THE LARGER THAN LIFE ISSUE NO. 317 editor-in-chief & creative director helen dixon editor holly shackleton fashion director charlottle stockdale art director graham rounthwaite managing editor dominique fenn designer jocelyn lloyd deputy editor dean kissick womenswear fashion editors caroline newell hanna kelifa menswear fashion editor elgar johnson online editors sarah raphael sean baker assistant editor milly mcmachon office co-ordinator rose poole beauty director pat mcgrath consultant fashion directors edward enniful simon foxton fashion features editor charlie porter james anderson music and features editors jeremy abbot hanna hanra music editors hattie collins princess julia film editor johnathan crocker paris editor sarah hay arts editor kathy grayson la editor kayt jones new york editor matt jones contributing editors caryn franklin, paul flynn contributing fashion editors judy blame, marie chaix contributing beauty editor eugene souleiman production assistants to helen dixon michael stephens fashion assistant ger timey advertising director rebecca morris advertising manager ryan green advertising account manager daniel fitzgerald associate publisher mimma viglezio italian advertising representative angelo careddu frech advertising representative magali riboud usa advertising representative rebecca morris finance director colette kinsella executive director helen dixon accounts assistant salma charfi publishers terry and tricia jones contibutors laura dixon beth longmore zoe gibaut jessica robertson phoebe dixon daisy brown vicky carter interns philippa christie samantha hayden katherine turnbull stephanie vickers helen smith
LAURA GEORGIANA DIXON is a British hair and makeup artist. She has produced styles for clients such as Gucci, Prada, Dolce and Gabbana and many more. In this issue she primps and preens Beth Longmore for the Be Bright, Be Bold shoot.
PAUL WETHERELL is a London based photographer who photographs fashion portraits and landscapes. Over the past thirteen years his work has appeared in many prestigious publications such as British and Japanese Vogue, Dazed and Confused and of course i-D.
BETH LONGMORE is Britain’s newest It Girl. Born in a small town in the North of England, Beth has burst onto the fashion scene with vigour making her perfect for the Be Bright, Be Bold shoot. Watch out for this young model as she carves her career in the fashion industry.
HELEN DIXON is our trusty editor and for this issue she has dusted off her camera to bring us the Be Bright, Be Bold shoot. She first developed an interest in fashion photography when she was sixteen and this passion has grown continually. Now she does it as a hobby but what could be better than doing your hobby as part of your job?!
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insi-De the larger than life issue take inspiration and run with it… FASHION
22 Be Bright, Be Bold Photography Helen Dixon Fashion Director Phoebe Dixon
192 What You Think, You Become Photography Heidi Silmane Styling Sarah Richardson
214 Follow Your Dreams, Not Someone Else’s Photography Josh Olins Styling Cathy Kasterine FEATURES
17 Iris Apfel: Style Queen, Muse, Icon We explore the reasons behind Apfel’s sudden rise to fashion fame
166 You Owe It To Yourself, Set The World On Fire Richard Nicholl introduces us to his muses. An inspiring, beautiful, intelligent group of women who include his best friends, fellow designers and mum Text Marc Jacobs Photography Paul Wetherell Styling Richard Nicholl and Siobhan Lyons
206 You Are The Hero Of Your Own Story Brett Anderson’s flying solo Text Princess Julia Photography Thomas Lohr Styling Elgar Johnson
208 Change The World Or Go Home Being young today is exciting - especially in London Text Milly McMahon Photography Marcel Door Styling Ger Tierney
226 At Night, We Enter A World That Is Entirely Our Own Tilda Swinton and Ezra Miller are the stars of We Need To Talk About Kevin Text Susan Corrigan Photography Sandro Kopp
238 Laugh Often, Dream Big Sam Borkson and Arturo Sandoval are the Miami art duo who want to be FriemdsWithYou! Text Kathy Grayson i-D THE LARGER THAN LIFE ISSUE 10
INSi-DE THE LARGER THAN LIFE ISSUE: EXPRESS YOURSELF AND LIVE LARGE The phrase larger than life can have several definitions but here at i-D its pertains to those individuals that break all boundaries, stand out from the crowd and are proud to show their personality to the masses no matter how kooky it may be. In this issue of i-D we take a look at Iris Apfel’s unexpected rise to fashion fame. The ‘geriatric starlet’ who, at 90 years old, is more active than half of the i-D team. I get behind the camera to shoot Beth Longmore, a model on the rise, in a shoot honouring the ‘Rare Bird of Fashion’ herself, Iris Apfel, although our jewellery collection might not be as extensive as the style icon. (She has been collecting far longer than us!) Working on this issue has made the i-D team realise there’s nothing better than grabbing life with two hands and getting stuck in, after all if Iris can do it, we can too! Helen Dixon, Editor. i-D THE LARGER THAN LIFE ISSUE 14
IRIS APFEL: STYLE QUEEN, MUSE, ICON. AT 90 YEARS OLD THIS ‘GERIATRIC STARLET’ IS IN THE PRIME OF HER LIFE.
