SkiCountry GUIDE TO SKIING THE SOUTHWEST
Winter 2013
Angel Fire Chama Durango Pagosa Springs Taos Taos Ski Valley Red River Sipapu Ski Apache South Fork Wolf Creek
SCAN ME!
SKI COUNTRY AD
SKIWEAR
SKIS & BOARDS
RETAIL & RENTAL
575.377.6612 ski reservation hotline: 575.377.6559
angel fire’s top shop near the resort hotel wintersportsskishop.com
Welcome
8
Taos Lodging
10
Our Towns
13
Disney Shoots Lone Ranger
16
Ski The Southwest
21
Taos Ski Valley, Angel Fire Resort
22
Red River, Enchanted Forest XC
23
Ski Apache, Sipapu
24
Purgatory at DMR, Wolf Creek
25
Durango – Ski Town
26
Hot Springs and Cold Spots
28
Blasting Into the Backcountry
33
Dining
36
Calendar of Events
38
6
SKICOUNTRY 2013
CONTENTS
Publisher/Editor Design/Production
Joe Haukebo Digerati Design
Advertising Sales
Jess Heald
Contributing Writers John Biscello, Michael Johnstone, Michele Potter Photography Sven Brunso, Geraint Smith, Scott D.W. Smith Cover photo
Courtesy of Scott D.W. Smith / Durango Mountain Resort
Contents photo www.hawk-media.com
Geraint Smith
HighCountry and SkiCountry Visitor Guides are published by Hawk Media. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission from the Publisher. Requests for permission should be directed to: Hawk Media PO Box 182 Angel Fire, NM 87710 575 595 0575 | 575 758 4047 info@hawk-media.com Scan this code! Or visit us at www.hawk-media.com for more articles, photos & e-zines
7
angel fire O
more than a mountain
a village a vacation a destination a dream a home 8
ut of breath, a younger cousin of mine burst into her parents’ motel room. “What’s the matter? What’s the matter?” they asked. “The pool… is full of cousins,” she said. A family reunion years ago. And as nothing is cooler than cousins, she was overwhelmed seeing so many cousins all at once. All of us, when we were young, complained to our parents that we didn’t see our cousins – and there were tons of them – enough. And to parents who often preached about the importance of family, we knew they were easy targets: we were just bucking for a trip. Sometimes, it paid off. Now, most of us grown up and parents ourselves, we hear the same thing. But the logistics are even more sketchy. Cousins we occasionally see at weddings and funerals are scattered everywhere, settled into their own busy lives. In our tribe there are all kinds of cousins. They come in all shape and sizes: skinny and fat, brainiacs and meatheads, funny and quiet, energetic and not so much. But there’s a similarity between us all. With billions of people on the planet, it’s a little scary to look out and see some of yourself in others, and notice some of them in you; their actions and antics can look a little too familiar. Still, all of us love cousin time. “You can’t hurt steel,” one of my favorites used to say when I’d see him and sock him in the arm. We were boys, rough and tough, not huggers, unless maybe when we were wrestling. Cousins were always full of bad ideas, dumb dares, even dumber double dares. But they were always good for a laugh, an adventure – trouble waiting to happen. Our parents would roll their eyes – we gave them plenty of opportunities to practice – and wonder how something so good SKICOUNTRY 2013
WELCOME
to skicountry
dining shopping sledding tubing
(family) could get so quickly out of hand. Trouble followed us or we followed trouble – to our parents, same difference. None of us were rotten kids; we just had a healthy appetite for mischief. It was more a case of spontaneous combustion than calculated planning by the kids. It would start out innocently enough when you’re small – jumping on the bed, running around naked in the neighbor’s yard, finding stashed Christmas gifts early, and unwrapping them all to make sure everyone was getting the right present. But then evolution would kick in. DNA would grab you by the ear and say, “Is that all you got?” It wasn’t. Dumb stuff was always encouraged by cousins; the dumber the better. So we’d plant a coffee can over lit firecrackers and sit on it because it felt like you were getting kicked in the butt. Or hold world burping championships (700 in a row was the record). We loved working with cheese – sticking limburger on the manifold of the honeymoon car of a cousin getting married or dropping goat cheese into the mouth of a snoring sister. Food fights were as common as pillow fights. Jumping off the roof onto a trampoline was usually good for an injury. But we thought we were bullet proof; getting wounded was just part of the gig. Accidents ran rampant, bones were broken, kindred blood was spilled. We thought of it as learning about our limits; our parents thought of it as testing theirs. The only rule in the unwritten cousin code of conduct was don’t tattle. If you snitch on another cousin, you’re dead meat. You might as well just go ahead and eat a handful of worms, ‘cause they’re going to make you do it anyway. As we got older, and motors started coming into the picture, our parents’ nerves www.hawk-media.com
got thinner and thinner. Riding Mopeds with no brakes, sinking boats in thunderstorms, jumping anything on motorcycles – we lived for the moment. That part of our brain which warns of possible consequences was totally underdeveloped. Two of my cousins not yet old enough to drive decided they should get some practice in. So when their parents went out for the evening, they each jumped in a car and steered slowly, and crookedly, in opposite directions – only to meet head-on on the other side of the block. And there was the cousin who climbed in his dad’s sports car, bumped the shift into neutral and coasted down their steep driveway, across the road, up the neighbor’s yard… and into their picture windows. Nice. His standing in the cousin community went way up. Our parents must have been obsessed with geography, because standard questions in the wake of one of our escapades were “What in the world were you thinking?” or “How on earth did you come up with that?” Even if you had a good answer, like “I don’t know, Mom, sometimes your brain just works against you,” it didn’t get you too far. So you paid your penance, did your time, all the while thinking it unfair, because it wasn’t your idea to have kids and stuff happens when cousins are around; it’s their bloodline too, what do you expect? And every once in a while, if you did something really stupendously stupid, we could render our parents speechless. That was the ultimate. You’d do hard time: chores forever. But sooner or later you’d bounce back. You can’t keep a good cousin down. Here’s hoping you bring your cousins to the Southwest; there’s nothing like quality family time.
— Joe Haukebo, Publisher
fishing snowmobile sleigh ride snowshoe cross country downhill …or just relax
angelfirefun.com 575-377-6555 866-668-7787
Kachina Lodge in Taos and Meetings Center
L
ocated 4 blocks from the historic Taos Plaza, shops, galleries and museums. Our full-service hotel has it all! We include a full hot breakfast. We have a leisure bar/lounge with pool tables, video games, and coffee shop. Southwestern dining in our restaurant. Outdoor seasonally heated pool, hot tub, and free wi-fi in all areas. Nightly Indian dances MayOctober. We are near the Taos Casino and Taos Pueblo. Affordable prices that can accommodate any budget. Please call now! You’ll like our friendly service staff.
800.522.4462 575.758.2275 Email: stay@kachinalodge.com www.kachinalodge.com
Rio Hondo Condominiums
T
wo, three and four bedroom, two bath condos. All have fullyequipped kitchens, living rooms with a wood or gas fireplace, and dining room areas with views out to the back deck or balcony, most of which overlook the Hondo River against a beautiful Rocky Mountain backdrop. We have the largest and nicest outdoor hot tub on the mountain and a dry sauna to soak and steam under the stars after hiking mountain trails in summer or a long day of skiing or snowboarding in winter. All our condos have DISH Satellite TV, free wireless internet, and the best staff on the mountain! Call now or visit our website to plan your perfect vacation in Taos Ski Valley! Summer schedule is flexible.
575.776.2646 800.461.8263 www.riohondocondos.com PHOTO: GERAINT SMITH
taos LODGING
El Pueblo Lodge
Best location for best value in town
E
The Historic Taos Inn
One of America’s Great Inns
l Pueblo Lodge combines Southwest charm with early Taos architecture. All of our guest rooms have complimentary WI-FI and HBO, and many have fireplaces. New Serta® beds, all-new pillows and down comforters. We offer a Continental Breakfast each morning and we have a heated, seasonal pool and year-round hot tub for your enjoyment. Fresh baked cookies each afternoon. Pet-friendly rooms are available. New 40inch flat screen TVs. Three blocks from the historic Taos Plaza and 18 miles from Taos Ski Valley. Taos Pueblo and Taos Mountain Casino are just 2 miles north. Visit our website for information on specials and packages.
