Pairings A COMPANION PUBLICATION TO HEART OF OHIO MAGAZINE
FALL 2015
From first sip to last bite
Flavor
Fine Dining & More
@
Enjoy a lakeside experience with outdoor seating when weather permits, while our Hearthside Room is comfortable during the colder seasons with the ambiance of a warm fireplace. Our Bistro Room is great for special small parties or watching games with TV access beside the bar area.
We offer Boxed Lunches for Pick-Up or Delivery. A meal prepared to perfection with a variety of Bella Bleu’s specialty items. Family recipes make Bella’s meals all that more special with flavors to satisfy and keep you coming back for more!
Check out our complete lunch menu at bellableus.com.
Water’s Edge is Also available for WEDDINGS • BUSINESS MEETINGS • PARTIES • HOLIDAYS • SOCIAL GATHERINGS 170 Summerset Dr. | Ashland, Ohio 44805 | 419.281.1187 | watersedgeashland.com
Contents 0 3 |
Navigating a Fine Dining Wine List
0 4 |
Ashland's Bella Bleu's
0 7 |
Wine on the Way to the Lake
10 |
The Wine Wranglers Ride
13 |
Wine Speak
Again...and Again
A Toast...Hear, Hear!
FALL 2015
From the Editor There are few things that go so well with Heart of Ohio as Pairings magazine. So, back by popular demand, we bring you the sixth issue of Pairings. In these pages you will find an assortment of pairings which prove that Ohio has great flavor — from the first sip, to the last bite. As the wine industry grows in our region, so do restaurants’ already dauntingly long wine lists. Doniella will help you tackle those wine lists, and their often confusing terms, to find the perfect vino to suit your tastes, and your entrée. Mike takes us to Bella Bleu’s of Ashland, where “Gourmet Everyday” cuisine pairs oh so well with a great selection of regional wine. In his story, “Wine Wranglers”, Mike will also show us that wine’s best pairing of all is good friends. I’ll be sharing a pair of wine destinations ripe for an afternoon of fall fun in “Wine Off the Lake”, and our issue ends, not with dessert, but with a toast. Last, but never least, Diana shares the history of toasts in her column “Winespeak”. And here’s one more pairing for you: this magazine pairs great with a glass of wine!
Adelyn Belsterling, Editor
Publisher SunGraphics, Inc. Diane K. Brown, President diane@sungraphicsinc.com Editor Adelyn Belsterling editor@heartofohiomagazine.com Sales & Marketing Mike Greene mike@heartofohiomagazine.com Diane Brown diane@heartofohiomagazine.com Contributing Writers Adelyn Belsterling Diana L. Coon Mike Greene Donniella Winchell Graphic Designer Barbie Waters Circulation Michelle Fredmonsky-Harvey michelle@sungraphicsinc.com
Let's keep in touch
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Copyright 2015, Heart of Ohio Magazine, LLC. ISSN 2158-8732. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permission. SunGraphics, Inc. and Heart of Ohio Magazine, LLC accept no responsibility for unsolicited material. While ensuring that all published information is accurate, the publisher cannot be held responsible for mistakes and/or omissions. Distributed through local retailers, advertisers and by subscription.
2 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
Navigating a
FINE DINING WINE LIST
by Donniella Winchell
While the growing wine culture in Ohio
something that matches your palate and
the mid- to high-price categories. Often, a
makes of us comfortable with wine as a
expectations. You might not want to ask
wine priced just above the average of all on
beverage, often we are still intimidated
them for their favorites. Their potential “dry
the list will be a better bargain in terms of
by the pages of wines offered in upscale
palate” preference might steer you away
quality and style than those in the lowest
restaurants whose wine lists are more like
from a wine that works for you if your palate
categories.
tomes than lists. So here are a couple of
is “sweeter”.
hints to help you the next time you find yourself in that situation. Find a grape variety you know: Rieslings, Gewürztraminers and Pinot
After considering all of the above,
aromas, take just a little sip, and savor it as
Often restaurants will mark up the low end
you wait for the arrival of your entrée.
wines proportionally higher than those in
and be fresh and fruity. Pinot Gris, on the perhaps have a hint of oak. Chardonnays will usually be identified as oaked or unoaked. If you like a fresher style, opt for the latter. Pinot Noirs and Cabernets will
a little, swirl your glass to release the various
select something in a middle price range.
