www.hfusionmediagroup.com
Synchronise the right team at a moment’s notice anywhere in the world.
Pantone 485c
Pantone Cool Gray 9c
UNITED KINGDOM • SWITZERLAND • CANADA • CYPRUS • MALTA • DUBAI Contact +44 203 695 0020 - hq@anchoragegroup.org - www.anchoragegroup.org
FASHION FALL 2019
Made in
Italy
MADE IN AFRICAÂ
JOIN THE PRIDE
#palbracelet #protectlions @protectlions
www.protectingafricanlions.org tamara comolli fine jewelry
tamara comolli fine jewelry
12-13 Conduit Street, London
j o h nv a r v2a t o s . c o m
3
Luc ky Blue S m it h Brook ly n , N Y 2019
Missoni
Bevilacqua
Sumirago (Varese)
Venice
La Perla Bologna
Tod's
Ancona
Loro Piana
Quarona (Vercelli)
Prada Milan
Capucci Florence
Giovanni Giorgini Florence
Emilio Pucci Rome
Editorial
C D
ari Amici, H Edition vi dà il benvenuto nella nuova avventura dedicata alla Moda!
ear Friends, Welcome to another new H Edition venture, dedicated to Fashion!
Thinking back to when I was a child, there are memories of my parents’ Italian friends; refined gentlemen discussing the ‘affari quotidiani’ (daily business), animatedly gesticulating with a glass of limoncello in one hand and a cigar in the other. How they managed to achieve all this simultaneously, continuous fascination to my adolescent self. Then there were the ladies; elegant and sophisticated, dressed in the latest Made in Italy creations. I sat dreaming of my future, imagining, longing, whilst listening to the melodious notes of the language of music that resounded through the house; a language born in a country of beauty, heritage, art, and colours. The country of Leonardo da Vinci and his “simplicity is the ultimate sophistication”. Whilst deliberating on the presentation and content of this newest edition, several questions continuously surfaced: Where did fashion originate and how has it become such an important and complex part of our lives? How did every establishment develop into who and what they are today? The answers; intricate stories abaft each and every one – different and yet all with one common goal: To create something unique, something that would leave its own legacy. We are delighted to present you with their stories. The history behind magnificent companies that have not only created the most inspiring fashion collections but also, establishments whose founders pathed the roads into our wardrobes: For all not a single step along the way assumed – instead, long passages toward inconceivable achievement: “Everything will be OK in the end. And if it’s not OK, then it’s not the end”. (John Lennon) “Alla fine andrà tutto bene. Se non andrà bene, non è la fine”. (John Lennon) Hoping that you enjoy the historical stories behind Made in Italy, for the next few editions, let’s dress Italian! Much love, Florentyna
5
www.hfusionmediagroup.com
MILANO FALL 2019
Made in
Italy
CONTRIBUTORS A big thank you for your time, your effort, your knowledge, and your imagination. Damon Abram, writer at large Hailey Breitenstein, assistant editor Agnetta Bachmann, writer at large Aiden Fletcher, writer at large Elias Haberlin, writer at large Elian Marzotto, writer at large Nina MĂźller, proofreader Paolo Marchetti, Art Director Karina Valeron, H-Edition Director You are all invaluable! Alexandra della Porta Rodiani, Editor Florentyna von SchĂśneberg, Editor in Chief Roberto Pucciano, CEO H Fusion Media Group H Edition is published eight times per year and offers advertisers an exclusive audience of affluent readers. Whilst every attempt has been made to ensure that content in the magazine is accurate, we cannot accept and hereby disclaim any liability to loss or damage caused by errors resulting from negligence, accident or any other cause. All rights are reserved. No duplication of this magazine can be used without prior permission of H Edition. All information is correct at time of press. Views expressed are not necessarily those of H Edition Magazine. For editorial and advertising enquiries please email info@hfusionmediagroup.com www.heditionmagazine.com
N
CO 8
Fashion If it's a crime, we are guilty
14
Giorgini Made in Italy
20
Bevilacqua Monumental
30
Capucci Unusual
40
La Perla Mesmeric
8
N
TENTS
52
Loro Piana Nirvana
103
La Scarpa A girls best friend
62
Missoni Missonologia
111
La Borsetta Speaks louder than words
72
Prada Perambulation
119
La Cravatta Simple but significant
82
Emilio Pucci Chromatic
92
Tod's Shoepping
14
30 62
40
8
The truly fashionable
are beyond fashion (Cecil Beaton)
9
FASHION
C
lothing is an innate and idiosyncratic human trait, as all human societies wear some form or other of body covering. Where and why this originated, is not clear, but Anthropologists seem to think that in the very beginning, animal skins and vegetation were adapted as weather condition safeguarding. But then again, it could potentially have been used for completely other purposes, such as adornment, bewitchment, denomination, or even prominence. Maybe even back then, individuals believed Edith Head when she stated, “You can have anything you want in life if you dress for it”.
kilts and dresses. In China, silk production began sometime between 5,000 and 3,000 BC and the Japanese started weaving as far back as 12,000 BC. And let us not forget the Silk Road; the most important pathway for the trade of luxury textiles between the East and West; civilizations were developed – China, Egypt, Mesopotamia, Persia, the Indian subcontinent and Rome. The Roman Empire. Made in Italy. For the Western World, fashion became an integrate part of life early on – be it during the Dark Ages, the Medieval Period, the Tudor and Stuart times, the Renaissance, Georgian, Victorian, or Edwardian eras. Responsible for much progress in general, the British were once again pivotal in their role regarding the global fashion history; their colonial rule brought diverse styles to a worldwide audience.
We know for a fact that textiles first appeared in the Middle East during the late Stone Age. The Ancient Egyptians knew about various spinning techniques and used bandages for mummification,
Back then it was the royal courts that governed the fashion of the day – only the Aristocracy could allow for elaborate, en-vogue robing, often ostentatiously presenting their affluence in the form of clothing and accessories. Fashion was buoyantly used with a cultural proclivity, denoting prosperity, prominence and distinction. The British Industrial Revolution (1760 – 1840) saw the beginning of change, with machines taking over the tailoring and production of textiles that were formerly handmade. And then – invented by another Albion, Thomas Saints – in 1790, the sewing machine. What a transformation this brought with it; the entire world of fashion began to change – an evolution that would eventually allow the main-stream access to a world that was prior only available to the prosperous. By the middle of the 19th Century, fashion in the modern form began to develop properly. London had some influence, but Paris was crowned the fashion capital of the world. Whatever the Parisians donned, was cop-
10
ied throughout the world. It was the era of La Belle Epoque; exquisitely adorned evening dresses and tailored day wear; tight corsets, petticoats and lace. Embellished by hats and parasols it was a fashion that made getting dressed by oneself close to impossible, showcasing improbable tiny waists. The first fashion designer (as the term is used today), was another Brit - Charles Frederick Worth (1826-1895). Based in Paris, he founded the House of Worth which became one of the most important houses of the 19th and early 20th Centuries. He adapted 19th Century dressing to everyday life and was the first to sew his name into each garment as a label. He was also the first to use live models in order to promote his creations – thereby creating a social meeting and melting pot. According to George Walden in his 2002 history of fashion: “Charles Frederick Worth dictated fashion a century and a half before Galliano”. After the First World War, fashion changed. Corsets were ‘out’, bobs and dresses above-the-knees were ‘in’; by the mid 20’s, the flapper style had become du jour. The flappers were a generation of young women who liked to broadcast their contempt for what was then considered adequate comportment. They were audacious. They drank, they smoked, they drove cars. They disregarded all social norms.
woman who stated “in difficult times fashion is always outrageous” would become such an integral part of fashion’s evolution: Elsa Schiaparelli, Coco Chanel’s biggest rival. An Italian in Paris. Made in
It was thus only a natural development that the
It's not polite to refuse to dress for a party. It's an insult to your hostess. After all, correct dress is a part of good manners.
