Headway Spring 2019 Vol. 42 No. 3 by Headway Magazine

Grace Palmer

BRONZE GLOW WITH INOA

HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND SPRING 2019 / VOL.42 NO.3

AMMONIA-FREE COLOUR ENRICHED WITH OILS FOR A NATURAL LOOKING MULTI-DIMENSIONAL RESULT

To book an INOA demonstration contact LorealPPDNZ@loreal.com or 0800 657 666

GOD’S GIFT TO QUEENS

Give your hair the royal treatment with this season’s most desired luxury gift sets from ghd.

Featuring the Royal Treatment Deluxe Gift Set, part of the limited edition ghd Royal Dynasty collection. For more information, contact your area manager or phone 0800 880 209.

#ghdRoyalDynasty #ghdChristmas

New Zealand’s leading multi-brand distributor for the world’s most sought after beauty brands. CS&CO established the Salon Division in 2012 and is New Zealand’s home to Fudge Professional, ST Tropez, OPI, Framar, Eye of Horus, Foil Republic, Smith & Cult, Skinnies and Hot Tresses. With a team of qualified experts in their fields, the Salon Division services both hair and beauty salons and spas nationwide.

We strive to help you achieve your business goals.

www.cs.co.nz | 0800 604 604

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Re-engineered for professionals

The Professional edition

Air Multiplier™ technology Air Multiplier™ technology The volume of the air drawn The volume of the air drawn in is amplified by three times, in is amplified by three times, producing a high-pressure, producing a high-pressure, high-velocity jetjet of of air.air. high-velocity

Pulse-width modulation Pulse-width modulation Enables precise control Enables precise control of of heating element. heating element.

Annular element construction Annular element construction Annular double-stack heating element Annular double-stack heating element allows a compact barrel without allows a compact barrel without compromising heat generation. compromising heat generation. Re-engineered Re-engineered Professional Professional concentrator concentrator Wider and thinner Wider and thinner forfor precision styling, precision styling, with cool grip edges. with cool grip edges.

LED indicators LED indicators Clearly shows selected Clearly shows selected settings, and filter settings, and filter cleaning prompt. cleaning prompt.

Magnetic Magnetic Attachments Attachments Secure magnetic Secure magnetic attachments for attachments for 360° hold. 360° hold.

Helps protect hair from Helps protect hair from extreme heat damage extreme heat damage Intelligent heat control Intelligent heat control measures air temperature measures air temperature 20 times a second. 40 times a second.

Precise settings Precise settings 3 speed settings 3 speed settings and 4 heat settings, and 4 heat settings, including cool shot. including cool shot.

Acoustically tuned Acoustically tuned

One inaudible frequency. One inaudible frequency.

Light inin the hand Light the hand

The 27mm diameter motor The 27mm diameter motor is positioned in in the handle, is positioned the handle, forfor balance. balance. Improved filter, Improved filter, built for salons built for salons Magnetic, removable Magnetic, removable and washable, with and washable, with filter cleaning brush. filter cleaning brush.

Negative ions Negative ions Charged particles Charged particles in the air helps reduce in the air helps reduce static in the hair. static in the hair.

Fast drying Fast drying

Dyson digital motor V9 Dyson digital motor V9 spins at up to 110,000rpm. spins at up to 110,000rpm. Vibration sound reduction mount Vibration sound reduction mount A rubber isolation mount prevents the motor A rubber isolation mount prevents the motor from vibrating against the inside from vibrating against the inside of of thethe handle, reducing thethe transfer of of noise handle, reducing transfer noise between the motor and the case. between the motor and the case.

Longer cable Longer cable 3.3 metres, for 3.3 metres, for freer movement. freer movement.

Only at dyson.com.au/supersonic-professional-signup Only at Dyson.co.nz/stylist #dysonprohair

contents Hair 16 EDITOR’S LETTER PROFILE 28 COIFFEUR KING: 5 minutes with NZ Hairdresser of the Year, Danny Pato

30 POWER PLAYERS: Top NZ

hairdressers share their spring favourites

37 ONE TO WATCH: Chatting with actress & L’Oréal Professionnel Ambassador Grace Palmer

46 THE BEAUTY OF BALAYAGE: Peter

Thomson talks about his love for this colour art

76 TIME TO SHINE: Introducing Rodney Wayne’s Creative & Education Director, Newton Cook

FOCUS 44 COPYCAT COLOUR: Top five colour picks celebrity colourists are crushing on

64 CURRENT SALON & COLOR BAR:

A look at this striking award-winning salon in Virginia, USA

66 WELLNESS IN-SALON: Why

wellness is crucial to salon culture and how to implement it

74 SCALP CARE IS THE NEW

SKINCARE: Putting your best scalp forward for your healthiest hair ever

84 CATWALK CUE: Mana Dave shares

his favourite runway looks and how to work these in-salon

40 CATHARSIS

INTERNATIONAL 40 CATHARSIS: By Scott Sloan 56 GOTHIC NOIR: By the Australian Intercoiffure Artistic Team

78 ILLUSION: By Royals Hair Artistic Team

89 ICONIC: By Thomas Hills 96 CULTURE: By Jamie Stevens

107

Mii Amo

Beauty 114 BEAUTY NEWS FOCUS 120 POWER PLAYERS: Experts share

their industry stories and fave spring trends

124 GYM SKIN: Fresh-faced products to use before, during and after exercise

126 SPRING CLEAN: This season’s best cleansing products

128 BODY TALK Embracing the

movement towards body love

130 SPA SPACES: The importance of looking beyond skin care in-spa

12 headway.net.nz

114 Beauty News

APPEARANCE MEDICINE 132 GROWING YOUNGER: Dr

Catherine Stone on the privilege of growing older

WELLNESS 137 HIGH PERFORMER: We chat to Dr

Ron Goedeke on the benefits of CBD Oil

140 INTERMITTANT FASTING: Dr Karen Coates explores the science behind this trend

FEISTY COLOR. FIERCE FADE PROTECTION. NEW POWERHOUSE REDS • Protects haircolor from UV exposure and premature fading caused by everyday aggressors • Delivers up to 2X the shine* • Featuring bond-building ArgiPlex™ Technology

NEW SHADES

WITH

COMPLEX TO HELP REDS STAY TRUE UP TO 40 SHAMPOOS**

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Exclusively distributed by Sabre Corporation / 0800 456 426 joico.com.au / @joicoaustralianz

*vs. untreated damaged hair. **Color fades on tone; color is still there after 40 washes. HAIR & COLOR: Rick Henry PHOTO Hama Sanders

HAIR BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND / SPRING 2019 / VOL.42 NO.3

WHAT WE LOVE MOST ABOUT THE SPRING SEASON? “Roadtrips. I cannot wait to spend more time outside with the display of spring flowers bursting into colourful life...Cherry blossoms are arguably one of my favourites”

CONTENT EDITOR Charmaine Guest charmaine@selfcaregroup.co.nz

“Spring flowers, especially tulips, sunny days with a cool breeze, and new season fashion.”

CREATIVE Art Director Olivia Wimsett olivia@owndesign.co.nz Junior Designer Samai Azeez samai@selfcaregroup.co.nz Beauty Writer Sharleen Singh sharleen@selfcaregroup.co.nz PRINTING Print Management – Graeme Brazier Ltd gb@gbltd.co.nz EDITORIAL CONTRIBUTORS Charmaine Guest, Dr Karen Coates, Mana Dave, Shannah Kennedy, Annabelle Matson, Alyssa McArley, Lyndall Mitchell, Anne O’Brien, Sharleen Singh, Dr Catherine Stone, Timely Salon Software ADVERTISING CONTACT charmaine@selfcaregroup.co.nz

EDITORIAL Editorial and pictorial submissions are welcomed. All pictures, prints, manuscripts, and electronic media should be marked with the contributor’s name, contact phone number and address. No material will be returned unless requested and accompanied by a stamped, addressed envelope. No liability or responsibility can be accepted for any loss or damage. CIRCULATION Headway is widely circulated throughout New Zealand hair, beauty, nail salons and spas. COVER L'Oréal Professionnel INTERNATIONAL SUBSCRIPTIONS 1yr (4 issues) for $95 (including GST and postage) 2yrs (8 issues) for $180 (including GST and postage)

HEADWAY® INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND published by Self Care Group Ltd, 1016A Great South Road, Penrose, Auckland. HEADWAY is published quarterly in March, June, September and December. It is distributed to all paid subscribers, advertisers and their assigns, and widely circulated through New Zealand professional hairdressing and beauty care salons. All statements, including product claims, are those of the person or organisation making them and do not necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher. While every care is taken, no liability is assumed or accepted by the publishers for any omissions or errors in articles, listings and advertisements, or any losses due to any omissions or errors. ©2019 Self Care Group Limited. HEADWAY®, ‘HEADWAY INTERNATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FASHION NEW ZEALAND”, and “New Zealand HAIR & BEAUTY” are trademarks of Self Care Group Ltd. All articles, illustrations and materials published herein are copyright and are not to be copied, reproduced or distributed in anyway without the express permission of the publisher. All rights reserved.

14 headway.net.nz

CONNECT WITH US HEADWAY MAGAZINE HEADWAYMAGAZINE HEADWAY.NET.NZ EMAIL US CHARMAINE@SELFCAREGROUP.CO.NZ

“Being surrounded by colour again, from floral dresses, to spring flowers. The hay fever is totally worth it!”

NEW BLONDE LIFE

QUICK TONE LIQUI-CRÈME TONER

BEFORE

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Intermixable shades to customise toning and correct any RPC issue With anti-breakage and bond-building Arginine Infused with Blonde Life’s unique oil blend Ammonia-free formulas leave hair in better condition - even on damaged, color-treated, or bleached hair

#livetheblondelife Model toned with Quick Tone Liqui-Creme Toner in Silver Exclusively distributed by Sabre Corporation / 0800 456 426 / joico.com.au / @joicoaustralianz HAIR & COLOR Larisa Love

PHOTO Hama Sanders

editor’s letter

EDITOR’S PICKS Kérastase Nutritive 8H Magic Night Serum

Sothys Contour Lip Pencil in Universal

Thalgo Exfoliating Shower Gel Eye Of Horus Bio Lip Elixir

16 headway.net.nz

his issue’s theme is ‘Power’ and we celebrate this in all its positive forms. There’s the power of a new cut and colour, the power of wearing a gorgeous new outfit, the power a new skincare or haircare range can bring to our business, the power of personal wellbeing and self-care. We’ve loaded up on all things inspiring this season: influencers, fashion, products, collections, trends, advice from wellbeing and business gurus, and beautiful new hair collections – in the hope our readers can find a quote or look that empowers them in some way. We loved talking to our ‘Power Players’ this issue: from award-winning hairstylists, through to skincare and makeup experts. Kiwi actress and all-round stunner, Grace Palmer, has just been appointed L’Oréal Professionnel Ambassador, and we chat to her about beauty, style and her upcoming creative projects. We admit, we’re totally crushing on this down-to-earth, inspirational woman and her (often hilarious) Instaposts. Peter Thomson, Balayage extraordinaire, is coming to New Zealand next month and he shares top tips and how his brand has bloomed through social media, while Rodney Wayne welcomes a new Creative and Education Director, Newton Cook. We get the low-down from the man himself on his career progression and fulfilling his dreams. The winter season takes its toll on many of us, with endless grey, rainy days, coughs and colds, and a general feeling of discontent as we wait for the sunnier weather to brighten our spirits. Two features really resonated with me this edition and helped give me the inspired ‘lift’ I needed to get me out of my end-of-winter slump. ‘Strength’ by wellness experts and authors, Lyndall Mitchell and Shannah Kennedy, discusses how to find your strengths and use these signature powers every day to boost long-term happiness and positivity, allowing you to focus on what you really enjoy doing. Success coach Annabelle Matson shares the three most common ways we block ourselves from taking action towards our dreams and how to overcome them. I re-read these articles several times and have vowed to take action! What else is inspiring us this season? Fashion! NZ Fashion Week got us all excited over up-and-coming designers and choosing potential wardrobe items for 2020. While we were busy making mental notes on the clothes, we were also admiring the hair looks, created by our talented Kiwi hairstylists. You can check out some of our favourites in ‘What’s Trending’. So, welcome the power and beauty of spring into your salon or spa (when it finally arrives) and enjoy our new season issue.

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THE NEW OI HAIR BUTTER PROVIDES DEEP, BEAUTIFYING NOURISHMENT FOR ALL HAIR TYPES. ENHANCED WITH THE ANTI-AGING POWER OF ROUCOU OIL, IT PROVIDES EXTRAORDINARY SHINE AND SOFTNESS TO THE HAIR WHILE HELPING TO MANAGE FRIZZ. OI HAIR BUTTER COMES IN CARBON NEUTRAL PACKAGING, OFFSET BY REFORESTATION PROJECTS AROUND THE WORLD.

ike all good stories, Chrissy de Mey’s one starts in small town New Zealand, and quickly becomes a page-turner as it welcomes into its cast of characters famous hairstylists, global travel, celebrities, motherhood to 5 children, and a career that starts at a hairdressing school on Auckland’s once infamous K-Road. Now Vivo’s Central North Island Regional Manager, Chrissy lives in Tauranga, mentoring 75 stylists across 12 salons. It’s already dark outside at the cafe where we meet and inside is dim, but the light hanging above seems to illuminate the space directly around her as if she was on a stage. “I was only 16 when mum drove me from Taupo to Auckland to begin my training,” she recalls, brightly coloured

nails flashing. “I don’t think she had any idea what a colourful place K-Road was in the 1980’s!”

found something there that spoke to her. “The salon owners, they would go to these fabulous parties, roller-skating around the clubs, doing crazy things. But f the characters are colourful, then the most importantly, they ignited a spark that plot in this narrative has been all about was already in me.” How? “For the first creativity. It’s a theme 12 months of my that emerged early and apprenticeship, I had “For the first 12 months of my has gone on to define to go to the back room apprenticeship, I had to go to the her 32 year career. “I back room where the mannequin was, where the mannequin actually only made it was, and I had to and I had to stay there until I had about 3 months into that stay there until I had created something.” hairdressing course,” created something.” she muses. “I worked This creative out that if I quit and got an apprenticeship wrangling proved to be the foundation of in a salon instead, someone would pay the philosophies she still holds onto today. me while I learned!” Going to work for “To grow and progress, you have to take a boutique salon in Newmarket, Chrissy the journey to get to know yourself. Taking

ownership (“Yeah, I realised I didn’t really like GST!” she jokes), television work, motherhood and most importantly, mentorship. Within 8 weeks Chrissy of her o, what happens from this point in the role as a Vivo Salon Manager in Tauranga, story, I ask Chrissy. The answer makes she had turned the place around. “I asked us bellow with laughter. “I go to London, Vivo to pay for us to enter the prestigious of course!” Not one to do things by halves, Goldwell Colorzoom Competition, and a 21 year old Chrissy landed in the bustling when they said yes I got the whole team British metropolis and headed straight to enter. I found out later that they were for the doors of all too scared not to the salon elite. It enter!” she laughs. was the 90’s, and I walked up to door and said, ‘Hello, “But everyone British celebrity I really want to work here. I’m from realised what they hairdressers’ Trevor could do - we won, New Zealand and I can do everything!” Sorbie, and Toni everything.” What is and Guy were in her secret? “I just believe in people. And their heyday. “I went to work for both of when someone believes in you, it creates them during my time in London. I wanted confidence, at least enough to give things to learn from the best.” When asked why, a try.” So it came as no great surprise in a city that surely had thousands of when last November, Chrissy reached out hairstylists, was she offered these plum to Vivo co-owner Lynden Mason, offering positions? “Because I walked up to door herself for the Regional Managers role. “I and said, ‘Hello, I really want to work just wanted to go and mentor more people. here. I’m from New Zealand and I can do Mentoring, educating and inspiring fills my everything!” That ‘can do’ attitude is not cup”. It would be an understatement to say so much a mentality that Chrissy has, but that it’s no small cup, either. almost like an atmosphere that surrounds n a career that has traversed the full her. I pause the story to play Devil’s spectrum of the hairdressing world, Advocate. For some hairdressers, I suggest, what does she love about her most recent it’s not that easy. They simply don’t have role at Vivo? “Vivo allows me to be the confidence. But Chrissy won’t have it. connected to the industry. It has been “I am borderline fanatical on this point,” amazing as a platform that respects and Chrissy replies, her enthusiasm electric. “I rewards individualism. While of course have never thought I was the world’s best there is expectation, there is also so much hairdresser. I’m not better than anyone opportunity.” Recently, Chrissy took a team else. But I have always been passionate. of 5 young Vivo stylists to Sydney’s Hair Passion is what gives you the confidence Expo to showcase their talents in the Gen to take opportunities that will help shape Next hair fashion show. The Vivo team an amazing career. It will push you to just received the only standing ovation of the do it.” night for their cutting edge, drag-inspired fter a tour with MC Hammer and Soul show ‘Mood’. Chrissy reflects on her to Soul, Chrissy arrived back in New years as a hairstylist, grateful for what’s Zealand as a hairstylist and now a mother behind and what lies ahead. “I am really to twins (“I was back at work 6 weeks after thankful that I can say I’ve not had a job, having them!” she laughs). Showing up I’ve had a career. I have spent it trying to on famed New Zealand hairdresser Grant be the absolute best version of myself”. It’s Bettjeman’s doorstep with her portfolio, certainly not the final chapter in Chrissy Chrissy found a mentor. “He really instilled de Mey’s tale. But the moral of the story in me the idea that I need to be the best is already clear to anybody reading it: just version of myself I can be.” During these give it a go. You can do it. years, Chrissy was introduced to the world of hairdressing competitions, eventually becoming part of the national L’Oreal “I just believe in people. And when Creative Team with the likes of Richard someone believes in you, it creates Kavanagh. “I was a young mother of two, I confidence, at least enough to give thought I’d really have to fight to raise my things a try.” profile. But Grant believed in me and gave me opportunities that pushed me, that grew me. That’s what I am doing now. I want people to say, ‘That’s Chrissy. She really helped me.” away the comfort zone means you grow, and creativity is the path to removing that comfort zone”

hrough the two decades that followed Chrissy walked the talk, taking her love of hairdressing into everything including salon

IMAGE: Nicole Kae

Hair

! EW N 3 new on-trend shade extensions for The Demi Wearable, no-ammonia, diffused fashion colours Tonality lasting up to 4-6 weeks

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hair news Bronze Beauty Embrace warmer tones and add a unique glow to locks this season with L’Oréal Professionnel Le Bronzing. Inspired by the makeup bronzing trend, Le Bronzing gives hair the refresh it needs, with a natural looking, golden radiance. The Le Hair Bronzing palette offers 8 new shades, boosted with bronzing reflects, extended across MAJIREL, INOA and DIA RICHESSE: 3 shades for light bases, 3 shades for medium bases and 2 shades for dark bases. Le Bronzing offers great dimension and contrast, providing a sophisticated duo of colours with a subtle, sunkissed, bronzed effect. Blondes can soften their look with blended hues of bronze, while brunettes can go lighter with the addition of warmth. Fine hair will love the bronzing trend, as it adds dimension, giving the appearance of thicker tresses. lorealprofessionnel.co.nz

Night Duty Give dry hair a nourishing boost with Kérastase Nutritive 8H Magic Night Serum. This overnight serum deeply penetrates hair fibres for 100% absorption to restore hair balance. The milky, gel-like cream contains lavender essence to help with deep sleep. kerastase.co.nz

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KEEP YOUR COOL

Meet the ultra-violet duo made for brightening blondes. Brass-neutralizing Joico Blonde Life Violet Shampoo and Conditioner instantly freeze out unwanted yellow tones, helping restore icy beauty and brilliance to cool, blonde hair. The pair work in tandem to rid hair of unwanted brassiness and restore nourishment to delicate blondes. joico.co.nz

HAIR news

Design-Wise Comfortel’s Furniture Colour Table in Natural Ash with timberlook finish is the centre piece for any salon. This finely-crafted table also provides wireless charging for every client, doing sophisticated double-duty. Simply add Comfortel’s Halo Double Salon Mirror to convert it into a 4-client work station. comfortel.co.nz

ghd Glide Returns The cult product that saw beauty lovers go into a frenzy after it soldout globally in less than a month, is back in NZ. The ghd glide hot brush tames and smooths dry hair quickly and effortlessly, restoring the look of a salon blow-dry in seconds. Perfect for soft volume and beautiful sleek styles, this is second-day styling at its best. ghdhair.com/nz

Next Level De Lorenzo Novaplex, a vegan-certified premium bond-linking system for creating strong bonds and improving hair integrity, outperformed the leading competitor during independent testing carried out by Princeton University. Novaplex was shown to reduce hair breakage during lightening by 71%. Compatible with all hair types and textures, Novaplex penetrates deep into the cortex to protect existing bonds and restore broken ones, providing softness, shine and manageability. phb.net.nz

GOLD CLASS

Discover the gold standard of professional repair with L’Oréal Professionnel’s Serie Expert Absolut Repair Gold range. Powered by Gold Quinoa protein and with a renovation under its belt, Absolut Repair now reduces hair damage by 77%, with 7x shinier hair, leaving it with a lightweight touch. The luxe range features a Gold Shampoo, Conditioner, Serum, Brush Cream, Masque, Repair Masque and the new Resurfacing Golden Masque. This new addition, with a cream-in-gel texture, immediately leaves hair glossy and silk-like. lorealprofessionnel.co.nz