Grigios will likely have a hint of sweetness other hand, will probably be a little drier and
In any case, once the wine arrives, pour
Find
keywords
in the descriptions.
"Bright" "Full Bodied" "Mellow" "Intense"
likely be dry, the former with more fruit, the later with more complexity. Find keywords in the descriptions. “Mellow” likely connotes considerable sweetness. “Soft” indicates low tannins. “Bright” or “fresh” indicate considerable fruitiness. Ditto for “fruit-forward”. “Full bodied” means it is likely complex. “Complex” again refers to reds more than whites (except perhaps for Chardonnay). “Dry” does not mean sour, but it does indicate a lack of any sweetness. “Intense” probably means lots of complexity. Determine your entrée choice. Match light meals with white or rosé wines, heavier dishes with reds. Rich sauces call for wines with a little more acid (like Rieslings) or intensity (like Cabernets). Desserts match with wines that are either somewhat sweet (like cheesecake and ice wine) or quite opposite (Cabernets with chocolates). Ask your waitstaff. Share what you usually drink and they can guide you to
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings
3
Photos curtesy of DRM Productions and Todd Whitmer Creative Services
owner and executive chef of one
R
around food preparation and presentation.
who died a year ago. Bleu is a reference to
of North Central Ohio’s newer
Rita began her culinary career in the
the water which is so much a part of the
establishments for fine dining was raised
catering business. She told me she was sort
ambiance of the place. It is, after all, at the
that way. Rita was born and has lived her
of a one-woman show. While catering is still
Water’s Edge. Why is Bleu spelled with
entire life in Ashland. Parents John and
a significant part of what she does, much of
the “e” before the “u”? Simply so that you
Peg Edwards and grandparents Isabelle
her time for the last year and a half has been
would ask the questions. It’s a conversation
and John Nardini were the examples she
consumed with Bella Bleu’s, located just
starter.
followed whens it came to developing that
north of Ashland off of State Route 58.
ita Edwards loves to work. The
strong work ethic.
Her interests have always centered
Why the name? Well, Bella pays homage to Grandma Isabelle (everyone called her
Belle) and to Rita’s Labrador Retriever,
The location is in an area that was once a swimming destination for many Ashlanders: Lake Silverstone. Since
4 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
the structure, which was once a private
she was going to be pleased if 20 visitors a
paddling under the water.” The staff that
residence, sat next to the lake,
day came through the doors, because that
works with Rita at Bella Bleu’s paddles, at
Rita decided to formally name the
would pay the bills. Well, this new dining
times quite rapidly, but they are all heading
complex Bella Bleu’s at the Water’s Edge
destination did a lot more than that. In the
in the same direction.
Event Center. I told you earlier that catering
first few weeks they were open, Bella Bleu’s
was going to remain a big part of Rita’s
at the Water’s Edge welcomed 60, 70 and
describes as American cuisine which is
business plan, and it is. They do weddings,
sometimes 100 guests a day. They showed
given additional flair with special items.
parties, social events and more. But we’re
up to try out the new kid on the block.
Unique family recipes are the secret to many
going to focus on the restaurant part of the
Rita’s extensive experience in the food
The menu at Bella Bleu’s is what Rita
of her dishes. You will find many specialty
operation for the purposes of this article.
service industry has allowed her to prepare
soups, salads and sandwiches for lunch,
Rita collaborated on the design, or
and prep for the larger groups, as well as the
and several dinner favorites such as Asian
redesign, of the building with the contractor
couples who have learned about this new
salmon en papillote, chicken marsala and
and a local interior designer to make Bella
culinary destination. They often stop by to
beef brisket, along with delectable desserts
One of the reasons Rita and her staff are so enthusiastic ... is that when they talk about fresh foods, they mean it. Bleu’s a memorable destination venue.
see if what their friends told them is true.
that melt in your mouth. The newest
Basically, what Rita wanted was for those
Bella Bleu’s officially opened in early 2014,
addition to their menu is gourmet pizza.
who visited to come away saying “Wow, I
and they have built a steady following from
This is most definitely a different style of
feel like I was at home.” In fact, she calls
the locals, as well as from others who come
pizza with a unique blend of flavors. Its
that the biggest compliment anyone who
from all around this part of Ohio.
creator is a restaurant veteran who calls
dines at Bella Blue’s can give her.
