Oslo City Guide
The MAD Peleton bike rike, designed by Norweigen-based design firm, MAD Arkitekter
View of The Monolith, Vigelandsparken
CONTENTS Modern Architecture Oslo Opera House The Barcode Project Akrobaten Pedestrian Bridge Oslo Architecture Triennale: After Belonging Arts & Culture Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art Munch Museum Ekebergparken Sculpture Park Emanuel Vigeland Museum Vigeland Sculpture Park Urban Nature Akerselva River Walk Island Hopping in the Oslo Fjord
Words by Julia Eskins | Photos by Aleyah Solomon
Fringed by forests and filled with a mix of historical and modern attractions, Oslo has asserted itself as a must-visit destination for wide-eyed Euro trippers and culture connoisseurs alike. While visions of Norway’s spectacular landscapes have long enticed outdoor enthusiasts, the nation’s capital boasts the best of both urban and organic worlds. In a single day, you can hike in lush wilderness, sail down a fjord, marvel at modern architecture and wander through bustling neighbourhoods. Rising early is easy when the sun shines for up to 19 hours during the summer. And even in the winter – when Oslo transforms into a picturesque frozen wonderland – the city’s world-class museums, galleries and cozy cafés beckon. To take it all in, we recommend getting the Oslo Pass, an official city card that provides access to galleries, museums and the transit system through a convenient app. Here & There Magazine originally travelled to Oslo for the architecture but quickly became immersed in the city’s varied offerings. As one of Europe’s fastest growing capitals, Oslo is home to countless contemporary buildings. Many feature the innovative modernity that one would expect of Scandinavian design, but also an added quirkiness that is completely unique to Norway. Throughout our trip, we took note of the vibrant arts community and intoxicating blend of culture and green space. We invite you to join us in stepping off the beaten path, as we journey through city and nature, intertwined and evolving.
Oslo’s Barcode Project
Modern architecture is often associated with glass and concrete clad buildings that can be somewhat of an eyesore in historical districts. In Oslo’s case, contemporary structures are strategically designed to complement the existing cityscape – making the capital a hub for architectural innovation.
Oslo Opera House
Oslo Opera House, by Snøhetta (2008) The city’s new era of architecture began when the current Oslo Opera House was unveiled in April 2008. The stunning building, designed by Norwegian firm Snøhetta, is covered in white granite and La Facciata, an Italian carrara marble. The roof of the building angles to the ground, inviting pedestrians to walk up and take in the panoramic views of the city. The interior surfaces are covered in oak, which creates a warm atmosphere that contrasts the cool exterior. Situated in the Bjørvika neighborhood of central Oslo, the building plays host to several events and is home to The Norwegian National Opera and Ballet.
Barcode Project, by MVRDV, DARK Architects, A-lab, Solheim & Jacobsen and Snøhetta (2014) Mass public debate ensued over the development of Oslo’s Barcode Project, a section of multi-purpose high-rise buildings that recently popped up in the revitalized Bjørvika area. The buildings were designed by five different architecture firms: A-lab, Solheim & Jacobsen, Snøhetta, Dark Architects and MVRDV. Whether you view them as monstrosities or exciting beacons of innovation, there’s no denying their epic presence. In fact, the development has completely altered Oslo’s once open, low-rise skyline, separating the city from the fjord in a more definite way.
Akrobaten Pedestrian Bridge, by L2 Architects (2011) Oslo’s ‘Acrobat’ bridge stretches 206 metres across the tracks of Oslo central station, connecting the areas of Grønland and Bjørvika. Designed by a local firm, L2 Architects, the bridge is a popular spot for photo and film shoots due to its geometric steel and glass elements, and spectacular view of nearby futuristic buildings and the Barcode Project.
Oslo Architecture Triennale: After Belonging For those interested in pondering design on a conceptual level, the Oslo Architecture Triennale is an ideal springboard for critical thinking. The 2016 edition, entitled After Belonging, encourages visitors to ponder how populations in transit impact architecture and our definitions of home, community and identity. Running from Sept. 8 to Nov. 27, the festival explores the implications of the refugee crisis, tourism, mobility and the rapid increase of global displacement. The main program focuses on two exhibits: On Residence at the Norwegian Centre for Architecture and Design (DogA) and In Residence at the National Architecture Museum. Curated by five Spanish architects and academics from the namesake After Belonging Agency (based in New York and Rotterdam) the 2016 OAT exemplifies how design deliberations are widening to include socio-political affairs. Even if you’re not a professional architect, the triennale’s exhibits and extended program – including guided tours, seminars and performances – all provide added context while exploring Oslo’s urban centre.
