High Country Visitor Guide 2013 by Hawk Media

Summer 2013

Rio Grande del Norte National Monument

Zing.

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ide open, the old truck doesn’t go much over 60; it runs a lot smoother around 50 if the roads are good like the stretch of Highway 522 running parallel to the Rio Grande Gorge north of Taos. But 50 is plenty fast enough; we’re in no hurry. Still, the gear in back – cooler, fly rods, waders, spare tire, jack, rusty shovel, jumper cables – bangs around a bit. At the sleepy little village of Arroyo Hondo, we cross the bridge past the Midtown Market (formerly Herb’s Lounge) and head left towards the Rio. It’s one of those windswept Southwest spring days, sun-scorched land in need of a storm and drenching rain. A dust devil swirls in the distance. East lies Taos Mountain; north and west Antonio Mountain and the Gun Barrel rifling up to Colorado. Out here, there’s lots of room for living and we take it all in through the open windows: air that smells of sage, chamisa, juniper, piñon. Sun, wind, swirling dust and dog hair mix in the cab, a wake of dust chasing the truck. Moving across the mesa – dark, cool mountains on the horizon – you know you’re close to something unique, vintage New Mexico visuals all around, far from anything but at the same time in the middle of it all. Lots of locals have a favorite stretch of road – the Enchanted Circle loop around Wheeler Peak, the high road to Santa Fe, 64 to Chama past Hopewell Lake and then the Brazos, Black Lake to Mora or Guadalupita, bumping up to Latir Lakes – there’s lots of them. And the trip from Arroyo Hondo to the gorge is a heavyweight contender. (It was at the turn off Highway 522 that I once saw an old man hitchhiking with a washing machine.) We bounced over a cattle guard – the road not as rickety as our truck – past old adobe sheds and dogs sleeping in the shade. The creek stumbles at first, trying to gain momentum, then gently tumbles, ricochets and leap frogs into pools where trout likely hide under riffles and ledges. Birds flit from roadside bushes. Ahead, a coyote crosses. Three bighorn sheep tiptoe up a small cliff and stare down at us as if to say, “What is all that racket?” Below the bighorns we cross the creek and drift downstream to the Rio Grande Gorge – harsh, beautiful cliffs climbing out of the river. Sand beaches bank both sides of the John Dunn Bridge. Down here you step out of yourself and get carried away watching a hawk climb, circling into the sky, then pulling a magic trick disappearing into a cloud. Look up the canyon and it’s Mother Nature kicking back, sun-tanning. Hot springs, petroglyphs – time stuck in the jagged rocks. And the sound of the river – it’s like God singing… or humming. The storm – the much-needed thunderous storm and drumming of rain… that would be singing. There are tons of tales that could be told by the river, stories wrapped inside other stories, like fish inside a newspaper. Or maybe the river would share a joke or anecdote. It may come as a surprise to you, but I happen to know that old locals and crusty characters aren’t always as cool as we make them out to be. Back when an old guy I know was young, we were trekking down the stream below the Red River Hatchery – backpacks loaded with supplies, fly rods in hand – heading to the Rio. We talked at times, fine-tuning a story we’d told too often, but there were mostly long, quiet spells when we just walked, soaking up the riparian sounds, sights and smells. Sometimes we’d stop and stare down into

PHOTO: RYAN HEFFERNAN

HighCountry 2013

Ride the Zipline a pool looking for the dark line of a trout dorsal, a tail rise or a flash of movement. Looking for fish sometimes rivals catching them. After a while, we fell into our own worlds and drifted apart. A few miles down, the trail ended at the river, then started up on the other side. I stripped down, anchored my pack on top of my head and forded the stream, sliding my feet slowly along the bottom, step by step, until I was chest-deep by a large boulder, then plodded up the other side. There, I dried in the sun and continued down stream. Later on, a ledge jutted out into the creek so I glanced upstream and spotted my buddy at the creek crossing. You could tell a plan was being hatched. He walked back into the woods and came back with a weathered aspen pole. At the river’s edge the he tested the pole for strength, then planted one end well into the water on the creek bottom. It looked like he was planning to pole vault out to the boulder. Nice. Of course, everything went wrong. Still, he looked completely surprised when, midair, the pole slipped and he slipped and his backpack and fly rod slipped as he slammed into the boulder, sliding into the river with all his gear. I sat eating raspberries as he flailed to the surface then stomped out of the stream dragging all his gear. Understandably, he was whipped up, probably cussing himself, pointing a finger at his face saying “Idiot.” Later I reminded him of the line – Jump, Jimmy, Jump. I think you can make it in two jumps. Drying out all his clothes and sleeping bag by the fire, he didn’t find it too amusing. He did later get a drink named after him – Jimmy On The Rocks. (The same brain trust also once named a Bloody Mary made with pickled elk heart: Toxic Waste. But that’s another story.) A toast: Here’s hoping you’ll enjoy your visit and carve out a few of your own stories.

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CONTENTS 4

Welcome

Fishing Retreats

Our Towns

Historic Hotels

Rio Grande… An American Classic

On The Green: Mountains & Mesas

Tales From The Tailwaters

Old Martina’s Hall

Red Bull & NBC

Dining

Alpine Lodges

Calendar of Events

Rio Grande Area Tours

Festival Favorites

Four Rivers, Four Guides

PUBLISHER/EDITOR

Joe Haukebo

DESIGN/PRODUCTION ADVERTISING SALES

Digerati Design Jess Heald

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS John Biscello, Michelle Potter, Doc Thompson PHOTOGRAPHY Jack Affleck, Ryan Heffernan, Tina Larkin, Chris McLennan, Geraint Smith, Jerome De Wolfe COVER PHOTO Geraint Smith: Rio Grande del Norte National Monument HighCountry and SkiCountry Visitor Guides are published by Hawk Media. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permissionfrom the Publisher. Requests for permission should be directed to:

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HighCountry 2013

TAOS

ANGEL FIRE

he hits keep on coming for this funky iconoclast of a town. From the highlyanticipated appearance of Grammy-award-winning band, Mumford & Son, at this year’s Solar Fest (June 6), to the designation of the Rio Grande del Norte as a national monument, Taos keeps its magnetic draw vital and varied. The Taos Pueblo, a “living legend” in its own right, plays host to the Taos Pueblo Pow-Wow (July 12-14), where members of Indian tribes throughout the nation engage in dance competitions. Fiesta de Taos weekend (July 19-21), means both an honoring of Taos Patron Saints, Santiago and Santana, and a sampling of local Hispanic culture through food, music, crafts, and more. And, of course, the Gorge, the now-memorialized chasm which is the centerpiece of the Rio Grande del Norte, is a prehistoric playground where fly fishing, hiking, birdwatching, kayaking, whitewater rafting, and hot air balloon rides round out a summer-friendly agenda. For more on Taos, visit Taos.org.

Two things you can count on when visiting the resort town of Angel Fire during the summer: jaw-dropping, eyecandy sunsets, and adrenaline-boosting fun. A lyrical remix of Devo—Zip it/ Zip it good—could be the anthem for the wildly popular Zipline Adventure Tour, in which “zipsters” cable-glide action-adventure-style from platform to platform. Worldclass is synonymous with various recreational choices in Angel Fire: Angel Fire Bike Park (featuring terrain for downhill, cross country, and all-mountain-styles of mountain bike riding), the PGA-ranked Angel Fire Resort Golf Course, or the Music From Angel Fire chamber music series, which is celebrating its 30th anniversary. For more on Angel Fire visit AngelFireFun.com.

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RED RIVER Wild western flair, folksy casualness, a gold-tinted mining town past, and landscape that’s easy on the eyes are all composite elements forming the character of Red River. Main Street invites

Our

TOWNS

strolling in the sun, with pubs, bars, restaurants, and shops as possible pit stops. The Hoodstock Art and Music Festival (July 6), will feature a talent-rich smorgasbord of musicians and artists from Northern New Mexico. Hot Chili Days, Cool Mountain Nights (August 15-17) spices up the competition with a Chili Cook-off, and the NM State Green Chile Championship. For more on Red River, visit RedRiver.org.

Angel Fire Chama Cimarron Clayton Durango Eagle Nest Las Vegas Pagosa Springs Red River South Fork Taos

EAGLE NEST Anglers take note: the pristine Village of Eagle Nest is home to Eagle Nest Lake, which offers some of the region’s finest fishing for rainbow trout and kokanee salmon. When you’re not reeling-and-dealing, there’s plenty of nature to explore in and around the 1.6 million acre Carson National Forest, which borders Eagle Nest. For more on Eagle Nest, visit EagleNest.org.

Taos Ski Valley

CHAMA Memory lane has many routes, reflective of many eras, when it comes to the Village of Chama. A 19th

PHOTOS – GERAINT SMITH

century boom town where blackjack, moonshine and gunplay were the disorder of the day; a burial ground for dinosaur fossils and archaeological artifacts; a setting for a steam-engine locomotive—The Cumbres-Toltec Scenic Railroad—that’s been chugging along since 1880. South, visit the Puye Cliff Dwellings, a national monument operated by the Santa Clara Pueblo, whose peoples are the descendants of the 1,500 Pueblo Indians that lived in the dwellings for more than three centuries (from the 900s to 1580 A.D.). Two different self-guided tours—The Cliff Trail and the Mesa Top Trail—take you into 10

the heart of an architecturally enduring past, with breathtaking views of the Rio Grande as an added visual bonus. For more on Chama, visit ChamaValley.com.

PAGOSA SPRINGS Located within the sprawling San Juan National Forest, and hemmed in by the cloud-piercing San Juan Mountains, Pagosa is a jewelof-an-oasis. Pagosa (which comes from “Pagosah,” the Southwestern Ute word for “healing waters”) offers three different hot spring facilities—The Springs Resort and Spa, Healing Waters Resort & Spa, and Overlook Mineral Springs Spa. Tonic-for-the-

soul may come in the form of mineral pools, baths, rooftop tubs, and massage treatments. Hiking, biking, rock climbing, fishing, golfing, horseback riding, boating, and disc golf are other activities that keep summer in Pagosa humming along. For more, go to VisitPagosaSprings.com.

RIO GRANDE COUNTY Rio Grande County, the nexus of the San Luis Valley, covers 913 square miles and includes three municipalities—South Fork, Monte Vista and Del Norte. South Fork, formerly a logging camp and one of Colorado’s newest towns, marks the

beginning of the Silver Thread National Scenic Byway, a viscerally-inspiring route that follows the Rio Grande into its headwaters in the San Juan Mountains. A setting comprised of mountains, lakes, and alpine valleys makes South Fork an ideal playground for varied outdoor recreation. Crosscountry biking becomes part of the summer fare in the postcard-quaint town of Del Norte, with the Del Norte Mountain Bike Stage Race occurring every July. Nearby Penitente Canyon has become a hot spot for those bent on ascent… through rock climbing. Monte Vista— Spanish for “mountain view”—is home to the Monte Vista Wildlife National Refuge. 14,804 acres of artificially created wetlands serve as the habitat for mallards, pintail teal, Canada geese, American avocets, white-faced ibis, egrets, and herons. Tours and educational programs are offered. For more, visit RioGrandeCountry.com.

