Pairings Fall 2014

Pairings A COMPANION PUBLICATION TO HEART OF OHIO MAGAZINE

FALL 2014

Setting the sun

on another great

summer

Contents FALL 2014

photograph by

Jason Joseph Photography see below

01 |

Sharing the Bounty

0 3 |

It's Only a Paper Moon

0 5 |

Degrees of Excellence

0 7 |

Some Cues for Pool Table Restoration

Hosting a Wine Tasting Party

A Private Tasting with Paper Moon Winery

Viticulture & Enology at Kent State

10 |

Magic & Charm on Lake Erie

13 |

Tradition on Tap

15 |

Gentile on Your Wine

17 |

Wine Speak

Mon Ami Restaurant & Historic Winery

Phoenix Brewing Company

Roger Gentile

Oenophobia — the fear of wine

JASON M. JOSEPH has been producing commercial,

Jason's photo's are featured in the article, "It's Only a

editorial, wedding and portrait photography for over 14

Paper Moon" in this issue of Pairings.

years. His work has been featured on Good Morning

Jason Joseph Photography is located in Dublin, Ohio.

America and the Oprah Winfrey Network, and has been

To discuss your project, call 614-315-4045, or visit on the

published in The Wall Street Journal.

web at jasonjosephphotography.net and on Facebook.

SHARING THE BOUNTY

I

by Donniella Winchell

f you attended some of Ohio’s summer wine festivals, you probably brought home a bottle

or two in the process. Now, with the heat of the summer behind us, the cooler evenings offer a perfect time to plan a wine tasting party! Here are some suggestions as you prepare your get together.

To expand your collection, you could invite your guest to BYOB. In any case, it is best to select four or

clustered on its surface. If only one

SMELL THE WINE to observe the

glass style is available, tulip-shaped

“nose”. Young wines emit fresh and

glasses are generally the best choice.

fruity aromas. The bouquet of older

Spread a plain white tablecloth. A

wines is more complex. Depending

five wines of a single varietal (grape

simple background will allow tasters

on the variety and age, white wines

type) or color so comparisons will be

to evaluate color and intensity. Supply

release citrus, apricot, melon, honey

easier for the newbies in your group.

notepaper so guests can compare

or pineapple aromas. Older reds may

If you choose a flight of whites, each

notes and discuss favorites.

remind the taster of toast, coffee, tea,

bottle should be chilled for several

Pour only 2-3 ounces of wine so

tobacco, cloves or bell peppers. Wines

hours before serving. Reds should

it can be swirled to release all of the

aged in oak often acquire vanilla-like

be served at about 60 degrees (i.e.,

aromatics and no one over-imbibes.

characteristics.

cellar temperature, not actual room

During the tasting, serve simple

temperature), so put them on ice for

breads and relatively neutral cheeses

AFTER SWIRLING. The contrast and

a half hour or so. If you choose to

to clear the palate between varieties.

intensity levels are usually dramatic,

mix colors, varieties, vintage dates or sweetness levels, plan to serve whites before reds, lighter-bodied vintages

Provide some tasting tips and techniques for your guests: OBSERVE THE COLOR by

SMELL THE WINE BEFORE AND

as the aeration releases aromas.

Only then should everyone TASTE THE WINE by sloshing it around in

before heavier ones; pour dry before

tilting the glass against the simple

their mouths to expose all the taste

sweet, young wines before older ones.

background. The wine should be clear

buds to the entire sample. Flavors

Glasses are important. Choose

without foreign matter. White wines

should be balanced, with the fruit, acids

plain, stemmed ones with a thin rim

range from nearly colorless to golden

and sweetness working in harmony.

or “bead”. Colored bowls, intricate

in hue. Younger wines may have a

Astringent wine is unpleasant; cloying

decorations and a thick bead detract

greenish cast; more mature wines take

syrupiness is equally offensive.

from the experience. A stem allows the

on the color of straw. Oak-aged whites

wine to be easily swirled, and keeps it

are darker than those made in stainless

a lasting, overall impression called

at an optimum temperature. If a red is

tanks. Young reds should show hints

“finish”. This rather nebulous term

too cold, the bowl can be “cupped” to

of purple and violet. As reds mature,

describes the length of time aromas

warm the wine ever so slightly.

they become cherry-like in color, and,

and flavors linger in the mind and on

If you can, taller tulip-shaped

Finally, the wine should leave

as they age, will exhibit shades of

the palate. A long finish is desirable

glasses work best for whites and large

brick. Blush or rosé wines will display

and usually connotes a better wine.

open “bowls” are recommended for

soft pink colors or pale red undertones.

reds. The various shapes of the glass

SWIRL THE WINE. Sweet wines

deliver wine to different parts of the

and more full bodied ones will cling to

mouth where the tongue has sweet,

the side, forming ‘”legs”, while lighter,

salt, tart, protein and bitter sensors

drier wines usually have no legs.

