Pairings A COMPANION PUBLICATION TO HEART OF OHIO MAGAZINE
FALL 2014
Setting the sun
on another great
summer
Contents FALL 2014
photograph by
Jason Joseph Photography see below
01 |
Sharing the Bounty
0 3 |
It's Only a Paper Moon
0 5 |
Degrees of Excellence
0 7 |
Some Cues for Pool Table Restoration
Hosting a Wine Tasting Party
A Private Tasting with Paper Moon Winery
Viticulture & Enology at Kent State
10 |
Magic & Charm on Lake Erie
13 |
Tradition on Tap
15 |
Gentile on Your Wine
17 |
Wine Speak
Mon Ami Restaurant & Historic Winery
Phoenix Brewing Company
Roger Gentile
Oenophobia — the fear of wine
JASON M. JOSEPH has been producing commercial,
Jason's photo's are featured in the article, "It's Only a
editorial, wedding and portrait photography for over 14
Paper Moon" in this issue of Pairings.
years. His work has been featured on Good Morning
Jason Joseph Photography is located in Dublin, Ohio.
America and the Oprah Winfrey Network, and has been
To discuss your project, call 614-315-4045, or visit on the
published in The Wall Street Journal.
web at jasonjosephphotography.net and on Facebook.
SHARING THE BOUNTY
I
by Donniella Winchell
f you attended some of Ohio’s summer wine festivals, you probably brought home a bottle
or two in the process. Now, with the heat of the summer behind us, the cooler evenings offer a perfect time to plan a wine tasting party! Here are some suggestions as you prepare your get together. To expand your collection, you could invite your guest to BYOB. In any case, it is best to select four or
clustered on its surface. If only one
SMELL THE WINE to observe the
glass style is available, tulip-shaped
“nose”. Young wines emit fresh and
glasses are generally the best choice.
fruity aromas. The bouquet of older
Spread a plain white tablecloth. A
wines is more complex. Depending
five wines of a single varietal (grape
simple background will allow tasters
on the variety and age, white wines
type) or color so comparisons will be
to evaluate color and intensity. Supply
release citrus, apricot, melon, honey
easier for the newbies in your group.
notepaper so guests can compare
or pineapple aromas. Older reds may
If you choose a flight of whites, each
notes and discuss favorites.
remind the taster of toast, coffee, tea,
bottle should be chilled for several
Pour only 2-3 ounces of wine so
tobacco, cloves or bell peppers. Wines
hours before serving. Reds should
it can be swirled to release all of the
aged in oak often acquire vanilla-like
be served at about 60 degrees (i.e.,
aromatics and no one over-imbibes.
characteristics.
cellar temperature, not actual room
During the tasting, serve simple
temperature), so put them on ice for
breads and relatively neutral cheeses
AFTER SWIRLING. The contrast and
a half hour or so. If you choose to
to clear the palate between varieties.
intensity levels are usually dramatic,
mix colors, varieties, vintage dates or sweetness levels, plan to serve whites before reds, lighter-bodied vintages
Provide some tasting tips and techniques for your guests: OBSERVE THE COLOR by
SMELL THE WINE BEFORE AND
as the aeration releases aromas. Only then should everyone TASTE THE WINE by sloshing it around in
before heavier ones; pour dry before
tilting the glass against the simple
their mouths to expose all the taste
sweet, young wines before older ones.
background. The wine should be clear
buds to the entire sample. Flavors
Glasses are important. Choose
without foreign matter. White wines
should be balanced, with the fruit, acids
plain, stemmed ones with a thin rim
range from nearly colorless to golden
and sweetness working in harmony.
or “bead”. Colored bowls, intricate
in hue. Younger wines may have a
Astringent wine is unpleasant; cloying
decorations and a thick bead detract
greenish cast; more mature wines take
syrupiness is equally offensive.
from the experience. A stem allows the
on the color of straw. Oak-aged whites
wine to be easily swirled, and keeps it
are darker than those made in stainless
a lasting, overall impression called
at an optimum temperature. If a red is
tanks. Young reds should show hints
“finish”. This rather nebulous term
too cold, the bowl can be “cupped” to
of purple and violet. As reds mature,
describes the length of time aromas
warm the wine ever so slightly.
they become cherry-like in color, and,
and flavors linger in the mind and on
If you can, taller tulip-shaped
Finally, the wine should leave
as they age, will exhibit shades of
the palate. A long finish is desirable
glasses work best for whites and large
brick. Blush or rosé wines will display
and usually connotes a better wine.
open “bowls” are recommended for
soft pink colors or pale red undertones.
reds. The various shapes of the glass
SWIRL THE WINE. Sweet wines
deliver wine to different parts of the
and more full bodied ones will cling to
mouth where the tongue has sweet,
the side, forming ‘”legs”, while lighter,
salt, tart, protein and bitter sensors
drier wines usually have no legs.
