ISSUE 4, FALL 2021 FREE
What’s in a Name? New Brewery in Norton Shores is Turning Heads Fields of Green Deliver Freshest Brew for Bell’s
Saucy Brew Works Part of the Hot New Mix in Downtown Detroit
Bavarian Inn’s Holz Brücke (German for “wooden bridge”). Photo supplied by Frankenmuth Chamber of Commerce and Convention & Visitors Bureau
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MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
Bring on the Fall brew trail DEAR READERS: Welcome to the fall edition of MiBrew Trail Magazine. As we move into the fall season, the craft brewery industry hardly has time to take a breath from a busy summer! Beer festivals proved to be successful and were filled with enthusiasts looking for a break from the past year’s shutdowns. Breweries across the state found creative ways to fill their outdoor patios, tents
Did You Know?
and even farm fields to serve the craft beer that has made our state famous. Our industry delivered on fun and excitement across the state and good times were had by all! Fall is proving to be as busy as ever as Michigan’s craft beer scene works back to pre-pandemic levels. The craftsmanship and artistry of our industry is in full swing! We hope you enjoy the stories we showcase in this
issue that highlight some of the many, many people with passion for their craft. We are always out on the Michigan Brew Trail looking for the stories to tell of the people, the places and the history of craft beverages. If you know of a story we need to tell, please feel free to reach out and let me know. Cheers! Ed Fritz MiBrew Trail edward.fritz@hearst.com
ED FRITZ
Michigan is fifth in the nation in the number of breweries, microbreweries and brewpubs according to Pure Michigan®. This magazine features just a small selection of the excellent businesses that make up the Michigan Brew industry. To be featured here, contact Ed Fritz at edward.fritz@hearst.com
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in this issue ON THE COVER
16................... Fields of Green 10................... Saucy Brew Works 26................... What’s in a Name?
Mibrew trail Director Ed Fritz Muskegon Editor Kate Hessling Midland Advertising Tony Garant Midland Contributors Jon Becker Auburn
FEATURES 6.....................................St. Julian Winery Celebrates 100 Years of Winemaking 12...................................6 Non-pumpkin Michigan Faall Beers You Must Try 14...................................Meet the Brewer 18...................................European Beer Culture a Hit at New West Michigan Brewery 20...................................It’s a Tour de Force of Breweries at West Michigan Beer Tours 22...................................Better Drinking: Craft Beer Terms to Know 28...................................Limited Options Lead Mitten Brewing to Historic, and Possibly Haunted, Location 30...................................Falling (Get it?) for Great British-style Beers 32...................................KVCC Home to One of the Nation’s Only Brewing Programs 34...................................Did this Kalamazoo College Make the First Student-Brewed Beer to Ever Earn a GABF Medal? 4 | www.MiBrewTrail.com
Karl Klockars Traverse City Amy Sherman Grand Rapids Mike Lerchenfeldt Rochester Hills Design & Layout Emalie Schuberg Big Rapids Cover art Emalie Schuberg Big Rapids MiBrew Trail Magazine is designed and printed in Big Rapids, Michigan For advertising rates and information call: 231592-8334 or email: MiBrewTrail@hearst.com
MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
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St. Julian Winery CELEBRATES 100 YEARS OF WINEMAKING Jon Becker MiBrewTrail A multi-generational family business that has been a leader in putting Michigan on the map for winemaking is celebrating its 100th birthday this year. And when we say “on the map,” we’re talking global in scope and reputation for St. Julian Winery, Michigan’s oldest and largest operating winery. Many would naturally think of California as a prime location for winemaking. They aren’t wrong, but Michigan, led by Paw Paw-based St. Julian Winery, has staked a claim of its own as a premier place to grow grapes. Move over California and make room—Michigan winemaking is on the come-up. Its production facility in Paw Paw is a sight to behold, with thousands of medals adorning its walls. This past spring, 15 additional awards were added to this Wall of Fame. Taking home the gold and “Best of Class” for its 2020 Winemaker Series LaCrescent/Traminette, the iconic winery won a gold medal for its 2017 Braganini Reserve Meritage and also garnered a number of silver medals. “Carrying on the mission of being a pure Michigan winery, St. Julian continues to be committed to Michigan agriculture,” says Nancie Oxley, Vice President of Winemaking at St. Julian Winery. “Proudly, almost all of our wines, ciders and spirits are produced with Michigan grown inputs,” she notes, “keeping true to the roots of the company is important.”
and cream, piney juniper and herb mélange make this a perfect choice for the boldest of cocktails—or simply enjoy its refreshing taste over ice.
and 4th generation family members John Braganini and his wife, Sarah (3rd generation) and his sons, Apollo and Dario Braganini (4th generation). St. Julian built its name and reputation for 100 years now on its wine, but its spirit-making is clearly in a class of its own as well. An array of spirits rounds out the St. Julian Winery & Distillery portfolio including rum, brandy, bourbon, vodka, and gin. St. Julian Michigan Gin, a fine example of the company’s steady ascension as a premier distiller of fine spirits, recently was awarded a Double Gold Award at the Tasters Guild Competition. This intense old world style gin is packed with flavor. Bold, citrusy aromas of lemon oil
“As Michigan’s oldest winery, we have built a strong reputation in the wine industry,” explains Apollo Braganini, “As Michigan’s oldest operating craft distillery, we are gaining more recognition by producing excellent spirits. Our commitment to quality dictates everything we do here at St. Julian, from wines and ciders to spirits.” Experts agree. Their spiced rum just received a gold medal at the 2021 MicroLiquor TM Spirits Awards. “We pride ourselves on having something for everyone at St. Julian,” Braganini explains. For craft beer drinkers, cider may be more complimentary to the palette. The popular Forbidden Fruit cider, which is poured in many arenas, bars and venues throughout the state, is one of the most widely known ciders from Michigan. The serpent adorned tap handle is almost as attention grabbing as the liquid inside. Forbidden Fruit comes in a multitude of flavors.
Today, the company is run by 3rd
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MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
In the spirit of the season, the popular Head Games wine is making a resurgence. This easy drinking wine can be a great starting point for customers looking to expand into the wine realm this fall. St. Julian ships wine and cider throughout Michigan and to several states. They are available in-state at major retailers like Meijer, liquor stores and many other convenience stores. There is a wine finder on its website that indicates the nearest location to where you are to find its products: https://www. stjulian.com/store/wine-finder. Spirits are only sold inside tasting rooms located around the state: Paw Paw, Union Pier, Rockford, Frankenmuth, Dundee and Troy. MI Brew Trail wishes St. Julian a Happy Centennial Birthday and many more to come. 100 years alone in business is remarkable. What makes this birthday bash even more special is the fact that the family business is still around
Volume 4 | Fall 2021
multiple generations later. Consider: Some 13% of family-owned businesses are passed down successfully to a 3rd generation. Only 3% make it to a 4th generation. True to form, St. Julian just keeps getting better with age. “I think it speaks to the incredible loyalty and dedication of the Braganini Family,” says Alyssa Sonnevil, Marketing Director at the winery. “They are fully aware of the family history here and are determined to uphold the legacy of the man who started it all: Mariano Meconi.” St. Julian Winery has been in Paw Paw since 1936 when Meconi moved its operations there from Detroit. And with several of his descendants capably carrying on a long and storied tradition of winemaking excellence, St. Julian Winery is poised to celebrate many more birthdays.
St. Julian’s spicy apple brandy Ingredients: 1 oz. St. Julian Apple Brandy 2 oz. St. Julian Frankenmuth May Wine Forbidden Fruit Original Cider Directions: Fill highball or rocks glass with ice. Add all ingredients and give it a stir. Garnish with a slice of your favorite apple. Enjoy and watch the leaves change or during the football game!
www.MiBrewTrail.com | 7
BUSHELS
Annual amount of barley harvested in Michigan. USADA.gov
MOST POPULAR FALL BEERS MALTED BARLEY
Most common brewing grain followed by wheat, corn, rice, rye, and oats.
Sour Ale Pumpkin Ale Oktoberfestbier
SEPTEMBER
The month Oktoberfest officially starts in Germany.
41+
FRANKENMUTH, MI’S
Beautiful autumn colors of beer.
This was the first Oktoberfest to operate with the blessing of the original in Munich.
BeerMaverick.com
SPARTAN BARLEY
First confirmed
BARLEY BEER
was enjoyed in Iran. Wikipedia
Year of the first
OKTOBERFEIST
in celebration of the marriage of the crown prince of Bavaria.
was developed in 1916 at MSU to adapt to MI’s climate, peeked during prohibition and recently revitalized to brew a truly “All Michigan beer.” Detroit Free Press
Learn all about fall beers, Octoberfest celebrations, and festivities across MI.
Brewmaster? Contact us to feature your brewery on the MiBrew Trail.
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MIBREWTRAIL@HEARST.COM
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MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
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Saucy brew works part of the hot new mix in downtown detroit Jon Becker MiBrewTrail A passion for a vibe you can only find in a big city has brought a Cleveland-based brewery to downtown Detroit. Saucy Brew Works earlier this year opened a new brew pub and coffeehouse in the city’s historic Brush Park district. It’s the first restaurant to locate in Bedrock’s City Modern mixeduse community development.
Saucy Brew Works is part of the revitalization of Detroit’s urban core, having opened a brewpub and coffeehouse in the historic Brush Park Neighborhood.
Detroit, a sports crazed town starving for a winner, struck the Saucy Brew Works brain trust as being an ideal spot for its unique brewery/coffeehouse business that is a short distance away from Ford Field, Little Caesars Arena, Comerica Park and the Fox Theatre. “We chose downtown Detroit after partnering with Bedrock (a commercial real estate firm) whom we were introduced to through our Cleveland Cavaliers partnership,” said Shelby Nicholson, Saucy Brew Works Marketing Director. “It definitely fit our profile in wanting to be a part of a big city urban revitalization. We saw several similarities between our home location in Cleveland and Detroit.” The food and beverage business, a 5,700 square foot space featuring indoor and outdoor seating, appears to be well positioned to serve a growing residential population in the 22-block Brush Park neighborhood.
Merchandise at Saucy Brew Works, a new Detroit Brewpub & Coffee House located in downtown Detroit, a short stroll away from Little Caesars Arena, Comerica Park and Ford Field.