DURANGO Durango, if described in the style of wine, might be detailed as such: light, easygoing, fun, with notes of intensity and a strong finish. This mountain town with a ranching past has become a popular Colorado tourist HighCountry 2013

destination. The Animas River, which runs through downtown, is a fly fisher’s gold mine, while whitewater rafting, kayaking and canoeing are other ways to go with the flow. Cinematic visions of damsels-in-distress tied to tracks by twirlymoustached villains may be conjured by the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, whose steam engine locomotive has been in operation since 1880. Now part of a “heritage railway” experience, passengers can ride the rails from Durango to the historic mining town of Silverton. The True West Railfest (August 15-18) will feature Western-style events, such as the World Fast Draw Association Shoot-out, along with a vintage collection of railroad cars and equipment. Durango Fiesta Days (July 20-28) celebrates the community’s rural past, with festive pageants, street dancing, rodeo events, and pies galore. For more on Durango, visit Durango.com

treks, concerts, mountain biking and more are served up on a seasonal basis. For more, visit TaosSkiValley.com

TAOS SKI VALLEY

LAS VEGAS

Don’t let the name mislead you. While Taos Ski Valley is indeed a world-class, slopefriendly paradise for skiers, high-altitude fun in the summer is also part of its wellrounded character. Moonlight hikes, horseback riding, llama

What’s made in Vegas, stays in Vegas. Hence the 1,000-plus buildings listed on the National Register of Historic Places, earning Las Vegas its title as “one of the bestpreserved outdoor museums.” LasVegasNewMexico.com

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CIMARRON If ghostly lore floats your boat, then drop in at the St. James Hotel in Cimarron. With some of its outlaw “interior decorators” leaving bullet holes in the wall as a stylistic statement, the rough-and-tumble past of the St. James Hotel is a sneakpeek into the psyche of the Wild West. Numerous ghosts are said to call the St. James home. Check out Philmont Scout Ranch, largest private backpacking facility in the world. For more information, visit CimarronNM.com.

CLAYTON The first town along the Santa Fe Trail, Clayton is shot through with a rugged and unpretentious splendor. Clayton Lake State Park hosts various summertime events. Visit ClaytonNewMexico.net for more information.

RIO GRANDE… An American Classic HOPE SPRINGS ETERNAL t was one of those cultureshock moments where urban East meets rugged West. Several of my friends and my sister, all who had come from Brooklyn to Taos to attend my wedding, found themselves hiking a rocky trail down into the nightdarkened depths of the gorge. My friend, Paul, a “regular” at the gorge, led the way, his headlamp cutting a lighted path through the blackness. Our destination was the Stagecoach Hot Springs, a.k.a. Manby Hot Springs. (Wild West side-note: Arthur Manby, a wealthy and eccentric Englishman, moved to Taos in the late nineteenth century and became a notorious figure known for his dubious land acquisitions. On June 30, 1929, Mr. Manby secured his place, albeit several inches shorter, in colorful local lore when he was allegedly found beheaded in his mansion. And that, folks, is how you get hot springs named after you in the Wild West.) When we finally arrive at the springs, the smaller of the two rock pools is occupied by a group of women, drinking champagne and signing each other. It doesn’t take long for us to realize that the women are deaf. As we ease into the warm still water of the larger pool, I feel like we are the beginning of a crude joke that will forever remain untold, echoing in the silence of the gorge. Four Italians, two

Puerto Ricans, a black man and a group of deaf women were soaking one night in the Manby Hot Springs…. Jokes aside, what I vividly remember is the sense of awe and wonder, not to mention minor ripples of night terror that permeated our group, and what my friend Anthony had said: This is so surreal. I feel like I’m on another planet. Or that we’ve gone to the center of the earth. The Rio Grande river to our immediate right, sounding off white noise and hurricane whispers; a glaring white disc of a moon hanging above the peaks of the canyon walls; a star-freckled dome of a night sky—these are the things that I reflect upon, eight years later, when I find out that the Rio Grande del Norte has been designated a national monument. BIRTH OF AN ICON It all began about 30 million years ago, with what you might call a geological mash-up. Or to give it a mythical spin: The Clash of the Titans. That was when the ever-shifting North American and Pacific plates met, headon, and out of the crash and friction was born a massive rift. Tensions resulted in the rise of mountains, volcanic eruptions and lava flows, and what had started as a trickle of a stream became what is now the fifth largest river in North America (nearly 2,000 miles in length). From a bird’s-eye

perspective, the Rio Grande River is a vital liquid artery, beginning at the Colorado divide in the San Juan Mountains, snaking through New Mexico to the border of Texas and Chihuahua, Mexico, before flushing itself into the Gulf of Mexico. The area known as the Rio Grande Del Norte, roughly covering 242,000 acres in Taos and Rio Arriba counties, paradoxically blends timelessness with change, which fits in perfectly with the latest chapter in its living history. On March 25, President Obama, using the Antiquities Act for the fifth time during his presidency, officially sanctioned the Rio Grande del Norte as a national monument. This designation means that the area will become part of America’s National Conservation Lands, presently comprised of 27 million acres of culturally, ecologically and scientifically important landscape, regarded as the crown jewels of the American west. The mission to preserve and safeguard the Rio Grande del Norte began as a grass roots campaign, with a diverse mix of people rallying for a singular cause. Government officials, Taos Pueblo tribal leaders, environmental groups, ranchers, veterans, sportsmen, grazing committees, and local businesses made their voices heard in helping to turn a Southwestern wonder into a national treasure. Stuart

Wilde, who runs Wild Llama Adventures which leads hiking trips with low-impact llamas in the Rio Grande, said, “The real story is how a diverse rural community came together, across the cultural and political spectrum to protect a New Mexico icon, and in the process redefined conservation in the west.” PERSPECTIVES UNLIMITED To encounter the sacred is to be alive at the deepest center of human existence. Sacred places are the truest definitions of the earth; they stand for the earth immediately and forever; they are its flags and shields. If you would know the earth for what it really is, learn it through its sacred places. – N. Scott Momaday The graceful circling of a bald eagle above a craggy canyon wall. The contemplation of an ancient geological formation. An adrenaline-pumping kayak run along a frothy river. Solitude and a steady hand, as you anticipate reeling in a rainbow or cutthroat trout. The Rio Grande del Norte provides both a window into the sacred and access to a world of recreational possibilities. Sixty-six miles of trout fishing heaven; the Taos Box, an eighteen-mile stretch of 900 cliffs; the Razorback, one of the most challenging kayak runs in New Mexico; HighCountry 2013

Ute Mountain, a 10,093-foot dormant volcano located about ten miles west of Costilla. Taos Pueblo War Chief Benito Sandoval said, “I applaud President Obama for protecting the Rio Grande del Norte National Monument because many of the wildlife species that live in that corridor come in and out of this area. Left unprotected, there may be very few animals available that the Native American people of Taos Pueblo depend on for food, clothing and shelter.” Wildlife in the area includes pronghorn antelope, elk, deer, cougars, bighorn sheep and bobcats. Eagles, hawks and falcons make their nesting homes in the basalt walls of the gorge, and the Rio Grande Migratory Route, one of the great migratory routes in the world, is essential for different species of birds. Also, many local Hispanic families use the land to graze their cattle, as they have done for generations. Questa Mayor Esther Garcia said, “We are land grant heirs in New Mexico. Grazing is important. The fishing, the hunting, the herb gathering. Everything that has been traditional for my culture is very important to me.” From the dollars and sense perspective, national monuments mean economic growth for the area in which they are set and the surrounding communities. Stuart Wilde said, “This hawk-media.com

Mature bald eagle overlooks its newly designated home, the Rio Grande Del Norte National Monument

designation will attract new visitors and increase tourism, which not only benefits local outfitters and guides, but also our lodging establishments, restaurants and local merchants, as tourism dollars are spent throughout the region.” It is estimated that the designation will increase the outdoor economy by 15 million dollars annually, and create close to 300 new jobs. Opened last year, the Taos Mesa Brewery, located two miles east of the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge, quickly became a high desert hot spot known for its craft beers, laid-back atmosphere and eclectic variety of concerts and performances. Their building, what could be dubbed Mad Max desert chic, is ready to embrace a new wave of visitors. Gary Feuerman, one of T.M.B.’s owners said, “The Rio Grande Gorge is our backyard, the power and majesty of which is one of the

reasons we live here (T.M.B’s founders), and why we put our flag out here on the mesa. We’ve built our brewery and laid out our grounds to reflect and utilize the materials and contours of this land and area. Sexy Industrial Magic is what we call it, and we’ve used many reclaimed materials and set up systems to convert sun energy and harvest rainwater. We plan to be carbon neutral within three years.” As for the brew-celebratory side of things, Feuerman said, “We sent a couple of six-packs of T.M.B’s Rio Grande del Norte Pale Ale to President Obama. Here’s a toast to the President …hope he enjoyed our beer!” AT DAY’S END It is a golden-light, high- wind spring day. Down at the Manby Hot Springs, Paul and I recline against the moss-spongy interior of the rock pool. Two gentlemen soak opposite us, engaged in

a conversation about their respective jobs. In the space between the two pools, a family is enjoying an early evening picnic. After awhile I climb out of the pool, scrabble along the rocky embankment, and turn on my digital recorder. A riot of gurgling, glupping and hissing, I want to capture the sounds of the river—just because. An hour later, the family and the gentlemen having gone, Paul and I watch a blonde knockout of a sun disappear behind the western canyon walls, speckling its peaks rose and pink. “This never gets old,” Paul says, smiling big. The very definition of timeless, I think but don’t say, happy to let the river do all the talking. John Biscello lives and writes in Taos. His books, Freeze Tag and Broken Land: A Brooklyn Tale, are available through Amazon. 13