When the wine rack is empty, it’s time to plan a trip to another Ohio winery! $ For additional information: dwinchell@ohiowines.org
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings
1
From the Editor “Wine makes every meal an occasion, every table more elegant, every day more civilized.” – Andre Simon In this fall issue of Pairings, we want to introduce you to Roger Gentile, wine critic, teacher, wine seller and author. He sat down not too long ago to discuss his career, his love of wine and to share his knowledge… you are the lucky recipient of that interview. “Degrees of Excellence” is our first article from Siera Marth. I know you’ll enjoy it, and we can all look forward to more articles from this talented young woman. Mansfield’s newest brewery is now open in one of the city’s oldest buildings… read “Tradition on Tap” to learn about this new business venture in middle of the downtown. The Lake Erie wine country is well represented in this issue. We visited Mon Ami Restaurant and Winery in Port Clinton, and accepted an invitation to a wine tasting get together in that same town. Please take the time to sit back, relax and savor this fall edition of Pairings just as you do your favorite wine.
Diana L. Coon, Editor
Winee
is your business
Preserve the fruits of your labor with an insurance program designed specifically to address exposures inherent in the wine industry.
www.rfmeins.com 800.755.7363 – Ask for Nancy Them 44 Sturges Avenue | Mansfield, OH 44902
Publisher SunGraphics, Inc. Diane K. Brown, President diane@sungraphicsinc.com Editor Diana L. Coon editor@heartofohiomagazine.com Sales & Marketing Mike Greene mike@heartofohiomagazine.com Diane Brown diane@heartofohiomagazine.com Contributing Writers Diana L. Coon Mike Greene Donniella Winchell Siera Marth Graphic Designer Tom Hofacre Circulation Michelle Fredmonsky-Harvey michelle@sungraphicsinc.com Becky Herrick maildept@sungraphicsinc.com Pairings is printed and published biannually by SunGraphics, Inc.
41 Longview Ave. E., Mansfield, Ohio 44903 Copyright 2014, Heart of Ohio Magazine, LLC. ISSN 2158-8732. All rights reserved. Reproduction or use of editorial or pictorial content in any manner is prohibited without written permission. SunGraphics, Inc. and Heart of Ohio Magazine, LLC accept no responsibility for unsolicited material. While ensuring that all published information is accurate, the publisher cannot be held responsible for mistakes and/or omissions. Distributed through local retailers, advertisers and by subscription.
2 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
Nothing says “good times” like a gathering of friends around your table. That’s the kind of evening Karen and Jim Ruth created at their retreat in Port Clinton when they invited their friend, Cheryl Cawrse to conduct a private wine tasting for their group. Cheryl is President and owner of Paper Moon Winery in Vermilion, Ohio. As the group was seated, Cheryl explained this would be a clock tasting. The plates before them were arranged, beginning at twelve o’clock, with four different types of tasty items to pair with four different wines. In the center of the plate, a cookie waited to be enjoyed with the dessert wine. Between each course, a plain cracker served as a palate cleanser. The first tasting was a marinated mushroom and black olive that was paired with Lighthouse, a wine made from Cayuga grapes grown in the
It’s only a
n o o M r e Pap
Photography by Jason Joseph Photography
Lake Erie Appalachian region. Course number two, Colby cheese, was served with Silver Lining, a wine made with locally grown Riesling grapes and finished dry. Course number three, salami, was paired with Message in a Bottle. Similar to a merlot, this wine is made from Carbineer grapes imported from South America. The fourth course, paired deliciously with first jack cheese, was Paper Moon’s best-selling wine, American Harvest Blend. Cheryl poured as she explained, “When we first started the winery in 2008 we had bottled everything, but we still had several partial
a member of the board of the Ohio Wine Producers Association, I’ve heard so many stories about the losses the industry has suffered. The Ohio State University Vita Culture department is conducting research to try to get the state to declare an agricultural disaster. That would help make funding available to growers so they can begin to rebuild their vineyards. Many will never recover.” Jim and Karen Ruth created an enjoyable evening for their friends and barrels of wines left. My son suggested
times the only drink was mead. When
family, and we appreciate them for inviting
we might just mix them together to see
a couple married they were to be given
Pairings to join them.
what that would produce. I made them
enough mead to last from their wedding
You will find Paper Moon Vineyards at
wait till I got a notebook to mark down the
night to the next moon; hence the term
2008 State Route 60 in Vermilion, or visit the
exact amounts of everything we mixed
‘honeymoon’.” Paper Moon’s Honeymoon
website, papermoonvineyards.com. $ DC
because I had a suspicion we might
Mead is created from locally harvested
just end up with something good. I was
honey, fermented and then back
right!” All the guests concurred as they
sweetened to perfection.
