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• Returning to Craftsman architecture • Teen turns to antique tractor restoration • Hungry? Take ‘The Challenge’ at Lawdog’s
[596] life in the helena area
spring/summer 2011
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Volunteer!
Clean out your garages, storage sheds, basement or your home from unused items. Remember, what you no longer need could be essen al to someone else’s existence. One person’s trash is another persons treasure. Pick up available Monday through Friday, Evening pick ups upon special request. We will also pick up at your place of employment... or, simply drive around the back of the building for our friendly dock staff to help you unload.
Each year hundreds of volunteers help run our thri store with numerous jobs and tasks. In 2010 calendar year, we received help from over 900 volunteers from various agencies, groups and individuals with hours totalling over 15,500! THANK YOU TO ALL OUR VOLUNTEERS! Consider volunteers as a group project, a family venture or simply give back to the community. Our dedicated staff will help you find that right job or task to help us run the GOOD SAMARITAN THRIFT STORE VOLUNTEER TODAY
Good Samaritan St�le Show OCTOBER 2011 Moms, Dads, Brothers, Sisters, Comfort Foods, Evenings on the Front Porch, Lemonade Stands, Baseball in the streets, Family BBQ’s, Thanksgiving, Christmas and Easter at Grandma’s, Cakewalks and more is just part of what the 2011 Style Show is about!
Please help us make this event memorable... Plea collect your favorite family recipes and e-mail colle them to Julee Kendall at julee@goodsamministries.org Keep watching for further clues on this years show. —I’ll Love you forever, I’ll Like you for always… Good Samaritan Ministries promotes Catholic Social Teachings to support family life in our communities, enhance 3067 N. Montana Ave. human dignity and to promote common good with a Helena, MT 59601 perpetual option for the poor. We provide services to meet the physical health, social, emotional, and spiritual needs of individuals and families of all faiths.
406.442.0780
Randy Rickman publisher Butch Larcombe editor Sheila Habeck art director Eliza Wiley photo editor Tonda Meyer advertising manager Shawna Swanz special projects manager contributors Dylan Brown Eve Byron John Doran Marga Lincoln Alana Listoe Pete Nowakowski Peggy O’Neill Sanjay Talwani
[contents] editor’s note 6 food & drink Take “The Challenge” at Lawdog’s Saloon 8 homes Helena enjoying a revival of Craftsman homes 12 gear Today’s hats have both a form and a function 18 features Is a flatwater kayak in your future? Check out these options 20 Teen specializes in restoring antique tractors 26 Local actors remember the Old Brewery Theatre and its director 32 Head out on the highway: The area’s best motorcycle rides 36
cover photo
7 reasons why Helena Farmers Market is the place to be on Saturday 42
A kayaker paddles across Spring Meadow Lake.
my office A visit with real estate developer Alan Nicholson 44
by Eliza Wiley
laughs chance gulch 44
life in the helena area
[596]
[editor’s note]
I
It’s spring, at least technically. The time is upon us to shake off the cold and embrace the joys of the warmer months in the Helena area. The long evenings of spring and early summer are a great time for a walk in Helena’s tree-lined neighborhoods, where one is likely, at least in the central section of town, to pass by a well-tended Craftsman home. As freelance writer and photographer Ginny Emery tells us, those simple, solid homes represent the architecture of a building boom in the years after World War I. And after many decades, Craftsman and bungalow homes are finding a new popularity, scattered among Helena’s existing neighborhoods and in new developments at the edge of the city. Check out Emery’s work on page 12. Another great pastime on a late-spring evening? Throwing a kayak on the car and heading for the water. Whether it’s the Missouri, Spring Meadow Lake or Canyon Ferry, kayaks are an excellent mode of transportation. “It’s absolutely the best way to exercise and have fun at the same time,” enthusiast Becky Brandborg told writer Eve Byron. Local stores have them in all shapes and sizes and demand is strong. “With the Missouri running through our backyard, flatwater kayaking is huge in Helena,” says Damon Peters of Montana Outdoor Sports. Paddle back to page 20 for Byron’s primer on the quiet world of kayaking. In the spring, many a young man is occupied by thoughts of love. In the case of 15-year-old Boo Lowry, the current object of his passion is a 1944 Farmall M tractor. The East Helena-area resident is restoring the tractor— his third such project. Writer Sanjay Talwani unearths the roots of Lowry’s pursuits on page 26. Pete Nowakowski, the Independent Record city editor, sits at his desk each work day, working with reporters and lining up stories for the newspaper. Of course, he, like most of us, finds a few moments for daydreaming. His idea of escape doesn’t involve a hike or a mountain bike but hitting the road on a motorcycle. “Nothing beats swinging a leg over my Buell XB12,” he admits. “It could be high noon in the middle of August and it doesn’t matter that my air-cooled lump could heat a small apartment. I’d rather hit the pavement than the trails.” Blasphemy to some, Nowakowski’s passion for pavement has produced some tips for some great Helena-area rides, accompanied by some timely safety advice. Head out on the highway on page 36. From artsy homes, peaceful moments in a kayak or the thrill of the open road, here’s to spring in the 596. [!]
photo by eliza wiley
Butch Larcombe Editor
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[7]
[food & drink]
Like hotdogs, hamburgers and chili? Think you have a big appetite? Test it out in tiny Elliston at Lawdog’s
Bigger is Better If you think about destination dining, Elliston is not a place that naturally comes to mind. The tiny town is easy to miss and easier to dismiss as simply a short stretch of U.S. Highway 12 where you have to decrease your speed to 45 mph. No doubt you’ve seen Lawdog’s Saloon, formerly known as Stoner’s Last Chance Saloon, but for many Helena-area drivers, the modest building is more of a landmark indicating that you’ve either safely made it over MacDonald Pass (west bound) or that you are only 30 minutes from home (east bound). But there’s good reason to pull over and check out Lawdog’s, the least of which is the Bigfoot paraphernalia hanging on the walls (the saloon has hosted the farcical, annual Bigfoot Hunt for more than 20 years). u [8]
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Story by PEGGY O’NEILL Photos by Eliza Wiley
This page: Patrick Klusner consumes ‘The Challenge;’ a 2-pound all beef burger topped with six strips of bacon and served on an 8-inch bun that must be consumed in an hour. He ate the whole thing in 27 minutes, 25 seconds. Top: Ex-lawman-turned-restaurant & bar-owner Bill Henne serves up ‘The Challenge’ at Lawdog’s Saloon.
