Herpetoculture Magazine Issue 4 - Feb. 2020

Issue 4 - February 2020

erpetoculture

agazine

The Top 5 Spicy Scorpions Industry Spotlight: Matt Minetola of Philly Herpetoculture Olive Pythons with dennis mcnamara!

Herping Uganda with Daniel Wakefield

The Journey to 1,000 Hours: Apprenticeship with venomous.

Varanus intelligence: The Lizard that looks back at you

This Issue...

Pg. 2

- Editor's Note

Pg. 3

-

Pg. 4

- Product Review: Wyze

Cover Photo by Daniel Wakefield of Wakefield Wildlife!

Contributors

Cam Pan Pg. 6

-

Herping Uganda

- Varanus Intelligence

Pg. 13

By Brittany Carruth

- Olive Pythons

Pg. 16

with Dennis Mcnamara

- Top 5 spicy

Pg. 21

scorpions by Phil wolf

- Industry spotlight:

Pg. 27

Matt Minetola of Philly Herp

- Journey to 1,000 Hours

Pg. 34

by Paul McIntyre

Pg. 37

- Herp Book Review:

How Snakes Work Pg. 38

- Morelia Spotlight:

The Jaguar

Pg. 39 Pg. 40

- Herp Room Jams - Coming up in HM...

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Editor's Note

2020 is here and we are already 4 issues in! Justin and I have definitely been humbled by the response we have received from the magazine so far. The support has been incredible from the hobby.

New Year, same formula. We are making this magazine for you guys. So please do not hesitate to reach out and tell us what content you want to see. We are doing our best to try to source out diverse content to give you guys as much information as we can. This hobby is amazing and we want to continue to bring content to you on animals we don’t see in the hobby that often. Maybe the next article you read will be on the species you decide to dive head first into!

With that being said, sit back, relax and enjoy issue #4!

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Justin Smith & Billy Hunt Editors-inChief

Contributors

Justin Smith Editor @palmettocoastexotics

Billy Hunt Editor @uwabamireptiles

Phil Wolf Contributor @knobtails.ig

Matt Minetola Contributor @phillyherpetoculture

Daniel Wakefield Contributor/Cover Shot @wakefieldwildlife

Dennis McNamara Contributor @vbdennis

Paul McIntyre Contributor @predatorparkreptiles

Brittany Carruth Contributor @hopeducation_network

Riley Jimison Contributor @rileysreptiless 3

Product Review

Wyze Cam Pan When discussing the security of your reptile room, building, or even just your home, surveillance cameras eventually come up. The idea of setting up cameras and being able to monitor them can seem daunting, but with todays technology it is as simple as a few easy steps. This is where WYZE Cam dominates the market.

WYZE Cam has a variety of household surveillance camera products, but for the sake of this review I am discussing the WYZE Cam Pan 1080P camera. It has a very sleek and simple design making it easy to disappear into your room of choice. With only the power cable to navigate this camera is very discreet and unobtrusive. You plug it in, press a button on the bottom of the unit, type in your Wifi access, and using the WYZE App you simply scan the provided QR code in front of the camera lens.

That’s it.

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I currently run two of these units in my snake room. One is for the general room layout observation. I can put my thermometer in view of the camera and ensure the climate is where I like it remotely. I can also see if a snake were to escape its enclosure or if someone were to break in and steal anything. The picture quality is fantastic, and I can hear and speak back and forth through the camera as needed as well. This also makes for some fun prank potential.

With the app you can monitor multiple cameras and set up notification settings, smoke detector alarms, motion detection, person detection, and many more other preferences. This camera also has access to cloud storage and can carry micro SD card memory as well. Ultimately the product brings peace of mind and another perspective for you to observe your animals without bothering them.

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The second camera I currently have set up inside one of my adult female carpet python enclosures. I intend on observing her behavior during this breeding season as well as watching her lay her clutch. With any luck she will also be allowed to maternally incubate her eggs should she produce. I hope to observe any specific maternally driven behaviors using this camera in my attempt to better understand the incubation process of these pythons. The camera is small enough and the cable is flat enough to fit into the corner of her enclosure and view the entire space without disturbing the snake.

Overall, I give the WYZE Cam Pan 1080P a 4.5 out of 5 rating. The only thing that is less than perfect is the noise the camera creates when swiveling back and forth. It is very minimal, but when working in the snake room and the camera is following me around non-stop, it sounds as if the camera is working a lot and makes just enough noise of the gears turning to catch my attention. I tend to turn the camera off if I plan on working in the snake room for any length of time for this reason. Otherwise, it has everything that I wanted in a camera for my snake room and I highly recommend them for their quality and ease of use.

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Herping Uganda

With Daniel Wakefield

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Of wakefield wildlife

I’ve dreamed of Africa ever since I was a small child. The landscapes, the charismatic wildlife, and especially the reptiles loomed large in my imagination. The land of killer crocodiles, incredible venomous snakes, and the “big five” fascinated me. Going there seemed like a remote possibility, but I held on to the hope of one day visiting this amazing continent.

When the opportunity to go to Uganda with a friend of mine appeared, I cautiously began researching the possibility but tried not to get my hopes up. The opportunity to search for species like the Gaboon Viper seemed like a dream too good to be true. But the more I researched, the more it looked like it could work. I got some local guide recommendations from herpers who had been there before, got in touch with one, and started planning for what I hoped would be the trip of a lifetime.

The months between buying my plane ticket and heading to the airport seemed like forever, but the day finally arrived and I was off on my first trip outside North America. Due to the time change, we left on a Saturday evening (Miami time) and arrived early on Monday morning (Uganda time).

I only got 3 or 4 hours of sleep over those two nights combined and felt completely exhausted on arrival, but we got right to herping, fueled by adrenaline. We hiked around some agricultural areas and ventured into a small patch of rainforest, but day one yielded only a couple of small lizards.

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Forest Cobra (Naja subfulva)

Day two arrived and the weather seemed even better than the day before. Since it was the rainy season, sunshine was scarce and any sun peeking through the clouds might encourage reptiles to bask. We started the day in another patch of rainforest and then transitioned into more agricultural land.

Before long we spotted our first snake, one of the species I least expected to see on this trip: a Forest Twig Snake (Thelatornis kirtlandii). It is a rear-fanged, highly venomous colubrid possessing a potent hemotoxic venom. Its impressive camouflage made it nearly impossible to see until it was right in front of me and its threat display was amazing, inflating its neck to reveal bright skin between its scales. Truly an incredible serpent to behold.

That find was followed up quickly with one of our top targets of the trip: a 6+ foot long Forest Cobra (Naja subfulva)! It was the first wild cobra I’ve ever seen and it did not disappoint. Seeing it stand up and look at us was intimidating and exhilarating all at the same time. It is one of the largest species of cobra in the world and possesses a dangerously neurotoxic venom, so needless to say, we were quite careful around this snake.

