Pairings Fall 2015

Pairings A COMPANION PUBLICATION TO HEART OF OHIO MAGAZINE

FALL 2015

From first sip to last bite

Flavor

Fine Dining & More

@

Enjoy a lakeside experience with outdoor seating when weather permits, while our Hearthside Room is comfortable during the colder seasons with the ambiance of a warm fireplace. Our Bistro Room is great for special small parties or watching games with TV access beside the bar area.

We offer Boxed Lunches for Pick-Up or Delivery.

A meal prepared to perfection with a variety of Bella Bleu’s specialty items. Family recipes make Bella’s meals all that more special with flavors to satisfy and keep you coming back for more!

Check out our complete lunch menu at bellableus.com.

Water’s Edge is Also available for WEDDINGS • BUSINESS MEETINGS • PARTIES • HOLIDAYS • SOCIAL GATHERINGS 170 Summerset Dr. | Ashland, Ohio 44805 | 419.281.1187 | watersedgeashland.com

Contents 0 3 |

Navigating a Fine Dining Wine List

0 4 |

Ashland's Bella Bleu's

0 7 |

Wine on the Way to the Lake

10 |

The Wine Wranglers Ride

13 |

Wine Speak

Again...and Again

A Toast...Hear, Hear!

FALL 2015

From the Editor There are few things that go so well with Heart of Ohio as Pairings magazine. So, back by popular demand, we bring you the sixth issue of Pairings. In these pages you will find an assortment of pairings which prove that Ohio has great flavor — from the first sip, to the last bite.

As the wine industry grows in our region, so do restaurants’ already dauntingly long wine lists. Doniella will help you tackle those wine lists, and their often confusing terms, to find the perfect vino to suit your tastes, and your entrée.

Mike takes us to Bella Bleu’s of Ashland, where “Gourmet Everyday” cuisine pairs oh so well with a great selection of regional wine. In his story, “Wine Wranglers”, Mike will also show us that wine’s best pairing of all is good friends.

I’ll be sharing a pair of wine destinations ripe for an afternoon of fall fun in “Wine Off the Lake”, and our issue ends, not with dessert, but with a toast. Last, but never least, Diana shares the history of toasts in her column “Winespeak”.

And here’s one more pairing for you: this magazine pairs great with a glass of wine!

Adelyn Belsterling, Editor

Publisher SunGraphics, Inc. Diane K. Brown, President diane@sungraphicsinc.com Editor Adelyn Belsterling editor@heartofohiomagazine.com Sales & Marketing Mike Greene mike@heartofohiomagazine.com Diane Brown diane@heartofohiomagazine.com Contributing Writers Adelyn Belsterling Diana L. Coon Mike Greene Donniella Winchell Graphic Designer Barbie Waters Circulation Michelle Fredmonsky-Harvey michelle@sungraphicsinc.com

Let's keep in touch

Becky Herrick maildept@sungraphicsinc.com Pairings is printed and published biannually by SunGraphics, Inc.

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Copyright 2015, Heart of Ohio Magazine, LLC. ISSN 2158-8732. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permission. SunGraphics, Inc. and Heart of Ohio Magazine, LLC accept no responsibility for unsolicited material. While ensuring that all published information is accurate, the publisher cannot be held responsible for mistakes and/or omissions. Distributed through local retailers, advertisers and by subscription.

2 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings

Navigating a

FINE DINING WINE LIST

by Donniella Winchell

While the growing wine culture in Ohio

something that matches your palate and

the mid- to high-price categories. Often, a

makes of us comfortable with wine as a

expectations. You might not want to ask

wine priced just above the average of all on

beverage, often we are still intimidated

them for their favorites. Their potential “dry

the list will be a better bargain in terms of

by the pages of wines offered in upscale

palate” preference might steer you away

quality and style than those in the lowest

restaurants whose wine lists are more like

from a wine that works for you if your palate

categories.

tomes than lists. So here are a couple of

is “sweeter”.

hints to help you the next time you find yourself in that situation.