E
575.758.8700 800.433.9612 elpueblo@newmex.com www.elpueblolodge.com
575.758.2233 taosinn.com
xperience Southwestern charm and history at The Historic Taos Inn located in the heart of Taos’ historic district. Acclaimed by National Geographic Traveler as “One of America’s Great Inns,” and listed on the National and New Mexico Registers of Historic Places. Choose from 44 unique rooms and suites, most with Pueblo-style fireplaces. Award-winning Doc Martin’s Restaurant (“a legendary restaurant...” – Bon Appetit), and The Adobe Bar (“The social center of Taos...” – Travel and Leisure) on the premises. Great bistro menu, Happy Hour Monday-Friday 4-6 pm. Complimentary live music every night. See our website for current specials on accommodations!
our TOWNS
ANGEL FIRE DURANGO PAGOSA RED RIVER SANTA FE SOUTH FORK TAOS TAOS SKI VALLEY
PHOTOS: GERAINT SMITH
Y
ou have arrived. Sure, there were several detours and a few wrong turns, and your landing wasn’t exactly what you’d call smooth; but your space cruiser has touched down safely upon a craggy plot of earth. You emerge from your space cruiser, all three of your eyes alight with curiosity, as you scan your surroundings: majestic trees bundled in snow; a clear and shallow stream gurgling in monotone; and in the immediate distance, a powder-capped mountain that reminds you of a sleeping giant stretched supine across the spacious landscape. You adjust your oxygenator, then breathe in deeply: the air is sharp, crisp, cleanly spiked. You stand there, transfixed, recalling the words of your brother which resonate deeply in your twin-hearts: I was lucky to have crash-landed where I did. It was a region full of charm, tradition, natural beauty,
and a palpable mystique. Brother my brother, when you are old enough to fly your own spacecruiser, you must go and experience this place for yourself. Now, the winter of 20122013, you have made it, and all we can say is, whether you’re a visitor from far far away, or from the nearer provinces of Dallas, Chicago or New York, northern New Mexico and the southern Rockies remain the alternative to alternatives.
Postcards from the edge I once read a description of angels that characterized them as fierce and sweet. In this respect, Taos can lay claim to true angel-dom. With Taos Mountain reigning as the geological matriarch, and Taos Pueblo (one of the oldest continuously inhabited communities in North America) remaining the area’s tried-and-true “soul,” Taos has been home to countless generations of Spanish families, and continues to draw a radical mix of “black sheep,” urban refugees, artists and thrill-seekers. Ruggedness of living and attitude runs parallel to generosity of spirit and acceptance. A descent into the Gorge, which is cleaved by the Rio Grande River, provides a first-hand glimpse into pre-history and awe-inspiring beauty. Back on “ground level,” there
are a number of celebrations that mark winter-time in Taos: The Lighting of Ledoux (December 8), transforms historic Ledoux Street into a pedestrian hot-spot, with shops and businesses offering food and drink, and bonfires, farolitos and luminarias warming and lighting the way. Las Posadas (December 16-24), the Spanish tradition of reenacting the story of Joseph and Mary’s nine-night search for lodging, takes place outside the world-renowned Ranchos Church. Christmas Eve at Taos Pueblo means a dazzling interplay of shadow and light, as large bonfires dance and rage, rifle-fire salutes take place on the adobe rooftops, and the Procession of the Virgin binds it all together. Fifteen miles northeast of Taos, Taos Ski Valley, one of the last family-owned ski resorts in North America, remains a top-flight winter playground with over 1,290 acres of terrain. The ski and snowboard season opens on Thanksgiving Continued on page 15
13
PURE BLISS
32km Machine Groomed Trails 15km Snowshoe Trails 5km Trails for Dogs
Day Lodge • Full Rental Shop • Snack Bar XC Skiwear & Supplies Christmas Luminaria Tour Moonlight Ski Tours Headlamp Snowshoe Tours
Bobcat Pass, Red River, NM
www.EFXC.com
575.754.6112
Passionately
Lifts West C ON D OM I N I U M
4
R E S ORT HOT E L
LW
800.221.1859 575.754 .2778 www.LiftsWest.com
WINTER RECREATION Event calendar WEBCAMS DINING, SHOPPING ENTERTAINMENT
800-348-6444
575-754-2366 Ext. 1 www.redrivernewmex.com
HORSES
HORSES
T
he Riverside sprawls comfortably over three acres of beautifully landscaped grounds, only 50 feet from the Copper Chairlift. Families love our wonderful playground, lawn games, BBQ area and hot tub. Amenities include telephones, kitchens, fireplaces, satellite TV, DVD players and free wireless internet at very reasonable rates. We now have laundry services, too. Ask about our off-season and Wednesday Free packages!
800.432.9999 575.754.2252 www.RedRiver-NM.com 14
Visit our website for
Satellite TV Free Wireless Internet Non-Smoking Rooms Avail. Conference Rooms Souvenir Shops & Café
The Family Vacation of a Lifetime… Any Time of Year!
the
promoting Red River.
Rides Hourly or Daily, Year-Round Breakfast or Dinner • Overnights Horse Drawn Wagons & Sleigh Rides
r Roadrunner Tours Ltds 575-377-6416 www.rtours.com
Elk Horn Lodge 575-377-2811 www.elkhornlodgeangelfire.com SKICOUNTRY 2013
Day, Thursday through Friday to start, then seven days a week beginning December 15. Taos Ski Valley’s beloved brew-haha – the 17th Annual Brew Master’s Festival (December 22) – promises an evening of mug shots and sure hops.
A modern classic In order to be irreplaceable, one must always be different. – Coco Chanel Perhaps Miss Chanel’s dictum explains the distinctive appeal of Santa Fe, “The City Different.” Priding itself on its unique mix of the traditional and the modern, the nation’s oldest capital continues to be one of the top tourist destinations in the U.S. Cross-cultural fusion in the world of food and delicacies is the theme of the Museum of International Folk Art’s new exhibition—New World Cuisine: The Histories of Chocolate, Maté y Mas (December 9-January 4). Another “fusion” event is Christmas at the Palace (December 7), as Native, Spanish and Anglo traditions are woven together to form a tapestry of song and storytelling. The beloved new kid on the block—the Second Annual Winter Fiesta (January 27-February 5)—is a ten-day event showcasing a treasure-trove of art, music, cuisine and shopping. If you want to behold the divine in motion, nearby Pueblos— Picuris, Nambe, Ohkay
www.hawk-media.com
Owingeh, Santa Clara—hold their ceremonial dances and celebrations on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day.
Enchantment times two Two of the resort towns— Angel Fire and Red River, which are part of the 110-mile loop known as the Enchanted Circle (also including Taos, Eagle Nest, and Questa) — flaunt laid-back charm and winter-friendly dispositions. Named after the flame-throwing sunsets which transform the mountain peaks into pinnacles of eye-catching beauty, Angel Fire is rated as one of the top family ski areas in the Southern Rockies. To zip … or not to zip? Tube … or not tube? These are questions you can ask yourself as you weigh your pastime options, which include the only zipline in the state, the Polar Coaster (the biggest tubing park in the Southern Rockies), skiing (day and night); snowboarding, sleighing, snowblading, horseback riding, ice fishing and more. If you happen to be in the area February 8-10, you’ll have the unique option of planting your fanny in a steel shovel and shuttling high-speed down the mountain to compete in the Angel Fire Shovel Race Championships. Speaking of shovels, back in the day, they, along with pick-axes, were tools of the
trade for prospectors who did their ambitious digging in the gold-mining town of Red River. Nowadays, Silverado, Gold Rush and Lucky Strike refer to the dynamic ski runs that grace the mountain. The ski base is accorded royal treatment, located right in the center of town, and starting on December 31, most Saturday nights will feature torchlight parades and fireworks. Country western legend Michael Martin Murphey is beloved in a town known for its Texas-tinted flair, and he will be performing two special shows at the Motherlode Saloon: Cowboy Christmas Show (December 28-30) and Cowboy New Year’s Eve Ball (December 31).
Favorable elements Nestled within the sprawling San Juan National Forest, and surrounded by the majestic San Juan Mountains, is the mineral-rich oasis known as Pagosa Springs. “Pagoash” is the Southwestern Ute word for “healing waters,” and a soak in the springs means tonic for mind, muscles and spirit. If you want to take to the trails in winter-inspired fashion, cross country skiing, snowshoeing and skate skiing is the way to do it. Reservoir Hill, Pagosa Springs Golf Course, West Fork Nordic Trails, and Coyote Hill Nordic Loops feature groomed trails, free of charge. In Durango, purgatory is a preferred destination and/or
state of existence. The 10,822 foot high ski area Purgatory at Durango Mountain Resort, along with the 8,800 foot Hesperus Ski area, boasts 35,000 acres of mountain terrain on which skiers and snowboarders can make their mark. And when you want to sit back, relax and become a passenger, hitch a ride on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, which will be offering a Polar Express sight-seeing trip (November 19-December 28). One of Colorado’s newest towns, and a growing tourist and recreation area, South Fork marks the beginning of the Silver Thread National Scenic Byway. This historic route follows the snake-like Rio Grande to its headwaters in the San Juan Mountains. Amidst nearly two million acres of national forest, South Fork’s winter agenda includes horseback riding, ice fishing, Nordic and downhill skiing, hunting, hiking, snowmobiling and more. —John Biscello resides in Taos, NM, and is the author of Broken Land: A Brooklyn Tale, and Freeze Tag.
