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100

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EXPERIENCES KYRGYZSTAN

HERTFORDSHIRE PRESS

Hertfordshire Press Š 2013 (Imprint of Silk Road Media) Suite 125, 43 Bedford Street, WC2E 9HA, London, UK www.hertfordshirepress.com

D DIGEST

Issue #38 / 2013

100 EXPERIENCES OF KYRGYZSTAN Author: Ian Claytor Editor: Nick Rowan, Roger Chao Design: Aleksandra Vlasova Photographers: Marat Danilov, Sergey Dudashvili, Roger Chao, Zoya Sitnikova, Ian Claytor, Natalia Demasova, Jean-Luc Wenger, Mambet Kalpaev, Sergey Toropov, Nikolay Schetnikov, Guljamal Pirenova, Konnie Andrews, Olga Zaichenko, Sterlih, Aleksander Zalesskiy, Nargiza Ryskulova, Nikolay Kuznetsov, Nick Rowan, Marat Akhmedjanov, Pascal Lemoine, Dmitry Donskoy, Susanna Rivera, iStock photos, Jacqueline Ripart, Victor Rehemeyer, Zemfira Hanbury, Soderkisen, Hugues BISSOT, Vladimir Radcheko, Aleksandr Gusev, Elena BoslerGuseva, Anastacia Lee, Alexandra Ryaguzova, Archives of Compass CAEG, Silk Road Media, CENTRAL ASIAN TRAVEL SYSTEM, Aigine Cultural research centre, Shoro company, Ruh Ordo Center, Tien Shan Travel, Kyrgyz Heritage, ITMC, Aksai travel, Silk Road Water Center, Ak Keme hotel, CBT, Dmitry Chistoprudov.

ISBN: 9780957480742

First Edition

KYRGYZSTAN Area: Population: Capital: Ethnic groups: Languages:

Climate:

Currency:

200,000 km² 5 496 737 (July 2012 est.)

Bishkek city (formerly Frunze) Kyrgyz, Uzbek, Russian, Dungan, Ukrainian, Uighur and others Kyrgyz (official), Russian is de facto second language of communication Dry continental to polar in high Tien Shan; subtropical in southwest (Fergana Valley); temperate in northern foothill zone Som (KGS)

“THERE IS SOMETHING SPECIAL ABOUT KYRGYZSTAN …” … it gets into your blood, under your skin.”

Nobody knows exactly what it is, but there is something about this country that excites visitors – makes them want to extend their stay or at the very least to return.

Is it the spectacular scenery; the wildlife; the traditional nomadic culture; the distinctive crafts; the atmosphere connected with the many historical places and archaeological sites connected with the Great Silk Road, the Mongol Hordes, the Bolshevik Revolution; or the variety of possible activities; the hospitality of the local populace … or is it a combination of all of these factors?

Whatever it is, there is something that makes Kyrgyzstan “special”. It is a small country with over 90% of the territory classified as “mountainous”. The peaks and valleys divide the landscape into quite distinct landscapes, microclimates and habitats. It is possible to encounter many different experiences in a small geographical area, and a short space of time.

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The Kyrgyz themselves recognize the uniqueness of the country as is shown in some of their legends. One such legend tells how God was allocating plots of land to the various people of the world after the creation.

The Kyrgyz, whilst waiting in line with the others, that is was taking too long and he needed to go and tend to his sheep. When he returned he discovered that God had finished his task, and he asked: “What plot of land shall I have to call my own?” God replied that that all the land had been allocated and there was none left. The Kyrgyz said that he did not need a lot of land, it did not have to have lots of riches - it just had to be sufficient for him to pasture his flocks. God took pity on him and said that there was a little plot of land left. He had been intending to keep it for Himself as a garden for his own rest and relaxation, but the Kyrgyz could use it for pasturing his flocks.

Many visitors, however, know little about the country before they arrive. One journalist has claimed that Kyrgyzstan is “arguably the world’s least-known country”.1 Whereas that may, or

may not, have been true when it was written, (he did say “arguably”), time has passed and in recent times Kyrgyzstan has occasionally appearaned in the world’s media. Even so, many people still get confused about “the Stans” in general, and have only a scant idea about where Kyrgyzstan is, and what can be found here.

The journalist, however, certainly summed up how I felt about the country when I first arrived, (for a 10 day holiday), back in 1994. At that time it was very difficult to find out anything about this once remote corner of Central Asia – one of the small landlocked states to emerge from the former Soviet Union that lies in the heart of the Eurasian continent and once straddled the Great Silk Road. Obviously, in school I had learned about the Great Silk Road, and about historical characters such as Genghis Khan and Tamerlane, but I had, really, no idea of what to expect as I descended steps from the airplane. I would have welcomed a magazine such as Discovery Kyrgyzstan to open a window onto this country of contrasts: its variety of landscapes and wildlife, peoples and cultures, history and traditions.

Kyrgyzstan is a land of contrasts. Even though it is only a small country, within its borders there are a multitude of spectacular landscapes; an abundance of wildlife – much of it very rare

and endangered; a multi-ethnic population representing over 80 different nationalities each preserving their only culture, traditions and cuisine – primarily, of course, the nomadic Kyrgyz; numerous sites of historical interest and importance and a range of possible activities from mountaineering, trekking, rafting, skiing, or even just sitting on a beach, relaxing in the sunshiny. In short, there is something for everyone.

Kyrgyzstan (or The Kyrgyz Republic, to give the country its official name) lies at the very centre of the Eurasian continent, bordering China (to the east), Kazakhstan (to the north and west), Uzbekistan (to the south and west), and Tajikistan (to the south west and south).

Actually, the geographical centre of the Asian continent lies about 1,000km further north but the term “Central Asia” is widely used for this region and if you look at a map of the two continents together Kyrgyzstan does, more or less, lie in the centre.

It is a small, landlocked, mountainous country occupying just less than 200,000 square kilometres, about the size of Portugal, Switzerland, Belgium and the Netherlands put together, or a little less than the UK. 5

The northernmost part is on the sane latitude as Rome but, because it is landlocked, winters are much colder (and the height above sea-level makes many areas even colder. For example, Naryn fairly often experiences temperatures of -35° С in winter). Summers are both drier and hotter (45° С is not unusual and 50° С was recorded in 1998 near Bishkek).

Over 90% of the surface area is over 1,500m in height and therefore counts as mountainous, (although not all of it consists of peaks, there being numerous plateaus and wide intermountain valleys), and 41 % is over 3,000m high.

The greatest natural feature is the Tien-Shan mountain range (in Kyrgyz “Tenir-Too”) running northeast to southwest.

The second most famous feature is Lake IssykKul, (which is Kyrgyz for ‘warm lake’. It never freezes hence its name). The lake lies at an altitude of 1,600m above sea level in a basin surrounded by high mountains and is 668m deep in places.

It is not far by road (about three hours) from the second largest lake in Kyrgyzstan, Lake Son Kul, which lies at 3,000 meters, a remote 6

but beautiful wildlife sanctuary.

The river Naryn runs from north east to south west joining with the Kara-Darya to form a river which even in antiquity was called the Syr-Darya and which runs from Kyrgyzstan out into the Ferghana (Fergana) valley and on into the Aral Sea (though it is mainly diverted or exhausted before then). This is the second largest river in central Asia after the AmuDarya. It is possible to visit its source, above the city of Naryn.

The Kyrgyz are reckoned to be one of the oldest distinct nationalities and are mentioned in old Chinese chronicles. They were basically a pastoral, nomadic people travelling from jailoo to jailoo with their flocks. (A jailoo is a high mountain pasture, the lower pastures are called kyshtoo.) For a long time they were confused with the Kazakhs who were called Khirghiz, whilst the Kyrgyz themselves were called Kara Kyrgyz. It is said that the two nations are closely related but that the Kyrgyz were nomads who travelled from place to place high in the mountains, whilst the Kazakhs travelled from place to place down around the steppes. Both nationalities were renowned warriors.

Unlike its neighbours Uzbekistan and China, little evidence of Kyrgyzstan’s noble and ancient history has survived.

The country has seen many civilizations and empires rise and fall, such as: the Saks (known as the Scythians in the West), the Mongols, the Russians and the Soviet Union. Names such as Alexander the Great, Marco Polo, Genghis Khan, Tamerlane and Babur...are all associated with the region. The connection is stronger in some cases than in others. We are not quite sure exactly how far north Alexander the Great reached, but it is thought by some that he conquered the Chui valley. ousted the existing ruler, (Prince Shu), and made it to Issyk Kul where he left hostages, (mainly noble families from Iran) in a settlement on the southern shore which later became Barskoon. As far as we know Marco Polo never came further north than Kashgar having travelled through modern-day Afghanistan.

Genghis Khan and his horde of Mongol warriors did travel through the region sacking towns and cities which defied him but sparing others like Balasugan which opened their gates to his army. One of his wives is reputed to be buried on the ‘Genghis Khan Highway’, a track high in the mountains in the Talas region.

Tamerlane was born, grew up and based his empire on the Uzbek city of Samarkand but came through the territory of Kyrgyzstan on his

campaigns against the Chinese and there are several stories relating to him including a few archaeological sites. Babur, who founded the Mogul Raj in India, grew up in Osh. Although the Kyrgyz themselves at one time had a large empire, this fell into decline and they became the subject people of a range of empires over the centuries.

Some cities such as Osh, (which claims a 3,000 year history of continuous human settlement), may have a long history but only isolated remains of man’s early settlements in the region can be seen, and most of the great cities of the past are now little more than archaeological sites. It is possible to get a feel of the past at such places as Burana, near Tokmak, the Manas Gumbez (mausoleum), near Talas, the Uzgen complex, and the Tash Rabat caravanserai in the Naryn province on the road to Torugart and the Chinese border.

ANCIENT TIMES Man first appeared in the land that is now known as Kyrgyzstan in ancient times and there is archaeological evidence of early settlements. For example: - At Tosor, on the Southern shore of Lake Issyk Kul, archaeologists have found the site of an ancient (Paleological) settlement – said to date from 50,000 BC (!), 7

(a recent book says anywhere between 100,000 and 40,000 years old).

from other sources – Chinese, Arab, and the accounts of travellers and traders.

- In the 1950’s, during the construction of Alamedin Hydroelectric power station, (near Bishkek), stone tools dating from 6000 years ago were discovered.

- Osh, Kyrgyzstan’s second city – the “Southern Capital” of the country – has been the site of human settlement for over 3000 years).

A TROUBLED REGION The region has experienced troubled time being crossed several times by marauding armies – from before the time of Alexander the Great to modern times, such as: - The armies of China, who reached the western extent of their expansion when they were defeated at the Battle of Talas in 751AD. - The Mongols under Genghis Khan, - The armies of Timur (Tamerlane),

Petroglyphs, (stone inscriptions), are found at various places throughout the country and also provide evidence of early man’s existence – his life, religion and culture.

Unfortunately, only a few examples of old buildings or settlements remain. The early inhabitants were nomads, and the great cities which did exist in the past have long since disappeared. Many buildings were made of clay and (like may mausoleums that can be seen throughout the countryside) have been eroded so that only archaeological excavations can reveal the true extent of much of Kyrgyzstan’s early history.

The nomadic peoples did not leave written records either - their tradition was an oral one – and what written records there are come 8

… and in more recent times - Tsarist Russia, - The Civil War and - the Basmachi revolt.