Forest Twig Snake Thelatornis kirtlandii

"Seeing it stand up and look at us was intimidating and exhilarating all at the same time. It is one of the largest species of cobra in the world and possesses a dangerously neurotoxic venom"

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Jameson's Mamba - Dendroaspis jamesoni

Day three dawned and while we were ecstatic with the previous day’s finds, I was still eager to find some vipers. I’ve always been a viper guy, and this area’s vipers are (in my opinion) second to none.

The day began with a thunderstorm, so we waited for it to stop and then hunted an open area that dried up faster. That proved to be a good decision because we started the day with a Jameson’s Mamba (Dendroaspis jamesoni). Unfortunately, it was in shed, but it was still incredible to see this highly venomous elapid in the wild. After taking some photos, we released the mamba and made our way to another area and a new patch of rainforest.

Rough-Scaled Bush Viper- Atheris hispida

The sun decided to make a lengthy appearance by this time which really began to warm things up, increasing our hope that we would see more snakes out basking. We systematically worked our way through the dense forest, scouring the forest floor and the branches above for different viper species.

Before long we were rewarded with our first viper of the trip 9 feet up in a tree: a Rough-scaled Bush Viper (Atheris hispida)! This is truly one of the rarest viper species in the world and seeing one in situ in the wild was mind-blowing. Not only does this species have unique scalation, it also feeds on snails, an unusual diet for a viper. This find really got us excited and increased our 9 anticipation for what the next few days might hold.

The next day started with another great find and top target of the trip: a Variable Bush Viper (Atheris squamigera). I’ve seen this species in zoos before and even interacted with one from a private collection, but seeing one in the wild was a real treat. They are very similar to the Rough-scaled Bush Viper, but larger and stockier and also have a larger range. They have a more generalist diet and so are much easier to keep in captivity. While photographing the “squam,” one of our guides called me to come see what he had found. Not knowing what to expect, but hoping for the best, I ran up to him and he took me to where he had seen a snake. But when we got there, it was gone.

What snake was it? Though this guide’s English wasn’t great, he knew all of the local snakes’ Latin names, and I heard him say the word “gabonica.” My heart began racing like nothing else. We scoured the bushes and undergrowth, desperate to catch a glimpse of the almost mythical serpent. We couldn’t see it anywhere, but unwilling to give up, the guide ventured into an incredibly dense thicket with nothing but a machete and snake tongs. After several tense minutes (though it seemed much longer than that), I heard him yelling something out of the thicket, and our second guide (who was with me) translated, “He is seeing it!” Throwing caution to the wind, I ventured in myself and struggled with all the thick grasses and vines in my way….but nothing would stop me.

I finally made it to where the guide was, but still couldn’t see anything. He pointed with the tongs and my eyes went down in that direction, but I still could see nothing besides a pile of dried grass. But in a mere moment, a slightly exposed coil materialized before my eyes. Right there in front of me was my number one bucket list snake in the world, a massive Gaboon Viper (Bitis gabonica)!

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Variable Bush Viper- Atheris squamigera

Gaboon Viper - Bitis gabonica

Carefully using tools, we moved some of the grasses and exposed the snake, which lay motionless the entire time. I couldn’t believe the size of this snake. Its head was bigger than my fist and its mid-body was the size of my calf, if not bigger. I simply sat there in disbelief. Although many people keeping Gaboon Vipers prefer the West African species due to the larger nose horns, the East African species is my Blanding's Tree Snake - Toxicodryas blandingii favorite due to its double eye stripe.

Getting to spend some time observing and photographing this snake in the wild was a dream come true for me. While I photographed it, it was almost completely motionless, but I was aware that it was closely watching me the entire time. It was truly awesome to share space with this animal.

The next couple of days were filled with a lot of hiking and very little to show for it.

We explored some new areas but managed to only turn up one additional snake, a juvenile Blanding’s Tree Snake (Toxicodryas blandingii). This is a mildly venomous, rearfanged colubrid, although our field guide warned that its venom possesses neurotoxic qualities. We decided to play it safe and avoid getting bitten by this snake.

The following day we drove to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, one of the last remaining strongholds of the endangered Gaboon Viper - Bitis gabonica Mountain Gorilla. We slept overnight in a tented safari lodge and rose with the sun to eat breakfast and get briefed for our gorilla trekking experience. While some treks take hours to find the particular gorilla family you are tracking, we found ours within 10 minutes of starting the hike! Permits only allow you to spend one hour with the gorilla family, but it was an incredible hour.

We saw multiple members of the gorilla family, including several females and youngsters as well as the dominant male silverback.

A young Mountain Gorilla

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Rhino Viper - Bitis nasicornis

If you ever have the chance to do this, I highly recommend it. Though it isn’t cheap, it is reassuring to know that a good portion of the cost goes to ongoing conservation efforts with the gorillas.

I’ve been on the herpetoculture side of things and I love keeping and breeding reptiles in captivity.

It is truly exciting to watch reptiles and amphibians thrive, breed, and hatch under our care. But to me, nothing beats seeing the animals we love in their natural habitat. I’ll always enjoy seeing a Gaboon Viper no matter where it is, but nothing will ever compare to crouching down in that steamy, dense thicket in Uganda and seeing a wild one staring back at me.

See more of Daniel's trip on his instagram and facebook page @wakefieldwildlife.

Also see videos from this trip on his youtube channel of the same name!

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"I’ll always enjoy seeing a Gaboon Viper no matter where it is, but nothing will ever compare to crouching down in that steamy, dense thicket in Uganda and seeing a wild one staring back at me."

W

Varanus Intelligence: The Lizard That Looks Back at You

By Brittany Carruth

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V. Albigularis Microtis : Diesel, making eye contact

In October of 2009 a documentary aired on PBS called “Nova, Lizard Kings”. It was the statement describing that “when you look a monitor lizard in the eye, that they are looking at back you”; Dr. Eric Pianka made during the special that sparked my fascination with the entire varanus genus. Testing the theory multiple times with my collection of varanus at home, as well as in zoological establishments confirms Dr. Pianka is right, they are always looking back. But what importance does knowing about these animals intelligence serve us within captive keeping?

Often, I feel something that is overlooked when keeping Varanus is the challenges and obstacles these animals have to overcome frequently in the wild. From using their prehensile tails to hold on and lunge for food to using their digits for foraging insect larvae out of branches, the amount of smarts it takes to solve these puzzles in the wild is breathtaking.

Field herpetologists, captive keepers, and zoos have been testing the true capability of lizard intelligence for nearly four decades now and their studies have shown that Varanus have the ability to differentiate between colors, sounds, and numbers.

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These studies performed are practices I’ve trialed and tested on a variety of my own large lizards.

Hoot, my varanus salvator - macromaculatus bivittatus cross donated to our organization by Vital Exotics, has been our organizations' main guinea pig since the passing of our Varanus Exanthematicus, Jasper.

Hoot has proven her smarts by correctly identifying color for food by choosing the correct target pole.