‘I don’t allow politics in here. I don’t allow religion in here. I have zero tolerance for fighting or drugs. I catch you and you’re out. Everybody knows that. That’s the reputation I want.’ Bill Henne, Lawdog’s Saloon owner & chef
Top: Bill Henne cooks up his burgers made from Montana-grown beef at Lawdog’s. Below: Patrons belly up to the bar for drinks and dinner.
Walk into the bar/restaurant and your eyes have to adjust to the darkness, but then owner Bill Henne comes into view. His bright blue eyes peer out from under a black cowboy hat and his smile and mustache spread from ear to ear. Henne and his bubbly wife, Becky, have owned the saloon for about two and a half years. After spending 37 years in a law enforcement career that stretched from Seattle to Kosovo, Henne said he was ready for something different. He was checking his mail at the Elliston Post Office one day and noticed a hand-written note stuck to the wall announcing an opening for a bartender at Stoner’s saloon. “I decided I’d give it a shot,” Henne says. He worked as a bartender then bought the place from Guy and Mary Jo Stoner a few years later. Henne says one of the first things he did after taking over was to make the saloon no-smoking. He cleaned the ceiling and repainted the walls and renamed it after a reference to Wyatt Earp in the movie Tombstone. Henne also expanded the menu. The star of the menu is the Lawdog. It’s a 1-pound hotdog smothered in Henne’s homemade chili and topped with French fries. (There’s a smaller ½-pound version as well.) Priced at $10, there is enough food in this single entrée to feed a family of three for at least three days—I can tell you this from experi-
ence. The thing about the presentation, however, is that, individually, the hotdog, chili and French fries are so delicious, it’s almost a shame to pile them altogether. The all-beef hotdogs are made in Deer Lodge from Montana beef. You can choose from a regular hotdog or a jalapeno-and-cheddarstuffed dog. We chose the jalapeno-cheddar dog, and while there is a little bit of a bite, the spiciness is not overwhelming. Henne hasn’t changed his chili recipe in the 35 years he’s been making it, and for good reason. It’s a mix of beef, beans, tomatoes, mushrooms, olives and plenty of wine. He won’t share the recipe; Becky doesn’t even know it. One of the couple’s daughters is the only other person on the planet entrusted with the secret. The French fries are thick cut and golden—the perfect size and consistently to hold up to the chili. Another Lawdog claim to fame is the Bigfoot Burger. Again, this is not an entrÊe for a light appetite. The burger—all Montana beef from the same butcher in Deer Lodge—is a 1-pounder with a custom-made bun (from the bakery at Van’s Thriftway in Helena), topped with Swiss cheese and bacon—all for $10. This is not something I would have ordered if I hadn’t been advised to do so by the man in the black hat, but it is definitely something I would order again—maybe with five friends to share it. The burger is as big as a dinner plate and the bun could double as a pillow. Swiss cheese has never been my favorite, but it complemented the saltiness of the bacon and added a subtle tanginess to the beef. Like the Lawdog, there is a ½-pound version of the Bigfoot, but if
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you’re dining with family or friends, the full-size burger is great to share. For the hearty appetite, there are even bigger-sized renderings of the Lawdog and the Bigfoot that come with the reward of a special T-shirt and a photo of you devouring the platter of food—if you can actually complete the meal within an hour. At least 20 people have been able to stomach the Double Bigfoot—that’s right, 2 pounds of beef and double the bacon. Henne was one—of the first (and oldest at 61 years of age) to complete the meal—he did so with 30 seconds to spare. Recently, a Helena diner broke the Double Bigfoot record and consumed the entire burger in less than eight minutes. The Double Lawdog is two 1-pound hotdogs smothered in chili and French fries. Only two people have been able to finish the Double dog in the allotted hour time limit. “A couple dozen have tried,� Henne says. The Double Bigfoot and Double Lawdog challenges (both $20) also require the diner to drink 24 ounces of something— beer or soda, your choice. If your appetite can’t handle such copious amounts of food in a single sitting, there are other items on the menu—fish and chips, sandwiches, pizza, fried chicken and an assortment of finger foods. Whatever you order, just make sure you abide by the Lawdog’s rules: “I don’t allow politics in here. I don’t allow religion in here,� Henne says. “I have zero tolerance for fighting or drugs. I catch you and you’re out. Everybody knows that. That’s the reputation I want.� [!] Lawdog’s is open every day except Christmas. Children are allowed.
“Like any great work of art, we must abandon our inhibitions and surrender them to the artist. It can be difficult at times, but almost always, the reward is overwhelmingly worth it.� — MAESTRO ALLAN R. SCOTT
PHOTO BY ALLEN S. LEFOHN
B I G S K I E S. B I G S O U N D S. B I G D R E A M S.
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406.442.1860
HELENASYMPHONY.ORG spring/summer 2011
[11]
[homes]
whereOLD meetsNEW Craftsman architecture is reborn in Helena neighborhoods
Although Helena is a relatively small city, its neighborhoods showcase a diverse history of home building. The American Craftsman style, a product of the Arts and Crafts movement, was one of the most-loved architectural trends during the city’s second building boom of the 1910s and 1920s. A great number of houses nestled throughout city’s the older neighborhoods still stand as fantastic examples from the Craftsman’s original heyday. Today, a new generation of home builders is reviving the American Craftsman and bungalow style, using the classic ingredients in modern interpretations. Not only do these contemporary beauties echo the building artistry of yore but they also recall a bit of the nostalgic lifestyle. u Story and Photography by Ginny Emery
[12]
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This page: Eric and Angie Grove’s new bungalow-style home harmonizes with the landscape. Facing page, left: This home was built in 1912 by Helena contractor, Louis Johnson who constructed several of the Craftsman houses on Warren Street. Right: This home by Cottage Craft Homes is part of a new development that revives the ideals of classic neighborhood life.
