SkiCountry WINTER 201 7
Angel Fire Chama Durango Eagle Nest Pajarito Red River Sipapu Ski Apache South Fork Taos Taos Ski Valley Wolf Creek
GUIDE TO SKIING THE SOUTHWEST
Skovhuus SWEATERS Great GEAR Angel Fire’s Top Shop Near the Resort Hotel wintersportsskishop.com 575.377.6612
Ski Rental Hotline: 575.377.6559
SKI AS MUCH AS YOU WANT, WHEN YOU WANT, WHERE YOU WANT.
THE POWER TO CHOOSE FOUR MOUNTAINS. ONE PASS. UNLIMITED POSSIBLITIES. MORE THAN 3,000 ACRES OF TERRAIN • 29 LIFTS • OVER 200 TRAILS • 13 TERRAIN PARKS • COUNTLESS FAMILY MEMORIES
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Welcome
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Purgatory, Sipapu, Pajarito
Historic Hotels
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Ski Apache, Enchanted Forest XC
Our Towns 10
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Alpine Lodges
Pueblo Pottery
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The Wild Ones – A Nature Special
Ski the Southwest
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Time to Dine
Taos Ski Valley, Angel Fire Resort 20
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Calendar
Wolf Creek Ski Area, Red River Ski Area 21
Publisher/Editor Joe Haukebo Design/Production Digerati Design Advertising Sales Christine Pedler Contributing Writers John Biscello, Phaedra Greenwood, Michele Potter Photography Angel Fire Resort, Carol Morgan Eagle, Klaus Preibe, Geraint Smith Cover Photo Geraint Smith – Bull Bison
HighCountry and SkiCountry Visitor Guides are published by Hawk Media. All rights reserved. Material in this publication may not be reproduced in any form without written permission from the Publisher. Requests for permission should be directed to: Hawk Media PO Box 182, Angel Fire, NM 87710 575 595 0575 | 575 758 4047 info@hawk-media.com Visit us at hawk-media.com for more articles, photos & e-zines
Contents
Angel Fire
866.668.7787 AngelFireFun.com 6
Welcome to the mountains…
N
amaste! I just got back from Nepal, a place I’ve always dreamed of. It is home to the world’s highest mountains. I envisioned the impressive photographs I’d take. But when they say you go for the mountains and come back for the people, they are right. When my longtime pal Mary Jo invited me to join a women’s trekking group, I finally got my chance. She’s a great traveller: inquisitive, generous, and organized, whereas I am only inquisitive. I am also acquisitive, greedy about experiences, conversations—and photographs. A joke from the film era: a man is asked how his vacation was. He says, “I don’t know; I don’t have the pictures back yet.” But I say there’s a difference between vacations and journeys. Vacations end; journeys continue. With Mary Jo’s longtime friends and guides, Lakhbir and his wife Chodi at Nature Adventures Trekking, we will camp in October (erroneously reported as “crystal clear”) in the Solukhumbu region, in the foothills of the Himalayas, sometimes staying at rustic teahouses. We’ll visit the school we’re supporting, and Lakhbir and Chodi’s homes. It will be an intimate cultural journey. Everest Base Camp Trek it is not. There is just one rule: no whining. As a mother of three sons, a women’s trek sounds like a trip off the planet, and for most of us (ages 52-78) it’s a pilgrimage. And then, one day, we are there. Flying out of Kathmandu, we scan the land below, the crazy uptilt of the world’s biggest tectonic crash. Rivers rush wildly into the chaos. There’s nothing flat in this beautiful impoverished and earthquake-shaken land but hand-built green terraces— and the tiny Phaplu airstrip. We pray for a safe landing. Ironically, Sir
Edmond Hillary climbed the world’s highest summit and lost his wife and daughter here. Two thousand (okay, maybe 40) porters greet us with generous smiles and “namasate’s.” In a reversal of male stereotypes, the “boys” (some just 16) will carry, cook, clean, put up tents, make tea and tend to us. “The world begins and ends right here,” I think, as we settle into a rhythm: Eat. Walk. Talk. Take pictures. Repeat. My camera’s digital eye absorbs lush images: cosmos, oxen, and waning gardens. A child in pink pajamas hides behind her mother’s leg. Bigger kids, walking to school through rhododendron forests, holler “Hello! How are you!” and giggle. Mangy dogs nap in blue doorways (Nepalese blue not unlike Taos blue ones). We’re caught between a herd of goats and a mule train—a Nepalese traffic jam. I panic. How will I capture, collect, keep? How will I know I was here? Memory slides and slips, like we do on the muddy hillsides. We try anchoring ourselves with trekking poles. A small barefoot boy climbs up the trail, dwarfed beneath the enormous basket of firewood on his back. Spying us, he drops the bundle, sliding otterlike down the mud: whooping, hollering, showing off. I recall the sharp scent of ceremonial marigold wreaths hung solemnly about our necks by school kids; I hear their laughter afterwards as they crush us at volleyball. I recall prayer flags fluttering at 15,000 feet, at turquoise Milky Lake (like Taos Pueblo’s own sacred Blue Lake) at the foot of snowy, glowing Numbur Himal. I remember monasteries: the din of chanting, horns, and conch shells. The sound of silvery crescendos of bells at the Tibetan Refugee Camp, evoking birds rising from a clear, still lake. I think of the nuns, with shaved heads and aubergine robes. I remember falling SKICOUNTRY 2017
flat on my face after tripping over a tent stake in the rainy dark after hiking eleven hours and saying “I’m fine.” I also remember sobbing privately in my tent. No matter. I was merely pushing one of life’s emotional reset buttons. Experiences become inextricably bound up with places, like “Yakitori Promontory”: where the clouds below boiled up like actual gilt-edged beings so animate I wanted to name each one. I remember waking up in a soggy cold tent surrounded by yak crap (minus the “pies” we’d thrown off, like Frisbees, the night before), feeling so happy I thought the tent would levitate. And I remember our last night back in Phaplu, all us of singing and dancing together under the full moon. Then, like the clouds, my new best friends vanished back in Kathmandu. “Be careful what you wish for,” I thought, after I’d opted for a week by myself. Too late: my worst fears of being sick and alone on the other side of the world manifested with the onslaught of giardia. Too sick too move, I learned that miracles can manifest too. I was saved by tiny blue pills from a pharmacy, wrapped in scraps of the Kathmandu Post. I was also saved by books. The legendary Pilgrims Bookstore had literally risen from its ashes and relocated right down the block. I read about a place called Nagarkot an hour or two away. From Dhaulagiri to Mt. Everest to Kachenjunga the list of who’s who in famous mountain peaks can all be seen from there. I am soon underway. The road becomes steep, rutted, impeded with goats. The driver asks, “Where?” I say, “The Hotel at the End of the Universe,” because it’s the only place name I remember. At last. I hike up to a funky-cute mix of bamboo and earth buildings, not unlike Taos Earthships. And they let me in. Meanwhile, I have gone, quite literally, to the ends of the earth, lured by the grand views which I think are necessary to complete my experience. The mountains stayed stubbornly shrouded. But I had already seen Numbur Himal and Milky Lake, the most beautiful place in the world. Next to home, that is. Welcome to the Southern Rockies. Adventure happens when life isn’t going according to plan. Have some expectations dashed, others exceeded. Make new friends. Maybe even get to know your own self again. You’ve arrived at just the perfect place—and time for it. Let the journey begin.
The life up high cross country snowmobile snowboard sleigh ride snowshoe downhill ice fish shop tube dine sled
Angel Fire is
—Michele Potter, PhD hawk-media.com
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Historic Hotels Hotel La Fonda de Taos The oldest hotel in Taos is new again. In the heart of the historic district on Taos Plaza, La Fonda offers 21st Century amenities while preserving its rich Southwestern roots and ambience. Home to Noula’s Starbucks Coffee Shop and D.H. Lawrence’s “Forbidden Art Collection.” Nineteen rooms, 5 suites, and our Plaza Penthouse. Friendly, personal service. Walking distance to galleries, museums, shopping, entertainment, and fine dining.
