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by for over 50 years “the bible” of the collector-car hob ld! Welcome to the greatest hobby in the wor
you will ent this publication, with the hope that Hemmings Motor News is proud to pres get. learn that there is a vehicle for every bud see how easy it is to join our hobby and many of with 2008 ust Aug in held we t an even The seed for this guide was planted at le peop like wanted to do something to encourage the hobby’s top leaders. Collectively, we us in the fun g a part of this great avocation —to join you —who have been thinking about bein and camaraderie of owning a classic car. cles, Classics, sports cars, trucks or motorcy Whether your interest is muscle cars, Full From ible. poss tion on as many aspects of the hobby as our goal is to provide you with informa r you for it , to restoring a vintage car, to preparing s deciding which car might be right for you term of sary to cover all the bases. There’s even a glos first car show, our editorial staff has tried ads in Hemmings Motor News. that you might find while perusing the familyby that we know best. It’s inclusive, fun, We want to present the side of the hob you car y the indulge your dreams and own and enjo oriented, and surprisingly affordable to know you’ve always wanted. se-ins, involved. There are more car shows, crui There’s never been a better time to get r you , get to enjoy than ever, so dive into this book concours, swap meets and other events be a part of this hobby today. questions ready and get out there and our if it weren’t for the generous support of This publication would not be possible help to y read ers you will find in this book. They are sponsors and the more than 200 advertis hobby. you with all aspects of the collector-car
Jim Menneto Publisher and President Hemmings Motor News the publisher dden without written permission from Reproduction in whole or in part forbi s New r Moto s ming Copyright © 2009 Hem
Vermont 05201 • 1-800-227-4373 222 Main Street • Bennington • www.hemmings.com
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
Table of Contents
8
Chapter 1
Getting Started in the Old-Car Hobby
What you need to find the car of your dreams
Chapter 2
Chapter 5
24 Transportation
Getting your new baby home safely
Chapter 6
12 What Kind of Car is Right For You?
28 Financing a Vintage Car
Exploring all the options in the hobby
You don’t necessarily have to pay cash for your old car
Chapter 3
Chapter 7
16 Vintage Car Insurance
32 Buying a Car Privately
It’s a whole lot less expensive than you think
Hemmings, want ads and car corrals all offer tons of opportunity
Chapter 4
Chapter 8
20 Appraisals and Inspections
36 Vintage Car Dealers
Nothing beats a trained eye when sniffing out a classic
Vintage car specialists allow one-stop shopping for classics
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Table of Contents
Chapter 9
40 Buying a Car at Auction
Old car auctions are in the spotlight: What to know when the bids are flying
Chapter 10
44 Do-It-Yourself Restoration
Chapter 13
66 Car Shows, Cruise-ins and Concours Now you’ve got your car, it’s time to show it off
Chapter 14
70 Detail Your Car Like a Pro
Give your classic car the shine it deserves
The basics about restoring your old car at home
Chapter 11
54 Working with a Restoration Shop
Chapter 15
74 Glossary
A list of terms you might find confusing when shopping for a car
What to know when you decide to have the experts restore your car
Chapter 12
58 Vintage Car Clubs
Chapter 16
94 Vintage Car Museums
A state-by-state listing of old-car collections throughout the country
Where to meet fellow car enthusiasts and benefit from their knowledge
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Chapter 1
Getting Started How to start enjoying the old-car hobby today!
By Jim Donnelly Photography by Richard Lentinello
R
cars decorated with brass and built before 1915. Abramson today occupies a hallowed place in oldcar history as the founding president of the Antique Automobile Club of America, the group he and Fiala started. Early AACA “national” meets were held periodically, often at taverns around the Philadelphia area, until 1946, when the meet moved to the historic site of the Devon, Pennsylvania, horse show. The inrushing of old cars rescued by their owners, plus vendors who wanted to sell them parts, quickly outgrew Devon’s grounds, though. In 1954, the AACA moved the meet to the Hershey Stadium, the hobby’s second pivotal event. Hershey, the biggest multi-day automotive event in the world of any sort, remains a can’t-miss happening for people who love old cars, attracting 2,000 cars to its annual AACA judged show and bringing in untold thousands more (either whole or parted out) seeking buyers; during its run, the show draws an easy 200,000 visitors.
eally, when you think about it, what’s the big deal about hitting a little white ball into a hole, or watching a fish thrash helplessly on the end of a nylon string? Anybody can do that. For a lot of individuals, those pastimes quickly get stale and frustrating. Not this one. If you get into old cars, on any level whatsoever, you’re not just preserving history—you’re becoming a part of it. That’s something special indeed; it’s a profound sense of bridging the ages that perhaps no other hobby provides with such consistent drama and lasting pleasure.
So who goes to car shows? Everyone. If you walk through a car show or big auction, you’ll find that interest in old cars cuts across virtually all demographic categories, although baby boomers probably make up the largest single group of enthusiasts.
How did all this begin?
Why should I get involved with all this?
Even though a lot of the cars are old, the hobby of collecting and restoring them is relatively young. There used to be a time, regrettably, when old cars were only something to discard, either at a junkyard or in the woods behind the family spread. Nobody thought about restoring them—probably because the auto industry itself didn’t have much of a history. Most knowledgeable people in the world of old cars, at least in the United States, trace the hobby’s history to a trio of critical occurrences. The first was in 1935, when a very small group of enthusiasts, led by Frank Abramson and Theodore Fiala, got together at a Philadelphia auto show and decided to create a club for people like themselves who were into old cars—which, at that point, were largely defined as
In owning an old car, you make a connection with the history of powered personal transportation.
Collecting old cars is an activity with a remarkable array of challenges and potential rewards. The most obvious prize in this hobby is pride in ownership, a notion that seemingly went out the window when cars became indistinguishable from one another, appliances you could drive. Over and over again, we at Hemmings hear from grateful car people, who tell us that owning or restoring an old car reinvigorates memories of what Dad drove when they were kids. Suddenly, it’s not just a memory anymore. In owning an old car, you make a connection with the history of powered personal transportation, one of the most potent, transformative forces in recent human history. Cars brought people together by allowing them to travel at their convenience, anywhere. This hobby
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Getting Started does the very same thing. Scores of clubs exist today for enthusiasts of veteran automobiles, trucks, motorcycles, historic race cars and even farm machines or heavy equipment. Membership ranges from tens of thousands in the AACA to a handful of folks who collect Czech motorcycles. Taken together, enthusiasts are a font of tribal knowledge about the history and mechanical foibles of their chosen favorites, plus a ready source of parts. They love shows, swapping knowledge and just plain old camaraderie. Everybody can relate to cars, so they’re an easy focal point around which to socialize and make new friendships that last a lifetime. You very rarely hear anybody knock a car person.
Don’t I need a ton of money to participate?
Not in the least. There’s a monied upper echelon to the car hobby, true, but it accounts for only a small percentage of the cars and people involved. The pages of Hemmings Motor News, just for instance, are chockablock with cars from a variety of eras, in a range of driveable conditions, that retail in many cases for $10,000 or even considerably less. No, we’re not talking about greasy cardboard boxes full of unidentifiable components, but real cars that start, run and can be enjoyed right now. There are segments of the hobby that can cost a lot of money. If your intention is to dabble in Full Classics of the 1930s, restored low-volume muscle cars and Ferraris, or if you won’t settle for anything less than a 95-point show car, then yes, cost will be a clear consideration. If you don’t mind dings, faded paint, or some missing or pitted trim here and there, you’re invited to the party. Just RSVP by bringing some enthusiasm.
I’m all thumbs. I couldn’t build a model kit. How can I do this?
See previous sentence. The world of collector vehicles attracts people with vast mechanical and presentation skills, as well as people with no skills at all. Can’t paint or tell a flat-blade screwdriver from a box-end wrench? That’s not necessarily a deal-breaker. Lots of collectors, newbies and not, get around
this by buying a complete car—and in our language, “complete” is not a synonym for “restored.” It means a car that has an engine in it, a body that isn’t perforated, and that (usually) runs. Sometimes, those cars are entirely original, even down to surface rust on the paint and frays in the upholstery, and that’s fine: One of the AACA’s most popular recent innovations is a certification category for fully original cars, one that gets bigger by the year. Truthfully, you don’t even have to collect cars themselves to get involved. In this world, some people gravitate toward building collections of books, advertising materials, scale models, badges and even oil cans, among other goodies. There are also thousands—thousands—of books on individual makes and models of cars, plus more on restoration techniques, so you’re never flying blind if you decide to buy or improve an old car.
...some people gravitate toward building collections of books, advertising materials, scale models, badges and even oil cans... Of course, if you want to learn, the car community provides boundless opportunities to do so. You can start small, and luckily, unlike today’s cars, those from the past are pretty straightforward mechanically, with comparatively simple fuel and electrical systems. Lots of cars can be restored primarily with the tools any hardware retailer sells. Once again, we come back to the involvement of others. When you embark on your first restoration, you’ll make new friends, guaranteed, and there’s not much car folks enjoy more than working on cars. What you don’t know, someone nearby will be willing to teach you. That’s the real value of this way of life: the relationships you make. In this guide, we’ll give you some tips on acquiring the car that’s right for you and help you get started.
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
11
Chapter 2
The Right Collector Car for You Have a game plan BEFORE shopping for just the right collectible vehicle Expectations
If you expect to hit the four-lane freeway for even a two-exit-long drive with your collectible, you’d probably be wise to steer clear of anything dating to much before the 1950s. Do you need power steering, power brakes and air conditioning? Then you’d better go newer still—those features won’t even feel remotely familiar to a modern driver if the collectible car in question is much older than, say, a 1965.
Fun Factor
There are some people who would rather build a car than drive it or even own it for a long period after the paint is dry. On the other hand, there are people who derive great pleasure from owning a collectible vehicle, maintaining it and keeping it until it becomes part of their estate. Obviously, there are others who enjoy all aspects of ownership. How much fun you have will depend solely on which type of person you are.
By Mike McNessor Photography from the Hemmings archives
At
Hemmings, we like to introduce newcomers to the shopping and buying process with a plan called BEFORE, which is an acronym for:
Budget Expectations Fun factor Ownership Reality check Escape plan
Whether you’re a first-time buyer or a seasoned veteran, by carefully working your way through each of these points, you can trim down the vast field of offerings to the specific years, makes and models that will best suit your taste and lifestyle. Here, we’ll give you a brief explanation of each point. After reading them over, grab a pen and paper, jot them down, and fill in your own thoughts. By the time you finish the exercise, you should have a good idea about which car, truck or motorcycle is right for you. One final word: Once you’ve got a clear picture of the car you’re looking for, don’t go off on a tangent and make a rash, emotional decision. Stick to your plan and beat the bushes for the right vehicle. It could take one day or it could take months. But chances are, the choosier you are now, the happier you’ll be in the long run.
Budget
This is the biggie for most people, which is why it’s in the numero-uno position. How much can you really afford to spend on a vehicle that you probably won’t want—or won’t be able—to use every day? Be Suze Orman-realistic here and budget an amount of money that you can afford to live without, even if times get tough.
12
Ownership
Owning a collector car can be a major commitment: Real-world stuff like storage, insurance, state inspections, registration, taxes, etc., are all part of the package. There’s also maintenance, repairs and restoration work to consider. You need to budget for this, and you need to be realistic about what you can and cannot handle. While collector-car ownership can be a worthwhile investment, improper storage, botched repairs and sketchy maintenance will whittle away at your collectible’s value as well as its driveability.
Reality Check
Can you handle the vehicle you’re considering (financially and physically, in terms of maintenance and storage) or are you getting in over your head? Is this worth what the buyer is asking, considering the work it needs, or would you be wiser to pass on it?
Escape Plan
One of the most important considerations when deciding on a vehicle is its future resale value—whether it’s you or your heirs who are going to be placing the ad in Hemmings. Just because you’re head-over-heels for a certain car, truck or bike doesn’t mean that a large number of shoppers will share your enthusiasm. Hey, we’re all about being individuals here, but as a general rule of thumb, less-popular makes and marques should be priced accordingly, regardless of their condition or history. You should have an outline of the vehicle that is right for you, and that outline should include a
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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The Right Collector Car for You dollar figure, a range of years and features, a ballpark idea of what kind of condition the car should be in, where you’ll keep it, how you’ll maintain it and why it will be a good place to park your money for a while.
Whether it’s a slick Italian sports car, a dyed-inthe-wool muscle machine, or a Full Classic, tracking down the exact vehicle that suits you is the fun part. Now get cracking—and happy hunting!
•
Questions to Ask: • What kind of cars do I like? You can be told all day long that a ’57 Chevy is the best thing on four wheels, but if it’s a tiny German sports car that really gets your motor running, the Chevy’s just not going to do the job. Immerse yourself in the hobby. Go to car shows, read magazines, join a car club. Something, eventually, is going to click, and you’ll know that’s the one. • How do I know what I can afford? Spend only money that you won’t need to live on. Remember, though, that purchasing a collectible vehicle isn’t like buying groceries: The money is just tied up, not gone forever. • Why is resale important to consider? See above. You might not want or be able to hold onto your collectible for a lifetime. Imagine what the next owner will want to pay.
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
15
Chapter 3
Insuring Your Collector Car Protecting your investment for a lot less than you’d expect mon category. New cars actually do qualify. Many collector-car insurers offer a “modern collectible” policy for cars that are expected to appreciate in value. Ford GTs, Ferraris, Corvettes and other cars with a history of appreciating, used under limited circumstances, are often covered this way. While the rates are likely to be similar, you’ll find policies for original, restored or modified cars, muscle cars, sports cars and American classics. Looking for a policy that fits your car can help get you an agency with specialists familiar with the issues specific to your car. Many insurers are very wary about accepting kit cars and replicas for which there aren’t accepted values.
If you think your car is a collectible, someone will insure it, but it’s easier if it fits into a common category.
By David Traver Adolphus and Craig Fitzgerald
W
hat many have been pleasantly surprised to find out is that collector-car insurance agencies are actually run by car nuts, who are not interested in making a buck off your heartbreak. Even better, insuring your collector car is dirt cheap. With at least a dozen companies competing for your business, you have the opportunity to figure out which one is the best fit for your needs. Before you can do that, though, you need to know what your needs are.
First Things First
Almost universally, collector-car insurers are very picky about whom they insure, what they’ll insure, and most importantly, how you can use your car. You’ll have to pass several hurdles before you even qualify for the insurance. Firstly, very few insurers will cover an inexperienced driver. Several require as long as 10 years’ experience since you got your license, or that you be at least 25 years old. Another piece of the “who gets covered” question has to do with less tangible things, all of which add up to, essentially, “are you a car nut?” Defining your car is one of the areas that can help you make your choice. Essentially, if you think your car is a collectible, someone will insure it on that basis, but it’s a lot easier if it fits into a com-
16
Use is the last criterion. The most common restriction is on mileage, with policies allowing annual driving from 1,000 up to 10,000 miles. Some policies explicitly restrict use to club or hobby-related events; almost all will deny you coverage if they know you plan to enter any sort of driving competition, and will void an existing policy if they find you’ve been on a race track.
