Serving Bloomington, Carmel, Columbus, Indianapolis and more Spring 2014 Issue Eleven
Celebrating the Local Food Culture of Central Indiana, Season by Season
Photos on this page of Feast Bakery Cafe, Bloomington, are by Rod and Deb Smith.
Hoosier Thoughts edible INDY
A WELCOME NOTE FROM THE NEW OWNERS
Thanks for joining us for breakfast. Spring is my favorite season and breakfast is my husband’s favorite meal. A combination made in heaven. So welcome to our first special-edition issue of Edible Indy, with a strong focus on breakfast. We are very proud not only of the content, but of the partners we have made along the way.
This issue brings to light some of our contributors’ favorite recipes, places to visit and people to know. One thing I know for a fact is central Indiana is not short on places to find amazing breakfast creations from all areas of the world. Whether you long for kolaches, tamales, Amish baked pastries, French toast, frittatas, or just a good ole-fashioned bacon, egg and toast breakfast, central Indiana has it.
This winter has been especially snowy and cold for us in the Hoosier state, so I look forward to feeling the sun on my face and preparing my garden seeds so I can feel summer in my heart. We are working to bring the community more resources for the farming and gardening portion of the locavore movement. Recently, we have become members of the Indy Food Council and hope to help spread the love about community gardens, farm-to-institution programs and healthy food resolutions.
We extend a warm welcome to all of the new readers, subscribers and shout-at-the-top-ofyour-lungs advocates of Edible Indy. This spring and summer will allow us to give you one-of-akind content, stories, education and just good reading material!
We hope you enjoy this issue over your cup of coffee, tea or maybe a Sunday morning bloody mary!
Hoosier Hugs,
Jennifer & Jeff
Subscribe now! Give the gift of Edible Indy to someone—even yourself—delivered right to your door! $32 for one year (four issues) or $52 for a two-year subscription (eight issues). Subscribe online at EdibleIndy.com
jennifer@edibleindy.com
Please call or email to inquire about being a member of our advertising partnership and show your support for the local food culture in central Indiana. contact us Contact Us Edible Indy PO Box 155 Zionsville, Indiana 46278
317.489.9194
info@edibleindy.com
Edible Indy is published quarterly (March, May, September and November). Distributed throughout central Indiana and by subscription elsewhere. Subscriptions are $32 for one year/four issues and can be purchased online at EdibleIndy.com or by check to the address above.
Every effort is made to avoid errors, misspellings and omissions. If, however, an error comes to your attention, then you probably have not had enough wine with your healthy food.* Please accept our sincere apologies and, if it’s important, please notify us! Thank you.
*Sarcastic copy courtesy of Edible Berkshires
No part of this publication may be used without written permission from the publisher. © 2014 all rights reserved.
A gluten-free bakery in Broad Ripple. The Measuring Cup, Indianapolis; gfMeasuringCup.com
Warm bread awaits at Amelia’s, Indianapolis; AmeliasBread.com
Start your day with a sweetie caramel pecan roll. Sweet Rose Bakehouse, Columbus; SweetRoseBakehouse.com
Our readers weigh in with their favorites centered around breakfast. Enjoy and explore!
“I own one, so I’d have to say that’s my favorite: Rolling Pin Bakehouse.” —owner of Rolling Pin Bakehouse, Roanoke; RollingPinBakehouse.com
Celebrating over 100 years! Taylor’s Bakery, Indianapolis & Fishers; TaylorsBakery.com
Check out their brioche recipe in this issue! Circle City Sweets, Indianapolis; CircleCitySweets.com
Known for their Red Velvet Cream Filled Layered Cake. Concannon’s Pastries, Muncie
“Hart Bakery, near 10th and Shadeland, on the city’s east side. They are family owned. The staff is very friendly and they do a lot for the community. They are always donating items to my son’s school for special events. I love their Danish. Yum!” Edible Indy gives you kudos for your community support, Hart Bakery! HartBakery.com
Illustrations by Amanda Brinkman
CENTRAL INDIANA BED & BREAKFASTS
A home away from home with more elegance, charm and edibles
STORY AND PHOTOS BY JANE SIMON
AMMESON
When the owners of stately homes, full of history and charm, open their doors, inviting us in, they let us partake, even if for just a night or two, of life lived a century or more ago. Stained-glass windows, lustrous hardwoods, marble, turrets, verandas and elegant period furnishings are more than just a lesson in historic architecture, they immerse us in the past. Elegant snacks in the parlor in the evening and breakfasts in grand dining rooms with delicious offerings served on fragile china help make a bed and breakfast experience sublime. Whether in large cities or small towns, Edible Indy has found such keepsakes not far from home.