10 | www.MiBrewTrail.com
“We have been working with Bedrock for over a year to
put together an innovative brewery in this great location,” said Brent Zimmerman, Saucy Works Co-Founder and CEO. “We love Detroit and what is going on here has a similar vibe to our hometown of Cleveland. City Modern is a very exciting project that is bringing life to an iconic neighborhood. We’re happy to be part of that.” The old real estate mantra of “location, location, location” certainly applies here. “We are thrilled to have a location that is less than half a mile from Ford Field, Comerica Park and Little Caesars Arena,” said Nicholson. “Being the craft beer partner of the Cleveland Cavaliers, it’s no secret that sports are of great interest to us.” Saucy Works has three other breweries in Ohio. Its expansion into Detroit is its first Michigan location. Given its close proximity to Detroit’s four professional sports franchises, the brewpub could, through its ties to the Red Wings, Tigers, Pistons and Lions, help bridge some of the divisiveness we’re experiencing in these politically-charged times. “We see sports as something that brings people of all walks of life together as a community,” Nicholson said. “We believe a great atmosphere mixed with good beer and dining can do that as well. Mix the two and you’ve got a classic winning recipe.” Saucy Brew Works is co-
owned and operated by its brew master Eric Anderson, a graduate of the Master Brewing Program at the Seibel Institute of Technology, and Brent Zimmerman, who holds degrees from Miami University and the Weatherhead School of Management at Case Western Reserve University. Both are longtime beer enthusiasts with a penchant for the unconventional and a fanatical dedication to precision and quality. For instance, Saucy has purchased a turnkey system from BraunKon, a German manufacturer whose brewery systems can be found at breweries in 62 countries around the world. It’s efficient, exact and eliminates waste and is completely stainless steel-- from the tanks through the draft lines, allowing it to deliver the clean, pure flavor of great tasting beer—every time. German engineering at its finest. The brew pub, whose food specialties include a variety of baked chicken wings and its signature thin-crust apizza, the restaurant’s take on New Haven-style pizza, offer promotions specific to each of Detroit’s professional sports teams when they are hosting home games. ‘Right now, every fan who attends a Lions home game can bring their ticket to the brew pub and receive half-off a signature apizza,” Nicholson said. “My personal favorites include the Nashville Hot Chicken, beSee Saucy Brew on 40
MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
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S Upper Hand Brewing has their seasonal Deer Camp on shelves now. A nod to the classic Michigan tradition of opening day for deer season, it’s an easy-drinking ale.
6 non-pumpkin Michigan fall beers you must try Amy Sherman MiBrewTrail It’s fall y’all, and that means it’s time to switch up what’s in your glass. Every season brings new brews to try, and old seasonal favorites to revisit. As the weather turns chilly, and the days grow shorter, we tend to move to darker, more robust beers that can warm us up from the inside out and keep our taste buds happy. Here are seven beers to quaff this autumn season, from classic offerings from well-established breweries to seasonal favorites that only come
around once a year, and brand-new offerings to try for the first time. And not that there is anything wrong with a well-made pumpkin beer, but these are not that. Happy drinking Michigan. Short’s Brewing Company Super Delicious Stout is a new, lovely alternative to thick and sticky barrel aged bombs. It is a light option when you are craving those roasty, coffee and chocolate notes, but don’t want all the alcohol that those BA beers offer. Super Delicious comes in at a very mellow 4.4% ABV, which I would consider a session stout, and that means you can enjoy more than one.
12 | www.MiBrewTrail.com
The other thing I love about this beer is that it’s a nitro stout, so pour it in your pint glass to enjoy that super creamy foam that is the trademark of this style. I’m also planning to keep this on hand throughout the season to add a kick of Short’s flavor to some of my favorite dishes. Add a can to your chili, braise some short ribs in it, or add to French onion soup, you’ll be amazed at the depth of flavor a beer like this can add to your cooking. Balanced with just the right amount of hops, this full flavored, but easy drinking stout is quintessential autumn drinking. Keep on the lookout for two new variety packs from
Cheboygan Brewing- A new offering from Cheboygan Brewing is their Oatmeal Cookie Stout.
MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
Short’s Brewing- Super Delicious Stout is a new, lower ABV nitro stout from Short’s Brewing Company.
Short’s, a super hoppy holiday pack out in October, and the ‘tried and true’ pack which will arrive in November. A new offering from Cheboygan Brewing Company is their Oatmeal Cookie Stout, which is going to be available in limited release throughout the state in cans and on draft. The brewery describes this beer “as just like your grandma used to make”, which we can totally get behind. The generous use of malt gives the beer both its deep color and rich body. The addition of flaked oats rounds out the mouthfeel. This beer is a touch sweet, but not cloying. I love the idea having a pint of this stout in the afternoon, and remembering when life was simpler, and all you had to worry about was finishing your after-school snack of cookies and doing your homework. Take me back for just a minute, Cheboygan. A very seasonal, and very Michigan beer is Deer Camp from Upper Hand Brewing. A sister brewery to Bell’s, Upper Hand is Larry Bell’s love letter to the Upper Peninsula, served up in liquid form. Upper Hand opened in Escanaba in 2013, and at first their beer was only available above the Mighty Mac. That changed this year, and you will now find Upper Hand throughout the state. Deer Camp is described “as crisp as opening day” and is a nod to this classic Michigan fall tradition enjoyed by so many. I’ve found it to be
Volume 4 | Fall 2021
very nice, light drinking with its low 15 IBUs, and it’s easy to imagine enjoying one around the fire after a long day in the woods. Also, be on the lookout for the new beer release from these guys with the same camp theme, Red Buck IPA. My favorite beer from Founders is their traditional, yet exceptional, porter. I tend to drink seasonally, and I save this beer to be enjoyed only once the leaves have started to turn, and that first autumn chill hits our shores. I’m always excited to crack my first one open, my mouth starts watering just thinking about this excellent rendition of such a classic style. Billed as “dark, rich, and sexy” it lives up to its hype. The porter pours a deep, dark, opaque black, with just a touch of a creamy head. Big notes of chocolate, and lots of caramelly malt contrast so nicely with the robust use of hops. No adjuncts, no extracts, no gimmicks. Another great beer to cook with, the porter will be put to use this season in dishes like milk and beer braised pork, used to enhance a chocolate layer cake, and poured into frijoles borrachos. Lucky for you it is available year-round.
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MEET THE BREWER:
Gary Marshall Mike Lerchenfeldt MiBrew Trail Gary Marshall is the co-owner and head brewer at Cadillac Straits Brewing Company in Madison Heights (not Cadillac). Gary is said to be a dedicated and happy family man who puts his time into high quality, craft brewing. He stays busy creating pilot batches of various beer styles every couple weeks. Madison Heights goes by the motto, “the city of progress”. This cool city was completely supportive to the plans of Gary, and his business partner, Gordie Davignon, to open the city’s first brewery in their lively community. It is still the city’s only and undisputed best brewery. Naming the brewery Cadillac Straits was Gary and Gordie’s homage to the area without calling themselves Detroit, since they are technically located in the suburbs. Antoine de la mothe Cadillac, a French military leader and trader, was the founder of Detroit. Strait is the word Detroit translated from French. In 2004, Gary graduated with computer science and accounting degrees from Oakland University (OU). While working as a software developer for credit unions in Michigan, he became annoyed with corporate America and decided to do something different with his life. When Gary became interested in craft brewing, his wife, Keri, bought him a homebrewing kit. He eventually decided to join the Kuhnhenn Guild of Brewers (KGB), a homebrewing club in Warren, and later served as their president. In 2017, Gary met Gordie at the National Homebrew Conference (Homebrew Con) in Indianapolis, a one-of-a-kind gathering exclusively for members of the American Homebrewers Association. They
both realized that they had the same vision, which led them to the decision of opening a brewery together. In 2019, the brewery opened their doors to the public. Gary and Gordie created a pro-kid, family-friendly environment offering one of the best root beers. They have a dynamic kitchen with a menu featuring nachos, boneless wings, and flatbread pizza. There is team trivia during the week and live music on some weekends. Whether in-person or on social media, Gary feels a sense of pride when he hears or sees people talking or posting about the beer (or root beer) that he created while they are hanging out and enjoying themselves at the brewery. His best seller is Tough Eddy; an India Pale Ale (IPA) with a ton of Citra hops giving it a strong, yet smooth floral and citrus flavor. This brew is his take on the Midwest style making it somewhere in between a New England and West Coast IPA. Customers also enjoy the pink, easy-drinking Flower Power. It is a hibiscus Belgian Witbier brewed with unmalted wheat. His MadisonBrau was wildly successful, too. This brew is his take on the classic Märzen lager, traditionally served at Oktoberfest. It is made from old world, German malts and hops. Gary is doing what he loves and is following his passions. He absolutely loves the recipe creation and the beginning to end process from ingredients to beer. Being able to write a recipe and create something different out of raw grains that people can enjoy is a great feeling. Gary’s favorite beer style to make and drink is the New England IPA because he likes to experiment with various types of hops. He often
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MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
uses hops and other ingredients from their attached homebrew store, The Supply House at Cadillac Straits. It is a one-stop shop for homebrew supplies. He is creative with his beers and thinks outside the box, which allows their brewery to always have a rotation of taps. Gary is a great role model for anyone interested in learning more about brewing some ale or a career in the craft beer industry. The other small breweries out there, such as Urbanrest Brewing Company in Ferndale, that are chugging along and making excellent beers inspire him. They lift each other up and support one another with the challenges of trying to stay relevant in the sea of craft brewers. When he is not brewing, Gary likes to bike ride and spend time in the outdoors with his two daughters. Their family enjoys going up north together to the beaches of Houghton Lake, which happens to be the largest inland lake in Michigan. Gary is a proud member of the Michigan Brewers Guild, and he will be participating in their Detroit Fall Beer Festival at Eastern Market. Cadillac Straits Brewing Company is exceptional and worth putting on the fall to-do list.
Volume 4 | Fall 2021
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Fields of green deliver freshest brew for Bell’s Brewery Workers sort the freshly picked hops right in the hopyard at Bell’s Brewery in Comstock. The hops will be featured in three Sideyard beers this fall.
Amy Sherman MiBrewTrail Green. That’s what was flooding through my brain during a recent tour of Bell’s Brewery 2-acre hopyard, which was awash in employees helping to harvest their homegrown hops. Three special beers will be made from these locally produced hops, and let me tell you, the freshness was downright mouthwatering. I might have even rubbed a few cones behind my ears as a form of beer fan perfume, so I smelled like Crystal hop magic the rest of the day. “Using fresh, locally grown hops has a long tradition here at the brewery,” Larry Bell, president and founder of Bell’s said in a press release.
Hops grow up trellises at Bell’s Brewery in Comstock.
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Walking through a hop field that is about to be harvested is pretty amazing. Hop bines grow up a trellis system to float and sway about 20 feet up. The green leaves rustle in the wind, while the compact little cones emit quite the fragrance as you traverse the organized rows. The terms can be a bit
when discussing hops. They might look like vines growing skyward, but they are actually referred to as bines. Why the different names? A bine has no tendrils coming out of it, while a vine does. Many people refer to these interchangeably, but there is a difference. If you want to sound like a pro, use the term bine when discussing hops. Remember that beer uses bines, while wine uses vines. Hops are one of the building blocks for beer, alongside water, malt and yeast. They provide that much needed, and loved, bit of bitterness that offsets the sweetness of the malt. Bell’s started growing their own hops around 10 years ago. And while they aren’t growing anywhere close to enough for the brewery’s yearly production, the brewing staff loves that they can have an up close and personal hop experience. “We recognize that we are deeply integrated with agriculture, but yet that’s not evident,” said John Mallett, vice president of operations at Bell’s Brewery. He continued to explain how you
might see a chicken breast at the grocery store, but might not really know all that went into getting it in the package, and eventually on your dinner plate. Bell’s wants to make sure that their staff knows, and understands, the whole process of brewing beer. “We want to fully understand the restrictions and challenges of all of our business partners out there,” Mallett said. “Whether that is upstream to our hop partners, or downstream to our distributing partners, it’s super important.” “When we are sourcing our hops, we deal with setting up contracts with our farmers, but also with merchants, who deal with multiple sources,” Mallett continued. “The benefit to merchants is that we can source from multiple areas.” Bell’s sends specially printed placards each year to all of the farms that supply the brewery hops. “We’ll make up about 30 or 40 signs for our farmers, they’ll go to Idaho, Oregon, we’ll send some to Michigan,” Mallett said. “We’re mainly with MI Local here. They have, unequivocally, the best hop operation in the Midwest. Unfortunately, it’s
MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
Freshly picked hops from Bell’s very own hopyard located next to their production brewery in Comstock. These will be used in their three upcoming Sideyard beers.
