Contents
Jacket cuts Jacket styles Jacket length and gorge height options Lapel options Vent and lapel button hole options Crown, sleeve and cuff options Pocket options Internal jacket pockets Internal jacket styling and trim Lining alternatives and edge options Edge options Edge option detail and other front and back shape options Collar detailing and button options Melton & embroidery thread colours Formal wear Countrywear
05 06 08 09 10 11 12 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 23
Jackets 04
Waistcoat cuts Waistcoat styles Waistcoat lapel options Waistcoat pocket options Back and front options Stitch and button hole details Formal waistcoats Countrywear - Gilets
26 27 28 29 31 32 33 34
Waistcoats 25
Trouser cuts Pleats and pockets Pockets, waistband adjusters, belt loops Waistband detailing Hem and waistband finishing Lining Breeks, Plus 2’s, 3’s and 4’s Lining and detailing
36 37 38 39 40 41 42 44
Trousers 35
Morning coats Evening tail coats Toastmaster coats
46 47 48
Tailcoats 45
Single breasted overcoats Double breasted overcoats Overcoat styling details (all cuts and styles) Overcoat pocket details Internal pocket details Covert coat West End overcoat Pea coat Field coat Field coat details Trend coat
50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60
Outerwear 49
Images and styles that follow are illustrative; most style features and combinations are available on most garments/cuts
Jacket cuts 05/24
Classic Block SB x 2 An elegant, classical, English cut
West End Block SB x 2 A slimmer silhouette, the result of a shallower armhole, higher waist and more suppression in the chest dart All jacket buttoning styles that follow are available in both cuts
Jackets Style Portfolio
Jacket styles 06/24
Jacket styles 07/24
SB x 1
SB x 2
DB 1 x 3
DB 2 x 3
SB x 3
SB x 4
DB 3 x 3
DB 3 x 4
Base
DB 1 x 2
DB 2 x 2
Base
DB 4 x 4
Nehru jacket Also available with curved bottom
Base
Style Portfolio
Base
Style Portfolio
Jacket length and gorge height options 08/24 Regular jacket length
Lapel options 09/24
Short jacket length
Narrow lapels
At or above the hip/seat measure point
2" (5.1cm) to 3.25" (8.3cm)
X
Regular gorge position
Base - Jacket Short - Classic
X
Peak lapel on SB Base
Long jacket length
Wide lapels
Variable width and peak length (see p 18) available. Also notch lapel on DBÂ available
High gorge position
Slim shawl collar
Also available on standard and short peak lapels
Width 2.25" (5.7cm)
3.75" (9.5cm) to 6.75" (17.1cm)
Regular shawl collar Base
Deep shawl collar
Base
Base - Long Jacket - classic cut
More than 2" (5cm) below top of leg
Style Portfolio
Style Portfolio
Vent and lapel button hole options 10/24 No vent
Crown, sleeve and cuff options 11/24
Centre vent
Regular crown
Raised crown
Napolitana crown
Alcantara elbow patches
Single button cuff
Double button cuff
3 button cuff
4 button cuff
2+2 button cuff
5 button cuff
Tailored cuff
Flared cuff
Custom length vent
Side vent
Between 8.5" (21.6cm) and 15.5" (39.4cm) dependent on jacket length Base
Slanting button holes
Kissing 4 button cuff
Mitred cuff
Base
Base
Full gauntlet cuff
X
Base
Centre flash vent
Side flash vent
Button hole LHS AW notch lapels
Base
Double button hole LHS AW
Contrast button hole LHS AW
Style Portfolio
Double button hole RHS AW
Contrast button hole RHS AW
Base
Top button hole contrast
Base
X
Base
Half gauntlet cuff
Base
Bottom button hole contrast
Base
Contrast gauntlet cuff
Base
All button hole contrast
X
Full/half gauntlet cuff (max depth 3" 7.6cm)
