Basic Horse Care Essential Guidelines for Keeping Your Horse Healthy
About Horse Council BC Horse Council BC is a non-profit organization, governed by an independent Board of Directors, committed to representing the interests of our members and the equine industry. As one of the most successful multi-breed, multi-discipline provincial equine organizations in Canada we represent the equine community in BC by collaborating with individuals, businesses and industry professionals to strengthen communication, education, and safety and horse welfare. Who can join? Anyone with an interest in horses, individuals, families, businesses and clubs are all eligible to be part of Horse Council BC. • • • • • • • • • • •
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Horse Council BC 27336 Fraser Hwy Aldergrove, BC V4W 3N5 Office Hours: Mon-Fri 8:30 - 4:30 Phone: 604-856-4304 Toll Free: 1-800-345-8055 Fax: 604-856-4302 www.hcbc.ca
HCBC would like to thank Dr. Theresa Burns D.V.M. for her contribution and guidance in producing the Basic Horse Care booklet. Horse Council BC gratefully acknowledges the financial support of the Province of British Columbia through the Ministry of Community, Sport and Cultural Development.
©Horse Council BC 2012
Horse Sense! Horses have specific care needs to be healthy and comfortable. Caring for a horse can be one of life’s most rewarding experiences and we owe it to our horses to learn as much as possible about their needs. This booklet will offer the very BASIC outline of what your horse needs. There are many resources available with more detailed information and we suggest you continue with further learning, to make the best choices for you and your horse. Horses are powerful, quick reacting animals. They can be easily startled or frightened and may injure their handler when frightened. Handle your horse in a calm, quiet, firm manner. Be consistent with your movement and signals and your horse will learn quickly. Horses can be very gentle and easy to get along with when handled well. If your horse does a behaviour you do not want, it is important to remember that corrections are only effective if used within 7 seconds. Delayed or prolonged corrections are not effective, as horses’ brains cannot make the connection between the behaviour and the correction after 7 seconds. Hitting a horse more than 3 times in a row, or depriving a horse of food, water or shelter as punishment are animal cruelty and should never occur. An interesting source for information about the science of horse behaviour is the University of Pennsylvania Havemeyer Equine Behavior Lab website.
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Vision Horses see very differently than us. With their eyes placed far apart they can see a broader side view than we can. A grazing horse can see almost all the way around its body. Some important facts: • A horse has a blind spot directly behind its hindquarters. • A horse can’t see directly below its head. • A horse must raise its head to see faraway objects. • A horse must lower its head to see close objects. • If an object is closer than 4 feet, the horse can’t see it with its binocular vision. • It takes time for a horse to adjust its eyesight from brightness to darkness.
Hearing The horse has a well developed sense of hearing that is stronger and different than that of humans. Horses hear higher and lower frequencies than humans can. Vibrations transmitted through the ground can be picked up by the horse’s teeth as it grazes and conveyed to the middle ear through the jaw bone. The horse can also pick up low frequency and vibration through its hooves. The ears can rotate 180 degrees enabling a horse to tell where a sound is coming from. Horses also communicate with their ears;
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What Should I Feed My Horse? PASTURE! During the growing season (April - August) 1-2 acres of pasture can provide all the feed (other than salt and water) that some horses need. However, all horses require additional feed in the winter months (Sept - March) and many horses require hay and grain throughout the year. Too much pasture in spring and fall can cause obesity and laminitis (founder) in some horses. HAY! There are various types of hay including alfalfa, timothy, orchard and local to name a few. Hay should smell ‘sweet and clean’. You should not be able to see or smell dust, mold or moisture when you open a bale and examine and shake hay flakes. Different types of hay will have very different nutritional value, including calories, protein and vitamins. How much you feed depends on the type of hay, the breed and metabolism of your horse and the amount of work your horse does. An average one thousand pound horse needs 15 - 20 lbs (7-10kg) of hay per day spread out over three or more feedings. GRAIN! Some horses do require grain for extra energy and nutrition. There are many types of rations available. Read labels and talk to your vet or feed store staff to find a grain that suits your horse. BUT be careful with grain, be sure you feed the correct amount that is specific to your horses needs or obesity and health or behaviour problems can result. WATER! It may be the most important part of your horse’s diet. Make sure your horse has access to a clean source of water at all times! Horses must drink 10-12 gallons (40-50 litres) of water a day to stay healthy. Check your horse’s water source twice a day to make sure it is clean and water is available. This can be your single most important step in keeping your horse healthy. SALT! Horses lose salt when they sweat, especially in hot weather. They need salt to maintain the proper chemical balance in their bodies. A good salt/mineral lick for horses should be available at all times. Consult with your vet whether any additional supplements should be added. 5
When Should I Feed My Horse? Horse have very sensitive digestion and small stomachs designed for grazing – eating little and often. You should feed your horse at least 3 - 4 times per day or more if time permits. Feeding your horse too much at one time may result in wasted feed and a sick horse! Horses should not be fed more than 4 lbs (2kg) of grain at one time. Have a clean rubber bucket for grain and feed the hay in a clean mud free area to reduce waste. Because multiple horses living together will not all have equal access to shared feed, it is important that each horse has a safe space to eat without being chased or injured by other herd members.
