Herpetoculture Magazine: V1E2 December 2019

2E:1V

DECEMBER 2019

Keep Schneider's Dwarf Caimans Like a Pro! Building Trust with Heloderma Overview of the Puerto Rican Boa

Breeder Spotlight: Jeremy Turgeon of Brass Man Reptiles

And More!

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THIS ISSUE...

3 EDITOR'S NOTE

Cover image shot by Travis DeLagerheim

21 HERPING ISRAEL PART 1

4 SCHNEIDER'S

THE SAGA OF NIPPER READ

DWARF CAIMANS

27 AN OVERVIEW OF THE

WITH TRAVIS DELAGERHEIM

PUERTO RICAN BOA

8 BREEDER SPOTLIGHT

BY ERICK W. HERNANDEZ-CHACON

JEREMY TURGEONÂ BRASSMAN RETPILES

32 13 TAMAULIPAS BOAS

BUILDING TRUST: ACHIEVING A TOLERANT HELODERMA

BY PHIL WOLF

BY BRIAN BURRELL

37 MORELIA SPOTLIGHT:

16 BOOK REVIEW

NOVA GUINEAS

18 CHINESE CAVE

38 HERP ROOM JAMS 40 NEXT ISSUE...

GECKOS

WITH ROB HOKE

Contributors

Justin Smith Editor @palmettocoastexotics

Billy Hunt Editor @uwabamireptiles

Erik Hernandez - Chacon Contributor

Phil Wolf Contributor @knobtails.ig

Brian Burrell Contributor @imperialconstrictors

Robert Hoke Contributor @geckomase

Jeremy Turgeon Contributor @Brassmanreptiles

Nipper Read Contributor @nipperread

Travis DeLagerheim Contributor @travisaurus_rex60

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Editor's Note

Welcome to the second issue of Herpetoculture Magazine! The response from the first issue has been incredible. The idea behind this project was to bring quality content to every hobbyist, from the novice to the seasoned veteran. The whole reason we decided to embark on this endeavor was to give something to the hobby that we felt was missing. A place that someone could go for information about anything in the hobby. It can be difficult now to find information with how most social media platforms are setup.

Forums are all but gone, books aren’t as popular, so a free digital publication just made sense. In searching for content, I reassured myself why this was worth all the effort. The willingness to contribute I have seen from everyone we reached out to has been amazing. Finding dedicated hobbyist that are willing to share their knowledge is vital to the success to this publication. Thank you all for willing to share your knowledge and experiences so the hobby can reap the benefits. So without further ado, sit back and enjoy issue #2!

Justin Smith Billy Hunt Editors-in-Chief

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Keeping Schneider's Dwarf Caimans

Like a Pro

By Travis DeLagerheim

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In the wild...

Paleosuchus trigonatus (also known as the smooth-fronted caiman or Schneider's Dwarf Caiman) is the 2nd smallest member of the Alligatoraide family next to the only other member of the genus Paleosuchus, Paleosuchus palpebrosus. P. trigonatus are from the Amazon and Orinoco basins in South America where they live in cold, fast flowing streams Trigonatus are one of the more terrestrial crocodilians. Instead of laying on the bank of a river or the shore of a lake, trigonatus prefer to reside in burrows underground. While hatchlings rely on feeding mainly in water, adults are well adapted to hunt on land feeding on small mammals, birds and small reptiles.

Male trigonatus are very territorial and will scare smaller, weaker males away during breeding season. They breed at the end of the dry season, with females laying anywhere from five to ten eggs. The females build their nests out of decaying vegetation and after approximately 100 days the eggs begin to hatch. Unlike most reptiles, P. trigonatus, and all members of the crocodilian family for that matter, are paternal. Females help the babies dig out of the nest and remain close to the nesting site as the hatchlings grow providing protection from potential predators during the first few weeks of their lives.

Hatchlings have many natural predators including fish, birds, turtles, lizards, snakes and even other caiman; while the adults have very few, mainly jaguars or anacondas. Trigonatus are the most heavily armored species of crocodilian which helps protect them from predators. In addition to protecting themselves from predators, it also protects them from being hunted for their skin since it is not useful as a leather product. While deforestation and pollution do pose threats to this species, they are listed as "least concern"Â by the ICUN and have a wild population of over one million.

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"Do your research on their husbandry requirements, costs involved, and make sure you have the space to house them long term."

In captivity...

Paleosuchus trigonatus, or "trigs", are one of the most widely kept crocodilians in captivity given their common availability and smaller size. Babies are small, cute, and relatively harmless which makes them very appealing to many buyers. While these animals animals are what is considered to be "dwarf crocodilians" they can still grow up to six and a half feet in length and weigh up to 50 pounds, however most are in the 5 foot range and weigh 20 to 30 pounds.

Despite their smaller size, trigonatus are incredibly fast and powerful animals and generally have an aggressive attitude. These are apex predators and should be treated as such. While a hatchling caiman will be shy or reclusive when confronted, an adult will become defensive. An adult will hiss, tail whip and even try to bite when approached. A bite from an adult would need, at the very least, stitches and could potentially require surgery.

Although these animals are widely available in the pet trade, very few people are capable of caring for them once they reach adulthood given their size, disposition and cost.

Hatchlings require a 75 gallon tank with a combination of land and water areas.

Commercially, there aren't many other tank options for caimans that are over 1½-2 feet in length. Once the animal is in the juvenile size range (2-3 feet) a custom enclosure will need to be built. Water troughs and preformed ponds are commonly used for indoor enclosures. Juvenile animals will need a minimum enclosure size of 4x8 feet and adults will need an 8x10 foot enclosure.

Water quality and correct lighting is vital to your animals health. Canister filters are needed to handle the waste produced and to create water flow for the animal. A filter that cycles your water at least once an hour is ideal; 300 gallons of water/300 GPH (gallons per hour). On top of filters, your animal will also need a basking area that reaches around 90°. While trigonatus aren't known for basking as much as other crocodilians, it is important that a basking spot is provided.