Determining Your Needs
As we said earlier, collector-car insurance is dirt cheap. We know people who keep their old heaps legal for $50 a year, although the industry average is around $200 a year to insure a $10,000 classic. The majority of claims are for non-driving comprehensive loss. Those single-vehicle incidents may be expensive, but there’s no other party suing for damages. It’s important for collector-car owners to store their cars in a good-quality structure that is secure enough to limit access from unwanted people, animals and the elements, and to keep hanging items from damaging cars. Our insurance advertisers all note that many claims result from rakes and garden tools falling on a fresh paint job.
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
Insuring Your Collector Car Making the Call
Most collector insurance companies’ requirements for coverage are the same. They look for four photographs of the car (either digital or print, but uploading digital photos through online applications is a lot easier), proof of a registered and insured daily driver,
a safe, secure garage in which to store your vehicle, and proof that you meet the company’s age limits. Beyond that, it’s a simple phone call or e-mail transaction, either using a credit card or mailing a check.
•
Questions to Ask: • What is my vehicle truly worth? Insurers pay close attention to rising and falling values in the collector-car hobby. Average values are critical here. You may just have spent $44,000 for a TR4 at auction, but you may have trouble finding an insurer willing to risk insuring that loss. • What is “agreed-upon value?” Most collector-car insurers work with their customers to come to an agreement on a true value of the car in question. It’s a lot easier with a brand-new car that sells on any dealer’s lot for $35,000. It’s a bit different when a car’s value can go up and down a significant percentage just by what accessories it might have. Work with your insurer to find a value you’re both comfortable with. • How old does my car have to be? A “collector car” is certainly in the eye of the beholder. You may cherish your 2004 Toyota Camry, but most collector-car insurers won’t be interested in covering it. But age doesn’t have to be a factor. Your 2010 Camaro SS might qualify. Check with your insurer, and don’t be afraid to ask. • Can I drive it only to car shows and on weekends? Most policies stipulate that the vehicle can’t be used for daily transportation. If you intend to drive the car to work every day, you should seek out a more traditional insurance policy. But if you’re blessed with a beautiful, sunny Friday and want to drive your car to work, you can certainly do that within the limits of the policy. • Why do I need a garage? Most claims for these cars happen at home. The garage helps to prevent theft,
environmental hazards and the normal degradation a car suffers sitting outside all winter, even under a cover. • What else can I insure? Lots of things: fire trucks, muscle cars, vintage motorcycles and scooters, vintage trailers, street rods and even high-quality replicas qualify with certain insurers. The best way to find out is to contact the insurer directly and ask the question. And don’t hesitate to ask if you can add your newer collector vehicle to the policy if you don’t intend to drive it daily. • What might prevent my eligibility? Most minor traffic violations and accidents aren’t an issue, but if you’ve been convicted of a DUI infraction, reckless driving or excessive speed, you may not qualify. All licensed drivers in the household are generally subject to review by an underwriter. • Is there a deductible? No, but with an asterisk. If you’re insuring a collector vehicle with a model year of 1987 or newer, a deductible might be required. • How do I get damage appraised if I do have an accident? Most collector-car insurers use in-house claims adjusters who know classic cars, and aren’t writing a damage appraisal based on what it would cost to repair a 1995 Lumina. • Where do I take my car to get fixed? Most collectorcar insurers allow you to pick your own shop. If you’ve been working with a specific restorer, you can have any collision work performed there.
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Chapter 4
Appraisals and Inspections Help is available for sizing up a vehicle’s market value and condition Determining Your Needs:
By David LaChance
T
he world of automobile appraisals is filled with common misapprehensions and false expectations. No matter what you might have heard, an appraisal does not set the value of a collector car; it’s only the appraiser’s informed opinion of what a car is worth. Appraisers cannot authenticate a vehicle—in other words, they can’t tell you beyond a reasonable doubt whether a car is what it’s claimed to be. And not one collector-car insurer that we’re aware of requires appraisals as a matter of course.
First Things First
Let’s take that last point first, since it seems to be the source of the greatest amount of misunderstanding. Collector-car insurers generally work under the “agreed value” system, where they and the owner come to an agreement on exactly what a car is worth. Insurers put a lot of work into following the market values of collector cars, monitoring auction sales and a variety of price guides; they generally have a very good idea of what any particular car is worth on the open market. But wouldn’t an appraisal be necessary for a very special car, one with, say, celebrity ownership or highly original features? Not really. Collector-car insurers are open to negotiation, and pretty much function as their own appraisers in special cases. An insurer might ask for an appraisal if an owner is claiming an unusually high value for a car—we’re talking off the scale here—but that’s rare.
20
So, when is an appraisal needed, then? Usually, it’s during a period of transition, particularly when a court is involved, such as during the division of assets in a divorce or the settlement of an estate. Even here, it’s important to remember that an appraisal does not determine a car’s value; the court alone has the power to set the value, and can make its own determination. (This prevents an unscrupulous heir from fraudulently claiming that late Uncle Fred’s Auburn Speedster was worth $1,000, and should be taxed accordingly.) Banks, too, can want an appraiser’s opinion if they’re asked to loan money for a purchase, or make a loan using a collector car as collateral. Finally, some appraisals are done just to satisfy an owner’s curiosity—it’s less expensive and easier than sending a car across an auction block with an impossibly high reserve. The actual appraisal involves a firsthand, thorough examination of the vehicle, including its equipment and condition. Often, because the car and the appraiser are in different cities, or even different regions of the country, appraisers will travel to examine a car, charging an additional fee, depending on the distance involved. All available paperwork, such as service records and documented vehicle history, will be examined, and the vehicle will be driven, if possible. Then the appraiser will research the sales history of similar vehicles to come up with an opinion about the car’s fair market value, which is defined as what a willing buyer would pay to a willing seller in a free market. The findings, and photographs from the vehicle inspection, are compiled into a multi-page report provided to the client. A good appraiser will also hold onto a copy of the report for safekeeping.
Appraisals versus Pre-Purchase Inspections
Appraisals should not be confused with a second type of evaluation process, the pre-purchase inspection; this concerns not a car’s value, but its condition. An inspector can tell you whether the frame is rusted, what kind of condition the engine is in, and whether all of the accessories work. What an inspector cannot do is look into a crystal ball and determine if some component is about to fail; also, like the appraiser, the inspector cannot authenticate a vehicle, or determine mileage beyond a reasonable doubt. Why not just take the seller’s word for it when it comes to a car’s condition? Most sellers are honest,
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
Appraisals and Inspections but there can be honest differences of opinion when phrases like “runs well for a 1953 car” start getting tossed around. An inspection protects both the buyer and the seller from post-purchase surprises. It’s entirely possible to do a thorough prepurchase inspection on your own, but third-party inspections can be an excellent idea, especially when buying a car at a distance. It’s all too common for a buyer to be disappointed when a car turns out to be in worse condition than photographs and a seller’s assurances led them to believe.
While there is no real substitute for personally going over a car you’re interested in buying, there are individuals and companies that do inspections as a business, or a sideline; also, members of the local chapter of a marque club will often be willing to help. Club members can bring enormous amounts of knowledge about a particular car, but don’t make the mistake of relying on them to place a value on a car— few enthusiasts closely track market values. Hire a professional for an inspection, and you can expect a comprehensive written report with photographs.
•
Questions to Ask: • How much does an appraisal cost? It depends on how far the appraiser has to travel to see the car and how much research has to be done, but expect a fee of at least $350 to appraise one car. ª How often should an appraisal be done? Every three years is a good rule of thumb, and more frequently when there are sharp movements in the collector-car market. • I’m looking at a car that a private seller has had appraised. Is that a fair price to pay? That’s entirely between you and the seller. If a seller is relying on an appraisal, get a look at the report. Find out what the basis for the appraisal is, when it was done, and who was doing the appraising. If the value is wildly out of whack with current market values, find out why. • How far can an appraiser go in authenticating a car? Not much further than an educated opinion, which is not the same thing as fact. Unless you’re prepared to put Matlock on the case, expect that the appraiser will have to rely on information supplied by the seller. An appraiser can report a car’s indi-
cated mileage, but has no way of knowing if that’s 100 percent accurate. • How do I choose an inspector? As with the appraisal, there’s no state licensing that we know of; anyone can offer their services for a price. Again, find out about their experience and credentials, and ask for references. • How much does an inspection cost? If you hire a professional, expect to pay about $350 or so, more if significant travel is involved. Car club members will often do the job for their costs. • How important is expertise with a particular marque? Not as important as you might expect. What seems to matter most is having looked at a large number of collector cars. • What are the limits of the inspector’s legal liability? That’s a question for a lawyer. If the car you bought with a clean bill of health turns out to have a rotted frame, that’s one thing, but if the radio quits working after a week, that’s another.
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Chapter 5
Transporting Your Collector Car How to select the right transporter to bring your collector car home dually trucks and one-car open flatbed trailers, to the big names in the industry with their enclosed, double-decker trailers.
Determining Your Needs
First decide what kind of transportation you need, and be realistic about it. Enclosed transporters cost more than open transporters, for example. But you don’t need an enclosed trailer for the project car that’s just headed across the state to a resto shop; vice versa, you don’t want an open trailer for the finely restored #1 car you just spent six figures to purchase. Once you’ve settled on a budget, figure out how long you can wait for your car to go from Point A to Point B. The reality of transporting cars across the country means that the transporter has to move more than one car at a time. That means multiple stops and thus a longer wait. A more expensive transporter might carry fewer cars and cut the travel time, while less expensive transporters tend to take longer. By Daniel Strohl Photography by Tim Metcalf
Prepping for Transport
I
t’s not necessary to develop an ulcer over worrying about who’s going to haul your car and whether it’ll arrive at its destination in one piece, provided you’ve done your homework and contracted with a reputable transporter schooled in the fine art of hauling classic cars across the country. One of the first things you’ll find out about transportation companies: There are a lot of them. Many of them carry your normal, everyday cars for people relocating across the country, while many focus specifically on collector cars. There is also a wide spectrum of transporters, from guys with
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On your end, you should not let the car on the trailer without a pre-shipping inspection done by yourself or a trusted representative. Nor should you let the driver leave after dropping your car off without a post-shipping inspection. Pictures before and after to back up the inspections are advisable as well. Without at least the two inspection reports, any claims of damage against the carrier will be difficult, if not impossible, to prove. If the car is running, charge the battery and leave about a quarter tank of gas. Let the driver know if the car leaks any fluids and if it requires any unusual operating instructions.
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Transporting Your Collector Car Also, try to minimize the amount of stuff riding along with the car. If anything must ride with the car, secure it in the trunk and include an itemized list with the pre- and post-shipping inspections. Finally, you should feel secure shipping with your chosen company. Any uneasy feelings usually
Questions to Ask
mean there’s something you’ve overlooked for the sake of thrift or expediency. You’ll likely only use the company’s services once or just a handful of times, and saving a hundred dollars or a couple days of transit time isn’t worth the sleep you’ll lose worrying about the car.
•
• How much does it cost? “It depends,” is the short answer. Fuel prices, distance and door-to-door services can all add to the price.
• What is the company’s policy on deposits? Is it non-refundable and when does the company require the deposit?
• Does the company specialize in collector cars? If they do, they know not to handle your collector car like cattle headed off to market.
• What is the company’s payment policy? Strictly cash, do they accept money orders, do they accept checks or do they take credit cards? Do not ship with a company that demands payment in full before the car is dropped off.
• Does the company have a U.S. Department of Transportation number? Federal regulations require a USDOT number for interstate commerce, and 25 of the 50 states require all commercial vehicles to obtain a USDOT number. • Does the company have comprehensive insurance that covers its cargo as well as its truck and trailer? Have the company mail or fax you a copy of its insurance policy. $100,000 liability on transported vehicles is common.
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Chapter 6
Vintage Car Financing Don’t want to break the bank? Finance that collectible
By Jim Donnelly
I
f it’s available for sale, somebody out there wants to help you buy it. The statement is equally valid whether you’re discussing a washer-dryer combo or a rolling automotive artifact. Specialized financing—or, perhaps more accurately, the offering of purchasing options for specialized buying—has actually existed for quite a while. Some of the world’s oldest and most august auction firms, which have little to do with cars, have long had in-house services to help bidders obtain works of fine art. It’s only much more recently, however, that financing has become commonplace in the world of older cars, trucks and motorcycles. As with any other kind of consumer purchase, collector-car financing translates directly into added buyer options. From the lender’s standpoint, classic cars are good business: The car usually goes up in value, which means a ready base of potential customers, and the rules keep risk for all parties at an acceptable level. Whether you find a lender online, at a car show or at an auction, you can usually count on a suite of similar services: long-term consumer loans to credit worthy borrowers who’ve managed to steer clear of major insolvencies in their recent past. Just like purchasing a home, you’ve got to have some level of equity in a classic car when you make the deal; putting 10 to 20 percent down is commonplace. The repayment period is different, too, running from 60 to 84 months—in some cases, the finance period can last up to 12 years. At this point, the approval and lending process diverges from everyday consumer lending. As we’ve noted, there’s no such thing as financing a collector vehicle, regardless of its price, with nothing down. This industry simply won’t accept borrowers who
28
can’t buy a piece of the car from the very outset. That ability speaks to the borrower’s creditworthiness, which is critical to any one of these transactions. Many firms offering specialty financing will insist on a credit score of at least 700, as provided by one of the three major credit-reporting agencies, Equifax, Experian and TransUnion. Commonly called your FICO, or Fair Isaac, score, a credit rating of 800 or more is considered nearly perfect. Anything under 600 indicates a credit history seriously damaged by delinquencies, charge-offs or bankruptcy. This type of lending is considered to be a credit loan, rather than a collateralized loan. The collateralized loan is the sort of deal you make when you’re buying a new car from a dealership: It’s a secured loan, but the security comes from elsewhere, such as any real property you may own, your bank account or your predicted future earnings. In a credit loan, the collateral is your own ability to pay, as determined through your credit score. Interestingly, even though you’re seeking to buy a landmark car, the car itself isn’t usually considered collateral. Regardless of the amount of the loan, the loan terms are often highly borrower-friendly. First, the average percentage rate of interest on the loan can range from a half-percent above the prime lending rate to a few points above it. Repayment periods generally start at 60 months. For a $15,000 car, assume that you’ll put down $2,500. Payments on the remaining principal of $12,500 should run around $185 a month, depending on the interest rate and number of payments you lock in. Another option is to lease a collector car, keep it for a few years, and then literally turn it in for a different one, pursuant to the lease’s terms. There’s a less-than-obvious side benefit: You can lease a nearly perfect car, drive it for awhile and never have to undertake the normal restoration-related work if that’s not your thing. Making a lease work for you involves reading the contract. For some neophytes, the business model of an automotive lease is a little more complicated to understand. It’s based, in large part, on the vehicle’s value at the beginning and end of the lease—in many cases, lessors require that the car be worth at least $25,000. There’s an agreed or “residual” value to consider, analogous to normal financing, which assesses the vehicle’s expected value when the lease ends, nominally in four to six years; five is the industry average. There’s typically restriction on allowable driving miles.
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Vintage Car Financing Again, your credit score counts. You will pay an upfront fee plus monthly charges. When the lease ends, you can pay the residual and keep the car, sell it and keep what’s left after you pay the residual, or transition into another collector car. The concept is called lease-to-own, and is structured like a balloon note, which typically allows smaller monthly payments.