Elsa Schiapparelli
11
FASHION
12
Italy à la Parisienne. Schiaparelli launched her first knitwear collection in 1927; double layered stitch creations featuring surrealist trompe l’oeil images. Her designs were immediately featured in Vogue, but the business unquestionably soared with a pattern that gave the impression of a scarf wrapped around the wearers neck. In 1928 Schiaparelli added her pour le Sport collection, expanding her business to include swimwear, ski-wear, and linen dresses. She created the wrap dress in 1930 (40 years before Diane von Fürstenberg made it her trademark) followed by evening wear in 1931. Then there was the divided skirt (a precursor to shorts) which was worn by Lily de Alvarez at Wimbledon – a shock to the tennis world! In 1934 she was the first female fashion designer to be featured on the cover of the American Time magazine and the first European to receive the Neiman Marcus award in 1940. When France declared war on Germany in 1939, Elsa created a collection featuring trench brown and camouflage print taffetas. She fled to the United States during the war and even though she returned to Paris right after, the house of Schiaparelli struggled in the austerity of the post-war years – in Elsa’s eyes the world of Haute-couture had changed, and she decided to close in 1954. Coco Chanel may have said that “I don’t do fashion, I am fashion”, but Elsa, the Italian in Paris began pathing the way for Made in Italy because “dress designing, incidentally, is to me not a profession but an art”.
13
PH. ARCHIVIO GIORGINI FIRENZE
! WELCOME TO MADE IN ITALY Invitation
!
Promoting Italian Fashion
!
Date
February 12th, 1951
!
Place Villa Torrigiani 144 Via dei Serragli Florence
Promoting Italian Fashion
!
Dress Code Clothing of purely Italian inspiration
! Giovanni Battista Giorgini (1898-1971) most certainly achieved the improbable at a time when the world’s focus was solely and firmly placed on Parisian Haute Couture. He has left a legacy: Crowned the father of Made in Italy 15
WELCOME TO MADE IN ITALY
B
orn in Forte dei Marmi on August 25th, 1898, Giovanni Battista Giorgini descended from a noble family (his grandfather Carlo was a Deputy of the Kingdom of Italy. Carlo’s brother, Giovanni Battista, was a Deputy and Senator – he wrote the Act for the Unification of Italy, reading it in the Parliament of March 17th, 1861). Giovanni grew up in a cultivated, cosmopolitan environment, studied at the University of Pisa, and participated in the First World War as a volunteer in the infantry. He married in 1921 and had three children.
Start by doing what’s necessary; then do what’s possible; and suddenly you are doing the impossible.
The Giorgini’s moved to Florence in 1922, where Giovanni started his own business; GB Giorgini & Co. Import-Export, promoting his love for Tuscan art, antiques and crafts. His success encouraged him to make his first overseas trip to the United States in 1924. Shocked by the prevailing animosity toward all things Italian (including the country’s exports), he befriended the Italian House of Columbia University, the Italy America Society, and the YMCA. Here he proceeded to offer selections of high-quality Italian craftmanship in an effort to promote what he himself held so dear; all things Italian.
PH. ARCHIVIO GIORGINI FIRENZE
(Francis of Assisi)
16
17
PH. ARCHIVIO GIORGINI FIRENZE
PH. ARCHIVIO GIORGINI FIRENZE
WELCOME TO MADE IN ITALY
The financial crisis of 1929 did not leave him unscathed, forcing him to close his New York office. Returning to Florence, he was asked to open and manage the Allied Forces Gift Shop in 1945 (right after the liberation of Florence) by the U.S. Allied Force Headquarter - allowing him to restart his business and once again work with his friends, the Italian Artisans.
Proposing a series of Italian collections for the Spring-Summer 1951 season, Giorgini organized the first ever ‘Italian High Fashion Show’ on February 12th, 1951, at his private residence Villa Torrigiani in Florence: ten Italian fashion houses presented their creations to six leading American buyers from New York to San Francisco, to Montreal. The quality of the materials and their manufacture more than impressed all present – individuals who themselves upheld monumental reputations. In addition, there was the support of influential journalists who advertised the event overseas – Bettina Ballard (fashion editor at Vogue) wrote a letter addressed to Giorgini: “I had some excellent news. Everybody seems interested in Italian Fashion, alongside with Vogue. I am sure we will be doing something together in the short term”.
Even though Giovanni was first and foremost a businessman, he was also a pioneer, more than ahead of his time, with colossal vision of what the future could potentially hold. Even though Paris and fashion were synonymous, he clearly saw the potential of his Italian compatriots (Elsa Schiaparelli had already opened her atelier in Paris); tailors who wished to distance themselves from Parisian taste to create something new, something unique. And they were more than capable of offering competing products in terms of ingenuity, originality, and quality. Coupled with his in-depth knowledge of international markets and his successful ventures into product export, he took matters into his own hands.
Italian fashion became a sensation. Overnight. Giovanni Battista Giorgini had a vision. And this vision, coordinated through a single event, launched a multibillion-dollar industry.
18
Italian adjective /ɪˈtæl.jən/
Fashion
noun /ˈfӕʃən/
belonging to or relating to Italy, its people, or its language
the style and design of clothes
Italian Fashion and Made in Italy are equally synonymous with allure, appeal, beauty, charm, elegance … the list is endless. We are delighted to present you with the first few in our series on Italian Fashion history - all houses that were established before 1960. We invite you to delve into their creation and development – stories that tell us the yesterday of what we appreciate and love today. And although Giorgio Armani will feature in a subsequent edition, we are in complete agreement: “I am glad that in our days the desire to look elegant is again fashionable”.
19
RICHESSE SPRING
2017
M O N U M E N T A L
Bevilacqua Heritage: If there is anybody in the fashion world that is allowed to speak history, then the Bevilacqua family it is - with their roots going back as far as the 15th century. Roots that have been maintained and nurtured, combining historical designs and techniques with a whiff of modernity – the 18 original looms are still being used for production today. The founder’s heirs, the brothers Rodolfo (President and Head of Production) and Alberto (CEO and Head of Marketing) lead one of Italy’s oldest companies into the 21st century. 21
LATE 1400’s
THE 1800’s
"Everything should be made as simple as possible, but not simpler".
The Beginning
1499 Giacomo Bevilacqua weaver is mentioned as one of the individuals that commissioned The Capture of St. Mark in the synagogue painting by Giovanni Mansueti
(Albert Einstein)
1844 Luigi Bevilacqua is born 1875 Luigi and his associate, Giovanni Battista Gianoglio purchase a building on Fondamenta San Lazzaro in Venice to open a new weaving mill – the building has not been chosen randomly; it was the previous location of the Republic of Venice’s Silk Weaving School The 18 looms of the school are purchased Bevilacqua Luigi & G.B. Gianoglio is established 1892 The company headquarters move to Palazzo Labia in Venice, a favourable location due to its proximity to the famous Guglie bridge and the train station 1895 Gianoglio retires and the company changes its name to Luigi Bevilacqua
THE 1700’s Several documents prove that this family of weavers already practiced their trade
22
BEVILACQUA
THE 1900’s
joins the company after marrying Glenny Charlotte von Redlick (a Swedish Countess). He is the grandfather of the present owners
“Live as if you were to die tomorrow... Learn as if you were to live forever”.