When the wine rack is empty, it’s time to plan a trip to another Ohio winery! $ For additional information: dwinchell@ohiowines.org

heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings

1

From the Editor “Wine makes every meal an occasion, every table more elegant, every day more civilized.” – Andre Simon In this fall issue of Pairings, we want to introduce you to Roger Gentile, wine critic, teacher, wine seller and author. He sat down not too long ago to discuss his career, his love of wine and to share his knowledge… you are the lucky recipient of that interview.

“Degrees of Excellence” is our first article from Siera Marth. I know you’ll enjoy it, and we can all look forward to more articles from this talented young woman.

Mansfield’s newest brewery is now open in one of the city’s oldest buildings… read “Tradition on Tap” to learn about this new business venture in middle of the downtown.

The Lake Erie wine country is well represented in this issue. We visited Mon Ami Restaurant and Winery in Port Clinton, and accepted an invitation to a wine tasting get together in that same town.

Please take the time to sit back, relax and savor this fall edition of Pairings just as you do your favorite wine.

Diana L. Coon, Editor

Winee

is your business

Preserve the fruits of your labor with an insurance program designed specifically to address exposures inherent in the wine industry.

www.rfmeins.com 800.755.7363 – Ask for Nancy Them 44 Sturges Avenue | Mansfield, OH 44902

Publisher SunGraphics, Inc. Diane K. Brown, President diane@sungraphicsinc.com Editor Diana L. Coon editor@heartofohiomagazine.com Sales & Marketing Mike Greene mike@heartofohiomagazine.com Diane Brown diane@heartofohiomagazine.com Contributing Writers Diana L. Coon Mike Greene Donniella Winchell Siera Marth Graphic Designer Tom Hofacre Circulation Michelle Fredmonsky-Harvey michelle@sungraphicsinc.com Becky Herrick maildept@sungraphicsinc.com Pairings is printed and published biannually by SunGraphics, Inc.

41 Longview Ave. E., Mansfield, Ohio 44903 Copyright 2014, Heart of Ohio Magazine, LLC. ISSN 2158-8732. All rights reserved.

Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permission. SunGraphics, Inc. and Heart of Ohio Magazine, LLC accept no responsibility for unsolicited material. While ensuring that all published information is accurate, the publisher cannot be held responsible for mistakes and/or omissions. Distributed through local retailers, advertisers and by subscription.

2 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings

Nothing says “good times” like a gathering of friends around your table.

That’s the kind of evening Karen and Jim Ruth created at their retreat in Port Clinton when they invited their friend, Cheryl Cawrse to conduct a private wine tasting for their group. Cheryl is President and owner of Paper Moon Winery in Vermilion, Ohio.

As the group was seated, Cheryl explained this would be a clock tasting. The plates before them were arranged, beginning at twelve o’clock, with four different types of tasty items to pair with four different wines. In the center of the plate, a cookie waited to be enjoyed with the dessert wine. Between each course, a plain cracker served as a palate cleanser.

The first tasting was a marinated mushroom and black olive that was paired with Lighthouse, a wine made from Cayuga grapes grown in the

It’s only a

n o o M

r e Pap

Photography by Jason Joseph Photography

Lake Erie Appalachian region.

Course number two, Colby cheese, was served with Silver Lining, a wine made with locally grown Riesling grapes and finished dry.

Course number three, salami, was paired with Message in a Bottle. Similar to a merlot, this wine is made from Carbineer grapes imported from South America.

The fourth course, paired deliciously with first jack cheese, was Paper Moon’s best-selling wine, American Harvest Blend.

Cheryl poured as she explained, “When we first started the winery in 2008 we had bottled everything, but we still had several partial

a member of the board of the Ohio Wine Producers Association, I’ve heard so many stories about the losses the industry has suffered. The Ohio State University Vita Culture department is conducting research to try to get the state to declare an agricultural disaster. That would help make funding available to growers so they can begin to rebuild their vineyards. Many will never recover.”

Jim and Karen Ruth created an enjoyable evening for their friends and barrels of wines left. My son suggested

times the only drink was mead. When

family, and we appreciate them for inviting

we might just mix them together to see

a couple married they were to be given

Pairings to join them.

what that would produce. I made them

enough mead to last from their wedding

You will find Paper Moon Vineyards at

wait till I got a notebook to mark down the

night to the next moon; hence the term

2008 State Route 60 in Vermilion, or visit the

exact amounts of everything we mixed

‘honeymoon’.” Paper Moon’s Honeymoon

website, papermoonvineyards.com. $ DC

because I had a suspicion we might

Mead is created from locally harvested

just end up with something good. I was

honey, fermented and then back

right!” All the guests concurred as they

sweetened to perfection.

enjoyed their sampling.

