l!!!!;;;~~
Harley-Davidson. Inc.
SERVICE MANUAL XL/XR Models 1000cc 4-Speed 1979 to 1985
Part No. 99484·85
FOREWORD This service and repair manual has been prepared with two purposes In mind. First, It will acquaint the reader with the construction of the Harley-Davidson product and assist him in performing basic maintenance and repair, Secondly, It will Introduce to the professional Harley-Davidson mechanic the lalest field-tested and factory-approved major repair methods. We sincerely believe thai this manual will make your associat ion with Harley-Davidson products more pleasant and profitable.
HOW TO USE YOUR SERVICE MANUAL Your Service Manual Is arranged for quick, easy reference. This manual Is divided Into numbered sections. Sections are then divided Into subjects. Use this manual as fol lows: 1.
Check the TABLE OF CONTENTS located in the Iront 01 each section to lind subject desired.
2.
Page number Is listed across I rom subject. Page number consists 01 section number and page number.
3.
Information Is presented In a definite order as follows: Troubleshooting Adjustments Removal Disassembly Cleaning, Inspection and Repair Assembly Installation
SERVICE BULLETINS In addition to the information given in this Service Manual , Service Bulletins are issued to Harley-Davidson Dealers from time to time, which cover interim engineering changes and supplementary information. Service Bulletins shou ld be consulted for complete information on the models covered by this manual.
USE GENUINE · REPLACEMENT PARTS WARNING When replacement parts are requi red, use only genuine Harley-Davidson part s or parts with equi valent characteristics Includi ng type, strength and material. Failure to do so may result in product malfunction and possible Injury to the operator and/or passenger.
NOTE
To ensure a satisfactory and lasting repair job, follow the manual instructions carefully and use only genuine Harley·Davidson replacement parts. Behind the emblem bearing the words GENUINE HARLEY-DAVIDSON is more than three·quarters of a century of deSigning, research, manufacturing, testing and inspecting ex· perience.
All Information for servicing a part should be read before repaIr work Is started to avoid needless disassem bly.
This is your insurance that the parts you are using wilt lit right, operate properly and last longer. When you use genuine Harley-Davidson parts, you use the best.
In figure legends, the number following a name 01 a part indicates the quantity necessary lor one complete assembly.
PRODUCT REFERENCES PREPARATION FOR SERVICE Proper preparation is very Important for efficient service work. A clean work area at the start of each jOb will allow you to perform the repair as easily and quickly as possible, and reduce the Incidence of misplaced tools and parts. A motorcycle that is excessively dirty should be cleaned before work starts. Cleaning will occasional· Iy uncover trouble sources. Tools, Instruments and parts needed for the jOb should be gathered before work Is started. Interrupting a Job to locate tools or parts is a needless delay. Special tools required for a job are listed at the end of SECTION ONE. WARNING Gasoline Is extremely flammable and highly explosive under certain conditions. Always stop engine, and do not smoke or allow open flame or sparks when refueling or servicing the fuel system.
When reference Is made In this manual to a specific brand name product, tool or Instrument, an equivalent product, tool or instrument may be used in place of the one mentioned. All tools mentioned In this SERVICE MANUAL with HD or J preceding the part number must be ordered through: Kent-Moore Tool Division 29874 Little Mack Roseville, Michigan 48066
Loctite Products Some procedures in this manual call for the use of Loc· tite products. If you have any questions regarding the correct use of the lOctlte products or where to obtain them, please call loctlte Corp. at '·203·246·1223. L
WARNING
CAUTION
Follow the directions listed on all loctite products. Read all labels, warnings and cautions carefully before using.
Means there is the possibility of damage to the vehicle. We recommend you take special notice of these ilems. WARNING
CONTENTS All photographs and illustrations may not necessarily depict the most current model or component, but are based on the latest production information available at the time of publication, Since product improvement is our continual goal, Harley-Davidson Motor Co., Inc., reserves the right to change speci fications, equipmen t, or designs at any time without notice and without incurring obligation.
WARNINGS AND CAUTIONS Statements in this manual preceded by the words WARNING or CAUTION and printed in bold face are very important. WARNING Means there is the possibility of personal injury to your· self or others.
Proper service and repair is important for the safe, reliable operation 01 all mechanical products. The ser· vice procedures recommended and described in this Service Manual are effective methods for performing service operations. Some of these service operations reo quire the use of tools specially designed lor the purpose. These special tools should be used when and as recommended. It is Important to note that some warnings against the use of speclfic service methods which could damage the motorcycle or render it unsafe are stated in this Ser· vice Manual. However, please remember that these warnings are not all inclusive. Since Harley·Davidson could not possibly know, evaluate and advise the service trade of all possible ways in which service might be done or of the possible hazardous consequences of each way, we have not undertaken any such broad evaluation. Accordingly, anyone who uses a service procedure or tool which is not recommended by Harley· Davidson must first thoroughly satisfy himself that neither his nor the operator's safety will be jeopardized by the service methods selected.
Harley-Davidson products are manufactured under one or more of the following patents: U.S. Patents - 2986162, 2987934,2998809,3116089,3144631,3144860, 3226994, 3229792, 3434887, 3559773, 3673359, 3709317, Des. 225 626. II.
TABLE OF CONTENTS SECTION 1 . PRODUCT
Page No.
,.,
........... 1·' Service .. Servicing a New Motorcycle . . .......••.•. Safe Operating Maintenance. , .... ,. , ., Regular Service Intervals . . ........ '·2 ..... '·19 Storage .. Removal from Storage ...... 1-19 Fluid Requirements. ... 1-19 Metric Conversion Table ......... •• . ... '·21 ....... ,·22 Torque Specifications.
Troubleshooting . ... .. .... ..... Engine. lubrication Service Electrical System. Carburetor. Transmission Clutch
Page No.
Rear Brake Master Cylinder Sprocket Cover and Brake LinkaQe Brake Pedal Adjustment . DIsc Brake Calipers .. Front Caliper Foam Tape InstaJiation Front Brake Caliper (1984·1985) .. Rear Caliper (1982 - 1985) . Brake Discs .. Bleeding the Hydraulic Brake Syslem Stoplight Fran! Brake Switch. Stopligh t Rear Brake Switch.
.... ,,2·32 ........ 2-35 .... 2·37 .2·38 . .. 2·40 · .2-40 . ..... 2-43 .2·45 ...... 2·45 · .2·45
.. ... '·23
. .......... 1·23
Front Forks . .. ,. ' ·24 . '-24 .. 1-24 .•.•.••...•...... 1-24
Brake. Handling.
General Changing Fork 011 Fork Sides ... Fork Stem .
.... . '·25 . ... 1-25
Rear Fork . .. '·27
Disassembly. Cleaning and Inspection. Assembly.
SECTION 2 . CHASSIS
Rear Shock Absorber .
Specifications .
.2·'
Adjusting Spring .. Removal. Disassembly. Cleaning and Inspection. Assembly.
Tools .
Dimensions. . .... 2·' Weights. . ..... 2·' Vehicle Weight Ratings . . .2-1 Capacities. .2-1 Adjustments. , .... ,.... . . .2-' Torques . ., .. , .. 2·1 Brake Disc. . ..... 2·1 Tire Data . . ............. 2·2 Vehicle Identification Number(V.I.N.). . .......... 2·2 Tires. . .2·2
Wheels General Front Wheel RearWheel . Lacing Wheels· 16 in ...........• Lacing Wheels· 19 in. . ... , ....••. Truing Laced Wheel. Checking Cast Rim Runout . Tires.
. ..... 2·47 ... 2·47 .... 2·47 .2·47 . .... 2·50
.... 2·5 .. . .... 2·5 ... , .2·6 ......... 2·9 . ..... 2·15 ....... 2-16 ... 2-17 .... 2-20 ..... 2-20
.......• •• . • • , ... .... 2·25 Brakes . ......... . 2·25 General. .......... 2·25 Troubleshooting. Front Brake Master Cylinder. . .... 2·26
. ..... 2·53 · ,2·53 .2·54 . ... 2·54
· .2·55 · .2·55 · .2·55 .... 2·55
. ..... 2·55 ..2·55
Handlebar Controls and Instruments .. 2·57 Throttle Control - 1979·1980 . Throttle Control - 1981 and Later. Clutch Hand Control Speedometer, Tachometer . Handlebar Switch Assembly. .
. ... 2-57 .2·58 ..... 2·61 . ...... 2-63 . ... 2·63
Fenders ..
. ...... 2·65 ..... 2·65 · ,2·65
Front Fender. Rear Fender
Specifications (XR·1000) . . .. 2·69 Dimensions (XR·1QOO) ...... 2-69 Weight(XR-l000). . ..... . . . ....... 2·69 . .2·69 Vehicle Weight Ratings (XR·l000). Capacities (XR·l000) .. 2·69 Adjustments (XR-l000). . .2·69 Torques (XR-l000). . .. 2·69 Brake Disc (XR·l000) .... 2·69 Tire Data(XR·l000) ....... .. . . . . .. .. .. . . ..... 2·69
ill.
Page No.
Page No.
Wheels (XR·l000) . . .. . .......... . .. . .. . .. 271
General ... . ....... . .... . .. .... .. . .. . ....... . 3·43 Checking Flywheel End Play. . . .... . .. .. 3·43 Disassembly. . .. . .. 3·43 Flywheels . ... . .. . .. . .. . .... ... . . . . .. . .... .. . 3-44 Assembly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .... 3-52
. . .. 2·71 Front Wheels (XR·1000) ...... • . . . ••... Rear Wheels (XR·1000) . . . . .. . .... . ..... . .. 2·71
Brakes (XR·l000) .
. . . .. 2·73
Front Brake MasterCylinder(XR·1000) . .. . ....... 2·73 Front BrakeCaliper(XR·1000) .... . ........... . .. 2·74
Handlebar Controls and Instruments (XR·l000) .
. . .U7
Throttle Control (XR·1000) . . ... . .. . ....... 2·77 Clutch Hand Control (XR·1000) .. . .... . ..... . .. . . 2·77
.3·1
Generallnformalion . . . . .. . .. . .. . .... . .. . .. . .. . . 3·5 Description. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ........ 3·5 Gasoline .. . ....... . .. . ............. . ....... . . 3-5 Lubrication . . . ... . . . .. . ..... . .... . .. . . .. . . .... 3-5 Repair Procedure. . .......... 3·10 Stripping Motorcycle for Engine Repair . . . ..... . .. 3·11
. .. 3·15 Cylinder Head . ........... . . . ....... 3·15 Removal. Disassembly . . . . 3-16 Cleaning and Inspection. . .... 3·18 Replacing Rocker Arm Bushings .... . .. 3·18 . .... .. . .. . .... . .. 3-18 Va lve Guides . Replacing Valve Guide .... 3·19 . .... 3·20 Refacing Valve. . . . .. .... . .. 3·20 Refacing Valve Seat. . ...... 3·21 Valve Seat Inserts. Cylinder Head Assemb ly. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . . 3·22 Cylinder Head Installation . . . ....... . .... . .. 3·22 Adjusting Tappets...... . ..... . .... . . .. .3·22 Push Rod Removal and Installation. . . .. . .... 3·23
Engine (XR·l000) ....... . .. . .. . .. . .... . ... 3·57 General Information (XR-l000) ............ . .. . .. 3·57 Lubrication (XR-1000) ... . ....... . ........ . ..... 3·57 Stripping Motorcycle for Engine Repair (XR·l000) . . 3·60
Removing (XR·l000) . . ... 3-63 Disassembling (XR·l000j . . . . . 3·63 Replacing Rocker Arm Bearings (XR·l000) .... . ... 3-63 Replacing Valve Guides (XR-1000) ... . . . .. . ...... 3-63 Refacing Valve Seat (XR-l000) . . .. .. . 3-65 Replacing Valve Guide Seals (XR·l000) .... . .. . ... 3-66 Valve Seat Inserts (XR-l000) .. . ..... . .... . ..... . 3·66 Push Rods (XR-l000) . . 3·66 Assembling Rocker Cover and Installing (XR·1000) .3·66 Installing Cylinder Head (XR·l000) . . .. 3·67 . .. . 3·67 Valve Clearance Adjustments (XR·l000) .
Cylinder and Pistons (XR·l000) .
Gearcase (XR·l000).
.. 3·71
Valve Tappets and Guides (XR.l000) . .. . 3·71 Gearcase Cover and Cam Gears (XR·l000) ........ 3·71 Replacing Needle Bearings and BUShings (XR-1000) 3·74 Gearcase Assembly (XR-l000) . .. .. . . .. . ........ 3·75
Crankcase(XR·l000) ..... . ..... . .. . .. . .. 3·77
Oil Pump. Valve Tappets and Guides. Gearcase Cover and Cam Gears . Oil Filter.
Crankcase . iv.
. . . .... . .. .. . 3·77
.. 3·25
Removal . . . . 3·25 . . . .. . .. . .... 3·25 Cleaning and Inspection. Refinishing Cylinder . ... . .. . . 3-25 Fitting Piston Rings . . . . .... 3·27 Connecting Rod Bushing. . . .......... . .... 3-28 Assembling Cylinder and Piston. . .. .. . ... . 3-29
Gearcase .
. . 369
Removing (XR·l000) . . .... 3·69 Fitting Cylinder to Piston (XR·l000) ..... . .... . .. . 3·69 Fitting Piston Rings (XR-1000) .... . ..... . ....... . 3·70 Assembling (XR·l000) .. ..... 3·70
Fitting Rod Bearings (XR·1QOO) .
Cylinder and Piston
.. .. . .. . 3·55
Cylinder Head (XR·l000) .. .. . .. . .... . .. .3·63
SECTION 3 - ENGINE Specifications .
Specifications (XR·l000) .
. . . .... 3·31 . . 3·31 . . . 3·35 . ..... . . 3-38 .3-42
. .. 3·43
SECTION 4 . FUEL SYSTEM Specifications
. . . ... 4·1
Jet Sizes Fuel Tank Capacity Torq ues ............ . .. . ... . .
Carburetor General Operat ion Adjustments . .. . . . .... . . Removal. ... . .... • .
... . .. 4·1 . . . 4·1 . ....... 4·1
. .. . .. . .... • .. .. . . 4·3 .. . .. 4·3 . . .. .. . . ....... .. .. 4·4 . . .. . .. .• . . . . .. . 4·7 . . . .. . 4·8
Page No.
Page No.
Disassemb ly. Troubleshooting. C!eaning, Inspection and Repair Assembly Installat ion.
Air Cleaner . Genera l . Servicing Air Cleaner. Removal Inspection and Repair Inslallatlon ..
Fuel Supply Valve General Removal . Cleaning, Inspection and Repair Installation
. ... 4·8 .4·9 ........ 4·11 4·16 .4·16
4·17 . .... . 4·17 4·17 4·17 ... 4·18 4·18
· .4·19 .4-19 .4-19 ........ 4·19 4· 19
Electric Starter System 1979-1980 ...... 5·' Specifications Description . Troubleshootmg Starter Relay Starter MOlor Solenoid Starter Drive Shalt and Housing .
...... 5·1 5,
5·' 5·' ... 5·2 5-5 . .. 5-7
Electric Starter System 1981 -1985
Electric Starter System (XR-l 000) Fuel Tank . Genera l Removal . Cleaning , Inspection and Repair . Installation.
· .4·21 ...... 4·21 4·2 1 4·21 4·21
Carburetor (XR-t 000)
........ 4·25 General (XR-l000). 4·25 Operation (XR·1000) . . ....... 4·25 Adjustments (XR-l000). 00 . ... 4·32 Removal (XA·l000) . Disassembly (XR·1000). 4-32 Cleaning , Inspection and Repair (X R·l000) . 4-34 4-34 Assembly (XR·l000) . Installation (XR·l000). .... 4·35
Air Cleaner (XR-tOOO) General (XR· l 000). Servicing Air Cleaners (XR· l 000). Installation (XR· 1000) .
. ..... 4-37 . 4-37 ......... 4·37 .......... 4·37
Fuel Supply Valve (XR-l000) . . ... 4·39 General (XA-l 000) . . ..... ... 4·39 Removal (XR-l000) . .4·39 Cleaning , Inspection and Repair (XR·l000j ........ 4·39 Installation (X R·1000j . . ........... 4-39 Fuel Tank (XR-l000) General (XR·l000). Removal (XA.1000j . Repair(XR- l 000) ..... ...... .. _. Ins tallation (XR· l 000j.
...... . .... .. 4-41 · .4·41 ...... 4·41
. 4-41 ...... 4-41
SECTION 5 - ELECTRIC STARTER
· .5-9
Description .... 5-9 Troubleshootmg. · .5·9 Operation 5-10 Starter Relay. . .. 5-12 Removal. . ........ ... 5·12 .. 5·12 Testing Assembled Starter Disassembly, Inspection, Repair and Assembly .... 5·14 Installation. 5·16
Removal (XR-1000) . Installation (XR·1000) .
... .5.17 . .... 5·17 . .5·17
SECTION 6DRIVEITRANSMISSION General Information .
..... . 6-\
Description
6·'
Specifications (1979 - Early 1984)
.... 6-3 .... 6·3 . .... 6·3 . ....... . 6·3 .... 6·3 · .6-3 · .6-3 6-3 .6-3
Transmission Clutch Primary Chain ......... . RearChain Kick Starter. Gear Box Mainshalt Group Counters haft Group _ Torques. . ......... . Service Wear limits.
. ..... 6-4 . 6·4
Chains (1979 - Early 1984) . Front Cham . Rear Chain
Clutch (1979 - Early 1984) . General Controls . Disassembly . Inspection and Repair. Assembly
. .6-5
. ...... 6·5 ........ _. . .6·6
. ..... 6·9 ................ 6·9 . ...... 6·9 .6-13
. ..... 6· 13 6·14
Transmission (1979 - Early 1984) ........ 6-17 y-
Page No.
Page No. General Disassembly. Inspecllon and Repair Assembly . Lubrication.
. . ..... 6·17 ......... 6·1 7 ...... 6·18 . ......•....... 6-22 ........... . .... 6-25
Kick Starter· 1979 XLCH .......... ...... 6·27 .... 6·27 . . .. 6·27 . ... 6·28 . .. 6·28
General Disassembly. InspeCtion and Repair. Assembly.
Specifications (Late 1984 and 1985) .... 6·31 Transmission Clutch. Ma inshaftGroup Countershaft Group. Torques . Service Wear Limits.
.. 6·31 . . . 6·31 .6-31 . ... 6-31 · .6-31 · .6·31
Chains (Late 1984 and 1985)
..... 6·33 · .6-33
Front Chain. Rear Chain .
· .6-33
. .. 6-35 Clutch (Late 1984 and 1985). · .6-35 General. . .. 6-35 Troubleshooting. Clutch Release Mechanism 6-35 Clutch Removal · .6·37 ... . . ... . . ..... 6-37 Clutch Installation. Disassembly .. · .6-37 . .. 6-39 Inspection and Repair ..... •.... .. . . . .. ...... . 6-39 Assembly.
Ignition System 1979
. . . .. . . 7·3
Description. . . .......... 7-3 Operation .... .... ....................... 7-3 Troubleshooting . . ..................... 7·4 Adjusting Sensor Air Gap .. ..... ..... . ....... 7-4 Checking Advance Timing with Strobe Timing Light. 7-5 Setting Retarded Timing with Circuit Tester. . . .. .. 7-5 Removing Ignition Timer Components. . ....... 7-6 Inspection and Replacing Parts .. .. . _. .......... . 7-7 Assembling Ignition Timer Components. . . ... . . 7-7
Ignition System 1980·1982. . ..... 7·9 Description. . .... 7·9 Troubleshooting. . ..... . ... ... .......... . 7·10 Check Advance Timing w ith Strobe Timing Light ... 7·'1 Sett ing Reta rd ed Timing . . .. . 7·" Remov ing Ignit ion Components. . .... .. 7· 11 In spection and Replacing Parts ..... . 7·12 Installing Ignition Components....... .. . . . ..7·12 Ignition System 1983·1985 . . .... 7·15 Description. . .7·15 Troubleshooting. . . .. . .. . .. .. ..... _.7·15 Check Advance Timing with St robe Timing Light ... 7,17 Vacuum Operated Electric Switch (V.O. E.S.) ....... 7·17 Selling Retarded Timing. ..7·18 Ignition Component Removal. . 7·19 Inspection. . ...... ... . . .... 7·20 Ignition Component Installation. ..7·20 Ignition· Light Switch ....... ....... ..... .7·21 Spark Plugs ..
Transmission (Late 1984 and 1985) . . .6·40 Access Cover Removal .6·41 Shifter Mechan ism Removal and Disassembly.. ..6-42 Mainsl1aft and Countersha/t . . .. ... ....... .. . 6-42 Cleaning, Inspection and Repa ir .......... . . .. . .. 6·42 Assembly. . .......... 6·43 Shifter Mechanism Assembly. . ............ 6-45 Countershalt and Mainshafl Assembly. . . 6·45 Establishing Proper Gear Spacing. . ....... . 6·46 Gear Engagement ... .. .... ... 6·46 Establishing Mainshaft and Countershaft End Play.6·47 Installation. . ........... 6-48 Lu brication.. . ........... 6-48
SECTION 7 • ELECTRICAL Specifications. Ignition Timing. Spark Plugs .......... . General. Bulb Chart.
vi.
.. .. . . . 7-1
.. 7-23 General .. 7-23 Inspect in g Spark Plugs .7·23 Sett ing Spark Gap .. .... 7·23 Installing Spark Plugs . . ....... . • . ..7·23 ...... 7·23 Cleaning Spark Plugs ... ........• . . .
Ignition Coil . . .............. . Description. Troubleshooting. Replacing Spark Plug Cable.
.. 7·25 .7-25 .7·25 . ... .... . ... . .. 7·25
Generator(1979· Early 1984) ........... . 7·27 General .. . .7·27 Generator Output Test ....... _.. _...... ..... . .. 7·27 . _... 7·27 Removal. . Disassembly. . .. ... 7·28 Generator Test. ......... . . .. ....• • . . ... .. 7·28 Cleaning, Inspection and Repa ir. . ............ 7·31 Commutator Repa ir ...... . ....... .. .... .. . .. .. 7·31 Polarizing Generator. . .... . . 7·33
.. . .. . . .. . 7-1 . ..... 7-1
.... . .. 7-' · .. 7-1
Regulator (1979· Early 1984).. General
. ... . .. 7·35 . . .. . . .. . . ........... .... . 7·35
Page No. .. 7·35
Checking Charging System.
Charging System (Late 1984 and 1985). '·39 Gene ra l Troubles hooting . Replacing Regulator
. . .. . .. . 7·39 . ... 7·39 . ...... 7·43
Battery . General. Ballery Care. Testlflg Battery. Charging Ba ttery Servici ng . Recla imi ng Su lpha ted Ba ttery
Lamps Headlamp AdjuSting Bea m Bulbs. Horn.
Specifications (XR·l000) ... . .. . . .
. .7·45 . ..... 7·45 ...... . 7·45 ...... 7·45 . .. 7·46 .. .... 7·46 7·46
... 7·47 ..... 7·47 ....... 7·47 . . 7·47 ..... 7·49
7·51
Page No. Ignition Timing (X A·l000) . Spark Plugs (XR.tOOO) General (XR·1000) . Bulb Chart (XR·1000)
Ignition System (XR·l000) .
. .......... . .. 7·51 .7·51 . .... 7·51 .... 7·5t
'·53
Description (XR. 1000). .7.53 Troubleshooting (XR.tOOOj 7·54 Check Advance Timing with Strobe Timing llghl (XR·l 00J). . ......... 7·55 Selling Retarded Tlmlflg (XA·1000j . .7·55 Removing Ignit ion Components (XR·, OOOj. . 7·56 Inspecting and Replacing Parts (XA· 1000) . .7·56 Insta lli ng Ig nit ion Components (XR· l000) 7·56
Ignition·Ught Switch (XR·l000) ........ . '·59 Horn (XR·l000) . . ... . .. . .. '·59 Spark Plugs (XR·l000) . '·59 General (XR·10ooj. Installing Spark Plugs (XR·1000j.
. . . .. 7·59 . .. . .. 7·59
Wiring Diagrams
vii.
PRODUCT
SUBJECT 1.
2. 3.
Service Troubleshooting .......... . Tools. . ........ .. . .
PAGE NO. ............. 1-1
... ••....•.•.. ....... 1-23 . .1-27
I
SERVICE SERVICING A NEW MOTORCYCLE WARNING For the rider's personal welfare, all the listed service and maintenance recommendations should be followed because they may affect the safe operation of the
motorcycle. Service operat ions to be performed before delivery to customer are specified in the Motorcycle Set-up Manual. The performance of new motorcycle initial service is required to keep warranty in force and to ensure proper emissions systems operation. After a new motorcycle has been driven its first 500 miles and again at approximately 2500 miles, a HarleyDavidson dealer should perform the following initial service operations.
Check at First 500 Miles 1. Drain
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
ft. 10.
oil tank through drain plug, flush with kerosene and refill with fresh oil. Replace oil Ii Iter, if applicable. Drain transmission through magnetic drain plug , clean plug, and refill with fresh oil. Check and adjust chains. Check battery electrolyte level and add distilled water if necessary. Check rear brake pedal adjustment. Inspect brake fluid level and condition. Check hy. drau lic brake lines and fittings for leaks. Inspect brake pad linings and brake discs for wear. Check clutch adjustment. Clean fuel tank filter screen.
Check fuel valve, lines and fittings for leaks. Check oil lines for leaks. Lubricate rear chain if necessary. Grease or oil all paints indicated for 2500 miles at¡ tention in the REGULAR MAINTENANCE INTERVAL CHART. 15. Check front fork bearing adjustment. 16. Check tightness of all fasteners. 17. Check wheel spake tightness, if applicable. 18. Check tire pressure and inspect tread. 19. Inspect air cleaner and service as required . 20. Check engine low and fast idle speed adjustment. 21 . Check throttle and chOke control adjustment. 22. Check operation of all electrical equipment and switches. 23. Check and adjust tappet clearance. 24. Road test. 11. 12. 13. 14.
SAFE OPERATING MAINTENANCE Good maintenance means a safe machine. A careful check of certain equipment must be made after periods of storage and frequently between the regular service intervals to determine if additional main tenance is necessary. The following items should be checked : 1. 2. 3. 4.
5. 6. 7. 8.
Tires for correct pressure, abrasions or cuts. Chain for proper tension and lubrication. Brakes, steering and throttle for responsiveness. Brake fluid level and condition. Hydraulic lines and fittings for leaks. Also, check brake pads and discs for wear. Cables for fraying or crimping and free operation. Engine oil and transmission flu id levels. Wheel spoke tightness if applicable. Headlig ht, taill ight and directional light operation.
,.,
REGULAR SERVICE INTERVALS The followi ng chart outlines re commended Ma intenance and Lubric at ion interva ls after perf orman ce o f service on a new motorcycl e and th e init ial break-in period. Refer to the followi ng figures when using the ch art. MILEAGE INTER VALS SER VICE TO BE PER FORMED
C::_~a"-ge engi~e~~
Every
First
Every
Every
Every
300
'",
'''' ,
5000
'''' ,
Check tappet ad justment
,
, , "--- , , "--- , --, --- , , , , , , , , , , , , , ~ , , ~ , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , - -, - , , , ,
1-
RBEla!:, oil Iil t.e!
~-
Clean condition of spark plugs and replace ,/ necessary Re~ l ace spar~
plugs
Inspect alf cleane. and servIce as reqUired ~heck an~ adl us~c~a'ns
Check
~ear ~rak_e p!'~al
adjustment
Inspect brake !luid level and condition
~-
Che<:k brake lIulI:l level and condition
Check brake .pad ~1 ~Jngs and discs 10. wear Check clutCh adjustment Check luel tank Ill1er screen --
~heCk
luel .al.~.ynes and "HI~gs lor leaks
Chec_~ .?,~~s
and brake system f~r lea k~
Lubrica te the rear chain -
-~
Oil the front brake and clutch handlevers
-
a,l the throttle. chOke and clu tch cables Grease the
speedom~ter
, , , ,
dme
Check tightness of all l asteners Check wheel spoke tightness II applic able Check t"e pressure and Inspect tread Check
~gnition
, ,
timing
Check engine low and la st idle speed
adJus~~ent
Check operation ot throWe and choke controls Check Operation 01 all electncal eq uipment and SWitCheS Change t ransmiSSion oil Clean tr ansmi SSion magnetic dram plug Check battery e leclrolyte level: check and clean connections
, , , ,
, , , ,
, ,
Check rear shock rubber bushing condition Check front lork beanng ad justment
- - - -- - --
~ -
, , , "--, , -
, , , , , ,
, ,
-
, , , , , , , ,
-
, , , , , , ,
,
~-~
Grease the throttle control grip s leeve Grease the speedometer cable
, , , ,
, , , , , ,
, ,
-
Repack wheel beanngs With grease Repack rear lark beanngs With grease Change front fork 011 Road lesl Ol te Comple tl d:
'¡2
,
,
, ,
,
EYery 10,000
, , ,
-
, , , , , , , ,
Every Spring or F.1l
, , -
, , -
, , , , , ,
, , , , ,
,-
-"-----
--
, ,
, , , , , , , , , , , ,
, ,
---
,
, ,
---
''''''
11
1. 2. 3. 4.
Tail/stop lamp Battery and oil tank cover Carburetor air cleaner Gasoline supply valve
5. 6. 7. 8.
Headlamp Ignition timer cover Rear brake pedal Electric starter
9. 10. 11. 12.
Drive chain Rear brake master cylinder Rear shock absorber Turn signal
Figure 1路1. Right Side View, 1979 Model XLH-1000
10
1. 2. 3. 4.
Tail/stop lamp Battery and oil tank cover Carburetor air cleaner Gasoline supply valve
5. 6. 7. 8.
Ignilion coil Ignition timer cover Rear brake pedal Starter crank pedal
9. 10. 11. 12.
Drive chain Rear shock absorber Turn signal Rear brake master cylinder
Figure 1路2. Right Side View, 1979 Model XLCH路1000
1路3
"'"
'2 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Gas cap Carburetor choke knob Ignitlon.Ught switch Horn Oil lank drain plug
6. 7. 8. 9.
15
11 10
9
8
Regulator Rear shock absorber JUly stand Transmission and Iront chain compartment oil tiller plug
5 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.
Transmission olileni plug Gear shllter Generator Steering lock Turn signal Highway footrest
Figure 1路3. left Side View, 1979 Model XLS路l000
11
1. Tailfstop lamp 2. Oil tank filler cap 3. Battery 4. Carburetor air cleaner
5. Gasoline supply valve
6. Headl.mp 7. Rear brake pedal 8. Electric .farte' motor
9. Orlve chain 10. Rear brake master cylinder 11. Rear shock absorber 12. Turn signa'
Figure 1路4. Right Side View, 1980 Model XlH路l000
,-4
"'"
"
1. Gas cap 2. Carburetor choke knob 3. Ignition.llght switch 4. Horn 5. 011 tank drain plug
6. Regulator 7. Rear shock absorber
8. Jilly stand 9. Transmission and front chain compartment oil filler plug
10. Transmission 0111&1181 plug 11 . Gear shifter 1:2. Generator 13. Steering lock 14. Turn signal 15. Highway footrest
Figure 1路5. Left Side View, 1980 Model XlS路1000
""
11
1. 2.
Tall/stop lamp 011 tank filler cap
3.
Battery
4.
Carburetor air cleaner
5. 6. 7. 8.
Gasoline supply valve Headlamp Rear brake pedal Electric starter motor
9. 10. 11 . 12. 13.
Figure 1路6. Right Side View, 1981 Model XlH 路1000
Drive chain Rear brake master cylinder Rear shock absorber Turn Signal Brake hand lever
16
!5!!
14
1. Gas cap 2. Carburetor choke knob 3. Ignltion.light switch 4. Horn 5. Oil tank drain plug 6. Regulator
7. 8. 9. 10. 11 .
Rear shock absorber Jiffy stand Transmission and front chain compartment 011 filler plug Transmission oil level plug Gear shifter
12. Generator 13. Steering lock 14. Turn signal 15. Highway footrest 16. Clutch handlever
Figure 1路7. left Side View, 1981 Model XlS路1000
18!3
9
1. Tall/stop 'amp 2. 011 tank tiller cap 3. Carburetor air cleaner 4. Headlamp
5. 6. 7. 8.
Rear brake pedal Electric starter motor Drive chain Rear brake ma.ter cylinder
Figure 1路8. Right Side View, 1982 Model XlH
1路6
9. 10. 11. 12.
Rear shock absorber Turn signal Brake hand lever 011 drain plug
•
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Gas cap Carburetor choke knob Ignltlon·llght switch Horn Regulator Rear shock absorber
7. Jiffy stand 8. Transmission and front chain compartment 011 filler plug 9. Transmission 011 level plug 10. Gear shifter 11. Generator
12. Steering lock 13. Tum signal 14. Highway footrast 15. Clutch handlev.( 16. Gasoline suply valve 17. Battery
Figure 1·9. left Side View, 1982 Model XlS
""
1. Tall/stop light 2.011 lank tiller cap 3. Carburetor/.lr cleaner 4. H8adlamp
5. Rear brake pedal 6. Electric starter motor
9. Rear shock absorber
10. Turn signal light
7. Drive chain 8. Rear brake master cylinder Figura 1·10. Right Side View, 1983 Model XLH
11. Front brake handlevef 12. Front brake master cylinder
2121
1. Gas cap 2. Carburetor choke knob 3. Ignition.tight switch 4. Horn 5. Regulator 6. Jiffy stand
7. Transmission and primary chain 011 filler plug 8. Transmission 011 level plug 9. Gear shifter 10. Generator 11 . Steering lock
12. 13. 14. 15. 16.
Highway footrest Clutch handlever Gasoline supply valve Battery 011 tank drain plug
Figure 1·11 . left Side View, 1983 Model XlS
""
1. Tall/stop light 2. 011 tank filler cap 3. CarburetorJalr cleaner 4. Headlamp 5. Rear brake pedal
6. 7. 8. 9.
Electric starter motor Drive chain Rear brake master cylinder Rear shock absorber
10. Turn signal light 11. Front brake handlever 12. Gasoline supply valve 13. Front brake master cylinder
Figure 1·12. Right Side View, 1983 Model XlX
'·8
1. Horn 2. Voltage regulator 3. Generator 4.011 filter 5. Timing Inspection hole plug 6. Shift lever
7. Primary chain Inspection & transmission 011 filler plug 8. Transmission 011 level plug 9. Clutch access plug 10. Transmission & chain case drain plug
11 . 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.
Jiffy stand 011 tank drain line Ignition module Battery Ignitlonllight switch Choke knob Clutch hand lever
Figure 1-13. XLH Left Side Vlew- Early 1984 Model
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Headlamp Front turn signal lamp Front brake master cylinder Front brake hand lever Throttle control grip
6. Carburetor air cleaner 7.011 tank fill plug & dipstick 8. Rear turn signal lamp 9. Tail.lstop lamp 10. Rear sprocket & drive chain
11 . 12. 13. 14. 15.
Rear chain adjuster Rear brake master cylinder Electric starter motor Rear brake pedal Steering lock
Figure 1¡14. XLH Right Side Vlew- Early 1984 Model
'¡9
""
1. Hom 2. Voltage regulator
3. Generator 4. Oil filter 5. Timing Inspecllon hole plug 6. Shift lever
7. Primary chain Inspection & transmission all filler plug 8. Transmission all level plug 9. Clutch access plug 10. Transmission & chain case drain plug
11 . Jiffy stand 12. 011 tank drain line
13. {gnlllan module 14. Battery 15. Ignlllonlllght switch 16. Choke knob 17. Clutch hand lever
Figure 1·15. XlS Left Side Vlew- Early 1984 Model
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Headlamp Front turn signal lamp Front brake master cylinder Front brake hand lever Throttle control grip
6. Carburetor air cleaner
7. 011 tank till plug & dipstick 8. Rear tum signal lamp
9. Tall/stop lamp 10. Rear sprocket & drive chain
11 . 12. 13. 14. 15.
Rear chain adjuster Rear brake master cylinder Electric starter motor Rear brake pedal Steering lock
Figure 1·16. XLS Right Side Vlew- Early 1984 Model 1·10
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Horn Voltage regulator Generator Oil filter Timing inspection hole plug Shift lever
7. Primary chain Inspection & transmission 011 filler plug 8. Transmission 011 level plug 9. Clutch access plug 10. Transmission Be chain case drain plug
11 . Jiffy stand
12. 011 tank drain line 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.
Ignition module Battery Ignltlonllight switch Choke knob Clutch hand lever
Figure 1-17. XLX Left Side V.lew, 1984 Model XLX
""
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Headlamp Front turn signal lamp Front brake master cylinder Front brake hand lever Throttle control grip
6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
Carburetor air cleaner 011 tank fill plug & dipstick Rear turn Signal lamp Tall/atop lamp Rear sprocket & drive chain
11. Rear chain adjuster
12. Rear brake master cylinder 13. Electric starter motor 14. Rear brake pedal 15. Steering lock
Figure 1¡18. XLX Right Side View, 1984 Model XLX 1-11
999iron .. om
""
13
1. Gas Cap 2. Ignition/llght switch 3. Horn 4. Jilly stand
5. Transmission and primary chain 011 tiller plug 6. Transmission 011 level plug 7. Gear shifter 8. Generator
9. Headlamp 10. Steering lock 11 . Clutch hand lever 12. Battery 13. Tail/ stop light
Figure 1-19. XR·1000 Left Side View
;99iron.
)nl
2310
1. 2. 3. 4.
Gasoline supply valve 011 tank filler cap Carburetor/air cleaner Choke knob
5. Rear brake pedal
6. Electric starter motor 7. Drive chain 8. Rear brake master cylinder Figure 1·20. XR·1000 Right Side View
1-12
9. 10. 11. 12.
Rear shock absorber Turn signal light Front brake handlever Front brake master cylinder
""
1. Ignition coli 2. Horn 3. Voltage regulator 4. Oil filter 5. Timing inspection hole plug 6. Shift lever
7. Primary chain inspection & transmission oil filler plug 8. Transmission oil level plug 9. Clutch access plug 10. Transmission & chalncase drain plug
Figure 1-21. Left Side View, Late 1984 Model -
11. Jiffy stand 12.011 tank drain line 13. Ignition module 14. Battery 15. Ignition-light switch 16. Choke knob 17. Clutch handlever XLS
2373
1. Ignition coli 2. Horn 3. Voltage regulator
4. Oil filter 5. Timing Inspection hole plug
6. Shift lever
7. Primary chain inspection & transmission oil filler plug 8. Transmission 01l18V81 plug 9. Clutch access plug 10. Transmission & chaincase drain plug
Figure 1·22. Left Side View, Late 1984 Model -
11. Jiffy stand 12.011 tank drain line 13. Ignition module 14. Battery 15. Ignltlon·light switch 16. Choke knob 17. Clutch handlever XLH 1·13
""
1. Ignition coil 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
7. Primary chain Inspection &
Horn Voltage regulator Oil filter Timing inspection hole plug Shift lever
11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.
transmission all filler plug 6. Transmission oil level plug
9. Clutch access plug 10. Transmission & chain case drain plug
Figure 1-23. XlX Left Side View -
Jiffy stand Oil tank drain line Ignition module Battery Ignltlonllight switch Choke knob Clutch hand lever
Late 1984 Model
2528
1. Ignition coli 2. 3. 4. S. 6.
Hom Voltage regulator 011 tllter Timing inspection hole plug Shift lever
7. Primary chain Inspection & transmission oil filler plug 8. Transmission 011 level plug 9. Clutch access plug 10. Transmission & chain case drain plug
Figure 1¡24. XLS Left Side View -
1¡14
1985 Model
11 . 12. 1:. 14. 15. 16. 17.
Jiffy stand 011 tank drain line Ignition module Battery Ignition/llght switch Choke knob Clutch hand lever
.
"
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Headlamp Front tum signal lamp Front brake master cylinder Front brake hand lever Throttle control grip
6. Carburetor air cleaner 7.011 tank fill plug & dipstick 8. Rear tum signal lamp 9. Tail/stop lamp 10. Rear sprocket & drive chain
Figure 1·25. XlS Right Side View -
11. 12. 13. 14.
Rear chain adjuster Rear brake master cylinder Electric starter motor Rear brake pedal
15. Steering lock
1985 Model
''''
1. Ignition coli 2. Hom 3. Voltage regulator 4.011 filter 5. Timing inspection hole plug 6. Shift lever
7. Primary chain Inspection & transmission 011 filler plug 8. Transmission all lavel plug 9. Clutch accass plug 10. Transmission & chain case drain plug
Figure 1·26. XLH Left Side View -
11. Jiffy stand 12. 011 tank drain line 13. Ignition module 14. Battery 15. Ignition/light switch 16. Choke knob 17. Clutch hand lever
1985 Model 1·15
1. Headlamp 2. Front turn signal lamp 3. Front brake master cylinder 4. Front brake hand lever 5. Throttle control grip
6. Carburetor air cleaner 7. 011 tank 1111 plug & dipstick 8. Rear turn signal lamp 9. Tall/stop lamp 10. Rear sprocket & drive chain
Figure 1·27. XlH Right Side View -
11 . Rear chain adjuster 12. Rear brake master cylinder 13. Electric starter motor 14. Rear brake pedal 15. Steering lock
1985 Model
'"''
1. Ignition coli 2. Horn 3. Voltage regulator 4. 011 IIlter 5. Timing Inspection hole plug 6. Shift lever
7. Primary chain Inspection & transmission 011 filler plug 8. Transmission oil level plug 9. Clutch access plug 10. Transmission & chain case drain plug
Figure 1·28. XLX Left Side View 1·16
1985 Model
11 . Jiffy stand 12. 011 tank drain line 13. Ignition module 14. Battery 15. Ignition flight switch 16. Choke knob 17. Clutch hand lever
""
1. Headlamp 2. Front turn signal lamp 3. Front brake master cylinder
4. Front brake hand lever 5. Throttle control grip
6. Carburetor air cleaner 7. Oil tank fill plug & dipstick 8. Rear turn signal lamp
9. Tail /stop lamp 10. Rear sprocket & drive chain
Figure 1¡29. XLX Right Side View -
11. 12. 13. 14. 15.
Rear chain adjuster Rear brake master cylinder Electric startef motor Rear brake pedal Steering lock
1985 Model
1¡17
STORAGE
REMOVAL FRO M STORAGE
If the motorcycle wi ll not be ope rated for several months, such as during the winter season , there are several things which should be done to protect parts against corrosion , to preserve the battery and to prevent the build"up of gum and varnish in the carburetor. This work should be performed by your local HarleyDavidson dealer or other qualified mechanic following Service Manual procedures .
WARNING Gasoline is flammable. Do nol store motorcycle having gasoline in tank within the home or garage where open flames, pilot lights, sparks or electric motors are present. 1. Drain a ll fuel from the gas tank and carburetor Hoal bowl and coat the ins ide of the float bowl w ith light oil. Spray the inside of the gas tank with one of the commercially available rust preventatives. Follow the manufacturer's instructions . 2. Fill the oi l tank and pinch off or remove and plug the line leading from the bottom of the oil tank to the feed fitting (marked F) on the oi l pump. This w ill eliminate the possibi lity of oil seeping past the check ball into the oil pump and filling the engine flywheel compartment with oil . 3. Remove the spark plugs, inject a few squirts of engine oi l into each cylinder and crank the engine 5 or 6 revo lutions. Reinstall spark plugs.
After extended periods of storage and prior to starting vehicle, place transmission in gear, disengage clutch and push vehicle back and forth a few ti mes to ensure proper clutch disengagement. 1. Fi lilhe battery with water 10 the prope r level. Charge and install i\' 2. Remove and Inspect the spark plugs. Replace if necessary. 3. Clean and oil the air cleaner element. 4. Remove the carburetor floal bow l. clean it and check the f loat level . 5. Fill fue l tank with fresh gaSO l ine. 6. If oi l feed line was pinched off or plugged, unp lug it and reconnect. 7. Starl the engine and run until it reaches norma l operating temperature . 8. Drain and flush the oi l tank. Install a new oi l filler and fill oi l tank w ith the proper grade oil. Check the transmission oil level. 9. Perform all of the checks in the PRE-R IDING CHECK LIST in the Owner's Manual .
FLUID REQUIREMENTS
4. Adjust the chains. 5. Check tire inflation. If the motorcycle will be stored for an extended period of time, securely support the motorcycle under the frame so that ali weight is off the tires. 6. Wash painted and chrome paint ed surfaces and app lya light film of oi l to exposed unpainted surfaces .
WARNING Do not apply any oil to brake discs or brake pads.
7. Remove battery from vehicle and charge until the correct specific gravity is obtained. This should be done every other month for batteries in winter storage, at temperatures below 60°F (16 QC), and once a month for batteries stored in a warm area, above 60°F (16°C). 8. If motorcycle is to be covered, use a material such as light canvas, that will brealhe. Plastic materials that do not breathe promote the formation of condensation.
1·18
WARNING
Harley-D avid son Oil Use proper grade of oil for the lowest temperature expected before next oil change period as tollows:
Air Temperature (Cold Engi ne Sta rting Conditions)
Use Harley·Davidson Oil Grade
10° to 100¢ F. plus Norma l & severe operating conditions
Power Blend Super Premium
Below 40¢F. Above 40¢F. Above 60°F. Severe operating condit ions at air temperatures Above 80°F.
Special Light Medium Heavy Regular Heavy Extra Heavy Grade 60
Harl ey-Davidson High Performance Lu be Plus and Chain Spray Designed especially as a chain lubricant. Penetrates inner bear ings tor a long chai n life.
Brake Fluid
Gasoline
Use only O.O.T 5 HYDRAU LIC BRAKE FLUID.
1979·1981 models, use a good quality leaded or unlead· ed premium grade gasoline (94 pump octane or higher). 1982 and later models, use a good quality regular grade leaded gasoline (89 pump octane or higher).
WARNING O.O.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID can cause eye Irritation. In case of contact with eyes, flush with plenty of water and get medical attention. KEEP BRAKE FLUID OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN!
PUMP OCTANE is the octane number usually shown on the gas pump.
1-19
METRIC CONVERSION TABLE INCHES to MILLIMETERS
(mm x 0.03937 '" Inches)
(inches x 25.40 = mm)
m.
in.
mm
m.
.1
.0039 25
.9842 58
2.283
91
3.582
.001
.025
.6
.2
.0078 26
1.024 59
2.323
92
3 .622
.002
051
mm
m.
mm
m.
mm
in.
mm
m.
mm
1 '~
15 .240
mm
'"
49.21
3
mm ~.
84.14
,
15.875 2
50.80 3'.
85.72
'~ .
462
39 3 4 52. 1 . 53.34 3 U.
86.36
.003
.076
3.701
.004
,102
.7
17. 1 ". 17.780 2.1
3.740
.005
.127
"
19.050 2 '{
53.97 3'1
88.90
3 .779
.006
.152
8
20.320
55.56 3 y.,
90.49
97
3 .819
.007
.178
''o,
20 .6 38 2 .2
55.88 3.6
91.44
98
3 .858
.008
.203
"
22.225 2 Y.
57,15
2.598
99
3 .897
009
.229
.9
22.860 2.3
58.42 3'>;.
93.66
lOa
3.937 1 .010
.254
",.
23.812 2 ' i.
58.74
3.7
93.98
.397
1
25.40
2 'i
60.32 3 'i
95 .25 96.52
.0118 27
1.063 60
2.362
93
.4
.0157 28
1.102 61
2.401
94
.5
,0197 29
1.142 62
2.441
95
.6
.0236 30
1.181
63
2.480
96
.7
.0275 31
1.220 64
2.519
.8
.0315 32
1.260 65
2.559
.9
.0354 33
1.299 66
.3
1·20
MILLIMETERS to INCHES
3.661
1
,.,
"
87.31
92.07
1
.0394 34
1.338 67
2.638
2
.0787
35
1.378 68
2.677 101
3
.1181
36
1.417 69
2.716 102
4.0 161 .020
.508
1';.
26.99
2.4
60.96 3.8
4
.1575 37
1.456 70
2.756 103
4.055 , .030
.762
11
27.94
2 ',.
61 .91
5
.1968 38
1.496 71
2.795
104
4 .094
.794
1'.
28 .57
6
.2362 39
1.535 72
2.834
105
4 .134
040
1.016
1 '<,
30 .16
2 " 2 '{.
7
.2756 40
1.575 73
2 .874
106
4.173
.050
1.270 ! 1.2
30.48
2.6
66.04 3 'X. 100.01
8
.3149 41
1.614 74
2 .913
107
4.212
060
1.524 i I "
31.75
.3543 42
1.653 75
2.953
108
4.252
"
1.588
1.3
33.02
"2 "(.
66.67 4
9 10
.3937 43
1.693 76
2.992 109
4.291
.070
U78
1'<.
33.34 1 27
11
.4331
44
1.732 77
3.031
110
4 .331
.080
2.032
1"
34.92
12
.4724 45
1.772 78
3.071
111
4.370
.090
2.286
1.4
35.56
2.8
13
.5118 46
1.811
79
3 .110 112
4.409
.1
2.540 1 ';,
36.51
, 2'¥.
14
.5512 47
1.850 80
3. 149 113
4.449
"
3 .175
15
.5905 48
1.890 81
3.189
114
4.488
\,
4 .762
,.,.
16
.6299 49
1.929 1 82
3.228
115
4.527
5 .080
1.6
40.64
17
.6693 50
1.968 83
3.268
116
4.567
41.27
18
.7086 51
2.008 84
3.307
117
4.606
19
.7480 52
2.047 85
3 .346
118
4.645
20
.7874 53
2.086 86
3 .386
119
4.685
21
.8268 54
2.126 87
3.425
120
4.724
22
.866 1 55
2.165 88
3.464
121
4.764
li.
23
.9055 56
2.205 89
3 .504
122
24
.9449 57
2.244 90
3.543
123
4.80:1 4.842
.," 1270~ I
,
3.
976
i I x.
"
.2
I
1'"
68.26 4
101.6 ~.
102.19
68.58 41
104.14
69.85 H
104.77
71 .12 4 70, 106.36
73.02 4 Y-
107.95
73.66 4.3
..
109.22
77 .79 4.4
111.76
31
78.74 4 ;(,
112.71
"
79 .37
114 .30
7.620 7 .938
1.7
43.18
9.525 1V.
44.45
10.160 18
45.72
14 .288
99.06
39.69 1 29
K.
11.112
98.42
65 .09 3.9
38.10 I 2 "
"
.4
63 .50 3 'c,
106 .68
"
,
96.84
71.44 4.2
6.350
.3
I"
3''(,
I
2 "1. 3
74.
61
76.20
,
1 'X. 42.86
('
1
,",
"
109.54 111.12
3 ...
80.96 4'4 11 5.89
l 'K. 46.04
3.2
81.28 4.6
47 .62
3 ';
48.26
I 3.3
l Yo 1.9
825: 1 " 83.82 4
116 .84 117,47
'x.
119.06
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS Torque specifications for specific components are listed In each repeclive section. For all other fasteners, use the values listed in the table below. Torque figures are in ft -Ibs except those marked with an asterisk which are in in· Ibs.
n
I
TYPE
0 '
STEn
FASTENER
ED ® @
~
IJ V1
MINIMUM TENSILE
I
MATERIAL
74,000
SAE 2
SAE 5
-
PSI
120,000
I
CARBON
HEAT TREAT
SAt 7
133,000
CARBON
SAE8
Size or Outside Diameter
MEDIUM
PSI PSI
, , , , • "
lOW CARBON
STEEL
STEEL
! Body 2
STRENGTH
14'
In'
.,
,
I,
"
Illro
10
19
Il
"
14
~
"
II
"
140'
18
MEDIUM
AllOY
33
..
PSI
CARBON AllOY
SOCKET
160,000
HIGH CARBON
I
PSI
QUENCHED
SOCKET SET SCREW
212,000
HIGH CARBON
STUDS
Use SAt 2, 5 and 8 values when grade ,s known, w' th nut of SufflClcn t strength
HEAD
PSI
,
" " 961 m " ", '" m
206
l,
"
32
Ii
II
110
I"
m
'"
18
119
I"
2~
'"
"'
I~
2~
400
4l
6J
100
'46
MEDIUM
150,000
STEEL
CAP SCREW
'·1 '.
If, l
"
TEMPERED ~U[NCHEO
EMPEREO
9'
'" "
10"
.. ~
'12 110
.. .0
I
'"-" .40 100
910
1-21
TROUBLESHOOTING The following check list wil l be helpful in locating most operating t roubles . Refer to the appropriate sections in this service manual for detailed procedures.
ENGINE Starting Motor Does Not Operate or Does Not Turn Engine Over 1. Engine run switch in OFF position . 2. Ignition switch not on. 3. Discharged battery, loose or corroded connections. (Solenoid chatters.) 4. Starter control circuit, relay or solenoid defective. 5. Electric starter shaft pinion gear not engaging or over·running clutch slipp ing .
Engine Turns Over But Does Not Start 1. Gas tank empty. 2. Gasoline valve turned off. 3. Gasoline valve or filter clogged. 4. Discharged battery, loose or broken battery terminal connections. 5. Fouled spark plugs. 6. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting or cable connections loose. 7. Ignition timing badly out of adjustment. 8. Loose wire connection at coil or battery connection or p lug between ignition sensor and,module. 9. Defective ignition coil. 10. Defective ignition module. 11. Defective ignition sensor (1980 & later). 12. Sticking or damaged valve or tappets too tight. 13. Engine flooded with gasoline as a result of overchoking . 14. Engine oil too heavy (winter operation).
Starts Hard 1. Spark plugs in bad condition, have improper gap or are partially fouled. 2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting. 3. Battery nearly discharged. 4. Loose wire connection at one of the battery ter· minals, at coil or plug between ignition sensor and module. 5. Carburetor controls not adjusted correctl y. 6. Defective ignition coil. 7. Engine oil too heavy (winter operation). 8. Timing advance weights sticking in advanced position (1979 only). 9. Ignition not timed properly. 10. Gasoline tank cap vent plugged, or carburetor fuel line closed off restricting fuel flow. 11 . Water or dirt in fuel system and carburetor. 12. Choke disc stuck in open position. 13. Air leak at intake man ifold. 14. Valves sticking.
Starts But Runs Irregularly or Misses 1. Spark plugs in bad condition or partially fouled. 2. Spark plug cables in bad condition and shorting . 3. Spark plug gap too close or too wide. 4. Defective ignition coil. 5. Defect ive ignition module. 6. De/ective ignition sensor (1980 & later). 7. Battery near ly discharged. 8. Damaged wire or loose connection at one 0/ battery terminals or coil. 9. Intermittent short circuit due to damaged wire in· sulation. 10. Water or dirt in fuel system and carburetor or filter. 11. Gasoline tank cap vent plugged or carburetor vent line closed off. 12. Carburetor controls improperly adjusted. 13. Weak or broken valve springs. 14. Air leak at intake manifold or air cleaner. 15. Damaged intake or exhaust valve. 16. Incorrect valve timing.
A Spark Plug Fouls Repeatedly 1. Incorrect spark plug. 2. Piston rings badly worn or broken. 3. Fuel mixture too rich (see CARBURETOR TROUBLE CHART). 4. Valve guides badly worn.
Pre· Ignition or Detonation (Knocks or Pings) 1. Excessive carbon deposit on piston head or com· bustion chamber. 2. In correct spark plug for the kind of service. 3. Defective spark plugs. 4. Ignition timing advanced . 5. Fuel octane rating too low.
Overheating 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Insufficient oil supply, or oil not circulating. Leak.ing valves. Heavy carbon deposit. Ignition timing retarded. Low power - timing advance weights sticking in retarded position (1979 only).
Valve Train Noise 1. Too much tappet clearance. 2. Bent push rod. 3. Cam, cam gears, or cam bearings or bushings worn. 4. Rocker arm binding on shaft. 5. Valve sticking in guide.
Excessive Vibration 1. Upper mounting bracket loose, broken or improperly spaced .
1·23
2. Lower mounting bolts loose. 3. Broken frame. 4. Front chain badly worn or links light as a result of in· sufficient lubrication. 5. Wheels and/or tires defective. 6. Internal engine problem.
LUBRICATION SYSTEM Oil Does Not Return To 011 Tank 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Oil lank empty. Scavenger pump gear pin sheared. Oil feed pump not functioning. Restricted oil lines or fittings. Restricted or plugged all filter (if applicable).
Engine Uses Too Much Oil or Smokes Excessively 1. Piston rings badly worn or broken. 2. Valve gUides worn.
Engine Leaks Oil From Cases, Push Rods, Hoses, Etc. 1. Loose parts. 2. Imperfect seal at gaskets, push rod cover, washers, etc. 3. Restricted oil return line to tank. 4. Restricted breather hose to air cleaner. 5. Plugged oil filter (if applicable).
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (Late 1984 . 1985) Alternator Does Not Change 1. Defective regu lator·rectifier modu le. 2. Module not grounded. 3. Engine ground wire loose or broken. 4. loose or broken wires in charging circuil. 5. Defective stator. 6. Defective rotor.
Alternator Charge Rate Is Below Normal 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Defective regulator·rectifier module. Defective stator. Defective rotor. Weak or defective battery. loose connections.
CARBURETOR Floods 1. Inlet valve sticking. 2. Inlet valve and/or valve seat worn or damaged. 3. Dirt or other foreign matter between valve and its seal. 4. Excessive "pumping" of hand throttle grip. 5. Leaky or defective float. 6. Float misadjusted.
TRANSMISSION ELECTRICAL SYSTEM (1979 . Early 1984) Generator Does Not Charge 1. Brushes badly worn. 2. Brushes Sticking in holders. 3. Voltage regulator not grounded. 4. Defectfve voltage regulator. 5. Commutator dirty or ally. 6. Positive brush holder grounded. 7. Generator "A" terminal grounded. 8. loose or broken wire in generator· battery circuit. 9. Broken field coil wire or loose terminal (both sides). 10. Commutator shorted. 11. Defective armature.
Charging Rate is Below Normal 1. Broken field coil wire or loose terminal (one coil). 2. Commutator worn or not turning true with shaft throws brushes at high speed. 3. Commutator dirty or oily. 4. Brushes gummy and sluggish in holders. 5. Defective armature. 1·24
Shifts Hard 1. 2. 3. 4.
Clutch dragging slightly. Transmission oil too heavy (winter operation). Shifter forks (inside transmisSiOn) damaged. Corners worn off shifter clutch dogs (inside transmisSiOn).
Jumps Out of Gear 1. Shiiter forks (inside transmisSion) improperly ad· Justed. 2. Shifter engaging parts (Inside transmission) badly worn and rounded.
CLUTCH Slips 1. Clutch controls improperly adjusted. 2. Insufficient clutch spring tension. 3. Worn friction discs.
Drags or Does Not Release 1. Clutch controls improperly adjusted. 2. Clutch spring tension too tight.
3. Friction discs gummy. 4. Clutch shell keys or hub studs badly worn (1979 ·Early 1984). S. Clutch discs warped. 6. Transmission oil too heavy for air temperature.
Chatters 1. Friction discs or steel discs worn, warped, or dragging.
BRAKE Does Not Hold Normally 1. Master cylinder Iowan fluid. 2. Brake line contains air bubbles. 3. Master or wheel cylinder piston worn or parts defective. 4. Brake pads impregnated with grease or all. 5. Brake pads badly worn (1116 in. minimum lining thickness). 6. Brake disc badly worn or warped. 7. Brake fades due to heat build up - brake pads dragging or excessive braking. 8. Brake drags - insufficient brake pedal or hand lever free play.
HANDLING Irregularities 1. Loose wheel axle nuts. Tighten front nuts to 50 ft·lbs maximum. Tighten rear nuts t060-65ft·lbs. 2. Excessive wheel hub bearing play. 3. Rear wheel out of alignment with frame and front wheel. 4. Rims and tires out-of true sideways (tire run·out should not be more than 3/64 in.). 5. Rims and tires out·of·round or eccentric with hub (tire run-out should not be more than 3/32 in.). 6. Irregular or peaked front tire tread wear. 7. Tires improperly inflated. Check TIRE DATA section. Do not over·inflate. 8. Tire and wheel unbalanced. 9. Steering head bearings improperly adjusted. Correct adjustment, and replace pitted or worn bearings and races. See FORKS. 10. Shock absorber not functioning normally. 11. Heavy front end loading. Non-standard equipment on the Iront end such as heavy radio receivers, extra lighting equipment or luggage tends to cause unstable handling.
1-25
TOOLS
Part No. J·5586 Transmission Shaft Retaining Ring Pliers
Part No. J·2690().14 Small Hole Gauge
Part No. HD·01289 Rim Protector
Part No. HD·8062 Valve Spring Compressor
Part No. HD·S4Q4 Hose Clamp Tool
Part No. HO ·20000 Tire RepaIr Kit
Part No. HD·21000 Tire Spreader
Part No. HD·23433 Multiple Carburetor Synchronizer
Part No. HO·23738 Vacuum Pump
Part No. HO·28700 Be.d Exp.nder
Part No. HO·33030 Piston Squaring Plate
Part No. HO·33071 Wheel Be.rlng Race Remover and Inst,lIer
Part No. H0-331H ACCfts Plug Remo'fal Tool
Part No. HO·33223·1 Cylinder Compression G.uge
Part No. HO·33413 CarburetOlldle AdJustment Tool
Part No. HO·33416 Unl'fersal Ori'fer Handle
1·28
Part No. HD·33418 Universal Puller Forcing Screw
Part No. HD·33871 Valve Guide Tool
~ ~
~~ ~~ ~~
~~
Part No. HD·33813 Inductive Tim ing Light
Part No. HD·34190 Fork Seal Tool
::::::: ~~
Part No. HD·34198 Torque Plate
Part No. HD·34723 Valve Guide Hone
q'----Part No. HD·34740 Valve Guide Driver
Part No. HO·34761 Clutch Spring Compression Tool
1·29
Part No. HO·34810 Malnshatt Bearing Installation Tool
Part No. HO·34816 011 Pressu,. Switch Wrench
Part No. HO ·34813 Rowe Flywheel RebUIlding Jig
Part No. HO·35102 Connecting Rod Bushing Hone
-~
Part No. HO·91042 Clutch locking Tool
Part No. HO·94546·41 Flywheel Shaft Nut Wrench
1-30
Part No. HD·94456-81 Ignition Test Adapter
Part No. HO·94547·80 Crankshaft Bearing, Removal and Installation Tool
Part No. H D·94575·58A Spark Plug Wrench
Part No. HD·94580·71 Clutch Adjusting Wrench
Part No. HD-94589·29A Cylinder Base Nut Wrench (9116,,)
Part No. HD·9459().73 Cylinder Head Bolt Socket Handle
Part No. HD·94647·52 Clutch Hub Nut and Engine Sprocket Locknut Wrench
Part No. HD·94681·80 Spoke Nipple Wrench
n
~
I
~ '--
Part No. HD-94752·77 Float Gauge
Part No. HD·94800·26 Spiral Expansion Reamer
1·31
Part No. HO-94803·67 Rear Intake Camshaft Bushing Reamer
Part No. HD·94804·57 Rocker Arm Bushing Reamer
Part No. HO·94806·57 Idler Gear Bushing Reamer
Part No. HD·94809·80 Expansion Reamer - Exhaust
Part No. HO·94810-80 Expansion Reamer· Intake
Part No. HO·94812·77 Pinion Shaft Bushing Reamer
Part No. HD·94820·75 Spanner Wrench
Part No. HD·94829·42 Clutch Gear Bushing Reamer
1·32
Part No. HD-95017·61 External lock Ring Pliers
Part No. HD·95020·66 Rear Chain Connecting link Press Tool
&
Part No. HD·95021·29A Chain Breaking Tool
Part No. HD·95500·80 Wheel Trumg Stand
o
I I Part No. HD-9556Q.57 Transmlsslon Access Cover Puller 1979· early 1984
Part No. HD-95635·46 All Purpose Claw Puller
D
Part No. HO-95632·79 Gauge Pin Set
Part No. HD·95637·46 Wedge Attachment For Claw Puller
1·33
()))~
n
.J
I 1·1/8 " 3/4 " 5/8 " 9/32 " 1/2 " 7116 "
Part No. HO-95715-19A Gear Puller
Part No. HD·95760·69 Bushing and Bearing Puller Tool Set (Includes items 1, 2, 3, and 4.) Item 9 (95768-69), 10 (95769·69), 11 (95770·69), 12 (95771·69) and 6 (95759·75) are optional extras
Part No. HD·95952·33 Connecting Rod Clamping Tool
Part No. HD·95970·32A Piston Pin Bushing Tool
Part No. HD·96015·77 Sprocket Shaft Bearing, Inner Race Puller
Part No. HD·96030·77 Pinion Shaft Bearing, Inner Race Puller
Part No. HD·96137·52A Flywheel Support Plate
Part No. HD·96215·49 Small Internal Lock Ring Pliers
'·34
Part No. HO·96216·49 Large Internal Lock Ring Pliers
Part No. HD·96221 ·80 011 Filter Wrench
Part No. HD·96295·65B Timing Mark View Plug Part No. HD·96333·51 B Ring Compressor
Part No. HD·96396-52 Malnshaft 3rd Gear Retaining Ring Sleeve
Part No. HD·96550·36A Valve Lapping Tool
Part No. HO·966SO·SO TNlng Stand
Part No. HO·96710·40 Crankcase Main Bearing Lap
1·35
Part No. HD·96740·36 Connecting Rod Lapping Arbor
Part No. HD·96810·63 Motorcycle Shop Stand
Part No. HD·96921·52 Oil Pressure Gauge
Part No. HO·96796·47 Valve Spring Tester
Part No. HD·96910·35 Hydrometer
Part No. HO·97010-52A Shock Absorber Tool
( Part No. HD·97080·77 Pinion Shaft Inner Race Installation Guide
1·36
Part No. HD·97081·54A Sprocket Shaft Bearing Installation
=-
Part No. HD·97087·65A Hose Clamp Pliers
-
Part No. HD·97178·71 Clutch Spring Compressor 1979 . early 1984
Part No. HD·97200·55A Sprocket Locking Link
Part No. HD·97273·60 Camshaft Needle Bearing Installation Tool
Part No. HD·97292·61 Two Jaw Puller
Part No. HD·97334·80 Connecting Link Assembly Tool
Part No. HD·97362·71 Pin Terminal Tool
Part No. HD·97364·71 Socket Terminal Tool
1·37
CHASSIS
SUBJECT
1. 2.
3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11.
Specifications. . ......... • . . Wheels ............ • . •• . . Brakes. Front Forks. Rear Fork Rear Shock Absorber. Handlebar Controls and Instru ments Fenders. Specifications(XR·l000j. Wheels (XR·1 000j . Handlebar Controls (XR· 1000j
PAGE NO. 2·1
.2·5 . .... 2·25 . ..... 2·47
. ..... 2-53 .. .... 2·55 . .......... . . ....... ...... _.2·57 . ... 2-65 . _ ........ ... _ ...... 2-69
. .2·73 .2·77
I
SPECIFICATIONS DIMENSIONS (in.)
Oil Tank (U.S. Quarts)
1979-1981 .
1982
1979·1981 XLCH
Wheel Base. Overall Length. Overall Width. Overall Height Saddle Height
XlH
XlS
XlH
XlS
58.5 88.0 33.8 46.5
59.6
60 87.5 33 48.5 29 6.75
60.75 90 33 50.5 30.5 7.5
29.7
Road Clearance.
6 .•
89.6 29.2
42.5 29.7 6.8
ADJUSTMENTS
1983·1985 XlH XlS XlX 60.75 60 60 60 60 60 87.5 B7.S 87.5 33 33 35 45 48.5 47.5 6.75 6.75 6.75
Wheel Base (1983) WheeI8a5e(1984·1985). Overall Length Overall Width Overall Height. Road Clearance ..
Brakes Rear Brake Pedal Adjustment
WEIGHTS (Ibs.) ,--
XLX
XlS
XlH XLCH
492 481 468
527 525 523 491 478
522 512 512 489 476
Weight as shipped from the factory (1979·1981) (1982) . (1983) .
(Early 1984) . (Late1984·t985) .
513
-
VEHICLE WEIGHT RATINGS (Ibs.) The Gross Vehicle Weight Ratings (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWA) are found on a label on the frame steering head.
1979 XLH/XLS/XlCH GVWA
960 340 620
GAWR - Front GAWR - Rear
4
1982 and later ........... , ......... . 3 Transmission (U.S. Pints). , , . , . _.... _........... 1.5 Front Forks (Ounces per Fork) Wei (1979-1983) Soz. (1984-1985) . . ............. ... .... 5.4 oz. Dry(1979-1983) . Boz. (1984-1985) ..... ......... . . .. 6.4 oz.
1980·1985 XlHIXLS/XlX 900 320 580
CAPACITIES Fuel Ta nk (U.S. Gallons)
...... ,1116 in.
TORQUES Front axle nUl.
. ...... ".50 ft-Ibs
Rear axle nuts.
. .................... 60-6SIHbs
Sprocket mounting bolts (1979-1983) ..... 45 to 50 ft-Ibs Sprocket mounting bolts (1984-1985 laced wheels) ... _........... 45-50 ft-Ibs Sprocket mounting bolts (1984.1985 cast wheels) . . .50·55 ft·lbs Brake disc mounling front wilhcasl wheels (1979·1983) .......... 1410 16 f1·lbs with laced wheels ................... 1610 19 fHbs wilh cast or laced wheels (1984·1985) ... 1610 18 ft·lbs Brake disc mounling rear ............... 23 to 27 ft·lbs Caliper mounting bolls fronl (1979·1983) ................ . .. . 80 to 90 in·lbs front (1984·1985) . . .............. 25 to 30 fI·lbs rear ............................ 155 to 190 in·lbs Caliper clamping boll. . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 60 t065 It·lbs Upper bracket pinch bolt. . ........... 21 to 27 ft·lbs Lower bracket pinch bolts .......... .... 30 to 35 ft·lbs Slider cap nuts. .1 1 ft·lbs Throttle conlrol clamp screws 1979 ·1981 ......................... 12 to 16 in·lbs 1982·1985 . . .............. 18·24 in·lbs Handlebar c la mp screws (1979·1983) ... . 20 It·lbs Handlebar c la mp screws (1984·1985) . . . 12·15 ft·lbs Rear fork pivot shaft (1982· 1985) ............ 50 ft·lbs
1979
1980 1981
1982
1983
1984 1985
2.25 0.25
2.25 0.25
3.00 0.25
3.3 0.8
2.25 0.25
3.6 0.6
3.6 0.3
3.6 0.6
3.8 0.4
3.8 0.4
Front
Rear
2.25 0.25
2.25 0.25
10 in . 10 in.
11.5 in. 11.5 in.
XlH Total Reserve
BRAKE DISC
XlS Tota l Reserve
XlX Total Reserve
Minimum Thickness Front
Rear
.160
.205 .205
.180
2·1
TIRE DATA Up to 300 lb. load in· cluding rider with passenger and cargo
Tire Pressure (PSI) (Cold)
Front
Rear
26
30
26
32
Up to
GVWW max imu m load
*Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GYWA) is given on a label located on the frame.
1981 and Later Made in U.S.A. Harley-Davidson Heavyweight Motorcycle XLH CAH MOd8IDesi g nation* - - - - - - - - - - - -- - - --j xLs CBH En9ine DisplacementXLX CCH Regular Introduction Date XA-1000 CDH Ch8Ck Digit (Factory user' ~-----~ MOd81 Year (1985)" Plant of Manufacture (York)
II l I
'1 HD
CA
H
1
F
r Y
-----.e....S..equential Number' 010000
(2)
Mid-year Introduction * Abbreviated
VIN on Engine ·Varies - can be 0 thru 9 or X Sample V.I.N. as it appears on the steering head - 1 HD 1CAH1 5 FY010234 *
Sample abbreviated V.I.N. as it appears on the engine· CAHF 010000
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION NUMBER (V.I.N.)
TIRES
The full 17 digit serial, or Vehicle Identification Number {V.I.N.) is stamped on the steering head and on a label located on the right front frame downtube. An abbreviated V.I.N. is stamped on the right side crankcase near the front of the engine
Maximum cold inllation pressure of rear tires is 32 psi. Maximum cold inflation pressure 01 front tires is 40 psi.
WARNING
NOTE
Always give one of these numbers when ordering parts or making any inquiry about your motorcycle. 1980 and Earlier LEITERS XLH XLS
XlCH 2·2
MODEL NO. 3A 4E 4A
SERIAL #
MFR.
10000 & UP H·1970's {5 digils) J-1980's Harley· Davidson
YE . . R 0 (1980)
WARNING For your own personal safety tires, tubes and tubeless tires must be correctly matched to wheel rims. Tires and tubes listed in the fitment chart must be used exclusive· Iy for replacement. Mismatching tires, tubes and rims may result in damage to the tire bead during mounting or may allow the tire to slip on the rim, damaging the tube, causing rapid tire dellation. In addition, using tires and tubes other than those specified may adversely af· fect motorcycle stability. Use only tube type tires on Harfey-Davidson laced wheels. Protective rubber rim strips must also be used on laced wheels. Tire sizes are molded on the tire sidewall. Tube sizes are printed on the lube.
Tire Filmenl Chari 1979 XLH I XLCH I XLS WHEEL SIZE & POSITION
WHEEL
RIM CONTOUR-
HAALEY.oAVIDSON TIR E SERIES
GOODYEAR TUBe SIZE
GOODYEAR TIRE TYPE
GOODYEAR
TYPE
2.50 eM
N.A .
v 18119
Sport Rib
MM90-19T
Laced lEarl v 1979)
19 Inch Front
18 Inch
laced
TIRE SIZE
2.50 TLA
YYY
V 18/19
Eagle AfT
MJ90·19
Cast
2. 15 T L
YYY
V 18/19
Eagle ArT
MJ90·19
Laced (Early 1979)
2.50 eM
N.A.
W 18/19
All TRACTION
4.25·18T
V 18/19
Eag le AfT
MN90-18
G 5.10-16 G 5.10-16
Eag le AfT Eac le AfT
MT90-18
(Late 1979)
Rear
Cast
16 Inch Rear
Laced Cast
L
2.50 TL
N.A.
3.00 0 3.00 0
www WWW
I
MT90· 16
1980·1985 XLH I XLS I XLX WHEel SIZE & POSITION
WHEel
RIM
TUBe
TYPE
CONTOUR ·
SIZE
TIRE SIZE GOO DYEAR·EAGlE AfT or DUNLOP K18t
HARLEY.oAVIDSON TIRE SIZE
19 Inch
Laced
2.50 X 19 TLA
MJ90-19
MJ90·19
Front
Cast
2. 15 X 19 Tl
MJ90-19
MJ90·1g
yyy yyy
3.00 X 160
MT90· 16
MT90-16
WWW
Laced
or
16 Inch Rear
Cast
1985 XLH I XLS I XLX WHEel SIZE & POSITION
WHEel
RIM
TYPE
CONTOUR·
RIM VALVE HOLE OIA.
