SkiCountry Winter 2013-2014
Angel Fire Chama Durango Pagosa Springs Taos Taos Ski Valley Red River Sipapu Ski Apache South Fork Wolf Creek
GUIDE TO SKIING THE SOUTHWEST
WINTER SPORTS CELEBRATING 40 YEARS We would like to extend a heartfelt Thank You to all our past and present generations of loyal customers. We certainly could not have done it without you. We are looking forward to an exciting and snow-filled 2013-2014 ski season.
Happy Skiing From All of Us at Winter Sports
575.377.6612 Ski Reservation Hotline: 575.377.6559
Angel Fire’s Top Shop Near the Resort Hotel www.wintersportsskishop.com
More grins per vertical feet.
Call Angel Fire Resort’s friendly travel planners and maximize your savings when you purchase lodging and lift tickets together. Located in the beautiful Sangre de Cristo mountains of Northern New Mexico, we offer everything you want for a perfect ski vacation in one convenient location. From slopeside lodging, to rentals and lessons; with one call, you can do it all. Plan your family’s winter getaway today!
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To find out more information, call 866.383.7969 or visit us online and at Facebook & Twitter.
angelfireresort.com
Conquer the Mountain
MountainSportsOfAngelFire.com 575.377.3490 www.hawk-media.com
Welcome to the new Mountain Sports, a full retail and rental ski shop including downhill/cross-country skis, snowboards, & snowshoes. We’re family owned and operated, focused on excellent customer service. Stop in for a free cup of Starbucks! 5
Contents Welcome
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Alpine Lodging
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Our Towns
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Oh When The Saints…
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Historic Hotels
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Ski the Southwest
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Taos Ski Valley, Red River
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Angel Fire Resort, Durango Mtn. Resort
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Enchanted Forest XC, Sipapu
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Wolf Creek, Ski Apache
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Tiwa…Keeping Language Alive
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Can’t Keep A Good Town Down
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Dining
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Calendar of Events
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Publisher/Editor Design/Production
Joe Haukebo Digerati Design
Advertising Sales Jess Heald, Christine Pedler Contributing Writers John Biscello, Savannah Hoover, Jim O’Donnell, Michele Potter Photography Geraint Smith, J Lombard, Chris McClennan, Scott D.W. Smith Cover photo Geraint Smith www.GeraintSmith.com Courtesy Hacienda Martinez
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HighCountry and SkiCountry Visitor Guides are published by Hawk Media. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission from the Publisher. Requests for permission should be directed to: Hawk Media PO Box 182 Angel Fire, NM 87710 575 595 0575 | 575 758 4047 info@hawk-media.com Scan the QR code! Or visit us at www.hawk-media.com for more articles, photos & e-zines
SKICOUNTRY 2014
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Angel Fire
866.668.7787 App Store: Angel Fire App
AngelFireFun.com
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WELCOME
to the southern Rockies
O
ctober. Summer’s gone and fall is fading. The cottonwoods and aspens seeping gold and orange and scrub oak reds have been dimming for days. You can feel waves of winter rolling towards us, see it in the morning frost on windshields: not hard enough yet to need scraping, still melting on its own by mid-morning. Although the strong winds throttling the trees should have been sound warning of weather coming, it still seemed like winter sneaked up on us. And then, suddenly, snow – a light layer covering the frozen ground, drifting up, giving the air a cold bite: weather with sharp teeth. No point in denying it; we knew winter was coming, like it always does; we even commented on how tall the mullein plants were this year, having learned from Native friends their height foretold how deep the snow would be this winter. And if we’d been paying closer attention, the animals have been giving signs for some time: hummingbirds sucking up the last local nectar, then heading south; ants storing food, so focused and feverish in their tasks; rabbits and rodents burrowing in and hunkering down; deer and elk grazing, loading up on brittle grass. And local folks too getting ready: bagging green chiles, drying native mushrooms, smoking snagged kokanee salmon, reaming out chimney flues and stockpiling wood. With winters always so long, summer will be missed – at first. You think of the last hike of the year into the mountains to fly fish an alpine lake with your son. The last kayak
paddle stroke, horse trek, horseshoe throw, croquet whack, tennis serve and return. The last full body sunscreen, skip along the beach, icy lemonade or cold beer sweating under the sun. The last water fight, slip-andslide, car wash in the yard. The last lawn mow, rake, garden weed pull, hedge trim, or hunting a wayward golf ball on the bank of a creek. The final mountain bike descent, summer concert, flip-flop and shorts days. The last licks of summer. Now we smell in the air the changing of the guard. The warmer days melt away until that final turning point when we’re slapped in the face by the cold and snap out of it. And quickly we get distracted by the rugged, ruthless beauty of winter and are thankful to live in a place with four seasons. Kids are more resilient; they’ve been ready for winter for months – ready to mount chairlifts chugging up to the summit, then ready to charge back down and do it again. Lots of folks wonder why people who don’t ski or snowboard, snowshoe, skate, snowmobile, or ice fish stay around in winter. Some don’t, but new folks always come. And those of us who stay to play turn into big kids. All it takes is a strong night wind drifting in to set the scene. The landscape gets more radical – the more manicured look of summer shifts to a more random face: windblown snow, plowed snow, piled snow – a drifting landscape that changes each day. And then we begin our winter dance. There’s always shoveling to be done, fireplaces to be stoked to ward off the bitter cold. We muck around in the SKICOUNTRY 2014
The life up high snow, boots crunching, footprints left, narrow paths outside our doors, tracks of where we go. More work, slow work, back to survival basics, like that of earlier pioneers – rough old-timers, tougher than us, in scratchy long underwear, wool hats and gloves, working hard to keep the blood pumping, muscles warm, bones from feeling too brittle. All the winter signs come into play – “Watch For Overhead Ice,” “Icy Conditions,” “Roads May Be Icy” – telling of the ice cycle: the oscillating freeze and thaw stemming from a piercing southwest sun. And the sudden loud roar from the roof as dammed-up ice avalanches off the eaves. My father once came and spent a week splitting cords of wood by axe. He loved it, saying it brought back a distant childhood, put him in closer touch with Mother Nature. But if done right, done well, winter is much more than braving the elements. Simply follow the children; they are the masters of the season. They crash-bang around, digging in with all their souls. So, undaunted, we follow. There’s nothing funnier to a kid than watching a buddy biff. Or better yet, seeing the old man flying through the air, out of control, eating it big time in one horrendous bite. A wipe-out without a shred of dignity or grace, a cloud of smoke floating over the scene of the crash where you augered in and then struggled to surface. “You alright, Dad?” a wide-eyed daughter asks. “Fine. Just fine. You can’t hurt steel,” you respond in a muffled groan, all your gear in disarray. And you can hear their laughter echoing in the snow. Welcome to the southern Rockies… home of the (stiff and sore and sometimes not-toobright) brave. — Joe Haukebo, publisher www.hawk-media.com
dine shop sled tube ice fish snowmobile sleigh ride snowshoe cross country downhill snowboard …or just relax
RIO HONDO CONDOMINIUMS, TSV Two, three and four-bedroom condos directly next door to the Children’s Ski School. Fully equipped kitchens, living rooms with fireplaces, and dining room areas with views out to the back deck or balcony, most of which overlook the Hondo River against a beautiful Rocky Mountain backdrop. Best outdoor hot tub on the mountain and a dry sauna to soak and steam under the stars. DISH Satellite TV, free wireless internet.
800.461.8263 575.776.2646 6 Firehouse Rd., Taos Ski Valley www.RioHondoCondos.com
EL PUEBLO LODGE Come stay at the edge of town, at the edge of everything! Southwest charm with early Taos architecture. Complimentary wifi and HBO. Heated, seasonal pool, yearround hot tub. Continental breakfast each morning, fresh baked cookies each afternoon. Pet-friendly. Three blocks from historic Taos Plaza; 18 miles from Taos Ski Valley. Taos Pueblo and Taos Mountain Casino two miles north. Visit our website for specials and packages.
800.433.9612 575.758.8700 412 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, New Mexico www.ElPuebloLodge.com
TAOS BED & BREAKFAST INNS Enjoy your Southwestern adventure even more when you begin and end each day at one of our 16 Taos Bed and Breakfast Inns. Exceptional food, well-appointed rooms and gifted innkeepers who know just how to help you create memories of Taos, which will keep you coming back for years to come. For more information and to book online:
VERMEJO PARK RANCH Located 40 miles west of Raton, NM, Ted Turner’s Vermejo Park Ranch is the ideal destination for family gatherings, corporate retreats, or weekends away, with outstanding guest service. Enjoy our Winter Escape from January-March 2014, with a full range of outdoor activities including snowshoeing, Nordic skiing, sledding and tubing, wildlife viewing, and unparalleled ice fishing. Special Events include photography tours and cooking classes. Spanning over 920 square miles of prairie and mountain peaks, winter beauty and luxurious amenities make Vermejo Park an unforgettable location for winter reprieve. Winter Escape: Starts at $300 per person per evening (two-night minimum), includes guided activities and meals.