Rita loves her work and she is extremely
himself “California Jim”. He once lived and
competitive, which drives her to make sure
worked in the Ashland area, left for a few
brochures, Rita’s approach is what she calls
the dining experience at her place is exactly
years, and came back. But he does more
“Gourmet Everyday”, a style which she has
what the guests expect. She expanded on
than just prepare pizzas. In fact, Rita says
perfected over the course of the 40 years
that point as we sat looking out on the lake,
his experience in the food industry gives
that she has been in the food preparation
saying, “A restaurant that is floundering
him the versatility that is an important factor
business. The rapid growth in the number
looks like the ducks on the lake outside.
to Bella Bleu's success.
of those dining at Bella Bleu’s has surprised
They look smooth on top of the water but
even the owner. Rita said that early on
you can’t imagine how fast their feet are
As you’ll read in one of the Bella Bleu’s
Rita told me that when she is interviewing potential staff members, she
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings
5
visit bellableus.com for hours, menu, directions and more information
is always looking for someone who is better
be sure to read the “Wine Wranglers” story
unique outdoor seating when the weather
at the food business than she is. If they
in this very edition of Pairings.
permits. There’s still time to enjoy that
come close to bringing that cooking flair
One of the reasons Rita and her staff are
lakeside dining even though they’re closing
with them, Rita knows they will also bring
so enthusiastic about their workplace is that
in on those fall days where you may prefer
their own food ideas with them, whether it’s
when they talk about fresh foods, they mean
the coziness and comfort of the Hearthside
soups, sauces or a new twist on an entree
it. Just outside the front door and around
Room, the centerpiece of which is a working
already on the menu.
the corner, Bella Bleu’s garden grows. When
fireplace. For hours, menu, directions and
they harvest it to prepare your meal, they
more information, visit bellableus.com.
has expanded into evening dining, as well
can select from their own herbs, spices and
Once you read about it, your taste buds will
as Sunday brunch. With that comes an
vegetables. Rita is especially proud of the
demand that your next dining destination
entirely different menu and an extensive
tomatoes which are used in so many items
be Bella Bleu’s at the Water’s Edge. Don’t
selection of fine wines to complement
on the menu.
trust me, trust Rita Edwards and her staff.
With the success of lunch, Bella Bleu’s
the dinner meals. If you’re interested in knowing a bit more about Bella Bleu’s wines,
Bella Bleu’s is a unique lakeside
$ MG
experience, which allows them to offer
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To me, nothing says fall like a glass of red wine, a warm sweater, and a great view to go with it. Fall is also crush time for vineyards, where grapes are brought in from the field and the barrelling process begins. In a celebration of this exciting time in the year for winemaking, we bring you a pair of wine destinations right off the coast of Lake Erie that are surely worth the trip for the wine and the colorful display of vines in their fall color.
Photo by
zer
Chris Pud
Photo by Chris Pudzer Photo by G
ary Weiss
and Gammie, and a partnership was born. Quarry Hill Winery purchased the property from the orchard and vines
Quarry Hill Winery
were planted across four acres of land. The business started off to a great
The first vineyard to stop at
success with Quarry Hill wines flying off
to get in the spirit of fall is Quarry
the shelves in the storefront at Quarry Hill
Hill Winery in Berlin Heights, Ohio.
Orchard. In that time, the Ohio’s wine
The vineyard, established in 2005, was a
existing operation such as a vineyard or
tourism grew, and after five years in the
collaboration between local vintner, Mac
orchard, and form a partnership from there.
business, people were clamoring to visit
McLelland, and Bill Gammie, owner of Quarry Hill Orchards.