enjoyed their sampling. Finally, that shortbread cookie with
As the conversation — and the wine — flowed, Sheryl explained the impact last
a light chocolate center was served with
winter’s crippling temperatures has had on
something unusual and delicious. As
the wine growers in Ohio. “Many wineries
Sheryl poured the sampling of Honeymoon
are facing losses of one third to one half of
Mead for each guest, she told them the
their vines. The northeast was hit worse
legend about the term. “In ancient Celtic
than the Lake Erie shores region, but, as
4 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
Degrees of
EXCELLENCE
by Siera Marth
Galileo said, “Wine is sunshine held together by water.” While it takes both sunlight and water to grow grapes destined to become wine, it is under the care of steady hands V&E Instructor Eric Cotton demonstrates lab techniques to Jeff Cline (Alum) and JP Rousseau (current student) during the Wine and Must Analysis class.
and sturdy minds that grapes find their purpose. Such individuals find their solitude in the madness of vines and long rows, as well as the chemistry involved in the fermentation process. These people are the grape growers and wine makers.
the program is evenly split between
teaching winery so we are relying on
As Ohio’s wine industry continues to
traditional and nontraditional students.
internships and practicum experience
grow, it becomes more important to find
It is a hybrid format program, having
right now. We are trying to partner with
those destined for a career in viticulture
online classes and in-person sessions
a few places to make sure students are
and enology. Kent State University has
several times a semester. Students are
making wine before they graduate,”
created the perfect atmosphere for it all at
expected to complete practicums and
Creasap said.
their Ashtabula campus.
internships as part of their coursework.
“We like to get them in the vineyard
Such experiences help ensure students
and winery for as much hands-on
program built for excellence in education
have been educated as well as trained in
experience as possible,” Creasap said.
and technology. Its design boasts of
the field they will be entering. Individuals
She believes it is the accessibility of the
convenience for all students types. Hands-
pursuing viticulture degrees can dig their
classes and the opportunity for networking
on experience, networking and easily
hands in the dirt right away by working
that makes the program so approachable
accessible online classes are just a few of
in the nearby research vineyard owned by
to students and those looking to make a
the benefits of the program. Furthermore, it
The Ohio State University; this research
career in the wine industry.
is a member of the Viticulture and Enology
vineyard is in North Kingsville, Ohio. Kent
Science and Technology Alliance (VESTA),
State Ashtabula students have been able
include botanical viticulture, molecular
as well as a National Science Foundation
to work with a small block of concord
principles of grape and wine, pest
National Center of Excellence.
grapes in the vineyard not currently being
management, soil for viticulture and
used for research purposes by Ohio State.
regional vineyard management. Similarly,
Ohio’s only wine degree comes from a
The program itself is still young, having only just begun in 2011. Still, it
“We cover things from winter pruning
Core classes for the viticulture degree
core classes for the enology program
has successfully attracted the attention of
through harvest, and from a crush all the
include wine microorganisms, winery
around 90 students, including some Kent
way through bottling.” Although there is
sanitation, winery equipment operation
State alumni. Jodi Creasap Gee, Ph.D.,
access to a vineyard for teaching purposes,
and sensory evaluation.
serves as head of the program, as well as the
creating a teaching winery is still in the
state coordinator for VESTA. She estimates
works for Kent State. “We don’t have a
Tonya Fields is a nontraditional student working on her post-undergraduate
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings
5
KSUA Enology Alum Nancy Evans and current student Ron Taylor prune grapevines at the KSUA teaching vineyard at the Ashtabula Agricultural Research Station.
degree in viticulture. After earning a
What is Fields’ favorite class so far? The
degree in teaching from Bowling Green
one she took on ice wine. Ice wine is made
State University and teaching high school
when the grapes harden like marbles in the
English for four years, her love of being
cold winter air. Because they are still frozen,
outside lead her to seek a new path in life.
they have a different water content, which,
So far, that path has led her to Kent State
in turn, influences the flavor the grapes
and to a vineyard assistant position at
will produce. What Fields learned was that
Gervasi Vineyard in Canton, Ohio. “I’m not
making ice wine is labor-intensive and
even done with my program yet and I am
risky. Post-completion, she looks forward to
getting practical hands-on experience,”
working at a vineyard as a head vineyard
Fields said. As a vineyard assistant, she
manager or even in a research position at a
helps care for the vines on the five-and-
test vineyard. “I’m just wired for this, being
a-half acre vineyard, including pruning
outside with the birds, bugs, and grapes. As
beginning in March. Fields considered
long as I get to spend some time with my
adding the enology degree to her list of
hands in the dirt, I will be happy.”
accomplishments as well, but eventually
When Creasap graduated from college
decided against it, saying, “Vineyards are
in 2000, there were 65 to 75 wineries in
where it all begins.”
Ohio. Now she says there are upwards
Having been involved in the Grape
of 180 to 200. There is no doubt that the
and Wine Conference in Dublin, Ohio,
wine industry in Ohio is growing, and with
she had ability to network with others
that kind of data it appears the students
involved in the industry. At the Ohio
pursuing an Associate of Applied Science
Wine competition, she had the unique
degree in viticulture or enology have the
experience to see how wines are judged.
right idea.