Slim full/half gauntlet cuff (min depth 1" 2.5cm)
Bottom 2 button hole contrast
Second button hole contrast
Base
Base
Base
All lapel button hole options available on Peak/DB lapels and in contrast thread Button hole RHS AW
Base
Second button hole from top contrast
Flash cuff
Base
Not all cuff button numbers available on all styles
Base
Base Style Portfolio
Pocket options 12/24
Pocket options 13/24 Combinations of contrast welts and flaps available
Straight lower pocket
Straight lower pocket & OTP
Slant lower pocket
Slant lower pocket & OTP
Combinations of contrast jetts available
Extreme slant lower pocket 23ยบ
X Extreme slant available in 28, 34, 39 and 45 degree angles, with/without OTP Extreme slant lower pocket & OTP 23ยบ
Extreme slant lower pocket custom selection
Base
Patch pocket
Base
Patch pocket with flaps
Base
Inverted box pleat with flaps
e
Base
Welt outside ticket pocket Base
Narrow flaps (17/8" 4.8cm)
Box pleat
Slim flaps (11/2" 3.8cm)
Base
Box pleat with flaps
Inverted box pleat
No breast pocket
Jetted breast with flap
Plain breast patch pocket
Plain patch pocket flap
Inverted patch pocket
Outside ticket with flaps
Sail shaped flaps
Inverted patch pocket with flap
Welt breast RHS AW
Double welt pockets
Double jetted pockets
Double jetted with flaps
Double plain patch pockets
Double plain patch pockets with flaps
Double inverted patch pockets
Double inverted patch pockets with flaps
Pocket bag to match lining
Base
Jetted outside ticket pocket Base
Base
Coin pocket RHS AW, both or none available
e Base
Base
Style Portfolio
Base
Base
Base
Base
Base
Base
Base
Base
Base
Base
Base
Base
Base
Base
Base
Base
Style Portfolio
Internal jacket pockets 14/24
Internal jacket styling and trim 15/24
Framed facing
Plain facing
Standard internal pocket layout LHS AW
Standard internal pocket layout RHS AW
Security zips/ tabs positions
Columbia stitch to match lining (default)
Plain pocket finish
Security zips/ tabs positions
Contrast Columbia stitch
Internal breast pockets (cloth jetts)
Contrast piping
Xxxxxxx Xxxxx
Pen pocket
Contrast piping and contrast Columbia stitch
Individually cut
and tailored for:
Xxxxxxx Xxxxx
Internal ticket pocket
Mobile phone position options LHS AW
Poachers/magazine/scarf pocket LHS AW
Available RHS AW
Target size 9" x 12"
Contrast jetts
Button and tab security
Zipper
Embroidery on lining
Perspiration pads
Mobile pocket under arm LHS AW and RHS AW available
Variable size mobile pocket
Embroidery on label
Available RHS AW
3 1
Embroidery Font Samples 1 - Mid LHS 2 - Lower LHS 3 - Underarm LHS The mobile phone pocket bag is made from softer cotton
Style Portfolio
2
Calibri
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz Constantia Italic
Palace Script
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUV WXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ abcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz Style Portfolio
Lining alternatives and edge options 16/24 Unlined
Half lined
Binding/tape location options lapel
Binding/tape location options lapel and collar
See magnified box for detail (see p 18)
Available in SB 2 or 3 only. Contrast taping selectable
Hand edge effect (AMF) default locations
Edge options 17/24
Hand edge effect top shoulder and arm hole
Binding/tape location options lapel, collar, front edge and bottom
Binding/tape location optional on flaps and/or out breast pocket
Piping location options - lapel, collar, front edge and bottom
