150 Years of Manistee History

1869-2019

manistee

years of

150

history

Celebrating Manistee’s Sesquicentennial A Special Supplement to

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Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019

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Manistee Sesquicentennial | April 2019

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PRELUDE

INTRO

INDEX

One-hundred fifty years ... how exactly can you define 15 decades of history within roughly 30 pages and not leave something out?

The short answer ... you can’t, simply because there is too much to cover in such a small space.

That’s what our (the museum’s and the News Advocate’s) line of thinking was when we were coming up with ideas of exactly how to put this special section, commemorating Manistee’s sesquicentennial, together.

To this end, we decided to divide the city up into four categories; not the original four wards, mind you, but four areas whose imaginary boundaries can probably be drawn by anyone who has lived in Manistee for a significant amount of time.

The four areas we came up with were: “The Northside”, “The Business District”, “The Hill Area and A Little Below” and “The Maxwelltown Area.” Two of the areas have articles (one a feature, the other an oral history) written about an aspect of their respective area’s history with the other two areas being more pictorial driven. Each area also has an additional feature written by the staff of the Manistee News Advocate.

In addition, a listing of other historical aspects (schools, churches, major architecture still standing and early influential businessmen) of the aforementioned areas also accompanies each of their specific sections.

On this same page, former museum director Steve Harold has written an introduction for this special section, and I couldn’t have been happier to have him do so. Steve took over as the director of the Manistee County Historical Museum in March 1976 and in his 35 years as the official city historian, Steve has not only become an encyclopedia of Manistee’s history, but he has also written roughly 2,300 articles on the area’s history for the Manistee News Advocate.

Likewise, I have written roughly 500 articles; coupled with Steve’s writings, that’s an exhaustive history on the Manistee area. But even after all that time ... there is still so much more to cover.

So while this is not as in-depth of a history as many of our writings are (nor is it meant to be) it does exemplify the variety of our city’s rich, abundant and diverse history.

We hope you enjoy it.

Manistee exists because of its location at a transportation intersection: the river with its 400 miles of navigable water meets Lake Michigan with thousands of miles of navigable water. Thus, Native Americans were familiar with the place and utilized the resources of both the river and lakes.

In 1840, industrialists from Quebec, the Stronachs, explored the shores of Lake Michigan and selected Manistee as the best place to set up a water powered sawmill with abundant adjacent old growth pine trees. The next year, they arrived back in Manistee and set up that sawmill. By the Civil War there were six sawmills and a population of over a thousand.

In the aftermath of the war, thousands of people sought new farms and homes in the great American West creating intense demand for building material. Numerous saw and shingle mills developed at that time bringing a large skilled workforce to Manistee to operate these mills. With this rapid growth which included thousands of European immigrants, Manistee became one of the 10 largest cities in Michigan.

As timber resources diminished, several large and many small industries emerged utilizing the abundant skilled labor force. Several of these industries have continued until today providing substantial payrolls for a large number of people.

Manistee’s retail climate started with company stores at each of the mills and went on to large quality retailers providing merchandise of every kind. In the last half century, local retailers have faced the same challenges as other communities, as the very business of retailing has changed substantially.

Forty years ago a community-wide study recognized architecture and natural resources as the most marketable items to increase tourism in the area. This resulted in recognition of both residential and commercial Victorian buildings and appreciation of them from visitors throughout Michigan. A second factor was the development of a second major draw weekend in early December, the Old Christmas Weekend.

As we look forward to the future, it is continually important to look at the past. What we have learned transforms into what we can learn.

How it all began . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Mark Fedder Executive Director Manistee County Historical Museum

Steve Harold Manistee County Historical Museum

The Northside – Fifth Avenue Beach area. . . . . . . . . 6 The Northside – Memories . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 The Northside – Memorial Drive. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 Business District – Voices of the past. . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 Business District – River Street. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 Business District – Businesses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 The Hill Area – Canfield & Wheeler mansions. . . . . . 22 The Hill Area – Jefferson Elementary. . . . . . . . . . . . . 25 The Hill Area – Development of Manistee. . . . . . . . . 27 Maxwelltown Area – According to Ray . . . . . . . . . . . 30 Maxwelltown Area – Mercy Hospital. . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 Maxwelltown Area – Businesses. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 Looking to the future. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37 Celebrating the sesquicentennial . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

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Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019

Looking east from First Street, circa 1868

A city's humble beginnings

Silas Overpack wheels transported the logs out of the woods where cranes from that time would lift them on to narrow gauge railroads for shipment to the sawmill.

Lumberjacks roll logs off a railroad car at the sawmill so they can be processed into lumber.

Every story has a beginning, and Manistee is no different. However, to tell the story of the City of Manistee's "creation," one must go back even before the beginning.

In 1841, the first permanent Caucasian settlement arrived in the area, which included the Stronach family, John (father), Adam (son) and 15 other men.

A camp was built, a road was cut and a dam constructed. The settlement was located in the area around the former Michigan State Police Post.

The first sawmill was started, which the Stronach family then sold in 1845 and moved to set up operations in the area of today’s Stronach Township.

Over the next 10 years, more people began to arrive in Manistee, like Joseph Smith, William Ward, Roswell and John Canfield, the Finan Brothers, William Magill, H.L. Brown (Brown Township was named after him), Hugh McGuinneas and Samuel Potter.

“At this stage of our history the mills were run night and day. The population consisted almost entirely of men.

A pioneer returning from a trip to Chicago brought with him two young ladies. At the first appearance of the vessel outside, all work was suspended at the mouth of the

river. Even the night hands, snugly sleeping in the board house, were woken up from their slumbers and apprised of the great event. When the boat touched the landing every one in the little hamlet was there to “feast their eyes” on the newcomers.” ATTRIBUTION Over the next decade, as more women came to Manistee, as more jobs became available and there was a navigable river channel, the population grew immensely.

By 1851, the area of today’s Manistee County was attached to Oceana County and then to Grand Traverse in 1853 via railroad.

In early 1855 a meeting was held about organizing a county, notable figures such as D.L. Filer, Joseph Smith, L.G. Smith, H.L. Brown and H.S. Udell were in attendance. In 1855, Manistee County was established, and the county was divided into three townships: Manistee, Stronach and Brown.

In 1866, the Village of Manistee was booming with lumber industry, which included logging, sawmills and shipping. There was an active river channel and harbor, and infrastructure. The population had reached 1,600.

The village had 15 sawmills; 11 stores; seven blacksmith shops; two churches; one Union School building

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Byron M. Cutcheon Logs fill Manistee Lake in the vicinity of the Louis Sands sawmill, circa 1890s. of brick; one sash, door and blind factory; several lath and picket mills, nine docks and one newspaper.

Over the next three years, the population grew threefold to 3,300.

An informal meeting of citizens was held at the office of the county clerk on Jan. 8, 1869, to begin the procedures to secure a city charter.

After going to the state legislature, a charter was granted on March 4, 1869.

After the first charter election was held on March 15 of that year, a mayor was elected as were alderman for the city’s (then) four wards.

George Robinson was named the city's first mayor; Jeremiah L. Taylor, recorder; Michael Fay, treasurer; L.S. Johnson, marshal; S.S. Conover, justice of the peace.

The city was divided into four wards, the first ward was north of the river, the second ward was west of Maple Street, the third (the smallest) east of Maple north of a portion of Third Street over to the current U.S. 31 then north of First Street, the fourth ward was everything south of that and east of Maple Street.

The city elected two alderman per ward.

Charles Danforth moved to Manistee in the 1840s from New York. Frank McCormick moved to Manistee in the 1850s from New Jersey. The pair were the city's first aldermen for the first ward.

Born in Ireland, Bernard Milmoe was a sawmill owner. He, along with Byron M. Cutcheon, were elected aldermen of the second ward. Cutcheon went on to become a great historian for the city. He was instrumental in the city's rebuilding after the Great Fire and was later awarded the Congressional Medal of Honor.

For the third ward, residents elected Joseph Baur and Antoine Cartier. Baur was a major businessman, and constructed the Baur Block and the Hotel Northern.

Cartier was born in Quebec in 1838 and lived in Chicago before coming in Manistee. He later became mayor of Ludington where he oversaw the paving of city streets and was a bank president.

Stephen W. Hopkins and Stephen Norman were elected to represent the fourth ward. Hopkins was a lumber manufacturer, and Hopkins

Street is named for him. Norman, originally from Canada, was a carpenter.

From the city’s “founding fathers” and first aldermen in 1869 to today’s city council, a lot has changed in 150 years.

But in some ways, a lot has stayed the same. Many of the same buildings are still standing, giving our downtown the Victorian look for which its known. The City of Manistee’s story is far from over; who knows what the next 150 years might bring!

Happy 150th Birthday Manistee! from the Manistee ISD Proudly serving Manistee County schools

Located in Manistee County, the Manistee Intermediate School District is a regional service agency which provides instructional and administrative services to four public school districts, two public academies and two non-public schools.

We serve the community by helping all learners reach their full potential.

The Manistee Intermediate School District proudly services the school districts of: • Bear Lake Schools • Kaleva Norman Dickson Schools • Manistee Area Public Schools • Onekama Consolidated Schools • Manistee Catholic Central • Trinity Lutheran Schools • Casman Academy • Michigan Great Lakes Virtual Academy The ISD also works in consortium with many of the local service agencies to provide valuable opportunities for the children of Manistee County.

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Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019

SCHOOLS

Fifth Avenue Beach area has played vital role in the city’s history First Ward School (renamed Washington School) Location: Corner of Washington & Lincoln streets Constructed: 1870

Fifth Ward School (renamed McKinley School) Location: Formerly located on the corner of Fourth Avenue & Fremont Street Constructed: 1890 Washington School Location: Formerly located at 429 Ford St. Dedicated: 1936

CHURCHES

BY MARK FEDDER & STEVE HAROLD Manistee County Historical Museum

As the seasons come and go at the museum, it can be interesting to note the number of visitors who make mention of their fond memories of Fifth Avenue Beach.

These types of recollections often run the gamut from: “That’s where I learned to swim,” or “My dad was stationed there in the Coast Guard”.

Sometimes memories of the fishing opportunities also come up with, “We used to go fishing all the time on the pier and on really hot days we would jump off the pier.” Someone else might recall the old shelter house and the family members that were involved with the Northside Improvement Association.

While the list of memories goes on and on, the underlying truth is always crystal clear: that the area in and around Fifth Avenue Beach has not only played a vital role within the city itself but also in the lives of the thousands of residents who have called Manistee home and those who continue to do so.

Bathers enjoy Fifth Avenue Beach.

UNITED STATES LIFE SAVING STATION/ UNITED STATES COAST GUARD

St. Mary’s Church Location: Corner of Washington and Ford streets Constructed: 1862 St. Mary’s Church Location: St. Mary’s Parkway Dedicated: 1963 Northside Mission Church Location: Second Avenue Established: 1891

MAJOR INDUSTRY

Manistee Manufacturing Company Location: 80-86 Washington St. Established: 1888 Manufacturer of bedroom suites of elm and oak and in later years added a line of oak buffets and sideboards.

After business diminished, the complex later became used as a furniture store/showroom.

Century Boat Initial location: Sixth Avenue Established: 1929 A manufacturer of outboard motor boards, the Northside was the original location of the boat factory that would later employ many people and whose craftsmanship became synonymous with Manistee. The plant eventually spread out and moved its factories into other buildings in Manistee before phasing out operations in 1986.

Following a series of disastrous marine accidents around 1870, the United States decided to provide trained, professional crews to man lifeboats for the sole purpose of rescuing shipwrecked sailors. Thus, the United States Life Saving Service was formed and made its debut on the Northside of Manistee in 1879.

This special service was originally housed in a large boathouse near the location of the present Coast Guard Station.

Construction of the new building, described as two stories high and 24 feet by 44 feet, progressed throughout the summer of 1879. The main floor provided a single, large room to house both men and surf boats with an incline to the river to provide for ease in launching. A door on the back of the building allowed a boat to be drawn out on wagons and taken over land to shipwrecks when necessary. The second floor of the boat house included three large rooms which served as a mess room, keeper’s room and a room for the crew.

In January 1915, Congress merged their Revenue Cutter Service with the United States Life Saving Service thus forming the United States Coast Guard.

Throughout their history in Manistee, the Life Saving Service and Coast Guard have played a big role as their continued service to the port city has guided countless vessels to safety.

In 1995, the federal government was closing several Coast Guard stations in the country and with the future of Manistee’s station in question, residents banded together to lobby the government to “Save Our Station.” Together with state officials, the community’s efforts were fruitful and the station remained. In 2004, a new 14,000 square foot building for the Coast Guard was dedicated right near Fifth Avenue Beach in the same area where they’ve been located for well over a century.

FIFTH AVENUE DRIVE-TO-THE-LAKE

As more people put aside their horse and buggy and decided to begin operating the new, modern man-made creation of the automobile, by the mid1910s, country roads and city streets

The United States Coast Guard Station circa 1940s. The Life Saving Service/Coast Guard have been an integral part to the city and the Northside since the late 1870s. in turn began to see more traffic. This in turn, forced municipalities and the powers that be to widen or “open” up more of the hard-to-reach areas of the city and county that had not been very accessible to automobiles.

To take advantage of the potential for a popular place in the community to cool off in the summer, not to mention the burgeoning summer recreation market, in the spring of 1915 the city commission agreed to extend Fifth Avenue all the way to Lake Michigan thus allowing for more convenient access to the beach.

Prior to approval of the street extension, entrance to the beach off of Fifth Avenue was very narrow as the area was described in the Manistee News Advocate as having, “A hill with sand so soft that any attempt by a vehicle to pass over it would prove futile.”

Likewise it was also written that the hill, “… shut off passage to the lake shore” and that, “even pedestrians found it strenuous to make their way over the hill.”

By April of that year, City Manager Charles E. Ruger announced to the commission that a rudimentary driveway to the lakeshore was in the process of being completed and in charge of the task was Superintendent of Streets John Shields.

The process of attempting to extend the road was not an easy one for Shields and his crew who had to remove dozens of tree stumps, many of which were

buried in the sand. In addition, heaps of sand were also taken away and hundreds of loads of ashes that had been collected around town during the spring clean-up campaign were spread along the entire roadway in order to allow for more traction as well as to make the dirt street more compact.

However by the spring of 1915, the road was complete.

Once the summer season got underway, the drive to Lake Michigan became exceedingly popular as drivers and hundreds of beach-goers began to traverse the newly constructed road a little too much in turn making the road deteriorate and, with rain, portions of the road began to wash away. Soon after, the road was reconstructed.

With the immense popularity of the beach, steps were taken to construct facilities that would allow beach-goers various amenities in order to have a better experience. To this end, later that summer the city commission decided to move forward with constructing numerous bathhouses with the main purpose of having a place for people to change into their bathing suits. Roughly a month later, the bathhouses were put in place.

With the closing of the summer season of 1915 more steps were put into place by the city the following year in order to provide a better beach-going experience. Among the improvements were the construction of more bathhouses, a better and more leveled drive

Manistee Sesquicentennial | April 2019

7 (enhanced by John Shields and crew), a concession stand, a landscaped park for the beach area and a caretaker. Additionally, during that spring, residents along Fifth Avenue planted trees on their front lawns and went to great lengths in order to improve the appearance of the drive to the lake.

For several years, Fifth Avenue Beach remained the city’s only bathing beach until 1920 when First Street was made more accessible to motorists, which eventually led to people having a choice as to which beach they wanted to utilize.

