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davidburke magazine
MONUMENTAL! The Wine Tower at Foxwoods
David Burke’s Aces in Las Vegas Sketching the Personality of a Dining Room Tracing Cows in Equal Proportions
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Contents dear friends What an amazing year 2008 has been. As I write this, the finishing touches are being implemented at Fishtail, my new seafood restaurant located a stone’s throw from David Burke Townhouse. It has truly been a labor of love as, from architectural design to menu completion, I’ve personally been involved in every phase and aspect of construction. Now I am thrilled to present New York diners with yet another unique dining option. Downstairs, the raw bar will stay open until 1:00 a.m., and I predict it will become a neighborhood staple in no time. Upstairs, guests can choose between buying whole fish by the pound; perusing our “fishtails only” section, which will cover everything from monkfish to lobster; or opting for a “fussy” fish interpretation of classics for a more decorated plate. You’ll spy Andy Warhols on the wall, fantastic glass aquariums suspended from the ceiling, and all the other details that you’ve come to expect from my restaurants.
5 LUCKY STREAK Chef Todd Stein lands on the winning combo: David Burke and Vegas.
14 PASTURE TO PLATE Traceability and portion control as prime ingredients.
6 A LOCAL ACE GM Marisa Scarpulla grew up in Vegas and feels right at home at David Burke.
15 GAME TIME Beer and chips à la David Burke.
9 LEANING TOWARD WINE A tower takes center stage in the room of David Burke Prime at Foxwoods. 13 BLUEPRINTS OF A CHEF From the kitchen to the dining room, David Burke inspires design.
17 POLE POSITION On the fast track to making world-class wines. 20 chef’s notebook How David Burke’s Thanksgiving turkey came out clean, and more!
I’m also proud to announce some exciting new partnerships, including the formation of a catering company with Aramark that will serve the tristate area. In addition, we are currently scouting out the Philadelphia area to find a space for a new restaurant. We’re looking forward to having a location in the home city of the new World Champ Phillies. With so much going on, it’s easy to lose sight of what’s really important. With every new venture, the David Burke family expands, and amazingly enough, some of its most recent additions have been friends and coworkers in the industry whom I have known the longest. If good food brings people together, I’m thrilled to know my restaurants do the same on so many levels!
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DAVID BURKE PRIME:
Design of a Chef Sandy Banker is an interior architect at the Friedmutter Group. She worked closely with Chef David Burke to realize the design and detail behind David Burke Prime, located in Foxwoods Resort and Casino. Together, they pooled their creative inspirations to bring the project to life. Give us an overall look and feel for David Burke Prime.
What is specific to Chef Burke’s signature style in Burke Prime?
It’s a very contemporary-style steakhouse that has the flavor of South
We took his salt blocks and incorporated them into a column surround that
American gaucho infused with Chef Burke’s whimsy. It’s roughly 13,000
is backlit so they glow. The salt blocks are also used in the aging room in the
square feet, complete with a bar/lounge, a main dining area, and a private
kitchen. There is a centerpiece of glass rods, created by Michael Ayoub, who
banquet room for up to 100 people.
has contributed glass sculptures in some of David Burke’s other restaurants.
What factors into the inspiration behind the design and detail of any space? I basically get a square box to work with. I start with “programming,” or the basic requirements of the space: what is its function, and what do you need to accommodate within it? In this case, I asked Chef Burke how many people he anticipated to determine the size of his kitchen, bar area, dining room, and so forth. From there, the flow of how each area’s function interacts with the others dictates traffic patterns.
How do you incorporate the client’s personality into the physical facade of a building? It’s different for everyone, but basically I take a characteristic of their personality and reflect it into the design. For example, with a bubbly personality, I focus on happy colors. Since Chef Burke is very whimsical, I tried to incorporate elements that had a lot of curves and spaces within a space so that every corner you turn presents something different or unexpected. David Burke’s cuisine is like that—full of surprises.
Are you personally inspired by Chef Burke’s cuisine while designing?
And then to complement that style and play off the gaucho feel, I designed glass drops over the bar that are a loose interpretation of boleadoras, the equivalent of a cowboy lasso. All the furniture was custom designed.
What is unexpected? We implemented a new style of seating in the dining room: a combination of sofas with dining seating. And then there’s the 35-foot wine tower that houses 7,000 bottles of wine.
Thirty-five feet? How does that work within the Burke Prime space? It actually spans two levels of the casino since the ceilings are only 14 feet high. It crashes through the casino floor all the way up to the ceiling. It was part of a master concept we developed for Foxwoods. The tower is a metal enclosure that blends seamlessly with the steakhouse, done in warm earth tones and copper and lots of fiery red, which is what Chef Burke likes.