Finally, that shortbread cookie with

As the conversation — and the wine — flowed, Sheryl explained the impact last

a light chocolate center was served with

winter’s crippling temperatures has had on

something unusual and delicious. As

the wine growers in Ohio. “Many wineries

Sheryl poured the sampling of Honeymoon

are facing losses of one third to one half of

Mead for each guest, she told them the

their vines. The northeast was hit worse

legend about the term. “In ancient Celtic

than the Lake Erie shores region, but, as

4 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings

Degrees of

EXCELLENCE

by Siera Marth

Galileo said, “Wine is sunshine held together by water.”

While it takes both sunlight and water to grow grapes destined to become wine, it is under the care of steady hands V&E Instructor Eric Cotton demonstrates lab techniques to Jeff Cline (Alum) and JP Rousseau (current student) during the Wine and Must Analysis class.

and sturdy minds that grapes find their purpose. Such individuals find their solitude in the madness of vines and long rows, as well as the chemistry involved in the fermentation process. These people are the grape growers and wine makers.

the program is evenly split between

teaching winery so we are relying on

As Ohio’s wine industry continues to

traditional and nontraditional students.

internships and practicum experience

grow, it becomes more important to find

It is a hybrid format program, having

right now. We are trying to partner with

those destined for a career in viticulture

online classes and in-person sessions

a few places to make sure students are

and enology. Kent State University has

several times a semester. Students are

making wine before they graduate,”

created the perfect atmosphere for it all at

expected to complete practicums and

Creasap said.

their Ashtabula campus.

internships as part of their coursework.

“We like to get them in the vineyard

Such experiences help ensure students

and winery for as much hands-on

program built for excellence in education

have been educated as well as trained in

experience as possible,” Creasap said.

and technology. Its design boasts of

the field they will be entering. Individuals

She believes it is the accessibility of the

convenience for all students types. Hands-

pursuing viticulture degrees can dig their

classes and the opportunity for networking

on experience, networking and easily

hands in the dirt right away by working

that makes the program so approachable

accessible online classes are just a few of

in the nearby research vineyard owned by

to students and those looking to make a

the benefits of the program. Furthermore, it

The Ohio State University; this research

career in the wine industry.

is a member of the Viticulture and Enology

vineyard is in North Kingsville, Ohio. Kent

Science and Technology Alliance (VESTA),

State Ashtabula students have been able

include botanical viticulture, molecular

as well as a National Science Foundation

to work with a small block of concord

principles of grape and wine, pest

National Center of Excellence.

grapes in the vineyard not currently being

management, soil for viticulture and

used for research purposes by Ohio State.

regional vineyard management. Similarly,

Ohio’s only wine degree comes from a

The program itself is still young, having only just begun in 2011. Still, it

“We cover things from winter pruning

Core classes for the viticulture degree

core classes for the enology program

has successfully attracted the attention of

through harvest, and from a crush all the

include wine microorganisms, winery

around 90 students, including some Kent

way through bottling.” Although there is

sanitation, winery equipment operation

State alumni. Jodi Creasap Gee, Ph.D.,

access to a vineyard for teaching purposes,

and sensory evaluation.

serves as head of the program, as well as the

creating a teaching winery is still in the

state coordinator for VESTA. She estimates

works for Kent State. “We don’t have a

Tonya Fields is a nontraditional student working on her post-undergraduate

heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings

5

KSUA Enology Alum Nancy Evans and current student Ron Taylor prune grapevines at the KSUA teaching vineyard at the Ashtabula Agricultural Research Station.

degree in viticulture. After earning a

What is Fields’ favorite class so far? The

degree in teaching from Bowling Green

one she took on ice wine. Ice wine is made

State University and teaching high school

when the grapes harden like marbles in the

English for four years, her love of being

cold winter air. Because they are still frozen,

outside lead her to seek a new path in life.

they have a different water content, which,

So far, that path has led her to Kent State

in turn, influences the flavor the grapes

and to a vineyard assistant position at

will produce. What Fields learned was that

Gervasi Vineyard in Canton, Ohio. “I’m not

making ice wine is labor-intensive and

even done with my program yet and I am

risky. Post-completion, she looks forward to

getting practical hands-on experience,”

working at a vineyard as a head vineyard

Fields said. As a vineyard assistant, she

manager or even in a research position at a

helps care for the vines on the five-and-

test vineyard. “I’m just wired for this, being

a-half acre vineyard, including pruning

outside with the birds, bugs, and grapes. As

beginning in March. Fields considered

long as I get to spend some time with my

adding the enology degree to her list of

hands in the dirt, I will be happy.”

accomplishments as well, but eventually

When Creasap graduated from college

decided against it, saying, “Vineyards are

in 2000, there were 65 to 75 wineries in

where it all begins.”

Ohio. Now she says there are upwards

Having been involved in the Grape

of 180 to 200. There is no doubt that the

and Wine Conference in Dublin, Ohio,

wine industry in Ohio is growing, and with

she had ability to network with others

that kind of data it appears the students

involved in the industry. At the Ohio

pursuing an Associate of Applied Science

Wine competition, she had the unique

degree in viticulture or enology have the

experience to see how wines are judged.

right idea.