She has also figured out the amount of prey items she receives every meal and will retreat back into her enclosure once the fourth prey item has been gobbled up. Recently I’ve begun a new enrichment exercise similar to what many crocodilian keepers are performing --- hand signals.

This is something we have been working on for a little over 3 months and have had slow success, but success nonetheless! With this being new to her and myself, we are expecting a long road ahead of us, but are excited for the journey and progress. It is rewarding being one of the first varanus keepers stateside trialing out hand signal response with the smartest genus of lizard In the world. I will say it is certainly something that requires patience and a full understanding of large lizard behaviors along with their body language.

Taking in all I said and understanding the true ingenious these animals have and converting it into their captive care, we should be able to come to the agreement that keeping these reptiles in empty enclosures with minimal decor is somewhat tragic and borderline abusive. As owners of animals capable of problem solving; I feel the least we can do is provide some sort of mental stimulation in their daily lives. There is a variety of methods that can be used to help, not only Varanus; but any reptiles species stay mentally sharp. Whether that be through target training, creating food enrichment tools, offering new smells frequently such as leaf litter, or even adding new branches to explore on a weekly basis are good ideas to help keep our captive reptile’s brain active and alert.

As the years go on we are discovering that the brain capacity in reptiles is vastly larger than we originally thought. The ability Varanus have to identify their owners is showing us that these animals aren’t as primitive as we first anticipated. Some snake species, Varanus, and crocodilians have gone as far as recognizing their owners based on sound, sight, and smell. With these behaviors noted it’s beginning to seem as if these reptiles can in fact have a bond with their human caretakers -- which is a first in our world of herpetoculture.

Follow Brittany Carruth @hopeducation_network

V. Salvator: Hoot, Target Training Ayiah: V. Indicus, new smells in the cage

Hoot: V Salvator, being curious

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Olive Pythons

By Dennis McNamara 16

"I have had a lot of species of snakes and have kept and keep other Liasis as well, but these are different. Their sleek look and small, smooth scales set them apart from other pythons."

In 1998 I attended the National Reptile Breeders Expo in Orlando. My friend, Chris, and I walked around the show and entered the back room and found Dave and Tracy Barker’s table. On that table they had a variety of animals that were incredible, but one pair stood out. That pair of olive pythons was out of my price range, but were able to be afforded by Chris. We were roommates at the time so I did get to watch them grow up and knew they would be part of my personal collection at some point in time.

I keep them just like I keep most of my other pythons. When they are small, I've kept them in 41 qt boxes in a rack with paper and a water bowl. As they grow, I move them up to vision boa tubs, 54”x36”x18” and 72”x36”x18” vision cages.

Fast forward about 10 years and a pair of olive pythons showed up on faunaclassifieds. This time I was able to actually purchase them. They were yearlings, the female was from Jeff Hartwig and the male was acquired from Outback Reptiles. That started my love for the species.

They do like to cruise around and appreciate the space if you offer it to them. They will climb and will take advantage of hide boxes as well. I personally use thicker branches and big Rubbermaid totes with a hole cut in the lid for them. They will sit on the lids as well as hide in the totes.

I have had a lot of species of snakes and have kept and keep other Liasis as well, but these are different. Their sleek look and small, smooth scales set them apart from other pythons. In my opinion and experience, from birth to adulthood, they are the most docile of the Liasis. Babies are fairly tractable right out of the egg. As they grow into their adult size of 9 to 13 feet, they can acquire a feeding response that will keep you on your toes, but as long as they realize food isn’t being offered, they are usually ok.

These totes also come in handy as you can just slide a water bowl over the hole in the lid when you want to clean the cage and not have to handle them if you don’t need to. I find that easier for me as I have a fairly sizable collection and anything that cuts down on time is good in my book!

I offer them a decent sized water bowl to drink from, but have never observed one trying to soak. I don’t keep them humid so the fact that they don’t soak and spill water everywhere is helpful.

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I use unprinted paper I purchase at U-Haul as well as aspen shavings for them as substrate. I rotate these items depending on the time of year so I can tell what is happening better when I put them together for breeding. I also provide varying temperatures depending on the time of year.

I keep my ambient temps at between 76-82F during the day from November-late February. I add a hotspot of 90+ in February for the female, this is helpful if she is gravid. I have had her move her hide box around the cage to place it under the light so she can get hotter. I have never had another species do that, but she has done it on multiple occasions. Once summer comes around my ambient temperatures will go to 82-87F. If the female has already laid eggs, I will take the hotspot away as it isn’t used and doesn’t appear to be necessary at that time.

"I take a very common sense approach to keeping snakes. There are lots of things I want and do that aren’t always needed, so I try to adjust to them, not me. " A little side note, I take a very common sense approach to keeping snakes. If I watch them and they aren’t using something and they seem ok, I will adjust over time to give them what they actually seem to need.

There are lots of things I want and do that aren’t always needed, so I try to adjust to them, not me. If you watch your snakes, they tell you what you need to know. This will come up again when we talk about food.

I don’t go out of my way to provide night time drops, if they happen, then I let them happen. In the winter my room can get down into the upper 60’s at night. This helps with breeding and is no issue if temps go back up during the day. I actually have my young animals in the same room and let them do the same thing. I think this goes along with getting them into a cycle and really makes things work when you start trying to breed animals.

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The way I go about breeding is just by putting the male into the female’s cage in December and leaving them together until I think the female is gravid. I used to put animals together for 3-day cycles and then separate them for 3 days. Now I usually just put them together and leave them until the female looks gravid. One thing I do is if I put them together and an animals is “running” from the other, I will separate and try again in a week or two. If I put them together and see breeding, I will leave them together until I see them on opposite sides of the cage on a consistent basis.

Again, watching your animals will tell you what you need to know. Once the female is basking consistently then things are going the right way. I will keep the male in with the female until she laid eggs with no issue. There are people out there that have had females eat males, so know your animals! Once the female lays eggs, I pull them, weigh them, take a picture with my daughter if possible, set them up in a box with light crate on the bottom and a water bowl and then put them in an 87-degree incubator for about 65-80 days.

Clutch size for me has been between 11 and 14 eggs.

Now that we have eggs, we can talk about feeding from birth until breeding age. Some of the babies will start out right away on thawed fuzzies or hoppers, some will want live rat fuzzies, and some will hold out for quail. I have had some of each and have had to do scenting to get a few to switch over. The majority will go to rodents, but there seems to always be one or two that want day old quail instead. As babies I just want them to eat, so I get a meal in them weekly to get them going. I have had some go up to 3 months without a meal and then kick in and take off.

I like to feed every 7-10 days for the first year or so and then I will move back to about every 14 days. Life can get in the way so they will have a few weeks of fasting here and there and it doesn’t seem to bother snakes, in fact, I think its good for them. Once the snakes are reaching medium rat sized meals, I start to slow down a bit. Then I go into more of an adult regimen. I like to feed a decent sized meal (XL rat or 2) every 3-4 weeks from January-April, then I will feed every 7-10 days in May and June (usually after egg laying), then I do a monthly feed for July and August and then I offer big meals (XL rats) every 7-10 days from Late August until about Thanksgiving.