“
Using fresh, locally grown hops has a long tradition here at the brewery.
just not enough for what we need.” Bell’s has no desire or interest in getting into the hop farming business. “Honestly, we would totally fail at growing hops,” said Mallett. “It’s hard and we’re not very good at it. Well, we’re ok at it.” Just not at the level that they need for the very large production capacity that they are at. “Our employees have always come together to help with the harvest,” Bell said. “Over the last few years, our Land Stewards have put in a lot of hard work to cultivate and make this Hop Yard what it is today. It may not compare in size to our partners out west, but that dedication to quality is still very much the same.” “It makes us so much more savvy as purchasers,” Mallett explained about growing hops at the brewery. “That selection process is about assessing individual lots.” Breweries hope to get the very best hops each year, but picking hops is
Volume 4 | Fall 2021
”
pretty subjective. Everyone has their own idea of the best, and those ideas might not always align together. Bell’s employs a scientific standardized sensory analogy to assess the hops. What does this mean? It means the team picking the hops uses the same predetermined terminology to describe the product, so they have a baseline to fall back on. Consistency is the key to a truly great beer, and brewers have to hit the same notes, year after year, all while using an agricultural product that can be anything but consistent. The Bell’s team, which in addition to Mallett, also includes Andy Farrell, brewing innovation manager at Bell’s, works closely together to purchase the yearly hop allotment. “It’s very specific each year,” said Mallett. “This is hop profile that we want, and that’s a unique opportunity.” The team travels out West each harvest season to the Yakima Valley to purchase the massive amounts of See Bell’s Brewery on 39
Freshly picked hops get dumped into the wort at Bell’s Brewery. The Sideyard beers are being brewed in the experimental brewery, which has a much smaller capacity than the regular production brewery.
www.MiBrewTrail.com | 17
European Beer Culture a Hit at New West Michigan Brewery Jon Becker MiBrewTrail One of the many elements that make Michigan’s exploding craft beer industry so fascinating --and such a wonderful experience for microbrew lovers who visit any one of its hundreds of breweries--is the eclectic makeup of its owners and operators. The state’s beer scene could be a study in diversity and varied cultures. People have come from as far west as California and as far east as Europe to set up shop in Michigan. They’ve given up job security, familiar surroundings and left family and friends to face down the fear of the unknown because they are guided by their hearts. And their hearts tell them that being part of a social phenomenon, a culture that brings people together over a pint and a bite, is too alluring to ignore. There’s a couple from Brazil by way of Germany that represent the very best of what Michigan’s beer community can be all about. Linus and Renata De Paoli, both former engineers for a Big 3 automaker, are introducing a variety of international food and beer at their new brewery in Wyoming, 3 Gatos Brewery. The married couple moved to the West Michigan City in late 2020 to open the brewery after buying and then revamping the Kitzingen Brewery.
The logo for 3 Gatos Brewery, a new established owned and operated by Linus and Renata De Paoli, in Wyoming. The couple drew its inspiration for its eye-catching logo from their 3 beloved cats that they adopted in their native Brazil a decade ago and are part of their family to this day. “The name came to us before we knew we were coming to West Michigan,” explained Linus De Paoli. “At the time we were thinking about doing a brewery in Europe. So it needed to be in a language that most Europeans understand. Hence Spanish but also Portugese as Gatos (cat) means the same in both languages.”
Born and raised in San Paulo, “We never in our wildest dreams think we would be running a brewery in West Michigan,” said Linus De Paoli. Now that they are, the De Paolis have implemented a decidedly European flavor to their business, both in the beers they brew and serve, to the food they prepare and serve. “Our experience so far is that people are curious and willing to try different things,” said De Paoli. “For us, European Beer Culture is about history See european on 38
18 | www.MiBrewTrail.com
MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
Serving all of Northern Michigan & Beyond
Klawuhn Law P.C.
PETOSKEY CRIMINAL DEFENSE ATTORNEY EXPERIENCE - THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE CALL FOR CONSULTATION 231.347.4300 2115 US 31 North Petoskey, Michigan 49770 Volume 4 | Fall 2021
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A group of West Michigan Beer Tours guests on a walking tour of downtown Kalamazoo Breweries hoist beer samples while on a production tour of one of the breweries. Founded in 2013 by John Liberty and Aric Faber, the company provides public and private guided tours to the many breweries in one of the best craft beer regions in the world.
IT’S A TOUR DE FORCE OF BREWERIES AT WEST MICHIGAN BEER TOURS Jon Becker MiBrewTrail
West Michigan areas. They include Kalamazoo, Grand Rapids, Muskegon, Holland, Benton Harbor, St. Joseph, among other locales.
General manager John Liberty and company bill their West Michigan Beer Tours as a backstage pass to one of the fastest growing and most inventive industries in Michigan. Guests simply call it a lot of fun, often remarking on how enjoyable it is to meet the names, faces and stories behind Michigan craft beer. The experience is helped immeasurably when you realize that you’re getting an up close and personal look at some of the finest breweries in the world--located right here in West Michigan!
“More often than not, our guests respond overwhelmingly positively to hearing directly from the people behind the beer,” Liberty, who wrote about the state’s beer industry from 2007-2013 for the Kalamazoo Gazette and MLive Media Group, said. “They enjoy getting to know the stories behind what launched certain brewers and a bit about what inspired recipes or beer names. Customers also appreciate the degree of work and dedication required to make a brewery function at a high level.”
Based in Kalamazoo, West Michigan Beer Tours, led by business partners Liberty and Aric Faber, provide public and private brewing tours (bus and walking) for groups of all ages in several
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The genesis for West Michigan Beer Tours dates back to the summer of 2012 when Liberty and Faber, over a pint or two, talked about local beer following a Wiffle League game. They kicked around the idea of a beer
bus that could help people safely enjoy their favorite West Michigan breweries. At the time, the two were both working full-time and held periodic bus tours and occasional walking tours in downtown Kalamazoo. They also took on private tour requests in those early days. “We had a good idea of what was ahead of us, but we learned a lot about the region’s tourism industry through starting the beer tour company,” Liberty said. The company has since grown its service to include corporate outings, conference entertainment, specialty bus tours, year-round walking tours in multiple cities, as well as serving as a resource for regional beer news and connections. See Tour de force on 40
John Liberty, shown here, is co-founder/general manager of West Michigan Beer Tours. The Kalamazoo-based company, fronted by lovers of the state’s craft beer industry, offer both public and private bus tours of the fantastic breweries located throughout West Michigan.
MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
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Volume 4 | Fall 2021
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Better Drinking: CRAFT BEER TERMS TO KNOW Amy Sherman MiBrewTrail New to the Michigan craft beer scene? Welcome! It can be a bit intimidating at first to stare down a 50 plus tap list at your local watering hole and have no idea what kind of beer to order, or what half the descriptions even mean. Understanding a few basic terms can go a long way to making your craft beer experience extra enjoyable. We are here to help. First and foremost, if you are at a Michigan brewery, and have a question about a beer, ask it! Brewery employees are typically well trained in the beers that they are serving and are more than happy to help guide you along. They want you to find a beer that you like. That guy you just sat down next to at the bar?
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Session ale
Lagers are kind of the holy grail to brewers in a sense. Brewed with a bottom fermenting yeast, they take time and skill to pull off successfully. Not only do you need special refrigeration to get your beer down to the proper temperature for fermentation (between 48 and 58 degrees), but a lager beer also takes extra time to reach perfection. Time equals money in the brewing world, so while light lagers are the kings of the macro beer world, they are harder to find from small breweries, but worth seeking out. The beauty of a real, well-crafted lager beer is in the crisp, clean results. With nothing to hide behind, a lager can show off the true talents of the brewer.
Still referencing the ABV, session ales are the lower alcohol versions of your favorite styles. These might pop in at around a mere 4% ABV, for extremely crushable beers. Sometimes lovingly referred to as “lawnmower beers” these are ones you can drink all day, and still maintain. Increasingly popular, you have probably heard of top session beers like Founder’s All Day IPA, and Bell’s Light Hearted. Also, check out the new Little Piglet from New Holland Brewing.
He is probably also super into beer, and almost always would love to talk about it. The girl you just met with the “Drink Local” shirt on? She is your new best friend, and beer educator. The beer community is truly a welcoming group, so do not be shy. We will start off with the terms that are the basic of basics, and that just makes them all the more important to know. These are the building blocks of what makes that liquid in your glass, and some of the most common terms you might find on a beer menu. We have also included some terms that are a little more advanced, and a few that might stump even a seasoned craft beer drinker. Everybody can use a little more knowledge, right? So read on and get ready for better drinking.
Ale This might seem extra basic, because you might be thinking that all beer is considered ale, but that’s not the case. Beer is divided into two categories, ale and lager. These aren’t styles, like a porter or a pale ale. The difference between an ale and a lager is determined by the type of yeast used to brew the beer, as well as the temperature
Lager
and time it takes the beer to ferment. An ale is made with a top-fermenting yeast that does its best work at warmer temperatures, think between 60- and 78-degrees Fahrenheit. An ale typically is a richer, more full-flavored beer. You might catch notes of the yeast used in these beers. Most of the
Abv This is one you really want to pay attention to, so you do not get surprised a few drinks in. ABV stands for alcohol by volume, which will tell you just how boozy your beer is. If you are unfamiliar with ABV, a typical mass market beer, like a Bud or Miller Lite, clock in at around 5% ABV. Craft beers can range all over the place, from a nice light session beer that might be an easy drinking 3.5%, to big barrel aged beauties that could go upwards of 12%. The higher the ABV, the quicker you’ll be feeling alright, alright, alright.
craft beer you will be drinking in Michigan is an ale. They are quicker to brew, and require no special cold storage, which means that for most breweries they are not only more practical, but also more economical. They are also delicious, and incredibly varied in flavor. Everything from IPA’s to stouts are typically ales.
high gravity Ale The polar opposite of a session beer, high gravity ales clock in with a bit of a punch and need to be consumed with a sense of caution and control. These are the big dogs, the beers that are coming in at extra high ABV’s, like over 8% or so. Where does the term “high gravity” come from? It reflects part of the brewing process, when the wort (which is the original little blend of malt and water that gets cooking to start the beer making process) gets its gravity measured. Gravity reflects the amount of alcohol that the resulting beer will have, and it is referred to in degrees of Plato. A high gravity beer would have a wort that measures over 14 degrees Plato. That is a lot of technical, brewing mumble jumble. What you really need to know is that if a beer is labeled high gravity (and these styles might include Belgian tripels, barley wines or German style bocks) it is going to be a boozy beast. Sip slowly and savor the deep rich flavor that these beers usually have.
Flights are an ideal way for a newcomer to sample the varieties of beer offered by Michigan craft brewers.
MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
ibu
hops
This term seems simple at the onset but becomes a bit more complicated as you explore assorted styles. IBU stands for International Bittering Units and is a chemical way to measure how bitter a beer might be. Hops, one of the four basic ingredients in beer, determine the IBUs, and the resulting yummy bitterness. IBU’s can run from a standard macro beer like a Bud Light that comes in at a super low 6 IBU’s to infinity. Since everyone’s taste buds are different, IBU’s should be used just as a basic guideline. There are many other factors that come into play with perceived bitterness. A double IPA might be listed as registering 90 IBUs but might taste less bitter than a pale ale that comes in at 55 IBUs. A great beer is all about balance, and that double IPA offsets all those hoppy notes with the addition of more sweet malt. Brewers use IBU’s as a technical way to measure where a beer falls on the scale, your personal taste buds will determine how you perceive the IBU’s.
Another of the essential building blocks of a beer, hops join water, malt and yeast to create the fermented liquid that we all love. The gorgeous green cones of the Humulus lupulus plant create that perfect balance of bitterness to offset the base sweetness set by the malt. Not only do hops create flavor, they also are the main source of aroma for a beer, a key role to play. The beautiful thing about hops is that there are like a thousand different varieties, and each and every one offers completely unique flavor and aroma profiles. You might see things on a beer menu referring to Citra hops (grapefruit and citrus notes), Chinook (pine), Saaz (classic spice), or my favorite hop, Amarillo (flowerly, citrusy). Some beers might only use one type of hops, while most get the addition of multiple varieties. Hops can be added at multiple stages of the brew process, with different results at each stage. If you want to spark a conversation at your local brewery, just bring up hops, and you will instantly be in the thick of things.
malt This the building block of all beer, literally the base ingredient right after water. Malt can refer to any toasted cereal grain, from barley, to wheat, oats, or rye. The malt is dried, then sprinkled with water to cause germination, and then toasted. The malt can be toasted to a light golden color to be used in pale ales, or to a chocolate brown color to be used in beers like stouts and porters. When boiled in water, malt creates the necessary sugars and enzymes needed to make beer. Most beers are based on barley, but you will find specific examples of other grains being used. Ever hear of Bell’s Oberon? That beer is brewed with wheat. Soon to open Brewery Nyx in Grand Rapids will be Michigan’s first gluten-free brewery, they will be using grains like amaranth and quinoa to brew their beers.
Malt can refer to any toasted cereal grain, from barley, to wheat, oats, or rye.
Volume 4 | Fall 2021
The understanding of beer terminology can help beer enthusiasts understand the reason behind the differences of a stout to an IPA.
barrels
yeast
This term is used in two ways in the brewing world. A barrel is a wooden vessel that is used to age beer (or other liquids) in. They can be brand new wood, or wood that has already held a liquid, like bourbon. The barrel imparts special flavor to the beer, and they can also be inoculated to cause fermentation to happen. The other use of the term barrel is as a standard of measurement. A barrel is equal to 31 gallons. When discussing the size of a brewery, or an expansion in their equipment, it is usually referenced as the number of barrels that they can or have produced. For example, mid-size Brewery Vivant in Grand Rapids produces around 6,000 barrels of beer a year, while Bells is over 500,000 barrels. Other fun terms with barrels: the bung is the stopper that gets pounded into the bung hole, which is the round hole on the side of the barrel.
Yeast is a wily wild card in the brewing process, eating up the sugars from the malt, and spitting out alcohol and carbon dioxide. Without it, you would be drinking a sad soup. With it, you have got a fizzy, tasty alcoholic beverage. There are two styles of yeast, ale and lager. And just like hops, there are all sorts of different yeasts to use in brewing, and each imparts its own flavors to the beer. If you are interested in really getting into yeast, I recommend grabbing some Belgian style ales to try, like some of Brewery Vivant’s offerings. Those distinct flavors, like clove, banana, and spice are derived from their use of yeast. We even have a local Michigan yeast culture that is available for brewers from the Houghton based Craft Cultures. Owner (and microbiologist) Emily Geiger collects wild yeast from around the U.P., and then purifies the strain for use in brewing. Stormcloud Brewing, New Holland and Rockford Brewing are just some who have used her local yeasts in beers.
Hops are an essential building block of beer and the fermentation process.
wort The original beer “soup” so to say, wort is the very start of a beer. When the water is combined with the malt, hops are added, and the mixture is boiled, the resulting liquid is wort. If you tasted it at this stage, it would be sweet, slightly bitter, and totally flat. After the yeast gets added, the wort starts to ferment, and eventually, you have beer.
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SERIOUSLY, WHAT ARE THEY TALKING ABOUT WITH THESE? whale
reinheitsgebot
cicerone
juice bomb
This term refers to super rare or hard to find beers. When one acquires one of these gems, it is cause for celebration, and of course, beer bragging. A white whale is the rarest of rare beers, ones that people will search for, wait for days in line for, and make ridiculous trades for. I always wonder if there is as much satisfaction in drinking a white whale, as there is finding them and then letting everyone know about it.
A bit of a mouthful to say, but an important part of brewing history. Essentially, it’s a German beer purity order, that had its roots in medieval Germany, and was adopted by law in Bavaria in 1516. According to the ruling, only three ingredients could be used in beer brewing, water, barley and hops. Yeast, an essential ingredient, was not listed because at that time it was just transferred from batch to batch. It is currently considered part of the purity promise. The point of this ruling was to make sure that barley was available for beer, while bakers could have access to wheat and rye. There is a whole lot of history around this term, but what you’ll see current day are breweries who follow this code very proudly proclaiming it. With just four ingredients, and no additives, extracts, fruit additions or who knows what else, the brewer must truly rely on high quality ingredients and their own talent. It has become a bit of a marketing tool for some breweries, which is totally cool. Here in Michigan, check out Cedar Springs Brewing. They brew many of their German style beers following this tradition.
Part of a series of certifications for beer and hospitality professionals that shows they have reached certain levels of knowledge about the serving, making, and tasting of beer. It is seriously a pretty cool way to prove your beer knowledge, and it can also be serious as you move through the different levels. The first level is ‘Certified Beer Server’, and this is an achievement that many breweries, brew pubs, and restaurant workers achieve. Then you move to ‘Certified Cicerone,’ ‘Advanced Cicerone,’ and the grand master of them all, ‘Master Cicerone.’ The more advanced levels can require months and even years of study and tasting before you attempt the test. Topics you will need to become an expert in are the serving of beer, beer styles, flavor and evaluation, ingredients and production, and pairing beer with food. Note, it’s pronounced ‘sis-uh-rohn’ so you do not sound like a noob.
This is a popular one, usually reserved for discussing New England IPA’s or hazy IPA’s. It refers to all the fruit notes you might be experiencing, like grapefruit, tangerine, lemon, lime, or even notes of pineapple, mango, or guava. Want to sound like you know what you are talking about? Take a sip and exclaim “What a juice bomb!”
collab Short for collaboration, these are beers that are brewed between two or more entities together. You will see these on menus all over Michigan, as they have become exceedingly popular. It might be two different breweries working together on a recipe, and then brewing up matching batches at each of their own breweries. It might be a brewer from one brewery heading on over to another to work on a beer together. It might be a company working with a brewery to combine forces to create something new and amazing. Blis Gourmet, a barrel aging food company based in Grand Rapids partnered with Transient Ales in Bridgeman to brew up a beer called Life is Sticky, a barley wine that then got aged in Blis maple bourbon barrels.
bugs No, this does not refer to any actual bugs like spiders or flies in your beer. It’s an affectionate term for the wild strains of yeast that help to create sour beers. Good bugs help ferment the wort into something altogether new. Not always as controllable as conventional yeast strains, ‘bugs’ are part of the wild west of brewing.
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Ticking With the onslaught of beer apps that help you keep track of what you have tasted, there is also the new sport of ‘ticking’. This refers to getting to check off a beer on your list on apps like UNTAPPD. Create your bucket list of brews, then start ticking them off. I’ll be honest here, I stopped using UNTAPPD years ago, when I had reached level 42 for early morning riser and was feeling a little self-conscious. Trust me, it was just because I did a lot of morning television spots. Maybe.
Drain Pour Really it is quite simple, but also many times downright heartbreaking. A drain pour is a beer that you opened, tasted, and disliked. It might be skunked, old and flat, suffering an infection, or just something you do not like the taste of. Some drinkers seem to get off on showing off on social media the beers they pour out, especially if it’s whale, which I honestly do not understand. Any beer poured down the drain is like a death in the family in my book but is sometimes just necessary. Life is too short to not drink good beer, so if something is off, or it is just not your jam, move on.
While it is not by design, the craft beer scene can sometimes be overwhelming without some understanding of the basics.
So, there you have it, just a little bit of basic information to help you embark on your craft beer journey. Happy tasting!
MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
take the scenic route to happy hour
It’s where everything comes together. Where you can explore the great outdoors before discovering a great craft brewery. Where celebrations begin with a gorgeous view and end with the perfect pint. Where you can raise a glass to a pretty great place.
TraverseCity.com
Volume 4 | Fall 2021
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What’s in a Name? SALTY PECKER BEGINS NEW BREWERY JOURNEY IN NORTON SHORES Jon Becker MiBrewTrail Norton Shores, a scenic small town on the shores of Lake Michigan, has a new addition to the landscape that causes heads to turn and smiling conversations to begin. The source of the excitement in West Michigan is Salty Pecker Brewing Company, a family-owned microbrewery that opened its doors on September 2. The husband wife team of Derek and Jennifer Olsen, longtime home brewers, are now living their dream as proud proprietors of their own brewery, one that has certainly caught people’s attention.
Salty Pecker owners Jennifer and Derek Olsen inside Salty Pecker in Norton Shores.
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business corridor, Business 96, a well-traveled route that leads motorists into Norton Shores and Muskegon. “Anyone driving from the south or from the east is going to drive right by us,” Olsen said. “The visibility is fantastic. All of the people doing brewery tours have no choice but to check out the place with the funny name and logo. The other half of our clientele our locals who are happy to have their own watering hole.” Ah, yes, the name. Let’s get to that.
“People love it,” Olsen said. “My wife came up with it. As soon as she “We’ve been well-received by the said it, we knew we had the right community,” said Derrick Olson. name for our business. It came “There are three nearby breweries from a hiking trip. We have a lot of in downtown Muskegon, so people pileated woodpeckers around here. knew what to expect. The skids We registered the name as a Mothwere greased for Norton Shores to er’s Day gift to her. People come have their own brewery. There isn’t into our taproom, get a t-shirt and much on our side of town.” have fun with it. It brings joy.” The locals love having a hangout The Olsens have a teenage son to call their own, while tourists, who has been known to wear his often in the area on bus tours, just woodpecker-adorned Salty Pecker have to stop in when they see the t-shirt to school. taproom awning with the unusual “What can they say,”” muses Olsen. name and its logo—a pileated “He’s supporting the family busiwoodpecker. ness.” The brewery is located at 255 Olsen has been home brewing Seminole Road, just off the main
since 2004 when he bought his first kit. It didn’t take long for him to get caught up in the process. “After that I was in love with the magic of brewing,” he said. “How cool, this magical process to make beer.” At Salty Pecker, they like to make what Olsen calls easy to drink approachable beers. There are 9 beers on tap, including Salty’s Big Red, Irish-style red ale (4.6 ABV) that doesn’t overwhelm the taste buds. “It doesn’t have too strong of a flavor. It’s less hoppy than a lot of IPA’s,” Olsen said. “We make things a little more on the light side here. Frankly, it’s good for business. People can 3 or 4 and still enjoy themselves. We do offer a few See Name on 38
MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
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Volume 4 | Fall 2021
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LIMITED OPTIONS LEAD MITTEN BREWING TO HISTORIC, AND POSSIBLY HAUNTED, LOCATION Amy Sherman MiBrewTrail Historical buildings can be super cool and so full of character, in fact sometimes so much character they are said to be haunted. Mitten Brewing Company in Grand Rapids calls the former firehouse Engine No. 9 home, and they have graced this charming brick lined spot with baseball themed decor, award winning pizzas, and lots of fantastic beers to drink. In return, the building has quite literally sometimes given up its ghost.