How do you think the aesthetics of Burke Prime enhance the dining experience? More than ever, people go out regardless of a special occasion; they just want to try something new, and Chef Burke’s cuisine is nothing short of an experience in its own right. I didn’t want to take away from that but tried to make the restaurant itself an experience as well. The key element is that the
Constantly! I love his food and his art of presentation. From the uniqueness
space itself is broken up into little areas so that you can constantly experience
of his Burke in the Box packaging and the patterns and colors he uses to the
something different as you walk around. It could be as simple as a change
way he plates the food and presents his lollipops—it all gave me form and
in the seating arrangements or color scheme—all white chairs then brown
ideas for design. An example of using curvy spaces is the wavy ceiling in the
leather. That way, just as you get a choice from a menu, every time you go to
dining room.
Burke Prime you’ll leave with a different impression from your visit.
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It’s hard to miss: a tower of burnished copper that rises out of the ground to greet guests as they approach David Burke Prime from the mezzanine level of the hotel. es, it’s a huge attention getter,” admits General Manager Curtis Johnson; but it’s only one of several attractive elements about the dining experience here, with menu selection topping the list. Now this monolithic metal octagonal cylinder, encased in glass, laced with ladders, and boasting a selection of 7,000 bottles, brings to the table a wine experience like no other. While the collection touches on every wine region, as an American steakhouse, David Burke Prime highlights cult American cabernets and meritages. “Chef Burke was very instrumental in setting up this wine list,” explains Johnson, “and while it is comprehensive, we focus on wines that complement the meals, and that means a lot of great California reds.” Curtis Johnson knows a thing or two about steakhouses, with a career in restaurant operations that includes a ten-year span at the iconic steakhouse company Chart House. New to the David Burke family, he’s excited about the promise D.B. Prime is already showing. “The restaurant is really beautiful—not just the wine tower, but the aesthetics inside, from the glass details to the salt bricks. The entire space is a conversation piece from start to finish.” But the wine tower is the show stopper. “It’s definitely the focal point of the place,” adds Johnson. “People are always asking to see inside.” Humidity controlled with a temperature set between 58 and 60 degrees, the atmosphere is cool but pleasant. No wonder there are plans to offer seating up to four inside the tower for the ultimate dining experience. Until then, enjoy the view from the outside, with a bottle plucked from its gleaming shelving.
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OrOgeny VineyarD | 240 gateway rOaD west | napa, Ca 94558 | 877.254.4250
Woodford Reserve: T he Art of Cl a s sic Coc k tail s Classic cocktails are making a big comeback, largely because bartenders – now known as mixologists – have found delicious new ways to serve up old favorites. Take the historic Manhattan for instance. In addition to its widely-debated origin -- some believe it was created for a grand party in New York hosted by descendants of royalty -- its definition is often debated as well. No matter, because it has evolved into an array of full flavored, creative drinks being discovered by a whole new generation.
There is one truth that stands above the fray; the best ingredients make the best cocktails. Full flavored drinks demand a balanced and complex bourbon – and Woodford Reserve fits the bill. Now the experts may write about its “faint aromas of apricot and brown sugar” or its “hints of woody vanilla-tinged spice,” which is all well and good. But what’s most important is that you simply enjoy your Manhattan, or your classic cocktail, or your own unique take on mixology!
Please enjoy Woodford Reserve responsibly. www.woodfordreserve.com Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 45.2% Alc. by Vol., The Woodford Reserve Distillery, Versailles, KY © 2008.
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Timeless cocktails made modern with Woodford Reserve, gold medal winner of the world’s three most prestigious tasting competitions. The Woodford Manhattan 2 oz. Woodford Reserve® 1 oz. sweet vermouth 1 dash Angostura® bitters 1 dash Peychaud’s® bitters Splash of cherry juice Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add ingredients and shake well. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a bourbon-infused cherry. The Woodford Mediterranean Manhattan A drink this flavorful calls for a complex bourbon - Woodford Reserve. 2 oz. Woodford Reserve® 1 oz. Tuaca® liqueur 1/4 oz. fresh lemon juice 1/2 oz. simple syrup* Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add ingredients and shake well. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a twist of lemon. * Simple syrup: boil equal parts water and sugar until sugar dissolves. The Woodford French Manhattan Woodford Reserve adds balance to this delicious, refreshing concoction. 2 oz. Woodford Reserve® 1 oz. Chambord® Dash of bitters
visit www.peronafarms.com for more information Shake ingredients with ice and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a lemon twist or cherry.
What happens in
With the highly successful David Burke Las Vegas in the Venetian, and the October opening of a Burke in the Box at Terminal D in the Las Vegas airport, Chef David Burke has plenty of reasons to visit Sin City.