Fifth Avenue Drive-to-the-Lake remained the main access road to the Northside beach for roughly 80 years.

Ultimately, the street was cut off and the primary entrance to the beach was moved in order to make space for the channel now used by Harbor Village.

Sand Industry Over the decades, the Northside became a haven for several different sand companies that partnered with the city to alleviate the “sand problem” that was especially apparent in that portion of the city. Thus by the mid-20th century, Sand Products was the remaining company with people of a certain age often recalling the line of conveyor belts in and around the Man Made Lake area.

EARLY INFLUENTIAL PEOPLE

Northside Improvement Association

The Manistee North Pierhead Lighthouse circa 1940.

This structure was constructed on the Fifth Avenue Beach pier in 1927.

In April of 1931, a committee of like-minded residents from the city’s Northside met for purposes of raising money to purchase playground equipment for Fifth Avenue Beach. After going above their initial goal, the group (calling themselves the Northside Playground Fund) was able to purchase equipment and have the city install it by late June of that year.

One year later, the group renamed themselves the Northside Improvement Association and with an increased membership began staging fundraisers, benefits and parties so that they could tend to other other projects such as a cinder road and loop drive at the beach in 1932.

The installation of floodlights came in 1933. Restrooms were constructed at the beach in 1934.

In 1935 the group oversaw the construction of a unique log cabin-like building that would be used as a shelter house for Fifth Avenue Beach for several decades and would go on to become a

Rain Location: Armory Youth Project building at 555 First St.

The 2019

Howard D. Bradford A local furniture maker and undertaker who arrived in Manistee County in 1865. He would later take over the family business on River Street and settle into a unique home located at 232 Fifth Ave. J.H. McAnley A well-known Northside businessman, who along with his father, helped pioneer the business interests of Washington Street. McAnley owned various businesses and properties through the Northside including a blacksmith shop, a grocery store, a meat market and a hotel.

Happy 150th Birthday Manistee!

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R&B, Motown and Soul.

July 23 | Planet D Nonet The Midwest's premier, swinging, little big band.

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August 20 | Cheryl Hodge Group Blues, Jazz, R&B August 27 | Sunset Groove Energetic Blues, Rock/R&B

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Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019 Fabian Melitzer A well-regarded, local politician of sorts, Melitzer immigrated to the United States in the 1850s and a few years later found his way to Manistee. He was an early businessman and served on a variety of boards and commissions.

REMAINING NOTABLE ARCHITECTURE

St. Mary’s of Mt. Carmel Shrine (today’s Wagoner Center) Location: 260 St. Mary’s Parkway

Hotel Northern Location: 143-151 Washington St. Originally called The Pacific House, this structure (which went by several different names) was constructed through the efforts of local businessman Joseph Baur.

Over the years, many businesses have opened their doors as a part of the 1880s structure which continues to stand today.

North Channel Brewing Co. Location: 86 Washington St. After extensive renovations, the remaining structures that were once home to the Manistee Manufacturing Company are today occupied by the North Channel Brewing Co. which opened in late 2017.

long-standing icon on the Northside for several years.

Over the decades the NIA would go on to beautify the Northside with countless projects until becoming defunct near the turn of the 21st century.

MANISTEE NORTH PIERHEAD LIGHTHOUSE

With the need for a light to guide vessels safely into the harbor, the current North Pierhead Lighthouse is the fourth light to adorn the city since 1869.

That year, a one and a half story building with a light on a short tower at the south end of the roof was established on the north bank of the Manistee River several hundred feet from Lake Michigan.

This lighthouse burned in the Great Fire and was replaced in 1872 by a similar structure. A light was displayed atop this building for about 10 years after which the building continued to house a light keeper. It was then sold and moved to its present location on Second Avenue.

In 1875 a light was established at the end of the south pier in a skeletal tower with a wood catwalk extending to shore.

This light was moved to the north pier in 1894 shortly after a fog signal had been added.

In 1926, a slightly used round tower was brought up from Chicago and set up atop a new base. As such, a steel tower was constructed and the top portion of the lighthouse essentially fastened on top of it. The Manistee North Pierhead Light is listed on the National Register of Historic Places and is a tapering steel cylindrical tower, 38 feet tall with a six sided eight foot lantern atop. The light is at the end of a U.S. Army Corps of Engineers 1,300 foot concrete pier approximately a quarter mile from the shoreline.

After being overseen by the U.S. Lighthouse service for many decades and attended to by the U.S. Coast Guard starting in 1939, ownership of the light was transferred from the Department of the Interior to the City of Manistee and the Manistee County Historical Museum in a ceremony at Fifth Avenue Beach on June 30, 2011.

Prior to that, the museum made the application to the United States Department of the Interior National Park Service to transfer the decommissioned lighthouse to the city. A component of the application was a Concession Agreement with the Manistee County Historical Museum. The museum acts as a steward for the lighthouse and will be in charge of the Restoration Project.

The summer of 2016 saw the Manistee North Pierhead Lighthouse refreshed with a new sheen of white paint where it will continue to be a beacon for vessels

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The lighthouse and catwalk off the Fifth Avenue Beach pier circa early 1910s.

Members of the Northside Improvement Association (N.I.A.) pose for a picture inside the newly completed shelter house at Fifth Avenue Beach. Some of the N.I.A. members at the time included (front row, left to right) Fred Whidden, Jon Voights, William Lidtke, Art Mueckler; (back row) Harry Andersen, Harvey Johnson, LaVerne Williams, George Kruse, Rylence Lorenz and Harry Zeller. in and out of the harbor as well as for residents and visitors of the City of Manistee. The museum is continuing to collect donations for the painting and restoration of the interior of the lighthouse.

CATWALK The lighthouse in Manistee has one of the four remaining catwalks on Lake Michigan. The exact date of the catwalk is difficult to trace as it was worked on several different times over the years from a simple wooden structure.

MAN MADE LAKE Created by sand mining on the Northside, this lake was breached by Lake Michigan waves which threatened to swallow the lake. It was preserved by

Harbor Village in their early construction process.

CONDOS AND HARBOR VILLAGE Fifth Avenue Drive-to-the-Lake remained the main access road to the Northside beach for roughly 80 years.

In the late 1980s/early 1990s, long range meetings were held in the community to decide what could be done with the valuable property along the Northside lakefront. Ultimately, higher income housing condominiums and a marina were developed for the area near the lake shore and Harbor Village was born.

Ultimately, Fifth Avenue was cut off and the primary entrance to the beach was moved in order to make space for the channel used by the development.

Happy 150th Manistee!

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Manistee Sesquicentennial | April 2019

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Childhood memories of the Northside

By KEN GRABOWSKI Associate Editor

Everybody has somewhere they call home, and for me that has been Manistee.

While the City of Manistee is celebrating its sesquicentennial this year it also is marking a special occasion for the Grabowski family when it comes to living on the city’s Northside and, more specific, on First Avenue. Someone in my family has resided on that street for about 100 of the city’s 150 years of incorporation.

It all started with my grandparents, John and Myrtle, who owned a home on the west end of First Avenue, and continued with my parents Wilfred and Marjorie many years later on the east end of the street.

After both of my parents died, I bought their house, and the tradition continues to this day about 100 years later.

So to say that I am familiar with the city’s Northside is a major understatement.

The memories began at the age of 5 in 1961 when I walked to the Washington School two and a half blocks away from our house. Washington School was the old-time neighborhood school that I attended from kindergarten to sixth grade. Neighborhood schools were different than what ex-

ists today. You not only knew everyone in school, you would play with them at the end of the day and over the summer.

The big two-story school that was built in the 1930s was straight out of that era with steam radiators that hissed in the cold months of winter to those old square, wooden backboards holding up rims that probably saw a couple million basketballs go through them over the years.

The Northside as a whole was much different than today. The area near the beach — that includes the industrial park and condominiums today — was once some of the most majestic sand dunes you could imagine, one rolling hill on top of another.

They were the perfect playground for some adventurous youngsters in the 1960s like myself.

The dunes were still huge at that time and to youngsters our age, they seemed even bigger. Sand was already being removed by Sand Products with giant Caterpillar trucklike machines that hauled the sand back from where the water tower exists today.

They seemed enormous, with silly names painted on the front of them like Barney Google, Waltzie Matilda and Tit Willow. They would drive down sand/clay roads created Well-known local artist and grocer, Joseph Trevitts stands with his wife just for them where the sand outside their shop which was located inside the Hotel Northern complex.

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Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019

An aerial view of St. Mary of Mount Carmel Shrine taken in 1963 that shows the conveyor belt for the sand company alleviating the sand from near the Man Made Lake area. was piled high at the foot of a conveyor belt system near where the new Wagoner Center (former St. Mary’s Church) is today.

The sand would be sifted low underground through screens and then fed onto the conveyor belt system to the area over on the Manistee River Channel by Fifth Avenue Beach where freighters would come in to pick it up for use in the glass industry.

I can remember more than once sneaking down with friends in the lower levels of the sifting tunnel where there was a well with some of the coldest water you could ever taste on a hot summer day.

We also would get daring at times, as there was a small bridge over the conveyor belts just about where the parking lot for Man Made Lake exists today. We would (stupidly in today’s thought process) leap aboard the conveyor belts for a wild ride before jumping off.

The sand removal also created some ponds filled with frogs that we loved to shoot at in the summer with our BB guns. Then after a hard day of hunting frogs, we would wander over to a never ceasing spring along the shores of Lake Michigan that we called Indians Springs to grab a drink of water.

Rolling sand hills also lined the area behind the houses located on the avenues where Harbor Village is now located, and over time in the 1960s and 1970s it was all removed. Sand Products also created Man Made Lake mining sand out of the ground, and for many years it was the

choice spot to swim because of the warm water.

When construction on St. Mary’s Church began in the early 1960s it gained notoriety even before it was finished.

The long sloping roof became the center of attention early on in the construction phase when a big storm blew down the wooden roof beams. For years they lay behind the church where kids and adults alike would talk about the storm that caused them to come down.

If the Northside ever had a tourist attraction in the past 150 years, it was St. Mary’s Church. People would come from all over to view the unique structure and to tour it in the early years.

The church bells were also notable to Northside residents.

They would play at various times during the day and every day at noon and 6 p.m.

We would often hear them right across the street at Duffy Park where kids’ baseball and softball games were played almost non-stop in those days.

For many of us, the church bells meant it was time to stop the game and start running for home because lunch or dinner was on the table waiting for us. We didn’t need our parents to come looking for us, as the bells meant it was meal time.

There are many other long gone businesses that lined Washington Street for many years.

One of those was Noud Lumber Company that sat where a large empty lot now sits just to the north and south of Third Avenue Hill. That

lumber company dates back well to the start of the city 150 years ago. After the last family member operating it passed away, it was eventually torn down.

There were times in our youth when we would pull ourselves up on the roof of the building and sneak up for a peak at Washington Street on a hot summer night — nothing exciting about it other than the adventure.

Another family operated lumber yard that existed from Manistee’s earliest days, and still is going today, is Olsen Lumber Company on Harrison Street. Several generations of the family have run that business..

The Hotel Northern, which still sits on Washington Street, was much different in the 1960s. The only difference now from then was businesses occupied the entire structure.

From north to south was a bakery and right next door was the Trevitts Store run by noted artist Joseph Trevitts and his wife, Teena. Although his paintings won national acclaim, to us kids the Trevitt’s were just a nice whitehaired old couple who had an old fashioned penny candy counter.

The memories are strong of my mother giving me a shiny nickle and coming back with a little bag of penny candy including some great two for one cent deals (try finding that today). They also had a great comic book display that wide-eyed kids were always looking at for the latest Superman, Sgt. Fury or Spiderman comics. It was a kid’s haven.

Sand Products Company once mined sand on the Northside.

Washington School, formerly located on Ford Street, was dedicated in January 1936.

Manistee Sesquicentennial | April 2019 Next to the Trevitts’ was a barbershop run by Joe Novotney. He offered haircuts of all styles as long you wanted a brushcut that made us all look balder than I do today.

Right after that was the Hotel Northern Bar and in the upper floors was a pay-by-theweek hotel that drew in, shall we say, some of Manistee’s more imaginative residents.

It was not uncommon in the winter months to see wooden boxes on the window sills filled with food that the occupants would put out there to keep cold.

Just to the south were two stores with the building on the corner still at Taylor and Washington streets home to Lewis Meat Market. Across the street was Justman Plumbing in a building now long gone.

Another small building that no longer exits and drew in lots of people was Shorty’s Takeout, run by Shorty Yost and then Richard Mucha after him. They had a unique large cooler where all the beer and pop was stored, and you had to ask for it instead of picking it out yourself.

It was also a place where you could ask for 25 cents worth of bologna that they would slice up from a loaf and you would get same amount you now pay $5 for in today’s world.

Further down the street where the Dial A Ride garage is located was Greve’s Gulf Station. Directly across the street, Joe Bassarab was sell-

ing Cadillac cars to Manistee’s finest, and everyone knew you needed to “See Joe to Save Dough.”

At the corner of Washington Street and Fifth Avenue in the current parking area for the North Channel Brewing Co. was Groves Barbershop (yes, we had two barbershops and two lumber yards on the Northside, believe it or not).

The brewery and the condos located on the Manistee River Channel sit where the Manistee Manufacturing Company was located, which made beautiful furniture including the cherry wood chest of drawers in my current bedroom.

And as for Century Terrace, where do you think the name came from? The famous Century Boats had a big boat factory on the river and right next door was Fortier Upholstery on Sixth Avenue.

Further down the river channel, where the Shipwatch Condominiums are now located, was Bjorkquist Brothers commercial fishing.

It was a thrill to see their old fashioned fishing tug tied to the big dock and the fish nets drying on the drying racks.

Simply incredible memories of that area still resonate in my mind as well as the smell of smoked chubs (a type of fish) being processed in their smokers.

When you continued down Fifth Avenue it ran down to the beach, and in my youth and teens it was one half of the route teens drove around

11 and around on a summer or Saturday night that included First Street and Fifth Avenue beaches, and River Street.

To see the transformation of Fifth Avenue Beach was quite remarkable as it used to be the big, old white buildings of the U.S. Coast Guard that transformed into a smaller white one and the brick structure that exists today.

Even the pier changed from the sloping one that angled down from the catwalk to the one that exists today. People went from fishing with cane poles for perch to landing the big salmon in the 1960s.

There was the log cabin building of the Northside Improvement Association right across the street from the Coast Guard Station where generations of birthday, anniversary, picnics and family reunions were held over the years. It was a unique gathering place that was rented out to several generations of families.

That is what is unique to me about the Northside.

People may see what exists today, but for me what is laid right behind those images in my mind are the ones of the Northside of the past where I grew up more than a half century ago.

It was a whole different world, but a great place to grow up and an even greater one to be a kid.

The shelter house on Fifth Avenue Beach constructed by the Northside Improvement Association. The shelter house was a main stay on Fifth Avenue Beach for decades.

The Hotel Northern was home to many businesses over the years. The now vacant building continues to stand on Washington Street.

Happy 150th Birthday Manistee!

The Benzie Manistee Snowbirds are happy to have been a part of the Manistee community for the last 50+ years.

We look forward to many more years of snowmobiling adventures.

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Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019

The hackberry trees of Memorial Drive honor soldiers

BY MARK FEDDER Manistee County Historical Museum Historical Museum Much like how the contours of a particular section of road can meander and curve, the beauty of a tree is that it can take on a multitude of shapes, sizes, and, in many cases, meanings.