In July, she headed to Columbus for the

Warm sunshine on your face, a glass of crisp white wine in hand, relaxing with best friends and family.

Fall is the perfect time to explore the variety of the Ohio grape and wine community. Rolling hills, fragrant ripening fruit, picturesque vineyards, and the hustle and bustle of the Crush. Fall is the most exciting time in Ohio Wine Country.

It is the time when IT all begins.

Visit a nearby winery, sip, savor, and take home a bottle of Ohio wine to remind you of an idyllic day.

Grapes are growing, ripening and

Ohio Wine Festival, where she gave a

being harvested all over Ohio to be

sensory evaluation presentation and

crushed in order to become the perfect

answered questions about the program

addition to your dinner. The next time you

at Kent State. “I am getting all of these

open a bottle of wine, I hope you consider

opportunities because I am a student at

the people with a passion for providing you

Kent,” Fields said.

with that very special bottle. $

6 pairings

Take Home the Experience...

Ohio Wine Producers Association 800-227-6972 www.OhioWines.org

Some

Cues

for Pool Table Restoration

R

od Stober began his working

known for its traditional furnishings, about

homes, it made sense that pool tables

career as an assistant golf pro

a dozen years ago, Stober decided that it

might be an obvious and popular addition

was time to add another piece of furniture

to the Barn’s inventory.

at the Inverness Club in Toledo,

one of the most prestigious golf clubs in the midwest. After four years of teaching

to his inventory — pool tables.

It used to be the case that you seldom

In 2003, Rod called the Connelly Billiards, which was then in Arizona but

the game and helping to run the retail part

found billiard tables or carom tables with

has since moved their operations to Texas,

of the golf business out of the Inverness

no pockets in personal residences. They

and said that he would like to carry their

pro shop, Rod decided to come home to

were mostly found in bars, private clubs or

products in his furniture store. They told

Richland County and help his parents run

pool halls — places most self-respecting

him that they had never sold pool tables

the family business, Spring Mill Furniture

young men would never want their parents

in a furniture store, to which businessman

Barn on the north edge of Mansfield.

know they visited. However, since family

Stober quickly said, “Good.” He filled out

rooms, finished basements and man

the paperwork the company sent him and

caves have become prominent in so many

a deal was struck. Both are pleased to

The Barn celebrated its 50th anniversary in business last year, and while it has been

heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings

7

report that it has been a very successful relationship for the past 11 years.

Carrying and selling new pool tables was fine, but Rod had always been a tinkerer. He soon found out from calls he was receiving that there were a lot of tables — stately, four legged pieces of furniture — in dire need of some TLC. People would call and ask Rod if he was interested in their old table. Most were hoping to find someone willing to get the 1500-pound monster out of their house as much as they hoped to make a few bucks on it.

Over the years, Rod learned a thing or two about getting large pieces of furniture in and out of houses through his delivery adventures for the family business.

Disassembling a pool table in order to fit it into a family room was not an unusual

didn’t sell, he would give the owner $400

could extract the table. Eventually, with a

happening. However, disassembling a

for the table. Well, he wound up owning it.

little planning and some expert carpentry

part of a home in order to get a table out

When he went to the house to pick it up,

work, Rod got the table out and the room

of the area in which it was located was

he found that the opening at the top of the

and staircase were as good or better than

something else.

stairway was a few inches too narrow due

they were before.

A few years ago, Stober received a call from a customer who was interested

to some remodeling that had been done after the owner purchased the table.

If you visit Spring Mill Furniture Barn, you will see an impressive display of pool and billiard tables, some new and others

in knowing if Rod would like to buy his

The owner almost went into cardiac

table. It was going to be put in among

arrest when Stober told him that he would

in various stages of restoration. Rod

some auction items, and Rod said that if it

have to remove the staircase before he

Stober isn’t interested in just any old pool table, he looks for collectibles and those that have good bones. When he does complete a restoration, it’s something that is probably of interest to buyers looking to spend a little bit more to have a special piece of furniture; in this case, a pool table.

Now, you may be saying to yourself, “This is a magazine about wine, so what’s the common thread with pool tables?”

Let me try to make the connection by suggesting that wine and pool tables are both usually enjoyed in a relaxing environment, in particular when they accompany one another in the comfortable surroundings of one’s own home. Sipping a good Cabernet or Pinot noir while waiting your turn during a game of 9-ball

Rod Stober

only enhances the enjoyment of both.

8 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings

collectibles

“Rod Stober isn’t interested in just any old pool table, he looks for and those that have good bones.”

do the work themselves, and from start to

around 1913 to the end of the depression.

from single digits to thousands, even tens

finish will have spent hundreds of hours

Back then, Brunswick was the major

of thousands of dollars. The price of the

turning a 100-year-old, worn out table

manufacturer of tables in this country.

average new pool table found at the Barn

into a masterpiece.