“Given the choices, dining in Las Vegas is a very unique experience, and
at the dining-room helm, Chef Burke gets a little downtime during his visits
so it was very important for us at David Burke Las Vegas to understand
to have some fun too. “I like to go to shows—I’ve seen Jersey Boys there a
not only who our customers are but also make sure the menu registered
couple of times! I’m not much of a nightclub guy, but I enjoy dining out
with them,” he explains. The result is a delicate balance of David Burke
and doing my fair share of shopping as well.”
signature dishes and more traditional combinations, catering to the discerning palate of the Las Vegas diner.
Some of his favorite places to dine include Bartolotta at the Wynn, Michael Mina and Yellowtail at the Bellagio, and Bouchon at the Venetian.
With Chef Todd Stein in the kitchen and General Manager Marisa Scarpulla
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A Local Ace
Marisa Scarpulla knows Las Vegas. She was born and raised there. She witnessed the culinary landscape of the city change as dramatically as the skyline on the Strip. She watched as chefs opened restaurants in stylish fourstar-plus hotels, replacing iconic buffets in landmark hotels. or a while, Las Vegas was focusing on a very different clientele: families.
whole package,” admits Scarpulla, “and everyone has to compete that way.
Room rates were inexpensive and hotels like Circus Circus and Excalibur
Hotels and restaurants have been successful in creating a theme and following it
were the big draw,” explains Scarpulla. “But then in 1982, Wolfgang
all the way through.” She points out that most chefs take a look at what they
Puck recognized an opportunity in Sin City that many other chefs didn’t,
have done before in their other locations and then take that to a new level
prompting him to open up Spago in The Forum Shops at Caesars.” As hotels
in Las Vegas. “For example, dining at David Burke in New York is a completely
shifted their focus to customers who would spend money, morphing into
different experience. There, the space is smaller and cozy like a townhouse, while
luxury destinations, there became an understanding that the restaurants
here it’s at least twice the size, big and open. The glass sculpture and rows of tiny
inside them could actually make money instead of simply providing
metal Humpty Dumptys that line the bar are dwarfed here by the glass waterfall
food. “Las Vegas used to be about gaming; now it’s equally about gaming and dining.”
in the center of the room and the life-size statue that sits on a swing in the front.” It’s all part of the showmanship of having a restaurant in Vegas: “We have
Today, as the entertainment capital of the world, Las Vegas lures not only
people taking photos with that Humpty all day long!”
world-class entertainers into their venues but also top chefs into their
But in the end, David Burke Las Vegas comes down to the food and the
kitchens. And while the all-you-can-eat mentality has given way to fine dining, the experience of eating in these restaurants is still a treatment in Vegas excess: terrific food, an over-the-top presentation, and amazing service, all in a fabulous atmosphere.
dining experience. “Chef Burke’s whimsical presentations really wow people over,” she explains, adding “and Chef Stein puts just the right spin on signature dishes. We have a lot of guests who originally came in because they love dining at Chef Burke’s other restaurants, and then they tell us they hit the jackpot here
“When people come to Vegas, they expect a total experience—they want the
because of the food, the experience, and the fun.” Viva Las Vegas!
Insider’s Guide to Las Vegas
for boating, fishing, water skiing, and swimming, and dinner cruises in the evening.
A true Las Vegas native, outside of business hours Marisa Scarpulla steers clear of the Strip and heads for the hills—literally. Here are a few of her favorite recommendations to get a glimpse of the other side of Las Vegas. Mount Charleston is 35 miles from Las Vegas and about 20 to 30 degrees cooler, with an elevation of almost 12,000 feet at its peak—perfect for picnicking, hiking, and horseback riding in the summer and skiing in the winter. Plus, it’s right next to Red Rock Canyon, arguably one of the prettiest spots in all of
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Nevada! You can pet and feed the wild burros that roam free around there. And while you’re in the area, check out Bonnie Springs, a replica of an 1880s mining town complete with a cowboy show. On the opposite side, outside of town about 30 miles, sits Lake Mead, the largest man-made lake and reservoir in the world—great
In the mood for a little Las Vegas nostalgia? History buffs take note! Head to the Boneyard: a three-acre site that houses some of Las Vegas’s most famous, nowdefunct signs—like The Mint and the Silver Slipper, even the big cowboy that used to wave down on Freemont Street—dating from the 1940s on. An official museum is in the works. You can view the signs by appointment only. Go to www.neonmuseum.org.
Lastly, take a trip to Lake Las Vegas, located in Henderson, again about 20 minutes from town. It’s another man-made lake on the way to Lake Mead, this time nestled between some luxury resorts like the Ritz-Carlton and the Loews. You can stroll through a little shopping and dining area and feel as if you’re in your own world outside of Las Vegas. Great for brunch, wine walks, fairs, boat cruises, and even gondola rides—it’s amazing!