Most accounts of the history of the region tend to start in the 1st Millennium BC – when the Kyrgyzstan was at the southernmost part of land occupied by the Sak peoples – whom the Roman historian, Herodotus, called Scythians. (It is claimed that some of the early historical sources suggest that these people included some references to a particular pointed felt hat – very similar to the Kalpak which is still worn by the Kyrgyz today).

Alexander the Great extended his Macedonian Empire - “Kitai” in Russian still means “Chinese”) Empire to Central Asia – but his armies never developed. conquered the Saks. Instead they headed South and turned their attention towards India. From the Altai Mountains, the Kyrgyz displaced the Uighurs, who themselves moved south to At the end of the second century BC, the area the steppes of western China (later Turkestan) came under the Hun Empire, which was a large and in turn displaced the local Turkish peoples. confederation of nomadic tribes. The Huns marched West, and nearly conquered Rome. All was swept aside with the invasion of the The empire, however, proved to be too vast Mongols under Genghiz Khan. After his death, and collapsed into historical oblivion. the empire was divided amongst his sons …

The Tokhars rose to fill the power vacuum the land that is now Kyrgyzstan became part created by the collapse of the Hun Empire, of the Chagatai Khanate. only to replaced in their turn by the Usun tribes (who saw the rise of the trade network now Tamerlane, (or Timur the lame), was one of known today as the “Silk Road”) – and then Genghis Khan’s descendants and rose to the Turkic Empire (from which the people of power leaving a mixed heritage marked by modern Turkey trace their descent). ruthless cruelty and sponsorship of learning – both artistic and scientific.

In the 6th to 9th Centuries – large settlements, such as Balasagan and Barskoon, rose Later, this became the Kokand Khanate, and flourished, then went into decline and dominated by Uzbeks from the south, but disappeared. following an uprising in 1870’s the Kyrgyz were finally brought under the sway of the Russian The unification of Turkic tribes gave rise to Empire following the expansion of the latter in the Western Turkic Khanate (there was later the second half of the 19th Century. an Eastern version) the capital of which was Suyab situated in the Chui valley, (Bishkek The land that now forms the Kyrgyz Republic lies in this valley). In the 10th-12th centuries, was assimilated into the Russian Empire the Kara-Khanid Khanate (or Kara-Khitai in the nineteenth century and after the 9

October Revolution became part of the Soviet Union – eventually becoming one of the sixteen Republics in 1936.

The Kyrgyz people, formerly nomadic, were – like others in central Asia – subject to a campaign of settlement and collectivization under the Soviet Union in its formative period, which left a large percentage of the population dead from starvation and disease. However, it cannot be denied that in later years the Russian presence led to many benefits in the forms of heavy subsidies enabling the relative modernisation of the country and its infrastructure. Many Kyrgyz still give the Soviet Union credit for the modernization of the country: factories, roads, railroads, airports, modern housing and power stations, as well as improvements in the education system and opportunities for young people, and the health and social security system. The country was one of the most favoured holiday destinations for Soviet citizens, who flocked especially to the many resorts on Lake IssykKul. Literacy rates are high. Today, many Kyrgyz still feel admiration, and even gratitude, for the development that took place in this period.

The present day borders of Kyrgyzstan, (Khirgizia, the Kyrgyz Republic) were drawn up by the new Russian authorities and later 10

redrawn under the Soviet Union, (for example, part of the Ferghana valley near Osh was ceded by Stalin to the Uzbeks). Even today there remain some border disputes, particularly in the south where enclaves of Uzbek land are totally encompassed within the borders of Kyrgyzstan. (Talks are going on to resolve these.)

Tensions were not far from the surface … in 1990 the republic declared its sovereignty and in 1991seceded from the Soviet Union following the abortive attempted August coup in Moscow. It became one of the world’s newest independent states and the government undertook a series of reforms with the support of various international organizations and is making strides into the 21st century.

In 2005 and 2010 the country leapt into the world’s attention when popular uprisings led to the fall of the incumbent governments.

In 2005, protests over the results of the parliamentary elections led to the storming of the White House, (the Presidential Palace and Government House in the heart of Bishkek) and the fall of the government of President Askar Akaev. He was replaced as President

by Kurmanbek Bakiev who repeated many of his predecessors mistakes and was himself toppled in the popular uprising of 2010.

THE KYRGYZ The Kyrgyz themselves are one of the oldest nationalities in Central Asia – mentioned in ancient Chinese texts over 2000 years ago – 2003 was being dedicated as the 2200th year of Kyrgyz Statehood. (The word “Kyrgyz” means something like “forty tribes”).

The commonly held view is that they travelled to Central Asia from the Yenesei region of Siberia and established themselves as a power in the mountainous region, at first as part of tribal alliances of various nomadic groups and eventually carving out the Kyrgyz Kaganat, although some scholars say that these were representatives of some of the “forty tribes” and that others were already occupying the land now known as Kyrgyzstan.

conflict with the Uighurs for some 20 years … and succeeded in evicting them from Balasugan to the Chinese borders where they fell easy victims to the Chinese who sought revenge for centuries of usery. The Kyrgyz of this time were, apparently, a tall people with light coloured hair and green or blue eyes. After their defeat of the Uighurs, they quickly returned to their forested homeland, but in the face of any serious opposition, they maintained control over the former Uighur lands. The Kyrgyz Khanate lasted for several centuries – eventually being defeated and replaced by a series of empires. It stretched from the Yenesei River to the eastern Tien Shan in the first millennium AD.

The Kyrgyz which descended upon the Uighur Empire around 832 – were a forest dwelling people from the Yenesei region in Siberia – some 40 days travel from the Uighur capital of Karabalasugin – a place where the trees grew so tall “that an arrow could not reach their peaks”. They had been in 11

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Bishkek

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BISHKEK The capital city, Bishkek, is not just the political center of the country; it also has its fair share of other attractions: markets, monuments, museums, parks and theaters. Indeed, modern Bishkek is a young city, a little over a century old, and as such, it has many of the advantages and facilities of a modern city: hotels, restaurants, nightlife, shops, internet cafes, banks and hospitals. It is also Kyrgyzstan’s commercial centre.

Bishkek is also famous for its shady boulevards and tree lined streets – it is known as the “greenest city in Central Asia”. The snow-capped peaks to the south of the city offer a dramatic backdrop for photographs as well as a chance to be in the mountains within as little as an hour’s drive from the city centre.

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ALA TOO SQUARE Ala Too is the name of the main square in Bishkek and is bisected by Prospect Chui. It used to be called Lenin Square and it marked the center of the capital - at least for ceremonial, formalities, parades and the like.

Here is the Historical Museum, Friendship House, (Dom Druzhba), the marble facades of the Ilbirs building and various government buildings, statues of Manas and Chingiz Aitmatov and the State flagpole, protected by an Honour Guard.

The square is nearly always busy which people passing through, photographers and Karaoke machines. It really comes into its own, however, on holidays or festivals. Large gatherings of people are common for prayers at Nauruz (March 20th), at New Year or on Independence Day, when parades take place in front of the podium and fireworks light up the night sky, or for concerts on the stage erected at the southern end of the square.

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BISHKEK CATHEDRAL The Russian Orthodox Cathedral of the Resurrection in Bishkek is a young church in that it dates back to 1943.

At first, apart from the Cathedral, there was just one small, single storey building on the site, but a Baptistery was added in 1956 and a number of new buildings have been added since Independence in 1991 – and there is a small museum dedicated to the history of the Orthodox Church in Turkestan.

As well as a variety of icons, the Cathedral has the remains of Kyrgyzstan’s own Saint, (Saint Irakliy), who was brought from his burial place in Anayevo on the shores of Lake Issyk Kul, in 2008.

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DORDOI BAZAAR Dordoi Bazaar is a large wholesale and retail market in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. It is one of Asia’s greatest public market places.

It is not just a major shopping centre for Bishkek and the surrounding area, but it is also one of the main transit points for consumer goods from China to the shops and markets in Kazakhstan, Russia, and Uzbekistan.

Most of the market is built of double-stacked shipping containers.

Typically, the lower container is used as a shop, while the upper one is used for additional storage. According to a newspaper reports, there are somewhere between 6,000 and 7,000 containers in the bazaar and about 20,000 people are employed there (as vendors, security and service personnel).

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FRUNZE MUSEUM The Frunze museum in Bishkek traces the life and career of one of the city’s most famous sons, the Red Army General Mikhail Frunze, after whom the city was once named.

Its main exhibit is what is supposed to be the house in which he was born and brought up is preserved on the ground floor (although there is some doubt whether this is the right house – it is typical of the period), and there is an exhibition of the achievements of the city and Kirgizia during the Soviet period.

The museum is currently housed in a specially constructed building on Frunze Street, (also named in the general’s honour), which was built in 1967 - to commemorate the 50th anniversary of the revolution. The outside is decorated with bas-reliefs representing revolution and civil war theme in keeping with the main subject of the exhibits.

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LENIN MUSEUM The State The Historical Museum is located in the large marble “cube� in the main Ala Too square in Bishkek - behind the statue of Manas.

It was founded in 1925 in the building that was supposed to be the childhood home of Mikhail Frunze, and later moved to Dom Druzhba, (Friendship House), next to the square.

Until after Independence it was known as the Lenin Museum - named in honour of the revolutionary leader ... who was the subject of many of the exhibits, (including thousands of documents - either originals or copies - which illustrated his life, revolutionary activities, theories and the work of the Communist Party), which are still preserved although the collection was extended by acquisitions depicting the ethnic and natural sciences of the regions and discoveries made by archaeological expeditions in the region.

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MANAS TRANSIT CENTRE In recent years, many visitors to Kyrgyzstan have got no further than the airport – because they have been en route to or from Afghanistan and their itinerary has included a stopover at the Manas Transit Base, attached to Bishkek’s main Manas Airport, which has played host to many military transports involved in supporting the troops in Afghanistan.

Following the events of September 11th, 2001, Kyrgyzstan offered facilities to the America and the base was established shortly afterwards. A Russian Air base was also established at Kant, just to East of Bishkek, making Kyrgyzstan the only country in the world to house military bases from both of these superpowers.

The lease on the base expires in 2014 with the withdrawal of American forces from Afghanistan and it is planned to turn the base into a civilian transport hub.

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MARSHRUTKA RIDE In Bishkek, as well as a large number of private taxis, public transport is provided by bus services and trolley busses, but the main form of public transport is the Marshrutka.

A Marshrutka is a minibus, which plies a set route like a more conventional bus service. It is easy to think that the difference between them is one of scale – the buses seat some 40 or 50 passengers but the minibuses are smaller with less than half that number of seats. There is another important difference, however, in that whereas passengers alight and board a bus at a designated ostanovka, (Bus Stop), it is possible to flag down a marshrutka anywhere.

Marshrutka taxis also operate between towns, usually travelling between Bus Stations in each town.

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TSUM TsUM, (or ZUM Aichurek), is one of the main department stores, (Trade Center or Mall), in Bishkek.