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TALES FROM the TAILWATERS

was not a good example of grace under pressure. With six people in my waterlogged raft, which was pinned against a giant rock, it was more like driving a tank without steering. The roar of water was real. It was not a bad dream, where later you realize: It was not real and it was not my fault. No wonder I want to lounge in my hot tub and read Paul Bauer’s lively The Rio Grande: A River Guide to the Geology and Landscapes of Northern New Mexico. It’s no wonder, either, that I flunked guide school a couple years back and am now wallowing in worthlessness. The real wonder is that I’m doing it again—Raft Guide School, that is. This particular morning, though, the water at the Junction Bridge gaging station registers about 260 cfs (cubic feet per second). This means my hot tub is deeper than much of the river. But the Rio Grande is colder and faster and full of obstacles. Maybe if I tossed in some big ugly rocks, a tray of ice cubes, turned on the whirlpool (just like rapids!) and stuck my head under, it could simulate that stressful experience. Because, really, who wants to be responsible for their own life—not to mention anyone else’s. But nature offers deeper truths, so I throw my gear in the truck and head for the river. Actually, I long for my hawk-media.com

own personal Rio. Never mind that they’ve officially made it everyone’s-–the Rio Grande National Monument. After all, you can’t really know who you are if you don’t know where you are. You must learn two elemental things: the lay of the land and the flow of the water. I’m more of a “when in doubt, go higher” girl, just a ski instructor, while many of other highly-paid recreational professionals migrate seasonally to lower elevations. I wish I were like that tough chick who rowed us down the Colorado River through the Grand Canyon, navigating Class V Lava Falls wearing a perfectly pressed white shirt. Now that’s grace under pressure. Everyone, hard-core or not, has a personal relationship with the river. The river is a stern and beloved teacher whose main cliché is “Go with the Flow.” But just because I can define fluviomorphology doesn’t mean I can get you where you want to go. Truthfully, I’ve given more than lip service to the idea that water—rivers—are the lifeblood of our land, our lives. Everything shows up in water, from our deepest cultural beliefs to used Kleenex to parts per million of toxins in the same way a blood test ultimately reflects our physical and ultimately even our mental health. I know

this from books and from life and from organizations like Amigos Bravos, which inspired me to write a doctoral dissertation on the Red River watershed, a tributary of the Rio Grande. Still, you might not want to be in my boat. Amigos Bravos, now celebrating its 25th year, is a river protection group headed by executive director Brian Shields. He first spent l5 years as a raft guide. The new designation, The Rio Grande National Monument Area, is a fresh cognitive layer on the same old river. El Rio Grande has all-too-often made the list of the U. S. most endangered rivers, sometimes running out of water on its 2000mile journey to the Gulf of Mexico. Its enormous, crazy, and exceedingly beautiful rift defines it—the bones of the land. It’s nobody’s fault—the land just split apart. The more we learn (and the more fun we have), the more we protect the places we love, and inspire others to do likewise. Getting The Rio Grande del Norte Monument signed was akin to getting everyone paddling together and not getting hung up on obstacles. Success took organization, strategy, cooperation—and gumption. The story is a bit more

complex than having beers at five and talking up the coolness factor on “Surf or Die” boulder. Don’t get me wrong, serious fun is seriously good. And when they say “This Bud’s for you” I hope they mean me. But still, I’ll take the deeper story. By 10 am I am standing on Highway 68 with five young wannabe guides overlooking the river. We are drawing maps of the boulders in the Racecourse section below, including “Baby Huey,” a 360-ton boulder which crashed its way across the highway and into the river in 1991. Everyone laments the lack of water. Ben, already a guide, is nuts about the river. He even took us stand up paddle boarding on his day off. That’s my latest perspective on the river—from an altitude of 5’8’’ above river level. In an old T-shirt and serious looking glasses, Ben is focused instead on scraping the side of a giant boulder. He returns with a handful of tiny, deep red garnets. Ben says earnestly like the overgrown kid he is, “It’s such an exciting river! I really like the low water! I like the rocks! I think they’re beautiful! I like how it changes! It wouldn’t be fun otherwise!” (He really talks like this!) He means it wouldn’t be a river? Continued on page 28 15

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Chama!New Mexico

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RED BULL BMX RIDERS TO LIGHT UP ANGEL FIRE N

BC will be filming top BMX riders in Angel Fire August 9 for the Red Bull Dreamline Series. A star-studded roster will tackle a big, bold 1,500-foot course with some of the most challenging jumps in BMX history. The Red Bull Dreamline project was conceived by BMX pro Anthony Napolitan as a way to showcase the best of what dirt riding can be. Given six weeks and complete freedom to develop and groom the course, builder Adam Aloise helped take contest riding to a new level. While some elements will be under wraps, they are promising a course that includes 12 hits with one of the largest shark fin features ever seen, and a jump that will send riders at least 35 feet in the air. Top names in the sport have already RSVP’d including Luke Parslow, Brian Foster, Dennis Enarson and Mike “Hucker” Clark. The format of the contest has been developed to benefit the riders. On August 9, 32 riders will compete in two heats of 16. The 16 athletes in the non-riding heat will judge their peers. The top four from each heat will be moving on to Saturday’s final and will be judged by a randomly drawn group of non-qualifying ridhawk-media.com

PHOTO COURTESY RED BULL MEDIA HOUSE

ers from Friday. There will be a two hour jam session for each heat. While there is prize money up for grabs, the contest shines a light on what BMXers enjoy most about riding – the freedom of pushing the limits with their friends, on a course that has no rules or constraints. As Anthony Napolitan describes it, “Red Bull Dreamline is an event

that BMX riders can show up to, ride, have a great time, progress, and feel completely comfortable without the pressures of a normal contest setting. This event was designed for the riders, by the riders and that’s why it going to be such a great success.” The event will get a national spotlight as part of the Red Bull Signature Series, which will air on NBC on Oc-

tober 19, 2013, at 5 pm EST, brought to you in partnership with Casio G’zOne Commando, Dodge Dart, and GoPro . The show airs as part of the Red Bull Signature Series, the most progressive action sports property in the world, featuring some of Red Bull’s top events including the Vans US Open of Surfing, Joyride and Rampage. For more, visit RedBullSignatureSeries.com. 17

RIO HONDO CONDOMINIUMS Two, three and four-bedroom condos. Fully equipped kitchens, living rooms with fireplaces, and dining room areas with views out to the back deck or balcony, most of which overlook the Hondo River against a beautiful Rocky Mountain backdrop. Best outdoor hot tub on the mountain and a dry sauna to soak and steam under the stars. DISH Satellite TV, free wireless internet, and the best staff on the mountain!

6 Firehouse Rd., Taos Ski Valley RioHondoCondos.com 800.461.8263 575.776.2646

KACHINA LODGE and MEETINGS CENTER in Taos

LIFTS WEST CONDOMINUM AND RESORT HOTEL Combines old world charm with modern conveniences; luxury within a warm, homey atmosphere; bustling activity – from Main Street to our own atrium lobby

Four blocks from the historic Taos Plaza, shops, galleries

and shopping mall – with

and museums. Full-service hotel.

the quiet privacy of our

Includes full hot breakfast, leisure

well-designed rooms. In

bar/lounge with pool tables, video games, and coffee shop. Southwestern dining. Outdoor seasonally heated pool, hot tub, and free high speed internet. Nightly Indian dances MayOctober. Near Taos Casino and Taos Pueblo. Affordable prices, friendly service staff.

800.522.4462 575.758.2275 www.KachinaLodge.com 413 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, NM

the heart of Red River, a preferred location for summer and winter and group meetings. Dramatic atrium with giant stone fireplace, perfect for concerts, dances, or lectures. 75 deluxe accommodations include satellite TV, free wifi, nonsmoking rooms. Conference rooms, souvenir shops and café on-site.

201 W. Main St., Red River, NM www.LiftsWest.com 800.221.1859

EL PUEBLO LODGE Come stay at the edge of town, at the edge of everything! Southwest charm with early Taos architecture. Complimentary wifi and HBO. Heated, seasonal pool, year-round hot tub. Continental breakfast each morning, fresh baked cookies each afternoon. Pet-friendly. Three blocks from historic Taos Plaza; 18 miles from Taos Ski Valley. Taos Pueblo and Taos Mountain Casino two miles north. Visit our website for specials and packages.

800.433.9612 575.758.8700 ElPuebloLodge.com 412 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, NM

NEW MEXICO LODGES 18

575.754.2778

UTE BLUFF LODGE CABINS AND RV PARK Located on the east side of the town of South Fork, we offer 21 comfortable lodge rooms, 7 cozy log cabins, and 30 RV sites.

ALPINE LODGES

We are adjacent to the Rio Grande River and national forest lands, 20 miles from Wolf Creek Ski Area. Large parking lot, meeting room, laundry, cable TV, free wifi, hot tubs, fish cleaning station, game hanging pole, and a full size tipi. Online reservations. Make us your home base for the many activities available in the surrounding area. We look forward to seeing you soon!

27680 US Hwy 160, South Fork, CO www.UteBluffLodge.com 800.473.0595 719.873.5595

HIGH COUNTRY LODGE AND CABINS Five minutes from downtown Pagosa Springs in the beautiful San Juan Mountains. Full-

LAZY BEAR CABINS

service hotel offers lodging from lodge rooms to com-

Year-round lodging destination

fortable cabins for privacy

in South Fork, Colorado, where the San Luis Valley and Rocky

and relaxation for families or couples. Complimentary hot

Mountains meet. Just minutes

breakfast, three hot tubs and sauna, wifi, cable with HBO,

away from Wolf Creek Ski

fireplaces in cabins. Guest laundry, playground area, large

Area, the Silver Thread Scenic

lawn, private fishing pond, horse corrals, fire pits and BBQ

Byway, Rio Grande Golf Club

grills. Pet-friendly.

and “Gold Medal Waters.” Surrounded by 2 million acres

3821 Hwy 160 East, Pagosa Springs, CO www.HighCountryLodge.com 800.862.3707 970.264.4181

of national forest with countless opportunities to enjoy all four seasons. You can hike, fish, bike, and explore miles of Forest Service roads, hunt and view fall colors, snowmobile and ski on groomed trails. Clean, spacious two-bedroom cabins with cable TV, wireless Internet, fully-equipped

BEST WESTERN RIO GRANDE

kitchens, and views of ever-changing skies and mountains.

Two blocks from Durango

29257 W. Hwy 160, South Fork, CO www.LazyBearCabins.com 877.873.1443 719.873.1443

& Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad train station. Close to fine dining, great shopping

FIRESIDE INN CABINS

and exciting night life. 102 spacious rooms, prime loca-

Modern, cozy one and two

tion, friendly staff, special amenities. Summer activities

bedroom fully-equipped cabins

include horseback riding, mountain biking, river rafting,

with room to roam on ten acres

and kayaking, or tour Mesa Verde National Park or the San

bordered by the San Juan River.

Juan Skyway. Complimentary breakfast and cocktail hour,

Close to Hot Springs, Wolf Creek,

heated indoor pool and jacuzzi, wifi, cable TV with free

and the National Forest. Trout,

HBO, fitness center, free guest laundry, and more.

lake and pond fishing nearby. Private river access and fishing (catch and release) on our property. Covered porch with off porch gravel BBQ grill area. Open year-round.