108 SOUTH PLAZA, TAOS, NM WWW.LAFONDATAOS.COM 800.833.2211 505.758.2211
The Historic Taos Inn
Experience Southwestern charm and history at The Historic Taos Inn in the heart of Taos, New Mexico. Acclaimed by National Geographic Traveler as “One of America’s Great Inns,” and listed on the National and NM Registers of Historic Places. 44 rooms and suites, most with Pueblo-style fireplaces. Award-winning Doc Martin’s Restaurant and The Adobe Bar on premises. Happy hour 4-6 Monday-Friday; free live music nightly.
125 PASEO DEL PUEBLO NORTE, TAOS, NM TAOSINN.COM 575.758.2233
St. James Hotel
Where western history – and the paranormal – come alive. The historic St. James Hotel, built in 1872, has hosted a smorgasbord of famous outlaws and Wild West legends including Clay Allison, William F. Cody and Wyatt Earp. Today, it continues its tradition with fine dining and comfortable rooms and a restored western restaurant and bar. Ghosts, each with their own obsessions and rituals, are said to still haunt the place.
617 SOUTH COLLISON, CIMARRON, NM 87714 WWW.EXSTJAMES.COM 888.376.2664 575.376.2664
PHOTO: WWW.CAROLMORGANEAGLE.COM
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SKICOUNTRY 2017
Discover
ANGEL FIRE RESORT Uncrowded Slopes Miles of Groomers New Terrain Park with Dedicated Lift Panoramic Views New Mexico’s Only Nighttime Skiing
angelfireresort.com
866-383-7969
Home of the World Championship Shovel Races February 3-4, 2017 hawk-media.com
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SKICOUNTRY 2017
Our Towns
KLAUS PRIEBE
I
t was a glacial Tuesday when The Hawk entered my office. His earlobes, burnt by the cold, were bright pink flesh-dollops, and his eyebrows were frozen in a quizzical arch. “Salvatore,” he said, dropping a manila folder onto my desk, “I need you to find me an angle.” “Right or equilateral?” I quipped. “I see you watch a lot of movies,” he said. “What I need,” he explained, “is a new angle, a fresh angle, in profiling Northern New Mexico and the Southern Rockies. Not the run-of-the-mill tourist doggerel, ya know?” I knew. I had worked with The Hawk on other cases, our relationship was seasonal, and I knew that perspective alignment meant a great deal to him. “You up for it?” Hawk pressed. Was I up for it? That was a good question. Even though I had geographically moved on, bits of my shattered heart still called New Mexico home, after I fell hard for the wrong dame in a strange town. Or maybe it was a strange dame in the wrong town. Hard to keep these things straight. Still, I needed the money, and my fondness for that region had never wavered. “I’m your man.” I shook Hawk’s hand. “But I’ll need a retainer… for hot chocolate. And plenty of it. It’s cold out there.” Hawk, as always, was prepared to accommodate my request, and he dropped an envelope on top of the manila folder. “There’s a little extra in there… for marshmallows.” Hawk shot me a wink and walked out the door. Before starting, I knew I’d need a soundtrack. I got up, placed a record onto my turntable, and “Love’s Old Sweet Song,” hawk-media.com
Angel Fire
as crooned by legendary Irish tenor, John McCormack, settled over me like molasses. I opened the manila folder and looked at the list of names: Taos. Angel Fire. Red River. Taos Pueblo. Taos Ski Valley. Durango. Chama. Eagle Nest. South Fork. Along with the list of names, there were photos and miscellaneous notes that were meant to titillate and stimulate my imagination. I tried to order and arrange the material into a relatable whole. TAOS. Breeding ground for misfit antics, incubator of the surreal and the sacred, the traditional and the unconventional. I recalled the town’s holiday spirit and winter celebrations, infused with three ethnic flavors—Native, Hispanic, and Anglo— the Las Posadas reenactment outside the historic San Francisco de Assis Church, and Christmas Eve at TAOS PUEBLO, when fire and smoke alchemized into a kind of winter sorcery. Winter in Taos made me think of Winter in Taos, a book written by Mabel Dodge Luhan and published in 1935. I grabbed my copy from the bookshelf and found the passage I had highlighted: “Then the sun was low and shining already below the branches of the cottonwood trees and turning the mountain into a big, crumpled rose. It is a lovely hour to walk about in the snow lanes, listening a little, for the bitterness of the night comes down fast. The air grows quiet. If there
Chama Durango Eagle Nest Red River South Fork Taos Taos Pueblo Taos Ski Valley
GERAINT SMITH
Continued on page 13 11
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SKICOUNTRY 2017
S NOW C OACH D INNER T OURS • S NOW T UBING • T ERRAIN P ARKS • F AMILY F UN
has been any wind it ceases and the snow squeaks under one’s feet and the telegraph wires sing a low song. It is sweet, but it is bitter, too.” As if on cue, the record scratched and began skipping. Not interested in hearing a remix, I got up and shut it off. I sat back down and read The Hawk’s notes about Taos Ski Valley’s continuing expansion under new ownership. New restaurants, spa, The Blake Hotel, etc. The photos he had included of TSV struck me as commemorative postcards for a Nordic playscape. I scribbled Asgard meets the Polar Express on an index card and moved on. ANGEL FIRE. I had once charged that town with celestial arson, due to its flame-throwing sunsets. I did it to impress a girl (see: Dame Referred To in Paragraph Four), but the charge didn’t stick, nor did the girl. So much for absurdist noir comedy. The sunsets, on the other hand, you can still depend upon for pyrotechnical splendor. I stared at the collage that Hawk had had his trusty assistant, Bee, assemble, comprising a sunburst of smiling children’s faces. These “mug shots” had been snapped while children were gliding down the snow-slicked mountain on a tube, courtesy of the Polar Coaster, Angel Fire’s tubing park, and in the many terrain parks there. By the way, Angel Fire Resort celebrates 50 years this year. And check out the chapel and visitor center at Vietnam Veterans Memorial State Park. RED RIVER. Somewhere between a hoedown and a showdown. Okay, so maybe bumper stickers or tourist taglines aren’t my specialty, but you get the idea. The ingredients are there for Tex-centric fare: Main Street, Stetsons, tight-fitting denim, hearty back-slaps. I flashed back to that young man I had hawk-media.com
met at Red River’s New Year’s Eve bash back in 2012, and how, beaming a highwattage boomerang of a grin, he had said, “I’m not here for a long time, I’m here for a good time.” (Which I found to be an interesting response, in that I had simply asked him his name). William Faulkner said, “The past is never dead. It’s not even past.” That claim could be echoed by the ghosts of CHAMA’s flinty boomtown past, or by the steam-engine locomotive that continues to rumble along the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. Recalling my experience with ice fishing at Heron Lake Reservoir, I scribbled on a Post-It: Chama, a tough old broad with ice in her veins and fire in her belly.