Bartholomew County
For years the wonderful Irwin Gardens, part of the two-acre estate located in downtown Columbus, were open to the public. Here thick twists of wisteria, planted in 1911, bloomed in a profusion of purple flowers and the Renaissance-style tiered fountain formed the perfect backdrop to the 13,000-square-foot Edwardian mansion. Though the house was private, that changed several years ago. It now offers the public enjoyment both inside and out.
Boone County
Abed and breakfast for 30 years, the Brick Street Inn has been part of Zionsville’s historic brick-lined Main Street since 1865— making it a perfect spot for guests to visit the nearby boutiques, art galleries and restaurants. All the catering is provided by Patrick’s Kitchen and Drinks, an on-site full-service restaurant with terrace dining in nice weather.
Brown County
Once a general store built in 1916, the Story Inn is now a destination restaurant and the jewel of a pre-Civil War village nestled along a winding rural road in scenic Brown County. The Inn offers elegant farm-to-fork dining and overnight accommodations in what were the homes of early residents, some dating back to 1851. Breakfast here is country-style, with house-made biscuits and gravy, freshly roasted coffee and crab cakes Benedict.
Hamilton County
Just a mile’s drive to downtown Noblesville and built on a rise just across the road from the White River, Sycamore Knoll maintains its rural charm. With four acres of landscaped grounds, the country feel can be found in the orchards, heirloom trees, perennial gardens, porch swing and gazebo. Goodies like chocolate chip cookies can be ordered in advance and there’s a 24-hour snack area in the dining room.
Hancock County
Breakfast by candlelight at the Ivy House, a 1921 manse built on the highest point around. Served on fine china, menu items often include pecan rolls, ham and cheese soufflés, French toast with bacon and freshly made baked goods. Intriguing tidbits about the inn: Jim Nolte—who owns the Ivy House with his wife, Linda—likes to restore old doors and use them in the house. But even more fun, after the Noltes discovered gambling paraphernalia in the basement and the attic and heard rumors that Al Capone (yes, the Al Capone) used to stop by to place a bet or two, the HGTV cable TV program “If Walls Could Talk” came out to film.
Left: Irwin Gardens, Columbus. Above and right: the Story Inn
Hendricks County
At the Old MG Bed & Breakfast, a lovely brick building built in the 1860s outside of Brownsburg, foods are locally sourced and organically grown as much as possible, including their special blend of locally roasted coffee. The home houses a collection of wonderfully restored vintage MG sports cars— hence the name.
Johnson County
The Edinburgh Bed & Breakfast at the Toner-Maley House, a spectacular 140-year-old mansion clad with red brick and white gingerbread, takes us back to how the really rich lived in the 1870s. Lavish interiors with flourishes like arched doorways, sculpted plaster ceilings and inlaid wood floors add to the charm.
Lawrence County
Tunnelton—no, you haven’t heard of it—is home to the stunning 1879 Guthrie Meadows, an Italianate Victorian. Here, owner Annette Fultz, a former restaurateur, creates such Indiana-centric goodies as persimmon bars (nearby Mitchell is home to the annual Persimmon Festival) and sugar cream pie. Located in Limestone Country, there’s an underground river offering boat tours nearby as well as Spring Mill Park, home of Pioneer Village dating back to 1811.
Marion County
Built in 1896, the Nestle Inn, a grand Victorian situated in historic Chatham Arch, offers 21st century amenities amidst 19th century splendor. Sign up for one of the cooking classes that owner Leesa Smith offers most Saturdays, enjoy weekday breakfasts with vouchers for Henry’s Coffee Bistro and, on the weekend, taste the small delicious bites of such early morning offerings as banana stuffed waffles, egg lasagna and breakfast pizza.
Monroe County
Built in 1910 at a cost of $10,000 (a fortune back then), the Showers Inn, on the National Register of Historic Places, features such distinctive architectural features as Corinthian-style columns, a walled-in back garden and carved garland trim. Breakfast is served continental style—but don’t worry, this isn’t the same con-style breakfast you get at a Holiday Inn Express—and guests can partake either in the sunroom, where there are individual tables, or at the large linen-draped table in the formal dining room.
Jane Simon Ammeson is a freelance writer specializing in travel, food and personalities. She is a member of the Society of American Travel Writers, Association of Food Journalists and Midwest Travel Writers Association as well as a James Beard Foundation judge.
