H Edition Milano - Winter 2018 by H Fusion Media Group Limited

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h edi t ion Gioia Carozzi

H Edition Milano was born on onE of tHE HottEst suMMEr aftErnoons in latE July; tHE braincHild of two crazy pEoplE, drEaMing tHE saME crazy drEaM: publisHing a nEw MagazinE tHat would bEcoME tHE global aMbassador of italian lifEstylE. “arE you nutty EnougH to accEpt?”, My publisHEr robErto pucciano askEd ME. “arE you potty EnougH to go tHrougH witH it?”, i rEpliEd. i still blaME it all on tHat End of July HEat, but yEs, wE wErE - and still arE- crazy EnougH. tHE rEsult of our insanity is tHE first issuE of tHis quartErly, tHat you ladiEs and gEntlEMEn, dEar bon vivEurs froM around tHE globE, arE now Holding in your Hands. Take all The Time you need To read Through h ediTion milano. discover whaT iTalian heriTage, fashion and arT, hisTory, design, poliTics and hospiTaliTy are all abouT in This moonsTruck counTry called iTaly. bEforE you start turning tHEsE pagEs HowEvEr, allow us to tHank tHE Many pEoplE wHo HElpEd bring H Edition Milano to lifE, bEcausE a MagazinE is not a onE-Man

Milano

band. it is an orcHEstra tHat plays bEautifully tHanks to EvEry singlE instruMEnt. tHE writErs and contributors. our aMazing and patiEnt art dirEctor. our proof-rEadEr and “saviour”. tHE Many advErtisErs wHo sHarEd our Mad drEaMs. as wEll as all tHosE pEoplE wHo livEd at tHE “backstagE” of tHis issuE; tHE sEcrEtariEs, tHE consultants, tHE MarkEting dEpartMEnt… There are Two people however, we will forever be graTeful To: tHE king aMongst pHotograpHErs rino barillari, wHo not only gavE us tHE covEr witH valEntino garavani and sofia lorEn, but also rEMindEd us tHat tHErE is no ligHt witHout darknEss, no bEauty witHout Horror, no MagazinE witHout bravEry. tHE otHEr bEing anotHEr king of pHotograpHy, andrEa varani. tHank you, dEar friEnd, for bEing Mad EnougH to do an incrEdiblE fasHion sHoot witH us undEr tHE pouring rain (nExt onE, and tHat’s a proMisE, will bE undEr tHE tropical sun...). sEE you all in tHrEE MontHs’ tiME for tHE sEcond issuE; 21ist of MarcH, Just in tiME for tHE spring Equinox. 2018 winter solstice 9

FOTO: KATHRIN GRALLA, DER ROTE DRACHE

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Contents

heart to heart

hors ligne

homo vitruviano

homage

pp24-37

pp38-45

pp46-49

pp50-55

hospitality

hardiesse

high-end

harmony

pp56-67

pp68-71

pp72-83

pp84-87

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Contents

happening

high quality

happiness

heritage

pp88-97

pp98-101

pp102-107

pp108-117

history

handmade

hot-politics

haut de gamme

pp118-121

pp122-125

pp126-127

pp128

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h edi t ion Milano

Contributors and writers Fulvio Aniello (consultant), Rino Barillari (photography), Giorgia Chiampan (lifestyle and beauty), Gioia Carozzi (editor in chief at large), Giuseppe Ceccarelli (fashion), Emanuela Dell’Atti (beauty), Clementine Fitzgerald (celebritries), Claudio Gallone (lifestyle), Fabiana Giacomotti (lifestyle and fashion), Richard Hughes (watches and jewels), Iwana Krause (art and culture), Caterina de Iorgi (travel and food), Alexa Lewis (fashion assistant), Cristina Manfredi (travel and food), Bartholomew Merriweather (travel), Nina Miller (proofreading), Minerva Pellegrini (art director), Gianluca Pezzi (automotive), Roberto Pucciano (Ceo of Anchorage Group and contributing geopolitics editor), Kate Rappsilber (sports), Richard Reynolds (translations), Guido Rizzuto (photography), Anna Rossi (translations), Maurizio Ruggiero (strategic consultant), Luca Steinmann (news and politics), Andrea Varani (photography) Printed by Millenium Trade Srl. Registered office: Corso Buenos Aires 37, 20124 Milano Italy

H Edition Milano Magazine is published quaterly and offers advertisers an exclusive audience of affluent readers. Whilst every attempt has been made to ensure that content in the magazine is accurate we connot accept and hereby disclaim any liability to loss or damage caused by errors resulting from negligence, accident or any other cause. All rights are reserved. No duplication of this magazine can be used without prior permission from H Edition Milano Magazine. All information is correct at time of press. Views expressed are not necessarily those of H Edition Milano Magazine. For editorial and advertising enquiries please email info@hfusionmediagroup.com www.heditionmagazine.com

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Special

Contributors Giuseppe Ceccarelli Journalist and writer specializing in fashion and costume. He began his career working for modaonline.it and CNN Style. Giuseppe then entered fashion publishing at L’Uomo Vogue. In 2011 he began freelancing for other major men’s magazines around the world. He is also the author of two books: Eleganza al maschile (2016), and New Dress Code (2018), both published by Whitestar. Fabiana Giacomotti Journalist, author, curator. Writer for the cultural section of the Italian daily Il Foglio, she’s also scientific director of the Master in Fashion Science at the University “La Sapienza” in Rome. During her career, Fabiana served as Editor in chief of several dailes and weeklies, both on economic and fashion subjects. She curated important exhibits for the Museo Mocenigo (Venice), Palazzo Madama (Turin), Museo Morando (Milan). She is also author for Rizzoli and Cambridge Scholars Publishing among others. Cristina Manfredi Journalist, cat-lover, mad about tango and running. She is an Italian free spirit based in Milano always ready to jump on a plane to discover other cultures and learn something new. Cristina has been writing about fashion, sports, art and culture in Italian and International newspapers and magazines since 2004. Luca Steinmann A Swiss-Italian journalist and political analyst. Born in Milan in 1989, he studied in Italy, Germany and Switzerland graduating in International Relations from the University of Milan. Luca worked for the Federal Department of Foreign Affairs of Switzerland. Currently he writes for different English, German and Italian-speaking media. Luca also works as a researcher for the University of Calabria (Italy) and advises different parties and stakeholders all over the world. Andrea Varani One of the best Italian fashion photographers, Andrea has always worked for top magazines in the world. From the International editions of Vogue to Harper’s Bazaar, his pictures have been appreciated and loved for their romantic and yet contemporary vision. Top agencies assigned him prestigious advertising campaigns, including those for American Express, Audi, Bulgari, Ballantyne’s, Campari, Cantieri Benetti, Ermenegildo Zegna, Laura Biagiotti, Louis Ferraud, Mercedes Benz, Vodafone, Wella, and Panasonic. He currently commutes between Tuscany and Mexico.

EMILIOPUCCI.COM

K The

The most famous paparazzi in the world; Rino Barillari. He speaks to H Edition Milano about his adventurous career: from the beauty of the celebrites he photographed during La Dolce Vita; to the horror of the Mafia attacks and the years of the unrest. And he admits: to take a good picture you have to pretend to be stupid

ing of Paparazzi

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by Gioia Carozzi

English actor Peter Sellers photographed by Rino Barillari in the 60â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, on the famous Via Condotti in Rome.

STRollinG THRouGH THe STReeTS of Rome with graphers (known as “scattini”), to keep people away from the Rino Barillari is just like walking next to a rhinoceros, that is tourists that wanted to have their picture taken by them. “i casually promenading by your side, all-the-while pretending earned my first money shooting a half-naked young woman that everything is perfectly normal. everybody stares. Small in the middle of the fontana di Trevi, posing on an inflatascreams of joy can be heard. Traffic stops. Smartphones go de- ble dinghy. She gave me 30 dollars and i was overjoyed; i lirious and everyone wishes to take a selfie with him. “How had never seen so much money. i immediately invested it in a ironic, i never thought that i would become the victim of the second-hand Comet Bencini camera, that i bought at the Porta Paparazzi…”, says Rino-Rhinoceros with no trace of compla- Portese market”. cency whatsoever and only accompanied by his usual mocking The young Barillari however, was not one destined to take touattitude and sense of detachment. Who however is Rino Baril- rists’ photos. luck was to be on his side, because the era of La lari? Quite simply, the King of the Paparazzi; that Dolce Vita in Rome was in full bloom. “Ah, la is how the great film director Federico Fellini Dolce Vita: the sweet life”, sighs Rino, “in the On the left, German (winner of four oscars) crowned him and this is 60’s, everyone was fascinated by these celebrities super model what everybody has called this world-renowned that walked around looking like a million dollars. Claudia Schiffer (in an photographer ever since. not bad for a young boy The international jet-set had declared Rome to be unusual sexy pose), who at age 14 ran away from his hometown in the centre of the world”. Keeping a low profishot by Rino Barillari Calabria with not a penny in his pocket wearing le, Rino began watching and stealing the modus in Via Veneto, Rome. his father’s old, torn coat coupled with a pair of operandi of some of the most famous paparazzi’s broken but shiny, second-hand shoes. “i didn’t of the day: Tazio Secchiaroli, Marcello Geppetknow what i was going to do. All i knew, was that i was de- ti (“A great person and an even better photographer. The first stined for something bigger. i grew up in a very poor family. i one to lend me money and to let me use his cameras. A brother would sneak into a bar close to home to watch television: i was and a generous soul.”), Ivan Kroscenko, Paolo Pavia, Antofascinated by those beautiful actors with their perfect clothes nio Tridici… Rino quickly realized that the ”gossip-worthy” and impeccable hairdos. What i saw on that little black and couples of the moment, were the ones that were also the most white screen made me dream. I’m one of the lucky ones, be- in demand with the national as well as international newspapers cause my dreams came true”. and magazines. Sofia Loren and Carlo Ponti. Walter Chiari Rino’s adventurous life began in Rome, the eternal City, in and Ava Gardner. Richard Burton and Liz Taylor. Catheri1959. His first job was at the Trevi fountain, helping photo- ne Deneuve and Roger Vadim. Brigitte Bardot and Gunther 2018 winter solstice 27

Sachs. not to forget Queen Elizabeth, the Beatles, Peter Sel- is telling the truth when he admits to having lived a billionailers, Alfred Hitchcock and Audrey Hepburn. “As you stated, re’s life, without any money. “All these celebrities i was taking i suppose part of my career was built on luck. But do you want pictures of, were living on champagne and eating caviar. They to know the truth? i was lucky because i behaved like an idiot. would invite me to dinner and i would make up some excuse, Acting in this way, these celebrities were never scared of me. because i had no idea how to hold a knife and fork nor which The biggest trick of the trade, as i tell young photographers that glass to drink from, so i preferred going to bed without eating. want to do my job, is that in order to take an intelligent pictu- When Tony Curtis realized the reason i was not going to the re you have to pretend to be stupid. in addition, dinners, he taught me table manners”. they of course had better learn, that the best light With the biggest celebrities of the world however, Three famous couples in which to take a celebrity shot is at 6pm…”, Rino had what could be called a bipolar attitude. “framed” by Barillari says Rino smiling whilst looking through the if on the one hand he was partying with them, on in Rome in the 60’s. pages of his new book Rino Barillari, the King the other he knew, he had to make a living out of Above, Ursula Andress of Paparazzi, a publication on the artist’s prolithe powers that be them. The second chapter of his with Italian playboy Fabio Testi. fic career that has just been edited by Edizioni career thus began, when he realized that he neeOn the opposite page, Sabinae and Luce Cinecittà. “for example, do ded special and compromising shots, revelations on top, Catherine you see this picture that i took of Robert Kenneof the same ViPs he was going to dinner with but Deneuve and Roger dy walking together with Rudolf Nureyev down ones, in which he caught them with secret lovers Vadim, in Via Condotti. the Via Condotti? Do you see how embarrassed or framed them through his camera in other deliBelow, Sofia Loren with husband Carlo Ponti. they are to have been caught together? And yet, cate situations. one of his more famous scoops is see how they are laughing? Well, let me tell you: that of Peter O’Toole, caught with Barbara Stei was only able to take this picture because i was ele at the time when o’Toole was married to anobehaving like an idiot. Anyone else would have been stopped ther woman. The actor hence smashed the camera on Barillari’s by their bodyguards”. head, who was subsequently taken to hospital where he had to The thing about Rino is, that one always believes that he is tel- have stitches in his forehead and ear. “i remember that beating, ling the truth even if, his truth has been “diluted” by the passing it was the first of many. i had to undergo medical treatment a of time. This probably has a lot do with the fact that he is not total of 163 times in my career. But you see, i believe that what ashamed to disclose just how hard it was for him to become made the difference is the fact that i never compromised with the “King of Paparazzi”. Additionally, one is also aware that he any of the celebrities. other colleagues did and still do, but i call 28

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Italian socialite Marina Lante della Rover, with a girlfriend. On the opposite page, Irina Demick casually sitting with chauffeur and cheetah.

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“i suppose that part of my career was built on luck. but i was lucky because i behaved like an idiot. acting in this way, celbrities were never scared of me”

that cheating. if a picture is of a stolen moment then i can trust ted the student demonstrations with a killer instinct that would it, if it isn’t then in my opinion it is a failure. my philosophy once again, make him stand out from the rest of his colleagues. has always been: first you shoot then you ask for permission. “it wasn’t a question of which side was right and which was And if they didn’t end up giving me their permission, this was wrong”, says Barillari, “Both sides saw me as the enemy, and tough luck for them because i already had the picture i wanted. this was the precise time i changed my motto to: war is war”. At that point, it was purely a question of how fast i could run Developing on from taking celebrity pictures to photos of the away from them and arrive straight at the magazine that was unrest, marked a change in Rino’s career that would some years going into print”, says Barillari who, nevertheless admits to one later, take him on to documenting the kidnapping of Paul Getty exception, the one with the italian actor Marcello Mastroian- Jr in 1973 (Barillari brought to his newspaper photos of Getty ni. “With him it was different. i can’t say we were friends, but still alive but with his ear cut off). Barillari also documented the we were very close. marcello was also one of the violent death of film director and writer Pier Paocelebrities i made the most money out of because lo Pasolini, the attack by Ali Ağca on Pope John The strange couple: every magazine and newspaper wanted comproPaul II as well as the assault at fiumicino airport Robert Kennedy mising pictures of him. ‘Come on Rino, let me in Rome, on the Pan Am airplane by Palestinian and Rudolf Nureyev live today’, he would call out from the window terrorists. Barillari took the devasting pictures of taking a walk on of his house in Rome, begging me. Sometimes i the Anni di Piombo (Years of lead - the years Via Condotti, in Rome, in the 1960s. would, sometimes i wouldn’t, because even if it that threw the italy of the 1970s into one of the was true that he wanted to be left alone it was also darkest of its history), with armed organizations just as true, that i needed to make a living”. such as the Brigate Rosse (the Red Brigades), la Dolce Vita was a magical time for Rome, however from the NAR (Revolutionary Armoured units), the New Order 1968 onwards, that world changed forever and so did Rino and the Front Line, shaking the italian democracy down to Barillari’s. “The Seventies and the Contestazione marked its very core. once again Rino was in the frontline during the the end of a beautiful era forever”, sighs Barillari. The Dol- mafia-attacks of the 90s, photographing the attack against judce Vita turned into la Contestazione (unrest), and magazines ges Giovanni Falcone and Paolo Borsellino, who were blown were no longer interested in publishing pictures of celebrities, up together with their escorts. “Have i ever been scared? one they wanted photographers to document the street protests in- must feel afraid when one is not telling the truth. i have always stead; the proliferations of non-parliamentary organizations to told the truth. i was never bribed and i was above politics. i the right and left of the political spectrum. Barillari documen- am a testimonial to the truth. Just as with my celebrity shots, 2018 winter solstice 33

A love affair that in 1958 caught everyone by surprise: the one between Ava Gardner and Walter Chiari.

Alfred Hitchcock and his wife Alma Reville walking down Via Condotti in Rome, photographed by Rino Barillari.

Two sex-bombs: actress Brigitte Bardot with famous playboy, Gunter Sachs, caught on camera on Via Condotti, Rome.