buttery voice oozed from the speakers. I reminisced on the metaphysical bender I had experienced in Purgatory (which also happens to be the name of Durango’s mountain resort, featuring 35,000 acres of ski terrain). It was true. The devil did sometimes come in a blue dress. SOUTH FORK is San Luis Valley’s winter snowsports adventure base, just down the pass from Wolf Creek Ski Area, known for the most snow in Colorado, averaging over 430 inches per year. Explore the backcountry on skis, snowshoes, or snowmobiles, or try nearby ice fishing. Known to be super affordable and uncrowded, South Fork has all kinds of lodging options
GERAINT SMITH
It’s been a while since anyone seriously mined Baldy, and gambling here is a thing of the past, but there’s still gold in EAGLE NEST – the lake sports some of the best trout fishing in the state. Eagle Nest Dam and the lake celebrate their 100th anniversary this year. I scanned some of Hawk’s notes on DURANGO, and when I read that HG-TV had ranked it one of the “Top Ten Christmas Towns in America,” my calculated stoicism melted in a wash of nostalgia. I got up and put on my White Christmas album. Bing’s cream-
and all the amenities of a quaint mountain town. Okay then. I had the “facts” at my disposal, begging to be profiled in a harmonious make-over. I sharpened my #2 pencil and began writing in hopes of finding the angle that would keep me in cocoa for the duration of winter. John Biscello has lived in Taos since 2001. He is the author of two novels— Broken Land, A Brooklyn Tale and Raking the Dust—plus a collection of stories, Freeze Tag. 13
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SKICOUNTRY 2017
Pueblo Indian pottery – a polished art
S
an Ildefonso Pueblo, north of Santa Fe off Highway 502, stands in quiet simplicity beside the Rio Grande at the foot of stately Black Mesa as it has since 1300 A.D. The natives of this pueblo migrated from the Mesa Verde area to the rugged and beautiful canyon of Bandelier on the mesa above Los Alamos where they lived in multi-story dwellings carved out of the soft volcanic tuff. During a prolonged drought they climbed down to live beside the Rio Grande. They are one of the Eight Northern Pueblos; their language is Tewa. Cultural tradition means a lot to San Ildefonso, which has approximately
shards. To help revive this technique, he turned to potter Maria Martinez, who experimented until she rediscovered the process and developed the BlackOn-Black technique. She painted her coiled pots with a special red clay slip, immersed them in a cool fire and smothered them in dried cow manure. This reduction technique turned her red pot pitch black. Maria produced her fine pottery in partnership with her husband Julian who painted them until his death in 1943. He was a janitor at the Museum of New Mexico where he and his wife studied Indian pottery styles, forms and techniques.
20th Century. Maria was generous with her skills, willing to teach anyone who was interested. Her artistic techniques were passed down, generation by generation, first to her niece, Carmelita Dunlop. Maria raised Carmelita from a young age and Carmelita called Maria “grandmother.” Dunlop passed her skills to her daughter, Martha Appleleaf, and Appleleaf to her son Erik Fender, aka Sun Bird. Appleleaf said,“I grew up with pottery all around me. We would sit in a circle and make pots. We women would polish each other’s pots with stones. It didn’t matter whose pot it was.” Most of the women made pots
PHOTOS COURTESY CHIMAYO TRADING
750 enrolled members of the tribe. This pueblo is famous for producing elegant Black-on-Black pottery which Maria and Julian Martinez developed in the early 20th Century. Investigating an excavation, Dr. Edgar Hewett, an archeological professor, director of the Laboratory of Anthropology in Santa Fe, found some intriguing 17th Century black pottery
After her husband’s death, Maria worked with her two sons, Popovi Da and Adam and her daughter-in-law Santana. Greatly admired for her artistic skills, Maria Martinez was invited to the White House four times and received honorary doctorates from the University of Colorado and New Mexico State University. She is considered one of the most influential Native Americans of the
and also painted them, but during a long drought at San Ildefonso Pueblo, the men had nothing to do, Appleleaf explained, so they painted the pots for the women. Fender makes his own pots and also paints them. His signature style is Black-on-Black; the lighter part of the design displays a bluish tinge. Continued on page 17 15
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POTTERY – Continued from page 15
Some of the abstract designs used on the pots are based on figures they find in petroglyphs or forms such as feathers that they observe in nature. He sometimes marks the bottom of a pot with a tiny double cross. “It’s a dragonfly,” Fender said. “My daughter is named Dragonfly.” How do they create a perfectly symmetrical design that dances all the way around a pot? Fender said with a smile, “It takes a lot of practice. I looked at some of my earlier work, and… ugh! A line was off here, off there.” Fender is also an accomplished easel painter in both oil and acrylic. Back in the 1930s Dorothy Dunn, a teacher at the Santa Fe Indian School, established a painting program for Native American students to help them create an authentic ethnic identity by painting subjects from their own cultural traditions. The “flat style,” simple and often symmetrical, was called “Bambi art.” The San Ildefonso Self-Taught Group of Native American artists was encouraged by Dr. Hewett who connected them with white patrons. Julian Martinez, one of Dunn’s early students, went on to Los Angeles where he became an illustrator for the Walt Disney Studios. For generations, certain art dealers have encouraged and supported the work of Native Americans including Gabe Abrums, owner of Chimayo Trading del Norte on Saint Francis Plaza in Ranchos de Taos, (chimayotrading.com). The polished wooden floor creaks as you walk into the old adobe building with the low ceiling, like walking into a small, wellpreserved museum. It’s exciting to find yourself surrounded by beautiful Navajo
weavings; lapis lazuli, opal and gold bracelets made by Abrums; colorful prints and paintings and exquisite pottery, both old and modern. Abrums is the fourth-generation trader to specialize in the best contemporary Native American art which he displays side-by-side with classic antique pottery from pueblos such as Taos, Zuni and San Ildefonso. One of the glass cases holds shining black pottery made by Dunlop. The glass countertop displays the interspersed pottery of Appleleaf and Fender. Like their predecessors, both Fender and Appleleaf are always looking for innovative designs and techniques. Appleleaf said that when she was a girl she complained about her name. “Why did they name me Appleleaf?” She wanted a pretty name like her sister, Cynthia Starflower. But the name Appleleaf stuck and turned out to be prophetic. Her signature style is red pottery with a pale green design the color of an apple leaf, called Greenon-Red. Will these pottery skills be passed on to the next generation? Both Fender and his mother looked doubtful. “People come and say ‘Teach me how to make pottery,’” Fender said. “I tell them I can’t teach them because making pottery has to come from the heart. But I can show them how. I tell them, ‘The first day we will go out and collect the clay.’” “We don’t just take it,” Appleleaf interjected. “First we say a prayer to thank Mother Earth for letting us have her.” “Then we collect the volcanic ash to temper the clay so it won’t shrink and crack,” Fender continued. “Before we can use the clay and the ash, we have to sift and clean them.” “The clay requires so much work,”
Abrums explained. “Usually they let it sit and ferment for about a year before they use it.” The next step is to go out and collect the firewood that will be used to fire the ovens. “Some people get halfway into it and quit because it’s too much work,” Fender said. “They just want us to give them the clay so they can make it fast and make a lot of money. But that’s not how it works.” Appleleaf said the next step is to pulverize the clay, which they do by tromping on it barefoot. All the children join in. It’s a family thing. Fender added, “We’re not making pottery to get rich. We just want to be able to support our families and take care of our homes. But today the younger people all have those cell phones and they can’t put them down.” A handful of Native Americans at San Ildefonso Pueblo still make pottery. But will these skills be taken up by the next generation? “Everyone used to make pots,” Appleleaf said. “We had to. But now you can get a job and buy one.” Fender said he has been working to improve his skills for 27 years. He has won many awards including the Best of Division for ten years in a row at the Santa Fe Indian Market. He is currently working with a committee choosing pueblo pots from the Smithsonian collection to bring home to museums in New Mexico. Appleleaf said in a quiet tone, “We have pottery in many museums all over the country.” In 2012 Appleleaf won the Best Traditional Pueblo Pottery Award. She also won the Tony Da Lifetime Achievement Award two years in a row, a remarkable achievement. Phaedra Greenwood lives and writes in Taos, New Mexico.