The Mitten Brewing Company is located in the former Engine House No. 9 on Grand Rapids West side. It has undergone extensive renovations since 2012, which may be the cause of some of the paranormal “occurrences” that have happened over the years.
“We knew we wanted an older style building to fit with our vintage baseball theme,” said co-owner Max Trierweiler, who owns the Mitten with his childhood best friend Chris Andrus. As lifelong residents of the neighborhood, they knew they wanted their business on the west side of Grand Rapids, Andrus said. “It sort of shrunk our options,” he said. “But our realtor said to just pick a building you like.” A prominent building located on busy Leonard Street, the old engine house “wasn’t even for sale,” at the time, said Andrus. “Everyone knew it was cool,” he said. “It was our first choice.” The station, which was a working firehouse until 1966, was originally built in 1890. A classic example of Victorian-era architecture, it is constructed of a warm red brick, with brightly painted green doors. With its peaked attic located right on the corner of the building, it’s been an attention grabber for years.
The original Engine House No. 9 fire pole still remains at The Mitten Brewing Company, right between the original doors that first horse and carriages would use to head out, and then fire trucks.
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Now, you can enjoy a flight of pizza and a Country Strong IPA in the remodeled ‘apparatus’ room. You’ll be dining and drinking right on the floor where previously engines, both
horse drawn and gasoline powered, used to lie in wait for the call to serve. Look up and you’ll find beams stamped with the original makers names. The brass fire pole is still in place between the two large doors where the vehicles would exit, and you can totally visualize a firefighter sliding slickly down it from the living quarters above to head out on a call. The incredible history of this building revealed itself almost board by board as the new owners began renovations. “As we started opening up walls and finding names written on things, you learn a lot about it as you take it down to its studs,” said Andrus. As each new bit was revealed, another part of Grand Rapids’ history came to light, and the two owners started their research, which has turned out to be pretty extensive. When they took ownership of the building in 2012, the solid brick building was divided up into three apartments, covered in drywall, and a bit of a mess. “You couldn’t even really get a sense as to what was here,” said Andrus. “It was so partitioned up.” “We could definitely see the potential,” Trierweiler added. As they started to strip away the layers, they found everything from old newspapers and pay stubs, to special equipment to pull the hoses in. History doesn’t just live in and on the walls here. Father Paul Morrow, from nearby St. Peter and Paul Parish was the former chaplain for the firehouse. He donated one of the original desks used at the firehouse to the Mitten, and they continue to use it today. “It’s our manager’s desk,” said Andrus. The coolest thing they’ve found so
far is a ‘captain’s log’ they discovered for No. 9 at the Grand Rapids Public Library. A snapshot in time, it is a day-by-day account of the occurrences here. “Who was working, what happened,” Andrus said. They even found one log from the flood of 1904, which listed how high the waters had risen in the neighborhood and in the building. The brewery has drawn visitors over the years who are former and current firefighters who come to check out the historical building. They’ve even had a few who actually used to call Engine No. 9 home, as well as relatives who had to see firsthand where their loved ones used to work. These guests are always welcome, “because they very often fill in a gap that we didn’t know,” said Andrus about the history of the building. While the current owners have done lots of research on the building, accessing records through both the city and the library, Andrus explained that there are forty-year gaps in the records. “We ran into a dead end around 1923 to 1960,” he said. “There was some sort of fire and a bunch of documents were lost.” Trierweiler jumped in to say that a lot of documents were destroyed when downtown Grand Rapids underwent a major urban renewal during the 1960s. “When they were redoing the face of downtown, they destroyed a lot of buildings, and they also destroyed documents,” he said. The duo, who are clearly committed to preserving and sharing not just the history of this building, but really of the West side of Grand Rapids as well, have gone so far as tracking See Mitten on 42
MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
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Volume 4 | Fall 2021
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www.MiBrewTrail.com | 29
Falling (Get it?) For Great British-Style Beers Karl Klockars MiBrewTrail
hoppier, roastier American versions this one has a nice earthy smoothness to it. Dragonmead Microbrewery: Inquisition English-Style IPA
While fall often brings to mind sloshing steins of Oktoberfest beers and spicysweet pumpkin ales aplenty, cooler temperatures make my brain turn immediately to the delicately balanced displays of malt mastery from the UK.
In a world that’s become dominated by hazy Americanized IPAs, it’s exceptionally hard to find a traditional English style these days … to the point where it’s easy to forget that England originated this style in the first place. It wouldn’t be a list of UK-inspired beers without a trip to Dragonmead, who’s been creating import-styles from England, Scotland, Belgium and beyond for nearly 25 years. This English-style IPA offers a pleasant journey into malty, gently herbal flavors that’s a nice departure from the super-juicy or hyper-bitter.
An autumn afternoon in the sun sipping a pint of ESB or a dark mild, a snifter of barleywine or even an Irish-style dry stout is a thing of beauty (assuming you still include Ireland as part of the British Isles). I also love that, unlike a Marzen or a pumpkin ale, styles from the UK can carry all the way through winter and even into early spring if you want to bookend your season at St. Paddy’s Day. If you think about it, Michigan has a lot in common with the British Isles. The misty highlands of Scotland can feel a lot like the rocky northern shore of the UP. There’s a Clare County here and a County Clare over there. If you’ve ever toured Mackinac Island you know the story of English soldiers literally invading that spot; let’s assume they brought a beer or three as well. And touristy Cornwall at England’s southwest edge? Well, the beachy towns of South Haven, Saugatuck and Union Harbor might like a word. And of course, the many breweries around the Mitten are happy to provide examples of many of these styles from across the pond. Put on an Elvis Costello or a Blur record and never mind that Guinness chose to open a brewery in Chicago (seriously?) because here’s some of our favorite UK-styled offerings:
hops. (This would be a delicious beer to have on cask, though cask beers seem to be about as rare as ESBs in the States.) Mitten Brewing: Triple Crown Brown Dark Mild Ale Michigan is surprisingly rich in brown ale options, and many of them are excellent: See Short’s Bellaire Brown or Bell’s Best Brown, for example. The dark mild style is a bit of a different riff on the brown ale, however, and even though Mitten calls this a “Triple Crown Brown” (the “dark mild” language apparently only exists on its packaging), it’s definitely got a lot in common with the UK’s low-abv sipper. In contrast to the
Workshop Brewing: Ball Peen ESB
Rockford Brewing Company: Sheehan’s Irish Stout
Despite the wide variety of American styles on draft at Traverse City’s best downtown brewery, it’s the ESB that keeps me coming back. Most breweries rarely even dabble in the style, but Workshop keeps Ball Peen on hand at all times, offering a nice easy-drinking copper-colored beer made with local
A good Irish-style stout is a rare thing indeed - why bother trying to make one when Guinness has already perfected it? Rockford Brewing Company not only makes one but has it as a flagship bearing the name of brewmaster Jeff Sheehan. Roasted barley gives this 2017 GABF medal-winner an extra
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layer of traditional depth compared to the wide variety of super-sweet pastry stouts on the market.
Atwater Brewery: Vanilla Java “English-Style” Porter: Even though everyone knows what an IPA is, the humble porter is England’s true original superstar beer style (IMO). Eclipsed by its bigger brother, the stout beer, porter is the Goldilocks of dark beers - not too strong, not too light, not too sweet and not too roasty. While there are many famous porters in Michigan - Bell’s and Founders first and foremost - very few describe themselves as “English style” which is why we’re giving the nod to Atwater here. Despite jamming coffee and vanilla on top of it, their designation of a true English-style is pretty rare in this longitude.
MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
Beer Made by Beer Lovers 1760 44th St SW Suite 8 Wyoming, MI 49519
616-307-2215 3gatosbeer.com
16776 21 Mile Rd & Brewery
Macomb, MI 48044
16776 21 Mile Rd #1, capncorkhomebrew.com capncorkbrewing.com Macomb, MI 48144 info @capncorkhomebrew.com
586.217.3576
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Draft list, Newaygo wiNes, harD ciDers, aND more! 19 State Rd, Newaygo, MI 49337
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Volume 4 | Fall 2021
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KVCC Home to One of the Nation’s Only Brewing Programs Jon Becker MiBrewTrail Parents and administrators may choose to believe otherwise, but beer and partying have long been a part of college campus culture in Michigan and throughout the nation. Yet protective Moms and Dads and image conscious school executives can rest easy when beer is on the agenda at Board meetings and other high-level sessions on the campus of Kalamazoo Valley Community College. That’s because these meetings aren’t hand-wringing sessions on discussing whether to revoke an out-of-control fraternity’s charter over alcohol-related infractions. They are more likely to center on enhancing educational partnerships with Ferris State University or Western Michigan University. Or furthering student-centered connections with Michigan’s oldest craft brewery, family-owned and operated Bell’s Brewery, and other craft breweries. You see, Kalamazoo Valley Community College is home to a Sustainable Brewing program, one of the few of its
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kind in the nation. Instead of kegs and raucous parties, think about a rigorous science-based curriculum that prepares students for a variety of professional jobs in Michigan’s exploding craft beer industry. “Students graduating our program are equipped to succeed in virtually all entry-level positions in the industry,” said Aaron Ross, who along with Brian Lindberg are the Sustainability Program instructors. “We teach students to thrive for understanding and growth beyond our influence. This is not just specifically at breweries.” As Ross points out, the program’s graduates are also qualified to work in other industry occupations such as suppliers of ingredients and technology, distributors, taproom managers, researchers, and brewery lab technicians. Some even make the leap to opening their own brewery. “We have one student who has since opened his own brewery outside of Tokyo,” Ross said. “It’s a success. We try to expose students to many facets of the industry in hopes they find what resonates with them. Our placement
rates are high and we continue to build relationships within the industry to further increase this statistic.” One of those relationships is with Bell’s Brewery. The company offers a full, oneyear internship for KVCC students that take them through the many sectors of brewing. “John Mallet (Bell’s V.P. of Operations) and the team over there take what we have taught them and put the rubber to the road. One Bell Brewing Company has also been an asset to the program, offering much of the hands-on learning as Bell’s,” Ross said. Sustainability Brewing students have several options for enrollment. The first is a 34 (soon to be 36) credit certificate that centers on the production of beer. According to Ross, this is the most popular track. A full-time student can complete the program in one year. Courses span from the history of brewing, ingredients, brew house and cellar operations, to sensory and styles, brewery management, quality assurance and other areas. This isn’t just about book study, either. The college actually has its own brewery
MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
on campus equipped with cutting edge technology. “Our program offers the most hands-on lab time of any certificate in the nation,” asserts Ross. “It’s been recognized by the Master Brewers Association of the Americas as being a credible source for brewing education.” KVCC launched the program in fall 2015 with the expert assistance of Mike Babb, an industry veteran with 30-plus years of experience working for Coors as a brew master. In addition, he also was a faculty member of the Seibel Institute in Chicago. The Sustainability Brewing Program was built on the principles of affordable, sustainability and hands-on education for the brewing industry—not only in the Midwest but for the nation and the world. “The idea of sustainability is a somewhat misunderstood concept,” Ross said. “Sustainability is not only the oftentimes-though-of environmentally conscious, save the trees, fight the man mentality. Sustainability derives from social aspects, economic aspects and environmental aspects.” Ross goes on to provide a few examples to illustrate his point: “Sustainable social equity means we are breaking down gender, racial and socioeconomic barriers found in the industry. We are also promoting healthy consumption habits and educating students on the dangers of
Volume 4 | Fall 2021
“
We try to expose students to many facets of the industry in hopes they find what resonates with them.
alcohol as well as redefining the role of the brewery in the social setting. Economic aspects range from ensuring that the operation is fiscally responsible and can fluctuate with the world economy.” Students will also get educated on the importance of fair pay and benefits for positions throughout the industry. Environmental considerations include maximizing efficiencies, sourcing local ingredients, conserving natural resources such as water, energy efficiency and advocating for the protection, conservation and continuance of these wonderful resources that allow us to make beer, Ross said. In addition to the one-year certificate option we touched on earlier, students have two other avenues to consider: an opportunity to enroll in an Associates of Applied Science curriculum which supplements the core of the brewing courses with business, chemistry, biology, English, among other offerings.