Boxes Of Love Davines is getting festive, reminding us of why we give: to show people we love how much we care. Davines’ Holiday Gift Packs come in adorable boxes, each telling a story of care, protection and love in everyday life. The reusable boxes are made with FSC eco cardboard and contain a selection of bestselling products.be.co.nz

headway.net.nz 25

Liquid Shine You might know everything about lacquers for lips and nails. Now imagine that same shine and saturation with hair colour. Colourists can create the perfect hair colour with ultimate shine using Redken’s new Color Gel Lacquers. Organised into four new colour segment families, this permanent hair colour line offers longlasting, rich colour results and 100% grey coverage full of glossiness. The low-ammonia product line provides the high saturation of a cream with the shine of liquid permanent colour and can be used with either a brush and bowl or bottle for versatile application. The Lacquers are also formulated to be UV-stable for exceptional holding power and resistance to fade. Plus, exclusive new dye technologies feature in three of its Fashion Colour families: Red/Red, Red/Violet, and Red/Orange. Here’s to a root-to-tip bold new look. redken.co.nz

WINNING FORM

Congratulations to Moha Hairdressing co-owner, Kylie Hayes from Dunedin, who scored the Overall Merit Award in the Global Hair Shots 2 The World Competition. Kylie was inspired to enter the competition because, “I had seen what ‘Hair Shots 2 The World’ had done to help profile other hair artists,” she says. “I knew I needed to get on board with a well-recognised PR company and was so excited to be awarded the opportunity to do this.” hairshots2theworld.com

BLOW-DRY BFF

More powerful and more silent than ever, the new Parlux 3200 PLUS has undergone a technical restyling, combining the power associated with a new one-suction concept to ensure quieter, faster drying. Designed to optimise drying thanks to a greater airflow, a reduced weight on all components and new ergonomic handle ensure perfect balance and comfort for users. dateline.co.nz

Natural Born Beauty Introducing Kemon’s Actyvabio range, the first organic professional haircare line certified to the COSMOS ORGANIC standard. Enriched with soothing phyto-complexes, the products contain up to 97% natural-origin ingredients, 86% organic ingredients and come in recycled and recyclable packaging. The 7-product line includes a Moisturising & Softening Mask, Shampoo, Balm, Body Wash and Body Milk, a Gentle Cleansing Gel Shampoo and an in-salon Detoxifying Treatment. kemon.com

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HAIR news

DRY STYLE

MADE TO MEASURE

Y.S Park introduce the 185mm ‘Cutting Comb With Grip’ and 218mm ‘Volumising Teasing Comb’, both made from IMIDO plastic, which is 220°C heat-resistant and chemicalresistant. The Cutting Comb has a shortened first tooth for separating hair easily and offers two different teeth spacing, fine and regular. The Volumising Teasing Comb has a zig-zag design to gather hair and create volume, along with three rows of teeth for great volume with precise detail. phb.net.nz

Redken welcome two new styling products to their session stable. Triple Dry 15 Texturizing Spray provides hair with airy volume and beachy texture, without the crunch. Perfect for creating an undone, effortless finish on hairstyles. Hybrid product, Redken Dry Shampoo 05 Paste, is half dry shampoo/ half styling paste that offers reworkable hold with the freshness of a dry shampoo. Work a small amount onto fingertips and apply at the roots and through the mid-lengths. redken.co.nz

Blonde Renewal Joico Blonde Life has transformed with stylish ease-of-use packaging. Smart Release Technology means Joico’s triplepowered, healthy hair ingredients are packed inside an invisible liposome, which delivers continuous damage protection. The range keeps blondes bright for 8 weeks, nourishing and strengthening for glossier, hydrated blondes. joico.co.nz

Super Spray Experience the benefits of Keratin Complex’s proprietary keratin with Keratin Obsessed MultiBenefit Treatment Spray This all-in-one spray is bursting with keratin and packed with 30 nourishing benefits that deliver healthier, stronger, more vibrant hair instantly dateline.co.nz

New Hues Paul Mitchell has released two new ammonia-free ‘The Demi’ collections in time for spring. The ‘Intensely Cool Collection’ offers soft toning to neutralize warmth or brighten the lightest level blondes, with rich results lasting 4 to 6 weeks. The intermixable shades gently condition to enhance shine and colour vibrancy. Also new is ‘Muted Metallics’, a dreamy play on pastels. The three on-trend shades – Rose Gold, Lavender, and Silver – create stunning pastel metallics of delicate, opalescent colour that’s wearable for all. phb.net.nz

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hair profile

COIFFEUR KING 5 minutes with Hair Expo New Zealand Hairdresser of the Year, Danny Pato

When I won Hair Expo NZ Hairdresser of the Year for the 4th consecutive year, I felt…shocked, overwhelmed, sweaty moustache and lips shaking. I don’t know how I made it through my speech.

My biggest career highlights have been…my baby D&M being born 13 years ago, raising $28,000 for disadvantaged Kiwi kids through KidsCan, and setting up The Directory.

I would credit my success in this industry to…hard work, consistent focus, and loving what I do more than anything else.

My industry mentors are…my salon team.

My husband Ryland would describe me as...passionate.

I consider my best and worst traits to be…I get things done and I want everything done yesterday.

I would describe my hairdressing aesthetic as…classic with a contemporary, personal twist.

In terms of recruiting staff, the most important things I look for are…kindness and uniqueness. When I begin working on a collection, I always…start with

The last thing I read was…Netflix!! I would describe my sense of style as…something that changes with my mood. Usually Japanese streetwear or avant garde.

My favourite colours and styles for the spring/summer season are…

When I woke up today, my first thought was…I’m hungry.

My favourite holiday memory is…watching the sun rise Christmas

28 headway.net.nz

No, snakes. And rats. Actually all of them.

figuring out the story I want to tell.

big hair, short fringes, natural coppers, expensive-looking blondes and sunkissed chocolates.

dandmhairdesign dannypatohair

I am most fearful of…cockroaches.

morning 2018 in Bali, naked on a cliff top (I shared a pic but Instagram took it down!).

I don’t leave the house without… changing my outfit five times.

Before I go to bed, I always…cuddle my dog Bruiser.

If I could give my younger self one piece of advice, it would be…spend more time with dad.

THE STORY OF AN ORIGINAL Moroccanoil Treatment delivers unparalleled shine, softness and nourishment. The original all-in-one essential that stands the test of time.

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hair profile

Power Players Five top New Zealand hairdressers, who are featured or have contributed in some way to our spring edition, share their favourite spring trends, products and fashion staples

Richard Kavanagh Session Stylist richardkavanagh

Cut of the moment? Bella Hadid’s pixie cut.

Colours trending on the runway?

Top product pick currently? Redken Dry Shampoo Powder. Awesome this season to soak up any excess oil.

Your spring/summer style? Mine is nineties, smart-casual. Actually, just casual haha!

Iridescent blonde, soft apricot, honey gold, chocolate and mocha.

@lametgala

Use a natural, oil-based hair cream or lightweight pomade to control frizz in fine, light hair. Always ensure your clients maintain good hair health. That means, getting them in for regular cuts, colour, in-salon protein and moisture treatments for strength and shine, and a professional, at-home, haircare regime.

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blaze_hair

Cut of the moment? The mullet, the momu, the shag call it what you want. Elongated and choppy #loveit.

Vintage pastels from Josh Wood for Marc Jacobs. Pastels with a more lived-in, antique feel.

Hair looks you’re loving? Baby bangs, curtain bangs and faux bangs. They frame the face and create the illusion of the perfect face shape. Oh, and polished perfection. Hair has shine again - yay! @joshwoodcolour

@bellahadid

Your best styling tip for spring/summer?

Blaze Hair, Auckland

Colours trending on the runway?

Hair looks you’re loving? Polished and highly-executed technical haircuts, with seamless dimensional colour. Hair like blown glass: from sleek, straight, shiny, precise haircuts, through to polished, coiffed, sixtiesinspired luxe.

Mana Dave

Your best styling tip for spring/summer? Shine starts from within, so start a night-time ritual for hair.

Top product pick currently? Redken Glow Dry Diamond Oil is my ‘one thing I can’t live without’ product.

Your fave spring/summer style? The perfect pair of sunglasses is like a superhero power. You can look uber-stylish and be invisible when you want to be.

@trelisecooper

Zoe Clark

INCO Studio, Auckland incostudio.ponsonby

Kylie Hayes

Cut of the moment? I’m loving the 70s vibe – heavy, weighted fringes and ‘shag’ layers. I’m surprised how many clients are requesting a fringe using the word ‘bangs’. Hair is shorter. Clients are embracing the shorter, more sophisticated looks we are offering.

Colours trending on the runway? It’s exciting to see fiesta-coloured clothing commanding the runway! I adore textural clothing and fashion has always inspired my hair looks.

Hair looks you’re loving? I’m encouraging my guests to embrace their curls. Voluminous curls are so sexy. Paired with a mullet would be my hair heaven!

I always encourage people to be brave, own their individual look, and stand out in a crowd.

Top product pick currently? Loving Wella’s System Professional range, especially the Luxe Oil Reconstructive Elixir. It infuses into the hair structure to transform hair from the inside out, with immediate results. Every client is entranced by the smell!

Your fave spring/summer style? I’m addicted to silk organza shirts with oversized bows (Trelise Cooper has done this so well). I also believe you can’t go wrong with a power suit: the brighter, the bolder, the better!

Colours trending on the runway?

Michael Beel

We are seeing a return to colour, which is amazing. Pinks, greens and blues.

Buoy Hairdressing, Wellington buoysalonandspa

Hair looks you’re loving? Gone is the rich girl hair; it’s now ‘cool girl’ hair. A little more texture, up or down, which is effortless and gorgeous.

Cut of the moment? I’m loving cutting in a textured shape at the moment, encouraging any natural movement and texture. The silhouette falling somewhere between an 80s-inspired shag and a good old mullet.

Your best styling tip for spring/summer? Embrace and enhance your natural movement.

Top product pick currently? L’Oréal Professionnel TECNI.ART Pli Shaper, which is a thermomodelling memory spray. It creates lived-in texture and enhances body and movement.

Colours trending on the runway? Natural, subdued vibes with hidden flashes of multi-tonal subtlety to encourage natural texture and movement.

Your spring/summer style? I’m a massive fan of natural materials during summer while in the salon. Maggie Marilyn, Campbell Luke and Mina would be my go-to’s.

Hair looks you’re loving? Any shape that accentuates texture…can you tell I love textured hair? I’m more of a shorter hair type of guy as well!

@maggiemarilyn

Your best styling tip for spring/ summer?

Definitely a chic French bob.

Your best styling tip for spring/summer? Use leave-in treatments, such as Kérastase Crème Magistrale, to protect hair against summer damage and encourage shine and suppleness.

Top product pick currently? L’Oréal Professionnel TECNI.ART Savage Panache. It’s like a dry shampoo meets hairspray. It gives a lived-in vibe to the hair – love it! Your fave spring/summer style? A great pair of sunnies, a light shirt, shorts and jandals, with a glass of champagne in my hand! Effortless and relaxed.

@minaforher

mohahairdressing

Cut of the moment?

@campbell_luke_

Moha Hairdressing, Dunedin

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HEADWAY promotion

EXILE HAIR DESIGN This salon space brings the outdoors in with a natural, urban edge

ocated in the affluent suburb of Epsom, Auckland, Exile Hair Design wanted to create a salon that was an open, modern, eco-space with lots of light. To achieve this ‘eco urban’ environment, Exile Hair Design mixed black metal and timber, with plenty of indoor plants and ‘reindeer moss’ walls. Their signature three metre ficus tree steals the show and has become a statement piece within the salon. The salon furniture pieces selected included Comfortel’s Metal Salon Joiner, combined with their LED Circa Mirror, and Ash Timber Double bench to maximise the amount of stations for their space. Owner of Exile Hair Design, Jo Plant, says that, “Comfortel provides a difference in salon 32 headway.net.nz

furniture that’s both modern and affordable.” With minimal wall space, Comfortel’s salon-smart Reflections Metal Joiner Frame was the perfect choice for achieving the aesthetic. Combined with the bucket-style salon chair Chloe, brass pendant lights completed the look. “All the stations are moveable, which allows a different configuration depending on where they are placed,” says Jo. “This creates a work space that changes and evolves. The look is simplistic and serene. It was important to have happy, healthier staff. I wanted clients to be wowed. Overall, the new fit-out has impacted with a positive growth to the business.”

How to get the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Eco Urbanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; salon look: Play with Plants The easiest way to bring the outside in is by decorating with plants. Having living, breathing plants in your salon will instantly give your space a more natural feel.

Combine with Natural-Looking Materials Timber or timber-look textures, in all its forms, is the most versatile of natural materials and pairs perfectly with black to give it a more natural, eco look.

Mix Black Signature Furniture Pieces Whether its black upholstery or matte black metal, add in black for an urban feel. It works perfectly with the greenery for a modern edge.

SALON: Exile Hair Design, 2B Ngaroma Road, Epsom, Auckland SALON OWNER: Jo Plant SALON FURNITURE: Comfortel Furniture BUILDER: Revamp Construction SALON DESIGN: Orb Design Group, www.orbdesign.co.nz PHOTOGRAPHY: Hazel and Woods @hazel_and_woods exilehairdesign www.exilehairdesign.co.nz

Hair focus

Bring Out The Best

Long Hair Love

Longer locks need extra attention. Just a drop or two of Joico K-Pak Protect & Shine Serum and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re talking unparalleled gleam, colour vibrancy, and protection against dryness, frizzies and flyaways. Or for 10 benefits in a bottle, Brelil BioTraitement Hair BB Cream is the ticket. This leave-in cream spray does everything from smoothing, hydrating, protecting, repairing and nourishing, through to style-enhancing benefits.

Formulated for long, breakage-prone hair, Davines Melu Conditioner enhances strength and resilience, hydrating dry ends. The light formula leaves hair glossy and soft without weighing it down. KĂŠrastase Resistance Extentioniste Thermique Length Caring Gel Cream is a leave-in treatment and blow-dry cream that reinforces and strengthens hair from root to tip, preventing tension and split ends to smooth, detangle and restore.

GOING TO Keep longer lengths in tip-top shape with these spring product picks

GREATER LENGTHS Turn Up The Volume

Style Savvy

Give long lengths some extra body with Fudge Salt Spray. Great for raw texture, flexibility and light hold. We also love KEVIN.MURPHY BEDROOM.HAIR for tousled, sexy looks. This bottle of touchable texture, separation and movement still allows you to run your fingers through from roots to tips. Making finer hair look and feel thicker is KMS ADDVOLUME Style Primer, which provides volume and structure, perfectly priming for next-level volume styles.

The perfect finish for a fresh matte look, La Biosthetique Powder Spray gives hair structure and body, and is ideal for quick re-styling, while Moroccanoil Molding Cream is great for sculpting and creating perfectly texturized hair. To fight frizz and extend style longevity, try Keratin Complex KeraBalm, which cares for hair and creates a smooth canvas for styling.

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Collection: Apricity by Karine Jackson Hair: Karine Jackson using Organic Colour Systems Photography: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole Make up: Margaret Aston Styling: Mel Nixon Assistants: Organic Colour Systems Australasian Education Manager Nichola Hand and Tatum Yeo

Natural chemistry. Maximum results.

HEADWAY promotion

Go Green With Refoil Create a sustainable salon future and make foil waste history

Colourists who care now have a choice Refoil is Australia’s first sustainable salon foiling concept, taking a lifestyle approach to ensure the best quality foil with the least impact on the environment. Care for the environment is at the heart of everything Refoil does; from design, manufacturing and packaging, right through to disposal. Yet, Refoil allows no compromise in terms of creativity or quality for hairdressers. The raw material Refoil utilises comes from a mix of pre-and post-consumer recycled aluminium, ranging from leftover factory aluminium scrap, to recycled content collected from recycling centres, using a fraction of the energy needed to produce raw aluminium and 36 headway.net.nz

cutting the need for destructive opencast mining that damages the landscape. To provide premium quality, Refoil have balanced the recycled content with a small quantity of other minerals and metals derived from new sources. Plus, all Refoil products are also infinitely recyclable.

Education & Collaboration Refoil believes education is the cornerstone of sustainable development within the hairdressing industry, so they provide information to help salons become more sustainably-minded. They believe achieving sustainable growth is only possible by working together with the wider community and collaborating with other stakeholders, such as product manufacturers, hair salons, recyclers and the government to make a real difference. Therefore, Refoil collaborates on awareness-building and recycling campaigns, aiming at an industry goal of zero waste. Refoil is available from: Professional Hair Brands. (07) 78 478 350 sales@phb.net.nz www.phb.net.nz

PHOTOGRAPHY: Shutterstock

ur industry is creative, rewarding and exciting but what about the impact the hairdressing industry has on the planet? In New Zealand, hairdressers throw away hundreds of thousands of foils every year which go straight to the landfill, at a massive cost to the environment. It takes 500 years for this foil waste to degrade. Enter Refoil!

hair profile

Grace Palmer

race Palmer, the stunning New Zealand actress, has been announced as the new L’Oréal Professionnel Ambassador. The bronze-kissed beauty talks about her latest ambassadorship and No-Damage Colour with INOA* *Colour after colour, hair quality is visibly improved: consumer test, Europe, 408 women & 589 hairdressers.

Hair by L’Oréal Professionnel Artist Zoe Clark.

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hair profile

One To Watch Fun, down-toearth, talented (not to mention gorgeous), NZ actress Grace Palmer is the new Ambassador for L’Oréal Professionnel. Our spring cover star talks to Headway about her new role, favourite looks, fashion, and upcoming creative projects.

lorealpro #lorealpronz gracemmpalmer

How do you feel about being the new L’Oréal Professionnel Ambassador? So privileged! I’ve always had copious amounts of hair - far too much for one head - and L’Oréal Professionnel have taught me what to do with it. I’m so excited to work with their incredibly talented team.

You’ve been a fan of L’Oréal Professionnel colour and products for several years now. What do you love most about the brand? I first began using L’Oréal Professionnel products when I was transitioning from blonde to brunette, and there stemmed my appreciation for the brand. Every product does exactly as it says and my hair has never been healthier. I rarely need to style it (thankfully, because I’m a bit useless), as it naturally falls with enough bounce and body.

Your hair for this shoot was coloured with INOA No-Damage Colour*. How important to you is protecting your hair with an 38 headway.net.nz

ammonia-free colour? As a teenager, I was constantly colouring my hair. Most of my colour and style choices were very cringe and seriously questionable, and the condition of my hair was at an all-time low. So now I really work hard to nurture and appreciate my hair. The less chemicals the better.

L’Oréal Professionnel have created a new trend called ‘Le Bronzing’. It looks gorgeous. What do you think of your new hair look? I love the natural-looking colour - hella natural and glossy. I mean, I would be lying if I said it didn’t look fabulous (said with with a shamefully coy smile). I always have the utmost faith in the L’Oréal Professionnel team.

As an actress, how does your job affect your hair? I try not to be too precious when I’m working, as I’m hired to be a chameleon and need to roll with whatever’s best for the character. However, it’s always

wonderful to work with hair and makeup artists who are as passionate about your hair style as you are. Having it blow-waved and styled every day does take its toll, so quality heatprotecting products are important.

What would your top three L’Oréal Professionnel hair picks be? Smartbond Step 3 Conditioner – I can’t live without this stuff. It makes my hair feel amazing. Mythic Oil Huile Originale is my go-to heat-protectant and Nutrifier DD Balm for dry ends on the go.

We love your Instagram. Which Insta-feeds are you obsessed with?

HAIR: Zoe Clark - L’Oréal Professionnel Artist and owner Inco Studio. M AKE UP: Lisa Matson C LOTH ING: Maggie Marilyn ST Y LIST: Tori Ambler PHOTOGR APH E R: Babiche Martens

I’m ashamed to share some of the silly accounts that make me giggle, so here are a few of my more mature favourites: Jameela Jamil, Vice and Vice News, and Chrissy Teigen.

Are you a big fashion lover? BIG TIME. Unfortunately that doesn’t make me fashionable. I’ve been told my taste is rather eclectic, and sometimes I catch my own reflection and think “what am I wearing?” I’m drawn to anything colourful, comfy and sassy.

How would you describe your day-to-day style? Picture a 12 year old boy who wears all his favourite things at once because he can’t decide. Comfort is also key, cause it looks good to feel good and it feels good to look good.

Who inspires you? My Mámá. She’s unconditionally selfless and incredibly inspiring. I’m also a HUGE Jacinda Ardern fan. I’d probably faint/cry/vomit if I ever had the pleasure of meeting her.

We’d love to hear what you’ve been up to since Shortland Street. How’s the acting career going?

What does beauty mean to you?

Great thank you. I shot a film, worked on an AMC series called The Dead Lands (soon be released internationally), have been writing a comedy series with my sister Eve and friend Nick, and I’m about to begin rehearsals for my first ever professional theatre show with Massive Company. It’s not always busy, which tends to frustrate me, but I’m learning to embrace it. Unpredictability is the nature of this bizz, and I love this bizz, so the downtime between jobs is where I strive to be as well-rounded as possible.

Diversity. Imagine how dull this world would be if we all looked the same.

*Colour after colour, hair quality is visibly improved: consumer test, Europe, 408 women & 589 hairdressers.

What’s your big night out grooming ritual? I stay in my ‘crazy cat lady’ robe for as long as possible. Makeup, then hair, then outfit (which usually takes the longest, especially when my options are limited because I forgot to shave my legs). All whilst listening to some groovy 70s bangers to get me in the mood.