Chef Todd Stein: Cooking on the Strip “Go west, young chef” is what Todd Stein was told years ago. He recently heeded that advice, but not before cutting his chops in some great restaurants across the Midwest: Gordon and mk in Chicago, Piccolo Mondo, Sans Souci, and Vivo in Cleveland. Finally landing in Las Vegas, the culture shock was immediate. Walking through a casino every day to get to work, surrounded by all the bells and whistles, was daunting at first, but he was quickly embraced by the staff at David Burke Las Vegas and soon felt right at home. “The great thing about the restaurant business is that since it’s such a tight-knit community, knowing one or two people in a city really opens the doors to meeting a tremendous amount of others, which is what happened to me here in Las Vegas…” Small-world case in point: his own relationship with Chef David Burke. They met many years ago in Chicago. Stein was at Gordon’s, and Burke was there opening Park Ave Café. They became friends. “I was going to culinary school at the same time and about to head to Europe for a couple of weeks with my class,” explains Stein. “David actually hooked me up with a job in Paris for six months at the same bakery he had worked with (Moulin de La Vierge), which was an amazing experience.” After that, they stayed in touch, crossing paths
occasionally and discussing working together. That came to fruition last September when Stein joined David Burke Las Vegas. His culinary vision has been described as “sophisticated yet approachable.” At David Burke Las Vegas, Stein puts his own unique spin on specials while highlighting Burke’s signature dishes—easy to do as their styles are so complementary. He was brought up on a classical style of cooking; molecular gastronomy didn’t exist at the time. “It was all about ingredients and treating them the way they should be, making things taste right using classical French and Italian techniques. That’s David’s background as well—and if you take that and add the childish whim, you get some really fun stuff. I have always felt that if you can bring someone back to their childhood with a plate of food, then you hit a home run every time, and that’s
what we try to do here at David Burke Las Vegas.” He gets excited about the food, describing a summer salad with peaches, shaved fennel and proscuitto, and “the most amazing ricotta ever!” with pride and gusto, and a Durade flanked with basil-and-goat-cheese dumplings and slightly warm peeled heirloom tomatoes as “simple and looking very cool on the plate.” His theory is easy enough: take great ingredients at their peak and highlight them simply. But how do you do that in a city where a change in seasons is indicated by only the slightest fluctuation in temperature? Regardless of weather, they try to go the route of being seasonal. “There are many things here you can eat all year round, but that’s not the point. In the winter, when it’s 80 degrees out,
it might be hard to braise lamb shanks, but people still eat that way.” Just as local retailers stock sweaters for the fall even though it might seem absurd, Chef Stein is keenly mindful that not all his diners live in town; many come to him with seasons of where they live on their minds. Although David Burke Las Vegas does get its fair share of locals—usually a mix of foodies and chef-type diners—the bulk of their guests comprise David Burke fans, conventioneers, and tourists from the world over. “It’s crazy, but at the end of the day, it reminds me of cooking in the Midwest,” remarks Stein. “We have a portion of adventurous diners, guests who want to eat steak, and others who want to eat simply good food, and if you can provide for all three groups in one environment, then you can do very well—and I think we do that wonderfully here!”
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Rare Vintages & Cellar Box With the Rare Vintage collection Veuve Clicquot resurrects two treasured wines from the harvests of 1985 and 1988. Disgorged in 2005, these exceptional champagnes are made from the best Grands and Premiers Crus from years that produced wines with truly exceptional aging potential. The Rare Vintages come wrapped in the Pablo Reinoso-designed Cellar Box, a high tech case that embodies modern design while preserving the wines in the best possible conditions. Stackable and reusable. Wine Spectator 95 - Rare Vintage 1988 Wine Spectator 94 - Rare Vintage Rose 1985
2002 Vintage Veuve Clicquot brings excitement to vintage champagne with the introduction of new gift boxes for both Blanc and Rosé. Instantly recognizable by their Veuve Clicquot “yellow” color, the new gift boxes contain the 2002 vintage and are the perfect gift for celebrating the Holidays. The 2002 Vintage Blanc is fresh and light on the palette, while boasting a long and aromatic finish. The 2002 Vintage Rosé reveals beautiful pink and salmon hues and is characterized by fruity, spicy flavors.
www.veuve-clicquot.com So Clicquot, So Responsible. Champagne c 2008 Imported by Moët Hennessy USA, Inc., New York. NY.