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Valentino Garavani and Sofia Loren. This is the original picture taken by Rino Barillari that was later damaged by water. On the cover of H Edition, the â&#x20AC;&#x153;restoredâ&#x20AC;? version.

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i was not only good at being in the right place at the right time, i was also good at taking the right picture. I’ve seen so much beauty and so much death. Both have changed my perception on life and i hope that both have also changed and will continue to change the persons that look at my pictures. There is no light without darkness, and the darkness that i have seen, has been tough. You must understand that even if inside i have sometimes felt like crying in the face of Death, a photographer of the truth must still take the picture. i’ve seen terrible things, my darling…”.

(H Edition Milano wants to thank the curators of the magnificent exhibition “Rino Barillari- The King of Paparazzi”, produced by the Istituto Luce Cinecittà, with the contribution of the Direzione Generale Cinema del Ministero dei Beni e delle Attività Culturali. In particular the curator Martino Crespi, with the help of Massimo Spano and Giancarlo Scarchilli, organized by Camilla Cormanni. The exhibit was open to the public from October 12th - 28th 2018, at the MAXXI Museum in Rome.) 2018 winter solstice 37

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Cloakroomâ&#x20AC;? a performance by Olivier Saillard and Tilda Swinton at Pitti Uomo, in Florence, last July.

Art for fashion’s sake Milan or Florence? For the fashion world they are “the place to be”. But between the two cities there is not only fair rivalry but also some problems that need solving. Is the answer to look beyond the clothes and to rediscover an appetite for glamour and art? by Fabiana Giacomotti

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Photo credit: max Vadukulg

It’s a late MornIng at the end oF septeMBer when the man sitting next to me at the Fendi spring-summer fashion show says: “the trouble with Milan is its poor appetite for glamour”. he is one of the top managers in Italian fashion. “Unfortunately, this city loses its shine when it comes to partying, even though Milan isn’t short of neither supply chains, creativity, nor the ability to make the most out of them”, he then adds, just as the rapper nicki Minaji - as boorish and shameless as always - takes the seat in front of us. Backstage, just a few minutes earlier, the press office rep had remarked “she requested to be invited” (not sure whether that was a good thing or not). however, Milan’s legendary reputation of being a hardworking, yet stern city unable to have fun, is proven wrong that very same night by the wonderfully huge Emporio Armani fashion show at the linate hangar, completed by a Robbie Williams’ concert. It is further proven wrong through a dinner organized by Missoni on saturday evening, in celebration of the 65th anniversary of the maison and introduced by means of a display of its exquisite and highly crafted new collection; and yet again on the evening of september 23, at la scala, via the second edition of the Green Carpet Awards. these represent the first attempt made by the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (the national Chamber for Italian Fashion) to create an event that can cross the town’s borders - at times even the regional ones - notwithstanding its mandatory diplomatic fairness. (during the first edition, Valentino’s seamstresses went onstage in white scrubs; this time it will be Salvatore Ferragamo; wanna bet that next year it will be Alberta Ferretti’s turn? after all, this is the only Italian maison of international consequence so far, to have been excluded from any ethically friendly award). however, as it often happens, foreign press and influencers have done their On the left, the location of usual job reminding us that - on the ethical side - the the Emporio Armani fashion show at the Linate Hangar Italian fashion system still has a lot to make amends in Milan. Underneath, the new for. (With carefully studied timing, The New York Gucci Garden inside Palazzo della Times had published a report on what remains of the Mercanzia in Florence; illegal moonlighting activities in the Italian region of a combination restaurant, museum apulia, run by outsider contractors on the payroll of and shop. On this page, Saks Fith Avenue celebrates Italian both Italian and French designers. at the same time, sartorial style at Pitti in Florence. Mark Oaten - president of the International Fur Federation - called attention to the hypocrisy of many Italian brands running fur-free campaigns on the one hand, whilst on the other still skinning snakes and crocodiles to craft their accessories - at times, even breeding them for this sole purpose only). there is no doubt, however, that by spreading awareness of a new set of standards with regard to the use and abuse of fashion, younger generations can be helped to adopt those same values our grandmothers lived by. these included buying a few clothes per year - paying attention to high quality and obviously wanting these tailor-made - to happily guard them forever. (do we really need piles of cheap t-shirts and countless poorly cut trousers that could

2018 winter solstice 41

A bucolic projection covering Palazzo Marino during the Green Carpet Fashion Awards, at the Milano Fashion Week last September. For the occasion the façades of all the buildings in the Piazza della Scala had garden installations.

not even pass for vintage clothing?). “less is better” is the new adaptation of the notorious Ludwig Mies van der Rohe’s aphorism “less is more”. In this regard, the current most discussed topic in Italy, centers around how to include the above in the only apparent opposite need for opulence and representativeness in such a way, as to hit home on the imagination of the newest fashion customers such as the Chinese and the Indonesians. during the latest sessions of the spring-summer fashion shows, this debate however resulted in a resounding desertion: Gucci’s choice to walk the paris catwalk was perceived by many as the starting sign of a progressive decline of the Milanese market. this Italian fashion brand, a member of Kering (a French group at that), hastily claimed this to be only a temporary solution. a party would soon be thrown at gucci’s headquarters in via Mecenate, in Milano, in order to reassure both the Italian media and the National Chamber for Italian Fashion. I can also assure you that - following the rat-infested backstage and many organizational complications they came across during the odeon show in paris - the team is looking forward to heading back to Milan and its steady efficiency. Undoubtedly however, the choosing of a new location for a fashion show by one single brand seems enough, to put into question the strength of the Milanese market: meaning that there is a serious problem that needs to be addressed and solved with a more efficient approach than the mere idea behind Milan XL. this project has been ongoing for several years now under different guardianships. generously sponsored by Ice and under the influence of the national Chamber for Italian fashion, it consists of artistic installations - a bit bulky sometimes - located in the most important squares of the city and narrating a visual tale of the many elements of the fashion industry, from eyewear to beauty. the general public however, simply ignores them. having said this, we also have Florence and its incredible growth as a magnet both for customers as well as the press, combined with its citizens involvement during pitti’s events, as proof that 42

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1. Claudio Del Vecchio 2. Federico Marchetti 3. Christian Louboutin 4. Elle Macpherson with son Arpad Flynn Alexander Busson 5. Marco Bizzarri, Hari Nef 6. Andrea, Allegra and Diego Della Valle 7. Rossana Orlandi, DesirĂŠe Bollier 8. Cindy Crawford 9. Karl Lagerfeld 10. Olivia Palermo, Johannes Huebl 11. Carolyn Murphy 12. Brunello Cucinelli, Cirillo Marcolin, Claudio Marenzi 13. Livia Firth, Carlo Capasa 2018 winter solstice 43

Vain trifles as they seem, clothes haVe, they say, more important offices than to merely keep us warm. they change Virginia woolf our View of the world and the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s View of us 44

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size doesn’t matter when it comes to glamour. (It is very often said that compared to paris, Milan is too small and lacks attractions; and yet, Florence’s city center can be crossed in about half an hour...). Instead, the difference is made by pitti’s ability to captivate the media and international celebrities but - most of all - by its talent scouting, which means by inviting top foreign designers or new interesting fashion talents. Pitti Immagine’s idea to trust the artistic direction of its fashion education project to Olivier Saillard - director and soul of the Musée Galliera in paris - goes precisely in this direction. the same can be said of the by now consolidated practice of entrusting Lapo Cianchi’s taste and inspiration, with the selection process of the most brilliant talents. Deputy General Manager of Pitti Immagine Cianchi, selects designers from tokyo to south america, in order to introduce them to the press and to international buyers currently crowding Pitti Uomo - and who by now often skip the Milanese leg that comes next. It is in recognition of these choices - autonomously made in order to avoid power games and vote-buying - that international media came to know Demna Gvasalia and Gosha Rubchinskiy, years before the former became Balenciaga’s creative director (as well as being entrusted with the direction of the French clothing and footwear design collective group Vetements), Two artworks by Francesco Vezzoli, presented in Florence during and the latter started a successful partnership with the last edition of Pitti Adidas, in addition to developing his own clothing in July. The exhibition “Vezzoli brand. due to its charter, specific goals, as well as its Spring-Summer”, was shown member profile, it is very difficult for the national for the first time at Museo Chamber for Italian Fashion to act at the same speed Bardini, Museo di Casa Martelli and Museo Bellini. or even to pass the same critical eyes of the team such as a company like pitti. nevertheless, the path chosen by Florence is proving itself to be a successful one when compared to Milan that is caught in-between the small, somewhat difficult selection of questionable talents and the influence of Armani and Dolce&Gabbana. their rule being overpowering, even though they are not members of the national Chamber for Italian Fashion. so, in order to re-establish the Madonnina (statue of the Virgin Mary atop Milan Cathedral) as an all-round fashion power we should try to go beyond the Madonnina herself, gathering new inspiration from her iconic gesture that can be spotted even from the parvis in piazza del duomo, 110 meters below: her wide open arms.

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The Laws of Elegance Good manners. Thorough preparation. Respect for oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s clients. Literate knowledge. Love for culture and for sports. And above all, never stop learning. These factors only represent a part of one lawyers decalogue, revealed in this interview; Emilio Marco Casali, one of the most famous Italian Criminal lawyers of all times by Claudio Gallone

Franzo Grande Stevens with Giovanni Agnelli (on the right). Two examples of real elegance in Italian law, in and out of the courtroom. 46

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ELEGAnCE Is A GIfT, an art that in all cases should be cul- It requires a lot of studying. It is a cast-iron discipline. I pertivated; in public as well as in private. Instead, and unfortu- sonally learnt it from my mentor, Raffaele Della Valle, a nately not only in Italy, the relaxed approach has now crossed renowned criminal lawyer from Monza. He taught me the the boundaries of the most serious vocations. slackening of importance of the “folder culture” (the indepth study of promorality has already spread far beyond the (in)famous televi- cedural documents). Raffaele used to tell me: “the polite lawsion shows that are stuffed with bloggers dressed like clowns yer is the one who never exagerates”. thus, negatively affect even the most honorable professions. Is there a golden rule to follow when facing a trial? Lately, the basic rules of elegance - as well as good manners I think of Roberto Sollazzi: The Master of style in Law. - seem to be no longer be in fashion within the confines of He taught me how to write gracefully. Very much aware of the Courts of Justice, and this even in those court hearings, in his value and uniqueness, Roberto always acted with humble which a clients’ life or assets are at stake and in elegance. He is the one who forced me to study their lawyers’ hands. True, there is more to a book civil law, stating that it would be useful even On this page, one than its cover and yet, a lawyer is a kind of book though I’m a criminal lawyer. of the famous Italian whose cover does matter. How can you stylishly face cross-examination, Criminal lawyers and the protagonist How can you single out an authentic legal-eagle, possibly the crucial moment during a trial? of this interview, someone fit to safeguard your individual rights A detailed study of the case always guarantees Emilio Marco Casali from the various slick lawyers or the many histhe best results. In turn, this will also give one a in the courtroom. trionic comedians (“paglietta” in Italian) from composed attitude throughout the hearing, a sosomeone that does not lack pedigree and has the called guarantee of good performance without the adequate knowledge to deliver a decent introductory speech? need to appear arrogant, impolite, or even conceited. At times We discussed this topic with Emilio Marco Casali, a criminal however, one may also need a theatrical or even encroaching lawyer from Pavia, acknowledged by many of his colleagues approach in order to emphasize some parts of the speech. at the Corte d’Assise (serious crimes tribunal) as a real arbi- Do you mean by this that a charmingly staged Coup de ter elegantiarum (a judge in matters of taste and elegance). Théâtre - like the ones we see in movies - has its own style? What are the characteristics of a legal-eagle? But of course!Take Raffaele Della Valle for example. He It is the courtroom presence and not just a mere showing off studied drama with Giorgio Strehler, and his love for the of good manners and formal style. Presence is something one theatre greatly helped him in his professional fulfillment. He acquires, aided by a thorough legal preparation and meticulous has a real knack for dramatics but his style never even gets study of procedural documents. Traits that are insispensable in close to the fraudulent eloquence of a neapolitan “paglietta” order to competently face each individual case. (a neapolitan lawyer famous as much for his wearing a straw Can one learn to master the Art of elegance? hat as for his unethical methods). 2018 winter solstice 47

Actor Gregory Peck in the courtroom drama film To Kill a Mockingbird (1962), in which he interprets Atticus Finch, a lawyer in the American Depression-era, defending a black man against an undeserved rape charge.

How important is a solid cultural background in order to become a part of the legal aristocracy? I have many cultured colleagues. At times however, this cultural knowledge will have them come across as arrogant. A real legal-eagle shows his superiority by his mere presence. It is the art of being loved, culture is not sufficient, empathy is needed. Why does sloppiness prevail in the courtrooms? Most dress casually, even worse however is when fancy clothes are worn that are completely out-of-place in Court. Is there also a protocol for the robe? some have it tailor-made, but it’s not worth it anymore. The robe is an unstructured garment requiring specific care, especially in the processing of the sleeves. It is better to buy it in Milan, at Fraizzoli’s, a legend among manufacturers. What about the accessories? It’s important to wear the robe with the “pettorina” (bib), also known as “davantino” (jabot); a sort of bib that one wears around the neck. It protects the tie from the potential spit that may come out of a lawyer’s mouth during his long closing statements. It is for this reason that its original name was la pazienza (patience). What does a superstar lawyer do in is free time? I do not have much free time, and I prefer to spend it with my family and practicing sport. I’m a triathlete, and this requires much mental and physical energy. I do not compete in the 48

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Ironman contests, as they are too tough; instead I prefer the sprint competitions, consisting of swimming for 750 meters (approx. 820 yards), cycling for 20 km (approx. 12.5 miles) and running for 5 km (approx. 3.10 miles). What about the cultural aspects of life? Personally, I tend to attend cultural circles as much as I can. Recently, I invited the famous writer Gianrico Carofiglio to Pavia. I believe a good lawyer should keep in close touch with the world of intellectuals. What genres of reading do you recommend? I do love Italian classics: Dante Alighieri, Alessandro Manzoni… Yet I also like Niccolò Ammaniti’s contemporary madness. And of course Franz Kafka, I consider The Trial a masterpiece. After all, nowadays it’s not unusual to see Kafkaesque trials in the courts... Among the Italian lawyers of the past, who would you call Arbiter Elegantiarum? Pietro Calamandrei, one of the great jurists of the last century who wrote a Decalogue of ethical rules for the legal profession; but also Fulvio Croce, the president of the Ordine degli Avvocati (Italian Bar) killed by the Brigate Rosse; and Vittorio Chiusano, a great legal-eagle and the first president of the Unione delle Camere Penali (Union of the Criminal Chambers). It is however Franzo Grande Stevens who stands out amongst them all, not only for having been the lawyer of the Agnelli family but also for his elegant vision of the profession.

And on the international scene? Alan Dershowitz for his vast preparation. He taught me how important it is to control the relations with the media and with journalists in general. Clients must be defended in the courtroom, but also, if tried by the newspapers, a good lawyer must defend them there just as much. William Shakespeare warns: “Costly thy habit as thy purse can buy, But not express’d in fancy; rich, not gaudy; For the apparel oft proclaims the man” (Hamlet, Act I, Scene III, Lines 70-72). Is this rule like a mantra to you? Absolutely. The suit is the business card of any lawyer; and if soberly worn, it can guarantee good results. Do judges notice the elegance of the Criminal lawyer? not always. In the words of Gabrìel Gàrcia Marquez, they normally consider a Criminal lawyer to be a “legal illusionist who will erase the facts”, but this is a rather narrow-minded view of the profession. Can we consider the suit as a status symbol for a lawyer? Wearing a three-piece suit, should not be optional. It can be a solid, striped or pinstriped suit; even a birdseye suit is allowed, as long as it’s blue or grey. Prêt-à-porter or tailored? Great elegance requires time; and I cannot always indulge in the luxury of going through the required three fittings of a tailored-made suit, but I try to make the effort. I share the same tailor with the famous Italian journalist Carlo Rossella, a real gentleman when it comes to elegance. His name is Vito Bergamaschi, he is totally old school, and unfortunately needs three fittings to make a tailor-made suit... What about the shirt? It must be white, just like the handkerchief. no flashy item should pop out from one’s breast pocket. Does such strictness tolerate exceptions for ties? I usually wear the sober, hand-stiched and folded Marinella ties. However, I do indulge in Dolce&Gabbana and Gucci. What shoes should you wear in the courtrooms? Lace-ups in the winter and loafers in the summer. I love the handmade shoes by Riccardo Freccia Bestetti, an artisan from Vigevano (near Pavia), and I buy Santoni and Moreschi. Cicero used to fix his robe before delivering his speeches to the Roman Senate. What is the art of drapery? It is something that comes with time and experience. There are however, a few tricks of the trade, such as tightly tying the strings so that the robe stays in place whilst you gesticulate. What is your personal Decalogue of Legal Elegance? 1. nurture your eloquence (speaking is harder than writing). 2. Improve the art of fine writing. 3. Read a lot. 4. Travel the world. 5. stimulate your imagination. 6. Dress in an appropriate manner. 7. Be kind, nurture politeness and good manners. 8. Be resolute and self-confident. 9. study and train a lot, always improve yourself. 10. Pay your taxes. What about the famous “know yourself”, the motto written on the temple of Apollo at Delphi? Knowing your limits is imperative. I question myself on a daily basis. I make many mistakes, but once I realise I’ve made them I immediately admit them.