1910 Bevilacqua wins a Gold Medal in Brussels 1924 The beginning of the collaboration with Maja Sjéström, a Swedisch designer who moved to Venice. Her designs, the basis of upholstery fabrics in the Stockholm City Hall, and the beginning of the company’s strong allegiance with Sweden
(Mahatma Gandhi)
1900 Luigi’s sons, Vicenzo, Antonio, and Angelo take over the business
1928 The company is awarded the Grand Prize of the City of Turin
1902 Another name change: The Commercial Guide of Venice publishes the company under their new name F.lli Bevilacqua
1929 Bevilacqua receives the Honour Award of the City of Barcelona
1908 The youngest of the Bevilacqua brothers, Cesare,
23
THE 30’s
THE 50’s
“The idea of waiting for something makes it more exciting”.
“The real voyage of discovery consists not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes”
(Andy Warhol)
1930 Launch of the beloved and still produced soprarizzo (overlay) velvets Giardinetto and Rinascimento. Theses fabrics were used as upholstery in the sumptuous Colonna Lounge of the Conte di Savoia ocean liner that was completely destroyed by bombs in 1943
(Marcel Proust)
1932 Launch of the Fenice damask (used to produce the curtains of the Apollinee Rooms of La Fenice Theatre in Venice – destroyed by fire in 1996) 1934 Mario Romano designs velvet used in the headquarters of the Ala Littoria Airline (the future Alitalia) Carl Bergsten designs the Deco soprarizzo velvet for the use in the Gothenburg City Theatre in Sweden (also used in the Getty Museum Malibu at the beginning of the next century)
1950 The incredibly valuable Colonne soprarizzo velvet (threads interwoven with real gold) is launched – a fabric that to date still covers the pillars of the Basilica della Salute in Venice
Five velvets and three damasks are shown at the 19th Venice Biennale 1938 A collaboration with the US company Scalamandré, founded by Naples born Franco Scalamandré. Materials are produced to restore various houses around North America (the Firm was also contracted to restore the White House under the Kennedy administration)
1953 Cesare Bevilacqua is named Pontificial supplier – a title he maintained under Pope Pius XII, John XXII, and Paul VI
24
BEVILACQUA
THE 90’s
• Velvet Cremlino is launched. Fabrics that can be found at the Palace in St. Petersburg and the Kremlin in Moscow – woven with 16.000 threads
TODAY
“I shall create a new world for mysel".
2012
(Frédéric Chopin)
• Bevilacqua creates a reproduction of the original fabrics found at the Palazzo Shuvalov, home to the Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg
1993 Rodolfo Bevilacqua is named president
2017
1995 His brother Alberto follows as CEO
• Collaboration with Philippe Stark at the Gran Café Quadri Restaurant in Venice; Damasco Grottesche
TURN OF
the century
2018 • 740 metres of crimson fabric are weaved for the Sala del Trono at the Royal Palace in Dresden
2000 Velvet Cremlino is launched. Fabrics that can be found at the Palace in St. Petersburg and the Kremlin in Moscow – woven with 16.000 threads
Apart from covering the walls as part of Dolce & Gabbana concept for their boutiques throughout the world, as well as their ongoing collaboration for couture, Bevilacqua fabrics can be found in many collections throughout time: Collaboration with Emilio Pucci (50’s-70’s), Pierre Balmain (60’s-70’s), Roberta di Camerino (60’s-80’s), Valentino in 2016 and Dior in 2019 just to name a few. A company with a strong history, proving time and again, that quality is the one thing that can remain throughout the years, because, and we quote John Ruskin “quality is never an accident. It is always the result of intelligent effort”. An effort which Luigi’s descendants have more than maintained and nurtured.
2012 Bevilacqua creates a reproduction of the original fabrics found at the Palazzo Shuvalov, home to the Fabergé Museum in St. Petersburg 2017 Collaboration with Philippe Stark at the Gran Café Quadri Restaurant in Venice; Damasco Grottesche 2018 740 metres of crimson fabric are weaved for the Sala del Trono at the Royal Palace in Dresden
25
VOGUE VALENTINO SPRING SUMMER
2017
VOGUE VALENTINO SPRING SUMMER
2017
RICHESSE SPRING
28
2017
ALAJMO
29
U N U S U A L
Capucci Roberto Capucci was born on December 2nd, 1930, in Rome. He attended art school and the Accademia di Belle Arti, where he studied with the artists Mazzacurati, Avenali, and Libero De Libero. He is known for his unusual, sculpted dresses in original materials, and as such, has more than enraptured the fashion world. From the beginning, Capucci was represented in shows featuring the most talented and renowned designers and he is considered one of the most important designers of the 20th century. 31
THE 50’s
1978 His first sculptural design, the Column Dress, is shown on the catwalk in Milan
The Beginning
THE 80’s
1950 Roberto Capucci launches his fashion house on Via Sistina in Florence
“Creativity involves breaking out of established patterns in order to look at things in a different way”.
1952 Capucci’s first fashion show takes place at the Sala Bianca in the Pitti Palace in Florence Later that year, his designs are presented on the catwalk in Rome The master designer creates his world-famous box line
(Edward de Bono)
THE 60’s
1980 Capucci leaves the Camera Nazionale della Moda
Parlez-Vous français à Paris?
He decides to show his collections independently and only when he is ready to do so 1983 Capucci conquers Tokyo with his fashion show
1962 His first fashion house in Paris opens at 4 Rue Cambon (Coco Chanel would later become his next-door neighbour)
1985 Followed by New York
THE 90’s
Mr. Dior praises Mr. Capucci as representing the best of Italian talent Roberto designs his double-breasted overcoat and butterfly trousers, as well as the Optical line
“Love the life you have while you create the life of your dreams”.
THE 70’s
Follow the river and you will get to the sea.
(Hal Elrod)
1990 An exhibition is held at the Palazzo Strozzi in Florence
(Indian Proverb)
1970 India becomes a strong source of inspiration for Roberto Capucci
1995 Capucci is invited to the Venice Biennale He organises a fashion show for the Chinese Government, showcasing 64 of his most iconic sculpture dresses
1971 His innovative collection inspired by the Pre-Raphaelite painters is shown in the Museum of Etruscan Art at Valle Giulia in Rome
Roberto hosts a series of lectures on creativity at Peking University
32
CAPUCCI
TODAY Under Paola’s leadership (she is also the founder of the Dino & Ernesto Santarelli Foundation in Rome), the company which was once founded by a young man who is today considered a legend – continuous on its evolutionary path. Capucci’s visions are being kept alive, but at the same time the brand’s style is being updated.
TURN OF
For Paola; “ours will be a quality prêt-à-porter with a special touch. Focus is being placed on our artistic, cultural, and artisan thinking. Because we are both a big name as well as a start-up…”.
the century 2005 The Roberto Capucci foundation is created
A big exhibition of the ‘wonder boy’ who called his work ‘a study in form’ lies on the horizon for March 2020; An homage to Roberto Capucci: “I am 82 years old, I am not a child and I am more enthusiastic now than before because before everything was easy, - now, however, I have to confront this world which is completely different from the time when I started out. Now I have more determination, more desire to get it done, more desire to work”.