Boasting a range of commercial galleries, publicly funded independent spaces and public institutions, Oslo is home to a supportive community of artists, writers and curators. Generous government support has enlivened the city’s creative spirit, leading to dynamic exhibits at galleries like 1857, Standard (Oslo) and VI, VII. Art openings in newly gentrified areas like Grønland and Grünerløkka draw crowds on a nightly basis, while cafes and bars in Vulkan are constantly bustling. Head to Bla for some live music by the Akerselva river or simply wander down street art-filled alleyways for a true taste of the local scene. Around Oslo, emblems of Oslo’s artistic adoration are often integrated with nature. From She Lies, a public sculpture by Monica Bonvicini that permanently floats in the Oslo Fjord, to the installations in Ekeberg Park, culture punctuates the organic environment. With exciting developments in the works, including a new National Museum of Art, Architecture and Design slated to open in 2017, there’s no better time to check out Oslo’s art scene. She Lies, Monica Bonvicini
Astrup Fearnley Museum of Modern Art Since relocating in 2012 to a new complex designed by internationally acclaimed Italian architect Renzo Piano, the Astrup Fearnley Museum has once again become a destination for design and art devotees. Located in Tjuvholmen on a spit of land that stretches into the fjord, Piano’s design features three buildings separated by a canal yet unified with a glass roof. Outside, Piano’s Tjuvholmen skulpturpark displays works by internationally celebrated artists such as Louise Bourgeois, Antony Gormley, Anish Kapoor, Ellsworth Kelly and Franz West. With a view of Oslofjord, Akershus Castle and Akershus Fortress, the museum’s design is a stunning example of how nature, art and architecture can intermix. The original museum opened in 1993 and was funded by two philanthropic foundations established by descendants of the Fearnley shipping family. Today, the privately owned museum holds an impressive collection focused on American appropriation artists from the 1980s. In recent years, it has expanded its collection to include more works from international contemporary artists like Jeff Koons, Richard Prince, Cindy Sherman, Matthew Barney, Tom Sachs, Doug Aitken, Olafur Eliasson and Cai Guo-Qiang.
Astrup Fearnley Museet
Munch Museum A walk through the world’s largest collection of Edvard Munch artwork provides fascinating insight into the famed Norwegian painter’s psychological themes and pioneering impact on expressionism. The collection consists of works and articles left to the city of Oslo by the artist, including over 1,200 paintings, 18,000 prints, six sculptures, 500 plates, 2,240 books, and other items. Frequent exhibitions showcase the range of Munch’s work, as well as his influence on other prominent artists. Currently housed in a building designed by architects Einar Myklebust and Gunnar Fougner, the museum will soon be relocated to a new building. The City of Oslo hosted an architectural competition in 2008 for a new Munch Museum to be built in the area of Bjørvika, where the Oslo Opera House is also located. Spanish studio Herreros Arquitectos won for their Lambda project, which is slated to open in 2018.
Ekebergparken Sculpture Park A 25-acre green space filled with dozens of sculptures is practically heaven for outdoorsy types who like their hikes with a dose of culture. Set atop the hill that served as the setting of Edvard Munch’s famous painting, The Scream, Ekeberg Hill is still a haven for anyone looking for a bit of inspiration. The sculpture park officially opened in 2013 with a total of 31 sculptures, though more are continually being added. Installations range from contemporary works by artists like Louise Bourgeois, Damien Hirst, Tony Oursler, and Jenny Holtzer, as well as classical sculptures by Rodin, Renoir and Maillol. Norwegian businessman Christian Ringnes donated $70 million to finance the ambitious project, which could see the park expanding its collection to include up to 80 sculptures. The hilltop setting offers unrivalled views of the city, with numerous lookout points scattered along the trails. Early birds and night owls alike will appreciate the fact that the park is open 24/7, 365 days a year, adding to its wild charm.