How big was the industry? Consider this:

The price of a bottle of wine varies

would begin at around $2,500 and go up

The best pool table is nothing more

Brunswick built their tables in Muskegon,

from there. Rod said that his average sale

than something very pleasing to the eye

Michigan in a factory that covered

for a completely outfitted table runs right

without the needed accessories, cues

1,700,000 square feet. Today, Brunswick

around $4,000.

and pool balls in particular. You’ll find a

still sells pool tables, but they don’t build

A restored table (a collectible, if

wide variety of the tools of the table at the

any of them.

you will) might run as high as $25,000.

Spring Mill Furniture Barn, too. Pool cues

Rod Stober does rebuild pool tables

In fact, one of the tables that Rod is

can also be a bit pricey. Stober said that

right here in the heart of Ohio. At Spring

currently working on will probably

not long ago, a devoted pool player from

Mill Furniture Barn he also has new tables

fall into that price range. Prospective

this area sold four cues for $23,000. But,

from Connelly, and he sells slot machines

purchasers for such a work of art are few

don’t worry, we’re not talking about the

as well. So, make just one visit to the Barn

and far between. I mentioned that Rod

sticks you’ll want for your in-home table.

and you might just be able to turn the wine

calls himself a tinkerer, but he is much

The “golden years” for pool here in

more than that. He and his son Steven

the states are generally said to be from

cellar/family room in your home into a lower level casino. $ MG

Our vineyard is nestled in fifty acres of wooded property where we offer a wide selection of award-winning wines in our tasting room, covered porch, or courtyard.

Enjoy paninis, pizza, small plates, or salads after shopping in downtown Vermilion.

LIVE MUSIC AY & EVERY FRID A SATURD Y

2008 State Road, Vermilion 440- 967-2500 PAPERMOONVINEYARDS.COM

MaΩic & C¬arm

on Lake Erie

T

here are many destination points

the winemaking business since 1880. The

need another headache. Meier’s still

on Lake Erie, especially in the

next owners were Meier’s Wine Cellars,

owned the winery and restaurant and

summer and early fall. One of

Inc., and the present owner, John Kronberg,

were extremely serious about wanting

the most popular was originally called the

acquired the facility 14 years ago. Today,

to sell both. After some back-and-forth

Catawba Island Wine Company. Today

Meier’s is still in existence, and is the oldest

negotiating, Kronberg owned both

you know it as the Mon Ami Restaurant

winery in Ohio. Mon Ami and Firelands

businesses. As John looks back, he said

and Historic Winery. The building that

(which is owned by Mon Ami) are the

if he had known what was going to be

houses Mon Ami was built in the mid-

second and third

1800s, and during the Civil War, the stone

oldest, depending

structure housed confederate prisoners in

on whom you ask.

the basement.

The winery was constructed around

Mr. Kronberg, while having a food

1872 and remains one of the largest in

service background,

the Lake Erie islands area. If we fast

went to college

forward to the year 1937 we’ll find the Mon

to become an

Ami Champagne Company, founded in

engineer. When

Sandusky, acquiring the facility.

he was approached

Mon Ami, the restaurant, was added

about buying the

in 1945, and 11 years later, both restaurant

business, he already

and winery were sold to Norman Mantey,

had several dining

who came from a family that had been in

properties and didn’t

John Kronberg Mon Ami Owner

10 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings

Left to Right: The beautiful dining room at Mon Ami, a charming reception to take place beneath the winery, and the stone exterior of the gift shop

involved to get the property where he

has changed.” Since it is located in a

bowels of the structure, which extends

wanted it, he probably wouldn’t have

popular tourist destination, 80% to 90%

nearly 40 feet down. There are rooms

agreed to the deal. As we all know,

of Mon Ami’s guests come from outside

used for special gatherings, and beyond

hindsight is 20/20.

the general Lake Erie area. Occasionally

a stone wall you’ll find huge wine storage

Despite his legitimate concerns,

you’ll spot a celebrity in the Chalet or other

kegs. You’ll see some of the special

Kronberg said that he could see the

dining areas. One such sighting was Brian

equipment which was used to produce

enormous potential of the facility. Yes, there

Wilson of The Beach Boys, who spent an

the champagne in the post-prohibition

were some mismanagement issues, but

evening at Mon Ami not too long ago.

days. And rest assured, all the confederate

Mon Ami was still showing a profit. John

There are multiple areas for dining,

prisoners who once resided in the

Kronberg had purchased it and needed

drinking and entertainment at Mon Ami.

basement area have been released to this

to get to work to fix what was wrong and

One of the most popular gathering spots

life or the next.

improve the areas that were doing well.

is their 60-seat, piano-shaped bar which

Renovation began immediately on the

is flanked by indoor and outdoor seating.