On top, a self portrait of Piero Calamandrei (1889-1956), one of the most important Italian lawyers. Below, Alan Dershowitz, the American Criminal lawyer of celebrities such as Mike Tyson and O.J. Simpson, famous for having overturned the conviction of Claus von Bülow in 1984.

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Romeo, Romeo ! Romeo ?

Wherefore art thou

Romeo and Juliet William Shakespeare 50

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The 1938 8C 2900 B Lungo with a Touring Superleggera berlinetta body during the “Open Bonnet” event at Museo Storico Alfa Romeo, in Arese.

this is the chronicle of alfa romeo; one of the names that has made the history of Italian automobiles. as seen through the 69 models on display in the renovated alfa romeo history museum in arese by Gianluca pezzi

If there’s a car company whose name is rooted in the history and culture of a place, it’s alfa romeo. founded in 1910 in milan, rising from the ashes of the Italian car company Darracq, when a few entrepreneurs decided to call it alfa. named after the first letter of the Greek alphabet, but above all, as anonymous Lombard factory automobiles. milan, the regional city of Lombardy, was hence able to give impetus to its in-

dustrial activities, in its challenge with turin, the Italian car capital. as a tribute to the city and right from the beginning, the logo is made up from milan’s citycouncil coat of arms; St. George’s Cross on the left, flanked by a big snake, the symbol of the Sforza family, the noble family that held the Duchy of milan from 1450 to 1535, on the right. a combination that has historical foundation behind it pertaining to the city’s standard, thou-

gh in reverse position. the symbol has become so famous around the world that many believe, that the one of alfa romeo is equal to the one of milan. If this isn’t enough, writing “milano”, underneath was a thing of pride, one that was only given up in 1971. so what of the name that was officially adopted in 1918, after the passage of ownership onto the engineer Nicola Romeo: alfa romeo, a combination of 2018 winter solstice 51

1 2

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1. The future King Umberto II di Savoia, nicknamed the May King, during a parade with the Alfa Romeo RL, in 1927. 2. Nicola Romeo with the model “Brilli Peri-Pesenti Alfa Romeo RL Super Sport” in 1927, at the Mille Miglia race. 3. The Alfa Romeo team with the new “6C 1500 Super Sport and MMS” ready for the 1928 Mille Miglia race. 4. Nicola Romeo and Giorgio Rimini with a group of Alfa Romeo workers in the early 20’s. 5. At the1924 Italian Grand Prix. Antonio Ascari, the winner, with Giulio Ramponi (left) and Nicola Romeo. 6. Gastone Brilli Peri racing the “Alfa Romeo RL Super Sport” during 1927 Mille Miglia race. 7. The “Alfa Romeo Grand Prix Tipo P2”, in 1924, with the team. Among the others, Vittorio Jano, Giorgio Rimini, Antonio Ascari, Giulio Ramponi, Giuseppe Campari, Louis Wagner.

1. The 1955 Pinin Farina prototype of the Giulietta Spider. 2. The 1952 1900 C52 Disco Volante. 3. The 1969 Italdesign Iguana, based on the 33 Stradale chassis.

photo credIt: centro documentazIone alfa romeo-arese

names and just as we still know it today, with a flavour and passion that already tastes like Italy, and this just from its name? romeo, along with Juliet are the characters of the most famous Italian love story in the world. two names that evoke the balcony of William Shakespeare’s tragedy, but that in motoring terms mean the Alfa Romeo Giulietta, produced from 1955 to 1966, followed by the more mature Giulia, produced from 1962 to 1977. Located at a stone’s throw from milan, is the Alfa Romeo History Museum: located in Arese, just adjacent to the former alfa romeo central offices. the structure that originated in 1976 was a small building, subdivided into six semi-floors on staggered levels, that housed the historical collection created in the first half of the sixties. after the end of production activity, the museum was closed to visitors in 2011, only to reopen completely renovated in 2015. of great significance today and standing out dominantly, almost a symbol of the museum’s rebirth, is a red structure that crosses the whole complex, making it clearly visible in its “alfa red” all the way from the a8/a9 lake motorways. the museum tour includes a variety of 69 models, that have not only marked the evolution of alfa romeo, but have also written the history of the automobile. there is the very first a.L.f.a. car, namely the 24 hp. there are the Thousand Mile winners, such as the legendary 1750 6C Grand Sport of Tazio Nuvolari. there is the bodyworked 8c touring, but also the 159 formula 1 Grand prix “Alfetta 159” World champion driven by Juan Manuel Fangio. although a small collection, great masterpieces of

engineering and passion, milestones of a world in which both design and subsequent realisation were carried out for the most part by hand. however, there aren’t only the cars in the “pure” state. the museum dedicates space to the people that wrote the history of alfa romeo: the “masters” of style and design. further included herein also the alfa romeo in cinema, the “Giulietta Phenomenon”, formula 1, “Project 33” right up to the “Temple of Victory”, the key players of alfa romeo’s success. special evenings are also offered, such as the “Duet Night”, a tribute to the premier in Italian cinemas of the film The Graduate with Dustin Hoffman. “Open Bonnets” is an event that was created

in honour of the 40th anniversary of the museum, and one in which the bodyworks are left open to allow the cars to be seen in a completely different way. Just think of the vertical opening of the Carabo or Caimano, the huge bonnets of the 33 Type, the removable bodyworks of the 155 DTM or the 164 ProCar. In addition there is also the “Gp at the museum”, an event permitting the viewing of the formula 1 Grand prix directly on the megascreen in the Giulia room. the subtitle of the museum is “time machine”, with a double meaning behind it; being able to go back in time with historical cars but also, in a car of its own time. Indeed, at alfa romeo the names are always spot-on.

When I see an alfa romeo go by, I tIp my hat. henry ford founder of ford motor company

The nexT generaTion Marking the revival of Alfa Romeo in 2016 is the Giulia; the sports, rear-wheeled driven one that provides a pleasure of driving and horsepower that never seems to suffice. The Giulia Quadrifoglio, with its unmistakably Alpha contours and its 510 HP Bi Turbo 2.9 V6 engine. A sound that seems like a symphony and a constant turning of heads as it passes. Power and control, on every type of road; even the most windy. High tops and peaks: at 2,758 metres, the Stelvio is one of the highest passes in Europe and connects Lombardy with Trentino Alto Adige. 48 hairpin turns to reach the goal: a rise that seems never ending, just as much as the fun of running up it. In this case too, a spot-on name: Alfa Romeo Stelvio. Alfa’s first SUV, which in the Quadrifoglio version manages to give the best of the two souls, from the maximum comfort to the utmost sportiness, thanks to the same engine as the Giulia Quadrifoglio, the appropriately tuned 510 HP Bi Turbo 2.9 V6. 2018 winter solstice 55

The Sunny Valley Kelo Mountain lodge, in the middle of the Stelvio National Park, one of the most beautiful Italian winter locations.

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Italyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s five secret winter getaways, from the Alps to the Dolomites. From the elegant and refined Sunny Valley Kelo Mountain Lodge, in the heart of the magnificent Stelvio National Park. To the traditional charm and the modern allure of the Hotel Lamm, in the idyllic village of Castelrotto. From the picturesque village of Varzo, with its flamboyant architecture by Piero Portaluppi. To the fairy-tale like village of EntrĂ¨ve and its romantic Auberge de la Maison, at the base of Montblanc. All the way to the village of San Cassiano, inside the St Hubertus restaurant, for a heart-to heart interview with its three Michelinstar chef (and guru) Norbert Niederkofler by Caterina de Iorgi, Cristina Manfredi and Bartholomew Merriweather 2018 winter solstice 57

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ge. This place of unparalleled excellence that will let you indulge in more than the sweetness of life, is located in the sunny Valle dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Alpe at 2775 meters above sea level. A valley, completely white in winter and exceedingly green in the summer, surrounded by rocky peaks that manifest shapes created through eternal ice.

In its centre, you will find hospitality, a family atmosphere, relaxation, sports and wellness, combined with a wild and unspoiled nature: the heart of the largest national park in Europe. The beauty of these magnificent mountains is reflected throughout the lodge. Built entirely out of local stone and wood of

Photo credit: Alberto orlAndi

SuNNy VALLey KeLo MouNTAIN LoDge Bormio Situated in the sunny heart of the Stelvio National Park, a place where nature in itself is already an enchanting phenomenon and whose setting guarantees an unforgettable experience, you will find the Sunny Valley Kelo Mountain Lod-

Inside the Sunny Valley Kelo Mountain Lodge, built entirely out of local stone and wood of Lappish origin called Kelo.

One of the luxury suites furnished in ancient wood by famous designers from Alto Adige.

Lappish origin called “Kelo”, and constructed by a team of Valtellinese craftsmen and professionals with the aid of an aggregation of Sami (woodwork artists from Finland). Rock excavations brought forth the stones with which the walls were built and the roof is manufactured entirely out of larch shingles. Despite all of this, the real protagonist of the story is however the Kelo; a process in which Finnish logs are interlocked and sealed by the use of a natural fibre that is composed of rock and wood. Stone, glass and the pure scent of wood have been fused together with grandiose views and a light that you will only find on these mountains, to obtain a sensational and exclusive eco-lodge, a balanced co-existence of luxury and simplicity. An abode whose interior blends with its exterior to create a unique environment that is completely natural. elegant and refined, this Mountain Lodge offers ele60

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ven comfortable suites furnished by a designer from Alto Adige. Characterized by their minimal yet comfortable essentiality, the auspice of unobtrusive luxury remains and thus creates a warm and welcoming environment. given the particular build and positioning of its structure, each room enjoys a view of the entrancing panorama with its surrounding mountains, after which each room is named. The Lodge is located on the ski slopes allowing guests a ski-inski-out experience. For those non-skiers amongst us, wellness and relaxation are also guaranteed through a magnificent spa area that is home to the world’s tallest Kelosauna, a traditional Finn sauna that reaches temperatures of up to 100° C. Blessed by low humidity, it develops into a most-pleasant experience. Kelotherapy is immediately followed by “snow wellness”, a practice that entails a decamping into the open and a plun-

ging into the snow encouraging you to breathe the pure, mountainous air. Aubergine gnocchi or mashed potatoes with meat sauce accompanied by a good glass of Lugana can also be found in one of the three restaurants: a bistro, a steakhouse as well as the gourmet restaurant for 250 people, illuminated through large panoramic windows overlooking the mountains. Surrounded by the prodigious high peaks of the Ortler Alps, the hotel also offers a romantic igloo - suite, in which you can spend sublimely unforgettable nights under the stars. Talking igloo, do not miss the most unusual and refined igloo-bar; a place where you can spend time and relax during the day or after skiing. Although by definition an igloo is made of snow, the inside of this igloo contains details that are meticulously cared for. Moreover, it features a wine-list of high quality even if, these are being served “on ice”.

Photo credit: Alberto orlAndi

“kelo” is the nAme of the fir trees growing in the Artic circle

HoTeL LAMM Castelrotto Nestled inside the picturesque landscape that is surrounded by the majestic Dolomite mountains, lies the idyllic village of Castelrotto. The ancient buildings of the old town boast typically medieval structures and the atmosphere of the village entices one to reminisce about the past. Heading in the directions of the vast ski slopes of the region, a pure retrospective of thought is not enough, as located on the slopes of nearby Alpe di Siusi lies the stunning Hotel Lamm. A historic building dating back as far as 1670; one that has managed to become a part of the new world, whilst maintaining the grandeur of the old. Traditional charm and modern elegance, grandeur and refinement; all combined with elements of pellucid alpine architecture to create an extraordinary building that has been furnished with upmost attention to detail. The large lobbyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s elegant and very modern rooms are at the same time alluring One of the new suites of the Hotel Lamm, completely renoveted in 2018, set in an historic building dating back as far as 1670.

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as they are welcoming. Add a breath-taking view into the equation, and you are enthralled by an integral, that speaks of discreet elegance coupled with a pyramid of style. The fusion of stone, wood and glass combined with a neutral palette of colours creates a synthesis that is delicate yet refined, contriving a space in which the furniture is able to stand out for its originality. each room and suite a small jewel amidst the crown, complete with box spring beds, fine-oak wooden floors, small sitting-areas, as well as large bathrooms with rain-effect showers. All of the rooms offer balconies or terraces that overlook the spectacular panorama and in addition, some suites having the supplementary comfort of indoor fir-wood saunas. The direct route of refinement and elegant design is continued into the restaurant Zum Lampl, a veritable temple for chef Marc Oberhofer. The menu consists of traditional South-Tyrolean specialities that have been interpreted with wisdom, using only local and seasonal ingredients; products with short transportation cycles that respect sustainability, a criterion of great importance to the hotel. The Ă la carte is thus filled with epochal fruit and vegetables, alpine herbs, milk and dairy products as well as meat from the local farmsteads. on the top floor of the Hotel Lamm, you 62

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The spectacular roof terrace of one of the suites with the view of the Dolomite mountains. Above, the inside of another suite, with fine-oak wooden floors, and box spring bed.

will find a spa oasis at which you will want to while away the hours and be lulled into a blissful state of relaxation. A large, sublimely aesthetic wellness area, Finn-sauna, bio-sauna and Turkishbath will help start you down a path of heavenly repose. Succeed these rituals with a visit of the experience showers to then subsequently, recline on one of the indoor or outdoor pine beds, where you will have the time to extensively study the immense menu of possible wellness treatments that one of the highly skilled, therapists could deliver. As your thou-

ghts wonder with regard to which of the body-and-mind healing treatments to choose from, make sure to climb the stone stairs that lead to the upper terrace and its rooftop sky pool. Built in a modern version of a barn-like structure, a little swim in the waters that are maintained at a constant temperature of 30Â° Celsius year-round or even a visit to the open-aired sky whirlpool are the perfect place to be surrounded by the marvellous mountains of the Dolomites and definitely the most consummate way to end your spa visit.

