Issue #11 - September 2020

Herpetoculturemagazine.com

erpetoculture agazine Issue #11 -

September 2020

The Hunt for The Walser’s Viper & Herping Italy!

Industry Spotlight: Nick Gordon of the Abronia Alliance

Choosing the Right Tools of the Trade

Flap-Necked Chameleon Care!

Aquatic Oddities: Elephant Trunk snakes NRBE 2020 during COVID

Palmetto Coast

Exotics

Unquestionable Quality Colubrids - Chondros - & More

This Issue...

Cover Photo By Kai Kolodziej

Pg. 4 Flap- Necked Chameleons

Pg. 9 Book Review: Snakes: The Evolution of Mystery in Nature

Pg. 11 Herping Italy & The Walser’s Viper

Pg. 18 Product Review: Pur Max-Ion Filter

Pg. 19

Pg. 24 Morelia Spotlight: Carpondros

Pg. 25

NRBE in a Pandemic

Pg. 27 The Bizarre World of Elephant Trunk Snakes

Pg. 33 Tools of the Trade

Industry Spotlight: Nick Gordon Copyright Š 2020 by Herpetoculture Magazine all rights reserved.

This publication or any portion thereof may not be reproduced or used in any manner whatsoever without the express written permission of the publisher except for the use of brief quotations in a book review.

Eleventh Edition www.herpetoculturemagazine.com

Contributors

Justin Smith - Publisher -

Billy Hunt - Publisher -

Kai Kolodziej - Contributor -

Paul Donovan - Contributor -

Eric Burke - Contributor -

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Phil Wolf - Executive Contributor -

Nick Gordon - Contributor -

Carley Jones - Contributor -

Nipper Read - Executive Contributor -

Tony Doerrer - Contributor -

From The Publishers’ Desk It’s hard to believe this magazine isn’t even a year old yet but has grown SO much in this short amount of time! The one thing that continues to blow my mind is the people across the globe who flip through each issue on a monthly basis. This issue features two new contributors from across the world; Kai Kolodziej of Austria and Paul Donovan of Botswana! Billy and I are continually humbled by the amount of support from everyone, everywhere. This project has gone further in less than a year than we could have ever imagined. With this we have to remind everyone that we can’t thank you enough!

Contributors, Patreon supporters, followers, and readers! With that out of the way, here’s to issue 11 and hopefully many more to come! Enjoy.

Justin Smith & Billy Hunt -Publishers-

Herpetoculture Magazine

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The Flap-Necked Chameleon A Hardy Species

By Paul Donovan

The one reptile here in Botswana, (where I live) that has more senseless myths hanging from its name than any other herp is, believe it or not, the Flap-necked chameleon, Chamaeleo dilepis. I have lived here now for 14 years, and run an educational company lecturing to government departments, the Wildlife Training Institute, schools and colleges on the biology/natural history of reptiles and invertebrates.

For the opening to my talks, I use a couple of chameleons.

I naturally thought (which subsequently turned out to be a blinding error of judgement on my part) using a chameleon to introduce people to reptiles would be a logical choice. Let’s face it, what could be more harmless? How far off the mark was I! I’ve seen adults burst into tears, and flee the room at the thought I would make them touch one. They confessed later that they would rather hold a puff adder than touch one of these heinous little lizards. When you quiz them about their fears, that’s when you begin to think quietly to yourself “are you serious?”

There is the belief that if one looks at you, or if you touch one, it will appear in their dreams and steal your soul to possess you forever. Your skin will also change colour. Because the eyes are continually moving about, apparently their only function is to hypnotize you! As a consequence they are killed on sight. By way of interest, stories regularly making front page news over here include; “woman turns into a snake after being bitten” or “woman gives birth to a snake”. These daft stories make headline news!

The worst thing is people actually believe them because they must be true since they are in the newspaper. They crowd outside the individuals’ houses like flies around a carcass, trying to see these strange manifestations. Trying to educate people from their false beliefs, is a thorny subject. No matter how much you try and rationalize with them, it quickly becomes a clash of parables against science. Anyway back to the real world.

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The Not So Widely Found Many guide books will show the Flap-Necked Chameleon having a wide distribution in Africa. In Botswana, it is found throughout much of the country, perhaps with the exception of the central region. That being said, I have noticed a steady decline in populations over the years which I fear can largely be placed at the door of bush clearance for agriculture, illegally chopping trees down for firewood, and general urban development.

All of this limits the natural pathways of trees which the chameleon uses to travel around. Just about all of the individuals I have encountered have been crossing paved roads. This is an alien environment for them, but they have to cross them to move from tree to tree. Unfortunately, they become easy targets for motorists who take great delight in running them over for pleasure.

Chameleons in general are prehistoric looking lizards whose ancestors can be traced back some 65 million years, to a time when a species called Mimeosaurus prowled the prehistoric trees in search of equally prehistoric insects. As a modern day representative of this bygone era, the Flap-Neck, or Lebodu to give it its Setswana name, may not be the largest of the family at 25 – 30 cm, but it is the only species endemic to Botswana.

The common name comes about due to the two occipital flaps of skin at the rear of the head. A number of subspecies have been described based on the size of these flaps, although the validity of these occipital flaps as a precursor to being assigned as a subspecies is still a grey area.

For such a harmless lizard, it can put up a very convincing display of aggression, which is enough to make most people back off; perhaps this is another reason as to why they are so feared. When confronted by a predator such as a Boomslang, an individual will inflate its body and neck to expose a bright flash of yellow colouration, open its mouth wide and hiss alarmingly. It will then sway from side to side so as to appear more menacing than it really is. It then raises these skin flaps and turns dark in colour. At this point, if you have not backed off, you are subjected to a series of fearful and repeated bites.

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Above: The extendable flaps on the neck, is why this chameleon is so named.

Below: They may be small, but those teeth can give a painful bite!

Chamaeleo dilepis naturally occurs in coastal thickets, woodland, and moist and dry savannah. They reside in low-lying bushes, shrubs and trees, but do not occupy the canopy of tall trees. They seem to prefer trees with rough bark; presumably because it offers better grip.

At night, they spend their time asleep on branches in thick foliage.

As masters of colour change and patterning, it is difficult to describe a ‘normal’ colouration for this species, as they can be anything from lime green, greenish-yellow, through to brown and black; with or without spots and banding in an equally diverse assortment of colours. A crest of small white scales is present running from the throat, along the belly, to the vent.

Good Vision Chameleons have 360-degree vision, and once an individual has fixed on its target, it stalks it with the stealth and grace of a master hunter. As it edges ever closer, it does so with almost imperceptible movements. When within range, it propels its tongue forwards at a speed of 5 metres a second. The tongue is unique amongst reptiles, in that it is actually a fleshy extensor muscle folded in the mouth like an accordion. It is furnished with thousands of microscopic hooks, which aid in holding the prey which is then pulled into the mouth, crunched up a few times and swallowed.

Chamaeleo Care

As these chameleons move through the foliage their eyes are continually surveying their surroundings for food and potential threats. When you stumble across one, they begin to sway as though they were a leaf in the hope you haven’t spotted them. It’s quite an amusing sight to be confronted by and to watch them bridge a gap between two branches becomes even more entertaining. The prehensile tail serves not for balance as in other lizards, but functions more as a fifth ‘leg’. Balance, in their case, is provided by the chameleon’s low centre of gravity and feather-weight body. It is by making subtle movements to the left or right that balance defects are corrected.

Providing you do not try keeping males together, which are extremely intolerant of one another at the best of times, Chamaeleo dilepis is not a demanding species in captivity. I would suggest one male to two females a good ratio to look after.

I watched one individual for twenty minutes attempting to bridge the span between two twigs. It would stick its mitten foot forward and sway repeatedly backwards and forwards trying to grasp the opposing twig. Every time it missed it would have this almost embarrassed look on its face, before it eventually caught it and moved on its merry way.