Marilyn Monroe, 2002 Richard Hudson
Drømmersken (Dreaming Woman), 1992 Knut Steen
British artist Richard Hudson is known for working with organic shapes that blend traditional sculpture with contemporary ideas. Marilyn Monroe, made out of stainless steel, features feminine curves and a primitive quality reminiscent of ancient fertility goddesses.
Norwegian sculptor Knut Steen was renowned for creating works out of granite, concrete, bronze, steel and marble. His sculpture in Ekeberg Park was inspired by his time in Carrara, a place in Italy known for white marble and traditions of stonemasonry.
Klang, 2013 Tony Oursler
The Hulder, 1938 Dyre Vaa
American installation artist Tony Oursler created three site-specific works for the park that comment on technology. The video grotto Klang contrasts its natural surroundings through a series of shifting videos and images on several screens.
Dyre Vaa often incorporated Norwegian folklore into his sculptures, paintings and writing. The Hulder, a bronze form of a female forest spirit, is a character known from the Asbjørnsen and Moe fairy tales about the woodland creatures.
The Dance, 2013 George Cutts Inspired by growing plants, water and light, English sculptor George Cutts creates both static and moving installations. The Dance features long slim forms in constant movement, creating abstract shapes and optical illusions.
The Scream As one of the world’s most recognized paintings, Edvard Munch’s The Scream (currently housed at Oslo’s National Gallery) has long attracted visitors to the city. Though there are many other Munch-related attractions, art lovers are often intrigued by the idea of visiting the real life site of the iconic work, located on Valhallveien road on Ekeberg Hill. In a diary entry dated Jan. 22, 1892, Munch describes his inspiration for the image: “I was walking along a path with two friends - the sun was setting - suddenly the sky turned blood red - I paused, feeling exhausted, and leaned on the fence - there was blood and tongues of fire above the blue-black fjord and the city - my friends walked on, and I stood there trembling with anxiety - and I sensed an infinite scream passing through nature.” When the sculpture park opened, New York-based performance artist Marina Abramovic’s, created a homage to Edvard Munch’s The Scream with 270 Oslo citizens who joined her in screaming out their emotions from the hill. Today, a frame remains, as well as a few benches that invite visitors to sit down and absorb the surroundings, or even indulge in a cathartic scream themselves!
Emanuel Vigeland Museum Multi-talented Norwegian artist Emanuel Vigeland (1875-1948) is best known for his decorations of Scandinavian churches. While his older brother – sculptor Gustav Vigeland – is often the more celebrated of the two, Emanuel’s dark and eccentric life still attracts curiosity. His mausoleum remains a best-kept secret among locals for it’s unique ambiance and fascinating backstory. Located in the neighbourhood of Slemdal, the windowless building is quite ominous, even from the outside. Guests enter the candlelit space by stooping through a heavy iron door that leads to a barrel-vaulted room. Inside, the walls are covered with frescoes that took Vigeland 20 years to complete. The artist began construction on the building in 1926 with the intention of using it to house his artwork but later filled the windows with bricks and made it his resting place. The interior murals and sculptures depict the circle of life from birth to death with erotic and macabre imagery. As if the chilling scenes weren’t enough, the room has haunting acoustics, causing even the smallest footstep to send echoes across the space for 14 seconds. As you can only whisper and creep around quietly, the museum has become a popular spot for first dates. An urn containing the ashes of the artist remains above the low entry, thus forcing all visitors to bow to him when exiting. Rumour has it that Emanuel was irritated by always being in the shadow of his brother Gustav and that this gesture was his posthumous revenge.
The Monolith
Vigeland Sculpture Park Though his style may have been less dark than his brother’s, Gustav Vigeland (1869-1943) was far from an ordinary artist. Just look to Vigeland Park, where 200 of his eccentric works are displayed inside the largest sculpture park in the world created by a single artist. Inside the multifaceted installation, original granite, bronze and cast iron pieces spark conversation – take a peek at the sculpture of the naked man fighting flying babies and you’ll see why. Many of the noteworthy works examine the peculiarity of the human condition, from interpersonal relationships to symbolic imagery. The sculptures stretch across an 850-meter axis in the centre of Frogner Park, one of the city’s most popular green spaces. As you make your way along the boulevard, The Monolith centrepiece is a clear focal point. Located on a plateau, the carved granite sculpture towers at 46 feet and depicts 121 entangled human figures that appear to be fighting their way to the top. The piece symbolizes man’s desire to become closer with the spiritual world. After Vigeland created the structure out of clay in 1924, it took three stone carvers 14 years to complete before it was officially unveiled in 1944. The Monolith is encircled by other naked figures, each one portraying a different stage of humanity. The fountain is another noteworthy attraction, as it is surrounded by several statues representing the circle of life. More points of interest pepper the park, including the bridge designed by Vigeland himself and several bronze works exploring everything from familial love to historical references to Ancient Greece. The bronze statue of the little Angry Boy is among the most famous, along with the Wheel of Life. Throughout his career, Vigeland travelled around Europe often and visited Rodin’s studio in Paris. In addition to the park, he is known for designing the Nobel Peace Prize medal and working on the restoration of the Nidaros Cathedral.