15
“THE LONE RANGER” – Johnny Depp and Armie Hammer. ©Disney Enterprises, Inc. & Jerry Bruckheimer Inc.
O
ur fascination with movies begins when we are young, and for most never completely disappears. They transport us, they awe us, they inspire us and they linger somewhere in our subconscious, much after the final credits have faded. With the dramatic landscapes and seemingly unending abundance of light and sky, filmmakers have flocked to New Mexico, just as painters and photographers have. Recent special effects driven hits such as Transformers (2007), Thor (2011) and The Avengers (2012) have brought much publicity to the state as a cinematographer’s dream. The origins of the region’s filmmaking, though, were much humbler. Generally considered as the first “movie” filmed in the American West, Indian Day School was made by none other than Thomas A. Edison in 1898, when New Mexico was still a territory. The short soundless clip depicts a group of school children in a Pueblo16
style schoolhouse located at Isleta Pueblo, just south of Albuquerque. New Mexico’s untamed and majestic vistas paired with the brave souls who inhabited these wild lands, became the underlying theme for early filmmakers. The famed outlaw
movie making history. Billy the Kid (1930) was shot in Gallup; The Left-Handed Gun (1958) was filmed in Santa Fe with Paul Newman taking the lead, and finally Young Guns was shot in Cerrillos in 1988 with Emilio Estevez playing The Kid, this time filmed in full color.
Nicholson contained scenes from Taos, and was said to be a generational touchstone. Other generations were touched by the likes of Red Dawn (1984) filmed primarily in Las Vegas and the controversial and violent road trip epic Natural Born Killers (1994) with its infamous wedding scene filmed on the Rio Grand Gorge Bridge near Taos. New Mexico movies truly run the gamut in both genre and quality. Critically acclaimed films such as 21 Grams (2003), No Country for Old Men (2007), and True Grit (2010) continue to impress worldwide audiences; while MacGruber (2010) was but a dud. Certain movies simply needed to be made locally, such as The Milagro Beanfield War (1988), filmed in the quintessential Northern New Mexican community of Truchas. And occasionally there is a selection from one of Hollywood’s most feared
“THE LONE RANGER” – Johnny Depp as Tonto. ©Disney Enterprises, Inc. & Jerry Bruckheimer Inc.
William Henry McCarty Jr., known also as Billy the Kid, would prove to be a perfect subject. The previously unknown gunman gained legitimate notoriety when New Mexico Governor Lew Wallace put a price on his head; the rest was the stuff of legends as well as
With hundreds of movies filmed in New Mexico, the Western theme has not been replaced, but enhanced and expanded and now encompasses nearly all genres. The counterculture motorcycle epic Easy Rider (1969) starring Peter Fonda, Dennis Hopper and Jack
categories – an outstanding book made into a rather poor movie; All the Pretty Horses (2000) nailed that one. The latest movie to be filmed in New Mexico, as well as Colorado, Utah and California is The Lone Ranger. The Disney production stars Armie Hammer SKICOUNTRY 2013
as the Lone Ranger. He is known primarily for his portrayal of both Winklevoss twins in David Fincher’s film The Social Network (2010) which chronicled the creation of Facebook. Hammer is overshadowed by one of modern film’s most successful cinematic trio: actor Johnny Depp, producer Jerry Bruckheimer and director Gore Verbinski. Restrained only by a gargantuan $250 million budget and a rumored release date of June 2013, the phrase “summer blockbuster” comes to mind. Gregor “Gore” Verbinski started his film career with music videos of punk rockers before directing The Mexican (2001), The Ring (2002) and Rango (2011). He also directed the three Pirates of the Caribbean films. Jerry Bruckheimer is undeniably one of the most successful film producers of all time; his first big hit was the 1983 romantic drama Flashdance. He made it successfully through the 80s with Beverly Hills Cop (1984) and Top Gun (1986); then survived the next decade with Bad Boys (1995), The Rock (1986), Con Air (1997), Enemy of the State (1998) and Armageddon (1998), before dabbling in television and producing the CSI: Crime Scene Investigation dramas and their spinoffs. TV did not slow Bruckheimer down as he continued to produce blockbusters such as Remember the Titans (2000), Gone in 60 Seconds (2000) Black Hawk Down (2001) and Pearl Harbor (2001) before producing The Pirates of the Caribbean films. John Christopher “Johnny” Depp II may be the most recognizable actor of his www.hawk-media.com
disney shoots LONE RANGER
“THE LONE RANGER” – Photo: Peter Mountain. ©Disney Enterprises, Inc. & Jerry Bruckheimer Inc.
generation. After working in television on the hit 80s series 21 Jump Street, he took several secondary roles in Nightmare on Elm Street (1984) and Platoon (1986) before starring in Tim Burton’s Edward Scissorhands (1990). His extensive filmography is staggering and includes What’s Eating Gilbert Grape (1993), Fear and Loathing in Las Vegas (1998), Blow (2001), and Charlie and the Chocolate Factory (2005), and many, many others. He stars as Captain Jack Sparrow in The Pirates of the Caribbean films. Depp will now portray Tonto, the Lone Ranger’s Native American sidekick in the upcoming film. Depp was recently adopted by LeDonna Harris, a member of the Comanche Nation during a ceremony in Albuquerque.
He was given the Comanche name of “Mah Woo May,” which means shapes shifter and considers himself to be part Native American. The small mountain community of Angel Fire was stunned for the month of August 2012 as hundreds of staff and tons of equipment set up camp to film scenes for The Lone Ranger. As far as Beatlemania was a real phenomenon and Bieber Fever exists, the Depp Effect transformed rational golfers, bikers and fishermen into awestruck and obsessed fans. The familiar small talk at the post office no longer centered around the monsoon rains and the geese on hole #9, but on the filming of The Lone Ranger. The locals became experts on all things Depp, and Johnny Depp sightings were as common as
seeing marauding prairie dogs evading truck tires. “My cousin said she saw Johnny Depp buying cigs at the Mini Mart last night.” “No way, it must have been his stunt double. I hear Johnny Depp doesn’t smoke.” “You are just plain crazy, Johnny Depp doesn’t have a double … Johnny Depp does ALL his own stunts.” The Lone Ranger was a fictional former Texas Ranger, who wore a mask to disguise his identity and would fight injustice with his companion Tonto in the American West. Whether this revival can be parleyed into cinematic money maker on the other hand, is up to the modern moviegoer to decide. Michael Johnstone lives and writes in Angel Fire. 17
STAY. SKI. SAVE.
SKI & BIKE SHOP
Skis & Snowboards Rentals & Sales Winter Apparel Online Reservations
575.377.1010
48 North Angel Fire Rd. Angel Fire, NM www.aftrailhead.com info@aftrailhead.com
North Country BOOK 3 NIGHTS OF LODGING AND GET THE 4TH NIGHT, PLUS 2 ADULT LIFT TICKETS FREE.* AVAILABLE JANUARY 1 - MARCH 2, 2013
Call 1-800-545-9011 or visit skiapache.com
Real Estate
Stan Samuels, Qualifying Broker
Slopeside Condos… Ski-In, Ski-Out
SKI RUN CONDO A2 MLS #87691
*Offer code: SEASON. Free offers must be used consecutively with original booking. Tax and resort fee extra. Rain checks are not allowed. Upgrades are available for an additional charge. Not available to groups or attendees. One offer per visit. May not be combined with other offers. Must be 21 or over to reserve room. No pets allowed. Management reserves all rights.
Luxury Mountain Homes • Condos • Cabins Vacation Rentals & Sales NM 434 & Halo Pines Terrace, Angel Fire, NM 575.377.6651 cell 575.447.6295 AboutNorthCountry.com 18
SKICOUNTRY 2013
kids love Fun.
parents love free. • 2 0 M I L E S S O U T H O F TA O S •
Our philosophy is to be the most family-friendly resort in the Rockies, and we cater to every budget by offering FREE lift tickets, FREE lessons for first-time skiers and snowboarders, FREE lodging* and more.
FIRST To OpEN
WWW.SIPAPUNM.COM 800-587-2240
last to close * Available on select dates. See www.SipapuNM.com
www.hawk-media.com
19
Durango •
• South Fork • Pagosa Springs
PURGATORY AT DURANGO
WOLF CREEK SKI AREA
CO LO R A D O NEW MEXICO Red River •
Chama •
RED RIVER SKI AREA
• Eagle Nest
SKI THE SOUTHWEST
Y
ENCHANTED FOREST XC
TAOS SKI VALLEY
Angel • Fire
• Taos
ou can ride almost anywhere in the world. But nowhere in the world do you get our magical mix
of Southwestern sun and snow, culture and cuisine, wildlife and wilderness, art and history. The landscape
ANGEL FIRE RESORT
is stunning – from high alpine terrain above treeline to a huge rip in the earth. Our ski mountains rip – chutes, cliffs, bowls, cruisers, and in terrain parks – rails, boxes, rainbows, banks. Treks into the backcountry are beautiful and boss.