The store was established in 1956 as part of a chain of shops throughout the former Soviet Union, run from Moscow by the Ministry of Trade, known as Central Universal Magazine. (In Russian, the word for Central is Tsentralniy, or Zentralniy ... Universal is the same in Russian and Magazine is the Russian word for “shop”). The shop was also known as the Frunze Department Store (or FDS) - Frunze was the name of Bishkek at that time. The first shop was located in Dershinski Park but the following year it moved to premises on what was then called “Stalin Street”, (later renamed as Prospect Lenin, and known today as Prospect Chui). It moved into the present six-storey building in 1974.

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SOVIET HERITAGE For more than 70 years in the twentieth century, Kyrgyzstan was a part of the Soviet Union. The Soviet Heritage is perhaps most evident in the monuments and memorials, (whether statues of Lenin, or War Memorials).

In addition, in addition to the symbolism of such monuments, there more practical examples: the grandiose buildings, (especially in larger towns), there is the extensive infrastructure, (for example, road, rail and air networks, and the hydroelectric dams along Naryn River).

are the the the

Then, there are more intangible aspects of the influence of this historical period in the development of this young country: the ethnic mix of the population; education and the intellectual life of the people; the catholic tastes of interest in music and the arts.

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SUPARA ETHNO-COMPLEX The complex on the outskirts of the capital, Bishkek, is concentrated in seven wooden and felt yurts, (traditional nomadic dwellings), set in a semi-circle. There are some stone houses standing higher up, watching over the river that runs behind the yurts.

Supara ethno-complex organizes few events during the year: Nauryz celebration, Beshbarmak festival, Kyrgyz National festivals (tusho toi, sunnet toi, kyz uzatu and etc), Kyrgyz games (ordo, arkan tartysh, chukir atmay, joluk tashtamay and etc).

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ALA ARCHA One of the sights often quoted as a “must not miss” highlight of a visit to the Kyrgyz Republic is Ala Archa. This is an alpine valley about an hour’s drive from the centre of Bishkek with spectacular scenery provided by the steep wooded mountain slopes. It is a favourite spot for the local citizens for a “day out” or a picnic.

The Ala-Archa gorge has more than 10 large glaciers, more than 50 mountain peaks (with 140 classified mountaineering routes of various levels of difficulty/complexity), and 30 mountain passes.

The Ala Archa National park was created in 1976 and occupies about 120,000 hectares. With snow-covered peaks, steep forested slopes, picturesque water meadows of the fast-flowing, noisy AlaArcha River.

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ALAMEDIN GORGE The Alamedin valley is one of the most striking features of the Kyrgyz Krebet, just South of Bishkek. From the village of Koi Tash, 30 km from Bishkek, the canyon narrows and the stream, (one of the main rivers flowing through Bishkek, cascades down to the Chui plain).

Beyond the Tyoplie Klyuchi, (Hot Springs), Sanatoria the vista opens out into a beautiful alpine valley with trekking routes over the mountains.

There are waterfalls, glades with berries, mushrooms, juniper and birch forests and views of glaciers and the Usechenko peak (4650m).

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ALTYN ARASHAN Altyn Arashan, (“Golden Spa”), is probably one of the most popular sites in Kyrgyzstan, although it is never crowded, and is renowned for its beauty but.

The valley leads up from Ak Suu, not far from Karakol, to a Spartan “hot spring” complex. The road is not an easy one; it is very steep in places, and requires special vehicles. It passes through pine forests, which contain many hidden springs (both hot and cold) with abundant wildlife and is a special botanical research preserve. There is a small museum with stuffed animals, typical of the region.

Above the resort are the Kyzyl Tash Cave and the peaks of the Ak Suu range, which rise to 5022m. It is possible to trek over the mountains to one of the neighbouring valleys.

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ARSLANBOB In the Jalal-Abad region of Southern Kyrgyzstan lie the walnut groves of Arslanbob.

Legend tells of a modest and earnest, hardworking man charged by the prophet Muhammad with finding a beautiful and comfortable place – a paradise on earth. He travelled through many lands until he found a picturesque valley with a foaming mountain river –but which lacks trees. Inspired by his reports, the prophet sent him a bag of seeds of many different types of fruit tree – including the walnut tree.

The hero climbed to the top of a mountain and spread the seeds over the valley transforming it into a “garden” which he tended for many years.

The village has a population of about 15,000 and stretches a long way up the valley, nestling on the hillsides – giving many of the houses spectacular views.

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BOOM GORGE At the eastern end of the Kyrgyz Range – converging together through this narrow canyon are a highway, a railway, and the Chu River.

Until the road was built, travelling through the gorge was a difficult journey, and it was thought that the Chui River was an outlet from Lake Issyk Kul, but it actually swings around the edge of the mountain range. Today, most people simply drive through and don’t stop, passing over “Red Bridge”, which crosses the river at the mid-point of the Gorge and onto Issyk Kul and noting the statues of snow leopards, eagles, stags and an occasional “pioneer” that line the road, and the walls designed to prevent landslides cascading down onto the road below.

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CAVES At the eastern end of the Kyrgyz Range – converging together through this narrow canyon are a highway, a railway, and the Chu River.

Until the road was built, travelling through the gorge was a difficult journey, and it was thought that the Chui River was an outlet from Lake Issyk Kul, but it actually swings around the edge of the mountain range. Today, most people simply drive through and don’t stop, passing over “Red Bridge”, which crosses the river at the mid-point of the Gorge and onto Issyk Kul and noting the statues of snow leopards, eagles, stags and an occasional “pioneer” that line the road, and the walls designed to prevent landslides cascading down onto the road below.

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DJETY OGUZ About 25km south West of Karakol is a lush valley with some striking red sandstone rock formations, which legend has it was where “Seven Bulls” were slaughtered in a ritual, and from which the valley takes its name, Djety Oguz).

The valley has another rock formation, which resembles a “broken heart” and legend says that this is the heart of a beautiful woman who died “of a broken heart” after two suitors killed each other fighting over her.

These two rock formations have almost become symbols of the Issyk Kul region and are favourite images for photographs and paintings.

Not far up the valley is the Djety Oguz sanatoria, built in 1932 and during the summer yurts are established in the valley. About 5 km south of the Jety Oguz sanatoria, is Dolina Svetov, (“Valley of the flowers”), a valley which is ablaze with colour in May when the flowers bloom.

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ENILCHECK GLACIER The Enilchek glacier snakes down from the clouds, nestling at the foot of Khan Tengri (“Prince of Spirits” or “Rider of the Sky” – 6995m) on the borders with Kazakhstan in the North and Peak Pobeda (Victory Peak, 7439m – the second highest mountain in the former Soviet Union) on the border with China in the South. Stretching for 60 kilometers and covering an area of over 583 square kilometers with ice, some of it as much as 540 meters thick – this glacier is one of the most famous in the world.

Actually, there are two branches that merge: the 32 kilometer long Northern Enilchek and the Southern Enilchek, which stretches some 61 kilometers. Nestled between the two is one of Kyrgyzstan’s greatest enigmas: The Mezbacher Lakes.

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GOLD Gold plays an important part role in the Kyrgyz economy and there are several large deposits found throughout the country. This is nothing new; there is evidence of ancient gold mines found throughout the country; in Talas, Osh, Chui, Naryn and Issyk Kul. Jewellery dating back to the first and second centuries BC has been found in Chatkal.

The Kyrgyz for gold is Altyn, which is also used as a boy’s name.

The Historical Museum in Bishkek has a display called the “The Gold Fund” which includes several notable archaeological finds such as the Shamsy Horde.

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GRIGORIEVSKIY GORGE There are a number of beautiful valleys in the Kungey Ala-Too Mountains (The “Sunny” Ala-Too Mountains) on the Northern side of Lake Issyk Kul. The largest and best known of these are Grigorievka and Semyenovka – some 30 kilometers from Cholpon Ata. Grigorievka, (also known as the Chon Ak Suu canyon), is a 32 kilometers long valley which emerges at a village of the same name on the main road that circles the lake. The slopes are covered with dense fir groves and littered with waterfalls. There are glacial lakes, and spectacular views of peaks and glaciers on the various trails over the mountains to Almaty, as well as a trail to Chon Kemin.

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KEGETI The Kegeti gorge lies about 90 kilometers to the East of Bishkek and is considered to be one of the most beautiful in Kyrgyzstan. Along the slopes of the valley are alpine woods and mountain meadows, which are home to numerous plants including herbs and berries as well a variety of mammals and birds.

Kegeti is famous for its waterfall, where the water drops some 20 meters down a cliff face, which is situated close to the road, which climbs up the valley.

The gorge provides many opportunities for either trekking of horse riding within easy reach of the road that climbs up the main valley is the famous Kegeti waterfall where the water falls so 20 meters over a cliff. A longer route goes to the Lake Kel Tor, (Dead Lake), and the jailoo, (summer pasture), of Bel Saz. 58

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KOCHKOR The market town of Kochkor is an ideal place for getting feel for the life of rural Kyrgyzstan, simply “soaking up the atmosphere” by walking along the main street that runs through the town; or spending some time in the main square which seems to be a hive of activity at all the day, (every day); or visiting the colourful market or the cemetery - with its eclectic collection of memorials – or the Regional Museum - with over 5000 exhibits in its nine rooms, (including a fine yurt, a collection of traditional Kyrgyz crafts and exhibits about local ‘soviet heroes). There are numerous homestays offering accommodation with a local family and Kochkor serves as a base for exploring the many surrounding jailoo, mountain meadows used to pasture flocks in the summertime – including Lake Son Kul. 60

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KONORCHAK CANYON The Konorchak Canyons are 125 km from Bishkek and they canyons stretch for nearly 200 km.

They were formed about one and a half or two million years ago and, since that time, erosion by wind and water has turned a plain plateau into a spectacular landscape with gigantic stone pillars, some of which are 400-500 meters high.

The canyons enjoy a mild microclimate and see almost no precipitation at any season of the year; if the air temperature in Bishkek is 20 degrees below zero, in the Konorchak Canyons it is +5 degrees.

One peculiarity of the Konorchak Canyons is that plants growing there tend to be very large – much larger than usual.

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SKAZKA GORGE Kyrgyzstan has a large number of Kurgans, (tumuli, or burial mounds), mainly in the Northern part of the country, along the Northern Branch of the Great Silk Road: around Lake Issyk Kul and along the valley of the Chui River - in the foothills of the Kyrgyz Range. They are characteristic of various Bronze Age peoples and have provided us with much information about civilizations that prospered in this area in ancient times.

The greatest concentration is at Kok Bulak in the Issyk Kul oblast, to the north of the main Bishkek-Balykchi road, where there are over 250 barrows dating from between the 6th century BC to the 10th century AD. The largest kurgan in Kyrgyzstan is at Darhan, a small village to the west of Kyzyl Suu in the Issyk Kul oblast. Known locally as Kara Dube, it is thought to be a royal burial site and dates from somewhere between the 6th and 4th centuries BC. It measures 100m in diameter and is 12m high.

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SUUSAMYR The Suusamyr valley is a high steppe plateau, some 2200 meters above sea level. Today, most foreign visitors simply pass through as they travel the main Bishkek-Osh road but the lush green grass has provided rich pastures for the nomadic Kyrgyz and their livestock for centuries and there are signs of early settlement dating back to between the 9th and 11th centuries. In Soviet times, this was one of the major sheep breeding areas in the country with up to four million sheep being driven over the mountain passes in spring to graze on the luscious grass.