Find a grape variety you know: Rieslings, Gewürztraminers and Pinot

After considering all of the above,

aromas, take just a little sip, and savor it as

Often restaurants will mark up the low end

you wait for the arrival of your entrée.

wines proportionally higher than those in

and be fresh and fruity. Pinot Gris, on the perhaps have a hint of oak. Chardonnays will usually be identified as oaked or unoaked. If you like a fresher style, opt for the latter. Pinot Noirs and Cabernets will

a little, swirl your glass to release the various

select something in a middle price range.

Grigios will likely have a hint of sweetness other hand, will probably be a little drier and

In any case, once the wine arrives, pour

Find

keywords

in the descriptions.

"Bright" "Full Bodied" "Mellow" "Intense"

likely be dry, the former with more fruit, the later with more complexity.

Find keywords in the descriptions.

“Mellow” likely connotes considerable sweetness. “Soft” indicates low tannins.

“Bright” or “fresh” indicate considerable fruitiness. Ditto for “fruit-forward”. “Full bodied” means it is likely complex.

“Complex” again refers to reds more than whites (except perhaps for Chardonnay).

“Dry” does not mean sour, but it does indicate a lack of any sweetness. “Intense” probably means lots of complexity.

Determine your entrée choice. Match light meals with white or rosé wines, heavier dishes with reds. Rich sauces call for wines with a little more acid (like Rieslings) or intensity (like Cabernets).

Desserts match with wines that are either somewhat sweet (like cheesecake and ice wine) or quite opposite (Cabernets with chocolates).

Ask your waitstaff. Share what you usually drink and they can guide you to

heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings

3

Photos curtesy of DRM Productions and Todd Whitmer Creative Services

owner and executive chef of one

R

around food preparation and presentation.

who died a year ago. Bleu is a reference to

of North Central Ohio’s newer

Rita began her culinary career in the

the water which is so much a part of the

establishments for fine dining was raised

catering business. She told me she was sort

ambiance of the place. It is, after all, at the

that way. Rita was born and has lived her

of a one-woman show. While catering is still

Water’s Edge. Why is Bleu spelled with

entire life in Ashland. Parents John and

a significant part of what she does, much of

the “e” before the “u”? Simply so that you

Peg Edwards and grandparents Isabelle

her time for the last year and a half has been

would ask the questions. It’s a conversation

and John Nardini were the examples she

consumed with Bella Bleu’s, located just

starter.

followed whens it came to developing that

north of Ashland off of State Route 58.

ita Edwards loves to work. The

strong work ethic.

Her interests have always centered

Why the name? Well, Bella pays homage to Grandma Isabelle (everyone called her

Belle) and to Rita’s Labrador Retriever,

The location is in an area that was once a swimming destination for many Ashlanders: Lake Silverstone. Since

4 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings

the structure, which was once a private

she was going to be pleased if 20 visitors a

paddling under the water.” The staff that

residence, sat next to the lake,

day came through the doors, because that

works with Rita at Bella Bleu’s paddles, at

Rita decided to formally name the

would pay the bills. Well, this new dining

times quite rapidly, but they are all heading

complex Bella Bleu’s at the Water’s Edge

destination did a lot more than that. In the

in the same direction.

Event Center. I told you earlier that catering

first few weeks they were open, Bella Bleu’s

was going to remain a big part of Rita’s

at the Water’s Edge welcomed 60, 70 and

describes as American cuisine which is

business plan, and it is. They do weddings,

sometimes 100 guests a day. They showed

given additional flair with special items.

parties, social events and more. But we’re

up to try out the new kid on the block.

Unique family recipes are the secret to many

going to focus on the restaurant part of the

Rita’s extensive experience in the food

The menu at Bella Bleu’s is what Rita

of her dishes. You will find many specialty

operation for the purposes of this article.

service industry has allowed her to prepare

soups, salads and sandwiches for lunch,

Rita collaborated on the design, or

and prep for the larger groups, as well as the

and several dinner favorites such as Asian

redesign, of the building with the contractor

couples who have learned about this new

salmon en papillote, chicken marsala and

and a local interior designer to make Bella

culinary destination. They often stop by to

beef brisket, along with delectable desserts

One of the reasons Rita and her staff are so enthusiastic ... is that when they talk about fresh foods, they mean it.