Leasing does entail one significant advantage over other buying options: Tax advantages do exist, especially if the vintage car is leased in the name of a business. The sales tax may be due immediately, but in most states, it’s based on the amount of the monthly payment, which allows the lessee to have that money available over the term of the lease.
•
Questions to Ask: • How much of a down payment do I need?
”No money down” isn’t going to get you collector-car financing. Banks are looking for you to be staked in the investment. 10 to 20 percent is typical, but that can change, depending on your lender.
• How much interest will I have to pay?
Rates vary, but are generally pegged to the prime lending rate. Two percentage points above isn’t uncommon.
• What kind of terms are available?
Terms are generally available up to 12 years in duration.
• What should my credit score be?
Most specialty financers are looking for a FICO score of 700 or higher.
• How much can I borrow?
The industry average is somewhere around $100,000, but loans can range from $10,000 to $500,000, depending on your credit score.
• Is refinancing available?
Yes. If you’ve previously financed a vintage car with an unsecured credit card loan or a home equity loan, you can refinance with a specialty financer.
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Chapter 7
Buying a Car in a Private Sale Opportunity is knocking in your hometown
tend to appear in the latter half of the week, usually in the Friday, Saturday and Sunday editions. Other sources include national club publications or monthly multi-make publications specializing in the collector-car hobby as a whole, such as Hemmings Motor News. A national publication offers a broader range of vehicles for sale from hundreds of locations across the country, which means that you’ll have less trouble finding that one special car. In recent years, the Internet has become a quick point-and-click source, offering just as much national coverage as traditional print publications. As a result, many print publications, including Hemmings Motor News, are entering the digital age by offering online digital subscriptions. One final place to look for your collector car is a local, regional or national car show or swap meet. Larger events consistently include a car corral, an area of an event specifically set aside for vehicles for sale. Words and photography by Matthew Litwin
P
urchasing a collectible vehicle through a private sale is still the single most common method today. Unlike an auction, a private transaction is conducted between two people—eliminating the third party saves you 5 percent or more of the sales price by cutting out the auction house’s additional buyer’s premium. It also enables you to establish a short but personal relationship with the seller, which can become beneficial. As an example, discussing the vehicle one-on-one can help you determine just how open the seller will be in letting you test drive and inspect the vehicle more than once, or in negotiating on a purchase price.
First Things First
Finding a collector car or truck for sale can be as easy as taking a leisurely Saturday afternoon drive or keeping an eye out while you are running an errand. Generally speaking, peak season for spotting collector cars for sale occurs in the spring and fall, although this can vary, depending upon your geographic location. A more common method for finding a collector car is to search through the classified section of your local or regional newspaper. Most local papers have a specific antique car section, though vintage vehicles can be found listed alongside the numerous used late models as well. It should be noted that new listings
32
Estimating a Fair Price
There are several sources available to you that can give you a ballpark figure for what a car is worth, depending upon its condition. Old Car Price Guide and the N.A.D.A. Classic, Collectible and Special Interest Car Appraisal Guide & Directory are two such sources, printed monthly or quarterly. These guides, and others like them, list a high, average and low figure, or grade the cars from condition one through five, one being the highest. Another resource for determining a car’s worth is the opinion of an experienced professional appraiser. Having an appraisal performed will provide you with a fair estimate of the car’s value. It will come in handy after purchase when it comes time to insure the car. For more information, see Chapter 4: Appraisals and Pre-Purchase Inspections. Obtaining data on the specific car you’re interested in is critical. Not only does the car’s condition, make and model affect how much it’s worth, but the trim level and options of a particular car can make it worth more or less. Engine and transmission type and body style have the biggest effect on a car’s value, but other options such as wheel type and air conditioning can also affect a car’s estimated worth.
Buying a Vintage Car Long-Distance
The car you want might not always be within a convenient drive. While this may seem daunting to some, limiting yourself to a local car could prove disappointing. For instance, cars originating from a
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Buying a Car in a Private Sale dry climate typically exhibit fewer rust issues than those that might have been driven during the winter months in the northern regions. A good restoration can resolve most issues, but not every car receives the same quality of work, and not every owner is up for a big restoration project right off the bat. You must also reflect on your available budget when considering a long-distance purchase. Transportation costs, which we’ll cover momentarily, should be investigated before negotiating a price. It’s also a good idea to factor in the cost of inspec-
tion and registration, as many states have different antique car policies in place. Armed with information, arrive at the seller’s location with a high-powered—yet compact—flashlight, as well as a hand-held mirror. These two basic tools alone will be able to help you look at frame rails and shock absorber mounting locations. At times, there are tight locations to examine under the hood; these tools can help you locate fluid leaks. Consult with the notes you made on your earlier visit and reassess your findings before making a final offer.
•
Questions to Ask: • What kind of details can you provide? Not every ad will list engine size and transmission type; depending upon your intentions, this is a good place to start. Ask when the last time the fluids were changed and how long it has been since the car was driven. Discuss any potential driveline and suspension issues, or if any of the major components have been rebuilt. • How much rust is on the body or frame? Probably not a question of if, but how bad, especially if the car is in the Northeast. If the car was restored, ask when; don’t forget to inquire if any pictures were taken in the process. Another area of concern for some is if there were any aftermarket add-ons or modifications made to the car. • Can you send a few photos? As a friend of ours always says, “You can’t give a haircut over the phone,” but if you can see a few good quality digital photos of the car, you can certainly rule out a few cars without having to see them in person. • Can I drive it? Most sellers will let you test-drive the vehicle. A short excursion will tell you that it runs, but taking the car through a variety of driving conditions will tell you how it truly performs. Secondary roads will tell you how the suspension reacts. Highway conditions will tell you how the engine and transmission perform
at higher speeds. City driving is another way to check up on the engine and transmission, but it will also tell you about the car’s stopping capabilities. Once you’re done driving, jot down detailed notes immediately—recalling specific details later could be troublesome. • On a 1 to 4 scale, how would you describe the car? As a general rule of thumb, a condition one vehicle is one that has been subjected to a concours-quality restoration; it looks far better than anything the factory ever assembled. A condition two vehicle is one that has been restored, occasionally driven or well maintained, and bears few visible flaws. Condition three is generally considered a driver. Condition four and five are generally considered project and parts cars, respectively. • Can I have the car inspected by a pro? If the answer is no, you always have the option of walking away. But you can negotiate or offer to pay for the inspection or split its cost. You can also talk to a club member who specializes in a particular make and model; fellow enthusiasts can provide you with more specific information about a vehicle’s potential problem areas. A fellow club member might be able to accompany you and provide an opinion about the car’s mechanical and cosmetic condition.
Pantera and DeTomaso Enthusiasts Wanted! Whether you are new to the Pantera hobby or a long-time owner, PI Motorsports, Inc. has exactly what you need
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Chapter 8
Buying from a Classic Car Dealer What to know before visiting the professionals
the ones to avoid can sometimes appear as inviting as the dealers that actually provide reputable service, but by doing some homework in advance of an actual shopping excursion, you can ready yourself to spot the red flags, should any emerge.
Determining Your Needs
The good news is that there are plenty of honest vintage car dealers that can actually alleviate some stress for the newbie, and send you down the road in the car of your dreams. Some of these emporiums can even offer a broad range of services to help you, the new classic-car enthusiast, with every step of the process, from locating the desired vehicle to performing complete inspections and authenticating its claimed status; some can also help with having the vehicle transported, getting it serviced, and may even be there to take the car back in trade when you’re ready to step up to something else. By Terry McGean Photography by Jeff Koch
O
btaining your first collector vehicle can be an intimidating process, particularly if you’re just beginning to learn about the vehicles that have captured your interest. It doesn’t help that purchasing a collector vehicle is essentially a form of purchasing a used car, traditionally reviled as the realm of caveat emptor selling practices. As such, there is certainly tremendous potential for buyer’s remorse, particularly for the novice. Major concerns can probably be divided into two categories: Those having to do with the legitimacy of a particular vehicle’s pedigree and those concerning its actual condition. Discerning either one with any degree of accuracy requires knowledge, at a minimum, and ideally, experience—that’s where the novice typically comes up short.
First Things First
Concerns over an inability to recognize the difference between fine machinery and a patched-up wreck may lead the first-time collector-car buyer to a classic car dealership in the hopes of finding a higher grade of vehicles and, with luck, more scrupulous selling practices. It’s a logical strategy, though not necessarily foolproof, as not all classic-car dealers are alike; sadly, some are little more than old-time used car hawkers with vintage wares to peddle. Unfortunately,
36
What Are You Looking For?
Before you start shopping for a collector car, you should probably have a fairly narrow idea of what it is you want to buy (See Chapter 2: What Kind of Car is Right for You?) Walking into a classic-car dealership and waiting for something to catch your eye is not the best plan—you’ll want to be informed on the particular makes and models that you could potentially purchase, and that means doing some research before walking through the door.
Arm Yourself
You’ll find that there’s an often-detailed background for every type of specialty vehicle, which may include elements of the model’s history; details on the engines, transmissions and other major driveline components that were offered; insights into any body or drivetrain codes and what they represent; locations of the factories that built the vehicles and why that might be significant, and other pertinent information specific to that particular vehicle. You should know what was offered and what might make one example of that model more valued than another. You should also be able to determine, at least to some extent, if the vehicle in question is as its maker intended, or if someone altered it along the way. It’s also wise to familiarize yourself with current values by checking guides like the N.A.D.A. Classic, Collectible, Exotic and Muscle Car Appraisal Guide & Directory (make sure your copy is up to date— this is published three times a year), listings in current classified ads, recent auction sales and the like.
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
•
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inor Prestige Automobiles, Inc. has been in existence since the spring of 1982. Our enthusiasm and passion for the hobby started in the mid sixties. We’ve bought and sold many cars for enthusiasts across the country, around the world, and a few cars from our private collection when the desire to acquire something different has surfaced. Sinor Prestige Automobiles is not our principal source of income, but rather a passion that we have for the hobby and the automobiles. As a result, we’re able to be very selective and focused with the cars we represent. Naturally, spending years as an enthusiast before forming our corporation led us through many marques, and we do lean heavily toward the Corvette. But, along the way we have owned, collected and shown many. If you’re shopping for an enthusiast car, selling your pride and joy, or simply need an appraisal, we can help! For us it will always be a hobby!
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37
Buying from a Classic Car Dealer Questions to Ask: • How do I find a classic car dealer? Any publication featuring classified ads for vintage cars will likely have classic dealer advertising—Hemmings Motor News has many dealers that advertise regularly. Hemmings.com and the Internet are also good places to search, and old-fashioned word-of-mouth referrals from people you trust still make an excellent starting point. • How do I know if a dealer is reputable? The old standby of checking with the Better Business Bureau applies here, but don’t write someone off simply because they’re named in a BBB complaint. Instead, look for multiple complaints over the same issues; if your dealer is named repeatedly for the same problem, look elsewhere. • How long has the dealer been in business? Longevity is another good indicator in this business—the same people selling cars from the same business for many years are likely creating a trail of satisfied customers; if not, they’ve probably built a widely known reputation for questionable practices, which shouldn’t be hard to reveal by asking around or searching online. Is the dealer licensed and bonded? It’s a good sign, though this is actually mandated in some states. • Can a dealer find the car I want? Some classic car dealers are willing to search for the make and model of your desire, and even seek out the colors and options you want. Some even maintain a database of vehicles represented by other dealers, while others will track down the car you seek using a variety of other sources. • Will the dealer provide documentation/authentication on the vehicle? This will most likely be handled on a case-by-case basis, as the amount of available documentation varies with each individual vehicle. However, the more valuable the vehicle is, the more important documentation is, because much of the car’s worth will hinge on proof that it was built in its current configuration by its original manufacturer, that
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it has its original components, and so on. If the car you want to buy is valued as it is because of particular attributes, like a numbers-matching drivetrain, then tangible proof should be provided. These days, a lack of paper often negates the value of the claimed attribute. For particularly valuable cars, strongly consider hiring an expert to authenticate the vehicle in question; the fee could be well worth it if the car turns out to be a phony. • Can I have a third party inspect the vehicle? Most dealers offering vintage vehicles will accommodate requests for inspections by the potential buyer’s specialist; in fact, if a particular dealer won’t allow it under any circumstances, it’s time to shop elsewhere. However, the execution of the inspection may vary. Does the dealer have a service bay with a lift on the premises? If not, can the vehicle be transported to another location for inspection? Who will cover those expenses? If the buyer is expected to shoulder these costs, will they be reimbursed upon final purchase? • What sort of warranty/guarantee will the dealer provide? While you’re buying a collector car and not something to drive to work every day, you may want some sort of warranty, even if it’s only for 30 days. Those first days with your new acquisition will be the ones that reveal most of its flaws, if any exist. In fact, if you do receive a relatively short warranty, make sure to use the car immediately to shake out any possible issues before the coverage expires. Some classic car dealers are now offering warranties from outside companies at extra cost. Most we spoke with felt that the typical 12-month/12,000-mile packages were worth the expense (often around $800$1,000 if the vehicle qualifies), especially for inexperienced buyers. In terms of the monetary commitment you may be about to make, the warranty cost can often be easily justified as cheap insurance against previously undetected issues.
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
Chapter 9
Buying a Car at Auction Do your homework before you raise that paddle, and you can get a good deal Getting a First Look
By David LaChance Photography by Terry McGean
T
here’s nothing quite like a collector-car auction to get an enthusiast’s pulse racing. Think of it: Dozens, if not hundreds, of cars in one place, each about to become the property of some lucky high bidder. An auction is the sort of place where anything can happen, which is why the high-octane spectacles in Monterey and Scottsdale make for must-see TV.
First Things First
All auctions, from the headline-grabbing megasales to the hundreds of low-key events that take place in every region of the country, have exactly the same function: They create a market that allows an owner to sell a car for the highest possible price before a group of qualified buyers. The process of putting together an auction actually begins months ahead of time. Auction houses put a tremendous amount of work into finding consignments, usually by taking out ads and communicating with known collectors with whom they may have done business before. It’s in the best interest of the seller and the auction company to get these consignments in as early as possible, so that potential bidders can plan accordingly.
Registering to Bid
Every qualified auction bidder has either a “paddle” or a slip of paper with a registered bidder number. Before you get one of these, the auction house will require you to actually have access to some funding. You can register either with a cash deposit, a personal or business check or a money order; more likely, though, you’ll register with a letter of credit from your bank, or some evidence of pre-arranged financing (See Chapter Six: Financing a Vintage Car) or some combination of the above.
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Most auctions will begin with a “preview day,” giving qualified bidders access to the consigned cars. For the bidders, this is the most critical part of the process, because it allows them a chance to gauge the car’s condition for themselves. Although auction houses try to present cars accurately and fairly, they take no legal responsibility for what the consignor says about the car. We can’t stress this enough: Do your homework. If there’s a car you’re interested in, decide just how much it’s worth to you, and don’t forget to calculate in the buyer’s premium, the percentage the auction house adds to the sales price.