How Much Should I Feed My Horse? Like people, some horses seem to live on very little feed, whereas others need to eat and eat. Older horses, horses in hard work, horses with underlying diseases and some breeds, particularly Thoroughbreds, tend to require more feed. Horses that are underweight should always have their health (teeth, deworming program and feeding program) evaluated by a veterinarian. Overfeeding is equally dangerous, and very unhealthy for horses. Excess weight can cause a host of health issues and can lead to obesity and laminitis (founder), which can be life threatening. You can purchase a weight tape from your feed store to help you keep track of your horses condition. The best way to evaluate a horses weight and condition is with the universally recognized Body Scoring Condition system produced by the Alberta Government. The BSC will allow you to objectively evaluate your horse’s condition. The pictures on the following pages will show the basics of how to ‘BSC’ a horse. Since it can be hard to see if your own horse is over or underweight, it is often helpful to have 2 or 3 friends who don’t see your horse everyday use the BCS system to objectively score your horse. These are the points of the horse you will look at closely when making an evaluation.
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Teeth Your horse needs proper dental care just like we do. Your veterinarian is trained to do dental work and will help you decide on a care plan for your horse. A horses teeth should be checked annually (preferably bi-annually) for signs of abnormal wear and other dental problems. Gums and teeth may become damaged or food may become trapped result-ing in inflammation, infection and ulceration. Pain can cause your horse to misbehave when ridden or stop eating properly. Young horses, before being introduced to a bit and bridle should have their teeth checked to ensure there are no dental issues that will cause pain. Older horses (15+), will require more frequent checks to ensure that the horse is not in discomfort. Horses with worn or abnormal teeth are unable to easily chew their food, resulting in poor digestion. • Common signs of dental problems are: • Food not being chewed properly. • Dropping food out of the mouth when the horse is eating. • Weight loss or trouble maintaining weight. • Poor overall condition (ie. dull coat). It is important to have routine inspections to avoid or stop problems in the early stages and prevent suffering. Good preventative dental care will go along way in keeping your horse healthy, comfortable and reduce care costs. 12
Hoof Care Horses feet are like fingernails, they are constantly growing. A horse needs their feet trimmed every 6 to 8 weeks by a professional farrier. Horse’s hooves can start splitting, chipping, cracking, and cause lameness if left to long without a trim. Too long of feet will also cause the horse to be unbalanced putting stress on their limbs and back which will lead to pain and soreness. Some horses may need shoes. It depends on what kind of terrain you are riding on, how often you ride, and the horse’s individual hoof strength. Your farrier or veterinarian should be able to help you make that decision. For proper care of the hoof make sure you have these tools: Hoof pick, small stiff brush, optional: hoof sealer/dressing for dry conditions. Good hoof health helps keep you horse sound. Horses hooves should be cleaned out daily and before and after each ride. You want to make sure there are no rocks wedged in the groove of the frog which could cause bruising. Horses can get an infection called thrush in their feet due to wet conditions. The horse should always have dry clean bedding in the barn/ shelter and the paddock area should have good drainage to prevent the horse from standing in water and mud all day. Horses require a minimum of 8 hours per day on dry footing to maintain hoof health.