GRACE’S FAVOURITES

Netflix Obsession: Bo Burnham - Make Happy Book: Brief Answers To The Big Questions by Stephen Hawking Designer: Jacquemus Food: Vegetarian Lasagne Film: Mean Girls Holiday Destination: New York Actor: Christoph Waltz Scent: Jo Malone - Hemlock & Bergamot

headway.net.nz 39

CATHARSIS By SCOTT SLOAN

HAIR international

HAIR: Scott Sloan @Sloans, NSW, Australia PHOTOGRAPHY: Andrew Oâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Toole MAKEUP: Chereine Waddell FASHION STYLING: Jana Bartolo headway.net.nz 41

HAIR international

I NS PI R ATIO N An unadulterated exploration of shape and form, Catharsis is a celebration of the transformative power of hairdressing. Cast with a distinct undertone of moody energy, there is an awakening and sense of abandon in these looks. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The role of texture in the creation of structure is the driving force behind each look,â&#x20AC;? says award-winning hairdresser, Scott Sloan, who has experimented with layering and contrast of differing textures within each image. Each look represents its own dark and distinct identity, yet each has emerged from the same source, subtly infusing the next.

headway.net.nz 43

COPYCAT COLOUR The top five hair colour picks celebrity colour aficionados are currently crushing on

hen it comes to hair trends, nothing is ever really ‘out’. That being said, there are looks that naturally come and go. Thanks to social media, it’s easy to see that your favourite influencers and celebrities are rocking similar, gorgeous shades. That’s how trends are born. We headed directly to the international experts of colour who know what’s blowing up on the trend front, often led by the cult of celebrity. Here’s the lowdown on must-have colours to try for the spring/summer season.

Dirty Brunette

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Antique Gold Let white blonde take a back seat for this fresher take on platinum hair. Colourist Rachel Bodt dyed model/ actress Andreja Pejic’s hair “antique gold” for the Rome International Film Festival premiere of her new movie. Bodt says this shade makes her think of “old Hollywood glamour.” Antique gold hair takes on the colour of champagne thanks to a mix of warm and cool hues. It’s more beige than ice-blonde, but equally as stunning. Model Elsa Hosk and actress Michelle Williams have also been sporting this hue and we love it.

Eric Zemmour

@jessicabiel

You’ve heard of dirty blondes, but have you heard of dirty brunettes? “The hue is a natural-looking brunette that incorporates dark blonde pieces with a more neutral, smoky vibe,” says hairstylist Riawna Capri of Los Angeles’s Nine Zero One Salon. Capri says a dirty brunette’s highlights don’t “compromise a brunette’s brown hair,” meaning they shouldn’t lean too far into blonde territory. For example, Ciara’s hair is still a rich, pretty brown but it’s illuminated with neutral highlights. “Dirty brunette is a nice change for those who are normally cool or super warm,” adds Capri. “It’s a perfect balance of both.” Actress Jessica Biel keeps her neutral highlights looking natural with laid-back waves.

HAIR focus

@busyphilipps

It’s rare Julia Roberts surprises us with a hair transformation. While promoting her movie ‘Ben Is Back’, Roberts debuted a shade that looks a lot like Pantone’s 2019 Colour of the Year - Living Coral as did actress Busy Philipps. Influenced by Marc Jacobs’ spring 2019 runway show, delicate peachy hues have also had a tough makeover. Dirty peach is an edgier and more refreshing alternative for those daring to be different. Sies Marjan and Coach’s models demonstrated beautifully how to take a pretty feminine hue and grime it up, rocking the runway with punchy, highoctane, murky peach lengths, paired with a couple of inches of dark roots.

@madelame

@mariana_zaragoza

@khloekardashian

@andrewfitzsimons

Living Coral/Dirty Peach

Dusty Copper

Celebrity colourist Rachel Bodt loves the faded pastel hair trend because it’s more of a wash of colour, as opposed to a saturated pastel. “It’s less of a commitment and looks just like a little blush on the hair,” she explains. Hairstylist Andrew Fitzsimons got Khloe Kardashian onto a pale-pink hue by using temporary hair colour. “I’ve been playing with spray-on colours lately and have been so impressed with how much these types of products have improved in recent years,” he comments.

Red is always stunning but Rachel Bodt says clients shy away from the hue because they think it comes off too fiery. “Dusty copper, on the other hand, still gives you that gorgeous red shade, but a little bit toned down.” Bodt describes the colour as looking as if it’s muted by dry shampoo - in a good way. “I love this colour because it’s warm, yet not over the top,” she says. We can’t get enough of ‘Riverdale’ actress Madelaine Petsch’s light copper hue, and Kate Bosworth’s dusky pale rouge tone.

@marcjacobsbeauty

Faded Pastel

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hair profile

The Beauty Of Balayage As an International Ambassdor for L’Oréal Professionnel, Peter Thomson has made his name as the ultimate Balayage expert. He talks to Headway about his love for this colour art, his inspirations and how social media has helped his brand soar. chelseahaircutters lorealpro

Balayage is making strong waves in the world of colour. It allows the use of bespoke hair colour, to be creative and showcase beautiful shadow and light done correctly. It’s such a beautiful technique. It’s all about teaching colourists how to paint a canvas to get a stunning, natural look.

As a L’Oréal Professionnel Ambassador, what do you love about working with their colour? L’Oréal Professionnel delivers a wide range of the most beautiful colour palettes with conditioning shine that will complement any skin tone. Also, the multi-dimensional tones in one tube is a winner for me.

What’s trending currently in terms of Balayage? Balayage is trending towards creating strong face-framing, using a beautiful blend from the root to the outer end of the scale. It’s all about natural tones where less is more. 46 headway.net.nz

What’s inspiring you in your work right now? Firstly, I would say Instagram inspires me. You’re able to see what other salons are up to and on a global scale, that’s instantly so inspiring. I also love the front cover of magazines.

What would be your top tips when it comes to Balayage? Less is more. Don’t overdo it so it ends up looking like a blanket colour. Remember, you need to see shadow and light.

You have a huge social media following on Instagram. How do you think this has helped your brand/salon? My followers on Instagram have given me so much and I’m very grateful. It’s built a strong brand for my salon, which is attracting people from everywhere. Now I travel the globe and am so inspired by events and people - it really is my dream job and I love it. It does come with the price of hard work and dedication. Being dedicated is key. It’s not just about the pretty photo. A lot of time and effort is required and you have to work hard and juggle.

“Less is more. Remember, you need to see both shadow and light” What would be your best advice for salons looking to gain new followers online? Look at who your target audience is and what kind of brand is your salon representing. Only post what you represent and being consistent is crucial.

What does success mean to you? Many different things. Staying passionate, loving what you do, inspiring others, being rewarded for hard work, and loving life with a positive outlook.

Peter Thomson will be hosting two Balayage classes in Auckland at the L’Oréal Academy in October. Sunday 20th October will be a Look and Learn, while Monday 21st October is the Hands On Experience. Contact your Area Manager to reserve your spot now or call 0800 657 666 Option 3

PHOTOGRAPHY: L’Oréal Professionnel

You’re known as an expert in Balayage and are visiting NZ next month with L’Oréal Professionnel. What can hairdressers expect to learn from you?

NEW!

LIGHT WEIGHT

NEW ASPIRATION

Reduced weight on all components.

Designed to optimise drying thanks to a greater airflow.

MICROSWITCH Instant cold shot button

MANAGEABLE Ergonomic handle for balance & comfort.

More Powerful. More Silent. The technological restyling of Parlux 3200 PLUS® combines the power associated with a new one suction concept, ensuring quieter and fast drying. Redesigned for an even more professional experience. Also features: • LONG LIFE: 2.00 hours • AIR FLOW: 71 m3/h • POWERFUL: 1900 Watts

/datelineimports

/datelineimportsnz

SETTINGS

4 Temperature / 2 Speeds

THE SPRING EDIT New releases and old favourites combine to form the Headway teamâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite products for the new season

For a natural look and casual finish, La Biosthetique Botanique Intense Styling Cream offers rich conditioning and shaping with a light to medium hold. Pure natural waxes and white clay provide a silky, matte shimmer.

To maintain texture, hold and give that sexy, mussed-up look, try KEVIN.MUPRHY TOUCHABLE, a weightless finishing spray. This non-sticky dry spray wax conditions and adds a satiny sheen, with Hibiscus Flower extract, Milk Thistle, Sea Lavender and Carrot Seed oil. 48 headway.net.nz

For luxe indulgence, try Davines OI Hair Butter for nourishing, intense shine and softness. Rich and buttery, the powerhouse ingredient is Roucou oil, which restructures, protects from UV and has potent antiageing effects.

Stronger, healthier, hydrated, tangle-free hair is just what the doctor ordered this spring which is why we love Lust Xtra Care Leave In Treatment. This bottle of goodness is infused with yummy natural ingredients, including Jojoba, Sunflower Seed oils and Ginkgo Biloba leaf.

Introducing the first Icea Vegan and Love Nature certified professional hair styling line, Kemon AND. The 6-product range offers multiple styling possibilities with protective and hydrating formulas for effective results and natural, residue-free effects.

HAIR focus

Long locks will lap up the expertise of the Framar Detangle Brush which effortlessly detangles the most stubborn of knots. It works on wet or dry hair, for all hair types and is extension and wig-friendly.

PHOTOGRAPHY: La Biosthetique & Supplied

With a Ferrari-designed hightorque engine, the BaBylissPRO Volare X2 Clipper offers a superior cutting system: 4 cutting positions with a titaniumcoated precision blade and an ergonomic design to fit any grip for ease of use.

American Crew Fiber is the ultimate cult men’s product. The brand now introduces American Crew Fiber Grooming Foam. This lightweight, fibrous foam provides long-lasting, manageable volume with medium hold and natural shine.

We’re loving some big hair this season so style up with Fudge FullHed Xpander Jelly. Perfect for vulnerable hair textures, this pot of volume bulks up individual strands whilst maintaining a natural feel.

De Lorenzo ET Equilibrium is a deep repair treatment masque packed with organic rosehip and oat peptides to restore, repair and revive hair for healthy, lustrous shine.

With an invisible texture, Davines The Restless Circle mask can be applied anywhere, anytime, adding body to stressed hair while preventing breakage. Chia seed extract works to increase density and elasticity of the hair. headway.net.nz 49

For 48 hours of weightless hydration paired with instant illuminating frizz-free shine, look to Fudge Luminizer Moisture Boost Shampoo. Formulated with a lightweight micellar oil complex, this is the perfect choice to banish fly-aways with a smooth gloss finish.

13 Care for hair this season with Davines ON PROTECTION. This hair booster concentrate protects from oxidative damage that causes hair bonds to weaken and break during technical services. The one-step process is quick and simple for extraordinary results.

The high-performance Keratin Complex range has unveiled fresh, modern packaging. Our pick for spring is Keratin Complex Vanilla Bean Deep Conditioner, a rich, vanilla-infused treatment that creates an indulgent aromatherapy experience while moisturising hair.

Renowned as the world’s best colour brush, the Framar Emperor Brush is a side-angled colour brush with integrated comb for backcombing and easy sectioning. With tapered edges for ultimate precision and fine lines, use vertically for precision or horizontally for larger applications. The brush also offers the perfect blend of soft and stiff bristles for optimal control.

For hair lacking moisture, Organic Colour Systems AquaBoost Treatment is an intense hydrating reconstructor to nourish and improve softness and shine. Organic aloe and black oats extract help improve the internal structure and surface of the hair.

Joico Defy Damage Protective Masque is intense damage prevention to replenish strength and moisture balance for soft, shiny, healthy-looking hair in minutes. Plus, you’ll retain 90% colour luminosity and 5 x more powerful hair.

HAIR focus

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re thrilled this has been released, as detanglers for long-hair lovers are hard to come by. ELEVEN Detangle My Hair is a lightweight leavein spray infused with pear extract to hydrate and tame hair.

A one-stop-shop for healthy blondes, Biolage Purple Shampoo works to control blonde tones in between salon visits, preventing underlying yellow pigments from coming to the hairâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s surface. Perfect for restoring natural tones and neutralising the brass.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Hermiz Daniel & Joico

Textured waves are always ontrend. Create them with ease thanks to Moroccanoil Beach Wave Mousse. This saltfree formula provides tousled texture for an effortlessly windswept look with flexible hold.

Introducing TIGI Copyright Care Retail & Treatment Back-Bar Range, which offers 28 products with personalised programs and technology built within the large collection to suit every hair need. The line-up repairs damaged hair to make it stronger, enhancing natural movement and form within the hair.

For bouncy hair brimming with body, the Joico JoiFull range has it covered. The transformative trio of JoiFull Shampoo, Conditioner and Styler create long-lasting, full, lush, manageable strands come to life, minus the crunch.

Blondes will love Fudge Clean Blonde Violet Xpander Foam, with its multi-tasking toning and styling formula. Delivering ultra-bright, megavolumised, manageable-tothe-max blonde in a single application, this lightweight whip absorbs instantly to banish brassy, yellow tones.

headway.net.nz 51

hair promotion

High

Aiming Career opportunities within the hairdressing industry are endless, especially when you join the Rodney Wayne group. CEO of Rodney Wayne, Julie Evans, shares what it means to be a part of this unique family and how your career can go from strength to strength

e know that recent and future generations will change careers up to seven times during their life. For me personally, I have been fortunate to enjoy and love the industry that is hairdressing and people. Having worked the last fifteen years with the Rodney Wayne group, I have seen so many successions and careers evolve and develop with this incredibly iconic brand. Beneath the Rodney Wayne umbrella sits the other brands, Shampoo ‘n’ Things, Style Xpress and Rodney Wayne Barbers. If you love people and derive pleasure from helping people reach their true potential as a leader, then our brand would help you to achieve this. If you are a stylist who cherishes the idea of making people look and feel fabulous, you would be given the tools, expertise and personal development to help you execute this with every client you have the privilege to service. There are so many programmes you can become part of as a member of the Rodney Wayne family: from a Colour Ambassador, through to a Kérastase

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Ambassador, or a welcome addition to the Redken Rodney Wayne Tribe. The opportunities are limitless. You can enjoy the flexibility of hours and industry-leading pay packages and incentives. If you are only just entering a career in hairdressing, then look no further. We engage and develop apprentices and technicians from high school, whilst nurturing training to completion of qualification. Rodney Wayne recently awarded one of our salon business partners, Annmarie Wilkinson, who, during her tenure at Rodney Wayne, has trained and developed more than 50 apprentices to become qualified stylists. The great thing is, you don’t have to be a hairstylist to have a career at Rodney Wayne. There are multiple positions available, such as client liaison at the front of our salons, retail expert, or retail manager at our other brand, Shampoo ‘n’ Things. Rodney Wayne is also proud to announce we have recently promoted Newton Cook from floor manager and

Artistic Team member to the Creative and Education Director for New Zealand. Newton will work with our support team and salons to ensure the Rodney Wayne systems and education are constantly evolving and meeting the needs of teams and clients alike. For those in the industry who are looking to eventually own a hairdressing salon, then this too is something we can offer at Rodney Wayne. Many of our salon owners have progressed through the roles in-salon to eventually owning and operating their own salon. And because Rodney Wayne is a franchise, this dream of owning the salon can be realised. Joining the Rodney Wayne team means all of this and so much more: from conferences, through to incredible team and salon awards nights to reward and award our people.

We are a warm and welcoming group. If you would like to know more, reach out to us or go and surf the Rodney Wayne website or Instagram. rodneywayne.co.nz @rodneywayneofficial

JOIN THE TEAM

We’re hiring! If you’re a stylist, colour technician, team leader, manager or retail salesperson and love helping people look and feel fabulous this is your opportunity. Enjoy industry leading pay packages, flexible hours, expert support and training. Plus work with world-leading products from L’Oréal Professsionnel, Kérastase, ghd and Dyson. You can also take advantage of our excellent team discount offers. Please send your CV and cover letter to jadeu@rodneywayne.com or call Jade on 09 358 4644.

HAIR nz awards

Lust Photographic Competition 2019 Professional Hair Brands celebrates the work of these talented hairdressers

he team at Professional Hair Brands were thrilled with the calibre of entries for the 2019 Lust Hair Photographic Competition. Each year, the entries continue to raise the bar and 2019 was no exception. The judging panel, which included hairdressers Mana Dave and Peter Dutton, renowned Australian educator, Paula Hibbard, along with Headway Magazine editor, Charmaine Guest, agreed that this year made for the toughest decision yet, as there were so many exceptional entries; a fantastic selection of talented people clearly demonstrating their love for the craft. Lust permanent or semipermanent colour was used for the colour entries, while the Lust Styling Range was required for the black and white imagery.

JUDGE’S COMMENTS:

COLOUR CATEGORY:

Colour placement and choice was very impressive. The stories were told with on-trend colour and showcased where colour is making an impact in our industry. Hairdressers were definitely pushing the boundaries with their colour selection and placement, and the overall quality of entries was fabulous.

MONOCHROME CATEGORY: Everyone loved this new category and the new ideas it brought to the Lust Photographic Competition. Some brilliant concepts were showcased,

COLOUR WINNERS

1 1ST ANDREW COBELDICK Buoy Salon & Spa, Wellington

with images capturing technical skill, excellent silhouettes, concepts and shape, along with forward-thinking elements. Stunning images and a pleasure to judge.

OVERALL TIPS: Models are key, so ensure you have the right model for your concept. Finish is crucial, more so when entering a black and white category. Anything that looks unfinished, or unwanted texture becomes obvious in black and white. For a smooth, polished look, make sure you create exactly that so it can be captured perfectly in the end result.

2ND ANTHONY BAYER Anthony Bayer Hair, Auckland

MONOCHROME WINNERS

1ST MICHAEL BEEL Buoy Salon & Spa, Wellington

PEOPLEâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S CHOICE WINNER ANTHONY BAYER Anthony Bayer Hair, Auckland

2ND ANDREW COBELDICK Buoy Salon & Spa, Wellington

ust recently launched a haircare range focused very much on luxury within nature. Lust Colour also places value on more natural ingredients. The ammonia and peroxidefree range of 23 shades are enriched with Argan oil, designed to add shine and protection, along with repairing and strengthening hair. As you can see from the imagery here, Lust Colour also produces brilliant colour tones: from bold and intense, through to bright fluros and shimmering pastels.

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Gothic Noir By THE AUSTRALIAN INTERCOIFFURE ARTISTIC TEAM

HAIR international

HAIR: Australian Intercoiffure Artistic Team ARTISTIC DIREC TOR: Robert Bava PHOTOGR APH Y: Johnny Georgiou M AKE UP: Stacy Condous FASH ION ST Y LING: Karen Bava

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Hair international

I NS PI R ATIO N The woman behind the Gothic Noir theme is strong in energy, mysterious and enticing with the drama of black magic. The Australian Intercoiffure Artistic Team imagined their muse as a practitioner of the dark arts; very unique from other people, with an appearance as individual as she is, radiating her raw strength.

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HAIR international

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headway promotion

Introducing the ghd royal dynasty collection Get your hands on this season’s most desired luxury gift sets from ghd, dusted in majestic rose gold.

ou can keep your red, green, silver and blue. This year, Christmas is ALL about glistening rose gold at ghd. So, whether you’re on the hunt for the ultimate multi-purpose gift set, a stunning gift for a loved one or want to treat yourself like a Queen, look no further than the new ghd collection. Presented in luxury deep burgundy vanity cases, the perfect beauty accessory.

DELUXE GIFT SET

PLATINUM+STYLER

platinum+ smart styler and professional ghd air® hairdryer with luxury vanity case

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Rule the gift of giving this year with this award-winning hair royalty duo. Featuring the ghd platinum+ smart styler and professional performance ghd air® hairdryer, which have been dusted in a majestic rose gold hue for the festive season.

From curls to straight, take command and be the ruler of any style you create throughout the party season, with the help of the ghd platinum+ styler. Featuring ultra-zone with predictive technology that senses your personal hair needs and adapts the delivery of power accordingly. The ghd platinum+ styler is coated in glistening rose gold and will be sure to be the crown jewel under your tree.

GOLD STYLER

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professional iconic styler with luxury vanity case

ghd air®hairdryer

The iconic ghd gold® styler features dual-zone technology for premium performance, a modernised design for smooth, snag-free styling, and delivers unparalleled results - perfect for the girl who seeks hair perfection.