TIRE SIZE GOODYEAR·EAGlE AfT or DUNLOP K181
HARLEY.{)AVlOSON TIRE SIZE
19 Inch Front
Tubeless Cast
2.1 5 X 19 TL
.45 in .
MJ90·19
yyy
16 Inc h Rear
Tubeless Cast
3.00 X 160
.34 in.
MT90-l6
WWW
RIM CONTOUR·
RIM VALVE HOLE OIA.
TIRE SIZE GooDYEAR·EAGlE AfT or DUNLOP K181
HARlEY.{)AVIOSON TIRE SIZE
19831984 XR 1000 WHEel SIZE & POSITION
WHEEl TYPE
19 Inch Front
Tubeless Cast
2,15X19TL
.45 in .
100/90V-19
RRR
16 Inch Rear
Tu beless Cast
3.00 X 160
.34 In.
130/90V-16
ppp
"Rim s ize and contour are cast or stamped into the exterior surlace of the rim. Example: T19 x 2.50 CM DOT. " T" in· dlcates t hat t he rim con f orms to Tire and Rim Association standard s. 19 Is the norm al diameter of t he rim in inches, meas ured at the bead seat diameter. 2.50 is the width of the bead seat measu red in i nches . CM designates the rim contour. DOT means that the rim meets Department of Transportation Motor Veh ic le Safety Standards.
2·3
WHEELS GENERAL
WARNING
Maximum tife mileage and gOOd handling qualities are directly related to care given wheels and tires. Wheels and tires should be inspected regular ly for wear. If handling problems occur, check the TROUBLESHOOT· ING guide in Section 1 for possible causes.
Riding with excessively worn tires is very hazardous and will adversely affect traction, steering and handl. ing.
Always keep lires in flated to the recommended pres· sure and balance the wheel whenever a tire or tube Is replaced.
At regular intervals of 5000 miles, or at any time handl· ing irregu larit ies are experienced, see t he chart below for recommended service.
Check inflation pressure and inspect tread for punctures, cuts, breaks, etc., at least weekly. Check before going on trips, also.
II tires are replaced, same as original equipment ti res must be used. Other tires may not fit correctly and may be hazardous to use.
Wheel Service Chart CHECK FOR
1.
Loose axle nuts.
REMEDY Tighten front axle nut to 50 ft·lbs maximum torque. Tighten rear axle nuts 10 60·65 ft·lbs maximum torque.
2.
Excessive side·play or radial (up· and·down) play in wheel hubs.
Replace wheel hub bearings as described in INSPECTING AND REPAIRING WHEEL HUBS.
3.
Loose spokes.
Tighten or replace spokes as described under TRUING WHEELS and LACING WHEELS.
4.
Alignment of rear wheel in Irame and with Iront wheel.
Check wheel alignment as described in this sect ion or repair rear lork as described in REAR FORK.
5.
Rims and tires out·ol·true sideways, (should nol be more than 3/64 in.).
True wheels, replace rims or replace spOkes as described under LACING WHEELS and TRUING WHEELS.
6.
Rims and tires out·ol·round or ec· centric with hub (should not be more than 3{32 in.).
See Ilem 5, above.
7.
Irregu lar or peaked fronilire wear.
Replace as described in REMOVING AND INSTALLING FRO NT AND RE AR WHE EL, and REMOVING AND INSTALLING TIRE AND TUBE.
8.
Correct tire inflalion .
Inflat e Ilres to correct pressure, as described in SPECIFICA· TIONS .
9.
Correct tire and wheel balance.
Sialic balance may be satisfactory if dynamic balancing lacllitles are not available. However, dynamic balancing is also recommended.
10.
Steering head bearing s.
Correct adjustment and replace pitted or worn bearings. See FORKS.
".
Shock absorbers.
Check damping action and mounllng stud rubbers . See FORKS.
12.
Rear fork bearings.
Check for looseness. See FORKS.
2·5
FRONT WHEEL
WARNING When repairing a flat tire or Installing a new tire: Always locate and eliminate the cause of the original lire failure. Do not patch or vulcanize a tire casing because this weakens the casing and may cause a blowout. An Inner tube should be patched only as an emer· gency measure. Replace the damaged lube as soon as possible. Be sure the Inner tube Is the correct size for the Ure casing to prevent stretching or wrinkling of the tube which will weaken it .
Removal 1979·1983 MODELS IFigur. 2·1) 1. Support motorcycle undernea th frame with front wheel raised off Ihe ground. 2. Remove brake caliper mounling hardware (3) and reo move brake caliper assemblies (1 and 2). 3. Remove axle nul (6) , lockwasher (7) and washer (8). Loosen slider cap nuts (4). 4. Using a soft hammer, gently tap end of axle 10 loosen ii, then pull axle free of fork assembly. Remove fron t wheel and speedometer drive.
The use 01 tires other than those specified may ad· versely affect handling.
CAUTION
Because tires, lubes and wheels are critical safety items, the servicing of these items requires special tools and skills. Therefore, we recommend you see your dealer for these services .
Do not operate Iront brake lever when the front wheelis removed because the brake caliper piston may be forced out of the bore, requiring disassembly of the brake system to properly reseat brake caliper piston.
1. Right side caliper 2. Left sIde caliper 3. Caliper mounting bolts 4. Slider cap mounting nuts 5. Axle Figure 2·1 . Front Wheel Mounting -
2·6
6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
Axle nut Lockwasher Washer Speedometer drive Brake disc
1979·1983
1984·1985 MODELS (Figure 2·2) 1. Support motorcycle underneath frame with front
wheel raised off the ground.
2. Remove screws (7) securing brake discs (6) to hub (8).
3. Remove lire and tube from wheel. See TIRES.
2. Remove brake caliper mounting hardware and remove brake cail::>er assembly (6).
3. Remove axle nut, lockwasher and washer. Loosen slider cap nuts (7). 4 . Using a soft hammer, gently tap end of axle to
loosen It, then pull axle free of fork assembly. Remove front wheel and speedometer drive.
4. On laced wheels, if it Is necessary to remove the hub from the wheel, unscrew all the spoke nipples and remove the rim and spokes.
1984·1965 MODELS (Figure 2-4) 1. Remove and discard oil seals (1), then remove spacer
(2), bearing cone (3), and spacer (5). CAUTION Do not operate front brake lever when the front wheel is removed because the brake caliper piston may be forced out of the bore, requiring disassembly of the brake system to properly reseal brake caliper piston.
2. Remove screws (7) securing disc (6) to the wheel hub. NOTE
The brake discs on 'rant and resr wheel assemblies are attached with Torx screws. During removal or installation a special tool is required to fit the special recess in the screw head. The tool Is a T40 Torx driver or equivalent.
Disassembly 1979·1983 MODELS (Figure 2·3) 1. Remove 011 seats (1), spacer (2) and bearing cones (3). DIscard seals. For cast wheels use WHEEL BEAR· ING RACE REMOVER, Part No. HD·33071 to remove bearing cups (4). Remove spacer (5) from the hub. 2. Remove screws (7) securing brake discs (6) to hub (8).
3. Remove tire and, If applicable, the tube from the rim. See TIRES. 4. On laced wheels, if it Is necessary to remove the hub from the wheel, unscrew all the spoke nipples and remove the rim and spokes.
1. 011 seal (2) 2. Spacer 3. Bearing cone (2) 4. Bearing cup (2) S. Spacer 6. Brake disc (2) 7. Screw (10) 8. Cast wheel
•
.a.
5. Caliper mounting screw 6. Brake caliper
8. 9. 10. 11.
Figure 2-2. Front Wheel -
mounting nuts Axle Washer Lockwasher Axle nut
1984-1985
Figure 2-3. Front Wheel , 19 in. -
1979 - 1983
Cleaning, Inspection and Repair 1. Clean all parts in solvent and inspect for damage or
5. Lightly coat the outside lip of oil seals (1) with engine oil. Press one seal into each side of the hub flush with outer surface.
wear. 2. If bearing cones or cups need replacing, replace as a
set. 3. Replace brake disc if it is warped, scored or worn beyond the minimum thickness stamped on the disc. See SPECIFICATIONS.
6. Install spacer (2) i n left side of the hub.
7. If removed, install tire, and if applicable, the tube. Wheel and tire must be true. See applicable section TRUING LACED WHEEL or CHECKING CAST RIM RUNOUT.
4. Replace the oil seals.
5. On laced wheels, replace spokes, rim or hub if damaged.
Assembly
1984-1985 MODELS (Figure 2-4)
1. If the hub and rim were disassembled, assemble the hubs, spokes and rim as described in LACING WHEELS.
1979·1983 MODElS (Figure 2·3) 1. If the hub and rim were disassembled, reassemble the hub, spokes and rim as described in LACING WHEELS. 2. Make sure brake discs (6) are clean and then install using screws (7). Tighten to proper torque. See SPECIFICATIONS.
2. Make sure the brake disc is clean, then install it on the hub, aligning the notch in the disc with the hole in the hub. Secure the disc with Torx screws (7). Tighten screws to 16-18 ft·lbs torque using a T40 Torx driver.
3. Apply a liberal amount of bearing grease to the bear· 3. Apply a liberal amount of bearing grease to bearing cups (4) and press one into each side of the hub, using WHEEL BEARING RACE INSTALLER, Part No. HD-33071. 4. Place the spacer (5) into the hub. Apply a liberal
amount of bearing grease to the bearing cones (3), packing the cavities around the rollers. Install the cones in the matching cups (4).
ing cups (4) and press the cups into the hub. Using WHEEL BEARING RACE INSTALLER, Part No. HD·33071. 4. Place the spacer (5) into the hub. Apply a liberal amount of bearing grease to the bearing cones (3) packing the cavities around the railers. Install the cones in the matching cups (4). 5. Lightly coat the outside lip of oil seals (1) with
engine oii. Press one seal into each side of the hub flush with outer surface. 1. 2. 3. 4.
5. 6. 7.
8.
Oil seal (2) Spacer Bearing cone (2) Bearing cup (2) Spacer Brake disc Screw (10) Cast wheel
6. Install spacer (2) on the right side of the hub op-
posite the brake disc. 7. If removed, install tire and, if applicable, the tube. Wheel and tire must be true. See applicable section TRUING LACED WHEEL or CHECKING CAST RIM RUNOUT.
Installation "-:::::~/ /
/ /
1979-1983 MODELS
1. Pack the cavity between the oil seals and bearing cones with bearing grease.
/ /
/
2. Place wheel between fork sides with brake disc(s) centered between brake pads.
/
3. Apply LocHle ANTI-SEIZE to axle shaft and insert axle from right fork side through speedometer drive, wheel hub and left fork side. CAUTION
Figure 2·4_ Front Wheel
2·8
19 in_ -
1984-1985
Be sure speedometer cable Is routed outside brake line, away from fender and tire. Speedometer drive gear must engage hole in right side of wheel hub.
4. See Figure 2·1. Install washer (8), lockwasher <n and axle nut (6). 5. Initially, tighten slider cap nuts (4) only on nut side 01 axle to 11 fI·lbs torque. Tighten axle nut to 50 fI·lbs torque, then tighten the other slider cap nuts (4) to 11 fI·lbs torque. NOTE
After tightening slider cap nuts, check to see that front and rear gap between slider cap and fork leg Is equal. After proper tightening of axle nut, wheel bearing end play should be .004·.018 in. If wheel bearing end play is not correct, a shorter or longer hub bearing spacer (5, Figure 2·3) Is required. Spacers (5) are available In three lengths, 2.564 (Violet), 2.550 (Pink) and 2.536 (Gold) in.
6. Reinstall brake calipers. Tighten brake caliper mounting bolls to 80·90 In·lbs torque. Use new
WARNING After proper tightening 01 axle nut, wheel bearing end play should be .004·.018 In. If wheel bearing end play Is not correct, a shorter or longer hub bearing spacer (5, Figure 2.4), Is required. Spacers (5) are available In three lengths, 2.564 (VIolet). 2.550 (Pink) and 2.536 (Gold) In.
5. Reinstall brake calipers. Tighten brake caliper mounting bolts to 25·30 It·lbs torque.
REAR WHEEL Removal (Figure 2·5) t. Raise rear end of motorcycle high enough to permit removing wheel. Support motorcycle with suitable blocking underneath frame. 2. Locate and remove chain connecllng link and dis·
engage chain from rear sprocket.
locknuts.
3. Remove axle nut, axle nutlockwasher and washer. WARNING Locknut threads are destroyed when nuts are removed . Use new locknuts when reinstalling brake calipers.
4. With a soft hammer, gently tap end of axle to loosen
it, then pull axle free 01 frame assembly. Remove wheel. CAUTION Do not operate rear brake pedal when rear wheel is removed because the brake caliper pi ston may be forced out of the bore, requiring disassembl y of the brake system to properly reseat brake caliper piston.
1984·1985 MODELS
1. Pack the cavity between the 011 seals and bearing cones with bearing grease.
2. Place the wheel between fork sides with the brake disc centered between the brake pads.
3. Apply Loctlte ANTI·SEIZE to axle shaft, then Insert ax le from the right fork side through the wheel hub, speedometer d rive and left fork side. The speedometer drive gear must engage Ihe hole in the brake disc and hole in the left side of the hub.
CAUTION Be sure the speedometer cable Is routed below the brake caliper and parallel with the brake line hOle. 4. See Fig ure 2·2. Install washer (9), lockwasher (10) and axle nut ( II ).
5. Ini tially, tigh ten slider cap nuts <n only on nut side 01 axle to 11 ft·lbs torque. Tighten axle nut 1050 It·lbs torque, then lighten the other slider cap nuts <n to 11 fI·l bs torq ue. NOTE
After proper tightening of slider cap nuts, check to see that fron t and rear gap between slfdercap and fork leg is equal.
Figure 2·5. Rear Wheel Mounting
2·9
Disassembly
3. Remove bolts (12), washers (13) and sprocket (14).
CAST WHEElS (Figure 2-6)
1979·1983 1. Remove the two retaining rings (1), washers (2), oil seals (3), spacers (4, 5), bearings (6), and spacer (8). Discard oil seals. Use WHEEL BEARING RACE REMOVERIINSTALLER, Part No. HD·33071. 2. Remove screws (10) and brake disc (11).
CAST WHEELS (Figure 2·7)
1984·1985 1. Remove oil seals (3), spacers (4, 5), bearings (6), and spacer (8), Discard oil seals, Use WHEEL BEARING RACE REMOVER liN STALLER, Part No. HO-33071 to remove bearing cups (7) from wheel (9).
1. Retaining ring (2) 2. Washer (2) 3. Oil seal (2)
4. Spacer 5. Spacer 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13.
14.
Bearing cone (2) Bearing cup (2) Spacer Wheel Screw (5) Brake disc Bolt (5) Washer (5) Sprocket
15. Axle 16. Washer 17. lockwasher 18. Nut
14
Figure 2·6. Rear Wheel
2·10
Cast -
1979·1983
2. Remove screws (10) and brake di sc (11). 3. Remove bolts (12), washers (13) and sprocket (14).
3. Remove bolts (1 3), lockwashers (14), locknut s (15) and sprocket (16). 4. If it Is necessary to remove the hub from the wheel ,
unscrew all spoke ni pples and remove the rim and spokes from the hub.
LACED WHEELS (Figure 2 -8) 1979·1983 1. Remove the two retai ning ri ngs (1), washers (2), oi l seals (3), spacers (4, 5), bearings (6), and spacer (7).
Discard all seals. Use a standard bearing puller to remove bea ring cups from hub (8). 2. Remove screws (9), lockwashers (10), lockn uts (11) and brake di sc (12).
LACED WHEElS (Figure 2·9) 1984·1985 1. Remove the oil seals (3), spacers (4 , 5), bearings (6), and spacer (7). Disca rd oil sea ls. Use a standard bearing puller to remove bearing cups from hub (8). 2. Remove screws (9), lockwashers (10), lock nuts (11) and brake disc (12).
1. Nut 2. Lockwasher 3. Oil seal (2) 4. Spacer (short) S. Spacer (long) 6. Bearing cone (2) 7. Bearing cup (2) 8. Spacer 9. Wheel 10. Screw (5) 11 . Brake disc 12. Bolt (5) 13. Washer (5) 14. Sprocket 15. Axle 16_ Washer
/
11
Figure 2·7. Rear Wheel · Cast -
1984·1985
2·11
3. Remove bolts (13), lockwashers (14), locknuts (15) and sp rocket (16).
1. Clean al l pa rts in solven t and i nspect for damage or wear.
2. If beari ng cones or cups need repl acing, replace as a 4. If it is necessary to remove the hu b from the wheel, unscrew al l spoke nipples and remove the rim and spokes from the hub.
Cleaning, Inspection and Repair
set.
3. Replace brake disc it it is warped, scored or worn beyond the mi nimum thickness stamped on t he disc. See SPECIFICATIONS.
2. /
19 18
@I/ ~@
17 1. Retaining ring (2) 2. Washer (2) 3. 011 seal (2) 4. Left spacer 5. Right outer spacer 6. Bearing (2) 7. Spacer 8. Hub 9. Screw (5) 10. Loekwasher (5)
11. 12. 13. 14. 15.
16. 17. 18. 19. 20.
Locknut (5) Brake disc Bolt (5) Lockwasher (5) Locknut (5) Sprocket Axle Washer Lockwasher Nut
Figure 2·8. Rear Wheel, Laced -
2·12
1979·1983
using screws (10). Apply Loc tite STUD N' BEA RIN G MOU NT and tighten screws to 23 to 27 ft·lbs torque.
4. Replace the all seals.
5. On laced wheels, replace the spokes, rim or hub if damaged.
2. Install the sprocket (14) using bolts (12) and washers (13). Tighten bolts to 45·50 f1·lbs torque.
Assembly CAST WHEELS (Figure 2·6) 1979·1963
3. Apply a li beral amount of bearing grease to bearing c ups and press one Into each side of the hub using WHE EL BEARING RACE INSTALLER, Part No.
1. Make sure brake disc is clean and then Install disc
HD·33071.
16
17
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 6. 9.
Lockwasher Nut Oil seal (2) Left spacer (short) R~ht outer spacer (long) Bearing (2) Spacer Hub Screw
10. Lockwasher (5) 11 . Locknut (5) 12. Brake disc 13. Bolt (5) 14. Lockwasher (5) 15. Locknut (5) 16. Sprocket 17. Axle 18. Washer
Figure 2·9. Rear Wheel · Laced -
1984·1985
2·13
4. Place the spacer (8) into the hub. Apply a liberal amount of bearing grease to the bearing cones (6), packing the cavities around the rollers. Install the cones in the matching cups. 5. Lightly coat the outside lip of new oil seals (3) with engine oil. Press one seal into each side of the hub until it is 3/16 in. to 1/4 in. below outside edge of hub. Fill the cavity between the bearing and seal with bearing grease. 6. Install the short spacer (4) on disc side and long spacer (5) on sprocket side of hub. 7. Install washers (2) and retaining rings (1).
8. Wheel and tire must be true. See applicable section, CHECKING CAST RIM RUN OUT. CAST WHEElS (Figure 2·7)
3.lnstall the sprocket (16) using bolts (13), lockwashe rs (14) and locknuts (15). Tighten bolts to 45-50 ft-Ibs torque. 4. Apply a liberal amount of bearing grease to bearing cups and press one into each side of the hub. 5. Place the spacer (7) into the hub. Apply a liberal amount of bearing grease to the bearing cones (6) packing the cavities around the rollers. Instal l the cones in the matching cups. 6. Lightly coat the outside lip of the new oil seals (3) with engine oil Press one seal into each side of the hub until it is 3/16 in. to 1/4 in . below outside edge of hub. Fill the cavity between the bearing and seal with bearing grease. 7. Install the short spacer (4) on disc side and long spacer (5) on sprocket side of hub.
1984·1985 8. Install washers (2) and retaining rings (1). 1. Make sure brake disc is clean and then inst all disc using screws (10). Apply Loctite STUD N' BEARING MOUNT and tighten screws to 23-27 ft·lbs torque.
9. Wheel and tire must be true. See applicab le section, TRUING LACED WHEEl.
2. Install the sprocket (14) us ing bolls (12) and washers (13). Tighten bolts to 50-55 ft·lbs torque. LACED WHEELS (Figure 2·9) 3. Install a liberal amount of bearing grease to bearing cups and press one into each side of the hub using WHEEL BEARING RACE INSTALLER, Part No. HD·33071. 4. Place the spacer (8) into the hub. Apply a libera l amount of bearing grease to the bearings cones (6), packing the cavities around the rollers. Install the cones in the matching cups. 5. Lightly coat the outside lip of oi l seals (3) with engine oil. Press one seal into each side of the hub until it is 3/16 in. to 114 in . below outs ide edge of hub. Fill the cavity between the bearing and seal with bearing grease. 6. Install the spacers (4) and (5) in the hub. 7. Wheel and tire must be true. See applicable section, CHECKING CAST RIM RUN OUT.
1984·1985 1.lf the hub and rim were disassembled, reassemble the hub, spokes and rim as described in LACING WHEELS. 2. Make sure brake disc (12) is clean and then install disc using screws (9), lockwashers (10) and locknuts (11). App ly Loctile STUD N' BEARING MOUNT and lighten screws to 23·27 ft-Ibs torque. 3. Install the sprocket (16) using bolts (13), lockwashers (14) and locknuts (15). Tighten bolls to 45-50 fI-lbs torque. 4. App ly a liberal amount of bearing grease to bearing cups and press one into each side of the hUb. 5. Place the spacer (7) into the hub. Apply a libera l amount of bearing grease to the bearing cones (6), packing the cavities around the rollers. Install the cones in the matching cups.
LACED WHEELS (Figure 2·8)
1979·1983 1. If the hub and rim were disassembled, reassemble the hub, spokes and rim as described in LACING WHEELS. 2. Make sure brake disc (12) is clean and then install disc using screws (9), lockwashers (10) and locknuts (11). Apply Loctite STUD N' BEARING MOUNT and tighten screws to 23-27 ft-Ibs torque.
2·14
6. Lightly coat the outside lip of the new oil seals (3) with engine oil. Press one seal into each side of the hub until it is 0.20 in. to 0.22 in. below outside edge of hub. Fill the cavity between the bearing and seal with bearing grease. 7. Install the spacers (4) and (5) in the hub
8. Wheel and tire must be true. See the section TRUING LACED WHEEl.
Installation 1. Place wheel centrally In the rear swing arm with the brake disc In the caliper, and place the chain onlo the sprocket. 2. Apply l octlte ANTI·S EIZE to axle shaft, then Insert axle through the left side 01 swing arm, through the rear caliper bracket, wheel and right side of swing arm. 3. Inslall lIatwasher, lockwasher and nut. Tighten axle nut to60-65 fI·lbs torque.
WARNING Wheel bearing end play should be .004 to .018 In. when axle nulls tightened to 65·70 tt·lbs torque. It end play Is not correct, substitute a s1ighlly longer or shorter spacer, (8, Figure 2·6 and 2·7) or (7, Figures 2·8 and 2·9) as necessary. Spacers are available In three lengths, 3.937 (Red), 3.951 (Green), and 3.923 (Blue) in. for 1979·1981 models and 4.420 (Orange), 4.434 (Yellow) and 4.448 (White) In. tor 1982 and later models.
Late Style Hub - See Figure 2-11. Pick any outside spoke hole and sight straight across the hub. The IIrst spoke hole to the right of the centerline Is an outside spoke hole. Also, with the wheel assembled, all Inner spokes on opposite sides of the wheel cross and all outer spokes on opposite sides of the wheet cross. See Figure 2-13.
2. There are two thread patterns used on the spokes and nipples. Align all the spokes next to each other on a table. Match the fine-threaded spokes with flnethreaded nipples and coarse-threaded spokes with coarse-threaded nipples. Do not Intermix the thread patterns. Also, straighten or replace any bent spokes.
.." Inner rows of spoke holes
4. Check for proper chain tension as described in Sec·
tlon 6, REAR CHAIN and align wheel as described in this section under TIRES, Wheel Alignment.
LACING WHEELS - 16 INCH 1. There are two styles of wheel hubs and they are Identified as follows: Earty Style Hub - See Figure 2-10. Pick any outside spoke hole anc! sight straight across the hub. The first spoke hOle to the right of the centerline is an Inner spoke hole. Also, with the wheel assembled, all Inner spokes on opposite sides of the wheel angle In the same di rection and all ou ter spokes on opposite sides of the wheel angle In the same direction. See Figure 2-12.
Outer rows of spoke holes
Outer spoke (counterclockwise)
Inner spoke (clockwi se) Line of sight
Figure 2·11 . Late Style Hub
.."
Inner spokes on opposite sides of wheel angle In
~~~:iE=~~ d irection
Inner rows of spoke holes
Outside spoke (clockwi se)
Inner spoke (counterclockwise)
Figure 2·10. Early Style Hub
Ten groups 01 four spokes Figure 2-12. Early Style Laced Wheel
2·15
Inner spokes on opposite sides of wheel cross
11)40
.."
First outside spoke cross four inside spokes
#~
fa~
:~
~;<
A
c Ten groups of tour spokes Figure 2·13. Late Style Laced Wheel
Figure 2·14. Cross·4 Pattern spokes In the opposite direction as the other side so the inner spokes cross each other. 9. See TRUING LACED WHEEl.
3. Place the hub on the bench with either flange up. 4. See Figure 2-10 and 2-11.lns8rI10 spokes Into the upper lIange inner spokes holes. Swing the loose ends clockwise as far as they will go.
LACING WHEELS - 19 INCH NOTE
NOTE
When lacing an old style hub, inner spokes may be started clockwise or counterclockwise because a1/ inner spokes angle In the same direct/on. 5. See Figure 2-12 and 2-13. The rim Is divided Into len groups of spoke holes, 4 holes to a group. In each group, only one hole will be angled toward each upper flange inner spoke. Place the rim over the hub, either side up, and insert the spokes into these holes. Secure each spoke with a nipple screwed on the end about 3 turns, just enough to hold II In place.
The (Of/owIng procedure applies for both single and dual disc wheels.
1. See Figure 2-15. Divide spokes into 2 groups. Inner spokes have long headS, outer spokes have short heads. There are also fine and coarse threaded spokes and nipples. Match up fine·threaded spokes with IIne·threaded nipples and coarse·threaded spokes wi th coarse·threaded nipples . Do not inter· mix the thread patterns.
6. When all 20 inner spokes are Installed, Insert a spoke into an outside spoke hole on the same flange side. See Figure 2-10 and 2- 11 .
Outer spoke (s hort·head)
Inner spoke (Iong·head)
7. See Figure 2- 13. Swing the outer spoke In the op· posite direction crossing over 4 inner spokes , and secure the spoke in the nearest hole ang led towards it. Repeat the procedure for all outer spokes.
NOTE All Harley·Davldson laced wheels use a CROSS·4 pat· tern, Figure 2·14. Each outer spoke must cross 4 inner spokes before entering rim hole.
8. Carefully flip the hub and rim assembly over and repe at the process. If lacing an earl y style hub, start by swinging the Inner spokes in the same direction as the other side. On late style hubs, swing the inner 2·16
Figure 2·15. Spo«e Identification
2. See Figure 2-16. Place hub on bench either side up. Insert one ouler spoke (short.head) into any bottom flange hole and swing it clockwise. Insert an inner spoke (Iong·head) in the next hole to the left of the outer spake. Swing the inner spoke counter· clockwise over the outer spoke.
3. Insert an inner spoke into the hole on the top flange that directly bisects the two spokes in the bottom flange. Insert all remaining spokes in both hub flanges alternating the inner and outer spokes.
4. See Figure 2-18. With all 40 spokes inserted in hub, group all spokes on top flange into 2 bundles. Se· cure each group with throttle grips or tape to keep the spokes together. 5. Swing all bottom flange outer spokes (short.head) clockwise. Swing the inner spokes (Iong.head) counterclockwise, crossing over the outer spokes. Angle all spokes as far as they will go without over· lapping the next LIKE spoke. For instance, swing an outer spoke (short.head) clockwise as far as it will go before crossing another outer spoke.
6. Center the rim over the hub assembly. Undo each top bundle and fan the spokes out around the top rim edge.
7. See Figure 2-17. The rim is divided into ten groups of spoke holes, 4 holes to a group. Each group has two holes on the left and two holes on the right, angled inward towards each other. Only one hole in each group will be angled toward the bottom flange inner spoke (Iong·head). Lace all bottom flange inner spokes into these holes. Secure each spoke with a nipple screwed on the end abOut 3 turns. NOTE
Hub and spoke assembly may have to be spun slightly within the rim to aI/ow proper spoke·to·rim alignment. Keep the bottom flange spokes crossed In correct pas;· tion when spinning the hub. Also, keep the top flange spokes fanned around the rim. If they fall off the rim and become tangled in the bottom flange spokes, the hub will not rotate and it might be necessary to unlace the wheel to untangle them.
8. Next lace the 10 bottom flange outer spokes (short· head). Only one hole in each group of rim spoke holes will be angled toward these spokes. Secure each spoke with a nipple screwed on abOut 3 turns.
1~55
9. Lace all the top flange inner spOkes, one at a time Inner spoke (Iong.head)
leaving the outer spokes resting on the rim. Swing the top flange inner spokes clockwise.
10. Now lace the top flange outer spokes. Swing them counterclockwise and make sure each one crosses 4 inner spokes before securing it to the rim. 11. See TRUING LACED WHEEL.
TRUING LACED WHEEL
Figure 2·16. Lacing'19 in. Wheel
1. See Figure 2-19. Divide the wheel spokes into 4 groups of 4 and mark the center of each group with a piece of tape. The groups should be directly across from one another and approximately 90 0 apart.
\ VI
Figure 2·17. Grouping The Spokes 2·17
('~~
on am
Figure 2·18. Bundling Top Spokes
;;L:::::=::::;==~-t"" ;~ Straightedge
LI
~ ~d~2340 ~~
~
2.400
Figure 2-20. Centering 16 In. Hub
Figure 2·19. Marking Spoke Groups
NOTE All Harley·Davldson laced wheels use a cross·4 pattern. Each outer spoke must cross four Inner spokes before entering rim hole. TIghten the spokes In these four groups finger tight, leaving al/ others loose. 2. Install truing arbor In wheel hub and place wheel In WHEEL TRUING STAND, Part No. HD-99500·29A. Tighten arbor nuts so hub will turn on its bearings. 3. See Figure 2-20 and 2-21. The hub must be centered sideways with the rim. Lay a straightedge across the hub brake disc flange and one of the marked spoke groups. Measure the distance from the straightedge to the rim as shown. If this dimension Is not equal on both sides 01 the wheel, loosen and tighten the 4 spokes accordingly. Use SPOKE WRENCH, Part No. HD·94681-80.
NOTE Dimension A (Figu re 2-20 and 2·21) must be maintaIned to ensure centering of wheel on motorcycle. 2·18
.1.
T1
J--' A
Straightedge Figure 2·21. Centering 191n. Hub
EXAMPLE If the measurement on the rim right side is greater than the teft side, loosen the two spokes attached to the hub left side and tighten the two spokes attached to the hub right side. Turn all 4 spokes an equal number of turns until dimension is equal to within 1132" for both sides.
CAUTION Always loosen the appropriate spokes before tightening the other two. Reversing this procedure will cause the rim to become out·ol·round. 4. Repeat Step 3 for all four groups on the wheel.
5. See Figure 2-22. After rim has been centered sideways it must be checked and trued radially. Adjust truing stand gauge to the rims tire bead seat as shown. The ri m should be trued within 1132~.
6. Spin the rim slowly. If the rim contacts the gauge on or near a marked group of spokes, loosen the spokes in the marked group on the opposite side of the rim. Now tighten the spokes In the group where the rim makes contact. Loosen and tighten spokes an equal number of turns. If the rim contacts the gauge between two marked groups, loosen the spokes in both opposite groups and tighten the spoke groups on the side of the rim that makes contact. runout
7. When the wheel is centered and trued, start at the valve hole and tighten the rest of the spoke nipples one turn at a time until they are snug.
8. Seat each spoke head in the hub flange using a flat nose punch and hammer. Then check wheel true· ness again and tighten the nipples accordingly.
Gauge
Spoke nipple wrench
Figure 2·22. Truing Rim Radially
Figure 2·23. Checking Cast Rim Lateral Runout
Gauge
Figure 2·24. Checking Cast Rim Radial Runout
2·19
CAUTION Over tighten ing spokes may cause nipples to be drawn through rim, or hub fl anges to be distorted. Spokes left too loose continue to loosen when wheel is put into service.
Some Ures have arrows molded Into the tire sidewall. These ti res should be mounted on the rim with the arrow pointing in the direction of forward rotation. The colored dot on the sidewall is a balance mark and should be located next to the valve stem hole. WARNING
9. File or grind off ends of spokes protruding through nipples to prevent puncturing tube when tire is mounted.
10. Check dimension A (Figures 2-20 and 2-21) and retrue wheel if not within specifications,
CHECKING CAST RIM RUNOUT
Always check both tire sidewalls for arrows indicating proper forward rotation. Some tires requlr. different tire rotation depending on whether tire is used on front or relr wheel.
Removal 1. Remove wheellrom motorcycle. See WHEELS.
The die-cast wheels should be checked lor lateral and radial runout belore Installing a new Ure or tube. 1. See Figure 2-23. Install arbor In the wheel hub and place wheel In the truing stand. To check rim lateral runout, place a gauge rod or dial IndIcator near the rim bead. II lateral runout exceeds 3/64 in., replace the wheel.
2. let the air out of the tube or tire. 3. See Figure 2-25. loosen both beads from rim flange by stepping on sides of ti re or by using a Ure tool. Stand or kneel on tire opposite valve and push bead Into rim well. Repeat for other side. NOTE
2. See Figure 2-24. Check lor radial runout as shown here. Replace the wheel If runout exceeds 1/32 In.
TIRES General Tires should be Inspected for punctures, cuts, breaks and wear at least weekly. Whenever a Ure Is replaced, the tube should also be replaced. Inner tubes shou ld be patched only as an emergency measure. Replace a damaged tube as soon as possIble.
A bead breaker machine wffl be required to break the bead on 16 In. wheels.
4. Apply RIM PROTECTO RS, Part No. HD-01298 to the rim. Using tire tools (not sharp Instruments), Figure 2·16, start upper bead over edge of rim at valve. Do not use excessive force when starting bead over rim. Bead wires may be damaged ruining the tire. Repeat all around rim until first bead is over rim. Remove the tube on tube type wheels. 5. Push lower bead inlo rim well on one side and Insert lire tool underneath bead from opposite side. Pry bead over rim edge. Remove tire from rim.
Inner tubes must be used on all Harley·Davidson wheels except cast wheels which are clearly marked for tubeless tires. Rim bands must be used on all laced wheels.
Flgur. 2·25. loosening Tlra Beads
2·20
Figure 2·26. Starting Tire Oft Rim
6. On tubeless tire rims, remove the valve stem if it is damaged or leaks.
2. Thoroughly lubricate the rim flanges and both beads of the tire with tire lubricant.
NOTE
3. See Figure 2-28. Starting at the valve stem hole, start the first bead Into the rim well. Work the bead on as far as possible by hand. Use the tire tool to pry the remaining bead over the rim flange.
On tube type wheels it is not necessary to completely remove tire {rom rim. Removing one side allows the tube to be replaced and allows for inspection of tire.
7. Mount the tire on TIRE SPREADER, Part No. HD·21000 for Inspection and repair procedures.
Cleaning, Inspection And Repair 1. Clean the inside of tire and outer surface of tube. 2. If rim is dirty or rusty, clean with a stiff wire brush. 3. Inspect the tire and tube for wear and damage. Replace worn tires. Replace damaged tube. Use TIRE REPAIR KIT, Part No. HD·20000 for tire repair. Follow the kit manufacturer's instructions.
Installation
4. Inflate tube just enough to round il out. Lubricate thorough ly 360· around the tube base. Insert tube in tire with valve stem In hole. 5. See Figure 2-29. Starting 180 · from valve stem, start the second bead onto the rim. Work the bead onto the rim with tire lools, working toward valve in both directions. Remove the valve core from valve stem before prying the remaining bead over the rim flange. 6. Make sure valve stem moves in and out freely, then inflate the tire 10 recommended pressure to seat the bead. See SPECIFICATIONS. Then deflate tire to allow inner tube to smooth out. Install the valve core, then inflate to recommended pressure.
TUBelESS TIRES
TUBE TYPE TIRES
,. If removed , Install a new valve stem. WARNING
Use the correct Inner tube and tire as specified. See TIRE DATA In SPECIFICATIONS. 1. See Figure 2-27. On laced wheels, Install a rim strip into the rim well. Make sure no spokes protrude through nipples and be sure to align the valve stem hole in rim strip wilh hole in rim.
2. Thoroughly lubricate the rim flanges and both beads of the tire with tire lubricant. 3. Starling at the valve stem, start the first bead into the rim well. Work the bead on as far as possible by hand. Use a tire tool 10 pry Ihe remaining bead over the rim flange.
""
Figure 2·27. Installing Rim Strip
Figure 2·28. Starting Bead On Rim 2·21
4. Start the second bead on the rim. Work the bead on· to the rim with tire tools, working toward the valve in both directions.
5. Remove the valve core from the stem. Apply air to the stem to seat the beads on the rim. It may be necessary to use a BEAD EXPANDER, Part No. HD·28700 on the tire until the beads seal on the rim. 6. Deflate the tire, Install the valve core, then Inflate the tire to recommended pressure. WARNING Do not Inflate over 40 psi to seat the beads. Inflating the tire beyond 40 psi to seat the beads can cause the tire rim assembly to burst with force sufficient to cause per· sonal Injury. If the beads fall to seat to 40 psi, deflate and relubrlcate the bead and rim and reinflate to seat the beads but do not exceed 40 pSi.
Checking Tire Lateral Runout 1. Check runout by turning wheel on axle, measuring amount of sideways displacement from a fixed point near the tire (see Figure 2-30). 2. Tire tread runout should be no more than 3/64 In. It lire tread runout is more than 3/64 In., remove tire from rim and check rim bead side runout to see If rim is at fault.
Checking Tire Radial Runout 1. Check runout by turning wheel on axle, measuring tread runout (see Figure 2-31).
2. Tire tread runout should be no more than 3/32 in. If tire tread runout is more than 3/32 in., remove lire from rim and check rim bead runout to see it rim is at fault.
3. If rim bead runout is less than 1/32 in., tire Is at fault and should be replaced. If rim bead runout Is more than 1132 in., correct by lightening selected spoke nipples on laced wheels or replacing the cast rim. Reinstall tire and recheck tire tread runout.
Wheel Alignment NOTE
Rims and tires must be true as outlined in the previous paragraphs, before checking wheel alignment. 1. See Figure 2-32. Place a straightedge against the front and rear tire sIdewalls as far up as possIble. 2. With the front wheel pointing straight ahead, both front and rear wheels should be in perfect align· ment. Al18
I-
3. Jt rim side runout is less than 1132 In., tire is at fault and should be replaced. If rim side runout is more than 1/32 In., correct by tightening selected spoke nipples on laced wheels or replacing the cast rim. Reinstall old tire and recheck lire tread lateral runout.
I ,
TI,. 'a'e,., mnou'
~ Gauge
Figure 2·30. CheckIng Tire Lateral Runout AilS
pr=~ j "?~ ~ 9 !
Gauge
-JL
n
Tire radial runout
Figure 2·29. Starting Second Bead On Rim 2·22
Figure 2·31 . Checking Tire Radial Runout
"111
Side view Rear
Front
C@) ""r-..C@) Top view
ShUt axle in rear fork to correct misalignment Rear
(1 !
:
J
Front
~;f
:
Cast aluminum wheels require the special self·adheslve weights listed below. Aluminum color
Black
1 oz. weight
1 oz. weight 1/2 oz. weight
112 oz. weight
1. Sell adhesive wheel weights should be applied to the flat surface of the rim. Make sure that area of ap· plication is completely clean, dry and free of 011 and grease.
2. Remove paper backing from weight and press firmly in place. If t oz. or more of weight must be added al one localion, split Ihe amounl so thai half is applied to each side of the rim.
Straightedge Figure 2·32. Wheel Alignment Diagram
Wheel Balancing Wheel balancing is recommended to improve handling and reduce vibration, especially at high road speeds. Harley·Davldson has made available the following spoke balance weights which press over the spoke nipple. 1/2 oz. weight 3/4 oz. welghl 1 oz. weight
3. Wheel should not be used for 48 hours to allow adhesive to cure completely. 4. In most cases, static balancing using WHEEL TRU· ING STAND, Part No. HD·95500-80 will prOduce satisfactory results. However, dynamic balancing, utilizing a wheel spinner, can be used to produce finer tolerances for besl high speed handling char· acteristlcs. Follow the Instructions supplied with the balance machine you are using. The maximum weight permissible to accomplish balance Is 3·1/2 oz. total weight applied to the rim. Wheels should be balanced to within 1/2 oz. at 60 mph.
2·23
BRAKES GENERAL The Iront and rear brakes are fully hydraulic disc brake systems, requiring little maintenance. The front brake master cylinder is an integral part of the brake hand lever assembly. The rear brake master cylinder is located on the right side of the motorcycle near the brake pedal. Every 2500 miles, check the master cylinder reservoirs for proper fluid levels. With the reservoir In a level position, add O.O.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID as needed. Every 2500 miles, check brake pads and discs lor wear. If brake pads are worn to 1116 in. or less they should be replaced. Minimum brake disc thickness is stamped on side of disc. Also al 2500 mile intervals, check the rear brake master
cylinder push rod free play. The push rod should have 1116 in. movement before contacting the piston assembly. WARNING Use a non路llammable cleaning solvent for cleaning com路 ponent parts. DO NOT use gasoline or other lIammable sUbstances. WARNING Always clean brake components by washing In denat路 ured alcohol or brake lIuid. DO NOT use minerai base cleaning solvents such as gasoline or paint thinner. Use of mineral base solvents causes deterioration of rubber parts that continues after assembly and can result in component failure.
TROUBLESHOOTING Use the following troubleshooting guide to help in determining probable causes of poor brake operation. CONDITION
CHECK FOR:
REMEDY:
Ex.cessive lever or pedal travel or spongy feel
Air in system Master cylinder low on lIuid
Bleed brake{s) Fill master cylinder with approved brake fluid
Chattering sound when brake is applied
Worn or defective pads Loose mounting bolts Warped disc
Replace brake pads Tighten bolts Replace disc
Ineffective brake lever or pedal travels to limit
Low fluid level
Fill master cylinder with approved brake fluid Rebuild cylinder
Ineffective brake lever or pedal travel normal
Distorted disc Distorted or contaminated brake pads
Brake pads drag on disc will not retract
Cup In master cylinder not uncovering relief port Rear brake pedal linkage out of adjustment
Piston cup defective
Replace disc Replace pads Inspect master cylinder Adjust linkage
2路25
FRONT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER
1. Open the bleeder screw on the front calipers and drain the brake f luid by pumping the hand lever.
Removal and Disassembly
2. Disconnect hydraulic hose (20) from master cylinder.
1979路1981 MODELS (Figure 2路33)
3. Remove masler cylinder cover (2) and gasket (3), by removing screws (4).
NOTE
The mas ter cylinder should only be disassembled if problems are being experienced. When disassembling master cylinder all seals should be discarded and a complete rebuild kit ins talled.
4. Remove handlebar switch assembly and disconnect stoplamp wires. 5. Remove retain ing ri ng (6) and pivot pin (7), Pu llout brake lever (8), pin (9), pl unger (10) spring (11), washers (12), and dust wiper (13),
CAUTION
When removing master cylinder cover, make sure that all dirt Is removed to prevent dirt from entering reservoir. Master cylinders should be filled to the gasket surface with the reservoir in a level position.
21 ~
6. Remove ret aining ring (14) with RETAI NING RING PLIE RS, Part No. HO-962 15-49. 7. Pull out piston (15), O-ring (16), piston cup (17), spring cup (18), and piston return spring (19),
1
_ 23
Figure 2路33. Front Hydraulic Mester Cylinder 2-26
1. Master cylinder 2. Cover 3. Gasket 4. Screw (2) 5. Right angle fitting (2) 6. Retaining ring 7. Pivot pin 8. Brake lever 9. Pin 10. Plunger 11. Spring 12. Washer (2) 13. Oust wiper 14. Retaining ring 15. Piston 16. O-ri ng 17. Piston cup 18. Spring cup 19. Spring 20. Brake hose 21 . Bolt and lockwasher 22. Tee 23. Brake hose
1979路1981
1982 Model (Figure 2·34) CAUTION When removing master cylinder cover, make sure that all dirt is removed to prevent dirt from entering reservoir. Master cylinders should be filled to the gasket surface with the reservoir In a level position. 1. Open bleeder nipple on front caliper(s) and dra in brake fluid by pumping hand lever. 2. Disconnect hydraulic brake line (7) from masler cylinder, by removing bolt (5) and washers (6). Discard washers (6). 3. Remove master cylinder screws (4), cover (2) and gasket (3).
4. Remove retaining ring (8), pivot pin (9), brake lever (10) and reacllon pin (23). 5. Remove master cylinder from handlebar by removing screws (13) and clamp (14). 6. Pull oul push rod (22), dust boot (21), piston and o·ring (19 and 20), back up disc )18), cup (17), stop (16) and spring (15). 7. Remove sighl glass (11) and grommet (12).
1983·1985 MODELS (Figures 2·37 and 2·38) CAUTION When removing master cylinder cover, make sure that all dirt Is removed to prevent dirt from entering the reser· voir. Master cylinders should be filled to the gasket sur· face with the reservoir in a level position. 1. Open bleeder nipple on front calipers(s) and drain brake fluid by pumping hand lever. 2. Disconnect hydraulic brake line (7) from master cylinder by removing bolt (5) and washers (6). Discard washers (6). 3. Remove master cylinder screws (4), cover (2) and gasket (3). 4. Remove retaining ring (8), pivot pin (9), brake lever (10) and reaction pin (22). 5. Remove master cylinder from handlebar by removing screws (13) and clamp (14). 6. Pullout push rod (21), dust boot (20), piston and O·rlng (18 and 19), cup (17), stop (16) and spring (15). 7. Remove sighl glass (11) and grommet (12).
denatured alcohol or brake fluid. DO NOT use minerai base cleaning solvents such as gasoline or paint thinner. Use of minerai base solvents will cause deterioration of rubber parts that continues after assembly and can result In component failure. 1. Inspect cylinder walls for scratches and grooves. 2. Make sure vent holes in master cylinder are open. 3. Inspect gasket (3) and replace if required.
Assembly and Installation 1979·1981 MODELS (Figure 2·33) 1. Dip all internal parts in D.O.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID. 2. install pislon return spring (19), spring cup (18), piston cup (17), new O·ring (16) and piston (15). 3. Using RETAINING RING PLIERS , Pari HD·96215·49, install retaining ring (14).
No.
4. Assemble washers (12), spring (11), dust wiper (13) and plunger (10). 5. Coal pin (9) with Loctite ANTI·SEIZE and install pin (9) inlo brake lever (8). Insert brake lever assembly in· 10 master cylinder and align hole In pin (9) with plunger. Insert pin (7) through lever assembly and Ihe master cylinder. Secure pin (7) with retaining ring (6). 6. Reconnect stop lamp wires and assemble handlebar switch assembly. 7. Connect hydraulic hose (20) to master cylinder.
WARNING Before adding hydraulic fluid, check to see that relief port In master cylinder is uncovered when brake lever Is released and that there is no free play in lever. 8. Fill master cylinder with D.O .T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID. Bleed brake system, using procedure outlined in BLEEDING HYDRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM. 9. Install gasket (3), cover (2) and screws (4). Tighten to 10-15 in·lbs torque.
10. Test ride motorcycle. If brakes feel spongy repeat bleeding procedure. 1982 MODEL (Figure 2·34) 1. Dip all internal parts in D.O.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID.
2. Install grommet (12), coated wilh D.O.T. 5 HYDRAUL·
Cleaning, Inspection and Repair CAUTION Always clean brake system components by washing in
IC BRAKE FLUID, and sight glass (11). 3. Inslall spring (15), stop (16), cup (17), back up disc (18), piston and O·ring (19 and 20), dust boot (21) and push rod and switch (22). 2·27
A,211
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.
Master cylinder Master cylinder cover Gasket Screws (2) Bolt Washers (2) Hydraulic line Retaining ring Pivot pin Brake lever Sight glass Grommet Screws (2) Clamp Spring Stop Cup Back up disc Piston
20.0·ring 21. Oust boot 22. Push rod and switch 23. Reaction pin 24. Brakehose 13 25. Lockwasher 26. Lockwasher 27. Bolt 28. Brake hose
o o 28
o
Figure 2·34. Front Hydraulic Master Cylinder -
4. See Figure 2·35. Lightly coat reaction pin (4) with Loclite ANTI·SEIZE and insert into large hole in brake lever (5). Assemble brake lever (5) to master cylinder assembly (2) using pivot pin (1) and retain· ing ring (6). Make sure push rOd (3) fits into hole in reacllon pin. (4). Check front brake for proper oper· atlon. CAUTION See Figure 2·36. Push rod (1) must be inserted into hole in reaction pin (2). There must not be any binding of brake lever when depressed. If brake lever does bind, push rod switch activator Is hitting the inside master cylinder casting wall.
1982
5. Install master cylinder to handlebar by installing clamp (14, Figure 2·34) and screws (13). Tighten screws to 70-80 in·lbs torque. 6. Install new washers (6), bolt (5) and hydraulic brake line (7) Into master cylinder. Tighten bolt to 30-35 ft· Ibs torque.
CAUTION Make sure washers (6), bolt (5), hydraulic brake line (1) and master cylinder bore (1) are free of hydraulic fluid, dirt and metal chips before assembly. to avoid leakage.
NOTE
If master cylinder Is mounted on the handlebar, assembly of the brake lever is simplified by using a piece of strIng or wire to hold push rod stationary while aligning react/on pin. 2·28
7.
Fill the master cylinder with D.O.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID. Bleed brake system using pro· cedure outlined In BLEEDING HYDRAULIC SYSTEM .
AU7
INCORRECT
2-----;V;
3--f'--L:: ~
@--6
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Pivot pin M.. ter cylinder assembly Puahrod Reaction pin Brake lever Ret.lnlng ring
1. Push rod 2. Reaction pin Figure 2·36. Handlever
Figure 2·35. Front Brake Handlever WARNING
4.
Before adding hydraulic fluid check to see that relief port In masler cylinder Is uncovered, when brake lever Is released and that there Is no free play In the lever. 8.
Install gasket (3), cover (2) and screws (4). Tighten screws 10·15 In·lbs torque.
9.
Test ride motorcycle. If brakes feel spongy, repeat bleeding procedure. NOTE
The master cylinder assembly is equipped with. sight to visually check fluid level without removIng cover. When full, the sight glass will be dark. When fluid level drops. glass will lighten.
gl.ss
See Figure 2·35. Lightly coat reaction pin (4) with Loct;te ANTI·SEIZE and insert into large hole in brake lever (5). Assemble brake lever (5) to master cylinder assembly (2) using pivot pin (1) and retain· ing ring (6). Make sure push rod (3) lits into hole in reaction pin (4). Check front brake for proper opera· tion. CAUTION
See Figure 2·36. Push rod (1) must be inserted into hole In reaction pin (2). There must not be any binding of brake lever when depressed . If brake lever does bind, push rod switch activator Is hitting the Inside master cylinder casting wall. NOTE If master cylinder Is mounted on handlebar. assembly of
1983·1985 MODELS (Figures 2·37 and 2·38) 1.
Dip all internal parts in D.O.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID.
2.
Install grommet (12), coated with D.D.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID, and sight glass (11).
3.
Install spring (15), stop (16), cup (17), piston and D·ring (18 and 19), dust boot (20) and push rod and switch (21).
the brake fever Is simp/med by using a piece of string or wire to hold push roo stationary while aligning reacl/on pin. 5.
Install master cylinder to handlebar by Installing clamp (14, Figures 2·37 and 2·38) and screws (13). Tighten screws to 70-80 in·lbs torque.
6.
Install new washers (6), bolt (5) and hydraulic brake line (7) into master cylinder. Tighten bolt to 30-35 ft· Ibs torque. 2·29
A216
1. Master cylinder 2. Master cylinder cover 3. Gasket 4. Screws 5. Bolt 6. Washers (2) 7. Hydraulic line 8. Retaining ring 9. Pivot pin 10. Brake lever 11. Sight glass 12. Grommet 13. Screws (2) 14. Clamp 15. Spring 16. Stop 17. Cup 18. Back up disc 19. Piston
20.0·ring 21. Dust boot 22. Push rod and switch 23. Reaction pin 24. Brake hose 25. Lockwasher 26. Bolt
13
o
13
)
/' /'
'®" if'1154
0
o Figure 2·37. Front Hydraulic Master Cylinder -
1983
CAUTION
8.
Install gasket (3). cover (2) and screws (4). Tighten screws 10·15 in-Ibs torque.
Make sure washers (6), bolt (5), hydraulic brake line (7) and master cylinder bore (1) are free of hydraulic fluid, dirt and metal chips before assembly to avoid leakage.
9.
Test ride motorcycle. If brakes feel spongy, repeat bleeding procedure.
WARNING
Before adding hydraulic fluid, check to see that relief port in master cylinder Is uncovered when brake lever is released. 7.
Fill the master cylinder with O.O.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID. Bleed brake system using procedure outlined in BLEEDING HYDRAULIC SYSTEM. 2·30
NOTE
The master cylinder assembly is equipped with a sight glass to visually check fluid level without removing cover. When full, the sight glass will be dark. When fluid level drops, glass will lighten.
A216
1. Master cylinder 2. Master cylinder cover 3. Gesket 4. Screws 5. Bolt 6. Washers (2) 7. HydrauliC line 8. RetalnlnQ ring 9. Pivot ring 10. Brake lever 11. S~ht glass 12. Grommet 13. Screws (2)
14. Clamp 15. Spring 16. Stop 17. Cup 18. Piston 19. O·rlng 20. Dust boot 21. Push rod and switch 22. Reaction pin 23. Brake hose 24. Lockwasher 25. Bolt
'it'14
II§' 15
Figure 2·38. Front Hydraulic Master Cylinder -
REAR BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER
3. Remove two bolts and lockwasher (12) securing master cylinder to sprocket 4.
Removal and Disassembly 1979 MODELS (Figure 2·39)
1.
Disconnect brake line (9) at master cylinder (8).
2.
Remove retaining ring (10), clevis pin (11) and push rod (2) from master cylinder (8).
1984
cover.
Remove cover screws (6), cover (7) and gasket (5) and dra in I luid from cylinder (8). NOTE
The master cylinder should only be disassembled if problems are being experienced. When disassembling master cylinder aI/ seals should be discarded and 8 complete rebuild kit Instal/ed during assembly. 2·31
5.
Remove rubber boot (13), retaining ring (14), piston assembly (15), wafer (17), piston cup (18), spring seat (19) and spring (20). Remove O-ring (16) from piston (15).
1980·1981 MODElS (Figure 2·40) 1. Disconnect brake line (9) at master cylinder (3).
2.
Make sure vent ho les in the master cylinder are open.
3.
Inspect gasket (5) and replace if required.
Assembly and Installation 1979 MODElS (Figure 2·39)
2. Remove two bolts (1) and lockwashers (2) that secure master cylinder to sprocket cover. Pull master cylinder free of push rod (16) and remove cupped washers (14), spring (15) and boot (13).
1.
Dip all internal components in D.O.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID before assembly.
2.
Push spring seat (19) into spring (20) and slide into cylinder bore.
3. Remove master cylinder cover screws and cover (4) and gasket (5). Drain fluid from cylinder (3).
3.
Slide piston cup (18) into bore, over spring seat (19), place wafer (17) against piston cup (18).
4.
Carefully install new O-ring (16) over piston (15).
5.
Push piston assembly into cylinder bore and secure with retaining ring (14). Use INTERNAL LOCKRING PLIERS, Part No. HD·96215-49, to in· stall retaining ring (14).
6.
Install boot (13) over master cylinder assembly.
7.
Carefully slide push rod (2) through boot assembly, to piston assembly . Align master cylinder assem· bly with outer sprocket cover mounting holes and secure with bolts and lockwashers (12). Tighten to 155·190 in·lbs torque.
8.
Connect brake line (9) to cylinder (8).
9.
Fill the master cylinder with D.O.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID. Bleed brake system using procedure outlined in BLEEDING HYDRAULIC SYSTEM .
NOTE
The master cylinder should only be disassembled if problems are being experienced. When disassembling master cylinder a/l seals should be discarded and a complete rebuild kit installed during assembly.
4. Remove retaining ring (12), piston (10), wafer (25), piston cup (8), spring seat (7) and spring (6). Remove O-ring (11) from piston (10).
1982-1985 MODElS (Figure 2-41) 1. Disconnect brake line (9) at master cylinder (3). 2. Remove two bolts (1) and lockwashers (2) securing master cylinder to sprocket cover. Pull master cylinder free of push rod (16), and remove cupped washer (14), spring (15) and boot (13).
3. Remove master cylinder cover screws and cover (4) and gasket (5). Drain fluid from cylinder (3). NOTE
The master cylinder should only be disassembled if problems are being experienced. When disassembling master cylinder all seals should be discarded and a complete rebuild kit installed.
4. Remove retaining ring (12), piston (10), piston cup (8), spring seat (7) and spring (6) . Remove seal (II) from piston (10).
Cleaning, Inspection and Repair
WARNING Always lest motorcycle braking at low speeds after completing repairs or bleeding procedure. We recommend all brake repairs be performed by a HarleyDavidson dealer or other qualified mechanic. 1980·1981 MODElS (Figure 2·40) 1. Dip all internal components in D.O.T. 5 hydraulic brake fluid before assembly.
2. Push spring seat (7) into spring (6) and slide into cylinder bore.
CAUTION Always clean brake system components by washing in denatured alcohol or brake fluid. DO NOT use mineral base cleaning solvents such as gasoline or paint thinner. Use of mineral base solvents causes deteriora· tion of rubber parts that continues after assembly, and can result in component failure. 1. Inspect cylinder walls for scratches and grooves. 2·32
3. Slide piston cup (8) into bore and over spring seat (7). Place wafer (25) against piston cup (8). 4. Carefully install O-ring (11) over piston (10).
5. Push piston assembly into cylinder bore and secure with retaining ring (12). Use INTERNAL LOCKR1NG PLIERS, Part No. HD-96215-49, to install retaining ring (12).
42
r Inl 7路5116
~ (7.3 in.)
c
I
1. Brake pedal 2. Push rod
3. Jamnul 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12.
Pedal stop bolt Gasket Cover screw (2) Master cylinder cover Master cylinder Brake line Retaining ring Clevis pin Bolt and lockwasher (2)
13. Rubber boot 14. Retaining ring 15. Piston
16. a路ring 17. Wafer 18. Piston cup 19. Spring seat
20. Spring 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30.
Acorn nut Lockwasher Washer Outer pivot arm Outer sprocket cover Return spring Inner sprocket cover Retaining ring Clevis pin Acorn nut
31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38.
39. 40. 41. 42. 43. 44. 45.
Lockwasher Inner pivot arm Pivot shaft Retaining ring Clevis pin Brake rod Clevis Spring clip Jamnut Brake pedal shaft Clamp screw Brake fee Brake hose Stoplight switch Bushing
Figure 2路39. Rear Brake Master Cylinder and Rear Brake Linkage -
1979
2路33
6. Push cupped washers (14) and spring (15) into boot (13). Assemble to master cylinder assembly, boot drain hole down.
9. Fill the master cylinder with D.O.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID. Bleed brake system using procedure outlined in BLEEDING HYDRAULIC SYSTEM.
7. Carefully slide push rod (16) through boot assembly to piston assembly. Align master cylinder assembly with cover mounting holes and secure with bolts (1) and lockwashers (2). Tighten bolts to 155·190 in-Ibs torque.
WARNING Always test motorcycle braking al tow speeds after completing repairs or bleeding procedure. We recom· mend all brake repairs be performed by a HarleyDavidson dealer or other qualified mechanic.
8. Connect brake line (9) to cylinder (3).
O~
'4
~ ~ 4
.,;;.-- .
~
,~~/
~®~ 11921~
.
,.
~~;7
r
_ ~
I
15
I
22
16 --
_-- "
-
---1
I ~'\\)')
5_~ i / / / - 2\ ~'l~~~
I __ ~~ ,
\
\;J
12
" 6 a",C)Ilff\-" ~ \ \ 10 '\ c ,-" 7 •
' - ..
"
... -.•
13
\
~ ' \!~ ..
9
1
"2, Bolt Lockwasher 3, Master cylinder 4, Cover and screws 5, Gasket Spring 7, Spring seat 8. Piston cup
.,
9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16.
Brake line Piston O-ring Retaining ring Boot Cupped washer (2) Spring Push rod
17, Locknut
18, 19, 2., 21, 22. 23. 24. 25.
Rod end PI" Retaining ring Retaining ring Brake pedal Adjusting screw Locknut Wafer
Figure 2·40. Rear Brake Master Cylinder and Rear Brake Linkage 2-34
1980·1981
1982·1985 MODELS (Figure 2·41) 1. Dip all Internal components In D.O.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID before assembly.
2. Push spring seat (7) into spring (6) and slide Into cylinder bore.
3. Slide piston cup (8) into bore and over spring seat (7).
4. Carefully install seat (11) over piston (10).
1. Remove rlghllootrest assembly. 2. Remove retaining ring (10), clevis pin (11) and push rod (2). Remove bolts and lockwashers (12). Lilt master cylinder up out of the way without disconnecting the brake tine.
3. Remove acorn nut (21), lockwasher (22) and washer (23). Pull off pivot arm (24).
4. Remove sprocket cover mounting nuts and screws, remove outer sprocket cover (25).
5. Push piston assembly into cylinder bore and secure with retaining ring (12). Use INTERNAL LOCKRING PLI ERS, Part No. HD-96215·49, to install retaining ring (12).
6. Push cupped washer (14) and spring (15) into boot (13). Assembly to master cylinder assembly, boot drain hole down.
7. Carefully slide push rod (16) through boot assembly
to piston assembly. Align master cylinder assembly wit h cover mounting holes and secure with bolts (1) and lockwashers (2). Tighten bolts to 155-190 In·lbs torque.
NOTE
It may be necessary to loosen the right side exhaust system to remove sprocket cover.
5. Unhook return spring (26) from stud on inner sprocket cover (27). Remove Inner sprocket cover (27).
Remaining parts need not be disassembled unless they are worn or damaged.
8. Connect brake line (9) to cylinder (3).
9. Fi ll the master cylinder with D.O.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID. Bleed brake system using procedure outli ned In BLEE DING HYD RAU LI C SYSTEM.
1980·1985 MODELS (Figures 2·40 and 2-41)
1. Remove rear cylinder exhaust pipe.
2. Remove screw and clamp securing the rear brake line to the sprocket cover. WARNING Always test motorcycle braking at low speeds after completing repa irs or bleeding procedure. We ,acom· mend all brake rapairs be performed by a HarleyDavi dson dealer or other qualified machanic.
3. Remove footrest assembly.
BRAKE LINKAGE AND SPROCKET COVER
5. Remove retaining ring (21) and brake pedal (22).
Removal 1979 MODELS (Figure 2·39)
4. Remove master cylinder mounting bolts (1) and lockwashers (2), pull master cylinder (3) free of push rod (16).
6. Remove the locknut attaching the adjusting screw bracket (Integral part of exhaust system), then remove the cover screws and free the sprocket cover. 2·35
_3 1 24
.~ 0'
----- .'
-----20.-1
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Bolt (2) Lockwasher (2) Master Cylinder Cover and screws Gasket
6. Spring 7. Spring seat 8. Piston cup
9. Brake line 10. Piston assembly
11 . Seal 12. 13. 14. 15. 16.
Retaining ring Boot Cupped washer Spring Push rod
1979 MODELS (Figure 2·39)
1. Carefully measure the brake rod assembly (36), from center line to center line of clevis pin holes, length must be 7·5/16 in. Loosen jam nut (39) and adjust clevis (37) as required to attain correct length.
2·36
.-----
17. Locknut
18. Rod end 19. Pin 20. Cotter pin 21. 22. 23. 24.
Retaining ring Brake pedal Adjusting screw Locknut
Figure 2.. 1. Rear Brake Master Cylinder and Rear Brake linkage -
Installation
.----
1982 and Later
Retighten jamnut to 90·110 in-Ibs torque. 2. Install inner sprocket cover (27) and hook return spring onlo stud.
3. Carefully Install outer sprocket cover (25), aligning pivot shaft (33) to pass through cover hole. Install sprocket cover mounting screws and nuts. Tighten screw to 90·110 In-Ibs torque.
4. Install outer pivot arm (24), in a vertical position and secure with flat washer (23), lockwasher (22) and acorn nut (21). Tighten nut to 155·190 in·lbs torque.
5. Position master cylinder assembly (5) over mounting holes in sprocket cover (25). Secure with bolts and lockwashers (12). Tighten bolts to 155·190 in·lbs torque.
6. Adjust brake pedal free play. Refer to BRAKE PEDAL ADJUSTMENT.
2. Depress brake pedal (1) slightly until reSistance, as the push rod (2) contacts piston (15), is encountered. Measure the distance the outer pivot arm (24) has traveled. Turn the pedal stop bolt (4) in or out of the bracket until 1/16 in. pivot arm travel is obtained.
3. Secure the pedal stop bolt with the jamnut. Tighten the jamnut to 155-190 in·lbs torque.
1980 and Later Models (Figure 2·40 and 2·41)
1980·1985 MODELS (Figures 2·40 and 2·41) 1. Hold sprocket cover in place and install the cover mounting screws. Tighten the screws to 90-110 in· Ibs torque. 2. Install the adjusting screw bracket (integral part of the exhaust system), and secure with a new locknut. Tighten the nut to 50-50 ft·lbs torque.
Proper free play between push rod (16) and piston (10) is critical to ensure proper rear brake operation. Adjust as follows:
1. Loosen locknut (24) and adjust brake pedal (22) with adjusting screw (23) until desired pedal height is ob· tained. Tighten locknuts to 90-110 in-Ibs torque.
3. Install brake pedal assembly (22) and secure with a new retaining ring (21). 4. Position master cylinder assembly (3) over mounting holes in sprocket cover. Secure with screws (1) and lockwashers (2). Tighten screws to 155-190 in-Ibs torque. 5. Reinstall footrest assembly.
2. Depress brake pedal (22) slightly until reSistance, as the push rod (16) contacts piston (10), is encountered. Measure the gap between the brake pedal and the adjusting screw. Gap should be 1/16 in. Refer to Figure 2·42. Turn the push rod (16, Figure 2-40 and 2-41) in or out until the desired gap is ob· tained. Tighten push rod locknut (17) to 12-15 ft·lbs torque.
6. Install the brake line clamp and secure with screw. 7. Install the rear cylinder exhaust pipe. 8. Adjust brake pedal free play. Refer to BRAKE PEDAL ADJUSTMENT.
BRAKE PEDAL ADJUSTMENT 1979 Models (Figure 2·39) Proper free play between push rod (2) and piston (15) is critical to ensure proper rear brake operation. Adjust as follows:
1. Loosen locknut (3) securing pedal stop bolt (4).
Figure 2·42. Rear Brake Pedal Adjustment
2·37
DISC BRAKE CALIPERS FRONT 1979 to 1983 AND REAR 1979 to 1981 Removal and Disassembly (Figures 2·43 and 2·44) If the brake disc must be replaced, it wi ll be necessary to remove the wheel. See WHEEL section . To remove and disassemble one caliper assembly, use the following procedure. 1.
Remove the two mounting screws (1) and nuts (2) to release the caliper from the front fork or rear mounting bracket.
2.
Disconnect brake line fitting at the brake caliper. On 1979-1982 models be careful brake hose seal (3) is not misplaced.
3.
Remove bolt (4) and washer (5) to separate caliper halves (13) and (14).
4.
Remove seal (16), piston boot (7), piston (8), outer plate (9), brake pad set (10), and inner plate (11) from pins (12).
5.
Pull pins (12) from inner caliper (13) for complete disassembly.
Cleaning, Inspection and Repair (Figure 2·43 and 2·44) 1.
Clean all metal parts in a non-flammable cleaning solvent. Blow dry with compressed air. Rubber parts must be cleaned in denatured alcohol or brake fluid.
2
v',,S Wheel rotation
'4
1. Mounting Screws (2) 2. Nut (2) 3. Brake hose seat 4. Bolt 5. Washer 6. Seal 7. Piston boot 8. Piston
Figure 2-43. Front Brake Caliper (Left) 2·38
1979-1983
9_ Outer plate 10. Brake pad set 11. Inner plate 12. 13. 14. 15. 16_
Pins Inner caliper Outer caliper Bleed fitting Foam tape
Assembly (Figures 2·43 and 2·44)
WARNING Always clean brake system rubber parts by washing in denatured alcohol or brake fluid. DO NOT use mineral base cleaning solvents such as gasoline or paint thin· nero Use of mineral base solvents causes deterioration of rubber parts that continues after assembly and can result In component failure. 2.
Inspect ali components carefully for excessive wear or damage. Discard old seal (6) and replace with a new one.
3.
Inspect brake discs and replace if warped or badly scored. See WHEELS for disassembly procedure.
4.
Inspect brake pads for wear and damage. If pads are worn to 1/16 in. or less replace them as a set.
1.
Place the two pins (12) in the inner caliper (13). Slide the inner plate (11), brake pad set (10) and outer plate (9) onto the pins. Make sure the outer plate (9) is positioned between the caliper piston and the ouler brake pad so the direction of wheel rolalion is into the notch.
2.
Dip the seal (6), piston boot (7) and piston (8) into brake fluid before assembly. Use silicone base D.O.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID. Place the seal, boot and piston into Ihe ouler caliper (14).
NOTE
WARNING Piston assembly must be pressed a/l the way into the bore when new brake pads have been installed to assure proper clearance when calipers are reassembled to motorcycle.
The front brake and the rear brake pads must be reo placed only In sets for correct and safe brake operation. 5.
6.
When replacing brake pads, sand the surface of the pads with 60 or 80 grit emery cloth on a flat surface to break up the surface glaze. Also, use emery cloth to slightly round off the leading edge of the brake pads. After the brake pads are installed, they should be burnished by making several hard stops from approximately 55 mph. Replace any parts that appear worn or damaged.
3.
Posilion the outer caliper on the pins (12) and secure to inner caliper assembly with washer (5) and bolt (4). Tighten bolt to 60 to 65 fI-lbs torque.
4.
Install bleed fitting (15), if removed, and brake hose seat (3) inlo ouler caliper. Connect brake hose to caliper. Install wheels, if removed. See WHEELS.
IIfI)
Wheel rotoHon
9
14
, 16.........
>
6;;/
3-<> 1. Mounting screw (2) 2. Nuts (2)
3. Brake hose seat 4. Bolt 5. Washer
6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
Seal Boot Piston Outer plate Pad set
11. 12. 13. 14. 15.
/
Inner plate Pin (2) Inner caliper Outer caliper Bleeder fitting
Figure 2·44. Rear Brake Caliper -
16. Caliper mounting bracket 17. Rubber bumper
1979·1981
2·39
5.
Mount the caliper assembly to the fork or caliper mounting bracket with two mounting screws (1) and locknuts (2). Coat mounting screws (1) with Loctite ANTI·SEIZE. Torque screws to proper tight. ness. See SPECIFICATIONS. NOTE
New locknuts (2) should be used as this type of nut tends to lose its holding power when reused. If new locknuts are not available, Loctile LOCK N' SEAL should be used on threads.
6.
With master cylinder nearly level, fill reservoir with D.O.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID. Reservoir may be filled with bladder type pressurized equip· ment, see BLEEDING HYDRAULIC SYSTEM.
FRONT BRAKE CALIPER Removal and Disassembly 1984·1985 Models (Figure 2·46) 1.
Remove the upper mounting bolt (1) and the lower mounting pin (2) to release the caliper assembly from the vehicle.
2.
Disconnect the brake line at the caliper fitting.
3.
Move the caliper assembly to a clean bench area and remove the retainer screw (15), pad retainer (14) and inside pad (9).
4.
The outer pad (9), pad holder (7) and spring clip (8) are then removed as an assembly. Remove pad (9) from pad holder (7) by pushing the pad free of the pad hold down spring clip (8).
5.
Pry out the retaining wire (13) by inserting a small screwdriver into the notched groove at the bottom of the piston bore.
6.
Remove the piston dust boot (12). Then remove the piston by applying air pressure to the hydraulic brake line inlet.
NOTE Check for leaks. If leaks persist at hydraulic fittings, coat surfaces with Loctite hydraulic sealant. Use only Loctite hydraulic sealant to avoid contamination of hydraulic system. Bleed brake to purge system 01 air.
FRONT CALIPER FOAM TAPE INSTALLATION (Figure 2·45)
WARNING
1.
Remove the upper caliper mounting screw and rotate the caliper away from the slider. Clean the caliper body with Loe1ile CLEANING SOLVENT and allow to dry.
2.
Remove the paper backing from the foam tape and apply to the front of the outer caliper body as shown. Do not remove the protective Mylar from the foam. Apply a thin coating of Loctite ANTI· SEIZE to the mounting screw and reinstall the caliper using a new locknut. Tighten the screw to 80 to 90 in·lbs torque.
When removing the piston with air pressure, wear heavy gloves or hold piston with heavy towel to prevent per· sonal injury. Be sure piston is not dropped on hard sur· face. 7.
Pull threaded bushing (4) out of bushing bore, then remove pin boot (5) from groove in caliper.
8.
Seal (10) and the three O·rings (6) can be removed by prying them out of their respective grooves.
Cleaning, Inspection and Repair
",152
Upper mounting hole
1.
Clean all metal parts with alcohol. Do not use gasoline. Blow dry with compressed air.
Outercaliper
2.
Clean all rubber parts in denatured alcohol or brake fluid.
.56 In.
body .10in.
WARNING
Foam tape
Always clean brake system rubber parts by washing in denatured alcohol or brake fluid. DO NOT use minerai base cleaning solvents such as gasoline or paint thin· nero Use at mineral base solvents will cause deterlora· tion at the rubber parts, which will continue alter assembly, resulting In component tailure.
3. Figure 2·45. Foam Tape Installation 2·40
Inspect all components carefully for excessive wear or damage. Discard seal (10) and O·rings (6).
"'235
1. Upper mounting bolt 2. Lower mounting pin 3. Flat washer 4. Threaded bushing 5. Pin boot 6.0·ring 7. Pad holder 8. Spring clip 9. Pad set
10. Seal piston 11. Piston 12. Piston dust boot 13. Retaining wire 14. Pad retainer 15. Retainer screw 16. Caliper 17. Bleed fitting
Figure 2·46. Front Brake Caliper 4.
Inspect brake disc and replace if warped or badly scored. Minimum acceptable disc thickness is stamped on the disc.
5.
Inspect the brake pads for wear and damage. If pads are worn to 1/16 in. or less, replace them as a set.
lightly coat the cavity of pin boot (5) with Dow Cor· ning Moly 44 grease. Insert the flanged end of pin boot (5) into the internal groove of the threaded bushing bore. 2.