A year after World War II ended, the City of Manistee dedicated a segment of road in memory of the soldiers who died serving their country. After several years the call went out to beautify the street to further honor the soldiers, and the result was a picturesque memorial that has helped preserve their memory for generations.

After World War II, people around the world were still attempting to pick up the proverbial pieces both physically and emotionally.

As the totals of those who had passed away increased, countless towns honored those who gave their lives in the war by dedicating a memorial to their sacrifice.

In summer of 1946, it was announced that a section of unpaved road located on the north side of the Manistee River would officially be dedicated to the memory of those from Manistee County who passed away in service to their country during World War II. An article published in the Manistee News Advocate on July 3, 1946, provides details surrounding the dedication of the new drive, to be called Memorial Drive.

“At the completion of the main parade of the Forest Festival tomorrow, the shore drive on the north side of River St., between Washington and Cleveland streets, will be officially dedicated as a memorial to the Manistee County veterans who lost their lives in World War II.

An aerial of view of Memorial Drive in August, 1963.

“It had been hoped that the road could have been paved and landscaped before it was officially dedicated, but veteran groups in the community felt that this was the time for the dedication ceremony.

“The dedication ceremony will be under the direction of Harold Bates, chairman of the County Veteran’s Council. The dedication ceremony will be brief, with the Manistee Iron Works Band furnishing the music

and the Rev. Lewis Tillson of Cadillac, former Marine Corps chaplain, the principal speaker.”

With Memorial Drive officially dedicated, projects were sought to beautify the drive and to make the area

around it more attractive.

In the spring of 1949, the Northside Improvement Association (N.I.A.) took it upon themselves to make the drive “easier on the eye” and planted two dozen hackberry trees along the section

Happy 150th Manistee!

PROUD TO BE SERVING OUR COMMUNITY SINCE 1975

“Our building long before it became Veach & Allen.

Stop in and see if you can spot the original meat coolers from back when it was a grocery store.”

Eye Care For All Ages!

Dr. John E. Veach, O.D. Dr. Brian Allen, O.D

384 1st St. Manistee, MI

“your neighborhood eye doctors”

723-9911

Manistee Sesquicentennial | April 2019

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as well as accompanying shrubbery. In 1994, the riverbank was widened and recontoured in order for safe passage of the multiple vessels that enter and exit the harbor throughout the year. As the riverbank was dug out, six of the original hackberry trees, which had now reached an average diameter of 12 inches, had to be removed. After the trees were cut down they were sawn into planks by Guenhardt Sawmill and taken to Ken Jilbert, a former industrial arts teacher from the Manistee school system.

As many people know, Ken has an extrasensory talent for woodworking and for shepherding (and doing) countless community projects. After Ken received the planks, he first A photo in the Manistee News Advocate on began making baseball bats Aug. 31, 1953, shows members of the Northside from the remnants of the Improvement Association surveying and readying six trees. However, he soon the site on Memorial Drive for additional planting began to get another idea for of hackberry trees as a memorial to local soldiers the hackberry planks. who died in World War II. Shown (from left to “I started to think that right) are Fred Whidden, NIA member; Fred Storm, a passerby who is interested in the Memorial Drive I could make canes out of the wood instead of bats area; LaVerne Williams, NIA member and Earl because for every bat I could Swank, president of the NIA. make four canes. The canes Additionally, according to were then presented to the “These trees were bought captains of the first vessels www.ehow.com, “The hackand donated by Miss Ethel of the season to enter the Larsen, who has been inter- berry produces small, peariver channel as well as to ested in beautifying Manist- sized berries that change visiting dignitaries to the from light orange to dark ee for many years. purple in color when ripe in city,” said Jilbert.

“Within a few days, the The six hackberry trees early fall. The hackberry is N.I.A. expects to plant two that were cut down were a great tree to attract birds large spruce trees near the eventually replaced with flag pole along the drive and and other animals who love to feed off the fruits both in new trees which over the this will be followed by the years have grown in height the tree and on the forest planting of smaller trees to and stature. floor. In fact, the hackberry carry out the beautifying As with any type of merelies on animals to eat the theme. fruits and disperse its seeds morial, whether it is flowers “The silver maple trees, Manistee resident Ken Jilbert pauses in his on a grave, a section of road, which stood along this drive, in order to reproduce.” woodshop, where he has lathe-turned over 1,000 a tree, or a cane; it all comes In all, it was rumored died due to the salt and canes and walking sticks from hackberry trees calcium chloride on the then that 27 hackberry trees were down to how we remember from Memorial Drive. those who have gone before eventually planted along unpaved road. Within a few Memorial Drive and, accord- us. In the nearly 60 years years, it was stated, these since a small section of road ing to city lore, the number newly planted hackberry of road. A brief article pubspring projects yesterday of trees planted signified the was dedicated to the memtrees will offer the finest of lished in the Manistee News afternoon with the planting total number of soldiers who ory of the Manistee County Advocate on April 25, 1949, of two dozen hackberry trees shade.” were residents of the City of soldiers who passed away The hackberry tree itself describes what led to the along the Memorial Drive. is commonly used as a shade Manistee and lost their lives while fighting World War II, planting of the trees as well Headed by Leroy Marsh, the citizens of Manistee contree and is also known as an fighting in World War II. as the benefactor responsipresident of the N.I.A., ten tinue to memorialize who easily transplantable tree ble for donating the trees: other members set out the Over the years, the drive those soldiers were and who “The Northside Improve- new trees in the first step to- due to its tendency to grow has been beautified with ment Association began its wards beautifying this area. in non-quality soil. the addition of more trees they will always be.

The Veterans Memorial on Memorial Drive has seen many updates over the years.

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Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019

SCHOOLS COMPILED BY MARK FEDDER Manistee County Historical Museum

Trinity Lutheran School Location: First Street opposite Division Established:1872 Danish Lutheran School Location: 300 Walnut St. Established: 1881 St. Peter’s Lutheran School Location: 329 Fifth Street Established: 1899

CHURCHES Trinity Lutheran Church Location: 331 First St. Established: Late 1860s Former church constructed: 1870

In September 1979, Ruth Beddie, a former nurse and physical education teacher at Manistee High School became the instructor for a Community Education class called, “Memories of Manistee” in which local senior citizens shared their memories of growing up (and old) in Manistee.

These fascinating, cassette tape, recorded discussions were eventually donated to the museum and have recently been uncovered. While names are not identified, some of the comments made by the senior citizens regarding the River Street area and businesses (circa 1910s-1920s) are quoted along the map.

The corner of Poplar and River streets at night, circa late 1930s.

Danish Lutheran Church/Our Saviour’s Lutheran Church Currently known as: The Old Kirke Museum Location: 304 Walnut St. Established: 1868

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First/United Methodist Church First Church: On First Street near Spruce Street Second Church: 387 First St. Third Church: 387 First St. Congregation established: 1860 First Scandinavian Lutheran Church/Norwegian Lutheran Church/Kingdom Hall Location: 331 Fourth St. Constructed: 1874-75

Manistee Sesquicentennial | April 2019

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Voices of the past remember River Street

MAP KEY #1 Manistee River & Lake – “(They would) bring the logs on the boats and dump all those big logs right into the river and then pulled the logs into the mill and then they stripped the bark off the logs, sawed them up to make lumber, piled them up and dried them. The boats came back and took the lumber.” #2 Into the channel – “We saw all the boats that came in and went. There were passenger boats that went to Chicago, Manitowoc, Milwaukee and Kewanee. They were palatial beautiful dining rooms, silverware that was made especially for the boats and probably as beautiful as anything we have today.”

This photo was published in the Manistee News Advocate on Sept. 20, 1979, and shows Ruth Beddie (second from left), instructor for the “Memories of Manistee” class, part of a Community Education-leisure time program’s Adult Education series, listening along with class members during their first two meetings that continued for the next 19 weeks at the Senior Center.

#3 and #4 The Larsen Brothers – “The Larsen brothers were both on River Street. H.B. Larsen (364-366 River St.) was on the north side river but on the south side of the river.

F.C. Larsen (355 River/61 Filer) was on the south side of River Street. Sort of faced each other kiddie corner. F.C. Larsen did sell groceries too I’m sure. It wasn’t like you were going to a country general store, it had departments. A real nice store.” #5 The Racket Store (391 River St.) – “The old racket store. They had everything.” #6 The Famous 99 Cent Store (358-360 River St.– “The Famous 99 Cent Store. They sold cloth, patterns, dry goods and toys. And it uh was John Madison’s that was on the north side of the street where Montgomery Ward is. And then he moved across the street and then it was called Madison. He went into strictly clothing and dry goods.” #7 The Boston Cafe (384 River St.) – “The Boston Cafe had Greek owners. It was a small place. It catered to the working class people. You go to a restaurant now and you have a banquet room but it was much smaller than that.

They had specials every day. A nice place to eat, very good food, a good meal for 85 cents.” #8 The Cozy Corner (northwest corner of River and Maple streets) – “There were other restaurants besides the Boston ... there was Harriet’s the Cozy Corner, the high school kids liked to stop there and have a piece of pie. And she had her own special chili recipe. It was a secret.” #9 The Sugar Bowl (417 River St.) – “The Sugar Bowl used to make their own candy and ice creams.”

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#10 The Bluebird Tea Room (410 River St.) – “That’s what I had, The Bluebird. We bought it from Mrs. LaValle and Mrs. Presutto. We had the Bluebird for about nine years.

I didn’t know anything about running a tea room but we managed to do pretty well. We wouldn’t serve any food except what we would eat ourselves and we always served good food. Always had good cooks. We always had fresh flowers on the tables and it was real pretty in there. We had blue table covers and the lower part was lighter blue and they painted the other part dark blue. And I got some pictures with silver frames and flowers, and we had those around the walls. It was real pretty in there. And then yellow curtains. It really was a nice place. We had a wonderful special for 35 cents. Pancakes and sausage and coffee and all you could eat. And of course the Sunday meals were a dollar, I think, with chicken and everything. The head waitress got $8 dollars a week. A big family came in one day. And they occupied two or three tables and the waitress spent a lot of time with them and gave them awfully good service and when they walked out there wasn’t a cent of money on the table but when they picked up every dish there was money under every dish. The boats used to come in here you see. The Chicago boats and on Sunday mornings we’d have really good business and there were people who came from Chicago and would stop with their family at the Bluebird and then they would go on up north, and we wouldn’t see them until they came back in the fall.”

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#11 Dr. Lewis (369 ½ River St.) – “Doctors that had their offices up there and they even operated in their own offices, and I was operated on and had my nose operation on and I wasn’t taken to the hospital either. I walked down there from 5th Street and he took bones out of my nose and then he packed them up with rolls of cotton and I had five of them packed in there. I walked home with all that stuff in my face and when I got home I sat up for two nights and days and I had to breath through my mouth, I couldn’t eat or anything like that. And on the third day I had to walk back and then he took all that stuff out of my nose and that was Doctor Lewis.” #12 Dr. Haynes (394 River St.) – “Dr. Wilcox filled my husband’s teeth when he was 10-11 years old with brass fillings and later he went to see Dr. Haynes and he recognized the work and he said that he (Dr. Wilcox) was the only dentist who used that.” #13 Thor Andresen (52 Greenbush St.) – “Thor Andresen had a record shop and that’s where we bought our first Victrola.” #14 A.H. Lyman Drug Company (425 River St.) – “Mainly a drug store but they had all of the school supplies.

My kids had to go down there and get books. Drugs on one side and school books and supplies on the other. A big drug store.”

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Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019

Scandinavian Methodist/Church of the Nazarene Location: 341 Fifth St. Constructed: 1893-1894 Mission Covenant Church Location: First church constructed in 1885 on McKee Street Second church constructed at 349 Walnut St. Established: 1885 St. Peter’s Lutheran Church Location: 329 Fifth St. Constructed: 1898 Christian Faith Church International Location: 55 Division St. Established: 2010

EARLY INFLUENTIAL PEOPLE D.L. Filer & Mark Tyson: Both sawmill owners, the men owned large portions of land where the area in and around today’s River Street is located.

A view of two-way traffic at the corner of Maple and River streets in Manistee in 1955.

River Street: Two-way or not two-way

BY MARK FEDDER Manistee County Historical Museum

T.J. Ramsdell: Arriving in Manistee in 1860, lawyer T.J. Ramsdell rose to prominence by becoming head of the school board as well as an investor in various properties including the first Maple Street Bridge and the First National Bank. He constructed several buildings on River Street including the brick block on the corner of River and Oak streets and the Ramsdell Building on the corner of River and Maple streets.

MAJOR BUSINESS/ INDUSTRY

Railroads Three of the four railroads that connected the city of Manistee with the outside world were standard gauge railroads that offered freight and passenger service. They were the Flint & Pere Marquette which began in 1881, the Manistee & Northeastern which started in 1888 and the Manistee & Grand Rapids beginning in approximately 1890. In addition, beginning in 1arrived892, Manistee had a railway trolley car system that connected Manistee, Filer City and Eastlake.

Maritime The Stronach family in a small schooner, which they had to unload into a smaller boat or raft due to the original river channel being unnavigable. In 1855, a new channel was dug making the channel open to all vessels. By 1879, records show that 2,900 freighters (schooners) arrived for lumber cargoes. Also by the late 1870s, passenger ships and freighters began bringing more people from bigger cities such as Milwaukee and Chicago into Manistee. The Flint and Pere Marquette line steamers and the Goodrich line provided scheduled service into the 1930s. Bulk freight serviced continues to this day with Manistee being one of only a handful of Lake Michigan ports to do so.

Oftentimes certain topics that once beset cities or villages become cyclical and eventually become a part of current conversation in the present day.

Several years ago, the matter of changing vehicular traffic on River Street from the current one-way to two-way was discussed in Manistee. Roughly 45 years ago, a similar topic was discussed and acted upon; only back then the issue surrounding traffic on River Street was a changeover from two-way traffic to one-way traffic.

As the days of horse and buggies gave way to the automobile, traffic flow on River Street continued to flow in two opposite directions as, at the time, it provided shoppers with a more convenient way to get around the busy business district.

However, by the mid-1960s the City of Manistee was looking for a better and safer way for traffic to move in the city limits. On Feb. 2, 1965, the Manistee City Commission requested that a comprehensive traffic survey report be made by the Automobile Club of Michigan. In a correspondence letter dated March 2, 1965, the Automobile Club approved the city’s request and quickly began to study Manistee’s streets in regard to traffic flow and safety.

A year later the Automobile Club’s report was made available to the city commission and after reviewing the study, the commission decided to change River Street from its initial two-way traffic to westbound one-way traffic. An article published in the Manistee News Advocate on March 9, 1966, briefly describes the commission’s decision and provides further details on recommendations made in the survey: “Members of the city commission decided last night to make River Street a one-way street westbound from Division Street to the west side of a triangle with Water Street, effective April 1.

“No formal action was taken because the commissioners met only as a committee of the whole to study

recommendations of a traffic survey report made by the Automobile Club of Michigan. Formal action was planned for the regular commission meeting Tuesday, March 15.

“The commissioners decided not to take any actions on recommendations of the survey to make Memorial Drive a one-way street, as they said they did not consider such action necessary now or that it would serve any useful purpose.

“Until legal work on deeds for an exchange of property for two houses on Greenbush Street can be completed so Water Street can be opened as an east-bound return street from River Street to connect with Clay Street, the return will be way of Memorial Drive or via Water Street to Maple Street and Maple to First Street. It is hoped that the Water Street extension can be completed by July, City Manager Kenneth Northuis said today.