SIPAPU SKI RESORT
Outside our quaint mountain towns you’ll discover fresh pockets of adventure and feel this winter completely, utterly alive.
Santa Fe •
And at day’s end, when your thighs are screaming, slip into a hot tub or pound a big, honking green chile cheeseburger. Nothing like it anywhere. Scan individual QR codes with your Smartphone for information about each ski area. Map shows approximate locations. Distances are not to scale.
• Albuquerque
PHOTO: SCOTT D.W. SMITH / DMR
• Ruidoso
SKI APACHE 20
SKICOUNTRY 2013
21
TAOS SKI VALLEY Always terrific terrain, a monster rep for gnarly steeps and chutes, from hard-core skiers and new riders too, Taos Ski Valley is continuing with its ten-year master plan to build more facilities, lifts and carve new runs. A big focus this year is making the mountain and facilities more user-friendly to families and folks just starting out. New this year is the Pioneer beginner lift, ideal for first-timers, and the expanded tubing terrain on Strawberry Hill. And of course you can still find that holy grail of epic runs by hiking to hidden stashes a la the West Basin, never a shortage of freeride excitement. TSV’s Ernie Blake Snowsport School is still world-class, the terrain park is deluxe, and a shuttle runs daily from the Albuquerque airport. And TSV continues its commitment to keeping it green with mountain-wide recycling and energy conservation. Check out
ANGEL FIRE RESORT Back by popular demand,
arm band locators for real
Angel Fire’s way-fun zipline,
time tracking and for check-
the nation’s highest el-
ing out stats online later.
evation zip, returns for the
Hone up on skills with ski
winter, zippers flying 20
and board classes. Come
stories high. Just another
evening, terrain park rides
notch in Angel Fire’s belt,
and snow tubing, torchlight
joining downhill riding, cool
parades too. The Nordic
terrain parks, cross country
Center, at the awesome
and downhill skiing, tubing,
Country Club, now has 17
sleigh rides, snowmobiles,
km of groomed trails for visi-
snowshoeing. On the moun-
tors and high altitude athletic
tain, C-4, an out-of-bounds
training, skaters or classic
black diamond 15 minutes
style, and snowshoers, even
out, is also back by popular
a sledding hill. Also moon-
demand. And kids in ski
light, nature and gourmet
school this year get GPS
tours. Events online: angelfireresort.com 800-633-7463
the interactive trail map online. skitaos.org 866-968-7386 22
SKICOUNTRY 2013
RED RIVER SKI AREA This place just keeps adding cool stuff. Last year – more snowmaking, live cams, chalet improvements, better terrain park action. This year – chalet upgrades, new rental gear, e-commerce website, snow coach dinner tours, new snow cat and more snow guns. Skiers and riders this year can buy tickets from the e-commerce website, print out the barcode and give it to the ski techs to scan and get you geared up. Or check out the 24-hour ticket kiosks. Last year’s evening snowmobile tours are upgrading to heated snow coach rides to the Tip Restaurant for dinner. Ski and snowboard programs are available for kids and adults. After riding, there’s tubing, evening rail jams and torchlight parades.
ENCHANTED FOREST XC Getting on the night trail is
the freestylers. Snowshoe?
easy stuff at New mexico’s
Old growth forests, aspen
oldest full-service cross-
groves, wildlife – a cool
country ski and snowshoe
nature trek. Warm up with
area, Enchanted Forest, a
a snack at the hut where
few miles east of Red River.
you can rent the stuff you
Cross Country? Over 33
need. Group and individual
km (600 acres) of prime
lessons. Open Nov-March
forest groomed 12 foot wide
9 am-4:30 pm. Got a dog?
tracks for traditional skiing
Bring ‘em on. Five km
and a wide skate lane for
of trails are dog-friendly. Need a night? How about a mountain yurt? Midweek is easier to book. Events on the web:
enchantedforestxc.com 800-966-9381 575-754-6112
Events on the web: redriverskiarea.com 575-754-2233
www.hawk-media.com
23
SIPAPU RESORT Northern New Mexico’s oldest ski resort – turning 60 last year – Sipapu started over 10 years ago a plan to carve out great tree terrain. Winding down the mountain,
SKI APACHE Mescalero, New Mexico’s
plenty of programs for the
Ski Apache – the country’s
family – kids and adults,
southernmost ski resort –
even mixtures of the two
offers bumps, bowls, cruis-
with the popular Mom And
ers, a terrain park and the
Me and Dad And Me pro-
only slopeside gondola in
grams. Or you can kick it on
the state. Touted as the
a trikke or rip down the
best warm-weather powder
tubing hill. Boasting over
capital in North America, Ski
300 days of sunshine each
Apache sprawls out under
year. You can even take
the 12,000-plus foot peak
a break and hit the slot
of Sierra Blanca. The Snow
machines slopeside in The
Sport Learning Center has
Lodge. Events online: skiapache.com 575-464-3600
intertwined with groomed cruisers, glade skiing is getting bigger and better. These days, 11 of the resort’s 41 trails are glade runs off Lift 4, close to Sipapu’s peck of 9,255 feet. Check out Wormwood or down mountain Chopos Trees or Indecision. President’s Day weekend, Sipapu sculpts out of snow and ice its snow castle playground – two stories high, tunnels, slides, stairs, even oldtimers chase kids around the castle. With an average of over 300 days of sunshine, it’s trademark Southwest sun skiing. sipapunm.com 800-587-2240
24
SKICOUNTRY 2013
WOLF CREEK SKI AREA
PHOTO: SCOTT D.W. SMITH / COURTESY DMR
DURANGO MTN. RESORT
Known each year for the
full-service bar, opens on the
most snow in Colorado, last
top level of Raven’s Nest, a
year Wolf Creek kicked it off
cool glass-lined restaurant
with a 46-inch storm open-
serving pizza at the top of
ing its earliest ever, October
the Raven lift. Also new this
8 – a great start ending with
year kick it at the Conti-
close to 400 inches. And it’s
nental espresso bar, left of
always magical riding. When
Treasure chairlift. Group and
you get this kind of pow,
private lessons for riders
For this winter season,
safety is numero uno. Ava-
of all levels and ages. Free
Mountain Resort is a unique
Durango Mountain Resort
lanche control and reduc-
parking and free shuttles.
blend of roller-coaster
has teamed up with iconic
tion is always a key focus;
And like they’ve done for
benches and headwalls,
ski manufacturer, Rossignol,
this year two more Gazex
years, 100 percent of its
steep tree skiing trails and
to provide break-through
exploders, one in Horseshoe
energy comes from a wind
Purgatory at Durango
wide-open cruisers with
technology to skiers. The
Bowl, one on Knife Ridge
power source, winter
stunning views. In 2008,
Rossignol Experience
– have been added, along
and summer.
Durango Mountain Resort
Center provides all levels
with a new Piston Bully 400
began a 4-year span of
of skiers, from beginner to
Cat. Raven’s Roost, a new
unprecedented growth in
advanced, with the latest
the resort’s history, adding
technology in skis from the
Purgatory Lodge, a $50
Experience line.
million investment and new
Check out events online:
anchor to the base village.
skipurg.com
Over the past few years,
800-525-0892
wolfcreekski.com 970-264-5649 1-800-SKI-WOLF
Purgatory expanded expert terrain by 35% with new steep, gladed-tree skiing on the front- and back-side, more grooming equipment and enhanced snowmaking.
www.hawk-media.com
25
durango SKI TOWN
PHOTO: SVEN BRUNSO
A
veraging 260 inches of snow annually, Purgatory is known for consistent, dry powder from frequent storms, which are followed by sunny, bluebird days, creating perfect conditions for pure alpine nirvana. Purgatory features 1,360 acres of skiable terrain, 88 trails, 10 lifts, five terrain parks and a vertical drop of 2,029 feet. Purgatory at Durango Mountain Resort is located in the rugged San Juan Mountains in southwestern Colorado, and 25 miles north of historic downtown Durango. Known as a top, familyfriendly resort, Purgatory at Durango Mountain Resort offers terrain for all skiing
26
and riding abilities as well as a variety of activities for all ages, allowing families to spend quality time together. From scenic horse-drawn sleigh rides right from the base area, to the Snow Coaster Tubing Hill, guided snowshoeing tours, Nordic skiing, to snowmobiling and ice climbing, there’s plenty to do. In the base village, Purgy’s Restaurant offers a special kids menu as well as Creekside Italian Kitchen, which also provides a special child play area and features kid-friendly movies during the holiday season. Purgatory Lodge, a $50 million investment and new anchor to the base village, opened in 2008, offering luxury ski in/ski out accommodations, private club and game room, day spa, fitness center, outdoor heated pool, and fine-dining restaurant. Over the past few years, Purgatory expanded expert terrain by 35% with new steep, gladed-tree skiing on the frontand back-side, added high-angle grooming equipment, enhanced snowmaking abilities and initiated brush clearing from the slopes, making for a better early season ski experience. Purgatory also built new terrain parks, constructing bigger features including a half pipe.