VAL D’oSSoLA Travelling through the Alps, you will discover lots of hidden gems and many secrets. Take the northern part of the Piedmont region that borders Switzerland as an example. Here you will find the Val d’ossola, a mere two-hour drive from Milan and just under 100 km from its Malpensa Airport. Domodossola, the biggest town in the area, harbors many secrets that factually not many people are aware of. At the beginning of the 20th Century, Ettore Conti (with his company Società Imprese elettriche Conti) developed his new energy business here and as a consequence, the valley is filled with power stations. His daughter went on to marry Piero Portaluppi, the famous architect. Some of 20th century Milan’s most significant buildings bear his signature, such as Villa Necchi Campiglio, Casa degli Atellani, the Hoepli Planetarium and the Arengario, located in the Duomo square. Conti requested of his son-in-law to design the premises that would accommodate the engines, and Portaluppi did so flamboyantly; Crego, Grosio, Valdo, Crevaldossola, Cadare and Verampio all variant from one another and all built at different times

between 1916 and 1930. Nevertheless all united by an attestation of Portaluppi’s style and his search of an aesthetic that was representational for the «House of energy». These compounds are a must-see for art lovers. Also located in the valley are the towns of Varzo and San Domenico. A great choice is to book a room at the recently inaugurated La Vetta; a four-star superior hotel in San Domenico, a virtual hamlet standing at 1400 meters. From there, you can easily reach the little municipality of Varzo, a small village on the left side of the Divedro Valley and the perfect place to stop whilst visiting the area, the Devero Natural Park a must. The village itself is completed by a medieval stone tower built in the 14th century and the Romanesque church that dates back to 1100 B.C., imperforated by an abundance of frescoes, stained glass windows and wooden artworks. Notwithstanding, you can also move to nearby Trasquera, where one shouldn’t miss the Oratorio dell’Annunciata built in 1638, or travel to Baceno with its San Gaudenzio church (a peculiar mix of Romanesque and gothic styles). Make sure you don’t skip the village

of Crodo, famous for its churches, the Casa Museo della Montagna (an entire museum dedicated to the mountains) and Sass Fendù, an enormous stone, curiously split into two and a symbol for the many bouldering activities that take place in the area. For those who enjoy skiing or snowboarding, there is the most breathtaking chairlift that will hoist you from San Domenico to the Alpe Ciamporino, at 1900 meters. Do not give the second lift up to the Dosso (2500 m) a miss, even if you have decided to take a break at Rifugio 2000, an enchanting hut set at 1931 meters above sea-level and where you can not only taste the local cuisine but also stay overnight. At this altitude, snow is usually not a problem so you can make full use of the 2 kilometers of slopes. South facing and sunny during the day, the nights are not less exciting. Join the night skiing every Saturday evening (from January) and make your way from Alpe Ciamporino all the way down to San Domenico, an odyssey of almost 3 kilometers. Should you however feel extraordinarily generous, you can also rent the entire slope and arrange a private skinight for yourself and your friends.

A view of the village of Varzo and its medieval stone tower. 2018 winter solstice 63

Norbert Niederkofler

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natural environment, changed with each season, so that his customers are ascertained surprises and a unique culinary experience every time. Chef Norbert Niederkofler, you have created a gastronomic revolution. Can you tell us about your mountain cuisine? I have purely followed what nature teaches us. I commemorate our roots and traditions, our culture. This particular way of thinking modifies one’s experience of nature; a different path is followed. In my opinion a necessary one however, we should rethink our ways of life so that we leave a better world. We would like to congratulate you on your three Michelin stars. Reaching the three stars with this genre of cooking, is for me an incredible success; four or five years ago, this would not have been possible. The Guide Michelin is a French handbook and so, wor-

king mainly on Italian terrain and with this diverse type of cuisine, it constitutes a unique situation in the world. What fuels your creativity and what are the factors that continue to influence your choices in the culinary field? I was happy to put together a team of young people that work with me in the kitchen, they are my fuel. By sharing various values, in particular those that constitute new and different qualities of life, the most important elements are united. Today we have succeeded in creating a strong, close-knit faction that works together with professors of fermentation science and mycologists, in order to continue our training. The study opens up completely new horizons, even if we are working on themes and elements that already exist in our natural habitat, survival being the strongest amongst them. It thus not only constitutes the core of the mountain cuisine but it is also the

Photo credit: dAnielt+Âchterle

ReSTAuRANT ST. HuBeRTuS San Cassiano Chef Norbert Niederkofler has established himself in the heart of the Dolomites, meeting the magic of the Alps with his three Michelin star restaurant St. Hubertus. Motivated by the awe-inspiring mountain chain that surrounds the restaurants’ location, Niederkofler has used his experience and combined it with his dedication to nature in order to create a revolutionary menu. Taking advantage of the alpine flavours that characterize the region, his “Cook the Mountain” project focuses on increasing the culinary identity of Southern Tyrol and thus strengthening its unique gastronomic culture as well as at the same time promoting sustainable agriculture, and its many social implications. Chef Norbert selects only the highest quality ingredients that are found in his circumambient to create his unique dishes. His recipes and menu amalgamate with the

element that has the strongest effect and influence on the creation of dishes. In its broadest sense, explain the special ingredient that is Chef Niederkofler. There no longer is just one special ingredient as working in the way we do, following nature, working with the farmers that grow the vegetables without the aid of greenhouses, we are 100% subjected to the rules of nature. By respecting the climate and its rules, you cease to be you. It is nature that makes this decision for you and the Chef that makes himself available to nature. This is the precise reason that there is no longer an ingredient that you cannot live without. Seasons change and nature runs its course providing you the necessary raw materials your body needs. Can you tell us how and where the St. Hubertus menu originated from? We are currently working on our winter menu. As previously stated, the farmers we work with bring us the raw materials, everchanging depending on the season, both in variety as well as quantity. Nature gives what nature produces. Workwise summer is our busiest and most

demanding period as all the food for the winter is prepared using all possible conservation methods so that the products can be used all year-round. What inspired you to become a chef? For me it has always been the kitchen, in the sense of a place, in which everything that was and is important in my life comes together. Firstly, a kitchen is a place of warmth, especially those like the olden-day ones that still have wooden stoves. Secondly, a kitchen is the place in which the raw materials are processed. Last but not least, it is the place in which people gather around a table to eat, to talk, to listen and learn. These three factors characterize my personal fundamentals, as it is in a kitchen that I feel at home and it is also the place in which I took so many important steps in my life in order to arrive where I am today. A double-chef dinner. Who would you choose? My biggest hobby is reading biographies and learning about different kinds of people. I would love to cook with the Dalai Lama or with a native American living on a reserve. one of my most inte-

resting experiences in this respective was in Australia not too long ago, where we cooked together with the Aborigines. Food and all that it encompasses, is something that allows you to get to know other people and their cultures. How would you like to be written about in ten years? I would like to be remembered as an individual that opened the minds of the younger generations, as somebody who has worked to re-enforce the environment, that has pushed to make the kitchen even more sustainable as well as someone that succeeded in making the values of mountain cuisine known. I am elated to be able to teach the young to be well prepared, to respect nature and raw materials. When you get to a certain age, you realise there are few things in life that are really important: eating well & healthily, aging wisely; being responsible not only for myself but above all, also in regard to the young people that are working with me. Finally, to leave something, and I think that with my mountain cuisine and these three stars, I will really leave my mark.

Photo credit: AleX moling

reAching the three michelin stArs with this genre of cooking is for me An incredible success

Two of Chef Norbertâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s signature dishes: sweetbreads and eel and smoked broth (left).

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AuBeRge De LA MAISoN entrèves A small fairy-tale-like village at the base of the ever-stunning sovereign MontBlanc, entrèves, is home to the Auberge de La Maison. Located just a few minutes from the centre of Courmayeur and its jet-set lifestyle, between the flows of the glaciers ice and the mountainous rocks, well-balanced amongst different shades of colours; ranging from sky-blue to rock-grey and black and onto white infused glares, coupled with a breath-taking view of the opulent Massif, it is impossible not to feel enveloped by the refined atmosphere. Crossing its threshold, one breathes the charm of unadulterated, Alpine tradition. Cosy settees meticulously placed around the crackling fire, the scent of old wood that lingers and vintage prints arranged discreetly throughout, all give the Auberge de La Maison that special, ‘je ne sais quoi’. All of the thirty-three rooms differ from one another. Some rooms have romantic undertones, whilst others are characterized by typical ceramic-tiled stove fireplaces or by their wooden loft-like personality. The one thing however that is for certain and a constant throughout, be it from a window or a balcony, the views that are on display; of the valley, the Brenva Glacier, the village or of the large Mont Blanc Massif itself. Fragrant larch wood from the Aosta Valley covers the walls of the Auberge’s restaurant and according to the most ancient of traditions, the large fireplace crackles permanently. guests can enjoy traditional local cuisine inside or on the vast terrace of the Maison, where the only sound perceived will be one of melting, dripping snow combined with the sound of the village bells. The two small chalets positioned close-by the pool create a magical ambiance that will turn any dinner into a semblance of incantation. The Maison’s d’Eau Spa has recently been renovated and expanded, to now offer its discerning clients a wellness area inclusive of an indoor and outdoor heated swimming pool, complete with a mountain waterfall, hydro massage and chromotherapy. The essence of the mountains mingled with comfortable sunbeds and continuous background music provides a consensus that guarantees your requiescence. Terminate a spa day at the Maison with its Finn sauna and steam bath and one will be guaranteed to leave regenerated, in body as well as mind. 66

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A fAiry-tAle hotel set between the flows of the glAciers ice

The two small chalets and a breath-taking view at the Auberge de La Maison.

Player Dario Musso of team Cartier. Below, Gerardo Mazzini (Nr. 4) and Hissam al Hyder (Nr.3) of team Maserati, and Dario Musso (Nr.4) and Juan Cruz Greguoli (Nr.2) of team Cartier.

Ladies and GentLeman:

the Snow Polo World Cup

St.Moritz Power, elegance and glamour. In other words, it’s time for the 35th annual “high goal” polo tournament. From the 25th to the 27th of January, meet us on the famous frozen lake by Kate Rappsilber

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the uLtimate chaLLenGe 70

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What do most PeoPle knoW about Polo? that it is a horseback mounted team sport. a game that is played by two opposing parties using a long-handled wooden mallet to hit a small ball. Its purpose: to score as many goals as possible. Contrarily for those of us in the know, it is anything and everything but, as that is a description far too simple. Polo is aggressive horsemanship at its best, requiring power, balance, incredible skill and coordination. this is what we expect and what we come for. We will stand on a frozen lake. the air will be fresh, crisp. the Engadin mountains will glisten in the backdrop and behind us there will be the chatter of people, the discreet popping noise of champagne bottles followed by the effervescence whoosh of it being poured. exclusivity, glitterati, fashion and mystique surrounding the dazzling players will be in abundance. there will be the sound; the unmistakable thumping, hammering, pounding commotion that running horses make; the ponies that will face each other on this magnificent lake. We will be offered a veritable spectacle; Snow Polo World Cup St. Moritz. Reto Gaudenzi, a world-famous Polo Player himself, founded the st moritz Polo Club in 1978. In 1983, invited to compete in munich with his team, Reto - with promotional purposes in mind - asked Dr. Danuser (director of the st. moritz tourist board) to join him. danuser seized the occasion to suggest another shot at snow Polo (subsequent to the failed attempt in the 60’s). Gaudenzi true to himself, did not acknowledge its previous failure as “mission impossible”. Instead, it gave birth to his “ultimate challenge”. the decision was made and the first snow Polo event ever was to be held the weekend of 23/24 January, 1985. If inflatable balls could be used for inside Polo, nothing should stand in the way of their use on snow. but what of the Polo Pitch or the stability of the horses on snow? Peppino Cattaneo from st moritz who had invented a hoof grip (a sort of insert between the hoof and snow to prevent slush, snow and dirt from collecting inside the hoof cavity) immediately began production of 100 grips and accompanying shoes with studs. two teams (a German one and Gaudenzi’s) were quickly assembled but dubious reactions from potential sponsors continued to be a hurdle that needed to be crossed. differently, Cartier’s alain Perrin reaction. he was delighted by the idea and asked only one question: “ça marche - ou ça marche pas”? Gaudenzi’s answer “ça marche” resulted in his finding snow Polo’s first benefactor and to date, Cartier remains the main sponsor providing the much-coveted Cartier Trophy. the outlandish idea to sell lake shares at ChF 100.- per m2 (redundant once melted) subsequently provided the rest of the financing. It was a go! Bruno Roncoroni (switzerland’s answer to mr. Pommery) supplied the champagne and Reto Mathis agreed to cater the food for the VIP tent. over 1000 spectators attended and were greeted by a day that was charged with atmospheric magnetism. the same cannot be said about the weather. snow did not stop falling, visibility was less than 2 meters and the polo pitch was nowhere to be seen. the lake could not hold heavy snowplows but Gaudenzi true to form, was not to be deterred. a snow removal team was quickly assembled and by that afternoon, a pitch of 80m by 40m had been cleared. the event was able to go ahead. a great success. the next morning as the sun rose once again above the majestic mountains, this milestone was firmly implanted into the winter calendar of the small, jetset location positioned just beyond the curvaceous roads of the Julier pass. Yesterday, today, and tomorrow, the snow Polo World Cup will remain as much a prestigious event as ever, the general vibe one of pure continuity. In January 2019 we can look forward to Juan Martin Nero, Polo superstar ranked amongst the top 3 players worldwide to join team Cartier. along with Grant Ganzi (one of the best youth players in the us), local hero Tito Gaudenzi and Marc Ganzi, Cartier once again has a prodigious team. Chris Hyde, 7-fold champion will represent team Maserati joined by Zhanna Bandurko, Valery Mischchenko, Robert Strom and Max Charlton. azerbaijan Land of Fire will make their debut following their 2nd place at the european Championships in september, and team Badrutt’s Palace Hotel is once again captained by Melissa Ganzi. the 35th annual snow Polo World Championship will again take place on the frozen lake of st. moritz. Personalities, glamour, and an atmosphere that can only be described as one-of-a-kind will arrive to these majestic mountains as we partake in an incredible event filled with world class Polo ponies, ridden by what can only be considered the best of the best. and if luck should so have it, we might even manage to catch a glimpse of the marvelous Reto Gaudenzi whilst we will stand, submerged in a world onto itself. thank you Reto, for your endurance in reaching the summit of your “ultimate challenge”.

Player Alejandro Novillo Astrada of team Badruttâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Palace. Below, three players of team Badruttâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Palace (in blu shirts) and players of team Azerbaijan Land of Fire.

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Black and green silk light organza V-neck gown with all-over embroidered velvet cape and dyed to match feather details on the top and bottom, worn with black lace tights. GUCCI

W nter bloom The most spectacular evening gowns, in a fashion story freely inspired by fantastical scenery and the poetic brushwork of Italian artist Francesco Guardi (1712-1793), one of the greatest view-painters of the Venetian School by Gioia Carozzi photography by Andrea Varani

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Black Mongolian fur coat with logo button, floral print shirt-dress with all-over tone-on-tone rhinestone embroidery, cap with fringe in light blue lurex, over the knee boot in black stretch nappa and calfskin leather with velvet laces. GIORGIO ARMANI

Jersey printed dress with shoulder-pads, black leather belt with gold buckle, leather platform-boots. VERSACE

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Long pleated and printed fil coupĂŠ dress with maxi ruches in printed duchesse. MARIO DICE

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Gown in silk organza, tulle and chiffon, with ruffled sleeves and entirely covered by ruffle decoration. Red â&#x20AC;&#x153;Devotion Bagâ&#x20AC;? with the sacred heart (a symbol of faith and an object of trust), applied to the flap in an antique bronze clad 24kt gold, crafted with the ancient technique of lost-wax casting known as cire-perdue. DOLCE&GABBANA

Maxi coat in violet teddy wool, with shaped shoulders. FENDI

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Chiffon dress, allover embroidered with multiflowered sequins, and gold leaf earrings. VALENTINO

Sleeveless silk twill tunic dress in heritage scarf print, printed silk scarf worn as a bandana, 30â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s inspired design drop-earrings in black enamel and golden brass with small logo on the side and matching pendant necklace. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO

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Organza one-shoulder dress with asymmetric placement of crochet ruches, and white lace underwear. ERMANNO SCERVINO Model: Beatrice Brusco@The Fabbrica (Milano) Hair and makeup: Stefania Caramelli for Freelancer Agency Milano Fashion assistant: Alexa Lewis Location: Canottieri San Cristoforo (Milano), and Cascina Boscaccio (Bonirola di Gaggiano)

T h e

by Giorgia Chiampan

a gondola in Milan? a dream that became reality with two “nutty” men: sergio Passetti and Umberto Pagotto...

connection

gondola

On the bank Of the histOric waterway that connects Milan to Pavia and Lake Maggiore, there stands a complex of two little churches dedicated to saint christopher - patron saint of the voyagers. standing side-by-side and brimming with history they are a symbol, a one-of-a-kind locus amoenus in this italian metropolis that is increasingly dominated by traffic, frantic business and nightlife. Saint Christopher’s church is also the place that Milanese romantically and lovingly refer to as precious to the city. in fact, it is here that in 1491 Ludovico il Moro - then Duke of Milan – secretly met young beatrice d’este - his wife to be - as she arrived by water from ferrara to embrace her new life with him. building the Duomo of Milan was largely made possible due to goods and raw materials that were transported through the canals from Lake Maggiore to the city. Large flat-bottom ships that could carry heavy weights, 82

