Herpetoculture Magazine: January 2020 by Herp Magazine

Issue #3 Jan. 2020

erpetoculture

agazine

An Interview With Zac Herr of ZTH Photography T G Tokay Geckos Cottonmouths: A Trailer Park Favorite

Herp Caging Showdown: Tanks,Tubs,or PVC? Watching CarpetFest Evolve with Eric Burke

Nerding out on Nerodia Keeping Banded Water Snakes!

Cover Photo by Zac Herr

This Issue... - Editor's Note

Pg. 3

Pg. 4

Pg. 5

Contributors

- An Interview with Zac

Herr of ZTH Photography

Pg. 9

Herping Israel pt. 2

with nipper read

Pg. 46

- Herp set-up

showdown: tanks vs tubs vs pvc by Ashley Haude

Pg. 17

- Herp Room Jams Pg. 53

Pg. 18

- Tokay Geckos

- Morelia Spotlight: Bullwinkle

by Mike Toth

Pg. 24

- Herp Book review:

Pg. 54

- Next issue...

The dragon traders

Pg. 24

- Cottonmouths

with Phil Wolf

Pg. 32

- Industry

spotlight: Eric Burke of EB Morelia

Editor's Note

Well it's a new year and time is flying! We're anxious to keep bringing you issues of HM in 2020 and we hope that they only get better with every issue. It's been a short ride thus far but we can say that, so far, every issue has been a blast to put together. Every contributor thus far as been a pleasure to work with and that group continues to grow month to month. Since the beginning of starting this publication we've said that we want it to be a magazine for the community. We're always open to suggestions and want YOU, the reader, to let us know what kind of content you would like to see more of. So please don't hesitate to message us on Facebook or Instagram if you have an idea that you think we should look into! Here's to a new year, a better year, and a better magazine. Let's crush 2020. Thanks!

Justin Smith & Billy Hunt Editors-inChief

Contributors

Justin Smith Editor @palmettocoastexotics

Billy Hunt Editor @uwabamireptiles

Phil Wolf Contributor @knobtails.ig

Eric Burke Contributor @eb_morelia

Nipper Read Contributor @nipperread

Ashley Haude Contributor @methodnoirexoticsllc

Zac Herr Contributor @iammakingart

Chris Montross Contributor @darkhorseherp

Mike Toth Contributor @northernmd_geckos

The Man Behind The Lens Zac Herr of

There are A LOT of photographers on the internet these days. Zac Herr of ZTH Photography as taken social media by storm with his incredible shots, interesting combinations of animals and backgrounds, and the wide range of species he's photographed over the years. As lovers of his work, we wanted to know more about how it all came to be. HM: When did you first get interested in herps? ZH: I have pretty much always had an interest. Like most people that love reptiles and amphibians, I fell in love with dinosaurs as a kid and it grew from there. I had some frogs and turtles as a kid but always had a fascination with dart frogs. Around my freshman year of college, I saw dart frogs in a pet store and knew I was going to start into that realm. I spent a few months researching them and then found a private breeder to purchase from and now almost 9 years later I’m still just has hooked.

HM: When did you pick up photography and how did you get into it? ZH: Shortly after I got my first dart frogs, I got a camera just to take better photos of them to show people. I didn’t really have a desire to do much beyond that and wasn’t at all thinking “I’m going to be a photographer”. I messed around on my own for awhile and then as I bought more frogs and talked to more people in the hobby, people started expressing interest in what I did and I started to set up shoots. I am pretty sure Jared Ruffing with Ruffing’s Ranitomeya was the first person that let me shoot their collection. It really just snowballed from there and to this day probably 99% of what I do just starts from “I heard about you from my friend”. I’m really thankful for all the people that have let me come see their collections.

HM: What do you keep currently or have kept in the past?

ZH: I think the most I ever had at once was five different species of dart frogs with about 50-60 specimens when I was breeding (Dendrobates, Phyllobates, Adelphobates, Ranitomeya, and Allobates for those wondering) and a few other odds and ends. Eventually photography started to take up a lot of my time so I slimmed down the collection. I was spending so much time with other amazing collections I was getting the same fulfillment I did from keeping the animals myself. Now, I am in the process of setting up a Costa Rican display tank with a few native species of HM: What gear are you using for your work?

frogs including glass frogs (H. valerioi). It’s

ZH: I have switched things up a lot over the years. I

always surprising to people that despite

started with a Canon Rebel t3i because my cousin, who

having spent a lot of time working with

is also a photographer, shot Canon so I followed his

venomous snakes, I have never had a snake

advice and it also allowed me to test out some other

of my own.

lenses and gear easily. After a couple years though I switched to Sony mirrorless and now use the A7R2. For lenses, I use my Sony 90mm Macro for just about everything but I also use the Zeiss Batis 40mm, 85mm, and 135mm for a few scenarios. I recently picked up a Laowa 2:1 macro lens though and that has really been a fun lens. For lighting I use two Profoto D2 strobes.

I think it is important though to reinforce though that gear isn’t everything. Some of my favorite images I have taken to this day were the ones I took on the Canon Rebel. The shot I did of the tadpole on the frog’s back was done with a used Canon 6D and shot in a cardboard box and a $50 flash. The gear is just there to help you capture your vision in a specific way, but it’s the vision that matters. HM: What's your favorite species to shoot? ZH: That is a really tough question. I think all animals have something about them that is incredibly unique and amazing. Dart frogs will always be a favorite but I will say that the first time I sat across from a king cobra with nothing between us is something I will never forget. For the sake of saying it, don’t try that at home!

"I think it is important though to reinforce though that gear isn’t everything. Some of my favorite images I have taken to this day were the ones I took on the Canon Rebel."

HM: What’s the coolest place you’ve traveled to for photography?

ZH: Honestly I go to a lot of boring places. The exotic animal hobby facilitates some cool experiences but my shoots are usually just in someone’s living room or basement. It’s not really glamorous that’s for sure.

"I really just want to show the animals I get to work with to as many people as I possibly can. A lot of them are quickly losing their natural habitat or facing extinction for a variety of reasons and I just don’t want anything to go away without having been seen."

See more of Zacs' work at ZTH Photography on Facebook or @iammakingart on IG!

Ranitomeya vanzolinii HM: What groups do you support either in or

HM: What’s the goal of your work or what are you

outside of your work?

wanting to convey with your work?

ZH: For a while I ran a weekly segment called

ZH: I really just want to show the animals I get

Frog Fact Friday for the Rainforest Alliance and

to work with to as many people as I possibly can.

whether it be for resource conservation or

A lot of them are quickly losing their natural

another charity effort, I always try and donate

habitat or facing extinction for a variety of

my work when possible for different

reasons and I just don’t want anything to go

fundraisers. Knowing my work helped further a

away without having been seen. I was so

good cause is incredibly rewarding and I think

inspired early on by the work Joel Sartore and

it’s important that I give back to the hobby and

Robin Moore do and how they translate photos

organizations that let me do what I do.

so easily into educational tools.

HM: What’s the accomplishment you’re most proud of with your photography?

I try and make my own path by using education as a guide but I also try to present my work in a

ZH: Through a local friend, I was able to spend a day in a university research lab photographing salamanders. The room was in the 40s and I had to keep my hands wet most of the time so it was not the most comfortable shoot but it was so much fun to work with those animals. A few weeks later, the research project was picked up for an online story by National Geographic and they ended up using my image for it. That’s probably the most ‘cool’ thing I am proud of, but doing a solo gallery show was also a big personal milestone.

relatable and fun way to help bring people in. For example, I think the animals speak for themselves, but sometimes putting a baby gecko on a pencil eraser helps grab someone’s attention. That being said, the edutainment route is a fine line. There have been plenty of times I have thrown out an idea or simply stopped photographing an animal mid-shoot because they were obviously stressed by it. You always have to put the animal first and sometimes it means not getting the shot.

Herping Israel: Part 2 With Nipper Read

Waking up, we had a quick breakfast and packed our things. Jurgen travels light and his small bag contained only seven cartons of Marlboros and three pairs of pants ( I exaggerate, of course, there were only two pairs of pants). We jumped in the car and Jurgen started the long drive in his usual, slow and steady style, like driving Miss Daisy but with more speed and swearing.