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Sunday-Thursday November 27- March 2
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1 full day on the slopes for two includes:
• • • •
1 full day on the slopes for two includes:
Ski or snowboard rentals 2 lift tickets Transportation for 2 to and from Ski Apache 2-night stay in a Standard or Superior room (based on availability) • Breakfast Buffet for one day at Gathering of Nations Buffet • Lunch for 2, up to $30 for one day • Dinner for 2, up to $75 for one day
• • • •
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3-day package for 4 Thursday-Saturday or Saturday-Monday December 1- March 4
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Ski or snowboard rentals 2 lift tickets Transportation for 2 to and from Ski Apache 2-night stay in a Standard or Superior room (based on availability) • Breakfast Buffet for 2, for two days at Gathering of Nations Buffet • Lunch for 2, up to $30 for one day • Dinner for 2, up to $75 for one evening BOOK TODAY WITH RATE CODE: CAPWE
2 full days on the slopes for four includes:
• Ski or snowboard rentals (4 people for 2 days) • 4 lift tickets (4 people for 2 days) • Transportation for 4, to and from Ski Apache (4 people for 2 days) • 3-night stay in a Standard or Superior room (Based on availability. Two weekend nights and one weekday night.) • Breakfast Buffet for 4, for two days at Gathering of Nations Buffet • Lunch for 4, up to $120 for two days • Dinner for 4, up to $300 for two evenings
To book your stay today call 1-800-545-9011.
Ski Apache logo lockup positive read with stroke on dark background.
1-800-545-9011 | Alto, NM near Ruidoso *See InnoftheMountainGods.com for restrictions. *Plus tax and $13 resort fee added per night. Blackout dates apply.
a
a
WOLF CREEK SKI AREA
Durango • • Pagosa Springs
PURGATORY AT DURANGO MOUNTAIN RESORT
• South Fork
CO LO R A D O NEW MEXICO
RED RIVER SKI AREA
Chama •
a
• Taos
a
But nowhere in the world do you get our magical mix of Southwestern sun and snow, culture and cuisine, wildlife and wilderness, art and history. The landscape is stunning – from high alpine
PAJARITO SKI AREA
terrain above treeline to the Rio Grande Gorge, a
Los Alamos •
Our ski mountains rip – chutes, cliffs, bowls,
cruisers, and in terrain parks – rails, boxes, rainbows, banks. Treks into the backcountry are
a
a
SIPAPU SKI RESORT SANTA FE SKI BASIN
Outside our quaint mountain towns you’ll
discover fresh pockets of adventure and feel this winter completely, utterly alive.
a
ANGEL FIRE RESORT
• Santa Fe
beautiful and boss.
• Eagle Nest
Angel • Fire
You can ride almost anywhere in the world.
huge rip in the earth.
a a
ENCHANTED FOREST XC
TAOS SKI VALLEY
Ski the Southwest
Red River •
And at day’s end, when your thighs are
screaming, slip into a hot tub or pound a big, honking green chile cheeseburger. Nothing like it anywhere.
a
• Albuquerque
a
SANDIA SKI AREA
• Ruidoso
SKI APACHE MAP SHOWS APPROXIMATE LOCATIONS. DISTANCES NOT TO SCALE. PHOTO: SCOTT D.W. SMITH / DMR
hawk-media.com
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ANGEL FIRE RESORT
TAOS SKI VALLEY Some people say there are no secrets left in skiing and snowboarding. They say there is nothing left to be discovered, that all the stashes are gone, the mysteries revealed. Maybe they don’t know Taos Ski Valley. Flanked by sacred wilderness, rugged peaks and multicultural vibes, there’s a reason TSV sits in the center of New Mexico’s Enchanted Circle, and is a mystical haven for 300+ inches of bone-dry powder stashes and some of the most untamed chutes, bowls and glades in North America. Nearly half of all trails are rated for begin-
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ners and intermediates, welcome to anyone with a spirit of adventure. This year, TSV’s spectacular revitalization efforts are nearly done: The brand new Blake Hotel, rising six levels and covering 145,000 sq. ft., houses 65 rooms and 15 suites, and is the star of the new management’s $60 million modernization project. TSV continues its commitment to keeping it green with mountain-wide recycling and energy conservation. See the interactive trail map online.
To celebrate our 50th Anniversary, Angel Fire Resort is making tons of improvements and upgrades, and we’re hosting a weekend-long celebration January 19-22, 2017. A select number of lift tickets will cost just $5.50 that weekend – same price lift tickets were in 1966! Come to our Vintage Ski Suit Après Ski Party on the deck, go night skiing for free, and stay for a spectacular fireworks show. Improvements include expanding terrain parks and widening popular trails to reduce crowding, and two new fuel-efficient, environmentally friendly snowcats are set to carve deep corduroy all season. New programs include The Parenting Pass, New PreSki Program, and ‘Lil
Chile Poppers Snowboard Program, as well as our usual slate of family-friendly programs and activities. The Resort is a member of The Powder Alliance, which gives season pass holders free lift tickets at 14 partner resorts. The mountain features over 2000 vertical feet and 80 runs, with everything from gentle, groomed slopes to heart-pounding steep terrain. We’re still the only place in New Mexico for night skiing. Our nearby Nordic Center at the Country Club offers cross-country, snowshoeing and sledding. Don’t miss our wacky World Championship Shovel Races, February 3-4, 2017. Visit the website for stats, prices, and details.
angelfireresort.com 888-974-8694
skitaos.org 800-776-1111 SKICOUNTRY 2017
RED RIVER SKI AREA
WOLF CREEK SKI AREA Wolf Creek got the Thanksgiving storm they prayed for that brought an end to unseasonably warm weather and started the ski season in the Southern San Juan Mountains. Lifts are operating from 9 to 4. Conditions are powder and packed powder, the groomed runs are awesome, the hike-to terrain is challenging – bring your rock skis! There are plenty of affordable Local Appreciation Days and College Days this season – see our ad in this magazine and our calendar online. The Ski School is open for both adults and children, including the hawk-media.com
Wolf Pup Program. Ski and snowboard rentals are up and running, along with the Treasure Sports shop. Famished skiers can feast at Wolf Creek Lodge or the Prospector Grill. Accommodations can be found in the towns of Pagosa Springs and South Fork. See the website for detailed information on ski conditions. Wolf Creek’s eight lifts service over 1,600 acres of beautiful terrain and, with an average of 400 natural inches, as usual we have the most snow in Colorado.
wolfcreekski.com 970-264-5649 1-800-SKI-WOLF
Fun in the sun and snow! You’ll find a gold mine of great runs in this old mining town turned “Ski Town of the Southwest.” At Red River Ski & Summer Area the attitude is laid back, the people are friendly, and with an average of 18 feet of snow each year, 85% of the mountain backed up with robust snowmaking and Snowcoach grooming capabilities, plus plenty of sun, conditions are great. New this year: our Emerald Quad chairlift. With our mixed terrain, ski-through replica of a mining camp, and terrain parks, our mountain keeps skiers and boarders of all abilities entertained and challenged. A blanket of sparkling snow and blue
skies overhead make Red River a winter wonderland. Bundle up, grab your gear – or rent it here – and get ready for cool outdoor adventures. We’re right in the center of town, a short walk from most lodges. Just learning, or want to polish your skills? The professional coaches in our highly-respected ski and snowboard school offer youth, teen and adult classes for skiers and snowboarders at all levels. Or check out the 24-hour ticket kiosks. Ski and snowboard programs are available for kids and adults. After riding, there’s tubing, evening rail jams and torchlight parades. For stats and events:
redriverskiarea.com 575-754-2233
PHOTOS COURTESY OF ALL SKI AREAS.
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SIPAPU SKI RESORT
PURGATORY at DURANGO MOUNTAIN RESORT A top family-friendly resort, Purgatory at Durango Mountain has been named “North America’s Best Ski Value” by TripAdvisor three years running. Here, Colorado’s rugged San Juan Mountains are home to some of the most consistent and abundant snow in the southwest. By day, explore 1,360 acres of terrain ranging from steep tree trails to wide-open cruisers. There’s dog sledding, snow tubing, Nordic skiing, snowshoeing, horse-drawn sleigh rides, snowbiking, backcountry skiing,
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snowmobiling and more. And après, discover historic Durango, Colorado’s most charming ski town. Check our website for a slew of special packages, snowcat adventure passes, and season pass sales for families and groups. The Power Pass has added Hesperus Ski Area in Durango to Purgatory, Sipapu, Pajarito, and Arizona Snowbowl, providing unlimited access to all five resorts. For more details, stats, and events:
skipurg.com 800-525-0892
Home to the longest ski season in New Mexico, Sipapu Ski and Summer Resort offers a natural mountain terrain, perfect for all ability levels. Since 1952, Sipapu has been the most family-friendly resort in the Rockies. The resort is small so kids don’t get lost, and our laid-back style is perfect for families just wanting to relax and have fun. New this year: Badger is scheduled to open! Our mountain crew has been working hard to open our new trail and new quad chairlift. Check out our events and specials, like Parents Ski Free Week. When you purchase a full-day, full-price child or student lift ticket, you get one adult lift ticket free. Also new: Active Duty Military Ski Free. We honor our active duty military personnel by offering free lift tickets.