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would hold course through the natural flow of the Naviglio Grande to reach the Darsena (italian for “dockyard”). Once here, the heavy construction materials were unloaded near the Ponte dello Scodellino (a bridge where customs duties were collected, at the cost of one scudello - one coin - hence where the italian name is presumably derived from); the unloaded boats would then go back upstream along the Naviglio Pavese in order to leave the city. i am listening to all these fascinating anecdotes whilst comfortably sitting on a gondola with Sergio Passetti - founder of the rowing club Circolo Canottieri San Cristoforo - a man idolizing his hometown and incontestably a lover of paddle and rowing sports. the gondola is property of the club, and it is being propelled by Umberto Pagotto, an expert in voga veneta (a rowing technique invented and developed in Venice).

having left from the little church, we are now navigating down neta rowing classes, of course taught by Umberto. it is he, who to the Darsena on our rather peculiar means of transport, catch- is also responsible for taking tourists for gondola rides (rigoring the attention of those along the navigli’s banks. tourists ously dressed in his uniform: white trousers and a shirt in the look at us, children wave at us, there is an abundancy of stops san cristoforo colors). “I’ve become the most photographed and stares, as if people are caught by surprise. Passetti is a man man in Milan, my face has ended up on every social network” inamorato with tradition, and this is proven to me when he he says, puzzled and amused at the same time “… i witnessed smilingly says, “i strongly supported the revival of Cimento, some really magical moments, as to many people a gondola the famous ritual dive from saint christopher’s bridge. the rit- is the perfect setting for proposals and love declarations. this ual was started by the rowing club of Milan in 1895: it consists makes me very happy, as in my singular capacity i become an of diving from the bridge into the waters of the accomplice to these unique moments”. in sync navigli during the so-called Giorni della Merla with his friend and colleague, Passetti chimes in: Below, the Canottieri (“the blackbird days”; the last three days of Janu“On top of it being a sport and it giving the opSan Cristoforo. On ary which are - according to italian tradition - the portunity to learn a new rowing technique, the the opposite page, the coldest days of the year). gondola should be used to teach this Milan a founder Sergio Passetti and the “gondoliere” anyone may think that finding a gondola in a city lesson. it should remind its frenzied citizens to Umberto Pagotto (right). other than Venice is rather odd, a publicity stunt take their time, to stop and watch, to listen to the made to attract tourists. that there is a marketable sound of the water and to observe the history that intent behind this, cannot be denied. however, surrounds us all. We should slow our pace down when digging deeper, one discovers that art, culture and a need a bit, and embrace more of a Venetian rhythm of life. to find for deep brotherhood-like relationships also drive this project. some time to reconnect with nature: this is the real luxury of our firstly, it is important to understand the spirit behind the cir- modern times. We need to enjoy what Milan has always offered colo canottieri san cristoforo, established in 2009 when Pas- us. You can savor peace in this waterway, can’t you?” setti - having been in charge of another rowing club for many in order to wake us up from our sensory numbness, these years - decided to use innovation in order to take back tradi- two protagonists of this most unconventional adventure have tions. he did so by swimming against the tide, deeply aware decided to use the gondola in an extraordinary, yet touching of what he was doing and rowing to the sound of “Remus Ad- way. throughout the year, circolo canottieri san cristoforo verso Flumine” (paddle upstream against the river), a motto hosts several cultural events on the gondola, ranging from that is not only a way of life, but one that also explicitly chal- artistic performances to traveling concerts of all kinds: lenges his next-door neighbor and rival; the canottieri Olona from jazz groups and opera singers to the classical music Milano rowing club. “i have always been a forerunner looking concert held in honor of the carnival of Venice, including at the future, trying to stand out from competitors in order to of course, typical venetian masks. this proves that the sense find new ideas and innovations that would be more valuable behind this whole story is something cultural, by far superior for my athletes, the teams and for the children. for this reason, to a mere tourist attraction, and deeply rooted in the love of i have aimed my efforts at diversifying the offers of the club in- history, traditions and culture. stead of trying to reach greatness for it. We have often brought according to Umberto, the real difference between a gondola new boats to the club, including the purchase of a gondola: it in Milan versus Venice is that “Venice is the real jewel, its arrived in December 2017 after we had it restored in a Venetian sights are unique. You cannot compare a gondola ride through squero (shipyard)”. Passetti’s meeting with treviso-born Um- the Pearl of the Lagoon (Venice’s nickname) with what we do berto Pagotto has undoubtedly been a perfectly timed event. here. In Venice, the city itself is the leading lady, whilst on Umberto started rowing in the Venetian style when he was a the Navigli, the hero is you”. as of last year, circolo canotchild, rowing on the Sile and venturing into the lagoon in order tieri san cristoforo has been twinned with the Reale Società to refine his mastery of the technique. When the time was ripe, Canottieri Bucintoro of Venice, established in 1882. a distheir longtime friendship made it possible to offer new voga ve- play of common purpose and a unity of style.

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Sense and sensibility A perfume that is a tribute to one hundred years of one of the most prestigious Italian fashion groups. Inspired by the ones introduced in the 1980â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, Trussardi Donna and Trussardi Uomo are the best-selling fragrances. Restyled by two of the most famous noses in the world, Nathalie Lorson and AurĂŠlien Guichard, a new spin has been taken that speaks of romanticism, emotions, elegance, sensuality and the lightheartedness of love. To be discovered in this double nose-to-nose interview. by Emanuela Dellâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Atti 84

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NAThALIE LoRsoN What do you think is the trait that has made you such a prolific Master Perfumer? It all starts with passion, but then a lot of work is needed because designing fragrances is a constant work in progress. When I was training in a perfumery school in Grasse, I first learned about raw materials and how to work with them. I memorized a lot of scents and learned about their association with one another. I have learned to focus on the aesthetic aspect of composition, trying to find the best harmony between all ingredients. But I have to say that one never stops learning, being patient is also key, and being a good listener can often make the difference. When creating Trussardi Donna did you apply an Italian olfactory vision? Italy is the country where elegance and freshness are best combined. In this perfume sensuality is conveyed by enveloping woody and musky notes. I chose notes of yuzu, cedrat and watermelon for a citrus and sparkling top note, a floral heart built around orange blossom and a drydown of sandalwood, cedar wood, white patchouli and vanilla. How much were you inspired and The German top model influenced by the brand’s fragrances Alisa Ahmann, of the 1980’s? is the new face of The first Trussardi Donna was a the fragrance Trussardi great success, its signature in line Donna, created by Nathalie Lorson. with the olfactive taste of the 80’s.

This perfume embodied the true values of the brand: tradition, innovation and modernity. Crafting the new fragrance, I tried to convey the same values with a contemporary vision through the use of clearer and lighter structure. The bottle, with its white and gold colors has also been a source of inspiration for me. Trussardi Donna is said to express modern femininity. What is modern femininity to you? I think that modern femininity is sensuality conveyed through freshness and dynamism. I imagined a fragrance in line with Trussardi’s values, embodied by a resolutely contemporary woman who loves qualitative materials. A woman that conveys a youthful and luminous aura tinted with sensuality and elegance. How long did you work on this project? And when was the magical time where you thought: “OK, I have it?” I worked hard for months to develop Donna, doing my best to shape a perfume that recalls the Trussardi legacy. When I felt like the fragrance enveloped me in a soft and radiant embrace, I was sure that I had just “smelled” Trussardi Donna You often cite the author Antoine de Saint-Exupéry: “Perfection is achieved not when there is nothing else to add but when there is nothing else to take away”. Minimalistic approach to Trussardi? A minimalistic approach is perfect to convey the idea of sensuality for a strong Italian fashion brand like Trussardi. For Donna I imagined a modern, simple yet qualitative fragrance, a clear structure that enhances the fine materials composing it.

Tomas Skoloudik, the male protagonist of Trussardi Uomo, photographed inside Villa NecchiCampiglio, in Milano.

AURéLIEN GUIChARD When creating Trussardi Uomo where did your memories take you back to? They suddenly brought me to the Mediterranean summers I spent in Grasse, in the 1980’s. To my grandfather who used to cultivate flowers; my inspiration came from the smell of his hands and the leather gloves he used to wear, a sensual and powerful memory. Those are the gloves that became inspiration for Trussardi Uomo. How much where you influenced and inspired by the brand’s long heritage? To me Trussardi’s heritage is a mix of precious textures and high-quality ingredients. I felt inspired to use only exclusive raw materials and I worked on the way to shape them together. Trussardi Uomo embodies elegance and Italian spirit. How did you translate this in the fragrance? Italians are elegant because they are Italian. I tried to use many Italian ingredients, like citrus notes from Calabria, combining these with classical and at the same time modern textures such as precious woods, patchouli moss and soft leather. Was working side by side with Nathalie Lorson (head of Trussardi Donna) in any way similar to playing your favorite music; Jazz? I was working in Givaudan whilst Nathalie was in Firmenich. We developed the fragrances separately and yet, 86

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we were probably playing the same kind of music: using the heritage of Trussardi as well as a similar concept of beauty and timeless elegance. You have a Bachelor’s Degree in Economics, Politics and Sociology. What made you turn into a Master Perfumer? My mother is a sculpture artist and my father is a perfume artist: in my child-hood, they always pushed me to be openminded and to study abroad; understanding all the cultures and working with people of different heritage. Creating a perfume is about the creation for all people and the understanding of their cultural backgrounds. I feel this more than what I studied, it may be the fact that I went away from my home country that might have made the difference. You also grow Centifolia roses in Tourrettes (Var). Is this your secret garden? I would say yes. It allows me to be close to nature and nature is very important in my fragrances. Describe Trussardi Uomo with one adjective. May I use two?: unique and refined. Is there a nose of the past who influenced you? My father; he taught me that being a perfumer is a form of art. Uomo and Donna is about a love story between two strong personalities. In the olfactory note where would you place passion and where love? The leather note represents at the same time both love and passion: a beautiful Italian love story.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;Suddenly he was inside the radius of her perfume and kissing her breathlesslyâ&#x20AC;? First Blood F. Scott Fitzgerald

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Photo credit: theMahler.coM

Marina AbramoviÄ&#x2021; The Hero, video, 2001, Amsterdam (LIMA Foundation).

Swept away The legend of Performance Art Marina Abramović, as seen through the eyes of arturo Galansino, director at Palazzo strozzi in florence. discover the secrets behind one of the most important and controversial exhibitions of the year by Iwana Krause

How many Times in your life Has a work of arT really ToucHed you? Touched you in the sense that your innermost thoughts, your heart, your soul were affected? Has this ever happened with works by a living artist? works of a human being that you could potentially meet, relate to, talk to, touch, explore? link this to another question. Has an individual ever impressed you to the extent that you can’t help yourself but to tell others, to constantly but inadvertently pay them compliments, to find yourself in awe? To be in awe is something that we should all be of italy’s newest maestro. a maestro not of fashion. not of design. not of cuisine. But a maestro of contemporary art; Arturo Galansino, director at the magnificent Palazzo strozzi in florence. arturo not only brought contemporary art to Florence but has ensured that it gain significance throughout the whole country. it took him almost four years to create this new identity, and today he can proudly state that the Palazzo Strozzi has been placed on the map, firmly, shoulder to shoulder with the likes of the MoMa, Tate Modern and the Centre Pompidou just to name a few. Quoting arturo’s words; the Palazzo strozzi has arrived. from us all, a big, much deserved welcome. a huge applause should be next on our list as his newest venture for the Palazzo brings with it not only a fascinating exhibition but also the one and only godmother of performance art; Marina Abramović. combine the two and the result is nothing less than an explosion. when speaking to Galansino, he agrees (albeit accompanied by a little, hesitant laugh) with the statement that abramovic should be considered the godmother of performance art. we understand where the little laugh comes from, as he subsequently quickly adds that it is she, that does not refer to herself as such. marina, he professes, prefers the use of the term grandmother. interpret the past and evaluate the present with regard to marina’s career, and we are quick to deduce why she believes this. in the end, we cannot help ourselves but to agree with her; because she was and is the original. and it is this originality that makes her so incredible, so downright cool. starting her career in the early 70’s, marina was a real pioneer amongst young artists, Performance art a new way of expression. speaking to arturo about marina, he on the one hand becomes quiet, pensive. on the other his feeling of sheer delight, of pure excitement is contagious and he manages to transfer his immense admiration onto everyone around him. 2018 winter solstice 89

To him, marina is a true artist. True in the sense that she is authentic, bona fide, genuine and sincere. unquestionable, veritable. Her uniqueness makes her hugely universal. marina is a woman that has changed history, that has made art accessible to everybody. it is this accessibility that arturo finds imperative. But to leave it at that, would be too simple, and simple is not a word that describes neither marina nor arturo for that matter. He loves marina’s consistency and adores the fact that Italy shaped her as an artist in so many ways. Some of Abramović’s most important works were created here. Her early performances had touches reminiscent of roman Gods and Caravaggio has influenced her, with his gloomy settings taken for inspiration. Michelangelo however, is the one that Marina Abramović openly refers to as her personal Maestro, having impacted her profoundly. In homage, Arturo organized for her work Anima Mundi to be displayed in front of michelangelo’s Pietà Bandini at the Museo dell’Opera del Duomo in Florence. no comments are necessary at this point, as the incredibleness of this act alone, speaks for itself. Time however, moves on and can thus bring with it change. sometimes, change can be good. sometimes, change is not desirable and it could potentially be better to persevere, to never accept any form of deviation from one’s path. such is the case of marina; in the 80’s, a time when Performance art had become unfashionable, marina never drifted from her passage. instead, she continuously pivoted in her exploration not only of herself but also of her art. Going beyond her limits she created an awareness of body and mind that in Galansino’s eyes is more than inspiring. He loves the journey she undertook, from violent to soothing, spiritual to empathic in the later years. she might be older now but she never lost any of her essence along the way. for arturo it is very simple; she just gets better and better with age. she is huge. she has personality. she is surprising. she has a body with no limits and in his opinion privately, she is the nicest, warmest, funniest person one will ever meet. with her exhibition "The Cleaner" held at the Palazzo Strozzi (21 September 2018 to 20 January 2019), marina once again achieved the impossible. in her works, she is the only constant presence, the one that allows her art to exist. for over 40 years she has challenged herself, has exposed her body to countless forms of torture, has tested her limits. she has whipped herself, cut herself, sat motionless for hours. in her performance Rythm O (early 70’s) she allowed the public to do as they wish whilst she lay on the floor surrounded by 72 various instruments 90

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Photo credit: alessandro Moggi

count on us, video installation, 2004, Amsterdam (LIMA Foundation).

Marina abraMovic' has changed history because she has Made her art accessible to everybody

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Ulay/Marina Abramović relation in movement (Collection of Museum Lyon). art must be Beautiful, video, 1975, New York (Statens Museum for Kunst, Copenhagen).

including a gun containing a single bullet. Today she still fills the rooms, and at the Palazzo not a single eye is left completely dry whilst travelling the road of this retrospective. How is this possible? what is it that makes marina’s exhibition so fascinating? for Galansino it is the certitude that there is power. That there is energy, dynamism. it is the element that there is something in it for everybody. in actual fact there are a tremendous number of diverse sensations, some tangible, some not so much. most importantly however, there is something that can only be described as unique. Because marina is the embodiment of unique. This uniqueness is what will forever stand at the forefront of any of marina’s accomplishments.when speaking to arturo about the title of the retrospective "The cleaner", and as such putting to question the word cleaner, trying to find a relevance with marina’s communist upbringing or linking it to potential political or personal issues, one stands quickly corrected. of great important at this point is that there be no misunderstanding. arturo explains the name "The cleaner" with fervor; from now on, marina wishes to travel light. it is a cleansing of her internal past, a retrospective from a psychological point of view. what should she keep of her journey? once again, she astounds us, as she sets in motion what most of us just think about potentially doing one day. By Cleaning the House (sculpture, 1995) she starts a metamorphosis. The one that slowly propels her into another phase. A metamorphosis is also what the Palazzo Strozzi has undergone under the direction of arturo Galansino. located in the city of florence, metropolis of incredible beauty, architecture, sculpture, art and shrine to the renaissance. reminisce with the words which Elizabeth Browning wrote in a letter to a friend: “florence holds us with a glittering eye; there’s a charm cast round us, and we can’t get away”. casting a charm around us is what arturo does on a daily basis. with glittering eyes, one walks through the halls of the Palazzo discovering corners, beauty as well as exceptional artworks. Begs to question, who is this man that has managed to cast such a charm around us? who is this Maestro of Contemporary Art? what are his visions, his fears, his pride? He is definitely not an individual who likes to talk about himself, as any question with regard to his persona is countered immediately with information in relation to the Palazzo. Humble yet proud as exuberantly he discusses the economic success the Palazzo has had under his leadership; fundraising is going phenomenally well with only 20% of public monies remaining, the rest from 92

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Photo credit: alessandro Moggi

Marina is the eMbodiMent of unique. and this uniqueness is what will forever stand at the forefront of her accoMPlishMents

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Photo credit: Paolo canevari

stromboli iii (Volcano) 2002, black and white lambda print (Galleria Lia Rumma, Milan).