Bidding on a Car
The auction arena can be an emotionally charged place, and it can be nerve-wracking to a first-timer. Do yourself a favor: Visit a few auctions without registering to bid, just to see how they operate. There’s a little art and a little science in the bidding process, and once you get over that initial sensory overload, you begin to understand a lot more about how the whole process works. On the day of the auction, the cars are presented for sale in order, organized by lot number. Cars are generally offered with a reserve—an undisclosed minimum sales price set by the seller, unless specified. Usually, each car is driven up onto a raised platform in front of the bidders, so that they can see and hear it run. The auctioneer will accept an opening bid, and encourage additional bids. If you’re a registered bidder and you indicate your interest in bidding by showing your number to the auction representatives working the crowd, you’ve just made a bid. If the reserve has been met (or if the auctioneer has convinced the seller to lift the reserve), the auctioneer will make an announcement, or say something slightly less direct, such as, “We are selling the car.” Often, once this threshold is crossed, bidding will gain a second wind. Once the bidding has come to a halt, one of two things happens. If it’s a no-reserve car, the auctioneer cries “Sold,” and the high bidder becomes the owner. If it’s a car with a reserve that’s been met, the same thing happens. But if the high bid is short of the reserve, the car is “passed,” unsold, and driven off the block. No one likes an unsold car, so in a multiday auction, a car might be sent across the block a second, or even a third, time in the hope that someone will meet the seller’s expectations. Other auctions allow sellers and bidders to strike deals in a “no-sale” lot. Immedi-
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Buying a Car at Auction ately after the sale, the high bidder is required to sign documents and pay for the car. The auction house will present the keys and arrange to have the title sent by certified mail within several days. The buyer is responsible for getting the car home; how quickly is spelled out in the bidder’s
Questions to Ask:
• How do I evaluate a car I’m interested in? This is your single most important responsibility, and it’s yours alone, not the seller’s or the auction company’s. Crawl all over the car. Look underneath for rust, leaks or damage. Open everything that can open; if it’s locked, ask someone from the auction house to open it for you. Check to see if everything works. Ask to hear the engine run; some houses will even let you take a car for a spin around the auction site. Ask to see all of the paperwork that comes with the car. There will often be other enthusiasts around who are familiar with the model; don’t be shy—ask for their opinions. Learn all that you can about the model before the auction, so you won’t be surprised when a missing emblem or a cracked window turns out to be impossible to replace. • How do I know what a car is worth? Check as many price guides as possible and talk to club members and marque experts ahead of time. Many auction houses allow free searches of previous auction results. Remember that condition is everything—the costs of plating, paintwork and rust repair can add up quickly. Look out for cars that have been sitting in museums—they can need costly reconditioning. • Why wasn’t the car I wanted to bid on offered for sale? It’s disappointing, but consigners can, and do, withdraw cars. Protect yourself by checking with the auction house a day ahead of time, to be sure the car you have your eye on will be there. • The car I just bought isn’t nearly as nice as it looked on the block. Do I have any recourse? Generally speaking, no. Few auction houses are going to be sympathetic if you didn’t take the trouble to look a car over thoroughly before bidding—and you can’t say that they didn’t warn you.
contract. Some optimistic bidders bring empty trailers; the really optimistic bring out one car to sell, and bring a different car home. Shipping can often be arranged right at the site, and insurance, too—don’t forget, that car is yours from the moment the hammer falls.
•
• What if I’m high bidder, but I don’t want the car? Can I take back my bid? Nope. It’s spelled out in the bidder’s contract you signed. • What if the car I’ve bought was misrepresented? This is where things get sticky. Remember, auction houses review vehicles for correctness and operating condition, but take no legal responsibility for information provided by the seller. Words like “believed to be” or “presented as” carry limited legal weight. If the seller is a dealer, and misstatements about the car have been made, federal code may come into play; with a private seller, state laws involving fraud may apply. Most often, what buyers think is misrepresentation arises from their failure to examine a car before bidding. Our advice: Avoid that road by doing your homework. • How do I know the seller’s friends aren’t in the audience, running up the price? The simple answer is, you don’t. Auction houses don’t like to be associated with this kind of thing, although it has been known to happen that an owner will buy his own car back rather than let it sell for a too-low price. Your best protection: Know what the car is worth to you, and resolve not to let your heart overrule your head. • I want the best deal I can find. Should I go to a big auction, or a small one? You can get good deals at all kinds of auctions. Keep in mind that auction houses generally specialize; you won’t often find a seven-figure Duesenberg side-by-side with a $5,000 Ford. Check auction house websites and look at their ads; it will become clear who specializes in what. Bear in mind that you can sometimes get a buy by finding a fish out of water—an English roadster at an auction that’s mainly about muscle cars, for instance.
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Chapter 10
DIY Restoration Basics Getting started in your first restoration
Take as many photos as possible of everything you see: where wiring is routed, what gets mounted to the firewall, where the gauges are located. Read as many books and magazine articles as possible
Unless you’re restoring something really out of the mainstream, there are probably a number of books on your particular model, and there have surely been magazine articles written, accompanied by good-quality photos. They’ll help you understand how things were put together and how to put things back together after they’re taken apart. Craig Fitzgerald Photography from the Hemmings archive
W
hile professional restoration is a great option, getting your hands dirty on a project is what moves this hobby along. If we’ve learned anything in the years of publishing these magazines, it’s that with a bit of perseverance, good organizational skills and some thought beforehand, anybody can restore a vehicle. Here’s a list of things to keep in mind, along with a few questions to ask yourself:
Decide what you can do and what you can’t
If you live in a studio apartment with on-street parking, you might be able to paint your car in the alley, but it’s probably not a good idea if you’re looking for quality results and the sound of live birds. You might also look for a project that’s already undergone some restoration (engine work, for example), but still requires paint and upholstery.
You can’t take too many photos
These days, a digital camera is an absolute necessity when restoring a car. Even cheap cameras are of decent quality, and you don’t have to buy film and have it developed to see the end results. Take as many photos as possible of everything you see: where wiring is routed, what gets mounted to the firewall, where the gauges are located. These photos will help you put things back together when the car is finished.
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Bernie Olds purchased this 1954 Mercury to replace one that he owned decades earlier. He was a first-time restorer and painted the car piecemeal in his garage and driveway. Advice and help from friends helped Bernie finish the mechanical restoration.
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
DIY Restoration Basics Get a copy of the body and service manual
Most manufacturers supplied dealerships with a service manual (or set of manuals) on your particular car when it was new. These books are absolutely invaluable for learning how your car was built, and how it was intended to be serviced. Many of these books are being reprinted for a relatively nominal fee by aftermarket manufacturers, car clubs and other organizations. You may even be able to find them for free as .pdf files on the Internet, though keep in mind that these files must be in the public domain to be legally downloaded.
Nick D’Amato is a retired high school history teacher who had never worked on a car before this beautiful 1959 Alfa Romeo Giulietta. He called in experts to fabricate panels and help with some of the mechanicals, but performed the grunt work himself.
It’s often been said that you can pretty much take a mid-1960s GM product apart with a 9⁄16” and a ½” wrench, but we wouldn’t want to test that theory.
Invest in tools
It’s often been said that you can pretty much take a mid-1960s GM product apart with a 9⁄16” and a ½” wrench, but we wouldn’t want to test that theory. A comprehensive set of hand tools will make your life a lot easier. You don’t necessarily have to buy the most expensive set in the catalog, but a complete set of mechanic’s hand tools should include three different ratchet sets (1⁄4”, 3⁄8” and ½” drive), a full set of Standard American Equivalent (SAE) combination wrenches from ¼” to 7⁄8”, a set of metric combination wrenches from 7mm to 19mm, a range of Phillips and
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Determine specialty tool needs
In any restoration, you’ll find the need for a few specialty tools. British cars may require Whitworth sockets and wrenches. A set of snap-ring pliers is almost a must. Pickle-forks, gear-pullers and steering-wheel pullers may also be necessary. Before you
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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DIY Restoration Basics go out and buy these tools, look into either renting them or seeing if your local parts store has a loaner program. If you’re only using the tool once, this can save you a lot of money.
Be organized
Taking pictures is only part of the job. Fill notebooks with diagrams of where things go. Steal a box of Ziploc bags out of the kitchen and write copious notes on them in permanent marker as you disassemble individual components. Highlight areas of your service manuals that you think will be important when the car goes back together. Organize all your bagged parts in boxes so that you can find them.
Seek help when you need it
Invariably, there will be some part of the restoration that will trip you up. Instead of getting
Tom Gestwick not only restored this 1967 Buick GS 340, he is the car’s original owner. He’d never restored a car before, but undertook this task with care and confidence.
Questions to ask: • How much can I do? It’s your restoration. You can do as much or as little as you’re comfortable with. If you’ve gotten the car to a certain point, but aren’t sure about your bodywork skills, ask some questions and think about sending it out for bodywork and paint.
• How do I stay motivated? There are loads of stalled projects in the pages of Hemmings Motor News. The best way to keep yourself motivated is to try and do one thing every day. Even if it takes 15 minutes, it keeps your hands involved in the project. You’re moving forward rather than standing still.
• Do I have the space to do this? You can restore a car anywhere, but comfort, convenience and safety are certainly important factors. You don’t want to be rebuilding a Cadillac engine outside in January. Be realistic about the size of your project.
• How much is it going to cost? One of the nice parts about restoring a car yourself is that you can pick away at the project as you can afford it, rather than having to pony up a lot of money at once.
• What is a perfect first project? Generally, something with a sizable aftermarket is a lot easier to restore, simply for the availability of parts and services for that particular car. Motorcycles make a fine first project because they have a good aftermarket, smaller components, minimal sheetmetal and less area to paint. From there, you can apply your skills to larger projects.
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• Do I have to take the car out of service? So-called
“rolling restorations” can take years, but in many cases, if you’ve organized your tasks, you can spend a lot of time driving the car as you restore it. Keep the big projects like engine rebuilds, paintwork, etc. for the winter months and enjoy the car throughout the summer.
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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DIY Restoration Basics frustrated and dropping the project, seek out the assistance of someone who’s done it before. A great source is the Internet forum run by the car club for your particular marque. Folks who read these forums have been through what you’re going through, and are eager to lend a hand. They can even point you to local experts who might be willing to help out in person.
•
No matter how ambitious you get, there will likely be some work here that you will have to send out.
See the Experts Engine, transmission, differential, suspension, brakes, steering. No matter how ambitious you get, there will likely be some work here that you will have to send out, unless you’re planning on investing in expensive machinery. Engine: You won’t be able to overbore a cylinder or accurately shave material off of a cylinder head at home. Commonly, engines that have seen decades of service need to be overbored to remove galling and scratches in the cylinder walls. You might be able to get away with a fresh set of piston rings, but you’re usually required to step up to the next size of pistons (generally .030-inch larger than the original bore diameter.) You may also ask your machine shop to press wrist pins into your pistons, as this generally requires a lot of heat and a hydraulic press. Transmission: Manual transmissions, while certainly complicated, are at least understandable if you spend the time to see where everything goes and how it’s put together. Automatic transmissions, on the other hand, are something of a black art, and rebuilding one is better left to the pros. You’ll save a lot of money if you simply deliver the transmission and not the whole car, and you’ll make a friend if you degrease it before you drop it off. Like a clutch in a manual transmission, it’s a good idea to invest in a new torque converter when the transmission is out of the car.
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Differential: There aren’t many moving parts in a differential, but the way they are set up is absolutely critical. Most times, unless a differential is whining, leaking, or showing signs of broken parts, a fluid change is all that’s necessary. But if it looks like the diff needs some serious service, better leave this to someone who has the dial indicators and know-how to put it together correctly. Suspension: Most suspension components are relatively easy to rebuild yourself. Be warned that coil springs under tension can be very dangerous. You’ll need to rent, buy or borrow the right type of spring compressor to avoid getting hurt. About the only things you’d need to send out are lever-action shocks, which can be rebuilt for a reasonable fee. Brakes: Perhaps the most critically important subsystem in your car. If you’re unsure of what you’re doing, at the very least, consult with an expert. An improperly bled brake line can result in all your work being destroyed in a traffic accident. Steering: It is possible to align a car’s wheels at home, but for the few hundred bucks it costs to get a full four-wheel computer alignment, it’s completely worth the money. Your brand-new vintage-style radial tires will thank you.
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
Restoration Specialties and Supply Inc. was established
in 1974 as a small family business that specialized in hard-to-find supplies for the restoration hobby. The company supplied items for all phases of the restoration project from body webbing, fender welt, clips and fasteners, to hood lacing, windlacing, rubber products and window channel. At the time, we traveled to 20 shows a year and shipped packages to all fifty states. As the market has changed, so has the focus of our business. We still rely on prompt service and a very knowledgeable staff of car owners, but we’ve grown from a four-person operation to a company that ships worldwide with a staff of 15 . Restoration Specialties has still maintained a strong retail business specializing in the parts that are unique to our hobby. We have also branched out into the manufacturing side by making a number of parts for Chrysler, International truck and the hot rod markets. Our business also incorporates a strong wholesale network to allow our parts to be more accessible to the hobbyist. We are proud to offer a large line of parts that are still NOS or from the original manufacturers, and continue to provide new parts made in the USA. Our current line of Topcat Whisker window felts continues to grow and proves to be recognized throughout the industry. Look for us at an upcoming show or call and get our 220-page illustrated catalog. We will continue to be here for the restorer or rodder from start to finish on their project.
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
53
Chapter 11
Working with a Restoration Shop Communication and realistic expectations make for a great experience By Richard A. Lentinello
B
efore engaging in a restoration, think about the end product: what you want your car to be and how you plan on using it. Are you looking for a 100-point, concours-perfect automobile or a really nice street restoration? Whichever you choose, you must decide how you want your vehicle restored before your search for a restorer begins. There are many different kinds of shops, each providing a different level of work. It is important to choose a shop that values clear and accurate communication with its clients and is aware of the many unique problems involved in restoration work. Doing so will help you avoid conflict later on, or at least keep it to a minimum. Visit at least three or four different shops during working hours. This will give you a good idea of how a restoration shop operates and the skill level of its work force. Soon you’ll be able to separate the good from the bad. Avoid going to a local garage or body shop, even if they advertise a restoration service; they are geared to do collision work. These types of shops usually
Questions to Ask:
• What is your shop’s specialty? Some shops specialize in certain marques or nationalities.
are not set up to handle such lengthy projects. Like any business that relies solely on a skilled work force to produce a finished product (as opposed to a manufacturer or retailer), a restoration company is very difficult to run due to the extensive amount of hand-craftsmanship required to build and restore a car, which always limits the cash flow. To get the best job for your money, it is important to deal with a shop that specializes in your particular car make and/or model. No one knows everything there is to know about every type of car and all of its individual characteristics. When you think you have found the right facility to restore your car, don’t be afraid to ask the shop owner questions about his experience and the techniques he uses. Ask him about his background and how long he has been in the restoration business. Ask about his employees and their individual experience in the field. Take the time to inspect the workshop, and take a detailed look at the work being performed on the cars under restoration. The ideal restoration facility will have all the
the shop should be able to give you a pretty close estimate of when it will be finished.
• Can I see examples of your work? Reputable shop owners will gladly provide you with contact information for several of their customers. Spend time not just looking at the car, but also asking about how the process went.
• Does your shop charge an hourly rate, or a flat fee for a restoration? If your car is relatively common, it will be easier for a shop to know how much work to expect; if your car is outside the mainstream, expect that it will be an hourly job.