Irwin Gardens, Columbus
If you go:
Brick Street Inn
175 S. Main St. Zionsville
317.873.1900
BrickStreetInn.com
Edinburgh Bed & Breakfast at the Toner-Maley House
606 E. Main Cross St. Edinburgh
812.526.6995
Toner-Maley.com
Guthrie Meadows 12406 Tunnelton Rd. Bedford
812.849.0519
GuthrieMeadowsBandB.com
The Inn at Irwin Gardens 608 5th St. Columbus
812.376.3663
IrwinGardens.com
The Ivy House 304 N. Merrill St. Fortman
317.485.4800
IvyHouseBB.com
Nestle Inn 637 N. East St. Indianapolis 317.610.5200
NestleIndy.com
The Old MG Bed & Breakfast 7579 N. State Rd. 267 Brownsburg 317.852.5923
TheOldMG.com
Showers Inn 430 N. Washington St. Bloomington 812.334.9000
ShowersInn.com
Story Inn
6404 S. State Rd. 135 Nashville 812.988.2273
StoryInn.com
Sycamore Knoll B&B 10777 Riverwood Ave. Noblesville
317.776.0570
SycamoreKnoll.com
ROOTS TO SHOOTS Spring Brings Fresh Complements to Stored Veggies
BY ANNIE CORRIGAN OF EARTH EATS
March/April
This is a labor-intensive and expensive time of year for farmers, as they sow seeds and transplant starter crops. They will cart out the last of the potatoes, winter squash and root vegetables that have been stored since the fall harvest. Onions and garlic will also still be in abundance at the winter farmers’ markets. If you enjoy a walk in the woods, now is a perfect time to try foraging for morel mushrooms and ramps (wild leeks).
Consider signing up for a community-supported agriculture (CSA) harvest subscription program in the early spring. You pay the farmer now and then you’ll receive a weekly share of the harvest throughout the growing season. Next to growing your own food, it’s the best way to get connected to your local food environment, as you share in the rewards and the risks of being a farmer. Each CSA is different, so shop around to see which farm best meets your needs!
May
What a difference a month makes! Spinach and salad greens will share farmers’ market tables with strawberries and peppers. Get to your market early in the day to score a bunch of asparagus—they go fast this time of year! Take a chance on some new-to-you vegetables, like kohlrabi or bok choy. Farmers are usually quick with tips for how to incorporate them into your cooking.
Some of the more highly prized wild edibles have retreated for the year, but you can still pick dandelion and mustard greens—get them while they’re still young! Before you go foraging, be sure to pick up a book to help you identify desirable plants (and their impostors), and only forage in places you know have not been sprayed with chemicals. Better safe than sorry is our motto!
Earth Eats is a weekly podcast, public radio program and blog from WFIU-Bloomington, produced by Annie Corrigan. We bring you the freshest news, recipes and interviews inspired by local food and sustainable agriculture. EarthEats.com
Farmer’s Market List
As winter wraps up and spring sprouts, Edible Indy is sowing our extensive summer Farm and Farmer’s Market list for our summer issue. Check edibleindy.com for ongoing year-round markets. Now go play in the dirt and plant a garden!
by Carole Topalian
Illustration
Photo
From the Good Earth
Local Hero Award Winners
Our Readers Salute AwardWinning Food Champions
Best Farm / Farmer Winner: Traders Point Creamery
9101 Moore Rd., Zionsville TradersPointCreamery.com
Owners: Jane Elder Kunz and Dr. Peter Kunz
About: Traders Point Creamery is a familyowned organic dairy farm and artisan creamery with a vision to “nourish the land that nourishes us all.” Since 2003 we have been raising our happy herd of Brown Swiss cows using 100% grass-fed methods to produce cream line milks, yogurts, ice cream and artisan cheeses. Housed in one of our historic barns is The Loft Restaurant and Dairy Bar, where we are proud to share the food we raise and make on the farm for lunch, dinner and Sunday brunch.
Favorite restaurant?
Can’t possibly choose just one!
Favorite food shop? Again, too hard to choose!
Favorite food / beverage artisan? There are so many great ones!
What nonprofit organization do you support the most?
Eagle Creek Nature Conservancy and Preservation
Best Farm / Farmer Runner Up: Heather and Marc Hill
Best Chef / Restaurant and Best Food Shop Winner: The Fig Tree
109 N. Meridian St., Lebanon
Thefigtreecafe.wordpress.com
Owners: Levi and Bethany Deaton
About: We are a unique sandwich shop in downtown Lebanon, where we feature homemade sandwich creations, homemade soup, salads, baked goods and gelato. We specialize in gluten-free and other special dietary needs. We also offer an ever-growing array of gifts and food items, many of which are made in Indiana.
Favorite restaurant?
Parky’s
Favorite food shop?
My favorite food store is the Nature’s Market in our local Kroger because they offer everything to meet my dietary needs without having to go outside of town.
Favorite Food / Beverage Artisan?
The Barefoot Contessa Ina Garten. I learned to cook by watching her.
What nonprofit organization do you support the most?
World Vision. Most of the tips we receive actually go to support two little boys in Africa.