Our first objective was a well known site for Softshell Turtles. We arrived reasonably early and the heat was not too bad. The site was not much to look at, a small river with a bridge, surrounded by farmland. However as soon as we approached the waters edge, the Trionyx came to see us as they are very used to being fed by tourists and are not as timid as Mauremys. Also present in the river were huge muskrats and catfish benefiting from the protection afforded to the turtles and the tourist food scraps. We spent a happy half-hour with the Trionyx triunguis (pictured above) and the occasional Mauremys rivulata until our attention was distracted by a Hoopoe, a common bird, but still pretty. Unfortunately, our peaceful muses were interrupted by the arrival of a coach load of particularly noisy children, the look of horror on Jurgens' face was splendid, like my nan when someone put the tea in the cup before the milk. We packed up and drove further into the agricultural area. The landscape was predominantly sand with short bushes and sparse vegetation. Jurgen quickly spotted a Schreiber's Fringe-Fingered Lizard, Acanthodactylus schreiberi syriacus.

We had to be extremely careful as the habitat was terra typica for Daboia. Despite our best efforts, we only saw Ocellated Skinks (Chalcides ocellatus) and an all too brief glimpse of a Red Whip Snake (Platyceps collaris). Sweaty like a fat blokes flip flops, we got back into the car, cranked up the AC and headed further south, stopping at a garage as Jurgens nicotine and caffeine levels had fallen to dangerous levels. We flipped some trash only finding geckos and more Camel Spiders. We continued South and reached our accommodation which ended up being a very strange "guest house" in the middle of the desert. This desert shack was run by an old stoner. It took about twenty minutes for his kids to wake him to meet us. What the house lacked in organization, it made up for in views. The stoner told us that Ibex (a form of wild goat) could be best seen at 3 A.M. near the houses. This struck me as odd as Ibex are not especially nocturnal so Jurgen and I went to look at 17:00, a much more pleasant time. We quickly found and photographed these magnificent desert antelopes.

"We flipped some trash only finding geckos and more Camel Spiders. We continued South and reached our accommodation which ended up being a very strange "guest house" in the 10 middle of the desert."

An Ibex

Soon after, Jurgen let out a small yell. He had spotted another snake, and it was a stunner. One of the most beautiful snakes of the trip. Without wishing to sound too Mills and Boon, the colours were fantastic, a coral pink, matching the desert sand perfectly. The noise of the snake rubbing its scales together was amazing and the calling card of Echis coloratus, the Palestine Saw-Scaled Viper. Extremely dangerous, extremely aggressive and utterly beautiful just like my fiancĂŠe. Seeing Saw-Scaleds in this rock desert habitat was such an honour. An absolute highlight for any venom head.

We drove into the desert to await the golden hour of road cruising. The habitat was markedly different to the North, dunes and small stone desert prevailed here. Jurgen whose trip logistics Echis coloratus and research would be the envy of a Delta force briefing, had selected a section of road that had previously been good to him. We drove the 5 km section a few times and then Jurgen saw the first snake of the evening a fabulous Atractaspis engaddensis, the Black Asp. Supposedly the snake that killed Cleopatra. A stunning snake and a real trip highlightÂ even though we saw a few of these, the excitement never dwindled. We continued driving and saw a number of Stenodactylus sthenodactylus a very cute, but hard to photograph gecko species as they are almost translucent.

Sthenodactylus sthenodactylus

"This species of cat snake is stunning. Orange and red with the typical vertical pupils of the Telescopus genus. A lizard feeder that yet again had me looking at the utter sparseness of the environment , the rarity of prey items, the temperature highs and lows it makes me question how we keep stuff in our collections."

ra dha s u cop s e Tel Back in the car and extremely satisfied, not expecting anything to top the Echis, I spotted a snake in the middle of the road. We leapt out of the car and found a very hard to see snake, the stunning Arabian Cat Snake, Telescopus dhara. We were stoked to say the least. We may have even had a little cuddle (what happens in the desert stays in the desert). To find such a hard to see species in such a barren environment was incredible luck. This species of cat snake is stunning. Orange and red with the typical vertical pupils of the Telescopus genus. A lizard feeder that yet again had me looking at the utter sparseness of the environment , the rarity of prey items, the temperature highs and lows it makes me question how we keep stuff in our collections. Luck struck again on our way back as we crossed paths with another Echis! We got back to the guest house in the wee small hours but as all good herpers know, you get all the sleep you need when your dead, so we were back at it nice and early as we headed to the dunes before the temps got ridiculous.

We scanned the sand for tracks from the previous night. There were some but not as many as Jurgen had seen on his previous trips. Soon the temperature rose considerably and we started seeing lizards in no time. Fringe-Toed Lizards were in abundance, uber rapid and very hard to tell the species apart. Jurgen then saw a fabulously grumpy Agama. Even though this little fella was only 20 cm long, he thought he could take us both on. He was probably right, temps were really getting hot and chasing lizards in extreme heat resulted in extreme sweat. We continued the exploring of the dunes, seeing more fringe-toeds, possibly scutellatus and boskianus and then Jurgen saw a Varanus griseus. We gave chase, not the smartest thing to do considering the temps, we tracked it for about 500m and Jurgen remembered a burrow with tracks from his previous trip.

We waited at the burrow, Jurgen smoking. Me sweating what little fluids I had left. No monitor appeared, so once we reached an even cooked consistency we left. We headed back to rehydrate and I had some major camera servicing to do. Sand really does get everywhere and the lenses were starting to jam. After a few hours of domestics, camera cleaning, battery charging , pants washing, that kind of thing, we headed out to a rubbish tip on the outskirts of a small town, temps were falling and flipping seemed the way forward. The site proved very successful, scorpions of a particularly naughty variety were under a great deal of the rocks, the larger flatter rocks provided cover for Trachylepis vittata and Eumeces schneideri, big chunky skinks. We left the site and headed for another section of road. Unfortunately, traffic was heavy and we started to see road killed snakes, very depressing. At last we found a live snake, another Atractaspis, then we saw Jurgens' number one objective (Daboia doesn't count, they’re his obsession) crossing the road in front of us was an adult Egyptian Cobra, Walterinnesia aegyptia. It was a fantastic sight, jet black and very sturdy, one of the most powerful venomous snakes I’ve ever held. Extremely pleased with ourselves we got back to the house and had a much needed meal of instant noodles and turned in.

Walterinnesia aegyptia

Trachylepis vittata Up and at it again the next day, we met up with Guy. We drove along with Guy pointing out a series of holes in the desert for communications cables, herps fall into these and Guy and Aviad regularly check these to rescue any trapped occupants. Most had only geckos and Fringe-Toed Lizards. One hole presented us with the fabulous little False Smooth Snake, Macroprotodon cucullatus, a lovely little mildly venomous rearfanged snake. We drove on and stopped at an area of trash. After turning over trash in the heat we only found more Solifuges and skinks so we headed off to pick up Aviad. The sight that greeted us was to say the least disturbing. Aviad, had changed out of his work uniform short notice, putting on the only spare clothes he could find, he stood resplendent in a pair of electric blue micro shorts that were so tight that they would have constricted an anorexic Cuban waiter. Aviad is not anorexic, he is tall and big built, he had teamed the shorts with a white tshirt and his uniform boots. I have seen some bad shite in my years of law enforcement, but this was a special kind of bad. We got Aviad into the car, worried that the shorts were cutting off his circulation and if the police would be after us as. Aviad had clearly stolen the shorts from a ten year old boy.

First stop was a batch of dry water holes, accessible only by rope ladders. Full of pigeons but sadly no herps, except in the middle of the desert a solitary green toad, no water visible in any direction, just bare rock. Day Solifuges were in abundance, pretty in a weird kind of way. Never wanting to let fear stop me from doing something I managed to convince myself to stroke one, very soft, in case you don’t feel like touching one yourself. Aviad and Guy found us two wanted species, the Tegu look alike, Acanthodactylus beershebensis and the very small and cute small-spotted lizard, Mesalina guttulata. We also saw the wonderful Trapelus pallidus, a stunning Agama species.