• Can I tour the shop? A good shop owner will be proud to show you around and explain the different stages of restoration.
• How much do I need for a deposit, and when will I be invoiced? Restoration shops vary on how much they need to get started. Some ask for a third up front, a third halfway through and a third at the end. Others will invoice you monthly.
• What work do you send out? Not every shop can handle every facet of restoration. Some act more as general contractors. There’s nothing wrong with that as long as it’s understood up front.
• Will regular updates include photographs? A restoration without photographs of the process becomes an unsubstantiated claim. Make sure that your restorer can provide good quality digital photos of the process.
• What can I expect in an estimate? An experienced restorer should be able to spend time with you to determine what a restoration will cost. Plan on that figure being low by about 25 percent to include • Can I stop in from time to time? Call ahead, but unforeseen circumstances. shop owners generally welcome regular trips to the shop. It lets them know that you haven’t dis• How long will it take? Depending upon how much appeared and that you’re interested in seeing the work your shop has in-house and the time of year, job finished. 54
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
FEN Restoration & Parts Supply
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Working with a Restoration Shop necessary tools and equipment needed to carry out its work in the most efficient manner with the best results. Besides standard hand tools, a bead-blast cabinet, lathe, half-ton press, metal brake, and a full complement of both gas and MIG and TIG welding equipment are essential items that every good shop should have. It is also important to inspect a couple of vehicles that the restorer has completed. Ask for at least three references from former customers. Call them and ask about their dealings with the shop. By knowing as much about the restorer as possible, you will know what to expect, which will let you negotiate the contract accordingly. Specialized restorers who have extensive experience with a particular model car or truck generally know how many hours of labor it will take them to strip and paint that vehicle, restore its frame and rebuild the suspension. This will allow them to charge a flat rate for each job because the work really doesn’t vary much from car to car. If extra repair work on the body or frame is necessary due to a car’s below-average condition, the customer will be charged for the additional work. Most of the big-dollar restoration shops that specialize in highly collectible cars, such as Packard, Mercedes-Benz and Ferrari, bill their clients for time plus materials, due to the clients’ ability to pay for a true, perfect, 100-point restoration. Being charged an hourly rate is the most expensive way to pay for a restoration. After both parties have agreed to terms, you must provide a deposit so the restorer can begin working. This not only shows your genuine interest, but it lets the shop start ordering the parts and supplies they will need during the next few weeks. The better-run shops will invoice you on either a weekly, bi-weekly or monthly basis, depending on what you have agreed to. Each invoice statement should include detailed labor descriptions, a listing of all purchased parts and a brief outline of the progress that is being made. Assuming the cost of a continuous restoration is beyond your means, you should set a budget with the shop owner prior to the start of the project. The
restorer will then work against advanced installments until all the money is used up. Should you take more than 30 days to furnish additional money, a nominal monthly fee for storage and interest charges may be incurred. This is only fair, as space costs money. One often-overlooked item is insurance. Although the law states that all shops must be insured, you really don’t know how much coverage they carry. It is therefore wise, especially if your vehicle is rare and highly valuable, to carry full coverage on the car while it’s being restored at the shop and while it is being transported. It is also important for you to take photographs of the entire restoration. This documentation will be extremely valuable later on; you'll need to substantiate your claimed ground-up restoration should you decide to sell the vehicle at a later date or if you need to make an insurance claim. Detailed photos showing the car before and during the rebuild are most important. The “before” photos will greatly assist the restorer later should any doubts arise about how to install a piece of trim or reassemble a particular component correctly. The photos showing the work in progress will prove how extensive the rebuild really was. Prior to delivering the vehicle to the restorer’s workshop, you should inventory each and every part of the car and note if it is good, broken or missing. This will help avoid misunderstandings between you and the restorer later on. Since restoration is a labor-intensive craft, cars and trucks can take more than a year to restore. A vehicle with a solid, rust-free body will take less time, of course, but it all depends on whether you want perfection or if you can tolerate minor flaws. It is also impossible to avoid delays waiting for parts that may be on back order. When your vehicle is complete, it should be handed over to you after the restorer has given it an extensive road test to see if everything performs as it should. The car must be satisfying to drive and provide the same level of responsiveness that it did when it was new, or even better. Only then will you know if the restoration was a success. Remember, a fine restoration is substantially more than just cosmetics.
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57
Chapter 12
Vintage Car Clubs Like-minded friends for good times and bad
Words and photography by David Traver Adolphus
A
few years back, Hemmings was asked how many car nuts we thought there were in the U.S. The only way we could think to answer that was to comb through club membership records and start crunching numbers. After about a week of that, our answer: About 2,000,000 people are in car and truck clubs in this country. That’s the population of Houston, Texas. Add in Canadians, and you’re probably talking Chicago. Double it with Europe. But if you asked a collector-car insurer, you’d get a much smaller number, because it’s not just car owners who belong—it’s also their families and enthusiasts of all kinds. Club membership is fun and doesn’t involve any obligation other than a couple of bucks a month, but the benefits can be huge. If you’re outside the hobby, your only experience with a club may be a movie image of The Jackals hot-rodders descending on the local malt stand for a night of hamburger-fueled mayhem. This is, in several substantial ways, not an accurate picture. In fact, there wouldn’t be an old car scene to speak of without a thriving club culture. Aside from auctions, almost every car-related event has a club behind it. Swap meets, shows, cruises, rallies, tours—everywhere cars gather, a club gets them together. Even major auto shows sometimes have club displays. The only question is, which one is right for you?
Are there different kinds of clubs?
If you’re really taken with a particular make, you’re probably looking for a marque-specific club or registry. For really popular cars, there are entire clubs devoted to single models, like the Buick GS, Lotus
58
Type 14 or Boss 302 Mustang. Others, like the Cadillac and La Salle Club and the Pontiac Oakland Club International (POCI), group smaller and closely related brands in with more famous ones. If you just like old cars, however, there are some great choices there, in the multi-make or open clubs. The big daddy is the AACA, the Antique Automobile Club of America. Headquartered in Hershey, Pennsylvania, the AACA maintains a museum and research library and sponsors some of the largest meets in the country. Anyone who likes old cars can join, and all cars over 25 years of age can appear at their shows. There are other clubs that focus on specific periods, like the Horseless Carriage Club of America (HCCA), which welcomes pre-1916 vehicles, or the Classic Car Club of America, which determines which 1925-1948 vehicles are called “Full Classics.” Then there are independent, regional groups. Small states may have a statewide open club, while a major metropolitan area probably has several of its own. Go to one of their meetings, and you’ll see a Subaru WRX STi, Ford Deuce hot rod and Dodge Dart living in harmony. All the big clubs are broken down into regions—the AACA has almost 400 local chapters, while the Alfa Romeo Owners Club has 46. You may have a choice between regional and national membership, or the two may go together automatically.
What do I get for my money?
Almost all clubs offer more than social activities. The larger clubs generally offer a good magazine at the minimum. The big ones have technical advisors, club members who are recognized experts on particular models and years and are available by phone or email to tell you how to fix that problem part. There are some whose relationships with manufacturers extend back in time, especially major American brands, and they often work with archivists at Ford, Chrysler and General Motors to make documents like old factory service manuals or drawings available. As an example, the Pontiac Registry has an agreement with General Motors to reproduce all Pontiac service manuals from 1926 through 1980. Many big import car clubs, like the Maserati Club and the Rolls-Royce Owners Club, work with their European counterparts to provide similar access to materials that don’t exist at all in the U.S. For instance, the Rolls-Royce Owners Club has over 500,000 pages of car history available to members, including data on almost every Rolls-Royce and Bentley imported into the United States since 1980.
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
Vintage Car Clubs So, what are the social activities?
We say it’s not all fun and games, and there is a serious and important side to club activities, but it is mostly fun and games. If there’s anything people who like cars like to do, it’s to get together with other people who like cars and look at each other’s cars, visit each other’s garages and shops, drive their cars and work on their cars. Aside from their monthly meetings, almost all clubs have an annual meet, with a big show, swap meet and other events. The national open and period clubs hold many regional shows and big driving tours, sometimes with hundreds of old cars over a week or more. National shows can attract thousands of cars if it’s a big name, while a small Datsun club might muster a couple of dozen cars as part of a larger Japanese classic car show. Clubs sometimes own their own cars, as well. Sometimes these are projects that the club brings to meets; often, a club will restore and raffle a car, either to benefit the club or a charity—clubs tend to be huge contributors to local and national charities and donate millions of dollars a year to good causes.
What else do clubs do?
At their heart, all clubs exist to keep cars alive. Single-marque museums like Pierce-Arrow or Franklin are all club-supported, and some are very proactive about keeping cars on the road. If more than one car of a make survives, there’s a club for it, and if another car turns up, the club will do everything it can to make sure it gets into the right hands. Often, clubs will pool their money to have their own parts made. If every ’49 Ford breaks its door handles and they’re not reproduced, the ’49 Ford Club will get together to have a new supply made, or the Ghia 450/SS Club will go to Coker Tire to have a few hundred of their correct 14 x 6.5-inch tires reproduced (we have no idea if either of these clubs really did this).
Where do I start?
The most comprehensive club database is at www. hemmings.com/clubs, but all you really have to do is walk up to someone with an old car and start talking.
60
Before you know it, you’ll find yourself in someone’s garage, looking at your new old car, backed up by a worldwide community of like-minded people who want nothing more than to help you get your dreams on the road. On the following pages, you’ll find a listing of some of the national car clubs supporting the hobby in America. If we’ve left any club out—and we’re sure we have—accept our apologies and know that we appreciate your efforts.
•
Clubs and Registries
For a complete listing of clubs and registries, go to www.hemmings.com/clubs
Alfa Romeo
Nash
Alfa Romeo Owners Club of America P.O. Box 12340 Kansas City, Missouri 64116 877-399-2762 Dues: $60/year; Membership: 4,300
Nash Car Club 1N274 Prairie Glen Ellyn, Illinois 60137 630-469-5848 www.nashcarclub.org Dues: $30/year; Membership: 1,700
Austin-Healey
BMW
Austin-Healey Club of America 110 North Rastetter Louisville, Kentucky 40206 877-5HEALEY www.healeyclub.org Dues: None; Membership: 3,800
AMC
American Motors Owners Association 1615 Purvis Avenue Janesville, Wisconsin 53548 608-752-8247 www.amonational.com Dues: $35/year; Membership: 2,000
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
BMW Car Club of America 640 South Main Street, #201 Greenville, South Carolina 29601 864-250-0022 bmwcca.org Dues: $40/year; Membership: 20,000
Buick
Buick Club of America P.O. Box 360775 Columbus, Ohio 43236-0775 www.buickclub.com 614-472-3939 Dues: $35/year; Membership: 10,000
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Auto • Truck • Farm • Construction e-mail: bjohnson@autopaper.com / 508-872-9173 Fax: 508-626-0991 / 92 Blandin Ave, Framingham, MA 01702
If You Love the Classic Era of Automobiles
This is the Club for You 1645 Des Plaines River Road, Suite 7 Des Plaines, Illinois 60018-2206 847-390-0443 ClassicCarClub.org
GTO Association of America Our mission is to preserve & promote the Pontiac GTO and offer enthusiasts opportunities to share their common interest. We do this by promoting and publicizing the GTO Association of America, our Chapters, and our members.
The Legend Continues! We want you to be part of the GTOAA by becoming a
member or by continuing your support to the legacy of the GTO and its heritage. • Annual GTOAA International Meet • Camaraderie with other GTO owners • Participate in shows, runs, tours, rallies • Access to Club Store • Special deals and savings through our Vendor Discount Program • Access to great technical resources and people affiliated with GTOAA • Monthly copy of The Legend, our Association’s full-color magazine • $35 per yr USA; $40 (USD) per yr Canada; $50 (USD) per yr all other countries GTO Association of America, PO Box 455, Timnath, CO 80547
www.GTOAA.org or email: PublicRelations@gtoaa.org
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
61
Vintage Car Clubs Cadillac
Cadillac LaSalle Club, Inc. P.O. Box 360835 Columbus, Ohio 43236-0835 614-478-4622 www.cadillaclasalleclub.org Dues: $35/year; Membership: 7,000 National Corvette Restorers Society 513-385-8526 www.ncrs.org Dues: $35/year; Membership: 15,857 Vintage Chevrolet Club of America 626-963-2438 www.vcca.org Dues: $30/year; Membership: 8,000
Ferrari Club of America P. O. Box 720597 Atlanta, Georgia 30358 800-328-0444 www.ferrariclubofamerica.org Dues: $85/year; Membership: 4,500
Fiat
Fiat-Lancia Unlimited www.flu.org Dues: $35/year; Membership: 500
Ford
Chrysler
Walter P. Chrysler Club Box 3504 Kalamazoo, Michigan 49003 269-375-5535 (fax) www.chryslerclub.org Dues: $28/year; Membership: 10,000
Citroën
Citroën Club of America 8585 Commerce Avenue San Diego, California 92121 858-566-2860 www.citroen-ca.com Dues: $25/year; Membership: 1,000
R o
National De Soto Club P.O. Box 50652 Mendota, Minnesota 55150 www.desoto.org Dues: $30/year; Membership: 1,600
Ferrari
Chevrolet
De Soto
Early Ford V-8 Club P.O. Box 16630 San Diego, California 92176 619-283-8117 www.earlyfordv8.org Dues: $35/year; Membership: 9,500 Model T Ford Club International P.O. Box 276236 Boca Raton, Florida 33427 561-750-7170 www.modelt.org Dues: $30/year; Membership: $4,000
oR so “
Jaguar
Mercury
Lincoln
MG
Jaguar Clubs of North America 9685 McLeod Road, RR 2 Chilliwack, BC, V2P 6H4 Canada www.jcna.com Dues: Vary according to location and include JCNA member Membership: 5,500 Lincoln & Continental Owners Club P.O. Box 570709 Dallas, Texas 75357-0709 972-617-8876 www.lcoc.org Dues: $30/year; Membership: 4,000
Lotus
Lotus Ltd. P.O. Box L College Park, Maryland 20741 301-982-4054 www.lotuscarclub.org Dues: $35/new; $25/year renewals Membership: 1,500
Mercedes-Benz
Mercedes-Benz Club of America 1907 Lelaray Street Colorado Springs, Colorado 80909 800-637-2360 www.mbca.org Dues: $45/year; Membership: 20000
North American MGA Register 7522 SE 152nd Avenue Portland, Oregon 97236-4861 www.namgar.com Dues: $30/year; Membership: 2,100 North American MGB Register P.O. Box 55 Whittington, Illinois 62896 800-NAM-GBR1 www.namgbr.org Dues: $30/year; Membership: 1,940
Oldsmobile
Oldsmobile Club of America P.O. Box 80318 Lansing, Michigan 49808-0318 517-663-1811 www.oldsclub.org Dues: $40/year; Membership: 6,400
Wescott’s makes them for Fords: 1926, 1929, 1931, 1932, 1934, 1939, 1940. Quality fiberglass parts & innovative fiberglass bodies with a steel cage.