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Fencing Good strong fencing is imperative in keeping your horse safe. A large percentage of horse injuries that occur on farms are fence related and may be as a result of the fence materials, the design, the workmanship, or combinations of all three. Barbed wire is not recommended. The best horse fences are designed and built with specific horse habits in mind: • The tendency to get hooves and legs caught in or through the fence. • The habit of chewing wood boards. • The need for good visibility, horses need to see the fence clearly. • Strong enough to withstand horses leaning on or rubbing against. Pasture fence layout is also important: • Allow adequate room for horses to run for exercise. • Keep corners to a minimum, consider rounding corners. • Allow for separate pastures for difficult horses. • Locate gates for good access and horse movement. General types of horse fences are shown in the table below. A combination of materials can also be used , such as page wire with wood rails, or electric fence to reinforce fencing. Electric fences can be used either alone or in conjunction with nonelectric fences. An electric fence is a psychological rather than a physical barrier that must be constructed as both a fence and an electrical circuit. An all-electric one or two strand fence may have poor visibility and be a problem with some horses. One electric wire used on a non-electric fence can give good control with good visibility and keep horses from pressuring fences.
1.Choose woven wire with small openings 2. All separate wire fences have the possibility of horses getting caught up in them 3. Steel wire strands (12.5 gauge commonly used) have the least visibility. 4. This is personal and subjective.
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Stabling / Shelters All horses require adequate shelter from rain, wind, hot sun and insects. It is essential that the stall or shelter is big enough for the horse to comfortably stand, turn around and lie down without making contact with the walls or roof! For a thousand pound horse, the minimum acceptable stall size is10 x 10 feet (3.048 m x 3.048m) with an 11 foot (3.3528m) ceiling height. Walls should be solid and secure enough to withstand the pressure if a horse decides to lean or rubs against them. Doorways should be ample enough that the horse can walk through easily with out bruising or scraping his hips, at minimum 48 inches.(1.2192m) Floors should not be slippery. The stall/shelter should be free of debris, sharp nails, metal edging and exposed electrical wires. Light fixtures should be covered with a safety cage. Because multiple horses living together will not have equal access to a shared shelter, it is important that each horse has a safe space to seek shelter. To avoid horses standing on bare concrete, uneven stone or worse wet ground, some type of bedding should cover the whole floor, this could be shavings, sawdust, sand or straw. No matter what type of bedding material is used it is essential that the material is of a good quality, not toxic if eaten and not an irritant to the skin. Dusty or dirty bedding is a significant health risk to your horse. Daily mucking out and cleaning of the whole stable is paramount to keeping your horse in good health. You should have a good wheelbarrow, shovel , manure pick and broom. Have a plan for manure management – how will you dispose of manure that accumulates on your property?
For information on manure composting go to : www.hcbc.ca Then to the Agriculture & Industry page. 15
Blanketing Some people decide to blanket their horses in the winter. Blanketing your horse can be a good idea if you plan on riding regularly during the cold months because the horse will grow a lighter winter coat. This allows him to dry faster after being worked (remember to always cool your horse down by walking and toweling till the coat is quite dry, so they don’t get a chill). Blanketing may be necessary if the horse is elderly or sick and is not able to grow enough hair to keep warm. If the pasture or paddock you keep your horse in has inadequate shelter from the wind or rain then you must blanket to keep your horse warm and dry. Blankets come in many different types so make sure the blanket you choose is waterproof for any outdoor turnout. Don’t forget to do daily blanket checks—check the blanket everyday for rips, broken straps, or leaking. Take off the blanket to check your horse‘s body weight and look for skin conditions such as lice, or irritations from blanket rubs. As the weather warms up make sure the horse is not overheating. If you are not planning on riding during the winter months you may decide not to blanket your horse. This is a great option if your horse is healthy and has good shelter from bad weather conditions (windproof and dry). Your horse naturally grows more hair in the winter to keep warm. Be sure to check on your horse daily for injuries and make sure they are maintaining a healthy weight. A thick winter coat can hide loss of weight so make sure you feel their body on a regular basis for loss of fat or you can pick up a cloth measuring tape from a local feed/tack store. It is important to know that if you cannot blanket your horse throughout the winter, then do not use blankets in autumn, so the horse has an opportunity to grow an adequate hair coat for winter.