Since 1991, the flocks of sheep grazing here have dwindled substantially and the people have diversified into other forms of agriculture – growing potatoes, garlic, cabbages and fodder crops.

In the summer, people still live in yurts and graze sheep and horses. The alpine summer pastures are full of herbs and wild flowers – carpeting the valley floor in many colours. The area is well known for its kumyz, airan (yoghurt) and honey.

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Nature

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AIGUL FLOWER The proper name for the Aigul Flower is Edward’s Pentilium and they are special in that they grow exclusively in a region around Batken in the south of the country. The only other place where they are found is in the mountains of Afghanistan.There is a legend of a Khan who ruled an area where paths of the Silk Road crossed, and he had an only daughter, Aigul. She loved the commander of the Khan’s army, Kozulan, who perished whilst fighting invaders. His soldiers brought her his heart and she, grieving, buried it and then threw herself off the top of a mountain. Where drops of her blood fell, beautiful flowers blossomed which are today known as Aigul’s flowers.

It takes several years for a plant to mature and flowers appear on the thin stem, (usually in late April and early May – around the time of the full moon). In the first year, there is only a single bloom, then a year later two flowers bloom, in the third year three bloom.

According to local people, examples of the “lunar flower” consisting of thirty flowers on one stem have been seen.

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BUTTERFLIES Kyrgyzstan, with its sandy and stony deserts, the powerful ridges of the Tien-Shan and Alai-Pamir, the spacious steppes of the mountain valleys cut by canyons of the rough rivers and extensive glaciers above high-mountain lakes, provides a diversity of environments and ecosystems creating a rich variety of habits for numerous specimens of fauna - including insects, the brightest specimens of which are butterflies - the “living flowers of nature�.

More than 300 species of butterflies inhabit the different ecosystems of the Central Asia. There are 18 species of apollos living in this region and 14 of the alfalfa butterfly (Colias), which is the greatest diversity of this species in any region in the world. New species are still being discovered. For example, in 2006 the entomological world was shaken by a sensation when a new specimen of apollo, the Parnassius davydovi, was discovered by the Russian entomologist S.V.Churkin in the Moldo-Too range of the Central Tien Shan. This was the first such discovery for the last hundred years.

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EDELWEISS Edelweiss originated in the steppes of Asia and/or the slopes of the Himalayas, migrating west into Europe sometime during the Ice Ages. There is over thirty different varieties altogether. In Austria and Switzerland, (where they are the national flower), they are specially protected as they are thought to be quite rare and even endangered. The name is derived from the German words edel, (meaning “noble”) and weiss, (meaning “white”), although the flowers themselves are actually yellow. (The “furry” white petals which give the plant its name, are actually leaves covered in a sort of fuzzy fur of fine white hairs which form a sort of pointed star). The flower heads are used in folk medicine as an herb and are thought to be efficacious in the treatment of abdominal and respiratory problems.

The plant carries many symbolic interpretations and associations – usually with courage and love, such as in the legend which tells of a bold suitor who put his own life in danger climbing a steep rock face to pluck the white flower as a gift for his beloved.

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FISH Among the 54 species of fish found in Kyrgyzstan, 38 of them indigenous and 16 introduced into the waters of Kyrgyzstan, into Lakes Issyk Kul, Son Kul and the various reservoirs and in some cases, this has had a serious effect on the populations of local indigenous species.

The greatest diversity of species is found in Issyk Kul and the larger rivers, depending on the water flow and number of different habitats available. Only a few species are found throughout the country and most lakes feature only two or three species, which are mostly small and not commercially important whilst Chatyr Kul has no fish at all.

Fishing is possible on many of the mountain streams and is an important activity on Lake Issyk Kul. The name of the town at the Western end of the lake, Balykchi, is the Kyrgyz equivalent of the town former Russian name – Riybachie – that loosely translates as “Fisherman”. (Ryba is the Russian word for fish.).

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HORSES The horse occupies a major role in many traditional cultures. They have a special place in the traditional lifestyle and culture of the Kyrgyz people as a symbol of wealth and for their practical use to a nomadic people. They are valued for their physical strength, their endurance and their stamina.

There is even a Kyrgyz breed horse that, although small, was renowned for its stamina and hardiness , barely working up a sweat whilst forcing their way through snow banks and up icy slopes - essential qualities for negotiating the rugged mountainous terrain.

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HORSE RIDING The horse is a major feature of Kyrgyz culture. Young boys learn to ride almost as soon as they can walk. It is not surprising, therefore, that horse riding tours, or itineraries with opportunities for some horse riding are popular. Many people say that the best way to see Kyrgyzstan is from the saddle. A horseback trip can last anything from a couple of hours (for example: in one of the valleys south of Bishkek or around a yurt camp in Son-Kol or Tash Rabat) to several days.

A horseback trip gives the opportunity to experience the magnificent landscapes of the wild countryside, visiting more remote locations away from the crowds that inhabit the sprawling modern cities and popular resorts. he leisurely pace of travel will also enable the traveler to experience what travel along the ancient Silk Road must have been like many centuries ago - to get a feel for the authentic Silk Road and to follow in the footsteps (or “hoof prints�) of more recent travelers Semyenov and Prezhervalsk or the Swiss journalist Ella Maillart.

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RAFTING Kyrgyzstan has a wide range of rivers, which provide the possibility for challenging routes for those with all skill levels, from novice to experienced. There are quiet rivers, flowing through beautiful mountain landscapes, as well as rapids of different levels of difficulty.

The level of difficulty on each river can vary depending on local conditions, such as the amount of melt water descending from the thawing glaciers. At the height of the summer, the water level of some rivers can actually vary on a daily basis.

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SKIING Kyrgyzstan is a mountainous country –and where there are mountains, there is almost inevitably snow. Snow is provides a variety of attractions: as well as being aesthetically pleasing, and offering opportunities for taking beautiful photographs, snow attracts skiers, snowboards and the like.

The slopes of mountains that comprise the Tien Shan range provide many opportunities for skiers to indulge their passion in Kyrgyzstan and there are several ski-bases in various places around the country against a variety of backdrops. Heli-skiing opens an even greater variety of locations, including the possibility of exploring virgin slopes.

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SNOW LEOPARD Tigers and cheetahs once roamed through the forests of Kyrgyzstan – but the Snow Leopard, (Bars or Ilbirs), is the only example of the “Big Cats” still to be found in Kyrgyzstan. They are extremely athletic, capable of making huge leaps over ravines, and can bring down prey almost three times their own size.

They are listed in the Red Data Book as an endangered species, although they are to be found in 12 of the countries of Central Asia – in isolated areas from Afghanistan and Tibet to Lake Baikal. It’s not known exactly how many specimens there are, it was estimated that the former USSR was home to about 1000 specimens, (from a total world population of 7000), and Kyrgyzstan was thought to have the largest population in the former USSR. 86

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TAIGAN The Taigan - or Kyrgyz Borzoi - is a rare breed of dog. This breed is embedded in the history of the Kyrgyz people, accompanying the nomadic herdsman and hunters. Working dogs, they rely on their sight to locate prey, but this is also combined with a keen sense of smell.

An adult will measure between 50 and 70cms, with a long, thick coat and “feathering� on the ears, thighs, tail, shoulder and front legs as it strikes an impressive pose. The head is tapered and lean, with large oval eyes, (usually hazel in colour), slanting eyelids and small triangular ears which hang down in a pendant style; a long, narrow muzzle, leading to a black nose Although the breed is not officially recognized for international showing, there are a number of dedicated breeders and it possible to enter them in competitions in Russia and the Baltic states.

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TREKKING The countryside of Kyrgyzstan offers many opportunities for walking whether it be as a short “hike” lasting just a few hours or an “extended trek” lasting several days, or even weeks; a stroll in an alpine valley to a demanding and extreme adventure.

There’s a variety of landscapes from open steppes to mountain paths under snowcapped peaks and crossing glaciers; climatic zones the mild climate of Northern Tien Shan to the hot sunny climes of Southern Kyrgyzstan; a vast range of fauna and flora from the jailoo (high mountain pasture meadows) to walnut forests.

In short, there is something for everyone whatever their physical condition or level of experience; “Just pick a range – there’s plenty to choose from…”

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WATERFALLS As you might expect, the rivers and mountain streams of Kyrgyzstan are rich in waterfalls.

There are too many of them to mention them all but examples include in the Kegeti and Barskoon valleys, in Arslanbob and two called Pigeon’s Waterfall (Goluybini Vodopad), near Bishkek, the Abshir Sai waterfall, (in Southern Kyrgyzstan emerges gushing from a cave in the rock face falling 30 m to the valley floor). and the “Look for me” waterfall near the Sarala Saz jailoo, (near Kochkor), called that because it is well hidden amongst the rocks that it is possible to stand within a few meters of it, hear the rushing water, but not be able to see it.

Many of the waterfalls freeze over winter providing a dramatic and artistic photo opportunity.

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WILD LIFE Kyrgyzstan is rich in both flora and fauna; although it occupies only about 0.04% of the world’s surface area – about 2% of the world’s species of flora are found growing here and about 3% of the animal kingdom is represented.

Many of the species are endangered and featured in the Red Book of Kyrgyzstan.

The Tiger, which once roamed the slopes of the Tien Shan, disappeared in the early part of the twentieth century and it is an open question how many other species will follow in its wake.

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Mountains

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MOUNTAINS Kyrgyzstan is a small landlocked mountainous country.

The Mountains form the backbone of the country; over 94% of the country lies above 1000 meters above sea level and 71% above 2000 meters. (Generally – anything above 1500 meters is counted as mountainous). In particular, the country boasts a number of 7000-meter peaks, several of which have been climbed only in relatively recent times – and many virgin peaks – yet to be climbed.

There are over 88 major mountain ranges in Kyrgyzstan, most of them forming the Tien Shan System.

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KHAN TENGRI Khan Tengri, (the Prince of Spirits or Ruler of the Skies), is a dramatic mountain peak that sits astride the Kyrgyz-Kazakh border, and near to the Chinese border. The local name for the mountain is Kan Tau (= “Blood mountain”) – perhaps because of the burning red colour it adopts at sunset, or perhaps because of the numbers of climbers that have died in attempting to climb the peak.

An attempt was made to climb the mountain in 1929, with the first successful ascent coming two years later. Buried on the peak is a capsule containing messages from previous climbers who have reached the summit, (written in pencil - it is impossible to write in ink) with his name, and the date of the ascent.

Despite the number of casualties experienced over the years, many mountaineers still seek to make the ascent and there are now several well-established routes to the summit 100

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LENIN PEAK Lenin Peak in the Osh oblast lies on the border with Tajikistan, rising to a height of 7134m making it the third highest mountain in the former Soviet Union. Shaped something like a “high armchair”, however, the outline is not always obvious because the summit is usually covered in cloud.

The first ascent of the summit was made in September 1934 by a team of three mountaineers who erected a statue of the Communist leader Lenin – the highest in the world, with a spectacular backdrop of high snow covered peaks and ridges.

The mountain now has a reputation as a high altitude “walk-up” (easy climb) and so is popular with climbers – it is one of the most climbed 7000 m mountains in the world.

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TORUGART The Torugart Pass is a remote mountain border crossing between Kyrgyzstan and China at an altitude of 3752m. It is one of two land border crossings, (the other being Irkeshtam), following the routes of the ancient trading network known as Great Silk Road.

