2 0 0 8
© 2006 Nestlé Waters North America, Inc.
A WATER THAT BELONGS ON THE WINE LIST.
THE PRIDE OF TUSCANY SINCE 1927, LUSH AND LUMINOUS ACQUA PANNA FROM S.PELLEGRINO IS THE PERFECT COMPLEMENT TO FINE FOOD AND WINE.
Contents WELCOME TO OUR HOME. WE HOPE YOU ENJOY YOUR STAY.
7 IL MAESTRO The art of working a room comes from pure passion.
10 Made with amore Michael Greco was born to run a kitchen.
13 recipes Straight from Il Mulino’s kitchen.
15 FROM THE SOURCE The culinary journey to Italy for artisan ingredients.
18 CRAFTED TO PERFECTION What do race cars and balsamic vinegar have in common?
21 HOMEMADE The Masci brothers’ fervent devotion to authenticity.
25 GRAPE REVIEW A refresher course on the varietals of Tuscany.
34 IL MULINO Locations. 2008 • il mulino
As traditional and authentic as it gets, Claudio is equal parts charm, passion, and service, with a pinch of humor. 6
il mulino • 2008
IL MAESTRO An aesthete and perfectionist, Claudio—who, like a poet or supermodel, is INSTANTLY recognized by the cognoscenti with only his given name—is both the spirit and the soul of New York’s legendary Il Mulino.
For over 25 years, he has made the endless refinement of the restaurant’s food and service his personal passion. It’s paid off—year after year, the epicurean bible and eatery guide Zagat has bestowed its coveted best-Italian designation on Claudio’s dining room. Cinematically dapper in his customary black tie, Claudio agrees
but he consents to another question. When asked what
to reflect for a moment in the middle of his whirlwind day.
distinguishes Il Mulino’s food from the myriad of other Italian
Asked what it’s like to run the highest-end Italian restaurant in
places in the city, he doesn’t hesitate: “The quality of our
the most demanding city on Earth, he adjusts his impeccable
ingredients is unparalleled. Chicken, we buy free range. Our
shirt cuffs with meditative deliberation before turning his
octopus is straight from the Ionian Sea. We buy an entire veal
attention to forming an answer to the question. His energy is
or lamb and butcher it ourselves. That way, we control for the
reminiscent of the late auto magnate Gianni Agnelli: fastidious,
highest-quality everything. Everything we serve is something
disciplined, and old-fashioned. He clears his throat and says,
I eat myself.” He smiles knowingly. “Yes,” he continues, “it
“It’s like a drug. Even when we’re closed for a month in the
boils down to quality and service. I have had customers thank
summer, I’m back after three weeks.” Before the rest of the staff
me profusely for the simplest of meals. And I have had them
returns, tan and refreshed, from vacations in Italy, he spends
thank me profusely after waiting over an hour for a table. Why?
that solitary week attending to the fine details, with a devotion
Because I have treated them like a member of my own family.”
bordering on the religious, like the old-world steamer that sparkles every glass and the painstaking organization of every implement and spice in the kitchen. Claudio isn’t too proud to admit that he has been known to personally polish the fixtures—professional cleaners be damned—when no one is
Biting gingerly into a linen-crisp, gossamer-light biscotto, he sighs contentedly then sips from his elegant small cup of caffé ristretto and reminds us, “Twenty-five years. And it’s even better today.”
around, for the sheer satisfaction of seeing the gleam restored before his eyes. Now those same eyes constantly, but almost imperceptibly, return to the siren call of the restaurant’s buzz of activity. He clearly longs to get back into the hubbub and the artistry,
2008 • il mulino
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Old-world warmth together with modern-day know-how creates a dining room that is festive and familiar for loyal patrons of one of New York’s finest culinary institutions.
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Michael Greco loves great food and wants you to love it just as much.
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made with amore Corporate kitchen manager and food impresario Michael Greco has only ever wanted to do one thing with his life—create extraordinary food.