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New England MG T Register Ltd. P.O. Box 50 W. Davenport, New York 13860 607-432-6835 www.nemgt.org Dues: $35/year, plus $15 initiation fee Membership: 4,000
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International Mercury Owners Association 6445 W. Grand Avenue Chicago, Illinois 60707 773-622-6445 www.mercuryclub.com Dues: $35/year; Membership: 1,500
Original fit, cast gearbronze, high quality replacements. Wescott’s makes them for many Ford cars 1926-1940.
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
Vintage Car Clubs Opel
Opel Association of N. America 13000 Ashtree Road Midlothian, Virginia 23113 clubs.hemmings.com/oana Dues: Free; Membership: 600
Packard
Packard Automobile Classics, Inc. (The Packard Club) P.O. Box 360806 Columbus, Ohio 43236-0806 800-478-0012 www.packardclub.org Dues: $40/year; Membership: 4,200
Pierce-Arrow
Pierce-Arrow Society, Inc. 2014 So. Timbers Hill Road Richmond, Virginia 23235 804-320-9272 www.pierce-arrow.org Dues: $37/year; Membership: 1,100
Plymouth
Plymouth Owners Club, Inc. P.O. Box 416 Cavalier, North Dakota 58220 Dues: $28/year; Membership: 3,500
Pontiac
GTO Association of America www.gtoaa.org Dues: $35/year; Membership: 4,000 Pontiac Oakland Club International 941-750-9234 www.poci.org Dues: $25/year; Membership: 10,000
Porsche
Studebaker
Porsche 914 Owners Association 100 South Sunrise Way, PMB 116 Palm Springs, California 92262 www.porsche914.org Dues: $15/year; Membership: 1,350
Triumph
Porsche 356 Registry 3359 Kings Mill Road North Branch, Michigan 48461 810-688-9090 www.356registry.org Dues: $35/year; Membership: 7,700
Porsche Club of America P.O. Box 5900 Springfield, Virginia 22150 703-451-9000 www.pca.org Dues: $42/year; Membership: 54,000
Rolls-Royce
Rolls-Royce Owners Club 191 Hempt Road Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania 17055 800-879-7762; 717-697-4671 www.rroc.org Dues: $60/year; Membership: 9,400
Saab
The Saab Club of North America P.O. Box 683 Middletown, Ohio 45044 513-423-9299 www.saabclub.com Dues: $40/year; Membership: 4,000
Studebaker Drivers Club, Inc P.O. Box 1743 Maple Grove, Minnesota 55311 763-420-7829 www.studebakerdriversclub.com/ Dues: $27.50/year; Membership: 13,000 Vintage Triumph Register P.O. Box 655 Howell, Michigan 48844-0655 847-940-9347 www.vtr.org Dues: $40/year; Membership: 2,900
Volkswagen
Other
American Station Wagon Owners Association P.O. Box 914 Matthews, North Carolina 28106 704-847-7510 www.aswoa.com Dues: $30/year; Membership: 640 Antique Automobile Club of America (AACA) 501 Governor Road P.O. Box 417 Hershey, Pennsylvania 17033 717-534-1910 www.aaca.org Dues: $26/year (inc. spouse); Membership: 60,000
Vintage Volkswagen Club of America P.O. Box 1016 Springdale, Arizona 72765 479-750-6380 7 a.m.-4 p.m. CST, Mon.-Fri. www.vvwca.com Dues: $28/year; Membership: 809
Classic Car Club of America (CCCA) 1645 Des Plaines River Road Suite 7A Des Plaines, Illinois 60018 847-390-0443 Dues: $55/year; Membership: 6,000
Volkswagen Club of America P. O. Box 154 North Aurora, Illinois 60542 www.vwclub.org Dues: $26/year, $20 renewal; Membership: 1,000
Horseless Carriage Club of America (HCCA) 40637 Highway 41 Oakhurst, California 93644 559-658-8800 www.hcca.org Dues: $45/year; Membership: 5,000
Volvo
Volvo Club of America P.O. Box 16 Afton, New York 13730 607-639-2279 www.vcoa.org Dues: $30/year; Membership: 4,000
National Woodie Club P.O. Box 6134 Lincoln, Nebraska 68506 402-488-0990 www.nationalwoodieclub.com Dues: $25/year; Membership: 3,000
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Chapter 13
Car Shows, Cruise-Ins & Concours Enjoying the true spirit of the old-car hobby
established judges, often members of the sponsoring club. A cruise-in can be a great place to learn about the pitfalls and advantages of owning a particular year, make and model of car. Owners look forward to sharing details about their car and how difficult, easy or expensive the restoration was.
By Jim O’Clair Photography by Daniel Strohl
O
ne of the best ways to get involved in the collector-car hobby is to attend a local car show or cruise-in. Car shows and cruise-ins are great places to look for a classic or muscle car. Although many car shows do not allow any advertising of cars for sale, owners may be looking for a prospective buyer for a sale in the future, or know of a car similar to theirs that is for sale by another owner. If you do find a car that is available, a car show is a great venue for seeing a prospective purchase in person and to talk at length to the owner. This buying experience is much more desirable than buying a car from pictures online or from a classified advertisement. So what’s the difference between all these events? Cruise-ins are usually short, informal events, with most occurring over several hours on a weeknight or single weekend day. Generally, cruise-ins are free to attend, either for spectators or for participants. Cruise-ins are gatherings of people who drive their classic or muscle cars on a regular basis or people who just like to look at cars. The cars displayed at a cruise-in are often parked by arrival time, and friends who drive to the event together can park near each other, making the event more of a social gathering of friends. Sometimes, awards are given in different classes or categories, but the more informal the event, the less likely it is to have awards; each cruise-in is organized differently, depending on the sponsor or organizer. Judging at cruise-ins can be limited to people’s choice or can be performed by
66
A car show is one of the best places enthusiasts can network with other aficionados: trading restoration secrets, parts sources and opinions about what is happening in the hobby. Generally more organized than a cruise-in, a car show is sure to offer some type of award. Car show judging can be a little more involved than cruise-in judging, and the judges usually look more closely at the little details. Correctness, quality of interior, exterior and engine bay: These are all important when differentiating a class winner from a nice classic car at a large car show. You will find that the more cars available to judge, the more discerning the judging will be, so consider this possibility when attending a car show. National car clubs, such as the AACA and others, sponsor many car shows, and class judging rules can be stringent. Many car shows are themed by make, model or nationality (Fords, Corvettes or British cars, for example), so a little homework before the event is recommended. Most car shows will also have a car corral with restored or project cars for sale and some parts vendors who have inventories of good used parts and new items. Need a fender for a 1949 Ford? A car show is a good place to find one, and you will save on shipping, too. At the very least, you can talk with vendors face to face and see their parts and services firsthand. A concours d’Elegance is a little bit different from a car show or a cruise-in, in that you will find a more consistent showing of quality original and restoration vehicles presented for more intense judging. Concours events often require that participants be members of the sponsoring club or organization or that they submit entry paperwork well in advance of the event. Cars on display at a concours are by invitation only, and are often the very best examples available. Judging is scored by deductions at all AACA-sanctioned events. All cars receive a point rating on each judged item, and then points are deducted based on the appearance (cleanliness, fading or pitting of the chrome, dings or dents, correct bolts, etc.). Other scoring categories include suspension, engine compartment details, wheels, instrument panel, paint, frame and exhaust.
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
A So-Cal tradition that goes back more than 30 years...... FAMILY RUN BUSINESS
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George Cross & Sons, Inc., promoters of the West Coast’s Largest Antique Auto, Corvette, Porsche, Street Rod and Volkswagen Swap Meet and Car Show is a second generation owner and operator family business which started in 1975 to meet the needs of the auto enthusiasts.
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Thousands of original and restored vehicles (many for sale, some just for show), from all across the country are displayed by their owners in five distinct Cars for Show and Sale areas: H Pre-‘ 75 Antique Autos H Any year Corvette H Any year Porsche H Pre-‘ 57 Street Rods H Pre-‘ 75 Volkswagens.
VISIT THE POMONA SWAP MEET WEBSITE
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The Pomona Swap Meet and Car Show is held seven times each year at the Fairplex in Pomona, CA. This event is one of the greatest family entertainment values in the southland. Come to buy, come to sell, come to look - See You There!
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Car Shows, Cruise-Ins & Concours One thing that all three events have in common? They’re great places to meet people in the hobby, and a perfect venue to find out what kind of car is right for you. It’s an opportunity to ask questions, whether about a certain make or model, some facet of restoration you’re interested in, a club you might be interested in joining or a restoration shop you’ve
Questions to Ask:
• Which event should I be going to if I am new to the hobby? You are always encouraged to attend each one as a spectator; however, if you want to enter your car, a cruise-in is probably the best place to show your car for the first time. • Are there minimum requirements to enter my car in these events? Usually there are no minimum requirements at a cruise-in, but you should check with the event sponsor.
•
• What can I expect at my first time showing a car? Once you arrive at the event, car show staff will direct you to the proper parking area and may separate you by the class in which you are entered. Many veterans bring picnic lunches, books or board games to keep them occupied during the judging process, but it’s most often a time to talk with your friends. • How can I find out when and where shows are happening in my area? One of the best resources to find an event in your area is through the classified advertisements in Hemmings Motor News. Every month, the publication devotes 40 to 60 pages of classified ads to upcoming events for the next month, broken down by state.
♦
MICHIGAN
♦
• Do I have to belong to a car club to enter a vehicle? Cruise-ins and most car shows do not require that you be a member of a car club to enter your vehicle, but you may encounter shows where some of the judging is limited to club members.
heard about. Take the opportunity and run with it. Car people are among the most informative, inclusive and friendly on the planet. If you are thinking of entering a car in one of these events, start by attending a cruise-in or car show before actually entering your car. Experience is the best teacher when it comes to showing your car and winning an award.
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Chapter 14
Detailing Your Car Like A Pro How to get your car ready for show season Inside
• Tools: Vacuum cleaner with narrow attachment Soft bristle brush Old toothbrushes Old kitchen sponge with scrub side Cotton swabs Cotton rags or microfiber dust cloths Shop rags Flat-blade screwdriver
By Mark J. McCourt Photography by Terry McGean
T
here are few things more pleasurable than admiring—and driving—a freshly cleaned vehicle. Whether your collector car of choice is indeed a car, or a truck, a motorcycle, van or tractor, the effort that it takes to “detail” a vehicle is certainly rewarded by the results. Consider the area in which you’ll do your cleaning; you won’t end up needing to move the vehicle in the middle of the process, and you won’t be straining to reach it with the hose or extension cords. Even shade will keep the paint cool, and an artificial light source that can be trained where it’s needed and doesn’t require hand-holding is also helpful for working in foot wells and under the hood. Detailing a vehicle can be a time-consuming procedure or it can be a quick and simple task; determining how much attention your vehicle requires and what you plan to do are the next steps. If it’s a dailydriven classic or is stored outdoors, there may be bird droppings or sap on the paint, and you may find tar on the lower panels and brake dust on the wheels. The interior may be dirty or stained and filled with wrappers, receipts and more. If it is a weekend driver or show car that is covered and garaged, the paint and brightwork could be clean, yet dusty, and these surfaces may exhibit swirl marks or scratches.
Exterior
A powerful vacuum cleaner is a great tool to thoroughly sweep the floor, door pockets and any pleats
70
• Supplies: Carpet cleaning solution Fabric-safe cleaner/degreaser Upholstery shampoo Leather cleaner/conditioner Rubber and trim dressing or protectant Glass cleaner Old newspapers for wiping glass Can of compressed air or crevices in the seats. Most shop vacs have optional accessory kits with crevice tools and small brushes for cleaning the interior. Remove stains with carpet cleaning solution or foam, the same kind used on house carpets. Scrub vinyl mats with soapy water and air-dry. If your vehicle has leather upholstery, give it good slatherings of leather conditioner and leather protectant to clean and feed the hide. A soft bristle brush works wonders for dusting tight corners, and a can of compressed air or cotton swabs dipped in interior cleaner will remove dust from vents. Crud stuck in the console can be removed with interior cleaner and a flat-blade screwdriver wrapped in a shop rag. The dash top absorbs a lot of light and heat, so shield it with a light coat of UV-resistant protectant.
Interior
If you’re planning a quick wash and spruce-up of your existing finish, you should use a dedicated mild liquid car wash; if you’re going to polish and wax the exterior, you can instead use a small amount of liquid dish detergent, which will effectively strip the wax off of the paint. A cool surface will give you the best chance of washing and drying the car without causing wash liquid to evaporate and leave spots on the surfaces. Hose the car down with an easy stream of cool water, working your way from the roof down to the wheels so that dirt and contaminants flow away.
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Detailing Your Car Like a Pro Keep the wash mitt clean, rinsing it frequently. Wash the car from top to bottom, starting with the horizontal surfaces. Switching to the horizontal panels, start from the front and work your way back, from the glass and top of the fenders down to the door’s center point. Once the vehicle’s upper surfaces are clean, rinse and tackle the mid-doors down to the sills, as well as the front and rear bumpers and valances. Save the wheels and tires for last, and it’s best to tackle them with a second wash mitt that you won’t use on your paint the next time you wash. If your wheels have a coating of brake dust, dedicated wheel cleaner will likely remove the residue. White-
Outside
• Tools: Deep bucket (holding five gallons or more) Wash mitt Stiff bristle brush and soft bristle brush Old toothbrushes Steel wool pads with integral soap Drying towels (100 percent cotton) or chamois Clean cotton rags or microfiber cloths Random orbital (dual-action) buffer • Supplies: Automotive car wash solution Paint-safe degreaser for road tar and tree sap Multi-surface wheel cleaner Whitewall cleaning solution Glass cleaner Paint-cleaning clay Polishing compound Polish Wax (natural carnauba-based or synthetic) Rubber and trim dressing or protectant wall or raised white letter tires will gleam after a rub with a steel wool soap pad. Dry the car from top to bottom with a soft cloth or chamois, paying attention to trim and other things that can trap water that will later run out and
smear your wax. Use your damp drying cloth to wipe down the door jambs, hood and trunk channels. If you’ve still got tar or sap to deal with, now’s the time to use a fresh soft cloth and some bug and tar remover or other solvent to clean those areas. Clay bars are designed to glide over a surface lubricant and pick contaminants up off the paint. If you run your hand over a freshly washed panel and feel some grit or resistance, this is the material that a paint-cleaning clay bar will remove. Wet the area with a liquid spray wax or detailing spray and rub the clay back and forth, folding it to expose clean areas as it gets dirty.
...polish brings the gloss, but it doesn’t offer protection against the elements. Always follow up with a coat of protective wax. If your paint is oxidized and chalky, or simply dull, you’ll want to polish it to bring back the shine; remember that polish brings the gloss, but it doesn’t offer protection against the elements. Always follow up with a coat of protective wax. You can apply and remove polish and wax by hand, or you can use a buffer. A random orbital buffer is the best choice. Regardless of your application method, remember that a little wax goes a long way. Move the applicator or buffer pad in an up-and-down fashion before turning and doing the same from side to side over the same area. Fresh 100-percent cotton or microfiber cloth towels won’t harm the paint as you remove wax by hand or touch up areas your buffer couldn’t reach. Use a soft natural bristle brush to sweep wax dust out of emblems and crevices. If your vehicle has plastic or rubber trim or window moldings, or a vinyl convertible top that would benefit from a UV-resistant protectant, spray the treatment on a soft cotton rag before applying it to the trim.