Technically, the border crossing is closed to foreign citizens and although it possible to arrange a crossing there are restrictions. The border post is closed at weekends and on Public Holidays in both countries and even on the days when it is open, if closes for a threehour lunch break.

Despite the restrictions, it still provides one of the region’s most spectacular border crossings.

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VICTORY PEAK Victoria Peak, (Peak Pobeda in Russian and Jengish Chokusu in Kyrgyz), is one of three 7000-plus meter giants in Kyrgyzstan. At 7439 metres, it is the highest mountain in the Tien Shan range, which straddles Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and Northwestern China.

Covered by huge masses of ice and snow, weather conditions can make ascents difficult as persistent, strong, cold winds (called “Thousand Devils”) can whip up snowstorms – and have been known to rip tents to shreds. .The peak is often obscured by clouds and, over the years, has often been confused with its neighbor, Khan Tengri – from which it is separated by the Enilchek glacier.

The first attempt to ascend to the summit of the mountain was made in 1938 by a team of mountaineers – but it is not clear if they actually succeeded. They named it “Peak 20 years of Komsomol” – in honour of the Communist youth movement.

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Lakes

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LAKES There are almost 2000 lakes in the Kyrgyz Republic, with a combined area of 6836 sq. km. Most of them are small mountain lakes, located at altitudes between 2500 and 4000 meters above sea level and were formed because of glaciations.

The largest is Lake Issyk Kul, (Warm Lake), and other notable lakes are Son Kul, (Last Lake), Chatyr Kul, (Heavenly Lake), and Sari Chelek. There are also the enigmatic Merzbacher Lakes.

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ISSYK KUL Issyk Kul is Kyrgyzstan’s largest Lake and, at about 180 km long by 70 km wide, 1606m above sea level and 668 meters deep at the deepest point, (the average depth is about 300 meters), it is the world’s second largest mountain lake and the fifth deepest lake in the world. Known locally as the “Pearl of the Tien Shan”, it is ringed by mountains, (the Kungey Ala Too, (the “Sunny” Mountains), to the North and Terskey Ala Too, (the “Shady” Mountains), to the South, which offer both a spectacular backdrop and protection from the extremely hot and cold, winds that sweep across the steppes to the North.

The name, Issyk Kul is Kyrgyz and means “Warm Lake” but that is not necessary a reference to the temperature of the water, even though there are a number of hot springs in the area. Instead, it refers to the fact that, unlike most mountain lakes, it never freezes over.

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CHATYR KUL Chatyr Kul lies in the Ak Sai valley, near to the Chinese border. With a surface area of 175 square kilometers, (23 kilometres long at it’s maximum length and with a maximum width of 10 kilometers). It is a shallow lake, (only 2-3 meters deep for the most part), although at its deepest point, it descends 16.5 meters. The shoreline slopes gently into the lake except in the North where limestone cliffs come close to the shoreline.

The name “Chatyr Kul” means “Celestial Lake”, “Heavenly lake” or “Lake on the Roof” in Kyrgyz. That seems appropriate as it is surrounded by mountains and lies at an altitude of 3530 meters above sea level, which makes it Kyrgyzstan’s highest mountain lake.

Fed by the Kok Aygyr river and with no outflows, there are no fish in the lake, although there are some fish in some of the inflowing streams, there are no fish in the lake itself, however, there are some freshwater shrimp.

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MERZABACHER LAKE An expedition led by the German explorer Gottfried Mezbacher, in 1903, discovered a large lake, about six kilometers long and a kilometre wide, between two branches of the glacier, with the surface studded by floating icebergs. While the group was still in the vicinity – the lake suddenly drained.

It is now known that the lake appears each year and then, quite suddenly drains sometime during July or August – and nobody knows why this happens.

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SALT LAKE Salt Lake, or Myortvoye Ozero, is a small saline lake on the southern shore of Lake Issyk Kul, cut off from its larger neighbour by sandbars, which form small hills; dusty, rocky, outcrops covered by shrubs.

The lake has no outlet and, like other salt lakes such as the Dead Sea in Israel, (Myortvoye Ozero means Dead Lake), and evaporation leaves a high concentration of mineral salts in the water, which provide buoyancy that supports the weight of a person lying on the surface.

It is claimed that the waters are particularly therapeutic and many of the bathers, lying on the beaches that surround the lake, besmirch themselves with mud whilst some of the local people even claim that drinking the waters is good for treating certain ailments.

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SARI CHELEK Lake Sari Chelek, (which means “Yellow Bucket�), in the south west of the country, was formed long ago when a rock fall blocked the course of a river in a mountain valley. It is flanked by steep wooded slopes, topped by snowcapped peaks, and fed by many fast flowing mountain streams. This freshwater lake is often thought to be the most beautiful in the country.

The lake, some seven and a half kilometers long, a kilometer and a half wide and 234 meters deep, is the centre of a National Park, which was created to protect and research the pristine natural landscape, which provides a habitat for a diverse range of wildlife. Access is strictly controlled.

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SON KUL Lake Son Kul, (the name means, The Last Lake), lies at 3016 meters above sea level in the Central Tien Shan mountains on a treeless plateau ringed by lush mountain meadows, (which make excellent summer pastures for the nomadic Kyrgyz and their livestock), and craggy mountain peaks.

The beauty of the lake has enraptured both locals and tourists alike.

There is a story that when one of the local Khans, Ormon Khan, saw it for the first time he imposed a fine of forty horses, (no small sum – then or now), on the local tribe because they had hidden such a miracle from him!

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TOKTOGUL The road of the main Bishkek-Osh highway sweeps round the eastern section of the Toktogul reservoir, created in 1974 after 14 years of construction work on the Toktogul Dam was completed and the Ketmentube valley was flooded. Some 26 communities were displaced and relocated along the main road, which was forced to swing round the Eastern end of the reservoir when the valley was flooded, and archaeologists completed several excavations of barrows dating from the 8th and 9th centuries.

The southern reaches of the reservoir (just North of the town of Tash Kumyr) is in the form of a flooded canyon which is about 0.3-2 km wide – and can reach as much as 100 m deep. Elsewhere there are many shallow areas with abundant vegetation, which serves as a habitat for wildlife. The reservoir, dam and power station are named after the famous Kyrgyz akyn, Toktogul Satylgan uulu (1864-1933).

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People

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CBT (COMMUNITY BASED TOURISM) The concept of Community Based Tourism is based on activities which aim to include and benefit the local communities that accept tourists, particularly indigenous peoples and villagers, (for example, the villagers might provide accommodation, local guides, horse riding and other services, managing the project and then sharing the profits), whilst providing the visitor the opportunity to visit “out of the way places�, meet people from different cultures in their homes and to experience their culture and lifestyle in ways which are not on the traditional tour itinerary.

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FELT Felt is a traditional material used by Kyrgyz craftsmen and women over the centuries, There are many stories about its origins, for example, telling of travelers putting wool into their shoes and then, at the end of their journey, discovering that the woolen fibres had matted together into a single sheet fabric. In a time honoured process that has changed little over the centuries, (if at all), raw wall is washed and brushed clean and then laid out on a mat made from long straws of Chiy grass, which is then soaked and rolled up into a cylinder and tied to keep it firm. The whole family will gather and help as the roulette is then rolled, pressed, kicked and dragged behind a horse until the fibres are compressed and packed together into a single sheet.

The wool can be dyed in different colours, and combined to make patterns as in the traditional Ala Kiyiz carpets. Sheets of coloured felt can also be cut into shapes, which are then stitched together as in the traditional shyrdak.

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HOLIDAYS Kyrgyzstan has what seems to be an eclectic collection of public holidays - at least until one considers the history of the country and it’s peoples.

The list includes the Zoroastrian festival of Nauruz, one Christian festival, (Orthodox Christmas); two Muslim festivals, (Orozo Ait and Kurman Ait); former holidays held over from the former Soviet Union, (Army Day, International Women’s Day, International Workers’ Day - May Day, and the Anniversary of the October Revolution); and commemorations of important events in the life of the new republic, (Independence Day, Constitution Day).

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HORSE GAMES To the Kyrgyz, a horse is a prized possession, and horsemanship a much-prized skill. Perhaps, therefore, it is not surprising that among the most popular national pastimes, or sports are contests on horseback – all of which help to train skilled horsemanship – so that warriors can learn the secrets of horsemanship and combat on horseback.

Today they are often an integral part of a holiday or a big celebration, games like Ulak Tartysh or Kok Buro - where two teams fight for possession of a goat’s carcass, a game; Oodarish – wresting on horseback; Tyiyn Enemi – picking up coins at a gallop; Jumby Atmai – archery from in the saddle or the romantic Kyz Kumai – where the horseman chases a girl on horseback in order to “steal a kiss”.

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HUNTING WITH EAGLES Hunting with the eagles is an ancient tradition that dates back to the Mongol conquest of Central Asia around the 12th and 13th centuries, when a fine eagle and good horse cost the same price and both lent prestige to their owner.

Hunting takes place riding a specially trained horse, (called a bercut).

To allow a rider to carry an eagle a special device (a baldak) is fitted onto the saddle to support the rider’s arm.

Sent out to hunt fawns, foxes, or other small animals, the eagle dives down on them and kills them. Sometimes the eagles hunt in pairs, just as they would in the wild.

A skilled pair, berkutchi (hunter) and bird, can typically catch 50 or 60 foxes a dozen badgers, a couple of lynx and 4 or 5 wolves in a normal 4 month season, which starts in the late autumn. Eagles rarely fail to catch their prey, which it quickly kills, usually by breaking the neck in its powerful claws.

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KALPAK The Kalpak, (more properly called the Ak Kalpak, or “white Kalpak”), is the traditional hat worn by Kyrgyz males of all ages and is one of the symbols which help to identify the Kyrgyz. (It has even written “what the baseball cap is to the Americans, the Kalpak is to the Kyrgyz”.)

There are different styles of Kalpak, but usually it is made from four panels of white felt with traditional patterns stitched into them as decoration, which can be folded flat for storage and when not being worn.

The kalpak is the “holiest” of national clothing for the Kyrgyz there are many traditions and sayings associated with it, such as: You must not kill a man with a kalpak on; Kalpaks cannot be put on the ground; Kalpaks are laid next to your head at night, never by your feet.

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KURAK Kurak is the name given to the traditional craft of patchwork – sewing together several textile fragments.

Kurak is much more than just a way of reusing scraps and “making something out of nothing”, , however, as the items were imbued with mystical significance, bringing luck and prosperity and guarding against evil spirits. For example, the kyrk koinok – a shirt for newborn babies to wear after 40 days – would be made from 40 pieces of material collected by the mother from neighbouring yurts and sewn together.

Kurak also allowed for a wide variety of individual expression – although many of the designs involve geometric forms and regularity, proportion and symmetry – the use of colour, shape and intricacy gave each tailor the chance to demonstrate their skills.

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KYRGYZ CINEMA Kyrgyzstan may not spring to mind whenever there is discussion about the Cinema and the film industry. This may be understandable as very few films made in Kyrgyzstan reach the West, and those that do are normally restricted to various specialist festivals.

There is, however, a film industry and, even though they do not produce high-budget “blockbusters”, the Kyrgyz Film Institute has long had a reputation in the countries of the former Soviet Union for producing interesting and challenging films.