If there is one thing I have come to realise about this chameleon, it is that they are warmth lovers. Most of those I’ve found crossing the roads, have been during the hottest part of the day, where summer temperatures may exceed 40C (104F). In captivity they should be maintained at between 25C and 31C degrees, with a basking area of 35C. At night, the temperature should drop to 18C to 22C.

To accommodate their arboreal nature, a tall vivarium is preferred. This should be furnished with branches for climbing, and foliage for protective cover. Without sufficient concealment they can become stressed. Any branches should not be wider than the chameleons grip otherwise they will have difficulty climbing. Pencil thickness is ideal. And the rougher the better.

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Because I keep my chameleons outdoors in a wired enclosure, during the winter months they can endure temperatures a few degrees off of freezing. I would not advocate you subject them to such temperatures in captivity, but it does show just how hardy they are. They do not undergo any period of hibernation or aestivation, and can be seen active on sunny winter days.

Provide a relative humidity of 50 to 60 percent; this can be achieved by spraying the cage each day. Not only does this serve to maintain humidity, but also provides the chameleon with drinking water – they will not drink from a bowl. That being said, they can endure long periods without water.

I suspect these chameleons get much of their moisture requirements from their prey. In the northern parts of their distribution it is more wet and humid than in the south.

Certainly where I live in the south ( where for much of the year the bush is dry and desolate) they have to endure extremely harsh conditions – low winter temperatures, high summer temperatures, and very little in the way of rainfall. Providing you do not live in a state which receives very harsh winters, I would suggest you keep them outdoors in a suitable setup.

One of the most important aspects of their husbandry, is to provide good ventilation and airflow through the vivarium. In my experience, they are susceptible to respiratory infections if kept in damp, ‘stale’ conditions.

In Botswana, during the winter they have a photoperiod of 11 hours of light, and 13 hours of darkness. During the summer 15 hours of light and 9 hours of darkness.

Illumination should come from full-spectrum lighting.

Diet Just about any insect will be taken. Mine relish cockroaches which I collect from the garden when other feeder insects are not available. I don’t use any vitamin/mineral supplement because they are fed ‘wild’ insects. But in captivity, prey should be either gut-loaded or sprinkled with a quality vitamin/ mineral to avoid soft jaw and other ailments from developing.

Breeding Flap-Necks Males can be identified by the swelling at the base of the tail, and become extremely intolerant of one another. When a female has been found, little preliminary courtship takes place.

Following the couple of minutes it takes for them to mate, the sexes separate and go their own way. In captivity it is worth separating the sexes for a week, or two prior to reintroducing, as this may stimulate a non-breeding couple to get on and do what they should be doing. A drop in temperature of a few degrees may also be beneficial to bring them into breeding condition, but hibernation is not a prerequisite to mating.

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Top: I rescued this gravid female crossing the road. Chameleons are disliked in Botswana and she would have been run over.

Middle: Juvenile Flap-Necks are comparatively hardier to keep than many other species.

Bottom: If climate allows, keep these chameleons in an outdoor enclosure

Females typically lay between 20 and 40 eggs in the damp soil at the base of a tree. In captivity, a good substitute is a container of damp sand/peat mix or vermiculite. This should be approximately 7cm. It is quite unmistakable if the female is pregnant, as the eggs can be seen bulging from the abdomen.

Incubate the eggs at 27C, and be prepared for a very long wait. Average incubation times extend up to 9 months. During this period it is imperative that you discard any which turn grey or develop mold/fungus.

Paul Donovan is a biologist living in Botswana where he runs a wildlife education company. Follow him on Instagram: @wildlifeincloseup and on Youtube: wildlifeinclose-up

Hatchlings are pretty hardy compared to other chameleon species, though one should always be aware that the biggest killer is dehydration. I mist each individual separately until it stops drinking. Feed a varied diet sprinkled with a quality vitamin/mineral supplement. Individuals appearing stressed should be removed and reared on their own.

The Flap-Neck Chameleon is a wonderful hardy species to look after, and if you are in the market for a chameleon, you won’t go wrong with one of these. I hate to use this phrase, but it really is a good beginners species to nudge your way into keeping some of the more delicate species.

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@sj_reptile Herpetoculture Magazine 8

: w e i v e R k o o n o B i t p lu er

H

o v E y b e h e r T : u t s e a k N Sna stery in e y n M e f e o r G .

W y r r s a H y Jo ne rle a C y wB e i v e R

Some of my favorite books are ones that make me think, “Wow do I love this book... But it sure does make me feel dumb.” Harry W. Greene’s two titles I have read have been the perfect balance of entertainment and education. I actually was only thirty or so pages in before I realized the author of Tracks and Shadows and Snakes were one in the same. It was a pleasant surprise and I was even more excited to devour the literature in front of me.

Snakes is scientific but written in a way that average joes, like myself, can enjoy it. The back describes it as “Scholarly but accessible to the amateur.” Excellent! Eight chapters devoted to general snake topics and each chapter begins with a personal essay about the subject from Greene’s point of view. This book is beautifully descriptive and just long enough. It’s not like one of my other favorite authors, Tolkien, where he can and has described a simple valley for three chapters. I exaggerate for humor, but only to get my point across.

I smiled to myself as I read a description of bushmasters being compared to Clint Eastwood in High Plains Drifter. “Don’t come closer...” After that I was quickly reminded that as much as this book is casual it is also very scientific as I dove into taxonomy. One’s head will start to spin right around when the intelligent and well-wrote author writes about Anomalepididae, Leptotyphlopidae and Typhlopidae. But you press on because even though you don’t completely grasp what you’ve just read you still cannot put this book down to save your life.

The pictures are absolutely incredible. They were provided by Michael and Patricia Fogden and were the piece de resistance on top of an already beautiful read. I hope I’ve gotten across how much I love this book. I plan on rereading it and taking bullet notes as I go. If you’re like me (someone who doesn’t have a strong schooling background but still wants to be present in the hobby side and academic side of herps) you should give this book a go. You will find yourself using google often to look up words like pterygoid and palatine bones, but it was enjoyable work and such a fun challenge. I’m starting to think Greene’s books are bewitched because of how hard and fast I fell in love with his titles.

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Pick your poison...

Available anywhere podcasts are found

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Herping in Italy & The Hunt for The Walser’s Viper With Kai Kolodziej

During ten days in April 2017, I decided to visit north-western Italy with my girlfriend and some other herp-loving friends. Together we wanted to see as many reptiles and amphibians as possible and hopefully get some cool shots of them.

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Apart from cultural features, Italy is famous for excellent pizza and pasta. Food aside, you can find some pretty cool species and, in fact, some of them have just recently been described. In this article I want to highlight some of the rare species of this area and some which were of scientific interest in the recent years.

In Liguria, we found the European Leaf-Toed Gecko (Euleptes europaea) which occurs mainly in Sardinia, but also in some very small locations in mainland Italy. This is the smallest reptile species of Europe with a length of about 6 cm (2.36 in). Like many geckos it can change its colour and normally shows a darker colouration during the day and a brighter one at night. There are also more widespread gecko species in Italy, like the Mediterranean House Gecko (Hemidactylus turcicus) or the Mediterranean Wall Gecko (Tarentola mauritanica). Both species are often seen on human structures and use artificial lights as a hunting ground, as these attract various moths. The Mediterranean Wall Gecko is the largest gecko species of Europe with a length of about 16 cm (6.3 in). European gecko species are best distinguished based on their toes, as each species looks different.