The visionary era known generally as the Arts and Crafts movement originated in England during the late 1800s. The movement’s principles, strongly attributed to artist and poet William Morris, were in part, a reaction to Europe’s declining conditions of labor and the falling quality of mass-produced goods after the Industrial Revolution. Its ideas were also a response to the opulent, ornamented styles of the Victorian era. Morris and others championed the return to simple, modest design, the use of locally available natural materials, and showcasing the talents of the individual craftsman. Not long after, the Arts and Crafts movement found its way across the Atlantic and American Craftsman architecture was born. Original Craftsman-era houses were often of a relatively modest size and stature, exhibiting characteristics like a low-pitch, gabled or hipped roofs, front porches covered by the main roof, and segmented windows. The effect was a variety of colors and textures presided over by strong, clean lines and natural materials. Inside, square angles, straight lines and deliberate layout gave a feeling of space to relatively modest floor plans. These sensible, yet pleasing aesthetics made it a natural choice in [14]
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the growing demand for quality middle-class homes. Gustav Stickley, with his magazine, The Craftsman, became a driving force, popularizing the Arts and Crafts lifestyle by featuring furniture, home designs and providing architectural plans. Soon, various American Craftsman-style and ‘bungalow’ homes were in huge demand across the United States, showcased in magazines, offered in plan books and even sold in kits through Sears and Roebuck mail-order catalogs. Although the zeal for the Craftsman trend began to subside by the end of the 1920s, the changing tides of American architecture swept many Craftsman design elements along with it into the rest of the century. Helena residents Eric and Angie Grove built their Craftsman-influenced home in 2007. Eric says growing up on the upper west side inspired his love for the history of Helena’s architecture. Predominantly, the area exhibits houses in the Queen Anne and Victorian style, but he says if you look closer, you can find hidden gems of the original Arts and Crafts movement—homes that may not be overwhelmingly elaborate, but that exhibit hand-crafted character. The Groves began the process of building their home with a
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couple of key priorities. First, they wanted a home that was relatively small and modest, yet well laid out. Second, they wanted a clean, somewhat contemporary design that also used natural materials. Those priorities led them to the realization that what they really wanted to build This page: A custom front door adds character to was a home the Groves’ home. Facing page, clockwise from top left: The Groves’ living room is a fusion of natural reminiscent materials and the work of local artisans. A Cottage of the original Craft Homes fireplace exhibits clean lines and square Craftsman angles. A variety of materials and colors give a rich look to the clean lines of Sheila and Bob Habeck’s style, steeped contemporary Craftsman home. Wood inlay on the in contempolanding in the Groves’ home. Historic examples of rary elements the Craftsman style are a prominent part of Helena’s most beloved neighborhoods. created by local artisans. “Helena is blessed with a lot of true craftsmen,� Eric says. “We had so many people we knew that we wanted to come in and do things like the floors, cabinets and countertops.� The result is their two-story contemporary bungalow which champions local character, encourages the friendly neighborhood lifestyle and harmonizes with the Montana landscape. Local developers and builders are also playing an important role in the city’s revived interest in Craftsman and bungalow houses. While many of the area’s new custom homes display elements of the style, Rick Ahmann and Layton Sysum are taking the idea further with their partnership in Cottage Craft Homes. Another development from Envision Homes is also offering residences with a Craftsman look. The idea, explains Ahmann, is to create a traditional neighborhood. “I grew up in a front-yard neighborhood,� he says. “We saw that they were more pedestrian oriented.� Ahmann and Sysum say they’ve already seen enthusiasm from a number of people area who are not only fervently interested in the revival of Craftsman aesthetic but also in a return to the tightly knit neighborhood lifestyle. The development, along Benton Avenue north of its intersection with Custer Avenue, will bring back an older community feel, in part, with its layout: narrow, deep lots with generous front yards and an efficient use of each lot’s space. With the homes themselves, they say the goal is to build with quality and longevity in mind, no matter what the price point. The designs draw heavily from the features of historic Craftsman style homes. The ultimate goal? To carry on the integrity of the Arts and Crafts movement and the aesthetics of the Craftsman legacy in a modern market and economy. [!]
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[17]
[gear]
today’s hats have both a form and a function
why not
Some companies specialize in hats such as Swedish company Wigéns, which are sold locally at By George Sheila’s on Last Chance Gulch. Store owner Greg Allen says the quality is topnotch and is one of his best sellers. They produce a Storm System hat that’s waterproof, breathable, has ear flaps, can be worn by men or women and comes in tweed or with sheepskin for ultra warmth, Allen says. By George Sheila’s has been selling hats since it opened in downtown Helena in 1975. The store also carries hats from Borsalino, an Italian company that uses fur felt instead of wool, which Allen says is lighter and will last 20 years or longer. They are the upper end of hats and can run up to $300 and feature a button that attaches to jackets so on windy days it does not fly off the head. Filson is a brand known by many Montanans because it’s more than a century old, American-made and sells an array of apparel. The Summer Packer Hat, which sells for $46.95, is functional because it keeps the sun off and is lightweight. Allen is also a big fan of Pantropic Hats—the authentic Panama hat—which offer many of the same features as the Filson. Hats provide protection in the months when the sun is beating down on Treasure State residents and hold in body heat during the snow season. A key element customers ask about when hat shopping at The Base Camp is the ultraviolent protection rating, says assistant manager Krystal Strang. For some fishermen in the area, hats are a necessity, and a popular Columbia hat in the fishing world is the Blood and Guts Booney that provides a barrier for overspray as well as the smells and stains that come with angling. The resilient 3-inch brim stays true to form, even if it’s been shoved into the bottom of a tackle box for weeks. Another popular fishing hat is the baseball cap. The baseball cap gives good ventilation and reduces glare and eye fatigue because it provides enough shade. Columbia and ExOfficio make a variety of styles that are adjustable at the crown. “This way they can be tightened for windy conditions or loosened when it’s calm,” Strang says. The newest feature for outdoor hats is insect blocker, which has repellent in the fabric that will hold up through about 70 washes.