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Photo credit: Marco anelli

The artist is Present, video installation, 2010, New York. Below, Ulay/Marina Abramović aaa-aaa 1978, video, New York.

the cleaner, is the title of this retrosPective because Marina froM now on wishes to travel light, to cleanse her internal Past

private donations. 60-70 % of visitors are italian, but with the Palazzo strozzi’s success, it is starting to make a mark on a global measure and with the determination that stands behind this man, there is no doubt that this will be a case of -watch this space-. does arturo Galansino have a dream? yes, and it is quite simple; to improve on an international scale and to become even better. did we expect anything else? Becoming even better he is and it has. over the past 4 years, several events have been dedicated to contemporary artists. Various events are also being dedicated to female artists as trying to fill the gender gap is something that he finds important. Because if there is one thing that arturo definitely is, then it is fair. next in line, completely different and lesser known on a global scale is modernist Natalia Goncharova. experimental it may be but if one man can achieve the means to an end, then it is arturo. He may be reluctant to speak about himself but when asked about other exhibits, he shows his fairness, his enthusiasm for art and his incredibly gentle personality. Pablo Picasso and his sculptures at the moma, a retrospective of British painters at the Tate modern and an exhibit on Charles I held at the royal academy (an exhibition he helped plan in the beginning stages, and with whose result he is so pleased by) are mentioned by him with just the right kind of admiration and desire to show what a gentleman he really is. who other than a true gentleman to lead such a location as the Palazzo strozzi into the next phase. compliments from the general public are pouring in, social media has gone crazy. Humbly he states that he did not expect to realize a dream for the general public with his exhibits. with his unpresuming personality he explains that persons are commenting on the impact he is having on the city of florence in general. There is the sense that he is still not able to believe it himself. in his opinion, what he is doing for florence is purely done out of his personal persuasion that art needs to be accessible for everyone. interviewing arturo, we only receive a miniscule insight into the person that he truly is. italy’s maestro of contemporary art is a man that writes humility with a capital H. a man who encompasses the word gentleman. an individual with a vision, as well as a cavalier who placed a Palazzo in the City of the Renaissance on the map in the contemporary artworld, creating something exceptional. as any person we come across in life however, this gentleman too has fears. in arturo’s case, his greatest distress would be to organize an exhibition, that “they (the public) don’t getˮ. In the case of the Retrospective on Marina Abramović, without a doubt, “get it” they did. we are thus left with a conclusion that the only thing to do in this instance is to congratulate, to commend this incredible retrospective. subsequent to this, we are left with the feelings of longing and waiting, looking forward to the next chapter of arturo Galansino and the Palazzo strozzi in florence. 2018 winter solstice 97

Grain matter Bread is in the heart and soul of every real Italian. But it is getting very hard to find good quality. Here is a guide of where to buy it, taste it, make it and love it by Cristina Manfredi photography Guido Rizzuto 98

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“PeoPle

who

eat white bread have dreams”

diana Vreeland, fashion icon (1903-1989)

THere are many ways to spot an Italian. He usually dresses smartly, drinks a lot of espresso, still gesticulates a lot, but most importantly: he gets very nervous if he doesn’t get served bread with his meal. The thing is that since childhood, Italians have developed a strong relationship with bread. From the first bites given by their “Mamma”, to the almost endless versions of “La Merenda” (the afternoon snack Italians turned into a form of art, with the idea of bread mixed with whatever their culinary creativity suggests). each region, province, town, or village has its kind of bread which no low carb diet ever managed to eradicate from the table. The problem is that lately many local bakers gradually gave up, after supermarkets started baking and selling bread. and this not only means that the quality has dramatically changed, but also that Italians without their favourite bread are getting a little nervous... “In the past, you never heard about flour-intolerance, even if people probably ate more bread than today”, says Laura Lazzaroni, an Italian journalist and passionate bread lover who wrote a book, Altri grani altri pani, published by Guido Tommasi. Laura explains that it’s the quality of the flour that makes such a difference between one bread and the other. “To produce bread on a larger scale, the industry lo-

oked for a kind of flour which could be worked easily. and that meant forgetting all about those grains which agronomists, millers and bakers had been handing down from one generation to the next”, she adds. The flour coming from those grains is far more complicated to turn into bread, but the result is beyond imagination. “Once you try Bread with capital letters you realize how different it is”. To be honest, it takes time to understand if you are really tasting high-quality bread, made only with natural ingredients. The thing you will quickly learn is that superior bread is much easier to digest. But once you start tasting real Bread, then you will gradually pay attention to other details. “It’s just like wine, you smell it first. Bread’s aroma can tell a lot about it, if you can sense different notes it’s a good sign”, Lazzaroni says. “You should always start your tasting from the crumb, to check if it properly melts in your mouth. a crunchy crust is a good sign. and remember that it has to stay fresh for at least five days». You cannot buy superior bread anywhere, but there is a group of bakers working hard to still bring it to our tables. It costs more, but it’s a price people are happy to pay once they try it. In the following page you will find Lazzaroni’s favourite bread places in Milano and around Italy... 2018 winter solstice 99

Bread Forn

o Collettivo

“bread is the kiNg oF the table aNd all else is merelY the Court that surrouNds the kiNg. the CouNtries are the souP, the meat, the vegetables, the salad but bread is kiNg.”

alessandro longhin and davide martelli, the business duo behind the botanical Club cocktail bar already famous in milano, opened Forno Collettivo just a few months ago in the Porta venezia area. the place quickly gained a reputation for bread and raw wine (without sulphites). lazzaroni herself is a consultant, and for those who like to make their own bread, she recommends to go and bake it there. otherwise you can always try their signature bread, the s41. You can find them in via lecco 15, Milano.

nificio Italiano

in the heart of the Navigli area, there is a market hall where you will find a small booth with truly remarkable bread. the baker is giovanni miano who is sharing his passion with the chef giuseppe Zen, the founder of mangiari di strada, another top address for genuine street food. make sure you taste their “Pane di grano tenero”. address: mercato Comunale della darsena, Milano.

in italy

louis Bromfield, american noVelist (1896-1956)

Niko

Romito

“the three michelin stars chef Niko romito is probably doing the best bread in italy”, lazzaroni says. if you feel like experiencing his cuisine at its fullest, you should arrange a trip to his restaurant reale in Castel di Sangro, in abruzzo, where you can also try alt, romito’s version of a roadhouse. he is signing the menu of the Bulgari Hotels around the world, the three spazio bistro in Rome, and bomba, romito’s street food concept in Piazza XXv aprile, in Milano.

aurora Zancanaro comes from veneto, has a Chemistry degree and has been going through some significant baking experiences before opening le Polveri, her new small shop nearby sant’ambrogio. she does everything by herself, and she is also one of the very few women in this business. Zancani has a magic touch for flavoured bread. You can find her in via ausonio 7, Milano.

o lv

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eri

10 0

d rea

(in th

e rest of I

taly ...)

1. Panificio Moderno is definetely worth a trip to the small village of isera, near trento, where bread has been a family business since 1926. 2. davide sarti opened Forno Brisa in bologna in 2015: since then he kept growing, and is now one of the top names in the italian bread scene. 3. Forno Del Mastro in monza started in 2017, but the owner adriano del mastro has been in the bread world for a while, having worked at romito’s reale restaurant for eight years before focusing on the baking process.

vide Longoni

he comes from a family of bakers, and he is a pivotal figure for bread in milano. longoni was the first one to introduce the audience to the many stories related to top quality bread, and he is always looking for ancient grains and millers to work with. it’s hard to choose just one kind of his bread, he keeps testing different grains. address: via tiraboschi 19 and mercato del suffragio, both in Milano.

A display of some of the different types of grain that can be used for baking. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Finding ancient grains and the right millers to work with is one of the hardest tasksâ&#x20AC;?, says Davide Longoni, one of the pivotal figures for bread in Italy today.

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Fighting beyond the night Five nights of an unparalleled charity success-story. Set in five magnificent but diverse locations, with illustrious guests and support by superstar artists from around the globe. This constitutes Andrea Bocelliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fith edition of Celebrity Fight Night in Italy by Clementine Fitzgerald, based on text by Giorgio De Martino

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Photo credits: luca rossetti, stefano marinari, lorenzo montanelli, gudenschwager PhotograPhy

The incredible debut of â&#x20AC;&#x153;La Notte di Andrea Bocelliâ&#x20AC;?, in Verona. Left, the Andrea Bocelli Foundation with a group of StPhilomene students in Haiti.

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honors in his name with upmost grace and elegance. escorted by the executives of the Italian and American foundations involved, invitees received a welcome to this event-marathon of spectacular magnitude. Accompanied by the dulcet, euphonious notes of pianist Lola Astanova (from Uzbekistan) playing amongst other things Chopin, in addition to the melodious voices of Italian-American Pia Toscano (in her Italian debut) as well as singer-songwriter Brian McKnight, guests were bestowed with a setting that even the most seasoned charityattendees amidst them had rarely seen. There was a multitude of new faces and old friends; producer David Foster (part of CFN’s musical direction in Italy and dear friend of Andrea) and Reba McEntire (country singer never to have missed a single of CFN’s editions). Stars of show business were in abundance Katharine McPhee, Chris Tucker, Michael W. Smith, Kristin Chenoweth and Hollywood star Bo Derek with John Corbett. Melissa Peterman, held court as ever and interviewed all atendees to then end up, forming an impregnable duo with Reba McEntire before the evening led on to the after-party. Here, the entertainment was once again provided by The London Essentials, a British quintet that with their thrilling performances, set the tone for what ‘domani’ would bring. ‘domani’ took place in Porto Venere, located at the far eastern side of Liguria and known as the jewel within the “Gulf of Poets”. Surrounded by dramatic cliffs that disappear into the crystal-clear blue waters below, the dramatic colors of the landscape cradling little villages that inspired the likes of Byron, Shelley, Montale, lies the Church of San Pietro, built in 1277. This Gothic place of worship perched on a ledge at the end of the land, had been decorated with 1600 lanterns positioned methodically, illuminating the paths evocative of the Augustan and

Photo credits: luca rossetti, stefano marinari, lorenzo montanelli, gudenschwager PhotograPhy

“GoodNeSS, with which you have sided, produces miracles” Andrea Bocelli’s words following the immense success of the fifth edition of Celebrity Fight Night in Italy. His words didn’t stop at that, because what was accomplished during those five nights is unparalleled to any other charity success-story. “My first thought is of gratitude, then joy and also amazement, for the feat of such an ambitious, shared challenge; of a complex machine that was brought in with the grace, safety and lightness of an inspired and perfect mechanism. It’s true that when many have the same dream, those dreams really come true!” dreams most certainly came true those nights, as the event raised almost 1 million US dollars just through its charity auction organized on the last evening. These funds will go toward the “Break the Barriers” educational projects in Italy and Haiti. The children of Sarnano and Muccia will have their pre-, elementary and middle schools rebuilt (destroyed by the earthquake in 2016). 2550 students in Haiti are to be guaranteed access to education. 1/3 of other funds raised throughout CFN in Italy, net of expenses, will benefit the Muhammad Ali Parkinson Center in Phoenix. Starting off in Florence, guests were welcomed into the magnificence of the Four Seasons Hotel. Surrounded by frescoes and ornaments dating back five centuries, they found themselves in an ambiance that is incomparable in terms of history, art & design, notwithstanding a modern twist and state-of-theart amenities. The evening itself took place in the marvelous Giardino della Gherardesca, gardens that date back to the 15th century, providing visitors with paths amongst its statues and fountains or even a sojourn to its Ionic temple. Andrea Bocelli, himself engaged in rehearsals for next day’s show, was marvelously substituted by Veronica and Amos Bocelli, doing the

The magical fireworks in Porto Venere. Left, dinner at Palazzo Pitti, in Florence.

White Madonna traditions and permitting the 350 guests to arrive in style for the next extravaganza of the marathon. Nibbling on exquisite bites of oysters and mini mozzarellas, attendees were entertained by the Italian Navy band, followed-on by the Excellence orchestra (composed of young, talented musicians from around the globe) under the direction of Gianluca Marcianò. This magical framework also gave rise to the world premiere of Andrea’s newest album ‘Si’; 14 new songs, anticipated for 14 years and destined, to be replayed time again throughout the world. The evening was hosted by model, actress and ambassador of the Andrea Bocelli Foundation, Catrinel Marlon. The “If only” performance by Bocelli and Taiwanese star AMei was filmed to create a Chinese version of the song, a ‘hit’ in the east just a few days later. Josh Groban and Andrea then took to the stage together again, performing a perfect rendition of “We Will Meet once Again” (an unreleased song included in the album ‘Si’) to be succeeded by a performance of father and son. Matteo and Andrea sang “Fall on Me” from the album as well as the soundtrack to disney’s “The Nutcracker and the Four Realms”. A multitude of other melodies such as “Un’anima” as well as duets with Katharine McPhee, Colin Schachat, Josh Groban and Andrea concluded this evening of resplendence that, once again confirmed CFN’s path from art to solidarity, whilst lights illuminated the sea far beyond the paradise of Porto Venere. day three brought the guests to Tuscany’s Chianti countryside. Ferragamo’s Villa Le Rose, located on Michelangelo’s and Brunelleschi’s Florentine hills, opened its doors for this marvelous occasion. This majestic villa that was commissioned by Marchese Niccolò Antinori in the 15th Century, is located at the far end of a cypress-lined avenue on the southern hills of Flor-

ence, a mere 10 minutes from its center. Built in the renaissance, it includes opulent frescoed salons within its 1000m2 and is enveloped by 1200m2 gardens inside an 11-hectar park, inclusive of a small lake. Before dinner, guests were able to sample numerous varieties of champagne whilst applauding the speeches given by Sean Currie and Jimmy Walker (founder and tutelary of Celebrity Fight Night) followed by Stefano Aversa (Chairman of the Andrea Bocelli Foundation). Music, an exclusive show and a private concert by artists David Foster and Matteo Bocelli as well as Reba McEntire, Katharine McPhee, Michael W. Smith, Chris Tucker, Pia Toscano and Kristin Chenoweth (performing some of her greatest musical hits) created another evening of sheer delight. day 4 was a day about which guests will continue to reminisce long into the future. In the city of love, of Romeo and Juliette, home of belcanto, the evening was hosted at the Arena in Verona. The challenge created by the achievement of CFN’s 2017 event held at the Colosseum, was more than surmounted. The evening by the name “Notte di Andrea Bocelli” was built upon From the left, Andrea and Matteo Bocelli. Andrea Bocelli with Richard Gere. Morgan Freeman on stage at the Arena di Verona.