575.445.3097 40 Miles W Hwy 555, Raton, New Mexico www.VermejoParkRanch.com
SIERRA DEL SOL CONDOMINIUMS Best location in Taos Ski Valley! Slopeside, streamside, Village Center… The Sierra del Sol welcomes international travelers. Each unit individually decorated. Perfect for every season! Studio, one- and two-bedroom condominiums with fullyequipped kitchens, fireplaces, full bath, telephone, TV and balcony with stream and mountain views. Close to restaurants, shops, entertainment. Two-minute walk to the lift. Perfect base for summer hiking and fall colors. Open all year.
800.523.3954 575.776.2981 13 Thunderbird Road, Taos Ski Valley info@sierradelsoltaos.com www.SierraDelSolTaos.com
www.taosbandbinns.com NEW MEXICO LODGES 10
FIRESIDE INN CABINS Modern, deluxe one and two bedroom fullyequipped cabins with room to roam on ten acres along the San Juan River. Located on the east side of Pagosa, close to Hot Springs, toward Wolf Creek Ski Area and national forest X-country ski trails. Private river access and fishing (catch and release) on our property. Individual living area with gas fireplace, bedroom/s, kitchen, bathroom. Covered porch – Open year-round.
888.264.9204 970.264.9204 1600 E. Hwy 160, Pagosa Springs, Colorado www.FiresideCabins.com
BEST WESTERN RIO GRANDE Two blocks from Durango & Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad train station. Close to fine dining, great shopping and exciting night life. 102 spacious rooms, prime location, friendly staff, special amenities. Summer activities include horseback riding, mountain biking, river rafting, and kayaking, or tour Mesa Verde National Park or the San Juan Skyway. Complimentary breakfast and cocktail hour, heated indoor pool and jacuzzi, wifi, cable TV with free HBO, fitness center, free guest laundry, and more.
800.245.4466 970.385.4980 400 E. 2nd Ave., Durango, Colorado www.BWRioGrandeInn.com
WOLF CREEK LODGE Just minutes away from Wolf Creek Ski Area, home to Colorado’s best powder! Experience our all-American mountain hospitality. Under new management, offering completely remodeled luxury units at bargain rates. 18 newly-remodeled kitchenette units; spacious parking for trailers, trucks & buses; 2 new hot tubs; flat screen HD TVs & Direct TV; family suites. Stay And Ski package deals; discounts for groups and events. Pet friendly! Find us on Facebook. Book online:
719.873.1900 31042 W. Hwy 160, South Fork, Colorado www.TheWolfCreekSkiLodge.com
ALPINE LODGES HIGH COUNTRY LODGE AND CABINS Five minutes from downtown Pagosa Springs in the beautiful San Juan Mountains. Full-service hotel offers lodging from lodge rooms to comfortable cabins for privacy and relaxation for families or couples. Complimentary hot breakfast, three hot tubs and sauna, wifi, cable with HBO, fireplaces in cabins. Guest laundry, playground area, large lawn, private fishing pond, horse corrals, fire pits and BBQ grills. Pet-friendly.
800.862.3707 970.264.4181 3821 Hwy 160 East, Pagosa Springs, Colorado www.HighCountryLodge.com
UTE BLUFF LODGE CABINS AND RV PARK Located on the east side of the town of South Fork, and close to Wolf Creek Ski Area, the Rio Grande National Forest, and the Rio Grande River, we offer 7 rustic log cabins with full kitchens, 21 comfortable lodge rooms with microwaves and refrigerators and 30 fully-euipped RV spaces. Amenities include a large parking lot, meeting room, guest laundry, cable TV, free wi-fi, two hot tubs, fish cleaning station, game hanging pole, full size tipi, fire pit, walking trail, picnic tables, and gas grills.
800.473.0595 719.873.5595 276810 US Hwy 160, South Fork, Colorado www.UteBluffLodge.com stay@uteblufflodge.com COLORADO LODGES 11
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Dawn breaks clear and bright. The clouds moved off over the night leaving a crusting of snow on the last of the autumn leaves that cling to the trees outside of my house. There are smears of snow on the sidewalk. Before I’ve polished off my first cup of coffee, however, the air has warmed to the point where the snow is rapidly turning to droplets and puddles and the trees, released of the weight as the snow drips to the ground, pop up and reach for the sky. It is November and winter is moving in on northern New Mexico. The forecast calls for more snow in just a few days. I’ve got a few days free and its time for a little road trip – interspersed with some hiking.
our
TOWNS ANGEL FIRE CHAMA CIMARRON CLAYTON
TAOS Our little town sits at the base of the 12,000 -13,000 foot peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Our mountains tangle with the clouds and end up spending significant chunks of the winter blanketed in a snow that is popping silver against the intense blue of the New Mexican sky. To the west and across the 900-foot deep Rio Grande gorge the Taos Plateau (one of the highest in the world) rolls west and presses up against the Tusas range. If you’re not getting a great view while in Taos then your eyes are not open. We are surrounded by some of the largest and most important Wilderness areas in North America. The landscape teems with wildlife and it is hard to pass a day without a hike, mountain bike ride or fishing trip. Never mind its small size Taos, given its history as a crossroads for a multitude of cultures through the millennia, is a rich, multicultural hub attracting people from all corners of the globe. Sit in one of our welcoming little bars or cafes and tune into the polyglot music flowing from our residents. And that doesn’t even count the visitors! Packed with amazing restaurants, museums, galleries and festivals of all sorts. Taos is a place proud of its history and heritage and a strong identity. There is no pretension here. It is a good place to be. It is also a good place to base yourself while you explore what northern New Mexico has to offer.
DURANGO EAGLE NEST LAS VEGAS PAGOSA SPRINGS RED RIVER SOUTH FORK TAOS TAOS SKI VALLEY
ANGEL FIRE After grabbing a steaming cup-o-joe and a breakfast burrito stuffed with green chile from the Elevation coffee shop in Taos I tool east along Highway 64 into Taos Canyon and up towards the Moreno Valley. The drive is narrow and winding. It’s a good road to take slowly and enjoy the forest closing in around you. I pass through thick pine forests and climb over the ridge at Palo Flechado Pass into the vast elk-filled meadows of the Moreno Valley. Angel Fire, nestled against the mountains, is the valley’s southern anchor. Originally conceived as a resort town, Angel Fire is one of New Mexico’s fastest growing villages. It was named for the explosion of color that brands its snow-covered peaks on winter evenings. Angel Fire is a hub for outdoor adventure. Skiing, snowboarding and snowmobiling in the winter gives way to hiking, mountain biking, fly fishing and an 18-hole golf course. Angel Fire is also home to the Vietnam Veterans Memorial State Park, a beautiful, silence-filled place dedicated to those lost much too far from home. Up here, the sun is not quite warm enough to melt the early snow yet. Angel Fire likes it this way. They are busy building up the snow base for the December opening
PHOTOS: GERAINT SMITH
Continued on page 15
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The Family Vacation of a Lifetime‌ Any Time of Year!
T
he Riverside sprawls comfortably over three acres of beautifully landscaped grounds, only 50 feet from the Copper Chairlift. Families love our wonderful playground, lawn games, BBQ area and hot tub. Amenities include telephones, kitchens, fireplaces, satellite TV, DVD players and free wireless internet at very reasonable rates. We now have laundry services, too. Ask about our off-season and Wednesday Free packages!
800.432.9999 575.754.2252 www.RedRiver-NM.com 14
SKICOUNTRY 2014
of the slopes and from what I can see this year, they have a jumpstart on the snowmaking. I drop into the Early Bird Café. They do coffee right. The omelets and muffins coming out of the kitchen though have me drooling and I regret for a moment that breakfast burrito I ate on the drive up. There just isn’t room for more!
EAGLE NEST Highway 64 is the southern portion of The Enchanted Circle, an 86-mile loop circling from Taos to Angel Fire and Eagle Nest over Bobcat Pass to Red River, Questa and back to Taos. I took it north deeper into the Moreno Valley towards the lakeside Village of Eagle Nest. The 22,000-acre lake is famous for its winter ice fishing activities but also for the large rainbow trout and kokanee salmon that can be pulled from its waters. Eagle Nest was once a rough and tumble mining town and some of the remnants of those days remain in its architecture. I pass through and park the car just up the road at Elizabethtown. It’s hard to imagine now but in the 1870s these ruins were actually one of the largest towns in the New Mexico territory. A copper and gold boom hit the area and those hoping to get rich quick spilled in from literally all over the world. From Elizabethtown you can look west for a clear view of Wheeler Peak, New Mexico’s tallest. I spend time roaming the ruins and taking pictures of the melting cemetery. Then I head down to the plains.
against the Colorado border in a neat little valley carved out of the stunning San Juan Mountains. Now, the San Juans are about the wildest country in the lower forty-eight. So wild in fact that grizzly and wolf sightings continue to trickle out of hunters and backpackers. It’s the kind of place you can walk for a week and never see another human being. Wintertime is a good time to rent a yurt up on the pass and ski or snowmobile back in to experience a winter wonderland of peace and solitude.