Be blown away with the salonquality and precision of the ghd air® hairdryer , accented in a stunning rose gold hue. With its professional-strength motor and advanced ionic technology, ghd air® delivers exceptionally fast drying and styling, while also helping to reduce frizz, leaving hair soft and silky

ENSURE YOUR CROWN IS GHD THIS CHRISTMAS New ghd Royal Dynasty collection available from October 2019 in the finest salons and ghdhair.com/nz #GHDROYALDYNASTY

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Tie Me Up, Tie Me Down

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@blakelively

@chanelofficial

@tillythomaslux

MAIN IMAGE Damien Rinaldo

n terms of hair, one thing will never change: many women are always going to love long hair. While tousled, beach-waves and a chic blowwave will remain firm favourites, hair trends for long-hair lovers are continuing to have an affair with some of the old classics. The unexpected comeback of oversized scrunchies reminds us that moving forward sometimes requires looking back. We’re obsessing over hair accessories for longer lengths this season: jewels, florals, pearls, bows, you name it. For many of us, barrettes and hair brooches are not part of our everyday look, but don’t save these bejewelled accessories for fancy events. Their whole point is to add that touch of magic to everyday life. Or slip on a super-memorable headband. Our favourites are luxe pearl-style creations or subtle, black satin, with or

without bow. Also trending is the simple bobby pin. Soft waves and a side part kept neat with the help of a single bobby pin is girlish and feminine. The high-fashion ponytail is still a hit but has transitioned into half-uphalf-down 'dos, which can be superedgy or super-chic. We’ve spotted some gorgeous versions on everyone from Ariana Grande through to Blake Lively, Kim Kardashian and Ashley Graham. This elevated look involves giving some structure to the top of the head in the form of a ponytail, bun, or even a strategic part to give a little more volume. These looks are perfect as they offer a high-fashion but casual vibe and there’s tons of different style options, so you’ll never get bored. One of our favourite looks is the messy bun, which took over the Grand Palais during Chanel's PFW show. The models' hairdos were an ode to French hair effortlessly chic and nonchalantly cool. The top knot is perfect for those with long locks as it needs quite a bit of length to look that voluminous. You don't have to get the chop to have some fringe fun - just go faux. Temporary fringes are having a big moment in Hollywood, with tricksters Bella Hadid, Rosie HuntingtonWhiteley and Emily Ratajkowski trying out shorter layers with their long manes this year. For wannabe Rapunzels, there are many variations of braids that can work with any look you’re going for. Go chic and twist them, scruff it up to make it look super-beachy. Pigtail plaits offer up a sweet, innocent vibe, or go for a superneat side braid – Wednesday Adams meets runway Queen. Go braid-crazy with a three-way, plaited down-do, or pull a few strands loose from your simple low plait and tie with a ribbon to master this chic Parisian look.

@arianagrande

Tumbling lengths can be the most versatile of all hairstyles. We look at what’s trending in the world of long hair

THE PALETTE

Current Salon & Color Bar By Nese In Virginia, USA, resides a modern space housing award-winning stylists. Sharleen Singh finds out more about this artistic dream currentsalon

ith great service at the forefront of everything they do, Current Salon & Color Bar is in a league of its own. Based in Loudoun County, this ever-evolving salon has mastered the art of creating a memorable experience for clients. Current Salon is more than just a salon, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a culture - an environment of caring and inspired relationships. This sentiment is cultivated in each and every interaction.

The begining Since they first opened their doors in 2012, Current Salon has consistently received top honours and recognition as one of the best hair salons in the state. With the collaboration of coowner and Managing Director, Ryan Mallard, and co-owner and lead stylist, Nese Altas, Current has recently 64 headway.net.nz

Hair focus

factors, including: years of experience, continuing education, skills, and creative artistry. Because every member of the Current team is committed to ongoing education and learning the latest styles and industry trends, you can expect a professional experience at every level. With that said, every client and hairstyle is unique, allowing clients to choose a stylist based on their hair, specific desires, schedule, and budget.

Treatment menu expanded to One Loudoun, where their experienced, award-winning stylists offer contemporary and classic cuts, styling, and colour services, as well as highly sought-after cosmetic treatments. In addition to Nese’s creative mastery, Ryan brings his proven business and leadership skills to Current Salon, which has helped cultivate and grow both an incredible team as well as salon products and services.

Award-winning Current Salon & Color Bar is known as much for its energy and team culture as it is for creating gorgeous looks, which has led to multiple accolades in every area. “We’ve always said that Current is more than a salon. We aim to be an experience,” explains Nese.

Dream design With 14’9” ceilings and suspended styling mirrors, the salon is open and energetic, allowing stylists to work collaboratively as a team and with their clients. One of the focal points is the Colour Bar, which is centrally located to keep clients feeling like they’re still a part of the action while they relax with a beverage or work from their phone or laptop. The space also features multiple

treatment rooms for waxing, threading and cosmetic services, as well as a private room for bridal parties and other groups.

From women’s and men’s haircuts to colour, styling, waxing, threading, bridal and lash services, and everything in between, Current Salon offers an extensive treatment menu. Featuring techniques that include Bayalage, Ombre, Sombre, melting and highlights, they also offer a hair service menu. This includes Hair Botox, which reverses damage to the hair cortex, and Cezanne Keratin Treatments. Here is one salon where you can be ensured your hair needs are well met.

Team focus

Proffesional products

Chosen for their considerable skills, creative delivery, and artistic talent, each stylist embraces the Current Salon culture of fun, energetic and compassionate service to clients. “When you invest in the right people, who have a passion not only for their craft but for their clients, everything else falls into place,” says Ryan. “Extreme discipline is the mark of every one of our stylists. It means staying true to our craft and understanding and respecting our clients’ needs. It comes down to trust, and our clients trust in us to create the best in style and service” explains Nese. Their talent tier is based on several

Professional salon results take professional products, which has greatly influenced the products that Current Salon have selected and offer. With colour lines that include KEVIN. MURPHY, Affinage and Framesi, their retail product line also includes J Beverly Hills and Eufora. For makeup services, M.A.C is the range of choice, completing their comprehensive professional and retail offering.

Current salon in 10 words Modern, energising, inspired, passionate, spacious, striking, comfortable, welcoming, warm, cutting-edge. currentbynese.com headway.net.nz 65

WELLNESS IN THE SALON Employee wellness, or lack of wellness, can have a major impact on your salonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culture. Learn why wellness is important and how to implement it.

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ellness is about encouraging people to look after themselves by taking proactive steps to manage their own general wellbeing. Wellness is not limited to physical health. It is said there are six dimensions of wellness:

PHOTOGRAPHY: Sally Brooks & Shutterstock

1. Physical wellness: Being physically healthy. 2. Emotional wellness: Strong emotional wellbeing. 3. Social wellness: Meaningful social connections. 4. Intellectual wellness: Curiosity and interest in learning new things. 5. Occupational wellness: Being engaged with and interested in your job. 6. Spiritual wellness: A general sense of purpose. Helping develop these dimensions creates a better work environment, making staff more relaxed and focused on what they need to do. This has a flowon effect to team-building and morale. A team who are not too stressed, sick, or tired to communicate is a team that can focus its energy on finding great solutions for your clients. There’s also a direct benefit for your bottom line. Last year, Southern Cross Health Society and Business New Zealand released a report on their ‘Wellness in the Workplace’ survey. They found staff take an average of 5 days sick leave per year, costing between $600 and $1,000 per year, per employee. A happier, more productive salon can also reduce this number and

save money. Promoting yourself as a salon that focuses on staff wellness can be positive for marketing. After all, you are selling wellness to your clients, whether through hairdressing, makeup services, spa treatments or massages. If you show you practice wellness, as well as sell it to your clients, you’ll build credibility with potential clients – and hopefully sales as well!

them to participate in activities.

Start with senior staff Salons tend to focus on a culture of professionalism, technical mastery and customer service, but few salons create a wellness culture. Your goal should be to add a culture of wellness on top of your existing culture. You need the whole team to buy into the overall goals of the programme. Ensure you have senior staff on-board and discuss what you’re trying to achieve.

Tailor your wellness Tailor wellness activities to your team’s work and dynamics. For example, lots of stylist work requires people to stand in one place for long periods of time. Make this easier on the body by improving core strength, such as through yoga. You can make big improvements with short, light yoga, a few times a week. Focusing your activity on things that can help your team with their jobs makes wellness relevant to their work.

Integrate your wellness

For your staff, not to your staff Your wellness programme needs to be optional for employees. This helps them feel like activities are for them, rather than something you do to them. Explain what you’re trying to achieve with any initiatives and ensure you are receptive to questions and comments from staff. Wellness is helping people take control of their own wellbeing, rather than forcing

In addition to starting small, look for ways you can integrate wellness initiatives into day-to-day practice, which offers staff the benefits of wellness without the time costs. This makes it easier for staff, and paves the way for other activities that may ask them to change their routines.

Set aside the time Put aside the time you need to do any wellness activity but don’t expect staff to see the same number of clients each day. They’ll end up having to work late or rush clients. Both of which will likely increase stress levels, and you’ll end up with staff members with lower wellness levels than when you started.

Make a start Time to start rolling it out! Check out various wellness initiatives online. Get inspired and start designing your own wellness programme. Help your salon thrive by making your team feel fit, healthy and relaxed. By Timely Salon Software www.gettimely.com (04) 488 7012 headway.net.nz 67

IG HAIR by Zoe Clark, L’Oréal Professionnel Artist

Campbell Luke - ‘The past, present, and future of Wahine Māori’

HAIR by Zoe Clark, L’Oréal Professionnel Artist

Maggie Marilyn - ‘No Makeup Makeup’ by Abbey Black for MECCA

HAIR by Seb Hunt and Dylan James Richards for Lust Hair Care

Stolen Girlfriends Club - ‘Natural Born Killers’

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G what ’s trending We consider spring to be the most powerful of the seasons, with change being the main focus of the months ahead. What can be stronger than the ability to effect change, make a change and embrace it? We salute NZFW in this issue’s IG trends and some of the biggest names in the hair and fashion industry. Enjoy.

@paulhanlonhair

@kimblehaircare

@sallyhershberger

@kimblehaircare

@sallyhershberger

@guidopalau

We’ve rounded up an edit of some of the current powerhouses of iconic looks that have influenced the way we style today.

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HAIR trends

Influencer:

Who better to feature as our influencer in the ‘power’ September issue than the queen of September issues herself - Ms Anna Wintour. “The most powerful woman in media and entertainment” – Forbes

@thevalentinagroupagency

@wintourworld

NYFW Spring 2020 “I want to hear about why fashion is worth it.” @theannawintour

The first Monday in May: The Met Gala is the highlight of the fashion year

Zambesi Retrospective The retrospective show at NZFW was powerful, strong and our favourite. The quintessential Zambesi vibe has been mastered over four decades and they told their relevant story in a library of course.

Organic looking fishtails and conventional plaits were placed sporadically around the head.

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The show had a mix of models and “Zamfam” – structured, effortless and full of love.

@therealpeterlindbergh

@bazaaraustralia

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and Supplied

Peter Lindbergh – It’s a wrap “If photographers are responsible for creating or reflecting an image of women in society, then I must say, there is only one way for the future, and this is to define women as strong and independent. This should be the responsibility of photographers today: to free women, and finally everyone, from the terror of youth and perfection.” Peter Lindbergh @therealpeterlindbergh

Are you following us on Instagram? Gain the latest spring hair, beauty and fashion trends by following @headwaymagazine headway.net.nz 71

hair focus

THE LONG & THE SHORT OF IT La Biosthetique’s Parisian blogger, Mademoiselle Lili, ponders the connection between hair and religion labiosthetiqueaus

witch punished him with blindness. Or the Loreley, who sings as she combs her hair and lures the boatsmen on the Rhine to their deaths. In all cultures, long hair has been a symbol for female sexuality, of both its glorification and suppression. It wasn’t until the 1920s that women began wearing short hair of their own accord and not as a sign of punishment. It was an expression of their individuality and identity; a celebration of their beauty. Many societal and personal transformations began in the hairdressing chair. I think that’s where I will symbolically usher in the next stage of life: once I am ready to no longer colour my hair, but let it go grey. Till then I’ll say, same as always. Hair for women is a big topic and also a piece of their personality, their femininity. Now, where my job is all about beauty, I know that in all three religions there are indications for this, whether in the Bible, the Torah, the Talmud or the Koran. These rules did not exist in ancient civilisations, such as Egypt, Greece or Rome. And they don’t exist in other religions such as Buddhism or Hinduism. In Christianity, Judaism and Islam, however, female hair seems to constitute part of sexual symbolism, and it is imperative that it is hidden. Particularly in front of strange men as it could provoke impure thoughts. And in actual fact, women and their long, loose hair always have played an important role in myths and fairytales.

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PHOTOGRAPHY supplied

“In all cultures, long hair has been a symbol for female sexuality, of both its glorification and suppression.”

Founded in bio-chemistry, delivered in luxury. PROFESSIONAL COLOUR, SCALP CARE, HAIRCARE, SKINCARE AND MAKE UP. LABIOSTHETIQUE.CO.NZ | 0800 522 467

hair focus

THE LONG & THE SHORT OF IT La Biosthetique’s Parisian blogger, Mademoiselle Lili, ponders the connection between hair and religion labiosthetiqueaus

’ve become rather conservative about my hair. Same as always, I recently told my hairdresser, and suddenly felt very boring. For 10 years, I’ve had the same style: mid-length, same colour, a light blonde chocolate golden. The only change I allowed myself this whole time was a fringe. Have I found my style or have I just grown old and conservative? How I used to experiment with lengths, cuts and, above all, colours! Twelve years ago, I tried the most extreme form of hairstyle a woman can have: no hair. I had my extremely long hair shaved to just two mm. I got the idea from a documentary on a Buddhist Ashram in India. The studentsPut who came gavescalp up theirforward hair as theirfor your witch healthiest punished him with blindness. Or the Loreley, who sings yourthere best head of hair yet first sacrifice - a sign of a new beginning, cleansing, letting as she combs her hair and lures the boatsmen on the Rhine to go of their old life. And that’s exactly what I wanted too. Even their deaths. today, I can remember the almost religious feeling: a feeling In all cultures, long hair has been a symbol for female of lightness, as if I had freed myself of all my baggage in five sexuality, of both its glorification and suppression. It wasn’t calp scrubs Iare often thought scalpbegan exfoliation routine keep minutes. Actually, now believe this of triggeredisanparticularly important. external and until the 1920s that women wearing shorttohair of that an unnecessary extra step inforward in“Keeping the scalp incredibly is and not steady of hair products internalaschange that helped me move life. their ownclean accord as a blockage sign of punishment. It wasatan beauty We in manygoing to help the hair we have now, it’s expression bay. Conversely, when youand skipidentity; scalp Hair consumer is attributed greatroutines. significance of their individuality all apply masks and condition for exfoliation, products accumulate religions. It symbolises vitality,hair a closeness to going to help the hair grow thicker and a celebration of their beauty.will Many societal renewed strengtherotic, and shine and and make your hair appear dull.” God or feminine which is exfoliate supposed to fuller, and most importantly, it’s going and personal transformations began in the ourhidden. face to Orthodox reveal a glowing complexion For thinning hair, that’s scalp exfoliation be Islam forces women to to help that future hair grow thicker andhairdressing chair. I think where I will free ofa dead skin cells,Judaism but when it comes clears blockages from built-up sebum wear veil; Orthodox gives women fuller,” says David Adams, respected symbolically usher in the next stage of life: to addressing scalp health, it tends toand fly US Trichologist “A clean scalp is one of once I and dandruff inlonger the hair follicle, the option of wearing a scarf or wig, am ready to no colour my hair, under the Christianity radar. the most important things we can do to but letwhich ultimately makes the same hair as Orthodox makes nuns wear a it go grey. Till then I’ll say, As it turns out,Christendom, the skin on your scalp wimple. In early people about to always. is just like the onheads any other part of placed be baptised hadskin their shaved and Hair for women is a big topic and also a your haphazard, on thebody. altar,Doing a signa of dedication30-second to Jesus. The piece of their personality, their femininity. routine won’t cut it, and just like tell anythe story Hebrew Bible and Old Testament Now, where my job is all about beauty, I know solid skin care means of Samson, whoroutine, lost histhat divine power when that in all three religions there are indications healthy, exfoliating regularly. Contrary popular and appear fuller.or When Delilah secretly cut his hair offto while sleeping.ensure Alternately, thegrowing forhair.” this, whether in thegrow better Bible, the Torah, the Talmud the Taking care of your hair andThese takingrules did left blocked, the follicle belief,never scalp cut exfoliation isn’t solely itforsignifies their can shrink Sikhs their hair because connection Koran. not exist in ancient civilisations, such as carehair of your different those who experience dandruff. The number of hairs to God. In all great religions and their scriptures, playsscalp an are two Egypt, Greece or Rome.which reduces And they don’tthe exist in other religions things. “It’s really important toBuddhism keep the or Hinduism. scalp contains glands that growing from it. Next stop, thinner, important role.sebaceous such as In Christianity, Judaism and needs and of the hairhowever, separate,” produce sebum which can build up fibres of keratin Scientifically, nothing more than a scalp and the Islam, femalefiner hair. hair seems to constitute part of sexual Adams says. “If you’re symbolism, the type to use and cause feature irritation, inflammation and For a very flaky scalp, biological of mammals, particularly the hair on women’s and it is imperative thatdry it isorhidden. Particularly in a toninofmyths hair products and dry flare-ups when leftan to ominous their ownpower demise. using a scrub And heads, is ascribed of seduction and front of shampoo, strange men asAdams recommends it could provoke impure thoughts. that means using a clarifying shampoo Hence whyThere’s regularRapunzel, exfoliationwho to return once a week everyhair twoalways weeks.have fairytales. let the prince climb up her in actual fact, women and their long,orloose on the the jealous strands, plus adopting the rate of skin turnover thesubsequently, scalp However, if you suffer from Psoriasis, hair to her roomcell in the tower,on and played aanregular important role in myths and fairytales.

SCALP CARE IS THE NEW SKINCARE

74 72 headway.net.nz

“In all cultures, long hair has been a symbol for female sexuality, of both its glorification A clean scalp is oneand of the most important things we suppression.” can do to ensure healthy, full, growing hair

PHOTOGRAPHY: Shutterstock PHOTOGRAPHY supplied

HAIR focus

3 4

cuts, sores, infections, or eczema, scalp exfoliation might not be for you as it may cause further irritation. Cleanse the scalp gently rolling your fingertips through the scalp area and avoid any rubbing or scrubbing. Ensure clients know to be gentle with their scrubbing. “You wouldn’t rub your face vigorously, so it’s the same with the scalp,” Adams suggests. “Do nice, soft, gentle, circular movements. That encourages microcirculation or blood to come to the surface of the scalp. And your hair is fed by the bloodstream. So, if we can encourage blood to come to the surface, that’s going to encourage hair growth as well.” In terms of products, look for key ingredients like zinc and copper. Zinc in particular is a great ingredient for scalp cleansing, and why it’s present in so many dandruff products. “If for some

reason you have this over-acceleration of shedding skin cells, the zinc will help remove the skin cells and slow down the rapid turnover,” Adams explains. He also encourages you to look for ingredients like copper, magnesium, organic essential oils, and keratin. There are an excellent variety of professional scalp products on offer today. Not only exfoliators, but lotions, treatments, tonics and shampoos developed specifically to assist with individual scalp care issues. Think of scalp care this way: It’s like going to work with full makeup on, then going home at night and not removing your makeup. You go to bed, you wake up the next morning, and then you reapply your makeup. And do that for three more days. That’s right, cringe! So treat your scalp the way you treat your skin.

Founded in bio-chemistry, delivered in luxury. 8

1. R+CO Crown Scalp Scrub 2. Davines Detoxifying Scrub Shampoo 3. La Biosthetique Aromatic Complex for Dry Scalp 4. Redken Diamond Oil Glow Dry Gloss Scrub 5. Moroccanoil Oily Scalp Treatment

6. Paul Mitchell Scalp Care AntiThinning Tonic 7. ACTYVA p factor Scalp Hair Loss Prevention 8. Kérastase Revitalizing Exfoliating Care 9. De Lorenzo TRICHO Scalp Control Cleanser

PROFESSIONAL COLOUR, SCALP CARE, HAIRCARE, SKINCARE AND MAKE UP. 9

LABIOSTHETIQUE.CO.NZ | 0800 522 467

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TIME TO SHINE Introducing Rodney Wayneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s new Creative & Education Director, Newton Cook rodneywayneofficial hairbynewton

hair profile

Congratulations on your new role as Rodney Wayne Creative & Education Director? How did you feel when you were appointed? I felt amazed, scared, and to this day, can still not believe it. Overall, I’m feeling superhonoured and proud.

What does your role entail and what excites you most about being Creative Director? As well as working at Fashion Week, directing and assisting hair, and being behind the scenes on photoshoots, my role entails making sure that all 32 of our salons nationwide feel supported with education, ensuring we’re all consistent in our standards. What excites me most about being the Creative Director is helping in the growth and progression of the brand that I love.

Can you take us through your beginnings in hairdressing and how your career has progressed over the years? I started my career at the Cut Above Academy in Auckland City and completed my first year apprenticeship. Whilst I was studying, a close cousin of mine, Cinty, was working for Rodney Wayne and I found myself socialising with the hairdressers from Rodney Wayne Westcity, where I completed my 2nd year apprenticeship. This was one of the best decisions I had made for my career (earn while you learn). I worked hard as an apprentice and within a year and a half, progressed my way to becoming a junior stylist. Two years on, I stepped up to be the floor manager, ensuring all my staff were getting the education and training they needed to ensure every client walked out feeling fabulous. I later auditioned to be part of our elite Artistic Team, where I had the opportunity to learn from industry leader Richard Kavanagh and attend annual

about it?

boot camps, where we were coached as not only great hairdressers, but as top facilitators. This led to working on photoshoots, backstage at fashion shows, and many more awesome opportunities. One of these opportunities was being selected as a member of the ghd style squad for Australia and New Zealand, which leads to the here and now.

What is inspiring you in your work currently?

How has being part of the Rodney Wayne family allowed you to fulfil the dreams you had when you started out in the industry?

Being able to use accessories to enhance the beauty of the hair. A simple bobby pin, a beautiful brooch, or even a fun scrunchy can instantly change someone’s look.

The Rodney Wayne family helped me to fulfil my hairdressing dreams by offering training and education, not only insalon, but also with our colour partner L’Oréal Professionnel, and styling partner Redken, which I believe is one of the most important things. Upskilling and education is key.

How do you believe Rodney Wayne is unique in terms of the opportunities it provides for developing creative talent?

Hairdressing is all about expression. One of Rodney Wayne’s values is, ‘Everyone has the right to look and feel fabulous’. If every day you make someone feel 10 times better than when they arrive, it makes everything you’ve been working towards worth it.