Mon Ami is a big business. In season,

structure itself, including a total replacement

There is a stage from which a wide array

March through October, it takes 200 to 250

of the electrical system. With a building as

of talent performs throughout Mon Ami’s

employees to keep the place running. In

old as is Mon Ami, the maintenance work

high season.

his earlier food service experience, John

never ends. Despite his initial misgivings,

I mentioned earlier that Mon Ami

As you should be able to surmise,

Kronberg owned and operated 12 Burger

the results have slowly but surely convinced

is much more than just a building with

Kings and several Little Caesar’s Pizza

Mon Ami’s owner that he made the right

several restaurants and a gift shop. One

stores. He told me that those businesses

decision back in the year 2000.

of the most interesting parts of my visit to

almost ran themselves. Operating Mon

the facility was a tour of what lies in the

Ami is like running a small city... or 30

There have been additions to the facility, too. The Chalet was constructed in 2005, as well as a gift shop, which is a very popular visiting place. Along with logo-imprinted clothing, there is a huge selection of Mon Ami’s wines and other local offerings. And you don’t want to pass up the imported Italian wines, which have been specially selected for Mon Ami. How busy is the wine shop? Well, in a good week in the summer, they’ll sell some 10,000 bottles of wine.

One of Mon Ami’s marketing slogans says, “We sell magic and charm.” I asked the owner to tell me what that means. John had a quick reply: “We make memories with, among other things, weddings. Our brides and grooms keep coming back to celebrate their anniversaries and to see how Mon Ami

heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings

11

Burger Kings. You’re dealing with the multiple personalities of the workforce, all with different skill levels. While he has a capable staff, Kronberg likes to stay on top of things. Given that he lives in Fort Myers, Florida and commutes to his Lake Erie-based business from Thursday through Sunday, that’s a big challenge.

The owner tries to be there for every Sunday brunch, a Mon Ami specialty at which they usually serve between 1000 and 1200 meals. It must be delicious, because people will literally drive a couple hours to pay $35 for this brunch to remember. John said that he wouldn’t have the patience to wait that long, but he’s very pleased that others do.

Mon Ami does not have lodging of its own, but there are plenty of hotel and motel rooms within minutes of this iconic landmark. Remember, it’s more than a restaurant. It’s a place where you can shop

THE

Vault

WINE BAR

for yourself in a wine and gift emporium like few others in the area. It’s also the place for a wine tasting experience as you sample the Mon Ami labels, which include Firelands, Lonz and others.

If you’re reading this in Ohio, say from Columbus north, you’re just a “one tank trip” (as the late Neil Zurcher used to call those short journeys to places of interest) from

A treasure chest of wine, craft beers and delectable foods in a unique setting.

experiencing the joys of Mon Ami. If you need more information before committing to the drive, go to www.monamiwinery.com.

Then get to Port Clinton for the magic and the charm.. $ MG

OPEN Tue–Thu 4 –11pm

| Fri 4pm –1am | Sat- 12pm-1am

29 West Main Street • Shelby, Ohio 44875 • 567-292-9081 • vaultwinebar.com

12 pairings

TRADITION ON TAP

the first ‘fire proof’ building in Mansfield.

Today it would only be considered fire

Photo by Devin Hull

retardant, but it’s an amazing structure.”

To gain access for equipment and classes in starting a small business, and

supplies, it was necessary to dig down

ometimes sitting down over a

my background in biology and chemistry

about five feet to expose an area outside

beer with someone can settle a

and fifteen years of home brewing made

the basement wall. “We had to hire a

disagreement, help find solutions to

me the perfect candidate for brewmaster.

special company to come in and cut the

nagging problems, or flesh out an idea. This

Things started falling into place, but we

opening for a door into this basement wall.

story is about how the latter came to fruition

weren’t sure about the whole thing till we

It was so thick and difficult not just any

while enjoying a cold one with friends.

found this building. I think this was only

construction company could do the job,”

the third place we looked at, but we knew

Duncan said.

S

Duncan Macfarlane, Steve Zigmund and Josh Beard have raised more than a few glasses together over the years. As

it was perfect for us,” Duncan said.

Steve Zigmund remembered walking

The Phoenix Brewing Company occupies the former Charles Schroer and

their love of craft beers grew, they began

into the basement, “The ceilings are very

Sons Mortuary. In 1857, Mansfielder

to talk about the idea of making their own.

high, something unusual in a building

Charles Schroer owned a furniture and

of this age. That was necessary to

casket-making business; the mortuary

something we talked about for years.

accommodate the five-barrel brewing

was built in 1914. Bodies were taken

Then we saw the pricing for licensing

system. All the walls are a foot thick; the

to the high-ceilinged basement for

come down. A couple of us took some

building is a hundred years old and it was

preparation, and then raised to the first

“It started out as a joke at first,

heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings

13

Interior photos by Michelle Fredmonsky-Harvey

seasonal beers and guest beers from other Ohio crafters on tap.