In America, culinary historians think that doughnuts are almost as old as the country itself. No matter what you hear about the latest, greatest doughnut—whether from a chain or a local bakery—I guarantee you that it is nothing like one fresh from your own kitchen. When making doughnuts, place about a half cup of cinnamon-scented sugar in a small pan in the oven. This will fill the house with a wonderful sweet-spicy smell that will let everyone know that you are in the kitchen working your magic. This is an old baker’s trick to lure customers into the shop. It still works. — Chef David Burke
Ingredients: 1 lb ricotta cheese (works best with whole-milk ricotta) ½ cup sugar 6 eggs 1 tsp vanilla extract 1 tsp salt 2½ cups all-purpose flour 4 tsp baking powder
Method: 1. Whisk ricotta, sugar, eggs, vanilla, and salt together in a large mixing bowl. 2. Sift together the all-purpose flour and baking powder. Fold into the wet mixture. Refrigerate overnight. 3. Scoop with a ½-oz scooper (or melon baller) into small 1-inch balls. Deep fry at 350 degrees.
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reflections from the pasture
Chef David Burke goes to great lengths to ensure that from pasture to plate, not only do diners get the best possible cuts of meat, but that the process is traceable, efficient, and controlled.
As much as Burke loves being on the farm (he’s been known to chase an ostrich or two!), his focus is in the kitchen. Selecting the right purveyors becomes even more important. Burke has recently entrusted Buckhead Beef to provide the meats at all of his restaurants, and you could say they really know how take the bull by the horns. Traceability
Portion Control
“Location, location, location!” Bob Mark of Buckhead Beef explains
While the business of farming has evolved, perhaps one of the most
emphatically when asked what criteria he looks for in first selecting
important ways the industry has changed is in how technology sets
the cattle ranches he works with. “When you open a restaurant, it’s all
the tone for new businesses practices, especially in the way of portion
about location, and we feel the same way about our animals.” Traceability
control. The implementation of portion control has been extremely
is paramount when it comes to working with farmers. “After we make
positive for restaurants and chefs. “It’s old-world butchery meets new-
sure the farmer has total traceability, then we move to the ‘where’ factor.”
world technology,” Mark explains. State-of-the-art machines are able to
The colder the climate, the more internal fat steers put on. “With this in
produce same-size, custom-specific cuts, trimming the beef to tolerances
mind, we concentrate on cattle from the Midwest, fed on corn, because we also
within half an ounce. The benefits are overwhelming: portion control
believe in the old adage ‘what you feed an animal is what they become.’ ”
makes the kitchen’s job easier and more efficient. For any given cut, all
Mark also has a hands-on approach with the ranchers that makes everyone feel like part of the family. “I visit the ranches about six times a year for two reasons: one is to make sure standards are being met, and the other is to maintain relationships—making sure everyone is happy.” With portion control cooking time and temperature are always consistent, which leads to an efficiently run kitchen and a satisfied diner.
portions are the exact same size, shape, and weight, and there is more precision in cooking time and temperatures. There is no waste, as every ounce of meat is served and the prep staff doesn’t have to do any trimming or boning—it’s all been done by highly skilled cutters that prepare the portion-ready meats. There is great economic efficiency in portion control at the restaurant. With the elimination of waste and the reduction of time, equipment, and labor necessary to prepare portions, the immediate result is a lower cost per serving. With the business of meat grounded in responsible farming, modern technology, and solid chef relationships, like the one with David Burke, Buckhead keeps in step with a changing industry whose improvements have a direct result on our plates and our palates.
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HOPS: THE SOUL OF SAMUEL ADAMS BEERS For centuries, people have casually referred to beer as “liquid bread.” It’s great shorthand, because both require grain, water, and yeast. But the key ingredient in beer that’s missing in bread is hops, and hops is the soul of beer. It’s fair to say that the story of the hop is the key to the history of Jim Koch’s Samuel Adams Boston Lager. A climbing plant, hops are trellised and reach heights in excess of 20 feet that seem to come to life as they catch the wind and loom over the fields. The flowers of the hop plant contain lupulin, which holds the intense spicy “hoppiness” that we have come to associate with flavorful beer. In 1984, Jim Koch’s father brought the family beer recipes down from his attic and showed Jim his favorite. It called for two rare German hops: Hallertau Mittelfrueh and Tettnang Tettnanger, both grown exclusively in Bavaria. Some years after Jim Koch began brewing his beer, he learned that the Hallertau Mittelfrueh and Tettnang hops he needed had become extremely rare. The world supply of Hallertau hops had dwindled to less than 400 acres. That’s just half the size of New York’s Central Park. What Jim Koch didn’t know was that by 2008, thanks to the efforts of Samuel Adams brewers and the popularity of Samuel Adams Boston Lager, those 400 acres of Hallertau hops would grow to more than 4,000 acres. In 1987 Jim began a tradition that continues to this day. Every year at the conclusion of the harvest, Jim and other Samuel Adams brewers travel to Bavaria to hand select the hops for the coming year. The long days include discussions about the year’s crop; visits to various farms and fields; and full days spent with hop suppliers selecting hops as they arrive from various farms. The business of the day traditionally concludes with a festive, homecooked meal and raised steins—a well-deserved beer among friends who share a common passion.
