Pack Your Bags!

There's more to Minneapolis than meets the eye

WORDS BY TWYLA CAMPBELL

PHOTOGRAPHY SUPPLIED

The changing colours of foliage throughout Minnesota this time of year offer up a spectacular palette of comforting hues. Leaf chasers looking for prime photo ops will be checking the state’s Fall Color Finder for daily updates through September and October. Known as the Land of 10,000 Lakes, this Upper Midwestern state overflows with scenic vistas, so if that’s your travel vibe, you better get packing.

The Mississippi River separates the two most populous cities, Minneapolis and Saint Paul. If you like bridges, the Twin Cities, as they’re collectively known, have over 20 for your viewing, strolling and photographing pleasure. And because all twins appreciate some form of autonomy, these pages will focus on Minneapolis, a city I haven’t stopped thinking about since my first visit. With direct flights now available from my hometown of Edmonton, Alberta, and at just over 2.5 hours in the air, a return trip (this time to explore the state capital, Saint Paul) is in the works.

The culinary scene in both cities is off the charts. In Minneapolis, several award-winning chefs have restaurants, some of which include Ann Kim of Young Joni and Pizzeria Lola; Gavin Kaysen of Mara, and Spoon and Stable; Sean Sherman of Owamni; Christina Nguyen of Hola Arepa and Hai Hai; and Yia Vang, of Vinai and Union Hmong Kitchen. But, for as many newly minted and highly lauded chefs that open new restaurants every year, there is an old guard that deserves the same praise—like Kramarczuk's East European Deli, and landmark steakhouses, Manny’s and Murray’s, or the Monte Carlo, a ratpack-esque establishment that’s been serving classic cocktails, steak and seafood since 1906. The legendary cheese-stuffed flat-top burger called the Jucy (or Juicy) Lucy hails from these parts. Two restaurants lay claim to its invention: Matt’s Bar & Grill states the burger originated there, while the 5-8 Club claims their burger, the Juicy Lucy (with an “i”) was the first to appear on menus. The argument as to which one is better has been going on for over 70 years. You’ll need to go to both to decide for yourself.

When it comes to breweries, distilleries, cideries and cocktail culture, most cities twice the size would have a hard time keeping up with what’s happening in Minneapolis. An easy-to-use light rail system along with bike trails that connect paths and parks to pubs and pourhouses make sipping and sampling an accessible pastime.

In the 1800s, Minneapolis was known for its lumber and flour milling industries. Telltale brick structures of both industries remain in the Warehouse District (also referred to as the North Loop), with many of those structures now transformed into condos, boutique stores and restaurants. Definitely a neighbourhood worth exploring. Nearby, the downtown core maintains several buildings from the 1920s, many of which are linked by the Skyway System, a series of enclosed walkways that connect over 80 city blocks. You can spend an entire day admiring gorgeous Art Deco architecture and details while shopping and taking food and drink breaks along the way.

BY MATT LIEN

Prince Rogers Nelson, or Prince, as he was known throughout most of his musical career, is arguably the most famous Minneapolite. The late musician’s mansion, Paisley Park, in the suburb of Chanhassen, is open to the public for tours, concerts and festivals. Robert Zimmerman is another famous Minnesotan who grew up in Minneapolis. During college, he changed his name to Bob Dylan and began writing songs which he later recorded at venues including the Orpheum Theatre which he owned from 1979 to 1988. The likenesses of Dylan and Prince are featured in an impressive number of outdoor murals found around the city.

Cultural arts are strongly rooted here with the Minneapolis Institute of Art, the Walker Arts Center, the American Swedish Institute, and the Museum of Russian Art as venues to explore for music, theatre and visual arts. The Minnesota Orchestra plays downtown at Orchestra Hall, a venue surrounded by restaurants and hotels. Fly in for the weekend for fantastic music, food and drink? Totally doable. If you go now, you’ll experience the colourful wonder of the foliage and mild autumn temperatures of the midwest, but…if you go in winter, specifically from January 23 to February 2 of 2025, you can take in the Great Northern, an annual 10-day festival of indoor and outdoor events that organizers promise will invigorate both body and mind. Take a dip in a hot tub and then scoot down a snowy path to the Sauna Village at the Market at Malcolm Yards—at -15 Celsius, you’ll definitely feel invigorated.

Approaching winter with a celebratory mindset goes a long way in making it more enjoyable. Firepits, beer gardens and hot chocolate at outdoor events will temper the chill, but gearing up with toques, mitts, down-filled parkas and those sporty boots you just bought can also help. Fall has its sweater-weather cachet, but winter fashion is in a league of its own in Minnesota. Embrace it. You’ll want to be comfortable at the outdoor launch party, or while watching the ice carving competitions, the U.S. Pond Hockey Championships and the K-9 powered skijor races.

Indoor events are part of the Great Northern, as well, and include plays, short films, concerts, comedy acts, and dinner collaborations between world renowned chefs and some of the area’s finest food stars. The sessions on climate change held at the American Swedish Institute make one keenly aware that the winter season is to be cherished and protected.

In 2024, Minneapolis was named the happiest city in the United States, rated by the London-based research firm, the Institute for Quality of Life. Visit the city any time of year— yes, even in winter—and you’ll see why.

Recommendations

Top tier hotels: Hewing, Emery, Four Seasons

More award-winning food: Oro by Nixta, Khaluna, Porzana

Cocktail Hour: Gai Noi, Bronto Bar, Meteor, Prohibition Lounge (Foshay Tower)

Taprooms and beerhalls: Fulton, Utepils, Surly, Pryes, Modist

Minnesota winter wear: Chopper Mill (in-store), Askov Finlayson (online), Steger Mukluks (online)

www.minneapolis.org