Wear a Hat? Story by ALANA LISTOE Photos by DYLAN BROWN Hats have been a part of human existence since the cooliestyle straw hat found in a tomb painting at Thebes, and a skull cap called a Pileus worn by sailors in ancient Greece. Through the decades hats have taken on many forms for fashion, required attire for various uniforms and sometimes a status symbol. More often than not, folks in Montana wear hats as merely functional protection, whether they are on the golf course, digging in the garden, or standing in the river with a fly rod in hand. Beanies have probably made the biggest surge in recent years, which may be because they are low cost and offer the largest selection. Some beanies have visors; others have decorative balls and bows. Some are lined with fleece for comfort and warmth, while others are thin enough to be worn under a helmet. Columbia and North Face make a wide range of beanies in styles, colors and textures and are reasonably priced. Beanies are found anywhere from department stores to outdoors stores. [18]
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Whether you wear hats for function or fashion, options are nearly endless from styles and price ranges. Retailers say the best approach is to get out and try them on to ensure just the right fit and desired appearance; even if it’s just to hide a bad haircut. [!]
This page: By George Sheila’s owner Greg Allen wears a Wigéns Storm System waterproof hat and holds a Borsalino Alessandria hat, left, and Wigéns Newsboy. Facing page: From left, Irish Linen in white and plaid, by Wigens and Insulated Tin Cap, by Filson.
Captions go here
Several versions of flatwater boats are available at The Base Camp and many other outdoor retailers. [20]
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b
Betsy Brandborg was a die-hard canoeist until her husband bought her a kayak for her birthday. That first excursion was magical. As she paddled low in the water under a full moon and starry skies, beavers swam under and around her, close enough to touch. She was hooked. So Brandborg reciprocated and bought a kayak for her husband. Then they bought one for their son. Then one for their daughter. Then, because the first kayak was rather large—built to carry a small child or dog in the front—her husband recently bought Brandborg a new one, bringing their kayak fleet to five. And she hasn’t taken out that old canoe in years. u flatwater enthusiasts
are turning to kayaking for summer fun
buying
boat the right
Story By EVE BYRON • Photos by ELIZA WILEY
‘It is absolutely the best way to exercise and have fun at the same time.’ Betsy Brandborg
Photos clockwise from left: A two-piece kayaking paddle from Carlisle-Day Tripper. Jay Sherley uses a sit-on-top kayak while bow fishing for carp in the canals of Lake Helena. Wet socks, paddling gloves and dry bags are not essential, but can make flatwater kayaking more enjoyable.
“It is absolutely the best way to exercise and have fun at the same time,” Brandborg says. Walk into just about any outdoor sporting goods store in the spring and summer months and it’s hard to miss the hot pink, neon green and sunshine yellow kayaks, as well as the camouflage green and black ones stacked on end or on racks. Looking for something with a big cockpit that’s easy to get into and a boat that’s wide, flat and stable, for an easy float down the Missouri River? They’ve got one, complete with cup holder and arm rests. Need something a bit more maneuverable, a tight fit that turns on a dime for a little whitewater on the Dearborn? No problem. Bungee cords on the bow and stern keeps gear in place, or it can be stashed down one of the hatches. Want to do a little fishing? Drop a line and stick the pole in the built-in holder, kick back in the adjustable seat, and measure that trout on the built-in scale and store extra hooks on the built-in shelf. Short of cargo space? Inflatable kayaks made out of heavy-weight rubber material are easily stashed and some even have inner bladders, in case the outer layer is punctured. “With the Missouri running through our backyard, flatwater kayaking is huge in Helena,” says Damon Peters at Montana Outdoor Sports. “It seems that the older generation is starting to get into it now, with a lot of people looking for non-motorized, quiet trips.” Some of the more popular destinations [22]
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include Lake Helena, Spring Meadow Lake, the Gates of the Mountains and the Smith River. Dozens of kayaks stand on their tails at Capital Sports, each appealing in different ways. Ed Beall notes that one reason the sport is so popular is that it’s easy to get started. “We get a lot of entry-level people coming in, general recreationalists, who are looking for something stable and economical,� Beall says. “We’re seeing more business these days with the light touring kayaks. The wider ones are more stable, but the narrower ones are more efficient.� At The Base Camp, colorful kayaks line the walls and fill the aisles. Tim Lynch, the store manager, walks among them, pointing out their various uses. “This one isn’t as maneuverable, but it’s very comfortable,� he says, pausing by one aptly called an “Impulse.� “It comes with lots of options, and you can paddle with your kid or a pup.� He points out one that looks like a cross between a kayak and a canoe. It doesn’t have the defined, traditional cockpit of a kayak, nor the high sides of a canoe. Its flat bottom allows people fishing or duck hunting to stand up, and it comes with a cleat for an anchor off of the side. “Lots of folks used them for duck hunting,� he says. “You can put a couple decoys in the back, and it’s very stable in the tall grasses.� Most flatwater kayaks range in size from 9 feet to around 20 feet. They can be as light as 45 pounds—the inflatables are even lighter—
or weigh in the 100-pound range. Inflatables start around $100, solid ones around $300 and go up to $3,500 for the long, lightweight fiberglass boats. And what’s a kayak without the accessories? Of course, paddles are mandatory and come in a variety of styles, lengths and weights. “The correct paddle is everything, especially if you’re paddling a lot,� Beall says. Life vests also are important, even if some people don’t wear them during the warm summer days when floating on flat water. But at The Base Camp, Lynch is quick to note that they save lives, and most stores carry a number of different styles to fit just about any shape. They also have some made specifically for infants, as well as for dogs. While many people enjoy going solo when kayaking, the looselyknit Helena Flatwater Paddling Group gets together every Tuesday evening during the summer—as well as in the spring and fall, if the weather allows. Susan Nimock says the group doesn’t have a leader, and at the end of each paddle, they decide as a group where to go the next week. She shoots an email to about 70 people, and anywhere from five to 20 people typically show up to chat and float. Their excursions also are posted on The Base Camp website, thebasecamp.com. “It’s an easy-going group of people who enjoy paddling on flat water,� Nimock says. “It’s not like anybody is trying to outdo each other, and we even have a couple of people with canoes join us.� Anyone interested in learning more about the group and their outings can email her at snimock@mt.net. [!]