2007 The Roberto Capucci Foundation and Museum headquarters move to Villa Bardini in Florence 2000-2010 Solo exhibitions are held in Tokyo, Madrid, and Basel 2010 Capucci is invited to put on a fashion show showcasing 10 new, traditional dress-inspired creations at the Daming Palace in Xi’an, Shannxi province, to celebrate its reopening 2014 Paola Santarelli, a businesswoman, philanthropist, and art patron, becomes CEO She plans a new ready-to-wear line to mark the relaunch of Capucci (tapered off slightly over the last few years) 2015 All prêt-à-porter collections are 100% Made in Italy
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
PH. MARTELLI STUDIO
M E S M E R I C
La Perla Passion & Heritage. An illustrious history spanning more than six decades, La Perla is a brand that has not only withstood the challenges of the modern world but evolved to meet the demands of their loyal clientele. Founded with innovation in mind, and passion at heart, what began as an intimate operation, has expanded into a globallyreaching presence, whilst still conveying the warmth and care of its creator.
41
THE 50's
THE 80’s
“Sensuality without love is a sin; love without sensuality is worse than a sin”.
The Beginning
1954 La Perla is founded in Bologna by Ada Masotti; a skilled corset maker that used her talent to create works of art enhancing feminine beauty. Her creations are presented in boxes lined with velvet as if they were precious jewels – La Perla – the most feminine and harmonious gem.
(José Bergamín)
1984 Launch of the first ever wide-shouldered leotard made entirely of elastic leavers lace, perfect to wear under a blazer. Underwear as outerwear is introduced; the 80’s are about working hard and flaunting what you have.
THE 60’s
"Love is the flower you’ve got to let grow".
THE 90’s
A new concept is introduced in keeping with the hippie generation; colourful collections with multicoloured floral, plaid and checked patterns alongside its more traditional white, black and nude creations.
“Look back at where you came from and let yourself feel proud about your progress".
THE 70’s
1991 La Perla opens boutiques in both Milan Via Montenapoleone and Paris, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré
(John Lennon)
(Anonymous)
"A revolution is sometimes necessary".
1997 A collaboration with photographer Marino Parisotto leads to three photographic volumes praising different La Perla styles - Senso for corsetry, Tropico for swimwear, and Swing for fitness wear.
(Thedore Roosevelt)
1971 La Perla introduces its swimwear brand, La Perla Beachwear. The 70’s trend calls for sleek and natural shapes – La Perla’s answer is the creation of lightweight, comfortable, and loose-fitting designs, including versatile silk knits and elastic new fabrics.
TURN OF
the century 2002 The La Perla prêt-à-porter collection is debuted on the Milan catwalk
1978 Pursuant to the feminist movement, Ada feels that it is time for the return to lace, silk, and transparent fabrics.
2003 Creation of the La Perla Black Label, a special line of corsetry and ‘sexy-chic’ products
42
PERLA
TODAY
PH. MARTELLI STUDIO
LA
“They say if you dream a thing more than once, it’s sure to come true” (Sleeping beauty) Since its creation, La Perla has allowed us to dream more than once. A historic brand that has managed to adapt, to innovate, and transform in the face of competition and obstacles that affect the society we live in. A global leader in the luxury fashion market that manages to meld ideas from the past with those of the present and the future. With Masotti’s assurance that there will be “no compromise on quality and innovation”, they have more than maintained their integrity, their values and their designs. “Every La Perla piece is connected by Ada’s spirit. It is like a thread between generations of women that cannot be broken”, Alessandra Bertuzzi, La Perla Creative Director 2004 50th anniversary celebration; La Perla creates a limited-edition collection made with Chantilly lace from Calais-Caudry. 2010 La Perla launches a collaboration with French couturier Jean Paul Gaultier for the exclusive Créateur collection. 2015 La Perla’s first Atelier collection is showcased during Couture Fashion Week in Paris
43
PH. NADIR
44
45
46
47
PH. MARCO EMILI
PH. MICHELANGELO DI BATTISTA
50
51
N I R V A N A
Loro Piana Originally from the small town of Trivero in northern Italy, the Loro Piana family were merchants of the wool trade. Sourcing fine wool and cashmere textiles for the ever-growing haute couture industry with enormous success, they decided – much to all our benefit – to grow their business into something more; establishing one of the world’s most notable luxury fashion brands. From then on, they have never ceased to astound us with their dedication to quality, comfort, style, and excellence. 53
THE 40’s
MID 1800’s
"Perseverance is the hard work you do after you get tired of doing the hard work you already did".
The Beginning
The Loro Piana family begins trading wool
THE 20’s
"Let’s forget the baggages of the past and make a new beginning".
(Newt Gingrich)
1941 Struggling through the piqué of the war years, Pietro’s nephew, Franco Loro Piana, takes over the company and begins a worldwide export of woollen and cashmere fabrics
(Shehbaz Sharif)
THE 50’s & 60’s
1924 Pietro Loro Piana founds Ing. Loro Piana & C., the current company, in the village of Quarona (the headquarters still remain here to date)
Necessity is the mother of invention.
(Proverb)
The firm begins to establish their reputation as a supplier of premium wool and cashmere textiles for the growing haute couture industry
54
LORO
PIANA
THE 70’s
TODAY
It’s a family thing. By this time more fashion houses than not rely on Loro Piana for the basis of their collections, and even the tailors on Savile Row offer their material collections
To be considered the ‘Holy Grail’ of cashmere is more than adequate for a company whose heritage dates back to over 2 centuries. Since the beginning, there has never been compromise as to quality, style, or comfort – striving solely for excellence. They have become the world’s largest single buyer of premium wool and cashmere, always maintaining their relentless pursuit of finding and using, only the best: “For where thy treasure is, there also will thy heart be” (Holy Bible, King James Version).
1975 Franco’s sons, Sergio and Pier Luigi, take over Loro Piana and expand the company; they begin to focus on luxury goods and developing international retail
THE 80’s
"I’ve accomplished a lot, but I still have more dreams that I want to achieve".
(Joe Jonas)
1980 The brand adds clothing to their repertoire 1985 The company begins sponsoring Italian and international horsemen
THE 90’s
"To ride on a horse is to fly without wings".
(Anonymous)
1992 Loro Piana creates the Italian Olympic horse-riding team’s jackets, called the Horsey jacket 1994 The brothers develop a brand on two levels: Loro Piana, supplier of finest textiles and Loro Piana, purveyor of premium men’s and women’s wear
55
In 1994 a consortium led by Loro Piana signed an agreement with the Andean communities, under the aegis of the Peruvian government, gaining the exclusive honour of purchasing, processing and exporting vicuña fibre, in the form of fabrics and finished products, from animals sheared live 1997 Loro Piana begins giving out prizes for the best bale of wool – the Loro Piana Record Bale - with enough material to produce 50 men’s suits 1998 Opening of the Venice and Milan boutiques 1999 The first Loro Piana boutique opens in New York
TURN OF
the century
2006 The fashion house launches a line of luxurious home furniture and accessories, Loro Piana Interiors 2008 Loro Piana begins sponsorship of the annual Loro Piana Superyacht Regatta They further distinguish themselves from others through their discovery and implementation of Baby Cashmere (harvested from the undercoat of northern Chinese and Mongolian Hircus goats) Loro Piana purchases a 2,000-acre reserve for the preservation of the Vicuña, the Dr. Franco Loro Piana Reserve in Peru 2013 Loro Piana joins the LVMH Group 2018 A total of 173 Loro Piana stores exist worldwide
56
LORO
PIANA
57
M I S S O N O L O G I A
Missoni What began as a modest and creative collaboration between a husband and wife team, Ottavio and Rosita Missoni, has evolved into a truly remarkable global feat, the cutting edge of Italian fashion. With the predominant focus placed on creative patterns, colours, and comfortable knitwear, the brand has expanded over the years to become one of the world's largest luxury brands in history which continues to influence the contemporary lifestyle of today.