Above: The toes of the European leaf-toed gecko (Euleptes europaea) Below: europaea in its bright night coloration

Recently, scientists found out that the Italian Tree Frog (Hyla intermedia) was in fact two species and described the “new” species, which occurs in north-western Italy as the Northern Italian Tree Frog (Hyla perrini). The main differences are genetic, and there is no visual or acoustic difference in these two species. The only exception is in the overlap zone in the region of the river Po, otherwise a distinction is impossible. Both are around 4 cm (1.57 in) long and show a wonderful green colour. They are famous for their immensely loud calls, which can get around 87db loud which is nearly as loud as a truck or a jackhammer.

These frogs aren’t the only amphibians of this region that are regularly in scientific focus, I am also talking about the cave salamanders of the genus Speleomantes. Like the European Leaf-Toed Gecko, this genus is much more common in Sardinia than in mainland Europe, where only three species occur.

Their common name, cave salamander, is a bit misleading as these salamanders are regularly encountered in caves, but not exclusively. However, caves provide them a secure and moist hiding place, especially during the hot summer months.

An interesting fact about these salamanders is that they have no lungs, and breathe through their skin and mouth, which requires a moist surrounding. Although cave salamanders have been a topic of several recent publications little is known about their biology. In 2014, scientists found out that the Italian Cave Salamander (Speleomantes italicus) shows maternal care for their eggs, which are placed on stones near creeks and not in water like most other salamanders.

Above: The Mediterranean house gecko (Hemidactylus turcicus) is a common sight, and often seen hunting near artificial lights.

Below: The Italian cave salamander (Speleomantes italicus)

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The females guard their eggs for around 9 months and even their skin secretions protect their eggs against fungi. With just 11 to 12 cm (4.33 - 4.72 in) in length, these salamanders aren’t large individuals. Especially compared to the fire salamanders, which are around 18 cm (7.09 in) in length, getting much larger. Regardless, they are a unique part of the European herps.

While Euleptes europaea and all three species of Speleomantes are very restricted in their range often just occurring in limited spots, there is a wide range of reptiles and amphibians that are quite common and even the normal tourist of this region has a good chance of seeing them. In particular, the two Podarcis species, the Italian Wall Lizard (Podarcis siculus campestris) and the Common Wall Lizard (Podarcis muralis).

These two Wall Lizards occur even in some cities, typically on old walls or in overgrown gardens. While Podarcis siculus is a Mediterranean species and occurs more in the sunny areas, the Common Wall Lizard (P. muralis) is restricted to shady areas like the forests. Both species get around 20 cm (7.87 in) long, but the Italian wall lizard is slightly larger with a steadier build and more color. The largest lizard of Tuscany is the Green Lizard (Lacerta bilineata) which attains sizes of around 40 cm (15.75 in). During mating season, the males of Lacerta bilineata show a beautiful blue throat.

Below & right: Italian wall lizard (Podarcis siculus campestris) are common and often found near human settlements.

Another abundant amphibian is the green frogs of the genus Pelophylax which inhabit nearly every large body of water and in many places of Italy the green toad (Bufotes viridis), (arguably the most beautiful of all European toad species) is a common sight. We found them even at our hotel, as they tried to mate in the pool, which wasn’t in operation in April.

Regarding native snakes, the most common species are the Green Whip Snake (Hierophis viridiflavus) and the Grass Snake (Natrix natrix). Both are active day foragers, with H. viridiflavus mainly preying on lizards and rodents while the Grass Snake

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eats mainly amphibians and fish. As a consequence, the Grass Snake occurs near water and has a preference for ponds and slow-moving rivers. The Green Whip Snake is mainly occurring in the Maquis bushland, which is a typical Mediterranean habitat which consists mainly of evergreen bushes and small trees. As it is very thick, the reptiles need open areas to bask; these areas are often human made structures like hiking paths. Often in clearings, the Mediterranean Tortoise is present in good numbers. These tortoises get around 30 cm (11.8 in) long and are most often heard before they are seen as they make a lot of noise while wandering through scrub land.

Although not as common as the grass snake or the whip snake, the asp viper (Vipera aspis francisciredi), it can be found in the Maquis habitats and the fear of the population is quite high in some spots. The venom of the asp viper has neurotoxic and hemorrhagic components, as with every bite of a venomous species it is recommended to visit a hospital but death due to viper bites is a rare occurrence in Europe. The asp viper isn’t a highly venomous species and due to its small size with about 80cm, the venom yield is fairly low. Together with the Aesculapian snake (Zamenis longissimus) and the Four-Lined Snake (Elaphe quatuorlineata) it is one of the main predators of rodents in the area. Both species are used in a traditional ceremony in the village of Cucullo in May, when a statue of the holy Dominikus is carried through the city.

In the far North Western region of Italy, there are some species that occur which have their main distribution in France or the Iberian Peninsula like Ocellated Lizards (Timon lepidus), Western Montpellier Snakes (Malpolon monspessulanus) or Viperine Snakes (Natrix maura). Viperine snakes are often killed as people

The four-lined snake (Elaphe quatuorlineata) is one of the biggest serpents in Europe. believe they are venomous vipers. In Europe all reptiles are under protection and collection or killing of reptiles is illegal.

The non-venomous small (about 70cm) Viperine snakes are fish eaters and occur along freshwater streams and can often be observed swimming or waiting submerged for bypassing fish.

Another highlight genus of this region are the salamanders of Salamandrina. These animals are the only endemic vertebrae of Italy and therefore the symbol of the Unione Zoologica Italia. In contrast to Speleomantes, the genus Salamandrina is a very old and fundamental genus of salamander. In contrast to most other salamanders, they only have four toes and for a long-time scientist believed that just one species of Salamandrina survived the ice age. Fossil remains eventually proved a much bigger distribution in the past.

Finally, in 2005 genetic evidences provided proof that Italy houses not only one species of these magnificent salamanders but two. The northern lineage, named the Northern Spectacled Salamander (Salamandrina perspicillata) was described as its own species. These slender and small salamanders get around 8 cm (3.15 in) long and are mostly black, showing many tubercles. Their ventral side is beautifully coloured in red and white, with a few black dots. This intense colouration is shown to potential predators with the unken reflex, meaning they bend their tail over their body to present their striking colouration.

It wasn’t just new amphibian species described in Italy. In 2016 a new viper was described in the region of Piedmont, which is also in northwestern Italy. A new venomous snake species in middle Europe was a very exciting discovery, as hardly anyone thought that this would happen. In fact this population of vipers wasn’t totally new to science but was believed to be a relict population of the common adder (Vipera berus).

Genetic analysis showed that these vipers were in fact completely different to Vipera berus and so scientists described them as Vipera walser, the Walser Viper. Moreover, it was revealed that they are more closely related to Caucasian vipers like Vipera kaznakovi or Vipera dinniki, and even the Meadow Viper (Vipera ursinii) is more closely related to the Walser viper (Vipera walser) than the Common Adder (Vipera berus). But morphologically the Walser Viper looks exactly like the Common Adder. Even their scalation is nearly identical. Scientists are calling it a cryptic species.

The habitat of this species is at an elevation of about 1600m (5,200 ft) above sea level. As it was still very early in the year, we weren’t sure if the snow had already disappeared completely.

Luckily, apart from some shady areas, there was no snow, it was a bit cold and the grass was still flat. The habitat is typical montane grassland with small bushes of creeping pine. The first reptile we encountered was a Smooth Snake (Coronella austriaca), which is the most abundant snake in this habitat.

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The Piemont viper (Vipera walser) in its habitat

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The Piemont viper (Vipera walser) is a newly described species of snake in Europe

Together with the smooth snake and the Walser’s Viper, the Asp Viper (Vipera aspis atra) shares this habitat.

Regarding lizards. we saw viviparous lizards including Slow Worms (Anguis fragilis). Due to the cold wind we only spotted one Walser’s Viper, a juvenile, which had a full belly, likely a recent meal of a lizard. The phylogeny of the Walser’s Viper leads scientists to many questions. Until recently, it was believed that vipers colonized Europe in two waves coming from the east. However, with Vipera walser, being more closely related to Caucasian vipers, there may have been a third colonization wave of vipers.