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This fall feeding schedule can vary as I mainly go by the activity of the girls. If I come in the room and they are moving, I feed them that night or the next day. If I feed them a single item and they are still looking around, I feed them another one.

This is the time of plenty, so I try to let them get as much food in there as possible for this couple of months.

This really seems to help get girls ready for action, which coincides with when I am introducing animals for breeding so it gets us all on schedule. The meals you offer in January and February can help with ovulation from my experience so I try to make sure to get them in after I witness copulation. Once the animals are not interested in food, I just leave them alone and let them do their thing.

I think that Olive pythons are great captives, especially for people wanting a snake with size. My adults are currently about 9 feet and are almost 12 years old. I didn’t get a first clutch out of them until they were 8, but all of that food and work was worth it.

They are deliberate and interesting animals to interact with as long as they don’t have food on their mind. I would recommend them to anyone looking for an intelligent, active python that is a bit different from what you have probably kept in the past.

Follow Dennis on Instgram @vbdennis 20

p o T eTh

y c i p S 5

r o cS

s n ip o

By Phil Wolf

Keeping hot scorpions can be unique, and rewarding; so long as safety parameters are in place, and respect is given.

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If you’re into reptiles and amphibians, there’s a good chance you like bugs too. As the herpetoculture lifestyle flourishes in the 21st century, reptile and amphibian keepers grow a fondness for weird, strange, and unique animals, primarily invertebrates.

Over the past few decades, inverts have been the side project of many a herp keeper. Tarantulas, Centipedes, and Scorpions can now be found at almost every exotic pet shop and reptile show, and for good reason. They’re small, hearty, and don’t take up too much space. For the same cost and space of a modern vivarium, a keeper can have several inverts housed in appropriately sized deli cups.

Species like, Emperor (Pandinus imperator) and Desert-Hairy (Hadrurus arizonensis) scorpions are great species to start with.

Popularity has marked them as “beginner” scorpions, and for good reason. They’re easy to keep, large and impressive looking, and have a relatively mild venomous sting (similar to that of a honey bee). But let’s face it, they’re boring and too commonly seen.

As herpers grow in experience and learn more about their exotic pets, the desire for a rarer or perhaps more difficult species to keep, comes to mind. And in the case of Scorpions, this comes hard and fast!

Of the approximate 1,750 species of scorpion worldwide, all of them have a venomous sting. But only 25-30 are potentially dangerous to humans. These highly venomous species are commonly known as “Hott” scorpions. Typically, Hott scorpions are members of the family Buthidae.

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This is the largest family of scorpions, with over 800 species described. And of course, those 25-30 Hotts are oftentimes the most desirable by invert-enthusiasts, as well as frequently seen in the exotic pet trade.

This doesn’t mean Hott scorpions are for everyone. It takes a steady hand, and meticulous protocols to keep Hott scorpions.

One slight mistake could cost the keeper his life. Special precautions must be taken when keeping Hott scorpions. Tools such as, rubber tipped tongs, hemostats, and doubled up containers, must be implemented. Scorpions lack the ability to climb smooth surfaces. But their speed and agility allow them to perform parkour-like acrobatics. Having eight legs helps a little.

At no time should a keeper ever consider freehandling a highly venomous species of scorpion. Regardless of how calm the scorpion may appear. They can lash out defensively with no signs of warning.

The venom of a scorpion is produced in a set of glands called the Telson. The Telson is the large ball segment on the top of the scorpion’s tail (it’s technically not a tail, but an extension of the digestive system. Yes, they poop out of it) equipped with a stinger. The venom is used to immobilize and kill prey. It’s also used as a defense mechanism to ward off predators.

Some species (the Hott ones) have produced an incredibly potent venom, similar to that of a Cobra or Viper.

Unlike snakes that can control the amount of venom they inject, scorpions have extremely concentrated venom for their size. Just a fraction of a drop of scorpion venom could result in a fatal outcome. Certain people may also have an unknown allergy to scorpion venom. And if they do, the onset of anaphylactic shock from the allergic reaction, could be swift and debilitating, or even fatal.

But which Hott species should I get? There are so many different species of Hott scorpions available. So here’s this author’s list of the top five spicy scorpions! The following species of scorpions have been selected not only for their potency of venom, but for their hardiness in captivity, availability in the pet trade, and their ease of maintenance and care.

Hottentotta hottentotta - African Bark Scorpion The genus of Hottentotta is a vast and exciting group of scorpions. They range from North Africa, all the way east to India and Nepal. The most Toxic is Hottentotta tamulus, the Indian Red Scorpion, responsible for the most human deaths from scorpion stings annually worldwide. But they are rarely seen in the US market, so they didn’t make this list.

However, their Saharan cousin, Hottentotta hottentotta ,totally did! This species has a lot of common names.

Stripped Bark, African Bark, and Yellow Bark Scorpion, to name a few. They get this name not from any audible dog noise they make, but rather from where they’re most commonly found. You guessed it, tree bark. Hottentotta hottentotta is quite variable in color. They tend to match their surroundings quite well.

Their primary colors are rusty browns and sandy beige. With darker stripes across the top of each body segment.

They inhabit almost all of the African continent surrounding the perimeter of the Sahara Desert. Most of the specimens we get in the US are of Egyptian or West African localities, and are usually Tan in color. African barks typically stay small, around two inches in length, with females being larger and more stout.

If you decide to acquire an African Bark, don’t be surprised if you see babies out of nowhere.

Hottentotta hottentotta from certain regions reproduce parthenogenically. This means that mom makes babies without ever interacting with a male scorpion. However, this “Virgin Birth” is oftentimes just a case of sperm retention. Certain female members of the Buthidae family have the ability to hold onto sperm for over 12 months! That way, mom can have her babies when she’s ready, to ensure the babies get a safe start at life.

Now let’s talk Spice. The venom of Hottentotta hottentotta is potent, but not life threatening (obviously excluding allergic reactions). That being said, it’s agonizingly painfully. Hot, searing pain, oftentimes compared to placing the sting site on a lit stovetop! The venom is fast acting and spreads quickly. Swelling is almost immediate, with flaming pain spreading throughout the body. Providing anaphylaxis doesn’t creep in, the sting usually only lasts 610 hours. But you may want to keep that bottle of ibuprofen handy!

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Centruroides sculpturatus- Arizona Bark Scorpion

Number four on our spice market list, is the only North American native to truly pack a wallop. The Arizona Bark Scorpion, Centruroides sculpturatus. Much like the African bark scorpions, Arizona Barks get their name from inhabiting fallen timber and dead cactus skeletons. They range from south east California, across the southwestern United States and down into Mexico.

Due to this species being native to North America, they can be found readily available at most pet shows and shops. If you live in the Sonoran Desert, you’ve probably been blessed to find one in a boot, shoe or basement. Good for you, your pet was free!