400 E. 2nd Ave., Durango, Colorado www.BWRioGrandeInn.com 800.245.4466 970.385.4980

1600 E. Hwy 160, Pagosa Springs, CO www.FiresideCabins.com 888.264.9204 970.264.9204

COLORADO LODGES 19

THE SOLITARY ANGLER “Quality Year-Round Fly Fishing Without the Crowds”! Guided fly fishing trips to wild river canyons, mountain lakes and streams. Best guides, best private water around. Hacienda and cabins on Cimarron River. Van is the author of Flyfishers Guide to New Mexico.

www.TheSolitaryAngler.com 204B North Pueblo Rd., Taos, NM 866.502.1700

ESKE’S PARADISE BALLOONS The only balloon company in Taos with a perfect safety record! Hot air balloon rides into and over the Rio Grande Gorge since 1991. Flights at dawn with a ride into the desert outside Taos, inflation of the huge lighter-than-air craft, boarding the basket and floating upward with an experienced, licensed pilot. Call for reservations and rates.

www.TaosBallooning.com ken.eske3@gmail.com 505.751.6098

TAOS FLY SHOP Taylor and Nick Streit’s Taos Fly Shop has been family-owned since 1980. They have Northern NM’s largest selection of fly fishing equipment. Their professional guides welcome beginning or expert fly fishers on private waters in southern Colorado and New Mexico. Taylor has written three acclaimed fly fishing books and is a Legendary Guide in the Freshwater Fishing Hall of Fame.

www.TaosFlyShop.com info@taosflyshop.com 575.751.1312 20

HighCountry 2013

RIO GRANDE AREA TOURS LOS RIOS RIVER RUNNERS Whitewater Rafting in Taos, Santa Fe, and Albuquerque for 40 Years. New Mexico’s oldest, most experienced rafting company! Los Rios has more access to NM rivers than any other rafting company, and the besttrained, most fun rafting guides. Whiteknuckle whitewater trips on the Rio Grande • Star-filled river camping in the majestic Rio Chama canyon • Serene feast and float trips with Native Pueblo Indian guides.

www.LosRiosRiverRunners.com 800-544-1181 info@losriosriverrunners.com 575-776-8854

PERSONALIZED PHOTO TOURS with GERAINT SMITH Join me in exploring the places that have been the inspiration for my photography for over 30 years. We’ll wander the back roads in the unique landscape of northern New Mexico and southern Colorado, and experience the places, architecture and culture of this enchanting and mystical corner of the world. Call to customize a photo tour, class or workshop of your own.

www.GeraintSmith.com/phototours.html phototours@geraintsmith.com 505.501.4880

BIG RIVER RAFTING The ultimate NM Whitewater Rafting Adventure! Big River Rafts has been guiding NM rafting trips and tours since 1983. Your adventure begins just 20 minutes south of Taos, NM. We offer rafting trips to suit every need, every skill level. Relaxing dinner floats or exciting rapid rides down the Rio Grande River, delicious picnics. Mild to wild rafting trips. Operating March - November. Large and small groups welcome.

www.BigRiverRafts.com bigriverbilly@yahoocom 1-800-RIVER-GO 575-758-9711 hawk-media.com

FOUR RIVERS, FOUR GUIDES T

he Rio Grande, Red River, Culebra and Cimarron are northern New Mexico’s four awesome trout rivers and streams folks fish, all known throughout the fly fishing community. Four local guides with over a century of experience – while competitors, they respect each other, help each other out, and even occasionally fish together. Their names are synonymous with specific rivers –Taylor Streit with the Rio Grande, Van Beacham with the Culebra, Ed Adams with the Lower Red River, and Doc Thompson with the Cimarron. Each of these rivers is as unique and varied as the story behind each guide.

TAYLOR STREIT ON THE RIO GRANDE Taylor Streit was immediately drawn to the untouched Rio Grande because “there is no hand of man in the Gorge,” as Taylor puts it. He started guiding around Taos in 1980 when he opened Taos’ first real fly shop, The Taos Fly Shop. He kept the shop going for seven years but his love for fishing and guiding was greater than being confined indoors. Nine years ago a new Taos Fly Shop resurfaced when Taylor’s son, Nick, carried on the family torch. Nick and his wife Christy operate the highly knowledgeable, friendly shop. 22

The Rio Grande is New Mexico’s longest and wildest trout river. As the Rio crosses from Colorado into New Mexico it flows into the upper end of the Rio Grande Gorge, which continues 90 miles to Velarde, NM. Most of these 90 miles of the Rio are home to a variety of fish with browns, rainbows, cut-bows and pike being the main focus. The better trout waters require some real effort to get to. In the Rio Grande Wild and Scenic Recreation Area there are maintained trails and mountain goat trails that lead adventurous anglers to big pocket water, fast chutes, riffles and deep runs. For the less adventurous there are a couple areas with easier road access. The easiest access is in the Lower Box section south of Taos. Near Pilar, there are two paved roads that parallel the Rio: Highway 68 from Pilar downstream to Velarde, and Highway 570 from Pilar upstream for 5 miles; both have public pullouts. The John Dunn Bridge just west of Arroyo Hondo allows for dirt road access to the gorge but some walking is needed to get away from the hot springs crowds. According to Taylor the Rio “has a better trout population over the last few years. The Rio can be as finicky as an old feline or as crotchety as a retired fly fishing guide but

when it’s on, you better be there. Timing and technique are everything.” The more consistent time frame to fish the Gorge is in the fall. In September when the summer temps drop but before winter rolls. Try hopper-dropper techniques and nymphing as well as streamers. One of the more effective patterns on the Rio is Taylor Streit’s Poundmeister, a heavily weighted cranefly larva. The spring time can provide some of the most exciting fishing during the Caddis hatch in April. It is a rare opportunity to fish this great hatch since it coincides with spring runoff most of the time. Taylor is honored as a Legendary Guide in the Freshwater Fishing Hall of Fame. With 33 years of hard guiding behind him, Streit classifies himself as semiretired. He spends much of his time running the guide service which includes a fly fishing school and a fly fishing guide school. When he isn’t on the water he is sharing fishing stories or writing about fly fishing. He currently has three books in print: Instinctive Fly Fishing, No Nonsense Guide to Fly Fishing New Mexico and Man vs. Fish: The Fly Fisherman’s Eternal Struggle. For more, visit TaosFlyShop.com or call 575-751-1312.

VAN BEACHAM ON THE CULEBRA New Mexico is home to Van Beacham, a fourth generation New Mexico angler. He started guiding in Red River in 1983 and moved to Taos in 1985 when he partnered with his long time and current booking agent Jack Woolley, owner of Tailwater Gallery and Fly Shop in Taos. By the late 1980s Van had the foresight to start the Solitary Angling Club. The club is a great way for fly fishers to escape some of the more popular waters. The highlight of the Solitary Angling Club is access to nine private miles of the Culebra River, located in San Luis, CO. The Culebra flows through the open meadows of the San Luis Valley towered by some of Colorado’s 14,000 foot mountains. The Culebra is a smaller tailwater primarily fed by releases out of Sanchez Reservoir. A few miles below the reservoir are several tributaries and springs that supplement the flow into the Culebra. The Culebra is best known for large rainbow and brown trout, large for any trout river especially one averaging 20 feet wide. Much of the Culebra is a mix of bend pools and undercut banks that are fed by riffles. Some sections are more spring creek-like with slow bends, aquatic vegetation and HighCountry 2013

technical micro-currents. The deeper bend pools, undercut banks and spring creek-like attributes are beneficial water characteristics for trout. A juicy aquatic insect population including cranefly larvae makes up the diet of the fat trout the Culebra is known for. “Being a private fishery allows me to do my own stream improvement projects specifically targeted to promoting healthier trout.” Beacham also manages the Culebra as catch-n-release, “…a positive change over the last 25+ years that quality guides and most private fisheries practice.” The Culebra is fishable yearround with the best time frame spring through fall. In the winter months trout can wake up for a few active hours in the afternoon. The most consistent fishing techniques on the Culebra focus around high stick nymphing with a double nymph set-up. A larger nymph is often used for physical weight and as an attractor with a smaller nymph about 10-15 inches below the attractor nymph. You can expect the fish to eat the smaller nymph but whichever one gets eaten, hang on. If your timing is just right you can sight cast to risers for exciting dry fly fishing. In the spring and fall the Baetis mayfly hatch often has fish holding in a hawk-media.com

specific micro-current and lazily sipping emergers or taking adults off the surface. This is when longer and lighter tippets are mandatory. The Culebra is an hour plus drive straight north from Taos, making it a very doable day trip for those seeking

new challenges to keep it exciting.” Van’s love for fly fishing and New Mexico is evident when he authored the book Flyfisher’s Guide To New Mexico. For more, visit www.The SolitaryAngler.com or call 575-758-5653.

started Santa Fe Troutfitters. He quickly knew guiding was his thing, a chance to be on trout rivers 150 days a year. However, living in Questa, NM, while guiding in the Santa Fe area wasn’t feasible; it kept him away from home and family. Adams eventually did what he

ED ADAMS ON THE LOWER RED

had to do: start up Ed Adams Fly Fishing. Ed’s children are grown which leaves him plenty of time for his old friend, the Lower Red River. The Lower Red is the 4.5 miles of the river from the Red River Hatchery downstream to the confluence with the Rio Grande. This section of the Red flows through a narrow canyon with limited access, rough bank lines, and multiple

Left to right: Taylor, Ed, Van and Doc.

uncrowded waters. To fish the Culebra a person must hire a guide or be a member of the Solitary Angling Club. After 30 years some things don’t change. “When I was young I couldn’t hold down a job, I was always drawn to trout streams and I still am. I wouldn’t know what else to do. And I don’t want to do anything else. Like fly fishing, guiding offers

You wouldn’t know by looking at Ed Adams that he turned down a laborious life working in a paint factory or gave up his keys to a New York City taxi cab to escape to the mountains of northern New Mexico. In the mid-1980s Ed started fishing with his brother-in-law and before long the dynamic duo

springs. These springs are instrumental in making the Lower Red fishable year-round by adding warmer water in the winter months and cooler water in the warmer seasons. The Lower Red fishes best from mid-February to midApril and September through December. There are three main access points for getting on the water. The easiest is at the Red River Hatchery just south of Questa, at the deadend of the short NM Hwy 515. There is a parking lot providing easy access to the river. Easy to wade riffles and pocket water stretch a few hundred yards downstream and upstream of the parking lot. The hatchery stretch is good for those with only a few hours to fish. Easy access also means more fishing pressure. The other main access areas are two trails in the Rio Grande Wild and Scenic Recreational Area west of Questa. These two maintained trails take 30 minutes to an hour and a half to hike in and out. The main draw to the hike-in sections are the prime pocket water and lack of crowds. Ed warns anglers, “These trails take you to the better fishing waters but are definitely physical in nature so be sure to be in good shape and have your health insurance paid up.” Lots of brown trout and rainbows inhabit the pockets, edges and deep runs of the Lower Red. Cutt-bows from the Rio Grande move up into the Lower Red in February and March, adding the extra element of seeing some larger trout. In the last few years the Lower Red has rebounded from 24

a shaky history. In the 1970s and 1980s pollution from the molybdenum mine near Questa negatively impacted the trout population in the Lower Red. Action by Concerned Citizens of Questa, fishing clubs and other organizations helped bring attention to some of the issues. Thankful, Adams explains, “The river has been making a dramatic comeback in recent years. We are starting to encounter a few fish in the 14- to 18-inch range, at least in the less pressured sections. It’s starting to fish like it did in the 1970s.” After 27 years of guiding, Ed is still quite at home on the Lower Red. “I taught my daughter and her brothers how to fish on the Lower Red. We have many family memories of the Red. It is like an old friend, it’s my baby.” The daughter Ed taught to fish is Rita Adams. Rita and her fiancé Johnny co-manage two saltwater fly fishing lodges in the Yucatan. Visit www.EdAdamsFlyFishing. com or call 575-586-1512.