Future studies will tell us how this interesting part of biogeography will turn out. The habitat of Vipera walser is very limited with just about 500km², as a consequence the protection and conservation of this species is very important and the local authorities are working together with the locals to preserve this beautiful species.

Above: The slow worms of the genus Anguis, are legless lizards, which often get misidentified as snakes. This picture shows the Italian slow worm (Anguis veronensis) Below: Northern Spectacled Salamander (Salamandrina perspicillata) are endemic to Italy.

The northwest region of Italy is a wonderful and diverse landscape. It offers various opportunities for herpetological interested visitors, no matter if they are just normal tourists who like to spot a lizard or gecko while visiting cultural sites, or the ambitious field herpers, who want to see the rare herps of this region.

See more pictures from the trip on the next page.

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Asp vipers (Vipera aspis francisciredi) are often found in small bushes and can deliver a venomous bite.

Invasive pond sliders (Trachemys scripta) are sadly often seen in European rivers.

Western three-toed skinks (Chalcides striatus) are found sliding through grassy areas.

Habitat of Speleomantes ssp.

A unusual reddish coloured smooth snake (Coronella austriaca).

Ambrosi’s cave salamander (Speleomantes ambrosii).

The green toad (Bufotes viridis) was even found in our hotel garden.

The green whip snake (Hierophis viridiflavus) is one of the most common snakes of the area.

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Product Review By Justin Smith

Pur Max-ion 30-Cup Water Filter After several years of using the same, small, 6-cup Brita pitcher for water changes in my room, I decided it was time for something bigger. The original pitcher only filtered enough water for me to fill about 3 bowls for my smaller animals and I was tired of having to make 10 trips to the kitchen to refill it. In a previous trip to Wal-Mart I noticed that they had some bigger filter systems for sale. Well it was finally time to upgrade and now I found myself looking at the options on the shelves, settling on the Pur Max Ion 30-cup filter.

I should preface this by saying that the original 6-cup filter pitcher I had used for a couple years prior never gave me any issues! I used the water from that for chondros, dart frogs, tadpoles, and all my other snakes. At no point did I have any health issues from using the filtered tap water from the pitcher. City water and/or well water may vary in quality due to a long list of reasons. Since I wasn’t sure exactly how “clean” my city was I opted to try out the pitcher filter.

One of the main reasons I really like this filter (aside from the 30 cup capacity) is that it’s big enough to hold plenty of water but small enough to not take up a ton of space. Mine is currently nestled next to my green tree python rack at the ready for water changes. The overall dimensions on this model in particular are 10.38” x 15.38” x 5.75”. The slim profile makes it easy to find a space for it in a room since it is long, kinda tall, and relatively thin. Being big but not too big also means that this filter isn’t heavy even when full. In the event that you forget to take the lid with you when filling, this model has a fixed divider that helps break up “waves” and prevent splashing or sloshing. The water dispenses via a little nozzle that you simply pull forward, a nice little touch.

The entire unit can be bought at WalMart, Target, most home improvement stores, or online for around $26. Filters are very simple to replace but a box of three will set you back around $16. According to the paperwork that comes with the Maxion, a single filter should last between 2 and 3 months so $16 for between 6 to 9 months worth of filtration, I think it’s a low cost option. Overall for the low cost of a lot of these units, the longevity of the filters, and the benefit of not having to buy gallons of water regularly, I highly recommend looking into either the maxion model or even one of the smaller ones if you think the 30-cup is overkill.

Herpetoculture Magazine

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Industry Spotlight Nick Gordon of the

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HM: What made you start the Abronia Alliance?

NG: Abronia Alliance was started after myself and Forrest

Fanning (known most popularly in the herp community by his Instagram handle @Zoodreams) saw that there was an absence of any real large-scale program that was working with Abronia either in captivity or in the wild. This was quite concerning considering there was a fair bit of research claiming that most species of the genus were either threatened, endangered or possibly already extinct. This was an extremely hard reality to accept as some conservationists and researchers predicted a majority of the genus could be lost forever in the next 20 years if something doesn’t change. That is not to say that no one has tried, as a few zoos and private organizations over the years have attempted to make a difference in the future of Abronia, but most have just been too small to really make an impact or slowly fizzled due to lack of time and resources.

This was our call to action. As two individuals who had a love and passion for the genus and wanted to see them not only survive but thrive in the future, we decided something had to be done. This was our chance to potentially have an impact on the future of Abronia both in captivity and in the wild. With that the Abronia Alliance was born.

HM: What is the mission of the Alliance and what is the biggest threat to wild populations?

NG: The mission is simple: “Protect and Preserve Abronia”.

While that is a great overarching concept and slogan that fits nicely on our logo, the idea and mission of the Abronia Alliance is also much deeper. The mission began with acknowledging the problem. Abronia are habitat specialists that live at high elevations within old-growth oak and pine cloud forests. These forests are extremely special in the fact that they are quite wet, fairly cool and often home to a range of uniquely adapted fauna and flora. Abronia can be found in these forests throughout Mexico, Guatemala and Honduras, however in these countries, the forests are being cleared at an alarming rate for logging, agriculture and urban sprawl.

Threats to Abronia in the wild don’t stop there; misconceptions of being venomous, cultural beliefs of bringing bad luck and illegal collection for the pet trade also contribute to their decline, however habitat loss is the number one threat to wild Abronia populations.

Understanding this was what we were fighting against, Forrest and I turned to some people who had seen some of the threats to Abronia first hand. One of those individuals was Dr. Jonathan A. Campbell. This name may sound familiar, as Dr. Campbell is one of the foremost experts on Abronia. He has described multiple species, published various papers on Abronia and even has an Abronia species named after him; Campbell’s Arboreal Alligator

Lizard (Abronia campbelli). When meeting with him, one of the most important things he told us was Abronia could not be saved by any one person and that it would take a significant number of dedicated people to change the fate of Abronia.

This is when the idea of the Abronia Alliance becoming a network and community to save these species really began.

From Left to Right: Nick, Dr. Campbell, Dr. Franklin, Forrest Fanning at University of Texas at Arlington With my background in the professional zoological field and Forrest’s connection to the herp community’s private sector, we formulated the idea of a network that could rally individuals from the private, professional, and academic sectors of herpetology to make something that could function like an SSP (Species Survival Plan) in the private sector.

For those that do not know what an SSP is; they are programs set up by the AZA (Association of Zoo and Aquariums) to oversee the population management of select species within certified institutions and to enhance conservation of the species in the wild. This is exactly what we wanted; a group of dedicated Abronia keepers and conservation partners in which we could set up captive assurance populations with good genetic sustainability, learn more about consistently reproducing various species, and providing resources to build and maintain reserves to protect them in their natural habitat.

“Abronia could not be saved by any one person and that it would take a significant number of dedicated people to change the fate of Abronia. This is when the idea of the Abronia Alliance becoming a network and community to save these species really began.”

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While a lot of our current mission revolves around building a responsible and sustainable captive assurance population for these species, our ultimate goal is to be able to get down to Mexico and Guatemala and really build a relationship with the local people there so we can all together help save Abronia. We can want to save these species until we are blue in the face but until we are able to help the local people that live with these animals everyday see what we see in them, their future remains bleak. If we can gain local support, there are many things we can do such as restoring habitat in areas that may have been logged, employing locals to protect existing reserves, building up eco-tourism that can help the local economy and even starting programs to help educate kids about the role Abronia play within their unique ecosystem.

HM: Have you always had a specific interest in the Abronia genus?