Best Chef / Reswtaurant and Best Food Shop
Runner Up: Ryan Nelson of Late Harvest and Smoking Goose
Best Food Artisan Winner: Fermenti Artisan
222 E. Market St., Indianapolis City Market Facebook.com/fermentiartisan
Owners: Mark Cox and Joshua Henson
About: Focused on proper nutrition and natural simple flavors, we recognize that the most important daily function is to have a relationship with your food, where it comes from and what it does to your body. We place a very strong emphasis on local and organic nutrient-dense foods sourced directly from family farms. Fermenti Artisan specializes in traditionally crafted cultured vegetables and beverages recognizing the importance of gut health.
Favorite restaurant?
INgredients at 71st & Binford
Favorite food shop?
Pogue’s Run Grocery
Favorite food / beverage artisan?
Joe Gady, Farming for Life. We love his fermented vegetables and fermented drinks!
What nonprofit organization do you support the most?
Weston A. Price Foundation / Farm To Consumer Legal Defense Fund
Best Food Artisan Runner Up: Sun King
Best Nonprofit Winner: Second Helpings
1121 Southeastern Ave., Indianapolis SecondHelpings.org
CEO: Jennifer Vigran
About: Each day, Second Helpings volunteers and staff rescue prepared and perishable food from wholesalers, retailers and restaurants—preventing unnecessary waste. That rescued food is used to create more than 3,500 hot, nutritious meals each day, which are distributed to 70 social services agencies that feed people in need. The Second Helpings Culinary Job Training program trains disadvantaged adults for careers in the food service industry. This helps eliminate hunger at its source.
Favorite restaurant?
Our lunch room, where we serve lunch to volunteers each day.
Favorite food?
Our favorite beverage at Second Helpings is ice water. It gets hot in the kitchen! What nonprofit organization do you support the most?
At Second Helpings, our meals are delivered to 70 social service agencies. So we support 70 different nonprofits!
Best Nonprofit Runner Up: Love INC of Boone County
BREAKFAST FOR TWO Morning Coffee with Jeff and Candace Finch of Finch’s Brasserie
BY HEATHER TALLMAN PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIC RUDD PHOTOGRAPHY
Ihave often heard it said that the one meal chefs most often eat with their loved ones is breakfast. That’s the case for Jeff and Candace Finch, owners of Finch’s Brasserie in Bloomington.
In the few hours before they begin dinner service or in the time between shopping locally for ingredients, Jeff and Candace let loose at home with what many call the most important meal of the day: breakfast. Freed from fuss or rules, and with only their own palates to please, they find the habit to be another extension of their creativity.
I recently sat down with them at their home away from home to ask what they enjoyed making for themselves “off the clock” and about the direction they are headed in 2014. I wanted to hear their story and a get a behind-thecurtain glimpse into what they make for themselves when no one is looking.
I imagine some of their favorite dishes are invented in those hours at home. It is a great chance to experiment with new recipes and combinations at their own pace before teaching their experienced kitchen staff. Education and training are key to the success of Finch’s Brasserie, which is evident from the moment you take a seat in their warm and comfortable dining room.
Candace and Jeff Finch came to Indiana from a thriving restaurant in a town in Vermont that boasted the lack of a McDonald’s: Montpelier. Jeff had moved from Michigan to Vermont and attended the New England Culinary Institute, graduating in 1996. Within five days he and Candace, who had earned a degree in architectural design, both began working at the same restaurant, Sarducci’s. With Jeff as sous-chef and Candace running the front of the house, they met and later married. Over the course of 11 years they built a successful dining destination where diners became family and visitors became friends.
“We were lucky enough to throw a party every night for almost everyone
“I wanted to make a family atmosphere here. Our regulars were like family. We watched their kids grow up.” said Candace
we knew. We were in a small town but in spite of that the restaurant grossed over $2 million a year and seated between 300 and 450 people a night,” said Candace about their experience at Sarducci’s.
Jeff and Candace had a regular diner who had a summer home there in Vermont. A Kelley School of Business and Indiana University graduate, he wanted to replicate his dining experience in Vermont back in Bloomington. The couple was asked to make a trip to the Hoosier State to get a feel for the town and its culture—research before deciding to make the big move from Vermont to Indiana. The Bloomington native was able to entice them to move here to help with the project. They later took it over and Finch’s Brasserie was born.
“When we were first romanced to come to Bloomington and start a restaurant project, we were taken to a lot of different places to get a feel for the town. Where we were from it was and still is the only state capital without certain fast-food chains. So when we came here we looked around and wondered where everyone who was like us ate. Where did they enjoy quality food in a comfortable setting? The day we were flying out, we had decided we weren’t going to take the project. We asked to stop by the farmers’ market on the way to the airport. It was then that we looked around and thought, “There are our people. Here they are!” We walked around and talked to people—the farmers and artisans. We realized it was a possibility. The restaurant could sustain itself here,” Candace said.