For the 2012/2013 winter season, Durango Mountain Resort has teamed up with iconic ski manufacturer, Rossignol, to provide break-through technology to skiers. The Rossignol Experience Center provides all levels of skiers, from beginner to advanced, with the latest technology in skis from the Experience line. The Purgatory Ski School has also been trained by Rossignol to incorporate the Experience technology into their lesson programs, thereby minimizing the learning curve and getting skiers out enjoying the entire mountain quicker than ever. Also located at Durango Mountain Resort is the United States’ largest snowcat operator, the San Juan Skiing Company, which taps into 35,000 acres of incredible backcountry skiing and riding. Durango Mountain Resort is the ideal basecamp for experiencing all that Southwestern Colorado has to offer, including a vibrant and friendly mountain town with more restaurants per capita than San Francisco, four local craft breweries, galleries, shops and boutiques, museums and more. Steeped in rich history, visitors to the area can take a ride back in time on the Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad, or experience Mesa Verde National Park and Chimney Rock National Monument. www.skipurg.com
SKICOUNTRY 2013
GREAT SKIING AND THE PERFECT PLACE TO UNWIND AND RELAX Enjoy world class skiing at Durango Mountain Resort. Ski packages provide the best value for the ski season with discounted lift tickets combined with discounted guest room rates. Enjoy the convenience of skipping the lines and picking up your lift tickets when you check in to the hotel. And of course, you'll get a warm chocolate chip cookie to welcome you, as well as our stellar service throughout your stay.
501 Camino Del Rio, Durango, CO 81301 T (970) 259 6580 DoubleTree.com Hilton HHonors membership, earning of Points & Miles and redemption of points are subject to HHonors Terms and Conditions. ©2012 Hilton Worldwide
STAY & SKI PACKAGE $89 Book Now: 800.245.4466
! Stay SKI! RIO GRANDE INN Durango, CO
BWRioGrandeInn.com
DURANGO MOUNTAIN RESORT
DurangoMountainResort.com Cascade Canyon Winter Train November 21, 2012 - May 3, 2013
What’s your story?
The Polar Express
November 26-December 28, 2012
Video’s hot. Ask us about Storyline™ video.
New Year’s Day Brunch Train
Reserve your ad space in HighCountry 2013
Snowdown Balloon Rally Train
www.hawk-media.com
January 1, 2013 February 2
575.595.0575
Visit our Web site for more upcoming events, packages and special offers!
www.hawk-media.com
(888)872-4607 www.durangotrain.com DSNGRR_SkiCountry.indd 1
11/15/12 27 10:18 AM
hot springs & cold spots TAKING THE WATERS
PHOTO: COURTESY OJO CALIENTE MINERAL SPRINGS & RESORT
W
ho doesn’t long for water? Especially the essential luxury of hot water on a cold winter’s day, with snowflakes falling on your face while you soak in an outdoor 103.5-degree pool (my personal favorite temperature). But since I’m a Methodist/hedonist, I prefer to earn my comforts first. Here is my perfect fantasy day: First thing in the morning, the ski patrol drops the gate, opening the awesomely steep tree run called Pierre’s at Taos Ski Valley where I teach. I get to make first tracks in two feet of new powder. Afterwards, I teach a private lesson – gotta work for a living – to a student wanting to ski powder who afterwards leaves me a great tip because, after all, enthusiasm is contagious. Later, I head for the nearest hot springs, which in this case is Ojo Caliente, about 45 minutes from Taos. First things first, though: dinner at their restaurant – I 28
to the hot springs for millennia. Native Americans held the springs sacred and as legend has it, believed they emerged into have a glass of Chianti then this world from such places. settle in for that relaxing Which makes perfect sense. massage. After this, I slip like a The water, after being held poached egg into the outdoor deep in the earth is eventually mineral pool, feeling magically delivered hot and health-giving, ten pounds lighter because, after laden with minerals. How well all, water is indeed miraculous, cared for we all are! buoying us up materially and Europeans too have a long metaphorically. I float blissfully tradition of “taking the waters.” and watch the glowing Orion The state often paid for people and his followers migrate across to travel to the baths to recupthe star-drenched sky. It is just erate from various maladies. The another simple New Mexico Romans built their first public night, graced by the scent of baths in 12 BC – a good strategy pine minerals. Embryonically for satisfying the masses and safe and warm, I never wanna quelling rebellion. come out. They can’t make me. Not all hot springs listed This fantasy is not a lie. You here are spa-like and luxurycan head to one of the many laden. Some wonderful spots hot springs right after outdoor in northern New Mexico and fun. I tell my students, who Colorado include some “hippie often come for six mornings hot springs,” too. You don’t have of ski week lessons, to take a to be a hippie to appreciate day off – technique be hanged. them, but if you want a massage, “Head for the hot springs – get you will have to bring your own a massage, and you’ll come masseuse. Some are not easy to back renewed,” I say. After they get to, which is also a part of the are chilled out and blissed out, charm. Water isn’t guaranteed they avoid the midweek slump to arrive between 90 and 130 and are reborn. After all, life degrees, which commercial is more than just technique – I spots do quite predictably. But want them to have the larger the value of fresh perspectives experience of northern New from the natural springs is Mexico’s nature and culture, immeasurable. Nature offers which after all, are intertwined. surprises, like a canyon wren So I’ve paired some of my singing from a cliff at full favorite hot spots with some of moonrise. Sometimes the Rio my favorite cold spots. It’s like Grande goes wild, for example, pairing Chateaubriand with reclaiming her own and washing a bottle of, say, ‘62 Chateau out the warm pools. Lafitte-Rothschild. Like I would The many natural springs are know. But I do know many of untamed and unmaintained, like these ski areas and hot springs. Manby Hot Springs (also known Both Nordic and Alpine as Stagecoach Hot Springs) or skiing may be relatively modern Black Rock, both along the Rio but humans have been coming Grande near Taos. Daytime skies SKICOUNTRY 2013
are just as blue and night stars just as many. Such visits have helped me to press the reset button on my crazy life while waiting or the next miracle to come along – like winning the lottery or getting first tracks on Pierre’s. The real miracle is that such places as these exist at all, elemental and comforting, reminding us that life’s not only worth living, it’s worth celebrating. OJO CALIENTE Einstein soaked here. It doesn’t take a genius to know that soaking and sunning feel great. Water bubbles up, hot and heady from the various springs: Lithia, iron, soda, and arsenic. One of the country’s oldest hot springs brought others: Cabaza de Vaca, Utes, Comanches and Navajos were drawn here by the water. The Puebloan people established a pueblo, Poseuinge, and people slowly drifted in from all over global tarnation. The 1880s-era bathhouse still stands, but the place has gone upscale to include newer lodging with private pools. In winter the largest public pool is covered. Hiking trails have been expanded, too; take a super scenic hike before taking the waters. Ski areas less than an hour or two by car away include Santa Fe, Taos Ski Valley, Angel Fire, Red River, and Sipapu. Take your ski lift ticket for a discount. TEN THOUSAND WAVES This Japanese health resort is over the top, even for Santa Fe. There are more www.hawk-media.com
than a hundred therapists on staff – no, not for any mental problems – which will evaporate into the ethers here. The menu of treatments includes everything from aromatherapy and acupuncture to Watsu and too many Zen amenities to mention. Make your reservation, don a kimono, watch the koi swim in gorgeous pool and choose from every combination of inside/outside, cold/hot, public/ private that will leave you to meditate on the paradox of Zen decadence. I pray they will add a service (litters, anyone?) to carry loose-as-awet-noodle clients back down to the parking lot. I envision the Japanese lanterns lighting my way, my skin glowing from aesthetic treatments. But it’s probably wiser to stay in the romantic and elegant lodging, especially if you’ve just come off the slopes from the nearby Santa Fe Ski Area. Who says you can’t have it all? PAGOSA SPRINGS For Norteños, this is an endof-season ritual to rejuvenate après ski season and to escape mud season. It’s a just-farenough away destination and the mountains are as gorgeous as it gets. The town of Pagosa Springs is sweet, with friendly cafés, coffee shops, and antique stores. I like to stay in the Springs Resort Hotel at the Springs Resort and Spa post-ski season and take piles of books to read when I’m too wrinkled to cruise the pools. Their names reveal their natures: Waterfall, The Cliff, Lobster Pot, and The Sunset Social Club. Continued on page 31
Ski TSV,
Après at Ojo
After an exhilarating day on the slopes, soak your bones in Ojo’s steamy, soothing hot springs.