That reputation is being maintained by a new generation of producers in the newly independent country, despite facing many problems – such as the lack of finance.

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Salamatsyzbi

(Hello)

KYRGYZ LANGUAGE Chon rahmat

(Thank you)

Sau bolynyz

(Good bye)

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Kyrgyz is one of a number of closely related Turkic family of languages, (along with Kazakh, Uzbek, Uighur, Mongolian, Tatar and, of course, Turkish, itself), and is the official State Language of Kyrgyzstan – where Russian has the status of an Official Language. Nowadays, Kyrgyz speakers can be found in China (mainly in the Xingjian-Uighur Autonomous region), Western Mongolia, Kazakhstan, Tajikistan, and Uzbekistan and even as far afield as in Afghanistan, Turkey and Pakistan.

For many centuries, there was no written form of the language and, over the years, it has used the Latin, Arabic and Cyrillic alphabets; today, Kyrgyz is written in a modified form of Cyrillic, which was introduced in 1940.

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KYRGYZ MUSIC Music has always played an important role in the traditional nomadic lifestyle of the Kyrgyz. Music making was not a “spectator sport�; almost everyone in a family group would play an instrument or sing.

Instruments like the Komuz - a three stringed type of lute which is often used as a Kyrgyz national symbol, the temir komuz - often called a jaws harp, or the chopo choor, (a clay pipe), were simple, being made from natural materials which were ready to hand and easy to transport, but can be remarkably versatile in the range of sounds produced.

There were songs for every occasion: love songs, ballads, work songs, lullabies, celebratory and ritual music. Special reverence was given to the Akyn, a sort of traveling minstrel, skilled in improvisation who would also be assured of a warm welcome wherever they went.

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KOMUZ The Komuz is a very old traditional Kyrgyz stringed instrument, (mentioned in Chinese Chronicles written over 2000 years ago), made from a single piece of wood, (apricot or juniper are the favoured timbers), and plucked like a guitar.

There are a number of legends about the origin of the komuz. One tells of a Kyrgyz hunter, Kambarkan, who knew the “language” of many birds and wild animals, so that he could recognize them each by their voice. Once, when he was in the forest, he heard a new and wonderful sound. He decided to investigate and discovered two branches of a tree connected by the dried intestine of a squirrel. The sound seemed to emanate from that “string”. “Perhaps,” he thought to himself, “she had tried jumping from one branch of the tree to another, but cut herself open”. Anyway, he took the string and a piece of wood from the tree and fashioned for himself a musical instrument – the Komuz ... and he became known as the Father of Melody.

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MANASCHI If the story of Manas is central to Kyrgyz traditional culture and character, psychology and spirit, then the Manaschi holds a special place of respect in Kyrgyz Culture.

The manaschi, (traditionally they are always men – although some women have taken to narrating the story as well), alternates between a rapid declamatory style when narrating information, and a strongly rhythmic recitative for depicting dialogue and direct quotation. They use dramatic gestures, changes in tone, pitch and facial expressions as an integral part of their performance – employing all to hold the attention of the audience.

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RUH ORDO Kyrgyzstan sits astride some of the routes that made “The Great Silk Road” and saw a variety of many different peoples, religions and cultures. Along the shores of Lake Issyk Kul, both Genghis Khan and Tamerlane had residences. Many of the world’s religions were once celebrated here, especially: Buddhism, Islam and Christianity.

The Ruh-Ordo Tashkul-Ata Cultural Centre, on the northern shore of Lake Issyk Kul was established in 2002 as a cultural “theme park” to commemorate and celebrate the historical heritage of the region, as a modern-day meeting place for peoples of all nationalities, faiths and cultures.

In Kyrgyz, the name means “spiritual place” and the large, attractive, parkland incorporates Buddhist, Christian and Islamic places of worship.

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SHYRDAK Shyrdak - is a stitched, and often colourful felt carpet, (which is also sometimes used as a wall covering), usually handmade in Central Asia.

Kazakhs and Kyrgyz alike traditionally make shyrdaks, but especially in Kyrgyzstan, the traditional is still alive.

Traditionally the rugs have been made by women and the process is both slow and labour intensive. It takes the wool from approximately five sheep to make one shyrdak rug, which is picked clean, washed, dried and then dyed. The Shyrdak is usually designed with high contrast colours such as red and green, yellow and black or brown and white. This creates a stunning positive/negative style of visual imagery and the pattern is usually full of symbolic motif images that represent things taken from the surrounding environment, (such as water, goat horns, a yurt etc.) The felt that is cut from the top layer is not wasted but is used to create another mirror image shyrdak with the reverse colours of the original.

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TUNDUK The tunduk is the name given to the frame forming a ventilation hole in the rook of a yurt – the traditional dwelling of the nomadic Kyrgyz.

It also an essential symbol of the Kyrgyz and was chosen as part of the emblem to represent the nation on the country’s flag.

The tunduk is partially covered with a felt mat, called a jabuu, which in the daytime and in clear weather is folded back, whilst in the cold or rainy season can shut tightly against the hole in the roof and so preventing wind and rain from penetrating into the interior. When a new yurt is dedicated, then a sheep’s head is thrown through the Tunduk for “good luck” – a sign of prosperity.

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YURT The yurt is the traditional dwelling of the nomadic peoples of Central Asia - including the Kyrgyz.

Felt is used to cover a circular wooden frame is topped with wooden poles that form the roof. At the top of the yurt is a Tunduk, or opening, which is used for ventilation.

The yurt is still in use by people throughout the region and plays an important role in the lifestyle of the Kyrgyz “chaban”, or shepherd, and although styles of architecture and city planning come and go, the yurt remains a stable and lasting link with the past.

Although most Kyrgyz now live in high-rise apartment blocks, they have a special affection for the yurt. Often, on a birthday, a yurt will be set up and guests invited to the “dastarkhan” - a “holiday table”.

The yurt is also a place where the Kyrgyz gather for the funeral of their relatives.

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Cuisine

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KYRGYZ CUISINE Whereas Kyrgyzstan has been a melting pot of different peoples, (for example, travelers along the great Silk Road or migrants from other parts of the Russian Empire or the Soviet Union) each bringing with them their own cultures and cuisine which have been adopted in the country, traditional Kyrgyz cuisine has changed little over the years.

Meat, for example, is central to Kyrgyz cooking; the nomadic way of life did not allow for the growing of fruit and vegetables.

One of the most essential features of Kyrgyz cuisine is that dishes should preserve their taste and appearance. For example, apart from a few exceptions, there are almost no dishes comprising puree, minced, or chopped meat and dishes tend to have a plain taste.

Sauces and spices are used in only small batches, although spices are used more often in the South. Sauces are intended only to bring out the taste of the dish – not to change it.

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ARASHAN BALSAM The Arashan Balsam is a liniment or aromatic preparation made from a selection of herbs, which is used to relieve pain, colds, flu and a host of little everyday ailments. The nomadic Kyrgyz collected many herbs from the jailoo, (high mountain meadows), and used them for many different purposes: culinary, dying fabrics as well as medicinal.

The exact recipe is a closely guarded secret, but the ingredients apparently include a variety of over twenty different herbs, berries, grapes, barberry, black cherry, buckthorn, oak bark, pomegranate, red and blackcurrants, rosehip, sage, wormwood, and walnuts, mixed with honey, oils, mineral water … and infused with brandy giving it an alcoholic content of over 40%.

It was famous amongst the Russians and was considered a “visiting card” of the republic, even being taken into space by cosmonauts.

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BESHBARMAK Beshbarmak is, perhaps, the most typical of all Kyrgyz dishes.

The dish is meant to be eaten with the hands, not with a knife and fork! – In Kyrgyz, Besh means five, and barmak means finger. Beshbarmak is served when guests arrive and at almost any festive gathering. This meal consists of noodles, which are mixed with boiled lamb cut into tiny pieces and served with a medium spicy sauce. Bouillon is then poured over the mixture.

Generally, a sheep is slaughtered, butchered and boiled in a large kazan (a large round pot) for a couple of hours. The bones with the meat still on them are then distributed to the assembled gathering, usually in accordance with a specific hierarchy – for example, the oldest people and honoured guests are presented with the choicest bones first. Some of the meat is diced and mixed with boiled noodles.

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BOORSOK Boorsok are pieces of dough, deep fried in boiling oil, like doughnuts – and can be served with jam, smetana (sour cream), tvorog (curd cheese), or eaten plain.

A light, golden brown finger food, they are definitely “moreish”, they are a traditional table “decoration”, produced in large quantities and piled high on plates or simply spread over the dastorkan or table at every major celebration. An abundance of Boorsok is seen as a sign of generosity.

Boorsok go well as an accompaniment with almost any meal or eaten separately with tea as a form of biscuit.

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FRUITS The markets of Kyrgyzstan often amaze visitors with the vast array colours and varieties of sweet, succulent and fragrant fruits that are available, such as: apples, pears, apricots, rhubarb (which is technically a vegetable), plum, prunes, cherry, tomatoes (which is technically a fruit although more often than not treated as a vegetable), berries such as rowan, buckthorn, barberry, hawthorn, currant, and raspberry strawberry, and nuts such as walnut, almond, peanuts (groundnuts) and pistachio.

The roadside stalls selling mountains of melons (watermelons, honeydew and a host of other exotic varieties) and other fruits are a common sight on a trip, for example, from Bishkek to Issyk Kul. 170

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HERBS Because the mountains of Kyrgyzstan provide so many different climatic zones, it is rich in vegetation of many different types. There are wide variety of herbs growing throughout the country and a growing industry in harvesting them for culinary and medical purposes.

Herbs have long been used by nomads, and herbal medicine is still popularly used in these days of antibiotics and expensive propriety medicines. It is possible, however, that much traditional knowledge about which herbs to collect; their uses; where to find them; how and when to collect, sort, process (clean – wash/steam), dry and store has been lost as many Kyrgyz have adopted a settled lifestyle in towns and cities.

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KUMYS To some people kumys is just fermented mare’s milk, but to the Kyrgyz it is a symbol of their nationhood – a gift from god from which they derive energy and inner strength, as can be seen in their proverbs such as: “Who drinks Kumys will live a century” and “Kumys is man’s blood, air is his mind”. It is considered to have medicinal qualities.

The traditional way of making kumys is for mare’s milk to be stored in animal skins (a “chinach”), which have been cleaned and smoked over a fire of pine branches to give the drink a special smell and taste; it is allowed to ferment in the warmth of the yurt and then churned, beaten with a wooden stick, (a “bishkek” – from which the capital of the Kyrgyz Republic takes its name).

Mildly alcoholic (about 2% proof), bitter and is often described as “an acquired taste”.

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MAKSYM Maksym, (also known as Jarma), is a traditional drink made by the nomadic Kyrgyz from wheat flour and splintered barley. It has been a part of the staple diet of Kyrgyz nomads over the centuries. Rich in minerals (like salt), vitamins – especially those classified as part of the Vitamin B family – and is a considered to be a very healthy drink.

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WALNUTS The walnut tree is probably not a native of this region, (it probably came here from further Southeast, possibly as far away as Malaysia).