As luck would have it, McLelland
the winery as a destination.
found Quarry Hill Orchards, a family farm
To meet the discerning tastes of
McLelland was in the wine business for
that sat high above the surrounding area.
traveling wine connoisseurs, Quarry Hill
seven years before he decided to set out on
The vineyard’s peak is 834 feet above sea
Winery built a 4,000-square-foot building to
his own. When he first began the process
level. The elevation and sandy soil, due to
house both its wine production and a wine
of starting his own winery, he decided
its proximity to Lake Erie, made the land
bar to accommodate the daily visitors.
it made most sense to find an already
ideal for growing grapes and other fruit. It
Being that the vineyard sits 100 feet above
seemed like a perfect fit to both McLelland
the surrounding area, the wine bar boasts
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings
7
stunning views of the landscape with
Red is their most popular, and a wine that
trip to the wine bar at Quarry Hill Winery
indoor and outdoor seating for the milder
shouldn’t be missed. This red blend is well
cannot be missed this fall. For hours,
months. On a clear day, guests can even
balanced with a sweet jammie flavor. Their
menus, directions, and further information,
see Lake Erie in the distance. The wine bar
Cabernet Franc will appeal to lovers of dry
visit www.quarryhillwinery.org.
features a tasting menu with light foods to
reds, but their second most popular is the
pair with their selection of wines. Guests
Riesling. In keeping with their orchard
Paper Moon Vineyards
can also get a look at the barrel cellar and
roots, they have a selection of fruit wines
viewing area to catch a glimpse of the
which include an Apple Wine that’s perfect
Vineyard is the second stop on our fall
winemaking process.
for a cool fall afternoon.
tour: Paper Moon Vineyards. Less than two
Quarry Hill Winery has fifteen varietals of wine, so there is something to be had
With good food, great wine, and a regular rotation of live entertainment, a
About ten miles from Quarry Hill
miles from Lake Erie, this scenic vineyard sits in the woods just west of the historic harbour town of Vermilion, Ohio.
for every taste. The Buckeye
Owner/winemaker, Adam Cawrse, comes from a long line of family business owners. For four generations, his family has worked for themselves. The story of their business began with Richard Cawrse, Sr., who returned from WWII and bought a dairy business with his father. The dairy operated for 36 years with an extensive home delivery service and four neighborhood stores.
eyards Paper Moon Vin
From there, the dairy business evolved
courtyard to get a commanding view of
New this year, Paper Moon Vineyards
into an even bigger operation. Richard
the vineyard and pond. Inside the main
has created their very own hard cider.
Cawrse, Jr. joined with both his father and
building, guest can enjoy a glass of wine
Crafted from local apples, this beverage
grandfather to form an institutional food
in the tasting room. Paper Moon serves
with all the flavors of fall will be served in
service corporation they called Clovervale
a variety of seasonal menu items that
house. But soon, even more will people be
Foods. Clovervale Foods serviced many
pair well with their wines. Familiar items
able to enjoy the delights of Paper Moon
school systems nationwide for many years,
include paninis, flatbread pizzas, bread and
Vineyards. They plan to eventually can the
but in 2006, Richard Cawrse, Jr. and his son
dipping oil, cheese plates, and hummus.
drink to be sold at local retailers.
Adam sold the business.
In the spirit of fall, guests may like to try
In case you don’t already have enough
Adam and his parents, being the
the Silver Lining Dry Riesling. This small
reason to make the trip to Paper Moon
consummate workers they are, couldn’t
lot wine is made from local hand-picked
Vineyards, they also host a variety of
stay idle after the sale of the business.
riesling grapes, and only about 200 cases
events throughout the season. With live
In college, Adam spent a summer in
are produced each year. It is a dry wine
music, wineglass painting classes, and
France, and the experience gave him an
with a vibrant acidity that pairs well with
major events held the second Saturday of
appreciation for great wine and a passion
the rich foods on the seasonal Oktoberfest
each month, there is always something to
for the art and science of winemaking.
menu.
do. This fall, keep an eye out for their Clam
They were already making wine at home,
A favorite among red drinkers, the
so the next logical step for the family was
Sailor’s Red is a prize winner for Paper
to plant a vineyard and build a winery.
Moon. The wine took home a silver medal
in season hours and more, visit www.
at the 2014 Indy International Wine
papermoonvineyards.com.