20% Off Skier’s Special Bring your lift ticket or season pass from any NM Ski Resort and receive 20% off Springs’ entry or lodging. Valid 7 days a week, excluding holidays through 4/30/12. One discount per lift ticket/pass. Not to be combined with any other offer. Lodging includes Springs’ access.
Sulfur-free Mineral Springs • Full-service Spa Private Outdoor Pools w/fireplaces Enchanting Lodging • Restaurant & Wine Bar
Call 505.583.2233 or visit ojospa.com for lodging and spa packages. ojocaliente 37 miles SW of Taos via paved Rim Road/285.
29
Step Back Into the 1850s at Taos’ Oldest Museum
K it Carson Home & Museum Guided Tours Historic Gift Shop and Bookstore
575 -758- 4945
113 Kit Carson Rd. Taos, NM 87571 Open Daily Year-Round (except major holidays) Winter Hours: 11 am–4 pm ~ November through February group rates available
www.KitCarsonHomeAndMuseum.com
Simply the best liquor store in NM
Competitive Prices Largest Selection • Friendly Staff Temperature-Controlled Wine Cellar
505.455.2219
kokoman@cybermesa.com 34 Cities of Gold Road, Pojoque, NM 87506 Hwy 84-285, Pojoaque, NM 12 miles N. of Santa Fe OVER 3,500 Wines • 900 Beers • 230 Vodkas 222 Tequilas • 105 Single Malt Scotches • 136 Rums 30
SKICOUNTRY 2013
And as for skiing, nearby Wolf Creek is awesome. Last season they opened in early October. TRIMBLE HOT SPRINGS Trimble Spa and Natural Hot Springs, has always been part of the town’s lifestyle. And back during the first half of the 20th century, Trimble was a popular dance hall and dude ranch where the likes of Marilyn Monroe and Clark Gable once played. Trimble is sought out by the off-thebeaten-track kind of skiers looking for a savings and a quiet place along the way, but not in the way. My kids used to love this one. What kid wouldn’t? There’s an Olympicsized outdoor heated swimming pool with plenty space for them to free-range, while you
retreat to quieter mineral-rich pools. There’s a workout room, snack bar, and a place for small conferences and weddings. The nearby Nordic and alpine ski spot here is Durango Mountain Resort, which used to be called Purgatory, but I think of it as a personal heaven. Mount Princeton Hot Springs Last fall my partner and I packed heartily for a weekend camping trip to the Colorado Rockies and climbed a good way up one of the myriad “fourteeners,” Mt. Princeton in the Collegiate Range. From 12,000 feet, the blue pools of Mt. Princeton Hot Springs below looked like a string of jewels set in green grass, impossibly luxuriant. I was sore and tired: those pools
beckoned. The next day, the aspens that burst into bright gold flame against lapis skies looked every bit as lovely from the pools as they did from the peaks. Suffice to say that the camping gear never made it out of the truck. This remote and beautiful spot is still not far from Buena Vista and Salida. It lies along the Chalk River, and sponsors a cheerful medley that includes everything from hip weddings, family pools, elegant Sunday brunches and upscale adult spa areas. It’s fun to step out of the hot springs into the creek itself and snuggle into the hot spots between rocks. Monarch Mountain Ski Area is right down the road, not to mention lots of Nordic options.
HIPPIE HOT SPRINGS You don’t have to be a hippie to enjoy the many non-managed hot springs native to the geologically gifted and Rio Grande-rifted Southwest. Try Manby (aka Stagecoach) or Blackrock near Taos. Some hot springs, like Conundrum outside Aspen, are truly fabulous, but big adventuresome treks. I’ve heard of folks getting stuck there, who were perhaps literally saved by the hot water. Two books to check out: Carl Wambach’s Touring Colorado Hot Springs or Matt Bischoff’s Touring New Mexico Hot Springs. Or check at regional Forest Service and BLM offices for natural sites. Dr. Michele Potter teaches American Studies at UNM Taos and skiing at Taos Ski Valley.
Durango’s Only Natural Hot Springs, Day Spa, & Lodging Resort
GET THERMAL. GET THERMAL.
Heated Year-Round Outdoor Pool • Lodge Sleeps 5 Fully Equipped Kitchen • Couple’s Getaway Pkgs. Massage Therapy & Body Treatments
Trimble
970.247.0111
Spa & Natural Hot Springs
www.TrimbleHotSprings.com 6475 County Rd. 203, Durango, CO 81301
OUT…GEOThERMaLSTYLE. STYLE. ThawThaw OUT…GEOThERMaL
OPEN YEaR ROUND OPEN YEaR ROUND
the natural wonder of our odorless hot springs. Enjoy Experience Experience the natural wonder of our odorless hot springs. Enjoy
Swim Passes Available to the Public.
one of our well-appointed cabins or wake up to magnificent views
15870 County Road 162 | Nathrop, CO 81236
one of our well-appointed 15870 County for Road 162information. | Nathrop, CO 81236 from our cozy guestcabins rooms. or wake up to magnificent views Call 719.395.2447 more Your secluded mtprinceton.com from our cozy guest rooms. mountain sanctuary awaits. Call 719.395.2447 for more information.
Your secluded mountain sanctuary awaits. MSR010 Get Thermal Flyer v1.indd 1
MSR010 Get Thermal Flyer v1.indd 1
www.hawk-media.com
Swim Passes Available to the Public.
the 100˚ soaking pool and the 90˚ lap pool. Wind down fireside in
the 100˚ soaking pool and the 90˚ lap pool. Wind down fireside in
mtprinceton.com 12/22/11 9:55 AM
12/22/11 9:55 AM
31
SK I AVAPACK ILA AGE BLE S !
3
4
e
ACTION-PACKED SNOWMOBILE TOURS
Come Ride With Us for Unforgettable Winter Fun!
CLOSEST HOTEL to WOLF CREEK SKI AREA!
3
Lodge Rooms 8 Cabins with Fireplaces Complimentary Hot Breakfast 8 3 Hot Tubs & Sauna Wireless Internet 8 Cable TV w/HBO Situated on 15 acres with Private Pond Pets Welcome 8 Guest Laundry
0
Call or Click to Make Reservations Today:
800-862-3707 970-264-4181 www.HighCountryLodge.com
6
3821 Highway 160 East, Pagosa Springs, CO 81147 2.5 miles East of Pagosa Springs on Hwy 160
Book a tour with us and save 10% off your stay at Quality Inn
SNOWMOBILE TOURS
CALL or CLICK to BOOK YOUR WINTER ADVENTURE TODAY!
Ride with the Pack 970.731.4141 www.WolfCreekSnowmobile.com 3505 W. Hwy. 160 Pagosa Springs, CO
1 & 2 Bdrm fully-equipped modern cabins with room to roam on 10 ac. bordered by the San Juan River. Close to Town: Hot Springs, Wolf Creek, Nat. Forest
888-264-9204
www.firesidecabins.com firesideinn@skywerx.com 1600 E Hwy 160 Pagosa Springs CO
32
SKICOUNTRY 2013
blast into THE BACKCOUNTRY
T
he original snowmobiles at the beginning of the 20th century were more like tractors on tracks: large, cumbersome, powerful, slow machines. They were practical, designed to haul heavy stuff and get around in tough terrain. Today’s sleds are sleek, high-powered and fast, with shocks and comfort features designed more for fun, thrills and zipping around. Northern New Mexico and southern Colorado have hundreds of miles of trails venturing into high altitudes,
www.hawk-media.com
Photo: courtesy Wolf Creek Snowmobile Tours
vast meadows, and forests. Snowmobile clubs and outfitters groom some trails, but leave others untouched for powder hounds. Carson National Forest has a sprawling trail system around Angel Fire and Taos. Red River riders head to Bobcat Pass, Sawmill, Greenie Peak and Midnight Meadows. Chama riders regularly hit Brazos and Hopewell Lake. Across the border in Colorado, there’s Wolf Creek Pass, Turkey Springs, Plumtaw, Porcupine, East Fork and Nipple
Mountain, and The Rio Grande and San Juan National Forests. Check with the Forest Service for up-to-date trail conditions. Guides have plenty of backcountry expertise and usually offer hourly and full-day tours. Don’t forget the camera. This year, Jan. 25-27, South Fork will host the Colorado Snowmobile Association annual convention. Up to 150 riders from around the state will head into the Rio Grande National Forest on 255 miles of trails. www.southfork.org
33
CHINOOK LODGE & SMOKEHOUSE
Winter wonderland for everyone!