game on: chips and beer au natural
As passionate about his snacks as he is about his haute cuisine, when Chef David Burke settles in for a day of sports in front of the TV, he doesn’t just run to the corner store to grab a bag of munchies. Instead, he makes a trip to the local farmer’s market to pick up fresh produce that he turns into his own homemade veggie chips. Whatever is in season, Burke slices, dices, and throws into the fryer, turning almost any vegetable into a basket of snacks. The prep work is simple and the cooking is fast, so you won’t even miss the first quarter.
Carrot
Chestnut
Pumpkin
Sweet Potato
Ingredients:
Ingredients:
Ingredients:
Ingredients:
2 large carrots
1 lb chestnuts
1 miniature pumpkin
3 large sweet potatoes
4 cups vegetable oil
1 cup all-purpose flour
4 cups vegetable oil
4 cups vegetable oil
salt to taste
4 cups vegetable oil
salt to taste
salt to taste
salt to taste Method:
Method:
Method:
Method:
1. Using a vegetable peeler, scrape carrots. Continuing with the peeler, cut carrots into ribbons or strands until the core is reached and discard core.
1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
1. Cut top off pumpkin; remove and discard all seeds. Carefully cut pulp from pumpkin and thinly slice.
1. Peel sweet potatoes and thinly slice.
2. Heat oil in an electric deep fryer to 300 to 325 degrees. 3. Place carrot chips in basket of fryer, and cook until chips are golden and crisp. 4. Using a slotted spoon, remove chips from fryer and drain on paper towels. Salt to taste.
2. Cut a cross in each chestnut and place chestnuts on a baking sheet. Bake chestnuts for 10 minutes, or until shells open slightly. Remove from oven and allow to cool until they can be handled easily. 3. Peel chestnuts and slice carefully. Do not try to make the slices too thin or the chestnuts will crumble.
2. Heat oil in an electric deep fryer to 300 to 325 degrees. 3. Place pumpkin slices in basket of fryer, and cook until chips are golden and crisp. 4. Using a slotted spoon, remove chips from fryer and drain on paper towels. Salt to taste.
2. Heat oil in an electric deep fryer to 300 to 325 degrees. 3. Place sweet-potato slices in basket of fryer, and cook until chips are golden and crisp. 4. Using a slotted spoon, remove chips from fryer and drain on paper towels. Salt to taste.
4. Toss chestnuts in flour. 5. Heat oil in an electric deep fryer to 300 to 325 degrees.
Recipes from Cooking With David Burke, Alfred A. Knopf, New York.
6. Place chestnuts in basket of fryer, and cook until chips are golden and crisp. 7. Using a slotted spoon, remove chips from fryer and drain on paper towels. Salt to taste.
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Join us at our newest restaurant! Offering: · Sustainable Fish ·Delicious Seafood ·Late Night Dining ·Classic Oyster Bar ·Creative Cocktails ·Private Dining Rooms ·Patio Dining ·And more!
135 E62nd Street; NYC 10065 t (212) 754-1300, www.fishtaildb.com www.davidburke.com
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By Jonathan Sloan
200 MPH to 10 Months in the Bottle
Randy Lewis doesn’t do anything slowly. For over 20 years, Randy was a car-racing professional, finishing as high as 13th position at the Indy 500. In his second professional career, Randy burst onto the wine scene by producing some of Napa Valley’s most sought after wines, Lewis Cellars. “I developed my passion for wine while racing Formula 3 cars in Europe. The local wines and food I tried captivated me, and the lifestyle lured me into the world of wine.” After returning to the United States, Randy continued to race Indy and Formula 5000 cars. Five Indy 500s later, he moved on to his second passion, winemaking. Naturally, Randy took to winemaking like a Ferrari filled with rocket fuel, enlisting the iconic California winemaker Helen Turley as his mentor and teacher. “I learned how important hillside vineyards are—that proper drainage and low-vigor rootstock are also key factors in producing the type of grapes we now like to use for our wines at Lewis Cellars.” Randy’s venture in making wines has been anything but slow. His hard work and hands-on approach has catapulted him into the “gotta have” category among serious California wine collectors and drinkers. “We try to make our wines the way we like to drink them: big, extracted, fruit-driven wines that are both complex and enjoyable to drink with all types of food. Debbie [Randy’s wife and partner at Lewis Cellars] and I collect wines from northern and southern Rhône, as well as white Burgundies. We try to create wines like those we enjoy drinking.” It’s apparent that the Lewises have achieved their mission, and created world-class wines while doing so. Wine Spectator magazine has anointed them one of Napa’s most collectable wineries. “Every case and bottle we are able to get our hands on sells out as soon as we can place the wines on the shelf. People are looking for Lewis wines all year around, not just when they release the next vintage,” says Andrew Klugerman, owner of Manhattan’s premier wineshop, K&D Wines. “People hardly ever ask how much when I offer them a Lewis wine that’s not on the list. They are excited enough just to be offered one,” adds Ed Chan, wine director at Quality Meats, one of New York’s finest steak houses.