RED RIVER Just over Bobcat Pass west of Eagle Nest lies Red River. Despite its proximity to Taos, Red River is about as different as can be. Often called “Little Texas” for its popularity among visitors from the southern states, this little town is surrounded by forested wilderness peaks and is completely geared to the guest. Somewhat reminiscent of an old mining town, Red River bursts with activities. In the summer you have fishing, mountain biking, hiking, four-wheeling and inner tubing down the grassy ski slopes. Winter brings on everything from skiing and snowboarding to ice skating, snowmobiling and sleigh rides – not to mention shopping. Nighttime brings out the music and a whole host of dining and drinking venues.
CHAMA After a stop off at the Rio Grande Gorge State park northwest of Taos I cruise on up into the Tusas mountains and do a little fly fishing at Hopewell Lake. Then I cruise on through the thick forests of pine, aspen and Douglas fir and down into the Chama River Valley – but not before seeing a black bear hustle across the road and up into the snowy hills. Chama sits right up
PAGOSA SPRINGS The little town is like a diamond in… well, a bucket of diamonds. Bordered by the nearly 500,000 acre Weminuche Wilderness and nestled in among snow-capped San Juan Mountains, Pagosa Springs was once the winter haven of the nomadic Ute people. Just like visitors today, the Ute came to this area for a soak in the luxerious hot springs that sparkle from the rock faces above the river. In fact, the Ute word “Pagosah” means “healing waters” – and boy, are they. After a perfect day hiking the backcountry, there is nothing better that a nice soak to soothe the tired muscles and worn-out bones. Pagosa is just up the road from Chama. It only takes about an hour to get there and the drive takes you through some spectacular backcountry. Pagosa hosts three separate hot springs resorts. The Healing Waters Resort and Spa, the Overlook Mineral Springs Spa and the Springs Resort and Spa. Between the three the visitor can find just what they need be it mineral pools, massage treatments or just plain soaking in a tub. Continued on page 32
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OH, WHEN THE SAINTS… Carving a place in history
Los Tres Arcángels – Krissa Maria Lopez
W
hether celebrating the beneficence of San Francisco (St. Francis), petitioning San Ysidro for rain during a drought (St. Isidore), or honoring the virtues of Guadalupe, saints have been and remain an essential part of the spiritual and cultural fabric of Northern New Mexico and Southern Colorado. When Spanish settlers arrived in these parts in the 16th century, they brought with them the icons and images associated with their Roman Catholic faith, and planted the seeds which sprouted what author, artist and historian E. Boyd once declared “the most original folk art of the United States.” Old-world values fused with a rugged regional flavor, and out of this union arose the “santos” (saints) that served a functional role in the lives of the villagers. This was not art for art’s sake, nor art as 16
a commodity, but rather art born out of a spiritual hunger and sense of communion. The late 18th century to the late 19th century spans what is now considered the Golden Age or Classic Era of HispanicAmerican devotional art. This period remains the core foundation upon which later santeros and santeras (male and female saintmakers) built and extended a cultural legacy. Or as Dr. Charles Carillo—santero, historian and anthropologist— stated: “The formal art school is a thing of the past for New Mexico carvers. The historic santeros are the art school of the present.”
Form Following Function There are three forms that traditionally define Hispanic-American devotional art: Retablos, Bultos, and Reredos. Retablos feature
images painted upon roughcarved slabs of wood, which are coated with gesso (dried gypsum and rabbit-glue) and finished off with a varnish. Bultos are free-standing carved statues, and those which are designed to be dressed in costumes for ceremonial occasions, are known as vestir bultos. Two well-known vestirs are “La Conquistadora” in the St. Francis Church in Santa Fe, and “Our Lady of Guadalupe” in the San Geronimo Church on the Taos Pueblo. Reredos are elaborate, multi-paneled altar screens. During the Golden Age, santos became fixtures in the Spanish-Colonial churches, people’s homes, and the moradas—de-centralized meeting places of worship. The moradas were run by the Penitente Brotherhood, which played a prominent role in the religious life of
the villagers, and remains an active confraternity today. Ascetic in nature, the Penitentes emphasize the Passion of Christ, and this is evident in what is known as the Penitente-style: graphic renderings of Christ’s crucifixion and sufferings. Another way in which the Catholic faithful of this region celebrate Passion Week is through a pilgrimage to El Santuario de Chimayo (the Sanctuary of Chimayo). The village of Chimayo, located between Taos and Santa Fe, is the site of this historic landmark church, which receives about 300,000 visitors per year and is revered for its “holy dirt.” The santos, which constitute the celebrated legacy of the Golden Age, are all the handiwork of men. Or at least are credited as such, in that women often served unsung roles in the crafting
of saints. Today, the same restrictions don’t apply, and there are many prominent santeras. Humility was a key component in santos-making, and many santeros left their work unsigned. Two notable santeros who came to be identified through their region and their style—the Laguna Santero and the Arroyo Hondo Santero. Some of the most revered names from that era include José Aragón, Pedro Antonio Fresquis, Juan Miguel Herrera, José Benito Ortega, Jose Rafael Aragón, and Molleno (the Chile Pepper Santero). One of the primary factors which precipitated a period of decline in Hispanic-American devotional art was the advent of the Santa Fe Railway. Its arrival in Las Vegas in 1879 and Albuquerque in 1880 opened the floodgates for mass-produced merchandise. Cheap paper reproductions of devotional images and plaster-of-Paris saints began to colonize homes and churches. One-of-a-kind art was displaced by dime-a-dozen bric-a-brac.
was welcome or desired is an altogether different and complicated matter). Artist and author Frank Applegate and author Mary Austin had been collectors of and advocates for traditional New Mexico art, and in 1925 they, along with several others, founded the Spanish Colonial Arts Society. The Society—whose mission is to collect, preserve and exhibit the Spanish Colonial art of New Mexico and beyond—has morphed and expanded during its 84-year history. One of its primary spin-offs is the now world-renowned Spanish Market, which takes place each July in Santa Fe (there is also a smaller Winter Market, this year taking place on
festive event. One of the early twentieth century figures who would garner acclaim and draw the interest of collectors, was José Dolores Lopez. Hailing from Cordova, NM, his village would become the namesake for the style which was his trademark. The “Cordova style” refers to chip-carved, unpainted bultos, and is carried on by Lopez’s descendants. Perhaps one of the most seminal and iconic figures in New Mexico art history is Patrocinio Barela (19001964). His canon of wood carvings runs the gamut from saintly to secular, abstract to representational, and he
Market Value
In the early twentieth century, East-coast Anglos— particularly those with an artistic bent—began to insinuate themselves into the towns and villages of Northern New Mexico. Their exposure to both the Native-American and Hispanic-American art synonymous with this region basically set the stage for third party involvement (whether or not this involvement
Our Lady of All Nations – Victor Goler
Thanksgiving weekend). The hand-made work of hundreds of New Mexico artists is showcased and sold at this
was both lauded and vilified for his innovative techniques within the form. He was adopted, if only in theory, by
the modernists of the 1930s and ‘40s, and his elastic style drew comparisons to African sculpture work.