Push the piston dust boot (12), with the open side downward, over the top of the piston. Push downward on the boot unti l the inner lip seats in the groove at the top of Ihe piston .
3.
Coat the outside circumference of piston (11) with D.0.T. 5 HYDRAU LIC BRAKE FLUID and push the piston with dust boot into the piston bore. If necessary, press the piston in with a " C " c lamp.
WARNING Brake pads must be replaced only In sets for correct and safe brake operation. 6.
After the brake pads are i nstalled, they should be burnished by making several hard stops.
7.
Replace any parts that appear worn or damaged.
NOTE
Assembly After the parts have been inspected and any worn or damaged parts replaced , the caliper is reassembled as follows: 1.
Apply a coating of D.O.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID to Ihe exterior surfaces of seal (10). Inslall seal (10) and O·rings (6) in thei r respective grooves.
Piston must be pressed al/ the way into the bore when new brake pads have been installed to assure proper clearance when calipers are installed on vehicle. 4.
POsition the gap of the retainer wire at the lop of the caliper and compress the retainer wire (13) into the piston bore. Push the retainer wire firmly against the piston dust boot.
5.
lightly coat the bores of the caliper mounting lugs with Dow Corning Moly 44 grease.
2·41
6.
Push the threaded bushing into the pin boot and through the bushing bore in the mounting lug. Keep pushing until the free end of the pin boot seats in the grooved shoulder next to the hexagonal head of the threaded bushing .
7.
Lay the pad holder (7) down on a firm flat surface with the upper mounting bolt hole positioned at the upper right.
8.
Instatt the spring c li p (8) at the top of pad holder (7) as shown in Figure 2-47.
9.
Take pad (9, Figure 2-46), the pad that has the insulator backing, and place it on top of the spring clip with the lower end of the pad slightly entering the opening of the pad holder. With the pad centered within the pad holder and the insulated back facing downward, push down on the pad untit it is against the flat surface and is held firmly by spring tension from the spring clip.
10.
tapping retainer screw (15) through the hole in the center of pad retainer (14) and thread into the hole in the pad. Tighten screw (15) to 55·70 in-Ibs.
Installation Mount the caliper on the vehicle as follows: 1.
Coat t he outside diameter of the mounting pin (2) with Dow Corning Moly 44 grease.
2.
Position the caliper with the disc between the friction pads and the two mounting holes in the caliper aligned with the mounting lugs on the fork. See Figure 2-48.
3.
Place a flat washer on bolt (1, Figure 2·46). Insert the upper mounting bolt through the fork lug, and pad holder (7), then thread the bolt into threaded bushing (4).
4.
Insert the lower mounting pin (2) through the caliper, and the fork lug and then thread into the tapped hole at the lower end of pad holder (7). Tighten the pin to 25-30 ft-Ibs torque.
5.
Tighten upper mounting bolt (1) to 25·30 f1-lbs torque.
6.
If the bleeder screw was removed, it should be in· stalled and tightened to 32-40 in-Ibs torque .
7.
Using new banjo washers (6), connect the brake line (23) to the caliper. Tighten banjo bolt to 30-35 ft-Ibs torque.
Insert the outer pad (9), pad holder (7) and spring clip (8) assembly into place with the backside of the pad against the face of the piston . NOTE
The spring clip loop and friction material must always face away from the piston. If it is wrong, the pad must be removed, the pad holder reversed and the parts reassembled. 11.
Place the inner pad (9) (Without insulator) in the recessed seat machined into the caliper.
12.
Position the pad retainer (14) within the counter· bore at the inside end of the caliper. Insert self·
''''
Figure 2-47. Spring Clip Installation 2·42
Figure 2·48. Front Brake Caliper Mounting
8.
9. 10.
Actuate the master cylinder an d check for leaks.
reservo irwith . der nearly leve,J 1"11 I 10 Reservoir With master BRAKE equip. D.O.T. '. with btadde, SYSTEM. may be fllle DING HYDR
11.
men!. See BlEE
REAR BRAKE CALIPER 1982·1985 (Figure 2·49)
H~ri~~UllC
ty~~t,c~~~sU~ized
b sure there is a
bfr~I~~~~::~k~~~~~~~IU~ surface when
Actuate the small spurt 0 brake lever. actuating the
. II the master cy rnder I Relnsta cover.
Disassembly 1. Remove screws (2) and lift caliper body (5) off
1 . Cap
2. Screw (2) 3. Frame 4 Pad (2) s' Caliper body Upper p~n 7 lower pin S' Boot (2) . Pad spring Retaining wire 11. Boot 12. Piston 13 Seal .. Bleed valve 1 15.. Abutment shim
6:
1~:
Figure 2·49. Rear Brake Caliper -
1982·1985
2·43
bracket (3). Remove brake pads (4). NOTE
Cleaning, Inspection and Repair 1. Clean all metal parts in a non·flammable cleaning solvent and blow dry with compressed air.
Brake pads may now be replaced without further disas· sembly.
2. Remove upper and lower pins (6 and 7) and boots (8).
Remove pad spring (9) from caliper body.
NOTE
Do not remove the pistons from the caliper unless there are signs of hydraulic fluid leakage or if the piston is not operating properly. If the piston must be removed, pro· ceed to the following steps.
3. Remove retaining wire (10) and piston bOot (11). Remove piston (12) and seal (13). If piston cannot be
WARNING Always use a non·flammable solvent for cleaning metal parts. DO NOT use gasoline or other flammable substances. 2. Clean all rubber parts in denatured alcohol or brake fluid.
WARNING Always clean brake system rubber parts by washing in denatured alcohol or brake fluid. DO NOT use mineral base cleaning solvents such as gasoline or paint thin· nero Use of minerai base solvents will cause deteriora· tion of rubber parts, which will continue after assembly, resulting in component failure.
easily removed, use the fOllowing method: 3.
Inspect brake disc and replace If warped or badly scored.
4.
Inspect the brake pads for wear and damage. If pads are worn to 1/16 in. or less, replace them as a set.
a. Pump brake lever until piston reaches its lull level. b. Remove brake line (1). c. Place the caliper on a workbench with the pistons facing downward. Place a shop towel under the pis' tons and apply low air pressure to the inlet hole until piston is forced out of the caliper. II piston Is tight in bore, tap lightly around caliper while ap· plying air pressure.
WARNING Piston may develop considerable force from pressure bulld·up and care should be taken to keep hands out from under to prevent personal Injury.
WARNING Brake pads must be replaced only In sets for correct and safe brake operation. 5.
After the brake pads are installed, Ihey should be burnished by making several hard stops.
6.
Replace any parts that appear worn or damaged. Always replace seal (13) if piston is removed.
7.
Check the abutment shims in the caliper mounting bracket for damage. Replace missing or badly damaged shims as follows: a. Remove all the existing adhesive Irom the mounting bracket surface where the abutment shim is located . The surface should be scraped with a knife and if required, lightly sanded with fine emery cloth. b. Clean the surface seraped and sanded in Step 'a' above with denatured alcohol. c. Apply a silicone sealant to the bracket surface and install the abutment shim. To hold the shim in position, install the brake pads in the bracket. d. Allow the silicone sealant to dry.
Figure 2·50. Caliper Pin Alignment 2·44
e. Check thaI the brake pads slide freely in the bracket.
Assembly and Installation 1.
If piston was removed Instal l new seal (13) into caliper bore. Install piston (12) all the way into caliper bore and install boot (11) and retaining wire
1.
Slip a length of appropriate size plast ic tubing Over wheel cylinder bleeder valve with other end In a clean container.
2.
Turn handlebars so that bleeder valve is near ly ver· tical. Open bleeder valve by rotating counterclock wise about one-half turn.
3.
With master cylinder full of fluid at ali times, slowly depress brake pedal or lever once until fluid stops lIowing from tubing. Close the b leeder valve. Allow pedal or lever to return slowly t o release position.
4.
Repeat operation unlil brake system is free of air bubbles.
5.
Add f luid to master cylinder to bring to or ig inal level. Do not reuse fluid unless it is clear and free from sediment and bubbles.
(10).
2.
3.
4.
Place pad spring (9) into top of caliper with long tab extending above piston. Hook shorl lab op· posite piston above ridge on caliper casting to hold spring i n place. Instal l p in boots (8) on upper and lower pins (6 and 7) and coat pins and pin bores with silicone grease. Insert pins into pin bores (pin with nylon sleeve goes into top hole) making sure boots are properly seated on boss around holes. Turn pins so flats are parallel with opening In bracket as shown in Figure 2·50. Install pads (4, Figure 2·49) on bracket and place cal iper body (5) on bracket making sure pins (6 and 7) do not turn.
5.
Install screws (2) and tighten to 11-14 ft-Ibs torque. Pins (6 and 7) should sti l l be in same position as described in slep 3.
6.
Bleed brake system as described under BLEEDING HYDRAULIC BRAKE SYSTEM.
BRAKE DISCS
NOTE
Hydraulic brake fluid bladder type pressure equipment can be used to fill brake master cylinder through the bleeder fitting, prolllding master cylinder cover Is remOiled so that system cannot pressurize. Do not use pressure bleeding equIpment when the hydrauliC sys· tern is sealed with master cylinder cover and gasket in place.
STOPLIGHT FRONT BRAKE SWITCH
Removal And Installation The brake discs have a minimum thickness stamped on their sides. Replace any brake disc that is worn beyond this limit.
To replace stoplight switch in right handlebar assembly, remove cover screw securing switch halves. Disconnect wires and discard switch . Replace switch as a unit. Reassemble switch and hous ing and test operation of brake li ght.
BLEEDING HYDRAULIC SYSTEM Alter servicing hydraulic brake system where any hydrau lic line or cyl inder is opened, it is necessary to bleed the system to expel the air. WARNING Brake fluid can cause irritation of eyes and skin and may be harmful If swallowed. If fluid is swallowed, in· duce vomiting by administering two tablespoons of salt In a glass of warm water. Call a doctor_ In case of can· tact with skin or eyes, flush with plenty of water_ Get medical attention for eyes _ KEEP BRAKE FlUID OUT OF THE REACH OF CHILDREN .
STOPLIGHT REAR BRAKE SWITCH The rear stoplight switch is screwed into the rear hydraulic brake filling. The stoplight switch is an open type switch which closes with hydraulic pressure. The switch pa rts are not serviceable and switch must be replaced as a unit. After switch is replaced, check fluid level in master cylinder and operat ion of rear brake. It may be necessary to bleed rear brake_
2·45
FRONT FORKS GENERAL The front fork is made up of two telescoping tubes working against springs, with an oil 'illed damping mechanism to control the action.
3. On all models except XR·l000, remove two screws (1) so cover (2) can be slid up out of the way, exposing the fork stem and bracket (12). The XR-l000 does not have a cover. 4. Loosen the fork tube pinch bolls (3), then loosen screw (9) in the upper fork bracket (5).
CHANGING THE FORK OIL 1. Remove the lork lube cap from one fork side. 2. Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the fork and drain the oil by compressing the front suspen-
sion.
5. Unscrew the fork tube cap (6) from Ihe fork tube, Ihen remove fork side (7) completely by sliding down and out of both upper and lower fork brackets. Drain oil from fork side.
Disassembly 1983 and Earlier Models (Except XR-l000) (Figure 2·52) 1.
Remove O-ring (3) from inner groove in tube cap (1) and slide off washer (4). Pull spring (5) out of fork tube (2).
2.
Using an allen wrench, remove screw (6) along wilh washer (7) from bottom end of fork slider (8). This will free shock absorber tube (9) so that It can be removed from fork tube (2). Remove both fiber wear rings (10) from slots in shock absorber tube.
4. On 1983 and earlier models, fi ll the fork side with 5 oz. (wet) or 6 oz. (dry) TYPE E FORK OIl.
3.
On 1984 and 1985 (including XA·l000) models, !llIthe fork side with 5.4 oz. (wet) or 6.4 oz. (dry) of TYPE E FORK OIl.
Separate fork tube (2) and fork slider (8) by pulling the two apart. Slip fork boot (II) off end of fork slider (8).
4.
Remove damper tube sleeve (12) from inside fork slider (8) by carefully pulling out past seal (14). Remove seal (14) only If it is to be replaced. Remove lock ring (13) and they pry out seal (14), discarding the damaged seal.
NOTE If the fork oil Is emulsified, aerated or light brown In co/or, then It has been contaminated by water and the oil seals in the fork must be replaced. See steps 1 and 2 of the DI$A$SEMBL Y procedure.
3. Install the drain plug.
NOTE When the fork has been disassembled, cleaned and reassembled It Is considered a DRY fork and requires more oil than a WET fork. The difference In the amount of all required between a WET and a DRY fork is due to oil cling.
5. Install the fork tube cap.
1984 and 1985 Models (Including XR·l000) (Figure 2·53) 1.
Remove O-ring (5) from the groove in the tube cap and slide off washer (4). Pull spring (10) out of fork tube (1).
2.
Remove dust seal (6) then compress internal circle clip (7) and remove the clip from the internal groove at the top of slider (2).
3.
Using an allen wrench, remove socket head bolt (14) along with washer (15) from the bottom end of fork slider (2). This will free shock absorber tube (11) and slider (1) so that they can be removed from fork tube (2).
6. Repeat steps 1·5 for the other fork side.
FORK SIDES Removal (Figure 2·51) 1. Remove front wheel and brake assembly as described under WHEElS in this section, then remove front fender.
NOTE
2. Remove bracket attaching head lamp to the upper fork bracket and allow head lamp to hang loose by wiring harness.
Since there Is //tte resistance to rotation when removing socket bolt (1 4), the job Is best done with an air Impact wrench.
2·47
12
6~
,,,
:ÂŁ0'8 9
~ '"
0,
'" ,
,
' . ¡0
5
J,.17 4
2
,,, @f'O
, 'I I I
~" @ - - 15 ,,
[1-..
7 1 1 1
I
,I
1
I
@--'6
1
l,
,,
@-13
,,
~ 14
,
,
I
'~
1. Screw (2)
2. Cover 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
Pinch bolt (2) Screw (2) Upper bracket Fork tube cap (2) For1o; side (2) Fork stem nut Pinch screw
10. 11. 12. 13.
14. 15. 16. 17. 18.
Upper bearing shield Bearing cone Fork stem and bracket Bearing cone lower dust shield Upper bearing race Lower bearing race Screw Insert (2) Brake caliper bushings (4)
Figure 2-51. Front Fork Assembly
2-48
.,,,
11-§
~, I I
1 3 - -0
,-8
'.-© 1 2-~
7-0
:~
II-@
;6/
"
"
"1
I I I I I I I I
"
, I
_
11
i<OJ-' -'
11_11
0 --' ~
I I
2
15 /";s
1 2<8'~"'""
I I I
r,
H ]
_
d t;
I
~
I I I I
~!l-10
~
I
I
®
/"I
g----14 I I
I 1. Tube cap 2. Fork tube 3. 0·rlng 4. Was her 5. Spring
9. Shock absorber tube 10. Wear rings
11 . Boot 12. Damper tube sleeve
6. Screw
13. lock ring 14. Seal
7. Washer 8. Fork slider
15. Drain plug 16. Washer
Fig ure 2·52. Front Fork Shock Absorber (1979-1983) 4.
The upper bushing (16) is a slight interference lit in slider (2). The upper bushing (16) together with spacer seal (9) and oil seal (8) are removed by lightly hitting the upper bushing w ith the lower bushing as the fork lube is pulled free of the slider (2) in a quick continuous stroke. Continue this slide hammer type action until the components are freed.
5.
Remove shock absorber tube (11) by pushing the tube and spring assembly free of fork tube (1) by inserting a small diameter rod through the opening in the bottom of tube (1).
6.
Remove sleeve (13) from the lower end of shock abo sorber tube (It) and slide off rebound spring (ta).
7.
Piston rings ('2) can now be removed from the grooves at the top end of shock absorber tube (' 1). Lower bushing (17) should not be removed unless It is to be replaced.
Cleaning, Inspection and Repair 1. Thoroughly clean and inspect each pari. If Inspec-
1 I I I
17--9
,,
I
"
I
" I3~O -'--."
1_Tube 2. Slider 3. Cap bolt 4. Washer 5. 0 ·rlng 6. Dust seal 7. Internal circle clip 8. 0 11 seal 9. Spacer seal 10. Spri ng
11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.
Shock absorber tube Piston ri ng Oil lock Socket bolt Washer Bushi ng upper Bushi ng lower Rebound spring Bolt drai n 20_ Washer
Figure 2-53. Front Fork Shock Absorber (1 984·1985) lion shows Ihal any parts are bent, broken or damaged, those parts should be either repaired or re placed. 2. Inspect all seals for wear. If seals were removed, new seals must be installed. 3. Inspect both wear rings on damper tube and replace If worn excessively or damaged. 4. Check boot or dust seal where it rubs on fork tube. The tube should show a bright, shining surface, free of scoring or abrasions. The boot or seal should present a good continuOUS seal and not show excessive wear. 5. Replace shock absorber spring If broken.
2·49
6.
Inspect small hole in groove in lower end 01 fork tube and see that it is not obstructed.
7.
Make sure tube cap a-ring is in good condition, without irregularities, and that it provides proper sealing.
8.
Check drain bolt washer and shock absorber washer to see that they provide a good seal when used with their respective bolts to prevent oil leakage.
9.
Replace bent or damaged fork tube.
Assembly 1983 AND EARLIER XL MODELS (Figure 2·52) 1.
2.
Carefully slide damper tube sleeve (12) into fork slider (8).
4.
Assemble fork tube (1) and shock absorber tube (11) into slider (2). Hold the assembly in place by exerting pressure on the spring and install socket bolt (14) with washer (15).
5.
Place upper bushing (16), seal spacer (9) and seal (8) (in that order) over fork tube (1). Be sure that the concave or dished surface of the seal spacer is downward and lettered side of the seal is facing upward . Place FORK SEAL AND BUSHING TOOL, Part No. HD·34190 over fork tube. Push the bushing (16), spacer (9) and seat (8) into place by lightly ramming the components with the installa· tion tool.
Installation (Figure 2·51) 1.
Slide the fork sides (7) through the lower and upper brackets (12) and (5). Tighten the fork pinch bolt (3) to 30·35 ft-Ibs. Tighten pinch screw (9) to 21-27 ft. Ibs torque.
2.
Pour 6 oz. (1983 and earlier XL models) or 6.4 oz. (XR·l000 and 1984-1985 XL models) of HarleyDavidson TYPE E FORK OIL into each fork side and replace tube caps (6).
3.
Install the head lamp bracket on the upper fork bracket.
4.
Install the front fender, then install the front wheel and brake assembly. See WHEELS in this section.
If removed, install a new seal (12) and retaining ring (13).
3.
Slide the fork tube (2) into slider (8), then install boot (11) on the slider.
4.
If removed, install fiber wear rings on shock abo sorber tube (9) and insert the tube into tube (2). Secure shock absorber tube with socket head screw (6) and washer (7).
5.
Install spring (10) in tube (1). Install washer (4) and o·ring (3) on tube cap (1) and assemble tube cap to tube (1).
FORK STEM
6.
Removal 1.
Remove the fork side as described in FORK SIDES REMOVAl.
2.
Remove the fork stem nut (8, Figure 2-51) and loosen the fork upper bracket pinch bolt (9). Lift the handlebar assembly from the steering head with fork upper bracket (5) attached. Carefully position the assembly away from the work area, being careful not to bend control wires more than necessary.
Fill the fork side with 6 oz. of TYPE E FORK OIl.
XR·l000 AND 1984·1985 XL MODELS (Figure 2·53) 1.
If removed, install new lower bushing (17), expand· ing the bushing only enough to fit over tube (1). Slide the bushing into its groove.
NOTE
2.
Place rebound spring (18) on shock absorber tube (11). Insert shock absorber tube (11) into fork tube (1).
3.
2·50
Insert spring (10) into fork tube (1), taper side toward piston, and push the shock absorber tube through the opening at the bottom end of the fork tube.
It is not necessary to disconnect clutch and brake hand-
levers, wiring harnesses or control cables from handlebar unless the handlebar assembly is to be removed 'rom the motorcycle. 3.
Remove the upper bearing shield (10) and upper bearing cone (11). Drop fork stem and bracket assembly (12) and remove bearing cone (13) and lower dust shield (14).
NOTE
On 1979·1981 models the steering head bearing races are press lit in cupS which in turn are press fit in the Ira me. On 1982 and later models the bearing races are press fit in the Irame.
4.
If replacement of bearing races is necessary, drive cup and race assemblies or races (15 and 16) from the frame with a drift.
Assembly 1.
II removed, press new bearing races (1982 and later) or bearing race and cup assemblies (15 and 16) (1979·1981) into the frame.
2.
Liberally coat the bearing cones (11 and 13) with grease. Work the grease into the rollers.
3.
Assemble the lower dust shield (14) and bearing cone (13) on the fork stem and bracket (12).
4.
Insert fork stem and bracket (12) through the steer· ing head and install the upper bracket bearing (11) and dust shield (10) on the slem .
5.
Install the upper bracket (5) including the handlebar assembly and loosely install fork stem nut (8).
6.
Install the fork sides {71 and secure with pinch bolts (3).
7.
Install the front fender and front wheel, including the front brake assembly.
8.
Tighten the fork stem nut (8) until the bearings have no free play. Make sure the fork stem turns freely, then t ighten the pinch screw (9).
Cleaning, Inspection and Repair 1.
2.
3.
Clean the bearing shields (10 and 14), bearing cones (11 and 13), fork stem and bracket (12) and frame with solvent. Carefully Inspect bearing races and cones for pil. tlng, scoring, wear and other damage. Replace damaged bearing as a set. Do not replace an in· dividual cone or race. Check the fork stem and bracket (12) lor damage. Replace damaged fork stem.
2·51
REAR FORK DISASSEMBLY
1982 and Later (Figure 2·55)
1979·1981 (Figure 2·54)
NOTE
Remove the rear wheel as described under REAR WH EEL, REMOVAL. Free brake assembly from fork and remove from motorcycle. II is not necessary to disconnect brake lines or drain brake fluid. Disconnect lower rear shock absorber bolts from rear fork. Remove chain guard.
See Figure 2·54. Remove pivot bolt (1) from rear fork (2). Rear fork can now be pulled from frame (3) assembly. Remove screw and lockwasher (4), bearing lockwasher (5), right bearing locknut (6) and bearing outer spacer (7). Using a punch, turn ou l left bearing locknut (8) from fork hub and remove spacer (7). From Inside of fork, press or drive out bearings (9) and bearing spacers (10) by applying pressure against spacer. Press or drive out bearing shields (11) from fork inner side.
Mark all hardware, as it Is removed, so it may be returned to orlginal/oeat/on. 1. Remove rear wheel
as described under REAR
WHEEl, REMOVAl. 2. Remove rear brake caliper assembly as described under REAR BRAKE CALI PER.
3. Remove rear shock absorber bolts from rear fork. 4. Remove rear chain guard. Remove forward chain Quard on 1982 mOdels. 5. Carefully loosen pivot bolt (l), support rear fork and pull fork assembly from frame. CAUTION Carefully mark all bearing components as they are removed, so components may be returned to their original locations. Bearing components must not be In· termlxed.
NOTE Bearing race (8), or pivot bushing (4) should only be removed if replacement is required. The complete bear· Ing assembly must be replaced, as a unit, if replace· ment is required. Bearing components must not be In· termlxed.
3
\
1. Pivot bolt 2. Rear fork 3. Frame 4. Screw and lockwasher 5. Bearing lockwasher 6. Right bearing locknut 7. Outer spacer (2) 8. left bearing locknut 9. Bearing (2) 10. Inner spacer (2) 11. Shield (2)
Figure 2·54. Rear Fork -
1979·1981
1. Pivot bolt 2. Rear fork 3. Frame 4. Pivot bushing 5. Pivot plug 6. Dust shield (2) 7. Inner race (2) 8. Outer race (2) 9. lock ring 10. Bearing spacer Figure 2·55. Rear Fork - 1982 and Later 2·53
7. Carefully press bearing outer races (8) from fork. Remove lock ring (9). 8. Press pivot bushing (4) from fork assembly.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
8. Take scale reading and tighten locknut (6) sufficient amount to provide from one to two pounds drag on the bearing. For example, if rear end of fork weighs three and one·half pounds with bearings free, bear· ings should be adjusted tight enough to increase weight of fork to tour and one-half or five and onehalf pounds as fork is lifted to horizontal position. 9. Assemble screw and washer (4), and lockwasher (5).
1. Carefully inspect all bearing components for wear and lor corrosion. Replace complete bearing assembly if any component is damaged.
2. Clean all components in solvent and blow dry. 3. Dimensionally check rear fork to ensure it is properIyaligned.
ASSEMBLY
10. Install shock absorbers, brake assembly and rear wheel. 11. Install chain guard.
1982 and Later (Figure 2-55) 1. If necessary, install new lock ring (9) and press new outer races (8) into position.
1979-1981 (Figure 2-54)
NOTE
1. From outside of fork, press or drive bearing shield (11) into position, flush with inner fork side. From outside of fork insert bearing spacers (10), shoulder facing in. Apply a heavy coating of bearing grease to bearings (9).
RoJ/er bearing assemblies are shipped assembled as a unit, do not Intermix components. Mark all components so they may be correctly installed. 2. Coat bearing components with bearing grease and assemble.
NOTE
CAUTION
Repack the two rear fork pivot bearings with fresh grease at 10,000 mile intervals.
Bearing spacer (10) must be Installed between Inner races (7) or bearing failure can result.
2. With side of bearing outer race facing out, tap bearing into fork until flush with inner fork side. Insert bearing outer spacer (7), shoulder facing in.
3. Press dust shields (6), lip side in, over bearing inner races (7).
3. Assemble and lighten bearing locknut (6), and then back off one full turn.
4. Press new pivot bushing (4) into rear fork (2), if required. 5. Insert pivot plug (5) into pivot bushing (4), as shown.
4. Insert left spacer (7), shoulder facing in, and left bearing locknut (8). With a punch, tighten bearing locknut until snug. Slake lock in three places. 5. Position rear fork in place on motorcycle. 6. Coat pivot bolt (1) with grease. If rear fork pivot bolt does not have a reusable lock patch, apply four drops of Lootite 271, High Strength Threadlooker, to the pivot bolt threads. Insert pivot bolt in rear fork assembly and tighten to 50 ft-Ibs torque.
6. Align pivot plug (5) ears with slots in frame and slide rear fork assembly into posJtlon. 7. If rear fork pivot boll does not have a reusable lock patch, apply four drops at Loctite 271, High strength threadlooker, to the pivot bolt threads. Holding fork assembly in pOSition, (1). Tighten to 50 ft-Ibs torque.
~nstall
pivot bolt
8. Install chain guards. NOTE
9. Assemble shock absorbers to fork.
Before instalflng locknut (5), tighten bearings as described in fof/owing paragraph. 7. Weigh the extreme rear end of fork by attaching spr· ing scale and raising fork to horizontal position with centerline of frame.
2·54
10. Install rear brake caliper assembly, see REAR BRAKE CALIPER (1982 and Later). 11. Install rear wheel as described in REAR WHEEL, IN· STALLATION.
REAR SHOCK ABSORBER REMOVAL (Figure 2·56)
lat.
3~-'~;;e~,_~~8' ~~ Ea",
F31-'
1979
C~>,-
II
I
rer r
2
2. On 1979 to Early 1984 models, remove top and bottom mounting bolts (1) and nuts (2), and remove shock assembly.
1 3. On late 1984 to 1985 models, remove nut (10) and washer (11) from top mounting stud. Remove bottom nut (2) and bolt (1), and remove shock assembly.
I
7
1. Raise rear end of motorcycle with stand or suitable blocking underneath frame. If blocking is not available, remove one shock absorber at a time, the remaining one will hold the rear fork and frame in place.
I
6 I
DISASSEMBLY
I
(Figure 2·56)
I I I
9
I
e-----7 ___ J ~
I
1. 2. 3. 4.
Bolt 7. Spring seat (2) Nut (1979· Early 1964) 8. Cam Retaining ring 9. Cam stop 10. Nut (late 1984·1985) Cover 11. Washer 5. Spring (Late 1984·1985) 6. Shock absorber Figure 2·56. Rear Shock Absorber
ADJUSTING SPRING (Figure 2·56) The rear shock absorber springs can be adjusted for the weight the motorcycle is to carry. The average weight solo rider would use the extended spring position, A heavy solo rider might require the position with springs in slightly compressed spring position. To adjust the rear shock absorber springs, use SPAN· NEATOOL, Part No. HD·94820·75. Adjust both shock abo
sorber cams the same.
1. Place shock absorber in SHOCK ABSORBER TOOL, Part No. HD-97010·52A, with retainer (3) up. Compress spring (5) far enough to remove reta iner (3) and cover (4). 2. Release spring compression and remove shock abo sorber (6) from tool. Remove remaining items.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION Clean and inspect all parts for wear and damage. Especially check rubber components for signs of wear and stiffness. Exam ine shock assembly for signs of leakage. Unit should compress slightly easier than it ex· tends. If possible, compare with new shock absorber. Faulty shock absorber assemblies must be replaced.
ASSEMBLY Assembly of the rear shock absorber is the reverse of disassembly. When reassembling, be sure to position cam lobes (8) on cam stop (9) as shown. Apply a thin coat of grease to cam surface. Place assembly in tool and compress spring enough to insert split retainer halves. Slowly release spring compression.
2·55
HANDLEBAR CONTROLS AND INSTRUMENTS THROTTLE CONTROL General The throttle control must operate freely without binding. With the friction adjusting screw backed off, the throttle must return to the closed (idle) position.
Removall Disassembly 1979 TO 1980 (Figure 2·57) 1. Remove the two screws (1) and separate the upper clamp (2) from the lower clamp (3), 2. Unhook the ferrule (4) and cable (5) from the throttle grip (6) and clamp (3). Disconnect the other end of the cable from the carburetor. 3. Remove the friction spring (7), sel screw (8), spring (9) and adjusting screw (10) from the lower clamp (3).
1981 to 1985 (Figure 2-58) 1. Remove the two screws (1) and separate the upper clamp (2) from the lower clamp (3). 2. Unhook the ferrules (4) and cables (5) from the throttle grip (6) and clamp (3). Disconnect the other end of the cables from the carburetor. 3. Remove the friction spring (7), spring (8), retaining ring (13) and adjusting screw (9) from the lower clamp (3).
1. 2_ 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
\
Screw (2) Upper throttle clamp Lower throttle clamp Ferrule Control cable assembly Throttle Friction screw
8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13.
Set screw Spring Adjusting screw Handlebar Grip plug (2) Adjusting nut
Figure 2·57. Handlebar Throttle Control -
1979·1981
Cleaning, Inspection And Repair 1. Clean all parts in a non-flammable cleaning solvent and blow dry with compressed air. 2. Replace the cable assembly (5) if it is frayed, kinked or bent. 1979 TO 1980 MODELS ONLY: 3. Lubricate pivot points of lever. Use Loctite ANTISEIZE on pin and a teflon or silicone base lubricant on cable end.
2. Attach the cable assembly (5) to the lower clamp (3). Install the set screw (8), adjusting screw (10), spring (9) and friction spring in the lower clamp. Be sure the hole in the spring (7) engages the set screw. 3. Position the throttle (6) on the handlebar. Place the lower clamp (3) on the throttle. Position the ferrule (4) over the cable ball and seat it in the throttle notch. 4. Fasten the upper clamp (2) to the lower clamp (3) using the screws (1). Tighten the screws to 12-16 in·Jbs torque.
Assembly Iinsiallation 1979 TO 1980 (Figure 2-57) 1. Apply a light coating of graphite to the handlebar and inside surface of the clamps (2 and 3).
5. Route throttle cable down right side of motorcycle along underside of fuel tank to carburetor.
6. Fasten the cable to the carburetor. 2·57
1981 TO 1985 (Figure 2·58) 1. Apply a light coating of graphite to the handlebar and inside surface of the clamps (2 and 3).
grip travel lim it. To adjust for grip travel limit, turn throttle to open position and adjust set screw (8) with a 2mm (Allen) wrench. The throttle grip should be in fully open position as the carburetor lever reaches fully open position.
2. Attach the cable assemblies (5) to the lower clamp (3). The throttle cable has a 5116 x 18 in. threaded adjuster and should be assembled to the right side of the throttle grip. The Idle cable has a 114 x 20 in. threaded adjuster and should be assembled to the left side of the throttle grip. Install adjusting screw (9), spring (8), friction spring (7) and retaining ring (13) in the lower clamp. 3. Position the throttle (6) on the handlebar. Place the lower clamp (3) on the throttle. Position the ferrules (4) over the cable balls and seat them in the throttle notches. 4. Fasten the upper clamp (2) to the lower clamp (3) us·
ing the screws (1). Tighten the screws to 12·16 ft·lbs torque. 5. See Figure 2-59, 2-60, 2-61 and 2-62. Route throttle cables down right side of motorcycle, as shown.
6. See Figure 2·63. Install the idle cable (1) and spring into the longer of the two support sleeves on the carburetor. The idle cable has a 114 x 20 threaded adjuster at the throttle end. Install the throttle cable (2) into the other support sleeve on the carburetor. The throttle cable has a 5116 x 18 threaded adjuster at the throttle end.
1. Screw 2. Upper throttle clamp 3. Lower throttle clamp 4. Ferrule (2) 5. Control cab&e assembly (2) 6. Throttle grip 7. Friction spring
8. Spring 9. Spring 10. Handlebar 11. Grip plug (2) 12. Adjusting nut (2) 13. Retaining ring
Figure 2·58. Handlebar Throttle Control -
1981 and Later
Adjustment 1979 TO 1980 1. When turned by hand and then released, the throttle lever must return throttle grip (6) to the closed or idle position. If throttle grip (6) does not return to idle position freely, back off of adjusting screw (10) until this is accomplished. If the throttle grip turns stiffly, it should be disassembled, cleaned and inspected thoroughly. WARNING Do not overtighten the fnctlon screw. Operation with the friction screw overtightened is not recommend· ed because of the possible hazard involved when the engine will not return to idle position automatically in an emergency. 2. Adjust throttle cable FREE PLAY by turning adjusting nut (13) to desired position. The cable should not put pressure on the carburetor lever when handlebars are turned to left and right stops. 3. With handlebar in straight ahead position, adjust 2-58
Figure 2·59. Throttle Cable Routing -
1981
Figure 2·62. Throttle Cable Routing - 1983·1985 XLS Figure 2·60. Throttle Cable Routing -
1982
CAUTION
This adjustment Is necessary to prellent excess stress and potential failure of the throttle cable.
1981 TO 1985 (Figure 2-64) CAUTION
Thi s adjustment is necessary to prellent excess stress and potential failure to the throttle cables. NOTE
The throttle cable has a 5116 x 18 threaded adjuster and
;s assembled to the right side of the throttle grip. The idle cable has a 114 x 20 threaded adjuster and ;s assembled to the left side of the throWe grip. 2125
Figure 2·63. Cable Installation 1. Turn the cable adjusters and locknuts clock wise as far as they will go. Both cables should halle zero ad· justment to start this procedure. 2. Poi nt the fron t wheel straight ahead. Turn the throttle grip so the throttle is wide open (fully cou nterclock wise) and hold it there. Now turn the throttle cable adjuster (1) counterclockwise until the throttle cam stop (3) just touches the stop boss on the carburetor. Tighten the locknut (2) against the throttle cable adjuster and release the throttle. Figure 2·61. Throttle Cable Routing - 1983·1985 XLH and XLX
3. Turn the Iront wheel full right. Tu rn the idle cable ad· juster (4) counterclockwise until the cable housing 2·59
""
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
Throttle cable adjuster Locknut Cam stop Idle cable adjuster Locknut Cable housing Spring Figure 2·84. Throttle Cable Adjustment
(6) just louches the spring (7) in the cable support sleeve. Work the throttle grip to make sure throttle cable returns to idle position when released. II the cable does not return to idle, continue to turn ad· Juster (4) counterclockwise to achieve the correct ad· justment. Tighten the locknut (5) against the idle cable adjuster.
NOTE
On 1982 and later models the throttle clamp components (2 and 3) are Integrated Into the push button assembly. AI/adjustment procedures remain unchanged.
The throttle control must operate freely without binding. With the friction adjusting screw (9) backed off, the car· buretor throttle must return to the closed (idie) position.
CLUTCH HAND CONTROL Removal WARNING Disconnect the battery cables (negative cable first) to prevent accidental start·up of vehicle and possible per· sonal injury.
1. Remove foot shift lever, and left footrest assembly.
2-60
NOTE
On 1979 models It wlff be necessary to remove the ex· haust system components on the left side of the motorcycle. 2. On late 1984·1985 models, remove access plug (7) from the front chain cover using ACCESS PLUG REMOVAL TOOL, Part No. HO·33186. Remove the spring (8) and lockplate (9). Remove the clutch adjustment nut (10). 3. Loosen the locknut and back off the primary chain shoe adjuster. Drain and remove the primary chain case cover. 4. See Figure 2-65 and 2-66. Disconnect clutch cable by rotating the cable coupling (4) 90 * from installed position in lever (5) (Coupling has a flat which locks it in place in the lever (5).) Unhook cable end (3) from coupling (4) loosen locknut (1) and unscrew adjusting sleeve (2) from cover.
5. See Figure 2-67. Remove the clutch cable and anchor pin from the handlever. On 1982 and later models It is necessary to remove the pivot bolt in order to remove the anchor pin.
Installation 1. Lubricate pivot pOints of lever. Use loctlte ANTI· SEIZE on pin and a lei Ion or silicone base lubricant on cable end.
6
1. Locknut 2. Adjusting sleeve 3. Cable and coli assembly
4. Cable coupling S. Release ramp and lever 6. Washer
Figure 2·65. Clutch Cable Removal and Installation, Primary Chaincase -
1979· Early 1984
1. locknut 2. Adjusting sleeve 3. Cable and coil assembly 4. Cable coupling 5. Release ramp and lever 6. Washer
7. Plug 8. Spring 9. lockplate 10. Nut
3
----'<~ ~
5
~6
Figure 2·66. Clutch Cable Removal and Installation, Primary Chaincase -
late 1984-1985
'''' Pivot bolt
Figure 2·67. Clutch Cable Removal and Installatlon Figure 2·68. Clutch Cable Routing -
1981 and Earlier
2. See Figure 2·67. Install the clutch cable and anchor pin to the clutch handlever. On 1982 and later models, install pivot bolt and retaining ring. 3. See Figure 2-68. On 1981 and earlier models, route the cable along the left side downtube and through the clip as shown. See Figure 2·69. On 1982 models, route the cable along the left side downtube as shown and through the cable guide on the upper engine mount. See Figure 2-70. On 1983·1985 XLH models, route the cable outside the left fork tube as shown and through cable guide on the upper engine mount. See Figure 2·71. On 1983-1985 XLS models, route the cable between the upper triple clamp and headlight housing, between the steering head and left fork tube as shown and through cable guide on the upper engine mount.
See Figure 2-72. On 1983·1985 XLX models, route the cable between the turn signal lamp and left fork tube as shown and through the cable guide on the upper engine mount. 4. See Figure 2-65. Install adjusting sleeve (2), washer (6), locknut (1) and cable (3) into cover. 5. Attach cable end (3) to cable coupling (4). Figure 2·69. Clutch Cable Routing 6. Replace gasket and install primary chain case cover. Tighten chain case cover screws to 90 to 110 in-Ibs torque. 7. Adjust primary chain tension. See FRONT CHAIN, section 6. 2-62
1982
8. On Late 1984 and 1985 models, install clutch ad· justing nut (10). 9. Adjust clutch cable. See CLUTCH, section 6.
2137
Figure 2·72. Clutch Cable Roullng -
1983·1985 XLX
10. On Late 1984 and 1985 models, Install the lockplate (9), spring (8) and access plug (7). 11.lnslall gear shift lever, tightening pinch bolt to 90·'10 in·tbs torque. Install left footrest assembly, lightening mounting nut to 24-36 ft·lbs torque. In· stall exhaust components If removed. Figure 2·70. Clutch Cable Routing - 1983·1985 XLH
SPEEDOMETER/TACHOMETER General The Instruments are non·repalrable and must be replac· ed II they are not working properly. Before replacing an Instrument, check to see If the problem Is caused by a faulty connection. Lubricate the cables with graphite grease every 5,000 miles, If applicable.
Replacement Use the following procedures to replace an instrument or instrument bulb. Remove mounting hardware and lift instrument up. Remove instrument by disconnecting cable. Replace any burnt out bulb by pulling bulb housing from Instrument.
HANDLEBAR SWITCH ASSEMBLY Figure 2·71 . Clutch Cable Routing -
1983·1985 XLS
The left handlebar switch assembly contains a rocker arm switch (head lamp hl·to beam) and two pushbutton switches (horn and left turn signal). The right handlebar switch assembly contains a rocker arm switch (emergency engine cut·off) and two pushbutton switches (engine start and right turn signal). Individual rocker arm and pushbutton switches can be replaced II not functioning. 2·63
1. Screw Switch housing cover Screw Rocker switch (Hi-Lo) Rocker switch (Run·Off) 6. Screw
2. 3. 4. 5.
7. Retainer
8_ Pushbutton switch 9. Rubber cap 10. Stoplight switch 11. Washer 12. Button cap
8 /
/
C)
",2
LEFT
Figure 2·73. Handlebar Switch Assemblies -
RIGHT 1981 and Earlier
A166
Switch Replacement (Figure 2·73)
1979·1981
1. Remove four screws (1) and pull off each switch housing cover (2). 2. Remove screws (3) and rocker switches (4 and 5) or screws (6), reta iner (7) and pushbutton switch (8) as needed. 3. Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly.
Switch Replacement - 1982 . 1985 (Figure 2·74) 1. Remove screws (1) from switch housing (2). 2. To replace switch(es) (3) remove screws (4). 3. Replace switch(es) (3) screws (4) and screws (1). Tighten to 18·24 in-Ibs torque. NOTE
See BRAKE Section for front brake switch.
4 1. Screw 2. Switch housing
3. Switch 4. Screw
Figure 2·74. Handlebar Switch Assemblies 1982·1985
2·64
FENDERS FRONT FENDER
,0,113
Removal (Figure 2·75) 1. Remove front wheel. See WHEEL section. Remove speedometer cable from speedometer drive and feed cab le through guide on fender.
For1c:
2. On 1983 and earlier XL models, remove four 5116-18 in. x 5/8 in. bolls and lockwashers securing fender to lorks. On XA-l000 and 1984·1985 XL models, remove four 5116·18 x 1-114 in. socket head screws and locknuts. 3. Remove fender.
Installation 1. Carefully remount fender using lour bolts removed. Tighten bolts to 19 f1·lbs torque on 1983 and earlier Xl models. Tighten nuts to 33 ft-Ibs on XR·1QOO and 1984-1985 XL models. ... 112
head cap screw Figure 2-76. Front Fender Mounting XR·1000 and 1984·1985 XL Models
All models except XlX 2. Feed speedometer cable through cab le guide on fender, if applicable. Reattach speedometer cable to speedometer drive. Reinstall front whee1. See WHEEL section.
REAR FENDER Removal and Inslallation
1979·1981
1. Remove 1/4 in. screw securi ng seal to fender, remove passenger strap, if applicable, and l ift off seat.
XLX
2. See Figure 2·77. Unplug tall la mp and rear signal lights. Cut cable straps if applicable. Push wires be· tween the oil tank and frame cross bar under rear fender. It may be necessary to loosen the two rear oil tank mounting bolts to gain clearance needed for wire plugs. 3. See Figure 2·78. Remove the 3/8-24 bolts, under fender, securing turn signal assemblies. Carefully pull wires through fender support assemblies.
NOTE
Washer, 5/16 in.
I Figure 2·75. Front Fender Mounting Xl Models
1983 and Earlier
Take note as to the location of spacers used between fender and fender supports, so they may be properly reinstalled. XLH motorcycles use spacers in conjunction with all mounting bolts and signal lights. XLS motorcycles use spacers only in conjunction with rear mountfng bolts.
2-65
4. Remove four 5116·24 acorn nuts securing fender sup· ports. Push bolts through fender and remove. Lilt off fender supports.
5 . Remove 5116·24 bolt securing fender, and passenger strap and carefully remove fender.
6. Carefully place rear fender into position and secure front with the 5116·24 bolt removed In Step 5. Tighten bolt to 19 fI·lbs torque. 7. Carefully place fender supports Into position on motorcycle. Align mounting holes and push moun· tlng bolts, removed in Step 4, through holes from in· side fender. NOTE
Install spacers into the same locations they were removed (rom. Figure 2·77. Tail and Signal light Wiring
Hex head bolt, 3/8-24
8. Use 5116·24 x 1 In. bolts in rear holes and 5116-24 x 1·1i2 In. bolts In front countersunk holes. Loosely secure with 5116·24 acorn nuts, plain washers and lockwashers.
9. Push turn signal wires through holes with half boss and route them under wire clips to front of fender. Using two 318 x 24 bolts removed in Step 3, secure turn signal assemblies. Tighten bolts to 33 1I·lbs tor· que.
10. Tighten four fender mounting bolts to 19 fl-lbs torque.
Removal and Installation - 1982 and Later 1. Remove 114 in. screw securing seat to fender and hardware securing passenger strap, if applicable, remove seal. Figure 2·78. Rear Fender Disassembly
2. See Figure 2·80. Unplug terminal block. Use a PIN
""
TERMINAL TOOL, Part No. HD·97362·71 , to remove pins from terminal housing .
3. Snap circuit breakers from clips.
4. See Figure 2·81 . Remove 318·24 bolts, under fender, securing turn signal assemblies. Carefully pull signal wires through fender and sup· port assemblies. NOTE
Take note as to the location of any spacers used be· tween fender and fender supports, so they may be prop· erly reinstalled.
5. Remove 114·28 hex socket screw and lockwasher securing plastic fender extension to lower bracket. FJgure 2·79. Tail Light and License Plate Bracket
2·66
6. See Figure 2-80. Remove 1/4·20 screw and hardware, securing fender to frame.
,."
5/ 16- 18. 1-114 In. with torque petch, lockw.. her end locknut 5/16-18 .'In. with
Figure 2·80. Tall and Signal light Wiring -
1982 and later Figure 2-81. Reer Fender Disassembly 7. Remove lour 5116·18 hex socket screws securing fender and fender supports. Carefully lift off fender.
NOTE
Complete following steps If 8 new, replacement lender is to be Installed.
13. See Figure 2-81 . Install fender supports and hard· ware, use 1· 114 in. long hex socket screws in the for· ward mounting holes. Tighten to 19 It·lbs torque.
8. Carefully drill out pop rivels securing circuil breaker clips with a 114 In. diameter drill. Rivet clips to the new fender.
14. Push turn signal wires through holes with half boss and route under wire clips to front of fender. Use a 318·24 bolt to secure signal light assembly. Tighten to 33 ft·lbs torque.
9. See Figure 2·77. Remove and discard two 1/4 in. speed nuts securing taillight assembly, transfer assembly to new fender and install it using new 1/4 In. speed nuts. Route wiring harness to Ironl of fender, securing It under wire clips.
15. See Figure 2-80. Reinstall connector pins, into the same locations they were removed. Reconnect socket/plug.
10. See Figure 2·78. Remove three 114-28 nuts securing license plale bracket and transfer assembly to new fender. Tighten screws to 6 1I·lbs torque.
CAUTION Check for proper tellllght end slgne' light operetlon, before operating motorcycle.
11. Carefully drill out pop rivets securing plastic fender extension with a 114 in. diameter drill. Rivet fender extension to new fender. 12. See Figure 2-80. Carefully place fender Into pOSition, secure with 114·20 screw, washers and new locknut. Tighten to 10 ft·lbs torque.
16. Install 114-28 screw and hardware securing plastic lender extension to lower bracket. 17. Install seal and passenger strap, If applicable.
2-67
SPECIFICATIONS (XR·1000) DIMENSIONS (in.) Wheel Base Overallength . Overall Width. Overall Height Road Clearance ..
TORQUES .. 60 .... .. 87.75
. .. 35 .... 45 ........ 6.75
WEIGHT (Ibs.) Weight as shipped from the factory .
. ... 495
VEHICLE WEIGHT RATINGS (Ibs.) The Gross Vehicle Weight Ratings (GVWR) and the Gross Axle Weight Ratings (GAWA) are found on a label on the frame steering head.
Axle nuts. . ......... 50 ft-Ibs Sprocket mounting bolts. . ...... 45-50 ft-Ibs Brake disc mounting - front .... 16-18 ft-Ibs - rear .. _.. _. __ .. _.. 23·27 ft·lbs Caliper mounting bolts - front. .40-45 ft-Ibs - rear. _.. _155-190 In-Ibs Upper bracket pinch bolt. . _.. _.. 20·25 ft-Ibs Lower bracket pinch bolt. . .30·35 ft·lbs . ........ 11 ft-Ibs Slider cap nuts. Throttle control clamp screws. . . .18-24 in-Ibs Handlebar clamp screws. . .. _. _12-15 ft-Ibs Rear l ark pivot shaft ....... 50 ft·lbs
BRAKE DISC Minimum thickness
Diameter
I Rear 11.5 in. I 11.5In.
Front
Front
GVWA GAWR·Front ......... . GAWR·Rear.
...... 900 Ibs. .. . 32Slbs. . ..... 575Ibs.
.180 in.
I
I
Rear _205 In .
TIRE DATA CAPACITIES Fuel Tank (U.S. GallOns) Standard - Total. . ..... 2.25 ...... 0.25 Reserve ....... .. • .. Optional - Total .3.00 Reserve. . .............. . ..... 0.25 Oil tank (U.S. Quarts) ... ..... 2.75 Transmission (U.S. Pints) . . ....... 1.5 Front Forks (ounces per fork) Wet. ...... 5.4 D')' . .6.4
Tire Pressure
Up to 300 lb. load including rider with passenger and cargo
Front
Rear
26
30
26
32
(PSI)
(Cold)
Up to gross GVWR" maximum load
Gross VehIcle Weight Rating (GVWR) IS gIven on a label located on the frame.
ADJUSTMENTS
WARNING
Brakes Rear Master Cylinder Plunger Free Play .
. . . 1/16 in.
Maximum cold pressure of rear tires is 32 pSi. Maxi mum cold pressure of front tires Is 40 pSi .
2·69
WHEELS (XR·1000) FRONT WHEELS
REAR WHEELS
Disassembly and Reassembly
Installation
The brake discs on the front and rear wheel assemblies are attached by Torx screws. See Figure 2-82. These screws replace the socket head screws identified as item (7) in Figure 2-3 and 2-4 and lIem (10) in Figure 2-6 and 2-7 in the Service Manual. During removal or installation, a special tool is required to fit the special lorx recess in the head of the screw. The tool is identified as a T·40 socket adapter or equivalent. When in· stalling, apply Locktite Stud'n Bearing Mount to threads and lighten to 16·18 fHbs torque.
The XR·l000 has a debris deflector welded to the spacer at the sprocket side of the wheel assembly. The deflector must be rolated during Installation so that the U·shaped end 01 the deflector straddles the top 01 the swing arm as shown in Figure 2-83.
@(Torx)
Screw
Figure 2·82. Brllke Disc Fllstener
Figure 2·83. Debris Deflector
2·71
BRAKES (XR·1000) as a piston modification accomp lished the same pur· pose. See Figure 2-84. Any reference to the removal or installat ion of th e flapper valve is to be ign ored.
FRONT BRAKE MASTER CYLINDER
WARNING
Disassembly and Assembly The fron l hydraulic master cylinder no longer has the flapper valve which was Installed on earlier vehicles. The hexagonal nylon flapper valve is no longer needed
Installation of a flapper valve disc on master cylinders where it is not required may cause brake drag or lockup. Always after servicing the master cylinder actuate the brake lever with the reservoir cover removed. While ac-
... 216
1. Master cylinder 2. Mastsr cylinder cover
3. Gasket 4. Screws
H. Cup
5.Bolt
18. PI ••on
6. Washers (2) 7. Hydraulic line 8. Retaining ring
9. 10. 11. 12.
Pivot ring
Brake lever Sight glass Grommet 13. Screws (2)
~i ,1
14. Clamp 15. Spring 16. Stop
19. 0·,;n9
20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25.
13 /11 ~ (3 "11~
Dust boot Push rod and switch Reaction pin Brake hose Lockwasher Bolt
~ I~
~3 6
u
/
~
5,~ ~
~' ~
~
14-
2
Al
J
1
I,
~ 'c
o o
13
r-14
8'25
Figure 2·84. Front Hydraulic Master Cylinder -
o
1983 2·73
tuating the brake lever a small spurt of fluid will break through the fluid surface if all internal components are working satisfactorily.
Inspect al l components carefully for excessive wear or damage. Clean all meta l parts with alcohol. Do not use gasoline. Clean all rubber parts in denatured alcohol or brake fluid.
FRONT BRAKE CALIPER (Figure 2·85 and Figure 2·86) Disassembly To disassemble the XR-l000 front brake caliper for ser· vicing do the following: 1.
WARNING Always clean brake system rubber parts by washing in denatured alcohol or brake fluid. 00 NOT use mineral base cleaning solvents such as gasoline or paint thinner. Use of mineral base solvents will cause deterioration of the rubber parts, which will continue after assembly, resulting in component failure.
Remove the upper mounting bolt (1) and the lower mounting pin (2) to release the caliper assembly from the vehicle.
Reassembly
2.
Disconnect the brake line at the caliper fitting.
After the parts have been inspected and any worn or damaged parts replaced, reassemble the caliper as follows:
3.
Move the caliper assembly to a clean bench area and remove the retainer screw (15), pad retainer (14) and inside pad (9).
4.
The outer pad (9), pad holder (7) and spring clip (8) are then removed as an assembly. Remove pad (9) from pad holder (7) by pushing the pad free of the pad hold down spring clip (8).
5.
Pry out the retaining wire (13) by inserting a small screwdriver into the notched groove at the bottom of the piston bore.
6.
Remove the piston dust boot (12). Then remove the piston by applying air pressure to the hydraulic brake line inlet.
1.
Apply a coating of D.O.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLU ID to the exterior surfaces of sea l (10). Install seal (10) and O·rings (6) in their respective grooves. Lightly coat the cavity of pin boot (5) with Dow Corning Moly 44 grease. Insert the flanged end of pin boot (5) into the internal groove of the threaded bushing bore.
2.
Push the piston dust boot (12), with the open side downward, over the top of the piston. Push down· ward on the boot until the inner lip seats in the groove at the top of the piston.
3.
Coat the outside circumference of piston (11) with D.0.T.5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID and push the piston with dust boot into the piston bore. If neces· sary, press the piston in with a "C" clamp.
WARNING When removing the piston with air pressure, wear heavy gloves or hold piston with heavy towel to prevent person· al injury. Be sure piston is not dropped on hard surface. 7.
Pull threaded bushing (4) out of bushing bore, then remove pin boot (5) from groove in caliper.
8.
Seal (10) and the three O-rings (6) can be removed by prying them out of their respective grooves.
NOTE
Piston must be pressed all the way into the bore when new brake pads have been installed to assure proper clearance when calipers are reassembled to vehicle.
4.
Position the gap of the retainer wire at the top of the caliper and compress the retainer wire (13) into the piston bore. Push the retainer wire fi rmly against the piston dust boot.
Cleaning, Inspection and Repair
5.
If brake pads are worn to 1116 in. or less, replace entire set (9). After the brake pads are installed, they should be burnished by making several hard stops.
Light ly coat the bores of the cal iper mounting lugs with Dow Corning Moly 44 grease.
6.
Push the threaded bushing into the pin boot and through the bush ing bore in the mounting lug. Keep push ing unti l the free end of the pin boot seats in the grooved shoulder next to the hexagonal head of the threaded bushing.
7.
Lay the pad holder(7) down on a firm flat surface. If the caliper is right hand, the upper mounting bolt
WARNING For correct and safe brake operation, all brake pads (left and right hand calipers) must be replaced at the same time. Rear brake pads must also be replaced in pairs.
2-74
.... 235
er mounting bolt 10. Seal piston 1. Upp lower mou nting pin 2 11. Piston dust boot 12. Piston re 3: Flat 4. Threa 13 Retaining wi 4· Pad retainer 5. Pin boot 8. 0 ·rlng Retainer screw 7 Pad holder 16 Caliper Spring clip Bleed titt lng 9. Pad set
wda.sdh:~shlng
~s:
17:
8:
17
------------------------~~. IF:;~ 9~ u' :re :2;-'8 :5,;. the.,~~c~a~lI~p:.~r:(I.~It~)
l
k:
Front Bra •
I Ihe uppe at the r moun UPPt.ng bolt hole hole mus I be paSI ndToned . hiI cal iper is le'.1 .ha ed' al the upper rig er . lelL If
____
~~~~~;;~~ shown lett handd opposite)
0 ( R·ght
han
. _
Pad holder
must be pOSition f pad ho lder (7) . cl ip (8) al the top a Install the .sP,,~gu,e 2-86. .
B.
9_
as shown on Fog
th~
lator backong,
~'9htl'
~ad
Wo th·~=ul:.ed I,
spring clip.
10.
th~
ad thai has the i~SUWith the lower Take pad (9), Pp of the spring clip opening of the and place II on entering wlth'n the pad nd of the pad. S e ad centere. downward, holder. back the flal surholder and the I ad until It Is agal .on from the sh down on the ~ by spring lenSI pu face an d is held firm
lac~s~
(7) and spri ng
~~~pe~~)t a:sei~~tl~~;~~t~a~fethe
h outer pad (9), pad with holder the bac kslde of piston. the pad aga
NOTE
always or left hand nd 'riction m8 te(f~. Ihtmust The spring clip the pad ';;:rong, 'ace sides.a7,ar, holder reverse d and the
:%:~i:ton regard/~s~:~;~oved,
thep~a:s7:asssembled.
Figure 2·86. Spring Clip Installation
2-75
11.
Place the inner pad (9) (without insulator) in the recessed seat machined into the caliper.
t2.
Position the pad retainer (14) within the counterbore at the inside end of the caliper. Insert self·tapping retainer screw (15) through the hole in the center of pad retainer (14) and thread into the hole in the pad. Tighten screw (15) to 55·70 in·lbs.
Inslallation
caliper, the fork lug and then thread into the lapped hole at the tower end of pad hOlder (7). Tighten lower mounting pin to 40·45 ft·lbs torque. 5.
Tighten upper mounting bolt (1) to 40·45 ft·lbs torque.
6.
If the bleeder screw was removed, it should be in· stalled and tightened to 32·40 in·lbs.
7.
Using new banjo washers (6), connect the brake line (23) to the caliper. Torque banjo bolt to 30·35 ft· tbs torque.
8.
With master cylinder nearly level, fill D.C.T. 5 HYDRAULIC BRAKE FLUID top. Reservoir may be filled with pressurized equipment. See HYDRAULIC SYSTEM.
9.
Actuate the brake lever. Check to be sure there is a small spurt of fluid breaking the fluid surface when actuating the brake lever.
10.
Reinstall the master cylinder cover. Be sure the longer screw is installed at the end of the cover with the thicker section. Actuate the master cylinder and check for leaks.
Mount the caliper on the vehicle as follows: 1.
Coal the outside diameter of mounting pin (2) with Dow Corning Moly 44 grease.
2.
POsition the caliper with the disc between the frlc· tion pads and the two mounting holes in the caliper aligned with the mounting lugs on the fork.
3.
4.
2·78
Place a flat washer on boll (1), then insert the up· per mounting boll through the fork lug, through the pad holder (7), then thread Ihe boll into the thread· ed bushing (4). Insert the lower mounting pin (2) through the
reservoir with to 1/8" below bladder type BLEEDING
HANDLEBAR CONTROLS AND INSTRUMENTS (XR·1000) THROTTLE CONTROL
CLUTCH HAND CONTROL
The throttle control on the XA·1000 vehicle has a single control cable which is connected to a dual control drum. Two control cables extend from the drum to the throttle valve at each Individual carburetor. An idle cable is not required with the XA·1000 carburetors. The single con· trol cable Is disconnected and installed at the throttle grip In the same manner as previously described In the Service Manual. The cable connection 10 the drum is carried out by leading the cable down the light side of the vehicle and Inserting the cable stop through the threaded hole in the drum mounting bracket. The con· duit end Is then firmly pressed into the bracket hole. The metal cable stop al the end of the cable is led around the underside of the drum sleeve and anchored In the slot in the side 01 the steeve groove. See Figure 2-87.
The clutch control cable is routed through a cable guide on the XA·l000 vehicle. The cable guide can be removed or installed without disconnecting the clutch cable. The cable is held by open coils at one end 01 the guide and the other end Is attached to the generator through bolts at the generator end cover. See Figure 2-88. The guide will have no effect on the removal or reassembly 01 the cable however, It is important that it is in place, with the cable running through the guide, after assembly.
After assembly, loosen the locknut at the bottom side of the adjuster. Adjust the cable length so that the spring loaded drum has full rotation to Its full throttle off posi· tion. Be sure the throttle cable drum may rotate, caus· ing the throttle cables to lose their adjustment.
Flgu ... 2-88. Clutch C.ble Guide
2·77
ENGINE
SU BJ ECT
1.
Specifications .
2.
Generallnformalion
3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11 . 12.
PAGE NO.
. ........... . . ..... . .. . .. . . . 3-1 . . .. . 3-5
Cyl inder Head .. . .. . ...... . .. . . ..... 3·15 Cyl inder and Piston . .. . .......... . ..... . .... . ....•. . . 3-25 Gearcase . . . .. . .. . .... . ........ . .... .. .... . . . .3-31 Crankcase ..... . 3-43 Specifications (XA·1000) . . ...... . ... 3-55 Engine (XA-l000) .. . .. . ...... . ... . .. . ..• . . . . 3-57 Cylinder Head (XR-l000) .... . .. . .. . . . . . . ... 3-63 Cylinder and Pistons (XA·l000) . . .......... . ... • ........... .. . .. . ..... 3-69 Gearcase(XA·l000) . . 3-71 Crankcase (XA-l000) . . ... 3-77
I
SPECIFICATIONS GENERAL
CONNECTING ROD
Numberofcylinders.
. .. 2
Type . .. . ............. ..... 4·cycle, 45 degree V-type
Bore................... . . ......... 3.188in. Stroke. . . ............. . ...... 3.8125 in. Piston displacement ... SO.9 cu. in. (997.5 ee) Compression ratio 1979 ·1981 . . ....... 9.0 to 1
1982 ................................... 8.0101 1983·1985. . ........ 8.8to 1
VALVES Fit in guide Exhaust. .0025 in. - .0045 In. Intake. .0015 in. · .0035 in. Outer spring load - Early 1983 and earlier Valve closed. 50-66Ibs. at '-9/32 in. Valve open ................. 152·168Ibs. at 15/16 in. Ouler spring load - Late 1983 and later Valve closed.......... . .52-67Ibs at 1-3/8 in. Valve open .............. 171.6-194.4lbs. at 31132 In. Inner spring load - Early 1983 and earlier Valve closed. 30-36Ibs. at 1-3/32 in. Valve open .......... ........... 76-88Ibs. at 3/4 in. Inner spring load - Late 1983 and later Valve closed. . .20.9-29.1 Ibs. at 1-13/64 in. Valve open. . .. 79.7-90.3 Ibs. at 25/32 in. Spring free length - Early 1983 and earlier Outer. 1-112 in. Inner. . ... 1-23164 in. Spring free length. Late 1983 and later Outer............... . .............. 1-9/16 In. Inner ................................. 1-11/32In.
ROCKER ARM Shaft fit in bushing (loose) .
.0005 in. - .0025 In.
CYLINDER HEAD Valve guide to cylinder head (press fit) .
Piston pin/bushing clearance. End play between flywheels Crank pin/rod bearing clearance
.0008 in. - .001 n. .005 in. - .025 n. .001 in.-.0015 n.
OIL PUMP Pressure (oil hot) Minimum (al idle). 4Ibs./sq. in. Maximum (al 3500 rpm) . 10-20 Ibs./sq. in. Feed and scavenge Inner/outer gerolor clearance. .000 In. Shaft/bushing clearance .0005 in. .011 in. Feed gear height in pump cover.
TAPPETS Fit in guide (lOOse). .001 in. Roller fit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0005 in. - .001 in. Roller end clearance. .008 in. - .010 in. Just free (no lash) - engine cold Tappet clearance. .
VALVE TIMING (@O.050 in. tappet lift) 1979 Intake . .. 35.4°±3"BTDC Opens. Closes .......... . . . . .. ......... 41.2 " ±3° ABDC Exhaust . .. 44.3°±4° BBDC Opens. . ... 20.2°±4"ATDC Closes. 1980 and later Intake ..7.5°±3°BTDC Opens. .. 42.5°±3"ABDC Closes Exhaust Opens....... . . . . . . . . ..... . 36" ±4" BBOC Closes. ...... . . • . . .. 8"±4"ATOC
.0022 in.
PISTON
GEARCASE
Fit in cylinder (loose) .003 to .004 in. 197910 Early 1985. .0025 to 0.0035 in. Late 1985 . Ring gap - 1982 and earlier .010 In. Top compression ... . .010 in. 2nd compression ......... . .010 in. Oil control ............ . .0035 in. Compression ring side clearance Ring gap - 1983 - 1985 Top compression. .008 in. .008 in. 2nd compression. . Oil control .015In. Oil control ring side clearance. . .003 In. Compression ring side clearance .004 In. Piston pin ............... Light hand press fit at 70 "F
Idler gear shaft in bushing ... .0005 in. - .001 In. .6005 In. - .002 In . Cam gear shaft in bushing. Cam gear shaft in needle bearing .0005 in. - .003 In. Cam gear shaft end play ............ minimum .005 In. except rear intake which Is ..................004 in. Cam gear backlash. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .0000 in. - .0005 in.
FLYWHEEL ASSEMBLY Runout al rim (flywheels) .. .003 In. Shaft runout at flywheel end ............... .001 In. End play ........... . .001 - .007 In.
3·1
SPROCKET SHAFT BEARING Cup fit in crankcase (light). Cone fit on shaft (tight).
.0004 in. - .0024 in. .0002 in.· .0015 in.
PINION GEAR SHAFT Fit in roller bearing (tight). Fit In cover bushing (loose) .
.0005 in. - .0015 in. .0005 In. - .0015 in.
IGNITION 1979 Ignition timer air gap. .004 - .006 in. 10-BIDC (1/3 2" BTDC) Retarded Automatic advance 40 -BToC (17132" BlOC) Spark plug gap setting (NO.4 plug) . .060 in. 1980-1982 Ignition timer air gap ......... .. .... . not adjustable BO BTOC Retarded ................. . Idle advance (600·1600 rpm). 26° BTDC Full advance (above 1600 rpm) 40° BlOC Spark plug gap setting (No. 4·5, 4AS) . .038-.043 in.
Valve stem taper .0015 in. Valve stemlface eccentricity .. .002 in. Valve seat width. .062 in .· .100 in. Valve stem protrusion from guide .. 1.420In. Outer spring load· Early 1983 and earlier . .. 40-66Ibs. at 1-9132 In. Valve closed. Valve open. . ............. 140·168 Ibs. at 15/16 In. Outer spring load· Lale 1983 and later Valve closed. . ....... 43-69Ibs. all-3/8In. Valve open. . ...... 150-172lbs. at 31132 in. Inner spring load - Early 1983 and earlier 25-36Ibs. at '·3132 in. Valve closed. Valve open. . ...... 65-88Ibs. at 314 in. Inner spring load - Late 1983 and laler Valve closed . . ... 17-29 lbs. all·3/16 in. Valve open. . . . ........ 68-90 Ibs. a125/32 in. Spring free lenglh . Early 1983 and earlier Outer 1·7/16 in. Inner. . ........... . . . . . 1·19/64 in. Spring free length . Late 1983 and later Ouler .. . ..... 1-112 in. Inner .............. . . ....... 1·5116 in.
Rocker Arm Shaft ftt in bushing ... .... . .• • ..... 0005 in. - .0035 in.
1983·1985 Range ............ . • . • . 10 0 .55° BTDC Start . 10° BTDC Fast idle.. . ........... . 40· BlOC 1800·2800 rpm ..... ....... .... . 55° BTDC Spark plug gap setting (No. 4R5) . .038 to .043 in.
Cylinder Head Valve guide to cylinder head Warpage .......... .
Cylinder
TORQUES Gear shaft nut ...................... 100 to 120 ft-Jbs Sprocket shaft nut ............. 100 to 120 ft-Ibs Crank pin nuts ...................... 150 to 175 ft·lbs with commonized tapers. . 150 to 185 ft·lbs . .90 to 110 In·tbs Oil pump mounting screws. Cylinder head bolts .......... ..... .... 55 to 65 ft-Ibs Cylinder base nut ............ 25 to 35 ft-Ibs Rocker arm cover nut. . . .... 14 to 19 ft·lbs Tappet adjusting locknut. ...... 6 to 11 ft·lbs Rear motor mounting bolt-nut. . ... 16 to 24 ft·lbs
SERVICE WEAR LIMITS NOTE
Wear limits are given as a guideline for measuring engine components that are not new. For new com· ponents or for measurements not given under WEAR LIMITS, see the foregoIng.
Taper. Out-of-round .............. . Warpage head and base gasket surfaces.
.002 in. .001 in. .003 in.
Piston Fit in cylinder (loose) 1979to Early 1985 Late 1985 .. Ring gap - 1982 and earlier Top compression. 2nd compression. Oil control Compression ring side clearance Ring gap - 1983·1985 Top compression .. 2nd compression. Oil control Oil control ring side clearance. Compression ring side clearance
Valves
Connecting Rod
Fit In guide Exhaust ...... . • •• • .•..•••...... 0025 in.· .007ln. Intake. .. _. . . . . . •. . ...•....... 0015 in.· .006 In.
Piston pin /bushlng clearance. End play between flywheels Fit on crank pi n (loose) ..
3·2
.001 in. .005 in.
.003 to.OO6 in. . . . 0055 in. .010 In. to .031 .010 In. to .031 .010 In. to .050 .0035 in. to .006 .008 in. to .022 .008 in. to .030 .015In. to .055 .003 In. to.OO6 .004 In. to .006
.0008 In. - .002 in . .005 In. - .030 in. .001In.-.0017In.
011 Pump Feed and scavenge Inner/outer
gerolar clearance Shaft/bushing clearance ......... . Feed gear height in pump cover.
.004 in. .0005 in. .001 In.
Flywheel Assembly
Tappets Fit in guide (loose) Rollerfil, Roller end clearance.
.001 in.· .(X)2 in. .0005 in.· .0012 in. . ......008 in. - .012 in.
Gearcase Idler gear shaft in bushing
Cam gear shaft in bushing. . ...0005 in. · .003 In. Cam gear shaft in needle bearing .......... ,0005 in.· .0031 In. Cam gear shaft end play. . ..... minimum .005 in. except rear intake which is ................ .. 004 in.
Runou! al rim (flywheels) .......... • • •.. . Shalt runout at flywheel end End play ............ .
.006 In. .002 In. .007 In.
Pinion Gear Shaft .0005 in. - .003 in.
Fit in roller bearing (tight). Fit in cover bushing (loose) ..
.0005 In .•. 002In. .0005 in.· .0035 in.
3·3
GENERAL INFORMATION DESCRIPTION The engine is a two-cylinder, four-cycle, air cooled, overhead-valve V·type engine with 1000cc (61 cu. in.) displacement. It has three major component assemblies: cylinder, crankcase and gearcase. The CYLINDER assembly includes cylinder head, valves, rocker arms and piston . Cylinders mount on the engine crankcase in a 45 degree V, with both connect· ing rods connected to a single crank pin. The up and down motion of the piston in the cylinder is converted to circular motion in the CRANKCASE. The built-up crankshaft consists of an offcenler crank pin mounted between two counterweighted flywheelS which rotate on two end shafts, which are supported by anti-friction roller bearings. The lower end of the rear cylinder connecting rod is forked to fit around the single-end front cylinder connecting rod, allowing a single connecting rod-crank pin connection to the flywheel. Flywheel rotation is clockwise, viewing engine from right side. Using the front cylinder firing position as a starting point, the rear cylinder fires at 315 degrees rotation (360 degrees minus the 45 degrees between cylinders). The front fires at 405 degrees (360 degrees plus the 45 degrees between cylinders). This completes the 720 degrees of flywheel rotation necessary for the four piston strokes. The GEARCASE is located on the right side of the crankcase and houses a gear train which operates and times the valves and ignition. The generator (1979-early 1984) is also driven from the gear train. A cam gear train consisting of four cam shafts with one cam lobe on each shaft is gear driven. The engine valves are opened and closed through the mechanicatlinkage of tappets, push rods, and rocker arms. Tappets serve to transmit the cam action to the valve linkage. Valve timing is obtained by meshing gearcase gears with timing marks aligned.
Most other engine components function similar to usual internal combustion engine design. For further description 01 part 'unction, see pertinent manual sec· tions.
GASOLINE 1979-1981 models use a good quality leaded or unlead· ed premium grade of gaSOline (94 pump octane or higher). 1982 and Jater models use a good quality regular grade leaded gasoline (89 pump octane or higher).
LUBRICATION General The engine has a force-feed (pressure) type Oiling system incorporating oil feed and return in one pump body, with one check valve on the oil feed side. The feed pump forces oil to the engine, lubricating lower connecting rod bearings, timing gears and bUShings, generator drive gear (1979-early 1984) rocker arm bush ings, valve stems, valve spring, push rods and tappets. Cylinder walls, pistons, piston pins and main bearings are lubricated by oil spray thrown off from connecting rods and crankshaft, and oil draining from rocker arm boxes through two holes in the base of each cylinder. The oil scavenging section of the pump returns oil to the tank from the engine.
Checking and Changing Oil Oil mileage normally varies depending on the nature of service, fast or moderate driving, and how well the engine is kept tuned. See Figure 3-1. Remove tank cap and dipstick located behind side cover on right side of motorcycle. Check oil supply at least every 500 miles or more frequently depending on the condition of the engine. The oil tank capacity Is 4 quarts for 1979, 1980 and 1981 and 3 quarts 1982 and later. The dipstick has two marks. One quart
Ignition spark Is produced by the operation of an electronic ignition module, ignition coil and spark plugs. Spark timing is determined by a trigger rotor and a magnetic sensing unit. On 1983 and Jater models spark timing is determined by a trigger rotor, a magnetic sensing unit and vacuum operated electric switch. On 1979 models, the trigger rotor has two lobes. The narrow lobe times the front cylinder and the wide lobe times the rear cylinder. On 1980 and later models the trigger rotor has two openings of equal size that time the cylinders. Both spark plugs fire each crankshaft revolution. However, the spark in one cylinder occurs ineffectually during its exhaust stroke.