Steps from the Sample Gates and in the heart of the Bloomington entertainment and arts district, Finch’s has become a home to many, as well as a popular dining spot for my husband and I. In fact, we have been dining there since they opened in their first incarnation: Trulli Flatbread. Sensing that Bloomington did not want local field-to-fork pizza (at that
time), the Finches changed the menu and feel to what we now know as Finch’s Brasserie.
They bought the former Discount Den location in April 2008 and Candace designed the interior herself, using architectural elements and reclaimed items of historical significance to the area. She brought themes from Bloomington and the surrounding area to the walls of the restaurant. Like a blank canvas she filled it with highlights of stacked limestone walls, warm wooden floors and one-of-a-kind artwork from local artisans as well as the work of Indiana University neuroscientist Alex Straiker. Unique touches abound, from the historic wallpaper design of Candace Wheeler used in the bathrooms to the bar railing from Discount Den they saved and installed upstairs.
When asked to sum up the method to the restaurant’s success, Chef Jeff Finch explained, “We serve seasonal food first and foremost. We try to use as many local ingredients as possible and we make almost every ingredient in house.”
Leading a kitchen and running a restaurant is a hard job that is far from glamorous and nothing like what you see on television. Take out the bright lights and big names and you are left with a business to run, hungry diners and employees you are responsible for. Taking the time to only hire those who will represent your style and expectations is a must and Finch’s does just that. You not only have to love the art of food and fine dining, you have to live it. Their passion for providing a culinary experience, not just a bite to eat, is evident all around the restaurant.
In 2014 they have restructured their hours of operation to close from 3pm to 5pm, to allow for a break—a chance to sit down for a meal with each other and their employees. Now that they are established and able to take a step back, Jeff and Candace are focusing more on teaching.
“In a town where turnover is so high in this business, we have really been able to retain our employees. We are really proud of that. Probably one of the best things we experience with our staff is that aha moment. Watching it click, seeing their wheels turning. To watch them own it and be able to talk about it at the table. That is success to me.” shared Candace.
“This is the hardest yet most rewarding job I have ever had. You really have to love this to put in the hours that we do. But it’s the best thing” said Candace when I asked about their schedule. So the hours
“People come for the experience. There is a process to cooking. It is more than just putting layer on layer of ingredients,” said Candace.
before they step in the restaurant and the meals they can share together in those times are golden. Enter in my interest in what they have for breakfast.
More time outside of the restaurant will lead to more delicious discoveries in their home kitchen. Jeff stepped into the kitchen to make us an example of a pizzetta, which while not on the menu, they make for each other after the night winds down or for an early breakfast. A hand-pressed crust topped with thinly sliced potatoes, arugula, red onion and finished with sunny-sideup eggs and baked in their woodfired oven. A real chef’s breakfast.
514 E. Kirkwood Ave.
Finch’s Brasserie
Liquid Assets
SUNDAY BRUNCH
At Feast Bakery Cafe in Bloomington
STORY AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROD AND DEBRA SMITH OF SMITH BITES
The outside air is brisk; grated metal chairs tilt forward propped onto outdoor tables waiting for both the sun and guests to appear. Inside, a smile at the check-in station and murmured conversations blend with Aretha Franklin’s ‘Chain of Fools’ as the steady hiss of an espresso machine pulls one silky, caramel stream after another into warmed, waiting mugs. Booths and tables alike are at capacity as friends, family, and couples connect over steaming plates of Shrimp and Grits, Biscuit Boards stacked with house biscuits served with spoon fruit, local goat butter and spice honey, Croque Madames, or Breakfast Tamales … it’s just a typical Sunday Brunch at Feast Bakery Café in Bloomington.
We discovered Feast several years ago at one of the local Farmer’s Markets; it was a scorching hot summer day, the thermometer pushing 100 degrees. Vendors were under canopied stalls and as we entered the market, we noticed a very long line at a particular vendor table—Feast—and the single item available? Tamales. We purchased a 4-pak, some homemade mango salsa and headed home; we steamed our first batch and have been hooked ever since.
The Café is a small space with pale green walls, amber-colored pendant lights, a pastry case filled with breads, cakes, cookies and bars—all made from scratch on site. In fact, business has been so successful they need more prep space to keep up with demand; they’re opening a second location in Bloomington sometime this spring. Coffee, tea and pastries will be available at the second location while housing the entire baking operation in the back.
The fair-trade coffee is always fresh, the orange juice fresh-squeezed, and the wait staff is knowledgeable and efficient—right in line with the soothing ambiance of the place. And even though you will most likely leave with a full belly, you might be tempted to sneak a peek at what’s inside the pastry case and grab a little something for later. Lines may be a bit long, but customers are content to chat with friends while waiting for an open table; the comfortable atmosphere, combined with a flair for thoughtfully prepared fresh food, makes Feast Bakery Café a food destination worthy of the wait.