2008 • davidburke
17
ripe, rich, and multi-dimensional With his larger-than-life personality and enthusiastic presence, Randy is
racking something, or tasting something. With 18 vintages of Lewis
a man that surely portrays his image through his wine. Lewis wines have
Cellars under his belt, Randy can proudly look back on his legacy, and can
been described as “big,” “ripe, rich, and multi-dimensional,” “smooth and
only guess how many thousands of people have smiled with satisfaction
balanced,” and, of course, “racy.” Randy takes all the reviews in stride. “A
after drinking a glass of Lewis Cellars wines. When asked to reflect on that
handful of people remember who got 13th in the Indy, but everyone knows
fact, Randy thinks hard for a moment and looks at Debbie; his infectious
when you get a 98 from Wine Spectator.”
laugh lingers, then his big, bright smile shows how much he realizes he’s
Lewis Cellars is always buzzing with excitement. The converted two-story
truly blessed to be able to make a living by selling the wine he produces.
home is now replete with filled wine barrels in temperature-controlled
“It’s not always about the money you make; it’s more often about the friends
rooms, and winery assistants moving pumps and tanks around. There’s
you meet along the journey in the wine business that make it all worthwhile,”
never nothing to do at the winery; people are always cleaning something,
Randy explains, then he raised his glass toward us.
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2008 • davidburke
Rattle those pots and pans… On a recent business trip to Paris, I stopped at a few legendary kitchenware havens, including E. Dehillerin, to pick out serving pieces for Fishtail. While stateside, I will debut my own line of pots and pans on QVC in January. Stay tuned for more details.
Cleaning up your Thanksgiving act… When I worked in Norway years ago, I caught a salmon that was just too big to poach, so I steamed it in a dishwasher and it came out perfectly moist. This
william shear photography
Winter’s Bounty Cabbage: What’s better than a hearty soup on a frosty winter day? Cabbage makes great soup. I used to throw it in a “potage garbure”: a soup from the southwest of France made with white beans and bacon and the occasional duck leg. Thick and very satisfying!
year I experimented
Parsnips:
with a turkey, and it
Parsnips are very
was delicious! All I did
versatile—slice
afterward was brown it
them thinly and
under the broiler for a
fry them up into
few minutes. No mess, no
chips, dice them
smell, just great-tasting
like croutons, or puree
turkey. I even steamed the stuffing and bags of spinach that way. For
them to perfection. They
details on cooking times and tips, check out the article that ran in the
have a great fresh minty edge
New York Post online.
to them.
Coole Swan is created from the highest-quality natural ingredients: fresh double cream from Ireland’s richest dairylands; the softest, most
Uncorking 2009
rounded single malt Irish whiskey; real melted chocolate; rich, dark, bittersweet cocoa from the Côte d’Ivoire; and delicate
It’s been a busy year, and Vegas
infusions of the finest Madagascan bourbon vanilla.
would be fun, but I think I’ll start
The initial impact of cold, fresh, creamy chocolate
off the evening in the city and
gently melts in the mouth to reveal a luscious, smooth,
eventually head over to Rumson
bittersweet balance of the rich, dark cocoa and the
and celebrate with good friends
delicate vanilla, while a clean finish enables the warmth
and family. There’s a special
of the whiskey to linger.
double magnum of Cristal sitting
Lotto Luck
in my kitchen reserved just for the occasion!
1.5 oz Vanilla Vodka 1.5 oz Coole Swan Liqueur 1 tsp. powdered malted chocolate .5 oz Godiva Milk Chocolate Liqueur Mix all ingredients in martini shaker, shake well, serve straight up in chilled martini glass, and garnish with a malted chocolate ball. New Name, Same Place: Effective January 1, 2009, David Burke & Donatella will change its name to David Burke Townhouse. 20
2008 • davidburke
Taste the Washington difference.
Columbia Winery was founded in 1962 by ten friends united in the belief that classic European vines could survive the harsh Washington winters and that fine wine could be made in Washington State. Columbia Winery produces award winning Riesling, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, as well as exceptional Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris. We also offer highly-acclaimed vineyard designated wines from long-established vineyards including Otis, Wyckoff and the renowned Red Willow Vineyard.