Upper mark (full) Lower mark (add 011)
Figura 3·1. 011 Tank Dipstick
3·5
should be added when oil level is at the lower mark. Push cap all the way in to prevent leakage. Oil runs cooler and oil mileage is somewhat higher when oil tank is kept full. Check the oil level at regular intervals to avoid running dry. NOTE
Oil level should be measured with motorcyle held upright and oil at operating temperature .. See Figures 3-2 and 3-3. 1980 and 1981 models come equipped with an oil filter, located on a bracket between oil tank and engine. On 1982·early 1984 models, the oil filter Is mounted on the lower left front engine bracket. On late 1984 and 1985 models, the oil Ii Iter is mounted on the right crankcase and extends to the left side of the vehicle (Figure 3·4). Change the oil filter with the oil at the recommended 2500 mile interval or if oil is changed more frequently, it is recommended the filter be replaced also. Figure 3·3. Oil Filter Mounting -
198~·
Early 1984
after system has been drained and refilled with 011. Be sure oil pressure signal light goes out within 1 minute with engine operating at fast Idle. It light does not go out, loosen all pressure switch at front of 011 pump and 011 tank filler plug enough to allow about 2 oz. of 011 to flow from threaded connection while engine is running . Retighten switch and oil tank filler plug. Add engine all at tank to correct level.
Figure 3·2. Oil Filter Mounting -
1980-1981 Models
Alter a new engine has run lis first 500 and 2500 miles, and, at 2500-mlle Intervals thereafter, completely drain all tank of used oil and refill with fresh oil. If the engine is driven extremely hard or used on dusty roads or in competition, drain and refill at shorter Intervals. Draining should be done while ollis hot. It Is not necessary to drain the crankcase as it does not accumulate used all. Always change the oil filter when changing oil. Use proper grade of oil for the lowest air temperature expected before the next oil change period. CAUTION
Oil pump may lose prime because of air trapped in line 3·6
Figure 3-4. Oil Filter (late 1984 - 1985)
Winter Lubrication Combustion in any engine produces water vapor. When starting and warming up in cold weather, much of the vapor that gets Into the crankcase condenses to water before the crankcase is hot enough to exhaust the vapor through the breather system. If engine Is driven enough to get the crankcase thoroughly warmed up, most of this water is again vaporized and blown out through the breather. However, a moderately driven engine making short runs, does not thOroughly warm up and is likely to accumulate water in the oil tank.
In freezing wea ther, this water wi ll become slush or ice, and, if allowed to accumulate too long, may block the all lines and cause damage to the engine. Water mixed with oil for some time also forms sludge that is harmful to the engine and causes undue wear of working parts. In winter the oil change Interval shou ld be shorter than normal, and any engine used only for short runs must have oil drained frequently along with a thorough tank flushout before new oil is put in tank. The further below freezing the temperature drops, the shorter the oil change intervat should be.
011 Pressure Signal light The OIL signal light, when on, ind icates that oil is not circ ulating through the engine or that oil pressure is abo normally low. Proper operation Is indicated when the light is off. The OIL signal will light when the ignition Is turned on preparatory to starting engine. The light should be off when engine speed is approximately 1200 rpm. If the oil pressure signal light fails to go off at speeds above idl ing, it is usually due to one of the fal lowing causes: empty oi l tank; oil feed line clogged with ice and sludge (freezing weather); air bound; grounded oil signal switch wire; malfunctioning signal switch; gear pin sheared In all feed pump; diluted oil, or oil pump check valve is not functioning.
II the oil pressure signal light does not work when ignl. tlon is turned on preparatory to starting engine, it Is usually due to one of the following causes: signal switch; wiring; burned-out signal bulb, or dead battery.
4. When adequate pressure is produced, the all pressure indicator light sending unit is activated and the check valve opens.
5. With check valve- open, oil flows into the right crankcase through a hole located in the all pump gasket surface. 011 enters gearcase passage through hole in gearcase cover gasket.
6. Oil flow is then routed to both the crankshaft and the cylinder head areas. Oil enters a hole in the end of the pinion gear shaft and travels to the right flywheel where i t is rOuted through the flywheel to the crank pin. 011 Is forced through the crank pin to properly lubricate the rod bearing assembly.
7. Oil which does not enter the pinion gear shaft travels upward through the gearcase cover to the right crankcase. Oil flow continues through a channel in the crankcase to the overhead oil lines to both front and rear intake rocker arm shafts. The oil provides lubrication to the rocker arm shafts, bushings, In· take valves and push rods.
8. Oi l flow continues around a groove machined in the outside diameter of the large end of the rocker arm shaft and through the rocker arm cover to the ex· haust rocker arm shall. The exhaust rocker arm bushings and push ro ds are lubricated in the same manner as described for the intake shafts. The ex· haust valves are l ubricated and coo led by a hole drill· ed in the rocker arm. For this reason, the intake and exhaust rocker arms are not interchangeable.
9. Oil col lected in the push rod area of the cylinder
Oil Pressure Signal Light Switch The oil pressure signal light sw itch is a pressure ac· tuated diaphragm·type switch. The diaphragm is spring. loaded and held against Its contact point by spring ten· sian when oil is not circulating through the system, or when oil pressure is abnormally low. This closes the clr· cuit and causes the indicator light to go ON.
heads flows down the push rod covers to lubricate the tappets. Tappet rollers are lubricated by oil drain· ing into gearcase through two drain holes in tappet.
10. Oil collected in the intake and exhaust valve spring pockets drains to the flywheel compartment through holes drilled in each cylinder. Oil returning from the heads, rod assembly and gearcase collects in the sump area below the flywheels. 11. Oil collected in the sump area returns to the
Oiling System (Figure 3·5) 1. Oil is supplied to the gerotortype oil pump by gravity feed from the oil tank. Oil enters the feed section and fills a cavity located under the feed pump. NOTE
A complete explanation of the gerolor pump is given in GEARCASE section. See OIL PUMP. 2. The feed pump transfers oi l from the inlet cavity to the check valve located in the oullet line. 3. The one way check valve is pre·set to open at 4 to 6 psi oil pressure. Th is valve prevents grav ity oil drainage from tank to engine and acts as a re st ric· tion to activate oil pressure switch .
scavenge section of the oi l pump through a passage located in the rear section of the sump. Oil flow to the pump 'is accomplished by the scavenging effect of the pump and by the pressure created by the downward st roke of the pistons.
12. Return oil fills a cavity just above the scavenge pump . The pump transfers return oil to the outlet side of the pump and back to oi l tank. 13. All engine breathing is accompl ished through the gearcase breather system. On 1979 to early 1984 models, oil carried by the crankcase exhaust air is centrifugally separated from the air by an oil slinger on the end of the generator drive gear shaft. On late 1984 and 1985 models, oil carried by the crankcase exhaust air is separated by the breather baffle at the front of the gearcase.
1979-1981
Late 1984 & 1985
Figure 3·5. Oiling System -
3·8
Part I
Figure 3·5. Oiling System -
Part II
3·9
14. On the piston downstroke, exhaust air escapes through a one way check valve and is routed into the rear of the air cleaner housing. 15. Any oil that condenses in the breather hose, drains into the gearcase from drain hole below breather valve. 16. Scavenge pump. 17. Return oi l to tank. 18. Vent line to air cleaner.
Oil Pressure The oil pump is non-regulatory and delivers its entire volume of oil under pressure to the engine. When a cold engine is started, engine oil will be thick restricting cir· culation through the oiling system and causing high oil pressure. As engine becomes hot and oil thins, pressure will correspondingly drop. Similarly, when an engine Is operated at high speeds, the volume of oil circulated through the oil ing system increases, resulting in higher oil pressure. As engine speed is reduced, volume of oil pumped is also reduced, resulting in lower oil pressure. To check oil pressure, use OIL PRESSURE GAUGE, Part No. HD-96921 -52. Remove oil pressure switch from all pump and insert pressure gauge hose fitting in oil pump opening . Run the engine until oil becomes hot. Under normal riding conditions, oil pressure will vary from 4-15 pSi. Idle down and check the gauge. Oil pressure will vary from 4 to 7 psi. To ensure that the oil is hot prior to checking, motorcycle should be driven ?O miles at or above 50 mph.
REPAIR PROCEDURE General
Symptoms indicating a need for engine repair are often misleading, but generally if more than one symptom is present, possible symptom causes can be narrowed down to make at least a partial trouble diagnosis. An above normal consumption of 011 for example, could be caused by several mechanical lau lts. See TROUBLESHOOTING , Section 1. But, when accompanied by a blue-gray smoke from the exhaust, and when low compression is present , it indicates the rings need replac· ing . Low compression by itself, however, indicates 1m· properly seated valves, not worn rings. A noisy engine is usually caused by loose bearings. Main bearings are generally more durable than rod bearings or bushings so that the latler should be suspected first. Certain knocking noises may be caused by loose bearings, others by piston slap, a condition where piston or cylinder or both are worn out of round and loose fitting, allowing the piston to slap from front to rear of the cylinder as it moves up and down. Most frequenlly, valves, rings, pins, bushings and bearings need attention at about the same time. If the symp· toms can be narrowed down through the process of elimination to ind icate anyone of the above com· ponents Is worn, it is best to give attention to all of the cylinder head and cylinder parts.
Compression Test Procedure Satisfactory engine performance depends upon a mechanically sound engine. In many cases, unsatisfac· tory performance is caused by combustion chamber leakage. A compression test can help determine the source of cylinder leakage. Use CYLINDER COMPRESSION GAUGE, Part No. HD-33223·1. A proper compression test should be performed with the engine at normal operating temperature when possi· ble. Proceed as follows: 1. Disconnect spark plug wires, clean around plug base and remove plugs. 2. Connect compression tester to front cylinder.
When an engine needs repair, It Is not always possible to determine definitely beforehand whether repair can be made with only cylinder head, cylinders and pistons removed from engine or whether engine must be disassembled completely for crankcase repair. Most commonly, only cylinder head and cylinder repair is needed (valves, rings, pistons, etc.) and it is "recommended procedure to service these units first, allowing eng ine crankcase to remain in frame. Follow the procedure under STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR ENGINE REPAIR, Steps 1-11 to strip motorcycle for removal of cylinder head, cylinder and pistons.
3. With choke and carburetor thrott le plates in wide open position, crank engine continuously through 5 to 7 tull compression strokes. 4. Note gauge readings at the end 01 the first and last compression strokes. Record test results. 5. Connect compress ion tester to rear cylinder per manufacturer's instructions.
6. Repeat Steps 3 and 4 on rear cylinder. CAUTION
After disassembling "upper end " only, it may be found that crankcase repair is necessary. This requires removal of engine cra nkcase from chassis, outlined under STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR ENGINE RE· PAIR, Steps 12-25. 3-10
Make sure that throttle plate 18 In the closed position before starting engine.
7. If the final readings are 120 psi or more and it the
final readings do not indicate more than a 10 psi variance between cylinders, compression is considered normal. If compression does not meet specifications, see diagnostic chart following.
a cylinder leakage test on the front cylinder. Make a note of the percent leakage. Any cylinder with 20% leakage or more requires further attention.
8. Usten for air leaks at carburetor intake, tailpipe, 8. Inject approximately 112 oz. of SAE 30 oil into each cylinder and repeat the compression tests on both cylinders. Readings that are considerably higher during the second test indicate worn piston rings. Diagnosis Ring Trouble
Valve Trouble
Head Gasket Leak
Test Results Compression low on first stroke, tends to build up on the following strokes but does not reach normal. Improves conSiderab ly when oil is added to cylinder. Compression low on first stroke, does not build up much on following strokes . Does not improve considerably with the addition of oil. Check tappet adjustment.
head gaskel and liming inspection hole. Air escaping through carburetor i ndicates leaking intake valve. Air escaping through exhaust pipe indicates leaki ng exhaust valve. Air escaping t hrough timing inspection hole indicates leaking, worn or broken piston rings, worn piston andfor cylinder. listen around head gasket area to check for leaking gasket. NOTE
If afr fs escaping through valves, check tappet adjustment.
9. Repeal procedure on rear cylinder. CAUTION Make sure throttle plate is in the closed position before starting engine.
Same reaction as valve trouble
Cylinder Leakage Test The cylinder leakage test will pinpoint engine problems including leaking valves, worn, broken or stuck piston rings and blown head gaskets. The cylinder leakage tester applies compressed air to the cylinder at a controlled pressure and volume and measures the percent of leakage from the cylinder.
STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR ENGINE REPAIR WARNING To prevent accidental starter operation, disconnect bat路 tery cables (negative first) before doing any work on the engine, drive or electrical system.
Use a cylinder leakage tester such as the Sun MODEL CLT-228 or equivalent. Follow the specific instructions suppl ied with the tester.
1. Remove air cleaner assembly and back plate. Disconnect the cranKcase breather hose at the back plate.
The fo llowing are some general instructions that apply to Harley路Davidson V-twin engines :
2. Remove seat.
1. Run engine until temperature.
it reaches normal operating
3. Disconnect fuel hose at carburetor and drain gasoline. Remove gas tank.
2. Stop engine, clean dirt from around spark plugs and remove the spark plugs.
4. Disconnect throttle cables and choke wire from carburetor. On 1983 and later models, disconnect vacuum operated electric switch (V.D.E.S.) advance hose from carburet or.
3. Remove the air cleaner and set the carburetor choke and throttle In the wide open position.
5. Remove exhaust system.
4. Remove the liming inspection plug from the crank路case.
6. Drain crankcase oil. On 1980 and later models, disconnect oi l filter line at the filter.
5. The piston in the cylinder being tested must be at top dead center during the test.
7. Remove rear top engine support bracket. On 1983 and laler models, it is necessary to remove the V.O.E.S. before the rear top engine support bracket can be removed.
6. To keep the engine from turning over when air pressure is applied to the cylinder, engage transmission In fourth gear and lock the rear brake. 7. Following the manufacturer's instructions, perform
8. Remove front top engine support bracket. 9. Disconnect both spark plug wires.
3路11
"'218
vent
Transmission line
r-,~//~e~t ~in: "
"
I,
Main oil feed
'' :
Figure 3·6. Oil Hose Routing 10. Remove bracket which supports ignit ion switch, choke, and horn. Let hang loose. 11. To provide work space, remove ignition coil from frame. NOTE At this point upper end can be worked on see CYLINDER HEAD section. Otherwise proceed to next step below.
1983·Early 1984
18. On 1979 to early 1984 models, disconnect wires to generator. On late 1984 and 1985 models, discon· nect the regulator/rectifier from the alternator stator at the plug beneath the crankcase. 19. Disconnect black grounding wires attached to crankcase boll. 20. Detach tachometer cable, if applicable. 21. Detach clutch cable, along with hand lever.
12. Remove rear brake master cylinder mounting bolts. Disconnect brake line at master cylinder. Remove kick starter if applicable.
22. Remove the oil feed, return and vent lines. Remove the feed and return lines at the oil pump and vent line on top of the oil tank.
13. Remove rear chain sprocket cover. 23. Remove hardware attaching front of engine to frame. 14. Remove the rear chain. 15. Disconnect wire to oil pressure switch and remove oil pressure switch from motorcycle.
24. Remove hardware attaching rear of engine to frame. Rear mount remains attached to and is removed along with engine.
16. On 1979 models, disconnect ignition module wires from frame downtubes by cutting the cable straps. On 1980 and later models, unplug ignition timer plate wires from module, and on 1983 and later models disconnect vacuum operated electric switch (V.O.E.S.) from module.
25. Engine is now free to be removed from chassis. Left engine up off the mounting pad. Then, slip engine from left side of chassis, top of engine tipped slight· Iy off center of chassis.
17. Disconnect wiring from solenoid· plus battery cable on large upper post and black wire from starter relay on small post.
Late 1984 and all 1985 engines (models with alternator) should be removed from the right side of the chassis to avoid jiffy stand interference.
3·12
NOTE
" 218
Oil tank return
Figure 3·7. Oil Hose Routing -
Late 1984 • 1985
3·13
CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAL
remove spring keepers (2).
1.
Strip motorcycle as described in STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR ENGINE REPAIR, Steps 1-11.
2.
Remove carburetor and manifold assembly from engine.
3.
See Figure 3-9 and 3-10. Loosen two oil line nuts (2).
4.
6.
Push upper covers (8) Into lower covers (4).
7.
Turn engine over unt il both valves, in head being removed, are cfosed.
8.
Loosen tappet adjustment screw locknut and back it all the way up to end of thread .
9.
Thread adjusting screw all the way Into tappet body.
10.
Carefully lift push rod assembly out of gearcase assembly and move to side to remove. Be careful not to bind push rod upper end in rocker arm hous路 ing as this may cause damage to rod.
11.
See Figure 3路9. Remove four cylinder head bolts (1).
12.
Free cylinder head assembly and carefully 11ft it over all lines from left side of motorcycle. Discard gasket.
Remove spark plugs. NOTE
With engine in chassis, the resr cylinder rocker arm cover and cylinder head must be removed from engine as an assembly. There is not enough clearance between rocker arm cover and frame to remove rocker arm cover only. 5
Push spring retainers (7, Figure 38) down and
Early 1979
Late 1979 & Later
/n @
1/
V
~ s/
r-l
[6----7 /~ 6----7 1/ ~---6 1---6 0 ____ 0 ____ ! I I
II~ .. ~
V
5
~iff~: \i!l
'-;~ ___2JI 1. Push rod 2. Spring keeper 3. Cork washer (3) 4. Lower cover
r-l
5. Washer
8. Upper cover
O~
r-
~
s/
lJ~:
~\ 0 2
~ _________ 3
6. Spring 7. Spring retainer
5
:....- ___ J 1. 2. 3. 4.
Push rod Spring keeper O-ring (3) Lower cover
0
_________ 3
5. Washer 6. Spring 7. Spring retainer 8. Upper cover
Figure 3路8. Push Rod Assembly
3路15
9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20: 21. 22.
2 --0
1. 2.
Cylinder head bolt and washer (4) 01llln8 nut and rubber sl.ev8 (2)
3.
Rocker arm cover to crankcase oil lin.
4. 5.
Rocker arm cover screw and washer Rocker arm cover gasket (2)
6. 7. 8.
Rocker arm cover Rocker arm shaft screw, shim and O·rlng (2) Rocker arm shaft acorn nut and washer (2 each)
In
Figure 3·9. Cylinder Head Assembly NOTE If cylinder head does not come loose on removal of
head bolts, tap lightly with rawhide hammer. Never try to pry head off. Mark push rods to Identify cylinder head and valve from which they were removed. Reassembly into same loca· tion will reduce ad;ustment required.
Rocker arm shaft (2) Rocker arm spring (2) Rocker arm (2) Racker arm spacer (2) Rocker arm bushing (4) Valve key (4) Valve spring upper collar (2) Inner valve spring (2) Outer valve spring (2) Valve spring lower collar (2) Intake and exhaust valve Intake and exhaust valve guide Cylinder head Cylinder head gasket
1979·Early 1983
Rocker Cover 1.
Remove cover screws (4) and lift off rocker arm cover assembly.
NOTE
DISASSEMBLY (Figures 3·9 and 3·10) NOTE
Mark a1/ parts In some manner, as they are removed, so they may be reassembled In same location. 3·16
Before further disassembly, carefully inspect rocker arm pads and ball sockets for pitting or excessive wear. Check rocker arm ( 11) for appreciable play on rocker arm shaft (9). If rocker arm assembly is noticeably worn, disassemble unit for further Inspection and / or replace· ment of parts.
\
12
10
\
11~~@
13\:11'
9
(; _
~ ~©
"\~ l'¥" #~ ~,©O V '" ~
A
(
/~
1 16
17
fij)@
/~,
18
/ 20
1~~
~ 19
1. 2.
3. 4. 5. 8. 7. 8.
9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22.
Cylinder head bolt and washer (4) Oil line nut and rubber sleeve (2) Rocker arm cover to crankcase all line Rocker arm cover screw and washer (7) Rocker arm cover gasket (2) Rocker arm cover Rocker arm shaft screw, shim and a-ring (2) Rocker arm shaft acorn nut and washer (2 each) Figure 3·10. Cylinder Head Assembly -
2.
Remove rocker arm shaft screw, shim(s) (if used) and a-ring (7). Retain screw and shim(s) but discard a-ring.
3.
Remove acorn nut and washer (8).
4.
Carefully tap rocker arm shaft (9) through cover (6). Remove the following parts: spring (1), rocker arm (11) and spacer (12).
Rocker arm shaft (2) Rocker arm spring (2) Rocker arm (2) Rocker arm spacer (2) Rocker arm bushing (4) Valve key (4) Valve spring upper collar (2) Inner valve spring (2) Outer valve spring (2) Valve spring lower collar (2) Intake and exhaust valve Intake and exhaust valve guide Cylinder head Cylinder head gasket
Late 1983 and Later
arms have an extra oil hole to provide lubrication and cooling to end of valve stem.
Valve Disassembly 1.
See Figure 3·11. Compress valve springs using VALVE SPRING COMPRESSOR, Part No. HD-8062.
2.
Remove valve keys (14, Figure 3-9 or 3-10) from valve stem end.
CAUTION Rocker arms are not interchangeable. Exhaust rocker
3·17
3.
Remove valve spring compressor and the lollowing parts: Upper valve spring collar (15), valve springs (16 and 17), lower valve spring collar (18) and valve
4.
If valve seat is pitted, corroded or shows indication of improper valve seating, it must be relaced or replaced. See REFACING VALVE SEAT.
5.
Check length and tension 01 each spring (16 and 17) with a VALVE SPRING TESTER, Part No. HD·96796·47. Replace spring il compression or length wear limit is exceeded. See engine SPECIFICATIONS lor applicable information.
6.
Clean and inspect valve . Use a wire wheel to remOve carbon from valve head and stem. Never use a lile, or other hardened tool, as it will scratch or nick valve. Replace valve il it is badly scored, warped or bent. Reface valve il lace is pitted, burnt or corroded . See REFACING VALVE .
7.
Clean valve guide with a soft brush and solvent. Check valve lit in guide. Reier to REPLACING VALVE GUIDE lor correct procedure.
8.
Inspect push rod lor damage or wear. II ball ends are worn or flattened, replace push rod.
(19).
4.
Remove valve guide (20) only il necessary. Reier to engine SPECIFICATIONS to determine il valve guide removal is necessary. If valve guide removal is necessary, heat the cylinder head and drive or press the old guide Irom the head using a suitable drill.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION 1.
Inspect oil line nut rubber sleeve (2) and replace il damaged or worn.
2.
Carelully inspect rocker arm (11). Replace rocker arm bushings (13) il rocker arm shall (9) lit exceeds se rvice wear specification. Replace rocker arm (11) il pad or ball socket are pitted, worn or elongated .
REPLACING ROCKER ARM BUSHINGS NOTE
Replacement rocker arms are supplied with bushings installed and correctly rea.med. 1.
Thread a 9/16-18 in. tap into bushing.
2.
From opposite end 01 rocker arm, use a drift and press or drive bushing from arm .
3.
Carefully press replacement bushing into rocker arm . Oil holes must be correctly aligned and split portion of bushing must be towards top of arm. Press bushing .003·.013 in. inside arm.
4.
Line ream new bushing, using REAMER Part No. HD·94804-57, and opposite end bushing as a pilot.
5.
Replace remaining bushing, repealing Steps 1-4.
Figure 3·11 . Compressing Va lve Springs
3. Soak cylinder head (21) in GUNK HYDRO-SEAL un · til deposits are sofl. Carefully clean inside and outside with a wire brush . Blow off loosened carbon and dirt particles and wash cylinder head in solvent. Clean all oil passages with compressed air.
CAUTION Avoid contacting gasket surfaces with wire brush. Scratches or nicks will result in leakage_
3·18
VALVE GUIDES New style shoulderless intake and exhaust valve guides, Figure 3·12, have been incorporated on the XL series 1000cc engines, beginning with crankcase number 783101037. New, f lal, lower sp ring COllars, new, longer, inner springs and new longer outer springs are also being incorporated at the same time, to provide increased spring tension.
The new style valve guides will also be used for service replacement of the old style, shouldered guides on all XL series 1000cc engines. When new style Valve guides are used to replace the old style guides, it is not necessary to replace the old lower spring collar, old inner spring, old outer spring, upper spring collar, or the valve keys. Refer to the current XL Parts Catalog for old part number information. The new, flat, lower spring collars, the new, longer, inner springs, and new, longer outer springs, can be used only with the new style shoulderless valve guides. Refer to engine SPECIFICATIONS for new spring data. If replacement valve springs or lower spring collars are needed on models with old style, shouldered guides, the old springs or spring collar part numbers should be ordered from the XL Parts Catalog.
Figure 3-13. Shoulderless Valve Guide Driver Set
1.
After removing the valve keys, valves, collars and springs, heat the cylinder head and drive the old valve guides from the head with a hammer and drift pin.
2.
install the new valve guides using the VALVE GUIDE DRIVER SET. Place the correct end of the tooll over the guide and drive the guide into the head until the tool bottoms on the head. See Figure 3-14 for correct valve guide projection.
NOTE
To prevent possible mismatch of new springs with the old shouldered guides, or possible mixing of old and new springs, the new springs are identified with red or orange paint on several coils. Because the new style valve guides do not have a shoulder, a special two-piece VALVE GUIDE DRIVE SET, Figure 3-13 must be used for guide installation to obtain the proper installed height. See Figure 3-14. The set consists of DRIVER, Part No. HD路34740, and VALVE GUIDE TOOL, Part No. HD路33871.
CAUTION Excessive force may damage the cylinder head or guides. 3.
After installing a new guide, it must be checked to determine proper valve to guide fit as follows.
REPLACING VALVE GUIDES To ensure new valve guide is press fit, standard, .001, .002, and .004 oversize replacement guides are available. Exhaust Intake
Figure 3路12. Valve Guides and Collars
VALVE STEM CLEARANCES NORMAL MAXIMUM .007 in . .0025 in. .0045 in. .0015 in. - .0035 in.
.006 in .
4.
Clean up and size guides to .001 to .0005 under size using INTAKE EXPANSION REAMER 5/16 In., Part No. HD-94810-80 and EXHAUST EXPANSION REAMER 11/32 in., Part No. HO-94809-80.
5.
Hone guide to final size HONE, Part No. HD-34723, use a liberal amount of damage to the hone or the
6.
Any time a guide is removed and reinstalled or replaced, the valve seat must be reI aced to ensure concentricity. If valve lace and seat are not concentric or true, leakage and burning 01 valve may result or valve may break due to cocked seating and deflection 01 valve stem. See REFACING VALVE and REFACING VALVE SEAT.
using VALVE GUIDE Figure 3-15. Be sure to honing oil to prevent valve guide.
3路19
Figure 3-14. Valve Guide Projection -
Late 1983 and Later
3.
If, after grinding, valve edge is very thin or sharp, replace valve.
4.
If grinding indicates valve stem warpage, replace valve.
5.
If end of valve stem shows uneven wear, true the end on a valve grinder equipped with suitable attachment or replace valve.
REFACING VALVE SEAT Valve seats, like valves are subject to wear, pitting and burning and should be refaced each time valves are refaced.
Figure 3-15. Final Honing Valve Guide
REFACING VALVE A suitable valve grinding machine must be used to properly rei ace valves. Valve lace angle is 45 0 for both intake and exhaust valves . Adjust valve grinder accordingly. Observe the following guide lines when grinding valves. 1.
Make very light cuts, remove no more material than is necessary to clean up and true valve face.
2.
Pits and burnt surfaces must all be removed from valve face.
3¡20
See Figure 3-16. Prior to refacing valve seat, determine if seat is still usable or if replacement is necessary. A special GAUGE TOOL, Part No. HD-96489¡63, is available to accurately measure the "A" dimension. We recommend using a NEWAY VALVE SEAT CUTTER, to cut valve seats.
1.
Decarbonize combustion chamber.
2.
Cut 46- seat angle first, Figure 3-17. Cut only enough to clean up seal.
3.
See Figure 3-18. Applying blueing to valve face and install in head. Rotate valve against seat. Remove valve and check contact pattern. Valve seat contact area should be 1/16 in. wide and 2/3 of the way toward the outside edge of the valve face.
..A
Gauge
~""'""""{
/
Valve seat
1116 in. centered on valve face
'>
Valve face
A'<'"'--=--~~~~A Max.
Min.
1.420
1.375
Figure 3·18. Valve Contact Pattern
Figure 3·16. Valve Seat Specifications
,! ....
Head
Valve
Figure 3·19. Lapping Valve Face and Seat
Figure 3·17. Cutting Valve Seat
4.
If valve seat pattern Is too close to stem side of valve face, cut 60· angle to raise seat. If pattern Is too close to edge of valve face, cut 31 0 angle to lower seat.
5.
After cutting either or both 31° or SOo angle to posi· tion seat, final cut 46° seat angle to obtain proper 1/16 in. width.
6.
See Figure 3-19. Apply a louch of lapping compound to valve face, Insert valve In guide, and using I APPING TOOL, Pari No. HD·96550-36A, give a
few oscillations. Do this just enough to give face and seat a lapped finish. 7.
Recheck valve seat width and location as de· scribed in Step 3.
VALVE SEAT INSERTS As valve and seat are refaced from time to time, valve seat will widen and valve will seat lower when fully
3·21
closed, Passage around valve, when fully open, is restricted and valve will tend to float as spring tension is reduced. Valve seat inserts are available from the factory. Installation requires accurate boring equipment to machine correct counterbore in head, for installation within .004-.006 in. interference fit.
CAUTION
When Installing gasket (22) make sure oil return hole, in gasket, lines up with oil drain hole in cylinder head or oil flow will be restricted. 2.
Turn engine over until tappets are at their lowest position. Install push rods and cover ,assemblies in their original positions.
CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY (Figures 3·9 and 3·10)
3.
Carefully , from left side of motorcycle, place cylinder head assembly over oil lines and push rods.
Valve Assembly
4.
Thread cylinder head bolts (1) and washers, through head assembly, into cylinder. Just snug bolts, do not tighten.
5.
Carefully square manifold faces with cyliT1der head intake port faces. Install seals and clamps to se'cure manifold to cylinder heads.
1.
Apply a light coating of oil to valve seat and stem.
2.
Install valve (19) into original location, or location it was fitted to.
3.
Install lower spring collar (18), springs (16 and 17) and upper spring collar (15).
6.
Tighten each bolt (1) 118 or 114 turn at a time until all are tightened to 55-65 ft-Ibs torque.
4.
See Figure 3·11. Compress valve springs using VALVE SPRI NG COMPRESSOR, Part No. HO-8062.
7.
5.
Install valve keys (14, Figures 3-9 and 3·10) on valve stem end. Position keys so spaces between key halves are equal.
Make sure oil line fitting rubber sleeve is in place. Apply Loctite PIPE SEALANT WITH TEFLON, to threads and tighten oil line nut (2) to 70·100 in ·lbs torque.
8.
Reassemble remaining parts.
6.
Remove spring compressor.
Rocker Cover Assembly 1.
Place the following parts into cover: spring (10), rocker arm (11) and spacer (12).
2.
Carefully tap rocker arm shaft (9) through cover.
3.
Secure rocker arm shaft (9) with shaft acorn nut and washer (8), tighten to 8·16 ft·lbs torque. Check rocker arm action to make sure it is not binding.
ADJUSTING TAPPETS 1.
Engine must be cold during adjustment.
2.
See Figure 3·8. Push spring retainer (7) down and remove spring keepers (2).
3.
Turn engine over until valves are closed.
4.
See Fig ure 3-20. Loosen tappet adjusting screw locknut (3).
4.
Coat new o·ring with rubber lubricant and in stal l rocker arm shaft screw (7) with shim(s), if requir ed. To rque screw to 8-16 ft-Ibs.
5.
Turn adjusting screw (2) downward (into tappet body) until push rod (I) is just free and has noticeable up and down movement.
5.
Carefully clean top of cylinder head and rocker arm cover faces. Install a new gasket (5).
6.
Slowly turn adjusting screw (2) upward, toward push rod (1), unt il nearly all play is removed.
6.
Position rocker arm cover on cylinder head. Install rocker arm cover screws (4) with flat washer under head of each screw. Screws must be tightened evenly to attain a tight jOint. First turn them snug; then, tighten each one 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time until all are tightened to 14·19 ft·lbs torque.
7.
Tighten locknut (3), again!>! adjusting screw (2), to 72-132 in-Ibs.
8.
Recheck for correct adjustment. Push rod (1) should have a sl ight amount of play or shake and must freely turn completely around without trace of binding, when rotated by fingertips.
9.
Reassemble push rod covers. Make sure both ends are properly seated against O-rings or cork washers.
CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION 1.
3-22
Place a new gasket (22) into position on cylinder.
2.
Push upper cover (8) into lower cover (4).
3.
Turn engine over untillhe appropriate valve is closed.
4.
Loosen tappet adjustment screw locknut (3) and back il all the way up to end of thread.
5.
Thread adjusting screw (2) all the way into tappet body.
6.
Carefully lift push rod assembly out of gearcase assembly and move to side to remove. Be careful not to bind push rod upper end in rocker arm housing as this may cause damage to rod.
:;t--- 3
1. Push rod 2. Tappet adjusting screw 3. Tappet adjusting screw locknut
Inslallalion 1.
4. Tappet bOdy Figure 3·20. Adjusting Tappets
PUSH ROD REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION (Figure 3·8)
Inspect O-rings or cork washers and replace as
necessary . 2.
Carefully locate ball end of push rod assembly into rocker arm socket and lower end of push rod into alignment with tappet screw.
3.
Turn adjusting screw out to meet push rod.
4.
See ADJUSTING TAPPETS section preceding, to properly adjust push rod tappets and to complete reassembly .
Removal 1.
Push spring retainer (7) down and remove spring keepers (2).
3·23
CYLINDER AND PISTON REMOVAL (Figure 3·21) 1.
Strip motorcycle as described in STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR ENGINE REPAIR, Steps 1·11. Remove cylinder head as described in CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAl.
6.
Carefully pull cylinder (2) over piston (7). Do not allow piston (7) to fall against crankcase. Discard cylinder base gasket (3).
7.
Spread piston rings (4) outward until they clear grooves in piston (7) and lift off.
8.
Remove and discard piston pin retaining rings (5). use an INTERNAL RETAINING RING PLIERS. Part No. HO·96215·49. Be extremely careful not to over expand or twist rings, or to damage piston surface
9.
Support piston (7) and tap out piston pin (6) using a suitable drift NOTE
It may be necessary to heat piston to remove pin.
10.
Remove piston pin bushing (8) from connecting rod if necessary, See CLEANING AND INSPECTION.
CLEANING AND INSPECTION
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Cylinder base nut (4) Cylinder Cylinder base gasket Set piston rings Piston pin retaining ring (2)
6. Piston pin 7. Piston 8. Piston pin bushing
1.
Soak cylinder and piston in GUNK HYDRO·SEAL until deposits are soft, then clean with a brush. Blow off loosened carbon and dirt particles and wash in solvent.
2.
Clean oil passage with compressed air.
3.
Clean piston ring grooves with a piece of compres· sion ring ground to a chisel shape.
4.
Examine piston pin to see that it is not pitted or scored.
5.
Check piston pin bushing to see that it is not loose in connecting rod, grooved, pitted or scored. A piston pin, properly fitted, is a light hand press fit in piston and has .0008 in. clearance in connecting rod upper bushing. If piston pin to bushing free fit exceeds .002 in. replace worn parts. See CON· NECTING ROD BUSHINGS.
6.
Examine piston and cylinder for cracks, burnt spots, grooves and gouges.
7.
Check rods for up and down play in lower bearings. When up and down play is detected, lower bearing should be refitted. This requires removing and disassembling engine crankcase.
9. Connecting rod
Figure 3·21. Cylinder & Piston
2.
Clean crankcase around base of cylinder to prevent dirt from entering crankcase while removing cylinder,
3.
Turn engine over until one piston (7) is at bottom of its stroke.
4.
Remove cylinder base nuts (1).
5.
Carefully raise cylinder (2) just enough to permit placing a rag over crankcase opening. This will prevent dirt and other foreign matter from entering crankcase. NOTE
If cylinder does not come loose on removal of nuts (1), tap lightly with rawhide hammer. Never try to pry
cylinder up.
REFINISHING CYLINDER Measure pistons and cylinder to determine if they are worn to the point where cylinders must be rebored and oversize pistons installed.
3·25
NOTE Inside and outside micrometers used for piston to cylinder fitting should be calibrated to ensure accurate readings.
Measuring Cylinder Bore 1.
Mount Ihe cylinder in TORQUE PLATE, Pari No. HD·34198, as shown in Figure 3·22.
2.
Take cylinder bore measurement in ring palh, slarl· ing aboul 112 in. from top of cylinder measuring from front to rear and then side to side. Record readings.
3.
Repeal measurement at cenler and then bottom of ring path. Record readings. This process will deler· mine if cylinder is out·of·round or "egged" and will also show any cylinder taper or bulge. See WEAR LIMITS.
4.
If cylinder is not scuffed or scored and pislon clearance is within service limit, it is not necessary to rebore for an oversized piston. If desired, a new piston and rings may be installed to reduce clear· ance for quieter operation.
5.
If piston clearance is more than service limit, cylinders should be rebored and lo r honed to next standard oversize and refitted with the correspond· ing piston and rings.
Pistons are measured front to rear at base of piston skirt as shown. Pistons are cam ground to an egg or oval shape so only front and rear surfaces touch cylinder wall. LATE 1985 MODELS XL model vehicles, starting with crankcae number 785 306029, manufactured after November 1, 1984 have a new late style pistonlring package. These pistons have a cam ground, barrel shape and must be measured 90° from the piston pin and .890 in. above the bottom of the piston.
Fitting Cylinder to Piston See SPECIFICATIONS for piston to cylinder clearance. For acceptable service wear of piston to cylinder clearance see SERVICE WEAR LIMITS. Pistons for 1979 to Early 1985 models are available in the following oversizes: .010, .020, .030, .040, .050, .060 and .070. in. Oversize pistons have their size stamped on the head. For example: 10, 20, etc. Pistons for Late 1985 models are available in oversize .005, .010, .020, .030 and .040. Cylinders can be refinished oversize with a hone only, or with a boring bar followed by a finishing hone. In general practice, only cylinders not scored and not badly worn are refinished entirely with a hone. Cylinders badly worn or deeply scored are first rebored to nearly the required oversize and then are finish·honed to exact size.
Figure 3·22. Measuring Cylinder Bore
Measuring Piston (Figure 3·23) 1979· EARLY 1985 MODELS 3·26
NOTE It is essential that cylinder be mounted in TORQUE PLATE, Part No. HD·34198 for measurements, boring, honing, or other machining operations, to prevent distortion of the cylinder. Exact final size of cylinder bore is determined by size of piston to be used in that cylinder. Measure piston diameter accurately, as described previously and then add desired piston clearance (.003 .. 004 in.). This will equal the exact final size to which cylinder bore should
be ref inished . Example: a .010 in. overs ize piston measures 3.1963 in ., adding .003 in . (desired clearance) equals 3.1993 in . (finish-honed size).
1983 to Early 1985 Instal l dots towards top
When cylinder requires reboring to beyond .070 in. oversize to clean up , the oversize limit has been exceeded and cyl i nder must be replaced . Cylinder walls MUST be finish -honed with a No. 280 grit hone prior to installing the late style piston . The late style pistons are a retrofit for earlier XL model vehicles. Part numbers for the late style pistons, rings and piston, and cylinders are:
SIZE
PISTON & RINGS
RINGS
Standard .0050.8. .0tO 0.8. .0200.S. .0300.S. .0400.S.
22251-83A 22252-85 22253-83A 22254-83A 22255-83A 22256·83A
22260·83 22265·83 22261·83 22262·83 22263·83 22264-83
PISTON & CYLINDER Fronl-16464-73C Rear·16465-73C 2747
late 1985
Second ring - install dot toward top
NOTE The same piston may be used if cylinder bore was not changed, unless it is scuffed or grooved. However, replace rings and hone the cylinder walls with a No. 280 grit hone to facilitate ring seating.
FITTING PISTON RINGS 1979-1982 piston rings are of two types : compression (plain face) and oil control. The two compression rings are positioned in the two upper piston ring grooves, chamfered side up . The oil control ring is a full width , slotted ring, having a spring expander. See Figure 3·24.1983 to early 1985 piston rings include a beveled barrel-faced, moly-filled top ring, a taper·faced second ring and a three·piece oil control ri ng with two chrome plated rai ls and a corrugated expander. Ri ngs for 1979 to early 1985 models are available in the following overs izes to fit standard oversize pistons: .010, .020, .030, .040, .050, .060 and .070 in . See Figure 3-24. late 1985 piston rings include a molyfilled top ring, a taper-faced second ring, and a threepiece oil control ring with two chrome plated rails and a corrugated expander. The second ring must be installed with dot toward top . late 1985 rings are available in oversizes .005, .010, .020, .030 and .040. Piston rings must be properly fitted to piston and cylinder: 1.
2.
See Figure 3·25. Check for proper side clea rance with thickness gauge, as shown. See SPECIF ICATIONS fo r tolerance. See Figure 3·26. Place piston in cylinder about 1/2
Oil control rings Top ring - install either sIde up
Figure 3-24. Piston Rings
in. from top. Set ri ng to be checked squarely against piston as shown. Ch eck end gap with thickness gauge . See SPECIFICATIONS for to lerance.
NOTE End gap may be increased by filing with a fine -cut-file. See Figure 3-27 and 3·28. Use a piston ring expander too l to slip compress ion rings over piston into their respective grooves. Be extremely careful not to over expand or twist rings, or damage piston surface when installing rings. Install rings so end gaps of adjacent rings are 90° apart minimum . Ring gaps are not to be within 10° of the thrust face centerline. 3·27
.."
CONNECTING ROD BUSHING (Figure 3-29) When connecting rod bushing is worn to excessive pin clearance (.002 in. or more) It must be replaced or fitted lor an oversized pin. NOTE
FItting 8 rod bushing for en oversized pin (.004 in. over· s/zed) a/so requires reaming the piston oversized. It Is generally more economical to replace the bushing so a
standard pin can be used.
Figure 3-25. Measuring Ring Clearance in Groove
1.
Secure connecting rod with ADD CLAMPING FIXTURE , Part No. HD·95952.J3.
2.
Remove worn bushing and Install new bush ing with a BUSHING INSTALLATION TOOL, Part No. HO-95970-32A.
On early 1982 and earlier mOdels, when starti ng All1
Stagger ring gaps at these locations Front
Rear Figure 3·28. Positioning Ring End Gap new bushing be sure to position oil slot so it will align with 011 slot In connecting rod .
Figure 3-26. Measuring Ring End Gap
,.
On late 1982 and later models, drill 3/16 In. hole through connecting rod oil hole Into bushing.
...
,
Figure 3·27. Installing Piston Rings
3·28
Figure 3·29. Installing New Piston Pin Bushing
3.
4.
Clean up and size bushing to .001 10 .0005 under· size using REAMER Part No. HO·94800-26.
2.
Press piston pin Into place. Piston pin should be a light hand press at 70-F.
SizIng bushing with less than .0008 In. clearance can resulilo a seized pin andlor bushing loosening in rOd .
3.
For 1979 to Early 1985 style pistons, use an INTERNAL LOCK RING PLIERS, Part No. HD·96215~9, to install new retaining rings. Install retaining rings with sharp edge oul.
Hone bushing to final size using CONNECTING ROO BUSHING HONE, Part No. HD·35102. Drive hone with an electric drill and work for a cross· hatch pattern of approximately 60-. Use a hone or bushing. Clean bushing bore with cleaning solvent.
For Late 1983 style pistons, use PISTON PIN RE· TAINING RING INSTALLER, Part No. HD·34623. Retaining ring end gap must be Installed away from piston slot at the bottom of the piston. Direct gap at least 90- away from piston bottom.
ASSEMBLING CYLINDER AND PISTON (Figure 3·30)
CAUTION
Always use new retaining rings. Make sure retaining ring groove Is clean and ring seats tirmly In groove. If It doesn't, discard the ring. Never use a retaining ring On· eluding a new one) If it has been Installed and then removed for any reason. A loosely Installed ring will come out of piston groove, resulting in damage to piston and cylinder.
Figure 3·30. Installing Cylinder Over Piston 1.
Install piston assembly over connectIng rod. In· slall wlth Intake valve pocket toward Intake valve, when head Is installed.
4.
Lubricate cylinder walls and piston with engine oii.
5.
Turn engine over until crank pin is at top center.
6.
Install new cylinder base gasket.
7.
Position RING COMPRESSOR, Part No. HD·96333· 51B, over piston rings and slide cylinder over assembly.
8.
Remove ring compressor, rotate cylinder so push rod slots tine up with tappet guides and slide over mounting bolts.
9.
Install cylinder base nuts and lighten to 25-35 fI·lbs torque.
10.
Assemble cylinder head and remaining parts of engine as Indicated in CYLINDER HEAD IN· STALLATION.
3·29
GEARCASE 2.
OIL PUMP
During next 180· of rotation, the size of the cavity decreases forcing oil Inio Ihe outlet.
See Figure 3·32. Gravity fed oil from the oil tank enters the pump through fitting (4). II is forced by gerotor sel (13) Into valve (11).
General (Figure 3·31) The all pump consists of two gerolar pumps, feed and scavenge (return), housed In one pump body. The feed pump forces all to the engine while the scavenge pump collects and returns oil to the lank. A gerolar type pump has two parts, an inner and an outer gerolor. The inner gerolar always has one less tooth than the outer gerolor. Both gerolors are mounted on fixed centers but are offset to each other. In a gerolar pump, oil is transferred from inlet to outlet as it Is trapped between the rotating inner and outer gerolars. The illustration shows the principle of gerolar operation : 1.
During first 180- of rotallon, the cavity between In· ner and outer gerolars gradually increases in size until it reaches its maximum size, equivalent to the full volume of the " missing tooth." The gradually enlarging cavity creates a vacuum into which oil flows from the inlet.
Outer
Note Valve (11) is a check valve that contains a spring loaded cup which maintains 4 to 6 psi pressure. The check valve must always be installed in pump with arrow on side of valve pointing in direction of lIow. From valve (11), oil exits pump under pressure into crankcase. 0il pressure Is sensed by oil pressure switch (26).
0il passages within the engine are shown in Figure 3·5. Return oil from the flywheel compartment is drawn back inlo the pump and is forced by gerolor set (20, Figure 3-32) back to the oil tank. Spring (17) bears against plates (15 and 18) to maintain zero side clearance on both gerolor sets (13 and 20).
011 drawn Inlo cavity between teeth
011 forced Trapped 011 Inner gerotor
outlet Figure 3·31. Principle of Gerolor Operation
3·31
r I I
20
©
19
(?)-18 Gg-17 8
@J
16
,~:#-
15
8 &>;; 0: ,
13
4 "
~C)
9.---0
,
5. Fitting, return
10. O·rlng 11. Check valve 12.0·rlng 13. Gerolor set, feed (thin) 14. Gear shaft pin
6. Cover
15. Outer plate
1. Screw (4)
2. lockwasher (4) 3. Washer (4)
4. Filling, tee
7. O-ring
16. Outer plate seal
8. Bushing 9. Roll pin
17. Spring washer 18. Inner plate
19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26.
7 _________ 6
Retaining ring Gerotor set, return (thick) Gear shaft pin Gear shaft Gasket Body Bushing 011 pressure switch
Figure 3-32. Oil Pump The oil pump seldom needs servicing. Before disassembling pump because of no oil pressure, be absolutely certain that all possible related malfunctions have been eliminated. 1,
Make sure all oillln8 clamps are tight.
2.
Check oil level and condition of oit in oil tank. If oil is diluted, pressure will be affected. In freezing
3·32
weather, the oil feed line may clog with Ice and sludge preventing circulation of oil. 3.
Check for a grounded oil pressure switch wire or a faulty switch if 011 indicator light fails to go out with engine running.
4.
See ENGiNE LUBRICATION foradditionallnforma· tion.
9.
Removal And Disassembly (Figure 3·32) Oil pump can be removed while engine is in frame and without removing gearcase cover.
1.
Disconnect and tag all all lines and pressure switch wire.
2.
Carefully remove four screws (1) thai secure pump to crankcase, With screws removed, pump will drop. Discard gasket (23).
3.
Lift cover (6) off body (24). Remove and discard D-ring (7).
4.
Slide both pieces of feed gerolor set (13) off gear shaft (22). Use a long.nosed pliers to pull pin (14) out of gear shaft (22).
5.
With pin (14) removed the following parts will be free for removal: outer plale (15), spring washer (17), inner plale (18) and outer gerolar of scavenge gerolar set (20).
6.
Use an EXTERNAL LOCK RING PLIERS, Part No. HD·95017-61, to remove and discard relaining ring (19). Inner gerolor, of the scavenge gerotor set (20), will now be free for removal.
7.
Use a long-nosed pliers to pull pin (21) out of gear shaft (22). Gear shaft (22) can now be removed.
8.
Press seal (16) from outer plate (15) and discard.
Cleaning and Inspection 1.
Clean ali parts In cleaning solvent. Blowout holes and oil passages with compressed air.
2.
Inspect check valve (11). The spring loaded cup within valve must be free to move and must return to its closed, seated position. If valve is damaged or if improper operation is observed replace valve.
3.
Inspect spring (17), replace if fingers are broken off.
4.
See Figure 3-33. Inspect both gerolar sets for wear. Mesh pieces of each set together as shown. Use a feeler gauge to determine clearance.
.004 In. max.
Push check valve (11) from hOusing (24) with a 5/16 i n. diameter rod. Remove and discard O-rings (10 and 12).
~
Feed and scavenge gerolor sets
~~~~~~~~I:===-:: .020 x 45° chamfer or .020 radius
It;;
.015 radius max. (same radius on oil pump body) ~
Figure 3·33. Gerotor Wear limits
~
No chamfer
I
.010 radius max • undercut for clearance (same under-cut on oil pump body)
Oil pump cover
Early 1983 and earlier
/
Oil pump cover
Late 1983
Figure 3-34. Gerotor Oil Pump 3·33
The maximum allowable c learance between gerotors is .004 in. If clearance exceeds this dimension replace gerotors as a set. Early 1983 and earlier outer gerotors have chamfered outer edges . Late 1983 and later outer gerotors do not have chamfers. Refer to Figure 3-34. The late 1983 and later pump bodies are undercut for ouler gerolor clearance. Either early or late style outer gerotors may be used with the late style undercut pump bodies and covers. However, only the chamfered outer gerolors may be used with the early style pump bodies and covers. WARNING
Assembly 1.
NOTE Liberally coat all moving parts with engine oil, to ensure easy assembly and smooth beginning operation. 2.
Insert inner gerotor, of the scavenge gerolor set (20), over gear shaft . Lock in place with a new retain ing ring (19) using an EXTERNAL LOCK RING PLIERS, Part No. HD-95017-61 , to install.
3.
Install a new seal (16) into outer plate (15). Install so lip of seal will be toward feed gerotors (13).
Use of late style ouler gerotors in early style oil pump bodies and covers could cause the oil pump to bind.
5.
6.
7.
8.
Measure thickness of feed gerotors with a micrometer. If they are not the same thickness, replace as a set. Place feed gerotors in cover. Both gerotors must be the same height, if not, cover is warped and must be replaced.
NOTE Use Loctite LOCK N'SEAL ADHESIVE to secure seal (16) into outer plate (15). 4.
Place outer gerotor scavenge set (20).
5.
Position inner plate (18) into case and line up slot with pin (9). Place spring washer (17) on inner plate (18), with fingers away from inner plate (18).
inner to
complete
6.
Carefully push outer plate (15) over gear shaft (22). Line up slot in plate with pin (9). Install seal side in· ward.
7.
Inspect gear shaft (22, F igure 3-32), fil in bushings (8 and 25), clearance should be .0005 in. Rep lace bushings if worn, scored or damaged .
Use a long·nose pliers to push pin (14) into gear shaft (22). Place feed gerotor set (13) over gear shaft (22).
8.
Install a new D-ring (10) over check valve (11) and push into place. Install with arrow pointing in direction of oil flow . Place a new D·ring (12) into groove between valve and pump bOdy.
Bushing (8) should be pressed in .120 in. below surface.
9.
Install a new O-ring (7) into groove in cover (6) and place onto pump bOdy.
Check gear shaft (22) teeth for wear or damage. Replace if necessary.
10.
Coat a new gasket (23) with a non-hardening gasket sealer and place into position.
Straightedge (scale)
Feeler gauge
Cover Figure 3·35. Measuring Gerotor Height
3·34
over
See F igure 3·35. Place feed gerotors in cover. Us· ing a straightedge and feeler gauge measure the distance gerotors extend above cover surface. The dimension should be .001·.011 in . If dimension is more than .011 in . or less than .001 in . replace cover.
Bushing (25) should be pressed in .100 in. below surface.
9.
Install gear shaft (22) through housing (24) and careful ly, with a long-nosed pliers, push pin (21) into p lace.
11.
Secure pump to gearcase with screws (1) and hard· ware as shown. Tighten to 90-110 in-Ibs torque.
12.
Reinstall oil lines as removed. Use new clamps.
13.
Loosely install oil pressure switch and prime pump per instructions following.
Priming Oil Pump
Excessive tappet-gu ide clearance is corrected by fitt ing a new tappet andlor guide. NOTE
Inside and outside micrometers used for measuring tap pets and tappet guides must be calibrated to ensure ac· curate readings.
3. Check tappet roller free play. Roller clearance on pin should be within the .0005·.0012 in. wear limit. Recommended service practice is tappet replacement. See SPECIFICATIONS.
Oil pump must be primed whenever oil lines have been removed or pump has been d isassembled. 1.
Remove pressure switch wire then loosen switch and oil tank filler plug.
2.
Start engine and allow about 2 oz. of oil to be forced through pressure switch threads.
3. Stop engine, tighten pressure switch and install wire. Tighten nut securing wire to 4-10 in-Ibs torque. 4.
Check oil tank for correct oi l level.
NOTE A tappet rol/er kit (6) Is available to rebuild a tappet assembly; however, roller must turn freely on needles and have correct side play after new roller pin is riveted to tappet.
4.
Check tappet roller end clearance. Wear limit Is .008-.012 in.
5.
If tappet ad just ing screw is damaged , worn, eggshaped or pitted , It must be replaced. This will en· sure accurate tappet adjustment.
VALVE TAPPETS AND GUIDES
Assembly
Disassembly 1.
Clean all dirt from around crankcase and blow loose particles from area with compressed air.
1.
Assemble adjusting screw and nut and install screw on tappet (4).
2.
Remove push rod assembly. See REMOVING AND INSTALLING PUSH ROD.
2.
Liberally coat tappet assembly and especi all y roller needles with engine oil, to ensure smooth beginn ing operation.
3.
See Figure 3·36. Remove tappet guide screw (1) and guide (3).
3.
Apply rubber lubricant to new a-ring (5) and install on guide (3), carefully seating the erri ng in Its groove.
4.
Insert the tappet Into the bottom of the guide. Holding tappet up to extreme limit of travel, position guide and tappet assembly over gearcase. Rotate tappel so It will properly align with cam and gu ide will align with mount ing hole.
4.
Remove and discard tappet guide o·ring (5). NOTE
If tappet guide does not come loose after removing screw, tap lightly with rawhide hammer. Never tl}' to pry tappet guide out. Mark all components to ensure reinstallation into same location. This will ensure an even wear pattern between tappet guide and cam surface.
Cleaning And Inspection 1.
2.
CAUTION If tappet is not correctly positioned within guide (roller crosswise to guide and cam) serious damage may result when assembly Is Inserted into crankcase. 5.
Clean all parts thoroughly in solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Inspect valve tappets for excessive clearance in guide (3). Clearance should be .001-.002 in. (WEAR LIMIT). A gauge should be used to accurately measure tappet guide inner diameter.
Carefully press guide assembly into gearcase. CAUTION
Tappet guides are a soft die cast aluminum. Be ex· tremely careful not to damage guide while pressing. 6.
Install screw (1) and tighten to 8-14 ft-Ibs torque.
7.
Check free movement of tappet in guide.
3·35
11
0I 19
- - ~----- - - - -~~" ~ ~-V
~. I
~ ri-'
18
8
J'
20
9 \,
22
<! / 5
1-8
..
O~
,,
6
,
I I
I I
I
/ 2
"-~-
11
10
13
11,,~
11. Cam gear plate (2) 12. Idler gear shaft bushing (2)
1. Tappet guide screw 2. Tappet screw with nut
13. Idler gear
3. Tappet guide 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
Tappet and roller Tappet guide Q·rlng Tappet roller kit Rear cylinder exhaust cam gear Rear cylinder Intake cam gear Front cylinder Intake cam gear Front cylinder exhaust cam gear
14. Gearcase cover gasket I S. Flywheel shaft pinion gear 16. Nut and lockwasher 17. Oil pump drive gear 18. Cam gear needle roller bearing (4)
Figure 3-36. Gearcase and Tappet -
3·36
"
19. Rear exhaust cam gear shaft bushing 20. Cam gear and timer shaft bushing 21. Pinion gear shaft bushing 22. Front intake cam gear shaft bushing 23. Front exhaust cam gear shaft bushing
1979 to Early 1984
6
\ 23. Screw (2) 26. O'ring 24. Spacer (2) 27. Plug 25. Oiler manifold
1. Tappet guide screw
2. Tappet screw with nul 3. Tappet guide 4. Tappet and roller 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
Tappet guide a·rlng Crankcase half Rear cylinder exhaust cam gear Rear cylinder Intake cam gear Front cylinder intake cam gear
10. Front cylinder exhaust cam gear 11. Cam gear plate (2) 12. Front Intake cam g8ar shaft bushing 13. Front exhaust cam gear
shaft bushing 14. Gearcase cover gasket 15. Flywheel shaft pinion gear 16. Nut and lockwasher
Figure 3·37. Gearease and Tappet -
17.011 pump drive gear 18. Cam gear needle roller bearing (4) 19. Rear exhaust cam gear 20. Cam gear and timer shaft bushing 21. Pinion gear shalt bushing 22. Breather assembly
Late 1984 and 1985
3·37
GEARCASE COVER AND CAM GEARS
ON MODELS WITH CAM GEAR OILER: 12.
Straighten the cam gear oiler clamps and remove the two screws (23) and spacers (24) .
13.
Remove the socket head pipe plug (27) from the gearcase.
14.
Inert a 1/4 in. pin punch in the plug hole and tap the oiler out of the crankcase.
General Carefully read the complete gearcase section before any serv ice work is begun. For the gearcase components to operate al their opt imum, all components must be properly fitted and malched. Changing one component can affect many others . It is important to know and understand all inspect ion procedures and how components interact.
Disassem bly 1.
Thoroughly clean area around gearcase c ove r and lappets. Blow loose dirt from crankcase with compressed air.
2.
Remove any parts thai will interfe re with gearcase disassembly (i.e., exhaust pipe, footres t , air cleaner, brake pedal, etc.).
3.
Remove push rods. See PUSH ROD REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION .
4.
Remove tappets and guides, see VALVE TAPPETS AND GUIDES .
5.
Check for minimum cam gear end play. See ASSEMBLY procedure. Record readings.
6.
Remove ignition system, SECTION 7.
7.
Place a pan under gearcase to collect oil. Remove cover screws and generator mounting screws. Carefully remove cover. Discard old gasket.
Cleaning and Inspection 1.
Thoroughly scrub gearcase compartment, cover and gears in solvent to remove oi l and carbon deposits.
2.
Blowout all cover oil passages and bushings with compressed air.
3.
Clean old gasket material from case and cover faces, with cleaning solvent.
4.
Clean the valve breather tube and baffle with SO lvent and dry with compressed aire. Also blowout the bleed back passage in the cover with compressed air.
5.
Inspect the valve for cuts, tears, deterioration or other damage. Replace valve , if damaged.
6.
Check the baffle and tube for cracks and other damage. Replace damaged parts.
7.
If gearcase is equipped with cam gear oiler, check the a-ring (26) for damage. Replace if necessary. Check that oil flows without restriction through the oiler (25).
NOTE ff cover does not come loose on removal of screws, tap
lightly with a rawhide hammer. Never try to pry cover off.
8.
2
3
4
7
On 1979 to early 1984 models, see Figu res 3-36 and 3-37. Remove cam gears (7, 8, 9 and 10, Figure 3-37), cam gear plates (11) and shims . Discard shims. On late 1984 and 1985 models, see Figures 3-37 and 3-39. Remove cam gears (7, 8, 9 and 10, Figure 3-37) and cam gear plate (11). Carefully mark each component to ensure correct replacement.
9.
Free idler gear (13) by lifting generator up and away from crankcase.
10.
Remove nut and lockwasher (16), then slide pinion gear (15) and oil pump drive gear (17) from pinion shaft.
11.
On late 1984 and 1985 models, refer to Figure 3-37. Remove the breather baffle, then pry the breather tube from the gearcase cover. Separate the diaphragm valve from the tube.
3-38
5 1. Rear exhaust cam gear 2. Rear intake cam gear 3. Front intake cam gear 4. Front exhaust cam gear 5. Pinion gear 6. Generator drive gear 7. Idler gear (has no timing mark)
Figure 3-38_ Timing Gears -
1979 - Early 1984
Cam Gear Selection (Figure 3-38 and 3-39) NOTE
"P" type cams were used in 1979 production and "Q" type cams for 1980 and later production. These "P" and "Q" type cams must not be Intermixed. When replacing cams use the same type cam as removed. Cam gears must be properly sized and fitted to each other to ensure quiet and smooth operation.
1.
5
See Figure 3-40. Measure cam gears with a micrometer over .105 In. diameter GAUGE PINS, Part No. HO-95632-79. Compare gear diameter, as measured, with sizes on cam gear chart. A worn gear may be coded red, but may actually measure a blue code.
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Figure 3·39. Timing Gears -
1979· EARLY 1984 GEAR NO.
Rear exhaust cam gear Rear intake cam gear Front Intake cam gear Front exhaust cam gear Pinion gear
1
2
3 Rear Intake Outer
Late 1984 and 1985
4
5
Front Intake
Front Ex haust Inner
Front Exhaust Outer
•
COlor Code
Rear Exhaust
Rear In ta ke Inner
Pinion
Idler
Brown
1.8893 1.8903
1.8953 1.8943
2.3902 2.3912
1.8893 1.8903
1.8953 1.8943
2.3902 2.3912
1.2681 1.2671
3.0223 3.0213
Blue
1.8903 1.8913
1.8943 1.8933
2.3912 2.3922
1.8903 1.8913
1.8943 1.8933
2.3912 2.3922
1.2671 1.2661
3.0213 3.0203
Red
1.8913 1.8923
2.3932 2.3942
Green
1.8933 1.8943
1.8913 1.8903
2.3942 2.3952
1.8933 1.8943
1.8913 1.8903
2.3942 2.3952
1.2661 1.2651 1.2651 1.2&11 1.2641 1.2631
3.0203 3.0193
1.8923 1.8933
1.8933 1.8923 1.8923 1.8913
2.3922 2.3932
1.8923 1.8933
2.3922 2.3932 2.3932 2.3942
1.8913 1.8923
White
1.8933 1.8923 1.8923 1.8913
Yellow
1.8943 1.8953
1.8903 1.8893
2.3952 2.3962
1.8943 1.8953
1.8903 1.8893
2.3952 2.3962
1.2631 1.2621
Black
1.8953 1.8963
1.8893 1.8883
2.3962 2.3972
1.8953 1.8963
1.8893 1.8883
2.3962 2.3972
1.2621 1.2611
3.0193 3.0183 3.0183 3.0173 3.0173 3.0163 3.0163 3.0153
LATE 1984 AND 1985
GEAR NO.
2
1
Color Code
Rear Exhaust
Rear Intake Inner
Brown
1.8893 1.8903 1.8903 1.8913 1.8913 1.8923 1.8923 1.8933 1.8933 1.8943 1.8943 1.8953 1.8953 1.8963
1.8953 1.8943 1.8943 1.8933 1.8933 1.8923 1.8923 1.8913 1.8913 1.8903 1.8903 1.8893 1.8893 1.8883
Blue
Red White Green Yellow Black
3
4
5
Rear Intake Outer
front Intake
Front Exhaust
Pinion
2.3902 2.3912 2.3912 2.3922 2.3922 2.3932 2.3932 2.3942 2.3942 2.3952 2.3952 2.3962 2.3962 2.3972
1.8893 1.8903 1.8903 1.8913 1.8913 1.8923 1.8923 1.8933 1.8933 1.8943 1.8943 1.8953 1.8953 1.8963
1.8953 1.8943 1.8943 1.8933 1.8933 1.8923 1.8923 1.8913 1.8913 1.8903 1.8903 1.8893 1.8893 1.8883
1.2681 1.2671 1.2671 1.2661 1.2661 1.2651 1.2651 1.2641 1.2641 1.2631 1.2631 1.2621 1.2621 1.2611 3·39
NOTE
Prior to changing any cam gears check gear shaft fit within corresponding bushings. Worn bushings can cause excessive backlash. See REPLACING NEEDLE BEARINGS AND BUSHINGS for measurement procedures. 2.
A size increase of cam gears 1 and 3 may be necessary to correct excessive gear backlash. In· crease gears 1 and 3 by one color code, above what gears measured. Example: Gear 1 may have originally been coded red but now measures lor a blue code. An increase 01 one color code would mean replacing with a new red coded gear.
3.
Reassemble gearcase, recheck gear backlash and record readings.
4.
A second size increase of gears 1 and 3 may be necessary, but no more than two size increases should be made before also increasing size of gear 5.
5.
Reassemble and run engine checking for noise. Gear whine or howl indicates gears are too tight. Affected gears must be reduced in size. Rattling indicates there is still excessive gear backlash.
Needle bearings are press fit into crankcase. 1.
Inspect each needle bearing against its corresponding cam gear shaft. Correct fit should be .0005·.003 in. loose.
2.
Measure the outer diameter of each shaft. Measurement should fall between .6860 in. and .6865 in. Worn cam shafts should be replaced.
3.
Recheck clearance between new shaft and needle bearing to determine if bearing will also need replacement.
4.
See Figure 3·41 or 3-42. Use BEARING PULLER, Part No. HD-95760-69, to pull worn needle bearing from crankcase.
5.
See Figure 3·43 or 3·44. Use BEARING INSTALLATION TOOL, Part No. HD·97273·60, to install new needle bearing. To avoid permanent damage to bearing, always press on printed side. Press bearing flush to .020 in. below surface.
NOTE
If crankcase is equipped with a cam gear oiler, tighter gear fitment is possible. With tighter gear fitment, a slight gear whine is normal and does not indicate gears are too tightly fitted.
Figure 3·41 . Pulling Gearcase Bearings 1979 . Earl y 1984
Figure 3·40. Measuring Cam Gear Size
Replacing Needle Bearings and Bushings NEEDLE BEARINGS 3·40
Figure 3·42. Pulling Gearcase Bearings Late 1984 and 1985
2_
See Figure 3·45. Use a BUSHING AND BEARING PULLER, Part No. HD-95760-69, to remove bushings from gearcase cover.
3.
Use a smooth surfaced disc or plate sligh tly larger than bushing flange when pressing bushing into position. Apply a few drops of Loctite STUD'N BEARING MOUNT, to outside diameter of bushing before installation on 1979 to early 1984 models. Press bushing until flange is tight against surface. On late 1984 and 1985 models, press the new bushing in until it stops on the boss. Drill a dowel pin hole 9132 in. deep using a No. 31 drill bit.
NOTE
Figure 3·43. Installing Cam Gear (1979 - Early 1984)
If bushings were previously pinned in the cover, be sure the new dowel pin hole is bored 118 in. to either side 01
the original dowel pin hole.
Press in the dowel pin making sure it Is no more than .020 in. below the bushing surface. If the pin is install ed too deep, it will not prevent the bushing from rotating in the cover. Peen the bushing to stake the pin in place. 4.
After a new bushing is installed. it must be reamed to correct size_ All bushings except idler gear must be line reamed usi ng the corresponding bearing In crankcase bushing to guide reamer. If the crankcase is not disassembled use another right side crankcase half. Special REAMERS are avai lable for the rear cylinder intake cam shaft bushing, Part No. HD-94803-67, and the pinion gear shaft bushing, Part No. HD·94812-77. Use a standard 11116 in. diameter reamer for all other cam shaft bushings.
Figure 3·44. Installing Cam Gear (Late 1984 and 1985)
Crankcase and gearcase cover must be assembled while bushings are being line reamed. Turn ream clockwise in bushing until It bottoms. Continue to turn reamer clockwise as It is drawn out.
BUSHINGS
On 1979 to early 1984 model s, ream the idler shalt bushings with case separated. Use REAMER, Part No. HD-94806·57. Carefully align reamer and turn it clockwise until it bottoms.
Bushings (12, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, Figure 3-36) and bushings (12,13,19,20,21, Figure 3-37) are a press fit in to crankcase and gearcase cover. 1.
Inspect each bushing against its corresponding cam gear shaft, idler gear shaft or pin ion gear shaft. Correct fit should be: Idler Gear Shaft (1979-early 1984 models) .....0005-.00 1 in. loose Cam Gear Shafts. . .........0005-.002 in. loose ... _..... 0005-.0015 in. loose Pinion Gear Shaft Service wear limits have an expanded range_ See SPECIFICATION S.
NOTE
After reaming check shaft fit In new bushing. It may be necessary to make a second pass with reamer to attain proper fit. 6.
Clean all metal chips from case and blowout all 011 passages with compressed air. 3-41
Assembly (Figures 3-36 -and 3-37) 1.
Models with cam gear oiler: a. Install the pipe plug (27) to the crankcase using teflon thread sealant. b. Inslall the oiler manifold (25) to the crankcase as shown. NOTE
The oiler must be installed so that the oiler mounting tabs extend from behind the oiler tube.
3.
On late 1984 and 1985 models, assemble the diaphragm valve to the tube, then press the tube into the cover and Inslalilhe baffle.
4.
Install cover with a new dry gasket (14). Tighten all screws evenly to 80-110 in·lbs torque, except for oil filter mounting bracket on late 1984 and 1985 models. Tighten filter bracket bolls to 13-16 ft-Ibs.
5.
Turn engine over until number one cam gear lobe is facing up, as viewed through tappet guide hole. With a screwdriver, pry cam gear toward cover.
6.
Measure gap between gear plate and shalt shoulder with a feeler gauge. This is the cam gear end play. Minimum cam gear end play should be .005 in. except rear intake gear which should be .004 in.
C. Place two drops of LOCTITE REMOVABLE THREAD LOCKER 242 (blue) on the screw threads. Install the screw (23) through the oiler clamp and into the spacer (24). Thread the screw in to the crankcase and lighten using 5 to 7 inIbs torque. Repeat for the other screw.
2.
For specifications of componenls that are not new see SERVICE WEAR LIMITS.
d. Bend a corner of each clamp to form a lock tab over the aligning screw flat.
7.
Install tappets and guides. See VALVE TAPPETS AND GUIDES.
Assemble oil pump drive gear (17) to pinion gear shaft. Inslall pinion gear (15) with beveled edge towards crankcase. Timing marks on gear and shaft must be aligned. Assemble lockwasher and nut (16) to shaft. Tighten nut to 35·45 ft-Ibs torque. Bend tabs on lockwasher against flats on nut.
8.
Inslall ignition system. See SECTION 7.
9.
Install push rods and adjust tappets as described in PUSH ROD REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION and ADJUSTING TAPPETS.
10.
Reinstall any components removed to gain access to gearcase (i.e. exhaust, fool rest, air cleaner).
11.
Time Ignition system as described in SECTION 7.
Assemble cam gears (7, 8, 9, 10) case with cam plates (11). The beveled side of gear plates face toward the gears. Align timing marks on cam gears. On late 1984 and 1985 models, the front exhaust cam gear has a dimple rather than a straight timing mark_ NOTE
Liberally coat bushings, bearings, shafts and gears with engine oif, to ensure smooth beginning operation.
OIL FILTER Removal 1.
Drain oil from 011 tank.
2.
Place drain pan beneath front of engine. Remove and discard oil filter.
3.
If it Is necessary to remove oil filter bracket , disconnect and tag oit lines to bracket . Remove capscrews securing bracket.
Cleaning Wipe filter gasket contact surface of bracket with a clean cloth.
Installation
Figure 3·45. Removing Bushing from Gearcase Cover 3·42
1.
If removed, position oil filter bracket against crankcase and secure with capscrews. Tighten capscrews to 13·161t·lbs and reconnect 011 lines to the bracket using new clamps.
2.
Coal filter gasket with engine oil. Instail filter. Hand tighten Ihe filter 1/4 turn alter gasket con· tacts bracket surface.
CRANKCASE GENERAL When rod bearings, pinion shaft bearing, or sprocket shaft bearing are In need of repair, the engine must be stripped as described in STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR ENGINE REPAIR. If desired, the crankcase may slay in the chassis for repair procedures. It is recom· mended procedure to check and make repairs to cylinder heads, cylinders, gearcase and transmission at the same time.
1.
Remove cylinder heads as described in CYLINDER HEAD.
2.
Remove cylinders and pistons as described in CYLINDER.
3.
Remove clutch alternator rotor (late 1984 and 1985), and clutch release mechanism as described in CLUTCH, Section 6.
4.
Remove starter as described in STARTER, Section
5.
CHECKING FLYWHEEL END PLAY (Figure 3·46) Before completely disassembling cra nkcases it is recommended that flywheel end play be checked to determine the amount of sprocket shaft bearing wear. To check flywheel end play, the sprocket shaft nut must be tight. Do not remove or loosen sprocket. 1.
2.
5.
Alter checking flywheel end playas previously described, use TWO JAW PULLER, Part No. HD-97292-61, with two appropriately sized screws and washers to pull engine sprocket.
6.
Remove tappets, tappet guides, ignition system, gearcase cover, cam gears and generator (1979·early 1984) as described in GEARCASE.
7.
Remove oil pump as described in OIL PUMP.
Secure a dial indicator to crankcase, with indicator stem against sprocket shaft nut.
8.
Rotate flywheels and at the same time, push and pull on sprocket shaft. Read shaft travel on dial In· dicator. Shaft end play should not exceed .007 in. If end play exceeds maximum, sprocket shaft bear· ing must be replaced.
Remove front engine mounting hardware (2). Remove Ihe hardware securing Ihe rear engine mount to the frame, leaving the mount attached 10 the crankcase. Remove the crankcase from the chassis.
9.
Remove alternator stator (late 1984 and 1985) and transmission as described in TRANSMISSION DISASSEMBLY, Section 6.
10.
Remove remaining bolts securing crankcase halves together, including the rear engine mount boll.
11.
Position crankcase on work bench, gearcase side up. Tap crankcase with rawhide mailet to loosen top half and separate the halves.
12.
See Figure 3·50. Mounl the left case half and flywheel assembly on a press table, supporting crankcase on parallel bars. Press on end of sprocket shaft with arbor press until flywheel assembly is free from case half. Do not drive flywheel assembly from case half as flywheels may be knocked out of alignment. NOTE
Figure 3·46. Checking Flywheel End Play
See Figure 3-51. If it is necessary to remove either the pinion shaft bearing (5) or sprocket shaft bearing (6 & 11), proceed as follows: 13.
DISASSEMBLY (Figures 3·47 and 3·48) To completely disassemble crankcase, follow steps 1·12.