In July, she headed to Columbus for the
Warm sunshine on your face, a glass of crisp white wine in hand, relaxing with best friends and family. Fall is the perfect time to explore the variety of the Ohio grape and wine community. Rolling hills, fragrant ripening fruit, picturesque vineyards, and the hustle and bustle of the Crush. Fall is the most exciting time in Ohio Wine Country. It is the time when IT all begins. Visit a nearby winery, sip, savor, and take home a bottle of Ohio wine to remind you of an idyllic day.
Grapes are growing, ripening and
Ohio Wine Festival, where she gave a
being harvested all over Ohio to be
sensory evaluation presentation and
crushed in order to become the perfect
answered questions about the program
addition to your dinner. The next time you
at Kent State. “I am getting all of these
open a bottle of wine, I hope you consider
opportunities because I am a student at
the people with a passion for providing you
Kent,” Fields said.
with that very special bottle. $
6 pairings
Take Home the Experience...
Ohio Wine Producers Association 800-227-6972 www.OhioWines.org
Some
Cues
for Pool Table Restoration
R
od Stober began his working
known for its traditional furnishings, about
homes, it made sense that pool tables
career as an assistant golf pro
a dozen years ago, Stober decided that it
might be an obvious and popular addition
was time to add another piece of furniture
to the Barn’s inventory.
at the Inverness Club in Toledo,
one of the most prestigious golf clubs in the midwest. After four years of teaching
to his inventory — pool tables. It used to be the case that you seldom
In 2003, Rod called the Connelly Billiards, which was then in Arizona but
the game and helping to run the retail part
found billiard tables or carom tables with
has since moved their operations to Texas,
of the golf business out of the Inverness
no pockets in personal residences. They
and said that he would like to carry their
pro shop, Rod decided to come home to
were mostly found in bars, private clubs or
products in his furniture store. They told
Richland County and help his parents run
pool halls — places most self-respecting
him that they had never sold pool tables
the family business, Spring Mill Furniture
young men would never want their parents
in a furniture store, to which businessman
Barn on the north edge of Mansfield.
know they visited. However, since family
Stober quickly said, “Good.” He filled out
rooms, finished basements and man
the paperwork the company sent him and
caves have become prominent in so many
a deal was struck. Both are pleased to
The Barn celebrated its 50th anniversary in business last year, and while it has been
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings
7
report that it has been a very successful relationship for the past 11 years. Carrying and selling new pool tables was fine, but Rod had always been a tinkerer. He soon found out from calls he was receiving that there were a lot of tables — stately, four legged pieces of furniture — in dire need of some TLC. People would call and ask Rod if he was interested in their old table. Most were hoping to find someone willing to get the 1500-pound monster out of their house as much as they hoped to make a few bucks on it. Over the years, Rod learned a thing or two about getting large pieces of furniture in and out of houses through his delivery adventures for the family business. Disassembling a pool table in order to fit it into a family room was not an unusual
didn’t sell, he would give the owner $400
could extract the table. Eventually, with a
happening. However, disassembling a
for the table. Well, he wound up owning it.
little planning and some expert carpentry
part of a home in order to get a table out
When he went to the house to pick it up,
work, Rod got the table out and the room
of the area in which it was located was
he found that the opening at the top of the
and staircase were as good or better than
something else.
stairway was a few inches too narrow due
they were before.
A few years ago, Stober received a call from a customer who was interested
to some remodeling that had been done after the owner purchased the table.
If you visit Spring Mill Furniture Barn, you will see an impressive display of pool and billiard tables, some new and others
in knowing if Rod would like to buy his
The owner almost went into cardiac
table. It was going to be put in among
arrest when Stober told him that he would
in various stages of restoration. Rod
some auction items, and Rod said that if it
have to remove the staircase before he
Stober isn’t interested in just any old pool table, he looks for collectibles and those that have good bones. When he does complete a restoration, it’s something that is probably of interest to buyers looking to spend a little bit more to have a special piece of furniture; in this case, a pool table. Now, you may be saying to yourself, “This is a magazine about wine, so what’s the common thread with pool tables?” Let me try to make the connection by suggesting that wine and pool tables are both usually enjoyed in a relaxing environment, in particular when they accompany one another in the comfortable surroundings of one’s own home. Sipping a good Cabernet or Pinot noir while waiting your turn during a game of 9-ball
Rod Stober
only enhances the enjoyment of both.
8 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
collectibles
“Rod Stober isn’t interested in just any old pool table, he looks for and those that have good bones.”
do the work themselves, and from start to
around 1913 to the end of the depression.
from single digits to thousands, even tens
finish will have spent hundreds of hours
Back then, Brunswick was the major
of thousands of dollars. The price of the
turning a 100-year-old, worn out table
manufacturer of tables in this country.
average new pool table found at the Barn
into a masterpiece.