”
Students have a third option if they wish to continue on to a four-year school. They can either transfer with their associate’s to Western Michigan University, one of KVCC’s longtime partners, that offers a bachelors of science in either Brewery Operations or Brewery Science. Students looking to supplement their education with more hospitality-oriented courses can transfer to Ferris State University to complete bachelors in hospitality management with an emphasis on the brewing industry. There are currently about 40 students enrolled in brewing courses this semester at the community college. They range from fresh out of high school kids to individuals looking to switch careers and retirees looking to improve their home brewing skills. “We also have employees working at industry-related jobs here to hone their skills,” Ross said. In addition to instructors
Ross and Lindberg, the KVCC Sustainability Brewing team features its Brewery Operations Manager, Taylor Darling. Their collective education coupled with the latest and greatest in technology, complimented by educational and business partnerships, leads to opportunities for grads. “Our collective education, though not specific to brewing, spans from sustainable sciences to biology,” Ross said. “Brewing is such an interdisciplinary study—which is why it attracts so many different types of people. Our experiences at breweries are primarily from The Mitten Brewing Company and Saugatuck Brewing Company— both Michigan staples in the beer game.” Community colleges are noted for being nimble and KVCC is no exception. “We continue to grow our facility and equipment to grow and change with the industry,” he said. “Some of our newest equipment includes a partially automated keg washer, a canning line and a water distiller for building water profiles. The school also has a fully operational taproom and kitchen (with its culinary program in the same building). This allows us to serve beer in-house and beer to go for students and the greater community.” Kalamazoo Valley Community College: A key player in Michigan’s Growing Craft Beer Industry.
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The Sustainable Brewing program at KVCC recently won a bronze medal at the Great American Beer Festival in the Contemporary Gose category.
DID THIS KALAMAZOO COLLEGE MAKE THE FIRST STUDENT-BREWED BEER TO EVER EARN A GABF MEDAL? Karl Klockarsr MiBrewTrail On September 10th, Brian Lindberg and his team did something that perhaps no one else has done in the history of the Great American Beer Festival: They earned a GABF medal for a beer brewed by a college brewing program. Feel free to double-check our research, but we searched every single year of GABF medal winners (all posted here) and we couldn’t find a single reference for “university,” “college” or any other better-known brewing curriculum (like the program at UC-Davis, for example). Lindberg is the Sustainable Brewing Instructor at Kalamazoo Valley Community College, which took home a Bronze Medal for their “Sour Flower” contemporary gose; a fairly competitive category, with 118 entries from around the country. After all the judging was completed, the KCVV beer was bested only by Pennsyl-
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vania’s Workhorse Brewing and Iowa’s SingleSpeed Brewery.
never brewed a batch of beer, and give them the education they need and the practical experience they need to get Not bad for a student recipe, brewed by there, you know? Enough to be dangercollege students! ous in the craft brewing industry. And to So … how does a community college excite them, so maybe they do want to put together an award winning recipe? go on to UC-Davis or Western [Michigan What did they need to do to get their University] or some of the schools that beers entered into the competition? have in-depth, scientific programs that What else did they send for judging...and deal with microbiology, biochemistry and are their students planning to go pro? We the stuff that melts most people’s brains chatted with Lindberg in the wake of his when it comes to science. team’s big win: We’ve got a taproom on campus that MiBrewTrail: Let’s start by talking about sells our student beers; it lets students your program in general. What does get in the building, work all the time KVCC’s brewing certificate look like? on our little brew system and bring it Brian Lindberg: We started about six through from grain to glass, and then to years ago, and the idea behind our have the experience of actually serving program was [that] you’ve got these that behind the bar to patrons. Now, universities that really get deep into like obviously COVID has kind of slowed that the science of brewing, and we want to down a little bit but we’re getting back come from more of a practical approach. there. Right now it’s an exciting time to be a student and also it’s an exciting time We want to bring in your weekend warrior home brewer, or a student that’s to be an instructor again.
MBT: And how did you find yourself at the helm of this program? BL: Honestly, right before the program started was my first experience in the brewing world. I started my professional career as a microbiologist, working for places like Amway, Old Orchard juice brands - being a quality assurance personnel. I got kind of sick of that and I saw this opportunity at Saugatuck Brewing Company, where they needed someone to run their quality department. So I somehow convinced them to give me a job having zero beer background; maybe I had homebrewed once in my entire life. I took off running there, and the farther I got into it, the more I realized that a lot of people understand what they’re doing, but, but not why they’re doing these things. Like, you ask a brewer, “so why are you mashing at 67 degrees Celsius?” And they’re like, “well it’s because the recipe tells me to.” But why, you know? People struggle with the “why,” and so I
MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
found myself learning a ton but I wanted to understand the mechanisms behind why we’re doing this thing. So, short story getting longer, I was one of the first students of Kalamazoo Valley Community College’s sustainable brewing program, and fell in love with it. You know, loved it. I related really well with the full time instructor at the time, Mike Babb. We call him The Godfather because he kind of put the brewing program together; he was the mind behind it all. And about six months into taking classes, [Babb] approached me and said “we need someone to put our brewery together - would you be interested in being a staff member?” At the time I was like, “Man, I’m not qualified for this, I just got into brewing.” But he assured me, he saw a lot of potential in me and so I took the job and basically put together the little brewery there on campus. I taught some classes here and there, and figured out I really wanted to be a full time instructor. [But] I actually quit and I went and opened a brewery up in Grand Rapids with a family ownership team [Two Hops Brewing Company], and did that for about a year. Eventually there came to be an opening for an instructor at KVCC [and] I felt like the year of repetitive brewing on a commercial scale really gave me the knowledge to be a good instructor. I applied for the job, became an instructor and now this is the beginning of my fourth year. MBT: Was this the first year that you sent beers for GABF judging? BL: This is my first time personally entering beers in GABF. Previously, we had been entering beers in the US College Open beer competition; it piggybacks off the professional US Beer Open competition. The real barrier to entry for us was that until fall 2019 we weren’t a “real brewery.” We didn’t have a brewing license or brew pub license - we were this weird little brewery that was for an educational purpose and
Volume 4 | Fall 2021
so we weren’t able to sell any of our beer. We had to dump it all down the drain until that point [when] we finally got [legally] recognized as a brewpub. So we open our tap room, people start coming in … and then 2020 happens and everything shuts down. And we lose a lot of steam. Last summer we weren’t even allowed to be at campus because everything was so shut down. So this year, summer came around and our head brewer Elijah [Giles] was very keen on getting some beers in a competition that he was able to brew. So what we did is, over the summer, we took student recipes from the past and “rebooted” them. Why we chose this beer specifically was last year we had students brewing in the fall for their practicum, which is the capstone class we offer. Students have gone through all the other classes, their last class is to come in, they design beers and every day we’re brewing a batch of beer that they’ve assigned. One of our students, Teddy [Woznicki], had this idea for this hibiscus, strawberry and lime gose that he wants to make. So we came up with the recipe, we threw it in the fermenter, we put it on tap, and people loved it. We literally had people tell us, “this is an award winning beer - you need to enter this in GABF.” So, this summer, Elijah brewed Teddy’s gose again, we entered it in GABF and lo and behold, it ended up bringing home a medal! Which was a huge accomplishment, especially [since] we weren’t actually going to enter. But our head brewer Elijah was just very adamant that he wanted to get student beers in this competition and if not for him, we probably wouldn’t have actually even entered it. MBT: Did you reach out to Teddy to tell him you were entering his recipe? Or did you let that be a surprise? BL: Yeah, we let him know we’re See Kalamazoo on 37
KVCC student, Bailey White working in the onsite facilities.
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MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
i b w m y o j a s b l s r a t h g o f a p i t f o w
A t w i a l l c b t b t r b e t t I f b m h o o h T a c w m
W d f a
Non-pumpkin from 13 is well known for their unique approach to beer thanks to talented founder Ron Jeffries. who creates open fermented, barrel blended masterpieces that are unlike any other beer you will find. La Roja is one of their signature offerings and is a great place to start your journey into sour beers. A gorgeous deep amber color, La Roja is brewed in the Flanders style, and then takes a siesta in bourbon barrels anywhere from 2 to 15 months. The liquid then gets blended together mad scientist style until the perfect combination is reached. This is kind of like wild west brewing, as conditions and natural ingredients change through the process, but under the skilled hands of Jeffries it all turns into magic in your glass. La Roja will draw you in with its aroma of caramel, hints of spice, and a bit of woodsy funk. Take a sip, and you’ll also get fruit notes, a bit of astringency, and some definite sour punchiness. It is wildly unique, and is an interesting, and perhaps unexpected beer to try this fall season. Also, keep your eyes open for a new beer from Jolly that they are rolling out this fall, Kiviuq Saison, which is brewed with lime and blackberry. As the weather gets colder, we move past the light lawnmower beers of summer, and welcome brews that have higher ABVs. This is time of year when I enjoy cracking open a double IPA, or an imperial IPA, and with literally zero remorse, happily indulge in these lovely little flavor bomb alternatives to the classic IPA. If you are new to craft beer, don’t be alarmed when someone tells you that these beers get double the hops of a normal beer. They do. But they also get about double the malt bill as well, so the resulting beer is round and robust, well balanced, and a bit boozy. These beers are not overly bitter, and even if they say they have an IBU of something crazy like 114 IBU’s, they drink smoother than a regular IPA that might clock in at 70 IBUs. A great one to try is Brother Benjamin from Greenbush Brewing in Sawyer. Yes, this beer has 114 IBUs, but the addition of more malt, and a generous dollop of local Michigan honey transforms it into a wonderful warmer of a beer. And I do mean warmer, as the ABV on this one is a hearty 10.1%. You will get that honey, and booze, right on the nose at first. Then you will find notes of citrus, grapefruit, and slightly bitter hops, with an exhale of alcohol. A sipper for sure. Many local breweries will offer these big beers during the colder months, so seek them out, give them a try, We always love to hear what you’ve been drinking and loving from all over Michigan. Feel free to reach and out let me know what is good at amyonthetrail@gmail.com.