Press pinion bearing (5) from right crankcase half (1).
14.
See Figure 3-52. Pull pinion shaft ra ce (1979 - early 1981 only) with PINION RACE PULLER, Part No. HD·96030·77.
3-43
1. Crankcase 2. Front engine mounting hardware 3. Engine rear mount 4. Rear engine mounting hardware
2
Figure 3·47. Crankcase -
Mounting Hardware, 1979·1981
15.
See Figure 3-53. Use CRANKSHAFT BEARING TOOL, Part No. HD-94547-BO, to remove sprocket shaft outer races.
16.
See Figure 3-54. Pull sprocket shaft bearing with TWO JAW PULLER, Part No. HD·96015-77.
17.
See Figure 3-55. Use a pin punch or similar tool to remove lock ring-spacer. Rotate lock ring in groove so one edge covers oil hole. Insert tool through oil hole and force ring out of groove.
Except for torque values, all assembly and disassembly procedures remain unchanged for the late style commonized flywheel assemblies. late style and early style components must not be intermixed. CAUTION Intermixing late and early style components can cause permanent damage to flywheel assembly. The following figures and charts include information to identify the components.
FLYWHEELS General A commonized flywheel taper design was a running change in 1981 production. All tapers have been commonized al 6 degrees and all keys have been standardized.
3·44
Disassembly (Figure 3·56) 1.
Place flywheels in holding fixture. Remove crankpin nut (1) with FLYWHEEL NUT WRENCH, Part No. HD-94546-41. Strike left flywheel with soft
4
1. 2. 3. 4.
Crankcase Front engine mounting hardware Engine rear mount Rear engine mounting hardware
2
Figure 3·48. Crankcase -
Mounting Hardware, 1982· Early 1984
metal mallet at about 9Q degrees from crankpin hole on wheel periphery to loosen. Lift left flywheel (2) off crankpin. 2.
3.
Hold down crankpin bearing assembly (4) with a short length of pipe or tubing so connecting rods (3) may be slipped off bearings, then remove bear· ing assembly. Secure bearings (4) together in set until they are washed and refitted to crankpin. Remove pinion shaft nut (5), then tap pinion shaft (7) out of flywheel (6) and remove key (8) from shaft. Turn flywheel over in fixture.
4.
Remove crankpin nut (9), then tap crankpin (10) out of flywheel and remove key (11).
5.
Place sprocket shaft and flywheel in fixture and remove sprocket shaft nut (12). Remove sprocket shaft (13) by tapping it out of flywheel.
Cleaning and Inspection 1.
Wash all parts in solvent and blow dry with com· pressed air. Examine crankpin for wear, grooving and pitting. If the surface is at all worn, replace
3·45
1. 2. 3. 4.
Crankcase Front engine mounting hardware Engine rear mount Rear engine mounting hardware
2
Figure 3-49. Crankcase -
Mounting Hardware, Late 1984·1985
LATE STYLE
EARLY STYLE TORQUE IF REQUIRED
NOTABLE MARKING
Flywheel Sprocket Side
Rear cylinder liming mark ( =), no keyway
-
Keyway
-
Flywheel Gear fide
Single ho le oil path (See Figure 3-50)
-
Compound (2) hole oil path (See Figure 3-50)
-
C rankpi n
Oil hole 90· 10 key (See Figure 3·51)
Oil hole 110' to key (See Figure 3-51)
-
Crank Pin Nuts
'·20 in. thread, f it of thread changed
150-185 ft-Ibs
NOTABLE MARKING
TORQUE IF REQUIRED
PART
1-20 in. thread
150-175 ft-Ibs
-
Sprocket Shaft
No keyway
-
Large keyway
Gear Shaft
One piece construction
-
Two piece construction
Sprocket Shaft Nut
3/4·20 in. thread
100·120 ft·lbs
11/16·18 in. thread
100·120 ft·lbs
Gear Shaft Nut
3/4·20 in. thread
100·120 ft·lbs
11/16·18 in. thread
100·120 ft·lbs
Gear Shaft Key
Small woodruff key 1/8 in. wide x 3/8 in. long
-
Large woodruff key, 3/16 in. wide x 1/2 in. long
Crank Key
Small Woodruff key, 1/8 in. wide x 3/8 in. long
-
Large woodruff key, 1/8 in. wide x 112 in. long
Sprocket Shaft Key
Not used
-
Large woodruff key, 3/16 in. wide x 1/2 long
3·46
-
with new pin. Examine flywheel washers. If either w'asher is worn or grooved, it should be replaced. See REPLACING FLYWHEEL WASHERS. 2.
Examine connecting rod lower races. If they appear slightly grooved or shouldered where edge of bearing rollers ride, they may be lapped out and oversize bearing rollers installed. II they appear badly worn, grooved or pitted, new rods should be installed, preferably as an assembly with new bearings and crankpin.
3.
Inspect bearing lor wear, pitting discoloration, replace as required.
4.
Carefully inspect crankpin, crankpin railer and connecting rods for correct free play. See FiniNG ROD BEAR INGS to determine if oversized railers are required.
and
heat
Replacing Flywheel Washers Replace worn flywheel washers as follows: 1.
The washer is a close fit in flywheel recess and is secured originally by punching flywheel metal light against the washer at several points. It is usually necessary to drill a small hole (118 in. or smaller) at the outer edge of the washer to permit gelling a painted tool underneath to pry it out. The
Figure 3·50. PreSSing Flywheel from Crankcase
6
I
8
I
1;0
II @ol\ @fJ 7
9
1011
5'---(1 C/)-4
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Right crankcase half Left crankcase half Connecting rod and flywheel assembly Pinion rIIC. (1919 - •• rly 1981) Pinion bearing Sprocket right bearing
1. Sprocket right outer race 8. Spacer 9. Lock ring 10. Sprocket left outer race 11 . Sprocket left bearing
Figure 3·51. Crankcase and Flywheel Assembly -
Exploded View
3·41
fully, forked rod will not have necessary clea rance (side play).
hole should . only be d ril led slight ly deeper than thickness of washer, to avoid removi ng more material than necessary. 3. 2.
Before Installing a new washer, sc rape outer edge of recess, where metal was punched against origi nal washer, so new washer will seat fu lly against recess bottom. If washer does not seat
'"'
Carefully tap new washers into place and using a punch, peen metal over edge to retain washer. NOTE
If the ou tside surface of the crankpin bearing re tainer(4, Figure 3·56) appears grooved near its inside diameter; flywheel area, to the inside of the thrus t washer (15, Figure 3·56), must be pressed down flush or below the washer surface.
""
I
Figure 3·52. Pinion Shaft Inner Race Removal
Figure 3·54. Removing Sprocket Shalt Roller Race
Figure 3·53. Sprocket Shaft Outer Race Removal
3·48
Figure 3·55. Lockring Removal
,.
4
10
I I
11
/ J-n©) .~®
2
\
\
1
I
~
~ 13
.............. '4 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.
Crankpin nut 9. Crankpln nut Flywheel (left) 10. Crankpin Connecting rods 11. Crankpln key Crankpin roller & retainer set 12. Sprocket shaft nut 13. Sprocket shaft Pinion shaft nut Flywheel (right) 14. Sprocket shaft key Pinion shaft 15. Flywheel washer (2) Pinion shaft key
Figure 3-56. Flywheel and Connecting Rod -
Old, compound (2) hole aU path
Exploded View
Early style, 110 degrees to keyway Late style, 90 degrees to keyway
Crank pin hole _ _ _-\- New, single hole all path Gear shaft hole
Figure 3·58. Crankpin Oil Hole
Figure 3-57. Flywheel Gear Side Oiling Hole
Lapping Connecting Rod Races (Figure 3·59) Connecting rod lower races that are likely to clean up within range of oversize beari ng rollers and are otherwise In serviceable condition, should be trued and sized with CONNECTING ROD LAPPING ARBOR, Part No.
HO·96740·36.
1.
Clean lap before using.
2. Clamp lap into lathe chuck, carefully load lap with 1#220 grit grinding compound, mixed with oil. Ad· just lathe tei turn at approximately 150·200 rpm.
3.
Carefully slide connecting rod over lap. Adjust lap 10 a dragging but free fit in rod race.
3".
NOTE
1.
A loose lap will BELL MOUTH bearing races, so lap must be kept adjusted at all limes. 4.
Start lathe and work rod back and forth, over full lenglh of lap. Hold rod as near race end as possi路 ble.
5.
Check rod frequenlly. When rod is lapped Irue and all traces of pit marks or grooves are cleaned up, wash and blow rod dry.
6.
Repeat lapping procedure for other rod race.
7.
Bearing races should have a soft velvety appear路 ance and be free of shiny spots.
Use a micrometer to measure the outside diameter of the crank pin at its center. Use an inside micrometer or telescoping hole gauge to measure the inside diameter of the rod races. Subtract the diameter of the crank pin from the inside diameter of the bearing race. Subtract from this figure the standard allowance for bearing running fit size. This answer, divided by two will give proper roller size. To lind oversize amount 01 bearing, subtract Irom this figure the diameter of a standard roller.
EXAM PLE: The rod bearing race measures 1.6262 in. alter lapping and truing. The crank pin is slighlly worn and measures 1.2485 in. Subtract 1.2485 in. from 1.6263 In. The answer, 0.3778 in., represents the diameters of both rollers (one on each side) plus clearance for running fit (0.001 in.). The answer, 0.3768 In., is then divided by two to get the diameter 01 each oversize roller. In this case it would be 0.1884 in. To find how much oversize each roller roust be, subtract from this figure the diameter of a standard roller, or 0. 1875 in. Railers must be 0.0008 in. oversize. 2.
Install any new set of oversize rollers 10 bearing races and position on crank pin. Slip rods over bearings, If Ihey will nol fit, it is obvious rollers are 100 large and a smaller size musl be tried. If they fit and spin freely, install a larger set of rollers. Try various roller sizes until the rods will turn with a very slight drag. This is a plug fit. Determining running fil is merely a matter subtracting one half the desired running fit clearance (0.0005 in.) from the roller size to find the running 'il roller size.
0'
It may be easier to gauge a plug iii as follows:
Figure 3路59. Lapping Connecting Rod
Fitting Rod Bearings Oversized rollers are used in the rod bearing to adjust connecting rod free play on crankpln. Oversize rollers are available .0002, .0004, .0006, .0008, .0010, .0015 and .0020 in. oversize. Prior to selecting oversized rollers, rod races must be lapped to remove wear spots, grooves or other flaws. See LAPPING CONNECTING ROD RACES. There are two ways to determine which oversized rollers 10 use. Bol h will result In properly lilled bearings, if applied correctly. NOTE
All fittfng and checking must be made with bearings, rods and crank pin clean and free of oil.
3路50
Fit any size rollers into races. Position bearings in rods. Support rods and bearings with left hand. Drop crank pin (not attached to flywheel) through crank pin hole. Plug 'it has been achieved when crank pin will slide slowly through hole from its own weight. Running fil is then determined by subtracting one half running clearance from oversize of rollers used to make plug lit. CAUTION Fitting bearings tighter than described may result in seizing and bearing damage when heat expands parts. Check overall width of roller retainer assembly. II must be less than width of female rod end. NOTE
Roller bearIngs are not available in odd numbered sizes; therefore, when determIning a plug fit, if the bearIngs are too loose with an even numbered roller bearIng (Example .0008 In. oversize) and too tight with the next size even numbered rol/er bearing (.001 in. oversize), it must be assumed that a theoretical odd size bearing (.0009 In. oversize) would achieve a plug fit. Use this theoretical size to compute running fit.
Assembly
4.
On ear ly 1981 and earlier models apply 640 retaining compound to shaft tapers as shown in Figure 3-60. On late 1981 and later models, apply two drops of 620 re taining compound to the shaft threads and no more than two drops to the nul bearing faces.
See Figure 3·61 . Ho ld steel straightedge along outer face of wheel rims at 90 degrees from crankpin as shown. Tap outer rim of top wheel until wheels are concentric . Tighten nut, recheck with straightedge at frequent intervals. Use soft metal hammer to rea lign wheels.
After correct connecting rod bearing fit has been altained , clean and assemble parts as fo llows: 1.
Assemble the sprocket shaft (13, Figure 3-55) to the left flywheel (2).
rFo
m]]]]]]]]]
~~~s~p~rO~C~k~e~I~S~ha~I~I~~ One drop on 640-retaining compound these locations
Figure 3-61. Squaring Flywheel Faces
5.
See Figure 3-62. When nut is fairly tight, install flywheel assembly in Harley-Davidson FLYWHEEL TRUING DEVICE , ParI No. HD-96650-80, as shown. Adjust so centers are sn ug. Wheels must turn freely but shafts may not be loose in centers. If fly wheel assembly is either loose or squeezed, indicators will not ' ind icate accurate ly. Adjust indicators to take reading as near to flywheels as possible, so pointers read at about the mid dle of the scales.
6.
Tu rn flywheels slow ly and observe the movement of indicator pointers. Movement toward flywheels i ndicate high poi nts of shafts . Find highest point of each shaft and chalk-mark flywheel rims at those points. Remove fl ywhee l from stand and make corrections as follows:
Pinion shaft
Crank pin
Figure 3-60. loctite Application -
2.
Early 1981 and Earlier
See ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS for proper torque. Assemble pinion shaft (7) and crankpin (10) to right flywheel (6) making sure that keys (8, 11) are in proper position. See ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS for proper torque.
Check to make sure oil passages through pinion shaft, right flywheel and crankpin are clear by blowi ng compressed ai r into hole near end of pinion shaft. 3.
Position right flywheel assembly in a flywheel fix· ture, crankpin up. Wipe crankpin taper clean. Sl ip bearings, and connecting rods over crankpin with forked rod 10 rear cylinder. Inslailieft flywheel and tighten nut lightly.
7. See Figure 3-63. Flywhee l may be out of true three ways, A, Band C or a combination of two of the three ways. 8.
When wheels are both out of tru e as i nd icated in A, tighten C-clamp on rims or wheels opposite crankpin and lightly tap the rim at the crankpin with lead or copper mallet.
9.
When wheels are both out of true as indicated in 8 , drive a hardwood wedge between the wheels opposite the crankpin and lightly tap the rims near the crankpin with a lead or copper mallet.
10.
When wheels are out of true as indicated in C, strike the rim of Ihe wheel a firm blow at about 90 degrees from crankpin on high side. 3·51
A.
Flywheels and crank pin assembled with oil on tapers and nut over·tightened. Disassemble, clean and reassemble.
B.
The number of blows required and how hard they should be struck depends on how far shafts are out of true and how tight nuts are drawn.
New flywheel washers installed and not fully seated. Disassemble, inspect, replace deepest seating flywheel or crankpin. As last resort, grind down width of forked rod.
C.
Remember that centers must be loosened slightly before striking flywheels. Making them too loose may result in damaged centers.
Taper holes enlarged as a result of having been taken apart several times. Replace deepest seating wheel.
D.
Cracked flywheel at tapered hole. Replace flywheel.
11.
When wheels are out of true in a combination of any of thE! conditions shown, correct A or B first, tapping rim of offending wheel only, and then correct condition C. NOTE
Never strike wheels a hard blow near crank pin. This could result in a broken crank pin. 12.
13.
14.
See Figure 3·62. Readjust centers, revolve wheels and take reading from indicator. Repeat truing operation until indicated shaft runout does not ex· ceed 0.001 in. (each graduation on indicator is 0.002 in.).
If it is impossible to true wheels, check for a cracked flywheel, damaged or enlarged tapered hole, or a sprocket or pinion shaft worn out-of· round at surface where indicator reading is being taken. When wheels are true, position in vise and draw crankpin nuts very tight using CRANKPIN and FLYWHEEL NUT WRENCH, Part No. HD·94546·41. Use torque wrench to finish tighten· ing as specified in SPECIFICATIONS. See Figure 3-64. Check connecting rod side play with thickness gauge as shown. If it is greater than tolerance shown in engine SPECIFICATIONS, draw up crankpin nuts until within tolerance. Insufficient play between rods and flywheel face is caused by one of the following conditions:
NOTE
If sides of forked rod are ground to get desired clearance, backs of bearing retainers must be ground down to remain narrower than width of female rod.
After rod side play is checked and adjusted and crankpin nut tightened to specified torque, again recheck wheel trueness on truing device. Correct any runout as above.
ASSEMBLY Lubricate all parts with (POWER BLEND SUPER PREMIUM) engine oil and proceed as follows: 1.
Referring to Figure 3-51, place lock ring (9) into groove In left crankcase half (2). Position lock ring gap over oiling hole to allow oil flow to bearing. Press both outer races (7 and 10) back in place against ring (9).
1811
F igure 3-62. Truing Flywheel
3·52
10.
Install alternator rotor (late 1984 and 1985), clutch and cl utch release mechanism as described in CLUTCH, Section 6.
13.
Install cyl inder heads as described in CY LI NDER HEAD.
14.
Install cam gears, gearcase cover, tappet guides, tappets, and generator as described in GEARCASE.
15.
Install ignition system and time engine as de· scribed in IGNITION SYSTEM, Section 7.
NOTE Be sure to refill transmission with oil as described in LUBRICA TlON, Section 6. 11.
Install oi l pump as described in OIL PUMP.
12.
Install cylinders and pistons as described in CYLINDERS.
""
""
Figure 3-66. Installing Crankshatt Roller Race
3·54
Figure 3-67. Assembling Left Crankcase to Flywheel Assembly
SPECIFICATIONS (XR·1000) GENERAL Number of cylinders Type .. .
Bore ... . .... . Stroke Piston displacement Compression ratio .
..................... 2 .... 4·Cycle, 45 Degree V-Type . ....... 3.188 In. (81 mm) ... 3.8125 In. (96.8 mm) ........ 60.9 cu. In. (997.5 e el
. .. . 9.0 to 1
VALVES Fit In guide Exhaust . . Intake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Outer spring load Valve closed Valve open . . . . ..... Inner spring load Valve closed ....... Valve open . . Spring free length Outer . . . Inner •..
.0015 in.· .0030 In. .0010 In. · .0025 in. . 138·'46Ibs. at 1.46 In . . 215-245 Ibs. at 1.05 In. . . 58-66lbs. at 1.32 in. . 12()'136lbs. at .91 in.
.2.10 In . .... 1.72 ln.
.0005 in.· .0025 In. .005 in. · .010 In.
CYLINDER HEAD Valve guide to cylinder head (Interference). . . . . . . . . . . . . Valve seat Insert to cylinder head (Interference).
.0014 In ... 0028 In.
.006 in.·.OO9 In.
PISTON Fit In cylinder (loose) . . . . ........0025 to .0035 In. Ri ng gap Top compression. . . . . ............008 In. 2nd compression . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. .008 In. all control ........................... . .015 in. all control ring side clearance . . .003 In. Compression ring side clearance .... .004 in. Piston pin. .. . Light hand press fit at 70-F
TAPPETS Fit In guide (loose) Roller lit .. Roller end clearance ... Tappet clearance Engi ne cold ..
.001 in . - .002 In. .0005 in.· .001 In. .008 in. - .010 In. .002 in.· .003 in. lash
VALVE TIMING ( @O.005 in. tappet lift) Intaj(e Opens . Closes . Exhaust Opens .. . Closes .. .
. 66 * :t:4 - BTDC . .. 13O - :t:4 - ABDC .... 110-:t:4 - BBDC .. 81 - :t:4 * ATDC
Idler gear shaft in bushing. .0005 In. - .001 In. Cam gear shaft In bushing . .0005 In. - .002 in. Cam gear shaft in needle bearing ............... .0005 in. -.003 in. Minimum cam gear end play ..... . ...... 005 in. except rear exhaust wh ich is ................004 In . Cam gear backlash . . ....0000 in. - .0005 In.
FLYWHEEL ASSEMBLY Runout at rim (flywheels) .. .003 In. .001 In . Shaft runout at flywheel . . ........ . . . End play .... . ............. . .001 In.
SPROCKET SHAFT BEARING Cup lit In crankcase (tight) .......... 0004 In. - .0024 in. Cone fit on shaft (Ught) .............0002 In .•. 0015 in . . ...001 In.· .007 In. End play . . . . .
PINION GEAR SHAFT
CONNECTING ROD Piston pin / bushing clearance ....... . .001 in.· .002 In. Side play between flywheels .. . .005 in. - .025 In. Crank pin / rod bearing clearance . ....001 In.· .0015 In.
OIL PUMP Pressure (Oil hot) Minimum (at Idle)
15PSI .0005 In . .011 In.
GEARCASE
ROCKER ARM Shaft fit In bearings (loose) . . End play. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Maxi mum (at 60 mph) Shaft / bushing clearance ........... . Feed gear height i n pump c over .
4 PSI
Fltln roller bearing (tight) ........... 0005 In . . .0015 In . Fit In cover bushing (loose) .. .0005 In. - .0015 in.
IGNITION not adjustable Ignition timer air gap .. . 2- ATDC Retarded ... . ........... . Idle advance (600·1600 rpm) . 16 - BTDC Full advance (above 1600 rpm) .. 30 * BTDC Spark plug gap setting (RN7YC, 6R7) .... .038·.043 In.
3·55
TORQUES
Piston
Gear shaft nut ........ _............. 100to120fl·lbs Sprocket shaft nut .................. 100 to 120 ft·lbs Crank pin nuts ...................... 150 to 175 ft·lbs 011 pump mounllng screws. . ... 90 to 110 in·Jbs Cylinder head nuts .................... 25 to 30 ft·lbs Rocker arm locknuts .......... 18 to 22 ft-Ibs Rear molor mounting boll·nut . .... 16to24ft·lbs Rocker cover bolts. . ..... 141019 ft·tbs
Fitln cylinder (loose) .002Sln. to .000Sln. Ring gap Top compression. .OOB in. to .022 2nd compression. .008 in. to .030 011 control .01S in. to .OSS Oil control ring side clearance. .003 In. to.OO6 Compression ring side clearance . .004 In. to .006
Connecting Rod
SERVICE WEAR LIMITS
Piston pin fit (loose) . Side play between flywheels. Fit on crank pin (loose) ........... .
NOTE
Wear limits 8r8 given
8S 8
guideline for measuring
engine components that 8re not new. For new components or for measurements not given here, use measurements given under SPEC/FICA TlONS.
.001S in.· .007 in. .0010 in.· .006 In.
Outer spring toad Valve closed. . ...... 123·146 Ibs. at 1.46 in. . . . . . . . . • . . .. 200·24S Ibs. atl.0S in . Valve open. Inner spring load Valve closed .. . SO-66tbs. at 1.32 in. . .115-136Ibs. at.91 in. Valve open ... . Spring free length Outer ............... . . . ... 2.04 in . Inner .. .... . 1.66 in.
Rocker Arm Shall fit In bearings . ............ . End play.
.000S ln.· .003S in. .OOS In ...020 in.
Cylinder Head Valve guide to cylinder head (interference) .. Warpage.
.004 in. .000s in. .001 in.
Tappets Fit in guide (loose) Ronerflt Roller end clearance ...
.001 in.· .003 in. .000s in.· .0012 in. .00Bln. ·.012In.
Gearcase Idler gear shaft In bushing. .000Sln ... 003 In. .000s in.· .003 In. Cam gear shaft In bushing. Cam gear shaft In needle bearing .. .......... .000s in ... 0031 In. Minimum cam gear end play .................OOS in. except rear exhaust which is ................004 in.
Flywheel Assembly .0014 in.· .0028 in. .00Sln.
Cylinder Taper .. Out of round .. Warpage head and base gasket surfaces ..
3·56
Oil Pump Feed and scavenge innerfouter gerotor clearance Shaftfbushlng clearance Feed gear height In pump cover.
Valves Fit In guide Exhaust Intake ..
.0008 in. · .003 in. .OOS in.· .030 In. .001 In.· .0017 In.
Runout at rim (flywheels) Shall runout at flywheel. End play. . .............•..
.006 In. .002 In. .007 in.
Pinion Gear Shall .002 n. .001 n. .003 n.
Fltln rolier bearing (tight). Fit in cover bushing (loose)
.000s In.· .002 in . .000Sln.· .003S in.
ENGINE (XR·1000) GENERAL INFORMATION Although similar to the Xl models engine, the XA·1000 does incorporate definite engine design features that make it unique. It is an effective hybrid or cross of the XA-750 racing engine and the XL models 1000cc engine. The information presented in this section represents the unique differences found in the XA·1000 engine.
4.
When adequate pressure is produced, the oil pressure Indicator light sending unit is activated and the check valve opens.
5.
With check valve open, oil f lows into the right crankcase through a hole located i n the oil pump gasket surface. Oil enters gearcase passage through hole in gearcase cover gasket.
6.
Oil flow Is then routed to both the crankshaft and the cylinder head areas. Oil enters a hole in the end of the pinion shaft and travels to the right flywheel where it is routed through the flywheel to the crank pin. 011 is forced through the crank pin to properly lubricate the rod bearing assembly.
7.
011 which does nol enter the pinion shaft travels upward through the gearcase cover to the right crankcase. Oil flow continues through a passage in the crankcase to the overhead oil feed lines. (One line to the front cylinder intake rocker arm components and one line to the rear cylinder exhaust rocker arm components.) The oil provides lubrication to the rocker arm shafts, bearings, valves, and pushrods.
8.
011 flow continues around a groove machined in the outside diameter of the large end of the rocker arm shaft and through the rocker arm cover. The front cylinder oil flow in the rocker arm cover Is from Intake to exhaust side. The rear cylinder oil flow in the rocker arm cover is from exhaust to in· take side. The valves are lubricated and cooled by a hole drilled In the rocker arm which sprays oil directly onto the tip of the valve stem and valve spring.
9.
Oil collected In the pushrod area of the cylinder heads flows down the pushrod covers to lubricate the tappets.
10.
Oil flows from the rocker cover to the upper chambers of the cylinder head. Oil continues to flow from the upper or inside valve chambers to the lower or outside valve chambers of the cylinder head where It exits out an external oit return line. 011 returning from the heads, rod assembly, and gearcase collects in the sump area below the flywheels.
11.
011 collected in the sump area rei urns to the scavenge section of the oil pump through a passage located in the rear section of the sump. Oil flow to the pump is accomplished by the scavenging effect of the pump and by the pressure created by the downward stroke of the pistons.
12.
Return oil fills a cavity just above the scavenge pump. The pump transfers return oil to the outlet side of the pump and back to oil tank.
The XA-l000 engine Is a two-cylinder, four cycle, aircooled, overhead valve, V·type engine with 1000cc (61 cu. in.) displacement. It has three major component as-
semblies: cylinder, crankcase, and gearcase. The transmission is a constant mesh 4-speed identical to the XL models transmission.
LUBRICATION General The engine has a force-Ieed (pressure) type oiling system incorporating oil feed and return in one pump body, with one check valve on the oil feed side. The feed pump forces oil to the engine, lubricating lower connecting rod bearings, timing gears and bushings, generator drive gear, rocker arm bearings, valve sIems, valve spring, push rods and tappets. Cylinder walls, pistons, piston pins and main bearings are lubricated by all spray thrown off from connecting rods and crankshaft. 011 drains from rocker arm boxes to the crankcase through two external hoses from each cylinder head.
Oiling System (Figure 3·68) 1.
Oil is supplied to the gerotor type oil pump by gravity feed from the oil tank. Oil enters the feed section and fill s a cavity located under the feed pump. NOTE
A complele explanation of lhe gerolor pump is given In GEARCASE section. See OIL PUMP. 2.
The feed gears transfer oil from the inlet cavity to the check valve located in the outlet l ine.
3.
The one way check valve is preset to open at 4 to 6 PSI all pressure. This valve prevents gravity oil drainage from tank to engine and acts as a restriction to activate all pressure switch .
3·57
Figure 3·68. Oiling System -
3·58
Part I (XR·1000)
FIgure 3·68. Oiling System -
Part II (XR·1000)
3·59
13.
14.
All engine breathing is accomplished through the gearcase breather system. Oil carried by the crank· case exhaust air is centrifugally separated from the air by an oil slinger on the end of the generator drive gear shaft.
7.
Remove rear top engine bracket which supports ig· nition switch and allow to hang free.
8.
Remove front top engine bracket.
9.
Disconnect both spark plug wires.
On the piston downstroke, exhaust air escapes through a one way check valve and Is routed to the rear air filter.
15.
Any oil that condenses in the breather hose, drains into the gearcase from drain hole below breather valve.
16.
Scavenge pump.
17.
Return oil to tank.
18.
Vent line to rear cylinder air filter.
STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR ENGINE REPAIR
NOTE At this poInt, only the front cylinder, front cylinder head, and rocker cover can be worked on or removed. See CYLINDER HEAD and CYLINDER AND PISTON sec· tions. Otherwise proceed to next step.
10.
Remove rear brake master cylinder mounting bolts and rear brake line clip screw.
11.
Remove rear chain sprocket cover with footpeg and brake pedal atta~hed.
12.
Disconnect master link and remove rear chain.
13.
Disconnect wire to oil pressure switch. Remove oil pressure switch.
14.
Unplug ignition timer plate wires from ignition module.
15.
Disconnect battery cable on large upper post and black wire from starter on small post.
16.
Disconnect wires to generator.
17.
Disconnect black ground wire attached crankcase rear motor mount bolt.
18.
Introduce free play to clutch cable. Detach clutch cable, along with hand lever, and allow to hang free.
19.
Remove the oil feed and return lines at the oil pump and the vent line on top of the Oil. tank.
20.
Remove hardware attaching front of engine to frame.
21.
Remove hardware attaching rear of engine to frame. Rear mount remains attached to engine.
22.
Engine Is now free to be removed from chassis. Lift engine up off the mounting pad. Slip engine from left side of chassis with top of engine tipped slightly off center of chassis.
WARNING To prevent accidental starter operation and possible personal Injury, disconnect battery cables (negative first) before doing any work on the engine, drive or electrical system. 1.
Remove seat.
2.
Remove exhaust system.
3.
Disconnect fuel hoses at fuel valve and drain gasoline. Remove gas tank. Disconnect wires to ig· nition coil. Allow throttle cable junction box and Ig· nition coil to hang free. Disconnect wire from horn.
4.
5.
Disconnect crankcase vent hose from rear air filter assembly. Disconnect intake manifold clamps. Carefully, swing carburetor/air filter assemblies, with throttle cables attached, out of the way of engine. Remove only rear cylinder intake manifold. NOTE
/n order to remove engine from chassis it is necessary to remove only rear cylinder intake manifold. 6.
3·60
to
Drain oil tank
011 pump
To 011 filter
Figure 3·69. Oil Hose Routing (XR·1000)
3·61
CYLINDER HEAD (XR-1000) REMOVING (Figure 3-70)
have been color coded to ensure installation In the cor· rect location. Coding is as follows:
1.
The front cy li nder can be serviced with the engine inthe chassis. For rear cylinder head removal strip motorcycle as described earlier in STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR ENGINE REPAIR, Steps 1·9.
2.
Remove carbu retor and manifold assembly from cylinder head.
3.
Disconnect cylinder head 011 feed (1 5) and ret urn (27) lines at fittings.
4.
5.
6.
Remove spark plugs. Turn enQine over until piston is at top dead center of compression stroke and both valves (25) are closed.
Loosen rocker arm shat! locknuts (5), Remove rocker cover bolts (1), stud (2), and rocker cover assembly. Remove one piece push rod tubes (32) and push rods (33). Mark push rods so they wil l be reassembled in the same position . Push rods (33) are two different lengths. The inside (longer) push rods (rear cylinder exhaust and front cylinder in· take) are ident ified by a red stripe. The outer (shorter) push rods (rear cylinder intake and front cylinder exhaust) are ident if ied by a white stripe. Remove the four head nuts (17). Free cylinder head (19) and remove . NOTE
/I cylinder head does not come loose on removal of head nuts, tap lightly with a rawhide hammer. Never pry head off.
DISASSEMBLING (Figure 3·70) Rocker Cover 1.
Front intake - red Front Exhaust - white Rear Intake - blue Rear Exhaust - yellow 4.
REPLACING ROCKER ARM BEARINGS NOTE
Replacement rocker arms are supplied with bearings In· stalled. 1.
From opposite end of rocker arm, use a BUSHING AND BEARING PULLER, Part No. HD·95760·69, press or drive bearing from arm .
2.
Caref ully press replacement bearing into rocker arm using an arbor press until bearing seats on shoulder. CAUTION
Rolled side of the bearing enters arm first. Apply pressure to numbered or hardened flat side of bearing.
REPLACING VALVE GUIDES The aluminum heads use bronze al loy valve guides. Replacing valve guides, if necessary, must be done before valve seat and face are ground since the valve stem hole in valve guide is the basis from which all face and seat grinding is done. Valve stem-valve guide clearances are listed in c hart below. If valve stems and lor guides are worn beyond service wear limits, new parts must be installed.
Before further disassembly, carefully check rocker arm pads and ball sockets for pitting or excessive wear. Check rocker arm (9) for excessive end play on rocker arm shaft (8).
2.
Remove rocker arm shaft locknut (15) and washer (6).
3.
Carefully tap rocker arm shaft (8) through cover (14). Remove rocker arm (9), spacer (12), shims (11), and a·rlngs (6 and 7). Mark components so all parts may be returned to their respective locations during assembly. CAUTION
Rocker arms are not interchangeable. Therefore, they
Discard a·rings (6 and 7).
Valve Stem to Guide Clearance Valve
Clearance
Wear Limit
Intake Exhaust
.001· .0025 .0015 - .003
.006 .007
1.
Decarbonize combustion chamber.
2.
Tap valve guides out with a shouldered drift pin (from chamber side) and insert replacement guide. Be particularly careful to tap replacement guide squarely i':lto hole.
3.
When guides are pressed Into cylinder heads, they may close up slightly; also the ends may be burred . Therefore, after new guides are in place, they must
""
~~I I 1 '@(
10
10,
12 11 f,)
~
9-e~~~ '13 13
14
'" ...
1 _18
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17.
Rocker cover boll (8) Rocker cover stud Rocker cover washer Rocker cover stud nut Rocker shaft locknut (2) Rocker shaft washer (2) Rocker shaft O路rlng (4) Rocker arm shaft (2) Rocker 8rm (2) Rocker arm needle bearings (4) Rocker shaft shims (4 each) Rocker shaH spacer (2) Rocker cover access hole plug & washer (2) Rocker arm cover Rocker cover oil feed fitting Rocker shaft screw Insert (2) Cylinder head nut & washer (4)
18. Cylinder and cylinder head stud (4)
19. Cylinder head 20. Valve key (4) and upper valve spring collar (2) 21. Inner and outer valve springs (2 each) 22. Lower valve spring collar (2) 23. Valve guide seal (2) 24. Valve guide (2) 25. Intake and exhaust valve 26. Valve seat insert (2) 27. Cylinder head 011 return fitting (2 piece) 28. Exhaust valve port Insert 29. Intake manifold bolt and washer (2) 30. Intake manifold 31. Intake manifold gasket 32. Push rod cover tube (2) 33. Push rod (2) 34. Push rod cover tube seal (4)
Figure 3路70. Cylinder Head Assembly (XR路1000)
3路64
be sized with a 5/16 in. EXPANSION REAMER, Part No. HO-94810-80. 4.
It is of prime importance that valve guides fit tightly in cylinder heads or valves may not seat proper· Iy. There is a minimum interference fit of .0014 in. If original guide or new standard guide is not a light press fit, an oversize guide must be installed.
5.
To ensure new valve guide is press fit, new over· sized valve guides are available in five sizes: .002" .004" .006" .008" .010"
1slover 2nd over 3rd over 4th over 51h over
0.0. 0.0. 0.0. 0.0. 0.0.
White Yellow Green Blue Black
Both intake and exhaust oversized guides are identified by a series of colored paint dots on the guide's outside diameter.
A
REFACING VALVE SEAT (Figure 3·71)
Max.
Min.
1.700
1.654
Figure 3-72. Valve Seat Specifications
Valve seats, like valves, are subject to wear, pitting, and burning and should be refaced each time valves are refaced or replaced.
2.
Cut 46" seat angle first. Cut only enough to clean up seat.
See Figure 3-72. Prior to ref acing valve seat, determine if seat is still usable or if replacement is necessary. A special GAUGE TOOL, Part No. HO-96489·63, is available to accurately measure the "A" dimension.
3.
See Figure 3-73. Apply blueing to valve face and in· stall in head. Rotate valve against seal. Remove valve and check contact pattern. Valve seat should be .060 in. wide and centered on valve.
We recommend using a NEWAY VALVE SEAT CUrrER, to cut valve seats.
4.
If valve pattern is too close to stem side of valve face, cut 52° angle to raise seat. If pattern is too close to edge of valve face, cut 40" angle to lower seat.
1.
Decarbonize combustion chamber.
, Head
"'
s.. t.060.~ ~
A.
45° _ _
//~"'"'
Valve
Valve seat
.060 In. centered on valve face
/-":;"'---~~~~~"" .... Figure 3-71. Cutting Valve Seat
Figure 3·73. Valve Contact Pattern
3·65
5.
After cutti ng ei ther or both 40- or 52- angle to posi· tion seat, final cut 46- seat angle to obtai n proper .060 In. width.
6.
If seats were ground, apply a small amount of lapping compound evenly all the way around valve face.
7.
Insert valve in guide and attach LAPPING TOOL, Part No. HD·96550·36. Allowing the spring to pro· vide pressure against seat, oscillate valve and listen to abrasive sound of the compound. When the sound becomes smooth, indicating lapping compound has worked out of seat, lift valve off seat and rotate It 1/3 turn. Repeat procedure until valve has been rotated one full tu rn.
8.
If the seat and valve face have an unbroken lapped finish and a uniform width, no furt her lapping Is reo qulred.
g.
Wash the head and valves in warm soapy water. Rinse off and dry thoroughly with a clean cloth. CAUTION
Discard cloth Immediately to prevent transferring lap· ping compound to internal engine parts . 10.
Apply a fitm of oit to components to prevent corrosion. CAUTION
When removing valve seats, valve height ('A,), Figure 3·72, must be mainlined. This can be achieved by carefully grinding material off the valve stem head. Do not remove more than .020 In. If more Is required to meet height ('A') replace valve andlor seat.
REPLACING VALVE GUIDE SEALS (Figure 3-74)
Valve guide seal
Protective sleeve
Figure 3·74. Valve Guide Seal and Protective Sleeve
IMPORTANT Valve guide seal must be Installed squarely and firmly onto gu ide or it will not stay on during engine operation. Do not remove the valve after seal has been Installed. Doing so will destroy the seal.
VALVE SEAT INSERTS As valve and seat are refaced from time to time, valve seat will widen and valve will seat lower when fully closed. Passage around valve, when fully open, Is restricted and valve will tend to float as spring tension is reduced. Valve seat Inserts are available from the factory. Installation requires accurate boring equipment to machine correct counterbore in head, for installation within .006 In. - .009 In. In terference fit.
PUSH RODS Replacing
NOTE
1.
Install and position a protective sleeve over the valve stem so that it completely covers the keeper area 01 the stem. Coal the sleeve with oil.
Replacement of the push rods for either cylinder reo quires removing the rocker arm covers. This can be accomplished on the Iront cylinder with the engine remaining In the chassis. The rear cylinder push rods cannot be removed without pulling the engine from the chassis. Refer to STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR ENGINE REPAIR and REMOVING CYLINDER HEAD as described earlier.
2.
Slide a new valve guide seal down the valve stem and position it squarely against valve guide. Remove the protective sleeve.
ASSEMBLING ROCKER COVER AND INSTALLING (Figure 3-70)
3.
Carefully tap seal down on guide unt il it Is fi rmly seated on guide.
Whenever 8 v8/ve /s removed from a head, the valve guide seal mus t be replaced. Also, whenever a valve guide Is replsced, the vs/ve seat must be re-ground.
3·66
1.
Remove any old sealant or debris from cylinder head and rocker cover.
2.
~ssemble the following parts into cover (14): shims (1 1), rocker arm (9), and spacer (12).
4.
Be sure the color 90ded rocker arms are installed in their proper locations as follows: front intake white; front exhaust - red; rear intake - blue, and rear exhaust - yellow.
Inslall the Ihick washers. Start nuts onlo studs. Turn nuts snug and check to make sure sealing surfaces are still flush. Then using a torque wrench, tighten each nul 1/4 turn at a lime, observing a proper cross pattern, until all are drawn to 25·30 ft·lbs lorque. (See Figure 3·75.)
3.
Replace O-ring (7) on rocker shaft end. Carefully tap rocker arm shaft (8) through cover (14) with the index mark on the shaft end between the adjusting marks on the cover (14).
4.
Check rocker arm end play. (See SPECIFICATIONS and SERVICE WEAR LIMITS In this section.) If not within specifications, reshlm as required.
5.
Install new O·ring (7), washer (6), and finger tighten locknut (5).
6.
Use a non·hardening sealant such as "Gasolla" or "Gasgaclnch" between cylinder head (19) and rocker cover (14) faces. No gasket required.
7.
In spect push rod tube seals (34) and replace, if necessary.
Figure 3·75. Cylinder Head Nut Torque Pattern
8.
Turn engine until piston Is at the top of its compression stroke.
NOTE
9.
Install push rods (33) and cover tubes (32) through cylinder head holes into tappet guides.
10.
Position rocker arm cover (14) on cylinder head (19). Insert push rods (33) and cover tubes (32 into ball sockets of rocker arm cover (14). Install washers (3), motor mounts, and rocker arm cover bolts (1). Bolts must be tightened evenly to altaln an oil tight fit. First turn them snug; then, lighten each one 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time until all are tightened to 18-22 ft-Ibs torque. 00 not overtighten. NOTE
The fronl cylinder rocker arm cover utilizes a stud (2) on the front right side. This enables service to be performed on the 'rant cylinder without pulling the entire engine 'rom the chassis.
If oil fitting on cylinder head or rocker cover Is removed, apply a coal of PIPE SEALANT WITH TEFLON, Pari No. HO·99630-77 on threads before reinstalling.
VALVE CLEARANCE ADJUSTMENT 1.
Engine must be cold during adjustment.
2.
(See Figure 3-76). Remove rocker arm access hole plugs on one cylinder.
3.
Turn engine over until piston of the cylinder to be adjusted Is at top dead center (TOC) of the compression stroke and both Intake and exhaust valves are closed.
INSTALLING CYLINDER HEAD No gasket is used between the cylinder and cylinder head. The sealing surface consists of a metal 10 metal seat. For Ihis reason, it is very important that these two sealing faces are cleaned throroughly. Avoid scratching or damaging the sealing surfaces when disassembled. 1.
Remove dirt and debris from cylinder head sealing surface with a non-metallic type scraper.
2.
Wash sealing surface with soap and water. Dry thoroughly.
3.
Position cylinder head over cylinder with push rod holes aligned and slide cylinder head onto cylinder studs. Make sure sealing surfaces between cylinder and cylinder head are flush.
Figure 3·76. Valve Adjustment
4.
Lo.osen rocker arm shaft locknut (2) on either in· take or exhaust side.
5.
Measu re the clearance between the rocker arm and the tip of the valve stem with a feeler gauge through the access hole (1) in the rocker box. Clearance Is .002 .. 003 in.
6.
Slowly turn the rocker arm shaft until the correct clearance is obtained.
7.
Hold the rocker arm shaft stationary and tighten the locknut (2) to 18-22 ft·lbs torque at the same time. Do not overtighten the locknut.
NOTE 1. Index marX When tightening the rocker arm shalt locknut, the shaft itself may move slightly dis turbing the correct clearance setting. 12.
8.
Always recheck the clearance. It should be within the range limit of .002 ..003 in. If not, loosen the locknut (2) and reset the clearance again repeating the preceding sleps 4 . 7.
9.
Once the clearance is set correctly. reinstall the rocker arm access hole plug and tighten to 20·30 ft· Ibs torque.
10.
Adjust the cleara nce for the other valve on the same cylinder following the preceding steps 4 . 9.
2. Adjuster marks
Figure 3·77. Push Rod Check (See Figure 3·77). After correct valve clearance is achieved, the index mark (1) on the rocker arm shaft end must fall between the adjuster marks (2) on the rocker box. If the index mark falls outside of the limits on the rocker box , longer or shorter push rods must be substituted as required. This is necessary to maintain correct centering of the rocker arm pad on the valve stem. Above the top mark requires a shorter push rod. Beneath the lower mark, a longer push rod is reQuired. CAUTION
11.
3·68
Adjust the valve clearance on the opposite cylinder fallowing the preceding steps 2 . 10.
Do not attempt to start or run engine If Index mark on the rocker arm shaft end falls outside of the limit marks on the rocker box. Refer to the service manual supplement for push rod replacement.
CYLINDER AND PISTON (XR·1000) NOTE
REMOVING (Figure 3·78) 1.
For rear cylinder removal strip molorcyle as descr ibed in STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR ENGINE REPAIR. Front cylinder can be removed with engine in chassis .
If cylinder (2) does not come loose, tap lightly with rawhide hammer. Never pry cylinder up. 6.
Carefully pull cylinder (2) over piston (8). Do not allow piston to fal l against crankcase. Discard cyl i nder base gasket (3).
2.
Remove rocker arm cover and cylinder head as described in CYLINDER HEAD REMOVAl.
7.
Spread piston rings (4 and 5) outward until they clear ring grooves in piston and lift off.
3.
Clean crankcase around base of cylinder to pre· vent dirt from entering crankcase when cylinder is removed.
8.
Remove piston pin lock rings (6) using a sharp pOinted tool. Lock rings should easily pop out. Be careful not to scratch aluminum piston.
4.
Turn engine until piston (8) is at the bottom of stroke.
9.
Support piston (8) and tap out piston pin (7) using a suitab le drift.
5.
Carefully raise cylinder (2) enough to permit placing a rag over crankcase opening. This will prevent dirt and other foreign matter from entering crankcase.
NOTE
It may be necessary to heat piston to remove pin. 10.
Remove piston pin bushing (9) if necessary. See CLEANING AND INSPECTION.
"" FITTING CYLINDER TO PISTON Desired piston to cylinder clearance is .0025 in. - .0035 in . For acceptable service wear of piston to cylinder clearance see SERVICE WEAR LIMITS. Pistons are available in the following oversizes: .005 std., .010, .020, .030, and .040. Oversize pistons have their size stamped on the head .
Cylinders can be refinished oversize with a hone only, or with a boring bar followed by a finishing hone. In gen· era l practice, only cylinders not scored and not badly worn are refinished entirely with a hone. Cy linders badly worn or deeply scored are first rebored to nearly the required oversize and then are finish-honed to exact size. Exact final size of cylinder bore is determined by size of piston to be used in that cylinder. Measure piston diameter accurately, as described previously and then add desired piston clearance (.0025 - .0035 in.). This will equal the exact final size to which cylinder bore should be refinished. 1. Cylinder stud (4) 2. Cylinder 3. Cylinder base gasket 4. Compression rings (2) 5. Oil control ring (3-piece)
6. Piston pin lock ring (2) 7. 8. 9. 10.
Piston pin Piston Piston pin bushing Connecting rod
Figure 3-78. Cylinder and Piston Assembly
NOTE
The same piston may be used if cylinder bore was not changed, unless it is scuffed or grooved. However, replace rings and rough the cylinder walls with a No. 280 grit hone to facilitate ring seating.
3·69
FITTING PISTON RINGS
1.
Install piston assembly over connecting rod (10).
Piston rings include a beveled barrel-faced , moly-filled lop ring , a taper-faced second ring, and a three-piece oil control ring with two chrome plated rails and a co rrugated expander.
2.
Press piston pin (7) into place. Piston pin should be a light hand press at 70° F.
3.
Install new wire piston pin lock r ings (6) with a light finger press . It is important thai lock ring end gap be positioned at 3 o'clock or 9 o'clock.
Rings are available in the following oversizes to fit slandard oversize pistons: .005, .010, 020, 030, and .040. Piston rings must be properly fitted to piston and cylinder.
1.
Check for proper side clearance with a thickness gauge, Figure 3-25. See SPECIFICATIONS (XR -l000) for tolerance.
2.
Place piston in cyl inder about 112 in . from top. Set ring to be checked squarely against piston as shown in Figure 3·26. Check end gap with thickness gauge. See SPECIFICATIONS (XR-l000) for toleranc e.
3.
CAUTION Make sure wire lock ring groove is clean and that the new wire lock ring seats firmly in groove. A wire lock ring loosely installed will rapidly loosen further in ser· vice and will eventually come out of piston pin groove, resulting in both piston and cylinder being damaged beyond repair. Only new wire lock rings should be used. Once it has been installed in a piston and then removed for any reason, discard it. Wire lock ring end gap must be positioned at 3 or 9 o'clock.
4.
Gap may be increased by filing with a fine-cut file.
Check each cyl inder stud (1) height by measuring from the cylinder base surface of the crankcase to the top of the stud (1). The height is 8.05 in . to 8.09 in . Thread studs in or out 10 achieve correct mounting height for cylinder and cylinder head.
NOTE Use a piston ring expander tool to slip compression rings over piston into their respective grooves . Be extremely carefu l not to over-expand or twist rings, or damage piston surface when installing rings . Ring end gap should be staggered .
Cylinder studs should be removed and installed with an appropriate tool. Do not use a vise grips or double·nut. Snap·On, A50 STUD REMOVER TOOL with a 7116 in . to 112 in. capacity can be used. Grasp the stud as close to the base as possible with the tool. Always check stud height after installed. 5.
Lubricate cylinder walls and piston (8) with engine oil.
6.
Turn engine unti l crank pin is at top center.
7.
Install new paper cylinder base gasket (3).
8.
Position PISTON INSERTER RING TOOL, Part No. HD-96331-57, over piston rings and slide cylinder (2) over assembly. Make sure cylinder (2) is aligned so push rod slots line up with tappet guides.
9.
Remove insertion ring and slide cylinder completely flush with base surface of crankcase.
10 .
Assemble cylinder head and rocker cover as described in INSTALLING CYLINDER HEAD.
CAUTION Piston ring end gap positioning should be no closer than 90°. Piston ring end gaps should be no closer than 10° from thrust face centerline.
ASSEMBLING (Figure 3-78) The XR-1000 aluminum pistons do not have a specif ic intake or exhaust pocket. However, if the piston is being reused , it is recommended that the piston be positioned the same way it was removed to ensure a correct fit.
3·70
GEARCASE (XR·1000) VALVE TAPPETS AND GUIDES
4.
Inspect roller for correct side play clearance. Wear limit is .008 ..012 in. clearance.
Disassembly
5.
Discard tappet guide O-ring (5) and replace.
1.
2.
Clean aU dirt from around crankcase and blow loose particles from area with compressed air. Remove rocker box and push rod assemblies. See the procedures for removing the rocker box and push rod assemblies given earlier In this section.
Assembly (Figure 3·79) 1.
If seal (2) was removed for replacement, coat seal with clean engine all and carefully press seal into top of tappet guide (3).
2.
Liberally coat tappet assembly and especially roller needles with engine oil, to ensure smooth beginning operation.
3.
Grease and install O-ring (5) over guide (3), careful· Iy push tappet through from bottom.
4.
Holding tappet up to extreme limit of travel, posi· tion guide and tappet assembly over gearcase.
NOTE To remove the rocker box at the rear cylinder it w/fl first be necessary to remove the engine from the vehIcle.
3.
See Figure 3·79. Remove tappet guide screw (1) and guide (3).
NOTE If tappet guide does not come loose after removing screw, tap lightly with rawhide hammer. Never pry tappet guide out.
Rotate tappet so it will properly align with cam and guide will align with mounting hole.
Mark all components to ensure reinstallation into same location. This will ensure an even wear pattern between tappet guide and cam surface.
Cleaning and Inspecting
CAUTION If tappet roller is positioned Incorrectly within guide (crosswise to guide and cam) serious damage may reo suit when Inserted Into crankcase.
5.
Carefully press guide assembly into gearcase. Tappet guides are a soft die cast aluminum; be ex· tremely careful not to damage guide while press· Ing.
6.
Install screw (1) and tighten to 8-14 ft·lbs torque.
A plug gauge should be used to accurately measure tappet guide Inner diameter.
7.
Recheck tappet free movement in guide.
Excessive tappet-guide clearance is serviced by fitting a new tappet and lor guide.
GEARCASE COVER AND CAM GEARS
1.
Clean all parts thorougly in solvent, blow dry with compressed air.
2.
Inspect valve tappets for excessive clearance in guide (3). Clearance should be .001 .. 003 in. (WEAR LIMIT).
NOTE
Inside and outside micrometers used for measuring tap· pets and tappet guides must be checked together to be sure they are adjusted to read exactly the same.
3.
Check tappet roller free play. Roller clearance on pin should be within the .0005· .0012 in. wear limit. Recommended service practice is lappet replacement. See SPECIFICATIONS.
General Carefully read the complete gearcase section before any service work is begun. For a gearcase to operate at its optimum, all components must be properly fitted and matched, changing one component can affect many others. It is Important
3·71
22
13 22
11~ ~J ""'6,)
1. Tappet guide screw 2. Tappet guide seal
3. Tappet guide 4. Tappet and roller 5. Tappet guide O·rlng 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
Rear cylinder Intake cam gear Rear cylinder exhaust cam gear Front cylinder Inlake cam gear Front cylinder exhaust ge.r Cam gear plate (2)
11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16.
Idler gear Gaarease cover gasket Flywheel shaft pinion gear Nut and loekwasher 011 pump drive gear Cam gear needle rolier bearing (4) 17. Rear Intake cam gear shaft bushing
Figure 3-79. Gearcase and Tappet (XR·1000)
3·72
I
~
18. Cam gear and timer shaft bushing 19. Pinion gear shaft bushing 20. Front intake cam gear shaft bushing 21. Front exhaust cam gear shaft bushing 22. Idler gear shaft bushing (2)
to know and understand all inspection procedures and how components interact.
3.
Inspect all parts for wear or damage. Replace as necessary.
Cam Gear Selection Disassembly (Figure 3·79)
Cam gears must be properly sized and fitted to each other to ensure Quiet and smooth operation.
1.
Thoroughly clean area around gearcase cover and tappets. Blow loose dirt from crankcase with com· pressed air.
2.
Remove any parts that will interfere with gearcase disassembly (I.e., exhaust pipe, footrest, air cleaner, brake pedal, etc.).
3.
Remove spark plugs.
4.
Posit ion engine rotation so that piston at rear cylinder is T.D.C. of the compression stroke. Remove access plugs and check that both valves are closed.
5.
,.
If more than .0005 in. backlash is noted between any two adjacent gears, disassemble gearcase and measure gears. 2.
loosen and remove front cylinder rocker box bolts.
7.
Remove ignition system, see SECTION 7.
8.
Place a pan under gearcase to collect oil. Remove cover screws and generator mounting screws. Carefully remove cover, discard old gasket.
NOTE Prior to changing any cam gears, check gear shaft fit within corresponding bushings; worn bushings can cause excessive backlash. See REPLACING NEEDLE BEARING AND BUSHINGS for measurement procedures.
3.
NOTE
Remove cam gears (6, 7, 8 and 9), and cam gear plates (10).
10.
Free idler gear (11) by lifting generator up and away from crankcase.
11.
Remove nut and lockwasher (14), slide pinion gear (13) and 011 pump drive gear (15) from pinion shaft.
Example: Gear 1 may have originally been coded Red but now measure for a blue code. An increase of one color code would mean replacing with a new red coded gear. 4.
Reassemble gearcase and recheck gear backlash, record readings.
5.
A second size increase of gears 1 and 3 may be necessary, but not more than two size jncreases should be made before also Increasing size of gear 5.
6.
Reassemble, run engine and check for noise:
Cleaning and Inspecting (Figure 3·79) 1.
2.
Thoroughly scrub gearcase compartment, cover and gears in solvent to remove oil and carbon depOSits. Blowout all cover oil passages and bushings with compressed air.
A size Increase of cam gears 1 and 3 may be necessary to correct excessive gear backlash. Increase gears 1 and 3 by one color code, above what gears measured.
If cover does not come loose on removal of screws, tap lightly with a rawhide hammer. Never pry cover off.
9.
See Figure 3·40. Measure cam gears with a micrometer over .105 in. diameter GAUGE PINS, Part No. HD-95632-79.
Compare gear diameter, as measured, with sizes on cam gear chart. A worn gear may be coded red, but may actually measure a blue code.
loosen rocker arm locknuts and rotate the rocker arms to obtain free play at the push rods.
6.
Proper cam gear backlash is .0000 - .0005 in. If backlash Is within tolerance between all gears no replacements should be required.
Gear whine or howl indicates gears are too tight, affected gears must be reduced in size. Rattling indicates there is still excessive gear backlash.
3·73
GEAR
NO.
1
3
2
5
6
Front Exhaust Outer
Pinion
Idler 3.0223 3.0213
Front Intake
2.3902 2.3912
1.8893 1.8903
1.8953 1.8943
2.3902 2.3912
1.2681 1.2671
1.8943 1.8933
2.3912 2.3922
1.8903 1.8913
1.8943 1.8933
2.3912 2.3922
1.2671 1.2661
3.0213 3.0203
1.9813 1.8923
1.8933 1.8923
2.3922 2.3932
1.8913 1.8923
1.8933 1.8923
2.3922 2.3932
1.2661 1.2651
3.0203 3.0193
White
1.8923 1.8933
1.8923 1.8913
2.3932 2.3942
1.8923 1.8933
1.8923 1.8913
2.8932 2.3942
1.2651 1.2641
3.0193 3.0183
Green
1.8933 1.8943
1.8913 1.8903
2.3942 2.3952
1.8933 1.8943
1.8913 1.8903
2.3942 2.3952
1.2641 1.2631
3.0183 3.0173
Yellow
1.8943 1.8953
1.8903 1.8893
2.3952 2.3962
1.8943 1.8953
1.8903 1.8893
2.3952 2.3962
1.2631 1.2621
3.0173 3.0163
Black
1.8953 1.8963
1.8893 1.8883
2.3962 2.3972
1.8953 1.8963
1.8893 1.8883
2.3962 2.3972
1.2621 1.2611
3.0163 3.0153
Color Code
Rear Intake
Brown
1.8893 1.8903
1.8953 1.8943
Blue
1.8903 1.8913
Red
Rear Intake Outer
4
Front Exhaust Inner
Rear Exhaust Inner
Replacing Needle Bearings and Bushings (Figure 3·79) NEEDLE BEARINGS Needle bearings (16) are press fit i nto crankcase. 1.
2.
3.
See Figure 3·41. Use SEARING PULLER, Part No. HD·95760-69, to pull worn needle bearing(s) (16) from crankcase.
Inspect each bushing against its corresponding cam gear shaft, idler gear shaft or pinion gear shaft. Correct fit should be: Idler Gear Shaft .............0005· .001 in. loose Cam Gear Shaft ....0005 - .002 in. loose Pin ion Gear Shaft ...........0005 - .0015 in. loose
Service wear limits have an expanded range. See SPECIFICATIONS.
Recheck clearance between new shaft and needle bearing to determine if bearing will also need replacement.
NOTE
Use a plug gauge to accurately measure Inner diameter of bushings. InsIde and outside micrometers used for measuring bushIngs and gear shafts must be checked together to be sure they are adjusted to read exactly the same.
2.
See Figure 3·45. Use a BUSHING AND BEARING PULLER, Part No. HD·95760·69, to remove bushings.
3.
Use a smooth surfaced disc or plate slightly larger than bushing flange when pressing bushing i nto position. Apply a few drops of Loctite STUD'N BEARING MOUNT, to outside diameter of bushing before installation. Press bushing until flange is tight against surface.
4.
After a new bushing is installed, it must be reamed to correct size. All bushings except idler gear (22)
See Figure 3-43. Use BEARING INSTALLATION TOOL, Part No. HD-97273·60, to install new needle bearing(s) (16). To avoid permanent damage to bearing, always press on printed side. Press bearing flush to .020 in. below surface.
3·74
1.
Measure the outer diameter of each shaft. Mea· surement should fall between .6860 in. and .6865 in. If shaft(s) is worn , it should be replaced.
Use a plug gauge to accurately measure inner diameter of needle bearings. InsIde and outside micrometers used for measuring needle bearings and cam gear shafts must be checked together to be sure they are adjusted to read exactly the same.
5.
Bushings (17,18, 19, 20, 22, Figure 3·79) are a press fit into crankcase and gearcase cover. See Figure 3·12.
Inspect each needle bearing against its corresponding cam gear shaft, correct fit should be .0005 ·.003 In. loose.
NOTE
4.
BUSHINGS
must be line reamed; using the corresponding bearing to guide reamer. If crankcase is not disassembled, use another right crankcase half. Special REAMERS are available for the rear cylinder intake cam shaft bushing, Part No. HD-94803-67 , and the pinion gear shaft bushing, Part No. HD-94812·77. Use a standard 11/16 in. diameter reamer for all other cam shaft bushings. Crankcase and gearcase cover must be assembled while bushings are being line reamed. Turn ream clockwise in bushing until it bottoms, continue to turn reamer clockwise as it is drawn out.
al igned . Assemble lockwasher and nut (14) to shaft. Tighten nut to 50 ft-Ibs torque. Bend tabs on lockwasher against flats on nut.
Installing Cam Gears and Gearcase Cover 1.
Install plates (10, Figure 3-78) in case recess with beveled side of hOles for cam shaft facing outward toward cam.
2.
Lubricate cam gear shafts and position in crankcase with marks on gears (1), (2), (3), and (4) in alignment as shown in Figure 3·38. Install idler gear (7) with la rge hole in idler shaft facing crankcase bushing.
3.
Position gearcase cover gasket on crankcase. Be sure to install a new "factory-made" gasket. Never use a "homemade" gasket as cover gasket has holes especially located for oil passages. If a hole is left out or put in wrong place, Oiling system will not function normally.
Ream the idler shaft bushings with case separated. Use REAMER, Part No. HD-94806-57, care· fully align and turn clockwise until it bottoms.
NOTE
After reaming, check shaft fit in new bushing. It may be necessary to make a second pass with reamer to attain proper fit. 5.
Clean all metal chips from case. Blowout all oil passages with compressed air.
4.
Install cover and tighten all screws evenly to 80-110 in·lbs torque.
5.
Apply sealant to front cylinder rocker box surface. Install rocker box and torque to specifications.
6.
Adjust tappets as described in Installing and Adjusting Tappets.
7.
Install Ignition system. See Section 7.
Installing Pinion Gear
8.
Reinstall any components removed to gain access to gearcase (I.e. exhaust, footrest, air cleaner).
Assemble 011 pump drive gear (15) to pinion gear shaft. Install pinion gear (13) with beveled edge towards crankcase. Timing marks on gear and shaft must be
9.
Readjust and re-time ignition system as described In Section 7.
Gearcase Assembly (Figure 3·78)
3·15
CRANKCASE (XR¡1000) FITTING ROD BEARINGS Assembly There is one important step that needs to be added to the flywheel reassembly procedure. The connecting rOds can only be installed one way. When assembling the connecting rods, be sure the side with the angular
boss, at the female rod, and the side with the large radius, at the male rod, are adjacent (lace each other) as shown in Figure 3-80. The side of the male rod with the larger radius is also narrower in the area where it 'ils between the forks 01 the female rod.
Note position of boss Forked or female rod
Male rod
Note position of radius
I>"
Assemble rods as shown
Figure 3-SO. Connecting Rod Installation (XR-1000)
3¡77
FUEL SYSTEM SUBJECT
PAGE NO.
1. Specifications............ . ... . ..... .. ... . ..... . . . 2. Carburetor .,.......... . ...... . .............. 3. 4.
. .... 4·1 . .4-3
Air Cleaner ........................... . 4-17 Fuel Supply Valve ......... . . .•.. . . ...• . ...•...• • . ... . .•...• • ...... 4·19
5.
Fuel Tank ...........
6. 7. 8. 9.
Carburetor (XA·1000) . . ......• _...............• _... • _........... 4·25 Air Cleaners (XA·1000) . . . . • • • . . •• . . .• • . . . • . . . ... . . • . . 4-37 Fuel Supply Valve (XR·1000) .. ... .. • ... . • •. • .••. .4-39 Fuel Tank (XR·1000) . . . . . . . . . . . . •. . . . . . . . . . . . ... 4-41
..............
. .... 4·21
I
SPECIFICATIONS JET SIZES
CAPACITY
1979 Model
Fuel Tank (U.S. Gallons)
Mainjet. . ..........•.. • .. • . Slow jet ........ .
.. No. 160 • . . •.......... No. 68
1982
1983
3.00 0.25
3.3 0.8
2.25
0.25 3.6 0.3
3.6 0.6
3.8
D.'
3.8 0.4
1980
1984
1981
XLH Total Reserve
1980·1982 Models Main jet . . ............. . Slow jet ...... • •.. . .• ' "
1979
..... NO.16S . .... NO.65
XLS Total Reserve
2.25 0.25 2.25
.25
2.25
.25
XLX
1983·1985 Models Main jet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . •. . . . . . ..... No. 160 Slow jet ........ . .. . . .. •. • .. • • ... . .. .... ... No. 52
Total
2.25
Reserve
0.25
2.25 0.25
TORQUES Carburetor mounting nuts
.... 19 ft-Ibs
4·1
CARBURETOR GENERAL
""
The carburetor is a horizontal, gravity fed type with a float operated inlet valve, an accelerating pump, a throttle stop screw for idle speed adjustment, and choke system with a fast idle speed adjustment. The fast Idle speed cam operates in conjunction with the choke to progressively raise the idle speed as the choke disc closes.
The carburetor has been specifically designed to control exhaust emissions. All jets are fjxed. The idle mixture has been preset at the factory. On 1979 models, the idle mixture screw has a limiter cap. Tune-up adJustments should be within the adjustment range that is available without removing the limiter cap. On 1980 and later models, the idle mixture screw has been recessed in the carburetor casting. The opening is sealed with a plug because it Is intended that the idle mixture be non·adjustable.
1. 2. 3. 4.
1010
Throttle lever Throttle stop screw Fast Idle cam Fast Idle adjusting screw
Figure 4-2. Carburetor -
1980
A high altitude carburetor conversion kit may be reo Qulred to Improve carburetion at altitudes over 4000 feet abOve sea level and should be installed where there is evidence of over·rlchness causing loss of smooth com· bustion, stumbling upon acceleration or other drive· ability problems at high altitudes.
""
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Throttle lever Throttle stop screw Fast Idle cam Fast Idle adjusting screw Low speed mixture screw limiter cap
Figure 4-1. Carburetor -
1979
CAUTION Adjusting mixture setting by procedures other than specified In this section may be In violation of Federal or State regulations.
1. Throttle lever 2. Throttle stop screw 3. Fast Idle cam 4. Fast Idle adjusting screw Figure 4-3. Carburetor -
1981 ·1982
4-3
fast idle cam. The fast idle cam increases engine speed as the choke knob is pulled out. By moving the choke knob, the choke valve and fast idle can be adjusted for a cold or a warm engine. 1. The choke knob has 4 basic positions. In the first position, choke knob all the way in, the choke plate is fully open and the engine operates at low idle speed. 2. When the choke knob Is pulled out to the second position, the choke plate is still fully open but the fast idle cam moves the throttle valve to the fast idle position. 3. In the third position, the choke plate Is half open and the throttle valve opens further.
1. Throttle lever 2. Throttle stop screw
3. Fast idle cam 4. Fast idle adjusting screw
Figure 4-4. Carburetor -
1983
4. With the choke knob all the way out, the choke plate is fully closed and the throttle valve is in its highest idle position for cold engine starting.
Fuel Supply System (Figure 4-7) Fuel from the gas tank passes through the inlet valve in· to float chamber. The fuel entering the chamber causes the lIoat to rise until it shuts oflthe fuel valve, stopping flow at a level pre-determined by float level selling.
_
t~t~ I~""(~';t;on
I,..
\ I
(- ....~v"y...... )- 2nd position
Iohok. ", ... fully open)
- >
./I' ltd position 'I II 4th position (choke plate
{-~":;:y" __
\\
,-
fully closed)
Figure 4-6. Setting the Choke
2. Throttle stop screw 3. Fast Idle cam
screw 5. V.O.E.S. port
Figure 4-5. Carburetor -
1964· 1985
CAUTION If motorcycles modified for high altitudes are to be operated at altitudes below 4000 feet, they must be con· verted back to standard to prevent possible engine damage due to over-lean fuel mixture. Overflow line
OPERATION Choke (Figure 4-6) The choke system is composed of a choke valve and a
4·4
Figure 4·7. Fuel Supply System
IDLE
Air - Blue Fuel- Red Air Fuel Mi)(ture - Purple
. - " __ Idle mixture screw
~~~~t--
Venturi
Idle port
Slow air jet Throttle "al"e Main air jet
Slow Jet bleed tube
Main
Main bleed tube
Slow jet
Main jet
Figure 4-8. Idle Circuli MID RANGE
Air - Blue Fuel - Red Air Fuel Mixture - Purple
Idle transfer ports Idle mixture screw
Venturi Idle port Mid range port
Slow air Jet
(.~"---H---- "rhr••III. Val". Main air Jet
~~~~f-~:::'~--
Main nozzle
Main bleed tube
Slow Jet bleed tube
jot
Main jet
Figure 4·9. Mid Range Circuit
4-S
HIGH SPEED
Air - Blue Fuel - Red Air Fuel Mixture - Purple
1'-_- "... mixture screw Venturi
,-<";\mr~ E~~L-- Idle port
Slow air jet
l~:=~~~Mr--Th"",tI.
valve
Main air jet
Slow jet bleed tube
Main nozzle
Main bleed tube
Slow let
Main jet
Figure 4-10. High Speed Circuit
ACCELERATING PUMP
Spring Pump lever Venturi
--f--
Throttle shaft
Pump nozzle Pump rod valve
Fuel
Diaphragm
Figure 4·11. Accelerating Pump 4-6
Idle Circuit (Figure 4-8)
2. Back screw out 1 V. turns.
The idle circuit functions at Idle, low and intermediate speeds when the throttle valve Is closed or only partially open. Fuel is first metered at the main jet and then is metered again as il passes through the slow jet. Air is drawn through the slow air jet and is mixed with fuel in the bleed tube portion of the slow jet. When the throttle valve Is closed, this air fuel mixture flows into the venturi almost entirely through the idle port where it is metered by the idle mixture screw.
3. Wilh screw in Ihis posilion, install limiter cap in cen· Iral posilion on adjusting screw.
''''
As the throttle valve opens slight ly the mixture also flows through the idle transfer ports as they become uncovered by the throttle valve.
Mid-Range Circuit (Figure 4-9) As the throttle valve opens, the airlfuel mixture from the slow jet Is drawn into the venturi through the id le transfer ports. When the throttle valve uncovers the mid range port, raw fuel from the float chamber is also drawn into the engine.
High Speed Circuit (Figure 4-10) During full throttle operation, fuel is metered through the main jet, mixed with air from the main air jet in the main bleed tube and this mixture is drawn into the ven· turi through the main nozzle.
Figure 4·12. Engine Side of Carburetor
Accelerating Pump (Figure 4-11) The accelerating pump system uses sudden throttle openings (rapid accelerations) to quickly inject raw fuel into carburetor venturi to provide extra fuel for smooth acceleration.
A,23
Main nozzle
Rapid throttle action, during the first half of throttle travel, pushes the pump rod down, flexing diaphragm. This flexing action forces raw fuel past a check valve in· to the venturI. The check valve prevents back flow during this stroke. A spring then returns diaphragm to its original position and a new supply of fuel flows in under the diaphragm from the float chamber for the next acceleration.
ADJUSTMENTS Low Speed .Mlxture Adjustment (1979) NOTE
On 1980 and later models, the low speed mixture is set at the factory and sealed. In normal service, the low speed mixture limiter cap should not be removed. Low speed mixture may be ad· justed within the limited range of the cap if necessary. If the limiter cap has been removed and low speed mix· ture altered, proceed as follows:
1. Carefully turn low speed mixture screw all the way in, clockwise, until just seated. Do not over tighten.
Accelerating pump nozzle Figure 4·13• .Air Cleaner Side of Carburetor
4. With the engine warm and the choke off, adjust the throttle stop screw so that engine idles at 900 rpm.
"" Valve fully closed
lip
f-_--I-_O.63 to 0.61 Inch (16 to 11 mm)
Figure 4¡14. Float Adjustment 5. Turn the limiler cap clockwise for a leaner mixture, counterclockwise for a richer mixture. The mixture should be adjusted to the leanest setting that results In a smooth Idle. 6. Recheck slow Idle speed seltlng and readjust to 900 rpm II necessary.
Slow Idle Adjustment With the engine at normal operating temperature and the choke knob all the way in (choke fully open), adjust the throttle stop screw (Figure 4-1 through 4-5) so the engine Idles at 900-950 rpm.
Fast Idle Adjustment Pull the choke to the second position. Turn the fast idle adjusting screw (Figure 4-1 through 4-5) In or out to set the fast Idle at 1500 rpm.
4. Assemble the float bowl and install the carburetor as described in each respecllve section.
REMOVAL 1. Remove the air cleaner and backing plate. See AlA CLEANER REMOVAL section. 2. See Figure 4-15, 4-16 or 4-17. Turn the fuel supply valve off. Disconnect the fuel hose (I), throttle cables (2) and choke cable (3) from the carburetor. On 1983 and 1984 models disconnect the vacuum hose. 3. On 1982 and earHer models, remove the two locknuts and lockwashers that fasten the carburetor to the manifold. Remove the carburetor and gasket. On 1983 and later models, remove the nut and washer securing the V.O.E.S. bracket to the carburetor mounting stud. Remove the stud and washer, then remove the lower bOlt and lockwasher. Remove the carburetor and gasket.
Float Level 1. Remove the carburetor as listed in the REMOVAL section. 2. Remove the float bowl as described under carburetor DISASSEMBLY. 3. See Figure 4-14. Use FLOAT LEVEL GAUGE, Part No. HD-947S2-77, and adjust the float as shown In the figure.
4¡8
DISASSEMBLY (Figure 4-18, 4-19, 4-20 or 4-21) Accelerating Pump 1. Remove two screws (31), one long screw (32), the accelerating pump housing (30), spring (29) and diaphragm (28). Remove the O-ring (27) from the housing (30).
TROUBLESHOOTING NOTE
Gal/outs refer to Figures 4-18, 4-19, 4-20 and 4-21
Overflow
Check for:
,. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
Remedy:
Worn inlet valve (18) or dirty inlet valve seat. Improper fuel level in float bowl (26). Worn float (20) mounting tabs. Worn float pin (5) or loose float retaining screw (6), Damaged float bowl gasket (25). Loose float bowl screws (31). Deformed float assembly (20).
Replace valve (18) or clean valve seat. Adjust float (20) mounting labs for correct fuel level. Replace float (20). Replace pin (5) or tighten screw (6). Replace gasket (25). Tighten screws (31). Replace float assembly (20).
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
Poor Idling Check for:
Remedy:
1. Idle speed improperly adjusted.
1.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
Damaged low speed mixture screw. Clogged bypass or idle port. Clogged low speed jet (22). Loose low speed jet (22). Air leaking into system. Excessive fuel from accelerating pump.