They bought the property for Paper Moon Vineyards in 2006, and in 2008, they
Competition. It is a lightly oaked, dry red
had their first planting. Over 4,000 vines
wine blend of Chambourcin, Marquette
were planted across five of the fifty acres of
and Noiret grapes from their own vineyard.
Bake, Oktoberfest, and Pig Roast. For more information on these events,
$ AB
property. They began producing awardwinning wines from carefully selected grapes of other vineyards, and welcomed their first vintage of estate-grown grapes in 2012. Part of the Cawrse family’s reason for
A relaxing getaway in Bellville, the heart of mid Ohio
building a vineyard was to create a place for adults to come relax and rejuvenate with a glass of great wine. From the covered patio, guests can look out over the grassy
Open to the public for dinner Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 4 to 9pm; wine bar open til 10pm. Try our own Wishmaker Wine! 116 Main Street | Bellville, Ohio
419.886.9463
wishmakerhouse.com
W
THE WINE
WRANGLERS
R I D E AGAIN… and AGAIN A friend of mine
Bill Harvey (back left) and the rest of the Wine Wranglers
in Ashland, Bill
In an article on enjoying
Harvey, is a CPA
wine, wine writer
with a taste for
Thomas Karman
the grape; in other
writes, “The
words, he loves his
enjoyment of wine
wine. Before I go
is far more than
any further, and
the mere ingestion
in the interests of
of alcohol; it can
full disclosure, I
— and should —
will tell you that
be a feast for the
Bill is a partner
senses.” That is
at Whitcomb &
how Bill Harvey
Hess and they
sees it. A dinner
have been one of
or social event
the advertisers in
built around wine
each and every
should be both
edition of Pairings. I write this story, not
again, which he didn’t. That particular
so much as a thank you for their support,
brand could be found in the cooler at a
but to show you how his passion for wine
pizza parlor he frequented. He took a
group of friends who shared the same
has grown over three decades into a
bottle home with his 14-inch pizza pie,
interest in wine and food as he and
continuing search for new and different
and the saga of the grape in the Harvey
his wife, Cindy. They decided to get
ways to enjoy it.
household was born.
together on a semi-regular basis and
Bill told me that his first exposure
It wasn’t long before he had
educational and fun. Several years ago Bill organized a
enjoy a meal at one of the couples’
to wine came when he was around 30
graduated from Riuniti to a Beringer
houses, or at an area restaurant that
years of age, and it happened in the form
White Zinfandel, then to a Kendall
featured wine on the menu. For the
of a television commercial for Riuniti
Jackson Chardonnay. According
purposes of this article, we will call them
wine. As he told me this, he broke into
to Harvey, once his taste buds had
The Wine Wranglers.
his own musical version of the jingle
adjusted to one white wine, he would
Some of those reading this story
“Riuniti on ice… Riuniti so nice”. I
try a different type the next time, and
may know the other members of the
quickly told him that I remembered
eventually he tried that first red wine and
group (all from Ashland), but for the rest
the jingle in hopes he would not sing it
his taste buds just exploded.
who don’t, I’ll share their names with
10 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
permission: Kris and Stephanie Clark,
industry has also been featured. There
doesn’t offer dramatic descriptions
Greg and Beth Gault, Scott and Karen
have been California Cab and Oregon
after a wine tasting — you know, those
Gerwig, and Roger and
Pinot Noir parties, and
Amy Kramer. The first
sometimes, according
you’re more schooled in wine selection
of the Wine Wrangler
to Bill, they have what
than you really are. They usually go
get-togethers took place
he termed “free for all”
something like this: “I get it on my nose:
about four years ago.
nights. I didn’t ask
leather, chocolate, earth and jam with a
They decided that each
for the details of that
hint of peanut butter,” they say as they
dinner would have a
event.
slowly fan the imaginary scents toward
theme.
As I said earlier,
For example, one of
Wranglers celebrations
was held at the Gerwigs’
are held at restaurants
home was called “Iberian Peninsula Night”. The Iberian Peninsula extends into the Atlantic Ocean from both Portugal and Spain, some wonderful wines in both countries. Interestingly enough, the #1 wine of 2014 on Wine Spectator’s list was from Portugal. In support of the theme, the foods and wines featured at each meal come from the countries featured. Bill Harvey did say that the rules
their nostrils.
some of the Wine
the recent dinners which
and they produce
designed to make others think that
To conclude this story about Ashland’s Wine Wranglers, I am going to once again borrow some lines from
in and around Ashland.