Alexander the Great and his army discovered it in Central Asia, however, and sent specimens back to Greece, where it thrived. To this day, the walnut is known in Russian as “Greek Nuts” – an irony not lost on the local populace. The trees grow in the South of the country, perhaps the most famous spot where they are found is in Arslan Bob but they found throughout the region.

The trees have a large spreading crown and the nuts can fall at harvest time creating a carpet of nuts. The nut has a very high calorific value. The timber from the tree is a valuable commodity – selling on the world market at the same price as silver. The burl is sought after by cabinetmakers all over the world. This has led to a large amount of controversy, as areas of woodland have been denuded to take advantage of this valuable crop.

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Heritage

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BALBAL Balbals are small stone figures, (statues, statuettes), which can measure anything from half a meter tall to two meters.

Some scholars suggest that they might have been grave markers, and this is supported by the fact that excavations have shown that many of them appear to be on ancient gravesites.

Virtually all the full figure depictions show a person holding a bowl in their raised right hand, (a typical symbol of welcome in the region), but some examples show the character holding a weapon in their left hand - or tucked into a belt, (possibly suggesting combat, or a military campaign, rather than a symbol of hospitality).

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BURANA TOWER Some 10km south of Tokmok, the Burana Tower is all that remains of the ancient city of Balasagun, set at the foot of the Shamshy valley.

The city was established in the 10th century on the site of an older settlement, and was the birthplace of the philosopher and poet Jusup Balasugyn who wrote an epic poem called Katadgu Bilig, (“The knowledge which brings happiness�), which has been translated into several languages.

The tower itself is thought to have been a Minaret and is the site of a museum complex which, in addition to the tower, includes reconstructions of mausoleums found on the site, a mound that is all that remains of the palace/citadel; a collection of balbals, (grave markers used by nomadic Turkic peoples who used to roam Central Asia), petroglyphs, (paintings on stones) and a small museum.

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CHOLPON ATA Cholpon Ata is the largest town on the northern shore of lake Issyk Kul, about half way along, (some 250km from Bishkek), and the centre of the region’s “resort zone”. In summertime, during the Soviet period, large numbers of tourists would descend with their “vouchers” for a stay in one of the nearby sanatoria or tour resorts. Although the sanatoria are still here and still offer medical treatments, the range of facilities has changed and developed over the years since Kyrgyzstan became an independent country.

One of the major sites of interest is the “Open Air Museum”, (sometimes referred to as a “Stone Garden”), to the north of the town’s airport.

It covers some 42 hectares and contains a number of prehistoric monumental structures (stone circles, tombs, the remains of a boundary stonewall, balbals and petroglyphs dating from the second millennium BC up to the Middle Ages). Some of the more interesting stones have plaques giving some information, (a short description and a date). The stones vary in size from about 30 cm to 3 meters.

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CHINGIZ AITMATOV Chingiz Aitmatov, (1928-2008), was a famous Kyrgyz author one of the few from Central Asia to obtain international renown.

He wrote in both Russian and Kyrgyz and his works have been translated into English and other European languages. Recurring themes throughout his work are the cultural heritage of the Turkic peoples and how modernity is depriving man of his individuality.

As well as writing books like Jamila, Farewell Gulsary, The Day Lasts More Than a Hundred Years and The White Ship, he also worked in Films and became a diplomat, serving as the Ambassador to Belgium and the European Union.

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DUNGAN MOSQUE The Dungans first arrived in Karakol, as refugees, in 1877 and created a small community. Between 1907 and 1910, Chinese architect and 20 artisans built a mosque in the town for the community, entirely of wood and without a single nail.

The Bolsheviks closed the mosque from 1933 until 1943, but it was then reopened and has operated as a place of worship since then.

The Mosque is set into its own territory and the distinctive decoration (it is painted in bright colours – red, green and yellow – and bears reliefs depicting various types of flora and mythical animals such as dragons and the phoenix) that give it an original character. There is a veranda by the entrance to the large central space.

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ISSYK ATA Issyk Ata, one of the valleys in the Kyrgyz Range of Mountains to the South of Bishkek, has numerous warm spring springs, (hence the name which means Warm Father), that have attracted visitors and pilgrims throughout the ages in search of their curative powers.

There are legends associated with the place, a Tibetan inscription and a drawing of the Buddha said to date from the tenth century.

Kyrgyzstan’s first Sanatoria was built in the valley and one still operates here today.

The jailoo, (mountain meadows), on the slopes of the upper reaches of the valley are covered in rich vegetation and are home to herds of horses.

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KARAKOL Karakol is the largest town in the Issyk Kul region, and the local administrative centre. It lies at the eastern end of the lake, at the foot of the Terskey Ala Too Mountain range.

It owes its location to officers of the Russian Imperial Army, who decided in 1869 that it was an ideal site to garrison a force, (an infantry battalion, a mountain battery and a troupe of some two hundred Cossacks), in what was to become a far-flung corner of the Tsarist Empire. Settlers soon followed the army. As well as being a garrison town and regional centre, Karakol also served as the base camp for several expeditions into the Tien Shan and across into China, including those of the nineteenth century Russian explorer, Nikolai Prezhervalsky, who died and was buried here.

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KARAKOL CHURCH There is picturesque Orthodox Church in the city center and a Dungan (Chinese) mosque built by a Chinese architect and 20 artisans between 1907 and 1910. It was built entirely of wood, without a single nail.

The Holy Trinity Cathedral in Karakol is a fine example of a Russian Orthodox Church.

Built on the site of an earlier church, erected in 1876, the current building was constructed between 1890-5. During the construction, a yurt served as a church for local population. The building consists of wooden walls on a stone foundation, and it is highly decorative, although the five onion domes, which used to adorn it, were destroyed in the Soviet period when it served as a dance hall and as a school.

Inside are a number of icons including some saved from Svetly Mys, and a copy of one of Saint Troitzy by Andrei Rublev, (who lived in the 13th Century). It has now been returned to active service as a church and some reconstruction was begun in 1961.

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KURMANJAN DATKA Kurmanjan Datka - (1811-1907) - an outstanding stateswoman of the Kyrgyz Republic . She also known as “The Tsarina of Alai”, and “Queen of the South”. The word Datka means “General” and she was awarded the title twice.

During the subsequent continuing unrest and sporadic attempts by the local population to shake off Russian supremacy, gun-running and smuggling were profitable businesses and two of Kurmanjan’s sons and two of her grandsons were charged with contraband trade and murdering customs officials. When her favourite son was sentenced to death, she refused the urging of some of her followers to effect a rescue, saying that she would not let her private hopes and ambitions be the cause of suffering for her people; she actually attended her son’s public execution. The others were then exiled to Siberia and she essentially retired from public life.

A commemorative stamp depicting her has been issues, and in 2002 a book about her was published in three versions – Kyrgyz, Russian and English. In 2004 – a statue of her was erected at the foot of Prospect Erkindik in Bishkek.Her portrait appears on the 50 som banknote.

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KURGANS Kyrgyzstan has a large number of Kurgans, (tumuli, or burial mounds), mainly in the Northern part of the country, along the Northern Branch of the Great Silk Road: around Lake Issyk Kul and along the valley of the Chui River - in the foothills of the Kyrgyz Range. They are characteristic of various Bronze Age peoples and have provided us with much information about civilizations that prospered in this area in ancient times.

The greatest concentration is at Kok Bulak in the Issyk Kul oblast, to the north of the main Bishkek-Balykchi road, where there are over 250 barrows dating from between the 6th century BC to the 10th century AD. The largest kurgan in Kyrgyzstan is at Darhan, a small village to the west of Kyzyl Suu in the Issyk Kul oblast. Known locally as Kara Dube, it is thought to be a royal burial site and dates from somewhere between the 6th and 4th centuries BC. It measures 100m in diameter and is 12m high.

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KOSHOI KORGON Not far from the town of At Bashi, about three kilometers from the main road, lie the ruins of Koshoi Korgon, a small, rectangular citadel dating from sometime between the 10th and 12th centuries and once would have been fortified with towers and which held a commanding position from which it could control much of the traffic between China to the South and Naryn to the North.

Although set back at some distance from the modern road, the ruins can be seen by travelers on their way either to, or from, Torugart, however, they are much more impressive seen close up. Although it is set on the floor of a wide valley, and is somewhat dwarfed by the nearby hill which rises a few kilometers to the North, the 5 meter high clay walls, (in places, they reach a height of 8 meters), stretch for more than 1000 meters.

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MANAS Manas was a hero of the Kyrgyz, a protector and champion of his people, whose story is told in the Manas Epic; the world’s longest epic saga - longer than Home’s Iliad and Odyssey – and serves as a symbol of and an inspiration for the Kyrgyz people.

The narrative of the epic revolves around his exploits in trying to carve out a homeland for his people and fighting off the opposition of neighbouring hordes.

The complete epic is an encyclopaedic collection of folk myths, fairytales, legends, songs and poems which have been combined and grouped together in a trilogy - each part describing the heroic deeds and struggles on the heroic character - “Manas”, “Semetei” (his son) and “Seitek” (his grandson).

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NARYN Naryn is a long, thin town that straddles the fast flowing Naryn River and is set between high, steep cliffs. The modern town of Naryn was founded in 1868 as a Russian garrison town, and much of the current town is post-war. It still houses an army base and headquarters for the customs at Torugart.

Naryn can be very cold, especially at nights. In fact, it is known as the coldest town in Kyrgyzstan and temperatures in winter have been known to fall to -40째C. The average annual temperature is -6째C. In summertime, however, the days can be very hot and dusty.

The city mosque (which was finished in 1993), was financed by Saudi Arabia and has a distinctly Arabian design.

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OSH Osh is the second largest city in Kyrgyzstan and is sometimes called the “Southern Capital” of the country. If the claim that the city is 3000 years old is correct, then it would also be the oldest city in Kyrgyzstan, and, (as another claim that is often heard), has it, would be “Older than Rome”.

In the centre of the city is Suleiman Too (“Solomon’s mountain”), which dominates the city skyline and was included in the UNESCO list of World Heritage sites in 2009. At the top of a short climb is a flagpole and a mosque built in 1497 by the 14 year old Babur who went on to become the founder of the Mogul dynasty in India.

The city’s bazaar is famous as one of the most picturesque in all of Asia, stretching for about a kilometre along the bank of the Ak Buura River which runs through the city.

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PETROGLYPHS The word Petroglyph comes from the Greek petra = “stone” and glyphe = “to draw”. It is used to describe pictures drawn or etched onto stones. These drawings, left for us on high rocks and in deep caves can provide evidence of the way of life and the environment of times gone by when there was no system of writing. Some of them are over 2000 years old and depict animals, agricultural activities, traditional ritual dances, as well as symbolic representations of the sun.

There are many examples of petroglyphs found throughout Kyrgyzstan – most notably at Cholpon Ata and Saimaluu Tash.

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PRZHEVALSK MUSEUM Nikolay Przhervalsky was a famous Russian explorer who made several journeys into Central Asia but, (although he almost made it), he was never to achieve his life’s ambition of reaching Lhasa in Tibet.

It was while preparing for another expedition that he contracted Typhoid and he settled down in the area overlooking the lake to die in the Military Hospital at Karakol.

Now there is a museum dedicated to him on the site of the house that he had built, a little less than 10 kilometers from the centre of the city, on the Mikhailovka inlet. Six years after his death in 1888, a monument and small chapel were built by the side of his grave, and then in 1957 the Soviet authorities constructed the present museum and gardens.