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
73
Chapter 15
Vintage Vehicular Vocabulary A guide to terms in the old-car hobby
W
e’ve all had it happen. You’re scanning the ads in Hemmings, and suddenly you run across a term you’ve never seen before. The seller throws it out like everybody’s supposed to know what it is, and you have no idea what he’s talking about: Protect-o-Plate, Marti Report, PHS, COPO. What’s it all mean? Here’s your answer:
A
Airbag: A type of adjustable suspension that contains
rubber bags that are inflated and deflated, using an on-board compressed air system, to raise or lower the vehicle’s ride height. See also Hydraulics. Antique: A general description of an object having special value because of its age (usually more than 100 years old). In automotive terms, it tends to refer to a vehicle that was built prior to 1915. All weather: A term used in the Twenties and Thirties to denote a four-door convertible sedan.
B
Backlite: The rear window of a car. Bagged: A bagged car has an air-ride suspension. It’s
also a verb to describe installing the system: “I bagged my car.” Barn-fresh: A vehicle, usually an older antique, that is in unrestored condition, looking as if it had just been pulled out of long storage in a barn. It is becoming increasingly popular to restore the mechanicals of such vehicles to safe working condition, but to leave the body and interior in this shape, as it documents the car’s original appearance. Big-block: A generic term used to describe V-8 engine families from Ford, Mopar and Chevrolet. Ford’s big-block engines include the 332-, 352-, 361-, 390-, 406-, 410-, 427- and 428-cu.in. engines. Mopar’s big-block engines include the 383-, 413-, 426- and 440-cu.in. engines. Chevrolet’s big-block engines include the 348-, 396-, 402-, 409-, 427- and 454-cu.in. engines. Big Three: General Motors, Ford and Chrysler. The name originated in the days when these three automakers were the largest among a substantial number of nowdefunct North American car companies. Black plate car: A vintage car that was originally
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
Vintage Vehicular Vocabulary registered in the state of California. California license plates from 1963 to 1969 were black with yellow lettering. A black plate on a car indicates that the car has been in the state of California continuously since at least 1969. Having a black plate is no guarantee that the car was originally sold in California, though—just that it was registered there in those years. Blueprint: An engine that has been rebuilt to its exact design specifications. Most mass-produced engines are built with slightly less than absolute accuracy to their original designs. They work fine for normal driving and are cost-efficient, but these minuscule inaccuracies can reduce performance when the engines are used for racing. A blueprinted engine has had all of its components taken apart and machined to the exact specifications originally indicated by the designer. Blower: A supercharger, which is a compressor that forces extra air into an engine for extra power. Boattail: The tapered form of a car’s rear end. The term literally describes the shape of the vehicle tail, which resembled the bow of a boat. Popular in racing. See also Bateau. Body-off: A method of restoration in which the body is taken off the frame. Only applies to cars with separate body and chassis. See also Frame-off. Bonnet: English term for the panel that covers the engine. Americans call it a hood.
76
Boot: English term for the panel that covers the rear luggage compartment. Americans call it a trunk.
Bore: A cylinder’s bore is its diameter. When an engine is
bored out or overbored, the diameter of the cylinders is increased, which makes the engine’s volume larger and increases its power. If an engine is “bored 30 over,” it means that the cylinder diameter has been increased by 0.030-inch (30 hundredths of an inch) If an engine is stroked and bored, the piston stroke has also been lengthened. Broadcast sheet: A multi-color computer printout coded with information for Chrysler Corporation assembly line workers to identify parts for a particular car. Broadcast sheets are useful in determining which options were included on a car. Usually, broadcast sheets are found under the rear seat. Brougham: In early motoring, this broad term signified a closed car for two or four persons. In later forms, it was often used to describe a car with an open front driver’s compartment. When coupled with sharp lines and flat surfaces, it may be called a “Panel Brougham.” Business coupe: A simple two-door coupe without a rumble seat, often used by doctors, bankers and salesmen, etc. Everyday transport for the middle class.
C
Cabriolet: Generally, this refers to a convertible car with windows. However, this term has changed meaning
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
77
Vintage Vehicular Vocabulary significantly over the years and can even mean different things in different countries. During the 1920s and ’30s in Europe, it meant an open car with a top, two doors and four seats, which was most often derived from a sedan. The equivalent in Great Britain was called a drop‑head coupe, while the English used the term “cabriolet” to mean a four-door open-top car. Concurrently in the United States, the term used was “convertible coupe.” Today, cabriolet describes opentop cars derived from a sedan or coupe. It could also be understood to mean an open-top car with two rows of seats with just two doors, although in reality, it can have any number of doors and windows. CertiCard: A stamped plastic or metal card given to the original purchaser of a Chrysler Corporation vehicle between the years of 1963 and 1968; it described the car in basic terms (in some years, paint and trim codes and, in later years, axle and transmission codes). In addition, it gave the VIN, and sometimes the dealer’s name and the owner name. Channeled: Most cars prior to the 1940s had their bodies placed on top of their frames. A channeled car has its body lowered over the frame, hiding the frame rails. Chopped: A roof that’s had sections removed from the pillars and welded back on in a lower position. A “two-inch chop” has had two vertical inches of metal removed.
78
Classic: As with the term antique, there is no single
definition accepted by all hobbyists, car clubs, licensing bureaus or insurance companies. Some people use the term to describe a car that falls somewhere between their definition of “antique” and a brand-new car. Others use it to describe specific models—for example, the 1955-1956-1957 Chevrolets are often called the “Classic Chevys.” The Classic Car Club of America has trademarked the term “Full Classic” to describe a car that’s on its list of acceptable vintage cars. Club coupe: A two-door closed car with a rear seat. Clone: A vehicle of a lesser trim level that has been added to with parts of rarer option package. For example, a GTO clone might be a Pontiac Le Mans with the added equipment that made up a Ram Air III GTO. Concours d’elegance: A car show, usually open only to higher-end or luxury antique automobiles, held in a lush setting such as a country club. The literal translation is “contest of elegance.” Continental kit: A rear bumper-mounted spare tire in a hard shell. A popular accessory on American cars of the 1950s. Convertible: In the U.S. from 1927 on, the term described a car with a soft, retractable top that was hooked permanently to the bodywork, and therefore not removable like a roadster’s was. Other requisites were side windows that opened and the absence of
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79
Vintage Vehicular Vocabulary any framework above the waist of the car apart from the windshield. The most common example of this was therefore called a “convertible coupe”: These had two doors, while cars with four doors were called “convertible sedans.” In both cases, four or five people could be seated. Convertible roadster: A convertible is an open car with windows; a roadster is an open car without windows; hence, a term which contradicts itself. Used by Lincoln, Chrysler and others around 1930 to emphasize sportiness. Convertible victoria: A four-passenger, two-door, twowindow cabriolet. Coupe: A closed car with two doors and seating for two or three people and a roofline that generally curves at the back. May also have a rudimentary rear seat, in which case it is usually called a club coupe. COPO: Acronym for Central Office Production Order, which allowed dealers to order Camaros, Chevelles and Novas with 396- and 427-cu.in. V-8s not normally authorized by General Motors. Crash box: A transmission that has no synchromesh. This transmission must be double-clutched to reduce wear. Cutting coils: A method of lowering a car’s ride height by cutting out sections of the coil springs.
D
Decked: To remove chrome trim from a custom car’s trunklid. When the chrome is also removed from the
hood, the car is said to be “nosed and decked.”
Deuce: A 1932 Ford. Dogleg: The corner of a wraparound windshield on a 1950s car. It’s a multi-purpose term, and is also used to describe, among other things, the rear door jamb on the back door of a sedan, a sharp turn on a race course, or a manual transmission where first to second gear is an up-and-over movement of the shifter. Double-clutching: A technique used with older manual transmissions that do not have synchronizers (a crash box transmission). The driver puts in the clutch, moves the shifter into neutral, releases the clutch, and then puts the clutch back in and shifts to the next gear. This extra step allows the engine speed to match the speed of the gears, so the shift is smoother and prevents excess wear on the transmission. Dropped axle: A special front axle with its wheel spindles higher in relation to the height of the axle than in a stock unit. The result is a lower ride height. Dual quads: An engine with two four-barrel carburetors. Drophead coupe: British term for the equivalent of the American convertible, or the European cabriolet. Dual cowl: A touring car design that separates the cab into two compartments, front and back. The compartments are separated with a rear windshield mounted on a folding cowl, which covers part of the rear compartment.
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Vintage Vehicular Vocabulary
E F
Estate car: a station wagon, or four-door, four-passenger car with an extended roof line, plus a gate or hatch in the rear for increased cargo capacity.
Fastback: A car design where the roofline continues in a single curve from the windshield to the rear bumper.
Faux cabriolet: A fixed-head coupe made to resemble a cabriolet.
Five-window: A 1920s or 1930s two-door coupe with
side windows behind the doors. The five windows are the door windows, these quarter windows and the rear window or backlite (the windshield isn’t counted). See also Three-window. Fixed-head coupe: A closed coupe. Flamethrowers: A system that includes spark plugs mounted in the tailpipes, with a switch that the driver hits to make them fire. The plugs ignite raw fuel coming out of the exhaust, resulting in trails of flames out the tailpipes. Flathead: An engine with its valves in the block alongside the piston, instead of in the cylinder head. The name comes from the shape of the heads. Fordor: Ford’s name for a four-door sedan. Frame-off: A misnomer for a method of restoration in which the body is taken off the frame. Correctly referred to as “body-off restoration.” Only applies to cars with separate body and chassis, rather than unit-body cars.
82
French: Bodywork that “sinks” items such as headlamps
or antennae below the surface. Such sunken headlamps are called “Frenched headlamps,” or are said to be “Frenched in.” Full Classic: As per the Classic Car Club of America, this refers only to specific or important marques built between 1925 and 1942 (with certain post-war exceptions).
G
Goat: Nickname for a Pontiac GTO. Govier Report: A service provided by Galen’s Tag Service, which decodes optional equipment on Mopar vehicles based on vehicle identification number, fender tag and broadcast sheet. GP: Acronym for Grand Prix or Great Prize. Gran Turismo (GT): Grand touring. Ground-up restoration: A less than accurate term to describe a restoration “from the ground up,” indicating that every individual component has been restored. GT: Acronym for Grand Touring. GTO: Acronym for Gran Tourismo Omologato (Italian for Grand Touring Homologated).
H
Hardtop: A coupe or sedan that has no center or “B” pillar. When all the windows are open, there is no obstruction from the front door to the rear one. Hard top: A removable top to replace the soft-top. It typically made from fiberglass, although it can
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
Vintage Vehicular Vocabulary sometimes be made of steel, and is usually painted the same color as the body of the car. Hemi: An engine with hemispherically shaped combustion chambers (the area of the engine where a mixture of fuel and air is burned to start the process of producing power). The shape allows for unobstructed movement of the air. The term is now a Chrysler trademark, although other companies have used similar designs. Homologation: Generally referring to production cars built by a manufacturer to allow the car entry into a specific class of racing. Hood: American terminology for the sheetmetal panel covering the engine. Horseless carriage: A term for an early vintage vehicle defined by the Horseless Carriage Club of America; it applies to cars built before 1915. See also Antique. Hot rod: An old car customized with a newer drivetrain and any manner of body or interior changes. Also called a “street rod.” Hydraulics: A suspension system that uses oil-filled cylinders to raise or lower the vehicle’s ride height. Its popularity with many custom car fans has been usurped by newer airbag suspensions. See also Airbag.
J
Juice brakes: Hydraulic brakes, as opposed to mechanical ones.
L
Lake pipes: Straight exhaust pipes that run along the
lower edge of a hot rod, without mufflers. It comes from their original use on cars that raced on dry lakes. Landau: A partially open limousine. The open part was usually in the front where the driver sat. Landaulet: A car in which there is a fixed roof over the front seats and the rear doors, but a folding convertible roof over the rear quarters. Lead sled: A custom car, usually a late 1940s or 1950s car. Although most are customized today with plastic body filler, their body modifications were originally done with melted lead. Long block: A replacement engine including the crankshaft, connecting rods, pistons, heads and head gaskets. See short block. Limousine: A chauffeured sedan, often with a longer wheelbase and usually with a division between the driver and the passengers. The rear compartment has luxurious features with controls for heating, the radio and for opening and closing the glass or wood partition.
M
Marque: A make or brand of car. Matching numbers: A description of a car with the
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Vintage Vehicular Vocabulary to collectors and to a vehicle’s value, but it can be useful to prove that a high-performance model is as it’s presented, rather than a more ordinary trim line later modified to resemble an original muscle car. See also Numbers-matching. Marti Report: A service provided by Marti Auto Works utilizing Ford Motor Company’s production database for cars between 1967 and 1979, based on the vehicle identification number. Mechanical brakes: Brakes that operate without the benefit of a hydraulic system. Mopar: A Chrysler product.
N
Nailhead: Buick V-8 engines that were produced between 1953 and 1966, so named because their narrow valves resemble nails. NOS: Acronym for New Old Stock, which refers to an old, original replacement auto part that has never been on a vehicle. Nose: To remove chrome trim from a custom car’s hood, such as the hood ornament. If the trim is also removed from the trunklid, the car is said to be “nosed and decked.” Numbers-matching: A vehicle in which the engine, transmission and rear differential all carry the same number sequence matching that of the car’s frame tag. Not all cars have such an accurate numbering system.
86
O
Opera coupe: A two-door closed car with a small folding seat beside the driver. This allowed easy passage to a rear seat for two, usually offset to the right in lefthand-drive cars.
P
Phaeton: A small, four-door open touring car. This is
a French term taken from the name of the Greek hero Phaeton, who drove the chariot of his sun god father, Helios. Phantom: A constructed car that was never built by a factory, but could have been, based on the available options at the time. An example would be creating an AMC Rebel Machine convertible from an AMC Rebel convertible. PHS documentation: A service of Pontiac Historical Services, which provides option information on a particular vehicle based on its vehicle identification number. Post-war: Refers to a North American consumer vehicle of model year 1946 or newer. Civilian car manufacturing was suspended during model years 1943, 1944 and 1945 as the automakers produced war supplies instead. Pre-war: Refers to a North American consumer vehicle of model year 1942 or older. Protect-O-Plate: A credit-card-sized metal plate furnished with all GM cars between 1965 and 1972 to assist dealers in tracking the vehicle for warranty service.
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
87
Vintage Vehicular Vocabulary
Q R
Quick-change: A rear differential assembly that can be
changed in a few minutes when a different gear ratio is required for racing.
Ragtop: A slang term for a fabric-topped convertible. See
type is sometimes called a “mother-in-law” seat.
Runabout: A small, light two-seater. “Runabout” was
mainly an American term to indicate a very basic, very cheap, small open car. Predecessor to the roadster.