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Brushing Regular brushing or grooming is important for your horse. It helps clean their coat, bring out their natural oils, and stimulates circulation. It also gives you a chance to check your horse for any skin diseases, infections, injuries. A normal horse is neither excessively itchy nor bald. Grooming is a great way to build a bond with your horse and learn more about his personality. Be cautious as some horses have very sensitive skin and can be irritated by improper grooming. Watch for a swishing tail or pinned ears when brushing certain spots, your horse is telling you he is unhappy and go easy on that spot. Also watch for a stretched upper lip, your horse is telling you that feels good! Things to include in your brushing kit: • Rubber Curry Comb (plastic or metal curry‘s are for cleaning • brushes-not horses!) • Dandy Brush (medium/hard bristled brush) • Body Brush (soft bristled brush) • Hoof pick and hoof brush (stiff small brush) • 2 Sponges/washcloth/baby wipes • Mane Comb
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Steps to Brushing: 1. The rubber curry comb helps loosen all the mud and dirt and bring loose hair and dust to the surface. Use the curry comb brush in a gentle round circular motion starting on the horses neck and moving its way across the body towards the hindquarters. Avoid bony areas (like lower legs). Use less pressure on ticklish and sensitive spots (belly, flank, face etc.). 2. Take the dandy brush and brush in the direction of hair growth flicking it in short strokes to take all the loose dust and hair off. The Dandy brush can be used to brush the entire leg. 3. Now use the body brush in longer strokes following the hair pattern. The body brush polishes the coat and is soft enough to use on the entire body. 4. Take knots and any debris out of your horses mane with your fingers. Part the hair and use the body brush to clean the skin and roots of the mane. 5. Clean around your horses eyes, nostrils, and muzzle with a dampened sponge or baby wipe. 6. Use a separate sponge or cloth to clean under the dock of the tail. 7. Pick out feet with hoof pick starting at the back of the hoof working your way to the front. Be careful not to hit the frog (soft V-shaped tissue in the middle of the hoof). Use a stiff hoof brush to brush out loose debris after all the packed debris is out.
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Signs of a Healthy Horse If you know what your horses looks and acts like when he is healthy, you will be better able to tell when he is sick. A healthy horse has a shiny coat, clear eyes, breathes easily and is responsive and alert to what is going on. He likes to eat and drinks normally. Occasionally he may lie down for up to two hours and may roll and stretch for a bit, but gets up easily. He will pass firm well formed manure around 8 times a day and his urine will be clear or a light yellow. His temperature will be between 100 and 101 Fahrenheit (37.5 to 88.5 C) (taken with a plastic digital thermometer lubricated with vegetable/ mineral oil or Vaseline and inserted about 1 cm into the rectum) Some examples of a horse that needs veterinary attention: • Horse refusing to eat or drink for more than 4 hrs • High Temperature (greater than 38.5C/101.5F) • Persistent cough (more than 5 days) • Thick white, yellow, or green discharge from nose for more than 3 days • Depression or listlessness for more than 4 hours (abnormally quiet and uninterested in surroundings) • Shivering (if not cold, or after attempts to warm a cold horse for 1 hour) • Staggering or Seizures • Agitated rolling, kicking, biting at flanks and sweating for more than 15 minutes • Dark/blood colored urine, straining to urinate, or leaking urine • Straining to pass manure or constipation • Limping, reluctance to walk freely, resting a front leg • Unusual swelling • Any cuts that start swelling or oozing foul secretions • Wound pulsing blood • Dull coat, loss of weight • Hot hoof/hooves • Eye with discharge, or swollen or held shut for more than 4 hours • Diarrhea not caused from excitement or nervousness (like trailering or being at a show) A horse can have one or more of these signs. At the first sign please call a veterinarian to determine a course of action. 19
Colic Colic can be very dangerous for horses. Colic means a horse has abdominal pain which can be caused by many physical problems, from gas to a twisted intestine to kidney stones. Horses can‘t vomit like people can, so it can be hard for a horse to recover from colic without help from you and your veterinarian. A horse that has colic may stop eating, become agitated, look or bite at their belly, lie down and get up, roll, sweat, paw the ground, stretch out as if to urinate, or even sit on their hindquarters like a dog. If you believe your horse might have colic call the vet if symptoms don‘t go away within 45 minutes. While you are waiting for the vet walk your horse slowly around and don‘t let them roll. Ways to Prevent Colic & General Health Care: • Regularly de-worming is the most important step you can take to prevent colic because parasites can permanently damage a horse‘s intestinal tract. Deworm