Which cuts and colours are you all over for the spring/summer season? Effortless and natural hair. Organic hair texture and sun-kissed colour are looks that I’m all about.

What are you most excited about for the future? The upcoming projects and growth you’ll see from our brand. Watch this space!

Rodney Wayne is unique because we are always upskilling and learning, which is crucial for any career if you want progression and growth. We have an Artistic Team to offer our brand exclusive training in fundamental techniques to bring us back to basics, but also offers advanced classes so we are always on-trend with what is happening in the fashion industry.

NEWTON’S FAVOURITES

Who has been a source of inspiration for you over the years?

Lothbrook in Vikings)

A source of inspiration for me has always been my parents. Although they are not hairdressers, they have taught me to have a strong work ethic and to always try your best.

Why would you recommend hairdressing as a career choice to someone who knew very little

Netflix: Anything superhero Film: The Lion King (original) Hair Icon: Richard Kavanagh Book: Wonder by R.J Palacio Actor: Travis Fimmel (Ragnar Food: Mandarins Hair Tool: ghd Platinum Plus Hair Product: Kérastase Elixir Ultime

Designer: Not For You (Jerome Taylor)

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By THE ROYALS HAIR ARTISTIC TEAM

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HAIR: Mary Alamine, Travis Bandiera, Elie Kashi, Emma Gรถttwal - Royals Hair Artistic Team, NSW, Australia PHOTOGRAPHY: David Mannah MAKEUP: Chereine Waddell STYLIST: Angela Liang

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I NS PI R ATIO N The ‘Illusion’ collection, by the award-winning Royals Hair Artistic Team, is a metaphor symbolising social media and the way it can distort reality. The reflections through these mirrors symbolise people living alternate lives, one on social media and the more incognito life off social media. Social media stories and posts are linear representations crafted to project an idealized version of a person’s interests and lifestyle or what they want the world to see. This influences behaviour in real life: what the person is creating results in being content for an audience rather than living in the moment and their ‘real’ authentic life. 82 headway.net.nz

headway focus

Luxury From Nature Professional Hair Brands introduce Lust Haircare to the professional market phbnz

he Professional Hair Brands’ team describe their newly-launched Lust Haircare range as ‘Luxury From Nature’. The range is divided into three groups: Colour Care, Xtra Care and Stylers, and the line-up ensures there is something for each and every hair type. Botanical-boasting, natural, coloursafe formulations are at the heart of Lust Haircare, which utilises only the finest, naturally-sourced ingredients, such as Lemongrass, Marula, Argan, Jojoba, Blackcurrant, Grape Seed oils, Rosemary, Aloe Vera and Gingko Biloba. Scientific formulations have been specifically developed to maximise colour hues and vibrancy, delivering incredible results. The Colour Care category includes Hydrate, Repair, Volume, Blonde, Curl and Deep Cleansing, while Xtra Care

certified is vitally important to the brand and is worn as a badge of honour. “We are extremely proud of collaborating with partners who share our ethical and

PHOTOGRAPHY: Supplied

“We believe nature is the best model of sustainability and we should all take inspiration from it.” provides everything from Thermal Protection, Dry Shampoo, Hair Beauty Cream, Luxury Oil and a Hydrating Mask. Styling offers eight products, including a Fibre Paste, Flexible Spray, Curling Cream, Pomade and everything in between. Like Mother Nature, Lust Haircare products contain no harsh chemicals or harmful substances (think parabens, sulphates, SLS, Propylene Glycol, Cocamide DEA or TEA…the list goes on), and have been ethically tested. Being 100% cruelty-free, vegan and PETA-

sustainable values,” says Professional Hair Brands Managing Director, Lio Paisnel. “Lust has been made using world-class laboratories, and everyone we work with meets our standards for clean technology and fair treatment of workers.” The brand is also highly sustainable, sharing a passion for caring for our planet. “Lust has a strong eco-friendly focus in everything we do,” says Paisnel. “We believe that nature is the best model of sustainability and we should all take inspiration from it. These values

are represented in our products, which honour nature and our manner of delivering them to you. We use HDPE plastic in our packaging, which is of course, 100% recyclable.” For us, one of the best things about Lust Haircare is the fact it’s 100% NZ owned and operated. One to watch and one to try. headway.net.nz 83

HAIR focus

CATWALK CUE Redken Artist and award-winning hairdresser, Mana Dave, talks about his favourite looks from the runway and how to incorporate these in-salon for your clients

help our clients to figure out what makes them unique and what special attributes, in terms of face shape and hair type, we want to enhance and showcase that allows them to shine. Individuality and uniqueness are the trend that we want them to buy into.

Hair Colour Is Life I’m always looking to see how this shows up on the runways and I’m totally into the fact that hair colour is now something that forms part of the most iconic hair looks we see. Josh Wood is my runway hair colour guru. His pastel hair colour makeovers on 37 models for Marc Jacobs is the stuff of legends. The fact that he showcased the pastel hues on a diverse range of models is the

Be You – It’s Cool Currently, there’s a really strong move for inclusivity and diversity in fashion. It’s long overdue and I’m totally loving it. You could definitely see this movement being embraced from the hair directors behind some of my favourite looks. We’re seeing a lot more natural textures coming through and even when there was a strong, specific hair story, you’d find a few surprise girls in the mix where their natural texture was being utilised. You can feel there’s a strong movement to embrace individuality instead of complete conformity. Back in the real world of salon life, this is definitely a thread that needs to filter through into our consultations. Now more than ever, it’s important that we 84 headway.net.nz

perfect avenue to tap into this trend with your clients. Clients like to see people who look like them with the trend. I get it, they’re all supermodels! But your clients like to see someone with a similar skin tone and hair texture rocking the trend, because it gives them a feeling for how it might look on them. Pastels have been with us for a few seasons now. I feel the current version is more of a vintage or antique pastel. Imagine a pastel watercolour that’s had some dry shampoo sprayed over it. It looks a bit dustier and more lived-in. As hairdressers, we all understand how great these shades are for our colour business - they are high-maintenance and a great option for our blonde clients who want to stay light but have some fun “for a good time, not a long time”. I prefer an acidic, demipermanent version of this for my clients, so the Aqua Blue, Silver Green, Pastel Pink and Pastel Peach from Redken’s Shades EQ Gloss are my go-to options. Shine and condition injected into a pretty pastel. If you’re thinking about making pastel colours a part of your salon business or your hairstylist brand, you can take a leaf from our industry colleagues in the spa industry who sell packages. After the initial pastel transformation or maybe even part of it, bundle a maintenance package of three glaze/toner refreshes, coupled with your preferred bond multiplier and a sexy blowout. Make the maintenance seem easy and sexy for them and they’ll want it.

JOICO INTERNATIONAL GUEST ARTIST, CHERRY PETENBRINK, SHARES HER FAVOURITE SHADES FOR THE SEASON Which colours are most in-demand right now? Some of the biggest colour looks trending now with the celebrity/ catwalk crew is contouring the blondest blondes or rich brunettes, ranging from honey, caramels and mochas, with bright lights. Balayage and Babylights combine to create a natural lowmaintenance look. Add a few Money Pieces around the face and you’ll get these super-bright pieces that contour eyes, cheeks and lips. I section the hair and use two different glosses or toners: a brighter, lighter one around hairline and top, and a slightly deeper formula on the back. I use this technique all day every day. It can also be an upsell or add-on service when a full head effect isn’t needed yet. @maneaddicts

@joicoaustralianz @_yanyanchan

@maneaddicts

@_edwardsandco

In the consultations I have with my clients, I’m always talking about wanting them to look effortless and sexy or effortless and confident. So trend-wise, I’m always gravitating towards looks that embrace that philosophy. Guido Palau’s timeless look for Victoria Beckham is the epitome of this. It’s clean, fresh, modern and channelling the wearable wet concept. You’ll need to tweak the height, width and placement of length to suit your client’s face shape. But it’s a super-sexy option if they’re going out for the night with a beautiful face and wanting to unleash their inner supermodel. Work through your preferred mousse or gel and brush or comb into place. Clip your ridges in place if you need more height, and diffuse dry. manadave blaze_hair redken

@_edwardsandco

Effortlessly Chic

@_edwardsandco

What’s the easiest way to create these looks using Joico colour? Joico has launched the “Next Generation Bond Building” line of pro and home maintenance products that sets up every chemical service to be a bonding, repairing and rebuilding experience. Spray Defy Damage Pro Series 1 Bond Protecting Colour Optimizer throughout the hair and brush to distribute. New Blonde Life Crème Lightener is loaded with moisturisers and exotic oils to give safe and effective 9+ levels of lift: the bond building arginine ensures 77% less breakage. This lightener is perfect for Balayage, free-hand painting, Babylights and contouring Money Pieces at the front. Blonde Life Quick toners are perfect for uber-blondes, and Lumishine Demi-Liquids have a full range of shades perfect for multiple tones and levels. joicoaustralianz hairbycherryp

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THE ROYAL TREATMENT How to keep stress levels low and pamper yourself during the busiest time of the year The Christmas period is known as one of the busiest times of the year for everyone, but especially for hair and beauty salons. It’s a fact that stress results in as much as $300 billion in lost productivity. It’s also a fact that 60 to 70% of workplace accidents result from stress. At Headway, we believe the industry needs to change how we talk about self-care, especially prior to Christmas. Getting burnt out means you’re not doing, you’re not creating and you’re not envisioning. It’s not enough to physically retreat; it’s important to diversify and have other interests outside of hair as well. So, how do you combat the busy period and indulge in yourself, while you’re busy indulging others?

THINK ABOUT... • Planning a break early and make sure you follow through. • Taking time to slow down - reduce your schedule as much as possible. • Changing your mindset. Instead of thinking of the time as stressful, think about what you’re going to achieve. • Exercising regularly and eating well. They should never be underestimated. • Getting YOUR hair done. • Learning something you’ve always been interested in or wanted to practice. • Making time for a massage or some reflexology – your feet really take a beating at this time of year.

HEADWAY’S TOP TIPS • Visualise: A short visualisation is an easy way to centre yourself. Picture a future vacation, your favourite beach, or even accomplishing a future goal you’ve always had. • Pamper Your Body: Even if you only have an hour or two to spare, luxuriate at a local spa to rest, relax, and rejuvenate. • Indulge Your Senses: Try some at-home aromatherapy. Scents that can help you relax include Lavender, Jasmine, Cedarwood and Bergamot. • Treat Yourself: Indulge in a treat you wouldn’t normally buy. This doesn’t have to be food: it could be tickets to a concert that you’ve been wanting to see, or an item of clothing you’ve been lusting after. • Rock On: Any music you love will flood your brain with feel-good neurochemicals like dopamine. Music can soothe everyday anxiety (crank it up on the drive home!) and research shows it’s particularly beneficial for those in the midst of a stressful working period.

• Watch A Viral Video: A good laugh is the best relaxation technique. Laughter enhances your intake of oxygen-rich air, stimulates your heart, lungs and muscles, and increases the endorphins released by your brain. • Pamper Your Mind: Put on some comfy clothes and read. Pick up your latest book, favourite magazine, newspaper, or blog and enjoy the escapism. • Consider Your Goals: Thinking about things you are passionate about can get swept aside in the madness of the present. Set aside time to consider your life and what you hope to attain. Create a bucket list, or revisit a past bucket list and consider how your goals have changed. • Pamper Your Heart: No matter how busy you are, set aside time to make plans with the people you love. Plan a day of activities, or simply decide to go out for brunch or dinner for a catch-up. Surrounding yourself with people you love creates happiness and wellbeing.

IMAGE Shutterstock

airdressers and beauty therapists spend the entire pre-Christmas period making other people feel amazing. But what about you as a hairdresser or salon owner? What’s your stress “tell?” For some, a quickened heart rate or a slight feeling of queasiness is enough to let you know you’re anxious or overwhelmed. The good news is you have the power to reset almost instantly.

COLOUR SAFE

GLUTEN FREE

VEGAN

Zenagen Revolve

CRUELTY FREE

A smarter way to treat hair loss

is a 2-step, easy treatment with unique products for both men and women

enagen Revolve is a 2 step, easy-to-use hair loss treatment with unique products for both men and women. A professional thickening therapy shampoo and a professional accelerating hydration therapy conditioner. The naturally formulated topical shampoo offers an efficient hair loss solution for male and female pattern baldness, post pregnancy hair loss, chemotherapy hair loss, thyroid related issues and other common types of hair shedding and thinning. The Conditioner reduces scalp inflammation and shedding and has UVA & UVB protectors.

HOW IT WORKS Zenagen Revolve combats DHT, the hormone responsible for 95% of pattern baldness. Cleansing existing DHT from the hair and sebum, optimising the scalp environment for thicker growing hair. Blocking future DHT to prevent thinning hair loss at the source. Also, helping hair follicles to grow back thicker, fuller and healthier. No minoxidil, paraben or SLS. No alcohol, harsh irritants or drying chemicals.

HOW TO USE Use the 2-part system every other day. Apply treatment for 5 full minutes then rinse thoroughly. Apply conditioner and rinse when done. Individuals with signs of pattern baldness or visible hair loss/recession and women age 40+, EVEN IF no visible hair loss. Those who have tried hair loss products and have had poor results. ALL MEN. Zenagen Evolve is a two-step hair repair and acceleration system that encourages the growth of stronger, longer and healthier hair. It helps repair hair that has been damaged due to chemical treatments and heat styling. The treatment helps prevent breakage in dry, brittle hair.

week 1

week 16

week 1

week 12

Individual results will vary.

WHO SHOULD USE

0800 545 274 hello@beautyspot.co.nz

Exclusive NZ Distributor

THE FUSION OF BEAUTY + SCIENCE

hair focus

BLOWN AWAY Engineering the perfect blow dry is Dyson’s new Supersonic™ Hair Dryer professional edition dysonhair

the data to the microprocessor to control air flow temperature. “As a stylist who does lots of editorial work, hair health is most important to me,” says award-winning hairdresser and Dyson Ambassador, Michael Beel. “I love that the Dyson Supersonic™ hair dryer professional edition dries hair at a lower temperature to prevent heat damage, so you can keep hair at its optimum level. You’re also making the blow dry last longer, making your set last longer, and making the hair feel more luxurious.” Fast, yet balanced, Dyson’s Air Multiplier™ technology means the volume of air drawn into the motor is amplified by three, producing a highpressure, high-velocity, focused jet of air. This allows for controlled, precise drying and styling simultaneously. The hair dryer also has a newly developed filtration system to capture airborne pollutants, along with optimised professional attachments, designed in collaboration with renowned hair stylists

across the globe. Michael Beel comments that stylists will love all of the different attachments. “They’re magnetic and strong, locking onto the hair dryer, and if you accidentally knock it with a brush, it’s not going to come flying off,” he says. “The attachments have been engineered for different hair types. Stylists will love that they can diffuse-dry, they can softstyle, and do a more streamlined blow dry with it. The long cord is amazing, as it doesn’t get wrapped around a chair, or need to be yanked around.” Powered by the patented Dyson V9 digital motor, this is also Dyson’s smallest, lightest digital motor. It’s fast and small enough to be positioned in the handle rather than the head for balance. “I’ve been hairdressing since I was 14 years old so I can appreciate what a beautiful blow dryer the Dyson Supersonic™ professional edition is,” says renowned Australian hairdresser, Renya Xydis. “I love the directness, the power and the precision of the airflow, and for it all to be so light, it’s fantastic. It’s not loud and it delivers. I thought there’s no way it can live up to what people say it can but when I felt it and touched it, it was fabulous. It was like a Ferrari!”

PHOTOGRAPHY: Supplied

ew Zealand’s hairdressing industry was recently introduced to the Dyson Supersonic™ hair dryer professional edition. Providing hair stylists with a machine engineered specifically for the needs encountered within the professional environment, top hairdressers are already singing its praises. Using a fast but focused airflow for precise styling, the temperature of the airflow is constantly measured to prevent extreme heat damage and protect natural shine. This intelligent heat control works via a glass bead thermistor, measuring the temperature 20 times a second and transmitting

HAIR international

Iconic

By THOMAS HILLS headway.net.nz 89

Hair international

HAIR: Thomas Hills, Director @ TH1 Hair, Surrey, UK M AKE UP: Jo Sugar PHOTOGR APH Y: Richard Miles ST Y LING: Bernard Connolly

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I NS PI R ATIO N A bold execution of power and strength, Thomas Hills’ Iconic collection takes reference from different eras to create timeless looks with maximum appeal. “Iconic is a showcase inspired by hair through the eras: from Marcel waves of the 1920s, through to the modern mullet influenced by the 1980s, each comes together as a collection for a modern day take on timeless style,” says Hills.

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Colour Watch Sue Eathorne from Sophisticutz Hair Design in Nelson talks to us about the benefits of newly-launched Cramer Colour from Kemon kemonaus

When did you start using Cramer Colour and what do you love most about the range? We started using Cramer colour in April, and can proudly say we won’t be looking back. We’re really loving how soft and natural the colours are, but they still have a vibrancy about them.

What do you think makes Cramer unique from other hair colour brands?

PHOTOGRAPHY: Supplied

We are really enjoying the range of browns and naturals; these tones are very much sought-after by our clientele. The colours work well mixed together, giving you the flexibility to be creative and achieve very personal results for your clients.

What has the feedback been like from your clientele? Our client feedback has been really positive. The colours have all lived up to their expectations and are longlasting. They’re also really enjoying the selection.

Hair by Courtney Tait at Sophisticutz

What do your staff enjoy most about using this colour range? We love how the colours are all true-totone and the grey coverage is fantastic, with options for resistant grey. The vibrancy of the colours are beautiful without being too intense. There is something for everyone!

Which colourists and hairdressers do you personally find most inspiring? Joico Ambassador, Larisa Love, is our favourite Balayage and root smudge expert. Dominick Serna (@domdomhair) is another talented hairdresser. He specialises in textured and layered cuts.

Which colour looks are you enjoying creating for your clients currently? Do you have a favourite Cramer colour recipe? We’ve been creating a lot of root smudge looks and Balayage. The ‘lived-in’ look is popular with our clientele and with Cramer colours being on the softer side, we’re easily able to create beautiful blends. We’re a big fan of the Cramer high lifts, which create a warmer, creamy blonde on natural hair. Our favourite toner recipe is 9.24, 9 and 6vol which gives a beautiful, buttery beige blonde. For a more ashy result, 10.78 and 6vol is great.

Cramer Colour is available from Sabre Corporation

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HAIR focus

ON THE WORLD STAGE Cosmoprof Asia 2019 presents the ON HAIR project

ravel-lovers and salon owners in the hair and beauty industry should book their tickets now for Cosmoprof Asia, the leading B2B event for the cosmetic industry in the Asia-Pacific region. From November 13th-15th 2019, Cosmoprof Asia will be held at the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Center hosting companies and professionals specialising in perfumery and cosmetics, beauty salons and spas, hair, nails, accessories and naturals and organics. ON HAIR, a yearly highlight at Cosmoprof Asia dedicated to the hair sector, will feature live demonstrations and shows. The much-anticpated event kicks off with the Organisation Mondiale de la Coiffure (OMC), the largest professional hairstylist organisation in the world, boasting over 50 member countries and more than 2 million individual members worldwide. The OMC will be showcasing an off-the-charts hair show and an inspiring hair master workshop to the crowd this year. Cosmoprof Asia 2019 will welcome more than 3,000 international exhibitors and more than 87,000 visitors from the beauty and hair industry. The ‘not-to-be-missed’ hair demonstrations this year include...

The New Era of Fashion by OMC With an all-round performance focused on hair and makeup styling, OMC will take you on a journey to a new era of creativity currently influencing the fashion trends of the beauty industry and showcasing the new concept of “beauty”.

Barbering In Asia by AHMA

Barbering Demo by BaByliss Pro With the success of their show from 2018, BaByliss Pro makes a comeback for 2019 as a participant of ON HAIR once again. Catching the trend on barbering, BaByliss Pro will be demonstrating different ways to master barbering with incredible techniques never seen before. Get ready to be amazed by the masters! For more information, visit www.cosmoprof-asia.com

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PHOTOGRAPHY: Bill Tsiknaris

Asia Hair Masters Association, AHMA, was set up by industry enthusiasts in 2010. It serves as a guidepost, strengthening synergy within the industry, assisting hairstylists to improve their knowledge and skills and promoting the professionalism of the hairstyling industry. This performance will showcase the latest trends in the world of barbering by the finest talents of the AHMA.

presents

Organiser - Cosmoprof Asia Ltd

HAIR international

By JAMIE STEVENS 96 headway.net.nz

HAIR: Jamie StevensÂ @Jamie Stevens Hair, London, UK PHOTOGRAPHY: Jens Wikholm MAKEUP & STYLING: Jamie Stevens

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HAIR international

I NS PI R ATIO N London-based Jamie Stevens is one of the most decorated award-winning men’s hairdressers in the industry and was inspired by the personality of music icons through the eras for this collection. “A nation’s culture resides in the hearts and the souls of its people,” says Stevens. “I wanted to give each model their own unique image, showcasing their personality. I was inspired by the phrase ‘dare to be different’. Why should we be more comfortable seeing someone with a short back and sides over someone with a statement style?”

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what ’s trending The S/S 2020 mens collections featured a continuing change in attitude, heralded in last spring. More sensitive, more fluid, more languid. The most powerful message of the season may be that if men can tap into a new openness, then perhaps we can in politics too.