Thomas Karman’s article on wine basics.
This past July, three of the
This time the words are in a poetic form.
couples ventured to Bella Bleu’s, which is featured in this issue of
wine feast
Pairings. They have
"The enjoyment a fairly extensive selection of wines, of is far and their menu offers as to more than the mere suggestions which wines pair with the items ingestion of alcohol: well they’re featuring. it can -and should- A good time was once again had by all be a for who attended that night out, and none the senses." more than Bill. His writer, Thomas Karman
of the road stop just
knowledge of wine
If you’re in the mood Wine compliments food For every dish From rib roast to fish Taste is important Change is constant So don’t be a dork And go pop a cork Whatever the reason No matter what season To really feel fine It’s got to be wine!
$ MG
has certainly grown
short of requiring that all guests must
through the years, although he still calls
dress in the local garb of those countries
himself a Connoisseur of Wannabe. He
referenced in the theme. If that were not the case, you can imagine how difficult it would be to find outfits for “Mongolian Merlot Night”. In order to be a Wine Wrangler host, you must also agree to do your
CPAs & Financial Advisors…
a great pairing.
homework, because the person in
William Harvey, CPA
charge is expected to give a report on
419.289.7007 | wharvey@whitcomb.com
the wine and a culinary history of the geographical area or country being saluted. I imagine it to be a sort of book
1020 Cleveland Ave. | Ashland, OH 44805
report with giggles. The domestic wine
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings
11
Coming Soon! Spring 2016
TASTE
DINE
STAY
Celebrate Life! AT
GERVASI
V I N E YA R D
1700 55TH ST NE, CANTON, OH 44721 WWW.GERVASIVINEYARD.COM 330.497.1000
We will be launching FOCUS: a special interest, companion publication to the March/April issue of Heart of Ohio magazine.
12 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
Wine Speak Brush up on your wine vocabulary with this tidbit
A Toast... Hear, Hear!
of wine-related terms.
Some historians believe the clinking of glasses during the toast was designed to drive away demons and ghosts from
limited the intake of alcohol. Toastmasters clubs still exist today. As much as things have changed
ancient celebrations. Others say the
through the centuries, the tradition
clanking of glasses sloshed the contents
remains. Today a toast offered at a dinner
than Americans. Whether we are
from one glass to another, thus eliminating
party is usually made by the host at the
welcoming new neighbors with a plate of
any fear the guests might have harbored of
beginning of the meal. Additional toasts
fresh cookies, or preparing a huge dinner
being poisoned by the host.
may be made by guests during the dessert
No one enjoys their traditions more
after a funeral service, we are a nation
The ancient Greeks offered libations
course. The customary clink of glasses is
focused on marking our traditions with
to appease the gods in their rituals. The
nice, but simply making eye contact and
food and drink.
Romans believed so strongly in drinking
nodding is acceptable and may be more
Every event is different, but one thing
to health that the Senate passed a decree
practical at a large gathering. The object
that seems to be a constant at most
stating everyone must drink to Emperor
of the toast does not stand, nor does he/
gatherings is the toast. Where did that
Augustus at every meal. Today, “To your
she drink. When the toast is finished, a
particular tradition come from, and why do
health” is still the most common toast
simple thank you is in order.
we make toasts anyway?
worldwide.
The word ‘toast’ actually came from the
Raising a glass in toast is as much a
By the seventeenth and eighteenth
part of our celebrations today as it was
practice of putting a piece of burned bread
centuries, toasts had become so elaborate
hundreds of years ago, and I believe it
in a jug of wine. The charcoal actually
and intoxicating that the service of a
always will be. Here’s to your health!
reduced the acidity of slightly off wines,
Toastmaster was required. This newly
making them more palatable. Waste not,
created job kept guests from toasting
want not.
everyone in the room and somewhat
$ DC
The best or nothing.
for life
Now it gets interesting.
All available at
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