NG: I have not, it was more of a passion that fell into my lap much later in life. As a young kid I had an innate love for animals (especially for big cats) however as I grew up, I quickly realized most people already loved big cats and there was another group of animals that I was fascinated by that were much less accepted and understood by the public, that group of animals of course were reptiles. At that point my focus really transitioned solely to my passion for reptiles and amphibians especially lizards and snakes.

In the beginning, I didn’t have any real knowledge of Abronia as they were quite rare in the wild and even more rare in captivity.

However, as a few species of Abronia started to come into the states by both legal and illegal avenues, I recall starting to see pictures of these amazing little green and blue lizards that looked like miniature dragons. These were the iconic Mexican Arboreal Alligator Lizard (Abronia graminea), easily the most well-known of all the Abronia species. Again, while these species were quite fascinating, it wasn’t until I was building up my reptile collection post college that my dad actually started sending me all of these pictures and posts of people selling Abronia graminea and telling me that I should really start working with them. This was where everything changed.

After researching everything I could find about Abronia (which was quite limited) I found that the entire genus was not very well studied nor were they regularly reproduced in captivity. This, along with all of the other reasons people fall in love with Abronia, really made me dive in head first. I started searching for my first animals, purchased a beautiful pair of A. graminea, and I was hooked.

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HM: There doesn’t seem to be too many people in the hobby that are as focused on captive bred Abronia, what do you think is the particular reason why?

NG: You are correct in the fact that there are a very small

number of people within the U.S. and Europe really working with even moderate sized collections of captive bred Abronia (we are talking maybe around 20 or so) however that number seems to be steadily increasing. In my opinion, it comes down to two reasons; price and availability. Captive bred Abronia are not insanely priced but they are often higher priced than their wild caught counterparts and usually less frequently available. Even more so than the monetary aspect, availability has been another big factor. In my opinion, we haven’t really figured out how to consistently reproduce them yet and therefore there are just not that many available.

As I mentioned earlier, these lizards come from a very specific habitat type that can be difficult to recreate in a manner that allows for reproductive success. There are a handful of people out there that have done this well. Some of which have success consecutive years and even produce multiple litters within a single year, however this is often far and few between. This has led to a very slow growing interest in working with the genus in a large capacity.

A newly born CBB Abronia graminea produced by the Abronia Alliance.

An adult breeder rack at one of the Abronia Alliance facilities.

HM: Do you think Abronia are on the right trajectory for more CBB animals and less field collected ones?

NG: I do think as a whole we are on the right path, but we are

far from there yet. It is unfortunate, but the story of Abronia is far too similar to many other reptilian species’ history of captive establishment. For a long time, most Abronia were brought into the private trade by illegal avenues (i.e. smuggling). Animals would often be collected just before the “birthing season” and sent to their foreign destinations. Once settled into their new homes, they would often birth a litter of live young. This still happens to this day, especially with Abronia graminea.

However, while many of those babies and adults from generations ago did perish, some survived and went on to find their way into capable hands. While we do not condone this as the right way to establish species outside of their native range, it does happen and is how a lot of the original animals fostered what is here today. With that said, Abronia Alliance is dedicated to building a network of individuals producing CBB animals in hopes that one day we can produce enough animals so that anyone that wants to keep Abronia can easily find a CBB animal and that there will be no further market for field collected individuals.

HM: If someone wants to get into Abronia but wants to start with CBB animals who is the person the talk to currently?

NG: There isn’t really one specific person that is the “Go To”

person for CBB Abronia, which goes back to there aren’t many people consistently producing and even more so selling baby Abronia each and every year. With that being said, there are a fair number of CBB baby Abronia produced almost every year, but they are often coming from different people within the Abronia network. I would direct people to that network instead of one particular person. Some of these avenues that can be explored are Facebook groups such as “Abronia”, “Abronia Lizards” and “Abronia spp’s” which are public groups that are all about Abronia (another great resource for husbandry tips and reproduction info). Now we all know you aren’t really supposed to sell animals on Facebook anymore, but a lot of people will post when they produce litters or have extra animals “up for discussion”.

Often if you personal message people with babies you can get on an interested or waiting list for when the babies are big enough to sell/ship. While this group can be a great resource, there is also no guarantee that everyone is producing truly CBB babies on there and some level of common sense should be used to determine if the animals are actually CBB. Most people are pretty good but there are still people out there that will try to pawn off non CBB animals as so. If you are ever wanting a second opinion on animals or a seller of Abronia, you can get

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ahold of Abronia Alliance on any of our platforms and we will be happy to steer you in the right direction. We don’t know everyone but AA as a group knows a lot of the good people that are on the up and up and part of our mission is to help people acquire truly CBB animals and not any that are wild collected.

The preserved holotype Abronia frosti (UTA R-41131) at University Texas of Arlington that was used to describe the species.

HM: Out of all the species in the genus, which is your favorite?

NG: I would have to say my favorite species to work with currently has to be Bocourt’s Arboreal Alligator Lizard (Abronia vasconcelosii). They are a moderate sized species of the genus that is predominantly green or bluish with splashes of yellows, oranges and/or reds on their face and head. They are native to western Guatemala at elevations of 2,000 to 2,200 meters (Köhler 2003, Wilson and Johnson 2010) and have the largest range of all Guatemalan Abronia species.

With incredible colors and feisty attitudes, it is extremely easy to fall in love with this species after working with them.

Now, if we are talking about my favorite out of all of the known species, it has to be Frost’s Arboreal Alligator Lizard (Abronia frosti). There is just something about the way the gold and white contrast with the black in their pattern that makes them look extremely regal. Not to mention the fact that they were basically lost to science for over a decade until they were re-discovered in October 2010.

HM: Are there a lot of Abronia species that aren’t in the hobby?

NG: Out of the 29 species that comprise the genus Abronia, more

A 2019 captive bred Abronia vasconcelosii produced by Abronia Alliance.

than half of them are not known to be in captivity whatsoever with a good chunk of those species only being described from even a few individuals known to exist. Of the 12-13 species that have been known to be in captivity currently or were at one point, only about three of those species (A. graminea, A. taeniata, A. lythrochila) are considered somewhat common in the private sector.

An adult captive bred Abronia aurita.

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Morelia Spotlight:

The Carpondro & Jagpondro

When I first entered the world of carpet pythons in 2006, there were only a handful of resources about them one could find on the internet.

Australian Addiction Reptiles site, Anthony Caponetto’s site, and Will Bird’s site. Will Bird had an article on his website called “Propagating Carpet Pythons’’. I printed this article out numerous times and at one point could probably recite it. It was the “book” before the Complete Carpet Python came out. It is still full of valuable information to this day. I bring up Will’s article because at the end of it, there is a picture of an incredible adult carpondro that he casually inserted into the piece. This was the first carpondro I had ever seen a picture of. Now at the time, it wasn’t something that I thought was even close to being a possibility for me.

I was fortunate enough to produce a clutch of jagpondros and carpondros in 2018. I bred a male coastal carpet (Max) to a female green tree python (Medusa). Historically, these crosses have been done with female carpets and male green trees. I had no issues with my pairing but it is also a sample size of one clutch so take that into consideration. Incubation was no different from carpet python eggs and I hatched out 13 live babies out of 14 eggs. Nine jagpondros and 4 carpondros. This was a very exciting time for me, personally, because as I looked at this clutch of babies, I thought back to that picture I saw in Will’s article. It was surreal to say the least.

By Billy Hunt

Dam // Medusa

Sire // Max

First generation jagpondros and carpondros will be 50% gtp and 50% carpet python. I refer to mine as 50/50s. I have noticed that there is a mix of animals that act like carpets and some that act like gtps in this clutch of mine. They do seem to enjoy lower temps like gtps and can handle bigger meals like carpets. They also seem to have the carpet temperament as neos as opposed to the snappier demeanor of gtp neos.