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Iris Apfel is the 90-year-old style icon with the trademark owl shaped glasses. With her unmistakeable outfits, Apfel does not often go unnoticed on the streets of New York. Over the years the ‘geriatric starlet’ has rubbed shoulders with fashion royalty, decorated the White House and travelled the world in search of antique fabrics and quirky jewellery. She has seen more in her lifetime than anyone would dare to dream possible but why has her whimsical style suddenly thrust her into the public eye? As a child growing up in Queens, New York, Apfel was surrounded by creative’s. Her grandfather was a master tailor who ‘made the most splendiferous button holes’, her mother, a boutique owner who taught her ‘how one could transform a bargain basement little nothing of a dress and transport it to fashion heaven’; and her father who worked with glass and mirror and was often commissioned to produce wonderful pieces for high profile clients. Each contributed to Apfel’s personal style but none more so than her mother, ‘my style turned out to be completely different to hers but it was she who laid the groundwork.’ Apfel spent her early years working a range of jobs and meeting some very influential people, who undoubtedly contributed in some way to her vivacious style but it was her marriage to Carl Apfel that allowed her access to a world of shopping prospects. They’ve spent many years travelling the world in search of fabric for their business, Old World Weavers but whether she is shopping in Loehman’s, a Syrian souk or a flea market Apfel always finds something worth having. ‘I enjoy the thrill of the chase, the discovery and the endless search. I just buy what I like. I’m a hopeless romantic. I buy things because I fall in love with them. I never buy anything because it’s expensive.’ Chunky jewellery, bright clashing colours and daring prints, you name it Apfel wears it. In recent years her stand out wardrobe has become the fixture of society columns and fashion features a true original if ever there was one. So why now? After a lifetime of dressing in an assortment of odd and eclectic outfits Apfel has caught the eye of the fashion world. The catalyst for her rise to fame seems to lie in the exhibition of a small selection of her wardrobe at the Museum of Modern Art in 2005. ‘Since [the show] she has taken the world of style by storm.’ Gaby Wood, The Observer. The exhibition has exponentially grown into a conceptual phase including a gallery of her
clothing, accessories and furnishings, gaining Apfel a strong group of admirers from all over the world. So extensive is her collection that the majority of it is now stored in a warehouse. From Navaho skirts to elephant jewellery there are no limits to Apfel’s creative eye. Whether she is dressed in haute couture or wearing a $15 pair of jeans Apfel always looks the epitome of style. Apfel’s rise to fashion fame correlates with the growth of technology and social media. The Internet allows people of all ages to access fashion and style at the click of a button. Trends spread in seconds through electronic passages, from New York to London in the blink of an eye. So with bloggers all around the world writing about her quirky, kooky style it is no wonder Apfel has become ‘a staple of hip New York life.’ Everywhere you go, aspiring and fully-fledged fashionistas are on the lookout for the next style icon. With smart phones in hand they are ready to snap a shot of their fashion idol and upload it for the world to see. However her style is not just appreciated on the streets, the exuberant 90 year old has been featured on many occasions in the New York Times, (photographed by Bill Cunningham), has appeared in magazines such as Paper and Elle and was photographed by renown photographer Bruce Weber for Italian Vogue. When ask if she would shoot with Weber, Apfel’s first thought was ‘When will the likes of me ever get a chance to be photographed by the likes of Bruce Weber? If I have to kill myself, I’ll do that shoot.’ It is her humble approach to her newfound fame that makes her so endearing; ‘She seems baffled, and clearly tickled to find herself on the cusp of stardom.’ Ruth La Ferla. ‘Although often a pre-existing condition, fame is not a prerequisite for being a muse.’ For Apfel this is certainly the case, her newfound fame has grown almost entirely from the way she dresses and several designers have taken inspiration from the way she pieces together garments and accessories from many different cultures to create an outfit that is distinctly Iris. Duro Olowu and Isaac Mizrahi both admire Apfel’s style and consider her a muse. ‘Fashion is like a big box of Lego to her. She is more ‘street’ than anyone I know.’ Her status as a muse has only heightened her fame and with this status comes the power to alter the way we think about and wear fashion. Surprisingly Apfel is not a follower of fashion but i-D THE LARGER THAN LIFE ISSUE 18