An amateur foodie since birth and a professional one since the tender age of 14, Greco long dreamed of being in the kitchen when other little boys were thinking of space ships. As a rising star in culinary school, he excelled in various cuisines, but it was ultimately his
well as the importance—of excellent food. It was her banquet lunches and boundless hospitality and his contagious pleasure that would inform Greco’s effusively gracious approach to running a restaurant.
ancestral roots that guided his calling. Originating in a small
A key member of the Il Mulino family since early 2002, Greco
town on the dazzling east coast of Sicily, his bon vivant grand-
sums up the secret behind the successful collaboration: “Love
father and pious grandmother taught him early the joys—as
makes our food what it is. Pure love. When you put an equal 2008 • il mulino
> 11
emphasis on food and service, basing both on a commitment
oli with champagne truffle cream sauce is to die for; ditto the
to the strictest attention paid to every detail—glasses always
rack of lamb. For dessert? The cheesecake, of course. “Passion
filled, every last ingredient imported from Italy—well, you
is what makes our cheesecake different from the others,” says
end up with an effortlessness, a joy on the part of the diner.
Greco. “And, sure, the amaretto doesn’t hurt.”
That’s what I love to see.” Hard-pressed to name a favorite dish on the menu (“It’s all wonderful”), he concedes that a few personally drive him to delicious distraction: the porcini ravi-
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Straight from the kitchen of Il Mulino, these recipes are per plate. To plan your dinner, adjust the recipe accordingly for each of your guests.
Soft-Shell Crabs Ingredients 4 Soft-Shell Crabs 1 oz Garlic in Oil 2 oz White Wine 3 oz Clam Juice 1 pinch Capers 1 1/2 oz Butter 1/2 oz Lemon Juice Flour, as needed 2 1/2 oz Blended Oil 1/2 lb Sautéed Spinach 1 Plum Tomato Slice 1 Parsley Sprig
Fried Calamari Method 1. Flour soft-shell crabs, shaking off excess flour. 2. Heat blended oil in a sauté pan. Brown crabs on both sides. 3. Drain all but one teaspoon of oil; add garlic to pan and cook for 30 seconds. 4. Add white wine, clam juice, lemon juice, and capers. Reduce. 5. Add butter and season with salt and pepper. 6. Place spinach in the center of a large round plate. 7. Position soft-shell crabs on the plate at 12, 6, 3, and 9 o’clock. 8. Spoon sauce over the top, and garnish with a plum tomato slice and parsley sprig.
Ingredients 2 oz Calamari Tentacles 4 oz Calamari Tubes, cut in half 1 1/2 oz Zucchini Julienne 4 Lemon Slices Salt and Pepper to taste Flour, as needed 3 oz Il Mulino Marinara Sauce
Method 1. Place calamari, zucchini, and lemon in a bowl, and season with salt and pepper.
2. Add flour to bowl, and toss ingredients until completely coated.
3. Shake off excess flour and place calamari in a fry basket. Calamari takes approximately 2 minutes to cook.
4. When calamari is done, place on a paper towel to absorb excess oil. Season again with salt and pepper.
1 pinch Red Pepper Flakes
5. Stack calamari in a proper napkin
1 pinch Italian Parsley, chopped
6. In a small glass bowl, pour heated
1 Lemon Wrap
fold, and place on an oval plate. Il Mulino marinara sauce and add a pinch of hot pepper. Garnish calamari with chopped parsley.
7. Place half a lemon wrap next to the sauce before serving.
2008 • il mulino
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INTRODUCING
A LEGEND WITHIN A LEGEND
New York’s most celebrated Italian restaurant comes to Trump Taj Mahal®. Experience the legendary Il Mulino New York and its devotion to serving time-honored original recipes in generous portions. The feeling is sophisticated yet lively. The food? Prepare to fall in love. When two icons join together, expect extraordinary things.
1-800-825-8888 • www.trumptaj.com
from the source A critic once called Il Mulino “the real Italian Embassy in America,” and aside from a couple of diplomats, the clique of fervently devoted patrons would agree. There are few restaurants outside the Italian peninsula that perform as many hands-on artisan operations in the kitchen, like old-style butchery and sauce alchemy. There are even fewer eateries that rely so exclusively on culinary products from the home country. Taking a step back in time, to the era before globalization, Il Mulino adheres to the principle that Italian cuisine is made with Italian ingredients.