DOC THOMPSON ON THE CIMARRON RIVER Doc Thompson is the youngster of these veteran guides. In the early 1990s Doc found himself torn between putting his college degree to work as an athletic trainer or moving to the mountains of northern New Mexico to follow his passion. Like the other guides, he choose his passion for the trout streams, an understandable decision after he spent many summers working and fishing at the Philmont Scout Ranch. Doc

started his guide service in 1995. “I thought I could make a living guiding and educating people on fly fishing. It is a great life! One that fits my style even though there’s not much of a retirement plan.” Doc is an Orvis Endorsed Fly Guide and owner of Doc Thompson’s High Country Anglers. He lives a couple hundred yards from the Cimarron River, a smaller mountain tailwater that flows out of Eagle Nest Lake. This mountain gem is much more like a freestone or free flowing trout stream than a tailwater. The Cimarron is one of the healthiest brown trout fisheries in all of the Southwest. There are approximately nine miles of public access to the Cimarron flowing through the Cimarron Canyon State Park and Colin Neblitt Wildlife Area. The river parallels and crisscrosses US Highway 64 where there are a number of pull-offs (state park pass required). “Don’t let the highway give you the impression there aren’t trout in this stream. It has lots of beautiful vibrant wild browns in the 10- to 14-inch range and some rainbows.” It is true, once you get into the river you are in your own world blocked out by the vegetation lining the stream. The normal fishing season on the Cimarron runs from mid-April well into October. The early and late fishing season depends on flows out of Eagle Nest Lake. In the last few years there have been earlier springtime flows and later flows in the fall. This extends the fish season and more importantly offers the trout a healthier

and longer growing season. The change in flow patterns is a key reason the Cimarron is seeing bigger fish on average over the last few years. The rich water is laden with stoneflies, caddisflies, mayflies, craneflies, and midges plus a range of terrestrials. This diversity in aquatic insect life makes the Cimarron one of the most consistent fisheries in the state. When there are good insect hatches on the Cimarron River, there is normally good dry fly fishing. If you don’t see much on the dry fly, switch to a dry-dropper technique. This combines a dry fly with a second fly coming off of the dry fly. The second fly is referred to as the dropper and is a smaller bead head nymph, mayfly emerger or caddis pupa. In addition to guiding on the public water, Doc has access to three private miles of the Cimarron River for guide and instructional trips. This private water is good water for beginners while more experienced anglers greatly appreciate the multiple water characteristics, less fishing pressure and larger trout the private water offers. Doc’s passion for trout and fly fishing shines on his guide trips. He typically mixes both guiding and education while on the water whether you are a beginner or an experienced angler looking for the latest fishing information. In recent years Thompson has been honored as the Orvis Endorsed Guide of the Year and Orvis Fly Tyer of the Year. Visit www. FlyFishNewMexico.com or call 575-376-9220.

— Doc Thompson HighCountry 2013

FISHING

in style

VERMEJO PARK RANCH

CIMARRONCITA HISTORIC RANCH

RIVERBEND RESORT

Located 40 miles west of Raton, NM, Ted Turner’s

At the heart of the Cimarron Canyon, located 40 miles east of Taos Hwy. 64, Cimarroncita offers some of the finest private water fly fishing in the Southwest. Called the Dream Water, the 1.8 mile stretch of river is wild with brown trout offering exhilarating days for novices and pros. The

Enjoy your next Colorado vacation in a beautiful and relaxing setting on the banks of the South Fork of the Rio Grande. Riverbend Resort features river front cabins, RV park and tent camping near South Fork, CO. Rustic but fully modernized, the cabins are open year-round with fireplaces, full kitchens, covered deck and grill. Over a mile of private river frontage stocked with trophy rainbow trout, with Colorado mountains as backdrop. Also fish other local streams and lakes, hike, bike, hunt, raft. Ghost

Vermejo Park Ranch is the ideal blend of modern-day comforts and unspoiled natural beauty. With 100 years of ranch-resort operation, VPR is the fishing and nature tourism destination. With 21 lakes and 30 miles of stream, Vermejo anglers will catch multiple species: rainbow, brook, brown and the Rocky Mountain native, Rio Grande Cutthroat trout. Promoting catch and release, our guide staff can accommodate anglers of all skill levels. Late summer is best – think hikes in high mountain meadows, ghost town tours, horseback riding. For family or business, couples or friends, and all age groups.

vermejoparkranch.com 575.445.3097

river offers fast riffles, deep runs, bend pools, undercut banks, slow channels and pockets. The catch and release waters require barbless flies. Cimarroncita provides heritage lodging, fine dining, night-sky campfires, hiking, birding, art and tours. Ideal for private gatherings and celebrations. As a guest notes, “…loved the fly fishing, can’t wait to come back.”

towns, mining towns, and fine dining nearby. The ideal location to sample all the attractions of southern Colorado. Come in autumn for spectacular color.

cimarroncita.com 866.376.2482

riverbend-resort.com 800.621.6512 25

HighCountry 2013

HISTORIC HOTELS HOTEL LA FONDA de TAOS The oldest hotel in Taos is new again. In the heart of the historic district on Taos Plaza, La Fonda offers 21st Century amenities while preserving its rich Southwestern roots and ambience. Home to Mosaic Fine Dining, Noula’s Starbucks Coffee Shop, and the D.H. Lawrence “Forbidden Art Collection.” 19 rooms, 5 suites, and our Plaza Penthouse. Friendly, personal service. Walking distance to galleries, museums, shopping, entertainment, fine dining. WWW.LAFONDATAOS.COM

108 SOUTH PLAZA, TAOS, NM 800.833.2211 505.758.0000

ST. JAMES HOTEL Where western history – and the paranormal – come alive. The historic St. James Hotel, built in 1872, has hosted a smorgasbord of famous outlaws and Wild West legends including Clay Allison, William F. Cody and Wyatt Earp. Today, it continues its tradition with fine dining and comfortable rooms and a restored western restaurant and bar. Ghosts, each with their own obsessions and rituals, are said to still haunt the place. WWW.EXSTJAMES.COM

888.376.2664 575.376.2664

HISTORIC STRATER HOTEL A stay at the historic Strater Hotel in Durango, Colorado, is like stepping back in time with its Victorian opulence. Easily explore Cliff Dwellings at Mesa Verde or ride the famous Durango train, all just minutes away. Saunter in to the Diamond Belle Saloon, The Office Spiritorium, Mahogany Grille, or the Henry Strater Theatre featuring Dirty Deeds at the Depot this summer. 800.247.4431

699 MAIN AVE., DURANGO, CO 970.247.4431 WWW.STRATER.COM

THE HISTORIC TAOS INN Experience Southwestern charm and history at The Historic Taos Inn in the heart of Taos. Acclaimed by National Geographic Traveler as “One of America’s Great Inns,” and listed on the National and NM Registers of Historic Places. 44 rooms and suites, most with Pueblo-style fireplaces. Award-winning Doc Martin’s Restaurant and Adobe Bar on premises. Happy hour 4-6 Mon-Fri; free live music nightly. TAOSINN.COM PHOTO COURTESY WWW.HOTELSTFRANCIS.COM / JEFF CAVEN

575.758.2233 27

Continued from page 15

Yes, and its changeability is only part of its multifaceted and completely diverse charm. The Racecourse includes four and a half miles of mixed public and private land (shhhhh, quiet zones!). Young, millions of year-old rock butts heads with almost two billion year old ones—see that gorgeous wall of pink quartzite? The baker’s dozen of rapids range from A-S— Albert’s, named after Einstein, to Souse Hole, named after people who get soused, especially at high water, when boats routinely flip. The swim I took there last time was not my fault. This is where raft guides earn their bread and butter (plus tips). It may be the fun zone, but it’s nature too, and guides interpret the geology,

biology, and other ologies, often filling in the blanks with pure lies. Who really burned down the hippie bridge? Did the nearby railbed go clear to Colorado? Is there gold in them hills? The Racecourse is a hugely popular rafting zone, where visitors often get their first exposure to river life—like the gaggle of middle schoolers at Quartzite today. While their guide reads safety instructions as if they were last rites the kids giggle and plan a splash attack. They can’t believe their good fortune—out of school and on the river? The really Big Adrenaline is upstream on The Taos Box—when there’s water. It has suckered many of us (me included) to actually move here. Adrenaline junkies of all stripes make for good stories:

one friend famously flew his plane under the Gorge Bridge. Another, Brian Shields, had a guide contract to remove, bit by bit, a different crashed plane from there, which took awhile in his leaky 10’ raft. My friend Peggy, part of the “Taos Ski Valley-raft guide vortex” guided The Taos Box in big water in 2005. “I was so scared I couldn’t speak,” she says. “The beaches were all washed out so we couldn’t stop. One client complained because it was over at least two hours early. I thought, ‘Buddy, you just don’t know what we just did.’” Now she is finishing a degree in environmental science. “There are other aspects to the river besides tall tales and wild adventures,” Peggy says. Today, however, we float the more peaceful six-mile

section called Orilla Verde. We put in at the Taos Junction Bridge, where I feel at home. Nearby is the confluence of the Rio Pueblo, a major tributary, which starts high above Taos Pueblo in sacred Blue Lake. My University of New Mexico students are like the middle schoolers, happy when I take them hiking down the old landslide county road along Rio Pueblo Canyon to this bridge. It has a lively past. It was a major intersection long before the Rio Grande Bridge opened in 1965. The six-mile section is usually tranquil, though I once paddled a two-person canoe there, into huge headwinds. The river offered me some clarity about that relationship. Not a bad way to test the waters. My students love the

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• STORYLINE VIDEOS – HOT NEW WEB TREND Hawk Media won “BEST PROMOTIONAL VIDEO” at 2013 Tourism Association of NM TIARA AWARDS HighCountry 2013

nearby petroglyphs. And I’ve spotted otters! After a sixty-year absence, they were reintroduced here because this section is “unimpaired” (Clean Water Act language— it is also designated “Wild and Scenic.”) The river is calming, like a mother soothing her baby’s brow. I listen for the chirr of red winged blackbirds, or frogs, or a trout jumping. Artists love this place. I have a painting of this riverscape. I stare at it when life gets me down. Today, at the absurdly idyllic village of Pilar, the scent of apple blossoms hangs in the air, and baby ducks follow mama. There are layers of history, not all of them idyllic. In 1854 the Jicarilla Apaches beat the U.S. Army, with great bloodshed. Almost a century and a half later, “Uncle Steve,” Far Flung Raft Company owner and C.E.O, moved his corporate headquarters along the river because he liked the neighborhood and the neighbors—badgers, mountain lions, cougars, porcupines, etc. Nowadays, he’s busy “figuring out where they keep the water.” He decided that fighting over water was non-productive (despite the old adage that drinking’s for whiskey and water’s for fighting). He now says, “What we need is more creative ways of navigating these arcane water rights systems for the benefit of the river.” The Racecourse is downstream from Pilar; after that, it’s the Bosque. The river flattens, and we float until “Miller Beach”—the New hawk-media.com

Wave company compound at Embudo. Beat but cheerful, we drag the gear up to the barn-turned-boathouse. The place resembles M*A*S*H* headquarters, with several old school buses and guide campers strewn about, also chickens and Kathy Miller’s fledgling orchard. When she first met her husband Steve, he took her kayaking. She jokes that he created a monster. For 28 years, they dropped off raft clients and headed back home to Albuquerque. She felt “heartbroken…. My quest was to see if I could end up at the river.” The easygoing Kathy was amazed at her “own will and stubbornness.” So was Steve. But she got her way, and now he happily fishes each day after five. Kathy says: “The thing I couldn’t get enough of was the sight of water dancing, sparkling in front of me.”  The river is seductive, like a homing instinct for many of us. Whether anyone gets me as their guide begins not to matter. It’s the shining surface of green water, the gorgeous sculpted boulders, the way the river bends the willow, the scent of river water. I too am learning to read the water, but I will never navigate it perfectly. Maybe I don’t have to. The river offers perspective and teaches, in high water and in low, to accept nature’s lessons with a greater grace. We can all learn to do this. Even me.