With our skin heads, tattoos and Aviads shorts and boots, we looked like the oldest, and oddest boy band as we headed back to the rubbish tip from the previous night. Here Aviad found my favourite non-venomous snake of the trip, a Sinai Dwarf Racer, Eirenis coronelloides. I love the fact that this tiny snake eats scorpions. Looking at its face, it knows its cool. We left the dump and visited an area of stoney desert. Here, Jurgen met a special friend, the very skinny Sinai Agama, Pseudotrapelus sinaitus, a gravid female, as indicated by the red patches on the back. This individual became very attached to Jurgen, jumping onto his camera. We then cruised the roads as the golden hour approached but found absolutely no snakes! We saw hyena, porcupine, mice and ever present, Solifuge but no chuffing snakes. We went home very late and very disappointed. On our last day Jurgen and I did some tourist-y stuff whilst we waited for the boys and Leum to finish work or get up. We went to another water hole, more pigeons and lots of flies but no herps so we headed for the dunes. In true Israeli style, Aviad brought me a snake as a present, a much wanted Dolichophis jugularis, the black whip snake.

Acanthodactylus beershebensis

"Trips like this are a blessing. The variety of species, the completely alien habitat, but most of all, the cool people you share the thrill of the hunt with. Choose your herping chums wisely!" We headed into the dunes and Aviad and Guy showed me how to follow the tracks of the desert herps and mammals, an absolute honour to be allowed into the chaps favourite arena. Here Aviad showed me, what was my favourite lizard of the whole trip, Chalcides sepsoides, the awesome wedge nose sand skink. As Jurgen found me a Cerastes vipera lovely Stenodactylus petrii, a beautiful tiny gecko. In the high spot of the dunes however, we found my favourite venomous snake of the trip, the tiny Cerastes vipera. Following their sidewinder tracks for hundreds of yards across the dunes to finally find the tiny little viper under a bush was magical. Sadly it got late, and Jurgen and I had to head off for the airport. We said our goodbyes and drove to Tel Aviv. Jurgen flew at 06:00 after shedloads of queuing and security checks. I flew home at 16:45, after being searched five times very thoroughly and being awake for around 39 hours. I slept most of the flight home. I arrived back in rainy Blighty and after a long drive finally got home and had a decent cup of tea. Trips like this are a blessing. The variety of species, the completely alien habitat, but most of all, the cool people you share the thrill of the hunt with. Choose your herping chums wisely!

See more of Nippers' travels and follow him on Instagram at @nipperread!

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Returning to Melrose, Florida February, 8 th Mark your calendars and join the SECF

2020 Facebook Group to stay in the loop!

Breeding Tokay Geckos: What it’s like to breed and keep these misunderstood “Demons”

By Mike A. Toth of Northern Maryland Geckos 18

First things first – I would like to express that I do not consider myself an expert on the subject matter at hand, and I am not the only individual who has bred and hatched out geckos such as Gekko gecko (Tokay Geckos) and their relatives within the genera. However, I can share with you what I’ve learned throughout my venture of attempting to breed the species and what it took to finally hatch out a few specimens and how some of this information can be applied to other similar gecko species, and trying to get a better understanding on why not all tactics or methods will work for every person trying to do the same. Breeding Tokays and other Gekkonidae species may be easier for some than it may be for others.

GAINING APPRECIATION FOR SUCH A MISREPRESENTED SPECIES To really get the first stepping stones set to begin such a project, one must first gain appreciation for the species and try to understand what makes them tick. You have to put yourself in the gecko’s “shoes”, research the hell out of them, and find a general consensus on how to simulate their natural habitat. Only from there will you appreciate the species by watching the natural behaviors they exhibit.

Everyone is aware of the Tokay gecko – they have been known in the hobby for a long time as demonic little blue geckos that will rip your fingers apart. They without a doubt do have a defensive behavior, but sometimes you have to understand that being a small lizard isn’t easy by any means. Tokays are predators, but they are also prey. Snakes seem to be their main predators in the wild, and the defensive behavior of Tokay seems to stem from this predator-prey relationship. Tokays are small lizards, but they’re giant geckos. They have very strong jaws and sharp teeth – great for killing their favorite food and excellent in the defense department against animals trying to eat them.

From personal experience, despite their lessdesirable nature, Tokay geckos and other species from the Gekko genus are incredibly intelligent geckos. Quite easily the most intelligent of all geckos that I’ve owned and worked with. With intelligence, comes the difficulty of trying to interact with them. This seems to be a strange rule within reptiles in general. The smarter they are, the harder it is to work with them and gain their trust. With Tokays, it’s more than possible. It takes a lot of patience, and some blood loss, but once you’ve befriended a Tokay, they can make the best pet geckos in my opinion. Tokays are highly misunderstood, and humans like to work with reptiles that they virtually have to put very little effort into gaining trust and handling. But with the right patience and mindset, you can get a Tokay that’ll be one of the best pets you could ever have. The stigma that is attached to the species is highly undeserved. By gaining appreciation and understanding them, working with the species is so much easier.

SETTING UP THE STAGE FOR BREEDING To get Tokay geckos to breed isn’t necessarily difficult, however getting their husbandry down pat can be difficult and varies by the regions that the keepers themselves inhabit. I’m from Maryland. It’s considered a part of the south, however we get brutal winters here. During the Spring and Fall I find it slightly easier to maintain temperatures and humidity. The bitter cold sucks the heat and humidity right out of my house, which becomes the most stressful time for my geckos and for myself. Winter is the roughest. Especially with tropical species like Gekko gecko. You have to adapt your knowledge of keeping the species and figuring out a system that works. That’s the difficult part.

Before introducing Tokays together, you have to make sure 100% of what their genders are. If you don’t do this, and introduce two males by accident, you’ll end up with one being severely injured. That is preventable and they can be easily sexed at the adult stage. Tokays lack hemipenal bulges seen in other gecko species and it is mainly by observing femoral pores. They also exhibit some sexual dimorphism. Males have more pronounced pores, and the area where these pores are located feel waxy and sticky. They also have very wide noggin’s, and males generally are larger. The average length of these geckos in captivity seem to be around 10-12 inches. Also, when introducing, make sure your Tokays are up to weight. Females are smaller; however, I have found despite weight, they will breed but a female should have some girth to her to allow her to bounce back better from laying eggs. Supplementation and diet variety is key. Tokays do well in a male-female communal set up, but during breeding make sure you are ramping up the nutritional needs for the female. Especially for calcium production and D3 synthesis.

I started housing my pairs in 29-gallon aquariums that I had flipped and converted into arboreal enclosures. For where I live, these work the best to maintain humidity. But are much harder to heat, and you don’t get to utilize most products available at your disposal. Nowadays I prefer and find an 18x18x36 inch ZooMed Paludarium enclosure works really well.

Here is the underside view of a juvenile Tokay gecko's femoral pores. At this size sexing is difficult, but this one may be male considering how visible the pores are.

Maintaining humidity is more difficult, however I utilize plastic wrap on most of the screen top to trap what I can within the enclosure without sacrificing too much air flow. You don’t want the air to become stagnant. I also find Tokays do best in bio-active enclosures and it gives them proper enrichment. This I find stimulates their natural behavior much more than simple “sterile” set-ups. In turn, I feel will give you better results with breeding.

Many people tend to separate the adults after laying the third clutch of eggs to prevent overbreeding. I have not done that, but I haven’t seen any ill-effects from not separating "I also find Tokays do best in bio-active them. This may be due to me ensuring that the enclosures, and gives them proper enrichment. female is getting more than enough calcium to This I find stimulates their natural behavior prevent any crashing people have spoken of. much more than simple “sterile” set-ups." My Tokays don’t seem interested in breeding all year round as well. It seems more based on Heat plays a huge part in breeding as well, and weather and seasonal triggers that initiate mainly just keeping Tokays. I utilize 25-watt breeding. I notice my Tokays move more into halogen bulbs and fixtures manufactured by breeding mode during rainy weather, and the Zilla. They’re powerful and provide proper barometric pressure change truly triggers them basking areas, and from separate sources I into that. have found Halogen bulbs are more cost efficient and produce Infrared A-B, which is a much healthier form of heat. I also utilize UVB with one pair of Tokays as well.

My ambient room temps during the day are usually around 75-77 degrees, so within the tanks it is usually is about 82-86 degrees at the highest points and the gradient drops down to 72-75 at the bottom of the tank. I also allow the temps to drop down to 75-78 at night. Female Tokays will deposit their eggs where the temperature is just right for incubation. Humidity wise I try to maintain a 60-80% range throughout the day. I find a misting system works really well, and for people in drier climates I suggest one.