“The city manager and police chief were asked to look over all narrow streets in the city and make recommendations as whether they should be made one way or be restricted as to parking on them.

“Northuis reported that work is underway on raising stop signs throughout the city to be at least seven feet from the ground to the bottom of the sign and that two dozen were found to be too low.

“He said eight new school crossing signs had been purchased to replace obsolete signs and are installed.

“Two-way traffic will continue on First Street after one-way traffic is inaugurated on River Street and parking will be permitted on both sides of River Street.”

The next day, with regard to the commission’s decision to change the direction of traffic on River Street, the Manistee News Advocate published a brief editorial agreeing with the choice: “The city commission is to be congratulated on its consideration of traffic pattern improvements here in line with recommendations of a study made by the Automobile Club of Michigan.

“Driving down River Street with

two-way traffic is a lot like running an obstacle course. All available parking places always seem to be across the street.

“Now shoppers will be able to park on either side of the one-way street.”

According to the minutes from the city commission’s next meeting, which was held on March 15, 1966, the changeover was to be put into effect but only on a temporary basis: “It was reported that River Street would be made a one-way street, effective April 1, 1966, under a Traffic Control Change Order on a 90-day trial basis.”

Traffic signs were swiftly ordered and were to be installed prior to Friday, April 1. However, it was soon decided to alter the date of the changeover because Fridays were considered to be busy shopping days and it was predicted that changing traffic on a weekend would do nothing but confuse people. With this in mind, officials made the decision to change the date of the changeover to 8 a.m. on Tuesday, April 5.

At the next city commission meeting held on April 5, 1966, it was moved, “…that Traffic Control Order #1-66, making River Street a one-way street from Division to Water Street, be approved.” All of the commissioners voted in favor.

Former mayor of the City of Manistee, the late Howard Fenton, was a city commissioner at the time River Street was changed from twoway to one-way traffic. Mr. Fenton recalled what led to the changeover: “Traffic on River Street got to be a big nuisance and over the years, whether it was the larger style vehicles of the time or how busy River Street was, people began to get tied up in traffic. It was just a terrible mess.

“The Automobile Club of Michigan recommended that we change to one-way traffic, so we did on a 90 day trial basis. It was an experiment at first to see how it would work.”

According to Mr. Fenton, “After the 90 trial was up, it was changed back to two-way, but the public reaction was so great that after a short period of time, we changed it again

Manistee Sesquicentennial | April 2019 to one-way as people didn’t want to deal with the big traffic mess again.”

Another former City Commissioner, and former mayor of the City of Manistee, who was also on the commission at the time the changeover was instigated was the late Mr. Sylvester “Buck” Flarity, who remembered the havoc that two-way traffic ultimately caused on River Street: “The traffic was changed to one way because there began to be more accidents, especially with the trucks making deliveries to stores downtown.”

17 “There was also too much traffic going back and forth in opposite directions. It (the traffic flow) didn’t work well anymore. I just don’t think it would work again.”

The day after the change went into effect, the Manistee News Advocate published a brief editorial, titled “Wrong Way Corrigan,” which commented on the difficulty of changing direction on River Street. The editorial is amusing but also perfectly sums up the struggle inherent with any change — whether it is for the better or for the worse: “After cautioning against turning

right off River Street what did we do yesterday but steam out of the office and make a hard right off Maple Street. Furthermore, it took us a couple of blocks to figure out what was wrong and dart off into the nearest side street.

“We can recommend the experience to would-be non-conformists.

It is a heady feeling to be the only person going your direction. But our face was slightly cerise until we saw another driver making the same mistake. The herd instinct, or misery loving company, proved stronger than any kick out of being different.”

Commercial fishing Commercial fishing started in Manistee in the 1850s with European commercial fishermen commencing fishing upon their arrival. Generations of families continued in the occupation over the decades.

Manistee Iron Works Location: 254 River St. Established: 1871 Structure still standing: Built in 1907 The original Manistee Iron Works was established in 1871 on the corner of River and Smith streets. The next 10 plus years saw change as the foundry changed hands a number of times.

In 1883, the firm became incorporated with John Bowie as President and George Ray As Vice President. Ray would later become President of the firm and a new building was constructed in 1887 on the corner of Ashland and Jones streets. In 1907, the firm constructed the current Manistee Iron Works structure on land located south of the 1887 building.1953 saw the operation purchased by the Michigan Tool Company. The mid-1960s saw turnover once again when the company was bought out

by Ex-Cell-O, a Michigan based company specializing in small machine parts. Operations ceased in July of 1981.

REMAINING NOTABLE ARCHITECTURE With one of the factors being the abundance of Victorian architecture, the Manistee Central Business District became included on the National Register of Historic Places in May of 1982.

The Ramsdell Theatre Located: 101 Maple St. Opened: 1903 Manistee County Public Library Located: 95 Maple St. Opened: 1905 Vogue Theatre Located: 383 River St. Opened: 1938

There was plenty of traffic on River Street during a sidewalk sale in the 1970s after traffic was switched to one-way.

Ramsdell Building Located: 399 River St. Opened: 1892

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Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019

From department stores to small businesses

BY ASHLYN KORIENEK Staff Writer

organization formed and acquired the Vogue from the Downtown Development Authority, and volunteers Throughout time the landscape of Manistee's pitched in to reopen the River Street business district iconic theater, which had a has dramatically changed. grand reopening in DecemWhat used to be a departber 2013. Since then, Mix ment store driven district is said it has been growing in now primarily small ownpatronage. er-operated businesses.

"It's a pivotal corner in However, many historic the community because buildings in the River Street you can't look either way on business district presently River Street and not see the house long-term businesses Vogue Theatre sticking out that withstood decades of like a sore thumb," Mix said. development.

"The Vogue needed to be an A common driver of integral part of the commusuccess for many of these nity, and we needed to serve long-term businesses is the whole community." the small-town charm that According to Mix, the brings loyal customers back long-term success for the to visit — patrons are always Vogue, even during its years treated like family. in decline, is rooted in its old-fashioned movie expeCOMMUNITY SERVICE David Mix, vice president rience. While most movie of the Vogue Theatre's Board theaters adhere to a modern of Directors, said the historic experience, Mix said the Vogue is "stuck" in the past Vogue, which has been on River Street for 80 years, has for a reason.

"We never want to lose endured decades of development in the downtown area. that feeling. That's what brings people back," Mix However, it could not have said. "So many people are succeeded without commucoming over from Cadillac, nity support. up from Ludington, south The Vogue opened Jan. 12, 1938, and operated regu- of Manistee, and they come to the Vogue because of the larly in the summer of 2005 experience." before closing — but not for The volunteer-driven custoo long.

In 2010, a nonprofit tomer service has brought

Vogue Theatre late 1930s. costumers back since reopening.

"What has really been the driving success for the Vogue is the fact the power that runs it is volunteers," Mix said. "We simply could not have done the restoration and the reopening of the theater if it wasn't for the volunteers."

The historic Manistee Vogue Theatre had a grand reopening in December 2013. (News Advocate File Photo)

A CHANGING INDUSTRY

Over the decades, the retail industry has drastically changed with growing technology and customer demand.

Jill Snyder, part-owner of Snyder's Shoes on River Street, has witnessed it all in merely the past 13 years of her time managing Snyder's.

Kip and Jill Snyder are the current third generation owners, along with partners Dan and Jerel Bathrick.

The business was acquired from Jim and Susan, Kip's parents; and prior to that, C.R. “Bud” Snyder, who first opened Snyder's Shoes in 1938.

"When we first bought

Manistee Sesquicentennial | April 2019 it, there was not an online (platform)," she said. "It was just coming out. That was a whole new world. It's made us have to be smarter about our buying, and more strategic about the brands we carry."

However, Snyder said their focus has always been to primarily bring quality in-store customer service to downtown Manistee.

"We have to figure out in this retail landscape what we are good at, and that's taking really good care of our customers and providing the experience for them," she said. "That's what they cannot get online."

In the earlier years, Snyder said they were able to buy another location in Ludington. Many changes were made to keep up with growing customer demand, as well.

"We created our own shipping and receiving department, which hadn't been the case before," Snyder said.

"As a store owner you do wonder what is in store for the next 10 years, and you definitely want to be ready and prepare for that."

STAYING LOCAL

Wahr Hardware has stood on Division Street in the downtown district for over a century.

Current owner Don

Wahr's grandfather and his business partner first purchased the property in 1914, and by the 1930s the business was fully operated as a hardware store.

"Around about 1954 my dad bought out his brother and somewhere in the 1940s my grandpa bought out his partner," Wahr remembered.

"Dad was here up until the '90s. I came back from school in 1975 and pretty much took over."

Wahr recalls a time when the hardware store serviced big business in the area, but changing-times meant that services were acquired from out-of-town.

"The business has changed dramatically. All of the plants did business in town and now they buy things from out of town, which makes it very difficult," Wahr said. "Thankfully, the city is a very good customer."

While modern hardware stores typically fix problems by selling products to customers, Wahr said their policy is to attempt to fix the product first.

"If you bring in a part from your faucet, we are probably going to try to fix it before we sell you a new one, which is not what most places do anymore," he said.

"You can go into a department store and come across

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Snyder's Shoes circa 1940.

Snyder's Shoes was first opened

by C.R. “Bud” Snyder in 1938. The store is still operating today on River Street. (Ashlyn Korienek/News Advocate)

Wahr Hardware circa 1950s.

Wahr Hardware on Division Street has been a part of Manistee’s downtown district for over a century.

(Ashlyn Korienek/News Advocate)

someone that treats you very well, but the culture of the business is about other things."

Many businesses in the district felt the shift of today's online shopping industry, but for Wahr, their success has always been

through in-person customer care.

"When you buy stuff online the only interaction you have is not with a person," he said. "I think there's a place for stores that still hold hands with you, and analyze your problems and try to

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solve them. I do not think that automates very well."

Wahr said he is not sure what challenges loom ahead for those in the River Street business district, but they plan to stick to their mission statement: "Solving Manistee's problems since 1914."

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Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019

CONGRATULATES THE CITY OF MANISTEE ON 150 YEARS NEWSPAPER TIMELINE Dec. 17, 1864 – The Manistee Gazette was the first newspaper in Manistee County, published by 19-yearold Robert Rice 1868 – The name was changed to the Manistee Times, ownership turned over to S.W. Fowler The building formerly located at 415 Water St. was home to the former Manistee Daily News which was consolidated into the Manistee News Advocate in 1914. The structure was torn dowwn in 1967.

1894 – A group of 25 prominent businessmen organized the News Publishing Company to publish the Manistee Daily News, opening at the west end of Water Street By early 1900 – The Manistee Daily News moves to the Engelmann Building on the corner of Maple and River streets 1907 – The News Publishing Company constructs a new building to house the Manistee Daily News located at 415 Water St.

Bill Schimke, a printer from the Manistee News Advocate, works on preparing the next day’s paper, circa 1940s

1914 – James Madison purchased the controlling interest of the News Publishing Company; shortly after, the Manistee Daily Advocate and the Manistee Daily News were consolidated to become the Manistee News Advocate 1928 – The Conine Publishing Company, was organized by three men, one of whom was Austin C. Batdorff 1937 – Austin’s son, John H. Batdorff followed him into the family business eventually becoming publisher of the News Advocate

Irv Jensen

1961 – John A. “Jack” began work News Advocate, later became chairman of the company 1964 – The offices and production of the newspaper were moved into the vacated Kroger building at 75 Water St. Late 1960s – Cris Batdorff began work at the News Advocate, later became the publisher Marge Olson

1988 – A name change occurred, and all publications were put under the Pioneer Group umbrella 1992 – The fourth generation of the Batdorff family, John A. Batdorff II, joined the company, later became the president and CEO Mid-1990s – printing operations moved to Big Rapids, home of the parent company, the Pioneer Group

The Manistee News Advocate has been located at 75 Water St. since 1964.

January 2017 – Hearst Newspapers purchases the Manistee News Advocate and the Pioneer Group

OTHER NEWSPAPERS IN THE EARLY DAYS OF MANISTEE Manistee Standard Manistee Times and Standard Manistee Sentinel Manistee Times Sentinel Manistee Daily Call Manistee Broadaxe Manistee Democrat

Manistee Independent Manistee Weekly Advocate Manistee Advocate Manistee Examiner Manistee Daily Advocate Manistee Daily News

Manistee Sesquicentennial | April 2019

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Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019

The opulent Canfield and Wheeler mansions

BY MARK FEDDER Manistee County Historical Museum In every city there are stories about the history of the community that residents have heard again and again. These stories take the form of many things but are usually about people, about a particular happenstance or event or are oftentimes about a particular building or structure that used to be in a specific spot in town.

Used to be.

That’s the key phrase whenever we talk about history as it implies something that is long gone. In the case of the Canfield and Wheeler mansions that used to be located between Third and Fourth streets in the city of Manistee, the fact that they were torn down long ago and cannot be physically seen today is exactly what makes their stories worth retelling.

Canfield mansion parlor

JOHN CANFIELD MANSION

Edmund, ended when they died, he took on as a partner in his sawmill operations (his close relation) Edward Wheeler THE JOHN CANFIELD MANSION and established the firm of Canfield & Arriving in Manistee from Wisconsin Wheeler (located in the area surroundin the late 1840s, John Canfield grew to ing today’s Douglas Park) in 1871.

While Canfield originally lived in a become one of the wealthiest lumberhouse on Cedar Street, he decided to men in Manistee. After partnerships with his father, Roswell, and his brother, hire a friend of his, a Chicago architect

by the name of William LeBaron Jenney, to design a new home for himself and his family. This new home, however, was far from any ordinary new home, even for a millionaire like Canfield, as the grounds in and around the house were to take up a whole city block bounded by Third, Fourth, Cedar and Elm streets.

Construction on what was to become

John Canfield known as the Canfield Mansion began in early 1875.

On Aug. 21 of that year, a reporter from the Manistee Advocate was given a tour of the mansion which was in the process of being constructed. Excerpts of the reporter’s description of the home are located next to the photograph of the Canfield Mansion.

“From the third story we ascend the tower, the top of which is 36 feet above the roof of the main building and 82 feet from the ground. From this point we command a splendid view of the lake; we see vessels enter and clear our harbor; we look southward and see Point Sauble some 20 miles up the shore.

“We gaze westward and imagine the faint lines of the west shore bordering the lake; we look to the north and see the smoke ascent from the Frankfort Iron Works, and then we turn to the east and view the thousands of acres of timbered land spread out before us. In fact, considering the elevation upon which the building is being erected and the height of the tower, a more beautiful view of Manistee and surrounding can be had from no other point.”

“The third story of the main building will have a large billiard hall, a spacious ballroom, and two store rooms and the third story of the wing will contain a tank with a capacity of 477 gallons of water.

“The second story of the main building has five capacious bedrooms and seven large clothes presses, and will be 12 feet in the clear. The second story of the wing has four bedrooms and a bathroom.

“The main entrance of the first story is from the south through a vestibule 7x10 feet, into a hall 12x40 feet, which will be laid with a superior quality of tile-stone of various colors. On the right is a parlor, a spacious room 20x22 feet, with a bay window in the front 8x11 feet.

Formerly Located at 512 Fourth Street

Manistee Sesquicentennial | April 2019

A.O. Wheeler

“Still ascending, we are on the third floor, where is the grand ballroom 26x52 in size. The ceiling of this apartment will be elegantly frescoed and the walls appointed in oil. Beside the ballrooms are two large rooms, which will generally be used as ballrooms but on state occasions, when the ballroom is in use, they will be transformed into elegant cloak and retiring rooms for the guest. On this floor is also the children’s playroom.”