There is speculation that male hybrid carpondros and jagpondros are sterile. There are many opinions on the subject, but there honestly hasn’t been enough breeding trials to know for sure. I have heard of 50/50 males siring clutches. I have also heard that there could maybe be an issue with their hemipene structure in relation to the females that are breeding.

I’ve even heard it could be more of a compatibility issue between the two animals paired. More needs to be done before any concrete evidence is put out there on the subject. It is an exciting time in Herpetoculture. As we start to understand the husbandry and breeding habits of more species, the more successful projects like carpondros have the potential to be.

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The Show Goes On!

NRBE 2020 in the Pandemic T

he weekend couldn’t get here soon enough. After months of waiting, counting down the days, the weekend of NRBE 2020 was here and I couldn’t get on the road fast enough. With the current pandemic having the world thrown into chaos, myself (and I’m sure damn near everyone else) wasn’t sure what to expect with the show going on. The comments section on the NRBE facebook page was on fire with outrage and excitement.

How would one of the largest shows in the country be able to go on with that many attendees, vendors, and masks?

Well COVID be damned I packed for the weekend with plenty of clothes and cigars on hand. Thursday morning I drove down to Melrose, Florida to crash for the night at the Reptile Preservation Institute owned and operated by Pia and Cody Bartolini. As usual their collection and caging were incredible; if you ever get the chance to check out their place I HIGHLY recommend it as their facility gives pretty much any zoo reptile house a run for its money. I spent most of Thursday

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By Justin Smith

hanging out, burning a few cigars and relaxing. Thursday night I was a spectator while Cody and an RPI intern (as well as friend) Giovanni Fuentes, cleaned and fed various species of Lanceheads, Mambas, and Cobras. I’ve seen Cody work with the mambas at the RPI in the past but it was the adults. This time Gio was working with the younger animals which made things much more interesting. After watching Gio do “the dance” with these younger animals you learn that mambas don’t move. They float.

I ended Thursday with a late night and started Friday with an early morning. Camping in your car, in Florida, in August, is great if you like sleeping hot (which I don’t) but hey it’s Daytona weekend.

The show goes on! I spent the first half of Friday snapping some pictures of the RPI collection and then hit the road to Daytona.

I arrived at the hotel a few hours early of check-in so I found my gang (Billy Hunt, Casey Cannon, Dominique DiFalco, and Carley Jones) and just killed time until.

I arrived at the hotel a few hours early of check-in so I found my gang (Billy Hunt, Casey Cannon, Dominique DiFalco, and

Carley Jones) and just killed time until I could get in my room. If there was one thing I learned about Daytona last year, it’s that the social side of hanging out with friends and meeting the faces we see on Facebook is really the most enjoyable part of the entire weekend. I can confidently say that after this years’ show, that is still very much the case.

Saturday morning comes quick. Day one of the show. Since I was helping the awesome guys at ReptileExpress with some live stream things they wanted to do, I was able to get a vendor badge to get in, set up, then make my rounds to get a sneak peek at what was for sale and also catch up with some folks. Virus or no virus, there was definitely no shortage of vendors in the building. Just as many tables filled the Ocean Center as they did the year before.

One of the vendors I was fortunate to meet for the first time was Jennifer and Clint Martin with Jennifers’ brother Kevin at the BlackBox Reptile Cages Table. They’ve been a partner with the magazine for a few issues now. Without a bias I have to say, I’ve checked out a lot of cages and racks but I can say, without a doubt, that their racks have the smoothest action with the tubs that I’ve ever come across. They are definitely a caging company that you should be paying attention to!

One thing that surprised me was how compliant everyone was with masks. I didn’t see anyone in the venue without a mask on, which is pretty impressive given the amount of people in the building. Given the amount of push back Wayne Hill and the NRBE staff got about the show going on as planned, I wasn’t sure how well things would go over in the venue on both days of the show. I think the excitement of the show happening was enough motivation for the vendors and attendees to do whatever they needed to for a weekend of normalcy.

All in all it was a great weekend. I quickly learned last year (my first time attending), that while the NRBE show is great, it’s getting to hang out with your best friends, catch up with old ones, and bring new ones into the fold that makes the weekend my favorite of the year. If you clear your calendar for anything herp related in a given year, NRBE Daytona should be it.

Species diversity wise, there wasn’t much that really wowed me. Being a huge Baird’s Rat Snake nerd I was very excited to see a lot available at the show since they aren’t something you see at shows in large numbers. One thing I noticed this year and last year was the amount of corn snakes for sale. I think it is actually safe to say that there were more corns than balls this year! Maybe it’s a sign of changing times and a shift in the industry? You be the judge. Regardless, it was a decent show even if the selection was fairly run of the mill.

Herpetoculture Magazine

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Creatures From the Black Lagoon // The bizarre Elephant Trunk Snakes

By Tony Doerrer Acrochordus javanicus, more commonly known as the Elephant Trunk Snake or the File Snake, is a fully aquatic, non-venomous species. Acrochordus javanicus are often imported from Indonesia. Roughly six inches at birth, they have the potential to reach an average adult size of five to eight feet. With scales that have a similar texture to a metal file to its uniquely long tongue, these snakes are impressive creatures. Found in brackish waters, their aquatic nature requires the typical keeper to take a different approach to care.

These amazing and often misunderstood creatures have fascinated us for years. However, a deep dive into the scientific literature left us with little information on how to properly care for them. So, like all tasks worth doing, we had to start from scratch and that required a return to basics. Starting with the general care sheet criteria, we began to build the ideal aquatic environment based on first-hand observations.

However, this proved to be difficult as building a self-contained ecosystem that would allow Acrochordus javanicus to thrive presented some obstacles not common for other reptiles.

The first obstacle was understanding an aquarium. As a reptile that is predominantly water-based, they spend so little time on land that their bodies cannot support their weight out of water for very long. This meant getting the details of the proper environment was key. Although setups may vary, we have found that the stability of water temperature is the most important environmental factor to consider. Depending on set up size, the standard aquarium heaters can easily accommodate the water temperatures needed. With published records recommending

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water temperatures between 84-86 degrees Fahrenheit, we have currently settled on a water temperature between 82-83 degrees Fahrenheit to account for the summer heat’s impact on the aquarium. In our experience, the higher temperatures did not provide enough of a buffer for the summer’s natural ambient temperature spikes. By dropping the desired maintained temperatures, we have observed adults and juveniles alike thriving.

The next factor we had to consider in caring for Acrochordus javanicus was water quality. There seems to be some debate in the literature as to what pH balance is best, but one thing that the available care sheets agree on is that this should be a priority.

Certain articles emphasize the necessity of maintaining a pH level of 5 as well as the requirement for introducing tannins. With our local water pH levels at 7, we were constantly struggling to reach a pH level of 5, let alone maintaining that level long term.

Eventually we stopped checking the levels and determined the low requirement might not be as critical as emphasized. While this is a controversial stance, rest assured that the health of these snakes is our top priority. Today, we do not track pH levels, but we do continue to include and add tannins in our setups. We utilize various aquatic woods and leaves to introduce tannins. We

removed the carbon sponge pads from all filtration to prevent polishing the water. We have used various over-the-counter aquarium additives to maintain target pH levels and tannins with success. Aside from the aesthetic appearance of the water coloration and decaying natural materials, the tannins leaching out help to combat bacteria growth in the aquatic environment.

When setting up the enclosure, we start with the assumption that we will not see the snake(s) often. Known to stress easily, their setups are often filled with furniture restricting any visual observation for extended periods. Because Acrochordus javanicus breathe air, we start each setup with roughly 5070% water depth. The overall water depth will vary based on enclosure and snake sizes, just realize the distance from where they sleep and a breath of air should be reasonable.