with an approved veterinary dewormer or have fecal samples analyzed to estimate parasite load every 6-8 weeks (in south-west BC). In cold climates, less frequent deworming may be necessary in the winter. • Always have clean water available for your horse to drink. In freezing weather offer horses room temperature water. • Feeding on a schedule can help a horse from eating too fast or getting anxious about feeding time. Feed only clean hay and grain free of dust. Keep all grains locked up in horse proof containers. Make sure feed tubs, hay feeders, and water buckets are clean. Have any changes to your horses feed done slowly and gradually over ten days to two weeks. Feed small amounts often and make sure majority of diet is roughage (hay/grass). Don‘t feed hay on sand as the ingestion of sand can lead to sand colic. • Do not ride your horse after feeding it more than 2 lbs (1 kg) of grain, make sure you give at least an hour for digestion. Also make sure that your horse is completely cooled out after riding before feeding grain. • If your horse is hot and sweaty after exercise do not give lots of cold water to drink. Walk your horse until he is cool and offer him small sips of water until he is completely back to normal. • Have your horse‘s teeth examined by a veterinarian at least once per year to ensure they can chew well enough to digest feed. • Not all colic is preventable, so despite your best efforts, sometimes horses still colic and require veterinary care. Costs for treatment of colic range from $200 to $10,000. 20
Basic First Aid There are steps you can take to prevent injury and keep your horse safe. Making sure you have a safe environment for the horse is key. There should be no broken fences or nails sticking out and no junk or garbage lying around. However, even in a safe environment a horse can injure themselves. Every horse owner must be prepared for minor cuts and injuries. Keeping a simple first aid kit on hand is an easy way to stop panicking in an equine emergency. Supplies: • Plastic digital thermometer • Bandage scissors • Absorbent padding (gauze, towels) • Non-stick dressing (Telfa Pad) • List of emergency numbers • Pad of paper and pen • Antibiotic cream or ointment (ex. Hibitane cream, Polysporin) *NOT used motor oil or other substances that kill healing flesh • Wound cleanser (Betadine or Hibitane Scrub) *NOT bleach or dettol as they kill healthy flesh • Self sticking bandages (ex.Vetwrap) • Clean bucket • Flashlight • Vaseline/Petroleum Jelly • Epsom salts (for hoof problems not on skin) • Duct tape (for hoof problems not on skin) Keep calm and if possible move your horse to a safe secure place and assess the injury. Any kind of broken bones, deep punctures, or eye injuries, as well as injuries where a horse won‘t put weight on the leg - require a vet. If it has any kind of foreign object in it (glass, chunk of wood) do not remove it, you could make the injury worse, wait for the vet to come. If it is pulsating blood or bleeding at a high rate grab a clean cloth/towel and apply firm pressure to stop the bleeding until the vet comes. If necessary apply multiple layers of towels and vetwrap tightly. Don‘t remove layers to check if bleeding has slowed.
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Basic First Aid Continued For minor cuts and scrapes clean the area with the Betadine or Hibitane wound cleanser, rinse with water. If the wound is very dirty, use a steady trickle of water from a garden hose and gently clean to remove the dirt. Then dry the area and apply an antibiotic cream (Hibitane Cream, Polysporin). On legs, cover the cream with a non-stick dressing (Telfa) and a stable wrap—make sure you have someone show you how to properly wrap a leg if you don‘t know how. Improper wrapping can cause serious injury. For minor bruises and swelling without cuts, run a strong stream of cold water from a garden hose on the leg for 20 minutes three times a day for one day. If no improvement, consult a veterinarian.
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Minimum Cost to Feed and House This really depends on where you live and what you do with your horse. Expect to pay a minimum of $2000.00 per year and up from there. The costs will fluctuate with activities and housing situations. This figure does NOT include tack, grooming and barn equipment, or training fees!!
Minimum Costs Veterinary/ Farrier Care for Horses •
Deworming every 6 to 8 weeks—$20.00 per treatment (can do it yourself with an approved veterinary dewormer).
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Hoof trimming every 6 to 8 weeks—$50 per trim.
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For most horses, vaccinations are required at least once per year – the actual diseases that your horse requires vaccination against will depend on your horse‘s age and the activities you participate in. They may include Tetanus, West Nile, Rabies, Influenza, Rhino (Equine Herpes Virus), Strangles, Sleeping Sickness (Equine Encephalitis) $50-$300
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Veterinary Teeth Exam and possible floating (filing) once per year $50-$300
Total costs for this basic care are at minimum $520 per year.