The A.O. Wheeler (left) and John Canfield mansion (right) on top of Cedar Street Hill circa 1888

“Mounting the staircase for the last time, we are in the tower, 16x20 and 30 feet in height. In this tower are the various water tanks, connected by pipes.”

“Again ascending, we observe that the dimensions of the hallway, and of the rooms are the same as on the floor below. All the rooms on this floor will be used as bedrooms, except the one over the parlor, which will be used as a sitting room for guest.”

“From every window on the north, west and south sides of the house a beautiful view of the lake is obtained, while from the windows of the tower the harbors of Ludington and Frankfort, 30 miles distant, are plainly discernible on a clear day.”

Formerly Located at 514 Third Street

“Entering the main floor, we traverse a large vestibule to the main hallway, 18x22; on the right is the dining room, ceiled with hardwood; jutting off the dining room is a conservatory, facing south, out of the dining room is a smaller hallway which leads to the kitchen, pantries, etc. and to the back stairway. Recrossing the hallway we enter the parlor, a large room with a low window facing south and west.”

ABRAM O. WHEELER MANSION

In early 1867, Abram O. Wheeler arrived in Manistee to visit his brother, Edward and sister Mrs. John Canfield. Finding employment in the Canfield General Store, he was later placed in charge of tug boat operation established by John Canfield. From there on, A.O. Wheeler was involved in many different businesses including the Wheeler, Johnson & Company machine shop as well as several sawmills. A strong leader in the local Republican Party, A.O. was appointed U.S. Marshal of the Western District of Michigan in 1897 and later moved to Grand Rapids.

In 1879, his palatial new home, which was compared to a castle in Europe, was completed. Like his brother-in-law, John Canfield, it was designed by Chicago architect, William LeBaron Jenning.

The June 14, 1879, edition of the Manistee News Advocate described the house.

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Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019

EDWARD D. WHEELER MANSION

It was said that Edward D. Wheeler, who was four years older than his brother Abram, was sent to Manistee from Joliet, Illinois, by his parents to prevent his enlisting during the Civil War. As such he began working for his brother-in-law, John Canfield as a general utility man in the camps, stores and mills. Three years later he had worked his way up and became foreman of the sawmills eventually partnering with John Canfield.

Like most of the other lumbermen living in “The Hill” area, E.D. Wheeler was also involved in several other business ventures including the Manistee Boom Company and many sawmill and salt operations.

In 1885, E.D. Wheeler and family moved into their new home, which was also designed by William LeBaron Jenning. Altogether William LeBaron Jenney designed seven structures in Manistee, two of which (the First Congregational Church and the E.P. Case home) are still standing.

E.D. Wheeler parlor

Wednesday, May 15, 2019

“A Walking Tour of the ‘Hill’ Homes: PART 1” Where: Meet at the Manistee County Historical Museum (located at 425 River St.) Time: 2 p.m.

Cost: Donations accepted Take a walking tour and learn about the history behind the homes located on Manistee’s west side. Local historian, John Perschbacher will lead the tour that will focus not only on the structures that are still standing but also on the numerous residences that have been lost over the years. The tour will begin promptly at 2 p.m. and is strictly a walking tour of the outside of the homes. Wear comfortable walking shoes. There is no cost to this event however, donations will be accepted. The tour will last 1.5 to 2 hours.

E.D. Wheeler

“The view from all the rooms looking toward the lake is exceptionally fine.”

“The third story is finished in black oak, the windows being of plain glass below and colored glass across the upper part of the upper sash.”

“The third story contains also a tank room, a store room, and a room for closet purposes.”

“There are 17 closets in the house, and a grate or a radiator in every room, not expecting the tank room.”

“The front entrance is a broad veranda beautifully decorated. The main hall being finished in red oak, with paneled sides and ceiling. The reception hall is also finished in red oak, with paneled sides and ceiling.

The reception hall is also finished in red oak, with a curtained entrance from it to the back part of the hall.”

“The dining room opens from the main hall toward the south and contains a unique buffet, as was also the finishing of the whole house inside, which is one of the most beautiful mansions, both in design and finish, ever seen by your reporter.”

Formerly Located at 405 Cedar Street

Manistee Sesquicentennial | April 2019

25

Jefferson continues to serve community

BY MARK FEDDER Manistee County Historical Museum Wandering around Manistee, it’s easy to admire the multitude of historic buildings that are interspersed throughout the city streets.

While these structures stand out due to their unique features and stature, there are plenty of so-called “plain-looking” buildings that are equally important. In January 1955, Jefferson Elementary School was dedicated during a special evening ceremony that marked its opening as Manistee’s most modern school. Six decades later the school continues to serve the community and has officially cemented its place as an historic building … even if it still looks a little plain.

After the new Manistee High School building opened its doors in 1927, the former high school which was called Central School (formerly located on the corner of First and Oak Street) became the main city elementary school and was renamed Woodrow Wilson School. For the next 25 plus years, the building served as the primary education center for school children in the City of Manistee.

However, by the early 1950s, the structure was in need of a major maintenance overhaul and it was decided to see if the people of the city would vote in two bond proposals in order to construct and financially support a new elementary school.

To help sway local voters’ minds the school board printed up pamphlets so the public could get a better idea of the bond proposals as well as the condition of Woodrow Wilson

SCHOOLS First schoolhouse Location: Near Canfield’s mill at the southern mouth of the Manistee River Established: 1852 First public schoolhouse Location: Northwest corner of Spruce and First streets Established: Late 1850s Private schoolhouse Location: Located on west Third Street Established: Circa 1860 The first Central High School Location: Corner of First and Oak streets Established: 1867 The second Central School/Woodrow Wilson School Location: Corner of First and Oak streets Constructed:1886-87 Guardian Angel School Location: Michael Street Established: 1893

Jefferson Elementary School was built in 1955.

School, which was described as such: “Surveys of conditions existing in this obsolete building reveal an appalling inadequacy of basic requirements for sanitation and safety as well as education. The kitchen and washroom facilities are hopelessly out-moded. The safety hazards created by old wiring, steep stairs, and the ever-present fire danger cannot be overstated. The want of proper storage places, suitable desks and lockers promotes confusion and strain for teacher and student alike. Playground space is virtually non-existent. At every turn is evidence that the present building cannot hope to meet modern educational standards. The need for a new school is glaringly apparent.”

On May 20, 1953, a proposal to

bond the city school district for the amount of $360,000 to build the new school was passed by a vote of 862 to 799. The other proposal, to increase the tax millage, was carried by a vote of 924 to 825.

With a site already selected for the new school on Bryant Avenue, construction commenced a short time later with work continuing through the later part of 1954. On Nov. 15, 1954, the new school, called Jefferson Elementary School opened to students, with an official dedication planned for the coming year.

By mid-January, plans were put into place for the celebratory dedication which was to take place on Jan. 13 with an open house held from 2 to 4:30 p.m. and a ceremony at 8 p.m.

St. Mary’s Parochial School Location: Corner of Third and Sycamore streets Established:1879 Union School/Grant School Location: Fourth and Maple streets Dedicated: 1885 Current Trinity Lutheran School Location: 420 Oak St. Dedicated/Established: 1965 Manistee Business College Location: Various Established: Circa 1890s Manistee County Normal School Location: Basement of Manistee City Library Established 1905

Manistee High School building Location: Maple between Sixth and Seventh streets Dedicated: 1927

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Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019

Jefferson Elementary School Location: 515 Bryant Ave. Dedicated: 1955 Manistee High School addition/Kennedy Elementary School Location: 550 Maple St. Dedicated: 1967 Current Manistee High School Location: 525 12th St. Dedicated: 2003

CHURCHES First Congregational Church Current location: 412 Fourth St. Congregation established: 1862 Current building constructed: 1892 Guardian Angels Catholic Church Location: 371 Fifth St. Constructed: 1888-1890 Holy Trinity Episcopal Church Location: 410 Second St. Constructed: 1888-1889 Current Trinity Lutheran Church Current location: 420 Fifth St. Current building dedicated: 1957 The Unitarian Church/Church of Science/First Baptist/ New Life Tabernacle Location: 449 Fifth St. Constructed: 1888-1887 Maple Street Baptist Church Location: Formerly located on the corner of Maple and Third streets Dedicated: 1883 Seventh Day Adventist Location: 205 Maple St. Dedicated: 1944 Faith Covenant Church Location: 475 Eighth St. Dedicated: Early 2000s

MAJOR BUSINESSES/ INDUSTRY Tourism at First Street Beach By the late 1910s, it was decided that in order to make the area more marketable to tourists driving their automobiles around, a passable road should be constructed heading west to the beach on First Street. By 1920, a new road was put into place, essentially opening the First Street Beach area to motorists, tourists and summer recreation enthusiasts alike.

Manistee Golf & Country Club Location: 500 Cherry Road Established: 1901 Established by local lumber barons as place for warm-weather recreation, the Manistee Golf and Country Club remains one of the oldest courses in Michigan.

Manistee Water Works Location: 540 First St. Established: 1882

Brief details on the building’s construction as well as more details on the dedication were published in the Jan. 12, 1955, issue of the Manistee News Advocate. Portions of the original article follow: “The elementary school, nearly a block long, having a total square footage of 24,290 and total cubic footage of 303,400 was built at a total cost of $313,372.26 with the general contractors being Strom Construction Co. of Grand Rapids, the mechanical contractor being Union Plumbing and Heating Co. of Traverse City, and the electrical contractor being the Northwestern Electric Service, Inc., of Traverse City.

“The architects and engineers of the new school were Louis C. Kingscott and Associates, Inc., of Kalamazoo.

“Manistee’s newest school is simple in form but marked by architectural refinements and the efficient use of the space.

“During the afternoon open house, all visitors will be asked to register and then will be conducted through the building by student guides.

“The dedication program will begin at 8 p.m. in gymnasium or all purpose room with the invocation being given by Rev. H.J. Perschbacher.

“Music will be provided by pupils of the middle grades of all three elementary schools under the direction of Miss Thelma Paulson.

“The dedication address by Dr. Kenneth Bordine, director of elementary training at Central Michigan College, will follow. The benediction

by Rev. Perschbacher will close the program.

“Inspection of the building and refreshments served by members of the Jefferson PTA will begin approximately at 9 p.m.”

On Jan. 14, 1955, it was reported that while only an estimated 200 people visited the open house during the afternoon, 400 attended the evening dedication program.

Manistee Area Public Schools, which now owns three buildings located on "The Hill" is in the process of making changes in those historic structures. The 1927 former high school building located behind Kennedy Elementary School hasn't been used in years and is scheduled for demolition.

The district is looking to make a decision on what to do with Jefferson Elementary School.

"We have a committee called MAPS 2020 that is looking at the past 20 years of the district, the next 20 years, and our goal is to come up with a plan of how we want to move forward," said current MAPS superintendent Ron Stoneman.

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The Woodrow Wilson School belfry was demolished in order to remove the bell.

The bell from Woodrow Wilson School now sits in front of the Water Works building on First Street.

The former Manistee High School circa 1940s.

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'The Hill' played an important role in the development of Manistee

Constructed in 1882, the city’s water supply ran in and out of the Manistee Water Works for over 60 years. After the city changed from a steam to an electric water pumping system, the building was closed but later reopened through the efforts of the local historical society. It was there that the society opened the first museum in Manistee in 1955.

By KEN GRABOWSKI Associate Editor Manistee has witnessed a great deal of changes over the past 150 years since it incorporated as a city, but there is a certain thought process that has lasted for decades in the community.

One of those that began early on was the place where most residents lived within the city. In the early years much of the lumber, salt and other industry was located in one of two sections of the city — either around Manistee Lake or along the Manistee River channel.

The key reasoning for that was the bulk of the products produced in this area were shipped by water on schooners and later on steam vessels.

However, just as the lay of the land put those businesses in that proximity to water, the lack of transportation around the community in those early years also made it necessary for the working class to live in walking distance from those factories.

However, the lumber barons, bankers and others of influence and wealth like the Sands, Buckley, Ramsdell and Filer families built ornate mansions on the elevated portions of Manistee west of Maple Street. It was the first time the words "The Hill" worked its way into the Manistee vernacular, and it is something that stuck for decades until about the turn of the century in 2000.

The words "The Hill" meant all kinds of things to various people around Manistee. To those who lived there, it meant they had made it life, while to those who didn't it was a

Nels Johnson Machine Shop Location: 523 Water St. Established: 1871 At first partnering with A.O. Wheeler, Nels Johnson opened a machine shop at this location in the 1870s. It was there he built and repaired sawmill machinery, clocks, a telescope and large tower clocks for church towers and other significant buildings around the country.

EARLY INFLUENTIAL PEOPLE Many of the residents of “The Hill” area were business people and owners of sawmills, salt blocks, lawyers and businesses.

Their influence on Manistee during its formative years helped create the town into one of the most prosperous in Michigan.

NOTABLE ARCHITECTURE Picking out just a few of the significant structures in this area is a difficult tasks as many know, the Victorian architecture is abundant. Thus most of the remaining architecture is abundant. However, here is a sampling of the mansions that (like the Canfield & Wheeler mansions) have since been torn down …

The Manistee Golf & Country Club is one of the oldest courses in Michigan being established in 1901. symbol of knowing they weren't one of Manistee's upper class.

For most people, the area known as "The Hill" ran from Maple Street to Lake Michigan beginning on First Street and ending on Eighth Street.

However, it didn't extend much beyond Cedar Street in the early years.

Much of the area behind Cedar Street wasn't really developed with the exception of the Manistee Golf and Country Club in those early years. However, following World War II, Manistee like many other communities its size took off in an economic boom.

During the 1950s, 1960s and 1970s

streets like Bryant, Browning, Eighth and Cherry were filled with new homes built by some of Manistee's new affluent residents. Once again "The Hill" came to be known around the community in much the same fashion as earlier, but this time it wasn't only the millionaire lumber barons who occupied those residences but a new emerging middle class.

There also was many points of interest mixed in among the many homes that primarily occupied that area, one was Manistee Golf & Country Club.

Established in 1901, this exemplified people who resided in that area be-

The T.J. Ramsdell Mansion Located: 474 Cedar St.

The Louis Sands Mansion Located: 413 Oak St. The D.W. & Carrie Filer Mansion Located: 453 Cedar St.

Tomorrow Begins Today!

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To transform the former St. Mary’s of Mt. Carmel Shrine into a future-ready Manistee County-oriented community and senior center that allows the service and accessibility our local residents need and deserve!

MCCOA Vision Statement

The Manistee County Council on Aging will be the organization that effectively helps all senior citizens of Manistee County to have access to services and resources which meet their needs.

MCCOA Mission Statement

The Manistee County Council on Aging serves the senior citizens of Manistee County by promoting quality of life and independence by addressing their unique needs and challenges utilizing a fiscally sound approach.

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Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019

The First Congregational Church was built in 1892 with funds donated by many of the lumber barons in the community.

HAPPY 150 BIRTHDAY MANISTEE! TH

cause, for many years, it was an exclusive golf course that was utilized primarily at that time by the elite members of the community. However, over time that has changed and now it is a public course open to everyone.

The Manistee Golf & Country Club featured all the old-world charm of the game of golf of the early 1900s, both in the design of the course and the ornate clubhouse that still exists to this day.

Although many things have been added to the building over the years, one thing that hasn't changed is the charm of the clubhouse itself.

Manistee Golf and Country Club president Fred Niles said they still work hard at maintaining the historical significance of the club.