INCUBATING AND LEAVING THE YOUNG WITH PARENTS The hard part of breeding is getting successful hatches and good solid eggs. Sometimes it takes the females time to really produce nice, viable eggs. Incubating them with patience is even more difficult. Tokay geckos do not bury their eggs, instead they adhere them to a surface within their enclosure.

I leave the babies with the parents. Many new wave reptile hobbyists and keepers say this is a no-no, however many of them have not worked with the species nor do they know that Tokays have complex social relationships with each other. They are also a tough crowd to persuade and reason with at times, even with the most thorough evidence. Although their parental care isn’t on the same level of a mammal’s, the adults do protect and raise the young. The hatchlings mirror the parents in behavior and what the parents choose to eat. So, there is a sense of learning with this species. My pair that is more tolerant of handling has a singular offspring that in turn is very tolerant of being interacted with. My other pair who has had more success in hatching offspring are flightier, and their offspring reflects that as well.

A juvenile staying within the comfort of its father’s presence

They come out of the female’s cloaca as a soft, gooey gelatin-like ball. The female uses her back legs to form its shape and to stick it within a tube structure or to another surface. When the egg’s shell dries, it becomes hard and develops a super strong bond to whatever surface it is attached to.

Bottom line, the parents do not tend to look at their offspring as food. If there have been any instances of filial cannibalism, it is usually an accident during feeding time or the keeper simply isn’t providing enough food for the communal set-up. It isn’t mandatory to keep them in this manner, and you can separate them and they will do fine as well. It’s merely up to the individual on how they plan to carry out their project and methods of husbandry.

You’re not going to be able to remove them without destroying them. So, either you can leave them to hatch in situ, or remove the entire surface and incubate them at around 8083 degrees. Its best to keep the temperature range in the high 70’s into the mid 80’s within the enclosure. The eggs may take longer to incubate, but you will have larger and stronger babies if they successfully hatch.

CLOSURE So, through my experience, Tokays are an interesting species to breed solely on the social abilities they possess. I don’t breed for morphs with any of my geckos, the more natural it is to me the more beautiful it is. Tokays alone are stunning to look at. The experience was difficult, and many eggs were lost before I actually managed to hatch my first one. A few had fallen off the surface they were adhered to, and I had incubated those which increased the chances and one hatched in situ. I believe where I live geographically makes it more difficult for these geckos to breed and hatch successfully without some form of human intervention. But this may not always be the case with everyone. I have spoken with a few breeders that live in colder climates that have had very little issue with their projects. Climates like southern Florida are the most ideal for this species and probably are easier to keep there as well. It would make sense – Tokays are another invasive species found there.

It was a pleasure sharing my experiences and opinions, and remember, do what you think works best for your Tokay geckos. There’re multiple ways to achieve the proper husbandry needed for them. They can be kept successfully in communal set-ups, but that doesn’t mean you have to do it. Although I really would like to bury the misconceptions that unfortunately dampen this gecko species reputation and potential, and see more people trying to work with them down the road.

Follow Mike on Instagram @northernmd_ geckos 23

Herp Book Review The Dragon Traders: A Collective History of the Reptile Trade in America and the Age of Herpetoculture By Justin Smith

Let me start by saying that when I first heard about this book I was VERY excited to get a copy. With so many books being published on captive care or natural history, it was refreshing to see a book that focuses more on the history of the hobby. To say that this book is in-depth would be an understatement. Throughout reading it I continually wondered how many hours of research and hunting for the documents or articles referenced took. The book starts quite literally from the beginning of reptiles being displayed for the public with the era of side-shows and circuses. From there it progresses decade by decade, describing the evolution of the hobby as well as the people who helped shape what it is today. Some figures were at one point or another considered controversial in herpetocultural history but undoubtedly had an influence on what the hobby is today. It also touches on some of the species that helped propel the industry to its current state.

It will be interesting to see where the hobby continues to go as I look forward to going back to this book many years later and seeing how things have changed even MORE since this release. This is a worthy book to add to any herp library. I'm a firm believer that you should know where you come from to know where you're going. In an ever expanding hobby, its nice to know who helped pave the way for where we are now. Those individuals put in the real work via serious trial and error with all the species we keep today. I think we owe it to their legacy to remember who they were. This book helps us keep their legacy alive.

p m a w S

LIONS THE U.S. COTTONMOUTH

By Phil Wolf

“And that’s when It swam over, mouth open, and charged me!”Everyone who’s into reptiles has heard that same story over and over again. The classic southern fable of the vicious cottonmouth that chased down someone’s cousin and bit them! My name is Phil Wolf, and I’m a herper. And one of my personal quests is debunking the great myths about Cottonmouths. Cottonmouths or “Water Moccasins,” (as they’re often referred as) are highly venomous pit vipers, native to North America. They don’t charge or chase down humans. They don’t strike down from the trees into boats and they certainly don’t have underwater nests, waiting to gang-up on would-be water skiers. Of the countless times that this author has heard stories of swamp vipers chasing down rednecks, every single one of them could be explained as to why the snake was heading in the direction of the human. But before we start dissecting tall tales, let’s take a look at this amazing species in all of its awesomeness! Cottonmouths go by many common names. Water moccasin, pond rattler, snap jaw, and water viper, to name a few. My personal favorite, “Swamp Lion”, I think holds the best connotation. Scientifically, cottonmouths are described as, Agkistrodon piscivorus. The etymology is derived from Latin and Ancient Greek. The generic name, Agkistrodon means, “Hooked-tooth.” While the specific name, piscivorus means, “Fish-eater.” A fitting name for the only true semi-aquatic pit viper. Cottonmouths are true masters of their habitat. They reside in a wide range of subtropical ecosystems across the southeastern United States. Swamps, bogs, cypress heads, rivers, lakes and streams make up the majority of their kingdom. This species will even occupy many man-made ponds and golf courses.

Typical Cottonmouth territory There are three subspecies of cottonmouths. From Southeast Virginia down to northern Georgia, is the Eastern Cottonmouth, A. p. piscivorus. These are typically recognized by having darker earth-tones of chocolate brown and faded tan bands. From Alabama, west into eastern Texas, is the Western Cottonmouth, A. p. leucostoma. This species has more pronounced banding of brown and olive drab. And lastly, from South Georgia through the entirety of the Florida peninsula, we have the Florida Cottonmouth, A. p. conanti.

Lateral lines of brown and white run horizontally across the face, with the top of the head being copper-ish in color. This copper color can sometimes confuse people, mistaking a baby Cottonmouth for an actual Copperhead, Agkistrodon contortrix. Baby cottons also have a distinct caudal lure. The tip of their tail is brightly colored, highlighter green, yellow, or white. Much like a fisherman uses a brightly colored bait lure, baby cottons undulate their tail tip to attract prey. Everything likes to eat a yellow worm.

By far the dullest looking of the moccasins, A. p. conanti is almost entirely black in color, with a lighter underside and brown markings on the face. All adult cottons are heavy bodied with long, thin tails. An average adult will be around three feet long (91cm) but they can get up to and exceed five feet. Neonate and juvenile cottonmouths are drastically different in appearance from adults. Babies are cryptically banded with rusty-red, chocolate brown, and tan.

Young piscivorus coloration

The display that got them their name.

Several species of harmless water snakes in the genus Nerodia, mimic the behavior and appearance of the cottonmouth. They have similar banded markings and will oftentimes flatten their heads to appear more “viperish.” This is a common thing in the animal world. However, uneducated humans didn’t get that memo. As a result, water snakes are often confused with cottonmouths and killed by humans. Having grown up in South Florida, I’ve had the privilege and excitement of working with hundreds of Cottonmouths in my life. And each and every one was a unique and special experience. Smelly, but special. Like most snakes, Cottonmouths are fearful of humans. They view us as a large predator and will do anything they can to evade the situation. Their first line of defense is to musk.