No Time Like the Present I am the tradition. But tradition is not copying. What I do to continue my heritage is to renew it, like a growing plant. – Luis Tapia, santero Tradition at its best is an anchor and vital force of continuity; at its worst, a proponent of static and decay. Many of the santeros and santeras working today have remained true to the heart of devotion, while extending boundaries and broadening the definition of religious art. This can be seen in the work of Luis Tapia, who has framed gang members and prostitutes within a spiritual context. He has asserted that there is “religious life in all activities” and that “rules tend to stagnate the culture.” Then there’s the outsider folk art of Nicholas Herrera—the El Rito Santero—who has drawn not only from his religious background, but that of his rough-and-tumble environment to create subjectively charged works, in which you might find the Grim Reaper cruising in a low-rider and toting an automatic weapon. The social, political, and economic complexion of communities, and the world at large is being filtered through saint-making. Or, Continued on page 19
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HISTORIC HOTELS HOTEL LA FONDA de TAOS The oldest hotel in Taos is new again. In the heart of the historic district on Taos Plaza, La Fonda offers 21st Century amenities while preserving its rich Southwestern roots and ambience. Home to Mosaic Fine Dining, Noula’s Starbucks Coffee Shop, and the D.H. Lawrence “Forbidden Art Collection.” 19 rooms, 5 suites, and our Plaza Penthouse. Friendly, personal service. Walking distance to galleries, museums, shopping, entertainment, fine dining. 108 SOUTH PLAZA, TAOS, NEW MEXICO WWW.LAFONDATAOS.COM 800.833.2211 505.758.2211
HISTORIC WINDSOR HOTEL Incomparable ambiance and grandeur, the Windsor Hotel is the landmark and “Lavish Lady” of the Old West. History comes alive and adventure beckons as you experience a true western hotel built in 1874. Take a step back in time as you enjoy your stay in this Grand Dame – now restored to her former glory days, yet, with all the comfort and luxuries of today. 605 GRANDE AVE., DEL NORTE, COLORADO WWW.WINDSORHOTELDELNORTE.COM
719.657.9031
HISTORIC STRATER HOTEL A stay at the historic Strater Hotel in Durango, Colorado, is like stepping back in time with its Victorian opulence. Easily explore Cliff Dwellings at Mesa Verde or ride the famous Durango train, all just minutes away. Saunter in to the Diamond Belle Saloon, The Office Spiritorium, Mahogany Grille, or the Henry Strater Theatre featuring its 2014 Summer Durango Melodrama & Vaudeville. 699 MAIN AVE., DURANGO, COLORADO 800.247.4431 970.247.4431 WWW.STRATER.COM
THE HISTORIC TAOS INN Experience Southwestern charm and history at The Historic Taos Inn in the heart of Taos. Acclaimed by National Geographic Traveler as “One of America’s Great Inns,” and listed on the National and NM Registers of Historic Places. 44 rooms and suites, most with Pueblo-style fireplaces. Award-winning Doc Martin’s Restaurant and The Adobe Bar on premises. Happy hour 4-6 Monday-Friday; free live music nightly. 125 PASEO DEL PUEBLO NORTE, TAOS, NEW MEXICO TAOSINN.COM 18
575.758.2233
PHOTO COURTESY HOTELSTFRANCIS.COM / JEFF CAVEN
to borrow the words of santero José Raul Equibel: “It is the santero’s mission to re-sensitize.” The contemporary renaissance of HispanicAmerican devotional art, which gained traction in the ‘80s and ‘90s and has carried over into the 21st century, has translated into a wider platform and greater exposure for santeras and santeros. Victor Goler, Marie Romero Cash, Ramon José Lopez, David Nabor Lucero, Frankie Nazario Lucero, Catherine Robles-Shaw, Alcerio Otero, Arlene Cisneros Seña, and Jerome Lujan are just some of the many notable artists carrying on a timehonored tradition… in their own way. Then there’s saint-making as a family tradition. Santera Krissa Maria Lopez—whose father, Felix Lopez, and brother, Joseph Lopez are also saint-makers—explains, “I come from a background in which my parents consider family, faith and education the most important components for a happy, meaningful and successful life… My father began carving santos in 1976 when very few people were doing it. I was five years old at the time, so I grew up watching him and being around this type of art. As an adult, I took up retablo painting, while my brother Joseph became a carver like Dad. I draw inspiration from the historic retablos and bultos painted by the masters such as José Rafael Aragón, Pedro Antonio Fresquis, José Aragón, and others, but I paint in a more www.hawk-media.com
contemporary style, keeping in mind that they are first and foremost devotional works… I believe in innovation within the tradition, not not to the extent that one takes away its devotional aspect and turns it into an art piece in which its original intent is diminished.”
Saints on Display For those interested in viewing devotional art, spanning different eras and styles, the following places offer permanent collections: The Harwood Museum, Taos. 575-758-1826, harwoodmuseum.org Millicent Rogers Museum, five miles north of Taos. 575758-2462, millicentrogers.org Hacienda Martinez, Taos. 575-758-1000 The Couse Foundation, Taos. 575-751-0369, cousefoundation.org (Tours: May-Oct.; or by special arrangement, Nov.-April) Museum of International Folk Art, Santa Fe. 505-4761200, internationalfolkart.org Spanish Colonial Arts Society, Santa Fe. 505-9822226, spanishcolonialblog.org Palace of the Governors, Santa Fe. 505-476-5100, palaceofthegovernors.org El Potrero Trading Post, Chimayo, 505-351-4112, potrerotradingpost.com Albuquerque Museum, Albuquerque, 505-243-7255, albuquerquemuseum.org John Biscello is a Taos writer, playwright and teacher whose short story “Limb” was recently nominated for a Pushcart Prize. 19
Durango • • Pagosa Springs PURGATORY AT DURANGO
WOLF CREEK SKI AREA
• South Fork
CO LO R A D O NEW MEXICO Red River •
Chama •
ENCHANTED FOREST XC
RED RIVER SKI AREA
• Eagle Nest
SKI THE SOUTHWEST
Y
TAOS SKI VALLEY Angel • Fire • Taos
ou can ride almost anywhere in the world. But nowhere in the world do
you get our magical mix of Southwest-
ANGEL FIRE RESORT
ern sun and snow, culture and cuisine, wildlife and wilderness, art and history. The landscape is stunning – from high alpine terrain above treeline to a huge
SIPAPU SKI RESORT
rip in the earth. Our ski mountains rip – chutes, cliffs, bowls, cruisers, and in terrain parks – rails, boxes, rainbows, banks. Treks into
Santa Fe •
the backcountry are beautiful and boss. Outside our quaint mountain towns you’ll discover fresh pockets of adventure and will feel this winter completely, utterly alive. And at day’s end, when your thighs are
• Albuquerque
screaming, slip into a hot tub or pound a big, honking green chile cheeseburger. Nothing like it anywhere. Scan individual QR codes with your smartphone for information about each ski area. Map shows approximate locations. Distances are not to scale.
• Ruidoso SKI APACHE
PHOTO: J LOMBARD PHOTO
20
SKICOUNTRY 2014
adventure | ski areas
www.hawk-media.com
21
adventure | ski areas
RED RIVER SKI AREA
TAOS SKI VALLEY Taos Ski Valley. Translation? Authentic, glorious terrain known for its gnarly steeps and chutes. To keep up a stunning reputation with the die-hard skiers as well as new riders, Taos Ski Valley continues with its ten-year master plan to build more facilities, lifts and carve new runs. Last year TSV succeeded in making the mountain and facilities more user-friendly to families and folks just starting out. As always, you
can still find the holy grail of epic runs by hiking to the hidden stashes a la the West Basin, never a shortage of freeride excitement. TSV’s Ernie Blake Snowsport School is still world class, the terrain park is deluxe, and a shuttle runs daily from Albuquerque airport. And TSV continues its commitment to keeping it green with mountainwide recycling and energy conservation. Check out the interactive trail map online.
This place just keeps adding cool stuff. In the last two years, Red River Ski Area installed live cams, improved terrain parks, upgraded chalets, brought in new rental gear, an e-commerce website, snow coach tours, a new snow cat and additional snow guns. This year—more terrain. Check out the new two-acre expert level grade on the northwest side of Dropout trail and experience a part of the mountain unavailable to the public in
the past. Skiers and riders can buy tickets easily from the e-commerce website: print out the barcode and give it to the ski techs to scan and get you geared up. Or check out the 24-hour ticket kiosks. Take a ride to the Tip Restaurant for dinner in the heated snow coach. Ski and snowboard programs are available for kids and adults. After riding, there’s tubing evening rail jams and torchlight parades. Events online:
redriverskiarea.com 575-754-2223
skitaos.org 866-968-7386
22
SKICOUNTRY 2014
DURANGO MOUNTAIN RESORT
ANGEL FIRE RESORT There’s a little something, actually a lot, for everyone at Angel Fire Resort. Even for those unwilling to experience its downhill riding, freestyle terrain parks, cross country or downhill skiing options, there’s always tubing, sledding, snowmobiling, snow-shoeing or the always merry sleigh ride. Kids in ski school get GPS arm band locators for realtime tracking and for checking out stats online later. Learn new skills or polish old ones with ski and board
classes. It will get a bit wilder on the front side after dark this year, with the opening of the all-new nighttime terrain park, Powder City. Don’t worry. Still plenty of room for tubing and the torchlight parades. The Nordic Center, at the awesome Country Club, now has 17 km of groomed trails for visitors and high altitude athletic training, skaters or classic style, and snowshoers. Check out the moonlight, nature and gourmet tours. Events online:
Purgatory at Durango Mountain Resort is known to be a unique blend of steep tree skiing trails and wide-open cruisers with stunning views, but a lot has been added off the mountain to keep the experience excellent. Durango Mountain Resort went through a recent period of unprecedented growth in the resort’s history, adding Purgatory Lodge, a $50 million investment and new anchor to the base village in 2008.