63
THE 40's
Missoni wins the Moda Mare award Opening of a new factory in Sumirago
THE 70’s
The Beginning
"Who says a rainbow has seven colours? It has many shades".
1948 Venjulia tracksuits are designed for the Italian team at the London Olympic games (Ottavio himself was a finalist)
THE 50’s
(Diana Vreeland)
"It takes courage to grow up and become who you really are".
1970 Missoni’s first boutique opens in Bloomingdale’s, New York, and with the support of Vogue - the brand erupts in the US and Europe; The epitome of coolgirl 70’s fashion 1973 Missoni receives the Neiman Marcus Award for fashion
(E. E. Cummings)
1953 Ottavio (Tai) and Rosita Missoni set up their small knitwear shop in Gallarate, joining the tracksuits to a small catalogue of women’s garments
1976 Opening of Missoni’s boutique in Milan 1978 Their 25th anniversary is celebrated with a feature show at the Rotonda della Besana in Milan
1958 Their first collection is presented in Milan
THE 60’s
1979 The first menswear collection is presented
THE 80’s
"From a small seed a mighty trunk may grow".
“It’s not whether you win or lose, it’s how you play the game”.
(Aeschylus)
1965 Missoni gets its first feature in Ariana magazine, with the help of Anna Piaggi
(Grantland Rice)
Rosita meets French stylist Emmanuelle Khanh leading to a collaboration
1980 Its first-ever fragrance is released
1967 Their first runway show is held at the Pitti Palace in Florence – a sensation as the materials were transparent under the lights (they were not invited back the following year)
The Paris boutique opens 1983 Missoni Home label is launched 1984 Followed by its New York boutique
1969 The opening page of Women’s Wear Daily is dedicated to Missoni
1986
64
MISSONI
Ottavio and Rosita Missoni are awarded the Premio Italia for printed fabric by the Como Silk Association
TODAY
1988 Ottavio is honoured with the Commendatore al Merito of the Italian Republic
THE 90’s
To many people, the Missoni name stands for colourful patterns, but for the Missoni family, it stands for survival and perseverance. Their signature bold and intricate knitwear, so often described as wearable works of art, has wowed the fashion world for six decades. Still resounding through the company’s hallways, their founders’ words: “Success, no matter what, is a question of competition, perhaps with one’s self, not always with others… When we began to work with knits, we had three machines: perhaps the anarchy of the situation, the fact that we were not tied down to preconceived notions, our love of research, in other words a combination of things led to positive results. Nevertheless, I swear that our success was unexpected; more than anything it was word of mouth”. It is only fitting that the rainbow-esque nature of the brand is honoured – and never forgotten – as Tai considered “comparing colour to music: only seven notes and yet innumerable melodies have been composed with those seven notes”.
“Honour isn’t given, it’s earned".
(Anonymous)
1994 The brand is honoured with the release of Missonologia, a show telling of the brand’s history Opening of two Missoni exhibitions in Japan
1997 Rosita and Tai hand over the reins to their children; Vittorio, Luca, and Angela Missoni’s line for men and women, M Missoni, is released Opening of the brand’s first flagship store in New York
TURN OF
the century 2000 Missoni goes online – it’s first internet site is created 2002 Initially licenced out Missoni Sport is brought inhouse 2003 50 years of luxury fashion are celebrated with a retrospective showcasing more than 100 archive pieces 2011 Headlines were made when Target Stores offered low-cost variants of Missoni products 2014 Rosella Jardini is hired as a creative consultant
Cancer Research Fund, and Saks Fifth Avenue to set a fund raiser for cancer research
2017 Jennifer Lopez teams up with Missoni, Women’s
65
66
67
68
69
70
71
P E R A M B U L A T I O N
Prada When Mario Prada founded his Milanbased leather goods store known as ‘Fratelli Prada’ in 1913, his only intention was to produce luggage and steam trunks for the ever-growing travel market of the time period. Prada’s success was to prove him wrong however, as in the shortest of time periods, Prada became the Italian Royal Household supplier in 1919, and with it, the first steps toward a luxury brand were taken. Although Prada’s path toward becoming one of the world’s best-known heavyweights has not solely been a steep one – the result, however, one that surely would have astonished Mario. 73
EARLY 1900's
1984 Prada attempts a more modern approach with the release of their Pocono nylon bags - an instant hit. The logo, printed on a triangular metal badge, is inspired by grandfather Mario's trunks and their locks
The Beginning
1986 Stores opened in Paris and Madrid, followed by London and Tokyo
1913 Mario and his brother Martino open the first Prada store in Milan, selling bags, trunks, steamers, and travel accessories
1988 Prada’s first fall/winter collection debuts on the Milan catwalk
1919 The brand is elevated to become the official supplier of the Italian Royal House
THE 90’s THE 40’s & 50’s “Art is about learning and The tortoise and the hare. living with people. It’s (Aesop fable) alive". 1953 Subsequent to Mario Prada’s death, the company begins to slowly decline
(Miuccia Prada)
1993 Milano Prada Arte / Fondazione Prada project is born
1958 Mario’s daughter, Luisa, inherits the company. (Despite holding the reigns for twenty years, it is only with the arrival of Miuccia Prada that the success story truly begins)
Their second line – Miu Miu – is established (Miuccia’s nickname) 1994 Miuccia wins the CFDA International Award in New York for best designer
THE 70’s
1995 Prada receives the VH1 Music and Fashion Award (for a Prada collection) & the Neiman Marcus Award
Full steam ahead.
1978 Mario Prada’s granddaughter, Miuccia, inherits the company from Luisa. Together with her Tuscan businessman husband, Patrizio Bertelli, they begin the process of rebuilding the brand
1996 Prada receives another VH1 Music and Fashion Award (this time for a Miu Miu collection) 1997 Bertelli creates the Prada Challenge for America’s Cup 2000
1979 Prada launches its first women’s footwear collection
THE 80’s
1998 Once again, Miuccia is awarded another VH1 Music and Fashion Award (for the men's collection, Prada Uomo) as well as the Italian Leonardo Prize for Quality
Embracing the world.
1983 Store opening on Via della Spiga in Milan. Prada becomes known for their uniquely green painted walls in all its stores (a colour that later is referred to as ‘Prada Green’)
1999 Construction of the new headquarters between via Bergamo and via Fogazzaro begins
74
PRADA
TURN OF
TODAY
the century 2000 Prada launches their sunglasses and optical eyewear collection
Does the Devil indeed wear Prada? Patrizio Bertelli would probably comment with “Fashion can survive only if it has the courage to not seek widespread approval; only if it does not expect to be loved by everyone”. Even Anna Wintour overcame her initial scepticism. But no matter the case and how one would argue, Prada has undoubtedly established itself as more than a world-renowned luxury brand; because those who have want more, and those who have not, want. So “please bore someone else with your questions”.