“Ah, the sweet smell of Everglades victory.” The musk of the Cottonmouth is a foul smelling, sticky liquid, that could, quite literally, clear a crowd. Since Cottons have keeled-scales, their musk can permeate in between their scales for a long lasting effect. As rank of a smell as it is, it has a “sharpsweet” odor to it, that could be used as an indicator that a Cottonmouth is near. Being semi-aquatic, they’re faster in the water than on land but not as slow as they may appear. Being a stout-bodied snake, they lack the speed and maneuverability to elude most larger predators. So to make up for this lack in agility, they’ve evolved to produce a terrifying display for defense. When threatened or cornered, Cottonmouths will cock their head back and flash open the inside of their mouth, exposing their venom injecting fangs. The inside of their mouth is bone white which contrasts from their dark body color amazingly. This is where they get their infamous moniker from. 28

If the aggressor is persistent, not being phased by this white warning, then the viper will launch itself towards the aggressor with incredible speed and bite. The strike range of the cottonmouth is usually the length of their body. A four-foot snake, could strike four feet or more. The most common problem people have when encountering a Cottonmouth, is that the humans know what species it is and will provoke it to try and instigate a “mouth flash.” This is traumatic to the snake and can cause high levels of stress. At the same time, it can push the snake over the edge, to the point that someone gets bitten.

All of these places are typical scenes where a cottonmouth may be found using its thermal vision and senses to find safe and dry land. Being highly aquatic, Cottonmouths have adapted to swimming on the surface of the water. The top half of their body is heavily keeled. While the bottom half is smooth and streamlined. As the snake cuts through the surface of the water, the majority of their mass rides above the meniscus of the water. Thus allowing them to float and use less energy.

It’s been said that a cottonmouth can track a persons’ movement and will focus on one person in a group, attacking them specifically. This is partially true. Cottonmouths are part of a subfamily of vipers called Crotalinae or pit vipers. This subfamily also consists of Rattlesnakes and most South American vipers. They get the name pit vipers, because of the heat-sensing pits on the sides of their face. These pits are used to detect infrared thermal radiation, i.e. “Heat Vision.” Much like the thermal camera on a police helicopter, a Cottonmouth can see body heat in total darkness. So when a group of kids surround a Cottonmouth and poke it with a stick, the snake is most likely going to visually lock-on to the first heat source that’s provoking it and follow it as the primary threat to it’s safety. Usually it’s the kid with the stick. Using this thermal vision to navigate cool waterways and thick terrain, can play a key role in the myth that cottonmouths chase humans. As the stories go, they typically take place on or near water. Whether it’s someone kayaking, a duck hunter standing in waders in a patch of cattails or the poor little boy fishing off the dock at his local pond.

Heat Sensing Pit

Cottons will typically hug the shoreline of a body of water where, coincidentally, the humans are hanging out. What the duck hunter doesn’t see, is that he’s standing in the cottonmouth’s escape route. As for the person in the kayak minding their own business, when the cottonmouth climbs onboard, it’s because the snake is tired from swimming and needs a break on the human’s giant plastic log. But what about when they chase you down?!? Guess what, they don’t. Cottonmouths don’t chase humans. Typically, when a cottonmouth is seen “chasing” someone, it’s one of two scenarios. Either the snake is attempting to slither to safety, which happens to be in the path of the human. Or the snake is doing what is oftentimes referred to as a “bluff charge.” A bluff charge is when a snake assumes a defensive posture and lunges at the aggressor without actually biting. The snake will “strike” with a closed mouth. And at the last minute, veer to the side slithering away. This is most commonly seen with Australian Elapids.

Now this next part may be a bit shocking for those readers that have made it this far. Cottonmouth’s DON’T have underwater dens used for swarming kids on spring break. Yes, cottons can swim underwater. Yes, they can bite underwater (they eat fish) and no, they don’t actively ball or “school” underwater. There have been several cases where a den of swamp vipers has been found along the shoreline of creeks and streams.

This is usually a burrow made by a different animal (typically a mammal) and is then used by the vipers as shelter from inclement weather. There have even been reports of mother vipers remaining with their offspring in these dens for a short time postpartum to insure the neonates have a safe and healthy start to life. Yes, that’s right, Cottonmouths give live birth. Cottonmouths are ovoviviparous. This means their eggs develop and incubate inside the mother. The mother then gives birth to 8-16 live young. Baby cottons are typically 8-10 inches long (20-25cm) and have the full venomous capabilities just like older Agkistrodon. So what about that venom? When a cottonmouth bites its prey, it injects an appropriate amount of venom to kill the prey item. The venom of Agkistrodon piscivorus is a cocktail of proteins containing haemotoxic, myotoxic and cytotoxic properties.

The venom is used primarily for killing and immobilizing prey animals. Certain fibrinogens in the venom promote massive blood clotting. And myotoxic peptides in the venom cause fast diaphragmatic paralysis. Essentially, the envenomated prey item dies from major hemorrhaging, extreme blood clots and circulatory suffocation from paralysis. Certain cytotoxins help to break down the internal organs of the prey item. Literally starting digestion before the snake actually eats its prey.

The venom is produced in glands on top of the snake’s head, just behind the eyes. Ducts carry the venom from the glands down to the snake’s fangs, which are hollow and beveled, like a hypodermic needle. Venom is precious to a snake. It takes time to make and needs to be used sparingly. As a defense mechanism, it’s a last resort in the viper’s arsenal. This is why cottonmouths are usually reluctant to bite for defense. Why would they waste valuable venom, used for hunting, on a predator? But when all else fails, the venomous bite certainly does the trick. If you or a friend are bitten by a Cottonmouth, immediately dial 911 and seek medical help. Most Cottonmouth bites are nonfatal. But the venom is still considered lethal! Luckily, this species is native (assuming you live in North America) and most hospitals and zoos have antivenin on hand. The two main antivenins used for cottonmouth bites are CroFab, (produced using Cottonmouth's venom) and Antivipmyn. Both are currently produced, but are not cheap. Even with antivenin, bites from cottonmouths can have lasting effects on a human. Scars, permanent muscle damage, and amputations are entirely possible. Despite the horrors of the Cottonmouth’s venom, these snakes have a bad rap. Too many people for too long have persecuted and mistreated these amazing reptiles. Myth upon myth, tale upon tale. Let’s educate ourselves and others so we can better cohabitate with these amazing animals.

Follow Phil for more at @nephrurus.ig 31

"Despite the horrors of the Cottonmouth’s venom, these snakes have a bad rap. Too many people for too long have persecuted and mistreated these amazing reptiles. Myth upon myth, tale upon tale."

Industry Spotlight

Eric Burke of EB Morelia, Morelia Python Radio, & Carpetfest godfather 32

Even if you’re not too hip to the world of Morelia and the people in the hobby who focus on the genus, it’s very likely that you’ve listened to at least ONE episode of Morelia Python Radio over the last 8+ years. For this edition of our online Q&A we asked Eric Burke of EB Morelia and MPR what it’s been like seeing the podcast landscape change in the hobby and seeing Carpet Fest become a national (and now international) gathering!

HM: What made you decide to start breeding as a business? EB: I have always been passionate about keeping reptiles and I did that for many years without ever thinking about breeding. It wasn't until around 2007 that it crossed my mind to try to breed. I've always been under the idea of ”growing” into business rather than ”going” into business.

So I have slowly built up a collection over the years with the hope that one day I would be able to support myself with my passion. I also want to make sure that the snakes that I work with are available for the next group of herpers.

HM: Why do you enjoy Morelia so much?

EB: I love all things Australia but my favorite thing in Australia is the pythons. That led me to keep carpet pythons and there is nothing better. They are the perfect python. They get bigger than a ball python (maybe not my carpets! lol)but not too big. They make great display animals.

They are chill as adults and they come in so many different colors and patterns and that’s even before you add morphs into the equation. They eat great, shed great and those big beefy python heads are so impressive! They are just it for me. Python perfection!

"I love all things Australia but my favorite thing in Australia is the pythons."

HM: Who helped you when you were first getting into Morelia?

EB: There are so many people that have helped me or given me support over the years, but five people come to mind. Luke Snell was the first guy that invited me into his collection and showed me his process for breeding carpets. He is also responsible for fueling my obsession with Morelia spilota harrisoni (West Papuan or Irian Jaya Carpet Pythons).

Next would be Nick Mutton from Inland reptile. He was responsible for getting me into higher end carpet pythons. He taught me so much when it comes to the history, breeding as a business, caring for and breeding of these amazing pythons. He was always there to answer my questions, and he wasn't afraid to tell me I am doing it wrong. He helped me through breeding, egg binding, prolapse, and many other things that pop up when keeping live animals. I consider him a good friend.

The next person would be Owen McIntyre, my co-host on Morelia Python Radio. Owen had a lot of experience in the zoo field, and he taught me how to be more efficient in my snake room. He is also someone I consider a great friend, and he is a witty SOB.