New this year, stop in the Paradise Pizzeria and Ice Creamery in the Purgatory Village Plaza for a good meal or the perfect apresski treat. More grooming equipment and energyefficient snow guns make for a productive early season to provide a solid base for the rest of the year. And mark it off the bucket list: dog sledding is now offered from the Durango Mountain Resort base lodge for hour-long sessions. Check out events online.
skipurg.com 800-525-0892
angelfireresort.com 800-633-7463
www.hawk-media.com
23
ENCHANTED FOREST XC Getting on the right trail is easy stuff at New Mexico’s oldest full-service crosscountry ski and snowshoe area, Enchanted Forest, a few miles east of Red River. Cross Country? Over 33 km (600) acres of prime forest groomed 12-foot wide tracks for additional skiing and a wide skate lane for the freestylers. Snowshoe? Old growth forests, aspen groves, wildlife—a cool nature trek. Warm up with a snack at the hit where you can rent the stuff you need. Group and individual lessons. Got a dog? Bring ‘em. Five km are dogfriendly. Need a night? How about a mountain yurt? Midweek is easier to book. Events on the web:
enchantedforestxc.com 800-966-9381 575-754-6112
24
SIPAPU RESORT Now in its 62nd season, Northern New Mexico’s oldest ski resort still has it. Sipapu has been carving out great tree terrain for well over a decade, and the efforts can be enjoyed all across the mountain. Intertwined with groomed cruisers for all ability levels, glade skiing is getting bigger and better each year. These days, 11 of the resort’s 41 trails are glade runs off Lift 4, close to Sipapu’s peak of 9,255 feet. If the trees aren’t your thing, hop on the
brand new magic carpet where Lift 2 used to be. It accesses two beginner runs and an intermediate trail for those looking to master their skills before conquering the rest of the mountain. First time? Get a free lesson with the purchase of a full-day lift ticket. With the help of a few new snow guns and snowcats, Sipapu defended its title of first ski area open in New Mexico for the 12th year in a row, letting you get the most of their 300-plus days of sunshine on the hill.
sipapunm.com 800-587-2240
SKICOUNTRY 2014
adventure | ski areas
WOLF CREEK SKI AREA As the first of several improvements to be made in the coming years, Wolf Creek replaced its Treasure Lift with the Treasure Stoke Lift, a new high-speed quad chair for easier loading and unloading. The term Stoke wasn’t thrown in the name to fool you, just to tease you for what’s waiting beyond the now six-minute ride up the mountain. As always Wolf Creek provides over 1600 acres of gorgeous terrain to tear apart, but keep in mind the avalanche risk. Access to most of the backcountry ridges, bowls
and chutes is less than a half hour hike, but a minimum ability of advanced intermediate required. Take a break for a beverage at the Raven’s Roost, a full-service bar open on the top level of Raven’s Nest, a cool glass-lined restaurant serving pizza at the top of the Raven lift. Group and private lessons for riders of all levels and ages. Free parking and free shuttles. And like they’ve done for years, 100 percent of its energy comes from a wind power source, winter and summer.
wolfcreekski.com 970-264-5649 1-800-SKI-WOLF
www.hawk-media.com
SKI APACHE Mescalero, New Mexico’s Ski Apache—the country’s southernmost ski resort— offers bumps, bowls, cruisers, a terrain park and the only slopeside gondola in the state. Touted as the best warmweather powder capital in North America, Ski Apache sprawls out under the 12,000-plus foot peak of Sierra Blanca. The Snow Sport School
Learning Center has plenty of programs for the family—kids and adults, even mixtures of the two with the popular Mom and Me, Dad and Me programs. Or you can kick it on a trikke or rip down the tubing hill. Boasting over 300 days of sunshine each year. You can even take a break and hit the slot machines slopeside in The Lodge. Events online:
skiapache.com 575-464-3600
25
TIWA… KEEPING LANGUAGE ALIVE Tiwa is not a written language, and out of respect, many speakers don’t wish to provide written translations. Other traditions may differ from that of Taos Pueblo, which speaks northern Tiwa, as does Picuris
T
he white stuff falling softly from the sky is the world’s most beautiful sight, no matter what you call it. “Nieve” I recall, in Spanish, as I navigate my Mexican ski student on to his first chairlift ride. I teach in Spanish in desperate times, and I practice speaking with Dennis, my liftie friend, though I suspect him of teaching me some local off-color words. No matter, my Mexican student won’t know them either. And the Tiwa word for snow is…? I don’t know, because my Taos Pueblo friend won’t tell me. It doesn’t work like that.* (See sidebar about language etiquette). But if you want to understand culture, listen for language. Don’t listen for the words; listen for meaning. Get an earful, as I do, by simply putting your ear to the local tracks. I like to listen to the lifties or the checkers at my neighborhood Albertson’s, in the aisles of Wal-Mart, or with neighbors and friends. I listen as my fashionista friend Patricia switches to Tiwa when 26
it’s her mom on the phone. The real heartbeat of northern New Mexico beats on in Spanish dichos (sayings) and in the sound of daily life aqui in Taos. Or read Larry Torres’ hilarious Spanglish column in the bilingual weekly Taos News (aka El Crepesculo). Language goes deep, I think, and Joseph Rael, a Tiwa (and Ute) speaker, puts it this way, in his book Sound: “Everything is encoded in the gene pool. Whatever language we speak, we are speaking from that particular culture, but beneath that there is a code that is understood universally. One of the ways to tap in to this code is to listen to how we pronounce words. Sounds are important. For instance, the sound ‘waa’ in English is part of the word ‘one.’ ‘Waa’ in Tiwa means life. Behind both of these is a common essential idea encoded in the human gene pool.” My Taos Pueblo friend Mildred Young and I have been at Wired Café talking about Tiwa, the endangered Tiwa language
she teaches. She is singing sweetly, and I imagine the underlying beat of soft drums. I recognize it as “one little two little three little Indians” not by words but by melody. This is one of the ways that they are keeping language alive, through their programs with kids – and there’s a Baby Tiwa program. The kids are the teachers, taking language back home to their parents, many of whom never learned. “Why does it sound so gentle?” I ask her. “It’s ‘rounded,’” she says. “There are no hard edges.” As we part ways, she asks if I would like some mushrooms. It is late fall, with the last leaves drifting down and the last of the mushrooms just picked. Would I? Would I! I prize two foods above all others—oysters and wild mushrooms. One speaks the stories of oceans, the other, of lands. Even a taste makes the world a vaster and more exciting place. In the back of her car, a mountain of stout brown and white mushrooms
are clotted with black dirt and swathed in newspapers. I close my eyes and inhale deeply—three lungfulls—the luxurious scent. Mildred knows I love language. I was once her college English teacher. In teaching anywhere—at the ski valley or the local college—language is central. You have to know where—culturally, personally, and linguistically—students are coming from. I had one who grew up with Spanish and said that as a kid, he didn’t know which words were English, and which Spanish, which makes sense when you remember that English never was the first language of New Mexico. Our students indeed become our teachers, as in the case of my former student Mildred. Now there are programs like the Indigenous Language Institute (ILI) in Santa Fe to help Native people keep their languages—like Tiwa and its sister language, Tewa—alive. Her Tiwa-learning kids at the Taos Pueblo Day school are learning in integrated fashSKICOUNTRY 2014
ion, and they adore picking mushrooms with her in their after-school program. They learn something else, too— traditional values. Mildred tells them “always cover the earth back up and show that you are thankful.” She also teaches the names of places. She says that there are “stories about the culture that can only be told in our language. Some try to translate what’s going on but it’s like skimming. You can’t capture the true meaning.” As I sit struggling to learn in Spanish class, many of my classmates are the grandchildren of Spanish speakers; the younger generations are losing it. What else is lost, I wonder? Some Mexican and Hispano and Anglo kids are now together in special Spanish immersion classes in their grade schools in Taos. One sad chapter of this history was the destruction of languages and cultures as Native kids, and Spanish too, were punished in English-speaking schools for speaking their own languages. www.hawk-media.com
When the Spanish colonizers arrived here, four centuries ago, they brought Spanish to the Brave New World and because northern New Mexican (formerly Mexican) mountain villages were isolated, so, too, was their Spanish. Some say it’s like speaking Shakespeare (it’s ancient) and others say it’s like rural Castilian (though one Castilian speaker I know couldn’t understand the folks over here in Peñasco.) But language never holds still, it is a living, breathing thing. It leans, it borrows, it corrupts and it corrupts absolutely. Roughly paraphrasing Joseph Rael, language is vibration and vibration is life and language resonates with its geography. Ruben Cobos, who celebrated neomexicano Spanish his entire 99 years, wrote the book about it, A Dictionary of New Mexico and Southern Colorado Spanish. “Relatively uniform,” as he called the Spanish here, included a relatively crazy fusion of Indigenous languages from Mexico (Nahuatl) and Rio
Grande Pueblos. Another of my students, David Maes, who grew up speaking local Spanish in Ranchos, reports troublesome incidents, like asking a taxi driver in Puerto Rico “me puedes dar un ride al la base del Coast Guard.” The driver didn’t get it, because there one says “dar pon.” Actually, David reports, “llevar en coche” is pretty standard. Except perhaps in Mexico where it’s “dar aventon” or in Peru where it’s “dar jalada” or Venezuela where it’s “dar cola,” or here where it’s “un ride.” Then David set up an appointment with the governor for a 7:30 almurzo (breakfast) meeting, before learning that in Puerto Rice, almurzo meant lunch. Everybody—I mean everybody—in New Mexico knows that the words for lunch is el lonche, in the same way that troka is truck. The mushrooms turned out to be an embarrassment of riches. It gradually dawned on me that no one else wanted to clean them, or cook them and
especially they did not want to eat them. They did not know from whence they’d come (you mean like McDonalds?) and neither did they know the name in English. Mushrooms, like language, are wild, unpredictable, powerful, and just possibly dangerous. The wrong mushroom or the wrong word just might spell death. But I cooked them the way I have always cooked mushrooms, all over the world, with garlic and butter and relish (the passion, not the condiment). And I did not die, but lived all the more richly, changed by an experience which began on the tongue. Still, they tasted different. I can’t find the words in English to describe them: kind of like mystery, kind of like adventure, kind of like earth. Dr. Michele Potter has lived in Taos for seventeen years, teaching American Studies and English at UNM and skiing at Taos Ski Valley. She speaks French, Spanish, German, and Norwegian—all of them badly. 27
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CAN’T KEEP A GOOD TOWN DOWN South Fork bounces back after forest fires
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fter last summer’s West Fork fire around South Fork and Creede, the Rio Grande County Tourism Board battled back with a wide range of marketing messages telling folks “The River of Life Still Flows in Rio Grande Country.” Partnering with neighboring communities, the message (via social media and bumper stickers, television commercials, Instagram postings, e-blasts, press releases, etc.) reinforces the concept that Rio Grande Country is “Stronger Than Fire.” “Businesses and people in these communities are resilient and strong, friendly and happy to open their arms to guests,” writes Josephine Pierce of the Rio Grande County Tourism Board. While the West Fork fire burned over 100,000 acres (primarily in the backcountry), visitors will find that the Rio Grande National Forest covers 1.82 million acres of southwest Colorado and remains “one of the true undiscovered jewels of Colorado.” With only five percent of the total area encompassing the forest damaged, recreation opportunities continue to abound where the Rio Grande begins its 1,800-mile journey to the Gulf of Mexico. The continental divide runs for 236 miles along most of the western border of the forest www.hawk-media.com
Clothing need not be elaborate, or even designed for skiing; but a wool hat, warm gloves or mittens, and underclothing are a must. Also don’t forget that sunscreen and sunglasses are necessary in the high altitude sun.