2001 Opening of the first Prada Epicentre at the Guggenheim Museum Soho on Broadway in New York (a collaboration with OMA) 2002 Prada opens its American Headquarters on 57th Street, New York 2003 Agreements with PUIG Beauty & Fashion for fragrances and Luxottica for eyewear, are signed. Opening of the second Prada Epicentre in Tokyo 2004 Opening of the third Prada Epicentre in Beverly Hills Premiere of the Waist Down exhibition, showcasing Prada’s most outstanding examples of skirts from 1988 until present 2005 Prada newest fragrance is presented through the short film, Thunder Perfect Mind 2006 Miu Miu debuts on the Paris prêt-à-porter runway Prada launches its first male fragrance, Prada Amber Pour Homme 2007 Prada and LG collaborate to release the first entirely touch screen mobile phone 2009 Seoul hosts the Prada Transformer - a rotating building showcasing four different aspects of the brand; art, cinema, fashion, and culture 2010 Launch of the Prada Made In… collection. A collection that showcases pieces crafted from materials from all around the globe by the best artisans, featuring special labels dedicated to each country of origin
Miuccia Prada
75
78
79
80
81
C H R O M A T I C
Emilio
Pucci It began in 1914, when Emilio Pucci was born into one of Florence’s most notable noble families as the Marquis of Barsento. An avid athlete, he travelled with the Italian team to Lake Placid for the 1932 Winter Olympics, won a skiing scholarship to Reed College in 1935, and was tortured by the Germans during the second World War. A colourful figure with a colourful career. An individual with a cutting-edge vision that not only continues to reverberate today, but also more than confirms his title as ‘The Prince of Prints’.
83
THE 30’s
1959 Pucci launches a lingerie collection in Chicago and signs a contract with Formfit-Rogers mills
The Beginning
Emilio meets his future wife, Baronessa Cristina Nannini, in Rome
1935 Pucci designs the uniform for the Reed College Ski team
THE 60’s
THE 40’s
"Gee, if it fits the hanger that well, imagine what it could look like on me!”.
Let’s go retro. The original look.
(Marilyn Monroe)
1947 Pucci one-piece ski wear is photographed for the first time in Zermatt by Toni Frissell of Harper’s Bazaar magazine
1961 Emilio wins another Sports Illustrated Award
1948 Pucci’s Winter fashion is featured in a European Winter Fashion story
Marilyn Monroe becomes one of Pucci’s greatest
Emilio opens his first haute couture store in Isle of Capri’s Canzone del Mare. Initially swimwear made of stretch fabric as well as bold and brightly coloured silk patterned scarves
variety of Pucci items
fans (in fact, she was buried wearing one of his creations), and is photographed by George Barris in a
1963 The Sunday Times award in London
He was encouraged by Stanley Marcus (Neiman Marcus) to use his designs on blouses
Emilio wins a seat in the Italian Parliament representing the Florence constituency (he maintained
1949 The first boutique in Rome is opened
this seat until 1972)
THE 50’s
1965 The End of the Plain Plane – Pucci designs new uniforms for the hostesses of Braniff Airways (a collabo-
"The merit of originality is not novelty; it is sincerity”.
ration which was maintained until 1974) 1968 Barbie has versions of all Braniff uniforms
(Thomas Carlyle)
1954 Emilio receives the Neiman Marcus Award during a ceremony held in Dallas
1967
1955 Sports Illustrated Award & The Burdines Fashion Award
1968
Another Neiman Marcus Award
Pucci wins the Milan Industrial Design Award
84
EMILIO
THE 70’s
PUCCI
TODAY
Jackie, Sophia, Liz, Grace, Gloria, Gina, Audrey, and the Moon.
What started as a hit with Capri’s sophisticated clientele – prêt-àporter that was wearable and chic, with bold, vibrant prints and colours – has become a global fashion house of renommée.
1971 Pucci designs the three-bird motif for NASA’s design of the Apollo 15 mission patch 1977 The Italy-Austria Award is bestowed on Emilio
THE 80’s
Although the company continues to expand, with offices in North America, Japan, and Hong Kong, as well as a network of more than 50 boutiques worldwide, it is still the original headquarters in Florence that house the true creative heads behind the scenes: Creativity which Emilio Pucci brought our world based on: “if something has an aesthetic value and it is pleasing to watch or to wear, it may in fact have nothing to do with status symbol. You just like to wear it”.
“Knighthood Lies above Eternity; it doesn’t Live off Fame, but rather Deeds”.
(Dejan Stohanovic)
1982 Emilio Pucci is knighted in Rome 1985 He receives the Medaille de la Ville de Paris
THE 90’s
“With your Pucci shoes, and your faded blues”.
TURN OF
(Mercedes Ladies Skyhooks)
the century
1990 Shortly before his death, Emilio receives the Council of Fashion Designers of America Award
2000 LVMH group acquires 67% of the company, Laudomia however continued on as Image Director and Deputy Chairman of the Brand
1992 Upon Emilio’s death, his daughter Laudomia takes the reins and re-introduces swimwear as well as a tie collection
2008 Norwegian designer Peter Oundas is appointed Creative Director
1998 Stephan Janson is appointed new womenswear designer
85
86
87
88
89
90
91
92
S H O E P P I N G
TOD'S Tod’s roots go back to the early 1900’s, when Filippo Della Valle founded a tiny family business in the outskirts of Ancona, producing beautiful original shoes. With the input and creativity of his grandson, Diego, the family grew into an original leather goods and accessories store. However, the cultivation and expansion of the company never changed its original intent – the creation of the highest quality, hand-crafted footwear and leather accessories.
93
THE 20's
THE 60’s
The Beginning
"Don't be pushed around by the fears in your mind. Be led by the dreams in your heart".
Filippo Della Valle starts a shoemaking business out of his basement
THE 40’s & 50’s
(Roy T. Bennett)
"And suddenly you know: It’s time to start something new and trust the magic of beginnings". "Do not follow where ((Anonymous) the path may lead. Go Dorino Della Valle (Filippo’s son) takes over the company upon the founders passing instead where there is no path and leave a trail".
THE 70’s
Diego Della Valle
(John Quincy Adams)
Early 70’s The Della Valle factory produces shoes for private labels, such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman Late 70’s Diego Della Valle officially joins the company Diego Della Valle names the brand J.P. Tod’s Birth of the Gommino shoe
THE 80’s
“Turnaround or growth, it’s getting your people focused on the goal that is still the job of leadership”.
(Anne M. Mulcahy)
Tod’s launches an advertising campaign featuring John F. Kennedy
94
TOD'S
The Fay brand is established The Hogan brand is established
TODAY
THE 90’s
“I look at life as an adventure. Each new chapter brings new opportunities".
Tod’s is known for high-quality shoes, leather goods, and accessories, for craftsmanship and Italian Lifestyle - however, the innovation and advantageous aspects of the brand, such as in their funding the renovation of the Colosseum, have been nothing short of admirable. From the inventive use of rubber studs on leather shoes (the iconic Tod’s Gommino) to the strong family history of the brand, Tod’s will forever be noted as one of the most prominent Italian luxury brands in history, steering us in the direction that Dr. Seuss put into words: “You have brains in your head. You have feet in your shoes. You can steer yourself in any direction you choose. You’re on your own and know what you know. And you are the guy who’ll decide where to go”.