Next up would be Matt Minetola from Philly Herp. Although he doesn't keep carpets, he is someone who I strive to be like. He has an immaculate collection, he has an awesome approach to projects, and he's got a great attitude and gets me excited about being in the hobby. We've become great friends over the past years.

Last up would be my good friend Rob Stone from Highplains Herptoculture. I first heard Rob on reptile radio and was blown away by the guy's knowledge about reptiles and the hobby. We started talking, and that was that. We are great friends, and he is a huge help to me and MPR.

We recently began to travel to Australia together, and we are headed back in Oct. of 2019. We are addicted and have plans to go to OZ for the next ten years, and we still wouldn't be able to see it all. I think what impresses me about Rob is that you can seriously ask him anything about reptiles and I would bet that he knows about it.

HM: What was it like in the earlier days of Morelia before they really took off and became more popular? EB: It was an exciting time. The jag was the big thing, and I would stare at MP forum for hours, dreaming about one day owning one. There wasn't nearly the availability that we see today. Darwin carpets were talked about because of the albino morph, but for die-hard

We are all pretty tight with each other, and we all have our own vision and style. I remember how excited I would be when a new episode of reptile radio was on my iPod for Sunday morning drive to work. They did an episode with Will Bird, and of course, he was talking carpet pythons, I thought that it would be so cool to hear from the other Morelia breeders.

carpet keepers, we would have been happy with just some hets. Inland carpets were something that I never thought that I would see in person let alone have in my collection.

I contacted Larry and BT a bunch of times asking for different Morelia breeders, and they brought some on, and I thought I could do my version of Reptile Radio but with a focus on

We take so much for granted in the Morelia hobby these days. I mean we have rough scale pythons! There were only a few morphs of

Morelia and dispelling the myths and misconceptions that are associated with them.

carpets available. Then we seemed to explode on to the hobby. MPR, Carpet Fest, The Complete Carpet Python, ICASS and Carpet Row at Tinley Park. It was a good time with great people, and I feel blessed to have been there to see it.

So, in 2011 I started Morelia Python Radio aka MPR. We have had so many awesome guests come on and share their tips and thoughts with the world, and I am forever in debt to them.

HM: What is it like being a part one of the

I think the best thing for me is when I get a

original podcasts in the hobby and seeing more

message, and it's from someone that listened

coming into the fold?

to the show, and the info led them to be

EB: I love the podcast scene now. There are so

successful. To me, that is the sweet spot and

many shows that sometimes it is hard to get

what it is all about!

through all of them in a week. It reminds me a lot like youtube scene.

HM: How did the first CarpetFest come about? EB: There were people talking on MP forums about having a get together for the Morelia family for years, but it never seemed to happen. The chondro people already had something called Chondro Fest years ago, and I thought that it was a great idea. Around the same time that MPR started, I talked to Owen about just making it happen and so, Carpet Fest was born.

We decided to put it on in Maryland, the Morelia capital of the US at the time. Howard Redding hosted it, and it wasn't until Owen got a house that we decided to move it to his place, and then I followed suit, and it's been at my home in PA ever since then.

The whole idea was to have people with a similar passion, get together from behind their computer, share some food, drinks, and knowledge. It was supposed to reignite your love for the hobby and the people in it.

HM: What has it been like seeing them take off in other parts of the country and now the world with the first UK Carpet Fest happening this year? EB: It is very humbling that Carpet Fest is now worldwide and if it brings a few people closer in this hobby, then the job is done.

HM: What would be your advice to someone who wants to get into breeding? EB: The best advice I could give would be this. Figure out what you like. Not what's hot at the moment, not what you can make a ton of money on, not what you think that you need to have to vend a show. Do what you love. Whatever gets you excited to be in your snake room. Do that, and you will see how happy you will be when you're in your snake room. I was really into West Papuan carpets and even though jungles were the hottest thing I liked the idea of doing to West Papuan carpets what breeders had done with jungle carpets.

I didn't worry about if people were into them or not, I was going to show them how awesome they are and if people didn't like them, I didn't care. I followed my own direction. When I started getting West Papuan carpets, there was hardly anyone that was into them. People may have had one or two, but there wasn't anyone with a big group of them. These days I would say they are catching up with jungles in popularity. I freaking love that species!!!

If you're going to start to breed a species, start small. Keep (insert species here) for a while. Learn about (insert species here) in your room and how it behaves in your room. We had Eugene Bassett on MPR, and the best thing that he ever taught me was to become a "student of the serpent" Paying attention to what the snake is telling you, not what the internet says. Trust me the snakes know what they want better then someone on Facebook does.

Start with a female and raise it for a year. Make sure that you are into what you're keeping. Once you have a year in then pick up a male. I worked with a few pairs when I first started trying to breed. I was able to pay attention to them very carefully and learn what made them tick. Take notes about any observations that you see. I would even tie it into the weather outside.

I got a few clutches and reinvested the money into another project. Once I knew that I was really into (insert species here), I mapped out my projects for the next ten years. I thought about what I would add each year and what pairings I would try each year. Of course, it didn't always work the way I wanted it to, but I always tried to have a backup plan. The last piece of advice I would give is to see your projects through.

The Wide World of Banded Water snakes By Chris Montross of Darkhorse herpetoculture

The Banded Water Snake (Nerodia fasciata ssp.) are a fascinatingly variable temperate and sub-tropical Colubrid native the lower coastal plains and river lowlands of the southeastern United States. Ranging from northeastern North Carolina, south throughout Florida, then west along the gulf coast to east Texas and north along the Mississippi River basin to the very southern parts of Illinois. Three subspecies are currently recognized. The Florida Banded Water Snake (N. f. pictiventris) which is restricted to peninsular Florida, north into the very southern portion of GA. The Southern Banded Water Snake (N. f. fasciata) that is found north and west of the Florida Banded from North Carolina to Mississippi following the lowlands of the coastal plain. The Broad-Banded Water Snake (N. f. confluens) makes up the western end of the range in the Mississippi RiverBasin and into east Texas. Intergrades between the subspecies are noted where they meet in Northern Florida and Southern Georgia, as well as east of Mobile Bay. Nerodia fasciata are also documented to hybridize with both N. clarkii and N. sipedon where they meet. In coastal, central, and southern Florida, N. c. compressicauda and N. f. Pictiventris seem to be the most commonly encountered hybrid across the range but some sections are not as well hunted as that area. I have encountered these hybrids in Southern Florida and in the panhandle. I hope to spend more time in the future trying to observe hybrids with N. sipedon which will be more difficult to differentiate due to such similar phenotypes. Despite their nasty reputation when encountered in the field, most bandeds calm down quite nicely in captivity if given desirable housing and captive born specimens are usually only as spunky as any other young colubrid. Some are downright friendly, while others can be a bit skittish and shy. But in time, they learn to associate their keepers with being fed and will come right to you in anticipation of receiving a tasty morsel. 39

Florida Banded Water Snake(N. f. pictiventris), possible anerytheristic. Seminole Co, FL

Southern Banded Water Snake (N. f. fasciata), f1 Escambia Co, FL

Broad-Banded Water Snake (N. f. confluens),Tangipahoa Parish,LA

Florida Banded Water N. f. pictiventris) f1 Dade Co, FL area

Feeding habits in the wild have been documented as consisting of a variety of fish, amphibians, and even crayfish have been documented. In captivity they typically take fish and frogs eagerly and can be switched over to rodents with little effort. I prefer to use hairless mice routinely in my juveniles and adults as it has been noted by hobbyists that species like Thamnophis and Heterodon have trouble digesting hair and can become impacted leading to death. With neonates, I try to switch them over as soon as possible. Some are more reluctant than others, which usually stems from how shy and flighty a particular litter or even individual is. I have had some litters take thawed, unscented, tease fed extra small pink mice for their first meals. Others can take months to switch over. It just seems to vary on how confident or shy they are. Cut fish from species not containing Thiaminase can be offered on deli lids and just cut to an appropriate size for the banded(s) to be offered. Vitamin supplements will be necessary anytime non-whole food items are being offered. Freezing fish and frogs prior to feeding for a period of time to kill parasites that they can vector to these snakes is important.