Welcome to the new rules

@ the.alpacino

@jeffgoldblum

This American Broadway performer is the new star of the Fashion Week red carpet and can be counted on to bring something extraordinary to any occasion. This sums up the star of the television series Pose beautifully. Follow him – he’s great.

The man is fly @theebillyporter

Look out for Al Pacino’s new film ‘The Irishman’. We predicted ‘Once Upon a Time in Hollywood’ was going to be impressive and this collection of some of the most powerful actors of their generation will no doubt be the same.

Heatwave

BRIXIT One of our fave collections from the S/S 2020 runway this year included the amazing talent of artistic director Claire Waight Keller and stylist Paul Hanlon, doing indie Brit pop justice at Givenchy.

Are you following us on Instagram? Gain the latest spring, beauty and fashion trends by following @headwaymagazine 100 headway.net.nz

@barberbarberuk

@mindbody

With a hot summer forecast for down under this year, look out for the French Crop according to British barber Johnny ‘BaBa’ Shannahan, founder of UK Barber Barber. A man who sponsors good causes as well.

Never been sure about this actor, but there is one thing we cannot deny; he takes a patterned short-sleeved shirt to a new level for early spring barbeque style. And that Prada shorts post was… unforgettable.

@hshq

You looking at me?

The Chop And finally, just before we went to print, Harry Styles got the chop. One tweet – ‘Whoever cut Harry Styles’ hair should be sacked’ - was even published in GQ. We love it, but then again it is Harry.

hair focus

W ER

er pr ca eta de tion

WHAT IS POWER?

B O’ w ne of

ri nt ho en l i i ng a is ooks at the chang into e po d d wer ful, as we hea new new a season a nd

his year marks the 10th anniversary of Forbes’ list of the world’s most powerful people. First published in 2009, slots are based on the amount of human and financial resources the power players have sway over, as well as their influence on world events. On the eve of Headway going to print, the 2019 list had yet to be published. If the question of who you thought was the most powerful person on the planet was asked at this week’s dinner party or end of week drinks, we are pretty certain the debate would be fairly heated and diverse. Power, the natural aphrodisiac for many, has traditionally been considered a masculine personality trait. In the more open-minded culture of the 21st century (we hope) personality traits are no longer gender-specific. Yet the majority of power, particularly if we use Forbes as the yard stick, still sits in the lap of the male species. Fortunately, power can also be seen in art, music, fashion and design. What we see, hear and experience has an enormous effect on our emotions and memories, and our decision to act. In our industry, we know the impact of touch and time, as well as the strength that comes from kindness.

Actually listening to our clients can be the most meaningful hour they have had all month, a move towards a new definition of power. For some social commentators, they see the shift in more males taking the time to destress and engage in looking after themselves as an indicator of the changing attitude towards the burden of being ‘manly’ and ‘powerful’. Power is in strength and calmness. Power is in communication and consideration. Always having to be strong, which could often be described as needing to be emotionally cut off and uncaring, has historically created an enormous amount of social pressure – evident in our NZ male suicide statistics. We predict that power players will no longer only be the politicians, and the most influential people may indeed be those who see a planet under pressure and are doing something about it. Their influence will be within their immediate community, not the world stage. Whoever will be announced as the most powerful person in the world this year, we know two things for certain. We have the ability and the capacity to make a difference and we don’t need to be a ‘world leader’ to do so.

Power /‘pa / noun the ability or capacity to do something or act in a particular way.

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THE BENEFITS OF FORMALISING CLIENT CONSULTATIONS Alyssa McArley, Marketing Manager at Kitomba Salon & Spa Software, gives 7 reasons why formalising the client consultation process is important for your business and your clientele

comprehensive client consultation is so important. It helps you understand client goals and expectations and gives them insight into what they can expect now and in the future. Formalising the consultation process is not about using forms to replace personal interaction; it’s about giving clients a consistent experience. Where appropriate, sit down with your clients using paper or electronic forms to guide the consultation. Discuss the questions and complete the form on your client's behalf or support them as they complete it themselves.

Get to know your new clients One of the most fundamental forms you can use is a new client form. Obviously, you’ll be collecting client contact information on their first visit, but you can also use this as a tool to help better serve their needs by getting to know their preferences, goals, lifestyle, appetite for change, and how much advice they’re looking for. You could even ask about their preference for conversation or quiet time during their visit. Software that allows your client to securely enter their information and automatically updates their client card makes it easy to store, update, and access the information. It’s worth checking in with returning clients too, to ensure the information you have is up to date.

Record consent Some treatments require you to obtain consent before you can complete the appointment. Protect your business from legal liability by implementing a standardised consultation process, ensuring all required discussions and signatures are completed prior to the treatment. This process is important for your business and also helps build a relationship of trust with your client. It shows them you’re an expert at what you do and you’re considering all of their needs.

Collect and securely store important information Discussing and capturing your client’s medical and treatment history can also be important. Utilising a medical history form ensures you accurately and consistently collect this information, reducing the risk of missing something relevant. This is sensitive information, so storing it securely in your software system offers you and your client peace of mind.

The main goal of your client consultation is to better understand your client’s history and goals so you can create a treatment plan, whether for a single appointment or a series of appointments. Using a form to record your recommended plan enables you to save a copy in your salon and spa software system, along with progress photos if applicable. Attaching the treatment plan to the client card makes it easy to review the plan with the client at the start of future appointments, to ensure you’re still on the same page. When booking a client’s upcoming appointments, refer back to your treatment plan to ensure return visits are booked at the right time to produce the best outcome for the client. Having a series of appointments booked in advance lets the client know what their schedule is, and keeps your appointment book looking good. You can also set up automatic email or text reminders to help reduce no-shows. 102 headway.net.nz

PHOTOGRAPHY: Shutterstock

Facilitate a treatment plan

headway business

Create consistency

Reduce admin with electronic forms

Using forms to facilitate client consultations helps create a system of quality and consistency. This ensures every client receives the same care and attention in the consultation process, no matter which staff member is completing it. Store completed forms in your salon software so staff can securely access relevant history, consents or other information before meeting with a client for the first time, and see at a glance if there are outstanding forms or consents to be completed. This way, your client receives personalised service every time, regardless of theÂ staff member.

For all their benefits, forms carry an administrative burden. Copying information from paper forms into client cards, scanning and saving a copy into your salon software, then filing the paper away is time-consuming. This manual process can also lead to errors and youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll need space to store all of the signed forms before eventually arranging their confidential disposal. In addition, all this paperwork comes at an environmental and financial cost. Salon software with in-built, customised, form functionality can solve these problems by automatically doing much of the admin for you.

Provide improved aftercare During or after each appointment, communicate any necessary aftercare advice to your client. Taking into account everything you have learned about your client enables you to recommend the most personalised aftercare. The ability to easily refer to records from previous appointments ensures you can offer consistent and considered recommendations and advice.

Kitomba Salon and Spa software has released customisable digital forms for client consultations, consent, and collecting information. Forms can be completed by clients on any device and are automatically saved to their Client Card, ensuring they can be referred to later. To book a demo, call 0800 161 101 or visit www.kitomba.com/free-demo.

Alyssa McArley is the Marketing Manager at Kitomba Salon & Spa Software. www.kitomba.com or call 0800 161 101.

Complies with New Zealand and Australian SPF standards (AS/NZS 2604:2012)

What’s so special about Kakadu Plum? Native to Australia, it contains the highest vitamin C content of any fruit in the world, measuring up to 100 times the vitamin C in oranges. A unique collagen-boosting and repairing super-fruit that we’re thrilled to utilise in our newest innovation. After months of research, development and testing, we introduce our beautiful new BB Cream Broad Spectrum SPF 30. Featuring six benefits in one, this product evens skin tone, hydrates, soothes & nourishes, is an antioxidant and offers a luminous complexion. Blush of colour, and healthy skin, all in one gorgeous Joyce Blok product.

Joyce Blok is a New Zealand brand owned by kiwi’s, designed by kiwi’s and loved by kiwi’s for over 45 years. Make it your New Zealand made brand of choice in 2019.

Joyce Blok BB Cream Broad Spectrum SPF 30 Introducing our new essential multi-tasker encompassing the best of science and nature…

For details on becoming a Joyce Blok expert or to find a Joyce Blok spa or salon near you, contact us on:

T: 0800 105 107 • E: info@joyceblok.co.nz • www.joyceblok.co.nz facebook.com/joyceblok • @joycebloknz

BEAUT Y

Mii Amo

Be enchanted by the red rocks of Sedona in Arizona, USA, as Sharleen Singh discovers a mystical spa resort

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ii amo opened in January 2001 as a 16-room, all-inclusive destination spa resort in a beautiful red rock canyon in Sedona, Arizona. The Sedona mystique and Native American wisdom combine with the backdrop of the canyon to promote wellness through mind, body and spiritual therapies. Highlytrained therapists, signature treatments, delicious â&#x20AC;&#x153;intelligent cuisineâ&#x20AC;?, abundant activities and customised packages define Mii amo.

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ENCHANTING DESTINATION Mii amo signifies “journey,” or “to continue one’s path” or “moving forward” in Yuman, a Native American dialect, and is located on the grounds of Enchantment Resort, a 70-acre property in Boynton Canyon in the red rock country of Sedona, Arizona. It is a twohour drive north of Phoenix, at a cooler elevation of 4,600 feet. One’s room key opens the gate to the Secret Mountain Wilderness in the Coconino National Forest, allowing direct access to the Boynton Canyon Trail.

NATIVE INSPIRATION The creation of this destination spa was inspired by one of the most spectacular natural settings on earth, Boynton Canyon, and by the Native American culture that graces the region. The 110 headway.net.nz

Yavapai-Apache consider Boynton Canyon a sacred place, the site of their creation story. Mii amo embraces the surrounding natural beauty of Boynton Canyon with a contemporary yet organic architecture that echoes the Anasazi architectural aesthetic.

SPA SPECS The 24,000-square-foot spa is comprised of a two-level main building, plus 16 guest accommodations arranged around interior courtyards. Nestled in the natural slope of the canyon with maximum views of the red rocks, the design utilises simple lines, monumental forms, and pure materials like adobe brick, wood, and indigenous stone to blend organically with the surrounding environment. The buildings are designed as a series of shifting volumes, clad

in earth-toned stucco with accents of brick and stone. Natural light and water are recurring themes, and interior and exterior spaces flow into one another, making the building easily adaptable to the seasons.

HEART AND SOUL The signature form is a 172-foot-long horizontal spine, from which rise five adobe brick towers inspired by the cliff dwellings of the Anasazi. The Crystal Grotto is the heart and soul of Mii amo. The womb-like, circular space connects earth and sky via an earthen floor and domed ceiling, with a circular aperture directed at the sun on the summer solstice. The circle is a symbol of wholeness, and the Crystal Grotto is used as a place for meditation and affirming one’s intention for the day. Each morning

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a Mii amo staff member will gather for a daily ritual to set the “intention of the day”. This morning ritual can include sage, singing bowls, drumming and other ceremonial pieces.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Supplied

UNIQUE TREATMENTS Restorative and transforming treatments and therapies are performed by intuitive, highly-trained and certified therapists. Treatments last a full 60 or 90 minutes and include massage, body scrubs, wraps, facials, Reiki, Cranial Sacral, hydrotherapy baths, Ayurveda and Watsu. Unique to Mii amo are Specialty Treatments, created exclusively for their guests. These include Native Americaninspired treatments such as Hozhooji, the Mii amo Blessing and Inner Quest; Spirit of the New Moon and Spirit of the Full

Moon; and intuitive treatments such as Harmony, Psychic Massage and AuraSoma Colour Reading, among others.

A JOURNEY All-inclusive packages of three, four, or seven nights include three daily meals at Mii amo Café, private consultation, fitness classes, activities, workshops, use of spa facilities and nightly gifts. Package rates vary depending on season, occupancy and room type. Guests are invited to co-create their itinerary with the guidance and expertise of Mii amo’s Journey Guides. Retreats are offered throughout the year, offering guests the opportunity to explore a specific theme in-depth with activities and sessions led by experts. Retreats are an added benefit to a guest’s journey. A true mystical escape.

miiamo.com mii_amo_spa

“The creation of this destination spa was inspired by one of the most spectacular natural settings on earth” headway.net.nz 111

Discover our potent, hand-crafted essential oil blends for everyday wellbeing Combining 30 yearsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; experience and heritage in the finest natural hand-blended, therapeutic grade essential oils with the latest technology, Aromatherapy Associates delivers an array of award-winning luxury bath, body and skincare products to enhance the state of the physical, mental and emotional wellbeing. Today, it is used and highly recommended by professional therapists and experts in holistic wellness in the finest luxury spas around the world.

To learn more or for details on becoming an Aromatherapy Associates stockist email info@selfcare.co.nz or call 0800 105 107

beaut y news Spring Look Define and enhance eyes with new shades of Jane Iredaleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s longwearing PurePressedÂŽ Eye Shadow. Shimmering duos and triples light up lids with luminous colour and dazzling dimension. Also new is Beyond Matte Liquid Foundation, with 18 buildable, ultra-smooth shades. This multi-tasking mineral formula is a primer, concealer and foundation all in one product. psb.co.nz

Blush Of Colour

After months of development and testing in order to comply with New Zealand and Australian SPF standards (AS/ NZS 2604:2012), Joyce Blok introduce their BB Cream Broad Spectrum SPF 30. This smooth, buildable, 6-in-1 cream protects against damaging UV rays, firms the skin and covers imperfections. A flush of colour this spring. selfcare.co.nz

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Perfect Lip Eye of Horus Bio Lip Elixir nourishes, repairs, regenerates and plumps lips with its 100% natural formula. The result is a high-gloss conditioning protective finish to use on its own for a sunkissed natural look, or over your favourite Velvet Matte Lips to add moisture and gloss. cs.co.nz

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Skin Saviour FROM WITHIN

Kiki Health have just launched for the first time in New Zealand, featuring natural, organic and GMO-free supplements and superfoods. Kiki offers a much-needed nutritional boost of natural vitamins, minerals and probiotics in an age where we are time-poor, over-worked and under-rested. probeauty.co.nz

Introducing the supercharged Katherine Daniels Total Skin Repair Concentrate, an SOS skin repair treatment for clients wanting to up their antiageing game. Over time, skin is activated to perform in a more youthful way, with the ability to protect itself from free radicals. houseofcamille.com

Season’s Best Introducing the latest additions from Sothys: • The Summer Chill Collection offers Parisian chic and an invitation to relax, travel and unwind. Featuring Bronzing Powder, a rosy Blush, Eye Quartet Palette with nude shades, Contour Lip Pencil in a universal shade, Lipstick Pencil in two spring shades and a Nail Enamel in radiant fushia, the final touch. • Sothys also launch their spring/summer seasonal treatment. Delicious notes of Yuzu and Grapefruit hydrate and restore radiance in only 45 minutes. sothys.co.nz

Glow-Getter

St.Tropez release the ultimate essentials for glowing, bronzed and radiant skin this season. Introducing Gradual Tan Watermelon Infusion Body Lotion, Prep+Maintain Tan Remover Mousse, Self Tan Purity Bronzing Water Face Mist, Self Tan Purity Bronzing Water Gel and Self Tan Watermelon Infusion Bronzing Mousse. Love! cs.co.nz

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GENTLE ALTERNATIVE

Rebel With A Cause

NEXT LEVEL

Transform the way you treat skin with Dermalux Flex, the most advanced portable LED system in the world. Featuring clinically proven wavelengths, seven treatment protocols and face and body application, this lightweight, high-quality machine offers a next level complexion boost. houseofcamille.com

Comfortel’s Maverick Reception Desk is a rebel compared to the rest. This compact reception desk boasts structural matte black metal, concrete look finish, and a contrasting white gloss top adding a sophisticated touch. The best thing about Maverick? Its neat compact design, which also makes it the perfect standing desk. comfortel.co.nz

OCEAN’S AHEAD

Nobel-Winning

Add a boost of Nobel-Prizewinning science to your anti-aging skincare regime. Previously only available as a nourishing serum, One Truth 818 now comes in a more economical atomiser spray, containing the same strength of the powerful TAM818 molecule, working to reverse wrinkles, fine lines and pigmentation. probeauty.co.nz

Thalgo continue to inspire with new Peeling Marin, which offers a “new skin” effect. Derived from new-generation Micronised Marine Algae, this 30 minute treatment results in a more refined skin texture, plumping effect and radiant complexion. This is accompanied by four Peeling Marin products to continue the results at home. infinisea.co.nz

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PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied

The A|C|C|O|R Cosmetic Corrector uses a combination of plasma and Low Frequency (LF+) technology, which enables the treatment imprint to be wider and shallower than traditional thermalonly devices. An especially gentle and low-pain alternative to skin tightening surgery, which achieves incredible, permanent results, immediately. houseofcamille.com

Sensitive skin PERFUME FREE, HYPOALLERGENIC AND DERMATOLOGICALLY TESTED

BOTANICAL HERO

cotton extract

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what ’s trending The beauty industry is a $532 billion business. Regardless of what is happening in any economy, the forecast of growth is between 5-7% by 2025. The ‘lipstick effect’ means that our industry is one of the most powerful on the planet. Celebrate this spring and remain inspired by what you do…enjoy

Mum’s the word

@cbritishivogue

@therealgracecoddington

Beauty influencers James Charles and Kylie Jenner have millions of followers around the world but the number one influencer in shaping people’s beauty routines is still their mother. 49% of our beauty routine is based on what our mum’s did.

Who we’d like to meet Anna may frighten us but Grace? Now this is someone we would love to meet. An extraordinary force of nature who vibrates with creative talent – a true powerhouse.

@jamescharles

Forces for Change The September issue of Vogue is always a must for us. This year was exceptional; even more so as it was photographed by the legend himself, Pete Lindbergh RIP.

Makeup Artist

@rodarte

@valerykaufman

Taking a page from the ever-present millennial pink, pale mint, and soft orange palette is the next big thing this spring. No one does it better than Jo Baker with her gelato fantasy makeup on Lucy Boynton.

Model pick

Otherworldly eyelashes and teddy girl liner were key trends on the catwalk this season. It was the glitter renaissance perfected at Rodarte that caught our eye. Christmas style inspiration anyone?

Are you following us on Instagram? Gain the latest spring hair, beauty and fashion trends by following @headwaymagazine 118 headway.net.nz

@missjobaker

The eyes have it

Valery Kaufman is currently one of the most sought-after models in the world. She stands out with what is considered the current 70s look, which remains as powerful as ever this season. She is also a collector of tea cups – trivial fact.

Rejuvenating Night Programme

Sweet dreams for your skin.... It is well known that our skin is most efficient at repairing and rejuvenating itself while at rest during the hours of our restorative sleep. In harnessing this chronological pattern, Sothysâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; has developed the Noctuelle Night programme which includes a Detox resurfacing overnight cream, Chrono-destressing sleeping mask and a limited edition Relaxing pillow mist. Composed of a low molecular weight and stabilised Vitamin C and the hero botanical; Nasturtium extract, well regarded for its powerful oxygenating like effect. This nightly ritual will aid in restoring and replenishing your skin night after night, while you sleep.

sothys.co.nz the professionals choice in clinic & spa

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Power Players Our Headway faves share their industry stories and thoughts on spring trends

Jordan Rondel

Out of an undying obsession with making cakes. I would get home from school every day and all I wanted to do was bake. In 2010 I created The Caker, almost by accident, but word of my cakes, which were completely unique at the time, spread like wild fire. Before I knew it I was taking dozens of orders and make wedding cakes. Fast forward nine years and we are a team of 14 in our pumping K’Rd bakery, I have three published books, a line of luxury cake mixes, and am looking at expanding the business into Los Angeles.

Your career “pinch-me” moment? When Pamela Anderson ate some of a cake that my friend had brought to a party she was at, and apparently she said it was the best cake she’d ever had!

Your go-to spring look? Levis or Dickies and a cashmere sweater or hoodie - I’m pretty casual, but I like to always do something bold with my eye makeup, have cool nails and interesting jewellery to take it up a level.

Your daily hair & beauty routine? Skin: In the morning I cleanse with Bioderma Micellar Water and apply a generous amount of Trilogy MoistureShield SPF 15 moisturiser. In the evening I cleanse with Eve Lom cleanser, followed by a gentle application of Alpha H Liquid Gold with glycolic acid and then I massage in some Bioderma Hydrabio Serum. I exfoliate twice a week with Aesop Exfoliant Paste. 120 headway.net.nz

Hair: I wash every second day with KEVIN.MURPHY ANGEL.WASH and ANGEL.RINSE and try to do a treatment once a week.

Your go-to spring look?

What’s a trend that you’d like to see less of?

I don’t really do anything with my hair, I keep it natural. I use a mixture of Barbara Sturm and Perricone on my skin morning and night.

I’m personally upset that I got a lot of my good jeans and pants cropped a few years back to show ankle. Now I want them to be long and do not want to see sock or ankle!

Tiffany Jeans

Curionoir Tell us how Curionoir was created? Curionoir was first created after I made some small candle keepsakes for guests at my wedding, while I was studying fragrance development. My good friend Kristine Crabb of Miss Crabb thought it would be nice for her to sell them in her store and the rest is history.

Your career “pinch-me” moment? Opening our perfumery on Ponsonby Road in Auckland. It’s been so wonderful to create a space with a sensory experience being the most important aspect for our guests.

While it’s still cold, a beautiful woollen coat over the top of my outfit.

Your daily hair & beauty routine?

What’s a trend that you’d like to see less of? Botox, fillers and plastic surgery.

PHOTOGRAPHY Supplied and shutterstock

The Caker How was The Caker born?