S
Saloon: English term for a sedan. also Soft-top. Rat rod: A hot rod with its body left rusty, and sometimes Sedan: A car seating four or more with a fixed roof that built with a very rough chassis or mismatched parts. Be careful: Some owners like the term, while others think it’s derogatory. Restomod: A restoration of a vintage car that includes modern electrical, braking, suspension and steering systems without significantly altering the outward appearance of the original car. Roadster: An open two-seater car without roll-up windows. It can also refer to a sports car. Roll bar: A metal bar fashioned in such a way to protect the driver in the event the car rolls over. Rotisserie restoration: A less than accurate term describing a restoration in which the body was attached to a rotisserie, a spinning device that allows the floor pan to be accessed easily. Rumble seat: An open, upholstered exterior seat that opens out from the rear deck of an automobile and seats one or more passengers. Most often found on roadsters, coupes and cabriolets; models equipped with a rumble seat were called sport coupes or sport roadsters. This
is full-height up to the rear window; usually a four-door, though two-door sedans exist. Shaved: A car with the door handles and side trim removed, as in “shaved handles.” Short block: A replacement engine block containing the crank, connecting rods and pistons, but without heads, manifolds or external components. See also Long block. Sidemounts: Fender-mounted spare tires and wheels Six-Pack: Mopar’s marketing lingo for an engine equipped with three two-barrel carburetors. Sleeper: A high-performance car that doesn’t look capable of what it can do. The British use the term “Qships,” in reference to a naval war practice of outfitting unassuming-looking merchant ships with war guns. Slicks: Wide tires made of very soft rubber with no tread, used in drag racing because they provide maximum traction during hard acceleration. They’re not legal for street use. Small-block: A generic term used to describe V-8 engine families from Ford, Mopar and Chevrolet. (continued)
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Vintage Vehicular Vocabulary • Ford’s small-block engines include the 221-, 255-, 260‑, 289-, 302- and 351-cu.in. engines from the Windsor, Ontario, plant, or the 302-, 351- and 400cu.in. engines from the Cleveland, Ohio, engine plant. • Mopar’s small-block engines (these are also known as the LA engine family) include the 273-, 318-, 340- and 360-cu.in. engines. • Chevrolet’s small-block engines include the 265-, 283-, 302-, 307-, 327-, 350- and 400-cu.in. engines. Soft-top: A convertible with a fabric top. Stock: An original, unmodified car. Stovebolt: A six-cylinder Chevrolet engine, introduced for 1929; the basic design was used in cars until the 1960s, and lasted into the 1980s in some trucks. Also called the “Cast-Iron Wonder,” it got the name from its bolts, which resembled those used on stoves of the time. Street machine: A high-performance car that’s legal to drive on the street. Stroked: An engine modified with a longer piston stroke (the distance the piston can travel up and down in its cylinder) to produce more power. Often combined with boring (increasing the diameter of the cylinder); the resulting engine is described as stroked and bored. Suicide doors: Doors hinged at the rear, rather than the front. Supposedly the name comes from the difficulty in closing them if they come open at highway speeds.
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Suspended pedals: Older cars had pedals that came up
through holes in the floorboards. Suspended or “swing” pedals, now used on all cars, hang down from the cowl. Shooting brake: A European term typically describing a car that is a cross between a two-door sports coupe and an estate car. Made popular by the wealthy, who wanted a vehicle to move larger than normal amounts of cargo (even dogs when grouse shooting) without having to resort to a dowdy estate car or station wagon. Spyder: a light two-seater roadster (also called a Spider). The European term for the English roadster. Station wagon: A utility car built of wood, typically with four doors. Superleggera: Italian term for “super light.”
T
T-top: A fixed-roof coupe that has two removable roof
panels and retains a central narrow roof section along the front to back axis of the car. Derived from the Targa top. Targa: A coupe with a removable roof panel (or panels) above the heads of the front seat occupants. Three on the tree: A three-speed manual transmission with its gearshift lever mounted on the steering column. Three-window: A 1920s or 1930s two-door coupe that has no side windows behind the doors. The three windows are the two doors and the rear window (the windshield isn’t counted). See also Five-window.
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Vintage Vehicular Vocabulary Tonneau: The rear compartment of a car body, usually an
open touring body Tonneau cover: A soft cover used on parked roadsters to protect the cab from rain when the top is down. Touring car: A four-door open car with four seats and no windows. U.S. equivalent of the European baquet. Town cabriolet: A town car in which the covered rear section converts to an open car. Town car: A chauffeur-driven car with the passengers fully enclosed and the chauffeur exposed. Also known as a Sedan de Ville or Town Brougham Tubbed: A vehicle modified with larger inner fenderwells to allow much wider than stock wheels and tires to fit within the contours of the original fenders. Tudor: Ford’s term for a two door sedan. Tribute car: See clone Twin Six: Packard’s first twelve-cylinder car, introduced in late 1915 and produced until 1920. When Packard reintroduced the V-12 in 1932, the term was reused for that first year only.
U
Unmolested: A less than accurate term that indicates a car’s originality or lack of modification.
V W
Victoria: A close-coupled two-door sedan or an enlarged coupe with a rear seat. Also a four-door open car with folding top over the rear seat only.
Windscreen: English term for windshield Wing: English term for fender Woody: A motor vehicle incorporating natural finished
wood for the structure and all exposed parts of the body. The term has been loosely applied to any car that uses wood coverings, even over metal. Wraparound windshield: A 1950s styling cue where the windshield glass was curved into a relatively sharp angle, with the edges protruding past the hinges on the front door. The point is commonly known as the dogleg. Most owners of these cars go through a learning curve when it comes to getting into the car, since it’s very easy to bang your knee against the dogleg.
Y
Unibody: All-in-one car construction, where the body and Yenko: Refers to Chevrolet Camaros, Chevelles, Novas and frame of the car are a single unit. This design provides support to all the mechanical components, as well as protection for the vehicle's occupants. Sometimes called “monocoque” construction.
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
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Chapter 16
Collector-Car Museums For day-trips or research, museums provide the answers
W
Indianapolis Motor Speedway
hether you’re interested in general automotive Hall of Fame history or specific makes, models, nationali4790 W. 16th Street Indianapolis Indiana 46222 ties or time periods, America’s collector-car 317-481-8400 museums have a tremendous amount to offer. Static Kruse Automotive & Carriage Museum displays and working repair shops are out there for 5634 CR 11-A your pleasure in almost every state. Visit one of these Auburn, Indiana 46706 260-927-9144 great museums today. Alabama Barber Vintage Motorsports Museum 6030 Barber Motorsports Parkway Birmingham, Alabama 35094 205-699-7275
Connecticut Golden Age of Trucking Museum 1101 Southford Road Middlebury, Connecticut 06762 203-577-2181
Alaska Museum of Alaska Transportation and Industry Mile 47 Parks Highway Wasilla, Alaska 99687 907-376-1211
Delaware Hagley Museum and Library 298 Buck Road East Wilmington, Delaware 19807-0630 302-658-2400
Arizona Penske Racing Museum 7125 E. Chauncey Lane Phoenix, Arizona 85054 Arkansas Museum of Automobiles Petit Jean Mountain Morrilton, Arkansas 72110 501-727-5427 California Blackhawk Collection 3700 Blackhawk Plaza Circle Danville, California 94506 925-736-2277 Horseless Carriage Foundation, Inc. 8186 Center Street, Suite F La Mesa, California, 91944-4119 619-464-0301 Nethercutt Collection – San Sylmar 15180 Bledsoe Street Sylmar, California 91342 818-367-2251 Petersen Museum 6060 Wilshire Boulevard Los Angeles, California 90036 323-964-6359 Colorado Cussler Museum 14959 W. 69th Avenue Arvada Colorado 80007 303-420-2795 Shelby American Collection 5020 Chaparral Court P.O. Box 19228 Boulder, Colorado 80308-2228 303-516-9565 Stanley Museum The Stanley Hotel Estes Park, Colorado 80517 970-577-1903
94
District of Columbia Smithsonian/National Museum of American History On the National Mall 14th St. and Constitution Ave., N.W. Washington, D.C. Florida Don Garlits Museum 13700 S.W. 16th Avenue Ocala, Florida 32676 352-245-8661 Tallahassee Automobile Museum 6800 Mahan Drive Tallahassee, Florida 32308 850-942-0137 Tampa Bay Automobile Museum 3301 Gateway Centre Boulevard Pinellas Park, Florida 33782 727-579-8226 Georgia Microcar Museum 2950 Eatonton Road Madison, Georgia 30650 706-343-9937 Idaho Vintage Wheel Museum 218 Cedar Street Sand Point, Idaho 83864 208-263-7173 Illinois Volo Antique Auto Museum 27582 Volo Village Road Volo, Illinois 60073 815-385-0703 Indiana Auburn-Cord-Duesenberg Museum 1600 W. Wayne Street Auburn, Indiana 46706 219-925-1444
National Automotive And Truck Museum of The United States 1000 Gordon M. Buehrig Place Auburn, Indiana 46706 260-925-9100 Studebaker National Museum 201 S. Chapin Street South Bend, Indiana 46601 574-235-9714 888-391-5600
Iowa National Sprint Car Hall of Fame Museum 1 Sprint Capital Place Knoxville, Iowa 50138 641-842-6176 Kansas National Midget Auto Racing Museum High Banks Hall of Fame, Inc. P.O. Box 264 Belleville, Kansas 66935 785-527-2526 Kentucky National Corvette Museum 2800 Scottsville Road Bowling Green, Kentucky 42102 502-781-7973 Maine Cole Land Transportation Museum 405 Perry Road Bangor, Maine 04401 207-990-3600 Owls Head Transportation Museum Route 73 Owls Head, Maine 04854 207-594-4418 Stanley Museum 40 School Street P.O. Box 280 Kingfield, Maine 04947 207-265-2729 Massachusetts Heritage Museum and Gardens 67 Grove Street Sandwich, Massachusetts 02563 508-888-3300 Larz Anderson Museum of Transportation 15 Newton Street Brookline, Massachusetts 02146 617-522-654
Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby
Michigan Alfred P. Sloan Museum 1221 E. Kearsley Street Flint, Michigan 48503 810-237-3450 Automotive Hall Of Fame 21400 Oakwood Boulevard Dearborn, Michigan 48124 313-240-4000 Automotive Heritage Museum and Miller Motors Hudson 100 East Cross Street Ypsilanti, Michigan 48198 734-482-5200 Detroit Historical Museum 5401 Woodward Avenue Detroit, Michigan 48202 313-833-1805 Gilmore Car Museum and Pierce-Arrow Museum 6865 Hickory Road Hickory Corners, Michigan 49060 269-671-5089 Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village Village Road and Oakwood Boulevard Dearborn, Michigan 48121 313-271-1620 R.E.Olds Transportation Museum 240 Museum Drive Lansing, Michigan 48933 517-372-0529 Walter P. Chrysler Museum One Chrysler Drive Auburn Hills, Michigan 48326 888-456-1924 Minnesota Ellingson Car Museum 20950 Rogers Drive Rogers, Minnesota 55374 763-428-7337 Mississippi Tupelo Automobile Museum 1 Otis Boulevard Tupelo, Mississippi 38804 662-842-4242 Missouri National Museum of Transportation 3015 Barret Station Road St. Louis, Missouri 63122 314-965-7998 Montana Montana Auto Museum Old Prison Museums 1106 Main Street Deer Lodge, Montana 59722 406-846-3111 Nebraska Speedway Motors 340 Victory Lane Lincoln, Nebraska 68528 402-323-3166
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Collector-Car Museums Nevada Imperial Palace Auto Collection 3535 Las Vegas Boulevard S. Las Vegas, Nevada 89103 702-731-3311 National Automobile Museum 10 S. Lake Street Reno, Nevada 89501 775-333-9300 New Hampshire Wright Museum 77 Center Street Wolfeboro, New Hampshire 03894 603-569-1212 New Jersey Mayor Gary’s Garage 300 Sooy’s Landing Road Port Republic, New Jersey 08241 609-652-7664 New York Buffalo Transportation Pierce-Arrow Museum 263 Michigan Ave at 201 Seneca St. Buffalo, New York 14203 716-853-0084 Saratoga Automobile Museum 110 Avenue of the Pines Saratoga Springs, New York 12866 518-587-1935 North Carolina No. Carolina Auto Racing Hall of Fame 119 Knob Hill Road – Lakeside Park Mooresville, North Carolina 28117 704-663-5331
No. Carolina Transportation Museum 411 South Salisbury Avenue P.O. Box 165 Spencer, North Carolina 28159 704-636-2889 Wheels Through Time Museum U.S. 19 P.O. Box 790 Maggie Valley, North Carolina 28751 828-926-6266
Pennsylvania AACA Antique Auto Museum at Hershey 161 Museum Drive Hershey, Pennsylvania 17033 717-566-7100 Rolls-Royce Foundation 189 Hempt Road Mechanicsburg, Pennsylvania 17050 717-795-9400, 877-795-4050
North Dakota Bonanzaville USA Eugene Dahl Car Museum 1351 Main Avenue W. West Fargo, North Dakota 58078 701-282-2822
Rhode Island Pronyne Motorsports Museum 8 Cleveland Street Pawtucket, Rhode Island 02860-5205 401-447-4202
Ohio National Packard Museum 1899 Mahoning Avenue N.W. Warren, Ohio 44483 330-394-1899 Oklahoma National Rod & Custom Car Hall of Fame Museum (Darryl Starbird) 55251 E. Highway 85A Afton, Oklahoma 74331 918-257-4234 Oregon Northwest Vintage Car & Motorcycle Museum Western Antique Powerland Brooks, Oregon 97305
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Tennessee Floyd Garrett’s Muscle Car Museum 320 Winfield Dunn Parkway Sevierville, Tennessee 37876 865-908-0882 Lane Motor Museum 702 Murfreesboro Pike Nashville, Tennessee 37210 615-742-7445
RESTORATIONS RESTORATIO S We consider it our mission to provide you with the best restoration facility in the world. Partial or complete restorations by skilled craftsmen.
Virginia Car & Carriage Caravan Museum at Luray Caverns 970 U.S. Highway 211 West Luray, Virginia 22835 540-743-6551 Washington Harold E. LeMay Museum 325 152nd Street East Tacoma, Washington 98445 253-536-2885 Wisconsin Wisconsin Automotive Museum Hartford Heritage Auto Museum 147 N. Rural Street Hartford, Wisconsin 53027 262-673-7999
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Complete restorations, mechanical repairs, engine service, Interiors, final drive units, suspension overhauls We do it right the first time!
Exchange Engines for Mercedes-Benz Cars 7630 Alabama Ave., Canoga Park, CA 91304 818-712-9881 • www.mercedesengines.net 800-622-6867 • e-mail: metric@mercedesengines.net
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South Dakota Telstar Mustang Shelby Cobra Museum 1300–1400 S. Kimball Street Mitchell, South Dakota 57301 605-996-6550
Utah Browning-Kimball Classic Car Museum Ogden Union Station Museums 2501 Wall Avenue Ogden, Utah 84401 801-393-9890
Jaguar Restoration
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South Carolina Ragtops & Roadsters Auto Museum 3956 Highway 17 Murrells Inlet, South Carolina 843-357-6227
Texas Art Car Museum 140 Heights Boulevard Houston, Texas 77007 713-861-5526 Petroleum Museum – Chapparal Cars 1500 Interstate 20 West Midland, Texas 79701 432-683-4403
1937 Bentley 4 1/4 L J. Gurney Nutting Drophead Coupe
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Rare finds, rust-free, affordable classic & antique cars are available from ranches, farms, storage lots & country auctions.
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Hemmings: Getting Started in the Collector-Car Hobby