How big was the industry? Consider this:
The price of a bottle of wine varies
would begin at around $2,500 and go up
The best pool table is nothing more
Brunswick built their tables in Muskegon,
from there. Rod said that his average sale
than something very pleasing to the eye
Michigan in a factory that covered
for a completely outfitted table runs right
without the needed accessories, cues
1,700,000 square feet. Today, Brunswick
around $4,000.
and pool balls in particular. You’ll find a
still sells pool tables, but they don’t build
A restored table (a collectible, if
wide variety of the tools of the table at the
any of them.
you will) might run as high as $25,000.
Spring Mill Furniture Barn, too. Pool cues
Rod Stober does rebuild pool tables
In fact, one of the tables that Rod is
can also be a bit pricey. Stober said that
right here in the heart of Ohio. At Spring
currently working on will probably
not long ago, a devoted pool player from
Mill Furniture Barn he also has new tables
fall into that price range. Prospective
this area sold four cues for $23,000. But,
from Connelly, and he sells slot machines
purchasers for such a work of art are few
don’t worry, we’re not talking about the
as well. So, make just one visit to the Barn
and far between. I mentioned that Rod
sticks you’ll want for your in-home table.
and you might just be able to turn the wine
calls himself a tinkerer, but he is much
The “golden years” for pool here in
more than that. He and his son Steven
the states are generally said to be from
cellar/family room in your home into a lower level casino. $ MG
Our vineyard is nestled in fifty acres of wooded property where we offer a wide selection of award-winning wines in our tasting room, covered porch, or courtyard. Enjoy paninis, pizza, small plates, or salads after shopping in downtown Vermilion.
LIVE MUSIC AY & EVERY FRID A SATURD Y
2008 State Road, Vermilion 440- 967-2500 PAPERMOONVINEYARDS.COM
MaΩic & C¬arm
on Lake Erie
T
here are many destination points
the winemaking business since 1880. The
need another headache. Meier’s still
on Lake Erie, especially in the
next owners were Meier’s Wine Cellars,
owned the winery and restaurant and
summer and early fall. One of
Inc., and the present owner, John Kronberg,
were extremely serious about wanting
the most popular was originally called the
acquired the facility 14 years ago. Today,
to sell both. After some back-and-forth
Catawba Island Wine Company. Today
Meier’s is still in existence, and is the oldest
negotiating, Kronberg owned both
you know it as the Mon Ami Restaurant
winery in Ohio. Mon Ami and Firelands
businesses. As John looks back, he said
and Historic Winery. The building that
(which is owned by Mon Ami) are the
if he had known what was going to be
houses Mon Ami was built in the mid-
second and third
1800s, and during the Civil War, the stone
oldest, depending
structure housed confederate prisoners in
on whom you ask.
the basement. The winery was constructed around
Mr. Kronberg, while having a food
1872 and remains one of the largest in
service background,
the Lake Erie islands area. If we fast
went to college
forward to the year 1937 we’ll find the Mon
to become an
Ami Champagne Company, founded in
engineer. When
Sandusky, acquiring the facility.
he was approached
Mon Ami, the restaurant, was added
about buying the
in 1945, and 11 years later, both restaurant
business, he already
and winery were sold to Norman Mantey,
had several dining
who came from a family that had been in
properties and didn’t
John Kronberg Mon Ami Owner
10 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
Left to Right: The beautiful dining room at Mon Ami, a charming reception to take place beneath the winery, and the stone exterior of the gift shop
involved to get the property where he
has changed.” Since it is located in a
bowels of the structure, which extends
wanted it, he probably wouldn’t have
popular tourist destination, 80% to 90%
nearly 40 feet down. There are rooms
agreed to the deal. As we all know,
of Mon Ami’s guests come from outside
used for special gatherings, and beyond
hindsight is 20/20.
the general Lake Erie area. Occasionally
a stone wall you’ll find huge wine storage
Despite his legitimate concerns,
you’ll spot a celebrity in the Chalet or other
kegs. You’ll see some of the special
Kronberg said that he could see the
dining areas. One such sighting was Brian
equipment which was used to produce
enormous potential of the facility. Yes, there
Wilson of The Beach Boys, who spent an
the champagne in the post-prohibition
were some mismanagement issues, but
evening at Mon Ami not too long ago.
days. And rest assured, all the confederate
Mon Ami was still showing a profit. John
There are multiple areas for dining,
prisoners who once resided in the
Kronberg had purchased it and needed
drinking and entertainment at Mon Ami.
basement area have been released to this
to get to work to fix what was wrong and
One of the most popular gathering spots
life or the next.
improve the areas that were doing well.
is their 60-seat, piano-shaped bar which
Renovation began immediately on the
is flanked by indoor and outdoor seating.