Piping and hand edge effect location options - lapel, collar, front edge and bottom
See magnified box for stitch detail (see p 18)
Hand edge effect centre back and/or hind arm
See magnified box for detail (see p 18)
Style Portfolio
See magnified box for detail (see p 18)
Style Portfolio
Edge option detail and other front and back shape options 18/24
Collar detailing and button options 19/24
xxxxxxx
HEE/AMF stitching 1/16" (0.16cm)
HEE/AMF stitching 1/8" (0.3cm)
HEE/AMF stitching 1/4" (0.6cm)
HEE/AMF stitching 3/8" (0.95cm)
Swelled edge - distance from options as hand edge effect
Contrast top collar
Contrast melton under collar
Contrast or tonal melton under collar with embroidery
Turned back collar
Deep collar
Contrast HEE/AMF stitching
Contrast swelled edge
Binding detail
Piping detail
Piping and hand edge detail
Dark Grey Resin
Navy Resin
Black Resin
Sand Resin
Mid Brown Resin
Dark Brown Resin
Stone Resin
Mid Grey Resin
Green/Brown Resin
Black Horn
Square fronts
Cutaway fronts
xxxxxxx
6 degrees of variable cutaway from the norm between 5/8" (1.5cm) to 21/2" (6.5cm)
1.5cm X ins
Sand Horn
Mid Brown Horn
Dark Brown Horn
Ivory Mother of Pearl
Grey/Smoke Mother of Pearl
Black Leather
Dark Brown Leather
Mid Brown Leather
Silver
Gold
Panel back
SB x 3 roll for 2
Contrast button holes forepart
Cloth covered Sleek Peak lapel - level with collar - SB only
Style Portfolio
Ribbed Silk covered
Silk/Satin covered
While every effort has been made to reproduce these buttons accurately, there may be variance with the actual colour of the buttons due to the reproduction process.
Short Peak lapel, reduced step - SB & DB
Style Portfolio
Melton & embroidery thread colours 20/24
Formalwear 21/24 SB notch lapels
M1 - off white
M5 - light grey
M25 - peach
M30 - camel
M10 - dark grey
M35 - brown
M15 - black
SB peak lapel
M20 - cream
M40 - green
M41 - olive
M45 - yellow
M50 - sunflower yellow
M55 - orange
M60 - pink
M61 - fuchsia
M65 - bright red
M70 - red
M75 - maroon
M80 - petrol blue
M81 - baby blue
All combinations of single breasted button formats and most style options available on formalwear
SB regular shawl
SB slim shawl
SB deep shawl
DB peak lapel
While every effort has been made to reproduce these meltons and threads accurately, there may be variance with the actual colours due to the reproduction process. M85 - purple
White
M90 - royal blue
Off White
Black
M95 - cobalt blue
Bright Red
Burgundy
M100 - navy
Brown
Light Grey/Silver
Dark Grey
All combinations of double breasted button formats and most style options are available in formalwear Green
Style Portfolio
Light Green
Light Blue
Mid Blue
Dark Blue
Yellow/Gold
Mauve
Pink
Style Portfolio
Formalwear 22/24 DB regular shawl
Countrywear 23/24 DB deep shawl
DB slim shawl Base
Action shoulders
Action back
Sewn half belt
Norfolk jacket
Base
Link button
Covered buttons
Available on standard jackets and both shoulder/back options Contrast pocket jetts to match lapels
Contrast welts on breast pocket to match lapels Shooting jacket with underarm gusset
Smoking jacket Base
Contrast to match silk facing or other Most style options available in standard jackets are also available in formalwear Contrast gauntlet cuff to match lapels
Available in SB x 1 and SB x 2. Frogging/Cording on collar, lapels and edge available on all styles
Style Portfolio
Fleur de lys frogging on cuff
Loop frogging on cuff
Storm collar (functioning) Not available on high gorge
Storm collar for show Not available on high gorge
Storm collar button and tab