"It is something we are certainly looking to do," said Niles. "It has been discussed getting the course on the (national) historical register. It isn't anything that has been pursued in the past, but we have discussed it a bit. I think most of the board members and membership agree it would be worthwhile for us to maintain that historic sense of the club."

Niles said he feels it is one of the niches of the club, as it is one of the oldest courses in the state of Michigan.

"I am not exactly sure where we stand in the scheme of things there, but we certainly have to be in the top five in terms of age," said Niles.

He said that for whatever reason they have always been looked at as a private club, but that isn't true.

"It was at one time, but it has been a long time since the club has gone public," said Niles. "I guess we could characterize it as semi-private as there are memberships, but certainly the public is wholeheartedly welcome to the club. That is one of the things we keep trying to remind people of in our advertising, but it is amazing that so many don't understand it's public."

In 1901, the Manistee Golf and Country Club was private, and it was the lumber barons who were instrumental in giving the club its start. That was evident by the names of its first directors, people like Edward Buckley (president), Charles Canfield (vice president), George Swigart (secretary) and Robert Babcock (treasurer). The directors were W. Dempsey, Patrick Noud, E. Golden Filer, W.J. Gregory and J.E. Merritt.

Niles said individuals like that add to the historical tale of the club.

"We put together video on the history of the club, and Pat Williams and Jim Sibley were the narrators of it," said Niles.

"A lot of the printed history of the club is contained on that video and it is available to watch on YouTube."

Niles said something that speaks to the history is an event planned for later this year to honor longtime Manistee Golf and Country Club superintendent Mike Fatke, who died in 2018.

"Mike was someone who enjoyed playing golf with old hickory wood shafted clubs," said Niles. "So in his memory, in conjunction with the Michigan Hickory Tour, we are hosting in his memory the Mike Fatke Memorial Match Play Hickory Tournament. It will be a two-day tournament in September. We are anticipating Hickory golfers from around the state and I think it is going to be really nice."

Another area of "The Hill" where the lumber barons planted a seed that continues to grow until this day is in religious establishments like the First Congregational and Guardian Angels churches.

The Congregational Church, which is located at the corner of Fourth and Oak streets was completed in 1892.

The lumber barons spared no cost with the building being designed by world famous architect William LeBaron Jenney, of Chicago, with the clock being made by Nels Johnson, who was a noted clock maker from Manistee. It also

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Manistee Sesquicentennial | April 2019

29

included a series of ornate stained glass windows that many noted citizens of "The Hill" area purchased for it.

Some 126 years later, the congregation of today still embraces the historical aspects of their church. Being listed on both the Michigan Historic Building Register and the the National Register of Historic Places, the church is often visited by touring groups from around the Midwest.

First Congregational Church chairman of the board Duane Jones said they try hard to maintain the historical perspective of the structure.

"From a historical standpoint it goes back to the nickname of the 'Lumber Barons Cathedral,'" said Jones. "And interesting enough all the lumber barons dumped a bunch of money in there, and although their wives attended, none of them did."

Jones said they are trying to maintain the heritage of the historic structure to this day.

"We are right in the middle of a window restoration project where all those stained glass windows they donated will be removed, restored and re-installed," said Jones. "We also have a separate entity set up through the Manistee County Community Foundation called 'Glass, sticks and bricks' and that is basically a vehicle to get donations for not just the windows, but the entire building."

The building structure is in pretty good shape now, according to Jones.

"We have undertaken roof repairs and some work on the inside due to some leaks," he said. "We also had Northern Restoration here three or four years ago doing a brick overall where everything was tuck pointed and sealed."

Jones said being an old building it always needs something, but they are working hard to maintain that historic perspective.

"We want to keep it as it should be forever and ever," he said. "Guardian Angels

is another local treasurer and they are getting ready to ramp up that building which is great."

A local group under Divine Mercy Parish is working to breathe new life into Guardian Angels Church, which has been a part of the community since 1890.

A few members of Divine Mercy Parish convened to answer a call from their priests to apply for status on the National Register of Historic Places for the Guardian Angles Church building and rectory — located at 371 Fifth St. in Manistee.

A group called the Guardian Angels Historic Preservation Project formed in 2018 to start research on the church and embark on a journey to develop plans for ongoing preservation.

Mathew LaMore, who is a part of the project group, said the result was a 20page application submitted to the State Historic Preservation Review Board in Lansing. He said the application details reasons why Guardian Angels deserves to be placed on the national historic register.

“In so many ways it is the centerpiece of our town,” said LaMore. “It is a point of pride, for me, to know the highest point in our city is the cross on the Guardian Angels steeple. It bothered me to see the facility without a plan for its future, because we well know nothing of this scale and detail is built new any more. “(Guardian Angles) is a time capsule of our Victorian heritage, of our lumber era heritage, and of our Christian heritage. It has so much potential to continue to serve our city.”

At present, the project group is awaiting an opportunity to present their application to the Historic Preservation Board, which will make a final determination regarding the church’s potential designation on the National Register of Historic Places.

Zupin Crane helped the Guardian Angels Historic Preservation Project light up the church in June 2018 (Courtesy Photo/ Guardian Angels Historic Preservation Project)

First Congregational Church under construction in 1892

MANISTEE CIVIC PLAYERS

Entertaining Manistee and beyond for 80 years!

• Manistee Civic Players were formed in 1939.

• First production was “The Night of January 16th”.

• In 1951, the Manistee Drama Festival was formed and opened with Ruth Gordon’s “Over 21”.

• In 1953, James Earl Jones began as a stage carpenter with the summer theatre at the Ramsdell and from 1955-1957 as an actor and stage manager • In 1963, the Manistee Civic Players began producing 4 shows a year and put back profits realized into the restoration of the theatre.

The interior was painted, the gilt work redone, lighting fixtures revamped, the lobby and restrooms remodeled and the new doors installed at the main entrance Backstage improvements, along with basement dressing room refurbishments were done and a new stage and house lighting dimmer system was purchased.

• In 1972, the Manistee Civic Players signed a lease with the City which allowed them to manage the theatre portion and continue their restoration work.

• In 1989, the Manistee Civic Players began to manage the entire building.

• In 1995, Toni Trucks played the youngest daughter in “Fiddler on the Roof”.

• In 2004, it became obvious that supporting the building’s operations along with their productions was financially draining the Manistee Civic Players so they asked the City to consider the work of a Governance Planning Committee.

• In 2005, the City formed the Ramsdell Governance Authority to provide ongoing oversight to management, maintenance and restoration efforts which freed up the Manistee Civic Players to focus exclusively on their productions.

Stay Tuned for information about our 80th Anniversary Celebration!

Follow us on Facebook for up to date information!

30

SCHOOLS

Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019

Maxwelltown, according to Ray

BY MARK FEDDER Manistee County Historical Museum

St. Joseph School Location: Sixth and Davis streets First school building constructed: 1885 Second school building constructed: 1897-98 St. Paul’s Lutheran School Location: Fourth and McKee streets Established:1885 Third Ward School/Garfield School Location: First and Hancock streets Established: Circa 1880 Fourth Ward School/Lincoln School Location: Ninth and Kosciuszko streets Constructed: 1872/1880/1882/various additions Lincoln School/CASMAN Academy Location: 225 Ninth St. Dedicated: 1951 Manistee Catholic Central Location: 1200 US-31 Established: 1964

CHURCHES St. Joseph Catholic Church Location: 249 Sixth St. Established: 1885 St. Paul’s Lutheran Church Location: 313 Fourth St. Established: 1881 First Baptist Church/Assembly of God Location: Corner of Fourth and Cypress Established: 1872 Messiah Lutheran Church/Good Shepherd Lutheran Church Location: 521 Cypress St. Messiah Lutheran established: 1884 Good Shepherd established: 1969 Maxwelltown Congregational Church/Vine Street Congregational Church Location: Below Vine Street Hill Established: 1881/1882 The Tabernacle Church — Manistee Campus Location: 77 Hancock St. Established: 2017 in Manistee

MAJOR BUSINESS/ INDUSTRY

A glance at the hands of Ray Fortier and it’s easy to surmise that he’s done a lot of work with them throughout his tenure of 86 years.

Ray’s hands, like any person that has been alive for eight plus decades, are wrinkled, a little rough and somewhat callused.

Like those hands, the Maxwelltown area, the working class neighborhood of Manistee where Ray was born and lived a large span of his long life, is a little worn and rough in spots. The streets that meander among the hills and valleys of that section of the city are somewhat coarse as are some of the homes and buildings that combined together tell the story of Maxwelltown’s industrial past.

As Manistee continued to grow throughout the late-19th century, the population began to spread out to different areas of the city. Between 1880 and 1890, the Northside grew twofold as did the eastern part of the city in an area known as Maxwelltown.

Maxwelltown, named after John C. Maxwell, who, for a short period of time in the 1860s, owned a sawmill (with his partner going by the last name Pundt) and a sizeable portion of the eastern end of town, saw continued growth during the late 1870s, and through the 1880s and 1890s because of the addition of more mills and the discovery of salt.

While Ray’s family dates back to that time period in Manistee, Ray himself was born in 1933 but regardless of the way you look at it, the past is still the past and the memories that come from it are still pretty apparent in the memory of Ray Fortier.

“I grew up in the portion of Maxwelltown which was Vine Street hill about half way up,” recalls Ray. “It was a very friendly neighborhood.”

The memories Ray mentions about living on the hill included the old neighbors that he interacted with on a daily basis.

“Mrs. Borocki, who lived down at the bottom of the hill used to go to the grocery, come back and she used to give us a big bag of apples ... and those apples were always so big and delicious,” he says.

“And then up on top of the hill

One of Maxwelltown’s many saloons was the Salt City Tavern, later the Salty Dog Saloon, located at 1500 Main St.

The Fourth Ward School, later called Lincoln School, was the neighborhood school in the Maxwelltown area. behind Barney Wahr lived two old maids and they would get coal delivered but they wouldn't get it backed up by the house. They would dump it on the bottom so me and the other young kids, 7 years old, would take a wagon put that coal in the wagon and took it up there and put it in their basement and they may give us sometimes a nickel.”

Continues Ray, “We would go down toward the bottom of the hill and there lived the Lipe family and

they had a long string of sidewalk steps going all the way up to the hospital and along there they would have these nice green grapes. Oh were their grapes ever good.”

Even though Manistee was a melting pot of various ethnic groups including Scandinavian, Irish, German, French and Polish, like all cities, often one ethnic group would settle in one specific area in town. As such, Ray fondly recalls the Polish population in Maxwelltown.

Lumber and Salt With the Manistee River Channel leading out into Lake Michigan and into Manistee Lake, the area around Manistee Lake first became home to several sawmill operations and by the early 1880s, salt blocks. Other by-product industries stemming from the sawmill and salt industries popped up as well (i.e., the Manistee Iron Works, various furniture factories, shipbuilding, etc.). In 1898, there were 14 sawmills located around Manistee Lake which sawed 167 million feet of lumber, 290 million shingles and 11 million pieces of lath. Salt barrels produced end to end during that year added up to 935 miles.

The old route of US-31 Over the years, as more and more traffic traveled through the city’s section of US-31 which passed through the Maxwelltown area. Heading south to north, the route at that time began on Nelson Street, down Main Street to

St. Joseph School was formerly located on Sixth Street near the corner of Davis.

After closing it was destroyed by fire in 1978.

Manistee Sesquicentennial | April 2019 “There were a lot of Polish people in my part of town and they were all good cooks,” he says with a laugh.

“You can’t forget that.”

“At around 9-9:30 at night you would see all these Polish women come out of there homes in their housecoats, and they would be going to their neighbor's I suppose for all of the latest gossip. That was a daily routine.”

As mentioned earlier, with the inclusion of several sawmills originally as well as salt factories around Manistee Lake, Maxwelltown located on the eastern portion of the city limits, was a busy place.

“There was always a lot of activity and especially when the highway used to go through that part of town ... just a lot of activity,” remembers Ray. “There were meat markets down there and a couple of taverns and there was a grocery store down on Kosciousko Street. There was also a little grocery store across from where Hardy Salt was. He would charge stuff to you for the month and then at the end of the month you would pay up.

We would always wait for the truck carrying bananas to show up ... a few days later we would get bananas because he would never sell bananas that aren't ripe. He would also give you a little bag of candy, all different kinds of candy.”

“Where the factory where Century Boat was, there was a canning factory and the paper converting company.”

“Then as you got down there where Ruggles and Rademaker used to be changed over to Morton Salt and there was also Hardy Salt Company.

It seemed that they would hire people from around the area and if you were a son of a worker ... you had a good chance of getting in at those places,” says Ray.

31 13th Street, a right on Vine Street, left on Eighth Street to the four way stop sign, down Kosciusko Street, left onto Fifth Street, right onto Sibben Street, left on First Street, right onto Division Street, then a right onto River Street and left onto the highway.

However, it became apparent by the late 1940s that the present route (with all its twists and turns) needed to be changed in order for commuters to pass through in an easier and safer way. Thus a massive, multi-year project bypassed the old route to its present, and straighter, route.

Ruggles & Rademaker After the Buckley and Douglas Lumber Company (located along Manistee Lake in vicinity off Fifth, Sixth and Kosciusko streets) was destroyed by fire, ownership of the property was given to Charles Ruggles who along with John Rademaker, constructed what was referred to as, “The Largest Salt Plant in the World”. While that statement was primarily used as marketing tool, the factory was later sold to Morton Salt.

Morton Salt Location: 180 Sixth St. Established in Manistee: 1930 Ruggles and Rademaker was purchased by Morton Salt In 1930 and since then the factory has remained a staple of Manistee industry.

Longtime Manistee (and Maxwelltown) resident, Ray Fortier was raised in a house located on Vine Street Hill where he continued to live for several decades.

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Glen of Michigan Headquarters: 77 Hancock St. Founded: 1948 While not the first garment factory in Manistee (Goshen Shirt Factory, Manistee Garment Company, Advance Garment and several others predate it), Glen of Michigan was the most well-known. The factory located on Hancock Street eventually became a world-renowned manufacturer of women’s and girl’s garments.

32

Manistee Salt Works/Hardy Salt Location: 1501 Main St. Established: 1932 Established in Manistee in 1932 as the Manistee Salt Works was a subsidiary of the Hardy Salt Company. The factory was later purchased by several different corporations.

EARLY INFLUENTIAL BUSINESSMEN John C. Maxwell A local lumberman who along with his partner Pundt, owned a large swath of property around the far eastern side of Manistee Lake in the city that has become known as Maxwelltown. While Maxwell’s property only originally encompassed a small portion of today’s Maxwelltown, the Vine Street area, a large portion of the eastern portion of the city limits is referred to as Maxwelltown.

William R. Hall A well-known local pharmacist who owned a sizeable pharmacy on Sibben Street and would eventually move his business to River Street.

Thomas Kenney A local businessman who dealt in groceries, coal, and cement, he was also president of the Manistee County Savings Bank and resided on Sibben Street.

Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019 Because Manistee’s population saw a large increase to due to employment at the surrounding the factories, the late 1870s and the early 1880s saw the construction of several schools including the Fourth Ward School (later called Lincoln School) where Ray went from first to seventh grade.

“I used to walk to Lincoln School (the building, bounded by Ninth, Tenth, Ramsdell and Kosciusko, was formerly located where today’s Maxwelltown Park is located near CASMAN Academy) every day,” remembers Ray. “It was a big blocked style kind of building. It was a beautiful building and it was a shame they tore it down.