Active duty I.D. card required. And ask about Two For One Tuesdays, when you get one full-day, fullprice lift ticket of equal or greater value when you buy one lift ticket on Tuesdays throughout the season. Visit our website for stats and current conditions. Pajarito Mountain of Los Alamos, New Mexico, after extensive improvements last year, is becoming known as the place to ski moguls and deep powder. Pajarito is family friendly: Lift tickets are affordable, and the gentle new trail on the west side of the mountain is perfect for beginners. For more on stats and events at both resorts:
sipapunm.com 800-587-2240 skipajarito.com 505 662 5725
SKICOUNTRY 2017
ENCHANTED FOREST XC
SKI APACHE Boasting over 300 days of sunshine each year, Ski Apache – the country’s southernmost ski resort, managed by the Mescalero Apache Tribe – offers the best warm-weather powder skiing in the world. The second largest ski area in New Mexico, our 750 acres of skiable acres offer a mix of wide beginner slopes, tough bump runs, a huge bowl, nice cruising runs and a terrain park with jumps, tubes and rails. The Adventure Center offers full days of fun activities for young skiers 4-12; we have
plenty of group and private family learning programs. We offer Sisters on Snow for women, focusing on a supportive and relaxed learning experience. Or you can kick it on a trikke, glide down the mountain on our spectacular zip tour (one of the longest in the world), or rip down the tubing hill. You can even take a break and hit the slot machines slopeside at The Inn of The Mountain Gods. For more about ski package deals, the mountain, and events:
Getting on the right trail is easy stuff at New Mexico’s oldest full-service crosscountry ski and snowshoe area, Enchanted Forest, a few miles east of Red River. Cross Country? Over 33 km (600) acres of prime forest groomed 12-foot wide tracks for additional skiing and a wide skate lane for the freestylers. Snowshoe?
Old growth forests, aspen groves, wildlife—a cool nature trek. Warm up with a snack at the hit where you can rent the stuff you need. Group and individual lessons. Got a dog? Bring ‘em. Five km are dogfriendly. Need a night? How about a mountain yurt? Moonlight torchlight treks? Midweek is easier to book. Events on the web:
enchantedforestxc.com 800-966-9381 575-754-6112
skiapache.com 575-464-3600 PHOTOS COURTESY OF ALL SKI AREAS.
hawk-media.com
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urgent medical care
LOCAL APPRECIATION DAYS $44 LIFT TICKET Local ID not required
Lesa Fraker, MD PhD FACEP
Owner/Medical Director Board Certified Emergency Medicine Physician
DEC 7 • JAN 8, 25 FEB 5, 12, 22 MARCH 1, 26, 29 APRIL 2
COLLEGE DAYS $44 LIFT TICKET A valid college photo ID & PRINTED current class schedule:
DEC 4 • JAN 22 • FEB 26 MARCH 4, 25 • APRIL 1
care you can count on No appointment necessary 7 days a week All ages welcome Care for most illnesses & injuries Colds and coughs Sprains and broken bones X-rays, prescription medications & lab tests on site Oxygen & IV Therapies for Altitude Sickness Most insurances accepted including Medicare, Blue Cross Blue Shield, Aetna, & Humana
red river
200A Pioneer Road 575.754.1773
angel fire
FA-1 Ski Patrol Building 575.377.1805 The ONLY certified Urgent Care Clinics in the Enchanted Circle
ultimed.com
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SKICOUNTRY 2017
Alpine Lodges LIFTS WEST CONDOMINIUM and RESORT HOTEL A luxury vacation destination as cozy and comfortable as home, located in the heart of Red River. Featuring 75 deluxe rooms and suites, a stunning three-story lobby with a giant stone fireplace, and knowledgeable staff members. Situated within walking distance of everything you need: Ski lifts, a grocery store, and Red River’s many attractions. Satellite TV, Free wi-fi, non-smoking rooms available, conference rooms, souvenir shops and cafÊ.
800.221.1859 575.754.2778 201 W. Main St, Red River, NM liftswest.com
KACHINA LODGE and MEETINGS CENTER in Taos Four blocks from the historic Taos Plaza, shops, galleries and museums. Full-service hotel. Includes full hot breakfast, leisure bar/lounge with pool tables, video games, and coffee shop. Southwestern dining. Outdoor seasonally heated pool, hot tub, and free high speed internet. Nightly Indian dances May-October. Near Taos Casino and Taos Pueblo. Affordable prices, friendly service staff.
800.522.4462 575.758.2275 kachinalodge.com 413 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, NM
EL PUEBLO LODGE Come stay at the edge of town, at the edge of everything! Southwest charm with early Taos architecture. Complimentary wifi and HBO. Heated, seasonal pool, year-round hot tub. Continental breakfast each morning, fresh baked cookies each afternoon. Pet-friendly. Three blocks from historic Taos Plaza; 18 miles from Taos Ski Valley. Taos Pueblo and Taos Mountain Casino two miles north. See our website for specials and packages.
800.433.9612 575.758.8700 412 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, Taos, NM elpueblolodge.com
FIRESIDE INN & CABINS Modern, deluxe one and two bedroom fully-equipped cabins with room to roam on ten acres along the San Juan River. Located on the east side of Pagosa, close to Hot Springs, toward Wolf Creek Ski Area and national forest X-country ski trails. Private river access and fishing (catch and release) on our property. Individual living area with gas fireplace, bedroom/s, kitchen, bathroom. Covered porches with grills and a Hot Tub! Open yearround.