Substrate can be as simple as a bare bottom or as elaborate as a planted aquarium. Although we are personally working on a planted pond setup, we prefer a sand substrate. We utilize the bare bottom method with smaller setups but personally enjoy the natural sand look. Depending on the sand depths provided, Acrochordus javanicus can be seen burrowed along branches and rocks. With this in mind, we prefer to use ghost wood or manzanita logs in our setups.

Aside from the natural benefits of tannins leaching out, the larger sections of wood provide a sense of security.

Including a number of hides is another way of providing a sense of security. The hides can be as simple as PVC sections or clay pots for juveniles but become more difficult for the larger snakes. The larger snakes are often strong enough to move just about anything put into the setup. Another method in providing a sense of security is plant coverage.

While live plants look great, they can often be more difficult to maintain. Fake plants on the other hand are simple and come with a great deal of variety. Due to the set up only being 50-70% filled there is also room for adding live plants above the water line. Although mainly a visual preference, the roots of live plants do help filter the aquatic waste in the water.

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nights in a row. Often taking multiple fish in a feeding our best recommendation, for a snake of any size, is to stock a setup with a good-sized school of fish. Although shiners may work for others, we found they simply could not survive the water temperatures so would die off before the snake was interested.

The rosy minnows work great for juveniles, but with the quantity required, we wonder about the nutritional benefit. The next recommendation for feeder fish is your pet shop comet or goldfish.

The goal in striking a strong balance in developing your setup is providing an aquatic environment where the snake does not feel exposed. The more exposed Acrochordus javanicus feel, the more likely they are to be stressed, which can cause a variety of health problems. The most commonly reported health problem Acrochordus javanicus experience in captivity is a fungal infection called white spotting. Although common, the spotting is not entirely understood and is known to come and go between shed cycles. When the snake is in blue, entering a shed phase, the white spotting will be most apparent. After shedding and depending on the severity, the spotting can be seen in the shed skin. Visual presence on the snake is reduced but if severe, can result in exposed wounds.

In our experience this spotting seems to be a visual stress indicator.

We notice the spotting in cases where the animal has taken poorly to their new setup due to exposure or the water temperatures have fluctuated drastically. Having experienced success and failure in the battle, we believe the best method of treating the spotting is to simply address the setup and identify the stressor.

We have tried a number of recommended treatment methods but never witnessed any visual or behavioral improvement.

After various natural and over-the-counter aquarium treatment recommendations, we saw the best results when correcting the temperature fluctuation and enclosure layout. Recently, we were pleased to share a female Acrochordus javanicus, who had been fighting the spotting off and on over the past few years, had entered blue phase with no signs of spotting for the first time.

Although a small victory, it was a victory nonetheless for us.

Now that you’ve got a solid setup and your snake is comfortable, what do you feed a fully aquatic snake? That’s right, fish!

With importers often reporting success with shiners or rosy minnows, a keeper needs to understand these snakes eat. In this area, the Acrochordus javanicus put other snakes to shame. We have personally witnessed adults feeding nightly on large fish multiple

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Although these are not recommended as a primary food source, they have been known to work for many keepers.

The high thiaminase levels in the fish can lead to a thiamine deficiency in snakes. This occurs as a result from the excessive thiaminase breaking down the thiamine required within the snake. Personally, we find offering a variety of fish from mollys, guppies, tilapia to chiclids has been successful. Although we do avoid offering the typical feeder comet or rosy minnows, we will offer them without much concern on the rare occasion. Our best recommendation would be to source tilapia. They are a fish readily available for aquaponics and will thrive in the necessary aquatic environment. Tilapia can be found as fry, aka small fish, for juveniles but also reach large sizes perfect for adult snakes. If you can maintain a consistent feeder supply the occasional “pet shop feeders” seem acceptable in a pinch. Some keepers have also been successful offering fish filets from time to time. This option comes with a warning of course, as the risk of getting bit or worse, contributing additional stresses on the snake, is high.

As a nocturnal hunter, capturing these snakes hunting or feeding is not an easy task. In our experience, juveniles are not shy about feeding, but adults are another story. The juveniles will begin getting excited at the addition of floating a fish bag. They are often even willing to take feeders directly off tongs without hesitation.

Adults on the other hand are much more cautious and have been witnessed venturing out a few hours after new fish have been added to the set up. Acrochordus javanicus hunt using a variety of methods, from the typical ambush to using their tails to fish into crevices. Often using their body to corral the fish, these snakes rely heavily on their sense of touch. With the slightest of touches, the snake hooks around the fish with its entire body; quickly identifying the head and swallowing the fish alive. This process is impressively quick, especially with an adult snake. In a matter of seconds, the fish is seen fighting inside the snake as it moves on to search for its next meal. Seeing this process in action a number of times, we personally don’t wish to take a bite from these snakes. Although we don’t believe the bite from an adult is likely to be too bad, the idea of the filelike scales grinding back and forth while curled teeth designed to hold slippery fish rend the flesh, doesn’t scream “fun event.”

Although the reptile hobby has not entirely embraced the aquatic world, in a way, the time is coming. With the rising interest in natural enclosures and industry support with paludariums, we believe these snakes are finally seeing a potential future. While they may never be the “go to” industry snake, they do have potential to be a stunning conversation piece and display animal in a keeper’s room.

Herpetoculture Magazine 30

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uwabamireptiles.com

The Tools of the Trade

Phil Wolf brings you his tips and preferences in the tools we use in the hobby!

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With Phil Wolf

We’ve all heard the classic phrase, “A person is only as good as their tools.” This phrase can be applied to almost anything in our modern lives. And for this author, it holds very true. My name is Phil Wolf, and I’m a herper.

Over the past 10+ years I have dedicated a piece of myself to developing proper technique and tool usage when handling reptiles. With that being said, another phrase comes to mind, “measure twice, cut once.” We never hear the plumber complain that the pipe leaked because of his faulty wrench or the carpenter complaining that the job was incomplete because of a dull saw blade.

Knowing your tools of your trade is paramount, and this should be no different when handling exotic animals.

Most of the individuals reading this typically don’t have a need to use tools with their pets or collections at home. But we as keepers should always be adapting and improving our husbandry and general practices. When most people think of tools revolving around snakes and other reptiles, snake hooks come to mind first. It’s very common for a new snake keeper to purchase a poorly made, heavy snake hook made of steel from their local reptile show. These hooks are typically inexpensive and produced overseas in places like Pakistan.

There’s nothing wrong with these heavy steel hooks.

They do the job of handling the snake just fine. But craftsmanship of a product can dramatically increase one’s ease of use. You can chop wood with a hatchet, but an axe would be better suited. Steel hooks, although very strong and long-lasting, are heavy and cumbersome. Through the use of modern lightweight alloys, snake hooks have evolved in the 21st century.

Companies like GetHooked, Midwest Tongs, and master hookmaker John Zegel of Georgia Herpetological Supply, produce the best in quality handling equipment that is constantly progressing with innovation.

There are several types of snake hooks designed for different types of snakes. The most common would be referred to as a “U” or “V” shaped hook.

These are typically constructed of a durable alloy, and anodized to protect it from elemental wear.

The shaft and main body of the hook, is usually hollow aluminum and segmented or fluted for durability. The handles are usually constructed of a rubber over-mold reminiscent or exacting of a golf club handle. Using these rubber golf club handles allows for a more precise grip on the hook, as well as allowing for specific left and right hand use.

“Craftsmanship of a product can dramatically increase one’s ease of use.

You can chop wood with a hatchet, but an axe would be better suited. Steel hooks, although very strong and longlasting, are heavy and cumbersome.”

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The Micro Mini Hook from Specialty Enclosure Designs

A field hook made my Midwest Snake Hooks.

