

lon is able to treat allergic cus-

SCCI

another in a sustainable mat-

tomers. So, this could gener-

standards and sector specific

ter. The answer is implement-

ate more turnover. Therefore,

standards in a way that micro

ing a green salon business

it is necessary to promote that

business and small enterprises

model. However, implementing

you run a green salon and the

can implement the system and

a new system makes it neces-

meaning of it should be clear

work more sustainable. Also,

sary to redefine your business.

as well. Certification of green

certification of the standards

Owners of micro business and

salons increases the feasibility

is possible for the companies,

small enterprises are mostly

to market your intrinsic motiva-

via the group. Every year, an

occupied with daily operations

tion for implementing sustain-

internal audit is performed by

and therefore not able to im-

able aspects in your salon.

an SCCI auditor to judge the

plement something new that is

Your certificate is your market-

practical outcome of the sys-

very time-consuming.

ing tool in order to attract more

tem. If right, the business will

customers.

receive a group certification.

There is a way to accomplish

An

simplifies

external

internal

auditor

ISO

audits

whole new system, but by

CERTIFICATION BY SCCI IN MICRO BUSINESSES AND SMALL ENTERPRISES

implementing aspects of the

Within the Green Salon project

can enjoy the internal benefits

system step-by-step. A green

an expert of SCCI, a Dutch cer-

of the system and also use it

salon should, by all means,

tification

attended

externally as a marketing tool.

strive for no harmful chemicals,

the expert meeting. He ex-

For the hair and beauty sector

improving

occupational

plained that international leg-

a similar concept is realizable.

health and customer safety.

islation and standards can be

Implementing aspects of work-

translated into national stand-

ing

sustainable

entrepreneur-

ship, not by implementing a

the

institute,

serve

ards and even sector specific

other purposes, such as cost

standards in order to make it

saving. For example, reducing

more feasible for small com-

energy and less waste of water

panies

will save money.

SCCI has developed an unique

sustainable

38 MAGAZINE

also

to

implement

them.

SCCI. This way, certification is manageable and affordable for very small enterprises. They

BY FRANK DEN HARTOG (Stivako, The Netherlands)

COIFFURE EU: EUROPEAN ASSOCIATION OF NATIONAL EMPLOYERS’ ORGANISATIONS IN HAIRDRESSING ABOUT MIET VERHAMME:

Coiffure EU is a European network of some twenty

national hairdressing employers’ organisations. The

After having been in charge of

mission of Coiffure EU is to contribute to favourable

the coordination of European

conditions and high professional standards for

grant applications for the fish-

hairdressers in Europe in general and notably

ery industry, she became an

employers. The leading theme of Coiffure EU is

advisor of the Flemish minis-

‘business development instead of marginalisation’. If

ter of Agriculture and Fishery.

Coiffure EU wants to contribute to the development of the hairdressing sector education, craftsmanship and entrepreneurship should be improved.

In this context she also took part in negotiations for fishing quotas at a European level. Afterwards she worked

In addition to promoting the in-

level. Miet Verhamme expects

for

terests of the hairdressers-em-

that sustainability will still grow

ment, more specifically for

the

Flemish

govern-

ployers in different European

in importance.

the Flemish minister of Work and the Flemish minister of

organisations and agencies, the organization supports in-

Coiffure

developed

Education. In this role she was

formation exchange between

several activities and projects

mainly in charge of the nego-

the members, providing a fo-

in this field over the years.

tiations with the different in-

EU

has

dustries. At the department

rum for discussion of affairs which are important for the

BY FRANK DEN HARTOG

of Education, she was Head

hairdressing

(Stivako, The Netherlands)

of the section Research and

sector

in

the

Development of Vocational

member countries.

Educational Training, a secThe EU Commission organizes consultation meetings - Social Dialogue meetings - between on the one hand the EU Social Partners and on the other hand the EU Commission itself.

The executive secretariat of Coiffure EU is located in Ghent,

Coiffure

EU

recognized European

has

been

by

the

Commission

as the representative of the European employers’ organisations

in

hairdressing the

Our

services. Since 1998 the

is

Dialogue

conversation Miet

sectoral

in

Belgium.

Verhamme,

partner advisor

European policy & European projects. She points out the focus areas of Coiffure EU concerning sustainability, health and safety. Indeed, Health and

on

Social

personal

hairdressing sector has

been the only sector of SME (small to mediumsized was

enterprise)

able

to

opportunity.

use

that

this

tion specialised in European projects in the context of the link between education and employment. From 2013 onwards,

Miet

Verhamme

has worked as an Advisor in European Policy & Projects for Coiffure EU. In this respect she writes conceptual notes to the EU Commission, the Social Dialogue, the Board of Directors and the General Assembly

of

Coiffure

EU.

Furthermore, she assists in developing the strategic policy of the president and the secretary general. In addi-

Safety and Environment are

tion, she develops and coor-

important issues on European

dinates EU projects.

40 MAGAZINE

1. CAPACITY BUILDING - IMPLEMENTATION OF THE AGREEMENT ON HEALTH & SAFETY

4. EU-PROJECT ERGOHAIR

Since 2005 the social partners have been work-

of this EU-funded project is to help develop a

ing towards a EU agreement on health and safe-

healthy and safe work environment in the hair-

ty in the hairdressing sector. Only in 2012 the

dressing sector. To accomplish this aim, the ca-

European framework agreement was signed.

pacity of the social dialogue on European and

But the agreement has already been the object

national level needs to be enhanced in order

of much attention when several publications,

to promote effective ergonomic workstations

mainly from the UK, reviewed it and were not

in the small and medium sized hairdressing

satisfied about the content. After the 2014 EU

salons. More information can be found on the

elections, negotiations with the EU Commission

website: www.ergohair.eu.

were resumed.