If you were to accompany your food from its origins to your plate, the journey would resemble a honeymoon, or the honeymoon we wish we’d had.
> 2008 • il mulino
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In Tuscany, the olive oil has been handled the same way for centuries: carefully extracted from the olive fruit, crafted with pride and passion, and slowly poured for the pleasure and enjoyment of its flavors.
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The populace of Modena is fanatic for vintage sports cars and aged Balsamic vinegar. Il Mulino imports the healthier of the two.
As any epicurean will tell you, nearly every Italian dish begins and ends with its olive oil. A cornerstone ingredient and condiment both, the quality of the olive oil defines the overarching taste experience of whatever it’s in or on. Nowhere is the art of cultivating and
We catch the next local train north to Modena. (What’s
pressing olives as exalted as in Tuscany. Set on the rolling
exports: spectacular sports cars, like Ferrari and Maserati, and
hills that lay blanketing the valleys between the swoon-
balsamic vinegar. It is this special vinegar, made of crushed
worthy towers and palazzi of the region, these olive groves
trebbiano grapes aged in wooden casks for five patient years,
the hurry when the caffé car serves such incredible coffee?) Gracefully situated in the Po Valley, the ancient palace-strewn university town is known for its two internationally prized
are renowned throughout Europe and the world. To achieve a
that adds to the unmistakable authenticity of a meal at Il
sought-after medium-bodied, fruity aroma, the Tuscan artisans
Mulino’s “embassy” in the States. Intoxicatingly pungent,
cold press the very first harvest, so that neither time nor heat
Modena’s balsamico has been a well-deserved source of pride
dulls the bouquet. The resulting oil is extraordinary. Were that
for centuries. We’ll pause in the Piazza of St. Augustine for
not enough, they then go overboard, adding basil, rosemary,
a handmade gelato, but don’t spoil your appetite for the real
oregano, and garlic to select batches, which are swiftly bottled
dessert in Torino.
and shipped to discriminating patrons to drizzle on crusty bread, organic produce, and meat.
> 2008 • il mulino
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The Amalfi Coast is a fever hallucination for romantics, cognoscenti, and foodies. Impeccably dressed denizens stroll along the Mediterranean’s finest promenades until they find that perfect spot for drinks and dinner.
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We follow the Po River to the snow-capped Alps, where the gracious Savoian capital celebrated for its French-inflected architecture and its religious relics plays host to some of Italy’s most stupendous sweets. Here, we’re greeted by the Arzilli family, whose truffle workshop sits at the apex of Piemontese confectionary tradition. Simply by scouring the region for its most flawless hazelnuts and adding them to superb dark chocolate, they achieve a truffle of indescribable perfection— christened La Perla di Torino. Sugar-buzzed, we head to the Amalfi Coast, where Il Mulino’s exquisite pasta is born. To save time, we’ll charter a dual-engine plane to drop us off in Salerno, perhaps the most perfectly preserved Moorish-Norman-style city in the Mezzogiorno. Centered between the grandeur of Pompeii and the sensuality of Positano, Salerno is known as a mecca for holidaymakers. Lesser known to the public is its artisanal pasta production, a nuanced tradition highly valued by the pasta cognoscenti. For over 150 years, Pastificio Venturino has been creating its pasta using the ancient ultraslow, low-temperature drying method responsible for the unique porous texture that showcases and invigorates whatever sauce it touches. Their own locally favored durum wheat is hand rolled onto the bronze molds that ultimately lend the pasta its shape and identity— penne, spaghetti, linguine, and “the twins,” whimsical spiral gemelli. We’ll revel in a leisurely lunch at a shady table before a quick lie-down and a stroll along the seaside promenade. In this part of the country, the people dress beautifully for the evening passeggiata, so don’t hesitate to unpack your finest. But even the loveliest of honeymoons inevitably ends, and we return home to the routine that defines us. At Il Mulino, it is believed that delicacies like these should be part of more than the perfect honeymoon. They must enrich and enliven our daily lives, reminding us that nature’s gifts, in the capable hands of tradition, nourish both the body and the soul.