While there are different opinions on whether or not UVB lighting is necessary, it certainly won't negatively affect the animal.

Providing the correct diet for your animal is the most important aspect of keeping trigonatus. No matter the size of caiman you have, whole prey items should make up the majority of the animals diet.

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For hatchlings you can offer them minnows, rosies, insects, pinky or fuzzy mice, and even feeder frogs or lizards if you'd like. As adults the diet will mainly consist of rodents, birds, and whole fish.

Conclusion...

Before you purchase a baby trigonatus, please do your research on their husbandry requirements, costs involved, and make sure you have the space to house them long term. If possible, reach out to keepers or rescues in your community and see if you can get some hands on experience with these animals before you decide to purchase them. With a lifespan of up to 50 years these animals should only be owned by those who can handle the commitment. That being said, trigonatus can be very rewarding animals to keep if you are able to meet the requirements for them to thrive.

All photos were provided by Travis, to see more of his AWESOME photography follow him at @travisaurus_rex 60

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Breeder Spotlight Jeremy Turgeon of Brass Man Reptiles

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Jeremy Turgeon has been busy on social media over the last few years as Brass Man Reptiles. He recently was brought onto the team at N.E.R.D. but still has is own projects. We sat down with him and got the details.

HM: What was the first species that made you decide to take the hobby to the next level with breeding?

JT: Like so many others, Ball Pythons. I had bred other snake species before and lizards as well, but BPs really pushed it over the edge for me to take things to the next level. I think partly because when I really got into it I would go study from Kevin up at NERD in how to ID genes in different combos. I’m still not perfect at it over a decade later, but that really helped me as I started to grow my collection!

HM: You definitely have diverse tastes in what you breed/ have bred in the past. Do you ever see yourself focusing more on one group or species in the future or will you always need to have different projects going on at once?

JT: I like too many different things to truly zero in on one species! Back in the day, I think I had 25 different species I was working with give or take a few.

I’m definitely headed that way again! Haha! I’m working with Burms, Retics, Ball Pythons, Jungle Carpets, Coastal Carpets, Bredli, Blood Pythons, Borneo Short Tail Pythons, Amazon Tree Boas, North Mexican Pines, Rufous Beaked Snakes, Leopard Geckos, and have plans for a few more species of snakes in the near future. I like having a little of this and a little of that.

"Growing up my mentors all had diverse collections. Adam Harris, Kevin McCurley and Brian Barczyk all helped me grow in some capacity as a keeper and all have had and still do have diverse collections."

Growing up my mentors all had diverse collections. Adam Harris, Kevin McCurley and Brian Barczyk all helped me grow in some capacity as a keeper and all have had and still do have diverse collections. What I have been able to do is try to zero in and focus on specific things within each species I want to work with. For example: Caramel Labyrinth Burms, OGS Retics, Ocelot Jungle Carpets, etc.

HM: You recently started working at N.E.R.D. what's your official title and what do you do on a day to day basis?

JT: I’m incredibly honored to be working at NERD! I came in taking the Facility Manager position. I float throughout the building and oversee everything that’s happening in the facility between animal care, breeding projects, setting up and IDing baby snakes, monitoring the website and social media accounts etc. We have a really solid core of people at NERD - some people here have been with Kev since the very beginning of it all, and I am again so honored Kevin reached out to me to take this position.

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HM: How has that compared to working with your own animals at home?

JT: It’s a much different ball game! I have just under 100 animals of my own, and NERD easily has thousands! I’d love to say I have experience with every species Kevin has at the facility, but there are some species I’ve never been able to work with over the years. It’s given me a chance to learn and increase my knowledge, which I truly enjoy. Overall the tasks are the same for me, the scale of it all is what’s different. Time management is key!

HM: What's your favorite species at the NERD facility to work with so far?

JT: Hmm… that’s tough because I enjoy them all so much. I really enjoy getting to spend time with baby monitors and caiman!

HM: What are your plans for the future of BMR? JT: At the moment… continuing to grow a little more.

There’s a few more species I want to add into my collection, some are common species I’ve had in the past, others aren’t. I don’t want to get much larger than where I’m at, after all, I’m doing some Burm and Retic projects that will require me to hold back JT: Ya know, back in 2011, I had the chance to hang various animals so I need to make sure I have space out with Brian Barczyk at BHB for an entire week. for that. I don’t want to expand to anything more That was when he had his bigger place. That week that could be held in my basement to be completely was a pivotal point in my reptile keeping career because up until then, I had dreamed of having a huge honest. Especially seeing as how I travel a lot for facility with tons of animals. I had of course been to music work and expos, etc and for the most part, I do NERD many times but only had the chance to be up everything in my collection by myself... my buddy for a day at a time so never saw the real daily grind. Chris helps me out when he can too.

SO, while being at BHB was an amazing experience, it REALLY opened my eyes as to what that all would entail and I realized that wasn’t what I wanted for my personal collection. It didn’t change my desire to work with reptiles at all though - just the scale I was to do it at. This job at NERD is certainly a dream job and I’m grateful for it. I’ve been blessed my entire life to be able to pursue both my life’s passions as careers - music and reptiles. So I’ve been (to quote Jay Brewer) Living the Dream my entire life, and I’m blessed to do so!

HM: You now have what a lot of us in the hobby would consider a dream job. Is it everything you hoped or thought it would be?

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HM: What unpopular or under appreciated species do you see gaining more traction in the hobby in the near future?

JT: I’ve seen a few species really get a lot of attention in recent years and it seems to be continuing to go that way, which is great!