Another very common hook style is the Field Hook (above). A Field Hook is almost identical to a traditional U-shaped hook, with the hook head however being made of a heavier metal, longer in length and L-shaped. This hook is used for flipping over heavy objects in the field such as fallen trees and stumps as well as man made debris. This type of hook is not the easiest when handling snakes due to the 90° angle of the hook head. However, with practice and patience, it can be used successfully. Smaller, and lighter versions, not intended for field use, are frequently used by professionals when double hooking fast and unpredictable species such as Dendroaspis and Bothops.

When keeping neonate/hatchling, juvenile and small species of snakes, a Neo Hook is recommended. The Neo Hook is a small, thin snake hook with a U-shaped head. The shaft and handle are typically solid graphite or composite polymer. Specialty Enclosure Designs even makes a 3-D printed hook for extra small neonates that’s the size of a pen! Neo hooks are typically under 24 inches in total length and only used for small, lightweight and arboreal specimens due to the close proximity of the specimen to the handler’s hand.

There’s also a plethora of specialty hooks designed for specific types of snakes. Python Hooks have a very wide hook head to accommodate fatter pythons and vipers. These wide headed hooks distribute the animal’s weight better so there’s no damage to the snake’s ribs. It also allows the keeper to drag the specimen towards themselves for ease of removal in a deep cage.

Adaptations to this style are also found in the new Split-Head design. In lieu of one solid wide piece of U-shaped metal, the hook head is made of two thinner loops that meet at a point forming a heart shape. This allows the hook head to be lighter and have a tip or point on it to aid in scooping.

Travel Hooks are becoming more popular with herpers traveling abroad.

These hooks are produced by GetHooked. They are completely aluminum with a short stout foam rubber handle. Usually under 30 inches in total length, they are easier to throw in a backpack or vehicle door when traveling.

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Below: Python hooks utilize a wide hook for more support with heavier bodied snakes.

There are also several types of collapsible or expanding hooks.

These hooks are used for travel and typically fold in half or retract inside themselves. The idea of such a tool is fantastic. Unfortunately, their construction is usually very weak and it is unsafe to use these hooks on a larger or heavier bodied specimen for fear of the hook snapping or breaking. Several companies such as Venom Life Gear are working with these telescoping hooks to try and perfect this style of tool, while still maintaining structural integrity.

The GetHooked Drawer Puller

Another innovation from GetHooked is the drawer puller. Although not an actual snake hook, this tool uses the shaft and handle of a snake hook with a thin wedge of aluminum in place of the hook head. The tool is used for dragging open drawers in rack systems.

Unlike a hook that has a tip on it, the drawer puller distributes the pressure being pulled on the drawer and allows it to be slid open easily, while keeping the handler away at a safe distance. The puller is long enough to be used as an impromptu hook, and can be used as a directional guide on a snake, much like a shepherd’s crook.

Oftentimes with beginners, the question is asked, “what is the most appropriate length for my everyday snake hook?” With the exception of hatchling and juvenile specimens, this question is relevant to the height of the handler, as well as their arm length and the length and girth of the snake they are handling. Taking into consideration certain long and agile species, the handle of the snake hook should be no less than the length of one’s forearm. This will allow the handler to balance the fulcrum of the hook on their index finger and thumb while maintaining the majority of the handle underneath their forearm for support. When done correctly, 80% of the tool is still in front of the handler’s hand maximizing the distance from the specimen.

Typically with new snake handlers, it is recommended they have a minimum of three hooks. Usually there are two primary hooks of similar size and style, with a third hook being used as a backup. In the event that one or both of the primary hooks have to be abandoned due to an unruly specimen, the third hook should be at the ready, and always found handle facing up!

For someone looking for a specific setup, or a unique custom hook, John Zegel, of Georgia Herpetological Supply, hand crafts snake hooks that are tailored to the individual handler. Shaft composition, grip texturing and placement, as well as hook head design, can all be fitted and fabricated to the end user’s needs. This can be extremely helpful for a keeper who focuses on a specific genera or species.

“Taking into consideration certain long and agile species, the handle of the snake hook should be no less than the length of one’s forearm. This will allow the handler to balance the fulcrum of the hook on their index finger and thumb while maintaining the majority of the handle underneath their forearm for support.”

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Another popular tool with snake keeping are tongs and pillstroms.

Pillstroms are fairly unconventional by today’s standards, but an effective tool when collecting snakes in the field. Pillstroms were originally designed by Medical Doctor Lawrence G. Pillstrom. Much like venom used in medicine today, in the 1950’s, snake venom was at its peak of scientific research. Dr. Pillstrom had been collecting live venomous snake specimens in Arkansas for venom research and was consistently looking for a safer way to capture snakes. In 1954, using an old broom handle and coiled springs from an old refrigerator, he designed a grabbing contraption that would change the way we handle snakes. From that, the Pillstrom tongs were born.

Pillstrom tongs have a long metal shaft with an opposable hook at one end. The other end has a pistol grip with a squeezing trigger. The trigger is attached to a braided metal cable. When the trigger is pressed, the claw at the front closes, grabbing the snake. Because these are made of sharp, ridged metal, extra care must be taken. Snakes could be damaged or killed when too much pressure is applied to the trigger. Because of this, Midwest Tongs has produced their own version of tongs called, the Gentle Giant.

The Gentle Giant Tongs work on the same principle as Pillstroms, however the grabbing claw is wide, curved, and coated in rubber.

When the snake is grabbed, it is essentially squished between the claws so the pressure is distributed and no damage is done to the specimen. Due to the wide claw head of the Gentle Giants, a thinner claw design was deployed in the M1 series of tongs. The M1 series allows for the grabbing of a thinner, faster species of snake, such as a Taipan or Krait. This thin design also allows the handler to negotiate tighter obstacles and crevices that a snake may have found itself in.

Midwest down in user can without

Tongs has also designed a set of tongs to be broken half. Using high quality alloys and retaining pins, the break the tongs in half for storage or transportation fear of weakening the claw or shaft strength.

Reptile keepers often find themselves performing minor medical practices at home. Whether it’s removing eye caps and stuck shed, or determining the animal’s sex for breeding. We frequently see keepers injuring themselves or the animal by grabbing animals behind the head improperly, when a simple tool such as a restraining tube could be used. Restraining tubes are clear plastic tubes of varying sizes used to contain a snake or lizard to prevent the animal from doing harm to the keeper or to itself. Predominantly used with venomous species, this does not exclude these tubes from being used on uncooperative harmless species. It may take some coaxing on the keeper’s part to lure the specimen into the tube. But the rewards of safe handling outweigh the frustrations. Tubes can also be used in conjunction with other equipment. Using a small zip-tie to secure a snake bag to one end of the tube, allows for safe bagging

37 Herpetoculturemagazine.com

without your buddy getting bit from holding the bag open.

It’s also very important for a keeper to have a small assortment of accessories for feeding and general husbandry. Regardless of the type of prey item used, a good set of long hemostats or giant tweezers can be purchased online or from a local reptile show. Hemostats allow the keeper to insert a prey item into the animal’s enclosure, while still keeping a safe distance.

Hemostats also allow for removal of waste and shed skin without disturbing the animal or rearranging the enclosure.

It’s very important that a keeper be familiar with their tools. Hemostats can appear clumsy at first, but essential when figured out. The most common way of holding large hemostats is with the thumb in the top hole, one’s middle finger in the bottom, and the index finger wrapped around the front of the bottom hole. This allows for support of the tool, as well as ease of operation. A handler needs to practice using hemostats extensively before attempting to use or feed with them, especially with venomous species. Keepers have fumbled with hemostats and it cost them dearly, some even with their life. And while most of the information provided in this article is primarily focused on venomous species, all of these tools can be used safely by anyone wishing to keep reptiles and amphibians in the home.

All it takes is dedication and practice to perfect the art of safe handling. We as keepers need to continue to preach safe practicing and good mentorship from everyone in our community. We are never too old to learn a new trick, this author included.

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In The Incubator...

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