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
a. Adjust last and slow Idle speeds. b. Adjust low speed Idle mixture screw limiter cap to full rich or full lean limit (1979). Replace screw (1979). Clean. Clean jet (22). Tighten jet (22). Replace gasket (17) and tighten screws. Check accelerating pump rod (7) length.
Poor Fuel Economy Check for;
Remedy:
,.
Fuel level too high. 2. Clogged bleed tubes. 3. Loose Jets. 4. Idle speed improperly adjusted.
Adjust level of float assembly (20). Clean. Tighten. A. Adjust fast and slow idle speeds. B. Adjust low speed mixture cap within Its limits (1979). 5. Inspect choke and choke wire and adjust or replace. 6. Clean.
1. 2. 3. 4.
5. Choke not opening fully. 6. Dirty air cleaner.
Poor Acceleration Check for:
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Clogged accelerating system. Damaged accelerating pump diaphragm (28). low speed system improperly adjusted. Clogged low speed jet (22) or bleed tube. Fuel level too low.
Remedy:
1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Clean. Replace diaphragm (28). Adjust low speed system (1979). Clean. Adjust level of float assembly (20).
Hard Starting Check for:
1. 2. 3. 4.
Choke plate (36) not opera ling properly. Generally dirty carburetor. Loose carburetor mounting nuts. Fuel overflow.
Remedy;
1. 2. 3. 4.
Adjust choke system. Disassemble and clean. Tighten mounting nuts. Inspect float assembly (20) and Inlet valve (18) and adjust or replace.
4¡9
NOTE
Cal/outs refer to Ffgures 4-18, 4-19, 4-20 and 4-21
Poor Performance On Road Check for:
Remedy:
1. Idle speed improperly adjusted .
1. Adjust idle. 2. Inspect fioat assembly (20) and Inlet valve (18) and adjust or replace. 3. Inspect main jet (23) and tighten. 4. Check air cleaner backing plate and manifold mounting. 5. Correct accelerating pump rod (7) length. 6. Clean.
2. Fuel overflow. 3. Main Jet (23) loosened. Air leak In intake system .
<.
5. Faulty operation of accelerating pump. B. Dirty or clogged carburetor or air cleaner.
Poor High Speed Performance Check for:
Remedy:
1. loose main jet (23).
1. Inspect main jet and tighten. 2. Adjust float assembly (20) mounting tabs for correct fuel level. 3. Clean strainer. 4. Clean.
2. Improper fuel level In float chamber. 3. Dirt lodged in strainer In fuel tank. Clogged main jet (23) or main Jet air passage.
<.
Abnormal Combustion (Fuel Mixture) Check for:
Remedy:
,.
1. Generally d irty carburetor. 2. Dirty or clogged fuel line. 3. Air leaking Into system.
Disassemble and clean.
2. Clean luel line or replace. 3. Check mounting nuts lor tightness or replace gasket (17). Loss of Power (Fuel Insufficient)
Check for:
Remedy:
1. Clogged luel line.
1. Clean.
2. Dirty luel tank.
2. Clean.
3. Air leaking into system.
3. Check mounting nuts for lightness or replace gasket (17). <. Repair and adjust. 5. Clean strainer. B. Disassemble and clean.
<.
Accelerating pump not working. 5. Clogged fuel strainer In luel tank. B. Generally dirty carburetor.
loss of Power (AIr Insufficient) Check for: 1. 2. 3. 4.
4-10
Dirty air cleaner. Throttle cable not working. Correct Jetting for high altitude operation. loose Jets.
Remedy:
1. Clean or replace air cleaner element.
2. Check throttle cable and adjust or replace. 3. Install high altitude kit . 4. Tighten jets.
Carburetor Body 1. Remove the plug (24) to unscrew the low speed jet (22). Main jet (23) can be threaded out.
2 . Remove the nut (16), washer (15), throttle lever or
high idle cam assembly (14) and spring (13) from the throttle shaft. 3. If required , remove the brackets (2) and (12) by removing the screws (1) and (11).
CAUTION The throttl. valv. as••mbly should not be dlsas· s.mbled. Th.s. part. ar. m.tched speclfic.lly to the carburetor .nd .r. non .... pl.c.m.nt parts. If probl.m. arls. Involving th•••••••mbll •• the carbur.tor mu.t b. r.placed. 1. Fuel!!ne 2. Throttl. cable(')
3. Chok. wlr.
Figure 4·15. Carbur.tor Mounting - 1982 and Earll.r
~ ?fI~ \ ;:".(:-1'"
,_
,
~".~
~-' , .... 4 ,
',:J'
. ----.. 1. Fu.llln.
2. Throttl. c.bl •• 1. Fu.1 lin. 2. Throttl. cables
•
K-·: "" .•. I,
\
,
I
I
3. Chok. wire 4. Vacuum ho••
3. Choke wire 4. Vacuum hose
Figur. 4·17. C.rbur.tor Mounting - 1984·1985
Figure 4-18. Carburetor Mounting - 1983
Float Chamber 1. Remove the three screws (31), one screw (32), and float bowl (26). 2. Loosen float retaining screw (6) and remove the pin (5) and float assembly (20). 3. Remove the inlet valve (18) and clip (19) from the float assembly (20). 4. Remove the rubber boot (8) from the float bowl (26) and remove the accelerator pump rOd (7) from the rocker arm (40).
CLEANING, INSPECTION AND REPAIR Accelerating Pump (Figure 4-18, 4-19, 4-20 or 4-21) 1. lnspecl the accelerating pump diaphragm (28) lor hales, cracks or deformation and replace as necessary. 2. Replace the pump rOd (7) if It Is bent and replace the boot (8) if It is cracked .
49
'~
'"
1979 only. 3.
~, ~~~1{r~; (4 1.
2'
50
' ~ ~::;~.1
, 43
39,40,4~
'0'
44
'-
\
" ..
~
fi
\\J
~/ ~~~~
.~ 2~.V t-= 22~ ,U u.--
23. J (
\.!) ~ 27 24
7
8
~ V
I. '\
1
:;. .,
L·
.,
(
27
.......
31
n:'''~-
4. 18 17
29. Accelerating pump spring 30. Accelerating pump housing ~/ 3. Fast Idle adjusting screw 31. Screw and washer (5) 32. Screw and washer ~ 20 4. Choke cable screw 33. Overflow line clip _ 5. Float pin 34. Overflow line 6. Float retaining scraw 35. Fuel inlet lilting 7. AcceleraUng pump rod 36. Choke plate (not shown) I •. 8001 6 9. Throttle stop screw 37. Choke lever shaft ~ 10. Spring and wlSh.r. 38. Mounting flange 39. Accelerating pump lever Screw and washer 33 12. Throttle cable bracket 40. Rocker arm 13. Spring 41. Rocker arm spring 14. Throttle lever 42. Intermediate lever 43. Fast idle cam 34) 15. Lockwasher 16. Nut 44. Mounting stud 17. Gasket ~. Mounting nut and washer 18. Inlet valve 46. Intake manifold 19. Clip 47. Intake seal 20. Float assembly 48. Intake clamp 49. Limiter cap x 21. Screw and nut 22. Low speed jet 50. Idle mixture screw x 23. Main jet 51. Spring x 24. Plug 52. Washer 53. O.,ing x 25. Rubber gasket
26
1. Screw and washer
19 6
2. Choke cable bracket
1.-31 "'._.
~
'1
I
/"t
(N.6;i
~/~
I
28 29
30
32
.
\.'
I r
1 ) '"
26. Float bowl 27. O·rlng (2) 28. Accelerating pump diaphragm Figure 4·18. Carburetor -
Float Bowl 1. Blow any dirt out of the accelerating pump passage. Blow from the side opposite the nozzle to prevent the check valve Inside the bowl from closing. 2. Clean all dirt from Inlet valve and valve seat. 3. Replace the float if it is c racked or damaged.
4·12
x 1979 only.
1979·1980
Carburetor Body Clean the carburetor body In a cleaning solvent such as GUNK to remove varnish and carbon from the fuel and ai r passages. Blow dry with c ompressed air. Reverse the air flow through ali passages to remove all dirt particles.
\---:9
p-'
~2 F'O~" \ tiL
l" 'I
y' ' /-1
I
_ 12
\ ~~___ 35 \ I
1/
\
~ ,:~~~( i > ~~ "\\ '5 ,n'\ f&!2 ~ : ~~ I '9 I
\I '
43
'6
37
/f')
1.2?;,/
.
I
U,
./
23
r~
2'
~ .
rt r [
7 . ,8
I
./
I
If!~\\'--~ 28
V
25. 26.
6
33
1. Screw and w.. her 2. Choke cable brlcket 3. F..t Idle adju.tlng screw 4. Choke CIIble Icrew 5. Flolt pin 8. Flo.t ~t.lnlng IC~W 7. Acc.l.r.tlng pump rod 8. Rubber boot 9. Throttl •• top .c,..w 10. Spring .nd w••hera 11 . Sc~w .nd w•• her 12. Throttl. cabl. br.ck.t
48 21
Rubber "uke' Float bowl
27. O....ln" (mid range port) 27A. O-ring (Icceleretlng pump) 28. Acceler.tlng pump diaphragm 29. Acctleretlng pump spring 30. Acceler.tlng pump hou.lng 31. Screw and wI,her (5) 32. Screw and wuher 33. Overflow lin. clip 34. Overflow lin. 35. Fuel Inlet fitting 38. Choke pl,'e (not shown) 37. Choke IIYlr ,haft
""'''''' --30
~\
~'5
20
27A-----
3'
2'
m: ."
38
32
'3. Spring 14. F••t Idl. c.m ....mbly 15. Lockw'lhar 18. Nut 17.0.. k.t 18. Inl.t v.lv. 19. Clip 20. Float ....mbly 21. Scre• • nd nut
45.
Mounting nut and
22. low .pHd j.t 23. Main j.t
48. 47.
Intlke mlnltold Intlke ••• 1
24. Plug
48. Intake cllmp
38. Mounting IIlngl 39. Acetleretlng pump rod hoi, 40. Rocker arm 41 . W.. her 42.
Choke detent ball and aprlng
43. F..I Idle elm ... Mounting .Iud
lockwuher
FJgure 4·19. C.rburlltor - 1t81·1982 CAUTION N.ver ,c~P' c.rbon d.poslt.from the carbUrlltor u.lng It..1 In.trum.nt• . Do not u.. wl~ or drill. to clean
p....ge• • Anyone of the.. thlngl c.n ch.ng. the liz. 01 the p.... g. hoi.. or .Iter the c.rbu~tor. Do not u.. c.rbu,..tor cleaner on rubber or pl•• llc part• .
"'3
2,
\
48
25. Rubber gasket
33
32
1. 2. 3. 4.
Screw and wISher Choke cabl. bracket Fast idle adjusting screw Choke cabl. screw
5. Float pin 6. Float fatalnlng screw 7. Accelerating pump rod 8. Rubber boot 9. Throttle stop screw 10. Spring and washafa 11. Screw and washer 12. Throttle cabl. bracket
13. 14. 15. 16.
Spring Fa.t Idle cam assembly LockwlSher Nut
17. Gasket 18. Inlet valva
19. Clip 20. Float assembly 21. Screw and nut 22. Low speed Jet 23. Main Jet 24. Plug Figure 4-20. Carburetor - 1983
4·14
26. Float bowl 27. O·rlng (accelerating pump) 28. Accelerating pump diaphragm 29. Accelerating pump spring 30. Accelerating pump housing 31. Screw and washer (5) 32. Screw and washer 33. Overflow line clip 34. Overflow line 35. Fuellnl.1 fitting 36. Choke plata (not shown) 37. Choke lever shaft 38. Mounting flange 39. Accelerating pump rod hole 40. Rocker arm 41. Washer • 42. Choke detent ball and spring 43. Fast Idle cam 44. Mounting stud 45. Mounting nut and lockwasher 46. Intake manifold 47. Intake seal 48. Intake clamp
r.'"
t·.:1
'f
'"""
"
"
\ 48
1. Screw and washer 2. Choke cable bracket 3. Fast Idle adjusting screw 4. Choke cable screw 5. Float pin 6. Float retaining screw 7. Accelerating pump rod 8. Rubber boot 9. Throttle stop screw 10. Washers 11. Screw and washer 12. Throttle cable bracket
13 Spring 14. Fast Idle cam assembly 15. Lockwasher 16. Nut 17. Gasket 18. Inlet valve with clip 19. Clip 20. Float assembly 21. Screw and nut 22. Low speed jet 23. Main Jet 24. Plug
25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31 . 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. 39. 40. 41. 42. 43.
Rubber gasket Float bowl O-ring (accelerating pump) Accelerating pump diaphragm Accelerating pump spring Accelerating pump housing Screw and washer (5) Screw and washer Overflow line clip Overflow line Fuel Inlet fitting Fuel Inlet hose Choke levar shalt Accalaratlng pump lavar kit Spring Rockar arm Washer Choke datent ball and spring Fast Idle cam « . Mounting stud, washers and nut 45. Mounting boH and lockwashar 46. Intaka manifold 47. Intaka saal 48. Intake clamp
Figure 4·21. Carburetor - 1984 · 1985
4·15
ASSEMBLY (Figure 4-18, 4-19, 4-20 or 4-21) Carburetor Body
Accelerating Pump Inslall the diaphragm (28), spring (29), D-ring (27) and housing (30). Secure with the two screws (31) and one long screw (32).
1. Install the brackets (2) and (12) using the two screws (1) and (11).
2. Inslall the spring (13), throttle lever or fast idle cam assembly (14), washer (15) and nul (16) on the throttle shaft. 3. Install the low speed jet (22), plug (24) and main lei
1231.
INSTALLATION (Figure 4-18, 4-19, 4-20 or 4-21) 1. Fasten the carburetor and gasket to Intake manifold using the lockwashers and nuts (45). Tighten the nuts alternately to 6-10 It-Ibs torque.
Float Chamber to Install the rubber bool (8) on the 1I0ai bowl (26) and Install the accelerator pump rod arm (40).
m on the rocker
2. Install the Inlet valve (18) and clip (19) on the float (20). Secure the float (20) and pin (5) to the carburetor using the screw (6),
2. See Figure 4-15, 4·16 or 4-17. Connect the fuel hose (1), throttle cable (2), choke cable (3), vacuum hose (4), If applicable, to the carburetor. 3. For 1979 - 1983, run float bowl overflow tine (34) Figure 4·18, 4·19, 4·20 or 4·21 down between engine and generator.
NOTE
At this time, check the float level as described under ADJUSTMENTS.
3. Install the floal bowl to the carburetor body and secure it with the three screws (31),
....
4. For 1984 and 1985 models, run float bowl overflow line (34, Figure 4-21) down bet wen engine and oil filter. 5. Install the air cleaner and backing plate on the carburetor.
AIR CLEANER GENERAL
appear on the surface. ThIs indicates that dust Is drying Qut the all, Use the following steps to clean the fi/ter.
The air cleaner contains a plasUc foam element that traps air borne dust and dirt to keep It from entering the carburetor and engine. Remove the air cleaner cover and service the filter every 2500 miles, or more otten it the motorcycle is run In a dusty environment.
SERVICING AIR CLEANER 1982 and Earlier (Figure 4-22) 1983 and Later (Figure 4-23) 1.
Remove the hardware securing air cleaner cover to the backing plate.
2.
On 1982 and earlier models remove the grill , cover, baffle plate and element.
3.
On 1983 and later models remove the trim plate, cover, seal band and element.
4.
Remove the foam element from the wire mesh core and clean It with soap and hot water.
5.
Allow the element to dry, then apply about 101/4 tablespoons of engine oil to the element, either with an atomizer or by direct application. Thoroug路 Iy work the oil into the element.
6.
Install the element, baffle plate, cover and grill , or seal band, cover and trim and secure with mount路 ing hardware.
REMOVAL 1982 and Earlier (Figure 4-22) 1983 and Later (Figure 4-23) 1.
Remove the hardware securing the air cleaner cover to the backing plate, then remove the grill, cover, baffle plate and element or the trim, cover, seal band and element.
2.
Remove the hardware securing the backing plate to the support bracket and carburetor. Carefully
NOTE
The fifter should be cleaned and re-oiled if a film of dirt has built up covering the surface pores or if light spots
6
5
1. Socket head screw (3) 2. Washer (3) 3. Grill 4. Air cleaner cover 5. Baffle plate 6. Filter element 7. Seal strip 8. Locknut (2) 9. Screw (3) 10. Backing plate 11. Crankcase vent hose 12. Gasket 13. Locknut and washer (2) 14. Backing plate bracket (2) 15. Bolt and washer (2) 16. Mounting bracket (2) 17. Hose clamp 18. Gearcase cover titting
4
/ 7
Figure 4路22. Air Cleaner -
1982 and Earlier
4路17
move the backing plate forward to prevent damage to the gasket. 3.
Disconnect the crankcase hose from the backing plate discarding the hose clamp. If necessary, remove the seal strip from the backing plate.
INSTALLATION 1982 and Earlier (Figure 4·22) 1983 and Later (Figure 4·23) 1.
Connect the crankcase vent hose to the backing plate, using a new hose clamp.
2.
Assemble the mounting hardware to the backing plate. Position the carburetor to backing plate gasket on the screws or bolts then install the back· ing plate. Tighten the backing plate to carburetor screws or bolts to 74-80 in·lbs torque. Tighten the backing plate to support nuts to 10·15 ft·lbs torque.
3.
Service the air cleaner element as previously described, then install the element, seal strip or seal band, baffle, cover, trim or grill and secure with hardware.
INSPECTION AND REPAIR 1.
Inspect the backing plate to carburetor gasket for cracks, deterioration and damage. Replace gasket if damaged.
2. Check the vent hose, seal band or seal strip for deterioration and other damage. Replace as need· ed.
1. Phillips head screw (2)
2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.
Trim Cover Seal band Filter element Backing plate Gasket Support bracket Stud
10. Lockwasher 11. Nut 12. Bolt 13. Lockwasher 14. Nut 15. Bolt (3) 16. External tooth washer (3) 17. Vent hose
Figure 4·23. Air Cleaner -
4·18
1983 and Later
FUEL SUPPLY VALVE GENERAL (Figure 4-24)
REMOVAL
The fuel supply valve is located on the underside of the fuel tank. The gasoline supply to the carburetor Is shut off when the handle Is In the horizontal poSition. Turn¡ ing the handle down to the vertical position turns on the main supply. Turning the handle up to the vertical position turns on the reserve supply. Valve should always be in the OFF position when the engine is not running.
WARNING Gasoline Is extremely flammable and highly exploslye under certain conditions. Do not smoke or allow open lIame or apar1l:s anywhere In the area when r.fuellng or servicing the fuel system. 1. Remove the luel hose at the carburetor and drain the gasoline Into a proper, clean container.
1979¡1981
2. Turn the fitting and remove the valve assembly. Gasoline
strainer Handle position for reserve supply on
CLEANING, INSPECTION AND REPAIR ~,lt---
Fitting
1. Clean or replace the filter strainer located on top of the gas valve. 2. Flush the tank to remove all dirt.
Handle In off position
INSTALLATION 1. Coat the valve threads with Locute PIPE SEALANT WITH TEFLON and tighten IllIIng .
Figure 4-24. Fuel Supply Valve
2. Connect the hose to the carburetor.
4-'9
FUEL TANK GENERAL The fuel tank is a one piece welded lank, manufactured in several different configurations.
CLEANING, INSPECTION AND REPAIR 1.
Clean the tank interior with commercial cleaning solvent or a soap and water solution. Plug the tank openings and shake the tank to agitate the clean路 ing agent. If necessary, soft metallic balls or pellets may be added to the tank to assist in loosening depOSits.
2.
Flush the tank thorougly after cleaning and allow it to air dry.
The tank interior is treated to resist rusting. However, if the motorcycle Is to be stored for a long period of time, the tank should be drained and the interior treated with a one-Io-one oil/fuel mixture. This will protect the lank during storage. NOTE
To be sure the filler cap is securely fastened to the tank on 1983 and later models, turn the cap until at feast three clicks 8re heard.
REMOVAL The fuel tank is secured to the frame with screws, washers, spacers, and locknuts at the front, and with a screw, washers and nut, spring and clip or a strap at the rear. See Figure 4-25 for typical mounting hardware.
WARNING
If all traces of fuel are not purged, an open flame may result In 8 tank explosion.
3.
Where applicable, inspect the interconnect line and fu el line tor cuts, cracks or holes. Replace lines as needed.
4.
Inspect the rubber mounts and bumpers for wear and deterioration. Replace as needed.
WARNING Gasoline Is extremely flammable and highly explosive under certain conditions. Do not smoke or allow open flame or sparks anywhere In the area when refueling or servicing the fuel system. 1.
2.
3.
Remove the fuel line from the carburetor and drain the fuel from the tank into a clean container. Remove the fuel supply valve if necessary to facilitate cleaning and repair. See FUEL SUPPLY VALVE. See Figure 4-26. On 1983 and later XLS models only, remove three screws from the center panel, disconnect the tachometer, remove the filler cap and lift the center panel from the tank. Also remove the interconnect line, discarding the clamps. On all models, remove the front and rear mounting hardware and remove the tank trom the motorcycle. Discard the locknuts.
INSTALLATION 1.
If removed, install the fuel valve, then position the fuel tank on the motorcycle. Make sure the wiring harness does not get pinched between the tank and frame.
2.
Install the front and rear mounting hardware. Tighten the mounting screws (with locknuts) to 19 ft路lbs torque.
3.
Where applicable, install the interconnect line us路 ing new clamps.
4.
On 1983 and later XLS models, connect the tachometer electrical leads to the tach after positioning the tachometer in the center panel. Position the center panel on the fuel tank and secure it with the three screws.
5.
Connect the fuel line to the carburetor using a new clamp, then refuel the tank and check for leaks.
4路21
~10
~11 ~
3
I
4
i "'~
I I I ~
l1A~
13~
9
1. Fuel tank 2. Nut 3. Washer 4. Bolt 5. Bolt 6. Washer 7. Spacer 8. Nut 9. Fuel tank
10. Strap end 11 . Strap 12. Nut 13. Bumper strip 14. Clip 15. Spring 16. Bolt 17. Washer 18. Well nut
Figure 4·25. Typical Fuel Tank Mounting Hardware
4·22
~14
~ 15
""
Interconnect
Q}bQ} ~
Mounting tab /
~
~ \!i Figure 4-26. Fuel rank Mounting and leter XLS Models
1983
4-23
CARBURETOR (XR·1000) specified in this section may be in violation of Federal or State regulations.
GENERAL Fuel Supply (Figure 4-27) The carburetor is a horizontal , slide valve type with a float operated inlet valve, an accelerating pump, a throttle stop screw for idle speed adjustment and an independent starting circuit for cold starts. The carburetor is gravity fed. The carburetor has been specifically designed to control exhaust emissions ..AII jets are fixed. The idle mixture has been preset at the factory.
CAUTION Adjusting mixture setting by procedures other than
OPERATION Fuel Supply (Figure 4-27) Fuel from the gas tank flows through the inlet banjo fitting and filter, past the inlet valve and into the float chamber. The fuel entering the chamber causes the float to rise until it closes the inlet valve, stopping fuel flow at a pre-determined float level setting.
Air - Blue Fuel - Red Air Fuel Mixture - Purple
Fuel inlet Vent passage
.""r-
----+J!I
Fuel filter
'-'~--Inlet
valve seat
----Inlet valve needle
Fuel level
- - - - Float fork Float
Float chamber
Figure 4·27. Fuel Supply
4·25
Starting Device (Choke) (Figure 4¡28) The starting device is an Independent circuit, consisting of a starter knob, starter valve, emulsion tube, starter jet, and passages in the carburetor. The air/fuel mixture Is delivered directly to the main barrel (venturi), bypassing the carburetor main supply system. The starter valve is opened by lifUng the starter knob and rotating it slightly clockwise or counterclockwise. The valve will remain in the raised position until the
knob is rolated further and returns to the closed position. With the engine cranking, vacuum in the main barrel (venturi) downstream from the throttle slide draws the starting air/fuel mixture from the starter fuel passage. The mixture combines with additional air in the starter air passage, then is delivered to the main barrel.
The slarting mixture is formed by fuel metered through the slarler jel mixed with air from the float chamber and atomized through the emulsion tube holes.
Air - Blue Fuel - Red Air Fuel Mixture - Purple
Slide closed
~~t:::::.::::::,::;!.. Main barrel
Starter valve
Starting mixture delivery port Starter air passage
rr~~;;~~;;;;;:;==F:::S:~ Starter jet air passage
Starter fuel pas",a.'/ Emulsion tube
Starter jet ----lIL~
Figure 4¡28. Starting Device
4¡26
Idle Circuit (Figure 4-29) The idle circuit functions at idle and low speeds and also during the transition from idle mixture del ivery , to the beginning of delivery from the high speed circuil.
At idle speed , weak vacuum on the upstream side of the throttle slide is insufficient to activate the high speed circuit. Greater vacuum on the downstream side of the slide will draw the mixture from the idle mixture delivery port.
Air - Blue Fuel- Red Air Fuel Milc:ture - Purple
Fuel metered through the Idle jet and air metered through a calibrated passage mix and are drawn into the main barrel. The idle mixture is pre-set at the factory and is non-adjustable.
Idle speed Is controlled by the idle speed adjusting screw. Turning the screw clockwise raises the thrott le slide sligh tly, allowing more air to enter the main barrel increasing speed . Turning the screw counterclockwise lowers the slide, decreasing speed .
Throttle slide
Idle speed screw Throttle slide Idle speed screw Idle mixture delivery port
Idle air passage
L-...,."-------- Low speed jet
Figure 4-29. Idle Circuit
4-27
Mid路Range (Figure 4路30) As the throttle slide opens, the increased ai r flow into the main barrel req ui res that more fuel be made available. Some of the ai r /f uel mixtu re is drawn into the main barrel th rough the progression delivery port. This port is Immed iately upstream from the throttle slide closing edge and will supply the additional airffuet mixture needed until the main circuit is activated .
Air - Blue Fuel - Red Air Fuel Mix ture - Purple
Throttle slide Progression delivery port Idle mixture delivery port
Mixture passage idle & progression
Figure 4路30. Mid路Range Circuit
4-28
the engine. The vacuum is sufficient to draw luel from the atomizer jet.
High Speed Circuit (Figure 4-31) Following the progression or mid-range phase, on fur¡ ther opening of the throttle, the full throttle (high speed) circuit is activated. A partial vacuum is created in the main intake due to the speed of the air being drawn into
The fuel metered by the mai n jet and further regulated by the atomizer jet is mixed with air from the air channel and the main barrel. The atomizer outlet area depends on the position of the tapered needle moving through the outlet.
Air - Blue Fuel - Red Air Fuel Mixture - Purple
Atomizer needle Main barrel
Atom~:-~~~~~~~~ Air channel
Mainjet
Figure 4¡31 . High Speed Circuit
4-29
Accelerator Pump (Figure 4-32)
Slow Idle Adjustment
The accelerating pump system uses sudden throttle openings (rapid acceleration) to inject fuel into the carburetor for rapid acceleration.
When the throttle slide is opened, the cam follower lever rides up the cam and acts directly on the pump diaphragm. The diaphragm, through the delivery valve and pump jet , pumps fuel into the main barrel upstream of the throttle slide. When the throttle is closed, the diaphragm returns to its original position and draws fuel from the float chamber through the inlet valve.
ADJUSTMENTS Low Speed Mixture Adjustment The low speed mixture adjustment is set at the factory and is non-adjustable.
With the engine operating at normal operating temperature and the starting devices (choke) in the closed position, turn the idle speed adjusting screws on each carburetor clockwise to increase speed or counterclockwise to decrease speed until the engine idles at 900 - 950 rpm_
Float Level Adjustment (Figure 4-33) Remove the carburetor as described REMOVAL section.
2.
Remove the float bowl nut ana Tloat bowl.
3.
Place the carburetor on a flat, level surface, air intake side down.
4.
With the needle valve seated, measure the dis-. tance from the float bowl gasket surface to the
Air - Blue Fuel - Red Air Fuel Mixture - Pu rple
Pump diaphragm - -__ Spring ------.l Volume adj. screw Actuation cam
Delivery valve
Cam follower
~:::::::j
Pump jet
-''-_...J Inlet valve
Figure 4¡32. Accelerator Pump 4-30
Throttle slide
in
t~
1.
edge 01 the float. If the dimension is not within specified range, bend the float arms until the correct reading is obtained. 5.
Assemble the float bowl to the carburetor body and secure with nut.
6.
Install the carburetor on the motorcycle as "described in the INSTALLATION section.
0.69 . 0.73 inch (17.5 - 18.5mm)
\ o
Figure 4-34. Carburetor Synchronization
CAUTION
Table surface
Figure 4-33. Float Adjustment
Throttle cable adjusting screws and locknuts are delicate parts. Handle carefully. Loosen adjusting screw only 2 or 3 turns.
4.
If necessary turn the idle setting adjusting screws on both carburetors in or out to provide an idle speed of 900 - 950 rpm.
5.
If using Carb路Stix, remove the rubber cap plugs from the vacuum ports on the engine side of the carburetors. Connect the Carb路Stix tubes to the vacuum ports. Adjust the idle speed adjusting screws to obtain equal readings within 2 em. of mercury (one scale graduation) at 900 - 950 rpm. Clockwise rotation of the screws lowers vacuum reading and increases speed.
6.
If using the Synchronizer, place the flat circular end of the tool against the front carburetor velocity stack. Observe the rise of the float in the tube and note the level.
7.
Place the Synchronizer against the rear carburetor velocity stack. Observe the rise of the float in the tube and note the level. If the float rises in the tube to the same level for both carburetors, the carburetors are synchronized at idle. If the float does not rise to the same level at idle, turn the idle setting adjusting screw (1) on the rear carburetor in or out until the float is at the same level as for the front carburetor. This indicates the throttle slide height is the same for both carburetors.
8.
After synchronization is achieved, turn each idle setting adjusting screw an equal amount until the engine is idling at 900-950 rpm. Recheck the synchronization with the Synchronizer tool.
9.
Increase the engine speed to 2500 rpm and lock the throttle by tightening the throttle tension screw.
Accelerator Pump The amount of fuel injected by the accelerator pump may be changed by loosening the locknut and turning the adjusting screw counterclockwise to increase the fuel amount or clockwise to decrease the fuel amount.
Carburetor Synchronization Synchronization is achieved by measuring the vacuum in each carburetor velocity stack using MULTIPLE CARBURETOR SYNCHRONIZER, Part No. HD-23433, Figure 4-34, or a manometer (such as Carb-Stix), then adjusting the throttle slides until the vacuum measurement is the same for each carburetor. A float in a tube on the tool or the mercury height in the manometer, provides a visual indication of the amount of vacuum. 1.
Run the engine at idle until it reaches normal operating temperature. Be sure the cold starting device (choke) is in the closed position when the engine is warm.
2.
If using the Synchronizer, disconnect the crankcase vent hose from the rear air filter, then loosen each air filter clamp and carefully remove the air filters. If using Carb路Stix, air cleaners can remain on the carburetors.
3.
Loosen the locknuts where the throttle cables enter the top of the carburetors. Turn the adjusters clockwise to give free play to the cables. Maintain a 0.06 in. gap between the adjusting screw hex路 agon and the locknut.
4-31
CAUTION Increase or decrease engine speed slowly. Rapid throt· tie movement may provide sufficient vacuum to pull mercury from the Carb·Stix tubes into the engine. 10. Check synchronization of carburetors as described in Steps 5 through 8. If Carb-Stix mercury column heights or synchronizer float levels are not equal, ad· justment is made at the cable adjusters (2).
11.
Adjust the carburetor with the higher vacuum reading' by rotating the cable adjuster screw coun· terclockwise until the synchronizer float levels are the same, or the Carb·Stix mercury columns are within 2 cm .
12.
Loosen the throttle tension screw and slowly reo turn the throttle to idle.
13.
Slowly increase engine speed to 2500 rpm and reo check synchronization. Readjust if necessary.
CAUTION Throttle cable adjusting screws and locknuts are del · Icate parts. Handle carefully and do not overtighten.
14
Figure 4·35. Carburetor Removal
Recheck synchronization at idle speed following steps 5 . 8. Repeat if necessary. 1.
Remove the air cleaners (6) from the carburetor.
2.
Make sure t he fuel supply valve (1) is in the OFF position, then disconnect the fuel tine at the car· buretor banjo fitting (2).
3.
Loosen the cable adjuster locknut (3) then turn the adjuster all the way into the slide cover (5).
4.
Loosen the slide cover screws until the sl ide cover (6, Figure 4-36) is free. Remove the slide assembly (items 2, 3, 5, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 12) as a unit from the carburetor. Refer to DISASSEMBLY section for removal of the slide assembly from the motorcy· cle.
5.
Loosen the intake manifold hose clamp (4, Figure 4·35) and slide the carburetor from the manifold .
15. Slowly increase engine speed to 2500 rpm, reo checking synchronization and readjusting cables as needed .
16. Continue recheck procedures unti l synchroniza· tion is achieved both at idle and at 2500 rpm.
WARNING After synchronization is obtained, be sure the throttle friction screw Is loosened enough to permit free throttle grip rotation. 17.
Adjust the throttle cable free playas described in Section 2. Sufficient free play should be available to prevent putting pressure on the carburetor slides by the cable when the hand lebars are turned to the right and left stops.
18.
Stop the engine and carefully instatl the air filters, if needed. Make sure the worm drive clamp is secured but not cutting i nto the rubber sleeve on the filters.
19.
Connect the crankcase vent hose to the rear air fi lter.
20.
(Figure 4·36) Accelerator Pump 1.
Remove the three screws (49) and washers (50) secu ring the accelerator pump cover (54) to the carburetor body (58).
2.
Remove the diaphragm (55) and remove and dis· card gasket (56).
3.
If necessary, remove the delivery valve (53) from the cover (54). Remove and discard gasket (52).
If removed, install vacuum port rubber cap plugs .
REMOVAL (Figure 4·35) 4·32
DISASSEMBLY
\,~=--
0 -34
~-35 38. Adapter 39. Idle speed jet
1. Vent tube
2. Spring 3. Cam follower
:: ~:~r1lng device
~: ;~'::gassembly 8. Plate 9.0·rlng 10. Slide 11.0·rlng 12. 13 Tape H rad needle 14' I OS8 clamp
15: ~:~.c'::.,:lfOld hose 16. Clamp P 17. Fuel lin. 18. Clamp
19. Sp' Idle s peed screw 20 • r ng 21. Washer 22. 0·rlng 23. Filter disc 24. Banjo fitting 25. Gasket 26. Screw 27. Gasket ~. ,'",let valve seat
n at 30· F' ·
oat
need'e valve
31 . Gasket 32. Float bowl 33. Shaft 34. 35. 36. 37.
Gasket Nut Air filteT High speed jet
p 41. Main jet at/u,m inlet valve 42. Startl ng m zer
40. Accelerator 43. o.rlng
device Jet
44. Rubber sle8ve 45. Air Intake
46. Clamp
47. locknut 48. 49. Accelerat Screw or pump adjusting screw 50 . WasheT 51. 52. 53. 54.
Gasket Gasket Delivery valve Cover
55. Diaphragm 56. Gasket 57. 58. Aceelerat Body or pump jet
Figure 4·36 . Carburetor 4-33
4.
Remove the pump jet (57) from the carburetor body (58).
Float Chamber 1.
Remove nut (35), gasket (34), float bowl (32) and gasket (31). Discard gaskets (31) and (34).
2.
Remove shaft (33), float (30) and needle valve (29). Separate the needle valve from the float.
Throttle Slide 1.
Throllle Slide 1.
Thoroughly clean the slide (10) and tapered needle (12) with solvent.
2.
Inspect the cam follower (3) for wear. Replace if needed .
Carburetor Body 1.
Compress the spring (7) between the cover (6) and the slide (10) until the throttle cable can be disconnected from the slide. The cable remains on the motorcycle.
2. Hold ing the slide (10) and cover (6) allow the spring (7) to extend to its free length . 3.
Remove the spring (7), plate (8) and tapered¡needle (12).
4.
Remove the cover (6) from the adjuster. Remove and discard cover O-ring (11).
Carburetor Body
Clean the carburetor body in a cleaning solvent such as GUNK to remove varnish and carbon from the fuel and air passages. Slow dry w ith compressed air. Reverse the air flow through all passages to remove all dirt particles. CAUTION
Never scrape carbon deposits from the carburetor using steel intruments. Do not use wire or drills to clean passages. Anyone of these things can change the size of the passage holes or alter the carburetor. Do not use carburetor cleaner on rubber or plastic parts. 2.
Clean the inlet filter disc (23) with solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Replace filter if damaged .
3.
Replace any damaged parts showing an excessive wear pattern.
1.
Remove the banjo fitting (24) and filter screen (23).
2.
Remove fuel inlet valve seat (28) and gasket (27) only if replacement is necessary.
ASSEMBLY
3.
Remove the id le jet (39), main jet (37), atomizer (41), starting device jet (42), accelerator pump inlet valve (40), idle speed adjusting screw (19), spring (20), washer (21), and O-ring (22) only if necessary for cleaning or replacement.
Carburetor Body
4.
Remove the starting device (4).
CLEANING, INSPECTION AND REPAIR
1.
Install the idle jet (39), atomizer (41), main jet (37) and starting device jet (42) if removed.
2.
Install the accelerator pump inlet valve (40).
3.
Install the accelerator pump jet (57). The flat surface on the jet must mate with a flat surface in the bore before assembly is possible.
4.
Install the starting device (4) if removed.
5.
Place the filter disc (23) in its bore. Install the banjo fitting (24) so the hose stem is approximately 45 from vertical towards the intake manifold hose connection.
Accelerator Pump 1.
Inspect the diaphragm (55) tor holes, deterioration or other damage and replace as needed .
2.
Clean the passage in the delivery valve (53) if needed.
0
6.
Float Chamber 1.
2.
4¡34
If removed , install the idle speed adjusting screw (19), spring (20), washer (21) and O-ring (22). Turn the screw in several turns.
Throtlle Slide
Clean all dirt from the inlet needle valve (29) and valve seat (28).
1.
Install a new cover O-ring (11) in the slide cover (6).
Check the float for damage. Replace if necessary.
2.
Install the slide cover (6) on the cable adjuster
which is on the motorcycle. Turn the cable adjuster all the way into the cover.
2.
Position the diaphragm (55) on the locallng pins.
3.
install the cover (54) and secure with screws (49) and washers (SO).
4.
II removed, Install the delivery valve (53).
3.
Assemble the tapered needle (12) in the slide (10).
4.
Position the spring (7) on the cover (6). Compress the spring making sure the throttle cable goes through the center of the spring.
5.
Slide the plate (8) onto the cable and against the spring.
1.
Install the cable end in the key slot in the bottom of the slide (10). Push the tapered needle (12) upward to engage the mating hole in plate (8).
If removed, Install the intake manifold hose (14) on the carburetor main barrel , and secure with hose clamp (13).
2.
Slide the Intake manifold hose onto the Intake manifold. The hose must be installed to the 'X' stamped on the manifold. Secure the hose with clamp (15).
3.
Position the slide assembly In the slide bore and compress the spring so the cover is on the carburetor body. Check for free movement of slide. If slide does not move freely, the cam follower may be binding. Allow the cover to rise Slightly then push it down again. When free slide movement is attained tighten the cover mounting screws.
4.
install air filter (36) and secure with clamp (46).
6.
7.
INSTALLATION
Slowly release the spring (7) making sure the plate is positioned properly in the slide (10).
Float Chamber 1.
Assemble the needle valve (29) to the float (30).
2.
Position the 110at in the carburetor body and secure with shaft (33).
3.
Install a new gasket (31) in the float bowl (32) recess. Position the bowl on the body and secure with nut (35) and new gasket (34).
5. Adjust carburetors as described In AOJUSTMENTS section.
Accelerator Pump 1.
Position new gasket (56) on the locating pins on the carburetor body.
WARNING After adjustment, be sure the throttle friction screw is loosened enough to permit free throttle grip rotation.
4-35
AIR CLEANERS (XR-1000) GENERAL The one piece wet type air fil ter elements trap airborne dust and dirt, to prevent their ent ry In to the carburetor and engine. Remove the air filters and service them every 2500 miles, more often under dusty road conditions.
SERVICING AIR CLEANERS (Figure 4-37) 1.
Disconnect the crankcase breather hose at the rear air filter.
2.
Loosen the clamp and carefully remove bot h t he rear and Iront air fitter elements.
2. Air filter Figure 4¡37. Ai r Cleaners
3.
4.
To clean fllter, roll it in a shallow amount of filter cleaner/degreaser (3/4 the depth of one pleat). Do not lei dirty solution run to inside of filter. Let fi lter sit for 5 minutes to dissolve dirt. From the inside out, rinse the filter with cold water. Shake and allow to air dry. Do not use air hose! Ae-oil filter using Air Fi lter Oil. Apply along the full length of each pleat and allow to set untilihe element Is a uniform color_ Allow excess 011 to drain oft.
INSTALLATION 1.
Install the air filters on Ihe carburetors and secure with clamps. Be sure the worm drive clamps are secure, but not culling Into the rubber sleeves on the Illters.
2.
Connect the crankcase breather hose to the rear air fi lter.
4¡37
FUEL SUPPLY VALVE (XR-1000) GENERAL (Figure 4-38) Gasoline strainer
The fuel supply valve Is located under the right side of the fuel lank. The gasoline supply to the carburetors Is shut off when the handle is in the horizontal position. Turning the handle down to the vertical position turns on the main supply. Turning the handle up to the vertical position turns on the reserve supply. Valve should always be in the OFF position when the engine is not running.
Handle position for reserve supply on
REMOVAL WARNING Handle position lor main supply on
Gasoline is extremely flammable and highly explosive under certain conditions. Do not smoke ao allow open flame or sparks anywhere In the area when refueling or servicing the fuel system.
Figure 4-38. Fuel Supply Valve
1. Remove the fuel hoses at the carburetors and drain the gasoline into a proper, clean container.
2. Turn the fitting and remove the valve assembly.
CLEANING, INSPECTION AND REPAIR 1. Clean or replace the filter strainer located on top of the fuel supply.
2:
Flush the tank to remove all dirt.
INSTALLATION 1.
Coat the valve threads with Loctlte PIPE SEALANT WITH TEFLON and tighten fitting.
2.
Connect the hoses to the carburetors.
4-..
FUEL TANK (XR¡1000) GENERAL The fuel tank is a one piece welded tank. The fuel tank is treated to resist rusting. However, when the motorcycle is not operated for a lone period 01 time, tanks should be drained and treated with an oil/fuel mixture of equal proportion. This will protect the inside of the tank while the motorcycle is stored. NOTE
Be certain the filler cap is securely fastened to the tank. Turn the cap until at least three clicks are heard.
REMOVAL WARNING Figure 4-39. Fuel Tank Mounting
Gasoline Is extremely flammable and highly explosive under certain conditions. Do not smoke or allow open flame or spar1ts anywhere in the area when refueling or servicing the fuel system.
WARNING
1.
Place a suitable, clean container beneath the carburetors.
It all traces of fuel are not purged, an open flame repair may result In a tank explosion. Extreme caution should be taken when repairing tanks.
2.
Disconnect the fuel lines at the carburetors, then turn the gasoline supply valve to the "ON" position and allow the tank to drain.
INSTALLATION
3.
(See Figure 4-39). Remove the locknut, screw, and washers at the rear of the tank.
4.
Remove the nut, washers, spacer and bolt from the front of the tank. The Ignition coil and cable drum bracket and horn bracket also mount on this bolt.
Position the fuel tank on the motorcycle, then loosely Install the rear mounting screw, washer and locknut. 2.
Start the front mounting screw through the horn bracket, spacer, fuel tank and the ignition coil and cable drum bracket. Be sure the external tooth lockwasher Is between the screw head and horn bracket. Install and tighten the locknut.
3.
Tighten the rear locknut.
4.
Connect the fuel lines to the carburetors, then refuel the tank and check for leaks.
REPAIR Many tanks can be repaired by arc welding, gas welding or soldering . Only people trained in this type of work should be allowed to make any repairs.
...,
EVAPORATIVE EMISSIONS CONTROL 1985 CALIFORNIA MODELS ONLY
General (Figure 4·40)
10
~~~
All 1985 model year Harley-Davidson motorcycles sold in the state of California are equipped with an evaporative emission control system. This system is designed to meet the CARB regulations in effect al the time of manufacture.
if XLS
only
The system is virtually maintenance free. All that should
.
/4
be required is periodic inspection to be sure hoses are properly routed and not kinked or blocked and that all
fittings are secure. Mounting hardware should also be checked for tightness. The purpose of the evaporative emissions system is to prevent fuel hydrocarbon vapors from escaping into the atmosphere. When the engine is not running, any pressurized build-up of hydrocarbon vapors are directed through the vapor valve and stored in the charcoal canister. At engine start-up, a vacuum line from the carburetor will purge or draw off the vapors in the canister and direct them to the engine combustion chambers, The vapor valve prevents gasoline from escaping through the vapor vent when the vehicle is tipped at an abnormal angle. A large diameter hose purges the canister with fresh air from the air cleaner through the air cleaner backing plate. 1. 2_ 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
Canister Mounting (Figure 4·41) The canister is mounted to the left frame down tube. CAUTION Be certain to mount the canister in the location specified. The canister must be mounted below the carburetor for the system to be operational.
Vapor Valve Mounting (Figure 4·42) The vapor valve is mounted to the right frame down tube. CAUTION The vapor valve must be maintained in an upright at· titude and the proper end must be towards the top or ex· cessive fuel tank pressures may occur.
Canister Down tube Ty·wrap Vapor valve Air cleaner Carburetor Hose, .190 10
8. 9. 10. 11. 12_ 13_ 14.
Hose, _235 10 Hose, .500 10 Gas tank Hose clip Backbone tube Coil bracket Hose clip
Figure 4·40. Evap_ System
Hose Routing (Figure 4·40) 1.
See Figure 4-40. Push hose clip (11) around right hand downtube. Push hose clip (14) around left hand downtube.
2.
Take large diameter pre-formed hose and push end with large radius bend over fitting at bottom of canister. Bring hose across to right and left down tube attaching hose to hose clips (11) and (14). Connect free end of hose to the fitting installed at air cleaner. Do not cut hose. Reconnect air cleaner vent hose and secure with new hose clamp. CAUTION
Do not tighten Ty-wraps to the point of collapsing hoses. 4-43
8
IT ~
1
.
6
1f1 ~I
4 5
@
~o
,,, I
'
~---)
\
5
~/ 1
:
I 4 1
lr !1'Q~i~ i / f~~_4: 5
'
iTI
131~ "o ..
1. Bolt
2. Washer 3. Vapor valve bracket 4. Clamp
1. 2. 3. 4.
Down tube clamp Canister bracket Rubber mount Nut
5. 6. 7. 8.
Washer Canister Fitting (carb.) Fitting (tank)
Take hose (8) and push one end over fitting at top of canister labeled "carb", Lead hose up through coil bracket (12) and under backbone tube (12). Se· cure hose to backbone with two ty-wraps (3) can· nected end to end. Bring hose up to carburetor purge fitting. Be sure not to kink hose. Push free end of hose over carburetor purge fitting.
Vapor valve Bolt Nut Washer
Figure 4·42. Vapor Valve Mounting over fitting at top of canister labeled "tank". Lead hose (7) under hose (9) and across to right hand down tube. Secure hose (7) to hose (9) with ty-wrap (3). Bring hose up to bottom of vapor valve (4) and cut to length. Push free end of hose over lower fit· ting on vapor valve (4).
Figure 4·41. Canister Mountmg 3.
5. 6. 7. 8.
6.
Take remaining hose and attach to top of vapor valve. Bring hose up to gas tank vent tube and cut to length. Push free end of hose on tank filling. NOTE
4.
5.
4·44
Connect fuel line to carburetor and secure with hose clamp from kit.
Take small diameter hose (7) and push one end
On XLX and XLH tanks, vent tube is on the bottom of the gas tank. On the XLS, tank vent tube is at gas tank filler neck and hose is routed up front of tank under console.
SUBJECT 1. 2. 3.
PAGE NO.
Elect ri c Starter System 1979 - 1980 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .......... 5-1 Electric Starter System 1981 . 1985 . . . . . . . . . . . . . ............ 5·9 Electric Starter System XA·1000 ........•.. . . . .. . ........... 5·17
ELECTRIC STARTER
I
ELECTRIC STARTER SYSTEM
1979·1980 NOTE
Kick starter information can be found in TRANSMISSION Section 6.
SPECI FICATIONS Starter Free speed. Free current. Stall current Stall torque.
switch. Check each switch using a Jumper to by· pass the switches, one at a time. 4. Excessive friction in the engine caused by tight bearings, tight pistons or too heavy oil makes the engine harder to turn over. If the engine is in good condition and all else checks okay, the trouble Is in the starter motor.
STARTER RELAY .. 10,000 rpm (min.) @ 10.DV .. ..... .. 45 amp (max.)@ 10.DV .300amp@4.0V ............. 3.2 fI·lbs@4.0V
The starter relay is a non·repalrable part and must be replaced if it is not functioning. Figure 5-1 shows a test circuit using a 12-volt battery and stop lamp bulb. Contacts should close and bulb should light when connection is made at positive post of ballery and should go out when connection is broken.
DESCRIPTION The starter motor is a l2·vall, 4-pole drive motor. The starter engages the clutch ring gear through a Bendix drive and a reduction gear unit. A solenoid relay provides battery current directly to the starter. The solenoid is controlled by the starter button on the handlebar. NOTE
1979 Small terminal -;:O-lo~JI
Never operate the starter motor continuously for more than 30 seconds without pausing to let it cool for at least two minutes. The starter can be seriously damag· ed if run for long periods of time.
'2V bulb
TROUBLESHOOTING If the starter motor fails to operate properly, the follow· ing checks should be made before removing the starter for inspection.
1980
86
1. Make sure the mounting and wiring connections are tight and in good condition. The solenoid switch should be firmly mounted and all wiring connections shOuld be clean and tight. 2. Check the battery state of charge. See the BATTERY Section. If the battery is charged and full voltage is reaching the starter, the trouble is In the engine or the starter motor. 3. If the battery is charged but there is no current flow to the starter, check the handlebar starter switch, RUN·OFF switch, starter relay or the solenoid
Figure 5·1. Starter Relay Internal Wiring Diagram and Test Circuit
5·'
STARTER MOTOR
(8) and brush holder (4),
Removal
Cleaning, Inspection And Repair FRAME AND FIELD ASSEMBLY
WARNING Disconnect battery cables (negative cable first) to avoid accidental start-up of vehIcle and possible personal in路 jury. 1. Remove starter end cover and end cover bracket.
Test the frame and field assembly using a continuity
tester. 1. Place one probe of the tester against frame while placing the other probe against each of the brushes attached to the field calls.
2. Remove starter motor cable. 2. If either one of the brushes Indicates an open circuit, the entire frame and field assembly must be replaced.
3. Remove starter thru bolts. 4. Grasp starter by front and rear end covers, to prevent starter from coming apart, and remove starter.
Disassembly (Figure 5-2)
1. If the armature commutator Is dirty use No. 00 sand路 paper - not emery cloth - to clean It.
1. Remove thru bolts (1) washers and lockwashers (2). 2. Remove end
ARMATURE
cover (3).
2. If commutator Is worn, out of round or has high mica Insulation between segments, commutator can be turned down in a lathe.
3. Remove end cover (6), beari ng (7) and armature (5) as an assembly.
If the commutator Is badly out of round due to burn路 ed bars, Indicating open windings, replace the ar路 mature.
4. Move brushes (10) out of the way and remove springs
3. If the mica insulation is high between segments, use
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.
Thru bolt Washer and lockwasher (2) Commutator end cover Brush plate and holder assembly Armature Drive end cover
7. Drive end ball bearing 8. Brush spring (4) 9. Terminal and brush assembly 10. Ground brush (2) 11. Frame and field coli assembly 12. Cover bushing
Figure 5-2. Starter Motor
5-2
Commutator Starting groove in mica with 3 cornered file
~J~~~~==
Commutator
Undercutting mica with piece of hacksaw blade
Mica ~segments~. Mica
~~;~ Mica must not be left with a Ihin edge next to segme nts
~~:~
Mica must be cut away J clean between segments:
Figure 5-3. Recessing the Mica Separators an undercutting machine to undercut the mica 1/32 in. deep. The slots should then be cleaned to remove any dirt or copper dust. If an undercutting machine Is not available, under cutting can be done satisfactorily using a thin hacksaw blade. See Figure 5-3. After undercutting, lightly sand the commutator with No. 00 sandpaper to remove any burrs.
4. Inspect the bearing (7, Figure 5-2). If it is worn or loose, replace II. 5. If cover bushing (12, Figure 5-2) Is worn, cover must be replaced . BRUSHES The brushes should be replaced If they are worn close to 114 in. minimum. Harley-Davidson BRUSH REPLACE¡ MENT KIT, Part No. 31541-06, is available from the fac¡ tory. Always replace brushes In sets of four.
Figure 5-4_ Brush Identification
1. See Figure 5-4. Two of the brushes (2 and 4) are attached to the terminal. To replace these brushes, remove the terminal assembly and slide the new assembly on the frame. 2. See Figure 5-4. The other two brushes (1 and 3) are attached to the field calls. To replace these brushes, cut the old brushes and leads about 1/2 In. from the field calls. Solder the new brushes In place making sure the new brushes are in the same position as the old ones.
3
Assembly 1. See Figure 5-5. Place the brush holder on the frame and position the brushes as shown. The holder has a notch that must line up with the terminal.
Figure 5-5. Installing Brush Holder 5-3
""
2
1. Notch Figure 5·6. Holding Brushes in Brush Holder 2. See Figure 5-6. Insert the springs and brushes in the holder and use clamps to hold them in place while Installing the armature. 3. See Figure 5-2. Install the armature (5), bearing (7) and drive end cover (6) as an assembly. Install the commutator end cover (3). 4. See Figure 5-7. The drive end cover has a lip (1) that must register in a notch on the frame assembly. The commutator end cover has two ridges (2) that must line up with the terminal.
5-4
2. Ridges
Figure 5·7. Starter Motor Assembly
Installation (Figure 5-2) 1. With thru bolts installed through starter, install starter to housing with terminal to the front. Tighten thru bolts to 60-80 In·lbs torque. 2. Install battery cable to starter terminal, tighten starter terminal nut to 65·80 in·lbs torque. 3. Install starter cover bracket and starter cover.
SOLENOID
12V test light (21 C.P.)
General See Figure 5-8. The solenoid switch is designed to open and close the circuil electromagnetically. The switch consists basically of contacts and a winding around a hollow cylinder containing a movable plunger. When the winding is energized by the battery, the magnetism produced pulls the plunger into the coil. The plunger moves against two main switch contacts, closing the circuit.
Figure 5·9. Test Circuit for Solenoid
Testing The Solenoid It is not necessary to remove the solenoid to test for continuity. Use the following procedure:
Removal
WARNING
WARNING
Disconnect the battery cables (negative cable first) to prevent accidental start up of vehicle and possible per· sonal injury.
Disconnect the battery cables (negative cable first) to prevent accidental start up of vehicle and possible per· sonal injury.
1. Disconnect wires from solenoid. 2. See Figure 5-9. Connect a 12·Yolt battery to solenoid terminals A and C. Use a jumper wire between the plus battery terminal and solenoid terminal B. When connection is made a click should be heard, and if used the test light should go on. If click or heavy spark at the terminal does not occur, the solenoid is shorted out and must be replaced. Starter motor terminal Pull·in coil.3 ..... Starter relay
termln~m!C::~~~~;=-=-:! Hold·ln coil .6""'-
Figure 5·8. Solenoid Internal Wiring Diagram
1. Remove the nuts and disconnect the large battery positive cable and starter motor cable. 2. Remove the nut and disconnect the small starter relay wire. 3. Remove the two mounting bolts and lockwashers. Remove the solenoid along with the spacer, spring and felt gasket.
Disassembly (Figure 5-10) 1. Remove the two co ....er mounting screws (I), raise the cover (2) and remo ....e the gasket (3). 2. If the studs are to be replaced, remo ....e the Remove the stud (5) and copper plate (6). stud (7) and stud (8) by culling the wires as the studs as possible. Solder the wires to studs.
nuts (4). Remo ....e close to the new
3. Remove the plunger assembly (9) and disassemble as follows: Remove the small spring (10), coilar (11), plastic washer (12), copper washer (13), seat (14), large spring (15) and collar (11) from the plunger (16).
5·5
1. Screw and washer (2)
14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25.
2. Cover 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13.
Gasket Nut and gasket (3) Stud (positive battery) Plate Stud (starter relay) Stud (starter motor connection) Plunger assembly (Inner) Spring (small) Collar (2) Plastic washer Copper washer
Seat Spring (large) Plunger Solenoid Felt gasket Spring Plunger (outer) Pin (large) Rubber boot Spring Collar Pin (small)
Figure 5¡10. Solenoid
Cleaning, Inspection And Repair (Figure 5-10) 1. If the copper washer (13) Is grooved or burnt on one side, turn it around on the plunger. This will double the life of the washer. 2. Replace the studs If they are pitted, corroded or burnt.
3, Replace the cover (2) and gasket (3) if cracked or broken.
Assembly (Figure 5-10) 1. lightly coat parts 11-17 with a brake type grease such as lUBRIPLATE 110. Install the collar (11), large spring (15), seat (14), copper washer (13), plastic washer (12), collar (11) and small spring (10)
onto the plunger (16). Insert the plunger assembly In· to the solenoid housing. 2. If the studs were removed Install them Into the cover and fasten them using the nuls (4). 3. Install the gasket (3) and cover (2) and fasten with
screws (1). CAUTION
copper jaws In a vise and unscrew from shaft (22) which has a left hand thread. Remove bearing race (17). Remove pinion and shifter collar assembly (18). Remove lock ring (19) to separate gear (20) and shifter collar (21). 5. To remove starter shifter lever (25), It is necessary to either remove starter drive housing (26) or remove battery and carrier to gain access to screw (24). Remove screw (24) and lever (25) from housing (26).
When Installing the cover, position the Internal wires so they do not Intertere with the copper washer travel. If wires are allowed to contact the washer, the wirelnsula· tlon will eventually wear away causing the circuit to re· main constantly open.
6. Remove starter motor (30) and housing (26) as an
Installation
7. Needle bearings (28) and (29) are pressed into hous· ings at shaft ends. Washer (27) presses out with nee· die bearing (28).
1. Install solenoid with felt gasket, return spring and spacer.
2. Install the two moun ling bolts and washers.
3. Connect battery cable to long solenoid stud, starter
assembly by removing two bolts and lock washers (not shown) from chain housing on left side of crankcase.
Assembly and Installation (Figure 5·11)
cable to short solenoid stud and relay wire to small solenoid stud.
STARTER DRIVE SHAFT AND HOUSING
1. Clean needle bearings (28 and 29) and repack with grease. If replaced, needle bearing (28) should be
Removal and Disassembly (Figure 5·11)
2. Pinion (20) and shaft (22) should be assembled with
pressed in flush with outside of housing. Stake washer (27).
no lubrication on worm threads.
1. Remove solenoid. See SOLENOID Section.
2. Remove clutch as described OISASSEMBLY, Section 6.
in
CLUTCH
3. Shaft nut (16) should be secured to shaft with
Loctite STUD N' BEARING MOUNT. Clean parts with cleaning solvent before applying adhesive to threads.
3. Rotate starter shifter lever (25) end forward and disengage lever fingers from pinion gear shifter col· lar (21). Pull pinion gear and shaft assembly (14) from housing (26), then remove gear (23) from drive shaft.
4. Connect battery cable to longesl solenoid terminal stud.
4. To disassemble pinion gear and shaft assembly (14), remove thrust washer (15). Place nut (16) between
If cables are reversed, the solenoid will remain In battery circuit.
CAUTION
I~J,r;: l 12 c/9 24 p~.",('
3 13
6. Sp"ng
1. Boll and lockwasher (2) 8. Spacer bar
~
25 6 4
~:o fjj.~ ; ~ ;rJ,JI/ I\----Y
1. Cover 2. Terminal nut and lockwasher (2) 3. Terminal nut and lockwasher 4. Retainer cap
5. Pin
11
@'~23 22 '~
r
~.. ~- __
30
28
26
5
<'~1t
----- ____ ,:?
r I (f;) ~ 9 ~ <Ii I!
21 20
\,
~
"../15
~1.'!iCb--29
~ 7 16
18
9. Boot
10. Gasket
17. Bearing race
11 . Plunger 12. Plunger spring
18. Pinion & shifter collar 19. Lock ring
13. Solenoid
20. Pinion gear
14. Pinion gear and shaft 15. Thrust washer 16. Pinion shaft nut
21. Shifter collar 22. Shaft 23. Drive gear
14
Figure &11 . Starter Shaft, Housing and Solenoid
5..
24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30.
Shifter lever screw Shifter lever Starter shaft housing Washer Needle bearing Needle bearing Starter motor
ELECTRIC STARTER SYSTEM
1981 . 1985 DESCRIPTION The starter Is made up of an armature, field winding assembly, solenOid, drive assembly, idle gear and drive housing. The armature speed is reduced by about one fourth through gear reduction. The gear reduction consists of the drive pinion on the armature, and an idle gear and a
clutch gear in the drive housing. The idle gear is supported by rollers and the clutch gear is part of the overrunning clulchfdri ve assembly. The overrunning clutch is the part which transmits the rotational torque to the clutch ring gear. II also prevents the starter from overrunning, The field windings are connected in series with the armature through brushes and commutator segments.
TROUBLESHOOTING BASIC TYPES OF TROUBLE
Starter does not run, or runs at considerably low speeds.
PLACE OF TROUBLE
PROBABLE CAUSE
A. Starting switch or starter relay
1. Poor contact condition or poor connection
B. Solenoid
1. Poor contact condition caused by burnt contact
c.
Starting motor
REMEDY
1. Replace
,. Polish contact surface or replace solenoid assembly
2. Contact plate removed
2. Repair
3. Pull-in winding open or short-circu ited
3. Replace solenoid assembly
4. Hold-in winding open
4. Replace solenoid assembly
1. Poor contact condition of brushes
1. Check brush spring tension
2. Commutator burnt
2. Correct on lathe or replace
3. Commutator high mica
3. Correct by undercutting
4. Field winding grounded
4. Replace
5. Armature winding
5. Replace
grounded or shorl-circuit 6. Reduction gears damaged
6. Rep lace
7. Insufficient brush spring tension
7. Replace
B. Disconnected lead wire
B. Repair or replace lead
between solenoid and field windings
9. Ball bearing sticks
wire
9. Replace bearing
5¡9
BASIC TYPE OF TROUBLE
Pin ion does not engage with ring gear while starter is running, or engine cannot be cranked
PLACE OF TROUBLE
D. Battery
PROBABLE CAUSE
REMEDY
1. Voltage drop due to discharged battery
1. Charge battery
2. Short-circuited between electrodes
2. Replace battery
3. Poor contact condition of battery terminal
3. Clean and retighten
E. Wi ring
1. Disconnection between starter switch and solenoid terminal
1. Repair or replace wire
F. Overrun¡
1. Overrunning clutch maifunction (rollers or compression spring)
l. Replace
2. Pinion teeth worn out
2. Replace
3. Pinion does not run in overrunn ing direction
3. Replace
4. Poor sl iding condition of spline teeth
4. Remove foreign rnaterials, dirt, or replace
5. Reduction gears
5. Replace
ning clutch
damaged Starter does not stop running
1. Return spring worn
1. Replace solenoid
2. Coil layer-shorted
2. Replace solenoid
3. Contact plate melted and stuck
3. Replace solenoid
H. Ring gear
1. Worn out teeth
1. Replace
I. Starting
1. Unopened contacts
1. Replace
2. Poor returning
2. Replace
G. Solenoid
switch or starter relay
OPERATION (Figure 5-12) When the starter button is pushed battery current flows into the pull-in winding and also into the hold-in winding to ground. The magnetic forces of the pull-in and hold¡in windings in the solenoid push the plunger and cause It to shift to the left, so that the pinion gear is engaged with the clutch ring gear. At the same time, the main solenoid contacts are closed and battery current flows directly through the field windings to the armature, and to ground . Simultaneously, the pull-in winding is shorted. The current continues flowing through the
5-10
hold-in winding, keeping the main solenoid contacts closed. At this point the starter begins to crank the engine. After the engine has started, the pinion gear turns freely on the pinion shaft through the action of the overrunning clutch which prevents overrunning of the armature caused by the rotation of the clutch ring gear. When the starter button Is released, the current to the hold-jn winding is fed through the main solenoid contacts and the direction of the current in the pull-in winding is reversed. The solenoid plunger is returned to its original position by the return spring, disengaging the pinion gear from the clutch ring gear.
STARTER ATMOMENT STARTER SWITCH IS CLOSED
Armature Field winding
Brush
Idle gear --~ Ball bearing
Pinion gear
~
CIUIC~
Battery
ring gear
Starting L _ _ _- ' switch
STARTER DURING CRANKING
Armature Field winding
Clutch ring gear
Starting switch
Figure 5·12. Starter Operation -
L _ __
~
1981 . 1985 5·11
STARTER RELAY The starter relay is a non.repairable part and must be replaced if it is not functioning.
Figure 5-13. Shows a lest circuit using a 12-volt battery and stop lamp bulb. Contacts should close and bulb should light when connection is made at positive post of battery and should go oul when connection is broken.
2. Remove the two starter mounting bolts and washers Figure 5-14. 3. Remove rear exhaust pipe.
4. Remove positive battery lead and solenoid wire from starter. 5. Remove starter and gasket from right side of motorcycle.
TESTING ASSEMBLED STARTER Starter Solenoid Tests
86
NOTE
Do not disassemble solenoid. Before testing disconnect field wire from terminal C. CAUTION Each test should be performed for only 3 to 5 seconds to prevent damage to solenold_
Solenoid Pull路ln Test (Figure 5-15) Figure 5路13. Starter Relay Internal Wiring Diagram and Test Circuit
REMOVAL WARNING
Connect test leads from 12-volt battery as shown in Figure 5-15. The starter pinion should pull in strongly If the solenoid is working properly. If pinion does not pull in solenoid should be replaced.
"C" terminal
Oisconnect battery cables (negative cable first) to avoid
accidental start up of vehicle and possible personal In-
"50" terminal
jury. 1. Remove primary chain case cover. See CLUTCH DISASSEMBLY in Section 6.
Battery
Figure 5-15. Pull-In Test
"c" Terminal "50" Terminal
Battery
Figure 5路14. Starter Mounting - 1981 . Early 1984 5路12
Figure 5-16. Hold-In Test
Solenoid Hold·ln Test (Figure 5-16) Use same setup as Pull·ln Test and disconnect test lead from C terminal. If pinion remains In pull-in position, the solenoid is working properly. If pinion does Qot remain In pull-in position the solenoid should be replaced.
Figure 5-18. Performance Test
Solenoid Return Test (Figure 5-17) Connect test leads from 12-volt battery as shown In Figure 5-17. Disconnect the 50 terminal test lead. If pinIon returns to its original position, the solenoid Is work·
Figure 5·17. Return Test
3
2')"
7
'2
(
" 2'
15. Idler gear roller (5) 16. Idler gear bearing cage
17. O-ring
7. Field frame 1. Thru·bolt (2) 2. End cover screw (2) 3. End cover 4. Brush holder 5. Brush spring (4) 6. Armature
13. Drive assemblyfoverrunnlng clutch
14. Idler gear
18. Return spring 19. Ball
S. Armature bearings
20. Fell washer
9. Drive housing mounting bolt,
21. Gasket 22. Front (short) mounting bolt and washer 23. Rear (long) mounting bolt and washer
washer and lockwasher (2) 10. Q.ring (2) 11. Drive housing 12. Solenoid housing Figure 5·19. Starter
5·13
Ing properly. If the pinion does not return to its original position the solenoid should be replaced.
""
Starter Performance Test (Figure 5-18) Clamp starter securely in vise. Connect 12-voll battery, ammeter and test leads as shown in Figure 5-18. The starter should show smooth and steady rotation and draw less than 90 amps at 3000 rpm minimum. Battery voltage should not drop below 11.5 volts. If starter does not meet these specifications see DISASSEMBLY, IN路 SPECTION , REPAIR AND ASSEMBLY.
DISASSEMBLY, INSPECTION, REPAIR AND ASSEMBLY 1. Remove field wire.
Figure 5路22. Removing Brush Holder
2. Remove thru路bolts (Figure 5-20).
4. Use a wire hook to pull up on brush springs and 11ft brushes out of holder. Remove brush holder (Figure 5-22).
3. Remove the two cover screws and cover (Figure 5路21).
5. Check brush length. Brushes less than .354 In. long should be replaced.
NOTE
""
Replace brushes in sets of four only.
6. Remove armature (6, Figure 5-19) and field frame (7). 7. Place armature in lathe or truing stand and check runout ot commutator. Armatures with more than .002 In. of runout should be replaced. 8. Check depth of segment mica on commutator. It undercut is less than .008 In. armature should be replaced. 9. Check tor SHORTED ARMATURE with a growler (Figure 5-23). Place armature on growler. Hold a thin steel strip (hacksaw blade) against armature core and slowly turn armature. A shorted armature will cause the steel strip to vibrate and be attracted to the core. Shorted armatures should be replaced .
Figure 5-20. Removing Thru-Bolts
""
..... Figure 5-21. Removing End Cover 5-14
Figure 5.23_ Shorted Arm.ture Te.t Using Growler
...
,
No continuity (CJC) ohms)
Figure 5-24. Grounded Armature Test Figure 5-26. Grounded Field Test 10. Check tor a GROUNDED ARMATURE with an ohmmeter or continuity tester. Touch one prObe to any commutator segment, and the other probe to the armature core (Figure 5-24). There should be no can· tlnulty (00 ohms). If there is any continuity the ar· mature Is grounded and should be replaced.
1702
Continuity ( 0 ohms)
Figure 5-25. Open Armature Test
Figure 5-27. Open Field Test
11 . Check for OPEN ARMATURE with an ohmmeter or
13. Check for OPEN FIELD WINOING with an ohmmeter or continuity tester. Touch one probe to the field wire, and the other probe to each of the brushes attached to the field colis (Figure 5-27). There should be continuity. If there Is no continuity at either brush, the field windlng(s) are open and the field frame shOuld be replaCed.
continuity tester. Check for continuity between all commutator segments (Figure 5-25). There should be continuity (0 ohms) at aU test points. No continuity at any test point Indicates armature Is open and should be replaced.
12. Check lor GROUNDED FIELD WINDING with an ohmmeter or continuity tester. Touch one probe to the frame, and the other probe to each of the brushes attached to the field winding (Figure 5-26). There should be no continuity (ooOhms). If there Is any continuity at either brush, the field wlndlng(s) are grounded and the field frame should be replaced.
14. Test BRUSH HOLDER INSULATION with an ohm· meter or continuity tester. Touch one probe to holder plate and the other probe to each of the positive (Insulated) brush holders (Figure 5-28). There should be no continuity (00 ohms). If there Is continuity at either brush holder the brush holder assembly should be replaced.
5-15
15. Check armature necessary.
b~arings
(8)
and
replace
if
"'''
No continuity (00 ohms)
Figure 5·28. Brush Holder Insulation Test Figure 5·30. Drive Assembly
"'"
to reinstall return spring (18) and ball (19). 21. lubricate armature bearings (8) and felt washer (20) with high temperature grease such as lUBRIPLATE 11()® and Install armature (6) and frame (7) to solenoid housing (12). 22. Install brushes and brush holder (4). 23. Install end cover (3) with screws (2). 24. Install thru bolts (1). Figure 5·29. Removing Drive Housing 25. Install solenoid wire to terminal. 16. Remove the two drive housing mounting bolts, washers and lockwashers, and O·rings (Figure 5·29). Remove drive housing from solenoid housing. 17. Remove drive, idler gear and idler gear bearing from drive housing (Figure 5-30). O·ring is in groove in drive housing. 18. Clean, inspect and lubricate drive assembly com· ponents (Figure 5-30). lubricate parts with high temperature grease such as lUBRIPLATE 11()®. 19. When reinstall ing drive assembly components, open end of idler bearing cage faces toward solenoid (Figure 5-30). 20. When reinstalling drive housing (11, Figure 5·19) to solenoid housing (12) use new a·rings (10). Be sure
5·16
INSTALLATION 1. Install starter and starter gasket from right side of motorcycle. 2. Install positive battery cable and solenoid wire to solenoid. 3. Install the two starter mount ing bolls and washers, long bolt to the rear (Figure 5-13). Tighten mounting bolts to 13·20 ft. Ibs torque. 4. Install primary chain case cover. See CLUTCH ASSEMBLY In Section 6. 5. Install rear exhaust pipe.
ELECTRIC STARTER SYSTEM (XR·1000) REMOVAL WARNING Disconnect the battery cables, (negative cable first) to avoid accidental start-up 01 vehicle and possible personallnjury.
1.
Remove the exhaust system including the heat shield.
2.
Drain the oil from the primary chain case, then remove the gear shifter, left footrest assembly and the primary chain case cover.
3.
Remove the rear master cylinder mounting bolts and the clip securing the rear brake line to the reaf chain sprocket cover. Swing the master cylinder rearward.
4.
Remove the footrest, rear brake pedal, brake adjusting screw bracket and the rear chain sprocket
Figure 5·31. Starter Mounting Tighten the sprocket cover screws to 90·110 in-Ibs torque. Tighten the adjusting screw bracket locknut to 50-60 ft·lbs torque.
cover. 5.
Remove the two starter mounting bolls and washers Figure 5-31.
6.
Disconnect the battery positive lead and solenoid wire from the starter solenoid.
7.
Remove starter and gasket from right side of the motorcycle.
5.
Position the rear master cylinder assembly over the mounting holes in the sprocket cover. Be sure the push rod is aligned with the master cylinder piston. Secure the master cylinder with screws, tightening them to 155·190 in·lbs torque. Install brake line retaining clip.
6.
Reinstall the footrest.
7.
Install primary chain case cover. Tighten the mounting screws to 80-110 in-Ibs torque. Add the correct amount of specified oil to the chain case. Refer to TRANSMISSION Section 6.
INSTALLATION 1.
Install starter and gasket from right side of the motorcycle.
2.
Connect the solenoid wire and battery positive cable to the starter solenoid.
8.
3.
Install the two starter mounting bolts, long bolt to the rear (Figure 5·31). Tighten the mounting bolts to 13·20 ft·lbs torque.
Install the gear shifter and left foot rest assembly. Tighten the footrest nut to 50 ft·lbs torque. Tighten the gear shifter pinch bolt to 90-110 in-Ibs.
9.
Install the exhaust system and heat shields.
4.
Install the rear chain sprocket cover, brake ad· Justing screw bracket and the rear brake pedal. Use a new retaining ring to secure the brake pedal.
10.
Connect the battery cables to the battery, positive cable first.
5·17
SUBJECT
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
PAGE NO.