Reverse lapel button
Style Portfolio
Countrywear 24/24 Optional square bellows pockets and/or welted hand warmer pockets
Gun patches left, right or both available
Sleeveless jacket
Bellows pocket with buttoned round flaps
Bellows pocket with round flaps
Bellows pocket with square flaps - no buttons
Jetted hand warmer pockets
Also available in SB 4
Most style options available in standard jackets are also available in countrywear Whistle pocket also available RHS AW
Style Portfolio
Waistcoats
Waistcoat cuts 26/34
Waistcoat styles 27/34 SB x 3
SB x 4
SB x 6
SB x 7
DB 3 x 3
DB 4 x 4
SB x 5 Classic cut, an elegant silhouette, stylish and comfortable All the following style options are available on both vest silhouettes
SB x 5 West End cut The extended front dart into the armhole creates a closer/neater fit in this area
Style Portfolio
Style Portfolio
Waistcoat lapel options 28/34 SB x 5 with notch lapel
Waistcoat pocket options 29/34 SB x 6 with peak lapel
SB x 5 welt pockets
SB x 5 jetted lower pockets
DB 3 x 3 peak lapel
SB x 6 jetted lower pocket with flaps
DB 4 x 4 jetted lower pockets
DB 3 x 3 contrast peak lapel
DB 4 x 4 jetted lower pockets with flaps
All SB and DB waistcoats regardless of button configurations can have all lapel styles
SB x 4 regular shawl lapel
Slim and Deep shawl lapels available
DB 4 x 4 regular shawl lapel
Slim and Deep shawl lapels available
Style Portfolio
All lapel styles can have contrast facings
Style Portfolio
Waistcoat pocket options 30/34
Back and front options 31/34 Drop back vent
Upper and lower welted pockets
Upper and lower jetted pockets
Upper and lower jetted pockets with flaps
Welt breast pocket LHS AW
Welt breast pocket RHS AW
X
Jetted breast pocket LHS AW
Jetted breast pocket RHS AW
Jetted breast pocket with flap LHS AW
Jetted breast pocket with flap RHS AW
Variable drop amounts 1.5" (3.8cm), 2" (5.1cm), 2.5" (6.3cm), 3" (7.6cm)
Contrast lower welted pockets Plain back (in lining or cloth)
Contrast upper and lower welted pockets
Contrast lower jetted pockets
Contrast outer back
Square fronts
Contrast jetted pockets with flaps
Deep points
Style Portfolio
Style Portfolio
Stitch and button hole details 32/34 SB x 4 hand edge effect (AMF) locations
Formal waistcoats 33/34 SB x 5 with show button
SB x 3 horseshoe deep lapels
DB 3 x 3 horseshoe deep lapels
Square shawl
HEE/AMF stitching 1/16" (0.16cm)
HEE/AMF stitching 1/8" (0.3cm)
HEE/AMF stitching 1/4" (0.6cm)
HEE/AMF stitching 3/8" (0.95cm)
Contrast HEE/AMF stitching
Contrast swelled edge
Contrast button holes
Vertical chain hole
Style Portfolio
Swelled edge - distance from options as hand edge effect
SB x 2 horseshoe
SB x 4 horseshoe
SB x 5 horseshoe
DB 2 x 2 horseshoe
DB 4 x 4 horseshoe
SB x 3 horseshoe satin shawl
DB 4 x 4 horseshoe satin shawl
SB x 4 satin shawl
SB x 5 satin notch lapels
DB 3 x 3 contrast peak lapels
Style Portfolio
Countrywear - Gilets 34/34 Gilet with bellows pockets
No vent
Centre vent
Jetted hand warmer pockets
Sewn on belt with cartridge pocket
Sewn on half belt
Gun patches, left only or right only available
Style Portfolio
Welted hand warmer pockets
Round mouth patch pockets
Trousers
Trouser cuts 36/44
Pleats and pockets 37/44
Classic cut
An elegant English silhouette, stylish and comfortable
Plain front
Single forward pleat
Double forward pleat
Single reverse pleat
Double reverse pleat
Deep pleat (American) option available on all pleat styles Slanting pockets
Straight pockets
Slanting jetted pockets
Straight jetted pockets