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SAIMALUU TASH High in the mountains of the Fergana Range is the plateau of Saimaluu Tash, which is sometimes called the Stonehenge of Central Asia. The name means, “Embroidered stones” in Kyrgyz – which aptly describes the scene, a reference to the fact that there are thousands of stone paintings, petroglyphs, which are littered around the landscape; over two moraine slopes some three kilometers long.

Some of the drawings date from about 2000 BC and represent votive offerings brought by locals from the valleys to be nearer the heavens.

There are images of animals, carts, agricultural activities such as ploughing and traditional ritual dances. The number of solar images suggests that sun worship was the common religion in the region.

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SILK ROAD Despite the name, The Great Silk Road was not a single route but rather an extensive network of trade routes that eventually connected the mysterious orient in the East, (usually associated with China, but also included the Indian Sub-continent, Japan and Korea), with Europe in the West. Most of the routes were overland, but there were also thriving sea routes. During the Middle Ages, the land routes lost their importance and the sea-lanes came to dominate the trade routes.

Although Silk was indeed one of the products traded on these routes, there were many other luxury and exotics traded in both directions.

Ideas, (religious, philosophical and scientific), and other cultural aspects were also transferred and it has been suggested that it could just as appropriately have been called the Ideas Road.

Some of the Northern branches of the Silk Road passed through Kyrgyzstan.

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SULEIMAN TOO Suleiman Too is a hill the heart of the city of Osh, dominating the city’s skyline. It is just over a kilometer long and half a kilometer wide and rises 175m above the bustling city centre, which surrounds it.

The name, (Solomon’s Mount or Solomon’s Throne), is a reference to the legend that the city was founded by the Biblical King, but the Mogul Emperor Babur refers to it as Bara Kukh in his memoires.

A path around the mountain takes visitors past the several sacred sites scattered among its five peaks, including the mosque (built by Babur), as well as a number of petroglyphs, and a museum.

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SUNKEN CITIES During recent years, there has been a flurry of archaeological activity, especially in the Issyk Kul region. In particular, there have been a number of “underwater” expeditions in Lake Issyk Kul. Historians have known for some time about “sunken cities” lying beneath the waters of the lake. Apparently, there are more than ten such towns and numerous kurgans (burial places).

A little offshore is the sunken village of Chengu – “red valley” – the capital of the ancient Usun State in the second century B.C. – and as the waters of the lake receded, it is thought that the village will soon emerge from the depths.

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TAMGA TASH Tamga Tash, (which means “letter Stone” in Kyrgyz), is in the hills about six kilometers above the town of Tamga, on the Southern shore of Lake Issyk Kul. On the southern side of the rock is a slightly worn inscription of a Buddhist Mantra.

This is just one piece of evidence of the existence of Buddhism, which was widespread across Central Asia in the days of the Great Silk Road. It presents us with an enigma in that nobody knows exactly when the inscription was made, but it is written in Tibetan and the Mantra, (which is still chanted by Buddhists to this day, expressing the wish for all to reach enlightenment), is known to be about 1500 years old.

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TASH RABAT Tash Rabat is a carefully restored stone building that was once a caravanserai, (an inn), on the Great Silk Road, not far from the Chinese border. As well as serving as a caravanserai, legends suggest that at different time it might possibly have served as a fortress and a monastery. According to one travel writer, it is one of the bestpreserved Silk Road sites to be found. “No other retains as much of its original atmosphere�.

Set into the hillside of a beautiful side valley in the foothills of the At Bashi range of the Tien Shan Mountains, the caravanserai has a domed roof over a large room surrounded by a number of smaller chambers.

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UZGEN In the ancient Silk Road city of Uzgen, on a bank high above the Kara Darya river, there is an architectural complex containing an eleventh century minaret- one of the oldest in Central Asia - and three mausoleums joined together as a single building which date from the eleventh and twelfth centuries – which appear on the reverse side of the 50 som banknote.

The Minaret reaches twenty-seven and a half meters into the sky and is divided into three parts: an octagonal base, a tapering cylindrical middle section and a “lantern” fitted with a cupola at the summit.

Made of brick, it is decorated with belts of embossed bricks.

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A MAP OF KYRGYZSTAN

A MAP OF ISSYK KUL LAKE

INDEX 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

About Kyrgyzstan Bishkek Ala too square Bishkek Cathedral Dordoi Bazaar Frunze Museum Lenin Museum Manas Tranzit center Marshrutka ride Tsum

4 14 16 18 20 22 24 26 28 30

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40

Soviet Heritage Supara Ala Archa Alamedin Gorge Altyn Arashan Arslan Bob Boom Gorge Caves Djety Oguz Enelychek Glacier Gold Grygorevkoe Gorge Kegeti Kochkor Konorchak canyon Skazka Gorge Susamyr Aigul Flower Butterflies Edelweiss Fish: Horses Horse Riding Rafting Skiing Snow Leopard Taigan Trekking Waterfalls Wildlife Montains

32 34 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56 58 60 62 64 66 70 72 74 76 78 80 82 84 86 88 90 92 94 98

41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71

Khan tengri Lenin Peak Torugart Victory Peak Lakes Issyk Kul Chatyr Kul Merzbacher Lake Salt Lake Sari Chelek Son Kul Toktogul CBT Felt Holidays Horse games: Hunting with Eagles Kalpak Kurak Kyrgyz cinema Kyrgyz language Kyrgyz Music Komuz Manaschi Ruh Ordo Shyrdak Tunduk Yurt Kyrgyz Cuisine Arashan Balsam Beshbarmak

100 102 104 106 108 112 114 116 118 120 122 124 128 130 132 134 136 138 140 142 144 146 148 150 152 154 156 158 162 164 166

72 73 74 75 76 77 78 79 80 81 82 83 84 85 86 87 88 89 90 91 92 93 94 95 96 97 98 99 100

Boorsok Fruits Herbs Kymyz Maksym Walnuts Balbal Burana Tower Cholpon -ota Chingiz Aitmatov Dungan Mosque Issiyk ata Karakol Karakol Church Kurmanja Datka Kurgans Koshkoi Kurgan Manas Naryn Osh Petroglyphs Prizhevlasky Museum Saimalu Tash Silk Road Suleiman too Sunken cities Tamga Tash Tash Rabat Uzgen

168 170 172 174 176 178 182 184 186 188 190 192 194 196 198 200 202 204 206 208 210 212 214 216 218 220 222 224 226

THIRTEEN STEPS TOWARDS THE FATE OF ERIKA KLAUS

by Kazat Akmatov This novel is the most recent book by internationally acclaimed author and National Writer of Kyrgyzstan, to be translated into English.

Based on a real incident which occurred in his country some ten years ago, it also references Akmatov’s own conflict with USSR officials, who accusing him of producing anti- Russian and anti-Communist literature, censored much of his early work at the beginning of his career.

The story involves the harrowing experiences of a young and very naïve Norwegian woman who has come to Kyrgyzstan to teach English to schoolchildren in a remote mountain outpost. Governed by the megalomaniac Colonel Bronza, the community barely survives under a cruel and unjust neo-fascist regime. Immersed in the local culture, Erika is initially both enchanted and apprehensive but soon becomes disillusioned as day after day, she is forbidden to teach. Alongside Erika’s story, are the personal tragedies experienced by former soldier Sovietbek , Stalbek, the local policeman, the Principal of the school and a young man who has married a Kyrgyz refugee from Afghanistan Each tries in vain, to challenge and change the corrupt political situation in which they are forced to live Akmatov is a gifted storyteller, whose writing is imbued with a passion for his homeland and concern over the oppression of his people. Thirteen Steps is strongly flavoured with sensitive and often poetic descriptions of the magnificent landscape, wildlife and traditional customs, such as eagle hunting, natural medicines, weddings, herding and horse polo, as well as more brutal references to the trafficking of young women, the exiled existence of Kyrgyz expelled from their country under Soviet rule, the extremity of corruption amongst the new leaders, and the employment of torture and murder as means to an end.

This is a book designed to both charm and shock on many levels, and one which will undoubtedly be read again and again by its audience.

ISBN: 978-0957480766 Paperback / English Price: 9.95 GBP available on www.discovery-bookshop.com, www.amazon.co.uk, www.amazon.com

FRIENDLY STEPPES: A SILK ROAD JOURNEY

by Nick Rowan This is the chronicle of an extraordinary adventure that led Nick Rowan to some of the world’s most incredible and hidden places. Intertwined with the magic of 2,000 years of Silk Road history, he recounts his experiences coupled with a remarkable realisation of just what an impact this trade route has had on our society as we know it today.

Containing colourful stories, beautiful photography and vivid characters, and wrapped in the local myths and legends told by the people Nick met and who live along the route, this is both a travelogue and an education of a part of the world that has remained hidden for hundreds of years.

Friendly Steppes: A Silk Road Journey reveals just how rich the region was both culturally and economically and uncovers countless new friends as Nick travels from Venice through Eastern Europe, Iran, the ancient and modern Central Asia of places like Samarkand, Bishkek and Turkmenbashi, and on to China, along the Silk Roads of today.

ISBN: 978-0955754944 Paperback / English Price: 14.95 GBP

available on www.discovery-bookshop.com, www.amazon.co.uk, www.amazon.com

WHEN THE EDELWEISS FLOWERS FLOURISH

by Begenas Sartov The author frequently explored the tension between Soviet technological progress, the political and social climates and Kyrgyz traditions in his work, and When The Edelweiss Flowers Flourish depicts an uneasy relationship between two worlds. Using the science fiction genre, the novel’s main character is Melis – derived from Marx, Engels, Lenin and Stalin – who has his counter in Silem, an alien being sent to earth to remove Edelweiss plants to help save his own planet from a deadly virus.

The essence of the story was attributed by Begenas to a childhood experience when a village elder helped him recuperate from breaking his arm, using a herbal mixture of seven grasses. These grasses – Edelweiss, Ermen, Ak kadol, Shyraajyn, Oo koroshyn, Kokomirin and Shybak – are still found in the high Kyrgyz mountains today, and are still widely used for their medicinal properties.

ISBN: 978-0955754951 Paperback / English / Kyrgyz Price: 12.95 GBP (each)

available on www.discovery-bookshop.com, www.amazon.co.uk, www.amazon.com

MUNABIYA & SHAHIDKA

by Kazat Akmatov Recently translated into English Akmatov’s two love stories are set in rural Kyrgyzstan, where the natural environment, local culture, traditions and political climate all play an integral part in the dramas which unfold.

Munabiya is a tale of a family’s frustration, fury, sadness and eventual acceptance of a long term love affair between the widowed father and his mistress.

In contrast, Shahidka is a multi-stranded story which focuses on the ties which bind a series of individuals to the tragic and ill-fated union between a local Russian girl and her Chechen lover, within a multi-cultural community where violence, corruption and propaganda are part of everyday life.

ISBN: 978-0-9574807-5-9

available on www.discovery-bookshop.com, www.amazon.co.uk, www.amazon.com

Hotel ALPINIST

Kyrgyzstan

Bishkek

113 Panfilov Street, Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan Tel.: +996-312-699 621 Fax: +996-312-595 647 E-mail:alpinist@elcat.kg www.alpinist.centralasia.kg