“I think about the days that when you did something wrong Julia Juitner (music and first and second grade teacher) came with a ruler and 'wham!' give you a couple good wacks,” laughs Ray. “But overall, the old school was good.”

Asking Ray what other memories he can conjure up about living in Maxwelltown, he fondly recalls the halcyon days of bobsledding down Vine Street.

“Winter time they would block off

14th Street, which was right across the road from me. And they would go sliding and they would block off Manistee Street because it was steep.

“I had a bobsled and you could get eight people on that thing.

“I don’t know what relative of ours was rich and gave us that thing but anyway. I would get on it at the top of Vine Street Hill and have a couple of guys down at the bottom watching for traffic, and we would come down that hill and go all the way to Morton Salt,” laughs Ray. Ray would only go to school through the eighth grade. Soon after he was employed at Ideal Dairy and became a milkman for several years before going into the service. After his tour of duty was complete, he continued his job at Ideal Dairy and later at Jerry’s Flowers where he expertly tended to countless (perhaps millions of flowers and plants) until later becoming a guard at Packaging Corporation of America.

In addition, Ray served for a couple of years on Manistee City Council, 20 years on the City Planning Commission and 18 years on the Zoning Board of Appeals ... always having the best interest of the city and his neigh-

borhood at heart.

He finished up his working life at Oak Grove Cemetery, where he continued to tend to the grounds and the flowers until he was 82.

As anyone who lives for a long time can attest, change is inevitable. So as the years go by, the attitudes of what not only made the neighborhood, but the city special also fades away.

“It used to be that there was a togetherness and you would stop and talk a lot to people,” recalls Ray. “And what (the city) did for the community ... it doesn’t seem that way today. Things used to get done ... but today things don’t get done ... look at Memorial Drive,” laughs Ray. After 86 years, the skin on our hands gets worn, it wrinkles, it grows rough as does the time-worn infrastructure of a city. But while our memories may grow hazy, it’s often the good (and random) memories that we keep with us as we age ... the memories of kind neighbors giving us fruit, that meat market or grocery store we would stop at, the gossip of Polish women, of bobsledding down Vine Street Hill and of the old neighborhood that we used to call home.

NOTABLE ARCHITECTURE STILL STANDING St. Joseph Church Location: 249 Sixth St. Constructed: 1885 The congregation (mainly the Polish population of Manistee) that made up St. Joseph Church came together in 1884 for the purposes of breaking away from St. Mary’s Church and forming their own church. Thus, St. Joseph was established in 1885 with the church constructed that same year. In the late 1950s, the church building was renovated and today houses the Divine Mercy Parish, a consolidation of Manistee’s three Catholic congregations.

Manistee Fire Department Location: 281 First St. Constructed: 1888-1889 Designed by noted Saginaw, Michigan architect, F.W. Hollister and constructed in 1888-1889, this structure continues to house the city fire department and is the supposed oldest fire department building in the United States still used for its original purpose.

Mercy Hospital Location: 13th and Kosciusko Street at Vine Dedicated: 1890 Dedicated in January 1890, the hospital building was designed by noted Chicago architect, William LeBaron Jenney. Constructed atop a high hill in the southeastern portion of the city, Mercy Hospital was paid for primarily by lumber baron, John Canfield with the grounds donated by T.J. Ramsdell. The Sisters of Mercy were the primary caregivers and nurses attending to the sick for several decades along with certified physicians. In the 1950s, new building complex was constructed with the old structure torn down.

Construction of the new Lincoln School (today’s CASMAN Academy) that was built right next to the Fourth Ward School. After the new Lincoln School opened, the old was demolished.

Manistee Sesquicentennial | April 2019

33

Mercy Hospital brine baths healed many

BY MARK FEDDER Manistee County Historical Museum

Harold Walsh (left) in charge of the men’s brine bath room at Mercy Community-Hospital, chatted with a bath patient emerging from a shower stall after taking a bath in brine in the late summer of 1956.

The building located on the corner of Division and Filer streets was built in order to provide a home for the mineral baths. That building, called The Manistee Salt and Bath Company, was later renovated into a larger structure called The Briny Inn. However, this particular building was not the only location in Manistee that offered salt and mineral baths.

By the early 1880s a number of Manistee’s prominent lumber barons began to have conversations with the Mother Superior of Mercy Hospital in Big Rapids about constructing a Mercy Hospital (like the one in Big Rapids) in Manistee. After the Mother Superior consulted with the Sisters and Friends of Mercy, it was agreed that if the funds were raised then the Sisters of Mercy would operate the new hospital.

With that in mind, businessman and lumber baron, Michael Engelmann, became the primary chairman for raising funds for the new hospital and began to ask his friends to donate money to the cause. Prominent lumberman, John Canfield came forward with the largest sum of money while T.J. Ramsdell donated the property on which the new hospital would be built.

In 1889 plans had been designed by famous architect William Lebaron Jenney, of Chicago, and the construction of the extravagant building commenced on a hilltop located near the southern end of the city limits. One

year later, after much toil and labor, the dedication of Manistee’s new hospital took place on Jan. 10, 1890.

By the early 1900s, the hospital was known not just as a place for the sick and injured to recover, but also for their brine baths. In 1904, the Sisters of Mercy, as well as the board of directors, decided to put more emphasis on the healing factors of the brine baths and in doing so began referring to the hospital as Mercy Sanitarium.

The hospital received a major renovation as new buildings were constructed for its entire complex in the early 1950s. With this renovation, the brine baths (with the brine pumped directly to the hospital from Morton Salt) continued in more modern accommodations.

An article written by Fred Charlton and published in the Manistee News Advocate on Sept. 5, 1956, provides an interesting first-person account of his own brine bath experience. That original article follows: “Who takes a bath on a busy Friday morning? We don’t, for one, being old fashioned enough to be partial to Saturday nights.

“For the record, we have no aches and pains. Our few muscles are not taut, and no one, even jokingly, has ever accused us of being overweight.

We sleep soundly, eat well and often.

So, generally speaking, our purpose was to undergo an experience. That it was, and we enjoyed every bit of it.

“The experiment posed quite a problem for Harold Walsh, genial masseur and salt bath director. For 30 years Harold has helped patients on the road back to health. Persons

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34 suffering from rheumatism, arthritis, neuritis and general disability have praised his masterful massages while telling of the marvelous curative powers of the Manistee brine.

“So ours of necessity was the short, general course that omitted nothing yet allowed for no concentration on a particular physical problem.

We put ourselves in Harold’s capable hands and followed his advice to ‘just relax.’

“After disrobing in the spotless rest room we were led to the warm reception together with a companion who sweated profusely in the 104-degree moist heat. Our glands must have to warm up to their work, for it was some minutes before the beads of perspiration started, not to stop until lunch.

“Our friend in the other chair was from Lansing. His wife was doubtless perspiring profusely in the twin of ours, part of a twin unit alongside the men’s baths. How had he heard of the Manistee baths? Seems he and his wife had for years enjoyed similar baths in Ft. Lauderdale, Fla. Recently that spa closed, and a friend vacationing in Florida form Grand Rapids recommended Manistee. A small world got smaller; now my new found friend and his wife journey a short way here. ‘Fine place,’ he and wife agreed afterwards. Near home, too!

“Ten minutes in the steam were enough. We had been pre-heated for the deep green brine in our tub, one of five spotless bathtubs in the room.

Not too hot, not just warm, but just right. We continued to sweat as we floated just beneath the surface, our head resting on a towel covered rack, our middle demurely covered with a towel.

“Hot enough to sweat, though, so a pleasant attendant brought a succession of cold towels for our brow.

And asked if we’d like a cold drink of water. We did, several times. About

Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019 40 minutes of floating, physically and mentally at ease, and then Harold started massaging, gently yet firmly – both sides. He flexed every finger, rubbed every muscle with the constant admonition, ‘relax!’ We tried hard but fought back a desire to have some concrete ailment he could work on. We felt we were cheating Harold in the same sense as taking a good medicine when we aren’t sick.

“Harold gave us a rare treat. He opened the cold brine faucet, cooled us off. A rare treat because the heated brine is far more beneficial to most patients. We were just ‘deadheading’, but it did feel fine.

“We dripped our way to Harold’s massage room where we were alcohol rubbed and massaged to a fair-threewell, chatting as we lay prone on the table. Thirty years of helping people’s health is a proud sum, and Harold has every reason to be proud, which he is.

“Off the table and back in the steam-room for another exposure, this time the thermometer read 107 and we were sweating ever so nicely.

We remembered something we had read about sweat glands in a medical book … sweat glands excrete some 30 oz. of water daily (without steam baths), containing about 1/20 part of the nitrogenous body wastes. ‘Excretory rates,’ the quotation continued, ‘may be increased by baths of high temperature.’ Believe us, they are.

“A few minutes of that, and we were treated to dessert — that cold shower we had anticipated so long.

But only after easy stages of hot, warm and less warm. We dried off, surrounded our pink body with the inevitable out-size towel and were dried off to the rest room where we started.

“We had only cooled our surface in the shower. Harold pointed to a bed, wrapped a cotton blanket around us and asked if the open win-

The old Mercy Hospital, circa 1900.

A Morton Salt well, circa 1930s, with Mercy Hospital in the background on the hill. dow next to our bed was ‘too cool?’

By many degrees it was not. But we felt wonderfully refreshed, pampered and not a little drowsy. If we hadn’t chatted with our friend from Lansing alongside, we know we would have joined the other patients in a restful snooze.

“We forgot to try the scales on our way out, to compare the exit weight with the entrance figure. But if we had lost any of our precious pounds, we know they were replaced in the dining room where we were asked to have a delicious lunch with the other patients. Whatever wonders the Manistee brine baths boast, appetite appeasement if not among them!

“About 5,000 baths are given annually at the Mercy-Community Hospital Facility, most of them in courses of 21. The number prescribed differs with the severity and type of ailment. Milder complaints yield to fewer baths.

“The present brine bath facility

was opened in May 1953, replacing smaller, less modern baths which dated back to early hospital days. The efficacy of Manistee brine predates location at the hospital, as history records that a crude brine tub was in use at one of the local salt blocks at the turn of the century.

“We wondered after our morning as ‘bath patient’ why we so often are blinded to the blessings about us.

Why should a Lansing resident learn of Manistee’s brine baths in Florida?

Maybe, as we thought in that warm, relaxing brine bath, we don’t count our blessings often or well enough… nor tell of them far and wide enough afield.”

Once West Shore Hospital was opened in the early 1970s, Mercy Hospital closed its doors but later reopened as the Manistee Heights Care Facility. Today the building is currently occupied by Best Drug Rehabilitation, Inc.

Manistee Sesquicentennial | April 2019

The 'city' within a city

35

BY JANE BOND Staff Writer When it comes to Maxwelltown, nobody is ever short for a story.

There are all kinds of stories about the part of town that borders Manistee Lake, which was once a flourishing area due to U.S. 31 running through the neighborhood.

"Everybody thinks it’s the forgotten section of town nowadays, but at one time when the highway came through here, it was busy," said Paul Kubacki, owner of Herbert Funeral Home. "A lot of the businesses were located here because of the way the highway crossed through us, and people had to travel through here."

Even the name Maxwelltown is subject to a variety of theories from those who live there, some saying the name came from residents drinking Maxwell House coffee on their porches every morning.

However, a look back at the history of Maxwelltown shows that the name came from a lumber baron, John C. Maxwell, who came to Manistee in the 1860s. The Maxwell & Pundt mill opened in 1868, and was located on Manistee Lake.

Although the mill is long gone, the spirit of the area remains in the businesses that still call Maxwelltown home.

"During the logging times, this was the main area with stores, markets, bars and churches," said Jason Coopshaw, co-owner of Stu's

Maxwelltown businesses have a rich history in Manistee, and the section of town was once a popular place to be due to U.S. 31 running through the area. (Jane Bond/News Advocate) Pub. "There’s a lot that’s not here anymore, especially after (U.S. 31) moved."

Stu's Pub is one of the properties that has stood the test of time, with a long history of businesses. Prior to 1911, a building had been constructed on the property that was used as a slaughterhouse. Owned by Charles E. Schewe, the structure burned down on July 6, 1911.

Schewe planned to build a brick

structure to replace it, which eventually became the building in which Stu's Pub now operates.

"The building next door to us was originally the meat market," said Coopshaw. "It turned into a saloon sometime later."

Although the property has been around for a while, it hasn't seen many changes of ownership.

"I think we are the fourth owner, after it turned into a pub," said

Coopshaw. "Stu (Johnston) bought it in 1985 and sold it to us in 2013, and before that my great uncle owned it, which I didn’t know at the time."

Jeff Bladzik, of the Painted Lady Saloon, also had a family connection long before he came to be a co-owner of the restaurant.

"Years ago, my grandfather cleaned for them every morning. I started working there because my girlfriend was

36

Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019

a bartender there, and they became busier and busier and needed extra hands," he said.

"I took to it, and eventually became part owner."

The Painted Lady Saloon, as it has been known for over 30 years, also has a rich history in Maxwelltown. It has held a variety of businesses including a pharmacy, beauty parlor and several different bars.

"It was built in the mid1880s, and became a bar in the 1890s," Bladzik said. "I actually had an ex-police chief come through and he said back in the '40s there was a brothel upstairs."

The Painted Lady Saloon was not the only business involved in illicit activities in the past. Kari Warren, bar manager at the Hi-Way Inn, said the saloon served alcohol during the Prohibition era, under the guise of serving "soft drinks."

The Hi-Way Inn has been a saloon for most of its history, and owner Rusty Manke said they continue to find ways to keep people coming in.

"All of the businesses work together a lot, and we promote every business around here," he said.

The businesses in Maxwelltown have needed to be creative to keep people coming through the area, a far-cry from the popularity of the area in past decades, which business owners attribute to several factories closing over the years.

"When the bars used to be open at 6 or 7 in the morning, people would come in when they got out of their shift work," Coopshaw said. "Legally you can’t do that anymore, so that was a big part of it, but it’s definitely less factory workers now. Back in the day that’s how most of the bars made their money."

Another factor was an aging population of business owners, who lived and worked in the area when the highway brought in a steady flow of traffic.

"The old timers had their homesteads and their businesses started here, and as they got old their kids didn’t continue them," said Kubacki. "There used to be gas stations down here, as well as barber shops and candy shops. A lot of them closed as the area changed."

Even the demographic of the area has changed, according to Kubacki. The older families have been replaced by a younger population, some who are

new to the area.

"There’s a lot of younger people moving into the area now, it’s an older section of town and because of what young people are able to afford, they’ve been moving down here to get starter homes," he said.

Coopshaw said the current customer base is primarily local, although some newcomers will hear about the businesses through social media or word of mouth.

"Being open consistently late, we get a lot of third shift workers from around here, from some of the factories and the hospital," he said. "There’s nowhere else to go that is open that late, and it’s a different atmosphere."

The Maxwelltown businesses have worked together over the years in order to promote the area, and the team effort has allowed them to thrive.

"We’ve reinvested into the places to update them and make them more modern," said Coopshaw. "We have a lot of events going on that would help business, and we all work together and know each other well, which helps out."

Some of the events have included the Maxwelltown Chili Cookoff, the Wee Parade, pool leagues and pub crawls.

"Facebook has been our big media drive, and word of mouth has been huge," said Bladzik. "I look forward to good things down here in the future, because of the good group we have. We work well together, and that’s a big thing."

Bladzik said many people — tourists and residents alike — are not aware of the businesses in Maxwelltown and he is pushing to have a sign installed on the highway to recognize the area.