prefers to stick with her own style claiming ‘Unlike fashion it cannot be bought’ and ‘True style implies attitude, attitude, attitude.’There is certainly no shortage of that where this lady is concerned, she is not afraid to speak her mind especially when it comes to style: ‘There is a sad lack of glamour in the world today. It seems that the fatter and uglier people are the less clothes they wear.’ It would appear it is not only her outfits that are bold but her personality too. She is as vivacious at 90 as she has ever been! Maybe it is her approach to fashion and style and the demeanour with which she carries herself that has made Apfel an icon, as it is well known that the fashion industry thrives off larger than life personalities such as hers. Since the exhibition of her clothes in 2005 Apfel has been increasingly recognised as one of fashions influential and inspirational icons. Could it be that people have been encouraged to show their true colours through the medium of dress because of people like Apfel? It would seem that in the last few years many more people have allowed themselves to become adventurous dressers, unafraid to be bold and original with their outfits. Society has become much more relaxed about what manner of dress is appropriate, allowing people the fashion freedom that Apfel has had since her early years. Many would say this ‘Rare Bird of Fashion’ was ahead of her time as it is only in the last few years she has been appreciated by a wider audience. ‘Before multiculturalism was a word, Mrs Apfel was wearing it.’ Roberta Smith, The New York Times.
Many have tried to imitate her but to no avail, there is, and can only be one Iris Apfel! According to the guru herself ‘true style is elusive, exclusive, and ephemeral: therein lies its magic.’ At 90 years old this style icon is as busy as ever. She has several accessory lines in the offing, a documentary with critically acclaimed director Albert Maysles and she is now a visiting faculty fellow at the University of Texas, all the while she is doing interviews and photo shoots for various publications. She is a true inspiration, not just with regards to fashion but lifestyle too. How many other nonagenarians are still as active now as they were when they were 20? So is it the change in societal norms, the technology epidemic that has swept the world or extensive media coverage that has sent Apfel flying into the fashion hall of fame? Whichever it is let’s hope her legacy is here to stay, and carries on encouraging the fashion masses to let loose and have fun with their clothes. ‘Wit and humour are key components to my philosophy of dressing. Never take yourself or an outfit too seriously.’ So take a leaf out of Iris Apfel’s book, wear something daring, express your personality through fashion and develop your personal style. Accept no imitations this 90 year old fashion veteran is the queen of kooky style! TEXT HELEN DIXON
Throughout her long and prosperous life many have admired Apfel but it is in the last six years that her unique sense of style has truly been appreciated.
‘When you don’t dress like everybody else, you don’t have to think like everybody else.’ IRIS APFEL 19 i-D THE LARGER THAN LIFE ISSUE
Be Bright, Be Bold Photography and Styling Helen Dixon
Hair and Make-up Laura Dixon at Julian Watson Agency Photography assistance Laura Dixon, Zoe Gibaut, Styling assistance Daisy Brown, Phoebe Dixon Make-up assistance Jenny Coombs, Niamh Quinn, Mizzie Logan Hair assistance Yumi Nakada, Sarah Palmer Digital Tonia Arapovic Casting Etty Bellhouse Model Beth Longmore at Tyne Tees Modelling Agency
Dress Marc by Marc Jacobs. Shoes Burberry. Jewellery various. 21 i-D THE LARGER THAN LIFE ISSUE
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Skirt Prada. Bandeau Melissa Odabash. Shoes Burberry. Jewellery various.
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Dress Jil Sander. Shoes Burberry. Jewellery various.
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Dress Jil Sander. Jewellery various.
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Dress Michael Kors. Shoes KG. Jewellery various.
Bandeau Melissa Odabash. Skirt Prada. Jewellery various.
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Skirt See by Chloe. Bandeau Melissa Odabash. Shoes KG. Jewellery various.
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Bandeau Melissa Odabash. Skirt See by Chloe. Jewellery various.
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Top Christopher Kane. Jewellery various.
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Bandeau Melissa Odabash. Skirt Prada. Jewellery various.
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Dress Marc by Marc Jacobs. Jewellery various.