(Michelle M. Pillow)
The J.P. is dropped, and the brand becomes simply, Tod’s Launch of a collection of handbags, including the famous D Bag (iconically carried by Princess Diana)
TURN OF
the century Tod’s makes its debut on the electronic market of the Milan Stock Exchange
Roger Vivier joins the company Diego purchases the Tuscan football club ACF Fiorentina (recently sold to Rocco Commisso) The company collaborates with Marcolin Group to create a line of sunglasses The company funds the renovation of the Colosseum Creative director Derek Lam launches Tod’s first RTW capsule collection Derek Lam is replaced by Alessandra Facchinetti Alessandra Facchinetti steps down, with Andrea Incontri becoming the creative director of Tod’s menswear
95
96
97
98
99
100
101
WWW.GOOSETECH.COM #TECHCOUTURE
shoe noun /’shü/ shoo/
1a an outer covering for the human foot typically having a thick or stiff sole with an attached heel and an upper part of lighter material 1b a metal plate or rim for the hoof of an animal 2 something resembling a shoe in function or placement 3 shoes plural: another’s place, function or viewpoint ... place yourself into someone else’s shoes 4 a dealing box designed to hold several decks of playing cards Synonyms boot, cleat, loafer, pump, slipper, sneaker, clog, flip-flop, penny loafer
103
La Scarpa Long before fanciful and extravagant, exotically named footwear became an actual ‘object of desire’, it was a subject regarded passionately. 104
105
Woven rush Egyptian sandals from Saqqara 1000 BC-300 BC
106
B
uying a pair of shoes seems to have an adrenaline inducing effect; a new pair of shoes stimulates the area of the brain’s prefrontal cortex which is referred to as the ‘collecting spot’ - as a result, the fact of ‘collecting’ new shoes may provide the wearer with a mini-adrenaline rush. Most women describe their love for shoes in parallelism with feelings of joy, self-esteem, confidence, and self-satisfaction – ‘amour propre’; it is no wonder that shoes are ranked number one on the list of female favourite wardrobe pieces. Shoes are the easiest means of expression and the right pair can ‘make or break’ an outfit. A pair of flats will prove ‘groundedness’, pumps will tell the world that ‘we mean business’, and high-heeled leather boots demonstrate ‘toughness’. Their ‘non-plus-ultra’ however, the fact that shoes, with all their individual meaning, may be exchanged daily, on a ‘portray the mood of the day’ basis. Because unlike the newest hair colour or the addition of yet another piercing or tattoo, a shoe is not permanent. Its ‘other’ purpose; (apart from the obvious protection of feet) a means of personalisation, coupled with a disposition changing, frame of mind announcing aspect of our individuality - in a way that no other accessory can provide for.
Vintage shoes of the peasant - braided sandals
107
108
A pair of traditional, antique, Chinese Lotus Shoes, as worn by ladies with bound feet in China
The first shoes on record were created in Mesopotamia, around 1600 BC. They consisted of a soft leather which was wrapped around the foot (an historic rendition of today’s moccasin). Followed soon after by the Egyptians (ca. 1550 BC), who fashioned boat shaped versions held together with straps created out of thin woven reeds. Meanwhile in China, ‘lotus’ shoes appeared in the final century BC, created from layers of hemp in a process similar to quilting, inclusive of decorative stitching. During classical Greek and Roman times, the platform shoe was invented (even Aphrodite wore it). When the Romans invaded Spain, they established a cork shoe industry – fast forward to the Moors and their export skills – double time to 17th century Europe; ‘chopines’ (backless platform shoes and slippers) were all the rage: Cork versions worshiped by Spanish fashion connoisseurs whose hemlines moved up to show the shoe which had become a proof of the owner’s socioeconomic power. The Venetian ‘en vogue’ version on the other hand, was instead made with wooden soles, hidden beneath a wealth and finery of textiles, and considered more of an accessory.
109
From Louis XIV’s court dictating the newest fashion trends, to the Victorian era during which heels of more than three inches were considered indecent; from the flapper girls, to the rise of femininity, to the 21st century - the shoes popularity has followed the advancement of technology: Development, design, and finally comfort generated footwear, which began to be worn and viewed as less of an imperatively necessary, essential object, but rather instead, as a fundamental accessory. Today, the right pair of shoes and their mood boosting effect is unparalleled by any other product. It is a completely reasonable obsession, fuelled by an enormous selection of colours, styles, and brands. If the shoe fits, wear it - it augments personal style and oozes character. From the highest heels to the quaintest pair of flats, the right set of shoes will take you places: Take it from style icon Marilyn Monroe; “Give a girl the right shoes and she can conquer the world!”
110
handbag noun hand.bag / ‘han(d)-bag
1. suitcase 2. a bag held in the hand or hung from a shoulder strap and used for carrying small personal articles and money Synonyms carry-on, carryall, grip, holdall, portmanteau, suitcase, travelling bag, wallet
111
La Borsetta "Women have plenty of roles in which they can serve with distinction: some of us even run countries. But generally we are better at wielding the handbag than the bayonet". Margaret Thatcher 112
113
114
A
ccording to Abraham Maslow’s Hierarchy of Needs, five elemental means are required to maintain sustenance: there are the basics such as food, water, and air; moving on to the next tier you’ll find health, resources, and security; these are followed by family, friendship, and a sense of belonging; and then continued on with respect, strength, status, and freedom; and finally, there is self-actualisation. It thus seems only ‘comme il faut’, that when asked to allocate a position for handbags on this pyramid, many women pointed straight to the fourth position on the chart - self-esteem. To many people, handbags are merely an accessory; something to carry belongings in whilst going out, or maybe, on the other hand, as a stylish counterpart for an already stunning outfit. But to the majority, a handbag is so much more. Individuals long for recognition and acceptance - it’s all in the hierarchy - being valued by others (and themselves) provides self-esteem; something a beautiful handbag can help achieve.
Illustration of Maslow Pyramid Chart with Five Levels Hierarchy of Needs in Human Motivation
115
116
A handmade Venetian Reticule (a small embroidered woman’s handbag). This type of purse was used mainly from 1795 to 1820
A handbag is like a window, displaying a person’s taste and status - it can immediately be recognised for its style, brand affiliation, and sense of luxury. Whether the wearer has chosen to buy a quirky thrift store trend or a top of the line luxury specimen, a handbag (and quite honestly, its contents), reveals more about a person than at first glance. From a practical standpoint, a handbag has many functions. It hoists belongings and common necessities; wallets, keys, cosmetics. It may also contain other paraphernalia, such as work documents, phones, laptops … Expression is the key to the ever-changing fashion world and finding a style to call one’s own, an astounding esteem boost. Real or fake, a handbag is a personal statement, and one that for most, is indispensable, fun to buy, and fun to exhibit. Regardless of whether it becomes a conscious or unconscious communication of style and status, the bearer feels good about both their object of desire and themselves –it is no coincidence that handbags are second on the list of most purchased fashion accessories for women, behind shoes of course.