Feast Bakery Café
812.822.0222
FeastCateringOnline.com
Mon: Closed
Tue–Thu: 8am –9pm Fri–Sat: 8am–10pm Sun: 9am–3pm
Co-founders of SmithBites.com, Rod, aka ‘The Professor’ and Debra Smith are professional photographers, videographers, writers and storytellers whose first life involved creating jingles and voice-over for radio, television and film. Their love of food as well as a great story has allowed The Smiths to photograph and create videos about food on both coasts of the US and in Europe – at Smith Bites, ‘it’s the food that connects us all.’
Strawberry Spoon Fruit
Erika Yochum, Feast Bakery Café
Yields approximately 8 cups
6 cups strawberries
4 cups raw sugar
3 tablespoon aged balsamic vinegar
1 orange, zest and juice
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon fresh cracked pepper
Preheat oven to 375°
Wash and hull the strawberries; halve the large ones and roughly mash the small ones with a spoon. Toss the strawberries with the rest of the ingredients. Pour onto a baking tray or dish with sides and roast until bubbly and thick, about 30 minutes; spoon fruit will thicken as it cools.
Spoon Fruit is delicious on Greek yogurt, ice cream, or pancakes.
Cooking with...
...Cindy Hawkins of Circle City Sweets
BRIOCHE
WRITTEN BY CINDY
HAWKINS,
PHOTOGRAPHY BY HEATHER TALLMAN
Brioche is a French enriched bread, meaning it has a large quantity of egg and butter compared to most other breads, which contain neither. It is also made with a small amount of sugar as well as milk or cream. Brioche can be eaten as a snack on its own, but is also often used in bread pudding and French toast because it holds up so well when used in these preparations.
The key to making brioche is working in a cool environment. If your kitchen is too warm, the butter will melt and your bread will not end up with the correct texture.
Brioche is often seen in a loaf or as a roll. The fun thing with brioche is that it can be so versatile. Add some chocolate chips, cinnamon, raisins, bacon and cheese—whatever you like!
I recommend you weigh your ingredients using a simple and inexpensive kitchen scale like we do in the bakery. Those weights are given (in parentheses) as well.
Yield: 5 mini loaves
1¾ tablespoons (25 grams) whole milk
¾ teaspoon (4 grams) dry yeast
¼ cup (30 grams) all-purpose flour
¾ teaspoon (4 grams) sea salt
1½ tablespoons (20 grams) sugar
¾ cup (170 grams) bread flour
2 whole eggs (110 grams)
7 tablespoons (100 grams) soft butter
For the egg wash
1 egg
1 eggwhite
1 teaspoon cream
Pinch salt
Combine the milk and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer. Sprinkle the all-purpose flour over it to cover the top. Leave it alone until cracks start to form in the flour— this tells us the yeast is active.
Add salt, sugar, bread flour and eggs. Mix on medium speed in mixer until the dough wraps around the dough hook, about 10 minutes. Add half of the softened butter and mix on low speed for 3 minutes. Add remaining butter and mix on medium speed for 5 minutes.
Empty dough into a clean bowl, cover and let rise until it doubles in volume. Press out gasses and let rise again in refrigerator for at least 2 hours, or overnight. Press out gasses. Divide dough with a knife (do not pull or tear) and shape into desired sizes to fit in greased loaf pans.
In a small bowl, beat together egg wash ingredients, brush over top of loaves, and place in a warm spot to proof until dough doubles in volume. Then bake at 350° for approximately 30 minutes or until pick comes out clean.
Chef Cindy Hawkins grew up in a baking family, baking alongside her grandmother, mother and sisters. In 2006, she launched Circle City Sweets and in 2008 moved to Chicago to attend the prestigious French Pastry School. In 2010 she opened her retail location at the Indianapolis City Market and continues to participate in many local farmers’ markets. Chef Hawkins also teaches in the baking and pastry department at Ivy Tech Community College. Find Chef Cindy Hawkins at CircleCitySweets.com or @CircleCitySweets
produce is proud to feature products from local farmers & artisans.
Brioche
Piazza
JAM ON
Not Your Momma’s Preserves
WRITTEN AND PHOTOGRAPHED BY SUZANNE KROWIAK
Nothing is better on a weekend morning than toast with homemade jam. Not only does it taste delicious, it’s one of the prettiest things you can put on your table.
The great news is that you don’t have to know how to can food or have buckets of fresh fruit to get started. Small-batch jam is perfect for people who want to pick up a small amount of produce at the farmers’ market or grocery, and have something on the table within 30 minutes.