From the day they walked into the

The new Phoenix Brewing Company patio links to the brickyard, making it easy to walk to and from other nearby

abandoned mortuary in December of

establishments. This close proximity to

2012 until they opened their doors for

other businesses made the building even

the first time in the first week of April

more attractive to the partners.

2014, the work never stopped. Not

“We thought a brewery would be a

just the hard work necessary for the

great addition to all those different type

physical transformation of the building,

places,” Zigmund said. “The downtown

floor in the casket lift. The lift shaft now

but navigating the licensing process.

area is a really neat place in Mansfield and

accommodates plumbing and duct work

“The paperwork was unbelievable as

it’s up-and-coming. We think our business

necessary for operations; wood salvaged

we prepared for the state’s hands-on

is going to help that grow even more.”

from the casket lift itself has been

inspection as well as the federal virtual

fashioned into casket-shaped wooden

inspection. We got our license for

resurrecting tradition one batch at a time

holders used as beer samplers.

fermenting malt beverages in plenty of

at 131 North Main Street in Mansfield,

The Phoenix Brewing Company is

The naming has been challenging,

time. Our second license that allows us to

Ohio, and they’re open Thursday, Friday

but every beer produced at Phoenix gives

sell beer and wine came three hours before

and Saturday nights. Visit them on

a nod to the building’s origins. John

our grand opening,” Duncan said.

Facebook. $ DC

Doe Wheat is a light beer named for the occasional unidentified client at the mortuary. Ferryman Oatmeal Milk Stout refers to the ferryman who takes the dead to the other world; 5 Guinea Extra Special Bitter nods to the price paid to the

CPAs & Financial Advisors…

a great pairing.

ferryman for the trip. Redemption India

William Harvey, CPA

Pale Ale, Danger City Brown Ale (a shout

419.289.7007 | wharvey@whitcomb.com

out to our city’s past), and Pale Ale 419 (a reference to a dead body in our police scanner code), round out the offerings.

1020 Cleveland Ave. | Ashland, OH 44805

You can also expect to find additional

14 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings

Gentile on Your Wine

Photo courtesy of Samantha K. Images

living

“There cannot be good where there is not good drinking.”

Q: I understand you headed up Ohio State’s Creative Activities wine program for nearly 30 years. What was or is it?

A: This was a life and leisure program offered by Ohio State. At the time, I was guest lecturing for Dr. David Crean’s Horticulture 170 class called “Wine and Western Culture”. He was asked to begin their classes, but he asked if I would do it. With Dr. Peter Machamer we began a two-class program that initially had an attendance of 25 students per class. After a year, Dr. Machamer accepted a job at Pitt, so I carried on as I was learning. The class prep I did helped me qualify for the National Society of Wine Educators. The university allowed me to expand the thing to three separate classes that ran for eight weeks each. In truth, I loved it, because it made me learn more so I could better teach. The program was so well known that we could get guest winery owners, winemakers and wine personalities to come to speak to students. Next, I pursued an MFA in Creative Writing at Ohio State. My prof suggested I write a wine book for the class after a few quarters. I did, and that book, Basically Wine, is what we used for my beginning classes in the program. I have no idea how I had the energy for doing what I did.

At the time I was operating a group of wine shops, and today I still have our flagship store. It was a grand time.

F

or Roger Gentile, wine has been a lifetime passion. His parents, Eleanor and Ralph, opened The Wine Sellers, a retail wine store in Columbus, in 1954. Working there

from day one, he eventually joined the family business.

Roger didn’t just want to sell wine, he wanted to share

Q: Is older always better when it comes to wine? I’m talking about the product being consumed, not the consumer.

A: Truth be known, the majority of wines should be consumed within three years. But, for those wines with staying power, the road to greatness is all about time. The ability to age a long while commands top dollar upon release of the wine. So, older wines

his passion for wine with those who visited the family

are not always better, but a wine that can get older and improve is

business. For that matter, those who had never been to The

always more expensive.

Wine Sellers were even better receptors for Roger’s wealth of knowledge of the grape.

His personal accomplishments as an educational advocate for the wine industry are impressive. He has taught wine

Q: I read that wine consumption in the U.S. now rivals that of France. As someone who has always enjoyed and studied wine does this surprise you?