888.264.9204 970.264.9204 1600 E. Hwy 160, Pagosa Springs, CO firesidecabins.com hawk-media.com
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The Wild Ones: A Nature Special Seeing wildlife is like seeing celebrities, only better. – Tania Andrews
I
n the open-air, unscripted cinema that is Nature, one can discover an unparalleled richness of themes. Complex relationships, cyclical
like a mercenary on a cottonwood branch. What you may or may not encounter while exploring this region depends on where you’re looking, when you’re looking, how you’re looking, and of course “luck” (the chances of encountering a cougar are not only extremely slim but also may, depending
GERAINT SMITH
refrains and motifs, uncensored action sequences, love in all its guises—feral, playful, fierce, protective. In culling choice snapshots from an on location shoot in Northern New Mexico and the Southern Rockies, here’s what you might see: A tawny cougar, resting sedately on a snowdrift, its gaze laserlike and vigilant . . . an aerial shot of a Ferruginous hawk silhouetted against powder-blue sky . . . a bighorn sheep, sporting dense, Loki-like horns, poised on a butte . . . the lantern-eyed, tuft-eared Great Horned owl, perched 26
on proximity and interpretation, be construed as “unlucky.”). In a sense, they are low-profile “celebrities,” veering away from any kind of exposure, yet Black Bear, Cougar, Bobcat, and Coyote assume top billing as New Mexico’s large land predators. Despite their name, black bears come in various colors (covering shades of black, brown, red, blonde), with its most common color being cinnamon. With a diet mostly comprising plants, adult males can weigh up to 400 lbs (average weight
being around 250), yet their girth belies their shyness, which is why they depend upon the subterfuge of trees and foliage in their forest habitats. Black bear was named New Mexico’s state animal in 1963, and among Pueblo tribes bears are considered one of the six directional guardians, associated with the west and the color blue. Black bears do not technically hibernate, but rather enter into state of “torpor,” and this modified spell of hibernation typically lasts from midOctober to the end of March. When it comes to the name-game no one trumps the cougar. That is, the puma. Or the mountain lion. You could also say painter, panther, deer tiger, fire cat, mountain screamer, or catamount, and you wouldn’t be wrong. Puma concolor is a Guiness Book qualifier, with more names (over 40) than any other animal. Solitary, secretive, and crepuscular (primarily active during twilight hours), cougars are the only large cats that do not roar. They do purr, like housecats, and are also known to scream, squeak, hiss and whistle. Also solitary and crepuscular, with spotted patterns doubling as their cloak of invisibility, bobcats are the most common wildcat in North America. Bobcats in the Southwest have the lightest-colored coats of all North American bobcats, and are roughly twice the size of housecats. And these stubby-tailed SKICOUNTRY 2017
felines are super-old-school, first appearing around 1.8 million years ago. One of the animals that you are more likely to see in this area is Elk, or wapiti (“white rump”). These majestic and graceful creatures are one of North America’s largest land mammals, with a feisty mating ritual that includes posturing, bugling, and antler-jousting between suitors. One of the most popular places for elkviewing is the Valle Vidal region of Carson National Forest. Coyotes may be the most iconic of totem-animals when it comes to typifying high desert wildlife and lore. “Coyote” comes from the Spanish bastardization of the Nahuatl (Aztec) name, coyotl, with the earliest written reference to the animal appearing in Plantas y Animales de la Nueva España (1651), by naturalist, Francisco Hernandez, who describes it as a “Spanish fox” or “jackal.” Regarded as the most vocal of wild North American mammals, the coyote’s audio-palette of howls, yips, and barks come in at least eleven different vocal styles. That variety also extends to their “roleplaying” in Native American mythology, where Coyote may function as trickster, anti-hero, sage-teacher, or some combination thereof. While the popular notion of buffalo thundering across the landscape in abundant herds belongs to a bygone era in American history, over 50,000 American bison call Vermejo Park Ranch (outside of Cimarron) home. Ted Turner, in his efforts as a conservationalist, owns the world’s largest private herd of American bison, and these shaggy hulks can sometimes be seen from Highway 64, between hawk-media.com
Cimarron and Raton. Also, the nearby Philmont Scout Ranch, a working cattle ranch, has a herd of over 140 bison. On May 9, 2016, President Obama signed the National Bison Legacy Act into law, officially making the American bison the national mammal of the United States. Mule deer, named for their “muleescent” ears, are broken into two sub-species: the Rocky Mountain mule deer and the desert mule deer. Another popular “hoofer” of the region, pronghorns, are often referred to as antelope, or the American antelope, though technically they are not antelope, with their closest living relatives being giraffes and okapi. Nimble and timorous, pronghorn are the fastest land animals in North America. Colorado’s state animal, Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep, has enjoyed a successful transplanting into the Rio Grande Gorge, where it has become common to see herds scrabbling along rocky ledges. This region is also a feather-lover’s heaven, with hundreds of different bird species calling the area home, or in some cases a rendezvous point for the mating game. Wrens, owls, hawks, eagles, egrets, cranes, herons, woodpeckers, roadrunners, finches, jays, crows, ravens, starlings, warblers, cardinals, grosbeaks, and countless other classes present a stirring diversity of sounds, songs, colors, and flight patterns. The Monte Vista Wildlife National Refuge, just outside of Alamosa, is a springtime migratory stop-over for greater sandhill cranes, with over 20,000 passing through.
FUN WILDLIFE FACTOIDS New Mexico’s state bird is the roadrunner; Colorado’s is the lark bunting. Roadrunners can fly, though they spend most of their time on the ground. The golden eagle is North America’s largest bird of prey. The American Bison is the largest mammal in North America. Coyote’s scientific name, Canis Latrans, means “barking dog.” Cougars can jump up to twenty feet in the air and pounce on prey from 20-40 feet away. Pronghorns are second only to cheetahs as fastest land animal. Bobcats, except when mating, live alone.
— John Biscello 27
Time to Dine TAOS ACEQ – 480 State Road 150, Arroyo Seco, NM 87514. 575.776.0900. Fresh, local, fun dining at its finest. Family-owned, farm-totable restaurant in the Arroyo Seco Plaza. We serve our own interpretation of comfort food, utilizing the best in local, wild, and farm fresh ingredients. Contemporary takes on old classics, house-made specialties, craveable desserts. Reservations highly recommended. Visit aceqrestaurant.com, or email us at info@aceqrestaurant.com DOC MARTIN’S RESTAURANT – 1/2 block N of Taos Plaza in the Historic Taos Inn, 575-758-1977. Fresh, casual dining in a historic setting. Winner of Wine Spectator’s “Best Of Award Of Excellence” for 28 consecutive years. Innovative Regional New American Cuisine using the freshest local ingredients, specializing in organic vegetables, meats and fish, including favorites like buffalo, elk, trout. Homemade desserts. Lunch, dinner, weekend brunch. Reservations recommended. docmartinsrestaurant.com
EL GAMAL – Behind Taos Plaza, 112 Doña Luz. 575-613-0311. Serving conscious vegetarian Middle Eastern food, made from scratch. Hummus, falafel, baba ganoush, shakshuka, labane, dolmas. Daily specials, soups, house-made pita, desserts. Gluten-free and vegan options; Turkish coffee and espresso drinks; beer and wine. Family-friendly: kids’ playroom, pool table, free wi-fi. Patio seating. Call for takeout. Like us on Facebook. Open Monday-Wednesday 9-5; Thursday-Saturday 9-9; Sunday 11-3.