Bleu’s a memorable destination venue.

see if what their friends told them is true.

that melt in your mouth. The newest

Basically, what Rita wanted was for those

Bella Bleu’s officially opened in early 2014,

addition to their menu is gourmet pizza.

who visited to come away saying “Wow, I

and they have built a steady following from

This is most definitely a different style of

feel like I was at home.” In fact, she calls

the locals, as well as from others who come

pizza with a unique blend of flavors. Its

that the biggest compliment anyone who

from all around this part of Ohio.

creator is a restaurant veteran who calls

dines at Bella Blue’s can give her.

Rita loves her work and she is extremely

himself “California Jim”. He once lived and

competitive, which drives her to make sure

worked in the Ashland area, left for a few

brochures, Rita’s approach is what she calls

the dining experience at her place is exactly

years, and came back. But he does more

“Gourmet Everyday”, a style which she has

what the guests expect. She expanded on

than just prepare pizzas. In fact, Rita says

perfected over the course of the 40 years

that point as we sat looking out on the lake,

his experience in the food industry gives

that she has been in the food preparation

saying, “A restaurant that is floundering

him the versatility that is an important factor

business. The rapid growth in the number

looks like the ducks on the lake outside.

to Bella Bleu's success.

of those dining at Bella Bleu’s has surprised

They look smooth on top of the water but

even the owner. Rita said that early on

you can’t imagine how fast their feet are

As you’ll read in one of the Bella Bleu’s

Rita told me that when she is interviewing potential staff members, she

heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings

5

visit bellableus.com for hours, menu, directions and more information

is always looking for someone who is better

be sure to read the “Wine Wranglers” story

unique outdoor seating when the weather

at the food business than she is. If they

in this very edition of Pairings.

permits. There’s still time to enjoy that

come close to bringing that cooking flair

One of the reasons Rita and her staff are

lakeside dining even though they’re closing

with them, Rita knows they will also bring

so enthusiastic about their workplace is that

in on those fall days where you may prefer

their own food ideas with them, whether it’s

when they talk about fresh foods, they mean

the coziness and comfort of the Hearthside

soups, sauces or a new twist on an entree

it. Just outside the front door and around

Room, the centerpiece of which is a working

already on the menu.

the corner, Bella Bleu’s garden grows. When

fireplace. For hours, menu, directions and

they harvest it to prepare your meal, they

more information, visit bellableus.com.

has expanded into evening dining, as well

can select from their own herbs, spices and

Once you read about it, your taste buds will

as Sunday brunch. With that comes an

vegetables. Rita is especially proud of the

demand that your next dining destination

entirely different menu and an extensive

tomatoes which are used in so many items

be Bella Bleu’s at the Water’s Edge. Don’t

selection of fine wines to complement

on the menu.

trust me, trust Rita Edwards and her staff.

With the success of lunch, Bella Bleu’s

the dinner meals. If you’re interested in knowing a bit more about Bella Bleu’s wines,

Bella Bleu’s is a unique lakeside

$ MG

experience, which allows them to offer

• • • •

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To me, nothing says fall like a glass of red wine, a warm sweater, and a great view to go with it. Fall is also crush time for vineyards, where grapes are brought in from the field and the barrelling process begins. In a celebration of this exciting time in the year for winemaking, we bring you a pair of wine destinations right off the coast of Lake Erie that are surely worth the trip for the wine and the colorful display of vines in their fall color.

Photo by

zer

Chris Pud

Photo by Chris Pudzer Photo by G

ary Weiss

and Gammie, and a partnership was born. Quarry Hill Winery purchased the property from the orchard and vines

Quarry Hill Winery

were planted across four acres of land.

The business started off to a great

The first vineyard to stop at

success with Quarry Hill wines flying off

to get in the spirit of fall is Quarry

the shelves in the storefront at Quarry Hill

Hill Winery in Berlin Heights, Ohio.

Orchard. In that time, the Ohio’s wine

The vineyard, established in 2005, was a

existing operation such as a vineyard or

tourism grew, and after five years in the

collaboration between local vintner, Mac

orchard, and form a partnership from there.

business, people were clamoring to visit

McLelland, and Bill Gammie, owner of Quarry Hill Orchards.