A: Although we consume a quarter of what the French do

classes to over 40,000 students, written two books on wine and

per person, the U.S. is the largest consumer as a country because

won a TV Emmy for work he did several years back on P.M.

there are more of us. Western Europe’s wine consumption is on

Magazine. In 2007, Roger became the second American ever

the decline per capita, and the Far East consumption rate is rising

to receive the John Daniels Award for wine education.

quickly. The U.S. has been on a wine explosion for the last thirty

I recently took a drive down I-71 to Roger’s wine store

years, but now we are in a craft beer and hard liquor explosion. It

in Ohio’s capital city to ask him some questions about wine

all will be in flux, but this liquor/specialty beer/energy drink thing is

tastings, wine snobs and more:

now at play in Europe, and I bet China is next.

heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings

15

Q: My impression is that Americans

Q: For those who might be creating

someone in a restaurant talk about a wine

consider wine something to enjoy on

their own wine cellar, what are the must

that is one of those high-priced common

special occasions, but in Europe wine is a

have types and labels the beginner should

wines found on so many wine lists. This

staple of meal time. Is that true?

consider?

is one of the problems with image and

A: I think you’re correct for most

A: My standard beginning cellar is

price; they are not necessarily in sync. I

people. I think not a day passes without

60% white and 40% red, with a mix from

am not going to be critical of any one label,

someone who comes into the store, points

California, Italy, Spain, France and Ohio.

but there are a great many wineries in

out an expensive bottle of wine and says,

Each year, reduce the whites by 5% and

California that make great wine, and they

“we had that at a restaurant for a (fill in

increase the reds by 5%. After three

make industrial wine. Too often, the latter

the blank) celebration and it made the

years, ask yourself which you are enjoying

are what restaurants carry, and it is wines

event.” As well, they mention they paid

more and what you’d like more of. This

such as these that someone expounds

$50 for it, and then ask for a nice $10 wine

is foolproof, economical and easy to do. If

upon that tells me they are speaking more

for tonight. Yes, having wine when out

you drink six bottles a month, buy twelve

with ego than sense.

justifies the higher prices a restaurant

a month. After three years, you will have a

charges. Special times require special

225-bottle wine cellar.

To learn more about Roger Gentile, go to www.gentiles.com and be sure to read his

Q: Finally, how can I spot a ‘wine

Wine Blog. Roger’s outlook on life can be

addition to any celebration. Just ask the

snob’ in a wine bar, and what can I do to

summed up in a statement from Benjamin

champagne makers of France.

impress him/her?

Franklin on the home page. It says:

things, and wine is seen by most as a great

Q: What qualities should a novice look for if he or she wants to truly enjoy a wine

A: I cannot say how to impress a wine snob, but it rankles me when I hear

“There cannot be good living where there is not good drinking.” $ MG

tasting event?

A: There are three things that tell one if a wine is “special”. The depth of the aroma, the abundance of the flavors it presents, and the length of time the wine’s flavor and feel stays pleasantly in

A relaxing getaway in Bellville, the heart of mid Ohio

the mouth after it is swallowed. To be sure, some may like a fruity wine or a dry wine; others may avoid highly tannic wines, while some look for them. But it all comes down to how does it smell, i.e., what is going on here, how fragrant, is it pleasant? Then, what do I taste? Is this flowers, earth, red fruit, blue fruit, cassis, berry, and on and on. Like checkers or chess, the more you do it, the better you’ll become at it. The aftertastes tell so much about the wine and its saturation, the body and acids, and the potential for a wine to age. I say to my students that a novice wine drinker can better gauge a wine’s

Open to the public for dinner Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 4 to 9pm; wine bar open til 10pm. Try our own Wishmaker Wine!

quality because there are no preconceived notions. But learning why a wine is impressive really separates the serious wine student from the occasional drinker. I love both of them.

116 Main Street | Bellville, Ohio

419.886.9463

wishmakerhouse.com

16 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings

Wine Speak Brush up on you wine vocabulary with this glossary

Oenophobia is the fear of wine.

It’s a real disorder that encompasses

of wine-related terms.

inevitable accident. If being prepared

of knowledge about wine. Here are some

suggest immediately removing the cloth

soothing (and fun) facts that might ease

(or clothing) before the stain sets into the

your distress:

fabric, then pour boiling water through the stain. If it’s a carpet stain, you can

the fear of wine, spilled wine, even

try mixing dishwashing detergent into

wine bottles. Although it may not heal

hot water, thoroughly blot first, and then

a genuine disorder, a little knowledge

apply the paste. A baking soda paste is

can be a good thing; read on for some

also an option.

soothing facts: If you dread ruining a good table

Perhaps your fear is based upon a lack

isn’t something that appeals to you, I

Almost all wine grape juice is clear.

Red wines are colored by their skins,

• One vine annually produces between four and six bottles of wine.

• It takes about 2.8 pounds of grapes for each bottle of wine.

• 2,000 pounds (one ton) of grapes will produce about 720 bottles of wine.

• One barrel of wine is equal to 20

cloth with a red wine spill, there’s help

which are included when the red wine is

cases, and that is 1,200 glasses of

to be had. There are many commercial

fermented. White wines are fermented

pure enjoyment!

wine stain removers on the market;

only from juice and that accounts for their

pick one up and keep it on hand for the

lighter color.

When it comes to wine, there is nothing to fear but fear itself… enjoy! $

The best or nothing.

for life

Now it gets interesting.

All available at

1493 Park Ave. West, Mansfield | 419.529.4000 | 800.762.8824 | mmgauto.com