This raspberry vanilla jam with black pepper is one of my favorites. One of the reasons I love it is because it’s so easy to throw together. There is no peeling, seeding or chopping necessary. You just rinse your raspberries and throw them in a saucepan with lemon juice, sugar, a vanilla bean and fresh-ground black pepper.
This jam will be stored in the refrigerator, and not canned. That means you can be flexible on the amounts of sugar and lemon juice you add to the pan. When canning food to store in the pantry, more specificity is required in the amount of acid and sugar, because both are important players in the preservation and safety of a shelf-stable jam.
If you try the recipe below and it’s too sweet, reduce the sugar. If it’s not sweet enough, add more. Same thing goes for the lemon juice. Feel free to adjust the amount to your personal taste. Be aware this version has less sugar than a typical jam recipe. Since it will be stored in the refrigerator and eaten right away, I really wanted the flavor of the raspberries to be the star.
Serve it alongside your favorite bread, or even on a charcuterie tray with some strong-flavored cheeses and cured meats. Your guests will be impressed, and your belly will be pleased.
Suzanne Krowiak is a Master Food Preserver and founder of Indy Food Swappers. A former television writer and producer, she currently teaches classes and gives presentations on food preservation and other D.I.Y. food topics. Follow her @indyfoodswap on Twitter.
Small-Batch Raspberry Vanilla Jam with Black Pepper
Yield: About 1 cup
1 pound fresh raspberries
½ cup sugar (more or less, to taste)
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
1 vanilla bean
Fresh ground pepper, to taste
In a large saucepan, mash the raspberries with a potato masher. Add the sugar and lemon juice, and stir to combine. Cut the vanilla bean in half. Split open each half and scrape the seeds into the jam mixture. Throw the pods in the pot as well.
Over medium heat, cook the mixture, stirring gently, until the sugar is dissolved. Add ¼ teaspoon fresh ground pepper (more or less, to taste).
Raise the heat to medium-high and boil gently, stirring frequently, until it begins to thicken to a jam-like consistency. This will take approximately 10–20 minutes, depending on the intensity of the heat.
One way to test if the jam is ready is to put a small spoon in your freezer when you start the recipe. When you see the jam is thickening, turn off the heat. Take the cold spoon out of the freezer, scoop up a small amount of the jam, and return the spoon to the freezer (on a small plate, to avoid a mess). After 2–3 minutes, take the spoon out of the freezer and hold it up sideways. If it has the consistency of jam out of the refrigerator, it’s ready. If the jam drips off the spoon like thin soup, continue heating the jam on the stovetop over medium heat until you reach the desired consistency. Remember: It will thicken when you refrigerate it, so don’t overcook it.
Remove the vanilla bean pods from the saucepan and discard. Ladle the jam into a jar or bowl, and allow to cool completely at room temperature before refrigerating. Jam will last 2–3 weeks in the refrigerator.
RISE AND DINE
Breakfast! Breakfast! Read All About it!
WRITTEN BY ERIN DAY
PHOTOGRAPHY BY HEATHER TALLMAN, ERIN DAY, ROD AND DEB SMITH
ILLUSTRATION BY AMANDA BRINKMAN
They say breakfast is the most important meal of the day, and I would argue it is also one of the best. I don’t think I have ever met anyone who doesn’t like breakfast food. You can stay on the savory side with eggs in a hundred variations or you can legitimately eat what is basically dessert as a meal, with things like pancakes, waffles and crepes.
Here in Indianapolis, we are also blessed with Smoking Goose—purveyors of wonderful meats who give us some of the best bacon and sausage I’ve tasted. You’ll find their products at restaurants around the state. Central Indiana certainly has a plethora of wonderful breakfast options spanning all spectrums of the breakfast possibilities.
I love eggs in just about every form—and if it’s eggs you want, you certainly won’t have any trouble finding a great meal. For my favorite egg sandwich, start with any of the variations of Café Patachou’s broken yolk sandwiches. The thick buttery bread and perfectly runny eggs are great on their own, but my personal favorite is the one that also includes avocado and Indiana bacon.
Other great options downtown are the breakfast sandwiches from Circle City Soups at the City Market, which are served on delicious homemade Circle City Sweets croissants. You can get the American version with eggs, cheddar and bacon, or the French version with eggs, gruyere and Smoking Goose City Ham.
If Eggs Benedict are more up your alley, Ruth’s Café offers versions beyond the traditional poached egg with Canadian bacon and English muffin. They have several varieties including one over crab cakes and one over Norwegian potato cakes. Also, Northside Kitchenette offers a great Benedict that slightly varies from the traditional by using crispy bacon pieces on the muffin and slightly spicy garlic Hollandaise over a perfectly poached egg.