Carpets, Blood Pythons and Borneo Short Tail Pythons would be the biggest ones. There are others too like Viper Boas. I believe a huge part of that is color variations. Often when it comes to Carpets, Bloods and Borneo STPs babies may look nice, but go through a lot of visual changes as they mature. This can make them a tough sell often as babies compared to a Boa or BP or Retic that may be completely stunning basically right from the get go. Also those species tend to have a bad reputation passed around from people who (more often than not) didn’t know how to successfully manage one of those animals. They aren’t Ball Pythons. They aren’t too difficult to manage, but you definitely need to be a bit more dialed in with your husbandry. With the booming of morphs in Carpets, Bloods and Short Tails, it’s certainly not unheard of for the popularity to increase.

HM: What unpopular or under appreciated species do you see gaining more traction in the hobby in the near future?

JT: Two things… First…. NETWORK!!! Find the people who also work with the species you enjoy and reach out to them. Social media has made the ability to communicate incredibly easy… but make sure you look deeper than those trending vloggers out there. Not digging at anyone… but the vlog scene is new… there are plenty of “old timers” still around who can REALLY provide info you can’t always get from looking at a Facebook post. Second… Work with what you like!! Don’t try to chase the dollar - you will be disappointed! If you love odd stuff not many people work with… GO FOR IT! Yes, your market may be much smaller than that for Ball Pythons, Retics, etc, but you need to enjoy what you do! On the flip side - if you like BP, Retics, Corn Snakes or anything that’s much more common - do it!! Don’t let anyone dictate your passion!

"there are plenty of “old timers” still around who can REALLY provide info you can’t always get from looking at a Facebook post."

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HM: Finally, if you were forced to keep only ONE genus what would it be?

JT: Man, that’s a hard one - but I’d probably have to say Morelia. I’ve truly enjoyed working with them over the years and don’t think I could see myself ever NOT working with them.

Stay updated with what Jeremy is up to and follow him at @brassmanreptiles!

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Tamaulipas Boas

By Brian Burrell

Mexico is home to a very diverse range of Boa imperator. Their size and appearance change drastically depending on the region but One locality in particular, hails from the northeastern state of Mexico called, Tamaulipas. In Tamaulipas, boas can be found all along the southern part of the state. To the east, the boas are quite large and less colorful but to the west, in the mountains, is home for a colorful dwarf locality which is one kept in captivity.

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The only Tamaulipas locality that is worked with in captivity can be referred to as Tamaulipas Cloud Forest Boas. The area that they inhabit is a tropical deciduous forest around 1100 meters above sea level. In winter, which is the dry season for that region, the temperatures can drop down to the low 50’s and because of that it makes it a very hardy boa to work with in captivity.

These boas are much different than other localities and unfortunately aren’t commonly kept in captivity due to their “brown color” but they are very much an underrated locality.

When neonates, their main coloring is grey with brown saddles and markings. As they mature they start developing a deep red/copper coloring extending up their sides to their backs.

The saddles turn a deeper brown which contrasts with the lighter brown coloring that replaces some of the grey they were born with.

They transform from just another drab boa to a boa that could contend with any other imperator locality out there.

These boas are much different than other localities and unfortunately aren’t commonly kept in captivity due to their “brown color” but they are very much an underrated locality.

When neonates, their main coloring is grey with brown saddles and markings. As they mature they start developing a deep red/copper coloring extending up their sides to their backs.

The saddles turn a deeper brown which contrasts with the lighter brown coloring that replaces some of the grey they were born with.

They transform from just another drab boa to a boa that could contend with any other imperator locality out there.

An advantage of keeping this locality is that they are true dwarves, meaning they are anincredibly easy boa to work with because of their size. It is reported that adults usually max outat less than 5 feet but most do not seem to even go past the 4 foot mark and if any of them do then it is not by much.

"These boas are much different than other localities and unfortunately aren’t commonly kept in captivity due to their “brown color” but they are very much an underrated locality."

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Due to their smaller size they can be kept in a variety of different tub sizes or enclosures. I recommend at least a 32qt or 41qt tub. I have heard reports that some individuals keep and breed them in 28qt tubs. They will also do great in cages and do not seem to mind the extra space as long as there are ample hiding places.

They are a great boa to keep in racks or in display enclosures.

Their temperature requirements are also pretty simple. I keep them between 79-81 degrees normally with a hot spot of 88 degrees. During the winter I drop them down to 73- 75 degrees and drop the hotspot to 86 degrees.

As far as feeding goes they do not seem to be picky in what they eat and have a great feeding response. Just in my observations alone these boas seem to apply a lot more force than any other Central American locality when it comes to constricting prey. When feeding it is important not to overfeed as with most dwarf boas they don’t require much food and tend to become overweight rapidly.

I personally feed them like I would any other dwarf boa, with neonates eating every 10 to14 days, sub-adults eating every 2 to 3 weeks, and then adults eating every 4 to 6 weeks. These boas are truly built to survive; they do great with less than 12 feedings per year.

They are tolerant of handling but can be nervous the first couple of years. As neonates they tend to hiss a lot but it is mainly all show.

Once out of the tub they calm down fairly fast. It all depends on the individual as well but most will calm down with frequent handling.

All things considered, I think they are a perfect choice for a pet boa for those that are looking for something a little smaller than a Colombian or other locality but are searching for something a little more unique and uncommon.

They are a must have for any locality enthusiast and make a great addition for anyone looking for a rare and colorful locality. They are truly an extraordinary locality and it is recommended not to cross breed to preserve the locality for futuregenerations.

See more Tamaulipas boas by following Brian at @imperial_constrictors 15

Herp Book Review Honduran Milksnakes: A Collective History of Honduran Milksnakes for the Hobbyist Honduran Milksnakes: A collective history or Honduran Milksnakes For The Hobbyist is a great book full of information pertaining to everything possible about Honduran milksnakes.

It gives you the basic information such as standard husbandry and what to look for when picking a milksnake. One of my favorite characteristics of this book is that if it is covering a topic, it goes in depth into that subject. Another cool thing the authors did with this book is color code the chapters.