Volume 4 | Fall 2021
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Name from 26 stronger beers for the heavy hitters as well, such as our strong scotch ale, Kilted Pecker (8.3 ABV). Hoppy Pecker (5.6 ABV), a very mild brew, and Cherry Popper, a light wheat ale infused with tart cherries are a few other popular customer choices. “It’s crisp and light with no artificial flavors,” Olsen said. “Everyone likes it. It’s delicious.”
Pictured are Pasteis, Brazilian Deep Fried Appetizers, a popular menu choice at 3 Gatos Brewery in Wyoming, MI.
european from 18 and authenticity. It’s about the European beer styles and the way they are brewed for decades in their original locations. And pairing them with their local authentic food. It’s not about doing crazy things like adding fruits to Kolsch.” The De Paolis opened 3 Gatos (cat in Spanish) on July 2, a launch that, of course, was delayed by a pandemic that won’t seem to vanquish. “One of the things we’ve learned in life is that it’s never the perfect moment to do anything, whether it’s to quit a job, change countries, change carriers, open a business, etc.” said De Paoli of their decision to forge ahead with their business plans despite COVID-19 challenges. “There is only the now and the conditions you have to live with to do what you want to do.”
3 Gatos Brewery is the realization of the dream of its founders and owners, Linus and Renata.
Brewery in Wyoming, Michigan-- who I met at “Brazil is our homeland, so we loved it there one of the courses I did at the VLB. He was explor- and miss it,” De Paoli said. “Germany was also ing selling his brewery.” awesome. The level of social justice, equality and inclusion and work/life balance is unmatched. Germany, where the De Paolis lived for six years, has a reputation for precision engineering with its And the beer, of course. Since Germany is also at the heart of Europe traveling to these other beer-making prowess not far behind. countries was a breeze.” “Germans are the experts in brewing nice and clean pale lagers,” he said. “Nobody does it better and has more attention to detail than German brewers. But in the last 10 years or so, the country has seen a growing and creative modern craft beer scene that is not shy about innovating.” Sounds a lot like the evolution of the Michigan Craft Beer Scene, which just so happens has put out its big welcome mat for 3 Gatos. “The response has been awesome,” said De Paoli. “It’s been much more than we anticipated.” The name 3 Gatos?
The De Paolis’ craft beer beginnings date back to the early 2000s when the first German Hefeweizens arrived in Brazil. In 2011 they started home brewing and a few years later they began entertaining thoughts of owning their own brewery but didn’t act on it.
“It came to us before we knew we were coming to West Michigan. At the time we were thinking about doing the brewery in Europe. So it needed to be in a language that most Europeans understand, hence Spanish (but also Portuguese as Gatos means the same thing in both languages.”
As life would have it, things changed in 2015 when job transfers took them from their native Brazil to Cologne, Germany. There they kept home brewing and in 2018, “I got more serious about home brewing,” De Paoli said. “I got myself Cicerone Certified, did some training and took courses on beer sensory and beer brewing at the VLB in Berlin.”
Their unique name has a decidedly personal meaning to the former engineers.
By then the beer bug had taken serious hold. It was time to get some professional experience. “In 2019 I took a buyout package at my old job to start an internship as assistant brewer at a small brewery in Bonn,” said De Paoli. “At the end of 2019 we got a call from the owner of Kitzingen
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“It had to be about us, who we are and where we came from,” he explained. “And we have 3 cats we adopted in Brazil 10 years ago and brought to Europe and West Michigan with us.” Their beloved cats are the inspiration behind the brewery’s name and logo. The couple’s experience living abroad and experiencing different cultures in countries like Germany, Belgium, Italy, Denmark, Netherlands and the Czech Republic helped shaped their vision for what they want 3 Gatos to be all about. Brazil, though, will always be home.
Only open since July 2, 3 Gatos is already noted for its ambience, a place where patrons can feel right at home and relax over good beers and delicious authentic Brazilian comfort (street) food. Coxinha (chicken dumplings) and the Bauru, a popular Brazilian Roast Beef sandwich, are customers’ favorites. The brew pub has 11 beers, two ciders, 1 seltzer and 1 nitro cold brew coffee on tap. It will consistently offer its Minskin Kolsch, Foldex Hefeweizen and either the American Bobtail Double IPA or the Toyger IPA. “Because we lived in Cologne, Germany for 6 years it has to be the Minskin Kolsch, “ De Paoli said of his personal favorite. “For international food, we have a pork schnitzel sandwich. We have made a Jaggerschnitzel special and will make Belgian meatballs and Carbonade a la Flamande soon.”
On a recent Thursday night Derek and Jennifer Olsen got an early glimpse of what the Salty Pecker seems on track to become: a hotspot for locals to gather to watch the big game or for tourists who enjoy a taste of what the noted West Michigan craft beer scene has come to represent. “I just tapped a butterscotch porter (6.2 ABV) last night and think everyone who came in ordered one,” Olsen said. “We have about 4,000 Facebook friends. It’s dark, roasty and mildly sweet. Good for the colder months.”
B H a t u d
Salty Pecker doesn’t serve food but is food friendly, meaning patrons can bring in their own grub. “We’ve partnered with a couple of Food Trucks,” Olsen said. “That’s worked out well.” The brew house, due to popular demand, has already expanded its hours one month since opening. Originally open Thursday through Saturday from 4-10 p.m., Salty Pecker is now open from 1-6 p.m. on Sundays. “The support has been amazing,” Olsen said. “Much love to our community.”
The De Paolis are thrilled to be able to share their Brazilian culture and European life experiences through food, beer and conversation at the former Kitzingen Brewery that they reinvented in their own image. “We want to create a culture of openness, inclusiveness, diversity and relaxation while having a good time with friends, old and new,” De Paoli said. “We have the perfect team here working with us. They are awesome with customers and fully embrace our values and culture.”
K o a s
MI Brew Trail |Fall 2021
BEll’s Brewery from 17 hops needed for the upcoming year. This year, the hops that the team harvested from their own farm will once again be going into their seasonal brew known as Sideyard. The big difference this year is that there will be three different versions of the beer. Thanks to the purchase of a hop harvester machine, which strips the hop cones from the bines automatically, Bell’s has been able to time out the the harvesting of three different varieties of hops, picking them at the peak of ripeness for each kind, and getting those fresh hops directly into the kettle within hours of picking.
Bell’s employees all pitch in for the hop harvest. Here, the hops are stripped from their bines using a hop harvesting machine. This is the first year that Bell’s has had their very own machine to use, and it has allowed the team to brew three different beers this year.
The traditional offering, Sideyard Ale, will be released at the Eccentric Cafe and store on October 8. It will also be in limited distribution throughout the lower Peninsula, Ohio and Indiana at better bottle shops. The Crystal and Triumph versions will only be able to be found at the General Store in bottles and the Cafe on draft. All versions will have been bottled, kegged or canned
within 12 hours of the hops being picked. “This is a great team, and it is a great time to be a team,” said Mallett about the hop harvest. “Being able to do fresh hop beers, it’s just great. We’re bringing hops from hanging on the wire, to putting them in the kettle in a matter of a couple of hours. You just can’t do that with hops from Germany or Washington.” •
Sideyard Triumph Ale (6.5% ABV): 6-packs of 12 oz. bottles will be available starting at 11 a.m. on Sept. 30. The Café will have it on draft starting at 3 p.m.
•
Sideyard Ale (6.8% ABV): 4-packs of 16 oz. cans will go on sale and on tap at the Café at 11 a.m. on Oct. 8.
•
Sideyard Crystal Ale (6.5% ABV): 6-packs of 12 oz. bottles, along with draft pours, will be available starting at 11 a.m. on Oct. 15.
Amy Sherman is a regular on the MiBrew Trail. She graduated from Aquinas College and promptly headed into the kitchen, where she was a working chef for over 20
Kalamazoo from 33 doing this again - because the beer was just that good. And so he was excited but again, we tried to temper that excitement a little bit. You know, this is a huge competition, and any sort of fruited sour category is super competitive. So we made sure he knew … but as soon as you know we got the notification that we won, yeah, it’s been crazy ever since. It’s been just a crazy cool experience for that student group that all worked together to help Teddy make that recipe, but then you know the students right now are super pumped about it too. This is something that you can potentially have on your resume in the future, you know? As long as you’re showing up to class, you’re doing the work, you’re spending the time, we could potentially put one of your beers in GABF. And you could win.
Kalamazoo Valley Community College has its own brewery, part of the hands-on training that students in the school’s Sustainability program receive that prepares then for a wide range of skilled positions in the brewing industry.
Volume 4 | Fall 2021
years. Running her own business, Two Chicks and an Oven, she’s worked the line, baked wedding cakes, catered, consulted, and taught cooking classes all over Michigan. She was the host of the television show Great American Brew Trail, as well as the co-host of the award-winning radio show Behind the Mitten. For the last five years, she’s been a journalist at some big media company, eating and drinking her way across the state. She resides in Grand Rapids with her hubs, three perfectly awesome kids, and two crazy cute chihuahuas.
Amy Sherman plants lips on one of her favorite beers, a Founders Porter.
for this batch, and you know we just helped facilitate it in whatever way we could to make sure that the beer could get out there to people. It was a student-led thing. MBT: Did you send any other beers to GABF, or just the gose? BL: Actually we sent four beers, mainly just because it’s pretty expensive to send beer. I was surprised the school actually let us send any. So we sent the fruited gose, we sent just a standard IPA, we sent a barrel aged stout ... MBT: An IPA and a barrel-aged stout? You guys were taking some big swings. BL: Oh, yeah. And this is the one we actually thought we were going to have the best chance of winning: a German smoked beer rauchbier. And the student used peated malt, which is a very hard ingredient to use because it comes through so strong and aggressive. But it just came out to be a super beer. [And] we ended up winning, in the end, one of the ones that we expected to just get wiped out in.
Throughout this entire process, I just really want to stress that this wasn’t an instructor beer, this wasn’t a long-time trained brewer that made this beer. This is a student recipe, de- MBT: So now that you guys are a signed by a group of students, head- GABF award-winning program, have ed by Teddy. he was the head brewer your students had any conversa-
tions about taking that experience and leveraging that and opening up their own space? BL: At this point [there] honestly hasn’t been much conversation. Every student that comes to our program, I feel like they already have their hopes and dreams of opening their own brewery. And so I’m sure Teddy has in the back his head, “Man, you made this good recipe, this is a jumping off point to help open a brewery or open my own.” And I know Elijah, we work pretty closely together - he hopes to do it too but they’re both very level headed, humble brewers, and they’re taking it one step at a time. Teddy’s super adamant about finishing his four year degree at Western, Elijah’s super adamant about finishing his Associates at KVCC, and so I haven’t heard any buzz about if they’re gonna move on and do anything crazy outside of school. They’re pretty adamant about finishing their education before jumping out and getting started in the industry. So, I think that’s a really cool thing too to see that they haven’t let this get to their head. This interview has been edited and condensed.