As luck would have it, McLelland

the winery as a destination.

found Quarry Hill Orchards, a family farm

To meet the discerning tastes of

McLelland was in the wine business for

that sat high above the surrounding area.

traveling wine connoisseurs, Quarry Hill

seven years before he decided to set out on

The vineyard’s peak is 834 feet above sea

Winery built a 4,000-square-foot building to

his own. When he first began the process

level. The elevation and sandy soil, due to

house both its wine production and a wine

of starting his own winery, he decided

its proximity to Lake Erie, made the land

bar to accommodate the daily visitors.

it made most sense to find an already

ideal for growing grapes and other fruit. It

Being that the vineyard sits 100 feet above

seemed like a perfect fit to both McLelland

the surrounding area, the wine bar boasts

heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings

7

stunning views of the landscape with

Red is their most popular, and a wine that

trip to the wine bar at Quarry Hill Winery

indoor and outdoor seating for the milder

shouldn’t be missed. This red blend is well

cannot be missed this fall. For hours,

months. On a clear day, guests can even

balanced with a sweet jammie flavor. Their

menus, directions, and further information,

see Lake Erie in the distance. The wine bar

Cabernet Franc will appeal to lovers of dry

visit www.quarryhillwinery.org.

features a tasting menu with light foods to

reds, but their second most popular is the

pair with their selection of wines. Guests

Riesling. In keeping with their orchard

Paper Moon Vineyards

can also get a look at the barrel cellar and

roots, they have a selection of fruit wines

viewing area to catch a glimpse of the

which include an Apple Wine that’s perfect

Vineyard is the second stop on our fall

winemaking process.

for a cool fall afternoon.

tour: Paper Moon Vineyards. Less than two

Quarry Hill Winery has fifteen varietals of wine, so there is something to be had

With good food, great wine, and a regular rotation of live entertainment, a

About ten miles from Quarry Hill

miles from Lake Erie, this scenic vineyard sits in the woods just west of the historic harbour town of Vermilion, Ohio.

for every taste. The Buckeye

Owner/winemaker, Adam Cawrse, comes from a long line of family business owners. For four generations, his family has worked for themselves. The story of their business began with Richard Cawrse, Sr., who returned from WWII and bought a dairy business with his father.

The dairy operated for 36 years with an extensive home delivery service and four neighborhood stores.

eyards Paper Moon Vin

From there, the dairy business evolved

courtyard to get a commanding view of

New this year, Paper Moon Vineyards

into an even bigger operation. Richard

the vineyard and pond. Inside the main

has created their very own hard cider.

Cawrse, Jr. joined with both his father and

building, guest can enjoy a glass of wine

Crafted from local apples, this beverage

grandfather to form an institutional food

in the tasting room. Paper Moon serves

with all the flavors of fall will be served in

service corporation they called Clovervale

a variety of seasonal menu items that

house. But soon, even more will people be

Foods. Clovervale Foods serviced many

pair well with their wines. Familiar items

able to enjoy the delights of Paper Moon

school systems nationwide for many years,

include paninis, flatbread pizzas, bread and

Vineyards. They plan to eventually can the

but in 2006, Richard Cawrse, Jr. and his son

dipping oil, cheese plates, and hummus.

drink to be sold at local retailers.

Adam sold the business.

In the spirit of fall, guests may like to try

In case you don’t already have enough

Adam and his parents, being the

the Silver Lining Dry Riesling. This small

reason to make the trip to Paper Moon

consummate workers they are, couldn’t

lot wine is made from local hand-picked

Vineyards, they also host a variety of

stay idle after the sale of the business.

riesling grapes, and only about 200 cases

events throughout the season. With live

In college, Adam spent a summer in

are produced each year. It is a dry wine

music, wineglass painting classes, and

France, and the experience gave him an

with a vibrant acidity that pairs well with

major events held the second Saturday of

appreciation for great wine and a passion

the rich foods on the seasonal Oktoberfest

each month, there is always something to

for the art and science of winemaking.

menu.

do. This fall, keep an eye out for their Clam

They were already making wine at home,

A favorite among red drinkers, the

so the next logical step for the family was

Sailor’s Red is a prize winner for Paper

to plant a vineyard and build a winery.

Moon. The wine took home a silver medal

in season hours and more, visit www.

at the 2014 Indy International Wine

papermoonvineyards.com.