An ongoing project is Ergohair. The objective

social conditions and stress were removed from

5. N EGOTIATIONS WITH COSMETIC EUROPE REGARDING THE REPLACEMENT OF THE SKIN TESTING METHOD BY A SCIENTIFICALLY BASED QUESTIONNAIRE

the agreement. The Commission also wanted

The Social Partners in the Personal Services

the self-employed section to be removed from

Social Dialogue Committee are very concerned

the agreement and decided to apply an impact

about the current way of dealing with the skin

assessment and an additional legal advice to

testing method. At this moment, the cosmet-

the agreement. In June 2016 an agreement on

ics industry is doing research in order to obtain

health and safety was signed but only by both

a new approach for the skin testing method.

social partners. To this day, the agreement is

Both social partners sent different letters to

not yet converted into binding EU legislation for

Commissioner Bienkowska in order to express

all EU countries.

the strong concern on “Self-testing for contact

As a result of these new negotiations with the Commission, the Pregnancy policy, Psycho-

sensitization to hair dyes”.

2. TRANSNATIONAL EUROPEAN SOCIAL FUND PROJECT “A CLOSE SHAVE”

They are both convinced that the responsibil-

In the context of this EU project desk research

be shifted to the individual hairdressers. Both

was carried out on good practices from seven-

social partners, Coiffure EU and UNI Europa,

teen EU countries. The following items have

share the scientific considerations and clinical

been developed: an instruction video, two man-

concerns of the European Society of Contact

uals with background information for teachers

Dermatitis (ESCD) and other European Scientific

(preventing skin complaints and ergonomics

Committees, whose arguments are detailed in

for start-up hairdressers), supporting material,

the enclosed joint position.

namely ‘take care of yourself’ sheets regarding

ity of the manufacturer cannot and should not

six subjects, which consists of visual informa-

6. ENVIRONMENT

tion and some main concerns. To avoid these

Environment is also an important issue in the

sheets to be thrown away (by the touch of wet

policy of Coiffure EU. A full program for a con-

hands, use of chemical products), they have

gress on environment (Waste and recycling from

been laminated.

a new perspective) had been developed but it

3. EU-SAFE HAIR PROJECT Safe hair provides information on the research projects and on “Skin Protection in Hairdressing”.

The project website (www.safehair.eu) provides information for employees, employers, trainers and trainees.

had to be cancelled due to the 2016 Brussels bombings.

THE GREEN PUZZLE WHAT SEVEN ITEM SHOULD A GREEN SALON HAVE?

Answers: GLOVES

X

L

Q

N

V

X

H

F

Y

I

LEDS

MASKS

Y

O

U

N

H

S

I

B

Y

T

PLANTS

RECYCLING

G

P

R

S

K

S

G

O

W

P

VENTING

WATER SAVERS

J

O

M

S

T

Y

N

I

A

Z

O

Q

A

N

F

W

I

E

T

O

V

M

A

R

S

E

L

H

E

M

K

L

K

P

A

M

C

B

R

X

P

C

A

Y

V

D

Y

O

S

O

B

U

V

N ´

N ´

A

C

E

A

W

S

M

L

E

D

S

E

O

V

G

X

T

T

K

N

E

R

L

E

L

F

M

L

H

W

T

P

P

R

O

S

I

C

G

X

W

I

V

S

V

P

B

N ´

N

V

G

V

N

P

E

N ´

U

Z

E

K

E

N ´

C

G

S

BY PALOMA RODRÍGUEZ (Ies El Palo, Spain)

42 MAGAZINE

COLOFON Future Skills & Sustainable Development in the Green Salon is a European project that aims to combine the sustainable ideas through educa-

The Green Salon project team consists of the following persons from the five participating countries:

tion and training with innovative ideas within the sector.

This project has been funded with support from the European Commission. This publication reflects the views only of the author, and the Commission cannot be held responsible for any use which may be made of the information contained therein.

Project partners within this program are:

AARHUS TECH - Denmark Lene Rishede, Louise Okon Willie IES EL PALO - Spain Paloma Rodríguez Bonilla, Esther López Merino, Marta Guillén Munoz IGS - France Valida Mechri, Malgorzata Woch BRIDGWATER COLLEGE - Great Britain Karen May, Lucinda Vaughan, Jon Harding © 2018 Green Salon project, Erasmus+

ROC VAN AMSTERDAM - The Netherlands

2015-1-NL01-KA202-008844. No part of this

Pieter van der Bent, Frans Grotenhuis

document may be reproduced in any form

STIVAKO - The Netherlands

without the authorisation of Stivako (project

Eva Bouwman, Frank den Hartog

coordinator) and the author.

Contact address: Stivako Boeingavenue 207 1119 PD Schiphol-Rijk The Netherlands tel. +31 20 5435670 info@stivako.nl Project website: www.greensalon.eu

SkillsDEVELOPMENT FUTURE SKILLSFuture & SUSTAINABLE IN THE GREEN SALON development Sustainable

The Green Salon project transfers the ideas and

knowledge

on

sustainability

through

information, education and training to students, schools,

employers,

employees

and

other

stakeholders in the Hair and Beauty (H&B) sector.

www.greensalon.eu

The aim is providing insight into sustainability.

People

Planet

Profit

CSR