Mon Ami is a big business. In season,
structure itself, including a total replacement
There is a stage from which a wide array
March through October, it takes 200 to 250
of the electrical system. With a building as
of talent performs throughout Mon Ami’s
employees to keep the place running. In
old as is Mon Ami, the maintenance work
high season.
his earlier food service experience, John
never ends. Despite his initial misgivings,
I mentioned earlier that Mon Ami
As you should be able to surmise,
Kronberg owned and operated 12 Burger
the results have slowly but surely convinced
is much more than just a building with
Kings and several Little Caesar’s Pizza
Mon Ami’s owner that he made the right
several restaurants and a gift shop. One
stores. He told me that those businesses
decision back in the year 2000.
of the most interesting parts of my visit to
almost ran themselves. Operating Mon
the facility was a tour of what lies in the
Ami is like running a small city... or 30
There have been additions to the facility, too. The Chalet was constructed in 2005, as well as a gift shop, which is a very popular visiting place. Along with logo-imprinted clothing, there is a huge selection of Mon Ami’s wines and other local offerings. And you don’t want to pass up the imported Italian wines, which have been specially selected for Mon Ami. How busy is the wine shop? Well, in a good week in the summer, they’ll sell some 10,000 bottles of wine. One of Mon Ami’s marketing slogans says, “We sell magic and charm.” I asked the owner to tell me what that means. John had a quick reply: “We make memories with, among other things, weddings. Our brides and grooms keep coming back to celebrate their anniversaries and to see how Mon Ami
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings
11
Burger Kings. You’re dealing with the multiple personalities of the workforce, all with different skill levels. While he has a capable staff, Kronberg likes to stay on top of things. Given that he lives in Fort Myers, Florida and commutes to his Lake Erie-based business from Thursday through Sunday, that’s a big challenge. The owner tries to be there for every Sunday brunch, a Mon Ami specialty at which they usually serve between 1000 and 1200 meals. It must be delicious, because people will literally drive a couple hours to pay $35 for this brunch to remember. John said that he wouldn’t have the patience to wait that long, but he’s very pleased that others do. Mon Ami does not have lodging of its own, but there are plenty of hotel and motel rooms within minutes of this iconic landmark. Remember, it’s more than a restaurant. It’s a place where you can shop
THE
Vault
WINE BAR
for yourself in a wine and gift emporium like few others in the area. It’s also the place for a wine tasting experience as you sample the Mon Ami labels, which include Firelands, Lonz and others. If you’re reading this in Ohio, say from Columbus north, you’re just a “one tank trip” (as the late Neil Zurcher used to call those short journeys to places of interest) from
A treasure chest of wine, craft beers and delectable foods in a unique setting.
experiencing the joys of Mon Ami. If you need more information before committing to the drive, go to www.monamiwinery.com. Then get to Port Clinton for the magic and the charm.. $ MG
OPEN Tue–Thu 4 –11pm
| Fri 4pm –1am | Sat- 12pm-1am
29 West Main Street • Shelby, Ohio 44875 • 567-292-9081 • vaultwinebar.com
12 pairings
TRADITION ON TAP
the first ‘fire proof’ building in Mansfield. Today it would only be considered fire
Photo by Devin Hull
retardant, but it’s an amazing structure.” To gain access for equipment and classes in starting a small business, and
supplies, it was necessary to dig down
ometimes sitting down over a
my background in biology and chemistry
about five feet to expose an area outside
beer with someone can settle a
and fifteen years of home brewing made
the basement wall. “We had to hire a
disagreement, help find solutions to
me the perfect candidate for brewmaster.
special company to come in and cut the
nagging problems, or flesh out an idea. This
Things started falling into place, but we
opening for a door into this basement wall.
story is about how the latter came to fruition
weren’t sure about the whole thing till we
It was so thick and difficult not just any
while enjoying a cold one with friends.
found this building. I think this was only
construction company could do the job,”
the third place we looked at, but we knew
Duncan said.
S
Duncan Macfarlane, Steve Zigmund and Josh Beard have raised more than a few glasses together over the years. As
it was perfect for us,” Duncan said. Steve Zigmund remembered walking
The Phoenix Brewing Company occupies the former Charles Schroer and
their love of craft beers grew, they began
into the basement, “The ceilings are very
Sons Mortuary. In 1857, Mansfielder
to talk about the idea of making their own.
high, something unusual in a building
Charles Schroer owned a furniture and
of this age. That was necessary to
casket-making business; the mortuary
something we talked about for years.
accommodate the five-barrel brewing
was built in 1914. Bodies were taken
Then we saw the pricing for licensing
system. All the walls are a foot thick; the
to the high-ceilinged basement for
come down. A couple of us took some
building is a hundred years old and it was
preparation, and then raised to the first
“It started out as a joke at first,
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings
13
Interior photos by Michelle Fredmonsky-Harvey
seasonal beers and guest beers from other Ohio crafters on tap. From the day they walked into the
The new Phoenix Brewing Company patio links to the brickyard, making it easy to walk to and from other nearby
abandoned mortuary in December of
establishments. This close proximity to
2012 until they opened their doors for
other businesses made the building even
the first time in the first week of April
more attractive to the partners.