They bought the property for Paper Moon Vineyards in 2006, and in 2008, they

Competition. It is a lightly oaked, dry red

had their first planting. Over 4,000 vines

wine blend of Chambourcin, Marquette

were planted across five of the fifty acres of

and Noiret grapes from their own vineyard.

Bake, Oktoberfest, and Pig Roast.

For more information on these events,

$ AB

property. They began producing awardwinning wines from carefully selected grapes of other vineyards, and welcomed their first vintage of estate-grown grapes in 2012.

Part of the Cawrse family’s reason for

A relaxing getaway in Bellville, the heart of mid Ohio

building a vineyard was to create a place for adults to come relax and rejuvenate with a glass of great wine. From the covered patio, guests can look out over the grassy

Open to the public for dinner Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 4 to 9pm; wine bar open til 10pm. Try our own Wishmaker Wine!

116 Main Street | Bellville, Ohio

419.886.9463

wishmakerhouse.com

W

THE WINE

WRANGLERS

R I D E AGAIN… and AGAIN A friend of mine

Bill Harvey (back left) and the rest of the Wine Wranglers

in Ashland, Bill

In an article on enjoying

Harvey, is a CPA

wine, wine writer

with a taste for

Thomas Karman

the grape; in other

writes, “The

words, he loves his

enjoyment of wine

wine. Before I go

is far more than

any further, and

the mere ingestion

in the interests of

of alcohol; it can

full disclosure, I

— and should —

will tell you that

be a feast for the

Bill is a partner

senses.” That is

at Whitcomb &

how Bill Harvey

Hess and they

sees it. A dinner

have been one of

or social event

the advertisers in

built around wine

each and every

should be both

edition of Pairings. I write this story, not

again, which he didn’t. That particular

so much as a thank you for their support,

brand could be found in the cooler at a

but to show you how his passion for wine

pizza parlor he frequented. He took a

group of friends who shared the same

has grown over three decades into a

bottle home with his 14-inch pizza pie,

interest in wine and food as he and

continuing search for new and different

and the saga of the grape in the Harvey

his wife, Cindy. They decided to get

ways to enjoy it.

household was born.

together on a semi-regular basis and

Bill told me that his first exposure

It wasn’t long before he had

educational and fun.

Several years ago Bill organized a

enjoy a meal at one of the couples’

to wine came when he was around 30

graduated from Riuniti to a Beringer

houses, or at an area restaurant that

years of age, and it happened in the form

White Zinfandel, then to a Kendall

featured wine on the menu. For the

of a television commercial for Riuniti

Jackson Chardonnay. According

purposes of this article, we will call them

wine. As he told me this, he broke into

to Harvey, once his taste buds had

The Wine Wranglers.

his own musical version of the jingle

adjusted to one white wine, he would

Some of those reading this story

“Riuniti on ice… Riuniti so nice”. I

try a different type the next time, and

may know the other members of the

quickly told him that I remembered

eventually he tried that first red wine and

group (all from Ashland), but for the rest

the jingle in hopes he would not sing it

his taste buds just exploded.

who don’t, I’ll share their names with

10 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings

permission: Kris and Stephanie Clark,

industry has also been featured. There

doesn’t offer dramatic descriptions

Greg and Beth Gault, Scott and Karen

have been California Cab and Oregon

after a wine tasting — you know, those

Gerwig, and Roger and

Pinot Noir parties, and

Amy Kramer. The first

sometimes, according

you’re more schooled in wine selection

of the Wine Wrangler

to Bill, they have what

than you really are. They usually go

get-togethers took place

he termed “free for all”

something like this: “I get it on my nose:

about four years ago.

nights. I didn’t ask

leather, chocolate, earth and jam with a

They decided that each

for the details of that

hint of peanut butter,” they say as they

dinner would have a

event.

slowly fan the imaginary scents toward

theme.

As I said earlier,

For example, one of

Wranglers celebrations

was held at the Gerwigs’

are held at restaurants

home was called “Iberian Peninsula Night”. The Iberian Peninsula extends into the Atlantic Ocean from both Portugal and Spain, some wonderful wines in both countries.

Interestingly enough, the #1 wine of 2014 on Wine Spectator’s list was from Portugal.