Cross pockets
Drop cross pockets
Drop cross frog mouth pockets
Zipped inner pockets
Coin pocket (LHS AW and both available)
Reinforced pocket bag (double lined)
No hip pocket
RHS AW jetted hip pocket
LHS AW jetted hip pocket
Jetted hip pockets with button
Double jetted pockets
Welted hip pockets, left or right only also available
Jetted hip pockets with flaps and hidden buttons
Welted hip pockets with flaps
Slender cut A contemporary fit, slimmer in the back thigh, particularly suitable for lower worn trousers
Style Portfolio
Jetted hip pockets with button and flaps
Style Portfolio
Pockets, waistband adjusters, belt loops 38/44
Waistband detailing 39/44
X RHS AW fob
LHS AW fob
RHS AW fob with flap
Double fob with flaps
RHS AW hidden cash pocket
LHS AW hidden cash pocket
Silver metal buckle and strap
Black metal buckle and strap
Button and tab waist adjuster
Zipper waist adjuster
Rear metal buckle and strap
Traditional drop metal buckle and strap
Inside brace buttons
Outside brace buttons
Regular belt loops
Regular belt loops x 8
Deep belt loops
Tunnel belt loops
Style Portfolio
LHS AW fob with flap
Double fob
No waist adjuster
Belt prong loop
X
X
X
Standard 13/8" (3.5cm) waistband
Narrow 1" (2.5cm) waistband
13/4" (4.5cm) waistband
2" (5cm) waistband
Grown on fishtail back
Grown on fishtail back no front waistband or extension
V cut in waistband
Narrow slit cut in waistband
Square waistband extension
Pointed waistband extension
Round waistband extension
Double hook on waistband
Button and hook on waistband (any shape)
Double button on waistband
Button fly
Metal zipper fly (nylon standard)
Style Portfolio
Hem and waistband finishing 40/44
Lining 41/44 Front half lined to below the knee (standard)
Fully lined (front and back) to below the knee
Fully lined (front and back) to hem
No lining
X
Plain finished hem (unfinished available)
Standard turn ups 13/4" (4.4cm)
Turn ups variable depth
Plain hem with V cut
Plain hem with slit cut
Angled/cavalry hem
Cream waistband and curtain (standard)
Black waistband and curtain
Cream waistband with shirt grip
Black waistband with shirt grip
No curtain available
White herringbone trim waistband and curtain
Blue and white stripe waistband and curtain
Raised side seam
Braided side seam (formal wear)
Satin stripe (formal wear)
Reinforced double crutch
Reinforced double seat
HEE/AMF on fly and pockets
HEE/AMF on fly, pockets and side seam
HEE/AMF stitching
HEE/AMF stitching 1/8" (0.3cm)
HEE/AMF stitching 1/4" (0.6cm)
HEE/AMF stitching 3/8" (0.95cm)
Swelled edge - distance options as hand edge effect
Contrast HEE/AMF stitching
Contrast swelled edge
Style Portfolio
Half contrast waistband to match jacket lining or trim
Style Portfolio
Breeks, Plus 2’s, 3’s and 4’s 42/44 Classic cut plus 2’s A practical, fuller and comfortable fit - 2" (5cm) of cloth overhang from the kneeband
Slender cut plus 2’s A slimmer silhouette and closer fit in back thigh and knee area - 2" (5cm) of cloth overhang from the kneeband
Style Portfolio
43/44 Breeks The cloth goes almost straight into kneeband no overhang. Available in Classic and Slender fit
Plus 3’s 3" (7.6cm) of cloth overhang from kneeband. Available in Classic and Slender fit
Plus 4’s 4" (10cm) of cloth overhang from kneeband. Available in Classic and Slender fit
Style Portfolio
Lining and detailing 44/44 Fully lined (front and back)
Velcro fastening
Strap and buckle fastening
X
Knitted cuff
Half (front) lined
X
Standard cuff 13/4" (4.5cm)
Narrow cuff 1" (2.5cm)