“Masterful wines from Washington State� 2008 Distributed by W.J. Deutsch & Sons, Ltd. Harrison NY 10604 wjdeutsch.com
www.columbiawinery.com
HauteNotes
From the publisher, Haute Notes is about the discovery of all things innovative
and exciting in food and wine, art and design, and style and travel. Visit hautenotes.com.
HAUTEMIXOLOGY
Editor-in-Chief Pamela Jouan
HAUTETaste
Woodford’s Hot Caramel-Apple Toddy
Carolina Country Ham
1 gallon fresh apple cider 1 ½ cups Woodford Reserve 8 oz caramel sauce 6 cinnamon sticks 6 whole cloves Directions: Combine ingredients in a crock pot and mix thoroughly. Heat on high just until toddy is hot, then reduce temperature to low. Serve in a mug, and garnish with a cinnamon stick or apple wedge. Enjoy!
Publisher Michael Goldman
Phillips Brothers in Asheboro, North Carolina, has been curing country hams since 1947. They still cure their hams the slow, old-fashioned way: hand rubbing each fresh ham with a special curing mixture, placing them in a refrigerated curing room in oak bins for 45 days, and finally hanging them in the drying and aging room for 35 days or more, where they achieve their old-time Southern flavor. We like it best on a morning biscuit, especially with red-eye gravy—hamfat drippings mixed with black coffee—but it is also delectable on its own. Visit www.phillipsbrotherscountryhams.com.
HAUTENOTEWORTHY
Design Director Jana Potashnik BAIRDesign, Inc. Managing Editor Christian Kappner Assistant Editor Stephane Henrion Senior Copy Editor kelly suzan waggoner Contributing Writers Pamela Jouan JONATHAN SLOAN Photo Director Charles Harris Photography Shannon O’Hara – Doughnuts William Shear – Dishwasher Turkey Advertising Inquiries 718.858.1187 HauteLife Press a division of C-BON MEDIA, LLC. 321 Dean Street Suite 1 Brooklyn, NY 11217
Twelve
www.hautelifepress.com info@hautelifepress.com
Developed by world-class chefs, Twelve is a sophisticated culinaryinspired, nonalcoholic beverage that is a sparkling alternative to water or iced tea. Created with a base of organic white, green, and black teas, and a select mix of herbs, spices, and citrus essence, Twelve is not only healthy and tasty on its own but also a great complement with food. Twelve is available at select restaurants, specialty food stores, and coming soon to www.madetotaste.com.
Subscription Inquiries 718.858.1187 subscriptions@hautelifepress.com or visit www.hautelifepress.com HauteLife Press makes every effort to ensure that the information it publishes is correct but cannot be held responsible for any errors or omissions.
Made to taste.com MadeToTaste.com is an online shopping destination that offers a curated selection of chef-created and chef-related products. Imagine shopping in a chef’s pantry for food products, kitchen tools and accessories, and cookbooks! MadeToTaste.com also features chef demonstration videos, recipes, and wine and cocktail pairings.
Printed and bound in the U.S.A. © 2008 All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is strictly prohibited.
david burke locations
133 East 61st Street New York, NY 10021 tel 212.813.2121 davidburketownhouse.com
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2008 • davidburke
135 E 62nd Street New York, NY 10065 tel 212.754.1300 fishtaildb.com
Bloomingdale’s New York Foxwoods Resort & Casino Connecticut McCarran Airport, Terminal D Las Vegas burkeinthebox.com
26 Ridge Road Rumson, NJ 07760 tel 732.842.8088 fromagerierestaurant.com
Foxwoods Resort & Casino Route 2 Mashantucket, CT 06338 tel 860.312.8753 davidburke.com
The Venetian 3355 Las Vegas Blvd S. Las Vegas, NV 89109 tel 702.414.7111 davidburkelasvegas.net
616 North Rush at Ontario Chicago, IL 60611 tel 312.660.6000 davidburke.com/primehouse
Carbon negative. Globally positive.
At FIJI Water our mission has always been to bring you the finest, best-tasting water on earth. To ensure this for years to come, we’re going “carbon negative.” Which means reducing CO2 emissions across all of our products. Changing 50% of our bottling facility’s energy to renewable sources by 2010. And partnering with Conservation International to help save the largest rainforest in Fiji. Making FIJI Water the first carbon-negative product in our industry. And perhaps the most positive for the world. © 2008 FIJI Water Company LLC. All rights reserved.
fijigreen.com fall 2007 • davidburke
19
This fall, we’re showcasing the best new trends from today’s most exciting designers.
bloomingdales.com
Mitchell Gold + Bob Williams Barbara Barry Donna Karan Calvin Klein Ralph Lauren Natori Michael Aram William Yeoward Monique Lhuillier