In support of the theme, the foods and wines featured at each meal come from the countries featured. Bill Harvey did say that the rules

their nostrils.

some of the Wine

the recent dinners which

and they produce

designed to make others think that

To conclude this story about Ashland’s Wine Wranglers, I am going to once again borrow some lines from

in and around Ashland.

Thomas Karman’s article on wine basics.

This past July, three of the

This time the words are in a poetic form.

couples ventured to Bella Bleu’s, which is featured in this issue of

wine feast

Pairings. They have

"The enjoyment a fairly extensive selection of wines, of is far and their menu offers as to more than the mere suggestions which wines pair with the items ingestion of alcohol: well they’re featuring. it can -and should- A good time was once again had by all be a for who attended that night out, and none the senses." more than Bill. His writer, Thomas Karman

of the road stop just

knowledge of wine

If you’re in the mood Wine compliments food For every dish From rib roast to fish Taste is important Change is constant So don’t be a dork And go pop a cork Whatever the reason No matter what season To really feel fine It’s got to be wine!

$ MG

has certainly grown

short of requiring that all guests must

through the years, although he still calls

dress in the local garb of those countries

himself a Connoisseur of Wannabe. He

referenced in the theme. If that were not the case, you can imagine how difficult it would be to find outfits for “Mongolian Merlot Night”.

In order to be a Wine Wrangler host, you must also agree to do your

CPAs & Financial Advisors…

a great pairing.

homework, because the person in

William Harvey, CPA

charge is expected to give a report on

419.289.7007 | wharvey@whitcomb.com

the wine and a culinary history of the geographical area or country being saluted. I imagine it to be a sort of book

1020 Cleveland Ave. | Ashland, OH 44805

report with giggles. The domestic wine

heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings

11

Coming Soon!

Spring 2016

TASTE

DINE

STAY

Celebrate Life!

AT

GERVASI

V I N E YA R D

1700 55TH ST NE, CANTON, OH 44721 WWW.GERVASIVINEYARD.COM 330.497.1000

We will be launching FOCUS: a special interest, companion publication to the March/April issue of Heart of Ohio magazine.

12 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings

Wine Speak Brush up on your wine vocabulary with this tidbit

A Toast...

Hear, Hear!

of wine-related terms.

Some historians believe the clinking of glasses during the toast was designed to drive away demons and ghosts from

limited the intake of alcohol. Toastmasters clubs still exist today.

As much as things have changed

ancient celebrations. Others say the

through the centuries, the tradition

clanking of glasses sloshed the contents

remains. Today a toast offered at a dinner

than Americans. Whether we are

from one glass to another, thus eliminating

party is usually made by the host at the

welcoming new neighbors with a plate of

any fear the guests might have harbored of

beginning of the meal. Additional toasts

fresh cookies, or preparing a huge dinner

being poisoned by the host.

may be made by guests during the dessert

No one enjoys their traditions more

after a funeral service, we are a nation

The ancient Greeks offered libations

course. The customary clink of glasses is

focused on marking our traditions with

to appease the gods in their rituals. The

nice, but simply making eye contact and

food and drink.

Romans believed so strongly in drinking

nodding is acceptable and may be more

Every event is different, but one thing

to health that the Senate passed a decree

practical at a large gathering. The object

that seems to be a constant at most

stating everyone must drink to Emperor

of the toast does not stand, nor does he/

gatherings is the toast. Where did that

Augustus at every meal. Today, “To your

she drink. When the toast is finished, a

particular tradition come from, and why do

health” is still the most common toast

simple thank you is in order.

we make toasts anyway?

worldwide.

The word ‘toast’ actually came from the

Raising a glass in toast is as much a

By the seventeenth and eighteenth

part of our celebrations today as it was

practice of putting a piece of burned bread

centuries, toasts had become so elaborate

hundreds of years ago, and I believe it

in a jug of wine. The charcoal actually

and intoxicating that the service of a

always will be. Here’s to your health!

reduced the acidity of slightly off wines,

Toastmaster was required. This newly

making them more palatable. Waste not,

created job kept guests from toasting

want not.

everyone in the room and somewhat

$ DC

The best or nothing.

for life

Now it gets interesting.

All available at

1493 Park Ave. West, Mansfield | 419.529.4000 | 800.762.8824 | mmgauto.com