2008 • il mulino
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Š 2006 NestlÊ Waters North America Inc.
At finer restaurants in Paris, London, New York and of course, Milan.
giving meaning to homemade Back when Gino and Fernando Masci first came to America to bring their native Abruzzese cuisine to the New World, they were appalled by the bread. No, it just wasn’t up to snuff. And, no, they would not be serving any of that to the esteemed guests at their nascent restaurant, to be called Il Mulino.
2008 • il mulino
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Though they longed to bake their own huge, crusty loaves of bread, Manhattan real estate being what it is, the gargantuan ovens needed for such a task would not fit in their cozy Greenwich Village kitchen. Necessity being la mamma of invention, the brothers decided
to make an even richer, more intense variation of the sauce,
to make what they could make excellently in a smaller
they contracted New York City’s top salumiere to deliver the
space—a stupendous focaccia. Studded with rosemary, garlic,
choicest cuts of veal, beef, and pork. Adding the high-quality
pepperoncino, and fine shallots, the ambrosial dough was then
meat and Piemontese porcini mushrooms to their already
baked and, only when piping hot, slathered with Tuscan olive
sumptuous concoction, the Bolognese recipe was born.
oil and Sicilian sea salt. Their focaccia was more than a delight
Perfectionists to the core, they aimed to complete their sauce
for their diners. It met their own exacting standards and fueled
pantheon with a perfect vodka sauce, and that they did—farm-
their enthusiasm for treating New Yorkers to the culinary
fresh heavy cream, artisanal Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, and
tradition of their home province.
imported vodka commingle in heavenly union to this day in
Next, the Masci brothers turned their attention to creating the sauce that would go on to make Il Mulino New York famous in
That fervent devotion to exceptional handmade food that
epicurean circles. Using only the freshest and ripest tomatoes,
distinguished the Masci family from the early days thrives
they tasted and retasted until they swooned. That first perfect
today in the Il Mulino kitchen, where every pot of sauce and
batch became the template for their pomodoro sauce. Next,
every focaccia is crafted fresh, with expertise, patience, and
they added to the pomodoro an artistically calibrated blend
excitement every day.
of spices, and that became their legendary marinara. Daring
22
their unforgettable ivory sauce.
il mulino • 2008
Pappardelle Pomodoro Ingredients 8 oz Fresh Cut Pappardelle
Method 1. In boiling salted water, cook pappardelle until al dente.
8 oz Il Mulino Pomodoro Sauce
2. In a sauté pan, heat Il Mulino
1 1/2 oz Parmesan Cheese
3. Strain pasta well and add to the
1/2 oz Romano Cheese
4. Adjust flame to low. Add basil,
1 oz Butter 1 oz Olive Oil Black Pepper to taste 1 tbs Basil Chiffonade
Pomodoro Sauce with butter until butter is melted. sauté pan. Parmesan cheese, Romano cheese, and black pepper. Toss cheese in the sauce until the blended.
5. Place in a pasta bowl and drizzle extra virgin olive oil on top. Garnish with a basil sprig in the center.
2008 • il mulino
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a grape review : wines of tuscany by Bob Lipinski
Tuscany, located in central Italy, north of Latium, is the home of such great red wines as Chianti, Brunello di Montalcino, Carmignano, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, and of course Super-Tuscans. White wines of repute include Vernaccia di San Gimignano and the incredible dessert wine, Vin Santo.