@kssmmakeup

name here name here

@ thecaker

@osmosisskin.nz

Kay Roby

Osmosis Skincare Your career highlight? I absolutely love what I do and there’s always something new just around the corner. For me it’s not so much about the highlights, but about enjoying every moment, even the smallest ones. It’s about celebrating the now. Most recently, my company Osmosis Skincare NZ hosted an event at the stunning Glasshouse in Auckland. It was the unveiling of Osmosis+Beauty. Over 100 therapists, and a select group of NZ’s top beauty editors and influencers were a captive audience to our world famous formulator and founder, Dr Ben Johnson. The day was an accumulation of everything I had dreamed of in the last 10 years of working with Osmosis. Everything was so beautiful it literally took my breath away.

Your go-to spring look I am inspired by the Hygge way of living. My go-to is a nice pair of jeans, a t-shirt and a pair of fresh slides or sneakers. As for makeup, it’s got to be natural and I love that dewy and fresh skin has made a comeback. If your skin is healthy and hydrated, makeup is much easier to apply on top. I wear my hair in a straight short blunt black bob which is easy to care for with the help of my ghd’s.

What’s a trend that you’d like to see less of? In terms of fashion, we all get it that new trends are just old trends coming around again. I’m not a big fan of the current crochet tops. I just bought one and will never wear it again. It’s in my drawer of mistakes along with my stone washed and very uncomfortable low rise jeans -

ugh! In terms of beauty, I would like to see all acid skin peels and other harmful toxic beauty treatments completely banned. I think after 40 years of seeing the results of these “quick fix anti-ageing treatments”, it is very obvious they are not making our skin any younger. If you want to age beautifully, be kind to yourself and others, feed your skin and body with pure and healthy goodness. My biggest lesson, there is no quick fix. @curionoir

Kristen Stewart

Kristen Stewart School of Make-up How did you start out in the industry? I studied photography and started working on shoots as an assistant. Even though the industry had been in the background of my life growing up, I did not understand what makeup artists did. It was working on shoots where I observed artists creating, and I knew I was in the wrong line of work. I had a three-day course with Margaret Petchell to learn the basics, then taught myself for the next couple of years, lucky enough to work on shoots for the likes of the Wella and Corbans collections, whilst being mentored by my favourite artists. I then jetted off to London to study at the Glauca Rossi School of Make-up, which is when the doors really opened for me.

Your career “pinch-me” moment? To be honest there are so many! However, I think there are two. Firstly, working with Harrison Ford. I was young and he was a childhood hero. The other was working at Pinewood Studios in London. It was a surreal place to be.

Your most requested makeup look in spring? It’s all about the skin - fresh, lively and clean. There is a lot of dew and shine happening at the moment, with a slight pop of colour. Subtle and pretty.

Your daily beauty routine? This is when I don’t represent my industry very well. I do not wear make up! However, skincare is very important to me, using all MAC Cosmetics. I apply the Green Gel Foaming Face Wash, then Lightful C + Coral Grass Softening Lotion Spray, Fast Response Eye Cream and Studio Cream Moisturiser.

What’s a trend that you’d like to see less of? Instagram/YouTube makeup! I think the amount of makeup girls (and boys) are layering on their faces is horrible! It may look great with their ring lights and filters but to the naked eye, it looks like a mask. We are not seeing beautiful skin anymore, just pancake foundation, drawn on eyebrows, fake lashes, overhighlighted cheeks and generally too much contouring. It’s not pretty. headway.net.nz 121

Joyce Blok Serum CEF Featuring a unique cocktail of antioxidants, this powerful concentrate also assists healing, neutralises free radicals, supports collagen production, improves skin blemishes and scarring, and works to instantly brighten the complexion, especially after a change in season. selfcare.co.nz

Karen Murrell Lipstick in 23 Blushing Rose Featuring all-natural ingredients, this longlasting, creamy lipstick is the perfect spring shade. With a graceful glow, this subtle nude pink has just enough colour to warm your lips beautifully. karenmurrell.com

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Thalgo Exfoliating Shower Gel This limited-edition shower gel utilises sand and micro algae extract to smooth and remineralise the skin. Its soft fragrance inspired by MonoĂŻ, Vanilla and Coconut will have you dreaming of spring. infinisea.co.nz

Aromatherapy Associates Support Breathe Bath & Shower Oil High concentrations of hand-blended Pine, Tea Tree and Eucalyptus essential oils release soothing vapours to clear, ease heaviness and support jaded energy. Bathing in this clearing oil is also the perfect antidote to seasonal snuffles. selfcare.co.nz

M.A.C Supreme Beam Iridescent Powder in Silver Dusk Designed to apply easily and uniformly without streaking and caking, this powder is perfect on its own or mixed into foundations or moisturisers to enhance them. Offering the perfect spring-dew effect. maccosmetics.co.nz

IMAGE: Shutterstock and supplied

The Spring Edit

Our essential picks for the season of change

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O Cosmedics Fruit Peel Mask This unique 3-in-1 fruit peel, mask and exfoliant uses fruit enzymes to promote healthy, smooth, hydrated and radiant skin. Infused with O Cosmedics’ signature V8 Peptide Complex, it’s perfect for all skin types. probeauty.co.nz

Yon-Ka For Men Lotion YK This lotion for the guys immediately brings freshness without leaving any oiliness. Alcohol-free, it doesn’t irritate the skin, soothes razor burn, and the aromatic scents of its nine essential oils are an added bonus. beautysense.co.nz

Ginger&Me Be Grateful Body Oil

Sothys Chrono-Destressing Sleeping Mask

This super-indulgent and natural body oil feeds and protects the skin, leaving the body silky and nourished. Made with no nasties, this luxurious blend supports skin healing and skin health. probeauty.co.nz

Utilising stabilised vitamin C, this powerful anti-ageing mask stimulates cellular activity and collagen synthesis, resulting in a brighter more radiant skin that is nourished at night and revived in the morning. sothys.co.nz

NEW PEELING MARIN WRINKLES . PORES . COMPLEXION . TONE

‘New Skin’ effect after the 1st first treatment

10 MINS

The 1st marine cosmeceutical range with fermented Micronised Algae acids. Offers a progressive, customised approach to meet each skin concern. Works to renew skin quality for a Follow-Up visible “new skin” effect. Personalised

Let the sea empower your beauty Exclusive Agent for Thalgo in New Zealand 09 362 0882 | info@infinisea.co.nz | www.infinisea.co.nz

BEAUT Y feature

GYM SKIN Sharleen Singh takes a look at fresh-faced products that clients can wear during and after exercise

Proprietary LED technology with the 1 Dermalux guarantee of quality and efficacy

Pre-workout Before exercising, it’s important to encourage clients to remove all makeup, including heavy foundation that may clog up pores, especially as the body works up a sweat. Encourage the practise of using a cleanser and following up with a toner, to ensure there are no nasties lurking on the skin. Also suggest an application of an antioxidant serum or hydration booster, especially important before the body goes into overdrive, and for more mature skins. An antiseptic lotion is also a great addition for both face and body before a workout, to reduce oiliness and prevent blemishes. It’s a no-brainer for us, but if your client is a runner or has signed up to an outdoors-based boot camp, SPF is a must not only on the face, but all areas exposed to the sun. This is a critical part of skincare for outdoors sportspeople so try and offer a waterproof option if you can. For some clients, going completely au naturel is a no-go. Encourage a light BB cream instead of a heavy foundation, something that will offer light coverage, yet won’t wreak havoc on their pores. A 124 headway.net.nz

lash lift, tint and microblade treatment is for the ultimate gym bunny, but a dash of waterproof mascara always offers an instant bright-eyed look.

Post-workout After a workout, an invigorating shower gel paired with a gentle scrub is recommended, to ensure that blemishes and breakouts don’t happen. Paired with a face cleanse and hydrating face mist, your clients are good to go. It’s also a great idea to have products on hand to ease sore, tired muscles. Whether it’s a soothing oil or a relaxing gel, your clients will always appreciate a product that can offer a sense of relaxation at home when they aren’t able to pop into the spa. As always, end the week with a nourishing boost in the form of a face mask. As well as helping get rid of any potential clogged pores, this will also ensure skin is healed, rejuvenated and glowing, ready to take on another week of working out. In-spa, create your very own post-gym skin care kits filled with the essentials needed during a boot camp that you could offer your clients that are either starting out, or are already gym-enthusiasts. The perfect way to ensure your client’s skin is protected, glowing and healthy – happy gymming.

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1. Aromatherapy Associates De-Stress Muscle Gel. 2. Waterlily Bio Cleansing Oil. 3. YON-KA Lotion Invigorating Mist. 4. Medik8 Clarity Peptides. 5. Jane Iredale PureLash Mascara. 6. Environ Vita-Enriched Antioxidant Gel. 7. Joyce Blok Active Purifying Lotion. 8. Sothys Athletics Nutri-relaxing Oil. 9. RevitaBrow Hi-Def Tinted Brow Gel. 10. Thalgo Ultra Hydra-Marine Mask.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Shutterstock

or those that have a positive relationship with the gym, or exercise in general, the feeling of working out helps your head feel clearer and your body feel fitter. When it comes to skin however, working out can expose blemish and acne-causing bacteria, which is an unwelcome side-effect. Luckily, there are a range of excellent products perfect for both pre and post-workouts that will have clients skin glowing and healthy, and muscles soothed and restored, especially during the pre-summer workout season.

AWARD WINNING MANUFACTURER Five-time Winner of Best Treatment at the Aesthetics Awards

WORLD LEADERS IN LED PHOTOTHERAPY

WHAT DOES THE MOST POWERFUL PORTABLE LED SYSTEM LOOK LIKE?

ORDER NOW AND GET STARTED Contact Secure your Cosmetic Corrector today and become a Master of Medical Beauty. 0800 406 416 www.houseofcamille.co.nz Further Info and Presentation appointments: sales@houseofcamille.co.nz ACCOR@SAMSONMEDICALTECHNOLOGIES.COM.AU orders@houseofcamille.co.nz

Clinically Proven Licensor: Wavelengths

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Elements of Beauty GmbH, Potsdamer Platz 1, 10785 Berlin

Application for Face and Body

Comfortable and Hygienic

Distributor: Australia & New Zealand SAMSON MEDICAL TECHNOLOGIES PTY LTD. PH: +61 2 9056 5038 Email: ACCOR@SAMSONMEDICALTECHNOLOGIES.COM.AU Contact us for more information or to order your system today. www.samsonmedicaltechnologies.com.au

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SPRING CLEAN

Sharleen Singh takes a look at this season’s best cleansing products for revitalised skin

1. Aromatherapy Associates Hydrating Renewing Rose Cleanser is supremely effective, leaving skin dewy and petal-soft.

2. Joyce Blok Refreshing Gel Cleanser is pH-balanced, protecting from moisture loss and refreshing skin with lime and neroli.

3. LaGaia Micellar Cleansing Water protects the skin’s natural barrier function and is gentle enough to leave on the skin.

4. DP Dermaceuticals Tri-Phase Cleanser protects skin moisture while gently removing makeup, and diminishes the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. 5. Environ Skin EssentiA Low Foam Cleansing Gel contains gentle surfactants and conditioning agents that assist in hydrating the skin while cleansing.

6. Image Skincare Vital C Hydrating Facial Cleanser infuses skin with high levels of essential antioxidants and vitamin C to brighten and nourish as it cleanses.

8. Sothys’ perfect spring duo includes Red Line Glysalac Skin Preparer to refresh and brighten, and Glysalac Dermobooster to unclog oil-congested pores and reduce blemishes. 9. Thalgo Makeup Removing Cleansing Gel-Oil offers a sensory experience to soften skin, leaving it with a matte and non-greasy finish and is perfect for every skin type.

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9 PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and Supplied

7. The multi-texured Katherine Daniels Miracle Cleansing Jelly transforms into a delicate oil then a gentle milk, lifting impurities and makeup, leaving skin glowing.

Licensor: Elements of Beauty GmbH, Potsdamer Platz 1, 10785 Berlin Distributor: Australia & New Zealand

Discover more at www.houseofcamille.com SAMSON MEDICAL TECHNOLOGIES PTY LTD. PH: +61 2 9056 5038 Phone 0800 406 416 Email: ACCOR@SAMSONMEDICALTECHNOLOGIES.COM.AU sales@houseofcamille.co.nz www.samsonmedicaltechnologies.com.au

A brand of

BEAUT Y focus

BODY TALK

however, patient demand for less dramatic procedures has paved the way for innovation and a focus towards noninvasive procedures. Body sculpting in the form of targeting fat pockets through cooling saw an increase in 2018 and 2019, and so too did treatments featuring electromagnetic currents to firm and lift the buttock and abdominal areas. Late 2018 saw a rise in non-surgical facial treatments in dermabrasion, so beauty forecasters are predicting that it will only be a matter of time before this expands to other areas of the body. With more innovations set to launch in 2020, body treatments are something we need to focus on, including on spa menus and retail offerings, especially this season.

From AHAs to body foundation, Sharleen Singh explores the movement towards body love, in preparation for the warmer months

Active Body Products

Love them or loathe them, the Kardashians’ products have often been an indicator of trends to come. First it was Kylie Jenner’s lips, and subsequent Lip Kits helping to drive the lip filler movement of recent times. Now Kim Kardashian West has launched her KKW Body Foundation, which led to Fenty Beauty and M.A.C featuring products in the body foundation and highlighter category. It is fair to say it’s likely we will only see more and more beauty ranges expanding into the world of body makeup – a new lucrative market for beauty. Chrissy Teigen infamously posted on Instagram, 6 alongside a picture of legs-up-inthe-air mid-makeup application, the caption, “When I was young, 5 makeup was just for the face”. Everevolving, body makeup is the new norm.

Our Picks:

Firming Treatments For decades, liposuction was an industry-wide standard. Nowadays 128 headway.net.nz

1. Thalgo Body Sculpt Body Palp. 2. Environ Body A, C & E Oil. 3. Ginger & Me Body Peel. 4. Sothys Pro-Youth Body Serum. 5. ASPAR Grapefruit & Seaweed Revitalising Body Cleanser. 6. Aromatherapy Associates Revive Body Oil. 7. Sisley Paris Cellulinov. 8. YonKa Smoothing Exfoliating Cream.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Shutterstock

Body Makeup

Now is more important than ever to offer extensive body retail products, alongside facial products. Body products are featuring active ingredients that were previously only found in products for the face. AHA’s and BHA’s are perfect for anyone with body acne and hyperpigmentation; vitamin C is ideal for brightening; and Hyaluronic Acid for long-lasting hydration are top of a long list of superior ingredients now being used for 3 the body. Along with firming and revitalising oils, toning lotions and peels, this is one of the fastest growing product segments in our industry. Problem skin does not stop at the chin and accurately prescribed body care and treatments with positive results have a remarkable effect on self-esteem and confidence. Body love is here to stay.

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BEAUT Y focus

SPA SPACES

Sharleen Singh looks at the importance of thinking beyond skin care in-spa

hen it comes to spa offerings, it can be confusing to know where to begin. In the world of looking beyond skin care, more spas are embracing spaces that offer clients a complete wellness experience. To start you off, here are our picks on how to keep clients interested and engaged in the world of skin health.

Book Club As well as a selection of high-quality magazines in your waiting room (along with a shiny new Headway of course), you should be offering more alongside these reception staples. There are a wide variety of beauty and spa-themed books on offer, which you can stack on your coffee table or arrange on a shelf. Not only are these informative and a welcome source of beauty knowledge that clients can purchase, but they double as gorgeous décor for your spa – sometimes you do need to judge a book by its cover.

Scent-Sational If I mention the Peter Alexander store, chances are the sweet scent that advises your nose of its approaching location comes to mind. A signature scent is such a great way to enable clients to remember your spa, and a way to take it home with them to recreate some spa magic in their own private sanctuary. Whether it be a signature candle, or your very own blend of oils, add a little something special to your clients' treatment rooms, such as a relaxing blend to enhance a massage. Speaking of scents, room fragrances are another item that more ranges are expanding into. From relaxing to reviving, offer a selection for your client’s oil burners or aromatisers. Whether 130 headway.net.nz

it’s for the bath, or to revive the mood during get-togethers at home, ensure you have a selection for your clientele on-hand, and burning in-spa.

Indoor Jungle Consider bringing the outdoors in to create a jungle oasis in-spa. Not only does this create a feeling of calm, but indoor plants have been proven to reduce stress levels and boost moods levels. This is, after all, what we aim to do, so why not enhance the experience for clients. In addition, baby plants and succulents make for a fun addition to your spa store as well. Another visually appealing option is a living wall in the reception area, or a moss wall for a wet room. Linking a strong sense of calm, which nature tends to do, can elevate your spa’s status to true wellness retreat.

Precious Elements As well as looking spectacular, especially if you have an area that catches light in reception, incorporating crystals into a spa menu and décor is an ideal way to embrace this growing trend. During a massage, place crystals under the table to add something special to your treatment. Rose quartz under the heart, smoky quartz underneath the feet, and selenite to cleanse the room are a few things you could begin with. Alternatively, different crystals embedded in each room could allow you to offer different rooms based on needs, such as a balance room (hematite), relax room (amethyst) and love and tranquillity room (rose quartz) – especially for couple’s treatments. The possibilities are endless for creating a spa space for clients that is functional, beautiful, and unique to your business.

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Our Picks: Forage + Bloom Repose Hydratē Purple Amethyst Drink Bottle LaGaia Jade Roller

Harney & Sons Fine Teas Yellow & Blue

ASPAR Relax Essential Oil

Aromatherapy Associates Revive Room Fragrance

ACNE x 3 TREATMENTS

Courtesy of M.Wright, Australian Laser & Skin Clinics (Australia)

Sunescape Bali Breeze Candle

Thalgo Polynesia Candle

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied

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AGING/SUN DAMAGE x 4 TREATMENTS Courtesy of C.Knowles, Bella Pelle Clinic (Australia)

WHAT’S STOPPING YOU FROM HAVING THE BEST? 1. Eat Beautiful by Wendy Rowe 2. The Atlas of Beauty by Mihaela Noroc 3. Shine by The Essentialists 4. High Vibrational Beauty by Kerrilynn Pamer and Cindy Diprima Morisse 5. The Nature of Beauty by Imelda Burke

For more information visit www.probeauty.co.nz

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BEAUT Y appearance medicine

GROWING YOUNGER It’s a privilege to grow older, but that doesn’t mean we have to grow ‘old’, explains Dr Catherine Stone

PHOTOGRAPHY: Shutterstock

ust last week, I had a nearly 70 year old woman come and request cosmetic treatments for the first time, in preparation for her 70th birthday. She is still working, has just finished her Masters degree, and has started a new relationship this year. Only a few days earlier, one of my long term clients – who started modelling in her 60’s and is now well into her 70’s – shared with me that she had recently retired, and taken up competitive sports now that she had the extra time to focus on what she enjoys. I started thinking about some of my other favourite clients who are in their 70’s and 80’s. They are active, smart, gorgeous, funny – and their lives are expanding as they age, rather than contracting. I wrote about several of them in my first book ‘Grow Younger And More Beautiful As You Age’. My favourite recent story from one of these lovely ladies was of her being suddenly and forcibly stopped in the street by a young man in his early 30’s. At first, she thought she was going to be mugged, but he had stopped in his tracks and gone back to tell her, ‘I think you are stunningly beautiful’. This incredible lady is highly intelligent and successful, always up with the latest fashion and immaculately dressed, has beautiful skin and features, and will often pass for being my age (mid-40’s) when we go out for a drink together. She is almost 71! It strikes me that so often people start growing ‘old’ when they start believing that they can’t do the things they used to do. Instead of life expanding and growing, it starts to contract. What inspires me about these women (and we have some men in their 70’s and

80’s too), is that they seek cosmetic treatments as part of a bigger picture – they feel youthful, and so they seek for their face to reflect that back in the mirror. We are so fortunate these days to have access to the choices that we do. Not only can we help people look and feel more youthful, or like the best version of themselves, we can also modulate the negative expressions such as anger, tiredness, stress, sadness, and sagginess that start to develop as our faces age. By softening negative expressions on a person’s face, people react to them differently, and their lives often become easier.

“It strikes me that so often people start growing ‘old’ when they start believing that they can’t do the things they used to do” I was privileged to recently receive training with Mauricio de Maio, the Brazilian plastic surgeon who invented the non-surgical ‘8 point lift’ using dermal filler, and the revolutionary next level of this technique called the ‘MD Codes’. The MD Codes create an architecture to the artistry of dermal filler treatments, and is a six-year course. In Australasia, the top 200 injectors were invited to train personally this year with Mauricio for Year 4: Distinction. I was one of 15 training faculty for the MD Codes who had a private day of training with him where we learned

how to personalise the special MD Codes formulas to help people look less saggy, less tired, less sad, less angry, more attractive, younger, more slimmer/ more contoured, and more feminine/ masculine. The results that can be achieved with dermal fillers, using the MD Codes formulas, are taking what we do with non-surgical treatments to another level – whilst still looking natural, and retaining a person’s unique beauty. While attitude plays such a significant role in ‘growing younger’ and living your best life, and cosmetic treatments can help you look the way you want to feel, and grow older beautifully, it’s often the everyday choices of diet and lifestyle that help your body and mind to stay sprightly and youthful. We’re really excited to soon release the only cookbook to focus on growing younger: ‘Grow Younger With Great Food’. With over 90 easy, healthy and delicious recipes, as well as advice on how to use food and lifestyle to grow yourself younger, I have worked with the incredible nutritionist Jessica GiljamBrown (BSc), of Wellness By Jessica, to combine our wealth of knowledge in human health and positive ageing. This cookbook will be available online and from all good book stores from October the 16th, 2019. If you’d like to be one of the first to receive it, you can register for a special pre-sale price, and exclusive recipes not included in the book, by visiting bit.ly/GrowYoungerCookbook. So hopefully you’ll be just as inspired to be inspirational in your attitude and lifestyle as my lovely clients in their 70’s and 80’s, when you eventually get there! They are embracing cosmetic medicine – and the cosmetic industry is adjusting to accommodate them! headway.net.nz 133

BEAUT Y focus

TIME TO SEE THE LIGHTâ&#x20AC;Ś The team at Beauty Sense share their expertise and guidelines in choosing the right LED technology for your business.