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gargantuan choreographies, sumptuous costumes and the aid of over 400 various artists. Sold out for months prior, it was broadcast the following day on Italian TV with a share of almost 25% and thus, a confirmation of its resounding success. The debut of the Notte in Verona took place in front of the Palazzo della Gran Guardia, a monumental building overlooking the square housing the amphitheater and location at which the Gala dinner for over 500 people was hosted. A red carpet that span the entire length of the square was lined by crowds applauding the illustrious guests; Richard Gere, Morgan Freemen, Catherine Deneuve, Gina Lollobrigida, Valeria Golino, Tony Renis, Javier Zanetti, Gianmarco Tognazzi, Antonella Clerici… The Arena performances commenced with Milly Carlucci’s (exceptional presenter and friend of the Bocelli family) introduction of Andrea Bocelli. Surrounded by the Fire department that worked tirelessly for days upon the collapse of the bridge in Genoa, Andrea dedicated “e lucevan le stelle” from Puccini’s Tosca to the victims of this horrific accident. He thereafter continued-on with gratefulness and heartfelt love, obvious to all present; his extraordinary voice, combined with the phenomenal ones of Aida Garifullina, Leo Nucci and Alberto Gazale, supported by the orchestra and chorus culminated in a night of spectacular musical achievement. Richard Gere (a fellow philanthropist) gave an ardent speech, and Morgan Freeman the actor, recited a piece from “Invictus” (Nelson Mandela Film). Surrounded by hundreds of students from Sarnano and Muccia, there was an incredible succession of personalities on stage including Luisa Ranieri, Michele Placido, Valeria Golino, Flavio Insinna and Catherine Deneuve. This series of spectacular moments continued with the triumphant march of Aida, the entr’acte from Carmen, aided by eight horses and 300 extras to then be succeeded by the performance of Ukrainian ballet superstar, Sergei Polunin. Rounding off the evening, as guests watched with tears in their eyes, the conclusion and traditional jubilation; “Brindisi” from Verdi’s La Traviata pursued Andrea’s moving words, that included a tribute to his wife Veronica; “The eminence Grise who made this evening happen. Without her, all this would not have been possible”. Last but not least, day 5 brought the conclusion of charitable evenings back to Florence. At the Palazzo Pitti, center of Florence’s public and private Court life, donors were treated to a collection of 40 cars (all from between 1920 to 1970) that greeted them upon their arrival on the Pitti square. A sophisticated aperitif followed, and as the Florentine sun set, the atmosphere in the courtyard of this magnificent palazzo designed by Bartolomeo Ammannati in the 16th Century, was one of sheer delight and anticipation. Andrea Bocelli and his artistic friends did not disappoint, delivering another amazing performance, beginning with Ilaria Della Bidia onstage, introducing the guests and alternating between presenter and singer. Then there was music by Michael W. Smith, Pia Toscano, Kristin Chenoweth, Caroline Campbell, Katharine McPhee, Reba McEntire, Brian McKnight and of course Andrea Bocelli. He took to the stage with his wife Veronica followed by dancing to the sound of DJ Mirko Coppola. Many toasts, farewells, hugs and emotional tears brought down the curtain on the 5th edition of Celebrity Fight Night in Italy. In essence, they were nights that came with dreams and angels. Remains to say, that we look forward to its 6th edition in 2019, questioning how this marathon miracle could possibly be topped. one thing however is a certainty, if anyone can achieve this, then it is Andrea and Veronica Bocelli… 106

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Photo credits: luca rossetti, stefano marinari, lorenzo montanelli, gudenschwager PhotograPhy

Inside the Arena of Verona for the spectacular night “La notte di Bocelli”.

“without my wife veronica, all this would not have been Possibile” andrea bocelli

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Coffee: fast

(competitive)

and furious

Deeply rooted in tradition. Romantic. Unique. This is not only the story of Espresso (the Italian coffee that rules the world), but also that of the rivalry between Bialetti and Alessi, two tycoons of design by Gianluca Pezzi

The silhouette of the iconic coffee machine La Cupola, designed by Aldo Rossi for Alessi, in 1988. On the opposite page, a patchwork of the most famous Moka advertising from the 50â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s and 60â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s. 2018 winter solstice 109

The same minimalist design seems to be the fil rouge between this Moka machine by Bialetti from the 50â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s, and its contemporary version (on the right).

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the ability to deal with people is as purchasable a commodity as sugar or coffee and i will pay more for that ability than for any other under the sun john d. rockefeller industrialist and philanthropist

A hAlf-fIllED cUp ToppED By A flUffy cREAm, an intense aroma, one of the most pleasurable rituals. That’s Espresso, the magic word that unlocks the door to a world of stories and traditions around the globe. In Italy it is synonymous of coffee: if you order “un caffè”, you will be served “an Espresso”. for Italians, it is also considered a way to socialize. If we consider how little it costs – only 1 Euro at the bar counter – it is easy to understand why offering it is seen as a friendly gesture, something one can freely accept or decline without feeling guilty or uneasy. Millions of cups are served every day in Italy. The bartenders know they must be fast, as there’s nothing worse than waiting for more than 30 seconds. During rush hour, the bar counter becomes a replica of the Stock Exchange’s Trading Hall, with orders received in rapid sequence and even more rapidly delivered in all the different variations: strong black, 2018 winter solstice 111

On this page, from the top, two drawings of the Espresso coffee maker La Cupola, by Aldo Rossi for Alessi, The third drawing is another best seller by the same designer, the Coffee maker La Conica. On the opposite page, a sketch dated 1978 of the still existing and iconic Espresso coffee maker with induction, designed by Richard Sapper for Alessi.

lungo (or weak black), double, macchiato (with a dash of milk or cream), or even with a shot of spirits such as Schnapps or Sambuca, the so called: caffé corretto. But how much coffee do Italians drink? Surprisingly not as much as other nations. The Scandinavians are in first place, and we must scroll down the list to twelfth place to find the Italians. how is it possible? The answer is simple: you don’t need a huge amount of coffee to make a good Espresso, and as a consequence a cup contains less caffeine than one of drip coffee. however, do not let yourself be tricked by the amount of liquid: Espresso contains more caffeine per volume unit, but the total amount of caffeine is lower because the portion is smaller. What then is the difference between a drip and an Espresso? Normally, drip coffee is obtained through the percolation of water that – thanks to gravity – simply falls drop by drop. Whereas to prepare an Espresso, water is pushed at high pressure – nowdays approximately at 9 atmospheres – to rapidly obtain a creamy and robust drink (we must not forget that the word Espresso literally means fast). If today we need only wait 30 seconds to taste una tazzina (a cup of coffee), it is thanks to Angelo Moriondo, who in 1884 invented the first Espresso machine in Turin. curiously enough however, the industrial production for the use in horeca started only in 1905 in milan, when Desiderio Pavoni bought the patent and founded the company that still bears his name. But the real turning point arrived when Espresso started to be consumed not only in bars or restaurants but also in the confines of the private home. This dates back to 1933, the year when mass consumption of coffee begun. Accreditation here goes to another piedmontese engineer, Alfonso Bialetti, also known as the father of the Moka Express, a simple but ingenious machine in which water is heated in a little boiler up to a temperature of 90° degrees. Subsequently, internal pressure then pushes the water through a filter and into a funnel where it is finally transformed into that hot, black coffee which we all crave for. If you ask an Italian for advice on how to make a good coffee with the moka at home, you will be given these three simple rules: 1. make at least five test coffees to be thrown out before sipping your first cup (the machine needs to be used or “broken in”, and this applies to both if the machine is new or if it hasn’t been used for a while). 2. Simply wash the machine with water, do not use any detergent, it will only make coffee taste chemical. 3. fill the water heater up to the valve and never-ever press the coffee into the filter. But why do Italians love the moka machine? Because it’s practical, simple to use and its maintenance is easy. The real reason however is romantic and deeply rooted in tradition, almost 11 2

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a leaf fluttered in through the window this morning, as if supported by the rays of the sun, a bird settled on the fire escape, joy in the task of coffee, joy accompanied me as i walked anaĂ?s nin novelist

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On the left, some of the most famous Moka advertising campaigns that appeared in the 50’s and 60’s in Italian magazines. On this page, the testimonial of Moka (invented by the Italian engineer Alfonso Bialetti), gives instructions on how to make coffee at home.

way too much coffee. but if it weren’t for the coffee, i’d have no identifiable personality whatsoever david letterman television host

nostalgic, and somewhat similar to the involuntary memory evocated by “La madelaine de Marcel Proust”. The truth is that moka produces a unique sound and a distinctive aroma. Senses that have been a part of Italian tradition for generations, recalling memories of daily life such as early morning breakfasts or Sunday lunches with the whole family. A cup of coffee will cajole many family secrets to be revealed. for this reason, an Italian home is incomplete without a Moka machine, a trend that has today spread well beyond national borders. Globally the moka machine is recognized as a small item of perfect design, an object of desire one needs in a home, and that has found its place amongst permanent collections of both the Triennale Design Museum in milan as well as the MoMa in New york. The only problem one could potentially see, is that its perfection in terms of form and material has caused it to remain unchanged for almost 85 years. could it 2018 winter solstice 115

even be possible to improve a virtually quintessential object like the Bialetti’s moka machine? This question was finally answered by German designer, Richard Sapper, a deep connoisseur of the Italian lifestyle, in collaboration with the Italian, omegna based, company Alessi. omegna, a small town in piedmont is also home to Bialetti (there is a sort of competitive design-derby between Bialetti and Alessi that recalls far more aggressive Italian industrial battles, such as the one between the automotive emperors Enzo ferrari and ferruccio lamborghini). In jount venture, Richard Sapper and Alessi were able to find the perfect match between tradition and innovation. Whereas Bialetti specialized in aluminum for its productions, Alessi proceeded to use steel and thus created the “Caffettiera 9090”, entirely made out of 18/10 stainless steel. Its inside was made of frosted steel, and all components not subject to wear and tear such as its handles, made of cast iron (unlike Bialetti’s plastic that could potentially melt at high temperature). In addition and contrary to the Bialetti moka that relied on its safety valve to minimize the risk of pressure excess, the Alessi version contained a complex locking system that would release the pressure before reaching dangerous levels). furthermore, a patented opening system allowed the exact dosage for each “tazzina” as well as a practical adaptor that chose and controlled the intensity of the coffee. In other words, this good and healthy industrial competition resulted in the creation of a second object of Italian desire: the 9090 by Alessi. The 9090 not only won the prestigious Compasso d’Oro Award in 1979 but is also the second perfect coffee machine on display at the MoMa in New York.

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Below, a drawing of coffee maker La Pulcina made by designer Michele de Lucchi. On the opposite page clockwise from the right, four other best sellers by Alessi: La Cupola (by Aldo Rossi), Moka Alessi (designed by Alessandro Mendini), La Conica (designed by Aldo Rossi), and the Espresso coffee maker Ossidiana (by designer Mario Trimarchi) .

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in the

land of Insubria It is the historic-geographic area between the Italian Lombardy and the Swiss Canton of Ticino. Two areas connected through culture, business, language and important economic growth. We have spoken about this area with the Swiss Ambassador in Rome Giancarlo Kessler, the Swiss General Consul in Milano Fèlix Baumann, with the historians Giuseppe Reguzzoni and Andrea Mascetti, and in an exclusive interview with the Major of Lugano Marco Borradori by Luca Steinmann

When The hIGh Speed TRAIn ConneCTInG MILAn WITh LuGAno crosses the Swiss-Italian border at Chiasso you can see the blue lake on the left and the green mountains on the right. While the architecture on the two sides is slightly different - the Swiss buildings being much more rational than the Italian ones - no differences can be seen in the nature nor in the language and dialect of the local people. Although belonging to two different nations, the Italian region of Lombardy and the Swiss Canton of Ticino share the same topography, the same history and many challenges to face in the future. “Both regions belong to the same historic-geographic area: Insubria,” explains Giuseppe Reguzzoni, a historian working at the Catholic university of Milan. “Insubria is an ancient region that comprises what was formerly the Duchy of Milan, including present-day Ticino, Lombardy and eastern piedmont. The Roman historian Titus Livius carefully describes how its inhabitants used to share the same cultural roots. Today people speak the same language, Italian, as well as dialects, on both sides of the border”. Its name comes from the Insubres, a Celtic population that settled in this area around 600 BC. Although Insubria has been split into different nations since 1515 and is still divided between Italy and Switzerland, the strong influence left by its original inhabitants persists to this day and is a bridge between the two countries and their economies. The importance of the Insubrian heritage in connecting Italy and Switzerland is well expressed by Giancarlo Kessler, the Swiss Ambassador in Rome. “The two countries share one common language and partly the same culture and history”, thus making Switzerland “a natural partner” for Italy. With a small domestic market and a long history of capital surplus, Switzerland has chosen to develop its economic activities outside its borders. It is therefore no surprise that it has made significant investments in Italy, which provide the necessary 118

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skills, a large internal market and access to other foreign markets. Switzerland's direct investments in Italy amount to 15 billion euros, employing around 90.000 Italians, while Italy is Switzerland's fifth biggest exporter of services. Italy has gained over 30 billion euros through trade between the two countries in the past 17 years, perfectly demonstrating how the strong economical crises and the deep political tensions that affected the “Belpaese” in the last few years didn't however damage its ties with its helvetian neighbour. The bilateral relations between the two governments keep on being excellent Andrea Mascetti and have been strengthened by recent financial and sector-based agreements that show both sides' will have to reinforce their connections even more to offer a favourable trade platform to investors. The heart of the economical, political and cultural exchanges between the two nations is the Insubrian region. This is not only due to their shared roots and extensive border - the vastest for both countries - but also for the complementarity between the most dynamic cities of the respective bordering regions: Milan for Lombardy and Lugano for Ticino. Milan is the capital of Lombardy, the second largest Italian city, the driving force of the regional and national economy and the most competitive industrial and financial platform, comparable with London, Frankfurt, Singapore and new York. despite the economical crises of the last 10 years, this city was able to attract a large number of investments that partly changed the appearance of all its metropolitan area. The success of the 2015 Expo contributed to making Milan the first candidate to become europe's most important financial hub after Brexit. “We have a great interest in the success of Milan” explains the Swiss General Giuseppe Reguzzoni Consul in Milan Félix Baumann, sitting at a table of the Swiss Corner, one of the best known Milanese bars located on the ground floor of the same building as the Consulate. “northern Italy is historically the natural outlet for Swiss trade and companies. A strong and stable Lombard economy is in the interest of Switzerland and especially of Ticino”. About half of the commercial exchange between Italy and Switzerland involves the bordering regions and 34% of it is with Lombardy. Many of the Swiss investments are concentrated in Milan, where businessmen are attracted by its excellence in different fields: manufacturing industry, universities, fashion, design, and international exhibitions such as the well-known Salone del Mobile. This contributes to creating synergies and opportunities between Milanese and Swiss enterprises, making Insubria one of the most dynamic and competitive regions in the world. The Swiss-Italian turnover will probably keep on growing. The two states established a strategy to strengthen the connections between northern Italy and Switzerland, thus transforming the Insubrian region into the crossroad between the Mediterranean and central europe. The Swiss Corner bar is very close to the Milan Central railway station, from where dozens of high speed trains depart to the north daily, reaching Chiasso in less than 40 minutes and then continuing on their trip to central europe. The strengthening of this flat route throuFèlix Baumann gh the Alps will soon connect Milan with Zurich in a mere 3 hours. Its extension to the Italian port of Genoa, which is currently being studied, would create a strategic corridor for commodities from the Mediterranean to Germany. The reinforcement of the connections between Italy and Switzerland will also facilitate tourists' access to the Insubrian landscapes. despite its industrial importance, this region still preserves an uncontaminated nature, where the high mountains look on both countries and where boats can sail through Lake Maggiore and Lake Lugano, whose coasts are shared by the two nations. The Insubrian natural and cultural heritage is enhanced by different state and non-governmental associations. The Associazione Culturale Terra Insubre is one of the most active in researching about local history and archaeology, as well as in preserving local nature, traditions, and culinary arts. having headquarters both on the Swiss and Italian side, Giancarlo Kessler Terra Insubre facilitates the dialogue between the Lombard and the Ticinese institutions. The links between the two sides are also indeed political. “The president of Lombardy Attilio Fontana has very good connections with the institutions of Ticino” explains Andrea Mascetti, a well-known lawyer and expert of the historical and institutional relations of Insubria, “and the two respective major parties, Lega dei Ticinesi and the Italian Lega Nord, have had friendly and stable relations for many years”. The political stability contributes in making Insubria one of the most attractive platforms for investors and tourists from all over the world. 120