Each chapter has a different color on the outside edge of the page so you know which chapter you are currently in or which one you are looking for. Visually this book is very appealing. It is colorful and is full of high-quality pictures. As far as information, just about half of this book is on breeding, genetics, and the different mutations and lines that are found in Honduran milks.

As I stated before, they go in depth into genetics and Punnett squares so after you read that portion of the book you feel confident in your ability to understand basic genetics. They also cover some of the lines that have been established in the hobby with the history behind that specific line.

So, if you are interested in Honduran milksnakes at all, this book is a must have for your snake library. The information in this book is invaluable. Doug Mong and James Tintle definitely out did themselves when they put this book together.

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Chinese Cave Geckos ROAD Goniurosaurus hainanensis

By Rob Hoke

BLUES Introduction

Â

With over ten different species of Goniurosaurus now recognized and the popularity of the genus in the hobby becoming much more prevalent, I was thrilled to accept the offer to write on one of my favorite species within the complex.

Goniurosaurus hainanensis, commonly

referred to as Chinese Cave Gecko, is a medium sized gecko from the Hainan island south of China. It can be distinguished from other members of the genus by its two body bands, a band at the base of the tail, and a head band that wraps to touch the corner of the mouth.

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These bands typically start off as faded white/pale yellow and will then turn bright orange and fade to yellow as the gecko ages. A nocturnal, terrestrial gecko that reaches an adult size of 4-6” snout to vent and approximately 4070g. These fantastic geckos are just as hardy and easy to keep as the much more common Leopard gecko. Truly a favorite genus of mine to work with and a species that can be kept by all.

Housing & feeding

I house my Hainanensis in a 32qt tub in a rack system. If you are using a glass terrarium a 10g size is adequate for a single animal, 20g long will suffice for a pair. Humidity will need to be monitored however as glass enclosures lose much more humidity than rack systems. I keep 1.1 or 0.1 in any given tub and move the male throughout up to 3 females in a given season. I have not noticed any less fertilization rates at these pairings compared to a 1:1 ratio. The tubs have approximately 1.5” of substrate, I mix 1:1 coco fiber and a fir/sphagnum blend and then add leaf litter, cypress mulch, and charcoal. All of my goniurosaurus tubs are fully bioactive and include cultures of buffalo beetles, springtails, and various sp. of isopod. The cypress, leaf litter, and charcoal are included in the substrate to ensure the cultures thrive. I place multiple hides throughout the enclosure, some are commercial rock hides with a porousness that increases the humidity inside the hide. I also use pieces of cork bark and clay pots broken in half.

The tubs are heated via back placed heat tape, this is controlled via thermostat so as the back 1/4 of the enclosure approaches 80* and the ambient drifts down to 70* at the cool end. As mentioned above humidity is a factor when keeping any species of Goniurosaurus. It should be maintained in the upper 60* with heavy mistings at least every other day. A standing water dish is not necessary as eyelid geckos typically drink droplets of water from decor or the sides of the enclosure.

Given that these are nocturnal geckos, no lighting or UVB is required, however dusting feeders that have been properly gut-loaded is essential. I prefer Repashy Calcium Plus and feed crickets 3-5 x weekly depending on the season. Hainan’s will also take dubia and other roaches, and some will even take mealworms. I dust every feeding and have found no additional calcium supplementation is necessary with this product. Likewise, since UVB is not recommended nor necessary for a nocturnal species such as this, ensure no matter which vitamin you choose that it does have D3.

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Sexing & Breeding

This species, and genus in whole, is very easily sexed and usually can be accurately sexed by 6-9 months of age. Similar to most other eyelid gecko species males are visually sexed via pre-anal bulges and pores that align the base of the tail. Females will lack all of this. I hold off on breeding all of my Goniurosaurus until their third winter, usually being at least 2.5-3 years old at that point. This ensures proper maturation and since these are typically slow growing geckos due to the cooler temperatures it is best not to rush them into a project.

Breeding is just as easy as these in my experience are seasonal breeders. Given that I keep my breeders in groups year round and I am located in an area with distinguished seasons, I do not need to adjust my thermostat at all and usually begin seeing ovulations in early winter and eggs on the ground by February about 3-4 weeks after the first copulations have occurred.

If you do live in a more temperate area with less seasonal change, a brief cooling (approximately 5 degrees is all that is needed) and off-feeding period of a month will help to stimulate ovulations. Females will become visibly gravid usually by the end of week two when the developing eggs can be seen from the underside and the female will slowly go off food until the clutch is laid. Females will continue to lay about every 30 days and will lay anywhere from 2-6 clutches per season. Eggs are typically buried in the substrate in a humid area of the enclosure away from the direct heat source.

I remove all of my eggs within a day or two of deposition and incubate between 75-78* eggs typically hatch in 60-90 days. I have not noticed any sex dependency on temperature. However, longer incubation times, typically those that go past 85 days, yield majority of females in my experience. I incubate all of my eggs on Repashy SuperHatch due to its ability to sufficiently hold humidity throughout incubation periods.

Conclusion

These animals are quite simple to keep and being prolific breeders adds to the enjoyment of having them in a collection. With the popularity of cave geckos in general rising, prices are becoming reasonable with hainanensis being among the easiest to find readily available and usually not over the $100 mark. Next time you venture to your local reptile show be sure to look around for these magnificent animals and consider this up and comer for the next addition to your collection.

Follow Rob Hoke at @GeckoMase

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Herping Israel

Part one: The North

With Nipper Read

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Some time ago, I was recovering from a serious operation (don’t be sad, I’m like Wolverine, indestructible) I was a bit “morphine-ed” up and under the strict instruction from the Surgeon to have a period of complete rest and recuperation. As any field herper knows, this is doctor jargon for “ go off into the desert and herp your guts out son.”

