Monsoon Bistro & Bar

A full-on sensory experience with a heaping helping of wholesome hospitality

WORDS BY TWYLA CAMPBELL

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIN WALKER

With every dish I order, every cocktail I try and every interaction I have with the staff at Monsoon Bistro & Bar, I learn more about the food, the culture and the connection we have, as humans, to each other. Each of my visits has felt like an adventure, and when it comes to food experiences, I appreciate that.

The food served at this southside gem is Northern Indian and reflects the upbringing of its owner, Goldie Hazrah, who hails from a small village in Punjab. The chefs she employs craft the dishes from recipes handed down through the generations.

“Food is how we talk to people,” explains Hazrah. “There is passion and honour in the dishes. Heat and spices come together to make something beautiful. We share knowledge and experience with customers. It’s a lot of fun.”

I could rattle off a long list of things I love about Indian food, but what many might not know is how accommodating it is for people with dietary restrictions. There are as many dishes for vegetarians, vegans and people with lactose and gluten intolerance as there are for omnivores that can stomach everything from nuts to shellfish and every protein in between.

For starters, you’ll want to try the Delhi wali aloo tikki (crispy potato cakes filled with chickpeas), the crunchy Brussels sprouts, or anything with paneer, a non-melting soft cheese that works in a variety of preparations, from curries to kababs. The glass of Christian Nett riesling that Hazrah suggests to pair with the marinated paneer kababs is a perfect choice—and on that topic, the wine list at Monsoon’s is also something to appreciate.

“It can be a challenge to pair wine with spicy food,” Hazrah says, explaining that many wines will elevate the spiciness, so knowing which wines work and which ones don’t is important. The wine selection at Monsoon is refreshingly thoughtful with nearly four dozen intentionally selected wines from around the world.

The cocktail list is interesting, as well. Many of the drinks are named after Bollywood films, and while I’ve never watched Sharabi, Tamasha or Gabbar is Back, I can tell you firsthand that their liquid namesakes are fantastic. If a classic Old Fashioned is more your style, you can have yours made with rum, bourbon or whisky. Along with visual drama, an applied smoke technique adds both flavourful and aromatic elements to the drink.

Heady smells and big flavours are all part of the package here. Spice mixes are crafted in-house using whole, fresh spices that are blended and toasted before being incorporated into other ingredients. Expect the deliciousness of cardamom, fenugreek and cumin to be ever-present.

For all the dishes I’ve enjoyed at Monsoon, I struggle to find a favourite. Currently, I’m torn between the lal maas (lamb cooked in a rich gravy) and the jumbo prawns in creamy cardamom-infused “Malai” sauce. The street-style chicken in fresh fenugreek also rivals for first spot, but so does the Punjabi-style goat curry called bakra. And yes, there is butter chicken on offer, this one from the chef’s family recipe which requires the meat to be first marinated, and then cooked in the tandoor before being placed on top of the sauce, making it a “smoked” butter chicken. You’re going to need extra naan with this one.

Along with a very accommodating menu, the restaurant is also accommodating from a space perspective. The venue is divided into three sections: a small private section suitable for intimate dinners, a large dining room that is open and bright, and an elegant but cozy lounge that’s perfect for solo dining, date night, or a casual get-together with friends.

A seat at the bar allows you to grill the resident mixologist with questions about movie names, sugarcane and the spectacular collection of whisky that takes up an entire wall.

If you’re fortunate to dine on a day when Goldie Hazrah is in the room, lucky you. Her charm and grace are a pleasure to witness. That being said, the staff are a direct reflection of their employer, which speaks volumes. Perhaps what I appreciate most of all is their patience in answering my unending barrage of questions. I hope that continues to be the case because I still have about another 38 dishes to try, and I haven’t even started on the wall of whisky, yet.

Find Monsoon at 4485 Gateway Blvd., Edmonton, AB

WWW.MONSOONBISTRO.CA