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“MILAN AND LUGANO SHARE THE SAME VOCATION. OUR MUTUAL SUCCESS IS AN OPPORTUNITY FOR BOTH” MARCO BORRADORI, MAJOR OF LUGANO

Major Borradori, Lugano is Europe’s gateway to the Mediterranean and the Mediterranean’s window to Europe. Is this the secret of its success? This is one of the main reasons. our strategic position made our city a good platform for cultural and business exchange. Lugano is where the German-speaking world meets the Italian culture, where the South mixes with the north, where the Mediterranean lifestyle fuses with Middle-european skills. We are the crossroad between Milan and Zurich, two of the most dynamic metropoles of europe. Geography contributed to making our city a place where ideas and opportunities meet, where skilled people from all over the world come together. But geography alone is not sufficient and we are today facing new challenges. Which challenges? Alptransit, the new railway currently being built that will connect Milan and Zurich in three hours, is a great opportunity that carries for Lugano the risk of being bypassed and not further being considered as such an important crossroad point. Apart from this, the new railways will connect Lugano with Geneva and Zurich in less that two hours, meaning that many Swiss tourists might decide to visit our city without stopping here to overnight. That could damage the business of our hotels and that’s why it is now necessary to attract the tourists by other means. For this reason we are giving value to the extraordinary nature of our region, we are building new hospitality infrastructures and we are renewing out train station and our funicular railway. In addition, we are investing a lot in the cultural, artistic and nightlife of our city, such as in theaters and festivals. The Lac, our cultural center opened in 2015, is very active and is attracting many people from around the world. We want our city to be a thriving cultural hub. Furthermore, Lugano is an excellent platform for political dialogues that attract international

stakeholders and decision makers. Last ving Lugano an added value compared August, for instance, we hosted the first to Zurich or Geneva. Major Sala says edition of the Middle East Mediterra- that talking to Lugano means talking nean Freethinking Platform, that will to the heart of Switzerland. take place again next summer. This event How important is the success of the is organized by uSI, our local university, Lombard economy for Ticino? aims to create and facilitate the dialogue Very important both for our economy between young political protagonists of and for the solution of the problems the MeA region. This shows how our that Lombardy and Ticino share. The city and our universities can concretely most famous one is about the thoucontribute to finding solutions for issues sands of crossborder-commuters that that are apparently far away. every day travel from Italy to Ticino to Lugano and Milan are two close indu- work. The stronger the Lombard ecostrial and financial cities. nomy, the less is the risk Despite that, they are not to create a wage slump in The Major of Lugano, considered as competitors. Switzerland. Marco Borradori, How is it possible? Which are the future chalphotographed in front Their very different size lenges for Lugano? of Lake Lugano. enables the two cities not our main goal for the to be competitive but comnext few years is to give plementary. I regularly visit Milan and I a precise identity to our city and to our was recently talking to major Giusep- brand. We are working on the renovape Sala. We both agree that Milan and tion of our station and of our lakeside, Lugano share the same vocation and the building new sport and touristic areas. same enterprising spirit and that our mu- We want to give more opportunities to tual success is an opportunity for both. our tourists without damaging the quano other Swiss city is so dynamic, gi- lity that we already offer them.

Tailor-made millennials

The generation born between 1991 and 2000 has been completely (and unexpectedly) seduced by the world of classic menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s tailoring. But what does it really expect from a suit? Heritage, quality, values, madness and a lot more... by Giuseppe Ceccarelli

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THe Millennials, otherwise known as Generation Y, are the players in the famous cultural earthquake that has revolutionized not only the world of fashion but also, unexpectedly, that of classic formal clothing of a tailored nature. However, although we are at the beginning of this generation with its, through the networks, genetically modified Dna (YouTubers, fashion bloggers and instagrammers, all registered as born between 1991 and 2000), they were immediately welcomed by the fashion world. Their potential purchasing power cleverly perceived and classic men’s tailoring brands initially trembling, believing they could not compete. in reality, the entire menswear market in recent years has consolidated, with a growth projection that will take it (according to euromonitor international) into 2020 with a turnover of 33 billion dollars, that is 4 billion more than the

last recording in 2015. Despite the amongst the most sought after by the Millennials’ having been born at the Millennials for “jackets and suits”. height of the stylistic amalgamation of such as Lanieri, the first italian ecasual fashion and all of its offshoots, commerce completely dedicated to the truth is, that they are increasingly men’s fashion, and able to offer a fascinated by the tailoring world and made-to-measure service entirely onthat they not only, do not consider it line. Created in 2013 by two young obsolete but even envisage it as ex- engineers from Biella, Simone Maggi tremely cool. and Riccardo SchiavotThe Millennials, more to, fabrics of the highest Above, two jackets by than their fathers, like quality from Zegna, CerMaurizio Miri, known the concept of value that ruti, Reda and loro Piana as the enfant prodige emanates from tailorare used. The Millennials of Italian men’s clothing ing brands through their enjoy being able to conand one of Millennials’ handmade quality, the nect to their site, to have favourite designers. look of the updated clasan online style advisor sical style or the seduc(like a tailor but in digital tion of a bespoke suit, especially version who, thanks to an algorithm if created by small brands. in other devised by the two founders, creates words, the Millennials like wearing a garment tailored to the customer’s what is exceptional, both for its qual- tastes), and then, to have it all delivity as its uniqueness. ered home in 4-5 weeks. Within this context, some small italian Differently the path of the Doppia AA brands of young bespoke masters are label, arising out of a friendship be2018 winter solstice 123

Millennial entrepreneurs who dress tailor-made

3 5

1. Daniel Ek (founder of Spotify) 2. Evan Sharp (co-founder of Pinterest) 3. Gerard Adams (co-founder of Elite Daily) 4. David Karp (founder of Tumblr) 5. Adam Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Angelo (chief executive officer of Quora). 6. Matthew Mullenweg (web developer and man behind the software WordPress) 7. Brian Chesky (co-founder of Airbnb).

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tween the italian Alain Fracassi and the spaniard Albert Carreras. This duo started with the thought that all the Millennial’s should be classed as the new Homo Elegans. This however without losing sight of the fact that by nature, he is much more international and thus loves to buy products that are evocative, but not necessarily related to a single background. “The style of a man is the sum of something that is observed, learned and loved by traveling the world far and wide,” says albert Carreras, who has combined the cross generation with creativity and quality as the codes for this label, creating a madeto-measure that begins with historic taste and long ago savoir-faire but is mixed with fashion-flair and tailoring details. almost as if it were a kind of time-machine, capable of transforming fathers’ suit and even grandfathers into a work of art for that new young Homo Elegans called Millenial. Desecrating, pragmatic, almost on the edge of madness is on the other hand the style of another of the small labels preferred by the Millennials: that of Maurizio Miri, an ‘enfant prodige’ of italian men’s clothing. He immediately attempted to update the codes and styles of the men’s wardrobe. His extravagant and perfectly-cut jackets reflect a free spirit, very dear to the Millennials, as well as a sense of creative freedom. The kind that does not accept strict, pre-established codes. “a jacket can tell endless stories, is absolutely the item of clothing most difficult to produce and the one with the most manual phases. i don’t know why the Millennials love my creations; perhaps because they perceive the emotional nuances i put into each

Collar styles Penny Collar Button Down

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garment. i work obsessively on the details, but above all, i always try to put the power of my creativity into the service of others”, says Miri. last but not least is Santillo 1970, a neapolitan shirt maker that moves more in the groove of tradition but that has managed to appeal to the Millennials for his quality and the love, that young members of the santillo family put into the upkeep and conservation of tradition. “We immediately understood that the next generation has gone almost purely digital, and that tailoring had to change its modus operandi to convey its peculiarities through the new media. We try to do this, to convey the culture of the handmade and beautiful with the taste of Renaissance that has always set us apart, the one in which the old and the contemporary are blended. i believe that today the user is much more informed and this is why he wants to understand the differences. The Millennials also come to us as they are attracted to our familyrun business. They know that we will have a unique piece, recognizable but not flashy, a shirt that reflects not only the mastery of the garment itself, but also the family values and ethics that we have always devoted ourselves to”, states Gennaro Santillo. after all, quality never goes out of fashion and even the classic can appeal to the super young by virtue of style crossing, the one which allows you to now shamelessly mix a neapolitan tailored shirt, an extravagant tailored jacket, a suit made of precious fabrics with a pair of latest generation sneakers. Dear tailors, now the third millennium doesn’t scare you anymore, does it?

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IRAN

CHI

KINGDOM

IRAN

T ED

TURKEY

U NI

by Roberto Pucciano CEO of Anchorage Group

UNITED KINGDOM As London and Brussels head into the home stretch of Brexit negotiations, the prickly issue of what to do with regard the avoidance of a hard-Irish border remains.Talks seemed to reach a breakthrough in October - with reports emerging that 95% of the deal had been agreed - but British Prime Minister Theresa May has been unable to forge an agreement within her cabinet with regard to a “backstop” that would be put into place, if a UK-EU trade accord is not reached by the time the divorce takes place on March 29, 2019. Whilst some in her Conservative Party seem happy with the option of temporarily remaining within the EU’s customs union, the leave campaigners in the House of Commons fear it will hamper Britain’s ability to forge its own foreign trade deals, particularly with its Commonwealth trading partners. Regardless, May has kept a busy schedule and continues her meetings with European heads-of-state, with the continental bloc apparently looking for an end to the Irish border impasse the second week of November so that a deal can be enforced by the end of the month. Still, previous interim deadlines have been missed, and the EU summit late this month had to be cancelled because of the delays. What further complicates matters is the insistence, by someTory Eurosceptics as well as the Northern Irish DUP party – which props up May’s minority government – that any legal advice on the proposed border agreement, be made entirely public before a vote. The uncertainty has also been reflected in the British pound’s erratic movements coupled with recent European Commission forecasts showing that the UK will join Italy next year as the slowest-growing economy in the EU, even if a “soft” Brexit is reached. At the same time, a call for a new referendum by a grouping of British heads of business threatens to polarize the country even further.

CHINA

Last week, US President Donald Trump followed up his May withdrawal from the Iran nuclear deal, with the re-imposition of far more biting economic sanctions on the country. Tehran’s oil and banking sectors look set to suffer the most, as investors flee and financial as well as insurance intermediaries close off transactions with the Islamic Republic, despite a special EU, non-dollar-based, mechanism attempting to shield firms doing business with Iran from Washington’s reprisals. While the Trump administration has essentially decoupled sanctions from Iran’s nuclear commitments - in part a tacit form of recognition of the international community’s repeated confirmations that Tehran is abiding by them - it has renewed their use as a stick against Iran’s ballistic missile program, and its support of proxies across the Middle East, from Hezbollah in Lebanon and Syria to the Houthis in Yemen. This new round of sanctions will undoubtedly hit Iran’s people and theocratic rulers hard causing a drudging recession, but their effects seem to already be assuaged by the oil import waivers Washington has begrudgingly granted to Tehran’s biggest energy importers - China, India, South Korea, Japan, and four others which, in total, account for threequarters of the country’s oil exports - to keep crude prices from spiking. Still, the fact that Brent oil futures continue to trade at above $70 a barrel, means Iranian President Hassan Rouhani’s government has a bit more breathing room than previously planned, and thus possibly enough to keep the struggling economy afloat and to weather the sanctions, despite inflation projected to reach 34% in 2019. Nonetheless, Rouhani may not be able to hide the growing division between reformists and more conservative figures in his cabinet, nor the dissent within the ranks of the Shia clerical hierarchy itself, with a prominent Ayatollah (with revolutionary credentials) recently rebuked by the head of Iran’s Assembly of Experts, Mohammad Yazdi, for his efforts at fostering political reconciliation.

China’s heads of foreign policy and defence, Yang Jiechi and Wei Fenghe, recently met their American counterparts in Beijing for a wide-range of talks that had been postponed for another month, after yet another serious dispute involving a close-call between Chinese and American naval vessels that nearly collided. The meeting came amidst the backdrop of rising trade tensions between the world’s two biggest economies that has seen the tariffs on hundreds of millions of dollars of goods levied, going each way and just days after the Trump administration renewed accusations that Beijing was violating the terms of the 2015 cyber-theft accord with Washington. The real test of China’s ability to play hardball with the US, will take place at the end of the month between Trump and China’s President Xi Jinping at the G20 summit in Argentina, where the two leaders look set to bring up thorny issues such as talks with North Korea, China’s human rights record (particularly regarding its Uyghur detention camps in its restive Xinjiang province), and the cooperation between Afghanistan and Iran. China may be hoping for a concession or two to help boost its economy, which has seen domestic demand and manufacturing activity cool down and the Renminbi continue to weaken. In return, it may double down on its pledge to boost imports - a move that would help address complaints about its trade surplus with Western countries along with unfair trade and investment practices. However, concerns with Beijing’s growing assertiveness linger, particularly due to the detainment in early October of Interpol president Meng Hongwei as well as China’s unabashed building of artificial, militarily fortified islands in maritime territories claimed by several Asian countries. Both countries fear that an absence of “rules of the game” in the South China Sea would bring with it the risk, that a naval mishap could quickly transform into a more violent confrontation. 126

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TURKEY For the last two months, Turkish President Recep Tayyip Erdogan has relished his role championing the investigation into the gruesome killing of Saudi journalist and dissident Jamal Khashoggi in Saudi Arabia’s Istanbul Consulate. Whilst his long-awaited comments to Parliament in late October did not turn out to be the exposé many were hoping for, his administration’s gradual but consistent leaks to the press and consultations with Western intelligence chiefs have been crucial in ramping up the pressure on Saudi Crown Prince Mohammed bin Salman. This has all occurred even though Erdogan has a poor Human Rights record, including the fact that Ankara ranks new the bottom of the World Press Freedom Index, and his purge and jailing of tens of thousands of followers of his erstwhile ally and current US-based Islamist opponent, Fethullah Gulen, is very much ongoing. The affair has marked a remarkable rapprochement with US President Donald Trump, less than two months after he doubled tariffs on the Anatolian nation’s exports of steel and aluminium, a move which within hours depreciated the already-reeling Turkish lira by 20%. The tariffs themselves came not long after Washington’s objections to Turkey acquiring a Russian-made missile defence system that could expose weaknesses in US aircrafts. Regardless, October marked the official thawing of relations when a Turkish court convicted jailed American pastor Andrew Brunson of aiding terrorism, but then abruptly releasing him for time served, an act which had long been on Trump’s wish list. Erdogan also won some concessions from Washington, including joint US-Turkey patrols in northern Syria and a million-dollar reward for information leading to the capture of three top Kurdish militants. Although these developments have helped calm investors’ frayed nerves and rebuffed a budding currency crisis that has seen the lira slide 30% against the US dollar, the finance ministry’s attempt at a fiscal stimulus, despite the central bank’s fight to shore up the currency, have renewed projections for a prolonged economic contraction.

British actor Charlie Chaplin in the political satire commedy film “The Great Dictator”(1940).

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Ob j e c t of

desire By Richard Hughes

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Globally renowned for his one-of-a-kind and recordbreaking watches Jacob & Co. pushes the boundaries with the introduction of this latest “grand complication” timepiece, the Twin Turbo Furious. Unveiled at the baselworld International watch and Jewellery Fair in Switzerland, last March, this iconic watch limited to just 18 pieces, boasts an intricate combination of a twin accelerated triple axis sequential tourbillon, a minute repeater and a monopusher chronograph. The tourbillons fly their courses at a rhythm of one rotation in 24 seconds on the first axis, in 8 seconds on the second, and in 30 seconds on the third. embodying the Swiss House’s determination to always seek new solutions the Twin Turbo Furious, is also equipped with a “reference time” indicator that offers instant reading inspired by the timekeeping panels once used in motor racing.

THE MOON IS WA XING, TOMORROW WILL BE THE RIGHT TIME TO PRUNE THE VINES.

BY WA X I N G M O O N ,

T H E V I N E S A R E S T R O N G E R , B U T T H E Y L O S E T H E I R V I G O R W H E N T H E M O O N I S W A N I N G . T O P R U N E AT T H E P E R F E C T T I M E , K E E P A N E Y E O N T H E M O O N . L A D I F F Ã&#x2030; R E N C E C R I S TA L .

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