Wishing to aid my recovery, my good friend Jurgen invited me to accompany him on a trip to find as many venomous species as possible in the herping Mecca (pun intended) that is Israel.

I finally cleared customs as a single male traveler, with a bag of snake hooks, camera equipment, and no idea where I was staying; let's just say security at Tel Aviv airport is “robust”. After only a brief period of waterboarding I headed Israel is an amazing country. Forgetting the outside to meet Jurgen. political and religious shenanigans and the Jurgen is a most excellent field herper fact that Israel is smaller than most from Bavaria. Widely experienced in backyards in the U.S., the scenery, habitat herping in both the US and Europe, he has and shear number of herp species makes it an absolute passion for vipers, rivaling one of the best herping destinations in the my own. He also takes grumpy and sarcastic Middle East in my honest opinion. to Olympic levels.

So despite protests from my loved ones, Outside the terminal, Jurgen was smoking, after a last decent cup of tea, I left home at 3:30 to drive to the airport. A pleasant- his natural state since he basically runs on nicotine, caffeine, and swearing. After ish flight later and I was in Tel Aviv. the perfunctory greetings and islander After almost three weeks of constant rain, insults, we collected the hire car and the sunshine that greeted me was most headed to our destination in northern welcoming.

Israel. For those of you that have not had the joy of driving with Jurgen just think of Grand Theft Auto, he drives a car like he stole it.

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As we neared our base for the next three days, an area with both steppe like and Mediterranean habitat, we encountered our first D.O.R. snake, a stunning Malpolon (Montpellier Snake). A very different looking individual to the other Malpolon I have encountered elsewhere in Europe, very reddish in colour.

We arrived at our base and relaxed. Jurgen smoked as I moaned about the lack of tea for five minutes . Soon we hit the minor roads to look for herps and meet up with Israel’s top boys, Guy and Aviad. It was just getting dark and temps were good, so we were hopeful of an eventful night.

We met Guy and his charming wife Leum.

Both Guy and Aviad have charming partners, that herp with them and don’t seem to mind their obsessive interest in such things. I am also lucky enough to have a fiancée that manages to remain incredibly enthusiastic as she wanders about in the field, flipping rocks looking for snakes while remaining beautiful and immaculate.

I look like a homeless person within a few minutes of leaving the car. A supportive partner cannot be underestimated, it’s like winning the lottery.

Guy had kindly brought us a welcoming gift in the form of a sub-adult Daboia. He had removed the huge viper from someones’ house earlier. Flowers or chocolate are the norm, but Jurgen and myself could not have been happier.

We started scanning the roads for herps as the golden hours of 20:00 to 21:30 were upon us. It wasn’t long before Guy spotted a second Daboia. Jurgen was so excited he nearly stopped smoking. Nearly.

"Guy had kindly brought us a welcoming gift in the form of a sub-adult Daboia. He had removed the huge viper from someones’ house earlier." hen Guy spotted a Mole Viper, Atractaspis engaddensis, one of our top ticks for the trip list. A stunning snake, with a very curious stike/bite action, this snake has a very small gape, so they strike with sideways, not vertical fangs, in a bizarre side to side motion.

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As we were laying around taking excited pics of the mole viper, in my peripheral vision I could see cute little mice running around the desert floor, sometimes they would run over my leg, between shots I stopped to closely examine the mouse on my leg only to realize, with utter horror, the cute little mice were actually Solifuges or camel spiders as they are commonly known.These primitive tarantulas are pretty much all teeth and legs!

I like to think of myself as a gnarly dude with a long time in law enforcement and I’d like to say I calmly brushed the camel spider off and went back to taking award winning pictures but no. I jumped up shedding clothing like a stripper on meth and screaming like a drag queen that just had her best heels stolen. After my heart rate came down to double figures we continued herping, finding some cool species such as the Long-Nosed Worm Snake Myriopholis macrorhyncha.

Sadly, we later found a dying Daboia which I had to dispatch. Unfortunately, D.O.R.’s were all too common. To cheer us up Guy found a fabulous little Telescopus nigrocephalus, the Black-Headed Cat Snake.

Aviad finally joined us and, in typical Israeli style, also brought us a snake in the form of a Black-Headed Ground Snake, Rhynchocalamus melanocephalus.

We herped into the night and after thanking our guides, Jurgen and I headed back to our base, grey foxes and Jackals were seen on the ride back, along with many other small mammals. As we approached our accommodation, the last herp of the night presented itself on a roadside outcrop. A stunning Ptyodactylus guttatus, the Sinai Fan-Fingered Gecko, that was out hunting.

We sat, Jurgen smoking, me moaning more about not having a cup of tea for 19+ hours and listened to Jackals howling in the distance, before finally turning in for a few hours sleep.

Up after a pants sleep, we then headed further North, for my biggest objective of the trip, the Lebanon Viper, Montivipera bournmuelleri. En route, we stopped at a roadside ditch that actually had water in it! The ditch was like a tadpole soup complete with some Levant Water Frogs,Pelophylax bedriagae. Who were taking full advantage of the conditions.

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One disgusted Jurgen, scoffing at my joy of also finding dragonflies, stomped off to smoke and curse Islanders but found a number of juvenile Natrix tessellata, or Dice Snakes, while doing so.

We carried on, our objective however was in an area of military occupation which meant our target habitat was not accessible. Unfortunate and disappointing but at least the vipers have the best protection of any herp in the area.

We searched for suitable habitat outside the military zone and found Lacerta media israelica, Ptyodactylus puiseuxi, Phoeniocolacerta laevis, Ophisops elegans, Erienis levantinus, Erienis rothi , Trachylephis vittata, and Laudakia stellio. As well as many arachnids and insects, including the biggest grasshopper I have ever seen, that was the size of a mouse. Even Jurgen paused momentarily to catch a glimpse of that warlock.