"Before I owned the Painted Lady, I was going to talk to the state to see what I could do, and I mentioned it to a council member. He told me to forget about it," he said. "I lost faith in it and let it go for a while, but I want to get back to it. I think if we presented our case, we could get somewhere with it."

The business owners in Maxwelltown are united by many factors, but one is their desire to see a revival of their section of Manistee.

"Everybody can find downtown, that’s not a problem," said Bladzik. "But we’re part of this community too, and people enjoy having us here."

Hosting community activities such as the Wee Parade have been one of many ways businesses in Maxwelltown have worked to revive the area.

(Jane Bond/News Advocate)

The Hi-Way Inn is one of several bars that still operate in Maxwelltown.

(Courtesy Photo)

The businesses in Maxwelltown work together to promote the area, which continues to bring people in. (Jane Bond/News Advocate)

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'Greater Manistee' contest looked to the future

BY MARK FEDDER Manistee County Historical Museum

A view of the Manistee Harbor circa early 1900s. In 1901, school children were posed the question, “What will Manistee be like in 25 years?”, the prize winning essay written by Hilda Mortensen describes the activity on the river channel and entering the harbor in 1926.

Hilda Mortensen's winning essay imagined Manistee in 1926.

Pictured are schooners transporting goods along the Manistee River channel in 1926.

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Some Manistee boy or girl will win it and be proud and happy in its possession. The pony is easily worth $40 and can be converted into cash if the winner so desires.”

One of the primary questions we often As the next six weeks progressed every ask ourselves is, “What will the future one of the 63 entrants was published in the bring?”

Daily News until it was announced that On a personal level the potential answers to that question usually make the Hilda Mortensen was the winner. While it was never announced whether or not she cogs of our mind spin until they become took the pony or traded it in for the $40, overheated.

Looking at it on a different level, anoth- her prize winning essay (with 86 votes) was re-published on Nov. 16, 1901, and is again er question local residents may ourselves reprinted here. Hilda’s essay takes the form is, “What will Manistee look like years of a diary entry describing Manistee in the from now?” Will it prosper? Will it fall?

Will there be a proper balance of moderni- year 1926: “August 5, 1926 ty and historic architecture that makes our “Twenty-five years have passed since I town so unique? last saw Manistee. It is now the year 1926.

While those answers are clearly Overcome by the intense longing to see anyone’s guess, it is interesting to find the same question being asked just as the 20th what progress the city has undergone, I am now about to enter the harbor on one of the century was starting and as Manistee’s many first-class lake steamers which run once prosperous lumber industry was between Manistee and all large cities on declining. the Great Lakes.

In September of 1901, the Manistee “Manistee lies on both sides of the Daily News provided an essay contest to Manistee River and now includes within school aged children in which they could its limits Eastlake, Parkdale, Oak Hill and write an essay (to be published in the newspaper) of what they thought Manistee Filertown, giving the city a population of 100,000 inhabitants. I see before me would be like in 25 years. The name of the one of the most excellent harbors in Lake contest was called, “Greater Manistee” Michigan. with the Daily News posing the question: “The piers have been extended, the “Are the school children of the Salt City river deepened, and other improvements interested in a ‘Greater Manistee’?” added, which give the port a more prosThe prize of winning the contest was perous look and make it safer to enter. Lo! a pony which the Manistee Daily News described as such in their issue dated, Sept. What a change! The south bank is simply lined with wholesale buildings and ware24, 1901: houses, four and five stories high, cutting “We have a first class pony, weight about 700, color bay, age 9 years. This pony out the view of the residence portion of the city. On the north bank I behold extensive is the best property a boy or girls could furniture factories, wagon and carriage possibly own. It is gentle as a kitten and factories, railroad car works, as well as without a single bad habit. It is sound in wind and limb and is strong and willing. factories for making farming implements,

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Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019

gas engines, sashes, doors and window blinds. I hear one of my fellow passengers say that flour mills are common in Manistee and her shipbuilding industry can’t be beaten, to say nothing of her advantageous situations for dry docks.

“I glance ahead and see a beautiful structure, a substitute for the old Maple Street Bridge. East of the bridge and situated on the north bank of the river is one of the finest railroad depots in northern Michigan.

“There are many railroads connecting it with all parts of the Union, combine to give Manistee cheap and abundant facilities for transportation.

As Manistee is situated in the fruit belt where peaches, apples, pears, etc. are produced and as it has such great facilities for transportation, it is no wonder that so much commerce is carried on here. But as the steamer passes an almost constant procession of vessels bound for other ports, I am deeply impressed with the great amount of shipping that passes this point. At the steamer’s dock I see a line of express wagons and private vehicles, also a procession of omnibuses which bespeaks for Manistee good livery service.

“Along the wharves I hear the once familiar cry, “Daily News, only one cent.” I purchased a paper (now a model home paper of twelve pages) and looked up the hotel list. Most of the names seem unfamiliar to me, so I selected one of the first, the Dunham House, which I remembered to have been a very respectable hotel. In a few minutes I arrive, and much to my surprise found a hotel, which is able to hold candle to any hotel in the state. It covers a block and is decidedly up to date.

Situated in the business portion of the city, it is largely patronized by traveling men and tourists.

It is not difficult to see that the hotel system in Manistee is now OK. “August 7, 1926 — 8 p.m.

“Today, I visited the lumber mills, tannery and salt blocks. In the production of salt, Manistee ranks first, producing more salt than any other district in the state. And then the lumber mills, what an immense industry! Manistee is one of the chief centers of the lumber industry. There are not two tanneries and this industry is a very important one.

“August 11, 1926 “I have now been in Manistee several days and have become more and more deeply impressed with the great change in the city. Prosperity, prosperity seems to be written everywhere. All the streets have cement sidewalks, all new buildings, including handsome government buildings, public

theaters and auditoriums of music are built on the most improved plans. A very excellent street car service can be had to all parts of the city. The business portion of the city includes a much larger area than formerly, and the streets are being kept in an excellent condition. All unsightly poles and wires are absent on the business streets of the city.

“The public schools of Manistee are magnificent structures, most of them being of brick and surrounded with extensive lawns. The new High School building lately donated by one of Manistee’s most prosperous citizens, and also the public library, are beautiful to behold. In going through the residence portion of the city I wondered at the large number of beautiful newly built residences.

But where there is industry, there is wealth and surely Manistee has her share.

I have also visited Orchard Beach, Manistee’s famous summer resort. Every summer over 4,000 cottagers live here and this number is largely increased on Sunday when many people from the city spend the day there.

Tomorrow I depart, regretfully leaving behind me the prosperous city that was once my home.”

From what we know now, some aspects of Hilda’s prediction for Manistee in 1926 came true as by then, almost all of the old sawmills had ceased operation and the town was far from prosperous. However, by the early 1930s, new, smaller industries helped provide employment to many people that were out of work and the town slowly grew once again but never reaching the heights of wealth and population that it had some many years before.

EDITOR'S NOTE: Here we are, almost 118 years after the Manistee Daily News held its contest asking children to imagine the future of Manistee. Now, as the Manistee News Advocate, in this digital age, we ask you, dear reader, to imagine Manistee 25 years from now. A lot can happen in 25 years, especially with the technology available these days. Will you still be able to pick up a copy of this newspaper as our readers have done for more than a century, or will everything be digital? What will become the new age of "industry" for Manistee? As our population ages, and birth rates decrease less and less young people stay in the area. However, we're told that at the factories — which are still the lifeblood to our community — a new age is coming as one generation will retire and a younger workforce will move in. Will Manistee begin to see a boom once again? Only time will tell...

Hilda Mortensen imagined that by 1926, Manistee would have a new high school building "donated by one of Manistee’s most prosperous citizens," that would be "beautiful to behold." In fact, on March 22, 1926, the framework for what would be the Manistee High School was being erected on Maple Street. The building now still sits empty behind the current Kennedy Elementary School.

By the early 1920s, the Manistee and Northeastern Railroad had come to Manistee.

Celebrating Manistee's sesquicentennial is a year-long event The Manistee County Historical Museum, along with other area businesses and organizations, is hosting a variety of events throughout the year that will help in honoring the past 150 years.

“The museum couldn’t be more excited to celebrate this special year in the city’s history,” said Mark Fedder, executive director of the Manistee County Historical Museum. "We wanted these events to be unique … not only to be educational but also honor the many different aspects of our community. When thinking about what topics to highlight, the museum decided to place emphasis on some of the aspects of the city that don’t always receive the most attention.”

The following events will be taking place throughout the year to mark the celebration: • April 29 — “Bricks, Mortar, Cornices and Corbels” 5:30 p.m. at the The Ramsdell Inn, 399 River St. Tickets went on sale April 1 and are available at TJ’s Pub and the Manistee County Historical Museum. Seating is limited to 40 people Downtown Manistee is known for its beautiful Victorian architecture that creates a unique shopping experience that is complemented by the Manistee River Channel. In the lobby of the Ramsdell Inn, TJ’s Pub will provide appetizers during the presentation that covers the buildings that are part of the Victorian Port City. The presentation will be followed by a walking tour of River Street. The presentation and tour will be presented by Mark Fedder, executive director of the Manistee County Historical Museum. A cash bar will also be available.

• May 15 — “A Walking Tour of the ‘Hill’ Homes: PART 1” 2 p.m. meet at the Manistee County Historical Museum Take a walking tour and learn about the history behind the homes located on Manistee’s west side. Local historian, John Perschbacher will lead the tour that will focus not only on the structures that are still standing but also on the numerous residences that have been lost over the years.

This is strictly a walking tour of the outside of the homes. Wear comfortable walking shoes. There is no cost to this event however, donations will be accepted.

The tour will last 1.5 to two hours.

• June 6 — “Manistee Before Manistee” 6:30 p.m. at Manistee County Historical Museum While the city of Manistee’s sesquicentennial celebrates everything from 1869 onward, what was Manistee like prior to 1869? Former museum director, Steve Harold will cover what was happening in Manistee before the city was incorporated.

There is no cost to this event however, donations will be accepted. Seating is limited in the museum.

• June 26 — “Moments in Manistee’s History” Manistee County Historical Museum The exhibit will begin on June 26 and continue through Sept. 30 A unique photo exhibit at the Manistee County Historical Museum that will explore moments from the city’s last 150 years. Curated from thousands of photographs, this exhibit will display an array of photographs pertaining to buildings and people to fires and events that all played a part in shaping the community we live in

The Glen of Michigan was located on Hancock Street overlooking Manistee Lake, circa 1950s. “How It Was Made: The Past & Present of Manistee’s Industry and Manufacturing” will be presented at 5:30 p.m. on Nov. 4 at North Channel Brewing Co. today. There is a cost for admission to the museum.

• July 6 — “A Peek Inside the Lighthouse” 1-4 p.m. Manistee North Pierhead Lighthouse (off of Fifth Avenue Beach) Take a look inside Manistee’s iconic North Pierhead Lighthouse. While the entire lighthouse will not be open for tours, local historian and former museum director, Steve Harold will be on hand to answer questions about the history of the structure as well as discuss possible future fundraising that will take place in order to restore the interior of the lighthouse.

There is no cost for this event, but donations will be accepted.

• July & August “The Old Churches of Manistee” The Old Kirke Museum, 304 Walnut St. Cost: Donations accepted The Old Churches of Manistee exhibit displays archival and contemporary photographs, artifacts, and brief histories of the churches built in Manistee in its early days as a city. The show is housed alongside the Madsen Lumbering Dioramas in the Museum’s newly developed exhibit space. The Museum is open from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. the first and second Saturday of the month July to October and before and after the 10 a.m. First Person Stories and Songs speakers’ series each Thursday morning in July & August. It is also open

Manistee Sesquicentennial | April 2019

39

“An Evening in the Park” will be presented at 6 p.m. in early August at Rietz Park, which was a popular place to spend a Sunday afternoon at for decades. Pictured is group enjoying what it had to offer in the early 1900s.

“The Old Churches of Manistee” is one of the events that will take place celebrating Manistee's sesquicentennial during July and August at the Old Kirke Museum. The show is housed alongside the Madsen Lumbering Dioramas (pictured) in the museum’s newly developed exhibit space.

other days by chance or by appointment; call John Hanson, (231) 723-2744.

• Early August (check back soon for the official date) — “An Evening in the Park” 6 p.m. at Rietz Park Manistee has some of the most beautiful recreational opportunities in Northern Michigan. The development of these parks is rich in history; discover how they came to be. This presentation is for the entire family — lay a blanket on the ground or bring the lawn chairs and learn the stories behind these parks. The presentation will be provided by Mark Fedder, executive director of the Manistee County Historical Museum. There is no cost for this event, but donations to the museum will be accepted.

• Aug. 21 — “To Maxwelltown & Beyond: A Trolley Tour ” 5 p.m. and 6 p.m. Manistee County Transportation, 180 Memorial Drive An often overlooked part of the city is the area that has been referred to as “Maxwelltown” for generations. This unique neighborhood is one of the most historic areas in all of the city with many buildings that have stood the test of time. Hop

86 Washington St. Seating is limited to 50 people. Tickets are available at the Manistee County Historical Museum and go on sale Oct. 1.

A cash bar will also be available.

While everyone knows how lumber and salt has played an important part of the development of Manistee, this presentation will focus on the other industries and manufacturing that helped develop Manistee over the past 150 years with help from the Manistee Manufactures Council who will talk about current manufacturers. The presentation will be provided by Mark Fedder, executive director of the Manistee County Historical Museum.

• November (An official date has not been selected. Call the Manistee County Historical Museum at (231) 723-5531 for further details) — “Vanderpool & Field Resuscitated” Manistee High School Auditorium, 525 12th St. A joint venture between the Manistee High School Drama Club and the Manistee County Historical Museum, this dramatic interpretation of one of Manistee’s most sensational murder cases will show (and

aboard the trolley at the Manistee County Transportation and explore the history of Maxwelltown.

There will be two trolley tours. Seating capacity is limited to 21 people for each tour. The tour is free however, donations to the museum will be accepted. Tickets will be given out to the first people that RSVP in person at the Manistee County Historical Museum. Tickets on sale July 15.

• Sept. 18 — “A Walking Tour of the ‘Hill’ Homes: PART 2” 2 p.m. meet at the Manistee County Historical Museum Take a walking tour and learn about the history behind the homes located on Manistee’s west side. Local historian, Teena Kracht will lead the tour. This tour is strictly a walking tour of the outside of the homes. Wear walking shoes. There is no cost to this event however, donations will be accepted. Tour will last approximately 1.5 to two hours.

• Nov. 4 — “How It Was Made: The Past & Present of Manistee’s Industry and Manufacturing” 5:30 p.m. North Channel Brewing Co.,

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tell) the mysterious events surrounding the death of Herbert Field presumably by the hands of his business partner, George Vanderpool. Rediscover the most stirring event that took place in the city of Manistee in 1869.

• December — “Wintertime in the City” Manistee County Historical Museum Throughout the month of December (closed Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, New Year’s Eve) A special exhibit of photographs displaying the winter season in the city of Manistee over the last 150 years. Curated from the museum’s archives, this exhibit will feature photographs of buildings, people, fires and various events during the winter seasons of yesteryear. There is a cost for admission to the museum.

For more information on the Sesquicentennial and to purchase tickets for some of the events, contact the Manistee County Historical Museum at (231) 7235531; the museum is located at 425 River St.

383 River St., Downtown Manistee voguetheatremanistee.org n 231-222-5199

40

Supplement to the Manistee News Advocate | April 2019