Max Crus Trophy misses Aussie Day melee.

are unAustralian and have made a business decision not to sell, as the Betoota Advocate puts it, ‘Chinese made novelty Australia Day shit’, as Dutton advocates, but because they wrap everything in plastic and crush, squeeze and screw their suppliers (and customers) mercilessly in the quest for increased proft for their shareholders and executives.

glass tasted merely pretty good, the last absolutely lovely. Alas we couldn’t afford another bottle. 9.7/10.

Howard Park Margaret River Leston Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, $40. Howard Park too had several runners at the front of the feld, but this highlighted that I am a failure. At frst I couldn’t tell the difference between this and its Scotsdale Great Southern sister. After an hour, however, while

That Peter Dutton thinks the government should dictate what a supermarket sells fies in the face of his own party’s principles, but evidently they are trumped by any chance to fy the patriotic pennant.

Instead of Dutton’s dictum to buy cheap, plastic, Chinese-made, Aussie fags that will be in landfll tomorrow, I suggest we buy this year’s both wines retained their gorgeous WA cabernet lusciousness, this felt bigger and bolder, altogether more brash... 9.7/10.

Howard Park Great Southern Scotsdale Cabernet Sauvignon 2019, $50. …while this became more sophisticated and foral, rounder and softer.

In the end, I may still be a failure, it was possible to separate the wines but not in impact and enjoyment. Both are superior cabernets in

Max Crus Trophy winner in reverence to something truly Australian and place it gently in the recycle bin when fnished.

Now, who are the contenders from 2023?

From nearly 600 wines, 42 scored 9.6/10 or better. 15 of those scored 9.7 or better, while fve got a whopping 9.8! However only one scored 9.9…so the winner of (followed the upper reaches of Aussie (possibly the world’s) reds. 9.7/10.

Crittenden Estate Mornington Peninsula

The Zumma Pinot Noir 2014, $65 (current vintage 2021). Another maker to make the grade often, if only we could keep all their wines for 10 years. Wish I’d thought of that ten years ago. You get the sense this level of calm sophistication, softness and drinkability is what the winemaker had by some other contenders for) the 2024 Max Crus Trophy is…. drumroll, dull speech by Jo Koy, dancing girls a la World Darts Championship and arrival by helicopter a la Dave Warner : (ps Stay tuned next week for more of the best of 2023 to compare with a complete list of the winners over the past 30 years.) in mind the whole time. 9.7/10.

Crittenden Estate Mornington Peninsula

Cri de Coeur Pinot Noir 2021, $95. Pinots can be a bit dreary, specially if you have tried a few in a short space of time. This is just the wine to snap you out of your complacency. It tastes expensive and individual and makes you think “gee, I’d drink a lot more pinot if they were all like this”. 9.7/10.