THE GORGE BAR and GRILL – 103 East Taos Plaza. 575-758-8866. Stop by and try our juicy burgers, handshaken margaritas, or fresh oysters – something for everyone! Enjoy The Best Happy Hour in Taos while sitting on our patio overlooking the Taos Plaza. We feature TWO happy hours: M-F, 3-5:30 pm and 9-10:30 pm. Check out our wine bar and retail shop located below The Gorge: PARCHT BOTTLESHOP + BITES. 575-758-1994. A cozy place to discover unique wines + quality craft beer + hand-picked artisanal cheese & charcuterie+ locally roasted coffee. Explore the things that excite us while you taste + shop + unwind. thegorgebarandgrill.com and parcht.com 28
FARMHOUSE CAFÉ and BAKERY – Three miles north of Taos Plaza at Overland Ranch. 575-758-LOVE (5683). Farm-totable, local organic cuisine. Legendary grassfed burger, green chile chicken stew, daily quiche. House-made soups, salads and a variety of vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free options. Incredible assortment of artisan breads, croissants, tarts, muffins, cheesecakes, cookies and more. Specialty coffees and fresh organic grab-and-go items. Open 8 am-5 pm daily. Sunday Brunch. Ask about our dinner hours. Full menu: farmhousetaos.com
GUADALAJARA GRILL – Two locations in Taos: Southside – 1384 Paseo del Pueblo Sur, Taos: 575-751-0063. Northside – 822 Paseo del Pueblo Norte, El Prado: 575-737-0816. “Our secret sauce makes the difference!” Authentic Mexican food in New Mexico. Seafood, Chile Rellenos, Azteca Quesadilla, Camarones a la Diabla, Ceviche and so much more. Beer, Wine, Agave Margaritas. Voted “Best Of Taos” 2015: Best Mexican Food, Best Fast Food. Open 10:30 am to 9 pm 7 days a week. Full menu online: guadalajaragrilltaos.com EL MEZE RESTAURANT – Simply the Best. Located in the historic El Torreon Hacienda, 1017 Paseo del Pueblo Norte (1.2 miles north of the Taos Plaza). 575751-3337. Regionally-inspired rustic New Mexican, Spanish and Mediterranean cuisine from Chef and Food Historian Frederick Muller. Dinner only, Monday – Saturday 5:30 to 9:30 pm. Closed Sundays. Reservations recommended. elmeze.com RICKY’S – Located 2 1/2 blocks south of Taos Plaza at 312 Paseo del Pueblo Sur. 575758-1156. A locals’ favorite. Breakfast, lunch and dinner specials daily. Great New Mexican and American dishes at family-oriented prices. Breakfast enchiladas and the meat-lover’s Bruno Omelette. Gluten-free and vegetarian chiles. Burgers made with fresh local beef daily. Kid’s menu. 80% of our dishes available vegetarian. Dine in or take out. Open 7 days, 7 am to 8 pm. SABROSO RESTAURANT & BAR – 470 State Hwy. 150, Arroyo Seco, NM. 575-7763333. An American fine dining restaurant on the road to Taos Ski Valley. Sabroso, which means delicious, is housed in a historic 150-year-old adobe in the tiny village of Arroyo Seco. Famous for wood-grilled steaks, fully-stocked bar, amazing wine cellar. Patio
dining in summer with outside bar and covered tables. Fabulous hand-squeezed Margaritas; local musicians in the cozy lounge. Book your upcoming event in our breathtaking plum orchard. Happy hour 4–6, dinner ‘til 9. 10% OFF with valid ski pass. sabrosotaos.com
A LA CART – 625 Paseo del Pueblo Norte. 575-758-7503. Serving fast and fresh affordable meals inspired by world street food. Indoor seating; garden patio or express takeout at our drive-through window. Moroccan: grilled beef, red peppers and onions served on a flat bread pita or over rice with a yogurt mint sauce. Indian: grilled chicken with a spicy peanut sauce and a chickpea, tomato, cucumber salad. Ethiopian: lentil curry with yams, peas and potatoes on rice with warm pita bread and salad, served mild, medium or spicy. Americans classics, soups, stews, salads, sandwiches, Nathan’s hot dogs. Breakfast and lunch. From $5.50 to $9. THE GORGE BAR and GRILL – 103 East Taos Plaza. 575-758-8866. Stop by The Gorge and try our juicy burgers, handshaken margaritas, or fresh oysters – something for everyone! Enjoy The Best Happy Hour in Taos while sitting on our patio overlooking the Taos Plaza. We feature TWO happy hours: M-F, 3-5:30 pm and again from 9-10:30 pm. Check out our new wine bar and retail shop located below The Gorge: PARCHT BOTTLESHOP + BITES. 575-758-1994. A cozy place to discover unique wines + quality craft beer + hand-picked artisanal cheese & charcuterie + locally roasted coffee. Come in and explore the things that excite us while you taste + shop + unwind. thegorgebarandgrill.com and parcht.com
RED RIVER BRETT’S BISTRO – At Lifts West, 201 W. Main Street in Red River. 575-754-9959. Serving the best steaks, seafood and Rocky Mountain trout for over 25 years. Daily specials, kids’ menu. Catering available. Cold beer and fine wines. Like us on Facebook. Open daily 11 am–9 pm. brettsbistro.com
SUNDANCE – High Street at Copper King. 575-754-2971. Same great food, same great service. Celebrating our 43rd year. Steaks, salads, excellent Mexican food. Great sopaipillas! Specials include shrimp fajitas and SKICOUNTRY 2017
quesadillas. Frozen wine Margaritas. Reservations welcome. Call for to-go orders. Open nightly 5 pm.
for lunch and dinner. Reservations for dinner are suggested. Also visit Café Expresso 575377-6669 for hearty breakfast and lunch.
ANGEL FIRE
PIZZA STOP – Located one block from the
ANGEL FIRED PIZZA – Located on the second floor of the Mountain View Mall (next to the Lowe’s Valley Market). 575-3772774. We serve specialty pizzas, baked pastas, subs, paninis, calzones and salads. Our fun, relaxed atmosphere has great views of the mountain. Wide selection of handcrafted beers and fine wines. Many gluten-free options. Dine-in or carry-out. Open lunch and dinner, Tuesday–Sunday 11 am–9 pm. Happy Hour daily 3-6. angelfiredpizza.com LEGENDS GRILL – Located on the second floor of The Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-377-4201. A great place for the whole family. Proudly serving 1/2 lb. Angus beef burgers, sandwiches, salads and more. Great selection of craft beers on tap. Sports on the big screens! Open daily 4-9 pm. THE LIFT – Located in the lobby of The Lodge at Angel Fire Resort. 575-377-4234. Serving Starbucks specialty coffees and freshly baked goods daily. The Lift dishes up delicious breakfasts and lunches, including homemade breakfast burritos (a local favorite), breakfast sandwiches, wraps, fresh salads and homemade dressings. Beer and wine also available. Open daily 7 am-4 pm, with extended hours during peak periods.
slopes, Village Center #1, North Angel Fire Road. 575-377-6340. Angel Fire’s oldest family restaurant features all kinds of pizzas, sandwiches, spaghetti, garlic rolls and more. Open Monday–Saturday 11 am-1 pm and 4:30 ‘til closing(?). Open Sunday 4:30–closing. Closed Tuesdays. Thanks for the past 25 years!
PUB ‘N GRUB – Located at 52 N. Angel Fire Road in the Village Center Plaza. 505-615-5446. We are a family-friendly pub with 20 craft beers on tap including a draft style root beer. Famous for our steaks and fish’n’chips. Rated best crème brûlée in the Southwest by our customers. Open every day in season, weekends during off-season. ENCHANTED CIRCLE BREWING CO. – 505-216-4423. Located at 20 Sage Lane in Angel Fire, we specialize in an extensive line of fine handcrafted beers. Serving food daily in our tap room. Open for lunch and dinner. Come for a tour of the production area.
THE CANDY STORE – Located at 52 N. Angel Fire Road. 330-770-4423. Your local dessert shop serving soft serve ice cream, cupckes, truffles, chocolates, and candies. Fine selection of gifts and family fun puzzles and games. Open daily.
ELEMENTS at THE COUNTRY CLUB – 575-377-3055. Enjoy unobstructed Southern Rocky Mountain views while your taste buds delight in world class cuisine. Featuring a full bar, an award winning wine list, private dining rooms and group event spaces. Located on the upper level of the Angel Fire Country Club and open to the public year-round. Dining room is open Tuesday-Saturday 5–9 pm. Bar and lounge open Tuesday-Saturday 4 pmclose. Extended hours during peak periods.