Ice Fishing
with the jagged top of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains framing the eastern border.
Skiing Wolf Creek Ski Area is beloved by powder hounds. Wolf Creek boasts epic snowfall, generally 465+ inches of the fluffy white stuff each year, more than any other ski resort in Colorado. Snow is so prolific here that the resort typically opens in October, giving it one of the longest seasons in the country. You won’t hear the din of snow-making machines fabricating a beaten path between rocks and dirt, but instead, listen for the distant whoops of avalanche-control bombs. This is powder country.
Snowmobiles If your idea of a great time involves fast machines roaring through heaps of snow, check out our 255 miles of groomed trails
with innumerable off-trail opportunities on wide-open ridges, rolling parks and steep climbs. Access to some of Colorado’s most scenic wintertime vistas (at 12,000+ feet) takes your breath away! A free map is available from both the Powder Busters and the Silver Thread Outdoor Club. These clubs sponsor group rides throughout the season and love for new-comers and visitors to join them.
Nordic Outdoor Because of the area’s plentiful snow and wide variety of terrain, those who prefer less-developed places to ski have bountiful options. Local outdoor clubs groom trails perfect for snowshoers and will link skiers to the freshest back country available. Both the adventurous and inexperienced snow bunnies will find something to their liking. Weather conditions can change rapidly so be prepared with extra clothing and goggles.
Several lakes in the area are great for winter ice fishing. A few of the favorites include Beaver Creek Reservoir, Big Meadows Reservoir and Road Canyon Reservoir, west of Creede.
Ice Skating and Sledding Rent a pair of skates from a local shop and hit the ice! The public rink is at the Community Building on Highway 149 and is maintained by volunteers from mid-December to midFebruary. The rink is outdoors and skating is free. Popular spots for sledding include a small hill in town at Rickel Park and a much larger hill at Beaver Creek Reservoir. Or you can choose your own location from the surrounding two million acres of national forest.
Lodging There’s plenty of great lodging in the area. A special mention: The historic Windsor Hotel in Del Norte, claiming to be the oldest hotel in Colorado. 29
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Trains and archaeology are the attractions pulling me again and again to the Colorado town of Durango. Well, OK, there is the skiing too! Nothing beats the Durango and Silverton Narrow Gauge Railroad. An impressive collection of powerful steam locomotives still run this 19th Century train route from Durango to Silverton high into the Rocky Mountains. The Polar Express sightseeing experience runs from November 23 - January 4, 2014, and the Cascade Canyon run goes from November - May, 2014, in addition to the regular route to Silverton. Durango also sits in the heart of one of the most notable archaeological areas in the world. Within an hour drive you can step back into ancient times by visiting places like Mesa Verde National Park or Ute Mountain Tribal Park among many others. Oh yeah… and the snow… at 10,822 feet high the Purgatory ski area at Durango Mountain Resort offers 35,000 acres of mountain for downhill and crosscountry skiing as well as snowboarding and sledding. End that kind of day with a locally-brewed beer and a scrumptious meal at one of Durango’s many brew pubs. Durango is loaded for fun.
CIMARRON A sharp contrast to the adobe style of Taos, this Old West town is simply one of my favorites. I first came here in the 1980s as a Boy Scout on my way to the nearby Philmont Scout Ranch. Nowadays I come for the friendly and rather funny people. I’m not sure why but I find the people of Cimarron to have a humorous, sarcastic edge to them that I love. The area was originally the homeland of the Jicarilla Apache. Later, Cimarron was a main stop on the Santa Fe Trail and a gathering place for explorers and fur trappers. In the summer I normally sleep west of town up the canyon in the state park and the Colin Neblett Wildlife Area. The Cimarron River is a great one for fly fishing. But this November night is chilly and I bed down at the Historic St. James Hotel where history can’t be missed. Bullet holes from century-old gunfights still dot the hotel walls. After some chile rellenos and a visit to the little bar where Black Jack Ketchum and Wyatt Earp enjoyed a whiskey between shootouts I bed down and close my eyes against any roaming ghosts.
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A chilly morning demands more coffee and another breakfast burrito at the St. James before heading south through dramatic ranchlands that stretch from the base of the mountains to the end of the horizon to the east. The rugged tableland where mountains meet prairies is the home of Las Vegas, one of the best-preserved Victorian towns in the country. Over 1,000 of the buildings in Las Vegas are on the National Register of Historic Places and it is easy to see why. Originally a Hispanic farming village, the traders along the Santa Fe Trail opened it up to the outside world. The railroad came soon after the American invasion and the sleepy SKICOUNTRY 2014
little village became a major hub for train travel throughout the southwest. By the 1870s Las Vegas was known as the “Wildest of the Wild West” and it was booming. The old monastery of Montezuma’s Castle is worth the visit. As is the Historic Plaza Hotel, well known as one of the most haunted buildings in the country. I head west of town and spend the day hiking Hermit’s Peak, an 8-mile trail up the 10,200-foot mountain. The reward? One of the most incredible views in the state.
CLAYTON Travelers on the Santa Fe Trail often spent the night at the Native American village at the Clayton Cutoff. Over time a little way-station and then a town developed. The town was officially established in the 1870s and served as a shipping center for livestock raised on the surrounding ranchlands. This is the wide-open Great Plains of northeastern New Mexico. I’m a mountain boy but I love coming this far east for the wide vistas, the seemingly endless grasslands and the Old West flavor. In the 1930s the Works Progress Administration (WPA) helped to keep Clayton alive by injecting Federal dollars for construction projects. A number of these buildings still survive and are well worth seeing, as is the little museum dedicated to those projects. I also like to see the wind turbines popping up all over the Great Plains. Graceful and enchanting, the giant turbines tell the latest tale of the Great Plains. Green energy is bringing a new source of revenue at jobs.