Generallnformat lon ............. 6-1 Speci fi cat ions (1979· Early 1984). . . . . . . . . • . . . ... 6·3 Chains (1979 · Early 1984) . ........... .6·5 Clutch (1979 · Early 1984) . . . . ........... .. ... 6·9 Transmission (1979 · Early 1984) ..... 6-17 Kick Starter (1979 XlCH ). ............ . ...... 6·27 Specifi cations (Late 1984 and 1985) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . • . . ............. 6-31 Chains (Late 1984 and 1985) .. . . .. ....... ,.. . . .... 6·33 Clutch (Late 1984and 1985) .. . .. . ................ .. .... 6·35 Transmission (Late 1984 and 1985) ..... . . .. . . ............ 6·40
DRIVEl TRANSMISSION
I
GENERAL INFORMATION DESCRIPTION General The drive/transmission section of this service manual covers the primary chain, rear chain, clutch, kick starter, and transmission.
Clulch The purpose 01 the clutch is to disengage and engage the engine from the rear wheel lor starting, slopping and shifting gears. The clutch Is a wet , multiple disc clutch with steel plates and fiber (frictiOn) plates set alternately In the clutch shell. The friction plates are keyed to the clutch shell and the sleel plates to the clutch hub and through ii , to the transmission and rear wheel. The plates driven by the engine afe called driving plates; those connected to the clutch hub, the driven plates. When the clutch Is fully engaged, spring(s) force the plates together and cause them to turn as a unit with the result that the power transmitted through the engine sprocket, primary drive chain, and clutch is transferred to the rear wheel through the transmission.
Kick Slarier -
XLCH
On the XLCH model a kick starter provides a means of starting the engine by manual power. When the lever is moved in a downward stroke, teeth on the starter rat· chet gear and starter ratchel are engaged, transmitting the force to the clutch, primary drive chain and to the engine sprocket. On the XlH , XlS and XLX models, an electric starter motor and solenoid activated drive pinion engages a ring gear on the clutch to crank the engine. See STARTER Section 5.
Transmission The transmission is a 4·speed constant mesh type, (contained in an extension of the crankcase), that permits the rider to vary the ratio of engine speed to the rear driving wheel speed in order to meet the varying conditions of operation. The transmission is foot operated by the gear shllter lever which transmits the force through a gear shifter shaft , actuating a pawl carrier, pawls and gear shllter cam . The shifter cam moves shifter forks which slide a series of gear clutches on the mainshaft and counter· shaft Into mesh with the various gears to obtain the desired gear ratios.
6-1
SPECIFICATIONS (1979· EARLY 1984) TRANSMISSION
KICK STARTER
General
Minimum clearance between ratchet teeth on starter ratchet gear and starter ratchet on clutch shell - .040 In. with starter crank in up position.
Type ..................... Constant Mesh, Foot Shift Speeds ......................... . .. 4 Forward
Number of Sprocket Teeth
Crankshaft end play.
.001 in.· .007 in.
GEAR BOX
Engine ..............................••....... 34
Clutch.............
. ...... 59 ........ 21
Transmission .............. . Rear Wheel1979-1981 ........... . 1982- Early 1984
. ..... 51 ....... 48
Capacity Power Blend Super Premium Oil (U.S. pints)
1.5
Overall Gear Ratios 1979-1981 First (Low) Gear . Second Gear. Third Gear ........... Fourth (High) Gear ... ...
...
10.63 7.70 5.82 4.22
1982Early 1984
10.02 7.25 5.49 3.97
CLUTCH Type Wet - Multiple disc Capacity. 174 ft-Ibs Spring Adjustment Fixed spacers sId. length 1.530 in. Free length - Inner. . . 2-25/64 in. 2·25164 in. Free length - outer. Clutch shell bearing on clutch gear (loose) . .0000 in.· .0010 in.
PRIMARY CHAIN Type ............. . Free play
318 in. pitch triple chain 518 to 7/8 in. slack (cold engine) 318 to 518 in slack (hOt engine)
REAR CHAIN Free play .................•.. . •.•...
1/2 in. slack
Shifter mechanism must operate freely i n all positions
MAINSHAFT GROUP Clutch gear ball bearing in access cover (loose) . Ball bearing on clutch gear(tight) . Clutch gear bushing on mainshaft (loose) . Mainshaft right side roller bearing assembly (loose) . Mainshaft end play· Without axial play (minimum) With axial play. Third gear On shaft (loose) .. End play. Clearance between faces Mainshafl fourth gear and second gear ... Mainshaft third gear and second gear.
.001 in.· .0012 in. .0009 in. .001 in.· .002 in . .001 in . . .0034 in. .003 in. .020 In. .002 In . . .003 in. .012 in.· .030 in.
.028 in.· .058 in. .028 in.· .058 in.
COUNTERSHAFT GROUP Countershafl end bearings.
Retained needle roller bearing .0005 in.· .003 in. press fit .004 In ... 009 in.
Bearing fit on shaft ends (loose) Bearing fit on case End play.. Second gear On shaft (loose). .001 in ... 0025 in. low gear On shaft (loose). .0005 in.· .0016 in. Drive gear On shaft (loose) . .0005 in.· .003 in. Clearance between faces Countershaft low and third gear. .028 In ...058 in. Countershafl second and third gear . .028 in.·.058 in. Countershaft end play. .004 in.· .015 in.
6-3
TORQUES
ponents or for measurements not given under SERVICE WEAR LIMITS, see the foregoing.
Clutch Hub Nut. Mainshafl Nut ........... .•• . .•.. . Access Cover Screws. Drain Plug Primary Chain Case Cover Screws ...... .....•. Chain Tensioner Stud Nut ..
110-150 ft-Ibs 35-65 ft·lbs 13·151t·lbs
14-21 It·Jbs
80tol10in-lbs 8-12 ft-Ibs
SERVICE WEAR LIMITS NOTE
Wear limits are given 8S a guideline for measuring engine components that are not new. For new com-
6·4
Clutch spring free length inner and outer. 2-11132 in. Clutch plate maximum warpage .010 in. Mainshafl - clutch gear ball bearing in access cover (loose) .001 - .0035 in. Mainshaft - ball bearing on clutch gear(1005e) .001 in. Clutch gear bushing on mainshafl (loose) .001 - .0035 in. Mainshaft right side roller bearing assembly (loose) .001 .. 0035 in. Mainshafl - third gear On shaft (loose) .002 in· .004 in. Countershafl bearing fil on shaft ends (lOOse) . . . . . . . • • . .0005· .0035 in.
CHAINS (1979 . EARLY 1984) FRONT CHAIN
NOTE
General The front chain should be checked every 2500 miles for correct adjustment. Check chain adjustment through oil filler opening near the top of the chain cover. A correctly adjusted fron t chain should have free up·and-down movement, in the upper strand midway between engine and clutch sprockets, as follows: 518 to 718 in. chain slack with cold engine; 3/8 to 5/8 in. chain slack with hot engine. As chains wear and stretch in service, they will run tighter at one point on the sprocket than another. Chain free play must be gauged al the lightest point on the chain.
WARNING To prevent accidental starter operation, disconnect bat· tery cables (negative cable first) before doing any work on the engine, drive or electrical systems.
Adjustment (Figure 6·1)
If chain tens/on cannot be corrected with chain ad· juster, then adjuster or chaIn Is worn beyond adjust· ment flmits and must be replaced.
Lubrication There Is an opening between the front chain and transmisson compartment, and the same oil supply automatically lubricates moving parts in both compart. ments. For complete lubrication service on the front chain see TRANSM ISSION, this section.
ReplaCing Chain Adjuster (Figure 6·2) 1.
Remove drain plug (2) and drain 011 from chain case.
2.
Remove gear shifter lever and assembly.
left
footrest
The front chain can be adjusted without removing the chain cover. 1.
Remove the oi l filler plug near the top of the chain case.
2.
Rotate the sprockets to find the tightest point on the chain.
3.
l oosen locknut (1) and turn adjusting screw (2) IN to reduce freeplay or OUT to Increase free play.
4.
When correct tension Is obtained, tighten locknut (1) and replace oil filler plug.
1. locknut 2. Ch.ln .djuster screw 3. Chain cover
4. 011 IIlIer opening 5. Clutch adjustment
(1979 . Early 1984)
access plug
3 1. Chain adjuster 2. Drain plug
4 3. Spring 4. Chsln
Figure 6·2. Replacing Chain and Adjuster (1979 . Early 1984)
6·5
3.
Relax chain tension by unscrewing chain adjuster screw (2, Figure 6-1).
4.
Remove chain case cover and gasket.
5.
Pull chain adjuster (1, Figure 6-2) and spring (3) from stud. Transfer spring (3) to new adjuster and install assembly crankcase stud.
6.
Remove foreign material from magnetic drain plug. Replace and securely tighten drain plug.
7.
Reinstall chain case cover and gasket; footrest assembly, tightening nut to 24·36 ft-Ibs torque; and gear shift lever, tightening pinch bolt to 90 to 110 in-Ibs torque.
8.
Adjust front chain as described previously. Fill with correct amount of lubricant as described in TRANSMISSION, this section.
1. Axle nut 2. Axle adjuster nut (2) 3. Axle adjuster assembly (2) 4. Axle
Removal and Installation Since the front chain runs in an oil bath, little service will be required other than checking oil level and chain adjustment every 2500 miles. If through hard usage the front chain does become worn, it must be replaced rather than trying to repair it. This will avert chain breakage and possible damage to the crankcases. WARNING Disconnect the battery cables (negative cable first) to avoid accidental startup of vehicle and possible per· sonal injury. 1.
Remove and install the chain following disassembly procedure under CLUTCH.
Figure 6-3. Rear Chain Adjustment (1979· Early 1984) either side exactly the same number of turns to maintain alignment of wheel. 3.
A properly adjusted chain should have 1/2 in. total free up and down movement of the lower strand measured midway between the transmission sprocket and the rear wheel sprocket. Check rear wheel alignment. Wheel must run centrally be· tween rear fork tubes and sprocket must run cen· trally in the chain. See WHEEL ALIGNMENT.
4.
When readjustment is completed, be sure to se· curely retighten rear axle nut (1) to 65-70 fI-lbs torque.
the
REAR CHAIN General The rear chain should be checked for worn chain links and correct adjustment. A correctly adjusted rear chain should have 1/2 in. total free up·and-down movement, in the lower strand, midway between mains haft and rear wheel sprocket. As chains stretch and wear in service, they will run tighter at one point on the sprocket than another; therefore, always rotate rear wheel and check adjustment at tightest point of chain.
NOTE Once the chain adjusters have reached their limit and proper chain adjustment can no longer be achieved, replace the chain. See REAR CHAIN REMOVAL and IN· STALLATION.
NOTE Make rear chain adjustment with the motorcycle upright and the weight of one rider sitting on it.
Adjustment (Figure 6·3) 1.
Loosen rear axle nut (1).
2.
Turn axle adjuster nut (2) on stud of axle adjuster assembly (3) either counterclockwise to loosen chain, or clockwise to tighten chain. Adjust nut on
6·6
Lubrication This motorcycle is not equipped with a rear chain oiler. Therefore, the rear chain should be checked and lubri· cated manually every 300 miles. Under normal operating conditions, brush off the dirt and lubricate chain. Use Harley-Davidson CHAIN SPRAY or High Performance CHAIN LUBE PLUS. Apply at room temperature to chain side plates and rollers. Apply with a brush or squirt can to thoroughly cover chain. Wipe off surplus lubricant.
Removal and Installation (Figure 6·4) 1.
locate and remove the spring clip on the chain connecting link.
2.
Using CHAIN TOOL, Part No. HD·95021-29A, press the connecting link from the side pia Ie.
3.
Place transmission In neutral. Connect one end of the new chain to the old chain using the connect· ing link and side plate. Run the chain on the sprockets unlillhe new chain is on both the wheel and transmission sprocket.
4.
Disconnect the old chain from the new chain.
5.
Using CHAIN ASSEMBLY TOOL, Pari No. HD·95020-66, connect the ends of the new chain with a new connecting link, side plate and spring.
Spring clip
Figure 6·4. Chain Connecting link (1979· Early 1984)
CAUTION Make sure that the spring clip open end trails the dlrec· tion of chain travel. 6.
Adjust the chain tension as described in REAR CHAIN ADJUSTMENT.
6·7
CLUTCH (1979 . Early 1984) GENERAL Troubleshooting Effect Clutch slips
Clutch drags
C. u•• (Check In follow ing order)
Remedy
Incorrect clutch release adjustment .
Check and adjust clutch release mechan ism as described under ADJUSTING CLUTCH RELEASE MECHANISM .
Insufficient clutch spring tension.
Check and adjust clutch spring tension as described under ADJUSTING CLUTCH SPRING TENSION .
Incorrect clutch release adjustment .
Check and adjust clutch release mechanism as described under ADJUSTING CLUTCH RELEASE MECHANISM.
Worn clutch release ramps or balls.
Replace release ramps and/or balls. See INSPECTING CLUTCH RELEASE MECHANISM.
Excessive clutch spring lenslon.
Check and adjust clutch spring tension as described under ADJUSTING CLUTCH SPRING TENSION .
Warped clutch steel plates.
Replace clutch steel plates. See INSPECT· ING AND REPAIRING CLUTCH.
Badly worn or damaged clutch sprocket splines.
Replace clutch sprocket. See INSPECTING AND REPAIRING CLUTCH .
ADJUSTING NUT WRENCH , Part No. HD·94580·71 , and turn screw (5) Inward until it becomes harder to turn (starts to release the clutch) and continue turning (2 more turns) to be sure clutch Is disengaged.
CONTROLS General Periodic adjustment of the clutch and oiling of the clutch control cable Is required every 2500 miles to com· pensate for lining wear. The need for attention to the clutch and controls will also be indicated by the c lutch slipping under load, or dragging in released position. In any case, the first thing to be checked is the adjustment of the clutch control.
4.
5. The clutch release adjustment should then be made with the clutch adjusting screw as follows. Back off the adjusting screw (5) until the clutch Is engaged (screw turns eaSier), then, turn screw In· ward untll the point where free play of adjusting screw has just been eliminated. From th is point, turn the adjusting screw outward 118 to 114 turn to establish correct free play, and tighten locknut (3) while holding screw (5) stationary.
Adjusting Clutch Release Mechanism (Figure 6-5) 1.
Loosen clutch cable adjuster locknut (13) and turn adjuster (15) inward unlit there Is a large amount of free play at hand lever on handlebar.
2.
Remove access plug (1) from primary chain cover using ACCESS PLUG REMOVAL TOOl., Part No. HD-33186.
3.
Loosen adjusting screw locknut (3) using CLUTCH
Adjust all free play out of clutch cable by turn ing adjuster (15) outward. Do not put any tension on cable. With all slack in cable eliminated (no play at hand lever) tighten the coli adjuster locknut (13). This is the correct cable adjustment.
6.
See Figure 6-6. Check free play at clutch hand lever. There should be 1/16 in. free play be· tween handle and bracket. If Incorrect, readjust sleeve (15, Figure 6·5) and tighten locknut (13).
-
Clutch adjUstl~9 screw locknu
::: ~i: o :: ferrule
Slot open end must face toward Inside of lever
1. Access plug 2 O·rlng 3' Locknut 4' Lockwasher S' Adjusting screw
o Washer 1 . Ie coupling 11. Cab an d coil assy. 12. Cable 13. Locknut
14. Washer
eve
7
51 15. Adjusting case cover 16. Primary cha n
6: Retaining ring and lever 7. Release ramp 8 eall (3)
17. Plug
9: Release ramp
18. 011 level screw
Figure 6'5. Clutch Release Mec hanlsm (1979 • EarIy 1984)
6·10
Outer drive plate Releasing disc
Adjust for 1116 in. gap between handle and bracket
Figure 6-6. Adjusting Clutch Free Play - 1979· Earty 1984 NO TE
If the clutch continues to slip under load or drag In releas ed position, clutch springs may need ad;usting or release mechanism may not be operating. See subse· quent sections.
Nut
118" M Inlmu m, "I""~l!l!l!l!!llI!llI~!llI~~ Spacer std. length, 1.530 in. Spacer - .040 length, 1.490 In. Spacer - .080 length, 1.450 In.
Adjusting Clutch Spring Tension See Figure 6-7. Clutch spring tension Is determined by the length of six stud spacers. To correct clutch slip· page caused by worn clutch drive plate linings, a set of shorter than standard spacers can be installed. Under no circumstances should clearance between releasing disc and outer drive plate be allowed to go under minimum 118 in. dimension shown. All spacers should be equal in length.
Disassembling Clutch Release Mechanism and Clutch Cable (Figure 6·5)
Figure 6-7. Clutch -
3.
Remove access plug (1) from primary cover using ACCESS PLUG REMOVAL TOO L, Part No. HD·33186.
4.
loosen primary chain adjuster.
5.
Remove primary chain cover (16).
6.
Remove adjusting screw locknut (3), lockwasher (4) and screw (5).
7.
Remove retaining ring (6) using a lock ring pliers. This will free clutch release ramp lever (7) and three bails (8). Unless necessary lor replacement, do not remove release ramp (9) or washer (10) which is staked into cover recess .
8.
Remove clutch cable by rotating cable coupling 90- from installed position in lever (coupling has a flat which locks it in place in lever).
9.
Unhook cable end (12) from coupling (11). loosen locknut (13) and unscrew adjusting sleeve (1 5) from cover.
Disconnect the battery cables (negative cable first) to avoid accidental start·up of vehicle and possible per· sonal injury. NOTE
1.
Remove drain plug and drain all from chaincase.
left
foo trest
Remove gear shifter lever and assembly.
WARNING
On 19 79 models remove exhaust system components on left side of motorcycle.
1979· Early 1984
2.
6·11
~~ . ~r~ven plate (8) 12' P nve plate (8) 13' Hr·bssure plate . u nut
1. Nut, pressure I 2. Releasing dl pate (6) 3. Stud spacer sc 4. Releasing dl (6) 5. Relaasln Sc collar 6. Spring 19 disc bearing 75,nner S' RPrlng, outer . 81alnlng rln
14. Hub nut I 15. Clutch h ockwasher 16. Clutch hUb assy.
I.
17 s ell . Retaining rln
9. Outer drive pf~t:u,er drive plate
18. Bearing,
Clut~h ~~!~Ih shell bearing
•. Clutch (1979 • Early 1984) Figure 68
3. Check fil of replace both parts ramp 11lever (7) hub T .'cess1v. w~~'
NOTE
Cable and rePI8cemen~~~t2) wit h sleeve S an (14) 8re lo ose
p:'t: assembl/'~u~~~ available for
4.
3) and washer
co,e:~ cab~
Inspecting and Mechanism Repairing Clute (Figure 6.5) and Clutch Cable h Release 1. 2.
Wash clutch relea sing . parts in cl . Inspect 3 ba lls ( eanmg solvent.
p~~~i
ra~p
(9) and
0 repl ace r eXists boss and (9), remove stak'ln g . washer (10) wit h old part. Install ne from cover boss. Stake registered in against In cover. If clute 55 In 3 places 0 ch of cover retain ramp worn, replace e.cable ends (12) to are frayed or
~ r~mp
Assembling CI Mechanism utch Release (Figure 6.5) and Clutch Cable
ra mps (7) and (9) 8) for and wear bait socket surfaces of breakdown . ' pitt ing or surface
1. 6-12
Install cable parts (15), (14), (13), and (12) In cover.
2.
Attach cable coupling (1 1) to cable end and Install in lever (7).
3.
Grease ball ramps and install ramp parts (10), (9), (8), and (7).
4.
Use lock ring pliers to install retaining ring (6) in groove of ramp lever (7).
5.
Assemble clutch release adjusti ng screw (5), lock· washer (4), and locknut (3) In cover. NOTE
Before installing cover on engine clutch, release lever must be correctly adjusted so that 3 balls are centered at bottom of each ramp with no play in clutch cable. 6.
Press down on lever (7) to feel when three balls are centered in ramps, and adjust cable sleeve (15) to take all slack out of cable.
7.
Install chain case cover on engine; tighten cover screws to BO·110 in·lbs torque. Fill with correct amount of lubricant as described in TRANSM IS· SION. Adjust clutch as described previously under ADJUSTING CLUTCH RELEASE MECHAN ISM.
8.
Install access plug in cover. Install gear shifllever, tightening pinch bolt to 90 to 110 in·lbs torque. Install left footrest assembly, tightening mounting nut to 24·36 ft·lbs torque.
DISASSEMBLY (Figure 6-8) WARNING
Figure 6·9. Compressing Clutch Spring to Disassemble Clutch (1979 . Early 1984) plate (9), pressure plate (12) and stud spacers (3) will come out as a unit by pulling on pressure plate studs. 8.
Use CLUTCH LOCKING TOOL, Part No. 91042, to hold clutch hub (IS, Figure 6·10). 8end ears of lockwasher (14) away from hub nul (13). Remove clutch hub nut (13).
9.
Remove clutch hub (15) from splines of clutch gear. If necessary, use PULLER, Part No. HD·97292·61 , and two 1/4·20 x 4 in. long screws, as shown in Figure 6·11.
10.
Remove nut securi ng sprocket on engine sprocket shalt.
11.
Remove sprocket from splines of shaft usi ng slotted portion of PULLER, Part No. HD·97292-61, and two long boits as shown in Figure 6·11. As sprocket becomes loose on shaft, remove clutch shell, front chain and sprocket together.
To avoid accidental start-up of vehicle and possible per· sonal injury, disconnect the battery cables (negative cable first) before performing any of the following pro· cedures. 1.
Remove drain plug and drain oil from chain case.
2.
Remove gear shifter lever, left footrest assembly and front chain cover.
3.
Loosen primary chain adjuster.
4.
Install CLUTCH SPRING COMPRESSING TOOL, Part No.HO-9717B-71, on crankcase by screwing in· to the crankcase cover screw holes as shown in Figure 6·9.
5.
Compress releasing disc (2, Figure 6-8) with tool to take pressure off nuts (1) and remove nuts.
6.
8ack off center screw of tool and remove releasing disc (2) and springs (6) and (7). Remove tool.
7.
Remove retaining ring (B) from groove in clutch shell (16). All clutch plates (10) and (11), outer drive
INSPECTION AND REPAIR (Figure 6-8) 1.
Inspect clutch springs (6) and (7) for damage or col· lapsed condition. Spring damage usually results from excessive heat. Free length of a new inner and outer spring is approximately 2-25/64 in. Any that check below service wear limit of 2·11132 should be replaced.
2.
Examine the 8 steel drl ....en plates (10) for warpage and excessive wear, grooving or scoring on running surface. Replace if necessary. See SPECIFICATIONS. Steel plates that have turned blue from heat only and are smooth and generally in good condition can be used again alter being thoroughly cleaned.
6-13
Figure 6·10. Holding Clutch Hub (1979 . Early 1984)
3.
Pay particular attention to the 8 friction drive plates (11). Plates that have badly worn, grooved, scored or burned friction surfaces should be replaced. If oil grooves are worn away, replace fric· tion plates.
4.
Examine bearing (18) in clutch shell (16) lor roughness or excessive play. If necessary to replace bearing (18), remove relain· ing ring (17) with a large lock ring pliers and press out.
5.
Examine bearing (5) In releasing disc (2) for roughness or excessive play and replace if necessary. Collar (4) can be reused.
6.
Inspect clutch shell (16) for badly worn splines, loose rivets, worn sprocket teeth or damaged ring gear teeth. 11 noticeably damaged, replacement clutch shell is recommended.
Figure 6·11. Pulling Clutch Hub and Sprocket From Shafts (1979· Early 1984)
3.
Tighten nut to 110-150 ft·lbs torque. Bend ear of washer (14) against hex·head of hub nul. Clutch hub must run free on shaft after tightening.
NOTE
ASSEMBLY (Figure 6-8) Assembl y is essentially the reverse order of disassembly. Be certain that all parts are clean before reassembling. 1.
Install spacer, then clutch shell, Iront chain and sprocket in one operation.
2.
Install clutch hub on clutch gear splines. Use CLUTCH LOCKING TOOL, Part No. HD·91042. in· stall a new lockwasher (14) over clutch gear spl ines and install hub nut (3).
6·14
On kick start models, if starter clutch, clutch shell or clutch gear have been replaced, it Is absolutely necessary to check the clearance between teeth on starter ratchet gear and starter ratchet as described In KICK STARTER.
4.
Install SPROCKET LOCKING LINK, Part No. HD97200-55A on engine sprocket. Tighten engine sprocket nut to 150-165 fI-lbs torque.
5.
See Figure 6-8. Remove locking tools and install pressure plate (12) over clutch hub splines, against back side of hub, studs side facing oul.lnstall st ud spacers (3) on studs.
6.
7.
Place a drive plate (11) next 10 the pressure plate (12). Place a driven plate (10) over studs into clutch shell and sprocket assembly and push inward against the friction plate. Alternate plates until 8 of each are in position. This will leave a driven plate on the outside. Install outer drive plale (9) (friction malerial in) and Inslall retaining ring (8) in clutch shell groove. Make sure all plates have free movement. Install CLUTCH SPRING COMPRESSOR TOOL, Part No. HD·97178·71, on crankcase (see Figure 6·9). Install springs (6) and (7, Figure 6-8) and releasing disc (2) under tool screw. Compress parts so that pressure plate (12) studs enter 6 holes In releasing disc to start nuts (1) on threads (see Figure 6·7). Remove tool. Tighten nuts (1, Fig· ure 6·8) until releasing disc bottoms on spacers (3).
8.
Install primary chain cover using new gasket and correct length screws in proper holes. Tighten screws to 80·110 in·lbs torque.
9.
Readjust primary chain tension, refer to FRONT CHAIN
10.
Adjust clutch release screw as described previously under ADJUSTING CLUTCH RELEASE MECHANISM.
11.
See Figure 6·5. With motorcycle standing straight up, remove plug (l7)and oil level screw (18). Add 24 oz. of oil through plug (17), (use Harley·Davidson POWER BLEND SUPER PREMIUM Oil), until it begins to overflow through oil level hole. Allow ex· cess oil to flow from hole until it ceases to run. This is correct oil level.
12.
Reconnect battery cables, positive cable first.
6-15
TRANSMISSION (1979 . EARLY 1984) GENERAL The transmission internal shifter mechanism, mainshaft and countershaft groups afe an integral part of the engine crankcase assembly. These groups may be serviced directly by removing the access cover from the crankcase as described in REMOVING TRANSMISSION ACCESS COVER, thereby exposing all transmission parts for repair.
OISASSEMBL Y Removing Transmission Access Cover Unless transmission Is damaged inside so that It not be shifted from one position to another, shift high gear. Place an oil drain pan under engine remove chain case cover, clutch, front chain sprocket as described in CLUTCH.
canInto and and
Remove rear chain sprocket cover on right side of motorcycle as described in STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR ENGINE REPAIR. See Figure 6-12. Remove transmission mainshaft nut (1) and lockwasher (2). Remove rear drive chain. If main· shaft sprocket (3) is tight on shaft use an ALL PURPOSE CLAW PULLER, Part No. HD-95635-46, to remove sprocket. To avoid looth breakage, grasp two teeth with each end of puller. Remove retainer screws (4), oil seal and retainer (5) and gasket (6).
1. Access cover 2. Access coyer cap screws (4) Figure 6·13. Transmission Access Coyer (1979 . Early 1984)
See Figure 6·13. Remove four access cover cap screws (2). Remove access cover (1) from crankcase with transmission parts attached to the cover (see Figure 6-14) by tap, ping on mainshaft end from right side of motorcycle. This above method removes the complete transmission. Remove thrust washer (24, Figure 6-16) and 23 rollers from crankcase.
1. Malnshaft nut 2. Malnshaft lockwasher 3. Malnshaft sprocket 4. all seal retainer screw and lockwasher (4) 5. 011 seal and retainer 6. 011 seal gasket
Figure 6·12. Transmission Malnshaft Sprocket (1979 ·Early 1984) 6-17
Figure 6·15. Alternate Method of Removing Transmission Access Cover (1979 - Early 1984)
Mainshaft and Countershaft Group (Figure 6·18) Remove mainshalt (2), from access cover. Remove low gear (5) from malnshaft splines. Remove retainer ring (6) from groove In malnshaft using TRANSMISSION SHAFT RETAINING PLIERS, Part No. J-5586, and discard ring. Slip washer (7) and third gear (8) from mainshafl.
Figure 6·1 4. Transmission Removed (1979 · Early 1984) An alternate method of removing the access cover is to pull it out using ACCESS COVER PULLER, Part No. HD-95560-57, as shown In Figure 6·15. The difference between this method and the one above is that the main· shaft remains attached to the right crankcase half. In this case, do not remove sprocket (3, Figure 6-12) from malnshaft. Attach tool as shown in Figure 6·15.
Shifter Mechanism (Figure 6·16) To disassemble shllter mechanism, remove cap screw (1) and lock (2). With a snap ring pliers, remove retaining ring (3) and washer (4). Free cam (5), pawl carrier (6), pawl carrier support (7) and pawl carrier support shims (8) (JI used). Remove pawl carrier springs (9) from pawl carrier support. To disassemble pawl assembly, remove retaining rings (13) to free pawls, spacers, and springs (10), (11), and (12) from pawl carrier (6). To free shifter forks (14) and linger rollers (15), remove fork shaft (20) from access cover. Mark larks so they can be reas· sembled in same position. 6-18
Remove retaining ring (22), press clutch gear (10) and bearing (20) from access cover (9). Apply pressure only to bearing (20) outer race. Press clutch gear (10) from bearing (20). Remove countershaft assembly from ac· cess cover. Remove low gear washer (11) and third gear (12) Irom countershaft. Press drive gear (13) from countershaft splines and remove gear spacer (14), second gear (15) and thrust washer (16). Free countershaft low gear (18) and low gear washer (19). Drift out oiler plug (22) from Inside of access cover.
INSPECTION AND REPAIR Thoroughly clean transmission compartment and all shifter, malnshaft, and countershaft parts with cleaning solvent. Be certain malnshaft loose roller all passage Is clean. Blow parts dry with compressed air and Inspect to determine II any must be replaced. Replace all parts that are badly worn or damaged.
Transmission Malnshaft Sprocket (Figure 6·12) Inspect sprocket (3) for badly worn (hooked) or damaged sprocket teet h and splines. Di scard gasket (6). Check all seal and retalner (5), lockwasher (2) and malnshaft nut (1).
/~ 31
32
~3
25 ~ 22
1
: c£,,'~ 21
J , _ 33 & - 34
13
I
30 19
17
8
/'1
L- '" ~~ _ 26
29"~ \Wt~ rct" '®:I' ,J'r \/~~ K~ 7 •
11
.......
~
J
,/
~ a- ~ /
,/@ oq
~~/~
6
~10
Available In + .020 In.
standard,
' .............. '2
or- .02OIn .
sizes I
............. '3
r;;)
15 '----
•
~ 14
'~20 ~
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7.
~~,,~
<;;/,
15. 16. 17. 18. 19.
Pawl carrier Pawl cant.r support
8. Shim (.010 thick) as required 9. Pawl Clmer .pring. (2)
~.-l
'l
/t:2::'':::~__....",.•. -0-:::;;;1---, 15
14. Gelr shifter forb (2) (variable)
Ge.r ,hlft.r cam
10. Pawl (2) 11. Pawl spring 12. Pawl spacer (2)
'--
13. Retaining ring (2)
Bolt Lockwasher Retaining ring Thrust wash.r
3
\
/~ '"
16
2
,
W
\~" ' ~ · \.//>2.~27
Q
,.
29 \
Anger rollers (2) Cam follower Cam tollower spring Cam follower retainer Ret.'ner lock
20. Fork ,halt
21. Lever arm ,haft 22. Shlft.r thalt bUlhlngs 23. Shllt.r ,haft 011 ... ,
25. Pin plwillft.r arm (2) 26. Upper pawillfler arm 27. lower pawllllt.r arm
28. CIIrrier spring retainer p(ug (2) 29. CIIm support p(n (2) 30. Shift shalt bushing 31 . Lever 32. Shift lever 33. Washer 34. 801t
24. Thrust wuher
Figure 6-16. Shlltlng Mech.nlsm (1979 - Early 1984)
Shlfler Mechanism (Figure 6,16) Discard gear shifter cam retaining ring (3). Carefully examine gear shifter cam (5) for grooved or worn cam slots at the various running gear positions. Excessive wear at thrust points will make the transmission difficult to shift through gear range. Inspect gear Shifter pawl carrier (6) lor depressions or grooves worn in lingers that engage shifter lever arm shaft (21). A badly worn yoke Is caused by rubbing action of lever arm shaft ball, and will result in transmission lumping out of gear. Exam ine pawl carrier support for breakage or minute surface cracks. Loosely assemble shilter cam (5), pawl carrier (6), support (7), shims (8) (If used), and check bearing action for appreciable play. Parts that show extremely worn or pitted su rfaces should be replaced.
Examine pawl carrier springs (9) for breakage or damage caused by acids in all. if possible, compare old springs with new springs. New spring free length is approximately 2-21132 in.
CAUTION
Do not use cadmium plated, 14-<:011 pawl carrier springs. Use only cadmium plated, 16-coll springs or black phosphatlzed springs, 14 or l&.coll. when reassembling pawl carrier support_ Examine shifter pawls (10) for wear, grooves, cracks or breakage. Check lor wear or damage 10 pawl (10) and carrier (6). Free length of new spring (11) Is approximately 1-314 in. between hooks. 6-19
.,,"
2nd Gear
lat Gear
Neutral
4th Gear
3rd Gear
-Power flow
_
- Sliding member
Figure 6-17. Power Flow Chart (1979· Early 1984)
6·20
Check shifter larkS (14) lor bent condition or deep grooves worn Into fork lingers caused by excessive thrust action 01 gears. Also examine both shilter larks (14) and linger rollers (15) for breakage. Inspect shifter cam follower (16) and spring (17) lor wear and damage, especially on thrust face of follower. Check movement of follower and spring In retainer (18). Free length of new spring is approximately 1-19132 In. Check shalt (20) for bent or damaged condition by slip· ping shifter forks on shalt and noting if they have Iree movement on shalt. Inspect gear shifter lever arm shaft (21) for wear or bent condition. Temporarily install shalt in crankcase and check lor appreciable play in bushings (22). If inspec· tion indicates replacement of bronze bushings (22), it is first necessary to remove gearcase cover as described in GEAACASE, Section 3. Pry oil seal (23) from recess in shalt hole with screwdriver and drill bushings Irom right case and gearcase cover. Alter pressing in new bushings, Install lever arm shalt (21). Shaft must work
1. Malnshat! second gear 2. Transmission mainshaft 3. Malnshaft thrust washer (yarlable thickness) . Controls end play of mainshaft 4. Transmission malnshaft roller (23) 5. Malnshaft low gear 8. Malnshat! third gear retainer ring 7. Malnshaft third gear washer 8. Malnshaft third gear 9. Access coyer 10. Clutch gear 11. Variable thrust washer Controls clearance between gears 12. Countershaft third gear 13. Countershaft driye gear 14. Countershaft gear spacer
freely in bushings. Remove any high spots from bush· ings with a hall· Inch reamer. To ensure against oil leak· age, replace all seal (23) when reassembling.
Mainshaft and Countershaft Group (Figure 6·17) The Illustrations show the transfer of power through transmission . Note the change in gear position lor each of the four speeds and neutral. Inspect gears for badly battered, chipped or rounded dogs and slots at all thrust paints. This condition will be evidenced by transmission Jumping out of gear. Exam· ine gear teeth for pitting, scoring, cracked, chipped can· ditlon or case hardening worn through . Inspect main· shalt, countershaft and all gears for pitting, grooving and excessive wear on bearing surfaces. Slip gears on shalts and check for wear and appreciable play. If not within service limits as given in transmission SPECIFICATiONS, replace worn parts.
15. 16. 17. 18. 19.
Countershaft second gear Countershaft second gear thrust washer Transmission countershaft Countershaft low gear Countershaft low gear washer (yariable thickness) · 25. Clutch gear bushing Countrols end play of 26. Clutch gear needle rolier bearing countershaft 27. Malnshaft thrust washer 20. Malnshaft ball bearing 26. Malnshaft rolier bearing race 21. Malnshaft ball bearing 29. Malnshaft roller bearing shaft ring retainer ring 22. Retaining ring 30. Malnshaft rolier bearing washer 23. Countershafl oller plug 31. Countershaft bearing· closed 24. Countershaft low gear end 32. CountershaU bearing. open end bushing
Figure 6-18. Transmlllion (1979 . Eariy 1984) .. 21
MAINS HAFT BEARINGS
To replace clutch gear bushing (25, Figure 6·18) and nee· die railer bearing (26), first drift bushing (25) from gear (10). Drift needle roller bearing (26) and thrust washer (27) from opposite end of gear. Press new bushing into clutch gear (10). Insert mainshaft (2) in clutch gear (10) and check to be sure shaft is .001 to .002 in. loose in gear. A new bushing may close up and require reaming to size. Use REAMER, Part No. HD·94829·42, for this operation. Install needle railer bearing (26) and thrust washer (27), pressing on printed side of bearing only. Position mainshaft (2) in FLYWHEEL TRUING DEVICE Part No. HD·96650-a0. Rotate shaft and, with a dial in· dlcator, check shaft for bent condition. Shaft that Is .003 in. or more out of true must be replaced. Check the countershaft (17) In the same manner. If countershaft is 0.003 in. out of true, replace it. Inspect mainshaft ball bearing (20). Tolerances of clutch gear (10) in ball bearing and ball bearing In ac· cess cover (9) are given in transmission SPECIFICA· TIONS. If bearing is not within specification limits or is worn to the extent that it has appreciable play or shake, replace it. To remove ball bearing (20) from access cover (9), first remove and discard retaining ring (22). Support access cover on arbor press and press ball bearing (20) and clutch gear (10) from cover. Apply pressure only to bear· Ing outer race. Use press to push clutch gear (10) from ball bearing (20). Apply pressure only to bearing inner race. Do not drive bearing from access cover (9) or clutch gear (10) with a hammer and drift as damage to bearing is likely to result.
Replace needle roller bearings (31) and (32) if worn and not within tolerances outlined In transmission SPECIFI· CATIONS. Bearings are a press lit and should be reo moved for replacement of parts only. Apply pressure to printed side of bearing when pressing into position. Press needle roller bearing (32) into access cover 5164 in. from inner side. NOTE
Oller plug (23) must be ins talled with all hole up, as posl· tioned on access cover, after countershaft end play has been established.
ASSEMBLY Lubricate all parts with Harlev·Davldson POWER BLEND SUPER PREMIUM oil before assembly, proceed as follows:
Shifter Assembly (Figure 6·16) 1.
Install cam follower retainer (18) and retainer lock (19) Into access cover. Tighten to 17·25 ft·lbs torque. Bend lock tabs against cam follower retainer (18).
2.
Position pawls (10) with spacers (12), as shown, on· to pawl carrier (6) and secure with new retaining rings (13). Install pawl spring (11).
3.
Assemble shifter cam (5) into pawl carrier (6), retracting pawls one at a time to do so. Insert assembly Into support (7), with ear of pawl carrier (6) between springs (9). Secure with thrust washer (4) and a new retaining ring (3).
To reassemble ball bearing, reverse the order of disassembly. Press bearing (20) flush to shoulder on clutch gear (10). Install new retaining ring (22). Examine all thrust washers and replace any that are badly worn or damaged. MAINSHAFT ROLLER BEARINGS
Inspect railers (4) and roller bearing race (28) and replace If badly pitted, scored or worn beyond filling specifications. To remove a badly worn bearing race, remove retainer ring (29) and roller bearing washer (30). Discard ring (29). Heat case surrounding bearing and drive race inward from outside of case. Press new race in until shoulder Is against case inner surface. See transmission SPECIFI· CATIONS for correct fit of mainshaft right side roller bearing.
Operate cam (5) to be sure pawls (10) engage cor· rectly with cam ratchet.
Countershaft and Shaft Assembly (Figure 6·18) 1.
Assemble thrust washer (16), second gear (15) and gear spacer washer (14) on countershaft (17). Assemble drive gear (13) on shaft. Make sure gear (15) turns freely.
2.
Install countershaft group into access cover.
3.
Assemble mainshaft second gear (t) wllh shifter fork (14, Figure 6·16). Slip shifter fork over fork shaft (20) with finger roller stud toward access cover and fork fingers engaged in running slot of gear.
4.
Repeat operation with second fork (15) and countershatt third gear (12). Position finger railer stud away from access cover.
COUNTERSHAFT BEARINGS
To replace countershafllow gear bushing (24), press old bushing out and new bushing in.
6·22
Countershaft spacing .028 to .058 In. 41h Space slid ing gears as equally as possible on both sides Neutral position
Malnshaft spacing .028 to .058 in.
Figure &19. Gear Spacing 5.
Install finger rollers (15) on shifter forks (14). Insert cam follower (16) and spring (17) in follower reo tainer (18). Be sure cam follower (16) is free in cam follower retainer (18).
6.
Assemble pawl and cam assembly to access cover. install shims (8) as removed; secure with bolt (1) and lockwasher (2), tighten to 20·30 ft·lbs torque. Bend lock tab against bolt (1).
7.
1979· Early 1984 gear washer (7), and retainer ring (6) onto main· shaft (2). Use MAINSHAFT THIRD GEAR RETAIN· ING RING SLEEVE, Part No. HD·96396·52, to install retainer ring (6) into groove in mainshaft (2). This tool prevents the retainer ring from spreading out of shape during assembly. NEVER reuse a retainer ring. 8.
Install low gear (5, Figure 6·18), third gear (8), third
Insert assembled mainshaft group in second gear (1) and clutch gear (10). Install the low gear variable washer (11) and position against shoulder on countershaft. Install low gear (18) onto counter· shaft.
Establishing Proper Gear Spacing 1.
See Fig ure 6·20. Using a feeler gauge, check clearance between clutch faces and gears, as shown. See SP ECIFICATIONS for clearance tolerances. See Figure 6-19. Clearance between a sliding gear and its mating members must be equal on both sides.
2.
Adjust spacing by:
a. Changing shift forks (14, Figure 6-16) size (- .020 In., standard and + .020 in. sizes are available). Changing forks will move individual sliding gears.
Figure &20. Measuring Gear Spacing - 1979· Early 1984
b. See Figure 6·16. Changing pawl carrier support shims (8). Adding or deleting shims will move both shaft forks, the same distance in the same direction.
25% Engagement
50% Engagement
Figure 6-21. Gear Engagement -
1979· Early 1984
Gear Engagement 1.
After correct gear spacing has been achieved mechanical gear engagement must be checked. With complete transmission assembled to access door observe gear dog/pocket engagement:
2.
See Figure 6·22. Slowly rotale pawl carrier until pawl carrier contacts lifter arm. Use hand pressure on shifter cam to prevent cam follower from com· pleting shifts.
3.
See Figure 6·21. Shift transmission Into all four gears (upshift and downshift), as instructed above. Observe, In each shift, gear dog/pocket engage· ment. Engagement of gear dog into pocket must be at least 50% in every gear except low gear which Is
Figure 6·22. Checking Gear Mechanical Engagement - 1979· Early 1964 c. Changing gear shaft thrust washer (11) (.065, .075, .085, .100 In. thick sizes are available). This can be used In conjunction with shift forks and pawl shims 10 establish proper counlershaft 3rd gear spacing.
25%. See Figure 6·16. Filing or replacing lifter arms (26 and 27) will produce changes in gear dog/pocket engagements.
NOTE
Releasing hand pressure will allow cam follower to further rotate shifter cam. This motion combined with the action of gear back angles will draw gear dogsfpockets into complete engagement.
If gear shaft thrust washer(11) is changed, countershaft end play wfll have to be checked and may require reshlmmlng.
See Figure 6·16. Filing or replacing lifter arms (26 and 27) will prOduce changes in gear dog/pocket engagements .
.. 24
4.
Establishing Malnshall and Countershall End Play (Figure 6·18) Temporarily select the thinnest variable low gear washer{s) (19, Figure 6-18) and malnshafl thrust washer (3) and InstaH In their respective positions. On early 1983 and prior vehicles, the mainshaft thrust washer has a tang. Install thrust washer (3) with tang down as positioned In transmission compartment. Temporarily install access cover to crankcase with all transmission parts. Carefully align cover on dowel pins, and, with a rawhide maliet, genlfy tap cover inlo position. Secure access cover with four cap screws, (2, Figure 6·13). USing a dial indicator, check end play 01 mainshaft (2, Figure 6·18) gaugIng from sprocket side of shaft. Press against clutch gear (10) so that bearing (20) seats against lock ring (21) In access cover. Move shaft back and forth and measure end ptay while holding clutch gear in. With access cover sUlI in place, measure end play of countershaft from access cover side using a dial Indicator. Bend a discarded spoke and wedge In countershaft end hole. Pull and push counlershaft and al the same time, measure amount of end play. If end play of transmission malnshaft (2) is not within .003 minimum or countershaft (17) is not within .004 to .009 in. limits, II is necessary to remove access cover and In· stall correct size variable thickness thrust washers (3) and (19) to obtain correct fit. Variable thickness main· shaft thrust washers (3) are availabie in four sizes, 0.098 In., 0.107 in., 0.116 in., and 0.125 in. for 1979 and up vehicles, and in ten thicknesses 0.030 in. to 0.085 In. for 1978 and earlier vehicles. Countershaft thrust washers (19) are available In nine thicknesses 0.020 In. to 0.075 In. for ail vehicles. With mainshaft and countershaft end play established, center the gear shifter lever arm shaft (21, Figure 6·16), so thai it will engage with gear shifter pawl yoke when access cover Is in place. Make sure lever arm Is correct· Iy engaged with shifter pawl yoke by IighUy rotating countershaft and testing for engagement. With transmission and access cover assembled, install 23 malnshalt rollers (4, Figure &-18). Install roller bear· ing washer (3O)and roller bearing retainer ring (29).
screws (4). Do not Ughten screws (4). Temporarily posl· tlon sprocket (3) on malnshalt to correctly locate reo tainer (5). Remove sprocket (3) and securely tighten screws (4). Reassemble sprocket, lock washer (2) and mainshaft nut (I). Tighten nut (1) to 35-65 It·lbs torque. Bend ears ollockwasher (2) against head of nut (I). Install rear drive chain. See REAR CHAIN, REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION. CAUTION Make sure that rea r chain spring clip open end traUs the dlractlon of cha in t ravel. Install starter as described in STARTER, Section 5. Install clutch as described in this section, under CLUTCH. Fill transmission compartment with all as described In this section, under LUBRICATION.
Crankcase and Transmission The following assembly procedure should be followed only if the crankcases have been separated, an opera· tlon normally performed In conjunction with a complete engine overhaul. Position left crankcase side on workbench with transmission compartment facing up. Proceed to assemble transmission shifter mechanism, mainshaft and countershaft groups as described in TRANSMIS· SION ASSEMBLY. To establish correct transmission malnshaft and countershaft end play, temporarily assemble right and left crankcase sides, less flywheel assembly, together with two upper and two lower case bolls. Then, lollow the procedure lor establishing correct end playas described in ESTABLISHING MAINS HAFT AND COUN· TERSHAFT END PLAY. Disregard instructions pertain· Ing to removing and Installing access cover. When transmission Is completely reassembled and cor· rect tolerances establ1shed, continue to reassemble crankcase as described in ASSEMBLING CRANKCASE, Section 3. Fill transmission compartment with 011 as described below.
CAUTION Roller washer must be Installed between roller. and r. ring or engine damage may result.
LUBRICATION
t al n l ~
Malnshafl Sprocket, Starter and Clutch Assemblies (Figure 6·12) Instal\loot shifllever and shift transmission Into fourth gear. Install gasket (6), 011 seal and retainer (5) and
With motorcycle standing straight up, remove 011 filler plug using PLUG REMOVAL TOOL, Part No. H0.J3186, and 011 level screw. The 011 filler plug is located near the lOp of the chain case cover and the oil level screw Is located near the bottom of the chain case cover. Refill transmission with Harley·Davidson POWER BLEND SUPER PREM IUM OIL. If POWER BLEND SUPER PREMIUM OIL is not available, use grade 20150
6-25
above 40· F., and grade 58W below 40· F. (approximate· Iy 24 oz.). Add 011 until II begins to overflow through 011 level hole. Permit excess oil to flow from oil level hole until il ceases 10 run. This Is Ihe correcl oil level. Re· insert and tighten 011 level screw and oil filler plug.
6·26
Drain transmission and refill 10 correct level with fresh, clean 011 once each year or every 5000 miles, whichever comes lirst.
KICK STARTER 1979 XLCH GENERAL
worn slarler ralchelleelh (18 and 6), damaged spring (8) or ralchel gear (6) binding on spacer
The kick starter Is designed for rugged service and will seldom require attention. However, If any irregularity should develop It is of utmost Importance that the engine be turned off and starter mechanism serviced Immediately.
OISASSEMBL Y (Figure 6-23)
m.
See Figure 6-23. A service problem will be indicated by a ralchetlng (clicking) sound with engine running and starler crank upright as positioned on motorcycle. RatcheUng Is caused by the starter ratchet gear (6) teeth making partial contact with starter ratchet (18) teeth, as the result of either a loose kick starter shaft nut (9), excessive kick starter crankshaft (11) end play or a loose starter c rank gear cam plate (20).
Remove slarter crank clamp boll and relalnlng ring (1). Remove starter crank (2). Remove right footres t assembly. Remove rear brake master cylinder mounting bolls and move master cylinder up, out of Ihe way. Do not disconnect brake line. Remove acorn nut and lever from rear brake pivot shaft. Loosen the exhaust pipe and muffler. Remove sprocket cover screws and sprocket cover (5). Remove clutch as described in CLUTCH DISASSEMBLY.
If the kick starter crank (2) slips or partially engages when crank Is rolaled Ihrough lis cycle, check for badly
1. Crank clamp bolt, retaining ring 2. Crank and pedal ••••mbly 3. Cr.nk .pring 4. Cr.nk clamp .nd boll (2) 5. Sprocket cover 8. Starter ratch.t gear 7. Clutch aprock.t apacer (avail.bl. In v.rtoua I.ngtha)
8. 9. 10. 11 .
12. 13. 14. 15.
Rotate kick starter crank gear (12) to free starter ratchet
Ratch.t aprlng Shaft nut Crank g.ar lockw.aher Crank.haft Crank gear Crank 041 a•• 1 Crankshaft shim · .007" Shaft thrust pl.t.
18. Shaft bushing (2) 17. Spring stud 18. St.rter r.tchet 19. Crank g.ar cam pl.t. rivet (5) 20. Crank gear cam pl.te 21. Crank gear slop pin 22. Crank gear stop pin w.sher 23. Bushing 24. Gre... fitting
Figure &-23. Kick Starter
6-27
gear (6), spacer (7) and spring (8). Remove crank nut (9) and lockwasher (10). Tap end of kick starter crankshaft (11) with a soft mattet to loosen from gear (12). Remove crankshaft (11), oil seal (13), thrust plate (15), and shims (14), if used. NOTE
Shims (14) are only used to establish correct crankshaft end play when crankshaft and thrust washer are worn.
INSPECTION AND REPAIR (Figure 6-23) Clean all parts in cleaning solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Inspect and replace starter ratchet gear and starter rat· chet (6 and 18), if necessary. Especially check lor badly worn or damaged ratchet teeth that may cause partial or no engagement of ratchel (18) and gear (6). Examine gear (6) bushing face for burred or damaged condition affecting free movement of gear on spacer (7). Recheck lor binding by assembling gear on spacer and note ac· tion of two paris. Examine starler ratchet spring (8) for collapsed condi· lion or breakage, and compare with new spring, il pos· sible. New spring free length is approximately 1 in. Inspect kick starter crankshaft (11) for bent condition or badly worn bearing surfaces and particularly for wear on thrust plate (15) and shaft collar faces. Temporarily position shaft (11), seal (13) and plate (14), gear (12), washer (10) and nut (9) in left case and check crankshaft end play with dial indicator. If end play is not within specified limits of .001 to .007 in. it is absolulely necessary to shim crankshaft. Use .007 in. thickness shim, Pari No. 6802, between crankcase and thrust washer to obtain correct fit as shown in Figure 6·24. Examine starter crank gear assembly (12) for wear and damage. Pay particular attention to cam plate (20) ears for wear or bent condition. Check for loose cam plate rivets (19) that may result in cam plate separating from crank gear. Cam plate may be replaced providing gear (12) is in good condition. When riveting new cam plale to crank gear, insert rivets from gear side. Check lockwasher (10) and oil seal (13), if worn or damaged, replace parts. Bronze bushings (16) are a press fit in transmission sprocket cover (5) and left crankcase. Bushings are long life parts and will seldom require replacement, however, if shaft (11) is not badly worn and excessive starter crankshaft radial play is noled, bushings should be replaced when installing sprocket cover bushing be sure to correctly align hole in bushing with cover grease fitting channel. 6·28
1. Starter crankshaft shim· .007" 2. Starter shaft thrust plate 3. Starter crank gear stop pin washer Figure 6·24. Installing Starter Crankshaft Slarter gear stop pin (21) and washer (22) ordinarily will not require replacement, and it is recommended pro· cedure to inspect and replace stop pin only with engine removed from chassis. Stop pin is a press fit in crankcase. Washer is locked in place by peening stop pin end.
ASSEMBLY (Figure 6-23) Install oil seal (13) in left crankcase. Slip crankshaft through hole in motor mount~ Slip thrust plate (15) on starter crankshaft (11), flat side of plate up as position· ed on motorcycle. Insert steel shims (14) on crankshaft if needed, as described under INSPECTION AND REPAIR, and install crankshaft In left case engaging notched thrust plate (15) with stop pin washer (22) using grease to hold in place (see Figure 6·24). Turn starter crankshaft until notch (A, Figure 6·23) is to the rear as positioned on motorcycle. Place starter crank gear on squared end of shaft, recessed portion of cam plate facing down, end of slot against stop pin as
shown in Figure 6·25. When positioning crank gear (12) on shaft (1 1) be extremely careful that thrust plate does not become dislocated from stop pin washer (see Figure 6·25). Slip lockwasher (10) over crankshaft end (11) engaging prong of washer with hole In crank gear face. Install and securely lighten crank nut (9) to 55·65 ft·lbs torque, with flat side of nut against washer. Slip starter ratchet gear (6) over spacer (7), grooved side of gear bushing against lip of spacer collar. Position small end of spring (8) in clutch gear bushing groove. Place starter ratchet gear assembly on clutch gear, compressing spring (8) and at the same time turning starter crank gear to permit meshing of gear teeth. Return starter crank gear to original position as shown In Figure 6·25, with clutch ratchet held against cam plate by spring tension. Check gear (6) and crank gear (12) to see that there is a gear lash (play) through range of engagement.
Install transmission sprocket cover (5) and screws. In· stall exhaust pipe and muffler. Reinstall master cylinder and adjust as described under REAR BRAKE.
CAUTION See Figure 6·23. If clutch sprocket spacer only (7), Is replaced, the new spacer must be exactly the same length as the old spacer. Reassemble ASSEMBLY.
clutch
as
described
Figure 6·25. Positioning Starter Crank Gear On Starter Shaft
in
CLUTCH
Slip spring (3) over squared end of shaft (11), end of spring and notch (A, Figure 6·23) up as positioned on motorcycle. Using a screwdriver rotate spring clockwise and engage with stud (17). Install starter crank (2) and bolt and retaining ring (1).
6-29
SPECIFICATIONS (LATE 1984 AND 1985) TRANSMISSION Capacity 1.5pts.
Chain case lubricant.
Overall Gear Ratios 10.01
First (LOw) gear. Second gear Third gear Fourth (High) gear ..... .... .•..
7.25 5.49
TORQUES
3.97
Mainshaft n ut locking SGrew . Mainshaft nut .. . .. .. ......... • • . Access cover screws. Drai n plug Front chaincase Cover screws Chain tensioner st ud nut . Stator screws (4 slotted) Stator mounting Screws (4 hex·socket) Torx fasteners .... .. ....... .
CLUTCH Type Capacity. Spring Force (engaged). (disengaged) . Clutch shell bearing on clutch gear(IOOSe) .
Second gear On shaft (lOOSe). . . . . . . . . . • . .001 in.· .0025 in. Low gear On shaft (loose). .0005 in.· .0016 in. Drive gear On shaft (lOoSe) . .0005 in . · .003 in. Clearance between faces Countershaft low and third gear. .028 in.· .058 in. Countershaft second and third gear .. 028 i n.· .058 in. Countershaft end play. . ... 004 in.· .015 in.
Wet· Mult iple disc 174 ft-Ibs 3041bs 260lbs
.0000 in. - .0010 in.
50·60 in·lbs 35·65 ft·lbs 13-15 ft·lbs 14·21 ft·lbs 80 t0 11 0in·lbs 8·12 ft·lbs 20·35 in·lbs 20·35In·lbs 30 to 40 in·lbs
SERVICE WEAR LIMITS MAINSHAFT GROUP Clutch gear ball bearing in access cover (lOOse) . Ball bearing on clutch gear (light) . Clutch gear on mainshaft (loose) Mainshaft right side retained roller bearing (loose). Mainshaft end play' (minimum) (maximum) . Third gear on shaft (loose) . ..... . . . ...... end play. Clearance between clutch faces mainshaft fourth gear and second gear. mainshaftthlrd gear and second gear.
NOTE .001 in . . 0012 in.
.0009 in.
.001 .. 002 In. .001 in. - .0034 in.
.009 in. .015 in. .002 in . . 003 in. .012 in.· .030 in.
.028 i n.' .058 In. .028 i n. · .058 in.
Wear limits are given as a guideline for measuring engine components tha t are not new. For new com· ponents or for measurements not given under SERVICE WEAR LIMITS, see the foregoing. Clutch plate stack. .025 in. Friction plate. .0025 In. .001 in. Intermediate plate. Mainshaft - clutch gear ball bearing in access cover (loose) .001 ..0035 in. Mainshaft - ball bearing on clutch gear (loOSe) .. 001 in. Clutch gear bearing .001 ..0035 in. on mainshaft (loose) . Mainshaft right side retained .001 .. 0035 in. roller bearing (loose) . Mainshaft - third gear .002 i n.· .004 in. on shaft (loose) . Countershaft bearing f it on shaft ends (loose) . .0005· .0035 in.
COUNTERSHAFT GROUP Cou ntershaft end bearings . Bearing f it on shaft ends (loose) .. Beari ng f it on case
Retained needle roller bearing .0005 in . · .003 In. press fit
6·31
CHAINS (LATE 1984 AND 1985) FRONT CHAIN
8.
Remove foreign malerial from magnetic drain plug (2). Replace and securely tIghten draIn plug to 14·21 It·lbs torque.
Replacing Chain Adjuster (Figure 6·26)
9.
Reinstall chain case cover and gasket; footrest assembly, tightening nul to 24-36 fI-lbs torque; and gear shift lever, tightening pinch boll to 90 to 110 in-Ibs torque. Adjust Ironl chain as described previously. Fill with correct amount of lubricant as described in TRANSMISSION, this sectIon.
WARNING 10. Di sconnect the battery cabl es (negative cable first) to avoid accidental startup of vehicle and possi ble per· sonallnjury.
1.
11.
Install the clutch adjusting screw nut (12, Figure 6-28) turning the adjusting screw counterclockwise until the nut fits Into the hexagon recess in the cover.
12.
Adjust the clutch as described under CLUTCH in this section, then Install the lockplate (13), spring (14) and access plug (16).
13.
Connect the negative battery cable to the battery.
Remove drain plug and drain all from the chain-
case. 2.
Remove gearshifter assembly.
lever and
left
footrest
3.
Relax chain tension by loosening locknut (1) and unscrewing the chain adjuster screw (2).
4.
Remove the clutch adjustment access plug (5). spring and lockplate from the front chain cover.
5.
Turn the clutch adjusting screw clockwise until the adjusting screw nul can be removed.
6.
Remove the screws securing the Irani chain cover and remove the cover and gasket.
2. Drain plug 3. Spring
5. Engine sprocket nut 6. Clutch assembly
Figure 6·27. Replacing Chain and Adjuster (Late 1984 and 1985) Figure 6·26. Front Chain Tension Adjustment (Late 1984 and 1985) 7.
Pull chatn adjuster (1, Figure 6·27) and spring (3) from stud. Transfer spring (3) 10 new adjusler and install assembly on Ihe crankcase stud.
REAR CHAIN See CHAINS (1979 - EARLY 1984), REA R CHAIN.
..33
CLUTCH (LATE 1984 AND 1985) GENERAL Troubleshooting Effec t
Ca use (Check in foll owi ng ord er)
Remedy
Clutch slips
Incorrect clutch release adjustment.
Check and adjust clutch release mechanism as described under CLUTCH RELEASE MECHANISM.
Clutch drags
Incorrect clutch release adjustment.
Check and adjust clutch release mechanism as described under CLUTCH RELEASE MECHANISM.
Worn clutch release ramps or balls.
Replace release ramps and lor balls. See CLUTCH RELEASE MECHANISM .
Warped clutch sleel plates.
Replace clutch sleel plates. See CLUTCH.
Badly worn or damaged clutch
sprocket splines.
Clutch Release Mechanism (Figure 6·28)
Replace clutch sprocket. See CLUTCH.
DISASSEMBLY (Figure 6·28) WA RN ING
ADJUSTMEN T
1.
loosen control cable adjuster locknut (3) and turn adjuster (2) inward until there is a large amount of free play at hand lever or handlebar.
2.
Remove access plug (16) from the front chain cover using ACCESS PLUG REMOVAL TOOL, Part No. HO·33186.
3.
Remove the adjusting screw lockplate (13) and spr· ing (14). Turn the clutch adjusting screw (15) counterclockwise until free play has been removed from the screw.
4.
5.
6.
Turn the clutch adjusting screw (5) clockwise 1/4 turn, t hen install the lockplate (13) and spring (14) on the adjusting screw flats. If the hex on the lockplate does not match up with the recess in the primary cover, rotate the adjusting screw clock· wise until the match·up is achieved, then install the access plug (16). Turn the cable adjuster (2) counterclockwise until all slack in the cable (1) is eliminated, then use cable adjuster (2) to obtain 1116 in. free play be· tween the hand lever and bracket. Tighten t he cable adjuster locknut (3).
Disconnect the battery cables (negative cable first) to avoid accidental startup of vehicle and possible per· sona l Inj ury. 1.
Remove the drain plug and drain the oil from the Iront chain case.
2.
Remove the gear shUter lever and left footrest assembly.
3.
Remove the access plug (16) from the chain cover clutch adjustment opening, then remove the spring (14) and lockplate (13). Remove the clutch adjust· ing nut (12).
4.
Loosen the locknut and back off the front chain ad· justing screw.
5.
Remove the front chain cover.
6.
Remove the screws (6) securing the release me· chanism and lift the mechanism from the cover. NOTE
Hold the release ramps (8) and (10) together to prevent the bafls (9) from falfing 8nd becoming lost.
6·35
1
-------~5
~6
10 12.. Nut
1. Cable 2. Cable adJust.er
8. Screw 7. Lockplate
13. Lockplate
3. Locknut 4. Washer
8. Inner ramp
14. Spri ng
9. Ball (3)
5. Clutch adjusting screw assembly
15. O-rIng
10. Quter ramp 11 . Coupling
Figure 6·28. Clutch Release Mechanism 7.
Disconnect the clutch cable (1) from the coupling (11).
CLEANI NG, INSPECTION AND REPAIR
1.
Wash the clutch releasing mechanism components In cleaning solvents.
2.
Inspect the three release mechanism balls (9) and ball socket surfaces on ramps (8) and (10) for wear, pitting, surface breakdown and other damage. Replace damaged parts.
3.
Check fit of the hub on ramp (10) In ramp (8) and replace both parts If excessive wear exists.
4.
Check clutch cable ends for frayed or worn ends and replace cable (1) if damaged or worn.
ASSEMBLY 1.
6·36
18. Plug
Install the locknut (3) and flat washer (4) on the cable adjuster (2), then Insert the adjuster and cable Into the front chain cover.
Late 1984 and 1985
2.
Install the cable coupling (11) on the cable end, then position the coupling in the ramp (10).
3.
Apply mu lti·purpose grease to the balls (2) and ramps (8) and (10), then Insert the balls in the ball sockets between the ramps.
4.
Position the ramp assembly on the chain cover and secure with lockptate (7) and hex head screws (6). Tighten the screws to 22-30 in·lbs, then bend the lock tabs on the lockplate to secure screws.
5.
Adjust cable sleeve (2) to take all slack out of cable.
6.
Install front chain cover on engine, tightening cov· er screws to 80·110 in·lbs torque.
7.
Refill the transmission with approxim ately 1.5 pints of Harley·Davldson FRONT CHAIN CASE LUBRICANT, Part No. 99887-84. Add 011 until it begins to overfl ow through t he oil level hole with the vehicle In an upright posit ion. Allow excess oi l to flow from the 011level hole until It ceases to run.
This is the correct level. Insert and tighten the oil level screw and all filler plug. 8.
Instal l the clutch adjusting nut (12). Adjust clutch as previously described under ADJUSTMENT, then install the locking plate (13) and spring (14).
9.
10.
Install access plug in cover. Install gear shift lever, tightening pinch bolt to 90-110 in-Ibs torque. Install left footrest assembly, tightening mounting nut to 24-36 ft-Ibs torque. Connect the battery negative terminal to the battery.
Installation (Figure 6·29) 1.
Install the engine sprocket, clutch shell and front chain as a unit. With the clutch shell installed on the clutch gear, install space (23) and new retainIng ring (24).
2.
Install the guide and adjusting screw assembly in the pressure plate and secure with a new retaining ring (6).
3.
Install the engine spro cket nut and tighten it to 150-165 fI-lbs torque.
4.
Install a new gasket on the front chain cover, then assemble the cover to the chain case. Tighten Ihe cover mounting screws to 80-11 0 in-Ibs torque. Be sure the correct length screws are installed in the proper holes.
5.
Install the gearshaft lever, tightening the pinch boll to 90-110 In·lbs torque, then install the left footrest, tightening the nut to 24-36 ft-Ibs torque.
6.
Install the clutch adjusting screw nut and adjust the clutch as described in CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT. Instalilockplate and spring, and install the access plug.
7.
Readjust front chain tension as described under FRONT CHAIN in this section.
B.
With motorcycle standing straight up, remove plug and oil level screw. Add 24 oz. of Harley-Davidson FRONT CHAIN CASE LUBRICANT, Part No. 99887-84 until it begins to overflow through oil level hole. Allow excess oil to flow from hole until il ceases to run. This is correct oil level. Replace the access plug and oil level screw.
9.
Reconnect battery cables, positive cable first.
Clutch REMOVAL WARNING To avoid accidental start·up of vehicle and possible personal Injury, disconnect the battery cables (negative cable first) before performing any of the following pro· cedures. 1.
Remove drain plug and drain oil from chain case.
2.
Remove gear shifter lever and left footrest assembly.
3.
Loosen front chain adjuster until chain is completely slack.
4.
USing ACCESS PLUG REMOVAL TOOL, Part No. HD·33186, remove the clutch adjusting access plug, then remove locking plate (4, Figure 6·29) and spring (3).
5.
Turn the clutch adjustment screw clockwise and remove the adjusting screw nut (5), then remove the front chain cover.
DISASSEMBLY
6.
Remove the engine sprocket nut.
7.
Remove the retaining ring (6) securing the guide and adjusting screw assembly (Items 7 through 10) in the pressure plate (26), then remove the guide and adjusting screw assembly.
To avoid accidental start·up of vehicle and possible per· sonal Injury, disconnect the battery cables (negative cable first) before performing any of the following pro· cedures.
8.
Remove retaining ring (24) and spacer (2~), then remove the clutch assembly, front chain and engine sprocket as an assembly.
NOTE
If necessary, use the slotted porti on of PULLER, Part No. HD·97292-61 and two bolts to loosen the eng i ne sprocket.
WARNING
Disassembly of the clutch assembly should only be accomplished with the clutch on the vehicle. 1.
Remove drain plug and drain oil from chain case.
2.
Remove gear shifter lever and assembly.
3.
Loosen front chain adjuster until chain is completely slack.
NOTE
Res/stance to clu tch shell removal is due to the magnetic attraction of th e alternator rotor magnets.
left
footrest
6-37
1. Access plug 2. 0·rlng 3. Spring 4. Locking plate 5. Nut 6. Retaining ring 7. Retaining ring 8. Guide 9. Be.rlng
10. Adjusting screw 11. Snap ring 12. Spring seat 13. Spring seat 14. Spring 15. Friction disc 16. Drive plate 17. Retaining ring 18. Spring plate
Figure 6·29. Clutch, Exploded View 6·38
19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26.
Late 1984 and 1985
Clutch shell Bearing Retaining ring Clutch hub Spacer Retaining ring Spring seat Pressure plate
4.
5.
Using ACCESS PLUG REMOVAL TOOL, Part No. HD-33186, remove the clutch adjusting access plug, then remove locking plate (4, Figure 6·29) and spring 13).
netic attraction of the alternator rotor magnets.
Turn the clutch adjustment screw clockwise and remove the adjusting screw nut (5), then remove the front chain cover.
INSPECTION AND REPAIR
9.
1.
Examine the steet driven plates (16) and (18) for warpage and excessive wear, grooving or scoring or running surface. Replace if necessary. See WEAR LIMITS.
2.
Pay particular attention to the friction drive plates (15). Plates that have badly worn, grooved, scored or burned friction surfaces should be replaced. If oil grooves are worn away, replace friction plates.
3.
Examine bearing (20) In clutch shell (19) for roughness or excessive play. If necessary to reo place bearing (20), remove retaining ring (21) and press bearing (20) from the shell.
4.
Examine bearing (9) in the lifter guide (8) for roughness or excessive play and replace if necessary.
5.
Inspect clutch shell (19) for badly worn splines, loose rivets, worn sprocket teeth or damaged ring gear teeth. It noticeably damaged, replacement clutch shell is recommended.
WARNING Do not attempt removal of snap ring (3, Figure 6-30) without using SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL, Part No. HD·34761. The snap ring is under high spring tension and can cause personal injury if tension on it is not relieved prior to removal. 5.
7.
Install SPR ING COMPRESSION TOOL, Part No. HD·34761 as shown in Figure 6-30 and secure with nut (1). Turn adjusting screw (2) counterclockwise until the tool relieves pressure on snap ring (3). Remove the snap ring, then turn adjusting screw clockwise and remove nut and the tool (4). See Figure 6·29. Remove the outer clutch spring seats (12) and (13), clutch spring (14) and inner clutch spring seat (25), pressure plate (26) and the lifter guide and adjusting screw assembly (7 thru 10). The entire clutch pack can now be removed.
Remove re taining ring (17) and separate the clutch hub (22) and shell (19).
ASSEMBLY (Figure 6·29) Assembly is essentially the reverse of disassembly. Be certain that all parts are clean before assembly.
2. Adjusting screw
1.
If removed, press bearing (20) in the clutch shell (19) and secure with a new retaining ring (21).
2.
If separated, install clutch hub (22) in shell bearing (20) and secure with new retaining ring (17).
3.
Install the engine sprocket, clutch shell and front chain as a unit. With the clutch shell installed on the clutch gear, install spacer (23) and new retain· Ing ring (24).
4.
Instal l the engine sprocket nut and Ughten it to 150·165 ft·lbs torque.
5.
Install a frlctton disc (15), a drive plate (16), then alternately instal l the remaining friction discs and dri ....e plates. The spring plate (18) is installed between the third and fourth friction discs from the clutch shell (19).
6.
If removed, assemble bearing (9) and adjusting screw (10) in guide (8) and secure with new retaining ring (7). Install adj usting screw assembly In the pressure plate (26) and secure with a new retaining ring (6).
7.
Position the pressure plate (26) In the clutch shell. Slip the Inner spring seat (25) over the pressure plate hub, concave side toward the pressure plate.
Figure 6·30. Clutch Spring Compression Tool (late 1984 and 1985) 8.
If it is necessary to remove the clutch shell, remove the engine sprocket nut (5, Figure 6-27). Use slotted po.rtion of PULLER, Part No. HD·97292-61 and two bolts to loosen the engine sprocket. Remove the clutch shell retaining ring (24, Figure 6-29) and spacer (23). Then pull the engine sprocket, clutch shell and front chain as a unit. NOTE
Resistance to clutch shell removal is due to the mag·
6·39
8.
9.
Position the clutch spring (14) on the hub, then install the U-shaped outer spring seat (13), concave side out, and the flat spring seat (12) in the pressure plate (26). Install SPRING COMPRESSION TOOL, Part No. HD-34781 on the adjusting screw assembly and secure with nut(s). Turn the adjusting screw counterclockwise until the clutch spring is fully com· pressed, then install a new snap ring (11). With the snap ring fully seated in the groove, remove the nut and compreSSion tool.
10.
Install a new gasket on the front chain cover, then assemble the cover to the chain case. Tighten the cover mounting screws to 80·110 in·lbs torque. Be sure the correct length screws are installed in the proper holes.
11.
Instatlthe gearshift lever, tightening the pinch bolt
to90-110 in·lbs torque, then install the left footrest, tightening the nut to 24-36 ft·lbs torque. 12.
Install the clutch adjusting screw nut and adjust the clutch as described in CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT. Install lock plate and spring, and instatlthe access plug.
13.
Readjust front chain tension as described under FRONT CHAIN in this section.
14.
With motorcycle standing straight up, remove plug and oil level screw. Add 24 oz. of Harley-Davidson FRONT CHAIN CASE LUBRICANT, Part No. 99887-84 until it begins to overflow through oil level hole. Allow excess oil to flow from hole until it ceases to run. This is correct oil level. Replace the access plug and oil level screw .
15.
Reconnect battery cables, positive cable first.
TRANSMISSION (LATE 1984 AND 1985) Access Cover Removal 1.
Unless transmission is damaged inside so it can· not be shifted from one gear to another, shift into high gear.
2.
Place a drain pan under the engine and drain the chaincase.
3.
Remove the chaincase cover, clutch, front chain and engine sprocket as described in CLUTCH REMOVAL, in this secUon.
4.
Remove the rear chain sprocket cover from the right side of the motorcycle. Refer to STRIPPING MOTORCYCLE FOR ENGINE REPAIR, Section 3.
5.
See Figure6-31. Remove the lockscrew (1) from the sprocket, then remove the mainshaft sprocket nut (2). Remove the rear chain and sprocket.
6.
See Figure 6-32. Remove the four screws (1) securing the alternator stator (2) to the stator mount (3). Swing the stator away from the access door and remove the stator spacer (4).
ON LATE 1985 MODELS: See Figure 6·33. Remove the four screws (1) securing the alternator stator (2) to the access door. Swing the stator away from the access door. NOTE
It is not necessary to completely remove the stator from the crankcase for access door removal.
1. Lock screw
2. Mainshaft sprocket nut
Figure 6·31. Malnshaft Sprocket -
6·40
Late 1984 and 1985
7.
Remove the three bolts (1) and bolt (4) securing Ihe access cover to the chalncase, Figure 6-34.
8.