Usually golden, or yellow in color, Arizona Barks are very slender in appearance. Adults are usually three inches in length and very flat. The tail and pincers are long and thin.

Males are larger than females and have a longer tail with longer tail segments.

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Arizona Barks are commonly confused with other similar looking species of the southwest. Species of the genus Vaejovis and Hadrurus are similar looking when they’re small, but are nowhere near as potent in toxicity.

Centruroides sculpturatus is the most toxic native scorpion to North America. Many human fatalities have occurred. But since the invention of antivenin, these fatalities are very rare and almost exclusive to infants and the elderly.

The venom of Centruroides sculpturatus is painful and debilitating. Symptoms may include, flaming pain, paralysis of joints and muscles, as well as uncontrollable vomiting.

Due to sporadic muscle convulsions, full body pain, and shortness of breath, a person who’s been envenomated should be constantly monitored and medical attention must be received! However, with a healthy immune system, and the use of antivenin, envenomations typically only last 72 hours.

Never forget to check your shoes!

Androctonus bicolor - Black Fat-Tailed Scorpion Number three on our list brings the term “Black Death” to a new concept.

Androctonus bicolor, The Black Fat-Tailed Scorpion, is a highly toxic species of scorpion native to North Africa and the Near-East. The genus name Androctonus, loosely translates to “Man-Killer” or ManMurderer in Ancient Greek.

Fat-tailed scorpions get their name from their oversized tails. The tails are large, heavily built, and distinct to the genus. And although rare, Androctonus bicolor has the capabilities to exceed three inches in length.

Most keepers are solely impressed with the tail of Androctonus bicolor. The segments of the tail are concave, sharply articulated, and their telson retracts inside the last segment, giving the appearance of there being no stinger at all. The tail is usually curved upright in the traditional “scorpion posture,” and has a full 360° range of motion.

Androctonus bicolor are quick to sting. They typically will keep their tail covering their body as a shield and have no problem whipping their tail backwards to sting directly behind them.

Having such a large derrière, gives these scorpions a robust look, despite them rarely being larger than one or two inches overall. Androctonus bicolor is oftentimes confused with a similar species, Androctonus crassicauda, the Arabian FatTail.

The venom of Androctonus bicolor is very spicy. The venom is a highly concentrated neurotoxin that primarily attacks the muscles of the respiratory system. As the venom spreads rapidly through the body, nerves in control of muscles become disabled. This leads to paralysis, abdominal convulsions and eventually, respiratory failure. Symptoms of an envenomation from Androctonus bicolor are: sharp pain at the sting site, an overabundance of saliva, and uncontrollable sluggishness.

Although very similar in appearance, both being dark black in color, with fat tails, Androctonus bicolor has a larger, less granulated tail, light brown or red pinchers, and is more commonly seen in the pet trade.

Providing anaphylactic shock from being allergic is not a factor, death from envenomation can be swift. In the case of small children, as quickly as 1-5 hours. Luckily, a monovalent antivenin is available for Thicktails. But hopefully we never have to use it.

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Androctonus australis - Tunisian Fat-Tail Scorpion Tunisian Fat-taileds are stocky scorpions, averaging around three inches in length. They have large, powerful claws, and an even more impressive tail. Their coloration is usually yellow or tan, with darker pigment along each segment of the body. The telson and stinger are black or grey, with dark color fading down from the stinger towards the body as if the tail was dipped in ink.

Number two on our list is undoubtedly this authors favorite scorpion. The lord of the Sahara, Androctonus australis, the Tunisian Fat-Tail.

Androctonus australis is as iconic to invertebrate enthusiasts as the Sahara Desert itself. They’re found from western Morocco, east through Tunisia, Egypt and the Sinai, and encompass the entirety of Northern Africa.

The exoskeleton of Androctonus australis is rather unique. On a macroscopic scale, tiny granulations can be found covering the entire scorpion. These bumps act as a deflection shield against the harsh sandy wind of the desert. It’s believed, that this is the reason why Androctonus australis doesn’t burrow like most other Saharan species of scorpion.

Instead, they remain on the sandy surface, immune to wind and dust.

But what of the venom? The venom of Androctonus australis is arguably the most toxic of scorpion venoms. Intense pain is prevalent immediately upon envenomation.

But, some of the worst things in life are Androctonus australis stand their ground. They painless. The key to Androctonus australis’ are a fearless species of arachnid, rumored to venom, are neurotoxins that break down scare off the largest of predators. Confident in key neurological systems of the heart, their unique exoskeleton, and highly toxic specifically in mammals and insects. venom, there are few Saharan animals brazen enough to challenge this scorpion.

This type of venom is called a Cardiotoxin.

Toxins of this type attack the heart and Being a member of the Androctonus genus, circulatory system, causing cardiac implies is lethality, but it’s species name has arrhythmias, and eventually heart failure. always been a topic of discussion amongst Victims of an australis sting should seek enthusiasts. It’s believed that when the medical aid with antivenin immediately! grandfather of taxonomy, Carl Linnaeus Androctonus australis are less likely to sting described the species in 1758, he was than most other scorpions of their region, misinformed of it’s locality. Naming it australis, nevertheless, they are quick and extremely meaning, “of the south,” even though the toxic. This is one species NOT for beginners.. species is endemic to the northern hemisphere.

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Leiurus quinquestriatus - Israeli Death Stalker Scorpion The number one spot on our top five spiciest scorpions list is probably the most infamous scorpion as well, Leiurus quinquestriatus, the Israeli Death Stalker.

Although not always the most available pet wise, and seldom encountered in the wild, the Death Stalker has invoked fear across the Near-East, and has developed a reputation of being the baddest critter north of the Yam Suph.

Leiurus are actually quite timid. However, when provoked, they can unleash a barrage of stings in multiple directions from their long and thin tail. Specimen have been observed wedged between rocks for protection against predation, while at the same time frantically jabbing at the air with their stinger from their periscope like tail.

The venom of Leiurus quinquestriatus is not as bad as people think. Oh it’s lethal, but It’s reputation has preceded it. Most healthy adults who are actually stung by Death Stalkers (and not a mimic species) survive, especially with the aid of antivenin. That being said, the venom of Leiurus is a devastating cocktail of toxins.

Leiurus quinquestriatus venom is neurotoxic. It disrupts proteins in nerve chains, “turning Leiurus are unique in their defensive posture. things off” as it flows through the body, Unlike most scorpions that tuck back their predominantly that of the heart and lungs. The pincers and cock back their tail, assuming the venom is almost a mix between Androctonus classic scorpion posture, Death Stalkers will bicolor and Androctonus australis. stretch out their pedipalps and fully erect their Cardiotoxins attack the heart and disable tail. It’s believed that this posture allows for a nerve pathways that control the heart. While better view of encroaching enemies, as well as at the same time, attacking the lungs, causing to display their unique defense markings. pulmonary edema.