SUDS STOPS TAOS MESA BREWING … Featured Brewery Newest kid on the brew block, Taos Mesa Brewing is a microbrewery, restaurant and indoor/ outdoor “brewclub” on the spectacular Taos Mesa. We feature handcrafted beer on draught, wine, delicious homemade food, live music and the best mountain view sunsets in Taos. Lunch and Dinner, Monday-Sunday 12 pm - Close; Happy Hour 3-6 pm weekdays. Sunday Mimosa Lunch with Brunch Specials, 11-4 pm. Sunday Dinner, 4 pm – close. Visit TaosMesaBrewing.com for live music schedule and featured brews. Like us on Facebook. 575.758.1900

ESKE’S BREW PUB TAOS ALE HOUSE COMANCHE CREEK BLUE HERON BREWING ABBEY BEVERAGE PAGOSA BREWING CO. STEAMWORKS SKA BREWING MOUNTAIN MADNESS

575-758-1517 575-758-5522 575-377-2337 575-325-6605 505-990-8581 970-731-2739 970-799-3481 970-247-5792 970-247-5236

Michele Potter holds a PhD in American Studies. She teaches classes in Environment and Culture at UNM/Taos. 29

Feelin’ Good

COFFEEHOUSE & CAFÉ South Fork’s Only Coffeehouse Breakfast & Lunch 6 am-2 pm Full Espresso Bar • Great Food Warm, Friendly Service Cozy Atmosphere • Open 7 Days

Parade Homes Angel Fire

e 719-873-5150

Located at the Y of 149 & 160, South Fork

Golf at one of the finest courses in America! Fine dining, weddings, private parties. South Fork, CO Open to the public.

Reservations.

ANGEL FIRE TAOS LAS VEGAS RATON

719.873.1995

AuguST 16 - SepTeMBeR 1

RioGrandClubAndResort.com

ChAMBeR MuSIC FeSTIvAl Ida Kavafian, Artistic Director Chick Corea, Composer-in-Residence

TICKeTS & INFO (575) 377-3233 Toll Free (888) 377-3300 musicfromangelfire.org

This project funded in part by public funds from Angel Fire, Las Vegas, San Miguel County and Raton Lodgers’ Tax, Town of Taos, New Mexico Arts, a division of the Dept. of Cultural Affairs and the National Endowment for the Arts

August 31 - September 1, 2013 Sangre de Cristo Homebuilders Association www.sdchba.com

ALL THINGS

TWISTED Jewelry, beads & classes

505.919.8797 Wed-Sat (10-6) Angel Fire

HighCountry 2013

On The Green…

MOUNTAINS & MESAS ANGEL FIRE RESORT GOLF & COUNTRY CLUB – Angel Fire, NM Take your game to a higher level – like 8,700 feet – at Angel Fire Resort Golf Course and Country Club. Situated within the Sangre de Cristo mountains of northern New Mexico, our 18-hole championship course offers challenging golf and spectacular views at every turn. With a $17 million, state-of-the-art Country Club clubhouse, Angel Fire Resort boasts over 6,600 yards of unforgettable high-altitude golf. Affordable spring & summer golf and lodging packages are available. Fees: $59-$89, including cart. Golf & Lodging Package Information: 800.633.7463 / 575.377.3055 www.AngelFireResort.com

MARTY SANCHEZ LINKS DE SANTA FE – Santa Fe, NM A gripping experience with breathtaking and challenging year-round golf. At 7000 feet with 360 degrees of unsurpassed mountain views you’ll know why Marty Sanchez Links is... Santa Fe’s Golf Course of Choice. Links de Santa Fe is highly acclaimed as one of the best municipal courses in the Southwest offering great rates, uncompromised golf services and amenities, and an awardwinning professional staff. The moment you approach the first tee, you’ll marvel at the stunning panorama which remains constant through the 18 championship holes and the 9-hole executive course. Open daily, Marty Sanchez Links offers a driving range, the Back 9 Grill, rentals and a Pro Shop. Specials & events: 505.955.4400 or 888.735.4657 www.LinksdeSantaFe.com.

PENDARIES – Rociada, NM Located 23 miles NW of Las Vegas, this remarkable club is open mid-April- mid-Oct., with tee times taken up to 12 months in advance. In the mountains overlooking the Rociada Valley, Pendaries is a demanding 18-hole design that will test every golfer’s skill level. The golf course, lodge & restaurant make a perfect getaway for golfing couples, business seminars or retreats. Tall pines & cool evenings create an atmosphere of relaxation & comfort. Golf & housing packages available; houses or lodge rooms for rent. Well worth the trip for a perfect weekend escape. Fees: Mon-Thurs $35, Fri-Sun $45, Carts: $15 per person. Twilight specials after 2 pm: $25 - Mon-Thurs; Fri-SatSun, after 2 pm, $45 incl. cart. 800.733.5267. Golf shop 505.425.9890 www.Pendaries.net

TAOS COUNTRY CLUB – Taos, NM Play one of the top rated golf courses in New Mexico in a spectacular setting between the Rocky Mountains and the Sangre de Cristos. Measuring 7,302 yards from the back tees, this Jep Wille links-style design is open to the public and has gently rolling terrain with four sets of tees to make the course enjoyable to all. There is a great restaurant to complement the great golf and a gorgeous patio to sit and enjoy a meal and cocktail after play or hold a special event for your family or company. We have PGA Professionals, a fully-equipped pro shop and practice facility. 575.758.7300 www.TaosCountryClub.com

TOWA GOLF RESORT – Santa Fe, NM Towa Golf Club is part of the Four Diamond Buffalo Thunder Resort and Casino, which is located only 15 short minutes north of the renowned Santa Fe Plaza. Towa is a magnificient collection of 27 holes designed by Hale Irwin and Bill Phillips. With a full array of amenities including a driving range, putting greens, full service club house with food and beverage service, pro shop, professional staff and grounds, Towa is a golfer’s paradise featuring the only island green in New Mexico. Please call for tee times and current rates. 505.455.9000 or toll-free 877.465.3489 www.BuffaloThunderResort.com hawk-media.com

REBIRTH OF A CLASSIC

“T

he first and most important function of third places is that of uniting the neighborhood… Assimilation is a function to which third places are well-suited. They serve as ‘Ports of Entry’ for visitors, and places where newcomers may be introduced to many of their predecessors.” — Ray Oldenburg, The Great Good Place: Cafes, Coffeeshops,

was Old Martinez Hall. With the adjoining El Cortez Tavern as a popular watering hole among the Spanish locals, the Hall played host to weddings, christenings, baptisms, concerts, dances, theater, political functions, and so on. It was “the spot.” Until it wasn’t. By 2006, the vibrant icon had become a shell of itself. While its local

became Old Martina’s Hall. And the past met its present. BUILDING BLOCKS Flashback to the farm in Utah, where Martina was living with her son, and her son’s father. Martina’s neighbor, who had ties to Taos, had called her about possibly becoming a partner in a business venture involving a “little fixer-upper”

PHOTO: TINA LARKIN

Bookstores, Bars, Hair Salons, and other Hang-Outs at the Heart of a Community. This notion of the “third place” (home, being first; workplace, being second) remains an essential part of a community’s fabric and character; those places where people mix and mingle, imbibe and dine, swap stories and crack jokes. For a great many years, in the heart of the Ranchos community, the hot spot “third place” 32

legend had grown nearfolkloric in stature, the 230-year-old building itself was in a state of erosion and decay. Its future seemed to point toward nostalgia and reminiscence. Then its fate lined up with that of Martina Gebhardt’s, a German-born architect and producer of organic cosmetics. The Hall’s “resurrection” would not only include a structural make-over, but also a genderconversion: Old Martinez Hall

in the Taos area. Martina says, “I kind of liked the challenge to learn something new, and was always in love with adobe buildings. Send me some pictures I told him.” Martina laughs, explaining how her neighbor couldn’t really handle digital images well—when she opened them they were all black—“I had to make a decision, and just trust… so I said: okay, why not?” When Martina first saw

the Hall, and the state it was in, she thought: “Oh my gosh, a little fixer-upper! It was in horrible condition. It was eroding. There were already two vigas that were broken down and the roof was caving in. This is usually something you don’t want to touch, because it’s even so dangerous to fix it.” In a compressed nutshell: Not only did Martina decide to go ahead with the restoration of the building (one of her specialties as an architect had been the restoration of historic buildings), but she did so alone. Well-acquainted with the image of the world-famous Ranchos Church (she had affixed a photo of the church on the cover of her notebook when she studied architecture in Munich) which is located directly across the street from the Hall, and galvanized by her love of the area’s history and adobe architecture, Martina was determined to see the building brought back to life. Elaborate reconstruction of the building, combined with the bureaucratic roadblocks born of insular small-town politics, turned the venture into an arduous four-year project. When I ask her if she ever seriously considered throwing in the towel, Martina says, “No, this is just not my nature. I fight things through. I had this vision about this place being revived and had it so clearly in my head. I thought: I know it will happen. Just keep going and don’t take it personally.” HighCountry 2013

RE-VISIONING HISTORY Old Martina’s Hall officially opened last September, and was an instant hit in the community. In the days after the opening, Martina was downstairs, meeting and greeting people, and says, “It was such happy feedback, so wonderful… no words to describe this. This extreme change from construction and noise to people sitting there.” New components such as a state-of-the-art kitchen, wood-fired pizza oven, and high-tech sound system have been added, but not at the expense of the rustic flavor and charm that characterizes the interior (all of the original vigas, doors and abobe bricks have been reused). Three dining areas, one flanked by a bar whose beautiful granite counter could be dubbed “mountain nouveau,” precede the nearly 6,500 square-foot Hall that lies on the other side of the wooden doors. The Hall— which boasts the largest viga ceiling in the world—and its stage, will once again play host to a variety of events, especially music and dinner theatre. Martina says, “It’s like a community center here. It always was for the community, always served the community, with weddings, concerts, meetings, with its political speeches.” (This past October, a crowd of nearly four hundred people gathered in the Hall for an event featuring journalist and author Amy Goodman.) hawk-media.com

A second-floor balcony, with seating, overlooks the hall, and in the front portion of the second floor, there is a private dining room, and a patio, offering a prime view of the Ranchos Church. The restaurant serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The cuisine is a dynamic “melting pot” of cultural flavors—local New Mexican, Spanish, French, German, Italian—and head chef, Eduardo Gutierrez, who originally hails from Valencia, Spain, is a culinary genius whose star is sure to keep rising. There is also an inhouse bakery, offering pastries and baguettes that are made on the premises. Martina, who still has 10,000 more square feet available in the adjacent building, is planning various ideas for expansion: a wellness spa center, workshops and classes. She says, “I’m really excited about this community because it has such a rich diversity… I would love to see this place giving hope to young people, that they are able to find a job, or are getting trained, or finding ways to entertain themselves besides their video games. There are so many ways how people can enjoy life, and I hope we can be a supplier for the fun part of life.” It seems that the “little fixer-upper” in the heart of Ranchos is ready to reclaim its status as a hot spot “third place.”