Back on the road to HQ, Jurgen was waxing on about how Daboia are the sexiest snake in the world while smoking and I sat wondering if Jurgen is a robot, as he doesn’t seem to sleep, eat, drink or poo.

A true nicotine based life form.

We stopped at a man-made irrigation lake.

While stopped, Jurgen spotted some tree frogs and to his immense joy, a Testudo. Jurgen rarely shows emotion but I swear I saw the traces of a smile between Marlboros.

We finally made it back to base to eat and refuel but we were itching to get back on the road for more road cruising. We waited for the golden hour and with no hesitations began our search. We found a very fast Daboia and a not so fast Javelin Sand Boa, Eryx jaculus. It was such a joy to see sand boas in their natural habitat, as I have kept many at home.

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We stopped at about 23:30 hours and decided to have an early night. Jackals and other mammals were seen on our return to base. The next day we were out early at one of the few wetland areas in Israel, home of the Painted frog. This species was once thought to have gone extinct but, fortunately, was rediscovered at this site and thriving.

Jurgen was clearly too afraid to leave the car, so I took it upon myself to move the living road block. After the amphibious ordeal, a quick pot of noodles and bed was on the agenda. We were travelling South in the morning onto new habitat and new herps.

Few herps were to be found at the Painted Frog site but large mammals and fish were in abundance. We did see the usual frog, green toad and terrapin as well as more stunning dragonflies.

Stopping off on the way back we found Typhlops ermicularis, another variety of worm snake and Hemidactylus turcicus, the ever present Turkish gecko. Soon we were into our last night of Northern Israeli road cruising. Jurgen was double smoking as it was his last chance at finding more Daboia. We stumbled upon more D.O.R. snakes and were very lucky to find an adult Rhynchocalamus melanocephalus and another Eryx jaculus.

After a few hours of searching, we called it and headed back to HQ only to find the entrance blocked by a mighty beast in the form of Bedriages Frog.

Join us next issue for part 2 - Moving South...

Follow Nipper at @nipperread for more photos of his travels!

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CHILABOTHRUS INORNATUS: AN OVERVIEW OF THE PUERTO RICAN BOA

BY: ERICK W. HERNANDEZCHACON 27

Intro Chilabothrus inornatus; the Puerto Rican Boa (PRB) is an endemic boa that inhabits the island of Puerto Rico. This snake, known as Culebrón by Puerto Rican natives, is considered threatened in its native habitat.

However, thanks to the efforts of a few dedicated keepers, we can enjoy them in the hobby field as well.

Their status is “CITES I” meaning they cannot be transported across state lines or sold outside of the state they were bred in. I was born and raised in Puerto Rico, so this species of snake has a special place in my heart. I have been working with them for almost 10 years now and couldn’t be happier with this lesser known boa in the reptile hobby.

Natural History The Puerto Rican boa can be found throughout the island although they tend to prefer caves, bluffs and mogotes (rolling sandstone hills) in the center of the island. They can also be found in and around urban areas. They are opportunistic hunters like most boids eating rats, birds and lizards.

This is a species that has adapted well to urban living despite locals fearing them. They are often found in sheds, chicken coops, and at times inside homes. In the wild, they can reach a length of up to eight feet, although the average for the species is around six feet.

They are slow growers with individuals maturing at five+ years of age and living well into their 20s.

Their color palette is normally shades of brown, black, and other earth tones that are ideal camouflage for forest floors and cave walls.

Wild Adult Puerto Rican Boa Photo Credit: Francisco Javier Vicens

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There have been cases of red and even axanthic individuals in the wild, but these are seldom seen.

Their patterns tend to vary, with some keeping their pattern throughout adulthood while others become almost pattern-less as they mature.

I routinely find them “greeting” me as I enter the room begging for food. A well-established individual will eat anything offered; I tend to feed mine rats and or mice every 10-15 days, even for neonates.

Breeding in their natural habitat tends to happen around April/May. Later, in the months of August and early September, females start giving birth.

Litters tend to be anywhere from 10-26 babies, they are born with a reddish-brown coloration.

Newborns, referred to as neonates, typically go through their first shed soon after they are born.

Neonates primarily feed on lizards, which can be tricky when starting to rear them in captivity.

Maintenance Well established individuals are easy to maintain and care for in captivity. I keep mine the same way I keep my carpet pythons. I house my adult animals in 4’x2’ cages with hide boxes and some perches. They tend to stay on the ground or on top of their hides so the use of shelving might be beneficial. Room temperatures are 78°- 80°F with a basking spot of around 88°F. There is no standard on temperatures and in the wild, temperatures can vary greatly. They can tolerate hotter temperatures or colder temperatures down to the low 70’s with no problems. They tend to be very curious and will often bask in the open.

"There is no standard on temperatures and in the wild, temperatures can vary greatly. They can tolerate hotter temperatures or colder temperatures down to the low 70’s with no problems."

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Breeding I successfully had my first litter of PRBs in 2018.

There are plenty of ways to be successful when breeding this species, but this is what worked best for me. From the months of August through September I fed mine more frequently than usual, giving them a meal every 5-7 days rather than every 10-15 days.

By October, I stop their feeding and let them “empty out” for a few weeks. After I am sure they have fully digested their final meal, I start reducing temperatures at night to about 75°F, but keep the heat spot on. After a few weeks, I introduce the male to the female’s cage.

At this time, I leave them together until it’s time to bring temperatures back to normal. In about 3-4 weeks’ time, I raise the temperature back to the usual 78°- 80°F all day, separate the pair, and offer food to both the male and the female.

I keep pairing until the female appears to be gravid. I keep offering food to the female every 10 days or so even after she has had her ovulation.

With this routine, babies were born on the second week of August with a litter size of 12. Now this is were the fun part begins.