Relatively large in size, oftentimes exceeding three inches, the base color of Leiurus quinquestriatus is tan or yellow, similar to Androctonus australis. The last segment of the Death Stalker’s tail, right before the telson, is dark in pigment, oftentimes black. The “face” of Leiurus is also marked with lines of black pigment. And while the true reasons behind this are unclear, it makes for a menacing appearance to a would-be predator.

The pain of a Leiurus sting is overwhelming.

Oftentimes it's compared to sticking the sting site in a deep fryer for a few hours. Should someone get stung by Leiurus quinquestriatus, antivenin must be procured! Hundreds of people are stung by Death Stalkers every year in Israel, Jordan and parts of Egypt. And very few victims succumb to the stalker’s venom. But remember, it didn’t get its name from being cute. It is still considered a lethal species of scorpion.

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Industry Spotlight

Matt Minetola of Philly Herpetoculture 27

HM: How did you get into reptiles?

MM: My dad was into fresh water fish and we always had a small tank at my house. That hobby would bring me into pet stores with him on the weekends when I was as young as 5. I was always drawn to the reptile section and turtles had my eye first. My dad was a really good carpenter and for side work he was building tank stands for the local pet store owner for some side work. The owner gave me a little stool to sit on and said "you run the reptile section now since your always over here" I didn’t do anything besides go get an employee when someone had questions and he paid me with sandwiches and soda.

The owner offered my dad some Red-Eared Sliders to take home which my dad accepted for me. Shortly after, I really became fascinated with snakes but we didn’t have a lot of money so although my parents were fine with having animals, they couldn’t afford to get me any more reptiles but I was able to catch Dekay's snakes and keep them. With not being able to get the snakes I would see at pet stores, I became a big fan of going to the library. I would just take out books about snakes and read what I could understand and look at the pictures all day. From there on out, my love of snakes and reptiles kept growing.

HM: When did you decide to take your hobby to the next level and start Philly Herpetoculture?

MM: I was out of reptiles from the time I was 13 til I was 18. I was able to get a house when I was 18 and my first thought was I’m getting some snakes. So late 2002 early 2003 I began to get a collection of snakes.

After a year or so I had 8 snakes and was starting to be in my local pet store more and more. I then met a friend and a mentor there that was working in the reptile section. My trips to the pet store early on went from being in and out within 5-10 minutes to hanging out and talking with my friend for an hour or 2.

He told me how he and his brother had an Albino Royal Python. I didn’t know what they cost but I knew they were expensive, so I asked how can you afford to keep such expensive pets? He said he and his brother breed and sell some of the offspring to get some of the money back. It also helps pay for more reptiles and equipment. I had a ton of questions about the whole breeding process and what it takes.

When I learned about what goes into it and how the snakes have to be conditioned, I had no interest in breeding snakes. My thing was having beautiful flawless animals kept in tanks that I could see all the time.

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The thought of having lots of hide spots, no lights on, females having eggs and losing a ton of weight, males that don’t feed while breeding didn’t sound good to me at all. Shortly after, I started looking at more expensive and different species and all the different kinds of enclosures for reptile keeping and breeding. Then breeding started to look and sound really good.

I then went into a partnership with my friend and his brother in 2004. We had a few successful breedings and did pretty well together but we all wanted to go in different directions with what we wanted to work with and had different goals. So, in 2006 I decided to go on my own and started Philly Herpetoculture to focus on breeding and keeping Borneo Short Tails, Red Bloods, and Sumatran Short Tail Pythons.

HM: You are well known for your Borneo Short tails, what drew you to them? What are some of the myths surrounding Borneos?

MM: When I got my house at 18 and decided I need snakes again, I realized I have no restrictions of parents rules etc. When I was younger, I had a Royal Python, Colombian Boa (BCC) along with some different lizards and turtles. Now that I made the decisions and could pick what I wanted (and I did want some of that stuff) I started looking at books, reptile magazines, and online to see what’s out there. I could remember Pro Exotics adds from Reptile magazines and checked out their site online. That’s when I first really noticed Short Tails Pythons.

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They had great pictures of babies, adults, and everything in between. I saw Red Bloods first and I loved how odd looking the girth of the mid-body was compared to their head size. Then I took noticed to how short they were. Something about that compact but huge looking snake really had my attention. Pro Exotics had a nice Red Stripe line and would take these awesome group shots with a bunch of huge adults and they blew my mind. Then I clicked on the Borneo Short Tail gallery and fell in love.

They looked the same as Red Bloods with the body type and shape but the color of the head really got me started looking at them even closer. The oranges, yellows, and cream look let you see more details in their face and head shape. Compared to the Red Blood heads which are usually on the darker side and not as appealing to me since it's harder to see all that’s going on. As crazy as it sounds to most people, I liked the Borneo’s colors altogether more than the Reds. They also seemed less appreciated which I think drew me in more because not much was talked about or happening with them. Once I wanted to start breeding, I was even more excited just hoping to make copies of the genes I liked. I never thought in a million years I’d have my own lines and hatch some one of a kind Borneo’s back then.

The myths with this species have been the same for a long time now. Number one is they all have a nasty attitude! Can they be defensive? Of course. Can some be really defensive pretty much all the time? Certain individuals. But for the most part if the species is cared for well and given the proper requirements the majority of Short Tails can be handled and worked with fairly easily. Another big myth that just doesn’t want to go away (and this one can be very costly to a new keeper) is that they need constant, very high, humidity of 75% and over.

While the species does well and benefits from a pretty steady 45%-55% humidity level, it’s not something to lose your mind trying to make happen all day, every day. The problem is most new keepers try and keep that high humidity going and keep them too wet which brings on problems like upper respiratory infections, skin issues, etc. Then there’s some newer myths being talked about, like Short Tails can be kept and are as easy as Royal Pythons. This, in my opinion, is just not true. While this species doesn’t require an expert level of experience, it’s higher up on the intermediate level from my experiences.

Short Tails aren’t forgiving to husbandry mistakes and it doesn’t take long for them to go downhill fast once illness kicks in. While this species doesn’t have to many requirements it does take good experience to be able to have an idea why your Short Tail is acting a certain way. It ties into why people think they have poor attitudes, if they’re kept too hot or left feeling exposed in too big of an enclosure or don’t have proper hides it can lead them to become agitated. I can go on all day with the myths but those are some of the big ones I always encounter.

"Pro Exotics had a nice Red Stripe line and would take these awesome group shots with a bunch of huge adults and the pictures would blow my mind. Then I clicked on the Borneo Short Tail gallery and fell in love."

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HM: You have one the best reptile rooms around, what was your approach when setting up your room?

MM: Thanks for the kind words. It’s been a nonstop work in progress. I’ll likely always work to improve on it or change what I need to depending on new species or projects that come along. In my old house, I went from keeping snakes in a spare bedroom as pets to growing too big for that room and moving them to the basement. Once I realized I wanted a lot more and planned on breeding, I started buying up racks.