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[25]
Boo Lowry talks about his latest tractor restoration project.
More fun than Facebook: East Helena teen spends his time restoring vintage tractors Story by Sanjay Talwani â&#x20AC;˘ Photos by Eliza Wiley
‘I tried to get him interested in muscle cars, but he just wouldn’t do it.’ Roy Lowry, Sr., Boo’s father
Tractor Attraction
This page, top: Boo Lowry’s before-and-after photos of his 1943 Farmall H. Photos courtesy of Boo Lowry. Below: Lowry in his shop. Facing page, top: Lowry tightens bolts on the upper bolster plate of the second Farmall tractor he is restoring. Below: The hood, tank, PTO shield, brake bands and drums of Lowry’s 1944 Farmall H.
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Like a lot of mechanically inclined 15-year-old boys, Boo Lowry is busy this spring on his vehicle, stripping off the paint, working on the old radiator and making sure he has all the right hoses and fuses. Boo’s parents don’t have to worry about him speeding— his rig is a tractor—a 1944 Farmall M tractor, with cast iron parts poured in 1943, bought recently in East Helena for $500. “It’ll start—in below-zero weather,” Boo says, after it was put out to pasture by its former owners. The tractor had a blown head gasket and a chunk of iron missing from the manifold, and Boo has been pulling its innards apart. Many of the half-centuryold pieces of metal just need a little cleaning, and are carefully arranged in the Lowry’s garage near East Helena. Boo figures he might complete the project around July, and then use the tractor for parades and a little cruising around. His confidence comes from experience; Boo has already restored a 1943 Farmall H. “I just decided to strip it down and clean it up,” he says. He also has an old Farmall A that runs, but also needs restoration.
[28]
www.helenair.com / 596magazine
Boo’s family doesn’t farm; the tractor obsession is apparently inherited from his grandfather, Gary Larsen of Great Falls, who has a collection of more than 60 tractors. “Then we collect the toy models, too,” says Boo. He has about 200 models of construction equipment and tractors. Near Boo’s half-deconstructed rig is a gleaming 1967 Chevy Camaro that his father, Roy Lowry, Sr., has restored. “I tried to get him interested in muscle cars, but he just wouldn’t do it,” the elder Lowry says. Boo says he doesn’t care for all the bending and reaching involved in Camaro restoration. The tractor parts, in contrast, are easier to reach. Generations of farmers have kept this M rolling and the Farmall line—originally a brand of International Harvester—producing food since its introduction in the 1920s. A later model, sometimes called the Super M, was so popular that International Harvester built a new Iowa factory in the 1950s to meet the demand. Production of the Farmall line ended in the 1970s. The M will eventually be good as new—maybe even better. Boo used the paint shade known as the “new” IH red on
‘Once you get going, you can’t stop.’ Boo Lowry
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with a newer one. A large lever just behind the seat engages a rear gear that could connect to various implements. The tractor originally ran on two different fuels. It would start and warm up using gasoline, and then switch to kerosene. But Boo is getting a new manifold to allow it to run on just gasoline. It had no functional brakes at the start of the project, and a brake belt that cost $5 in 1963 now goes for $130. Still to come are more belts, wires, gauges and lights. Any time his surgery brings him to a gasket, that historic item gets replaced. Boo finances his tractor habit with money earned working for the family excavating and well-drilling operations. New rear tires for the tractorâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;the big onesâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;could run $1,000 a pair. Fortunately, the rigâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s current set will work, even though they are cracked and battered. Restoration can take lots of time, a lot of which is spent stripping
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the old paint off the various parts. In some cases, the paint is burnt onto the metal by engine heat, requiring extra effort to get the old red off to reveal the dull, gray, all-American 1940s steel. â&#x20AC;&#x153;This will be all bare metal,â&#x20AC;? he says, looking at the Farmall M. Then there will be a lot of time actually painting. Some of the parts, like the hood and fuel tanks, will require four or five coats. Boo has no plans to stop accumulating and restoring tractors. He reads the old operating manuals and is looking at other tractorsâ&#x20AC;&#x201D; not to mention related items like plows and haying equipment. â&#x20AC;&#x153;If anybody has an old International tractor, or implement, that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re going to haul it to the scrapyard, please contact me instead,â&#x20AC;? he says. His goal is to get a Farmall H from every year they were made, 1939 to 1953. â&#x20AC;&#x153;Once you get going, you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t stop,â&#x20AC;? he says. [!]
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‘Everybody This page: Performers pose in the Brewery Theatre’s arched windows in 1972. Photo by Dave Shors. Facing page: Doris Marshall. Photo courtesy of Linda Piccolo.