800.621.6512
Wi Fi Hot Tub Authentic Log Cabins with
RiverBend-Resort.com
•
cabins with fireplaces 15 MILES to wolf creek DISCOUNT LIFT TICKETS hot tub wi-fi SLEDDING
Full Kitchens & Fireplaces Lodging Ski Packages with LIFT TICKETS to Wolf Creek Ski Area
888.890.9110 www.ChinookLodge.net
Doc’s Outdoor Sports “Your Prescription for Outdoor Fun!“
• Snowboard
F FU RESH DG E!
docsoutdoor.com docs@docsoutdoor.com
Hwy 160, South Fork, CO 81154 719 873 5151
South Fork, CO 81154
Enjoy Our Full Bar
“Best place to eat in South Fork!”
Barbecue, Burgers, Pizzas
•
& Ski Rentals • Hunting • Fishing • Camping • Outdoor Recreation & Sports Equipment • Outdoor Sportswear • T-Shirts • Hunting & Fishing Licenses
33846 W. Hwy 160
•
29666 W. Hwy 160 South Fork, Colorado
29411 U.S. Hwy 160 South Fork, CO 81154
719-873-0102
Colorado’s Rio Grande Country
%HVW 9DFDWLRQ 9DOXH LQ &RORUDGR :KLFK ZD\ ZLOO \RX WXUQ" :KLFK ZD\ ZLOO \RX WXUQ" Rio Grande Country has three wonderfully unique towns waiting for you...South Fork is only 18 miles from the “Most Snow In Colorado at Wolf Creek Ski Area, plus limitless snowmobile & nordic trails, sledding, ice skating and ice fishing for the whole family. Del Norte is the gateway to history and culture, featuring a new trail system, the Rio Grande County Museum, the newly restored Historic Windsor Hotel, plus many unique shops. Monte Vista Is home to the annual Crane Festival in March, and the Oldest Professional Rodeo in July. From agriculture to a wildlife refuge, golf course and Drive-In Movie Theater, there is something for everyone.
riograndecountry.com
34
SKICOUNTRY 2013
Furnished 2-Bedroom Log Cabins with Full Kitchens. Clean, Comfortable & Spacious! Wolf Creek Lift Tickets available with lodging
877.873.1443
lazybearcabins.com
UTE BLUFF LODGE Cabins & RV Park 800.473.0595 719.873.5595
stay@uteblufflodge.com 27680 US Hwy 160 South Fork, CO 81154
q
Coffeehouse & Café South Fork’s Only Coffeehouse Breakfast & Lunch 6 am-2 pm Full Espresso Bar • Great Food Warm, Friendly Service Cozy Atmosphere • Open 7 Days
e 719-873-5150
Located at the Y of 149 & 160, South Fork
BEST POWDER in colorado NewLY-RENOVATED KITCHENETTES Free Wi-Fi • Outdoor Hot Tubs STAY & SKI PACKAGES Extended Stay / Family rates Groups welcome! Pet friendly! All American Mountain Hospitality
719.873.1900
www.UteBluffLodge.com
YOUR BASE for FOREST, MOUNTAIN & RIVER FUN!
www.hawk-media.com
Feelin’ Good
31042 West Hwy 160 South Fork, Colorado
www.TheWolfCreekSkiLodge.com
35
DINING region’s most successful radio station KTAOS 101.9 FM and Luna 103.7 FM and features both breathtaking views and sprawling lawns, making it the best place to drink in the view. More at KTAOS.com
TAOS BENT STREET CAFE & DELI – 120 Bent Street, Taos, NM. 575-758-5787. A local favorite with menu selections to satisfy every palate. Served in a relaxed atmosphere featuring a year-round heated patio and outdoor terrace. Omelettes, eggs benedict, gourmet french toast, excellent sandwiches, creative salads and homemade soups and desserts. Daily specials, chicken or beef burrito and tamales plates. Vegetarian & vegan friendly. Open 7 days for breakfast, lunch, and Sunday brunch. DOC MARTIN’S RESTAURANT – 1/2 block N of Taos Plaza in The Historic Taos Inn, 575-758-1977. Fresh, fine dining in a casual, historic setting. Wine Spectator’s “Best Of” Award Of Excellence winner for 25 consecutive years. Chef “Zippy” White creates innovative Regional New American Cuisine using the freshest local ingredients, specializing in organic vegetables, meats
36
and fish, including favorites like buffalo, elk, trout. Delectable desserts. Lunch, dinner, Saturday and Sunday brunch. Reservations recommended. docmartinsrestaurant.com
GUADALAJARA GRILL – Two locations in Taos: Southside – 1384 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. 575-751-0063. Northside – 822 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. 575-737-0816. “Our secret sauce makes the difference!” Authentic Mexican food in New Mexico. Taos Seafood, Chile Rellenos, Azteca Quesadilla, Camarones a la Diabla, Ceviche and so much more. Beer, Wine, Agave Margaritas. Winter hours: Sun 10:30-8:30 pm. Fri-Sat 10:30 to 9 pm. Open 7 days a week. View full menu at guadalajaragrilltaos.com
ESKE’S BREW PUB and EATERY – 1/2 block southeast of Taos Plaza, 575758-1517. Kids’ menu, draft root beer. Great food, fun and handcrafted beers. Open for lunch on weekends and holidays. Dinner ‘til 9 pm weekdays, KTAOS SOLAR CEN10 pm weekends. Live music. TER – At the base of Taos eskesbrewpub.com Mountain, equidistant from Taos Ski Valley and the hisTHE GORGE – Taos toric town center: the perfect Plaza. Stop by The Gorge and destination for entertainment try some of our juicy burgers, year-round. In addition to a full hand-shaken margaritas, or bar and restaurant open 7 days fresh oysters. There is somea week, KTAOS is home to the thing for everyone in your largest events venue in Northfamily. Enjoy the Best Happy ern New Mexico. The venue Hour in Taos while sitting on our patio overlooking the Taos also serves as location to the Plaza. We feature TWO happy hours: Monday thru Friday 3-5:30 pm and again 9-10 pm.
TAOS PIZZA OUT BACK – 712 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. 575-758-3112. Voted “Best of Taos: Best Pizza” for 10 consecutive years. We start each morning with organic flour and fresh produce to create our acclaimed hand-rolled pizzas. Our reclaimed adobe abode is the perfect setting for fun, foam and feasting. Enjoy a unique Taos experience where the three local cultures relax and mingle with international travelers. Open daily 11 am. Voted “Best Pizza in Taos” for 2012. taospizzaoutback.com RICKY’S – Located 2 1/2 blocks south of Taos Plaza at 312 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. 575758-1156. A locals’ favorite. Serving breakfast, lunch, dinner all day. Great New Mexican and American dishes at family oriented prices. Kid’s menu available. 80% of our dishes available vegetarian. Dine in or take out. Open 7 days from 7 am to 8 pm.
RED RIVER CAPO’S CORNER – 110 Pioneer Road. 575-754-6297. Voted “Best of Taos” for Pizza! A true ristorante Italiano, Capo’s offers authentic Italian recipes, great prices and superior service. Menu also
SKICOUNTRY 2013
includes pizza, ribs, steaks, hamburgers and sandwiches. Beer and wine available. Enjoy family fun dining with great views. Carry out, banquet room facilities, pizza to go, kids’ menu. Reservations for large parties available. Hours: 11:30 - 2 pm lunch; 5-9 pm dinner. Espresso, cappuccino starting at 7 am. Free Internet WiFi. SUNDANCE – High Street at Copper King. 575-754-2971. Same great food, same great service. Celebrating our 39th year. Steaks, salads and excellent Mexican food. Great sopaipillas! Specials include: shrimp fajitas and quesadillas. Frozen wine Margaritas. Reservations welcome. Call for to-go orders. Open nightly at 5 pm.