I ordered two racks that could house 14 snakes even though I only had eight at the time. That’s what I continued to do, always buy racks and enclosures way ahead of time. It was great because I never had to think about how I’m going to house new animals having all the extra available enclosures.

Once my room started to fill, I noticed odd spaces that were opened in my room and I’d measure and figure out how I can get more in my room in a way that made sense. When I moved to the house I’m in now, I had so much more space and I couldn’t stop day dreaming and thinking of what I could do. I try and use every inch I can that makes sense so nothing is an inconvenience and I don’t get to crammed but still have everything I need and like.

With so many cage and rack manufacturers there’s always a way to find the right size that will fit somewhere. Worst case, plenty of people will build it custom or you could always build it yourself.

I’m also big on knowing all the temps in my room and what rack/cage should go where for what species.

Everyone’s room is different and although you have your room set for 79-80, lower to the ground is always cooler while the ceiling is hotter. Even certain corners or one side can catch more of a draft being near a door or window so figuring out your cool spots and temp swings are key to knowing how to setup your room.

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HM: What are you most excited about for 2020 with Philly Herpetoculture?

MM: As of late, I’ve been thinking of dialing back a few things just to add some new ones. I mean hopefully I can lower my number a bit but we’ll see. I have a lot of my own Borneo stock here and need to get more Borneo genes I don’t have much of.

I’ve always mixed things up but I’m at a point where I really want to start some new long-term projects.

I’m also hoping to add a few new species like some Northern Emerald Tree Boas and getting more into BCC again hopefully. It looks like I’m not doing many shows this year. Even though I said I want to get into doing more or different show’s this year, if I’m not doing shows for a little while it should let me sit back and readjust the way I do shows or give me a break so I appreciate them that much more.

HM: What is the plan for Philly Herpetoculture for the next 5-10 years?

MM: Honestly, I’ve been breeding since 2005 and started Philly Herp in 2006, I use to have certain goals and think I hope to be at this level at this time, etc. but the last few years my only goal is to keep doing what I enjoy, try not to put too much on my plate and just always try to improve on what I’m breeding or keeping.

Then there’s the 2020-2021 breeding season and I’m hoping, besides having some cool Borneo and Red Blood pairings, I’ll actually focus in and do some Chondros, Rough Scaled Pythons, and maybe a few other things that should all be ready to go this upcoming season.

I guess there’s a few things I’m shooting for but in a different way of where I want Philly Herpetoculture to be. I’d like to try and vend or just attend more bigger shows. I want to travel more to make it to herp events, see peoples' collections and just get to hang out with cool reptile people.

The last one is big for me and that’s to do more field herping. I really want to go to Indonesia/Borneo and hopefully in the next 5-10 years (hopefully sooner!) I can make that happen along with other big trips like that but even herping local and in the US needs to start happening more for me. I guess getting out and herping can improve Philly Herp by having a better understanding of reptiles and amphibians even though some or most of what I’m finding I’m not even keeping.

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HM: Besides Borneos, what would be your next favorite species to keep and why?

MM: That’s a tough question! I don’t have a huge sample size of either but I’d say Sanzinia or Rough Scaled Pythons. Both of those species are the only two I actually handle for a bit without just having to go in and clean.

I have them in cages and they’re both a species you can sit and watch as they don’t hide all the time.

Rough Scales have amazingly colored eyes, the feel of the scales are obviously very different for my collection. They're becoming more popular but still pretty rare for people to see or have.

Sanzinia are also rare in the hobby, I’d say harder to get then Rough Scaleds. I’m lucky enough to have the Greens (rarer and they're living with Keith McPeek) and Mandarins. They have amazing patterns, the color change throughout their life is fun to watch and I love their short stubby head and face. It’s such a scary looking Boa that isn’t defensive at all. I’m looking forward to attempting to breed both species in the next few years. Sorry I cheated and picked two. It's just too hard to narrow it down.

HM: With you being around the hobby for a while, what advice would you give to someone just starting out in the hobby?

MM: I think if someone new is getting into the hobby they already have a certain species eyed up and are ready to go, so I’ll start from there. I’d strongly suggest that they research books (if possible, for that species) online, social media, and if you could ask keepers directly.

New keepers always seem to have in mind what they picture their setup will look like and how things will go but they have to be open to changing and listening which for whatever reason seems difficult for most. I suggest taking your time with how many animals their going to attempt to keep.

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While I know saying get one or two then wait 6-8 months is a good idea, it’s not realistic in todays hobby. So just don’t go insane because chances are if you have to change the way you’re doing things to make everything work, you may not like that species anymore. Plus being in the hobby now you’ll see other species you’re going to want to try and you may fall in love with them or want to try and keep multiple species Another big one that’s easy to say is try keeping for a while before breeding. Since I’ve been around a little bit when I was getting into reptiles people started out wanting to keep reptiles to watch them and see them eat etc. Breeding was something that would usually come around way later. Now people join this hobby saying they want to be a breeder.

It’s tough to hear (understandable with how the hobby is now) but it’s really important to try, as a new keeper, to buy young CBB animals and raise them from as young as possible to work with a species to get an idea of how they are from being a neo to an adult if you plan on breeding.

I can’t tell you how many messages and emails I’ve received asking how long do eggs take to hatch, what do babies feed on, when do they shed, how do I house them, even why do all these babies strike? This all comes from keepers that have only worked with adult/sub-adult established animals. That kind of stuff drives me crazy! I think I’m pretty patient with most things but that kind of new keeper makes it really tough to be.

Follow Matt @ Philly Herpetoculture on Facebook and Instragram

The Journey to 1,000 Hours Paul McIntyre takes us through his journey thus far in getting his 1,000 hours of venomous apprenticeship!

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Keeping hots has always been something I have wanted to do. As my kids have grown and are old enough to understand the difference between a ball python and a gaboon viper I felt this was the ideal time to start the journey. But wait how do I start?

First I googled venomous in Florida and discovered that in order to keep these reptiles you must complete 1,000 hours of training for EACH yes EACH family so Viperidae, Elapidae, Colubridae and Helodermatidae all require 1,000 hours with an already licensed keeper. Therefore, what that meant to me was somebody I really did not know would have to trust me with a collection of animals that are not only monetarily valuable, but can also kill me or them and they would be held responsible.

So after searching and sending emails I couldn't find anyone willing to let me come and intern or volunteer to work with them and learn. Which I cannot really blame anyone I spoke with, as they did not know me from Adam. Therefore, what do you do? Just keep looking.

In February 2019, we attended SECF (Southeast CarpetFest) at Cody and Pia Bartolini’s private facility. Not only did we meet some amazing new friends but unseen to us, the friendship we would forge with the Bartolini’s moving forward. After spending some time speaking with Pia (as Cody was making his rounds all night) I explained I was really looking to volunteer or intern doing whatever it would take to get my hours to keep venomous. She was open to the idea but said ultimately it would be Cody who would make the call.