Detail from a wrought iron gate at the Monolith Plateau
Urban Nature Often referred to the capital of culture and nature, Oslo’s scenic location between forests and the fjord make it a gateway city to Norway’s world renowned wilderness. As a result, green space is integrated into the city almost seamlessly with botanical gardens, waterfalls, islands and lakes all within reach. Residents cherish these national treasures, which are generally accessible by foot or public transportation. Even if you’re just visiting for a few days, simply enjoying the city’s park life is the perfect way to experience the Oslo like a local.
Akerselva River walk Oslo’s Akerselva River runs eight kilometres from Maridalsvannet – the city’s largest lake – to the Oslo Fjord. Though the trail is located within the city, its lush foliage and waterfalls can make pedestrians feel as if they’ve been transported to a quaint town in the countryside. Of course, the installations near the art college (Kunsthøyskole) and glimpses of revitalized industrial buildings quickly remind you that you are in fact in a very cosmopolitan location. During the 19th century, Akerselva was a key part of Norway’s industrialization. The river provided power to saw mills, mechanical workshops and textile factories. Today, many of these buildings have been transformed into cafes, galleries and schools. Akerselva is known as the “green lung” of Oslo and a popular recreation area for biking, walking, running and even swimming (yes, you can take a dip in the upper course of the river). It’s also a great place to scope out architecture and picturesque bridges. Walking along the trail to downtown Oslo takes about two hours in total. We recommend making a pit stop at Hønse-Lovisas hus, a café serving traditional Norwegian waffles and coffee beside the stunning Mølla waterfall.
Island Hopping in the Oslo Fjord In Oslo, you don’t have to venture too far to get to an island in the sun. Just south of the city centre is an archipelago of small, forested islands that can be quickly reached by ferry. While some are closer and more popular than others, each island has its own unique character and appeal. Ferries leave regularly from Rådhusbrygge 4 (City Hall Pier 4) and can be boarded using the Oslo Pass or by paying a fare that costs the same amount as the city’s buses or trams. It only takes five minutes to get to Hovedøya, where you can visit the ruins of a Cistercian monastery from 1147. In the middle of the island there is a big field for recreational activities and on the west end you’ll find two beaches with great spots for swimming. Meanwhile, idyllic Lindøya (about a 15-20 minute ferry ride) boasts 300 enchanting summer cottages in red, yellow and green that have become somewhat of a hot commodity among Norwegians. Langøyene offers free camping for up to two nights and is the only island in the innermost Oslo Fjord where tenting is allowed. Aside from following a few rules, this is a great solution for budget travellers or adventurists visiting the city in the summer.
For many, a day spent hiking and marvelling at the Nordic region’s flora and fauna is all it takes to fall in love with the capital’s serene side. To get away from the crowds, head to Gressholmen – Heggholmen – Rambergøya: three connected islands that feel a bit more wild than the rest. Rambergøya and the northern parts of Gressholmen are nature reserves that share a bay renowned for its nesting seabirds. Theses three islands have some historical points of interest as well. One of the oldest lighthouses in the Oslo Fjord still stands on Heggholmen and Norway’s first main airport was built on Gressholmen in 1927 – you can still visit the location, though it’s now a boat yard. After clocking in a busy day on the islands, the cherry on top is the ferry ride back with its impressive view of the city. At this point, the fresh sea air leaves many feeling completely recharged and ready to go: a true testament to the Oslo’s balance of city, nature and endless innovation.
Special thanks to Visit Oslo and the Oslo
Architecture Triennale!
Oslo Opera House rooftop
Š 2016 Here & There Magazine