ED technology has improved dramatically in recent years and, consequently, devices are more affordable and more versatile than ever. While selecting the appropriate machine may seem overwhelming, it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to be. There are well-established and simple guidelines to ensure an informed decision. A well-chosen device will yield a quick return on investment, optimize client outcomes, increase

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referrals, and enhance bottom line revenue through increased services and sales. To begin, choose a device that is FDA-cleared. This means that the device has been rigorously reviewed for both efficacy and safety. The cleared indications-for-use should be relevant to the conditions to address. Look for an efficient, multipurpose device. Just like

smartphones, LED devices have become multifunctional, lightweight, and streamlined. Whether deciding between a panelstyle or a handheld LED, modern devices are designed for efficiency and can address a variety of conditions within a single machine, thereby minimizing investment and requiring minimal storage space. When selecting an LED device, there are several factors to consider which impact the cellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ability to absorb the emitted energy.

Wavelength Choose a device emitting evidence-based wavelengths â&#x20AC;&#x201C; blue, red, and near-infrared. These wavelengths have been widely shown to increase ATP production in cells, which are compromised due to ageing, illness, disease, or just poor lifestyle choices. Blue addresses acne issues, while red and near-infrared decrease inflammation and increase microcirculation, bringing more oxygen and nutrients C M to the area. In aesthetics, red and near-infrared are particularly desirable for their ability to stimulate fibroblast activity and boost Y collagen and elastin production. No other wave-lengths are more CM broadly supported by incredible scientific research. MY

Energy Absorption

The efficacy of a light therapy session depends on the amount of CMY energy absorbed by the cells. Therefore, it is prudent to choose an K LED array system that can contour to the treatment area for optimal energy absorption. Laws of optical physics have established that the closer the light device is positioned to the skin, the more energy is absorbed. A flexible panel device with a large treatment area has the distinct advantage over rigid light delivery systems, where the distance between the light source and skin is difficult to keep constant, leading to inconsistent light absorption. While handheld LEDs are ideal for spot treatment and are normally used directly on the skin, they can lack efficiency due to the small treatment area.

Energy Delivery It is well known that the beneficial effects resulting from LED therapy require a specific energy delivery. The correct parameters will result in processes known to promote anti-ageing, enhance wound healing, reduce pain, and reduce acne, as well as other clinical benefits. The acceptable range of energy delivery for an effective LED device is measured in joules and should be in the range of two to 12 joules per square centimeter.

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock

Pulsing Pulsing adds a higher level of sophistication and effectiveness to an LED device and its importance is often over-looked. Delivering the light energy in a pulsed manner has been shown in clinical literature to enhance the cellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ability to absorb more energy over the treatment period. Used as a treatment enhancing add-on or as a stand-alone treatment, LED offers something for every aesthetic practitioner, massage therapist, and client alike

what ’s trending Spring is all about change and is the season of growth, movement and a focus on the mind. We were inspired by new fitness routines, plants, the joy of a strong body and a calm mind as we start the power up to summer…be well

Pole dancing

@thesustainablefashionforum

An article on Byrdie discussing pole dancing as a new trend for body fitness certainly got the conversation going in the office. Will this trend become the new Pilates? We’ll keep you posted...

@calm

Well fashion – more is less

Years ago, meditation was an alternative activity for wellness insiders, but is now gaining the momentum that yoga did 20 years ago. We highly recommend the Calm app and feed.

Sustainable fashion is blowing up on social media, with influencers and celebrities making a bigger “well fashion” impact. A relevant trend to watch and a timely reminder of other ways to think, as more sustainable actually means less fashion…

@tatjanavanonna

Meditation

Nature calls People in urban areas recognise nature as our new medicine with enough science about the health benefits of nature to get our attention. Check it out Sarah Ivens Forest Therapy.

@mindbody

@fleurette__

@sarahlucyivens

Motion

Flower Power

The team at Headway have been using the MindBody app this winter and have become firm fans. Spring motto via the feed - there is power in strength.

It doesn’t always go to plan for advocates of a weekly bunch of natural beauty when the beautiful bouquet doesn’t arrive as dreamed of. So settling for a digital version can be just as uplifting.

Are you following us on Instagram? Gain the latest spring, beauty and fashion trends by following @headwaymagazine 136 headway.net.nz

Beaut y wellness

HIGH PERFORMER Sharleen Singh speaks to Dr Ron Goedeke on the benefits of CBD Oil, a rising buzzword in the wellness industry

rom a completely taboo subject, to one of the fastest growing trends in beauty and wellness, as highlighted at the inaugural American Spa CBD Summit in August this year, CBD Oil is growing like wildfire. We speak to Dr Ron Goedeke (MD, BSC HONS MBCHB, FNZCAM), specialist in alternative and functional medicine, and one of New Zealand’s leaders in this new and growing field of medicine.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Shutterstock

Hemp, marijuana and CBD – what’s the difference? These are all words that refer to the cannabis sativa plant. Hemp is the name given to strains of cannabis that have less than 0.3% THC by cannabinoid content. With extremely low THC levels, the cannabinoid responsible for the famous high, hemp is the version of cannabis used for everything from clothing, food products, fuel, plastics, CBD oil supplements and more. Marijuana is a slang term for cannabis, which was first introduced during a smear campaign in the early 1900’s. This eventually led to the bans on cannabis around the world. Cannabis remained popular on the black market for people seeking the high, which resulted in decades of cross-breeding plants to create strains with extremely high levels of THC, keeping the name marijuana. CBD, or cannabidiol, is one of the most abundant cannabinoids created by the cannabis plant. Unlike THC, its psychoactive counterpart, CBD, has no intoxicating effect and is known for its vast range of health benefits. Typically, CBD comes in an oil form, extracted from the resin on the bud of the cannabis plant and consumed as drops or vaporised.

Why has CBD become so popular? People are getting real results and

they’re talking about it more openly. With receptors around the entire body that bind to CBD, the reach of potential CBD benefits is wide. It is helping many people deal with a variety of different health problems.

Is CBD legal in New Zealand? Last year it was extremely difficult to get CBD oil legally in New Zealand but there was a shift in legislation around October, making CBD available through the prescription of a medical professional. While not ideal yet, it was a step in the right direction.

What are some skin care benefits of CBD? The bulk of the research into CBD and skin care is in the anti-inflammatory benefits. If the skin care issue you’re looking to treat is inflammatory in nature, there is a strong chance CBD could help settle the inflammation. It also has antimicrobial properties, making it a great addition to caring for wounds and skin fungus.

What are the latest CBD developments? In New Zealand, we’re still behind the rest of the world when it comes to cannabis and CBD, so we have a lot to look forward to in the coming years. CBD should eventually become available over the counter, like it is through Europe and the US, opening up availability to the general public and bringing the price down dramatically. Headway note: It looks like we’ll have to wait until next year’s referendum on the decriminalisation of cannabis to reap the benefits of CBD Oil in New Zealand. Until then, there are a wide range of beauty products on the market that include hemp seed oil, offering a nourishing alternative.

Beaut y focus

PINCH OF SALT S

alt is a successful, long-time treatment in the wellness industry. After featuring mostly in the background, the spotlight has been shifted to salt once again. While not the most glamorous of beauty ingredients, it certainly boasts a tonne of benefits for skin, body, hair and mind – it’s simply a matter of swapping out the salt shaker for salt rituals. Taking wellness to the next level, there is currently a huge movement with regards to halotherapy (salt therapy). Similar to spending time in the salty sea air (bliss), this alternative treatment literally involves breathing in salty air, surrounded by wall-to-wall Himalayan salt. Himalayan salt is also said to be very grounding, as it works on the 8 hertz, the Earth’s frequency, which allows clients to feel relaxed. There are claims that Himalayan salt can help treat respiratory conditions, such as asthma, chronic bronchitis and allergies. According to the Salt Therapy Association, salt therapy takes its origins from the salt mines and caves of Eastern Europe. As workers were mining the salt, micro-sized salt particles were being disbursed into the air. Additionally, there were ideal conditions below the earth’s surface where air pressure and circulation, along with humidity and temperature, affected the quality of the environment.

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In this environment, miners were receiving many natural health benefits by breathing in the salt particles. Considering that mining jobs were usually recognised as dangerous to life and health, salt miners rarely had any respiratory issues and also looked younger due to the great appearance of their skin. In recent times, this may be an area to tap into, especially with the Asthma Foundation New Zealand reporting that respiratory disease accounts for one in 10 overnight hospitalisations per year. If your salon is looking to branch out into holistic therapies, incorporating a salt room to your existing location is a great way to start. However, if an entire room dedicated to salt treatments isn’t feasible, there are options to create a salt wall, or alternatively, on a smaller scale, you could introduce a salt lamp to your treatment rooms. There are of course salt scrubs, which can be paired with a massage, or before a beautiful bronzing treatment. Salt features antiseptic qualities and when gently applied, can result in glowing, invigorated skin. Exfoliation is something that should be encouraged all year round, but especially before summer, prior to waxing season kicking in. Include this classic on your spa menu and introduce your clients to the benefits of salt therapy. They'll be sure to love the results.

PHOTOGRAPHY: Shutterstock

Salt therapy is on the rise. Sharleen Singh takes a look at this resurgence

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BEAUT Y wellness

Intermittent Fasting

verfed and undernourished is a phrase often used by doctors to describe patients struggling with today’s epidemic of chronic lifestyle diseases. Over the past fifty years, advice on nutrition and weight management has been calorie focused. Fad diets are repackaged, relabelled and recycled for each new generation: low fat, high protein, high fat, low carb. The results? Rates of diabetes and obesity in the community have smashed record highs. For those looking to dodge the bullet of chronic disease that will hit over eighty percent of us in a lifetime, we have to go back to our ancient roots and source clues from an age where we led a more natural life. Despite living in a modern world, we process information from the environment based on an ancient template of survival that is hard-wired into our DNA. This is driven by human cycles of feast and famine, the norm in past generations. Our ancestors had an efficient method of building body fat for hard times. They had a survival advantage and lived long enough to pass those genes to the next generation. These genetically elite members of the tribe were your ancestors. Fast forward to the 21st century. Most of us have grown up with the expectation that food will be available when and where we choose. The very pace of today’s lifestyle often relegates meal times to an inconvenience sandwiched

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in between life and ‘doing’. It has taken a generation to work out that calorie counting has been a dismal failure for weight management and health in general. How can we mimic a more natural relationship with food and start to nourish our bodies? What does the science say? The emerging research on intermittent fasting is impressive. This approach echoes a way of eating reminiscent of our ancient roots. It has proven benefits in weight management, daily energy, better sleep and a lower incidence of type 2 diabetes, heart disease and cancer. In its simplest form, intermittent fasting limits mealtimes to a shorter timeframe in the waking day. Meals are restricted to a window of 8 to 10 hours, creating an overnight fast of up to 16 hours. Intermittent fasting turns down the volume on unfavourable gene clusters that can express the symptoms of type 2 diabetes. The evidence for cancer reduction dates back over 100 years, but mainstream medicine is just waking up to this possibility. Intermittent fasting reduces a protein called Insulin-like Growth Factor that can drive cancer, and a 2012 study reported a lower breast cancer incidence with this dietary approach. Dr Michael Mosley has researched a variation on intermittent fasting that

shows similar health benefits. The Mosley method limits daily intake to 800 calories for two days out of every week. Both techniques work, and some use a hybrid of the two to achieve faster weight loss if that is the goal. The success of fasting makes sense on a fundamental level. Intermittent fasting is working with our genetically imprinted response to famine and feast. Fasting needs to be married with a commitment to choose more nutrient-rich food to get maximum health benefits. Zinc, vitamin D and magnesium deficiencies are commonplace today. Make sure you know what your blood test scores are for these important nutrients. The benefits of intermittent fasting are clear and proven. Use that reduced window of feeding to choose foods rich in the vitamins and minerals that drive energy pathways. Rediscover a relationship with nuts, seeds and natural fats. Changing a lifetime of habits and beliefs around food and mealtimes enables us to connect with a more natural way of nourishing our body, working with our genetic makeup to support optimal wellbeing. Dr Karen Coates is an integrative medical specialist in women’s health. She presents regular workshops on health and wellbeing at the Gwinganna Lifestyle retreat on the Gold Coast, Australia.

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock

From ancient roots to a modern day resurgence, Dr Karen Coates explains why intermittent fasting could be the way forward

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Beaut y wellness

Dream come true Success Coach, Annabelle Matson, shares the three most common ways we can block ourselves from taking action towards our dreams and how to overcome them. annabellematson

ow more than ever, the world needs conscious, heartcentered women who are claiming their desires and confidently committing to their dreams. Here’s the problem though: there can be a lot of ‘stuff’ that surfaces when we consider what we want and then step out to make it happen. It’s unlikely you start a day asking yourself: “How can I block myself today?”. Of course you want to give yourself the best chance to succeed, but in reality, we often shoot ourselves in the foot. Part of us really wants change, but the other part of us really wants to stay safe. This is what creates an internal conflict, which can often be quite subconscious. This internal conflict then shows up as one of these three blocks. Uncovering how you’re blocking yourself is absolutely key to being able to move forward and creating the success and happiness you dream about.

Perfectionism Perfectionism is not the same thing as striving for excellence. As a ‘recovering perfectionist’ myself, this block is near and dear to me! When we peel the layers back of perfectionism, we get to the core of what it’s really about: a fear of being judged by others. We try to do everything perfectly so that no one criticises us and we can finally feel good about ourselves. Being perfect is impossible (and not necessary) to get to where you want to be. What’s more important is that you show up for yourself and your dreams. 142 headway.net.nz

Journal on these questions: • What are you putting off because you feel like it’s not (or you’re not) perfect enough yet? • How would it feel if you gave yourself permission to just be yourself and show up as you are? • What does your “inner self” need to hear from you to make it easier to move forward imperfectly?

Procrastination When we procrastinate, we are usually trying to avoid some kind of discomfort. Usually, this is some kind of fear (when something feels big, scary and unknown). What’s ironic about procrastination is that by trying to avoid the discomfort, we end up creating more for ourselves. We end up prolonging the discomfort – the “stuckness”, the dissatisfaction, the stress of staying where we are by not taking action – so the cycle just continues. It’s really normal to step outside of your comfort zone and feel fear. There’s a part of your mind that craves the familiar and certainty, and will create all sorts of reasons why ‘you’re too busy’ or ‘there’s not enough time’ to take action on your dreams. Be aware when these stories show up and understand what it’s actually about (fear).

Journal on these questions: • In what ways am I not making time for myself and my dreams? • If I could pick one small action (that doesn’t feel too hard) to get into the flow of momentum, what would that be?

Overthinking We can waste so much time weighing up the pros and cons of decisions, and it becomes a way that we hold ourselves back from taking action on anything at all. To get out of ‘overwhelm’ and create clarity and certainty, you must take action. As you step out and take action, you’ll get feedback from your environment and you’ll come to realise you’re either totally on the right track, or something needs to shift. Either way, you’ve gained wisdom and clarity that would never have showed up if you stayed at step one. Remember, there are always more steps to take if you discover something isn’t as you expected. As long as you don’t give up, you’ll always be redirected to where you need to be. Give yourself permission to move forward and don’t judge your results. Instead, judge your success on how much you say “yes” to what you desire and then ironically, the outer success you’ve been seeking will follow you.

Journal on these questions: • When I look at all of the options that are available to me, which one feels the most exciting and aligned right now? • What would it look like to give myself permission to explore this direction without pressure or fear? For more free resources and information head to annabellematson.com

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BEAUT Y wellness

STRENGTHS The Essentialists, Lyndall Mitchell & Shannah Kennedy, share an excerpt from their book Shine theessentialists.com.au

hen you are in the flow, whatever you are doing becomes more effortless and enjoyable. It is the state that athletes enter when they are at the peak of their game, that artists and musicians experience when they are lost in creating. When you are in the state of flow, nothing exists except the doing. Time stops. You lose all sense of self. You are challenged to the upper limit of your skill - but not beyond. Today’s positive psychologists agree that creating more flow experiences in your life is a definite way to push your positivity higher. Sonja Lyubomirsky, author of 'The How of Happiness', says that flow is good for us because it is fulfilling, and the satisfaction you get from this is lasting and reinforces our confidence. “The experience of flow,” Lyubomirsky writes, “leads us to be involved in life (rather than be alienated from it), to enjoy activities (rather than to find them dreary), to have a sense of control (rather than helplessness), and to feel a strong sense of self (rather than unworthiness). All these factors imbue life with meaning and enhance it with richness, intensity and a higher level of happiness.” Your strengths are generally learned and shaped by your environment, your experiences and the values with which

you identify and choose to live by. We all have a collection of strengths that make up your unique architecture and getting to know your strengths is a way of unlocking the confident and competent part of you that thrives in high flow. If you love decorating, shopping for new outfits, and changing around rooms often, your strength may be creativity, detail, and a good appreciation for beauty. If you love going through new ideas with people, discussing plans and getting things done, your strength may be relationships, planning, strategic thinking. There are many studies available supporting the concept that identifying and living in alignment with your strengths (e.g. utilising them in a constructive way) can result in many benefits for an individual’s wellbeing and personal experience of life. Current research indicates that you are most likely to value a job, relationship, hobby or institution that aligns with your core signature strengths and allows you to regularly utilise them. In fact, research indicates that one of the best ways to boost your long-term happiness is to use your strengths in new ways and situations, rather than focusing on your weaknesses. The use of strengths and virtues is therefore well in keeping with the philosophy of positive psychology: to focus on the positive in your life, not the negative.

“The good life is using your signature strengths every day to produce authentic happiness and abundant gratification” - Martin Seligman

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name here name here

HOW TO: In order to find out your strengths, simply go online to the free scientifically-validated strengths profile test at viame.org. This is a list of questions that will then calculate your top 24 strengths.

5 reasons to contemplate your own strengths 1. Saves you time. Finding out what you are good at will allow you to save time on having to re-learn a skill or job. You may not be looking to study or research other career options, but if you are, knowing which talents or skills you have will help you streamline your choices right away. 2. Allows you to grow. Sitting down and writing down what you are strong at, or what you can excel at, can help you reach out and aim even higher than ever before. You can achieve so much more than you thought you could when you have clarity.

3. Boosts your self-confidence. Finding out what your strong points are, no matter what they are, will definitely give you a boost in self-confidence. When we feel confident, we can achieve so much more and live wholeheartedly.

4. Makes you a happier person. When you feel good about yourself, you know you can do anything you set your mind to. Deep inside, knowing you have a skill set that will give you an edge will definitely allow you to be a happier and more joyful person.

5. You can be an inspiration for others. When you have taken the time to check and analyse your strengths, you can now use that knowledge to be an inspiration and a guide for others. You can be the light at the end of the tunnel for others.

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Strength activation 1. Focus on your top 5 strengths. The best way to do this is to reflect on â&#x20AC;&#x153;defining momentsâ&#x20AC;? in your career, relationship, your life. Times when you felt particularly engaged, inspired and you were truly at your peak.

PHOTOGRAPHY Shutterstock and supplied

2. Build new skills that focus on your strengths and will help you achieve your goals. If creativity is one of your strengths, how can you use this strength daily? Think outside the square for ways to tap into this skill set you already have. 3. Like most things in life balance is optimum. Be aware that every strength has a shadow side when it is overplayed. Judgement can be a wonderful strength to help you make the best decisions. However, it can also go into being overplayed when you start to judge yourself harshly and then everyone around you. 4. When you are finding something challenging, think of your strengths and how you can use that skill right now to make the next step easier. Remember that most success is not built overnight.

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Women of Influence by Sharleen Singh

O @eviekemp

n a rainy Thursday morning, I made my way to the iconic Mercury Theatre, in anticipation of the Women of Influence Speaker Series Auckland event, presented by Westpac and Stuff. With the awards gala running for its seventh year (winners announced on October 24th), the speaker series are a new addition to the programme, albeit a welcome one judging by the five sold-out events across the country. Ali Mau was our MC for the morning, sharing her industry experiences, both good and bad. Kanoa Lloyd, TV anchor of The Project, was our first speaker. Lloyd focused on the importance of your roots, delving into her emotional trip to Chicago to visit a wharenui from her hometown, housed in an American museum. Not a dry eye in the house. Next up was a panel featuring Jess Quinn, health and wellbeing advocate, Evie Kemp, interior designer, and Jess Daniell, food guru. Each of these incredible women shared their experiences: from Jess Quinn starting a petition that requires disclosing when an image has been Photoshopped, to the power of Instagram for Evie Kempâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s business, through to Jess Daniellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s success in running The Underground Kitchen. The event concluded with words of wisdom from Karen Walker, who spoke about creativity, individuality and resilience, in an ever-changing world. I took a moment to soak in the atmosphere afterwards. An excited buzz, from high school kids, to professionals young and mature, and a scattering of men, all connected by an empowering, inspiring, and impactful event.

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