For thousands of years, Tuscany has been quietly making red wines from its stable of indigenous, local grapes such as sangiovese, canaiolo nero, ciliegiolo, colorino, and mammolo. Its white wines, made from
Some top-notch Tuscan wineries to seek out are Antinori, Barbi,
the local trebbiano toscano, malvasia, canaiolo bianco, and
Macìe, Ruffino, and Straccali.
grechetto grapes, were aged sometimes for several years in oak
In 1835, Baron Bettino Ricasoli developed and defined the
barrels, creating amber-colored, oxidized, non-fruity wines,
grape variety formula for Chianti wine, which consisted of a
often with hints of vinegar.
blend of sangiovese, canaiolo nero, and malvasia del Chianti
Modern Italy—the last 30 or so years—and younger
grapes. When the DOC—for Denominazione di Origine
Castello Banfi, Castello di Verrazzano (the bridge was named after the explorer), Cecchi, Col d’Orcia, Coldisole, Rocca delle
winemakers have brought plantings of international grapes such
Controllata, the Italian quality-assurance appellation—law
as cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, and syrah for the
for Chianti was instituted on August 30, 1967, the producers
reds, and chardonnay and sauvignon blanc for the whites.
decided not to register a white wine as Chianti.
> 2008 • il mulino
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The waning days of September signal La Vendemmia, the grape harvest, and in Tuscany the event is part of a deep-rooted cultural tradition celebrated by Tuscan winegrowers. Vintners assess with a mystical sixth sense the critical balance of sugar and acidity in their ripening grapes, and at a moment divined only by them, they initiate the harvest. With clippers in hand, young and old snip off heavy clusters of purple-black sangiovese grapes at an unhurried, steady pace, filling small buckets with the precious yield that will make its way to the local winery.
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Chianti Classico, which is made from 80 to 100 percent
Tuscans? It is a loosely defined term, applied to wines that are
sangiovese grapes, along with some optional merlot and cabernet
made from grapes cultivated in the most prestigious vineyard
sauvignon, becomes a riserva when it is aged for two years.
sites. The wines are usually aged in new barrels. Although
Brunello di Montalcino, often referred to as “the wine of kings and king of wines,� has been made since 1842 and was the first wine to be awarded the DOCG, or Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, in 1980. By law, it is made from 100 percent sangiovese grosso grapes, known locally as brunello grapes. It is ruby in color, deepening to garnet with age, with a bouquet and flavor of black currants, chestnuts, and violets. Some Brunello wines are capable of aging 30 or more years. Where would the Italian wine world be without its Super-
most producers use sangiovese as their base blend, along with some cabernet sauvignon, there is no rule as to grape varieties, and many different varieties are included. Some of these Super-Tuscan wines have been described as international inky monsters with ripe fruit and a vanilla-oak nose, having a jammy palate with big, warm alcohol, and considerable amounts of soft extract. Piero Antinori pioneered this movement in 1971 with Tignanello, a wine made from a blend of sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon.
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The wine of saints (Vin Santo) is a specialty of the Italian wine culture. Grapes are handpicked, and the bunches are hung from the rafter of the vinsantaie, usually an open barn-like room with many windows for vigorous air circulation, which allows the fruit to dry out and concentrate its flavors.
Vin Santo is an unfortified dessert wine made from the ripest
In addition to its great wines, Tuscany is a virtual eating paradise
malvasia del Chianti grapes, which are tied together and either
when you consider an array of vegetables that include tender
hung from the beams of a well-ventilated room or dried on
baby artichokes, white asparagus, curly endive, purple eggplant,
straw mats. This process results in the evaporation of a high
and fragrant fennel bulbs. And fettunta (Tuscany’s bruschetta),
percentage of the grapes’ water content, at the same time in-
locally made salame, and of course pappardelle with meat sauce.
creasing the percentage of sugar. The higher the sugar content
Try cacciucco, a fish stew from Livorno; Florentine beef, mostly
of the grape, the higher the resulting alcoholic content and
from the south; or veal cutlets or chops.
the richer the final product. The grapes are crushed during the winter and the must of the grapes placed into oak barrels for about two years. The barrels are filled to three-quarter capacity, closed with a cork or wooden bung, and placed in the winery’s attic, exposed to heat, where the wine is left to ferment slowly. Vin Santo is amber-brown in color with a distinctive and unmistakable nutty bouquet, and overtones of cream, apricots, and various types of nuts.
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The only word you need to know in cooking or eating Tuscan food is … simplicity!