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Social Time Horses are herd animals and social by nature. Horses thrive in a herd environment where they can play, groom each other and rest peacefully. Horses like to stand together nose to tail to keep the flies off on hot days and huddle for warmth in winter time. Horses feel more comfortable in a herd setting where they can take turns watching for danger and napping. A normal healthy horse would never choose to live alone. A horse by himself in a field usually is more tense and alert. Horses that live by themselves may develop bad vices due to boredom (ie. chewing, pawing, pacing, cribbing etc.) Some will pace fence lines, loose weight, act listless or act tense and skittish. Horses living alone do not learn proper socialization skills that allow them to get along with other horses and people such as respecting space. Horses can bond with other animals if there is not another horse available. Any 4 legged animal like a goat, pig, cow, or in some cases even a chicken or cat (not dogs). However, they don’t have their needs fulfilled like another horse companion would bring. Always be careful introducing a new animal (horses included!) to your horse. Slow introduction on the other side of the fence is recommended for the first couple days. This will allow them to get used to each other and lessen the chance of injury. When the animals are together make sure there is enough space for them to escape from each other if they show signs of aggression. This booklet gives the main points needed for good horse care. There are many more resources about horse keeping and training available to you. The keeping and owning of horses is a continuous learning experience and one that can bring great personal joy and offer a healthy lifestyle for you and your horse. Enjoy!
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Owner Information Owner(s) Name:___________________________________________ Address:_________________________________________________ City:___________________Province:_________Postal:___________ Telephone:______________________Fax:______________________ Email:____________________________________________________ Farm or Property Name:____________________________________
Membership Information HCBC Membership #:______________________________________ Date Joined:__________________Expiry Date:_________________
Equine Information Barn Name:_______________________________________________ Registered/Competition Name:______________________________ Breed:___________________________________________________ Sire:_________________________Dam:_______________________ Year of Birth:__________________Sex:________________________ Height:________________Colour:____________________________ Tattoo/Brand:_____________________________________________ Markings:_________________________________________________ _________________________________________________________ 25
Health Check In order to recognize when your horse is sick, you must know what their “healthy” signs are and what is normal for them. Normal Pulse: 35-40 beats per minute Normal Temperature: 100-101.5°F or 37.7 - 38.6°C (rectal) Normal Respiration: 8 - 12 per minute Attitude: Bright and Alert Coat: Should lie flat and have a sheen to it Skin: Should be loose and free of excessive scurf Eyes: Bright and full with no discharge, the membrane salmon pink Urine: Can be clear or dark and cloudy depending on the horses feed type Feces: Should be consistently the same Limbs: Should be tight and not swollen
My Horse Pulse:____________________________________________________ Temperature:______________________________________________ Respiration:_______________________________________________ Attitude:__________________________________________________ Coat:____________________________________________________ Skin:____________________________________________________ Eyes:____________________________________________________ Urine:____________________________________________________ Feces:____________________________________________________ Limbs:____________________________________________________ Other Resources Horse Welfare Alliance of Canada - www.horsewelfare.ca The Horse.Com - www.horse.com Stable Management - www.stable-management.com Equine Guelph - www.equineguelph.ca 26
Want to Learn More About Horses? HCBC offers a wide selection of horse care and training resources available to everyone, but as an HCBC member you may be eligible for further discounts or free access! Check out our HCBC online courses written by industry professionals, free informational brochures, or order from our online bookstore. HCBC‘s members only lending library offers a wide selection of books, DVD‘s and tapes for only the cost of return shipping. All these resources at just a click or phone call away.
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Join 23,000 plus other horse enthusiasts and support your equine industry! Benefits of an individual or family membership are: • $5,000,000 Liability Insurance • $30,000 Accidental Death & Dismemberment Insurance • Transportation Insurance for Non-Owned Horses • Discounts from local businesses • Special Horse Council BC rates on subscriptions to over five Canadian Horse Magazines Optional Add On Insurance also available including: • Members’ Tack Insurance; • Additional Accident, Death & Dismemberment; • Members Named Perils; • Travel Insurance; • Enhanced Personal Liability. • Member Farms. Business and Clubs are also eligible for insurance discounts. 27336 Fraser Hwy Aldergrove, BC V4W 3N5 P: 604-856-4304 TF:1 -800-345-8055 F: 604-856-4302 www.hcbc.ca Horse Council BC gratefully acknowledges the financial support of the Province of British Columbia through the Ministry of Community, Sport and Cultural Development.