— John Biscello

A TAOS ICON REBORN

breakfast lunch dinner special events weddings live music dance hall cakes & pastries meetings workshops Dine inside or on our lower or upper outside patios

Across from the famous adobe church, San Francisco de Asis

575.758.3003 4140 State Road 68 x Ranchos de Taos www.oldmartinashall.com 33

and salads. We also have seafood,

options. Beer and wine. Patio

vegetarian and gluten-free

dining, spectacular views. Dine

options. Try our signature mint-

in or take out. Voted #1 Pizza

lemonade or spiced sangria.

in Taos this year! 7 days. 11 am-

We serve beer and wine, coffee

close. Menu at TaosPizza.com

and espresso and an irresistible selection of sweet treats. Patio is open during warmer months. Open Tuesday-Sunday / 8 am-3

DINING TAOS BENT STREET CAFE & DELI

GRAHAM’S GRILL – 106

– 120 Bent Street, Taos, NM.

Paseo del Pueblo Norte, 575-751-

575-758-5787. A local favorite

1350. Wine Spectator’s Award of

with menu selections to satisfy

Excellence. Experience honest,

every palate. Served in a relaxed

creative, not-fussy food at the

atmosphere featuring a year-

Best of Taos award winner for

round heated patio and outdoor

overall restaurant, ambiance,

terrace. Omelettes, eggs benedict,

outstanding chef, and customer

gourmet french toast, excellent

service. Award-winning wines

sandwiches, creative salads and

and beer complement every

homemade soups and desserts.

memorable meal. Enjoy break-

Daily specials, chicken or beef

fast, lunch, or dinner inside or on

burrito and tamales plates.

our outdoor patio. 8 am to 3 pm.

Vegetarian & vegan friendly. Open

Open-Table.com

7 days for breakfast, lunch, and

pm. Visit GutizTaos.com

RICKY’S – Located 2 1/2 blocks south of Taos Plaza on the main road, 312 Paseo Del Pueblo Sur. 575-758-1156. A local’s favorite known for our red and green

KTAOS SOLAR CENTER –

chile. Call in your takeout order

At the base of Taos Mountain,

in advance and drive through the

equidistant from Taos Ski Valley

side window for pickup or come

and the historic town center: the

sit in our cozy café for the best

perfect destination for entertain-

New Mexican/American food.

ment year-round. In addition to

Combo or a la carte, chile rel-

a full bar and restaurant open 7

lenos, stuffed sopaipillas, sirloin

days a week, KTAOS is home to

steak, fried chicken, burgers,

the largest events venue in North-

sandwiches, fresh salads, many

ern New Mexico. The venue also

vegetarian dishes to choose from

serves as location to the region’s

and much more! Kid’s menu

most successful radio station

available. Breakfast all day.

KTAOS 101.9 FM and Luna 103.7

80% of our dishes are available

FM and features both breathtak-

vegetarian. Open 7 days a week

ing views and sprawling lawns,

from 7 am to 8 pm for breakfast,

making it the best place to drink

lunch and dinner.

in the view. More information at KTAOS.com

TAOS PIZZA OUT BACK – 712 Paseo del Pueblo Norte.

GUADALAJARA GRILL –

LAMBERT’S OF TAOS – 123

Two locations in Taos: Southside

575-758-3112. Voted “Best of

Bent Street. 575-758-1009. New

– 1384 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. 575-

Taos: Best Pizza” for 10

location in the old Apple Tree

751-0063. Northside – 822 Paseo

consecutive years. We start each

Restaurant. Voted “Best of Taos:

del Pueblo Norte. 575-737-0816.

morning with organic flour and

Best Restaurant.” Now open for

“Our secret sauce makes the dif-

fresh produce to create our

lunch. Beautiful patio, remod-

ference!” Authentic Mexican food

acclaimed hand-rolled pizzas.

eled dining rooms, Treehouse

in New Mexico. Taos Seafood,

Our reclaimed adobe abode is

Bar & Lounge upstairs. Our

Chile Rellenos, Azteca Quesadilla,

the perfect setting for fun, foam

emphasis has always been on

Camarones a la Diabla, Ceviche

and feasting. Enjoy a unique

quality and value. Sauces made

and so much more. Beer, Wine,

Taos experience where the three

from scratch (such as lamb

Agave Margaritas. Winter hours:

local cultures relax and mingle

demi-glace). Extensive wine list

Sun 10:30-8:30 pm. Fri-Sat 10:30

with international travelers.

and specialty cocktails. Excellent

to 9 pm. Open 7 days. Full menu

Open daily at 11 am. Full menu

service, distinctive and fresh cui-

at GuadalajaraGrillTaos.com

online at TaosPizzaOutback.com

sine, unpretentious atmosphere.

ganic vegetables, meats and fish,

GUTIZ – 812B Paseo del Pueblo

LambertsOfTaos.com

RED RIVER

including favorites like buffalo,

Norte, 575-758-1226. Delicious

PIZANOS PIZZA & PASTA –

CAPO’S CORNER – 110 Pio-

elk, trout. Delectable desserts.

and affordable breakfast and

No. 23 Hwy. 150. 575-776-1050

neer Road. 575-754-6297. Voted

Lunch, dinner, Saturday and

lunch with a Latin-French flair.

A family-friendly restaurant,

“Best of Taos” for Pizza! Capo’s

Sunday brunch. Reservations

Fresh baked bread and pastries.

specializing in hand-tossed N.Y.

offers great prices and superior

recommended. See our menu:

Sauces and dishes from scratch.

style pizza, pasta, sandwiches,

service. Menu includes authentic

DocMartinsRestaurant.com

Creative breakfasts, sandwiches

hot wings and more. Gluten-free

Italian food, pizza, ribs, steaks,

Sunday brunch. Full menu at BentStreetDeli.com DOC MARTIN’S RESTAURANT – 1/2 block N of Taos Plaza in The Historic Taos Inn, 575-758-1977. Fresh, fine dining in a casual, historic setting. Wine Spectator’s “Best Of” Award Of Excellence winner for over 25 consecutive years. Chef “Zippy” White creates innovative Regional New American Cuisine using the freshest local ingredients, specializing in or-

HighCountry 2013

hamburgers and sandwiches.

and Hatcha’s Smothered

views. Or, enjoy the grand

Beer and wine available.

Enchiladas to the best

dining room with menu

Enjoy family fun dining with

Grilled Trout this side of the

selections of steak, seafood,

great views. Carry out, ban-

Pecos. Now offering chiles

and fresh salads to comple-

quet room facilities, pizza to

and salsas in a jar, from our

ment the gourmet appetiz-

go, kids’ menu. Reservations

kitchen to yours.

ers. Children’s menu also

for large parties available. Hours: 11:30 - 2 pm lunch; 5-9 pm dinner. Free wifi.

LEGENDS GRILL – Located on the second floor

available. Open Tuesday – Saturday. 575-377-3055.

of The Lodge at Angel Fire

SUNSET GRILL – #10

Resort. 575-377-4201. For

Five Springs Road across

the whole family. Proudly

from Chile Express Chair-

SUNDANCE – High Street

serving 1/2 lb. Angus beef

lift. 575-377-6681. Serving

at Copper King. 575-754-

burgers, sandwiches, salads,

breakfast Saturday and

2971. Same great food, same

pastas, chicken fried steak

Sunday from 8 to 10:30 am.

great service. Celebrating

and more. Great selection of

Burritos, pancakes, huevos

our 39th year. Steaks, salads

craft beers on tap. Sports on

rancheros and eggs benedict

and excellent Mexican food.

the big screens! Open daily 4

are available. Lunch menu

Great sopaipillas! Specials

pm-9 pm.

includes appetizers, burg-

THE COFFEE HOUSE

ers, sandwiches, salads, fish

Menu online at CaposRedRiver.com

include: shrimp fajitas and quesadillas. Frozen wine Margaritas. Reservations welcome. Call for to-go orders. Open nightly at 5 pm.

& BISTRO – In the lobby of The Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-377-4234. Only Starbucks in town. Spe-

Grab a homemade breakfast

of the Mountain View Mall

burrito (local favorite). Tasty

ST. JAMES HOTEL – 17th

(next to the Lowe’s Valley

omelets cooked to order,

and Collison in Cimarron.

Market). 575-377-2774.

Huevos Rancheros, gourmet

Reservations. 575-376-2664.

Voted “Best of Angel Fire.”

paninis, sandwiches, fresh

Come and enjoy our newly

We serve specialty pizzas,

salads, homemade dressings.

remodeled St. James Hotel!

baked pastas, and salads all

Daily specials. Smoothies,

Our broad-based menu is pre-

in a fun relaxed atmosphere.

frozen lemonades, Italian

pared fresh daily. We have the

We also offer a wide selec-

sodas, ice cream. Beer, wine

best Mexican food and we are

tion of handcrafted beers

and spirits. Open daily 7

one of the best steak places in

and fine wines. Dine in or

am-4 pm, year round.

the Southwest. Homemade

ANGEL FIRE GOLF &

soups and desserts everyday!

AngelFiredPizza.com

your day at the downstairs Par & Grill open daily 7

HATCHA’S GRILL – 3453

am-4 pm featuring delicious

Mountain View Blvd., Suite

baked goods and a hot break-

D. 575-377-7011. Welcome

fast menu or an unforget-

home to the best of northern

table lunch menu special-

New Mexican cuisine. Three

izing in burgers, sandwiches,

generations of authentic

wraps and salads. Upstairs,

dishes, made fresh daily.

experience Elements fine

From Breakfast Burritos,

dining on the casual patio or

Grilled Avocado Appetizer,

bar with stunning mountain

hawk-media.com

at the Historic Taos Inn

HAPPY HOUR!