Woodford Reserve: T he Art of Cl a s sic Coc k tail s Classic cocktails are making a big comeback, largely because bartenders – now known as mixologists – have found delicious new ways to serve up old favorites. Take the historic Manhattan for instance. In addition to its widely-debated origin -- some believe it was created for a grand party in New York hosted by descendants of royalty -- its definition is often debated as well. No matter, because it has evolved into an array of full flavored, creative drinks being discovered by a whole new generation.
There is one truth that stands above the fray; the best ingredients make the best cocktails. Full flavored drinks demand a balanced and complex bourbon – and Woodford Reserve fits the bill. Now the experts may write about its “faint aromas of apricot and brown sugar” or its “hints of woody vanilla-tinged spice,” which is all well and good. But what’s most important is that you simply enjoy your Manhattan, or your classic cocktail, or your own unique take on mixology!
Please enjoy Woodford Reserve responsibly. www.woodfordreserve.com Woodford Reserve Distiller’s Select Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey, 45.2% Alc. by Vol., The Woodford Reserve Distillery, Versailles, KY © 2008.
Timeless cocktails made modern with Woodford Reserve, gold medal winner of the world’s three most prestigious tasting competitions. The Woodford Manhattan 2 oz. Woodford Reserve® 1 oz. sweet vermouth 1 dash Angostura® bitters 1 dash Peychaud’s® bitters Splash of cherry juice Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add ingredients and shake well. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a bourbon-infused cherry. The Woodford Mediterranean Manhattan A drink this flavorful calls for a complex bourbon - Woodford Reserve. 2 oz. Woodford Reserve® 1 oz. Tuaca® liqueur 1/4 oz. fresh lemon juice 1/2 oz. simple syrup* Fill a cocktail shaker with ice. Add ingredients and shake well. Strain into a chilled martini glass. Garnish with a twist of lemon. * Simple syrup: boil equal parts water and sugar until sugar dissolves. The Woodford French Manhattan Woodford Reserve adds balance to this delicious, refreshing concoction. 2 oz. Woodford Reserve® 1 oz. Chambord® Dash of bitters Shake ingredients with ice and strain into a martini glass. Garnish with a lemon twist or cherry.
il Mulino. 2008 • il mulino
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Publisher Michael Goldman
Hau te N o te s from the publisher, Haute Notes is about the discovery of all things innovative and exciting
in food and wine, art and design, and style and travel.
Design Director Jana Potashnik BAIRDesign, Inc.
HAUTENOTEWORTHY
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Editor-in-Chief Pamela Jouan
Managing Editor Christian Kappner Copy Editor kelly suzan waggoner Contributing Editor hillary raphael Photography lotte hansen Advertising advertising@hautelifepress.com Marketing Director Katherine Payne
Cucumber Southside
The Little Still That Could
Made to taste.com
The Southside is a classic gin cocktail created at Manhattan’s 21 Club during prohibition. This version with fresh cucumber shows off Hendrick’s unique flavor profile.
With a trend toward artisan spirits in the beverage industry, microdistilling has gone the route of microbrewing. Tuthilltown Spirits, the only whiskey distillery in New York, is handcrafting and hand bottling a variety of spirits in small batches. Their Hudson Single Malt Whiskey is distilled the old-fashioned way, with whole malted barley and nothing else. Rich in color and full flavored, it draws much of its character from aging in small American oak casks.
Launching in summer 2008, MadeToTaste.com is an online shopping destination that offers a curated selection of chef-created and chef-related products. Imagine shopping in a chef ’s pantry for food products, kitchen tools and accessories, and cookbooks! MadeToTaste.com also features chef demonstration videos, recipes, and wine and cocktail pairings.
2 slices cucumber 4 mint leaves 1 1/2 oz Hendrick’s Gin 1/2 oz lemon juice 1/2 oz simple syrup 2 oz soda water Method Assemble all ingredients except soda in a highball glass. Add ice and top with soda water. Garnish with cucumber slice. Stir before serving.
Tokyo: Roppongi Keyakizaka Dori Roppongi Hills 6-1 2-4 Roppongi Minato-Ku Tokyo 106-0032 Tel: 03.5786.0337 Long Island: 1042 Northern Blvd Roslyn, NY 11576 Tel: 516.621.1870
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il mulino • 2008
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