ANGEL FIRE ANGEL FIRED PIZZA – Located on the second floor of the Mountain View mall (next to the Lowe’s Valley market). 575-377-2774. Voted “Best of Angel Fire.” We serve specialty pizzas, baked pastas, calzones, and salads all in a fun relaxed atmosphere. Gluten-free options are available. A wide selection of handcrafted beers and fine wines is available. Dine in or take out. Open Tues-Sun 3-9 pm. Daily Happy Hour. LEGENDS GRILL – Located on the second floor of The Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-377-4201. For the whole family. Proudly serving 1/2 lb. Angus beef burgers, sandwiches, salads, pastas, chicken fried steak and more. Great selection of craft beers on tap. Sports on the big screens! Open daily 4 pm-9 pm. THE COFFEE HOUSE – Located in the lobby of The Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-377-4234. Specialty coffees and freshly baked goods. Serving daily breakfast and lunch specials, sandwiches, salads & ice cream. Open daily 7 am-5 pm.
www.hawk-media.com
HATCHA’S GRILL – 3453 Mountain View Blvd., Suite D. 575-377-7011. Welcome home to the best of northern New Mexican cuisine. Three generations of authentic dishes, made fresh daily. From Breakfast Burritos, Grilled Avocado Appetizer, and Hatcha’s Smothered Enchiladas to the best Grilled Trout this side of the Pecos. Now offering chiles and salsas in a jar, from our kitchen to yours. SUNSET GRILL – 10 Five Springs Road across from Chile Express Chairlift. 575-377-6681. Serving breakfast Saturday and Sunday from 8 to 10:30 am. Burritos, pancakes, huevos rancheros and eggs benedict are available. Lunch menu includes appetizers, burgers, sandwiches, salads, fish & chips, homemade soups and chicken dishes. Dinner menu includes steaks, pasta, chicken and fish dinners. We have an extensive beer and wine list along with a full bar available. ELEMENTS at the COUNTRY CLUB – Located on the upper level of the Angel Fire Country Club. 575-3773055. Open to the public year-round. Enjoy mountain-view fine dining, great appetizers, a full bar and wine selection, private dining rooms and group event spaces. Restaurant is open Tuesday-Saturday 5 pm - 9 pm. Bar is open Tuesday-Saturday 4 pm - close.
x x
e
Q
‘the living room of Taos’
x
at the Historic Taos Inn
HAPPY HOUR Mon-Fri 4-6 pm
Premier Live Music Perfect Margaritas Famous Nachos
CIMARRON SAINT JAMES HOTEL – 17th and Collison in Cimarron. Reservations recommended. 575-376-2664. Come and enjoy our newly remodeled St. James Hotel! Our broad-based menu is prepared fresh daily. We have the best Mexican food and we are one of the best steak places in the Southwest. Homemade soups and desserts everyday! Come see our huge 1880s Western bar for a variety of fine wines, beers and cocktails. Breakfast buffet every day for $6.95! Open 7 days a week, 7am - 9 pm.
575 758 2233 AdobeBar.com 37
2012-2013 winter
CALENDAR jan
dec 1-31 Bargain Days, Red River 7 Tubing Begins, Taos Ski Valley 8-9 Snowshoe Race Clinic & Fun Run, Enchanted Forest XC 8-9 Nordic Races, Wolf Creek 8 Fun Race, Wolf Creek 8 Lighting of Ledoux St., Taos 9 Ongoing: Telemark Clinics, Wolf Creek 12 Red River Community Christmas Dinner 14 Angel Fire opens 15 Ongoing: Men’s Ski/Board Clinics, Wolf Creek Ski Area 15-16 Angel Fire Holiday Market, The Lodge, Angel Fire Resort 19-20 Purgatory Locals’ Day, Durango 21 Apache Star Racecourse opens, Ski Apache 21-22 Demo Days, Taos Ski Valley 22 17th Annual Brewmasters Festival, Taos Ski Valley 22 Dummy Gelunde Jump, Torchlight Parade, Ski Apache 22 Moonlight Ski & Snowshoe Tour, Enchanted Forest XC 23-24 Ski & Snowboard with Santa, most ski areas 24 Luminaria Ski Tour, Enchanted Forest XC Ski Area 24 Christmas Eve Torchlight parades & fireworks, all ski areas 24 Sipapu Christmas Eve Party 24 Christmas Eve Vespers, Taos Pueblo and Picuris Pueblos 24-25 Santa visits ski areas 25 Deer or Matachines Dance, Taos Pueblo (no cameras) 25 Luminaria Ski/Snowshoe Tour, Enchanted Forest XC 26 Deer Dance, San Juan Pueblo 27 Annual Race Camp, Red River 30 World Snowboard Day, Sipapu 31 New Year’s celebrations & torchlight parades, all ski areas
38
1 1 1
Turtle Dance, Taos Pueblo Polar Bear Plunge, Eagle Nest Ongoing winter Wednesdays: Tubing, Taos Ski Valley 5 USASA Goldrush Rail Jam Qualifier, Red River Ski Area 5 Ongoing Saturdays: Rail Jam & Torchlight Parades, Red River 5-6 Ski Bike Demo Days, Sipapu 5, 12, 26 Fun Race, Wolf Creek 6 Buffalo Dance, Taos Pueblo 6 King’s Day, Picuris Pueblo 6-11 Ski Race Week, Taos Ski Valley 6 Telemark Ski, Wolf Creek 7-13 College Days, Red River 8-9 Outlaw Snow Down, Wolf Creek 8 Ongoing: Senior Ski/Board Clinic, Wolf Creek 12 Terrain Park Competition, Ski Apache 12 Wood Ski Festival, Enchanted Forest XC 14-15 Red River Winter Carnival 19 Winterfest Celebration, Durango Mountain Resort 19 Vertical Challenge, Ski Apache 19 Ultimate Ski & Snowboard Challenge, Red River 19 Sisters on Snow Seminar, Ski Apache 19-20 Winter Carnival, Red River 19-21 Chama Chile Ski Classic 20 Martin Luther King Jr. Race, Wolf Creek 21-27 Home School Week, Red River 25-27 Big Ol’ Texas Weekend, Angel Fire 25-27 SheRide Women’s Snowboarding Clinic, Durango 26 Moonlight hike & campfire, Sipapu 26 Moonlight Ski & Snowshoe Dinner, Enchanted Forest XC 26 Terrain Park Competition, Ski Apache 26-27 USASA Snowboard Slalom and Giant Slalom, Red River 26-27 Low O2 Challenge Races, Enchanted Forest XC 28 United Way Day (lift discounts) Wolf Creek Ski Area 27 Telemark Ski Week, TSV 30-Feb 2 Winter Wine Festival, TSV
feb 2
Terrain Park Competition, Ski Apache 2-3 Ski Bike Festival, Sipapu 3 Superbowl Party, Legends Grill, Angel Fire Resort 7-10 Winterfest 2013, Pagosa Springs, CO 7-12 Mardi Gras in the Mountains, Red River Ski Area 9 Red Ball Express Fundraiser, Durango 8-10 Shovel Race Championship, Angel Fire Resort 12 Fat Tuesday, Taos Ski Valley 12 Mardi Gras Celebration, Durango 16 GPS Mileage Challenge, Ski Apache 16 Mogul / Steeps Camp, TSV 16-18 February Fun Fest, Sipapu 18 Ice Fishing Tournament, Eagle Nest Lake 21-24 IFSA North American Juniors at Taos Ski Valley 23 Heart to Heart Challenge Fun Race, Ski Apache 23 Moonlight hike and campfire, Sipapu 23 Women’s Snowboard Camp, Taos Ski Valley TBA SW Snow Kite Fest, Eagle Nest State Park 23 USASA Red River Rampage Slopestyle 23 Just Desserts Eat and Ski, Enchanted Forest XC 23 Fun Race, Wolf Creek Ski 23 Telemark Ski, Wolf Creek 24-30 Fun Race, College Day, Wolf Creek 27-28 Salomon Extreme Freeride Championships, Taos Ski Valley
info
mar 2 Telemark Camp, TSV 2, 9, 23 Fun Race, Wolf Creek 9 Spring Beer Festival, TSV 9 Ernie Blake’s Birthday Celebration, Taos Ski Valley 9 Black Diamond Telemark Festival, Sipapu 9-10 Hawaiian Days, Sipapu 9-24 Beach Weeks, Red River 16 Moguls / Steeps Camp, Taos 17 10th Annual Cardboard Derby, Sipapu 17 St. Patrick’s Day Celebration, Taos Ski Valley 22 Annual Ben Myers Ridge-aThon, Taos Ski Valley 22-24 Dog Days, Enchanted Forest XC Ski Area 23 Pond Skimming Contest, Sipapu 24 4th Annual Pond Skim, Red River Ski Area 24 Closing Day, Angel Fire 24 Closing Day, Red River 29 NM Jr. Freeride Championships, Taos Ski Valley 30 Telemark Ski, Wolf Creek 31 Easter Egg Scavenger Hunt, Sipapu 31 Easter Bunny visits Wolf Creek
apr 7 7 7 7
Fun Race, Ski & Board Clinics, Wolf Creek Bud Light Pond Skimming Championship, TSV Taos Ski Valley Closing Day Wolf Creek Closing Day
Dates subject to change. Check with local chambers for updated calendar information. Angel Fire 800-446-8117 Chama Valley 800-477-0149 Durango 970-247-3500 Eagle Nest 800-494-9117 Pagosa Springs 800-252-2204 Red River 800-348-6444
Ruidoso 877-784-3676 Santa Fe 800-777-2489 South Fork 800-571-0881 Taos County 800-732-8267 Taos Pueblo 575.758.1028
building fine homes for over 35 years
SHUTER CONSTRUCTION 575.377.6456 ph 575.377.3822 fx po box 303 angel fire nm 87710 shuterconstruction.com shuter@taosnet.com lic #90984