But unfortunately, live fish or frogs are sometimes necessary to initiate feeding in young or freshly wild caught snakes that are being stubborn. Using fresh food items can nearly guarantee parasite transfer, especially nematodes, that can be difficult to eradicate. Safe dewormers like Pancacur will not kill nematodes, Ivermectin must be used but only with very careful dosing. Acute death can and will occur with inappropriate dosing. Fortunately they have an indirect life cycle, so if you discontinue feeding fresh fish and frogs, they cannot continue to infest said snakes and the nematodes present will eventually die off. For me, switching my bandeds to rodents has many benefits. One, their stool is much less noxious than being fed fish. Second, rodents cannot transfer parasites to reptiles. Parasites of warm blooded mammals cannot survive in reptiles in case fresh killed rodents are needed to be used.

"I prefer to use hairless mice routinely in my juveniles and adults as it has been noted by hobbyists that species like Thamnophis and Heterodon have trouble digesting hair and can become impacted leading to death."

Thirdly, thawing and cutting up fish is nasty! Rodents provide a whole, complete meal and unless you are feeding whole fish and not filets, you will likely be missing out on some nutrients even when supplementing with appropriate liquids and powders. Some hobbyists feel rodents are too fatty for Nerodia however, this just isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t true. Feeding any snakes should be done based on that animal's current weight and breeding intentions. Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t feed just because "you" feed once a week. Feed the animals on a routine necessary to keep that animal healthy, not overweight or obese.

Broad-Banded Water Snake (N. f. confluens) Tangipahoa Parish, LA

VENTILATION, VENTILATION, VENTILATION! I cannot say this enough. Overall Nerodia, absolutely hate and will succumb to enclosures with poor ventilation. Picture in your mind chameleons, as with them, it took some trial and error to learn that cages with stuffy, stagnant air does allow them to thrive. Decades ago when I first tried to keep bandeds like my other colubrids (typical sweater boxes with a few holes on the sides stacked into homemade closed racks) I failed not knowing exactly why at the time. Working with them a time or two since, taught me that they can be kept successfully when the right effort and housing is employed. In recent years, when I decided I wanted to put a concerted effort into long term breeding efforts with Nerodia (N. fasciata more specifically) I knew I had to choose my caging appropriately and plan my husbandry wisely. Taking some insight from the suboc crowd with reference to using kiln dried pine shavings, improved ventilation and moving air in the room to reduce air stagnancy, I've found a general protocol that seems to yield success.

Always be aware of the species of fish you are feeding! If you consistently use fish or just as occasional treats, many species of commonly available fish are unsafe for reptiles like goldfish and rosy reds. Online, partial lists of safe/unsafe fish can be found. The Thamnophis hobbyists usually keep a decent list floating around. But these lists are never very complete compared to the variety of species one can purchase at a store or collect to feed. So be wary and learn a bit about identifying fish or know someone who can.

An example of the authors' set ups.

As with all husbandry, there is always room for improvement and I tweak my husbandry when I feel changes are needed. Although glass aquariums with screened lids provide excellent ventilation for Nerodia keeping in general, I don't and won't use them due to their heaviness and potential for breaking. I prefer locking tubs like Sterilite storage bins. These are not secure enough for species like kings and ratsnakes, but they do quite well for bandeds and the like. Remember, a significant effort into drilling holes into the bins to maximize air flow is important. I will make templates with cardboard to aid me in making patterned holes that will not compromise the integrity of the bin sides. Adults are maintained in 64 to 106 quart bins as pairs and trios. Younger animals are housed in 7 quart and up tubs depending on the size of the group and individuals. Using these bins makes it easy to carry them out to dump and disinfect due to their light weight.

The decent level of opacity of these bins allows some viewing of animals through the sides. A layer of kiln dried pine shavings for substrate, various hides of appropriate size, a water receptacle big enough for them to soak in, and branches to allow climbing, round out a simple to maintain yet a comforting environment for the occupants. I utilize ambient room temperature for my collection. A temperature range from 76F84F is typically where I keep mine. I open the room window as often as possible and keep it open through the warm months. A small fan driven space heater is used to maintain adequate temps during the cool months. Using water receptacles that cannot be tipped over is ideal. Dampened substrate will create an overall damp environment and should be cleaned up promptly.

Adults are maintained in 64 to 106 quart bins as pairs and trios. Younger animals are housed in 7 quart and up tubs depending on the size of the group and individuals. Using these bins makes it easy to carry them out to dump and disinfect due to their light weight. Breeding bandeds is very similar to other temperate colubrids. A period of cooling/dormancy to stimulate ovulation is typically required. I have had success with brumation times as short as 3 weeks at 58F with N. f. pictiventris. Pairings from more southerly localities likely require shorter brumation times than those from colder climates.

"Although huge litters are recorded in many species of Nerodia, most of my litters are between 8 to 14 young with only one so far having the personal record of 20."

Gestation is around 4 months but can vary based on the temperatures the female is maintainedÂ at. Since I cohabitate my Nerodia, I usually don't see the actual breeding or they do it on and off over a several week period, so nailing down an actual breeding date can be tough. Body weight and overall health is obviously a factor in successful reproduction. I strive to maintain lean, naturally built animals and choose to slowly raise my offspring into adulthood. Fat babies lead to fat adults and obesity will shorten their lifespans by compromising liver function along with plenty of other complications. It typically takes me 4 years to raise up a neonate to breeding age, especially with females. I am in no rush, I do this for myself, so I don't need them to grow up and pop out babies ASAP. I principally retain young to have insurance stock from the various localities I work with to be prepared for when the founder animals die. Although huge litters are recorded in many species of Nerodia, most of my litters are between 8 to 14 young with only one so far having the personal record of 20. Those size litters are ideal to me, enough to keep some, surplus some, but not too many to overwhelm myself.

Broadbanded Watersnake (Nerodia fasciata confluens) Wayne County, Missouri. Photo by Peter Paplanus

Mature males and young males, seem to be more often than not programmed to eat less. This is likely due to a smaller maturation size. Even neonates with gluttonous appetites, eventually slow down to eating every 3-4 weeks as most of my breeder males do. They just ignore feeding opportunities and don't appear to utilize the nutrients the same way as their female littermates that are programmed to grow quickly so the next generation can be made. Housing in groups (cohabbing) is commonly practiced with Nerodia fanciers, much like those that keep Thamnophis species. I keep breeding pairs and trios together year round, only downsizing their caging during cooling to small sweater boxes that fit conveniently in my cooling refrigerator. My litters are also kept and raised together and only separate when gluttonous eaters begin out sizing the rest in their group. I then raise my holdback pairs or small groups to adulthood until decisions are made for breeding intentions.

Florida Banded Water Snake (N. f. pictiventris) f1 Dixie Co, FL

Broad-Banded Water Snake (N.f.confluens) Brazoria Co, TX

Feeding individually by way of long tweezers, in most cases, is my preferred method. I offer food items on lids or similar flat surfaces for groups of young, especially when feeding chopped fish. But I go back through each animal afterwards to assure who has eaten and how much. This is to ensure everyone is thriving as desired. One of my big fascinations with this species is the naturally occurring variability across their range and within local populations. Historically, little effort has been given to them in captivity and as a result very little is understood in regards to phenotype inheritance and ontogenetic change into adulthood. Most young will change how they look from their newborn stage to the time they are mature. I find it no different than predicting neonate red rats' eventual qualities. Since some adults can be so drastically different, knowing lineage phenotype is incredibly helpful in evaluating for their eventual maturation look. With so little true breeding efforts and for so few duration of generations, we have so much to learn and understand about this process in this group. My main goal with keeping so many locality groups across the range is to simply understand phenotypic variation and inheritance, as well as ontogenetic changes. S

Sure there is unnatural selection in captive pairings but I keep back examples of all variances within a litter to observe change as they grow and allow pairings in the future to give insight into this interesting world of breeding Nerodia.

Give it time, someone will decide that Nerodia fasciata taxonomy needs to be changed and many captive animals will suddenly be hybrids, mutts or just unknowns because their origins have not been tracked.Â

They breed true like any other pairing. Some offspring will look like each parent and the others will be a gradual mix between the two. Other than an old amelanistic line from a few decades ago of Florida stock, I have yet to be made aware of any true recessive phenotypic traits within these amazingly variable snakes. I am always testing new color forms with locality stock to try and understand how they can be so variable and unique within the colubrid world.