In the end, Cody gave me a shot reluctantly. This has been a fantastic journey of new friends, new firsts, and some very tense moments. NEVERTHELESS, all filled with plenty of snake poop and urates. My weekends are now filled with cleaning, feeding, watering and working with some of the world’s deadliest reptiles. No free handling, no risks, no chest bumping bro moments to show off at all. Cody is there to teach and I am there to learn. Being a part of this process has opened my eyes to just how amazing an experience and honor this really is.

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Just some of my background, I started like most catching snakes and salamanders around Upstate New York. This grew into a fascination with breeding as it has for a lot of us today. From veiled chameleons, leopard geckos, crested geckos, ball python’s boas and now reticulated pythons and burmese pythons we as a family have grown into loving this industry. It is great to be able to share these amazing times with all of my children and my wife as well.

So I’m just past my midpoint for elapids and vipers and what a roller coaster. Just a few species I have worked in no real order are, D. viridis, D. polylepis, D. angusticeps, O. microlepidotus, O. scutellatus, B. gabonica, B. asper, B. moojeni, B. atrox and many more of the collections 50 plus species and 250 plus animals.

Is it amazing? YES. Is it worth it? YES. I would not trade this time spent for anything and I cannot thank Pia and Cody enough. They are truly our family now and this road has been unreal. Each trip to the facility is different. Never the same encounters. Sure, some of the animals have a very distinct personality but for the most part, we do our thing and safely work each animal.

I utilize two hook and hex armor gloves. Now the gloves are not the end all be all it is just an extra layer of precaution. We utilize the typical Brute trash can to keep the animal while we service the enclosure, and at no point do we ever free handle any of these animals for any reason other than examination due to injury or illness.

Honestly, you can find some of these “free handling professionals” on YouTube.

These are my views of handling venomous reptiles. I speak for myself and want that to be very clear. I’m sure I will see some cool backlash from this article. Honestly not a concern of mine.

It should however be a concern of yours.

Making poor decisions can and will eventually affect us all. If you choose to free handle, I understand that is your choice. BUT, sometimes just because you can does not mean you should.

The Warning at the beginning says things like, I’m a licensed professional or trained and licensed professional but are they really? Are you a professional if you know enough to admit the animal you are free handling is in shed not happy yet you and others while filming for your brocause taunting the snake end up getting bitten and spending 2 months in the hospital? How about kissing a cobra on the back of his head?

More Bro-down behavior that has no room in this industry. It truly hurts us all and at the end of the day it will only kill you. These people are playing with fire and might as well take a revolver load one round and play russian roulette as every time you put your hand in the strike zone of one of these snakes you are just asking for trouble.

If by chance you are one of the Bro-hungry guys who needs to free handle to show how awesome you are I understand. I just hope your family doesn’t have find you in a situation you could have controlled but chose not to. Don’t forget you are potentially looking down the barrel of a loaded gun and maybe this time will be your last time.

There are so many plans here at the RPI (Reptile Preservation Institute) and being a part of those talks is very cool. 2020 SECF (South East Carpet Fest) will be one for the books. If you have not been to one, here is your chance to come and support Nidovirus research. Hold the date February 8th 2020. We hope to see you over on Instagram @predatorparkreptiles and follow RPI @reptilepreservationinstitute!

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Herp Book Review How Snakes Work is a fantastic addition to any herper’s library.

This book covers every topic possible that one could want to know pertaining to snakes.

Digestion, Feeding, Shedding, Reproduction, Locomotion, etc.

Each topic has a full chapter dedicated to it. This book does read like a biology textbook. It is easy to understand but there are definitely scientific terms used a lot.

Fortunately, they do have a glossary in the back of the book just for that reason.

"This book is well suited for everyone, from professional zoologists to the everyday hobbyist."

My opinion on this book is as follows: This book is for any person that is interested in snakes and have taken that interest to the next level and now keeps them. Every topic is broken down as far as it can be. This book will teach you more about how snakes work than you ever knew possible. I refer back to this book from time to time and I learn something every time I crack it open!

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Benjamin, The famous Jag owned by Will Leary

The Jaguar, aka jag, morph is a morph of the coastal carpet python and is an incomplete dominant trait.

The homozygous form of this morph is leucistic. Sadly, the homozygous form is also lethal. There have been some cases where leucistics have survived for a brief time outside the egg, but they always end up perishing within a day. It has been shown that the issue is with the development of the lungs.

The gene reduces pattern and melanin. It also appears to lighten up the base color of the snake.

Unfortunately, there are additional neurological issues associated with this gene.

The symptoms can be as mild as poor coordination or as severe as corkscrewing. The issues seem to present themselves when the snake becomes stressed. There are some jags that don’t show any signs and others that come out of the egg having problems. This condition doesn’t seem to affect the snakes overall health since they eat, shed and breed without any issues. This is the same condition that you see in spider ball pythons.

Riddler, a 75% Jungle Jag Owned by Mojo Reptiles

- Moreila SpotlightJaguar Carpet Pythons

By Eric Burke

The first Jag ever produced by J.E.E.

History This morph originated from Jan Eric Engell.

In 1994, after several years of breeding coastal carpet pythons he produced an unusual looking carpet python. In 1997 he named the morph the Jaguar and set out to see if it was recessive or incomplete dominant.

In 1998 he bred the jag to an unrelated female coastal carpet. Unfortunately the clutch only resulted in 4 good eggs. However, one of the babies did turn out to be a jag. Jan used the same pair in 1999 and produced 12 babies. Four were normal and eight were jags. All of these snakes went to the U.S. One of the most famous jags was a snake owned by Will Leary called Benjamin. Benjamin was bred to a coastal carpet called Madam Blueberry and founded the carpets that today we call "Red" jags. The initials MBB in carpets stands for Madam Blueberry. MBB is believed to have started the red line of coastal carpets.

In the early days it seems that there was a lot of confusion about this gene and its mode of inheritance. Today, it isn’t much clearer. There are a few people, including myself, hard at work with trying to understand the genetics behind this amazing snake.

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H erp R oom Jams Gojira Terra Incognita

There's a lot that could be said about the French metal foursome Gojira. Personally, I think they're easily one of the most underrated metal bands of all time. There isn't a single album in their discography that I don't enjoy but Terra Incognita would have to be my pick of the litter.

This album was the bands' first official release circa 2001. It features some incredibly heavy grooves and impeccable instrumenals from all four members. If you like metal but want something outside of the cookie cutter song structure we see in 37 metal today then check out this album as well as their later works. I doubt you'll be disappointed! This album takes you back to something we used to be. Primal cavemen.

Returning to Melrose, Florida February, 8 th Mark your calendars and join the SECF

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2020 Facebook Group to stay in the loop!

Coming soon...

- Diamondback Terrapins!

- Sailfin Dragons!

- Atheris!

- The spiny flower mantis!

AND MORE!

Thanks to all our contributors for helping make this issue possible! More importantly thank YOU, the reader!

Please be sure to follow us on Facebook and Instagram (@herpetoculturemagazine) We hope you enjoyed it!Justin & Billy

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