Establishing Neonates I house my neonates in six-quart shoebox-style containers with an under-belly heat tape (85°F hot spot). A hide box, water bowl, and coconut shavings for bedding are all you need. They like to burrow under substrate so be sure to use a loose bedding to aid in “digging” that can hold a little moisture to help shedding. Getting neonates to start feeding can be a challenge but thanks to living in the golden age of reptile keeping, we have a few tools we can use before we start pulling our hair out.

Out of 12 neonates, only one ate unscented pinky mice on the first try; the rest of them needed a little encouragement. I decided to give the Reptilink scent products a try and bought: frog scent, anole scent, and iguana mini links.

I tried offering the iguana mini links and had one taker; however, most of my success with the links was using them for scenting purposes. After a month, I had all the neonates switched to unscented pinky mice. After that, it’s smooth sailing. I was able to switch from mice to rats without any hesitation or the use of scenting.

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For every feeding trial, I did the following: I washed the pinkies with a de-scented hunting soap to eliminate any rodent smell Then I submerged the pinkies in hot water for a minute to ensure they were nice and hot (sometimes a hot pinky is enough to entice a hungry baby).

I applied one drop of scent to each pinky and let them sit for a few seconds.

I offered each neonate a scent covered pinky and left it in their cage overnight.

Conclusion If you are looking for an unusual snake that few people see, look no further than the PRB. The PRB has a lot to offer those seeking to keep uncommon boas or something off the beaten path. It is a very resilient and easy to keep species that's full of attitude.

They are very rewarding to keep, knowing that we have an established and healthy population in the trade. It is up to us to keep this species alive for this hobby.

Erick W. Hernandez-Chacon of Basuca's Ectotherms

I did this at night every week, or every other week, trying a new scent and marking the ones that ate with what scent worked.

After three solid meals with the scented prey, I offered a washed pinky without scenting.

Finally, I offered an un-altered pinky for the next meal.

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Building Trust Achieving a Tolerant Heloderma By PHIL WOLF

So you’ve made the plunge into keeping a venomous lizard?

Congratulations!Now comes the painstaking months of tolerance training! For those who are unaware,the family of Helodermatidae, is a family of large, terrestrial lizards found in the southwestern regions of North America and into Central America. Oh, and they happen to bevenomous!

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Within this family, is the genus Heloderma, comprised of two main lizards, the Gila Monster and the Beaded Lizard. Both species are highly venomous, with a toxic bite used for incapacitating prey as well as a form of defense.

Most venomous snakes have venom injecting fangs that act like hypodermic needles. The venom is delivered to the fang from glands on the top of the snake’s head. Gilas and Beadeds have a different system, instead having grooved channels running the length of each tooth. And unlike snakes, Heloderm’s venom glands are located in their bottom jaw.

From there, the venom seeps out and mixes with the lizards’ saliva. This means that every bite from a Heloderm is venomous! A common mistake spread by a lot of people, is that Gilas and Beadeds must chew on their prey to inject their venom. This is completely false. Every bite from a Heloderm has the full potential for envenomation.

From there, the venom seeps out and mixes with the lizards’ saliva. This means that every bite from a Heloderm is venomous! A common mistake spread by a lot of people, is that Gilas and Beadeds must chew on their prey to inject their venom. This is completely false. Every bite from a Heloderm has the full potential for envenomation.

Mind those fingers!

Despite western folklore, the venom of Heloderms is typically not life threatening. However, it is viewed as one of the most painful and agonizing experiences one can endure. Bone quivering pain, coupled with high fever, and uncontrollable vomiting are just a few side effects of the venom.

Envenomations may last hours or even days.

Allergic reactions may be prevalent and blood infections may also arise.

"A common mistake spread by a lot of people, is that Gilas and Beadeds must chew on their prey to inject their venom. This is completely false."

Keeping Heloderma in captivity is not recommended for a beginner reptile keeper.

Venomous reptiles are no laughing matter and should be treated with the utmost respect and caution. All local, state, and federal laws should be upheld when involving venomous and protected animals.

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So with all this talk of venomous bites, how does a keeper “tame” their pet monster? Well, don’t think of it as taming the beast, think of it as reassuring the lizard that its keeper isn’t going to harm them. It all starts with what’s called “Distance Acclimation,” acclimating an animal to a particular scenario, from a safe distance.

Acclimating a Heloderm to human contact should start when the lizard is young. The younger the lizard the better. This doesn’t mean an adult can’t be acclimated. However, it may take twice as long to acclimate or they just may never fully calm down. It all starts with getting the right tools for the job.

Starting the Process The first tool is a common, soft bristle paint brush, with a long handle. The handle must be long enough that if the lizard leaps up to strike, the brush gets bit before your hand does. The goal is to lightly “paint” the lizard’s back with the dry, gentle brush from high up, above the lizard, out of harms’ way. Up and down, side to side. The lizard will hate this! And that’s the goal. To make the lizard accustomed to the sight, smell and sound of human interaction.

When using the brush, never brush the lizards head or limbs. Brushing the head can cause an overwhelming amount of unwanted stress. And brushing the limbs may cause the lizard to accidentally bite itself.

This soft brushing should be done for 5-10 minutes a day max. Any more may be too much stress.

Brushing should also never be done in conjunction with feeding or within a few hours of feeding as the lizard could associate the brush with food.

Eventually (weeks, if not months later) the lizard will no longer react to being brushed and the acclimation process is working.

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Moving From There..

The second tool is a good pair of thick, rubber gardening gloves. Ideally, gloves that may not be punctured by thorns in the garden. These gloves are not to protect the keeper from bites, but rather to mask the heat of the keeper’s hands.

The same process of painting the lizard with the dry, smooth brush, will now be done with a single gloved finger of the keeper’s weak hand. Why the weak hand? Just in case. When the lizard no longer reacts to a single gloved finger, try touching with more gloved fingers. Eventually, the keeper may be able to lift the lizard up, off the substrate, with a gloved hand. This is legitimate progress.