The future is bright with these snakes. There is so much to learn and understand about them with captive breeding efforts that don't seem to be able to be learned from field research. Thanks to all my fellow Nerodia-philes for the constant experience sharing, it is so valuable...got Nerodia?

Seemingly new, one-of-a-kindÂ animals pop up all the time but few make it to solid breeding programs to continue their token looks, nor are they being bred back to stock from the same habitat or region.

See Nerodia & More by following @darkhorseherp on Facebook and IG!

Florida Banded Water Snake (N. f. pictiventris) Dixie Co, FL

Florida Banded Water Snake (N. f. pictiventris) f1 Dixie Co, FL

Tanks vs Tubs

THE BIG DEBATE HERP SET-UP SHOWDOWN

BY ASHLEY HAUDE WITH METHOD NOIR EXOTICS LLC 46

It is a Friday night on the football field, on one side Team Tanks and the other Team Tubs. They stare each other down, ready to tackle a with predator-like intensity. Who will win? The social media pot-stirrers might be sad to discover that both tanks and tubs can be used for the animalâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s benefit! It all comes down to the keeper being honest with themselves and using common sense. There are poor tank setups and poor tub setups. But enough caveats, on to tanks and tubs (plus an even better bonus option).

Tanks Cons Pros - Visually appealing - Easily accessible with front access doors or mesh tops - Pre-made ventilation, little to no modification needed - Easily purchased on Amazon or pet stores.

- Heavy - Expensive - Often not stackable so shelving is necessary - Sometimes needing to be modified to get proper humidity - For reptiles clear sides at every angle can be, potentially, more stressful because glass does not provide understandable separation from the inside and outside world. - Plastic moldings with crevices can make for difficult cleaning. - Glass can crack and shatter.

On the downside, tanks can cost ten times more than tub setups. Price alone should not be the deciding factor when thinking of adding another living being to the family but it is something to keep in mind in your decision on herp housing Glass tanks in particular are quite heavy even before adding any decor. Glass tanks are better suited with shelves rather than stacking; Exo Terras ventilate on the top and stacking glass/acrylic enclosures can invite instability with slippery surfaces. Dart frogs like this Dendrobates tinctorius azureus thrive in glass tank vivaria

In this instance Iâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;m referring to tanks as glass or acrylic enclosures; for crested geckos this would include Exo Terra style as well as converted 20 gallon longs (or similar). Tanks are an obvious choice for some herps because they are prevalent and proven within the pet industry. Little to no modification is necessary and they are usually a one-and-done option. Tanks provide easy viewing of the animal and can be an artful addition to the home. Both bioactive (real plants, soil, cleanup crew, UVB) and sterile setups (paper towel bottom, fake plants, UVB can be used) work wonderfully with tanks.

The keeper needs to take into account Exo Terras generally need more misting because of the large ventilation area on top. Either limiting the airflow or more frequent misting can mitigate this issue.

"Tanks are an obvious choice for some herps because they are prevalent and proven within the pet industry."

UVB is easily added to the Exo Terra style tanks with mesh tops. However, acrylic and converted aquarium style set ups are more difficult to use with lamps because the glass/acrylic will not let most, if not any, of the UVB through.

Tubs Pros - Inexpensive - Can be purchased at a hardware or home store - Hold humidity well - Large interior space - Easy to modify - Safer with no glass to shatter - Potential to help the animal feel safer with opaque sides - Easy to clean with smooth, rounded corners.

Cons - Ugly - No clear front/sides for viewing, - Necessary modification from standard form - Can hold too much humidity if not properly ventilated.

There are a number of different ways to use tubs from ones placed vertically similar to a converted 20 gallon tank, a snake rack style setup, or to stacked tubs using regular lids. Tubs get a bad rap because, to the human ego, they can be thought of as cheaping out – they are inexpensive and not necessarily something that displays the animal in a beautiful way. To the animal though, none of that matters. Size, functionality, and proper husbandry are important factors animal well being. One of the upsides of tubs is the ease of modification. Contrary to common internet-isms, tubs can be both sterile and bioactive. If you need more ventilation or UVB access, you can easily cut a hole in a tub or lid to add vents or mesh, unlike glass and acrylic. Tubs can be used in standard fashion with a lid, stacked, or even turned on one end to resemble a 20 gallon long setup. The do-it-yourself type hobbyist can benefit from buying or making a snake-style rack with large tubs for space savings and ease of access. Stacking tubs individually works in the same way, but when you have a lot of them, the stacking/unstacking and lid removal can be a large waste of time.

Tubs make modification easy though they may not be as pretty.

Tubs are definitely not as pretty as tanks but they can potentially provide more security for the animal with the opaque sides. One of the other downsides is that without proper modification tubs can hold too much humidity and create a moldy environment. This goes hand-inhand with tanks notoriously not holding enough humidity – the responsibility falls on the keeper to mist more/less and add more/less ventilation. In the end, while tubs provide an undeniably beneficial environment for the animal and are inexpensive, many keepers still feel they take away from the point of having these beautiful creatures and environments within the home. Not convinced that tanks nor tubs are the perfect option – keep reading.

"Tubs get a bad rap because, to the human ego, they can be thought of as cheaping out"

PVC Pros - Far lighter than glass tanks - Opaque sides to add security for the animal - Elegant design - Stackable - Safer without glass to shatter - Hold humidity and temperatures well with thick walls - Pre-made ventilation/doors - Uniform look.

Cons - Usually not available at local stores (reptile expos aside) - Shipping can be expensive for fully built cages. -Â Flat pack shipping is cheaper, but requires a bit of time and tools to assemble.

But wait! Tubs and tanks are not the only options?

PVC enclosures are rising in popularity because of their size for the weight and price, plus increasing availability from quality manufacturers. A savvy reptile parent can easily find and order one of the many available PVC enclosures from high quality manufacturers. They are less money for the size than glass/acrylic tanks but shipping the fully built cages can also negate that savings. A great option to avoid shipping is buy at local reptile shows and, honestly, the same goes for tanks if that is the direction you want to go. The look, utility, and animal security of PVC enclosures outweighs most of the small negatives. As with all other options, bioactive and sterile environments are welcomed with these enclosures. Like quality furniture, these enclosures can be a beautiful part of the home while benefiting both the animal and keeper.

Get in touch with Ashley at @methodnoirexoticsllc on IG!

PVC set ups also work well for a large spectrum of species from desert dwellers to tropical forest species.

Sleek, linear profiles make for a nice uniform herp room!

Morelia Spotlight: "Bullwinkle" 50% IJ Jag By Eric Burke Bullwinkle at 2.5 years old

Sire to Bullwinkle, Coastal Jag

Dam to Bullwinkle, WC IJ

Dam to SOB, Tripod, WC x GQ IJ

Son of Bullwinkle, 75% IJ Jag

When I first started looking heavily into carpet pythons back in 2007, I stumbled upon a picture of a carpet python that blew my mind. He was so clean with a reduced pattern and fantastic color. I am sure if you have ever googled carpet pythons you too would have come across this picture as well. The snake's name was Bullwinkle. Anthony Capponetto from AC reptiles produced him. In 2004, Anthony brought in one of the first Papuan carpet pythons to be imported into the US. She was old, ugly and scarred. He bred her to his GQ (Gary Quirk line of Papuan carpet pythons) male and produced a clutch. One of the standouts from that clutch had a "silver" look to it and would be the start of his "silver" or blue carpet python project. The following year he bred that beat up '04 female to his original jag that he imported to the US from Sweden. There was a clutch of about six eggs, 3 of which where IJ jags. The reason he was named Bullwinkle was that his head stamp looked like the cartoon character of the same name. The project was kicked up a notch when he bred Bullwinkle to his GQ female and produced 75% IJ jags. The carpet called the S.O.B. (son of Bullwinkle) was produced from this pairing. These days you don't see too many people breeding IJ jags anymore but back in those years, jags were bred to anything and everything that produced some fantastic animals and is the founding stock of a lot of the animals we work with today.

Next Issue... - Diamondback Terrapins! - Product Review!

- The Journey to 1,000 - Baird's Ratsnakes! Hours

AND MORE!

Thanks to all our contributors for helping make this issue possible! More importantly thank YOU, the reader! Please be sure to follow us on Facebook and Instagram (@herpetoculturemagazine) We hope you enjoyed it!Justin & Billy