H2 UPTOWN – 48 North Angel Fire Road. 575-377-1200. Casual mountain style dining with an upscale experience, where you’re treated like family. Serving specially seasoned charbroiled steaks, wild game, pastas, fine wine, draft beer and much more. An unforgettable experience at an affordable price. Open hawk-media.com
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20 1 7 CALENDA R 3 Happy Hops Hunt, Purgatory Resort 4 Family Day School Program, Wolf Creek 11-17 College Days, Red River Ski Area 4 NM(X) Rail Jam, Angel Fire Resort 11, 17, 24, 31 Torchlight Parades, Red River 4 Big Mountain Challenge, Ski Apache 11, 19-20, 27-28 Demo Days, Purgatory 4 Telemark Festival, Purgatory Resort 16-17 Public Demo Days, Taos Ski Valley 4-5 Hawaiian Days, Sipapu Ski Resort 16-18 3rd Annual Women’s Weekend, Taos Ski Valley 4, 18, 25 Fun Races, Wolf Creek Ski Area FEBRUARY 17 Sustainability Talks, Taos Ski Valley 4-19 Spring Break, Red River Ski Area 1 Twilight Nights Race Series, Purgatory Resort 17 Emerald Giveaway, Red River Ski Area 4-19 Fiesta del Sol Spring Break, AF Resort 2 Town Challenge Race, Red River Ski Area 18 World Snowboard Day, Sipapu Ski Resort 4, 25 College Days, Wolf Creek Ski Area 3 Happy Hops Hunt, Purgatory Resort 23 Santa on the Mountain, Purgatory Resort 5 Locals Benefit Day, Purgatory Resort 3-4 World Championship Shovel Races, AF Resort 23, 31 Evening snowshoe tour, Purgatory Resort 5 USASA Slopestyle Competition, AF Resort 3, 10, 17, 24 Locals Days, Ski Apache 24 Procession of the Virgin & bonfires, Taos Pueblo 5 Demo Day, Purgatory Resort 4 Ladies’ ski clinic, Wolf Creek 24 Christmas party, Sipapu Ski Resort 10, 17 Kids Glowstick Parade, Red River 4-5 SkiBike Weekend with SkiBikeFun, Sipapu 24 Torchlight parade & fireworks, all ski areas 11 New Belgium Rally in the Valley, TSV 4-5 Rando Raid: US Ski Mountaineering 24-25 Ski or Ride with Santa, most ski areas 11 Spring Fling Race, Wolf Creek Ski Area Nationals, Taos Ski Valley 25 Matachines or Deer Dance, Taos Pueblo 11 14th Annual Cardbox Derby, Sipapu Ski Resort 4-5 USASA Slopestyle, Taos Ski Valley 25 Christmas Luminaria Tour, Enchanted Forest XC 4-5 Winter Wine Festival, Taos Ski Valley 11 Moonlight Hike and Campfire, Sipapu 28 Dummy Gelunde & Parade, Ski Apache 11 We Be Jammin’ Sundown Rail Jam, Red River 5 Family Day School Program, Wolf Creek 31 Torchlight parade & fireworks, all ski areas 5, 12, 22 Locals Appreciation Day, Wolf Creek 11, 18 Apache Start Races, Ski Apache 31 New Year’s Party, Red River Community House 7, 28 Baby Boomers’ Ski Clinic, Wolf Creek Ski Area 13-15 Spring Break Scavenger Hunt, Red River 9-13 Military Winterfest, Angel Fire Resort 17 Shamrock Relay, Ski Apache JANUARY 10-12 Regional ISFA Junior Freeride, TSV 17-18 Ben Meyers Ridge-A-Thon, Taos Ski Valley Fridays through March: Tour with Ranger, Red River 11 Red Ball Express, Purgatory Resort 17-19 Dog Days, ski w/your dog, Enchanted Forest Saturdays through March: Torchlight Parades, Red River 11 Telemark Ski Clinic, Wolf Creek Ski Area 18 13th Annual Pond Skimming Contest, Sipapu 1 Turtle Dance, Taos Pueblo 11 Love on the Lift, Sipapu Ski Resort 18 Cardboard Derby, Purgatory Resort 1-13 College Days, Red River Ski Area 11 Moonlight Hike and Campfire, Sipapu 19 Pond Skim & “That’s a Wrap,” Red River 1-31 Bargain Days, Red River Ski Area 11 Holy Angels Annual Barn Dance, Angel Fire 21 Demo Day, Purgatory Resort 2-8 College Week, Angel Fire Resort 25 Telemark Ski Clinic, Wolf Creek Ski Area 11, 25 Apache Start Races, Ski Apache 6 Happy Hops Hunt, Purgatory Resort 26 Weekends only, Sipapu 12 Local Benefits Day, Purgatory Resort 6 USASA Slalom Races, Purgatory Resort 28 Baby Boomers’ Ski Clinic, Wolf Creek 12 Demo Day, Purgatory Resort 6 Buffalo or Deer Dance, Taos Pueblo 14 Heart to Heart Races, Ski Apache 7 USASA Gold Rush Rail Jam, Red River 14, 18 Night Snowshoe Tour, Purgatory Resort APRIL 7 NM(X) Rail Jam, Angel Fire Resort 15-16 9th Annual SW On-Snow Demo Days, TSV 1 Kachina TWiST lap-a-thon, Taos Ski Valley 7 21st Annual Brewmasters Festival, TSV 16 Town Challenge Race, Red River Ski Area 1 College Day, Wolf Creek Ski Area 7, 9, 14, 23 Terrain Park Competition, Ski Apache 18-20 February Fun Fest, Sipapu 1-2 Wolf Creek Downhill Challenge Series 7, 21 Ladies’ ski clinics, Wolf Creek 18 Night Rail Jam, Purgatory Resort 1-2 School Program, Wolf Creek Ski Area 8 Demo Day, Purgatory Resort 18 USASA Halfpipe Competition, Purgatory 2 Local Appreciation Day, Wolf Creek Ski Area 8 Locals Benefit Day, Purgatory Resort 18 Santa Fe Brewing Happy Hops Hunt 2, Sipapu 2 Pond Skimming, Purgatory Resort 8, 22, 29 Fun Races, Wolf Creek Ski Area 19 Presidents Day Race, Wolf Creek Ski Area 2 Pond Skimming Championships, TSV 13-15 Red River Skijoring & Winter Festival 23 Mardi Gras in the Mountains, Red River 13-16 Winterfest, Purgatory Resort 24 Dave Spencer Ski Classic, Purgatory Resort 14 Telemark Festival, Sipapu Ski Area 24-26 Ski Bike Festival, Purgatory Resort INFORMATION 14 Santa Fe Brewing Happy Hops Hunt, Sipapu 24-28 Mardi Gras Celebration, Angel Fire Resort Angel Fire 800-446-8117 14 Freeheel Fray Telemark Race, Sipapu 25 4th Annual Lloyd Bolander Memorial, Sipapu Chama 800-477-0149 14 Moonlight Hike and Campfire, Sipapu 25 Shred the Love for Breast Cancer, Taos Ski Valley Durango 970-247-3500 14 USSC Ultimate Snow Challenge, Red River 25 USASA Rampage Slopestyle, Red River Ski Area Eagle Nest 800-494-9117 14 Telluride Mountainfilm on Tour, AF Resort 25 Just Desserts Eat & Ski, Enchanted Forest XC Pagosa Springs 800-252-2204 14 USASA Tao of Taos Rail Jam, Taos Ski Valley 26 College Day, Wolf Creek Ski Area Red River 800-348-6444 15 MLK Jr. Race, Wolf Creek Ski Area 26 Mardi Gras Race, Wolf Creek Ski Area Ruidoso 877-784-3676 17 4th Annual Not Forgotten Outreach week, TSV 28 Fat Tuesday Costume Day, Ski Apache Santa Fe 800-777-2489 18 United Way Day, Wolf Creek Ski Area 28 Mardi Gras, Purgatory Resort South Fork 800-571-0881 19-22 AF Resort’s 50th Anniversary Celebration Taos County 800-732-8267 21 King of the Hill Terrain Competition, Sipapu MARCH Taos Pueblo 575-758-1028 21-22 Low 02 Challenge, Enchanted Forest XC 1, 26, 29 Locals Appreciation Day, Wolf Creek 22 College Day, Wolf Creek Ski Area 2 Town Challenge Race, Red River Ski Area Dates are subject to change. Check with local chambers 25 Twilight Nights Race Series, Purgatory Resort 2-4 Taos Freeride Championships, Taos Ski Valley and visitor centers for updated calendar information. 26 Town Challenge Race, Red River Ski Area
DECEMBER
30
26 USASA Southwest Showdown, AF Resort 26 Gay Ski Weekend, Purgatory Resort 27-29 Whiskey & Powder Music Fest, AF Resort 27-29 Big Ol’ Texas Weekend, Angel Fire Resort 28 Telemark Clinic, Wolf Creek Ski Area
SKICOUNTRY 2017
ABUNDANTLY FRESH!
Freshest Fruits & Veggies Fast, Friendly Checkout Fresh Meats Fine Wine & Spirits Fine Tobaccos Subway OPEN 7 DAYS DOING THE LITTLE EXTRAS TO SERVE OUR CUSTOMERS 575.377.2354 • 3373 Highway 434 • Angel Fire, NM 87710