Mon-Fri 4-6 pm

have an extensive beer and

Located on the second floor

COUNTRY CLUB – Start

chicken and fish dinners. We

breakfasts and lunches daily.

Happy Hour. Visit us at

‘the living room of Taos’

menu includes steaks, pasta,

ANGEL FIRED PIZZA –

Sunday 3 pm-9 pm. Daily

and chicken dishes. Dinner

cialty coffees and freshly

take out. Open Tuesday-

& chips, homemade soups

ANGEL FIRE

baked goods, delicious full

x x

wine list along with a full bar.

CIMARRON

Premier Live Music Perfect Margaritas Famous Nachos

Come see our huge 1880s Western bar for a variety of fine wines, beers and cocktails. Breakfast buffet every day for $9.95! Open 7 days a week, 7 am - 9 pm.

575 758 2233 AdobeBar.com 35

2013 summer

CALENDAR

JUNE 1 1 1-2 1-2 1-2 1 1 2 1-2 6 6 7-8 7-9 8 8-9 8-9 13-15 15 13 15 15 15-16 15-16 16 15-16 16 21-23 21-26 21 22 22-23 24 36

Taos Poetry Festival Free Fly Fishing Clinic every Saturday, Sipapu Red River Classic Car Show Taos Tango in Durango NM Trials Assoc. State Series Dirt Bike Run, Sipapu Scenic Summer Chairlift Rides, Fri-Sun, Red River Eagle Nest Farmer’s Market, Fridays through Labor Day Taos Opera Institute Opening Night, Taos Ski Valley Taos Chamber Music Celebration Taos Plaza Live – Thursdays through Labor Day Solarfest’s Summer Stampede Tour - Music River & Brews Blues Fest, Red River Ski Area Chile Challenge Mountain Bike Festival, AF Resort “Break the Cycle” Race Against Domestic Violence, South Fork, CO Annual Clayton Lake Trout Derby Animas River Days, Durango Red River Songwriters Camp Fishing Derby at Tucker Ponds, South Fork, CO San Antonio Feast Day Corn Dance, Taos Pueblo For the Health Of It! Run/Walk, Taos Youth & Family Ctr. Arts & Crafts Festival, Mora Fine Art and Wine Festival, Red River Big Mtn. Enduro Mountain Bike Race, Angel Fire Fishing Derby at Tucker Ponds, South Fork, CO Day Out w/Thomas: Mystery on the Rails Tour, Chama Taos School of Music 2013 season opens, ongoing Day Out w/Thomas: Mystery on the Rails Tour, Chama Red River Family Encampment Melodrama, Strater Hotel, Durango, ongoing nightly Angel Fire Endurance Run Cimarron Days Along The Santa Fe Trail San Juan Feast Day Corn Dance, Taos Pueblo

28 28-30 29 29 29-30

Burris and Sons Rodeos, South Fork, ongoing Chama Territorial Days Toast of Taos Wine Festival and Golf Tournament Flea Market, Angel Fire Rough Riders 200 Trail Rides, Angel Fire

JULY 1-8 4 5 6 6 6 6 6-7 7 12-21 13 13-14 12-14 16 20 20 20-21 20-28 19-21 26-28 27-28 27-28

Living History Rendezvous, Eagle Nest Fourth of July parades & ceremonies, all areas Freedom From Violence Arts & Crafts Fair, Taos Plaza Mountain West Vintage Trials Assoc. event, Sipapu Hoodstock: Northern NM Music & Art, Red River Movies Under the Stars, Angel Fire, Fridays in July Gran Fondo Bike Race, Taos 39th Annual Arts & Crafts Fair, Sipapu South Fork, CO, Concert Series, ongoing UNM Summer Writers’ Conference, Taos Taos Fandango Angel Fire ArtsFest 28th Annual Taos Pueblo Powwow Wine Buyers Club, Angel Fire Angel Fire Garden Tour Explore The Arts, Cimarron N. Rio Grande Sportsmen’s Club Championship, Sipapu Fiesta Days, Durango Fiestas de Taos Rough Rider Motorcycle Rally, Las Vegas, NM Spanish Market, Santa Fe 31st Annual Arts & Crafts Festival, Eagle Nest

AUGUST 2-4 3

Gravity Nat’l Championships USA Mtn. Bike, Angel Fire N. American Trials / American Motorcycle, Angel Fire HighCountry 2013

3 Taos Home and Garden Tour 3 10K Up And Over Trail Run, Taos Ski Valley 3 Maverick Club Ranch Rodeo, Cimarron 8 Red River Valley Buckaroo Ball 9 Mushroom Foray, South Fork, CO 10 Rhythms of the Rio Music Festival, South Fork, CO 15-17 Hot Chili Days, Cool Mountain Nights, Red River 16 Music From Angel Fire 2013 Season Begins 17-18 Santa Fe Indian Market 17 Balloon Festival, South Fork, CO 24 Music On The Rocks Music Festival, Sipapu 24 Harder than Hell Mountain Bike Race, Red River 30 6th Annual Taos Artist Organization Studio Tour 30 Miss NM Saloon Girl, Eagle Nest 30 Arts About Town, Angel Fire 31 Bikes, Blues and Brews Fest – Angel Fire 30-Sept 1 Mountain Bike Freeride and Festival, Angel Fire 30-Sept 1 Angel Fire Parade of Homes 30-Sept 1 Chama Valley Studio Tour 30-Sept 2 Four Corners Motorcycle Rally, Durango

26-29 27 28-29 27-29 28-29 29-30

SEPTEMBER 3 5-7 6 6-7 8 13-15 14 21-28 20-22 21

Memorial Brick Laying Ceremonies, Vietnam Veterans Memorial State Park, Angel Fire Michael Hearne’s 11th Big Barndance, Taos Ski Valley Smithsonian traveling exhibit, Trinidad, CO Bavarian Weekend BMW Motorcycle Rally, Sipapu Enchanted Circle Century Bike Tour, Red River Red River Bluegrass Music Festival Oktoberfest, Taos Ski Valley Fishfest, Eagle Nest Lake Shortgrass Music Festival, Cimarron RedFest Music Festival

hawk-media.com

Spanish Peaks International Celtic Festival, La Veta, CO Taos Fall Arts Festival Drew Judycki Memorial Disc Golf Tournament, Red River Aspencade Arts & Crafts Festival, Red River Old Taos Trade Fair, Martinez Hacienda, Taos San Geronimo Day, Taos Pueblo

OCTOBER 3-6 5-6 5-6 11-13 19 25-27

Durango Cowboy Gathering Taos Wool Fest El Rito Studio Tour Oktoberfest, Red River Chile Cook-Off, South Fork Taos Balloon Rally

INFO ANGEL FIRE

800-446-8117

CHAMA

800-477-0149

CLAYTON

800-390-7858

CIMARRON

575-376-2417

DURANGO

970-247-3500

EAGLE NEST

800-494-9117

LAS VEGAS

800-832-5947

PAGOSA SPRINGS

800-252-2204

RED RIVER

800-348-6444

SANTA FE

800-777-2489

SOUTH FORK

800-571-0881

TAOS COUNTY

800-732-8267

TAOS PUEBLO

575-758-1028

TAOS SKI VALLEY

800-517-9816

Dates subject to change. Check with local chambers for updated information.

FESTIVAL FAVORITES MUSIC FROM ANGEL FIRE August 16 – September 1, 2013. The summer of 2013 will mark the 30th Anniversary of world-class chamber music performed in 15 concerts featuring more than 35 international artists in the Northern New Mexico communities of Angel Fire, Taos, Raton and Las Vegas. 2013 artists include Ida Kavafian, Artistic Director, violin; Anne-Marie McDermott, piano; Tara Helen O’Connor, flute; the Harlem Quartet and Imani Winds among

many others. Our Composerin-Residence will be Chick Corea. Programming will include 30 favorites from chamber music repertoire and past Festival seasons. Tickets range from $20 - $35. 888-377-3300 or purchase at MusicFromAngelFire.org

Native arts and mouthwatering foods from a wide array of local food vendors. Enjoy Native American song, dance, and culture beneath the stars and beautiful Taos Mountain. Call 575-741-0181 for directions or visit us online at TaosPuebloPowWow.com

TAOS PUEBLO POW WOW

MICHAEL HEARNE’S 11th ANNUAL BIG BARNDANCE MUSIC FESTIVAL

July 12, 13, & 14, 2013. The 28th Annual Taos Pueblo Pow Wow is a social celebration of contemporary Native American dance, music, and culture. The pow wow boasts exquisite

September 5-7, 2013 – This year, Michael Hearne’s Big Barn Dance Music Festival is going to a whole new level: this one-of-a-kind, world class music festival is moving up to a one-of-a-kind, world class location… the mountain at Taos Ski Valley! A listening room experience in a festival setting, come experience some of the most diverse and well-respected names in Traditional Country, American and Folk music… along with some good old fashioned “boot scootin’.” Performers include Jimmy LaFave, Chuck Cannon, Walt Wilkins, Susan Gibson, South by Southwest, The Rifters and many more! Visit MichaelHearne.com for information on lodging packages and ticketing.

G allup Inter-Tribal Indian

SHORTGRASS FESTIVAL

August 7-11, 2013

September 20-22, 2013 – The ShortGrass Festival, on the eastern face of the Sangre

Ceremonial

de Cristo Mountains in New Mexico, is a celebration of the open range and limitless sky, and invites music lovers to enjoy the immense natural beauty of the area along with a feast of musical performances from some of the very best concert artists in the world. Friday, Sept. 20, 8 pm: Adam Agee and Jon Sousa, Celtic Fiddle, Guitar and Banjo at the Kit Carson Museum, Rayado/Philmont Scout Ranch. Saturday Sept. 21, 7 pm: Joe Ely at Colfax Tavern (Must be 21 to attend.) Sunday Sept. 22, 4 pm: Duo Parnas, Violin and ‘cello at United Methodist Church. Monday, Sept 23: Colfax Co. school outreach, 9 am: Duo Parnas, Violin & ‘cello at the historic Shuler Theater in Raton. For more information call 575.376.2417 or go to ShortGrassFestival.com

FIESTAS DE TAOS July 19-21, 2013. The Annual Fiestas de Taos weekend fills Taos Plaza with Spanish Folk music, northern New Mexican cuisine and native dance. Four centuries of Taos culture are celebrated with high-spirited fervor. Be sure to catch the famous Historical Parade on Sunday afternoon – where mounted conquistadores mingle with tribal dancers, French fur trappers and eye-popping floats. For more, visit FiestasDeTaos.com

PHOTO: JEROME DE WOLFE

HighCountry 2013

THE REST WILL COME naturally.

SHUTER

shuter construction 575.377.6456 575.377.3822 fax PO Box 303

â&#x20AC;˘

Angel Fire NM 87710

shuter@taosnet.com www.shuterconstruction.com lic #90984