I
Sings’
If ever there was a tale of love and loss, it’s that of the Old Brewery Theatre. It’s also a tale of its spirited and gifted director Doris Marsolais Marshall, who guided it before the theater fell victim to the urban renewal wrecking ball. She and her husband, Walter H. Marshall, operated this popular summer stock theater from 1954 to 1972, which earned a national reputation and drew college and professional actors from as far as the New York stage and Hollywood. At times, the cast included performers like Lucille Ball, Robert Wagner and Rex Reed. Doris, who was known as Helena’s “first lady of theater,” was the theater teacher at Helena High School from 1947 to 1969. She changed the lives she touched—a gift that earned her local and national renown. “Marsh” was featured in the February 1957 Reader’s Digest and was the first recipient of the national Thespian Award, First Lady of Drama. She was also one of six teachers McCall Magazine listed on its 1953 Teacher of the Year Honor Roll. Two of her students, Bev Fox and Linda Piccolo, would follow in her footsteps, teaching theater and inspiring future generations of local actors. Fox, now retired from Capital High School, and Piccolo, who teaches at Jefferson High School, recently shared their scrapbooks, clippings and memories of this amazing dynamo and the theater tradition she built in Helena. “Everybody loved Doris,” recalls Fox. “I was kind of shy. I never thought Doris would put me in a play, but she did. It was the most terrifying experience of my whole life.” Through the theater, Fox learned she could make people laugh. She learned to handle her fear. And she learned she was in love with theater. u
Through Helena’s Old Brewery Theatre, Doris Marshall gave the the gift of performing to several area actors and countless audiences By MARGA LINCOLN
‘She was the first person who told me, ‘everybody sings,’ ’ Linda Piccolo, Jefferson High drama teacher, recalling the teachings of Doris Marshall
Top: The exterior of the Old Brewery Theatre. Postcard courtesy of Tom Mulvaney. Below: One of the programs from the theater. Photo courtesy of Linda Piccolo.
In high school, Piccolo had her eyes on being a lawyer. She recalled trying to sign up for advanced speech class at Helena High School, but no such class existed. The principal told her, “I’m putting you in drama and you’ll like it.” “It changed my life,” says Piccolo, digging for a tissue as tears well in her eyes. “That was it. That was the end.” Fox agrees, “She changed my life. She let you know what you were capable of. You did things you didn’t know you could do— never dreamed you could do.” “She was the first person who told me, ‘everybody sings,’ ” says Piccolo. It’s a line Piccolo now uses with her own drama students decades later. Not only did everybody sing, but they learned table manners. In preparation for a thespian initiation event at the Montana Club, Doris spread a table with glasses and silverware and taught them all how to eat, how to open their napkins and introduced them to their salad forks. Among the productions Marshall staged (some 750 in her lifetime) were biennial performances at the Helena Civic Center for the Montana Legislature. She began with Abe Lincoln of Illinois in 1949 and ended with a lavish production of Gilbert and Sullivan’s Mikado in 1969, which rocked the Civic Center with standing ovations. [34]
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A New York drama critic went to one of Doris’ high school productions and was astounded at the impressive production requiring 18 shifts of scenery, 450 students and 1,500 costumes. “Hurrying backstage to locate the play’s director, he found a vivid, handsome brunette dressed in paintstreaked coveralls, atop a ladder helping her kids dismantle scenery,” wrote Frances V. Rummell. The critic was particularly moved by the 17-year-old leading man’s tragic portrayal. It turns out Doris had cast Ted Wilson, the high school clown, as the lead—a move that had high school faculty shaking their heads in trepidation. But Wilson rose to the occasion, as Doris knew he would. “You never did a bad job,” says Piccolo, “because God forbid you would disappoint Doris.” Her high school performances at what is now the Helena Middle School regularly drew standing-room-only crowds to the 1,000-seat theater. “In the 1950s, high school drama coach Doris Marshall emerged as a central force in Helena theater,” wrote Harriett Meloy in a July 16, 1998, Independent Record column. Meloy noted that Marshall expanded performance opportunities for her Helena High student players by offering entertainment at Frontier Town, a tourist attraction at the top of MacDonald Pass.
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seeking help from legislators and Gov. Thomas Judge, but to no avail. The theater closed in 1972. Dean B. Wheeler of The Daily Report, Ontario-Upland Calif., wrote Oct. 6, 1973, of the famed theaterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s passing, â&#x20AC;&#x153;The 95-year-old structure, originally constructed to produce Rocking Horse Beer for thirsty gold miners, became during the past 19 years a summer-stock theater where Lucille Ball, Wendell Corey, Alexis Smith, Robert Wagner and Rex Reed stood upon the boards and brought drama to Montanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s capital city.â&#x20AC;? â&#x20AC;&#x153;The Brewery was like an ugly duck grown beautiful,â&#x20AC;? said Doris, at the time of the closure. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The lady will be forgotten by some, but she will be a beautiful memory to the many who enjoyed the entertainment and to the hundreds who studied and acted there. I hope the angels always guard this place.â&#x20AC;? [!]
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When these summer theater shows grew popular, Doris searched for a new home, honing in on The Helena Brewery, which had been closed since 1912. At Doris and Walterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s urging, a branch of the Helena Chamber of Commerce raised $13,625â&#x20AC;&#x201D;$5,000 to purchase the brewery and $4,500 to start another Marshall dream, a tour train. It still operates today as the Last Chance Tour Train. The Old Brewery Theatre opened in June 1954 with Down to Earth, the first of some 150 plays that would be staged there over nearly two decades. The theater troupe took the name The Bandit Players from the theater location on Bandit Alley, the present-day site of the Claimstake Apartments at 441 S. Park Ave. Holding auditions in Washington, D. C., and San Francisco, the Old Brewery Theatre drew actors from nearly every state and 17 foreign countries, according to a 1967 Independent Record article. Although the theater was immensely popular, Walter and Doris constantly struggled to pay the bills. Doris pinched pennies by creating some decidedly unusual dishes for the cast. Piccolo recalls finding peach slices in the spaghetti sauce one day. The girl next to her commented, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t you knowâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;she puts fruit cocktail in it.â&#x20AC;? The theater building had its quirks, as well. The roofed leaked, at times with such velocity that some audience members would open umbrellas during performances in an effort to stay dry. In the heat of summer, perspiring audience members would bolt for the doors and fresh air as soon as it was intermission. The theater was also home mice, rats and cats and dogs. â&#x20AC;&#x153;The cats were running around the theater while we were performing,â&#x20AC;? laughs Fox. â&#x20AC;&#x153;One climbed up in my dadâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lap during a performance.â&#x20AC;? Although the brewery was one of Helenaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s original buildings, administrators of the federal Urban Renewal program deemed it unworthy of restoration. The Marshalls fought hard to save it, even
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Head out on the highway this spring on one of these spectacular motorcycle day trips
A ride through White Sulphur Springs is one of the many day trips motorcyclists can enjoy from Helena.