117
Handbags date back to the beginning of time and for as long as humans have had the need to transport items, originally pouches made of fibres transporting tools and food of the hunter-gatherer. Over time, the idea of the handbag developed, from drawstring purses in Ancient Rome to pocket liners in the 1800’s; from Reticules to luxurious fashion statements sculptured pieces all on their own. What began as something made simply out of practicality, grew into something lucrative for the heart, the soul, the mind, and of course, the entire outfit of the possessor. Open any magazine and you are likely to find page upon page dedicated to the latest handbag fashion trends - Prada, Gucci, Fendi, and Versace - the list is endless. There is nothing fortuitous here, nothing that has not been carefully staged; the appeal of the handbag is extraordinary. Styles and entire ‘looks’ are created with the intention of creating just the right piece for just the right person, sometimes even taking the name of the celebrity ‘du jour’. And this is the precise beauty of the handbag – with so many different styles, colours, shapes, sizes, and brands – every individual can find their perfect fit (or several as is so often the case). Incomparable to any other accessory, the handbag has stood the test of time; a means of confidence, expression, and power in confirmation of Earl Wilson: “Feminists say 60 percent of a country’s wealth is in the hands of women. They’re letting the men hold the other 40 percent because their handbags are full”.
118
tie noun /tai/
Clothes (also neck.tie) a long narrow piece of cloth worn around the neck with a knot in the front For fastening a piece of string or wire used for fastening or tying something Synonyms necktie, neckwear
119
La Cravatta In the world of men’s fashion accessories, there is not much to choose from to differentiate from peers 120
Paul Newman (left) and Robert Redford (right), in The Sting, 1973
121
The tie knot
1
4
2
3
5
122
6
T
here is the belt - which may have a gold buckle, silver or material covered buckle, brown, black, or blue coloured leather. It is often aided or replaced by suspenders. These again may come in a diverse selection of colours or materials. Both are every so often hidden under sweaters or jackets, their reason of being; the holding up and streamlining of trousers. Then there are cufflinks. They may be small or slightly larger, with stones, without, with designs, colourful, silver, or gold. Their purpose; holding the shirt cuffs together. And of course, there is a choice of socks – green, blue, orange, long, short, designer. Their job; to keep feet warm and comfortable. And then there is the tie. That thing which hangs around the neck, gets in the way, lands in every plate of spaghetti, gets caught anywhere and everywhere, and flies around as soon as there is even the slightest semblance of a breeze. Its purpose: unknown. And yet it is the one accessory which allows a man to make a fashion statement. Although garments that are worn around the neck for warmth (scarves) date back to the early days of weaving and spinning, tie history differs slightly. In China, it dates back as far as 221 BC when the first Emperor, Shih Huang Ti, was placed in his tomb wearing decorative neckwear – a ‘bib’ like piece of cloth which looked almost as if its purpose was precisely that; a bib. Spectators in the Royal enclosure at the Royal Ascot races. Berkshire. England
123
Oscar Wilde
124
In the West, we seem to have lagged behind a bit, as the earliest record of anything resembling a tie dates back to the 1600’s and the 30 Year War, when Croatian mercenaries coming to the aid of France’s King Louis XIII wore neck adornments; pieces of cloth tied to the top of their uniforms. It is said that Louis XIII was so enamoured with this fashion statement that he adopted it as a compulsory clothing accessory for all Royal gatherings thereafter. In honour of the Croatian trend setters, he named it ‘La Cravate’, a term that is still used by the French today. The boy King Louis XIV also began wearing lace cravats around 1646 (aged 7), thus starting a European Fashion craze amongst the nobility. At that time, Cravates were purely embellishing pieces of textile, made from the finest, rarest, and ornamented fabrics. In fact, they more resembled the bow tie as we know it today, rather than an actual necktie. In the England of the 1850’s, carriage drivers began wearing similar neck adornments, tied in four-inhand knots (the same manner by which they tied their reins) and in the 1880’s, Oxford University rowing club was the first to incorporate a school tie in their uniform; hat ribbons which were used to form a tie around the neck. At the beginning of the British 19th century, the Ascot Tie became fashionable; a type of neckwear that may be considered an inter-crossing between the modern tie and a silk scarf, differing by both ends having the same width. They are loose versions of neck adornments held together by an enriching pin, this construction named after The Royal Ascot; a horseracing event during which men were required to wear this type of tie in combination with a tailcoat jacket (although rarely worn today, they can still be spotted at extremely formal functions). Flying across the pond in the 20’s, we reach the most important decade for the tie development, the origin of the neckwear as worn today. Jesse Langsdorf, a New York tie maker, invented a different mode of fabric cut, allowing the tie to retain its original shape even after being worn. This brainchild became the prevailing choice for men, setting off a trend in the creation of new tie knots, and bow ties now being reserved for formal and black-tie functions. Meanwhile in Britain, the repp tie (most probably originating from using repetitive patterns) and the regimental ties emerged. In the 30’s, neckties became ampler and the Duke of Windsor invented the Windsor Knot. By the end of World War II, ties became daring with bold patterns – one retailer, the Grover Chain Shirt Shop, even featured naked women on ties
125
(brought up on immorality charges in Montreal, they pleaded guilty). 50’s ties were slightly boring; thin and plain. And then in 1967, Bonnie & Clyde; a young Warren Beatty wearing a white tie on a black shirt – hipster du jour. We must also not forget the unfathomably cool Elvis Presley; 1970, another new trend. Goodbye plain black tie, hello kipper (an extremely wide tie with garish colours and gaudy patterns).
large shoulder pad furore, years not known for their ingenuity). There was Ronald Reagan and his permanent Windsor knot, the tie in the form of a fish (produced by Ralph Marlin), the ultra-wide kipper and the skinny leather tie. In the 90’s, the style Faux Pas of the prior decade left behind, ties with floral and paisley patterns (the 90’s craze) became fashionable. Turning the page on the century, although no longer ‘de rigeur’ in most offices, today we have a huge variety; cuts, widths, fabrics ... polka dots, stripes, solids … you name it, you got it.
Staying in America, we find the Bolo Tie – braided pieces of leather bound together by a decorative clasp. Worn by Arizona Cowboys, they are accorded to a Mr. Victor Cedarstaff, who, tired of always losing his hat whilst riding, removed the silver band that adorned it and tied it around his neck. The Bolo, also known as Bola, String, Gaucho, Mono Loop, Emblem Lariat, amongst a dozen or so more, was named the official state tie of Arizona. The 80’s were years of indecision (apart from the
So, what is it with the tie story? Do we agree with Oscar Wilde that a “well-tied tie is the first serious step”? Or do we prefer the George Clooney, dark, tieless look? But then again, maybe its Pierce Brosnan’s personification of 007 that we should find purpose in: “When people don’t believe in you, you have to believe in yourself ”.
Katharine Hepburn and Spencer Tracy in State of the Union, 1948. Above, Giovanni Agnelli with his wife Marella Caracciolo
126
Via della Pergola, 53 50121 Firenze info@ilvillino.it • +39 055 200 1116 www.ilvillino.it
Life is a combination of magic and pasta. Federico Fellini
MADE IN AFRICAÂ
JOIN THE PRIDE
#palbracelet #protectlions @protectlions
www.protectingafricanlions.org tamara comolli fine jewelry
www.hfusionmediagroup.com
Synchronise the right team at a moment’s notice anywhere in the world.
Pantone 485c
Pantone Cool Gray 9c
UNITED KINGDOM • SWITZERLAND • CANADA • CYPRUS • MALTA • DUBAI Contact +44 203 695 0020 - hq@anchoragegroup.org - www.anchoragegroup.org
MILANO FALL 2019
Made in
Italy