X
Deep cuff 21/2" (6.3cm)
No lining
Tailcoats Style Portfolio
Morning coats 46/48
Evening tail coats 47/48 Notch lapels
Peak lapels
Notch lapels
Tail pocket
Link button
Morning coat with peak lapels
Tailcoat with peak contrast lapels
Flash cuff
Binding detail
Limited standard jacket options available on tailcoats
Style Portfolio
Style Portfolio
Toastmaster coats 48/48 Notch lapels
Contrast lapels
Toastmaster coat (longer fronts) with peak lapels
Tail pocket
Style Portfolio
Outerwear
Single breasted overcoats 50/60
Double breasted overcoats 51/60 Classic cut SB x 4 peaks lapels
Classic cut DB 2 x 3
Classic cut with optional fly front
Classic cut DB 2 x 2 with notch lapels
Classic cut SB x 4 with notch lapels
Classic cut double breasted 3 x 3 peak lapels
A comfortable/easy cut designed to be worn over a jacket
A comfortable/easy cut designed to be worn over a jacket
Style Portfolio
Style Portfolio
Overcoat styling details (all cuts and styles) 52/60 Classic cut DB 3 x 4
Overcoat pocket details 53/60
Centre vent
Classic SB x 4 slant pockets
Classic DB 3 x 3 straight pocket with OTP
X
Classic cut with Raglan sleeve
Style Portfolio
Action shoulder (not available with Raglan sleeve)
Sewn half belt
Plain cuff
Button and vented cuff (multiple options available)
Flash cuff
Contrast button holes (multiple positions available)
Slanting jetted flap pocket and OTP
Extreme slant
Extreme slant + OTP
Patch with flap
Vertical welt pockets
Patch pocket without flap
Contrast flaps
Contrast jetts
Jetted breast pocket
Jetted breast pocket with flap
Style Portfolio
Internal pocket details 54/60
Covert coat 55/60 West End/Covert coat internal pocket combinations RHS AW with ticket and scarf pockets
Classic overcoat internal pocket combinations LHS AW with breast, mobile and scarf pockets
SB x 4 Covert coat regular front with jetted out breast and flap
xxxxxxx
Contrast collar
Under collar melton
Embroidered under collar melton
Button and tab security
Zipper
Many standard jacket options are available on most styles/cuts of overcoat SB x 4 Covert coat with fly front A slimmer cut for use over knitwear or a jacket. Options as Classic overcoat
xxxxxxx
Style Portfolio
Style Portfolio
West End overcoat 56/60
Pea coat 57/60 SB x 4 West End cut with fly front
Pea coat plain back
SB x 4 West End cut with button front
Pea coat sewn on half belt
Pea coat
Internal pocket option as Classic overcoat. Limited external options
SB x 3 West End A very fitted silhouette developed from the jacket block for use over knitwear or a very lightweight jacket
Style Portfolio
Style Portfolio
Field coat 58/60
Field coat details 59/60 Field coat with Raglan sleeves and tonal flaps and collar option
Centre vent
Side vents
Flaps to match Alcantara collar
Jetted hand warmer pockets
Welted hand warmer pockets
No hand warmer pockets
Welted hand warmer pockets to match collar
Jetted hand warmer pockets to match collar
Whistle pockets RHS AW
Whistle pockets LHS AW
Contrast collar
Optional action shoulder and optional sewn on half belt Field coat with swing sleeves
Style Portfolio
Style Portfolio
Trend coat 60/60 Trend coat without hand warmer pockets
Trend coat with loose half belt
Trend coat A slim fitted, contemporary style coat for use over knitwear
Style Portfolio
Style Portfolio
Registered in England and Wales No.8639539 and VAT Registration No.186149676 Email: tailor@henrybailey.co.uk Website: www.henrybailey.co.uk Tel: +44 (0)20 3278 1278 Mob: +44 (0)79444255018 Fax: +44 (0)7006019785