Story by Pete Nowakowski â&#x20AC;˘ Photos by Eliza Wiley
Of course, the mode of transportation may differ, but the therapy is the same. Most of us sacrifice our work-a-day lives, so we can treat ourselves on our free time.
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We all know Montana is an outdoor dreamland. Fishing, skiing, hiking, mountain biking, climbing, camping and hunting are literally out our back door. Self-propelled ventures are de rigueur, especially in the Queen City, and you can’t mention “Montana” without eliciting thoughts of escape. But what about those of us who don’t mind motorized propulsion? The traditionalists looking to leave civilization behind may scoff at the idea, but the secret is out: Montana is a motorcycling destination, perhaps one of the top destinations in the U.S. Recently, the American Motorcyclist Association polled its readers, who ranked the Beartooth Highway south of Red Lodge as the best road in America. The Going to the Sun Road in Glacier National Park and U.S. Highway 12 over Lolo Pass and were 6th and 9th, respectively. Personally, I don’t mind Montana’s image shifting a bit; few things make me happier than a twisty stretch of road. I used to have a bumper sticker that read “Pave the Planet.” It was a joke, but I do like blacktop. Nothing beats swinging a leg over my Buell XB12. It could be high-noon in the middle of August, and it doesn’t matter that my air-cooled lump could heat a small apartment, I’d rather hit the pavement than hit the trails. The roads in the AMA poll are hours from Helena, but you don’t need to head half-way across the state to find pristine riding. Pick a direction and within minutes you’ll find a great ride. Quick trips or day-long adventures, Helena is a hub for motorcycle roads. Montanans share a universal goal of “getting out of town.” It’s why we live here.
[38]
www.helenair.com / 596magazine
Safety is critical Enjoying one of the area’s many rides requires that you actually make it back. Safety is paramount in motorcycling, and we need to police ourselves. Enjoying Montana’s roads and ensuring we don’t anger other motorists requires that we be stewards of our sport. The best way to do this is formal training. Real-world, practical motorcycling is what local riders Udell Sharp and Ken Conrad preach. These two local riders and instructors spend plenty of time on the training course for Montana Motorcycle Rider Safety, but part of the equation for riding is having fun, and getting out of town. “The enjoyment, the skill, the satisfaction for me, comes from exercising my knowledge and skills proficiently on the motorcycle,” Conrad says. “I remember the first time I found myself in rush-hour traffic in Seattle in the rain. You are exercising all of your skills and all of your knowledge and all of the perspective you’ve gained. In that sense, it’s fun. Because you’re right there, your head is right in the game.” Motorcycling isn’t a one-size-fits-all activity. If you’re inclined to ride, then the sport will work for you, as it does for Sharp. “You can control and make (riding) fun,” he says, “like if you were riding with Ken and he had to go through Seattle or wherever, you don’t have to do that. If that’s beyond what you feel comfortable at, you don’t have to do that. There are always ways around those cities. If you don’t like the rain, don’t ride in the rain. If you don’t like the snow, don’t ride Top: Eric Pond and Steve Karwaski ride out of the canyon near York. Below: A favorite, and quick, loop from Helena is to cruise around Canyon Ferry Lake.
in the snow. You can always make anything fit to what you want so you can enjoy it and still be safe. Some of it you have to work a little harder at, but thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s part of motorcycling.â&#x20AC;? Another part of motorcyclingâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;or any worthwhile endeavorâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;is practicing and knowing your limits. This doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mean you have to get in over your head to become a better rider. â&#x20AC;&#x153;You donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t necessarily have to challenge yourself,â&#x20AC;? Conrad says. With all that said, if you are just itching to get out and ride, at least remember this simple mantra from Conrad: â&#x20AC;&#x153;Stay within your skill level.â&#x20AC;? A great way for riders, of any skill level, to be better stewards of the roads is to take a class. Any professionally taught course will emphasize safety. Across the country, the leading organization in safety schooling is the Motorcycle Safety Foundation. Montana Motorcycle Rider Safety administers the safety foundationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s curriculum in the state. The program is based out of MSU-Northern in Havre, but classes are offered statewide. Whether you are a newbie with no experience or have been riding your entire life, there is a class for you. Called RiderCourses, Montana Motorcycle Rider Safety offers three for varied skill levels. Favorite rides If your skill level dictates that you do indeed need to get out of town, the Queen City is a gem. The road combinations are endless. Take a look at your favorite map and the unknown opportunities stretch out in every direction. Mitch Noack, the owner of Helena Cycle Center, knows the areaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s roads well and quickly rattles off a few favorites: â&#x20AC;˘ Take the back side of (Canyon Ferry) to Townsend. Go east to u
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[39]
Deep Creek Canyon and on to White Sulphur Springs. From there head north over King’s Hill and into Great Falls, where you can head back south to Helena. “That’s a real good ride out of here,” he says, echoing riders’ innate desire to get out of town. • Head north to Wolf Creek and take Highway 434 to Highway 200. Then head west and finally south over Flesher Pass back to Helena. Ken Conrad’s picks: • Conrad says he doesn’t like Interstate 15 heading north. But if you stay on the super slab long enough to exit onto Recreation Road, which becomes Craig Frontage Road, that’s where the fun begins. You can take that all the way to Great Falls by way of Ulm. Ride along the river on River Drive through Great Falls and pop out onto Highway 87/89 near Malmstrom Air Force Base. From there take Highway 89 south through White Sulphur Springs. From there take U.S. Highway 12 to just outside of Townsend and ride along the east side of Canyon Ferry (Highway 284) and head back into Helena. • Heading north on Interstate 15, take Lincoln Road over Flesher Pass (Highway 279) to Highway 200 where you’ll head east until Highway 434, which you’ll take south to Wolf Creek. Hook up with Recreation Road back to the slab and then head south into Helena. Nowakowski’s favored routes: Quick rides • Elliston and back. This is the best quick trip in the area, just
[40]
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watch out for the traffic. Summer drivers seem like they are out to kill riders. A quick morning wake-up over MacDonald Pass beats a cup of coffee any day. Or, take the trip after work to clear your head. • Marysville and back. The new pavement put down a few years ago makes this another favorite. Nice sweeping curves mean a fun, constant speed in both directions. • York. Lakes, creeks and winding pavement. Enough said. Stop at the grill and get a York burger; it’s a requirement. Longer rides • North on Highway 279 over Flesher Pass. West on Highway 200 into Lincoln. Continue to Highway 141 and head south past Helmville to Avon onto Highway 12 over MacDonald Pass and into Helena. This is my favorite trip in the area. • South on I-15 to Highway 69 at Boulder. Head south on 69 to I-90. Head west over Homestake Pass to Butte. Go north on I-15 back to Helena. Unlike Conrad, I don’t mind I-15 so much, especially between Helena and Butte. The road surface has seen better days, and it gets pretty rough right in the best spots. Regardless, it’s a fun ride that keeps you honest. • West on U.S. 12 to Garrison. West on I-90 to Drummond. Go south on Highway 1 through to Philipsburg and Anaconda and then back to I-90. Head into Butte and then go north back to Helena. Highway 1 is the destination here. It takes you along Georgetown Lake, which is such a nice ride in the middle of the summer and gives me goose bumps just thinking about it. [!]