TAOS SKI VALLEY Tucked way back up in the valley at the very base of the highest peaks in the state northeast of New Mexico is the little town known for its world-famous gnarly skiing. From beginners slopes and family-oriented tubing to the steeps and chutes that keeps the hard core coming back for more and more and more, Taos Ski Valley is yet another northern New Mexico mecca for winter fun. Over the past few years the town has been expanding and updating its facilities and going green with a mountainwide recycling and energy conservation program. Back home in Taos and the snow is starting to fall. I have no desire to cook so I drop into Orlando’s and fill my belly with a bowl of a meat red chile and maize kernel stew called posole. I top that off with honey-filled sopaipillas and I’m set. This is comfort food to we Taoseños, a good thing to load up on as a wet winter storm rolls in. I know I’ll wake up to fresh snow and I’ll be thinking about my little trip around northern New Mexico – and I’ll be thankful for the luck life gave me when it made this my home. Jim O’Donnell is the three-legged love child of a band of circus players and itinerate beer makers from the grassy plains of Belarus. He over-winters in Murmansk with his pet parrot and a naked mole rat named Steve. Jim’s book Notes for the Aurora Society is available from Amazon. Visit his website: www.aroundtheworldineightyyears.com
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PURE BLISS
32km Machine Groomed Trails 15km Snowshoe Trails 5km Trails for Dogs
Day Lodge • Full Rental Shop • Snack Bar XC Skiwear & Supplies Christmas Luminaria Tour Moonlight Ski Tours Headlamp Snowshoe Tours Overnight Yurt Rentals
Bobcat Pass, Red River, NM
www.EFXC.com
575.754.6112
Like Stepping Into An Alpine Fairy Tale. – New York Times
Top 10 Ski Getaways —Mountain Living Top 100 Favorite Restaurants in the World —Robb Report
Genuine Bavarian Cuisine German Beers on Tap Magnificent Sundeck Views Gateway to Wheeler Peak Wilderness Mountain Weddings / Group Functions Swiss Fondue Night on Tuesdays
575 . 7 76 . 8 02 0 | TAO S S K I VA L L E Y, N E W M E X I CO
W W W.T H E B AVA R I A N . C O M
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Winter Restaurant Hours: Open 7 days | Lunch 11:30–3:30 Aprés Ski 3:30–5:30 Dinner 5:30–til closing
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sauce makes the difference!” Authentic Mexican food in New Mexico. Seafood, Chile Rellenos, Azteca Quesadilla, Camarones a la Diabla, Ceviche and so much more. Beer, Wine, Agave Margaritas. Winter hours: Sun 10:30-8:30 pm. Fri-Sat 10:30 to 9 pm. Open 7 days a week. See our full menu online: GuadalajaraGrillTaos.com
DINING favorites like buffalo, elk, trout. Delectable desserts. Lunch, dinner, weekend brunch. BENT STREET CAFE & DELI – 120 Bent Street, Taos. Reservations recommended. DocMartinsRestaurant.com 575-758-5787. A local favorite with menu selections to satisfy every palate. Served in a FARMHOUSE CAFE AND relaxed atmosphere featuring BAKERY – Three miles a year-round heated patio and north of Taos Plaza at Overoutdoor terrace. Omelettes, land Ranch. 575-758-LOVE eggs Benedict, gourmet French (5863). Farm-to-table, serving toast, excellent sandwiches, local organic cuisine. Try our creative salads and homemade legendary grass-fed burger, soups and desserts. Daily spegreen chile chicken stew or cials, chicken or beef burrito daily quiche. House-made and tamales plates. Vegetarian soups, salads and a variety of & vegan friendly. Beer & wine. vegetarian, vegan, and glutenOpen 7 days for breakfast, free options. Our bakery fealunch, and Sunday brunch. tures an incredible assortment BentStreetDeli.com of artisan breads, croissants, tarts, muffins, cheesecakes, DOC MARTIN’S cookies and more. Specialty RESTAURANT – 1/2 block N coffees and fresh organic grabof Taos Plaza in the Historic and-go items. Open 8 am-3 pm Taos Inn, 575-758-1977. Tues-Sat, 10 am-3 pm Mon. Fresh, fine dining in a casual, Breakfast, lunch and extended historic setting. Winner of Wine hours. Visit us online at Spectator’s “Best Of Award Of FarmhouseCafeAndBakery.com Excellence” for 25 consecutive years. Chef “Zippy” White GUADALAJARA GRILL – creates innovative Regional Two locations in Taos: SouthNew American Cuisine using side – 1384 Paseo del Pueblo the freshest local ingredients, Sur. 575-751-0063. Northside specializing in organic vegeta- – 822 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. bles, meats and fish, including 575-737-0816. “Our secret
TAOS
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LAMBERT’S OF TAOS – 123 Bent Street. 575-7581009. New location in the old Apple Tree Restaurant. Voted “Best of Taos: Best Restaurant.” Beautiful patio, remodeled dining rooms, Treehouse Bar & Lounge upstairs. Our emphasis has always been on quality and value. Sauces made from scratch (such as lamb demi-glace). Extensive wine list and specialty cocktails. Excellent service, distinctive and fresh cuisine, unpretentious atmosphere. Open 7 days. Lunch 11:30 - 2:30, dinner 5:30. The Treehouse opens 5 pm. LambertsOfTaos.com
MARTYR’S STEAKHOUSE – Located two blocks north of Taos Plaza. 575-751-3020. Experience a glimpse of the 1920s as you slip through the doors of Martyrs Steakhouse and allow our attentive staff to tantalize your taste buds with incomparable food and wine. Experience our huge selection of fine wines, beers, and freshly house infused liquors. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Visit us online: Martyrs-Steakhouse.com
312 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. 575758-1156. A locals’ favorite. Breakfast, lunch and dinner specials daily. Great New Mexican and American dishes at family oriented prices. Kid’s menu available. 80% of our dishes available vegetarian. Dine in or take out. Open 7 days from 7 am to 8 pm.
TAOS PIZZA OUT BACK – 712 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. 575-758-3112. We start each morning with organic flour and fresh produce to create our acclaimed hand-rolled pizzas. Our reclaimed adobe abode is the perfect setting for fun, foam and feasting. Enjoy a unique Taos experience where the three local cultures relax and mingle with international travelers. Open daily 11 am. TaosPizzaOutback.com
RED RIVER CAPO’S CORNER – 110 Pioneer Road. 575-754-6297. Voted “Best of Taos” for Pizza! A true ristorante Italiano, Capo’s offers authentic Italian recipes, great prices and superior service. Menu also includes pizza, ribs, steaks, hamburgers and sandwiches. Beer and wine available. Enjoy family fun dining with great views. Carry out, banquet room facilities, pizza to go, kids’ menu. Reservations for large parties available. Hours: 11:30 - 2 pm lunch; 5-9 pm dinner. Espresso, cappuccino starting at 7 am. Free Internet WiFi.
SUNDANCE – High Street at RICKY’S – Located 2 1/2 blocks south of Taos Plaza at
Copper King. 575-754-2971. Same great food, same great SKICOUNTRY 2014
service. Celebrating our 40th year. Steaks, salads and excellent Mexican food. Great sopaipillas! Specials include: shrimp fajitas and quesadillas. Frozen wine Margaritas. Reservations welcome. Call for to-go orders. Open nightly at 5 pm.
authentic dishes, made fresh daily. From Breakfast Burritos, Grilled Avocado Appetizer, and Hatcha’s Smothered Enchiladas to the best Grilled Trout this side of the Pecos. Now offering chiles and salsas in a jar, from our kitchen to yours.
ANGEL FIRE
LEGENDS GRILL – Located on the second floor of The Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-377-4201. For the whole family. Proudly serving 1/2 lb. Angus beef burgers, sandwiches, salads, pastas, chicken fried steak and more. Great selection of craft beers on tap. Sports on the big screens! Open daily 4 pm-9 pm.
ANGEL FIRED PIZZA – Located on the second floor of the Mountain View mall (next to the Lowe’s Valley market). 575-377-2774. Voted “Best of Angel Fire.” We serve specialty pizzas, baked pastas, calzones, and salads all in a fun relaxed atmosphere. Gluten-free options are available. A wide selection of handcrafted beers and fine wines is available. Dine in or take out. Open Tues-Sun 11 am-9 pm. Daily Happy Hour.
ANNIE’S COFFEE HOUSE – Located in the lobby of The Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-377-4234. Serving Starbucks coffee! Specialty coffees, smoothies, and freshly baked goods daily. The Coffee House dishes up delicious full breakfasts and lunches, including homemade breakfast burritos (a local favorite), tasty omelets cooked to order, gourmet paninis and sandwiches, fresh salads and homemade dressings. Beer, wine and spirits also available. Open daily 7 am - 4 pm, with extended hours during peak periods.
ELEMENTS AT THE COUNTRY CLUB – Located on the upper level of the Angel Fire Resort Country Club. 575377-3055. Open to the public year-round. Enjoy mountain-view fine dining, great appetizers, a full bar and wine selection, private dining rooms and group event spaces. Dining room is open Tuesday-Saturday 5 pm - 9 pm. Bar and lounge is open Tuesday-Saturday 4 pm - close.
HATCHA’S GRILL – 3453 Mountain View Blvd., Suite D. 575-377-7011. Welcome home to the best of northern New Mexican cuisine. Three generations of www.hawk-media.com
PUB ‘N GRUB – Located at the Angel Fire Village Center Plaza on N. Angel Fire Road. 575-377-2335. A family-friendly pub with 20 craft beers on tap including a draft style root beer. Fine dining with gourmet chefs in a rustic yet casual environment. Open every day during winter ski season, 3 pm until close. Monday: 1/2 lb. burger night, $9.95; Thursday: rib-eye night, $15.
SUNSET GRILL – 10 Five Springs Road across from Chile Express Chairlift. 575-377-6681. Lunch menu includes appetizers, homemade soups, burgers, sandwiches, and salads. Dinner entrées include steak, chicken, fish, and pasta dishes. Full bar, fine wine, and beers on tap. Kid’s menu.
