DESTINATION

iting, even swimming in, what remains of the southern Aral Sea should arrange a 2-3 day organised trip from Nukus, camping at a spot overlooking the sea or staying in the yurt camp of Bes Qala Tours.

To visit the archaeological remains of Khorezm’s ancient civilization is best arranged by driving either from Urgench to Nukus or vice versa. About 100 miles, this journey can be organised to include visits to: several kalas, or forts, en route (i.e. the remnants of Khorezm’s ancient civilisation), a traditional meal served in a Karakalpak yurt, and a manageable climb and panoramic view from the famous Chilpik Dhakma, a 2,000-yearold Zoroastrian Tower of Silence, a 45-minute drive south of Nukus.

Karakul sheep raised in the Kyzlkum desert. Industry, though limited, includes light manufacturing, refineries that process oil from nearby petroleum fields, and several building-materials plants that exploit the gypsum, limestone, marble, and quartzite of the area.

Against this background, there are three main reasons to add to the conventional Uzbekistan tourist itinerary (Tashkent, Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva) a visit to Nukus and Karakalpakstan: to view the environmental disaster that is the Aral Sea, to visit the archaeological remains of Khorezm’s ancient civilization, and to admire the Savitsky Collection of Karakalpak folk art and of early 20th century Russian and Central Asian avant-garde art at the Karakalpakstan State Museum of Art named after I.V. Savitsky

To view the environmental disaster that is the Aral Sea involves a 2-3 hour drive from Nukus to Muynaq, which 50 years ago was a thriving fishing port on the southern shore of the world’s fourth-largest inland sea. Now, it is a ghost town where skeleton ships lie broken in the desert. Adventurous travellers interested in vis-

Finally, to admire the Savitsky Collection of Karakalpak folk art and of early 20th century Russian and Central Asian avant-garde art you need at least a half, preferably a full, day visit to the Karakalpakstan State Museum of Art named after I.V. Savitsky in downtown Nukus. This unique museum, the Louvre of Uzbekistan, holds the second largest collection of Russian avant garde paintings after the Russian Museum in St. Petersburg. In addition, the museum also contains a gallery of Karakalpak Folk Art including traditional embroidery, jewellery, printed and stitched leather, and carved and inlaid wood.

In summary, Karakalpakstan has a unique and rich cultural heritage. It includes ancient architectural and archaeological monuments, folklore, performing arts, ceremonies, and customs, as well as traditional handicrafts. Even a one-day visit, comprising an early morning 90-minute flight from Tashkent and a late evening return flight from Nukus, is sufficient for a visit to Nukus town and specifically the Savitsky Museum.

David Pearce Retired from the World Bank, David Pearce lived and worked in Kazakhstan and Uzbekistan for seven years between 1994-2003. He was also Chairman, Friends of Nukus Museum from 2007-19.