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[41]
[7 reasons why]
Helena Farmers Market is the place to be on
Saturday
1. What started as a modest grouping of vendors nearly three decades ago has blossomed into a robust collection of offerings, from locally grown produce, meat and goodies to trinkets, artwork and more. It’s as local as local gets. It’s also the longest-running farmers market in the state, starting the last Saturday in April and ending the Saturday before Christmas. 2. Knowing where your food comes from—and who grows it—is important, but it also is fresher and tastes better in season direct from the farm. 3. Money spent with local farmers, growers and artisans stays close to home, working to build our local economy. Since the food moves through fewer hands, more of the money you spend goes to the local people growing it. 4. Food is often shipped thousands of miles. That leads to a big carbon footprint for a little bunch of herbs. Local farmers who follow organic and sustainable growing practices minimize your food’s environmental impact. 5. In order to sell food at the market, vendors must obtain licenses and permits through the county health department, which helps ensure the food safety of customers. 6. It’s a social hangout these days. Slowly pacing up and down (and back up and down again) Fuller Street you’re sure to bump into more than one group of friends and acquaintances.
By John Doran
[42]
www.helenair.com / 596magazine
7. Paul Jenkins’ “Good Dog” hot dog cart is a staple—and a perfect early lunch. If the Morning Light coffee didn’t shake your cobwebs and rev your engine, the sausage dog with spicy relish and hot mustard surely will. [!]
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spring/summer 2011
[43]
[laughs chance gulch]
[my office] Alan Nicholson Real Estate Developer
By Butch Larcombe
[44]
Alan Nicholson got an opportunity that most of us will never have: He designed his own office, perched on the top of the four-story Artisan Block in the Great Northern Town Center. “We knew we were going to take the top floor of this building,” explains Nicholson, the principal developer of the Town Center and other downtown Helena properties. “We told the architects we wanted lots of light in the building and this is what we got.” With two tiers of windows that face south, the office view encompasses Mount Helena, Mount Ascension, and the spires of the Cathedral of St. Helena, along with rooftops of many downtown buildings. If he steps outside to a spacious balcony with binoculars in hand, Nicholson says he can keep an eye on his home, which sits behind the Capitol. Views aside, it’s what’s inside the office that’s most engaging. Nicholson’s work space is surrounded by an eclectic mix of mementos that reflect his wide-ranging interests. “They remind me of the places I’ve been or things I have seen,” he says. “Also, they distract other people from the mess.” There are a number of fish models or fish-related art
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scattered about the office. Some depict Montana trout, while other pieces are from New Zealand, “where the fishing is very good,” Nicholson says. “I like to fish.” The biggest art work is a colorful three-panel painting that sits on the wall opposite his desk. It depicts the garden of French Impressionist Claude Monet. The garden adjoins the late artist’s home in Giverny, France, a place Nicholson has visited. Another painting is of a Paris street scene, while another image, a gift from a daughter, is of the famed Moulin Rouge nightclub. Nicholson has a son, a writer and editor for the New York Times, who lives in France, a fact that has prompted a number of visits. “We travel a lot and I have lots of things from that.” Another large piece of art in the office is a copy of an architectural drawing of the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo. Frank Lloyd Wright, Nicholson explains, “is kind of a hero of mine.” Not all of the items in the office are from afar. There are several models of downtown Helena buildings, including the Bluestone, near the fire tower, and Securities building, on the walking mall. Nicholson has extensive involvement in downtown real estate and a deep appreciation for historic buildings. A large model canoe above his desk reminds Nicholson of a family trip on the wild and scenic stretch of the Missouri River. A model train car and other railroad pieces are reminiscent of his youth in Roundup, which was served by the Milwaukee Road. “Trains were fascinating to me then,” he admits. All told, the office is a wide-ranging representation of Nicholson’s interests and approach to work. “My work style is to do a lot of different things at once,” he says. Are the all the pieces in his office a distraction? No, he says with a smile. “I am naturally distracted.” [!]
[last call]
On the way back from a crosstown swim meet, the light cascading on the buildings along Fuller Avenue caught my eye. I drove back around the block, hopped out of my truck and snapped this photo with a shutter speed of 1/320 of a second and an aperture of f/13 at an ISO of 400. The focal length was 70 mm. I focused on the lighting with the intention of making it black and white in Photoshop. By Dylan Brown
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