‘The living room of Taos’ e
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MOST AWARDED TAOS BUSINESS! TAOS LOCALS VOTED US:
BEST of TAOS 2013 BEST LIVE MUSIC VENUE BEST HAPPY HOUR BEST BAR
Q
BEST MARGARITA BEST PATIO
CIMARRON SAINT JAMES HOTEL – 17th and Collison in Cimarron. Reservations recommended. 575-376-2664. Landmark on the Santa Fe Trail, the St. James has been known for its fine dining since 1872. Menu includes hand cut steaks, New Mexico favorites, homemade soups and desserts. Select from a variety of beers, fine wines or a specially-made cocktail all, served from the antique bar. New breakfast menu. Open daily 7 am - 9 pm. Visit us online at ExStJames.com
575 758 2233 AdobeBar.com in the Historic Taos Inn 125 Paseo del Pueblo Norte
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2013-2014
winter
CALENDAR
dec 1 - College Day, Wolf Creek Ski Area 1, 7-8 - Taos Community Chorus concert, First Pres Church, Taos 6 - Festival of Trees, Pagosa Springs 6-8 - Race Camp with UNM, Red River Ski Area 6 & 8 - Snowsports Instructors Academy, Taos Ski Valley 6-15 - Deal Daze at Red River Ski Area 7 - Free Learn to Cross Country Ski Clinic, Pagosa Springs (ongoing) 7 - Sweaty Santa 3k & 5k Fun Run/Walk, Pagosa Springs 7 - Annual Lighting of Ledoux St., Taos 7 - Ladies’ Ski/Board Clinic, Wolf Creek (ongoing) 7 - Christmas Festival in the Mountains, Chama 7-8 - Snowshoe Race Clinic & Fun Run, Enchanted Forest XC Ski Area 8 - Telemark Clinic, Wolf Creek 8 - College Day, Wolf Creek 10 - Senior Ski / Board Clinic, Wolf Creek 11 - Local Appreciation Day, Wolf Creek 14 - Fun Race, 1 of 10 weekly, Wolf Creek 13 - Angel Fire Resort Opening Day 14 - Bonfires on Bent Street, Taos 14 - Free Moonlight Hike & Campfire, Sipapu Ski lodge 14-15 - Taos Chamber Music concert, Harwood Museum 14-15 - Holiday Market, Angel Fire Community Center 15 - Colorado Nordic Ski Challenge Season Opener, Pagosa Springs 17 - Enchanted Forest XC Moonlight Ski & Snowshoe Dinner Tour 18 & 25 - Ski Apache Vertical Challenge GPS Competition 19-Jan 4 - Holiday Tubing, TSV 20 - Never Summer Snowboard Demo, Sipapu Resort 20-21 - Demo Days, Taos Ski Valley 21 - 7th Annual Brewmaster’s Festival, Taos Ski Valley 21 - Ski Apache Star Race Course opens 21 - Dummy Gelunde Jump, Ski Apache 21 - Torchlight Parade, Ski Apache 22 - World Snowboard Day, Sipapu 24 - Christmas Eve Party, Sipapu 24 - Christmas Eve torchlight parades and fireworks, all ski areas 24 - Christmas Eve Vespers, Taos Pueblo and Picuris Pueblos 25 - Christmas Luminaria Ski/Snowshoe Tour, Red River Ski Area
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24-25 - Ski and Snowboard with Santa, most ski areas 25 - Deer or Matachines Dance, Taos Pueblo 26 - Deer Dance, San Juan Pueblo 26 - Telemark Ski Week, Taos Ski Valley 28, Jan 4, Jan 11 - Jib and Jab Terrain Park Event, Ski Apache 31 - New Year’s celebrations & torchlight parades, all ski areas 31 - Old Fashioned New Year’s Eve Party, Red River Ski Area 31 - New Year’s Eve Potluck, Enchanted Forest XC Ski Area
jan 1 - Turtle Dance, Taos Pueblo 1 - Polar Bear Plunge, Eagle Nest 1-31 - January Bargain Days, Red River 4 - Free Canine Skijoring Demo Day, Clinic and Fun Race, Pagosa Springs 6 - Buffalo Dance, Taos Pueblo 6 - King’s Day, Picuris Pueblo 4 - USASA Gold Rush Rail Jam, Red River 5-15 - College Days at Red River Ski Area 10 - Moon Rise/Sunset Cross Country Ski Social, Enchanted Forest 10-20 - Winter Carnival & Parade of Ice, Red River Ski Area 11 - Camp Robbers, week 1 of 10, Wolf Creek (ongoing) 11-12 - Taos Chamber Music concert, Harwood Museum 12 - Race Week, Taos Ski Valley 12 - Telemark Clinic, Wolf Creek 12 - College Day, Wolf Creek 13 - South Fork Town Christmas Party 15 - United Way Day, Wolf Creek 15 - Tubing all week except Mon-Tues, Taos Ski Valley (ongoing) 16 - President’s Day Race, Wolf Creek 16 - Moonlight Ski and Snowshoe Dinner Tour, Enchanted F orest XC Ski area 18 - Winter Carnival Snowmobile Hill Climb, Red River 18 - Telemark Festival, Sipapu 18 - Santa Fe Brewing Happy Hops Scavenger Hunt, Sipapu 18 - Freeheel Fray Telemark Race, Sipapu 18-19 - Annual Chama Chili Ski Classic 19 - Martin Luther King Jr. Race, South Fork 22 - Local Appreciation Day (ongoing) 24-26 - Big Ol’ Texas Weekend, Angel Fire Resort 24 - Boot Scootin’ Barn Dance & BBQ, Angel Fire Community Ctr
25 - UNM Ultimate Ski and Snowboard Challenge, Angel Fire Resort 25 - King of the Hill Terrain Park Competition, Sipapu 25-26 - USASA Snowboard Slalom & GS, Red River Ski Area 25-26 - Low O2 Challenge Ski Race / USSSA Nationals Qualifier Snowshoe Race, Enchanted Forest XC 25-26 - SkiBike Festival, Sipapu 29-Feb 1 - Winter Wine Fest, Taos Ski Valley & Taos
feb 1 - Winter Wine Festival Grand Tasting, Taos Ski Valley 2 - Mardi Gras Parade, Angel Fire 2 - Superbowl party at Legends Grill, Angel Fire Resort 2 - Super Bowl Race, Wolf Creek Ski Area 2 - Superbowl Giveaway, Sipapu Resort 7-8 - Angel Fire Shovel Race Championships, AF Resort 8 - 3rd Annual Snowman Stomp Snowshoe Romp Race, Pagosa Springs 8 - Ice Fishing Tournament, Eagle Nest Lake State Park 7-8 - UNM Invitational Home Meet & Collegiate Races, Red River Ski Area 7-8 - UNM Lobo Invitational Collegiate Races, Enchanted Forest 14 - Moon Rise/Sunset Cross Country Ski Social, Pagosa Springs 14-16 - Winterfest Weekend 2014, Pagosa 15 - Moonlight Hike and Campfire 15 - Moguls/Steeps Camp, Taos Ski Valley 15-17 - February Fun Fest, Sipapu 15-16 - Taos Chamber Music concert, Harwood Museum 22 - Just Desserts Eat & Ski, Red River 22 - USASA Red River Rampage Slopestyle, Red River Ski Area 22 - K Bumps Challenge & Paint for the Peaks Art Auction benefit, TSV 22 - Breast Cancer Awareness Day, TSV 22-23 - Chama Balloon Fest
info
27 - Mardi Gras in the Mountains, Red River Ski Area 27-28 - Salomon Extreme Freeride Championships, Taos Ski Valley
mar 1 - Mardi Gras Race, Wolf Creek 1 - Telemark Fiesta, Taos Ski Valley 2 - Pagosa Springs XC Quad Challenge 4 - Senior ski/board clinic, Wolf Creek 8 - Ernie Blake’s Birthday Torchlight Parade and Fireworks 8 - Spring Beer Festival, TSV 8 - Moguls/Steeps Camp, Taos Ski Valley 8-9 - Wood Ski Weekend, Enchanted Forest 8-9 - Hawaiian Days, Sipapu 15 - Annual Cardboard Derby, Sipapu 9-22 - Beach Weeks, Red River 10-15 - Spring Break Tubing, TSV 12 - Spring Break Torchlight Parade, Red River 14 - Kids Glow Stick Parade, Red River 14 - Moon Rise/Sunset Cross Country Ski Social, Pagosa Springs 15 - We Be Jammin’ Rail Jam, Red River 15 - Spring Fling Race, Wolf Creek 16-17 - Taos Chamber Music concert, Harwood Museum 20-23 - Taos Shortz Film Festival 21-22 - Ben Myers Ridgeathon, TSV 22-23 - Dog Days at the Enchanted Forest, Red River 22 - Moonlight Ski and Snowshoe Dinner Tour, Enchanted Forest XC 23 - Angel Fire Resort Closing Day 23 - End of Season Pond Skim, Red River 23 - Closing Day, Enchanted Forest XC 30 - Closing Day, Sipapu
apr
6 - Closing Day, Wolf Creek Ski Area 6 - Fun Race #10 of 10, Wolf Creek 6 - Bud Light Pond Skimming championships, Taos Ski Valley 26 - Tierra Wools Spring Harvest, Chama
Dates subject to change. Check with local chambers for updated calendar information.
Angel Fire 800-446-8117 Chama Valley 800-477-0149 Durango 970-247-3500 Eagle Nest 800-494-9117 Pagosa Springs 800-252-2204 Red River 800-348-6444
Ruidoso 877-784-3676 Santa Fe 800-777-2489 South Fork 800-571-0881 Taos County 800-732-8267 Taos Pueblo 575-758-1028
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Crafting comfort for over 30 years.
It’s our nature.
Directed by you.
575.377.6456 ph
575.377.3822 fx
po box 303 angel fire nm 87710 shuterconstruction.com shuter@taosnet.com
SHUTER CONSTRUCTION
lic #90984 www.hawk-media.com
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SKICOUNTRY 2014