2014, the work never stopped. Not
“We thought a brewery would be a
just the hard work necessary for the
great addition to all those different type
physical transformation of the building,
places,” Zigmund said. “The downtown
floor in the casket lift. The lift shaft now
but navigating the licensing process.
area is a really neat place in Mansfield and
accommodates plumbing and duct work
“The paperwork was unbelievable as
it’s up-and-coming. We think our business
necessary for operations; wood salvaged
we prepared for the state’s hands-on
is going to help that grow even more.”
from the casket lift itself has been
inspection as well as the federal virtual
fashioned into casket-shaped wooden
inspection. We got our license for
resurrecting tradition one batch at a time
holders used as beer samplers.
fermenting malt beverages in plenty of
at 131 North Main Street in Mansfield,
The Phoenix Brewing Company is
The naming has been challenging,
time. Our second license that allows us to
Ohio, and they’re open Thursday, Friday
but every beer produced at Phoenix gives
sell beer and wine came three hours before
and Saturday nights. Visit them on
a nod to the building’s origins. John
our grand opening,” Duncan said.
Facebook. $ DC
Doe Wheat is a light beer named for the occasional unidentified client at the mortuary. Ferryman Oatmeal Milk Stout refers to the ferryman who takes the dead to the other world; 5 Guinea Extra Special Bitter nods to the price paid to the
CPAs & Financial Advisors…
a great pairing.
ferryman for the trip. Redemption India
William Harvey, CPA
Pale Ale, Danger City Brown Ale (a shout
419.289.7007 | wharvey@whitcomb.com
out to our city’s past), and Pale Ale 419 (a reference to a dead body in our police scanner code), round out the offerings.
1020 Cleveland Ave. | Ashland, OH 44805
You can also expect to find additional
14 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
Gentile on Your Wine
Photo courtesy of Samantha K. Images
living
“There cannot be good where there is not good drinking.”
Q: I understand you headed up Ohio State’s Creative Activities wine program for nearly 30 years. What was or is it? A: This was a life and leisure program offered by Ohio State. At the time, I was guest lecturing for Dr. David Crean’s Horticulture 170 class called “Wine and Western Culture”. He was asked to begin their classes, but he asked if I would do it. With Dr. Peter Machamer we began a two-class program that initially had an attendance of 25 students per class. After a year, Dr. Machamer accepted a job at Pitt, so I carried on as I was learning. The class prep I did helped me qualify for the National Society of Wine Educators. The university allowed me to expand the thing to three separate classes that ran for eight weeks each. In truth, I loved it, because it made me learn more so I could better teach. The program was so well known that we could get guest winery owners, winemakers and wine personalities to come to speak to students. Next, I pursued an MFA in Creative Writing at Ohio State. My prof suggested I write a wine book for the class after a few quarters. I did, and that book, Basically Wine, is what we used for my beginning classes in the program. I have no idea how I had the energy for doing what I did. At the time I was operating a group of wine shops, and today I still have our flagship store. It was a grand time.
F
or Roger Gentile, wine has been a lifetime passion. His parents, Eleanor and Ralph, opened The Wine Sellers, a retail wine store in Columbus, in 1954. Working there
from day one, he eventually joined the family business. Roger didn’t just want to sell wine, he wanted to share
Q: Is older always better when it comes to wine? I’m talking about the product being consumed, not the consumer. A: Truth be known, the majority of wines should be consumed within three years. But, for those wines with staying power, the road to greatness is all about time. The ability to age a long while commands top dollar upon release of the wine. So, older wines
his passion for wine with those who visited the family
are not always better, but a wine that can get older and improve is
business. For that matter, those who had never been to The
always more expensive.
Wine Sellers were even better receptors for Roger’s wealth of knowledge of the grape. His personal accomplishments as an educational advocate for the wine industry are impressive. He has taught wine
Q: I read that wine consumption in the U.S. now rivals that of France. As someone who has always enjoyed and studied wine does this surprise you? A: Although we consume a quarter of what the French do
classes to over 40,000 students, written two books on wine and
per person, the U.S. is the largest consumer as a country because
won a TV Emmy for work he did several years back on P.M.
there are more of us. Western Europe’s wine consumption is on
Magazine. In 2007, Roger became the second American ever
the decline per capita, and the Far East consumption rate is rising
to receive the John Daniels Award for wine education.
quickly. The U.S. has been on a wine explosion for the last thirty
I recently took a drive down I-71 to Roger’s wine store
years, but now we are in a craft beer and hard liquor explosion. It
in Ohio’s capital city to ask him some questions about wine
all will be in flux, but this liquor/specialty beer/energy drink thing is
tastings, wine snobs and more:
now at play in Europe, and I bet China is next.
heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings pairings
15
Q: My impression is that Americans
Q: For those who might be creating
someone in a restaurant talk about a wine
consider wine something to enjoy on
their own wine cellar, what are the must
that is one of those high-priced common
special occasions, but in Europe wine is a
have types and labels the beginner should
wines found on so many wine lists. This
staple of meal time. Is that true?
consider?
is one of the problems with image and
A: I think you’re correct for most
A: My standard beginning cellar is
price; they are not necessarily in sync. I
people. I think not a day passes without
60% white and 40% red, with a mix from
am not going to be critical of any one label,
someone who comes into the store, points
California, Italy, Spain, France and Ohio.
but there are a great many wineries in
out an expensive bottle of wine and says,
Each year, reduce the whites by 5% and
California that make great wine, and they
“we had that at a restaurant for a (fill in
increase the reds by 5%. After three
make industrial wine. Too often, the latter
the blank) celebration and it made the
years, ask yourself which you are enjoying
are what restaurants carry, and it is wines
event.” As well, they mention they paid
more and what you’d like more of. This
such as these that someone expounds
$50 for it, and then ask for a nice $10 wine
is foolproof, economical and easy to do. If
upon that tells me they are speaking more
for tonight. Yes, having wine when out
you drink six bottles a month, buy twelve
with ego than sense.
justifies the higher prices a restaurant
a month. After three years, you will have a
charges. Special times require special
225-bottle wine cellar.
To learn more about Roger Gentile, go to www.gentiles.com and be sure to read his
Q: Finally, how can I spot a ‘wine
Wine Blog. Roger’s outlook on life can be
addition to any celebration. Just ask the
snob’ in a wine bar, and what can I do to
summed up in a statement from Benjamin
champagne makers of France.
impress him/her?
Franklin on the home page. It says:
things, and wine is seen by most as a great
Q: What qualities should a novice look for if he or she wants to truly enjoy a wine
A: I cannot say how to impress a wine snob, but it rankles me when I hear
“There cannot be good living where there is not good drinking.” $ MG
tasting event? A: There are three things that tell one if a wine is “special”. The depth of the aroma, the abundance of the flavors it presents, and the length of time the wine’s flavor and feel stays pleasantly in
A relaxing getaway in Bellville, the heart of mid Ohio
the mouth after it is swallowed. To be sure, some may like a fruity wine or a dry wine; others may avoid highly tannic wines, while some look for them. But it all comes down to how does it smell, i.e., what is going on here, how fragrant, is it pleasant? Then, what do I taste? Is this flowers, earth, red fruit, blue fruit, cassis, berry, and on and on. Like checkers or chess, the more you do it, the better you’ll become at it. The aftertastes tell so much about the wine and its saturation, the body and acids, and the potential for a wine to age. I say to my students that a novice wine drinker can better gauge a wine’s
Open to the public for dinner Thursday, Friday and Saturday from 4 to 9pm; wine bar open til 10pm. Try our own Wishmaker Wine!
quality because there are no preconceived notions. But learning why a wine is impressive really separates the serious wine student from the occasional drinker. I love both of them.
116 Main Street | Bellville, Ohio
419.886.9463
wishmakerhouse.com
16 pairings heartofohiomagazine.com/pairings
Wine Speak Brush up on you wine vocabulary with this glossary
Oenophobia is the fear of wine. It’s a real disorder that encompasses
of wine-related terms.
inevitable accident. If being prepared
of knowledge about wine. Here are some
suggest immediately removing the cloth
soothing (and fun) facts that might ease
(or clothing) before the stain sets into the
your distress:
fabric, then pour boiling water through the stain. If it’s a carpet stain, you can
the fear of wine, spilled wine, even
try mixing dishwashing detergent into
wine bottles. Although it may not heal
hot water, thoroughly blot first, and then
a genuine disorder, a little knowledge
apply the paste. A baking soda paste is
can be a good thing; read on for some
also an option.
soothing facts: If you dread ruining a good table
Perhaps your fear is based upon a lack
isn’t something that appeals to you, I
Almost all wine grape juice is clear. Red wines are colored by their skins,
• One vine annually produces between four and six bottles of wine. • It takes about 2.8 pounds of grapes for each bottle of wine. • 2,000 pounds (one ton) of grapes will produce about 720 bottles of wine. • One barrel of wine is equal to 20
cloth with a red wine spill, there’s help
which are included when the red wine is
cases, and that is 1,200 glasses of
to be had. There are many commercial
fermented. White wines are fermented
pure enjoyment!
wine stain removers on the market;
only from juice and that accounts for their
pick one up and keep it on hand for the
lighter color.
When it comes to wine, there is nothing to fear but fear itself… enjoy! $
The best or nothing.
for life
Now it gets interesting.
All available at
1493 Park Ave. West, Mansfield | 419.529.4000 | 800.762.8824 | mmgauto.com