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tour de force from 20 “With that came the need to add more tour directors to lead our events, which primarily happen on Saturdays,” he said. “West Michigan Beer Tours continues that work today and we have expanded to fields including event management, and marketing and communication assistance with our industry partners.” The company’s tour directors include Liberty and a “group of beer-loving independent contractors who are as passionate about discovering new Michigan beer as providing thoughtful service to our guests,” he said. “I’m fortunate to have a team of really great people, who also happen to know beer really well, helping to make our experience so rewarding.” There are a number of other tour operators around the state, but Liberty maintains that “we pride ourselves on our meaningful connections with brewery owners and staff earned over more than 15 years in the craft beer industry. We provide public walking tours and public bus tours, along with private bus and walking tours on request.” The company’s annual Halloween Bus Tours return this year on October 29 and October 30. It’s based in downtown Kalamazoo and features seasonal drinks, scary brewery décor, a fun-filled forest and a ghost-dwelling brewery. “Through our customized private tours or our specialty public bus tours, including the Hop Harvest Beer Tour and Halloween Beer Tours, we provide quality beer-drinking events in a safe and responsible manner,” he noted.
line and its popular walking tours. They also added Makers Mark Tours in Kalamazoo, highlighting local spirit, wine and beer producers in one event. “Many travelers head to West Michigan for bonfires, beaches and beer during summer. We’re happy to see them when they do. But the fall is pretty fun, too.” Owning and operating a brewery is an expensive and complicated undertaking requiring capital, creativity and plain old hard work. “A lot of people who are relatively new to craft beer are astonished by the costs associated with opening a brewery,” Liberty said. “During production tours, people often ask our brewery partners how much their equipment costs and are generally stunned by the upfront costs just to make beer. They also discover the amount of time and effort that goes into cleaning and maintaining their production space. Those aspects, as well as dealing with supplies and maintenance, tend to open a lot of eyes.” West Michigan Tours is successful but it is careful not to get ahead of itself with any grandiose plans to expand across the state. “We stick to what we know, which is the west side of the state,” he said. “We cover beer communities from Grand Rapids, Three Rivers, Battle Creek and South Haven, to Muskegon and Bridgman—and every point in between. As evidenced by the seven Great American Beer Festival medals earned by this side of the state, we’re pretty happy to showcase the quality beer here.”
West Michigan Beer Tours just concluded a And Mi Brew Trail is happy to showcase yet another element of the state’s craft beer typically busy summer season marked by private trips along the Lake Michigan shore- industry.
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Saucy Brew Works is noted for its wide selection of craft beers but also has an extensive menu that includes salads, sandwiches, its signature thin-crust pizzas and stone oven baked wings.
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locations, including its downtown Detroit brewpub.
cause who doesn’t love pickles on a pizza? And the Bees Knees, which is topped with crushed red pepper and a honey drizzle to give it a touch of sweetness with a kick of spice.”
“We’re a lifestyle brand,” he said. “We wanted those who are non-drinkers to be able to enjoy our products, whether at home, at the coffeehouse or the brewpub. We offer a full selection of craft coffee specialties, as well as our 12 oz. packages of House Roast and seasonal roasts such as Boo Thang, Pumpkin Spice Coffee.”
Guests can enjoy an eclectic offering of beers, everything from classic German and American beers, to experimental yeast and wild type brews. The brewery’s three signature can beers are Habituale, a Kolsch-style golden ale; Juicy Asap, an American IPA; and Love you, Bye, an Imperial IPA. “We have something for everyone’s tastes,” said Nicholson. Yet Saucy’s growing brand is not just about beer. It officially launched Saucy Coffee in July 2020 and has since put a coffeehouse in each of their four new
There are growing pains with any new business, but opening a “brewpub and the first restaurant to open in Detroit in 2021 during the midst of a pandemic has definitely been an uphill battle,” Nicholson acknowledged. “But we’ve learned a lot this summer and we’re learning more and more about what our Detroit customers want to see from us. We’re pushing to deliver the best service and product possible and the feedback we have received so far has been great.”
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mind your makers. Give your employees peace-of-mind with a benefits program made specifically for the beverage industry. The Michigan Beverage Collective provides hand-crafted benefits for employers who want to recruit and retain exceptional talent, offer a great place to work, and grow their business. Michigan born and bred, the Collective provides medical, dental, vision, and short-term disability benefits without breaking the bank.
Give us a call today at (517) 482-5555 or visit us at mibeveragecollective.com
By pooling Michigan’s large community of craft beverage makers and wholesalers into one buying group, the Collective is able to obtain lower prices on healthcare coverage from Blue Cross/Blue Shield of Michigan and provide a number of attractive, flexible plan options.
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Mitten from 28 down next of kin through obituaries to fill in the gap that was lost. “It was actually really cool,” said Trierweiler. “We’d look up people with the same last names on Facebook, and ask if there is any chance you are related. And they’d say, it’s my grandpa. And then they would come in with stuff we didn’t have.” Some of the former members of Engine House No. 9, and their families, have started donating their old equipment to the brewery. They’ve received helmets, fire coats, pictures and other memorabilia. The plan is to put these items on display as another nod to the building’s history. Their research has been so extensive that the Grand Rapids Fire Department has actually approached them about filling in some of its own gaps.
The former firehouse’s back door now houses the original brewing equipment for The Mitten. Although they now have a larger production facility across the street, The Mitten still uses this system for small and experimental batches of beer.
“The fire department has used a lot of stuff that we’ve found,” Trierweiler said. Although the two have gathered extensive history, they said they aren’t yet qualified to be historians for the fire department. “We just had stuff they didn’t have, and we are definitely part of the cannon now,” Andrus said. In addition to finding many historical items, the owners also found a few interesting things during renovations. Interesting might not be the right word, I’m going to switch that up and go with downright creepy.
Flagship beers at The Mitten include Country Strong IPA (shown here), Peanuts and Cracker Jacks ale, and Triple Crown Brown, a 2016 World Beer Cup Silver Medalist.
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During the first stage of renovations, Andrus was the last person to leave the building, and the first to return the next day. As he entered the main floor room, he found very distinct, small footprints that looked like a child’s winding around
in a circle on the floor. There was no discernible entrance or exit of the prints, showing that whoever this was hadn’t entered or exited the building. Next up during construction on the upstairs, a perfectly preserved footprint that exactly matched those found on the floor previously, was found on a board behind a wall that had not seen the light of day in 126 years. The coincidence was so strange that they saved the board and preserved it, and it can still be seen today, as part of the bar upstairs. The owners have never found any solid evidence of why or who might be haunting the building. “It seems to be more poltergeisty or pranky,” said Andrus. “It’s not an ill-intentioned spirit. It seems to be more like random stuff happens. It’s almost playful.” In response to the multiple events that occurred, the brewery keeps a ‘ghost journal’ under the bar at all times. Any employee who witnesses something out of the ordinary can write down what happened in the book. It has multiple entries, everything from lights flickering to strange noises. Back in 2017, I spent the night at the Mitten with Trierweiler, Andrus and the Grand Rapids Ghost Hunters. A professional paranormal investigative team, GRGH came into the brewery with specialized equipment to record any and all events that might happen that night. I’m talking a lot of equipment. I felt like I was at an arena concert for The Rolling Stones when they got it all set up. Electric magnetic recorders, sound recorders, video cameras. It took up a sizable portion of the second story room at the brewery. I learned that there are two
types of hauntings. The most common is a ‘residual’ haunting, which is when a building holds a special energy that is manifesting itself. A brick building like Engine House No. 9 where the Mitten resides tends to hold more energy than those of other construction. The other type of haunting is known as an ‘intelligent’ haunting, which means that there is an interaction between the dead and the living. Some spaces might have both, and a haunting doesn’t necessarily mean that there was a traumatic event that occurred there. The ghost hunters started our night off with a special line up of protective prayers, which I’ll say was probably the spookiest part of the night. We stood in a circle together, and it was then that I caught the eye of Andrus, and I think we both had a thought of ‘what have we gotten ourselves into?’ As we asked for the full armor of God to protect us, a very cold shiver ran up my spine. I needn’t have worried. Recordings were started, I grabbed a pint of beer to calm my nerves, and we started exploring the building, as the ghost hunters followed along with handheld devices. It was super cool to check out the basement, where you can still see many of the original implements from when they used horse drawn wagons. We went through every nook and cranny of the building for hours. At the end, we said another set of prayers asking any spirits not to follow us home. To this day, I hope they did not. During our night of ghost hunting, there were several spooky things heard on the recordings that were made. You can actually listen to them through a link found on The Mitten’s website. The
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name John is heard, some humming, and a sigh. Were they made by an actual ghost? Believe what you want, but personally, having experienced it firsthand, I say most definitely maybe, quite possibly yes. Meaning, I didn’t hear these things with my own ears, they were picked up by super sensitive ghost hunting equipment. What I did see was lots of creepy shadows, felt cold presences, and watched Trierweiler let out a squeal and run up the stairs like a bolt of lightning when the light in the downstairs hallway flickered and went out. It was the most entertaining part of my night. Since our night of ghost hunting, things have “kind of gotten cold” around the Mitten according to Andrus. “It’s really quieted down,” agreed Trierweiler. The owners believe that the paranormal activity is mostly tied to whenever a big change happens to the building, and they haven’t made any major changes lately. So far, only the Grand Rapids location has experienced supernatural occurrences. Crazy, unexplained occur-
rences are not the reason to visit the Mitten. Getting to indulge in incredible pizza and fantastic beer is, and it is a compelling one. Beers range the whole spectrum, and have baseball inspired names that unless you are a true fan, you might not always understand, but you will enjoy. Docks No-No is a big and bad double IPA, the Stretch is an easy drinking golden ale, Sweet Lou a creme brûlée imperial stout, and West Coast Swing comes in with notes of caramel. Triple Crown Brown, their version of a classic English Brown Ale, won silver in 2016 at the World Beer Cup. If Peanuts and Cracker Jacks is being poured, grab a pint of this unique brew and dream of a summer day at the stadium.
roasted garlic. They always offer a specialty pizza of the week, but for me, the clinch hitter is the pizza flight. Pick any four of their specialty pizzas, and the Mitten will bake them up to perfection, and serve them up hot and bubbly on a big tray, for the ultimate sampling experience. “All of this was worth it,” said Trierweiler. “We undertook all of this with a purpose, and it was worth it. We had a vision and goal, and we were driven.”
Whether you believe in ghosts or not, it really doesn’t matter at The Mitten. Come to experience an amazingly renovated historical building, chock full of cool baseball memorabilia. Wait for your table in an original Tiger’s Stadium Pizzas here are top notch, seat, check out some of the with hand stretched dough firehouse’s history, and then and homemade sauce tuck in to great food and providing the base for fresh beer. Whatever spirits might toppings. These also follow be here, I’m pretty sure they the baseball theme. The are all in for a good time, Heater comes in hot with which you most definitely a habanero pepper sauce, spicy andouille sausage, jala- will have at The Mitten. peños and banana peppers. Mitten Brewing Company Field of Greens is a vegetari- 527 Leonard St NW, an’s delight as it gets topped Grand Rapids, MI 49504 616-608-561 with artichoke hearts, broccoli, green peppers and Mittenbrewing.com
There are two levels of seating at The Mitten, a popular brewery found on the West side of Grand Rapids.
Volume 4 | Fall 2021
The former firehouse’s back door now houses the original brewing equipment for The Mitten. Although they now have a larger production facility across the street, The Mitten still uses this system for small and experimental batches of beer.
This ghostly image of a footprint is permanently a part of the upstairs bar at The Mitten. Found during demolition of a wall that had not been opened in 126 years, it matched other mysterious prints found years earlier.
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