One of the best breakfast burritos (they call it a “wrap”) in town is the one at Taste Café. As big as your head, it’s filled with the most miraculously fluffy scrambled eggs, cheddar cheese, ham, roasted tomatoes, greens and roasted red pepper vinaigrette. It’s the vinaigrette that makes this so special—and the kind of touch that makes all of Taste’s food so fantastic.
Or how about a breakfast pizza? You have to travel south to get this one at FARM Bloomington, but it’s worth it. It’s a thin handmade crust topped with spinach, bacon, gouda and two poached eggs—completely craveable.
A lot of places claim to offer the best biscuits and gravy in Indy, and there are a lot of great options, but my favorite is probably the one at SoBro Café. You get two biscuits that are covered in peppery, spicy sausage gravy—it’s slightly thinner gravy than most, and just carries the flavors of the sausage and seasonings wonderfully.
Craving a straight up, greasy spoon kind of bacon and eggs meal (the kind you want after a late night out)? For this, my favorite spot is Keystone Deli. The prices are right, you get a ton of food and they cook the eggs exactly how you order them. You can choose home fries or hash browns and they’ll cook them extra crispy if you want (and you do).
If you like a freshmade corned beef hash, Good Morning Mama’s makes their own corned beef and tops the mix of
potatoes and meat with two expertly prepared eggs.
At the opposite end of that spectrum, my favorite “sophisticated breakfast” place is Eggshell Bistro in Carmel. They serve sublime items like truffled egg brioche and pancetta bruschetta with roasted asparagus, red onion marmalade and a perfectly seasoned and poached egg. That La Quercia pancetta literally melts in your mouth. The portions are restrained and the tastes are perfectly balanced. This is not the place for a big cowboy breakfast.
On the sweet side, you can get your fill of delicious pancakes at the aptly named Hotcakes Emporium. So fluffy and sweet, they don’t even need the powdered sugar that is sprinkled on top. Or, if you like a little color with your flapjacks, how about the red velvet pancakes at Hoaglin to Go? They’re rich and decadent with chocolate chips inside and cream cheese icing on top. On Colts game days, they often will make you a blue pancake as well.
Or how about crème brulee French toast? At Zest!, you can get this over-the-top version of the classic breakfast dish made with egg bread, a bunch of cream and a crisp top. When you eat
Erin Day is a freelance food writer and blogger who is always looking for her next good meal. Find her Indianapolis restaurant reviews at IndyRestaurantScene.com and connect with her on Twitter @indyrestscene.
this, you feel more like you are eating cake for breakfast—a really moist cake with a good kick of vanilla. And while you’re there, make sure you get a side of the creamy, cheesy, cowboy potatoes with a wonderful sour cream flavor.
Other little hidden gems are the fresh fried doughnuts they serve in the never-ending breadbasket at the Las Vegas–themed Best Bet in Noblesville. They are coated in cinnamon sugar and are only served during the week, so plan accordingly.
These are only a few of the wonderful breakfast morsels available around Indiana—really, there are endless possibilities. Check the websites or addresses below to find exact locations for all the places mentioned above.
RaIsE It Up!
TASTY OATMEAL YOU CAN EAT OUT OF HAND
PHOTOGRAPHY, RECIPE AND STORY BY
JENNIFER RUBENSTEIN
Breakfast. Who doesn’t love it? Within our family, we love everything from eggs to French toast, lox and bagels to fresh fruit. One thing my family loves almost as much as they love my cheesecake is my baked oatmeal. It is easy yet scrumptious, healthy yet decadent. It’s a great meal for yourself or a crowd.
This is my go-to breakfast in the dead of winter, but on cool spring days I love to make a batch and eat it either with milk or topped with my favorite flavor of yogurt. My kids and husband love to eat it like bars for snacks throughout the day. However you eat it, I hope you enjoy it as much as I do and that it becomes a staple in your recipe box!
Banana Nut Baked Oatmeal
Serves 4–6
2¼ cups old-fashioned oats
2 eggs, lightly beaten
2½ cups milk
4 tablespoons melted butter
½ cup brown sugar, packed
¼ cup pure maple syrup
½ cup roughly chopped pecans
2 ripe bananas, mashed
1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice
½ teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon baking powder
Preheat oven to 350°. Spray a 9- by 13inch pan or 4 (5-inch) ramekins with nonstick cooking spray and set aside.
In a large bowl, whisk together the oats, salt, baking powder, pumpkin pie spice, pecans and brown sugar. In another bowl, beat together the milk, eggs, mashed bananas and maple syrup. Pour wet ingredients into dry ingredients and mix well.
Pour oatmeal into prepared dish(es) and drizzle melted butter over top. Stir gently and place in oven for 45–55 minutes, until golden brown and fluffy.