Once the lizard is ok with being physically touched and lifted up with gloved hands, the keeper can now remove the glove that’s not cradling the lizard and begin the “painting” process with an ungloved finger. Regardless of progress made, Heloderms should always be approached and lifted with a gloved hand or with a snake hook under the lizard’s arms.

Now the keeper is exposing the lizard to human body heat for the first time. The lizard may react adversely, twitching, shaking, or even biting, but progress is still being made. Keeping the same routine, time and time again will allow the lizard to learn that humans aren’t going to hurt it.

Eventually, no gloves or brushes will be needed and the lizard will be calm and at ease when handling.

Follow Phil at @knobtails.ig Disclaimer: Nothing written in this magazine is encouraging or convincing the reader to act in any manner or to perform any action, with any venomous species. You as the reader are fully responsible for your actions taken as a result of reading the information provided here.

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This is the future of caging...

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Morelia Spotlight: Nova Guinea Carpet Pythons

By Billy Hunt

One of the founder Nova Guinea animals

NOVA GUINEA CARPET PYTHONS ARE ONE OF THE MOST MYSTERIOUS MORELIA WE HAVE IN THE HOBBY TODAY. NOT MUCH IS KNOWN ABOUT THEIR HISTORY. THEY HAVE BEEN IN THE HOBBY IN EUROPE FOR OVER 25 YEARS. THEN IN 2008, NICK MUTTON IMPORTED A GROUP OF 4.2 ANIMALS FROM PAUL HARRIS. NICK KEPT A GROUP OF 2.1 AND ERIC KOLLER (MIDGARD SERPENTS) ALSO ENDED UP WITH A GROUP OF 2.1. ERIC KOLLER HAS HAD THE MOST SUCCESS WITH THE NOVA GUINEAS IN RECENT YEARS. ODDS ARE IF YOU HAVE ANY OR HAVE SEEN ONE, IT MOST LIKELY CAME FROM ERIC. THE MYSTERY BEHIND WHERE THESE SNAKES COME FROM IS A FRUSTRATING ONE.

THE PEOPLE THAT HAVE THE INFORMATION ARE NO LONGER REACHABLE TO GET THE INFORMATION ON WHERE EXACTLY THESE SNAKES CAME FROM. ALL WE KNOW IS THAT THEY CAME FROM SOMEWHERE IN NEW GUINEA. WHEN THEY WERE EXPORTED, THE BOX CONTAINING THEM WAS LABELED AS “NOVA GUINEA” WHICH IS LATIN FOR NEW GUINEA, THAT IS WHERE THE NAME NOVA GUINEA ORIGINATED FROM. THE PAPERWORK THAT ACCOMPANIED THEM STATED THAT THEY WERE COLLECTED FROM NEW GUINEA BUT NEVER SPECIFIED EXACTLY WHERE IN NEW GUINEA THEY WERE COLLECTED. THAT IS WHERE THE MYSTERY LIES.

SO BESIDES US NOT HAVING DEFINITE INFORMATION ON WHERE NOVA GUINEAS WERE COLLECTED, WHAT MAKES THESE DIFFERENT FROM THE PAPUAN CARPET PYTHONS WE SEE IN THE HOBBY EVERY DAY AND ARE SUPPOSED TO BE THE ONLY CARPET PYTHON NATIVE TO NG? A COUPLE OF NOTICEABLE DIFFERENCES HAVE BEEN NOTED BETWEEN PAPUAN CARPETS AND NOVA GUINEAS. ONE OF THE MOST NOTED DIFFERENCES IS COLORATION AS HATCHLINGS. PAPUAN CARPETS ARE RED WITH BLACK EYES. NOVA GUINEAS ARE A TANNISH/BROWN WITH SILVER EYES. NOVA GUINEAS ALWAYS HAVE A DIFFERENT HEAD STRUCTURE, MORE NARROW SNOUT, AND HAVE UPTURNED ROSTRAL SCALES WHEN COMPARED TO PAPUAN CARPETS WHICH HAVE NONE OF THOSE CHARACTERISTICS. NOVA GUINEAS ALSO SEEM TO THROW THREE DISTINCT PATTERNS WITHIN A CLUTCH. THEY CAN BE STRIPED, REDUCED OR JAG LIKE, OR HAVE AN OCELOT TYPE APPEARANCE. IT HAS ALSO BEEN NOTED THAT NOVA GUINEAS LAY MORE AND SMALLER EGGS THAN PAPUAN CARPETS USUALLY DO. WITH ALL OF THESE DISTINCT DIFFERENCES, ONE CANNOT HELP BUT WONDER WHAT EXACTLY IS GOING ON WITH NOVA GUINEAS. BUT FOR NOW, THEY REMAIN ONE OF THE RAREST CARPETS SEEN IN COLLECTIONS. THEY COULD ALSO VERY WELL BE ONE OF THE RAREST CARPETS ON THE PLANET AND WE JUST DON’T KNOW IT YET.

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H erp R oom Jams Massive Attack was part of the "trip hop" movement in the early to mid 90's but it wasn't until their 1998 release, Mezzanine, that they really took off.

This is probably my favorite album of ALL time. In my opinion this is the quintessential night album. It seems that it is becoming a rarity that an album is good from start to finish and this is one that I hit play and never skip a track.

If you're a fan of Portishead, DJ Shadow, or other electronic-esque music then this is album I cannot recommend enough!

Add a subheading

Returning to Melrose, Florida February, 8 th Mark your calendars and join the SECF 2020 Facebook Group to stay in the loop!

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Next Issue...

- Cottonmouths! - Tokay Geckos

- Herping Israel Pt. 2

- Q & A with Eric Burke!

AND MORE!

Thanks to all our contributors for helping make this issue possible! More importantly thank YOU, the reader!

Please be sure to follow us on Facebook and Instagram (@herpetoculturemagazine) We hope you enjoyed it!Justin & Billy

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