See Figure 6-35. Place the stator on the clutch gear to gain access to the lower slot in the access cover. USing an alignment tOOl , SNAP-ON 1650 or MAC LF·12, pry alternately at the removal slots 10 draw access cover from the locating pins. NOTE
It may be necessary to heat cover around pins to ease cover removal.
1. 8011(3) 2. Access cover 3. Access cover 4. Spacer
1. Screws (4) 2. Stator Figure 6-32. Stator Removal -
Figure 6-34. Transmission Access Cover Hardware _ Late 1984 and 1985
Late 1984 and 1985
gear shifter cam follower (16) and springs (17) will remain on the access cover, or they may fall free. 2.
1. Tont fastener (4) 2. Stator
Late 1985
Remove the stator from the clutch gear, then remove the transmission as a unit, Figure 6路36.
Shifter Mechanism Removal and Disassembly (Figure 6路37) 1.
USing a snap ring pliers remove retaining ring (3) and washer (4). Free the cam (5), pawl carrier (6), pawl carrier support (7) and pawl carrier support shims (8) (If used).
3. Access cover
Figure 8路33. Stator Removal 9.
3. Stator 4. Bolt
Remove shifter mechanism from the access door by removing capscrew (1) and lockplate (2). The
Figure 8路35. Removing Transmlnlon Access Cover _ Late 1984 and 1985 3.
Remove the pawl carrier springs (9) from the pawl carrier support.
4. To disassemble the pawl assembly, remove the reo talnlng rings (13) to free pawls (10), spacers (12), and springs (11) from the pawl carrier (6).
...,
cleaning solvent. Blow parts dry with compressed air and Inspect to determine if any must be replaced. Replace all parts that are badly worn or damaged.
F~ure
6-36. Transmission Removed -
late 1984 and 1985
2.
Inspect the mains haft sprocket for badly worn or damaged sprocket teeth and splines.
3.
Check the mainshaft oil seal In the crankcase for damage. Replace seal.
4.
See Figure 6·37. Carefully examine gear shifter cam (5) for grooved or worn cam slots at various running gear pOSitions. Excessive wear at thrust points will make the transmission difficult to shift through gear range.
5.
Inspect gear shifter pawl carrier (6) for depressions or grooves worn in fingers that engage shifter lever arm shaft (21). A badly worn yoke is caused by rub· bing action of lever arm shaft ball, and will result in transmission jumping out of gear. Examine pawl carrier support for breakage or minute surface cracks. Loosely assemble shifter cam (5), pawl carrier (6), support (7), shims (8) (if used), and check bearing action for appreciable play. Parts that show extremely worn or pitted surfaces should be replaced.
6.
Examine pawl carrier springs (9) for breakage or damage caused by acids in oil. If pOSSible, com· pare old springs with new springs. New spring free length is approximately 2-21/32 in.
Mainshaft and Countershaft (Figure 6-38) 1.
Remove the mainshaft assembly from the clutch gear (10), then slide the mainshaft second gear (1) from the malnshaft (2).
2.
Remove the retaining ring (6) and washer (7), then slide the mainshaft third gear (8) from the main· shaft.
3.
Remove the end play thrust washer (3) from the malnshaft, then use a press to remove the main· shaft first gear (5) and bearing inner race (26) from the mainshaft If removal is needed. Support the first gear when pressing against the mains haft.
4.
Remove the countershaft assembly from the ac· cess cover. Slide the countershaft fourth gear (13), spacer (14) and countershaft second gear (15) from the countershaft (17), then slide thrust washers (19), countershaft first gear(18), thrust washers (11) and countershaft third gear (12) from the countershaft.
5.
Remove the retaining ring (21), then remove the clutch gear and bearing as an assembly from the access cover (9). Remove the retaining ring (28) and press clutch gear (10) from bearing (20), if bearing replacement is required.
6.
Press out or drift roller bearings (27), (24), (23), (22) and (4) only if replacement Is needed.
Cleaning, Inspection and Repair 1.
6·42
Thoroughly clean transmission compartment and all shifter, malnshalt, and counters haft parts with
CAUTION Do not use cadmium plated, 14-coll pawl ca"ier springs. Use only cadmium plated, 16·coil springs or black phosphatlzed springs, 14 or 16-coll, when reassembling pawl carrier support. 7.
Examine shifter pawls (10) for wear, grooves, cracks or breakage.
8.
Check for wear or damage to pawl (10) and carrier (6). Free length of new spring (11) is approximately 1-3/4 in. between hooks.
9.
Check shifter forks (14) tor bent condition or deep grooves worn In to fork fingers caused by ex· cesslve thrust action of gears. Also examine both shifter forks (14) and finger rollers (15) for breakage.
10.
Check shaft (20) for bent or damaged condition by Slipping shifter forks on shaft and noting if they have free movement on shaft.
11.
Inspect gear shifler lever arm shaft (21) for wear or bent condition. Temporarily install shaft in crankcase and check for appreciable play in bushings (22). If inspection indicates replacement of bronze bushings (22), it is first necessary to remove gearcase cover. Pry oil seal (23) from recess in shaft hole with screwdriver and drift bushings from right case and gearcase cover. After pressing in new bushings, install lever arm shaft (21). Shaft must work freely In bushings. Remove any high spots from bushings with a half-
1. Bolt 2. Lockplate 3. Retaining ring 4. Thrust washer 5. Gear shifter cam 6. Pawl carrier 7. Pawl carrier support 8. Shim (.010 thick) as required 9. Pawl carrier springs (2) 10. Pawl (2) 11. Pawl spring
12. Pawl spacer (2) 13. Retaining ring (2) 14. Gear shllter forks (2) (variable) 15. Finger rollers (2) 16. Cam follower 17. Cam follower spring 18. Washer 19. Bolt 20. Fork shaft 21. Lever arm shaft 22. Shifter shaft bushings
Figure 6·37. Shifting Mechanism inch reamer. To ensure against oil leakage, replace oil seal (23) when reassembling. 12.
13.
Inspect gears for badly battered, chipped or round· ed dogs and slots at all thrust points. This condi· tion will be evidenced by transmission jumping out of gear. Examine gear teeth for pitting, scoring, cracked, chipped condition or case hardening worn through. Inspect mainshaft, countershaft and all gears for pitting, grooving and excessive wear on bearing surfaces. Slip gears on shafts and check for wear and appreciable play. If not within service limits as given in transmission SPECIFICA· TIONS, replace worn parts. Inspect all roller bearings for wear, pitting, scoring and other damage. Press or drive damaged bear· ings from their respective housings. NOTE
All roller bearings are press fit in their bores. Do not remove roller bearings unless their replacement is necessary.
23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32.
Shifter shaft 011 seal Thrust washer Pin pawl lifter arm (2) Upper pawl lifter arm Lower pawl lifter arm Carrier spring retainer plug (2) Cam support pin (2) Shift shaft bushing Lever Shllt lever
Late 1984 and 1985
14.
See Figure 6·38. Position mainshaft (2) in FLYWHEEL TRUING DEVICE, Part No. HD-96650-80. Rotate shaft and, with a dial in· dicator, check shaft for bent condition. Shaft that is .003 in. or more out of true must be replaced. Check the counterShaft (17) in the same manner. If countershaft is 0.003 in. out of true, replace it.
15.
Examine all thrust washers and replace any that are badly worn or damaged.
16.
See Figure 6-37. Inspect the gear shifter cam follower (16) for wear. Also check the cam follower springs (17). Replace badly worn cam follower.
17.
Refer to transmission SPECIFICATIONS for in· spection criteria of parts not specifically covered in the inspection procedures.
Assembly Lubricate all parts with Harley·Davidson FRONT CHAIN CASE LUBRICANT, Part No. HD-99887·84. 1.
See Figure 6-39. If removed, install a new main·
6·43
1. Malnshaft second gear 2. Transmission malnshaft 3. Malnshaft thrust washer (variable thickness) . controls malnshaft end play 4. CountershaH bearing closed end 5. Malnshaft first gear 8. Malnshaft third gear retainer ring 7. Malnshaft third gear washer 8. Malnshalt third gear 9. Access cover 10. Clutch gear 11. Yariable thrust washer Controls clearance between gears
12. 13. 14. 15. 16.
Countershaft third gear Countershaft fourth gear Countershaft gear spacer Countershaft second gear Countershaft second gear thrust washer 17. Transmission counterahaft 18. Countershaft first gear 19. Countershaft IIrst gear washer (variable thickness) . Controls countershaH end play
Figure 6·38. Transmission -
20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 28. 27. 28.
Malnshaft ball bearing Mainshaft ball bearing snap ring Countershaft low gear bearing Clutch gear bearing Clutch gear bearing Mainshaft thrust washer Mainshaft roller bearing Countershaft bearing . open end Retaining ring
Late 1984 and Later against the right crankcase hall. This will properly locate the bearing .005· .015 in. below the surface of the crankcase.
shaft roller bearing, using MAINS HAFT BEARING INSTALLATION TOOL, Part No. HD·34810 and UNIVERSAL DRIVER HANDLE, Part No. HD·33416 as shown. Drive the bearing in until the tool seats
See Figure 6-41. Install a new mainshaft seal using a suitable Instaliation tool. Seal is installed flush to .010 in. below surface of right crankcase. 2.
See Figure 6·38. If removed, press a new clutch gear ball bearing (20) onto the clutch gear. Press only on the bearing inner race. Install a new retain· ing ring (28) on the clutch gear.
3.
Install a new retaining ring (21) in the access cover (9), then install the clutch gear and bearing assembly in the access cover. ON LATE 1985 MODELS: See Figure 6·40. Install the clutch gear and bearing assembly in the access cover until it contacts door shoulder. Install a new retaining ring (21) with beveled side facing transmission and flat side next to bearing.
4. Figure 6-39. Malnshaft Bearing Installation Late 1984 and 1985 6·44
If removed, press new roller bearings (27), (24), (23), (22), or (4) into their respective bores. Press only against the lettered side of the bearings.
Retalnlg rIng
/
Flat side toward bearing
1. 2. 3. 4.
Cover Screw Retaining ring Malnshalt fourth gear bearing assembly 5. Stator
Figure 6·40. Transmission Cover Assembly -
lainer plugs (28) in the pawl carrier support (7). If removed, install the upper and lower pawl Iilter arms (26) and (27) and secure them with pins (25).
NOTE
The countershaft bearing in the access cover must be pressed Into the cover .030 In. (1/32 In.) be/ow the cover Inner surface.
3.
Shifter Mechanism Assembly 1.
See Figure 6-37. Position pawls (10) with spacers (12) onlo pawl carrier (6) and secure with new reo talning rings (13). Install pawl spring (11).
2.
Install the pawl carrier springs (9) and spring re-
Figure 6-41. Mainshaft 011 Seal and Bearing RacaLata 1984 and 1985
late 1985
Assemble shifter cam (5) onto pawl carrier (6), retracting pawls one at a time to do so. Insert assembly Into support (7), with ear of pawl carrier (6) between springs (9). Secure with thrust washer (4) and a new retaining ring (3).
Operate cam (5) to be sure pawls (10) engage correctly with cam.
Countershaft and Mainshaft Assembly (Figure 6·38) 1.
Assemble thrust washer (16), second gear (15) and gear spacer washer (14) on countershaft (17). Assemble drive gear (13) on shaft. Make sure gear (15) lurns freely.
2
Inslall countershaft group into access cover (9). Also Install shifter fork shalt to access cover.
3.
See Figure 6-37. Assemble mainshalt second gear with shllter fork (14). Slip shifter fork over fork shalt (20) with finger roller stud toward access cover and fork fingers engaged in running slot of gear.
4.
Repeat operation with second fork (15) and countershaft third gear (12). Position finger roller stud away from access cover.
5.
Install finger rollers (15) on the shifter forks (14).
6.
Instatl the cam follower springs (17) on the access cover pins, then install the cam follower (16) makIng sure It is Inserted In the springs.
7.
Assemble pawl and cam assembly to access cover. Install shims (8) as removed; secure with bolt (1) and 10ckwaSher (2), tighten to 20-30 ft-Ibs torque. 6·45
in., - .0tO in. and - .020 in. Changing forks moves individual Sliding gears.
Bend lock tab against bolt (1). 8.
9.
10_
See Figure 6·38. If removed, install mainshaft first gear (5) on the mainshaft (2) seating it against the shaft shoulder, then press the mainshali bearing inner race (26) onto the mainshafl against the first gear (5). Press the race on with the lettered side out.
b. See Figure 6·37. Changing pawl carrier support shims (8, Figure 6-36). Adding or deleting shims will move both shift forks, the same distance in the same direction. c. See Figure 6·38. Changing gear shaft thrust washer (11) (.047 in., .056 i~., .066 in. and .OBO in. thick sizes are available). This can be used in conjunc· tion with shift forks and pawl shims to establish proper countershaft 3rd gear spacing.
Install the mainshafi third gear (8), third gear washer (7) and relaining ring (6) onto the mainshaft. Use MAINSHAFTTHIRD GEAR RETAINING RINGS SLEEVE, Part No. HO-96396-52 to instatithe retaining ring (6) into the groove in the mainshaft. This tool prevents the retaining ring from spreading out during installation. NEVER reuse retaining rings. Insert assembled mainshaft group in second gear (1) and clutch gear (10). Install the low gear variable washer (11) and position against shoulder on counters haft. Install low gear (18) onto countershaft.
NOTE If gear shaft thrust washer ( 11) is changed, countershaft
end play will have to be checked and may require reshlmming.
Gear Engagement 1.
After correct gear spacing has been achieved mechanical gear engagement must be checked.
Figure 6-42. Measuring Gear Spacing Late 1984 and 1985
Establishing Proper Gear Spacing 1_
See Figure 6-42. Using a feeler gauge, check clearance between clutch faces and gears, as shown. See SPECIFICATIONS for clearance tolerances. The gear spacing dimensions .028 -.058 in. for both mainshaft and countershaft gears, Indicate absolute maximum and minimum distances between gears. These dimensions include slider gear and shifter fork side play when the slider gears are loaded to 4 - 6 Ibs. in either direction. Check the gear spacing with the mainshaft third gear and countershaft first gear loaded with 4 - 6 Ibs. towards the access cover. Clearance between a Sliding gear and its mating gears must be as equal as possible on both sides.
2.
Adjust gear spacing by: a. Changing shifter fork size. Forks are available in +.005 in. +.010 in., +.020 in., standard, -.005
6·46
Figure 6-43. Checking Gear Mechanical Engagement Late 1984 and 1985 With complete transmission assembled to access door observe gear dog/pocket engagement. 2.
See Figure 6-43. Slowly rotate pawl carrier until pawl carrier contacts lifter arm. Use hand pressure on shifter cam to prevent cam follower from com· pleting shifts.
3.
Shift transmission into all four gears (upShift and downshift), as instructed above. Observe, In each shift, gear dog/pocket engagement. Engagement of gear dog into pocket must be at least 50% in every gear except low gear which is 25%. See Figure 6-44 and 6·45.
4.
Releasing hand pressure will allow cam follower to further rotate shifter cam. This motion combined with the action of gear back angles will draw gear dogs/pockets into complete engagement. See Figure 6·37. Filing or replacing lifter arms will
Countershaft spacing .028 to .058 in.
41h 1st
Space sliding gears as equally as possible on both sides Neutral position
Mainshaft spacing .028 to .058 In.
Figure 6·44. Gear Spacing -
produce changes engagements.
in
gear
dog/pocket
Establishing Mainshaft and Countershaft End Play (Figure 6-38) 1.
Temporarily select the thinnest variable countershaft low gear washer(s) (19) and mainshaft thrust washer (3) and install in their respective positions.
2.
Temporarily install access cover to crankcase with all transmission parts. Carefully align cover on dowel pins, and, with a rawhide mallet, gently tap cover into position. See Figure 6-34. Secure access cover with four bolts. Tighten the bolts to 14 -19 ft· rbs torque.
3.
1979 TO EARLY 1985: See Figure 6·32. Install alternator stator spacer ring. Position stator on access cover, aligning four counter bored holes in stator mount with four tap· ped holes on access door. Apply 2-3 drops of LOC· TITE 242 to threads of 4 new Allen socket·head screws. Secure access cover to crankcase with screws. Tighten screws to 30-35 in-Ibs torque. LATE 1985: Position stator on access door. Align the four holes in stator with four tapped holes on access door. Install tour new Torx fasteners securing stator to door. Tighten fasteners to 30 - 40 in·lbs.
Late 1984 and 1985
4.
USing a dial indicator, check end play of malnshaft gauging from sprocket side of shaft. With bearing (20) seated against retaining ring (21) in access cover, move shaft back and forth and measure end play.
5.
With access cover st ill in place, measure end play of counlershaft from access cover side using a dial indicator. Bend a discarded spoke and wedge in countershaft end hole. Pull and puSh counters haft and at the same time, measure amount of end play. It end play of transmission mainshaft (2) is not within .003 minimum 10 .020 in. maximum or countershaft (17) is not within .004 to .015 in. limits, it is necessary to remove access cover and Install correct size variabfe thickness thrust washers (3) and (19) to obtain correct tit. Variable thickness mainshaft thrust washers (3) are available in six sizes. Refer to the following chart for correct thrust washer selection. MAINS HAFT END PLAY THRUST WASHERS
If end play is:
. 114 - .108 .107 - .102 . 101 - .097 .096 - .092 .091 .. 086 .085· .079
in . in. in . in. in. in.
Use thrust washer thickness .099 - .Og4 in . .093 - .088 in . .087· .082 in . .082· .077 in . .081 - .070 in . .070· .065 in .
Thrust washer Part No. 35380-84 35381·84 35382-84 35383·84 35384·84 35385·84
Countershaft thrust washers (19) are available In twelve thicknesses from .020 in. to .075 in. 6·47
25% Engagement
50% Engagement
Figure
s..S. Gear Eng",ement
Installation 1.
With malnshaft and counters haft end play established, check the ge8f shifter lever arm for proper engagement with the gear shifter pawl yoke with the access cover in place. Make sure of engagement by lightly rOlatlng the lever arm shaft , Resistance to movement Indicates proper engage· ment.
-
6.
late 1984 and 1985 Install the rear chain. See REAR CHAIN REMOVAL ANO INSTALLATION. CAUTION
Make sure tha' rear chain spring clip open end trails the direction of chsln travel.
7. Fill transmiSSion compartment with oil as de· scribed In this section, under LUBRICATION.
2.
If removed for end play adjustment, install access COlier bolts and lighten them to 14·19 ft·lbs lorque.
3. Apply 2·3 drops of LOCTITE 242 to threads of" new Allen socket·head screws, Secure access cover 10 crankcase screws. Tighten screws 10 30-35 in·lbs torque.
4. Install the clutch as described under CLUTCH IN· STALLATION In this section.
5. Install the drive sprocket, on the malnshaft and secure with the sprocket nul. Tighten the nut to 35-65 ft·lbs torque, then Install the locking screw and tighten II to SO-60 In·lbs torque. The locking screw must be installed to the clockwise side of the sprocket nut flat. Additional lightening of the sprocket nul may be needed to move any nut cor· ner past one of the three locking screw holes. Max· Imum allowable torque on the sprocket nut is 90 ft· Jbs.
S.4.
LUBRICATION With motorcycle standing straight up, remove 011 IlIIer plug using PLUG REMOVAL TOOL, Part No. HD·33 t86, and 011 level screw. The oilliller plug Is located near the top of the chaincase cover and the 011 level screw is located near the bouom of the chaincase cover. Reflll the transmission wUh approximately 24 oz. of Harley·Oavidson FRONT CHAIN CASE LUBRI· CANT, Part No. HO·99887-84. Add 011 until it begins to overflOW through 011 level hote. Permit exceSS 011 to 1I0w from 011 level hote until It ceases to run. This is the correct oil level. Reinsert and tighten oil level screw and 011 filler plug. Drain transmission and reWI to correct level with fresh, clean 011 once each year or every 5000 miles, whichever comes first.
SUBJECT
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19.
PAGE NO.
Specifications. . .. . .......... 7·1 Ignition System 1979..... ........ . . ..... 7·3 Ignition System 1980 ·1982 .............. . ........... • ............ ... 7·9 IgnitionSystem1983·1985............ . .... . 7·15 Ignition - Light Switch ..... 7·21 Spark Plugs ....................•................... 7·23 Ignition Coil...... . .. .... ..... ... ... ... . . ... .. 7·25 Generator(1979· Early 1984). . ... 7·27 Regulator (1979· Early 1984) .....................•................... 7·35 Charging System (Late 1984 and 1985) .. 7·39 ...... 7·45 Battery Lamps ...... ................ . ..... . .... • . ......... 7·47 Horn ............................ . . ..... 7·49 Specilications{XR·1000j.. . ..... 7·51 Ignition System (XR·1000) .... . .. ..................... .. .......... ... 7·53 Ignition·Light Switch (XR·l000) ...... 7·59 Horn (XR·1000) .. ...... ... ........... • ...... .....•. . ..... 7·59 Spark Plugs (XR·1000) . . ............ . .. .7·59 Wiring Diagrams
ELECTRICAL
I
SPECIFICATIONS IGNITION TIMING
18-28 ft -Ibs
Tightening torque.
Ignition timer air gap (1979 only) . 0.004-0.006 in. 1980-1982 spark occurs at Fully advanced. 40 ± 2.5 BTDC Fully retarded. . ......... Approximately 8 0 BlOC 1983-1985 spark occurs at fast idle. 40° BTDC Fully retarded .............. . .• . . 10° BTDC 0
NOTE
0
SPARK PLUGS Standa rd.
. . . . . . . (1979) Harley·Davidson No.4 (1980·1981) Harley·Davidson No. 4·5 Resistor type . (1980 and later) Harley·Davidson No. 4R5 Size. 14mm Gap- NO. 4. .060 in. No. 4-5, 4R5 . 0.038-0.043 in.
Plug nos. 4-5 and 4R5 can be used in place of the NO.4 plug providing they are gapped at .038-.043 in.
GENERAL Battery Generator -
12 v. 19 amp. Two brush shunt, external regulator control
1979·1981
10amp .
1982-early 1984. 13 amp. Regulator 1979-early 1984 solid state current and voltage control Horn . . ..... . .... .. . . .' ....... Electric, vibrating type Armature end play (1982·early 1984) .004·.010 in.
BULB CHART The chart below gives the light bulb locations and requirements.
LAMP DESCRIPTION (ALL LAMPS 12 V.)
NUMBER OF BULBS REQUIRED
CANDLE POWER WATIAGE
HARLEY· DAVIDSON PART NUMBER
50 Watts 35 Watts
67717·65A (1979·1981) 67698·81A (1982·1985)
OR
Headlamp High Beam Low Beam
1
Tail and Stop Lamp Tail Lamp Stop Lamp
1
High Beam Indicator light Generat or Signal light
1 1
2 C.P. 4 C.P.
Oil Pressure Signal light
1
4 C.P.
Speedometer, Tachometer lights
1
2 C.P.
Turn Signal Lamps
4
32 C.P.
68165·64 3 C.P. 32 C.P. 71090-64 (1979·1982) 68597·83 (1983· early 1984) 68466·84 (late 1984 ·1985) 68536·75 (1979·1982) 68489-83 (1983-1985) 71090-64 68572·64A
7·1
IGNITION SYSTEM 1979 DESCRIPTION The ignition system is a breakerless inductive discharge ignition system. II has two circuits, the primary circuit and the secondary circuit. The primary circuit consists of the battery, switch, primary coil winding, ignition timer and associated wiring. The secondary circuit consists of the secondary coil, the spark plugs and associated wiring. See schematic diagram, Figure 7·1 . The ignition timer is located in the gearcase cover on the right hand side of the motorcycle. II has two functions. First, it opens and closes the low voltage circuit between the battery and Ignition coil causing the call to produce high voltage discharge 10 the spark plugs. Second, the ignition timer limes discharge for proper engine firing. The ignition timer includes a trigger rotor, sensor, elec· tronic control module and advance mechanism. A single ignition coil fires both spark plugs at the same time, but one spark occurs in the exhaust stroke of one cylinder and the other spark fires the combustible gases in the other cylinder to produce the power stroke.
The advance mechanism is an extension on the cam· shaft and operates at half crankshaft speed. The trigger rotor is advanced automatically as engine speed in· creases and retarded as speed decreases through the action of flyweights in the advance mechanism. This en· sures correct spark tlmlng to suit starting, low and high speed requirements.
OPERATION (Figure 7-1) The trigger rotor (1) has two lobes. The small lobe fires the front cylinder and the large lobe fires the rear cylinder. The sensor (2) consists of a number of turns of fine wire wound on a core and is mounted on the timer plate so that the lobes on the trigger rotor pass in close proximity. The air gap must be adjusted to specified limits. The electronic control module (3) contains all of the solid state components used in the ignition system. Within the control module Is an integrated circuit chip (4) which contains oscillator and demodulator circuits.
r-------------------4W~----------~
w 2
4
8 9
BE~~' 9
7
3
=
1. Trigger rotor 2. Sensor 3. Control module 4. Integrated circuit chip 5. Ignition switch 6. Battery 7. Transistor 8. Ignition coil 9. Spark plug 10. Main circuit breaker 11. Ignition circuit breaker 12. Engine stop switch
Figure 7·1 . Breakefless Inductive Discharge Ignition System Schematic Diagram -
1979
7·3
The control module is fully enclosed in a silicone material to protect it from vibration, dust, water or oil. The unit is a non-repairable item. If it fails, it must be replaced.
Front cylinder (narrow lobe)
Rear cylinder (wide lobe)
4. Remove the timer case cover and position ignition module to one side. Check the air gap between both trigger lobes and the sensor. Air gap must be between 0.004 and 0.006 in. If this gap cannot be held on both rotor lobes, timer mechanism shaft and/or trigger rotor have excessive runout and should be replaced or straightened. Check to make sure that control module ground black lead is securely fastened to timer plate and that wires are in good condition. Note whenever sensor air gap is adjusted, the ignition advanced timing should be checked and adjusted if necessary. See CHECKING ADVANCED TIMING WITH STROBE TIMING LIGHT. If spark is still not evident, continue with the following voltmeter checks.
Figure 7路2. Trigger Rotor Position for Ignition Timing When the ignition switch (5) and eng i ne stop switch (12) are on, current flows from the battery (6) to the control module (3). An oscillator section in the integrated circuit chip (4) sets up a signal in the sensor (2). This creates a field around the sensor. When a trigger rotor (1) lobe leading edge enters the sensor's field, it reduces the strength of the oscillating signal. The weakened sensor signal is detected by demodulator circuit in the integrated circuit. The demodulator controls a transistor (7) which turns off the current in the ignition coil (8) primary circuit. This causes a high voltage to be induced in the secondary of the coil which in turn causes a spark at the spark plug gap . The time of spark plug firing occurs when the leading edge of each lobe aligns with the center of the sensor as shown in Figure 7-2.
TROUBLESHOOTING Refer to Figure 7-4 and to the appropriate vehicle wiring diagram . When the engine will not start or when hard starting or missing indicates a faulty ignition system, proceed as follows: 1. Disengage spark plug cables. Check condition of plugs and cables. Clean or replace as necessary. 2. Insert an extension adapter into spark plug nipple and establish a 3116 in. gap between adapter and cylinder head. Turn on ignition and engine stop switches. Crank engine. Check to see if a spark is obtained across the gap. If a spark is obtained, the problem is not the electronic system or coil. Check carburetion, choke, spark plugs, and advance mechanism. 3. If no spark is obtained, check battery voltage and battery connection. Turn on ignition and engine stop switches and with a voltmeter across the battery and current flowing, voltage should be 11.5 or above. If voltage is low, battery needs charging.
7路4
5. Position trigger rotor so that the center of the sensor is between two lobes . Connect voltmeter between ignition positive coil terminal (white wires) and engine ground. With ignition and engine stop switches on, the voltmeter reading should equal battery voltage within 0.5 volt. If not, trouble lies in circuit between battery and ignition coil. Check the connections at or in circuit breakers and ignition switches. 6. Disconnect blue wire from coil negative terminal. Connect voltmeter between coil negative terminal and ground. With ignition and engine stop switches on, the voltmeter reading should equal battery voltage. It not, ignition coil primary is defective. Replace coil. Retest for spark after corrections are made. 7. Reconnect blue wire to coil negative terminal. Con路 nect voltmeter between coil negative terminal and ground . Reading should be 1 to 2 volts. Place the blade of a screwdriver against the face of the sensor. If the voltmeter reading switches up to 11.5 to 13 volts, proceed to step 8. If the voltmeter does not switch up and down or does not read 1 to 2 volts, the ignition module is faulty and must be replaced . 8. Reestablish the 3/16 in gap between spark plug cable and ground. Check for a spark discharge each time the screwdriver blade is placed against the face of the sensor. If sparks are not observed , the coil secondary is faulty and the coil must be reo placed. CAUTION Coil wires must be connected correctly! Both white wires must be connected to the same coil primary terminal or ignition control module will be permanently damaged.
ADJUSTING SENSOR AIR GAP (See Figure 7路3) Ignition timer sensor air gap should be checked every
2500 miles. Remove spark plugs to permit engine to turn easily and rotate flywheels so that the wide lobe on the trigger rotor (1) Is centered in the sensor (2). Check the gap between the rolor and sensor using a narrow 0.004 in. feeler gage. If gap Is not correcl, loosen screws (3) and move sensor as required. Repeal for narrow tobe setting so that gap for both lobes is between 0.004 and 0.006 In. Tighten screws (3) to 5 to 7 in·lbs torque.
CHECKING ADVANCE TIMING WITH STROBE TIMING LIGHT (Figure 7 -3) Ignition liming should be checked initially at 500 miles and thereafter every 2500 miles. Before checking timing, check sensor air gap as described above. Use a strobe flash liming light (timing gun) to view ad· vanced liming (7) on flywheel through accessory PLASTIC VIEW PLUG, Part No. HD·96295-65, screwed In· to timing inspection hole (9). Make sure view plug does not touch flywheels. Timing light leads should be con· nected to the front spark plug, ground and battery positive terminal. Start engine and set engine speed at 2000 rpm. light will flash each time spark occurs. Loosen timer plate screws (5) just enough so that plate (4) can be shifted using a screwdriver in nolch (6) as light aimed inlo inspection hole (8) stops timing mark (7) In center of hole. Timing will retard 30" automatically when engine Is at Idle speed or is stopped. 89~ ir'ln.
SETTING RETARDED TIMING WITH CIRCUIT TESTER (See Figure 7 -3) NOTE
This procedure wffl result In approximate timing and engine can be opera ted In an emergency for a short period of time. Advanced timing should be checked and set under running conditions as soon as possible using a strobe timing fight 8S described in preceding section. Whenever ignition components have been disassembl· ed, such as during engine disassembly and reassembly, or if a strobe timing light Is not available, approximate timing can be obtained by using the following pro· cedure. Remove screw plug from timing inspection hOle (9) in left side of crankcase. Then remove front push rod cover so that opening and closing of valve can be observed. Turn engine until front piston Is on compression stroke (just after front Intake valve closes), and contin ue turn · ing engine very slowly (less than 1/2 revolution) until front cylinder advanced timing mark (7) on flywheel is aligned In the Inspection hole as shown.
~
/"
~~ 9
7
~
/"
-'=-----"'-~.l\~ 8 7. Front cylinder advance 40 0 1. Rotor timing mark on flywheel 2. Sensor 3. Sensor screws (2) 8. Front cylinder retard timing mark on flywheel 4. Timer plate 9. Timing Inspection hole 5. Plate screw (2) 10. Cover plate 6. Plate adjusting notch Figure 7·3. Ignition Timer and Flywheel Timing Marks
With timer rotor advanced (turned fully counterclock· wise) the leading edge of the narrow rotor lobe should be aligned with the center of the sensor body as shown In Figure 7·2. At this point the advanced front cylinder ignition spark occurs. A circuli tester, such as a 12·volt light bu lb (No. 57) can be used to determine the exact point of Ignilion firing as follows: Disconnect the blue wi re from the Ignition coil primary terminal and connect test light to this terminal and to end of removed blue wire.
7·5
Loosen timer plate screws (5, Figure , 7-3) so they are just snug and shift timer plate (4) so that center line of the sensor body is aligned with the leading edge of the narrow lobe on the timer rotor as shown in Figure 7-2. Turn timer rotor (1 , Figure 7·3) counterclockwise as far as it will go and hold in the fully advanced position. Shift timer plate (4) using a screwdriver in notch (6) so that light goes on or off. Tighten timer plate screws to 12 to 16 in·lbs torque. CAUTION When reinstalling timer cover, be careful not to pinch any wires.
1. Cover screw (2) 2. Ignition timer cover 3. Ignition module 4. Timer plate screw (2) 5. Washer (2) 6. Trigger rotor bolt 7. Trigger rotor 8. Advance assembly 9. Sensor 10. Screw 11. Timer plate 12. Screw and washer (2) 13. Flyweight spring (2) 14. Flyweight (2) 15. Advance assembly base 16. Flyweight roll pin (2) 17. Cam stop roll pin 18. Register roll pin 19. Camshaft 011 seal 20. Ignition coli 21. Spark plug cable 22. Ignition coil terminal
Route wires as shown in Figure 7·5.
REMOVING IGNITION TIMER COMPONENTS (Figure 7-4) Remove ignition timer cover screws (1), cover (2) and ignition module (3). Remove timer plate screws (4) and washers (5). Remove trigger rotor bolt (6) and pull trigger rotor (7) from advance assembly (8). Remove advance assembly from gearcase cover. To remove sensor (9) and screw (10) from timer plate (11), remove screws and washers (12). To disassemble advance mechanism , unhook spring
21
Figure 7·4. Ignition System Components -
7·6
1979
upper looped end grips groove in pin tigh.tly. See Figure 7·6. Check for looseness of rotor (7, Figure 7·4) on shaft (15) and wear on sides of flyweight ears which engage slots in rotor.
ROute wires between screw
Reassemble advance assembly and lubricate moving parts with Loctite ANTI·SEIZE. Check operation by mov· ing rotor in direction required to advance weights to their fully extended position. Then release the rotor and see if springs return to the fully retarded position. Cor· rect causes of faulty action by cleaning and lubricating the shaft and flyweights with ANTI·SEIZE and replace weak springs. Lubrication of the advance assembly should be performed at 5000 mile intervals.
ASSEMBLING IGNITION TIMER COMPONENTS (Figure 7-4) Assemble ignition timer parts in reverse order of disassembly with the following exceptions: Advance assembly must seat squarely and firmly on end of camshaft.
Screw
Install trigger rotor (7) in correct position so that it engages both flyweights and flat side is next to roll pin (17). Tighten trigger rotor bolt to 20 to 24 in·lbs. Route wires between screw and housing
Cable strap
Adjust sensor air gap and set retarded ignition timing as described in previous section. Check advanced igni· tion timing under running conditions as described in previous section. Tighten screw (4) and screw (1) to 12·20 in·lbs torque.
Figure 1·5. Ignition Timer Wire Routing CAUTION (13) from grooves in pivot and slip flyweights (14) with spring from pivot pins on advance base (15). Do not remove springs from flyweights unless they are to be replaced. Roll pins (16,17,18) are pressed in and can be replaced if necessary.
When installing module, make sure wires are not pinched. Loop tightly in pin groove
Spring
INSPECTION AND REPLACING PARTS (Figure 7-4) Inspect lip of seal (19) and replace it if worn or rough. Also replace the seal if there is any evidence of oil leakage into the timer compartment. Check flyweight springs (13), and if bent or stretched, replace them. When installing, be sure that bent end of each spring is hooked through bottom of hole, and that
Hook spring end through bottom of hole Figure 1-6. Advance Unit Flyweight Spring Assembly
7·7
IGNITION SYSTEM 1980·1982 module is mounted on the bottom of the battery car· rier/oil tank. On 1982 models the computer module is mounted to the frame. It is located under the side cover next to the battery. The computer has two functions. First, it computes the spark advance for proper ignition firing. Second, it opens and closes the low voltage circuits between the battery and ignition coil to produce high voltage discharge to the spark plugs.
DESCRIPTION The ignition system is a breakerless inductive discharge ignition system. It has two circuits, the primary circuit and the secondary circuit. The primary circuil consists of the battery, switch, primary coil winding, computerized ignition timer and associated wiring. The secondary circuit consists of the secondary coil, the spark plugs and associated wiring.
The ignition timer includes a rotor, sensor plate, and a computerized microprocessor control module. A single ignition coil fires both spark plugs at the same time, but one spark occurs with no effect in the exhaust stroke of one cylinder, while the other spark fires the combustible gasses in the other cylinder to produce the power stroke.
The computerized ignition system consists of two assemblies, the rotor and sensor plate and the computer microprocessor module. The rotor and sensor plate are located in the gearcase cover on the right side of the motorcycle. On 1980-1981 models the computer
___ '0
~------~Wr---------~
5
~+±-L:;/ /6
Y
2
~6
o
o
Figure 7·7. Ignition System Components -
1. Sensor plate 2. Computerized control module 3. Ignition switch 4. Battery 5. Ignition coil 6. Spark plug 7. Main circuit breaker 8. Ignition circuit breaker 9. Engine stop switch 10. Rotor
1980·1982
7·9
The rotor is bolted on to the camshaft and operates at one-half crankshaft speed_ The computer module automatically advances the spark as the engine speed increases, and retards as the speed decreases without the action of flyweights, or an advance mechanism. This ensures correct spark timing to suit starling, low and high speed requirements. As the rotor turns, slots in its external edge break the magnetic field of a Hall-effect device mounted on the sensor plate. The output of the Hall-effect device is a logic-type signal that corresponds to the timing information from the spinning rotor. This technique gives accurate timing information down to "0" speed. Basically, the system gives a spark near top dead center for starting, and at rpm's above this gives a spark advance between 8 G and 40 G _ The whole timing program can be shifted by mechanical rotation of the sensor plate. See CHECKING ADVANCE TIMING WITH STROBE TIMING and SEITING RETARDED TIMING.
The dwell time for the ignition coil is calculated in the microprocessor and is dependent upon engine speed. The programmed dwell Is an added feature to keep battery drain to a minimum and yet charges the coil adequately at all speeds. (The microprocessor control module has added protection against transient voltages, continuous reverse voltage protection, and damage due to jump starts.) The system will operate down to 5.7 volts DC. The control module Is fully enclosed In a polyurethane material to protect it from vibration, dust, water or oil. This unit is a non-repairable item. If it fails, it must be replaced.
(black lead) is securely fastened to the frame and that the ground wire from the battery to the frame is in good condition. If spark is still not evident, continue with the following voltmeter checks. NOTE
Voltmeter should have a resistance of 20,000 ohmlvolt or more in order to obtain correct readings. 5. Position rotor so that the center of the sensor is between the two slots. Connect voltmeter between ignition coil positive terminal (white wires) and engine ground. With ignilion and engine stop switches on, the voltmeter reading should equal battery voltage within 0.5 volts. If not, trouble lies in circuit between battery and ignition coil. Check the connections at or in circuit breakers and ignition switch. 6. Disconnect blue wire from coil negative terminal. Connect voltmeter between coil negative terminal and ground. With ignition and engine stop switches on, the voltmeter reading should equal battery voltage. If not, ignition coil primary is not functional. Replace coil. Retest for spark after corrections are made. 7. Disconnect sensor plate from ignition module at connector. Connect a voltmeter from pin #1 (red wire) to pin #2 (black wire) of the module connector (Figure 7-8). With the ign ition and engine stop switches on, the voltmeter should read 5.0 ± .5 valls. If not, the computer module is not functioning and must be replaced. NOTE Use IGNITION TEST ADAPTER Part No. HD·94465·81 or
TROUBLESHOOTING When the engine will not start, or when hard starting or missing indicates a faulty ignition system, proceed as follows: 1. Disconnect spark plug cables from spark plugs. Check condition of plugs and cables. Clean or replace as necessary. 2. Insert a 3/16 diameter (No. 10) screw into spark plug cable nipple and establish a 3/16 in. gap between screw and cylinder head. Turn on ignition and engine stop switches. Crank engine. Check to see if a spark is obtained across the gap. If a spark is obtained, the problem is not in the electronic system or COil. Check carburet ion, choke and spark plugs. 3. If no spark is obtained, check battery voltage and battery connection condition. Turn on ignition and engine stop switches to crank engine with voltmeter across the battery. Voltage should be 11.5 or above. If voltage is low, battery neeeds charging. 4. Check to make sure that ignition module ground 7-10
fabricate a jumper cable (Figure 7-8) to test module and sensor. CAUTION
When using Jumper cable extreme care must be used not to touch exposed wire terminals, Figure 7-8, to each other or ground which could result In damage to ignition module. 8. Reconnect sensor plate using IGNITION TEST ADAPTER, Part No. HD-94465-81 (Figure 7-8). Recheck voltage from pin #1 to pin #2. Connect the voltmeter from pin #3 to #2 to check sensor output. This output should be 5.0 ± .5 volts when the slot is not present at the sensor and should be 0 to 1 volt when the slot is at the sensor. A screwdriver blade can be used to check the sensor output. If these voltages are not present, the sensor plate must be replaced. CAUTION
Coli wires must be connected correctly. Both white wires must be connected to the same coil primary terminal or ignition control module will be permanently damaged.
TIMING ADVANCE Range. . ....... 8°BTDC Start. Fast Idle. .20° BTDC ... 40° BTDC 2000 rpm and Up .
Green (3)
Red (1)
I
JiC d J--(f
Black (2)
f~
LJjj
Vollmele'
SETTING RETARDED TIMING (Figure 7-9) CAUTION
Ignition Module Check
Red (1)
\
.........- Black (2)
Green (3)
Voltmeter
This procedure will result In approximate timing and engine can be operated in an emergency for a short period of time. Advanced timing should be checked and set under running conditions as soon as possible using a strobe timing light as described in preceding section. Whenever ignition components have been disassembled, such as during engine disassembly and reassembly, or if a strobe timing light is not available, approximate timing can be obtained by using the fOllowing procedure: 1. Set sensor plate (8) so that sensor plate screws (6)
are centered in the slots. Snug down the screws (6). Sensor Output Check
Figure 7·8. Testing ignition System
CHECK ADVANCE TIMING WITH STROBE TIMING LIGHT Figure 7-9) Ignition timing should be checked every 2500 miles. Use an INDUCTIVE TIMING LIGHT, Part No. HD·33813 (liming gun) to view advanced liming of flywheel through TIMING MARK VIEW PLUG , Pari No. HD·96295·65, screwed into timing inspection hole. Make sure view plug does nol touch flywheels. Timing light leads should be connected to the front spark plug cable, ground and battery positive terminal. Start engine and sel engine speed at 2000 rpm. light will flash each time spark occurs. Loosen sensor plate screws just enough so that plate can be shifted using a screwdriver in notch as light aimed into inspection hole stops timing mark in center of hole. Timing will retard automatically when engine is at idle speed or is stopped. See table. The small dot (early 1980) or lazy 00 (late 1980 and later) mark indicates rear cylinder advanced timing.
2. Engine can now be started. 3. Adjust the advanced timing with timing light following procedure in the preceding section as soon as possible.
REMOVING IGNITION COMPONENTS (Figure 7-10) WARNING To avoid accidental start·up of vehicle and possible personal Injury, disconnect the battery cables, (negative cable first) before performing any of the following pro· cedures. 1. Using a 318 in. drill bit, drill out outer cover rivets (1) and remove outer cover (2). 2. Remove inner cover screws (3) and remove Inner cover (4) and gasket (5). 3. Remove sensor plate screws (6) and washers (7). 4. To remove sensor plate (8) from gearcase, discon· nect connector (12) and remove connector from sensor plate wires. Pull wires through gearcase hole one at a time.
7-11
I
2
2
I
~
~
~. 2
3
~ ,
Early 1980 Models before crankcase No. 780·108·001 1. Front cylinder top dead center (TOC) 2. Timing Inspection hole
3
7
,
I
z~ 2
I
4
Late 1980 and later Models after crankcase No. 780·10S'()()1 3. Front cylinder advance timing mark 4. Rear cylinder advance timing mark
Figure 7·9. Ignition Timing Mark 1980 And later
5. Remove rotor screw (9) and rotor (10). 6. Seal (11), jf not functioning, can be pried out from jgnitlon side 01 gearcase. Use care not to damage cam· shaft end while prying.
On 1982 models assemble ignition module to frame. Make sure that the black ground wire is secured. Install sidecover. 2. Connect ignition module wires to ignition coil as shown in the wiring diagrams.
7. Disconnect ignition module wires from coil. 3. JI seal (t 1) was removed, install new seal (11) in gear-
8. On 1980 and 1981 models, to remove ignition module (13) from the battery carrier, remove two mounting bolts, and the screw securing the ground wire. On 1982 models remove ignition module side cover located next to the battery. Remove two mounting bolts securing ignition module and the screw securing the ground wire. Remove ignition module from frame.
INSPECTION AND REPLACING PARTS Inspect lip of seal and replace It If worn or rough. Also replace the seal if there is any evidence of oil leakage into the timer compartment.
case, lip side to flywheel side of gearcase. CAUTION Seal (11) must be pressed Into gearcase until it is flush. A seal that is not all the way in may leak. 4. Apply Loctite LOCK 'N SEAL to rotor bolt (9). Install rotor (10) with rotor bolt (9). Torque bolt (9) to 75·80 in·lbs (6 ft·lbS).
CAUTION Use only the grade of Loctlte specified. 5. Install sensor plate (8) with sensor plate screws (6) and washers (7). Tighten screws (6) to 12·17 in-Ibs torque. NOTE
INSTALLING IGNITION COMPONENTS (Figure 7-10) 1. On 1980 and 1981 models assemble ignition module (13) to bottom of battery carrier. Make sure that the black ground wire is secured. 7-12
If sensor plate (8) was completely removed it may be
necessary to install new wire pins, sockets and body receptacle. 6. Set retarded ignition timing as described in previous section. Check advanced ignition timing under run· ning conditions as described In previous section.
1. Outer cover rivet (2) 2. Outer cover 3. Inner cover screw (2) 4. Inner cover 5. Gasket 6. Sensor plate screw (2) 7. Washer (2) 8. Sensor plate 9. Rotor screw and star washer 10. Rotor 11. Camshaft oil seal 12. Connector
13. Ignition module 14. Ignition coil 15. Spark plug cable (2) 16. Ignition coil terminal
5
Figure 7·10. Ignition Components - 1980·1982 7. Inslall gasket (5) and Inner covef (4) with screws (3). Tighten screws (3) to 12·20 In·lbs lorque.
1113
8. Alvet outer cover (2) to Inner cover (4) with rivets (1).
CAUTION Use only rivets Part No. 8699 to secure outer cover. (See Figure 7·11.) Timing cover rivets are specially designed so there Is no rivet end to fall off Into timing compart· ment as with regular rivets. Use of regular rivets could cause damage to Ignition components.
Incorrect
Correct
Figure 7·11. Special Timing Cover Rivet 7·13
IGNITION SYSTEM 1983·1985 DESCRIPTION
frame. It is located under the side cover next to the battery. The V.D. E.S. is located above the intake manifold. The computer has two functions. First, It computes the spark advance for proper Ignilion firing. Second, It opens and closes the low voltage circuits between the battery and ignition coli to produce high voltage discharge to the spark plugs.
The Ignition system Is a breakerless Inductive discharge Ignition system. It has two circuits, the primary circuit and the secondary circuit. The primary circuli consists of the battery, switch, primary coli winding, computerized ignition Ilmer and associated wiring. The secondary circulI consists of the secondary call, the spark plugs and associated wiring.
The vacuum operated electric switch (V.D.E.S.) senses intake manifold vacuum through an opening in the car· buretor body. The V.D.E.S. is connected to the car· buretor with a vacuum hose. The switch is open under acceleration and high engine load conditions (lOW vacuum) and closed under low engine load conditions (high vacuum). The computer modu le is prog rammed with two spark advance curves to meet varying engine
The computerized Ignition system consists of three assemblies, the rotor and sensor plate, the computerized microprocessor module, and the vacuum operated electric switch (V.O. E.S.), The rotor and sensor plate are located in the gearcase cover on the right side of the motorcycle. The computer module Is mounted to the
10
6
r - - - - - { W} - - - - - " '
+
2
o
o
1 . Sensor plate 2. Computerized control module 3. Ignition switch 4. Battery 5. Ignition call 6. Spar1< plug 7. Main circuit breaker 8. Ignition circuit breaker 9. Engine stop switch 10. Rotor 11 . Vacuum operated electric switch
Figure 7·12. Ignition System Components -
1983·1985 7·15
loads. The 'high vacuum curve selected for maximum spark advance under normal light load cruising conditions provides improved fuel economy and performance. The low vacuum curve (retarded spark) minimizes spark knock, while maintaining performance, under high load conditions (acceleration and highway driving). The computer module selects the proper curve when it receives an open or closed electrical signal from the V.O.E.S. This system ensures correct timing to suit starting, low and high speed requirements. The ignition timer includes a rotor, sensor plate, and a computerized microprocessor control module and a V.O.E.S. A single ignition coil fires both spark plugs at the same time, but one spark occurs with no effect in the exhaust stroke of one cylinder, while the other spark fires the combustible gasses in the other cylinder to produce the power stroke. The rotor is bolted on to the camshaft and operates at one-half crankshaft speed. As the rotor turns, slots in its external edge break the magnetic field of a Halleffect device mounted on the sensor plate. The output of the Hall-effect device is a logic-type signal that corresponds to the timing information from the spinning rotor. This technique gives accurate timing information down to " 0" speed. Basically, the system gives a spark near top dead center for starting, and at rpm's and loads above this gives a spark advance that varies between 10- and 55-. The whole timing program can . be shifted by mechanical rotation of the sensor plate. See CHECKING ADVANCE TIMING WITH STROBE TIMING and SETIING RETARD· ED TIMING. The computerized control module contains all of the solid state components used in the ignition system. The dwell time for the ignition coil is also calculated in the microprocessor and Is dependent upon engine speed. The programmed dwell is an added feature to keep bat· tery drain to a minimum and yet charges the coli at all speeds. (The microprocessor control module has added protection against transient voltages, continuous reverse voltage protection, and damage due to jump starts.) The system will operate down to 5.7 volts DC. The control module is fully enclosed in a polyurethane material to protect It from vibration, dust, water or oil. This unit is a non.repairable item. If it fails, it must be replaced.
TROUBLESHOOTING
screw and cylinder head. Turn on ignition and engine stop switches. Crank engine. Check to see if a spark is obtained across the gap. If a spark is obtained, the problem is not in the electronic system or coil. Check carburetion, choke and spark plugs. 3. If no spark is obtained, check battery voltage and battery connection condition. Turn on ignition and engine stop switches to crank engine with voltmeter across the battery. Voltage should be 11.5 or above. If voltage is low, battery neeeds charging. 4. Check to make sure that ignition module ground (black lead) is securely fastened to the frame and that the ground wire from the battery to the frame is in good condition. If spark is still not evident, con· tinue with the fallowing voltmeter checks. NOTE
Voltmeter should have a resistance of 20,000 ohmlvolt or more in order to obtain correct readings. 5. Position rotor so that the center 01 the sensor is be· tween the two slots. Connect voltmeter between ignition coil positive terminal (white wires) and engine ground. With igni · tion and engine stop switches on, the voltmeter reading should equal battery voltage within 0.5 volts. If not, trouble lies in circuit between battery and ignition coil. Check the connections at or in cir· cuit breakers and ignition switch. 6. Disconnect blue wire from coil negative terminal. Connect voltmeter between coil negative terminal and ground. With ignition and engine stop switches on, the voltmeter reading should equal battery voltage. If not, ignition coil primary is not functioning. Replace coil. Retest for spark after corrections are made. 7. Disconnect sensor plate from ignition module at connector. Connect a voltmeter from pin #1 (red wire) to pin #2 (black wire) of the module connector (Figure 7-8). With the ignition and engine stop switches on, the voltmeter should read 5.0 ± .5 volts. If not, the computer module is not functioning and must be replaced.
To perform module and sensor checks of early 1983 components fabricate a Jumper cable as shown. The parts needed are:
When the engine will not start, or when hard starting or missing indicates a faulty ignition system, proceed as follows: 1. Disconnect spark plug cables from spark plugs. Check condition of plugs and cables. Clean or replace as necessary. 2. Insert a 3116 diameter screw (No. 10) into spark plug cable nipple and establish a 3116 in. gap between 7·16
Pin connectors Socket connectors Socket housing Pin housing Wire ring terminals 18 gauge insulated wire (4 ft.) Electrical tape
PART NO.
QTY.
74539-83 72028-83 72051-83 74521-83 9857
3 3
, 3
Use IGNITION TEST ADAPTER Part No. HD-9446S-81 or fabricate a jumper cable as shown in Figure 7-8 to test late 1983 sensors and modules.
when the slot is not present at the sensor and should be 0 to 1 volt when the slot is at the sensor. A screwdriver blade can be used to check the sensor output. If these voltages are not present, the sensor plate must be replaced. CAUTION
Electrical tape Coil wires must be connected correctly. Both white wires must be connected to the same coil primary terminal or ignition control module will be permanently damaged.
\
Black
Pin housing
Socket housing
-
Wire ring terminals
Sensor
-
Module
CHECK ADVANCE TIMING WITH STROBE TIMING LIGHT (Figure 7·9) Ignition timing should be checked every 2500 miles.
Black (2) .............
____ Red (1)
".""'[iIE ..,.Ignition Module Check
Use an INDUCTIVE TIMING LIGHT, Part No. HD-33813 (timing gun) to view advanced timing of flywheel through TIMING MARK VIEW PLUG, Part No. HD·96295·65, screwed into timing inspection hole. Make sure view plug does not touch flywheels. Timing light leads should be connected to the front spark plug cable, ground and battery positive terminal. Make sure vacuum hose is properly installed at carburetor and at vacuum operated electric switch. Start engine and set engine speed at 1300 rpm. Light will flash each time spark occurs. Loosen sensor plate screws just enough so that plate can be shifted using a screwdriver in notch as light aimed into inspection hole stoos timing mark in center of hole. WARNING
Red (1)~
_ _ Black (2)
Green(3)~
r'- +
Voltmeter
When checking advance timing, always check V.O.E.S. operation. Failure to do so may result in running engine with too much spark advance, and may cause extreme engine knock and engine failure. The lazy
00
indicates rear cylinder advanced timing. TIMING ADVANCE
Sensor Output Check Figure 7·13_ Fabricating and Using Jumper Cables 1983-1985 Models
1000cc 4-SPEED Range ......... . Start .. Fast Idle. . ............. . 1800-2800 rpm and Up
. ... 10" BTDC . .40" BlDC
CAUTION When using jumper cable extreme care must be used not to touch exposed wire terminals (6, Figure 7-8) to each other or ground which could result in damage to ig· nitlon module. 8. Reconnect sensor plate using the fabricated jumper cable (Figure 7-8). Recheck voltage from pin #1 to pin #2. Connect the voltmeter from pin #3to #2 to check sensor output. This output should be 5.0 :t .5 volls
VACUUM OPERATED ELECTRIC SWITCH (V.O.E.S.) Checking Operation After engine has been timed with a strobe timing light, perform the following check: 7-17
With the engine idlin-g, remove vacuum hose from carburetor and momentarily plug carburetor fitting. Timing will retard and engine speed should decrease. Reinstall vacuum hose to carburetor. Timing mark should reap· pear and engine speed should increase to preset speed. If speed does not decrease and increase as described, check vacuum operated electric switch (V.O.E .S.) wire connection to computer module and ground wire.
The vacuum operated electric switch (V.O.E.S.) can also be checked using an ohmmeter and a Harley-Davidson VACUUM PUMP, Part No. HO-23738.
See Figure 7-14 . Remove the air cleaner. Disconnect the switch wire from the computer module connector under the fuel tank and remove the switch vacuum hose from the carburetor. Figure 7·15. Checking V.O.E.S. NOTE
Rear of fuel tank may have to be raised to disconnect switch lead connector from computer module connector.
Removal and Installation 1. Disconnect wire from vacuum operated electric switch (V.O.E.S .) to computer module. 2. Disconnect V.O.E.S. ground wire from engine. 3. Remove V.O.E .S. 4.lnslall new V.O.E.S. reversing the removal pro· cedure.
SETTING RETARDED TIMING (Figure 7-9) CAUTION This procedure will result In approximate timing and engine can be operated in an emergency for a short period of time. Advanced timing should be checked and set under running conditions as soon as possible using a strobe timing light as described in preceding section.
Figure 7·14. V.O.E.S. Wire Connector and Vacuum Hose
Whenever ignition components have been disassembled, such as during engine disassembly and reassembly, or if a strobe timing light is not available, approximate timing can be obtained by using the following procedure:
See Figure 7·15. Attach ohmmeter leads to switch wire and to ground. Attach vacuum pump hose to switch vacuum hose.
1. Set sensor plate (8) so that sensor plate screws (6) are centered in the slots . Snug down the screws (6). 2. Engine can now be started.
Ohmmeter should indicate switch closed with 3.5 to 4.5 in. of mercury vacuum applied. If more or less vacuum is required to close the switch, replace it using Part No. 26557-83. 7·18
3. Adjust the advanced timing with timing light following procedure in the preceding section as soon as possible.
IGNITION COMPONENT REMOVAL (Figure 7·16)
2. Remove inner cover screws (3l and remove inner cover (4) and gasket (5). 3. Remove sensor plate screws (6) and washers (7).
WARNING To avoid accidental start·up of vehicle and possible personal injury, disconnect the battery cables, (negative cable first) before performing any of the following procedures. 1. Using a 318 in. drill bit , drill Qut outer cover rivets (1) and remove outer cover (2).
1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12.
Outer cover rivet (2) 13. 14. Outer cover 15. Inner cover screw (2) 16. inner cover 17. Gasket 18. Sensor plate screw (2) Washer (2) Sensor plate Rotor screw and star washer Rotor Camshaft oil seal Connector
4. To remove sensor plate (8) from gearcase, disconnect connector (12) and remove connector from sensor plate wires. Pull wires through gearcase hole one at a time. 5. Remove rotor screw (9) and rotor (10). 6. Seal (11), if damaged, can be pried out from ignition
Ignition module Ignition coil Spark plug cable (2) Ignition coil terminal V.O.E.S. wire Vacuum operated electric switch
' - -14
5
Figure 7·16. Ignition Components -
1983·1985 7·19
side of gearcase. Use care not to damage camshaft end while prying. 7. Disconnect ignition module wires from coil, and V.O.E.S. 8. To remove ignition module (13), remove Ignition module side cover. Remove two mounting bolts, and the screw securing the ground wire.
INSPECTION Inspect lip of seal and replace it if worn or rough. Also replace the seal if there Is any evidence of oil leakage into the timer compartment.
IGNITION COMPONENT INSTALLATION (Figure 7·16) 1. Assemble ignition module (13) to frame. Make sure that the black ground wire is secured. 2. Connect ignition module wires to ignit ion coil and V.O.E.S as shown In the wiring diagrams. 3. Install ignition module side cover. 4. If seal (11)was removed, inslall new seal (11) in gear· case, lip side 10 flywheel side of gearcase. CAUTION Sea l (11) must be pressed Into gearcase until It is flu sh. A seal that i s not all the way in may leak.
7·20
5. Apply Loctite LOCK 'N SEAL to rotor bolt (9). Insta ll rolor (10) with rotor bolt (9). Torque bolt (9) to 75·80 in·lbs (6 ft.lbs). CAUTION Use only t he grade of Loctlte specified . 6. Install sensor plate (8) with sensor plale screws (6) and washers (7). Tighten screws to 12·20 In·lbs torq ue. NO TE
11 sensor pla te (8) was completely remo ved it may be necessary to install wire pins, sockets and receptacle body. 7. Set retarded ignition timing as described In previous section. Check advanced Ignition t iming under run· ning condit ions as described in previous section. 8. Install gasket (5) and inner cover (4) with screws (3). Tighten screws to 12·20 in·lbs torque. 9. Aivel outer cover (2) to inner cover (4) with rivets (1). CAUTION Use only rivets Part No. 8699 to secure outer cover. (See Figure 7·11 ,) Timing cover rivets are specially designed so there is no rivet end to fall off into timing compart· ment as with regular riVets. Use of regular rivets could cause damage to ignition components.
IGNITION -
LIGHT SWITCH
(Figure 7-17) The combination ignition - light switch is a three position switch. The vertical position is OFF. For U.S.A. operation, the nexllwo clockwise positions are ignllion and head light. Key will lock Ignition in OFF position only. Switch must be replaced as a unit.
Off I
Ignition
~~~; Figure 7·17. Ignition - Ught Switch
7·21
SPARK PLUGS GENERAL Spark plugs should be replaced every 5000 miles. Use only the replacement spark plugs listed in SPECIFICA· TIONS page 7·1. The 4R and 4R5 plugs have a resistor element to reduce radio interference originating in the motorcycle ignition system. Only resistor type plugs should be used with 1980 and later Ign ilion systems.
INSPECTING SPARK PLUGS (Figure 7-18) Examine plugs as soon as they have been remove d. The deposits on the plug base are an Ind ica tion of the plu g eff iciency and are a guide to the general condition of rings, valves, carburetor and ignition system.
A. A wet black and shiny deposit on plug base. electrodes and ceramic insulator tip indicate an all foul· ed plug. The condition may be caused by worn rings and pistons, loose valves, weak battery or fault y ignition. B. A dry fluffy or sooty black deposit Indicates a too rich carburetor air-fuel mixture or long periods of engine idling. C. An overheated plug can be idenUlled by a light brown, grassy deposit. This condition may be accompa nied by c racks In the insul ator or by eros io n of the elect rodes. This condit ion Is caused by too lean an air-fuel mixture, a hot running engine, valves not seating or improper Ignition timing. The glassy deposit on the spark plug Is a conductor when hot and may cause high speed misfiring. A plug wit h eroded electrodes, heavy deposits o r a cracked Insulator shoul d be replaced.
Figure 7·18. Type. of Plug Bas. Depo.lt.
soflen depOSits wi th penetrat ing all and clean out with a thread chaser. 2. Apply engine oil to plug threads and Install spark plug finger tight. Torque to 18-28 ft·lbs. If a torque wrench is not available, tighten finger light and then, using a spark plug wrenCh, tighten an additional 1/4 tu rn . 3. Check engine idle speed, and adjust if necessary.
D. A plug with a white, yellow or light tan to rusty brown powdery deposit indicates balanced combuslion. The depoSits may be cleaned off at regular intervals If desired.
CLEANING SPARK PLUGS SETTING SPARK GAP Use only a wire-type gauge. Bend the outs ide of the electrode so only a slight drag on the gauge Is felt when passing It between electrodes. Never make adj ustments by bending the center electrode. See SPECIFICATION Page 7·1 for correct gaps.
INSTALLING SPARK PLUGS 1. Before Installing spark plugs, check condition of thread$ In ~Iinder head and on plug. If necessary
NOTE
Spark plugs should be replaced at every tune-up. Should the plugs require cleaning bBtween tune-ups, proceed as fol/ows. 1. Degrease the firing end of t he plug with CLEAN ING SO LVENT. Dry the plug with compressed ai r. 2_ Use a thin file to file the electrodes flat before set· ting the spark plug gap. A plug with sharp edges on the electrodes requires twenty·five to forty percent less firing voltage than one with rounded edges.
7·23
IGNITION COIL grounded). Transfer terminal wires to new coil as shown in wiring diagram for that particular model.
DESCRIPTION The ignition coi l is a pulse type transformer that transforms or steps up low battery voltage to the high voltage necessary to j ump the electrode al the spark plug in the cylinder head. Internally the coil consists of primary and secondary windings with a laminated iron core and sealed In water-proof insu lating compound. The ignition call cannot be laken apart or repaired. If the ignition coil is defective, it must be replaced . CAUTION On 1980 and later models, use only Ignition coils marked ELECTRONIC ADVANCE. On 1979 and earlier models,
use the old style coils. Interchanging these coils could cause 8 failure In the electronic components.
TROUBLESHOOTING When eng ine will not start or when hard starting or missing indicates a fau lty Ignition system, follow the troubleshooting procedure listed under the respective ignition system sections. If condition persists, check primary and secondary resistance of ignition coil with an ohmmeter. Resistances should be within the follow· ing limits: 1979 Primary . Secondary 1980 and Later Primary . Secondary
...... . . •. .......... . .4.5t05.70hms ... 16,500 to 20,000 Ohms
CAUTION Connect Ignition coil wires as shown in wiring di agrams. Revers ing polarity to the ignition control module will permanently damage the control module. Attach new spark plug cables to coil and plugs. If igni· tion trouble is elim inated by the temporary installation of new coil, carefully inspect old coil and cables. The in· sulation on cables may be cracked or otherwise dam· aged allowing high tension current to short to metal pa rts . This is most noticeable in wet weather or when motorcycle has been washed .
REPLACING SPARK PLUG CABLE Resistor type high tension cables are used. Th is type has a carbon impregnated fabric core instead of sol id wire for radio noise suppression and improved reliabi li· ty of electronic components. For this reason, it is neces· sary that the exact replacement cable is used. Remove old cable from coil terminal and install new cable. Always be certain that cable boot or cap is securely tightened to the coil tower to prevent moisture and dirt from contacting the high tension lead. Replace boot or cap if damaged or loose fitting. CAUTION
. ............. , .... 3.3t03.70hms . . . ..... 16,500 to 19,500 Ohms
If an ohmmeter is not available, temporarily substitute a new ignition coil by attac hing it at any convenient point near old coil (coi l will function without bei ng securely
When dlsconnectlng ca ble connector from spark plug terminal, do not pull on the cable itself because the cable carbon core will be damaged. Always pull on the rubber boot as close as possible to the spark plug ter· mlnal.
7·25
GENERATOR (1979 . Early 1984) GENERAL The generator is a direct current, two pole, shunt wound, two brush unit, driven by the engine liming
Maximum Output (Figure 7·20)
gears.
1. Remove both "A" and "F" terminal wires.
The generator output is regulated by the vOltage regulator to meet the requirements of the motorcycle and to keep the battery fully charged.
2. Adjust voltmeter to read on a 50 volt DC scale.
3. Connect positive voltmeter lead to the "A" terminal and the negative lead to ground.
NOTE
4. Start motorcycle and run at 2000 rpm. The generator should be tested prIor to removal to evaluate performance and necessity of repair. See GENERATOR OUTPUT TEST following for specific test procedures.
5. MOMENTARILY connect a jumper lead from ground to the " F" terminal. Voltmeter should read 25·30 volts DC.
GENERATOR OUTPUT TEST
If correct voltage is read generator is in good condi· tion.
Residual Magnetism (Figure 7·19)
If zero or very little voltage Is read disassembly and repair will be required. See GENERATOR TEST to de· termlne source of problem.
1. Remove both "A" and "F" terminal wires.
'--
2. Adjust voltmeter to read on a 10 volt DC scale. 3. Connect positive voltmeter lead to the "A" terminal and the negative lead to the ground.
25·30 VDC
0
"'-
-
1
I
2·2VJ VDC
0
-
1
I
i
I'
,.
1":·Momentarlly"
i
I IA
-
,(.
T
Jum~ erWlre iiI,
Figure 7·20. Testing Maximum Output
r
CAUTION
II-
Figure 7·19. resllng for Residual Magnetism
4. Start motorcycle and run at 2000 rpm. Voltmeter should read a minimum of 2·2.5 volts DC. If correct voltage is read proceed to maximum out· put test. If Improper voltage is read polarize the generator and repeat test. See POLARIZING procedure.
If after polarizing the generator no voltage Is read disassembly and repair will be required. See GENERATOR TEST to determine source of problem.
DO NOT ground the generator field terminal for longer than 10 seconds when the engine Is running as this may damage the generator.
REMOVAL 1. Remove two hex screws securlng.generator to gear· case. 2. Disconnect and tag wires from generator "F" and "A" terminals. 3. Raise shaft end of generator, over idler gear and remove from left side of motorcycle Care must be taken to avoid damaging the generator slinger washer. 7·27
2. Remove gear shaft nut and washers .
DISASSEMBLY 1979-1981 (Figure 7-21)
3. Remove generator drive gear, use GEAR PULLER, Part No. HD-95715-19A or ALL PURPOSE CLAW PULLER, Part No. HD-95635-46 and WEDGE ATTACHMENT, Part No. HD-95637-47.
Remove generator from engine gearcase as described in GENERATOR REMOVAL.
4. Remove through bolts (15) and carefu l ly pull off commutator end cover (7). NOTE
1. Remove gasket (1).
2. Remove gear shaft nut (2) and washers (3 and 8), 3. Remove generator drive gear (4). Use GEAR PULLER, Part No. HD-95715-19A or ALL PURPOSE CLAW PULLER, Part No. HD¡95635¡46, and WEDGE ATTACHMENT, Part No. HO-95637-46. Slip drive end oil deflector (5) off armature shaft.
4. Remove brush cover strap (6). 5. Turn off commutator end cover nuts (7). Pull frame screws (9) out of frame . Tap commutator end cover (10) gently with small mallet and remove. 6. Remove nuts (11) and washer (12) 10 free positive brush cable and brush leads. 7. Remove brush holder mounting plate assembly (13). 8. Press armature (14) out of bearing (26) with press . 9. Remove terminal screw nuts (15), lockwashers (16), and insulating washers (17). Remove terminal screws (22) from inside generator frame and remove terminal insulator (18), terminal bolt clip (19), terminal screw bushings (20), bracket insu lator (21) and positive brush cable (23). 10. Tap drive end cover (28) off frame and remove bearing retainers (25). Use INTERNAL LOCK RING PLIERS, Part No. HD-96215-49.
Thrus t washers (11) are positioned between bearing (12) and commutator end cover. Retain all thrust washers for reassembly. 5. Lift body assembly (4) and brush holder mounting plate (9) from drive end cover (2). NOTE
Complete the following disassembly steps only if re o quired to replace a damaged or worn part. 6. Press seal (1) from drive end cover (2). 7. Pull bearings (12 and 14) from armature, using an ALL PURPOSE CLAW PU L LER, Part No . H D-95635-46. 8. Remove two pole shoe screws (5). Remove pole shoes and coils (3) from body (4).
GENERATOR TEST Field Coil Test NOTE
An ohmmeter should be used to perform the following tests: GROUNDED FIELD
11. Remove bearing (26) and tolerance ring (24). 1. Remove or insulate brushes from commutator. 12. Remove seal (27). NOTE
Do not remove pole shoe screws, pole shoes and field coils unless necessary to replace faulty parts. 13. Remove two pole shoe screws (30). Screws are turned extremely tight. Remove pole shoes (31) and field cal ls (32) from frame (33).
1982 and Later (Figure 7-22) Remove generator from engine gearcase as described in REMOVING GENERATOR. 1. Remove gasket. 7-28
2. Touch one probe to any part of generator frame and other probe to the "F" terminal. There should be no continuity (ooohms). If no continuity (00 ohms) was read continue by checking for SHORTED or OPEN FIELD, procedures following. If cont inuity was read continue with test. 3. Disconnect "A" and "F" terminals from frame and again check continuity by touchi ng probes to "F" wire terminal and frame. There should be no conti nuity (00) ohms. If there is no continuity Inspect insulators and replace as needed. If there was continuity field cOi l(s) is grounded and must be replaced .
1, Mounting g.lket 2, Ge.r Ihaft nut
3, Ge.r Ih.ft w.lherl 4. Drive ge.r 5. Drive end 011 dellector 6. Brulh cover Itrap 7, Commut.tor end cov.r nut (2) 8, Slinger w.lh.r 9. Frame screw (2) 10. Commutator end cov.r 11. Brulh cable nut (2) 12. Brulh c.ble w.sh.r (2) 13. Brush holder mounting pl.te ....mbly 14. Armature 15. Terminal Icrew nut (2) 16. Termlnallcrew lockwalher (2) 17. Inlulatlng w.lher (2)
18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30, 31. 32, 33. 34,
Termln.1 insul.tor Terminal bolt clip Terminal Icrew bUlhlng (2) Br.cket Insul.tor Terminal screw (2) Po.lllve brUlh c.ble Toler.nce ring Be.rlng retainer Arm.ture bearing Se.1 Drive end cover Generator mounting bolt (2) Pole Ihoe screw (2) Pole Ihoe (2) Field coli (2) Fr.m. Lockwalher
35. 36. 37. 38. 39.
40. 41. 42. 43. 44. 45. 46.
47.
Nut Brulh (2) Brush spring (2) Brush holder plate Icrew (2) Brulh holder plate Icrew washer (2) Brush holder plate screw washer (3) Bracket Speed nut Cover End cover bearing Screw Brulh cover screw, lockwasher and nut End locating pin (2)
Figure 7·21. Generator - 1979·1981
7·29
( I
1.
L~~ 1.011 ••• 1 2. Drive end cover
3. Field coil assy. 4. Body 5. Screw
6. Terminal Insulator 7. Commutator end cover
8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15.
Brush spring Brush holder ...y. Bru,h Thrust washer Ball bearing (rear) Armatur.... y. aall bearing (front) Through bolt
16. 17. 18. 19.
Spring washar Screw Inauillting tube Inaulatlng washer
20. Plain washer 21. Spring wa,he, 22. Nut 23. Locating pin
Figure 7·22. Generator - 1982 & later SHORTED OR OPEN FIELD 1. Remove or insulate brushes from commutator.
GROUNDED ARMATURE
1. Remove armature from generator frame. Work on a bench with a nonconductlve top.
2. Touch one probe to the "F" terminal and Ihe other to
the "A" terminal. A small resistance (5.0-6.5 ohm) should be read. If no resistance (0 ohms) is read coi ls are shorted and must be replaced. If there is no continuity (OJ ohms) there is an open circuit and coils must be replaced.
OPEN ARMATURE
1. Remove armature from generator frame. Work on a bench with a nonconductlve top.
Armature Test NOTE An ohmmeter should be used to perform the following tests.
7·30
2. Touch one probe to any commutator segment and the other to armature core. There should be no continuity ( OJ ohms). If there is continuity, the armature is grounded and must be replaced.
2. Check for continuity between all commutator segments. There should be continuity (0 ohms) at all test points.
No continuity between any two commutator segments Indicates an armature coil Is open and armature must be replaced. SHORTED ARMATURE 1. See Figure 7-21. Place armature on a growler. Hold a thin steel strip (hacksaw blade) against armature core. 2. Slowly rotate armature. A shorted armature will cause the steel strip to vibrate and be attracted to the core. A shorted armature must be replaced.
CLEANING, INSPECTION AND REPAIR 1. Clean all parts except gasket, armature, field colis and brushes In cleaning solvent and blow dry with compressed air. Wipe rest of parts clean with cloth dampened In white gas and blow dry with com· pressed air. 2. Examine all parts carefully for wear. Give close aitention to condition of insulators, armature wind· Ings, field coil wrapping and surfaces of pole shoes nearest armature. If armature had oily appearance before cleaning, replace oil seal. Replace any part of brush holder mounting assembly that is bent. 3. Check play in armature ball bearing. If any play can be detected replace the bearing. 4. Clean and Inspect brush holders, Brushes must move freely In holder.
COMMUTATOR REPAIR A generator that has been In extended service may lall to deliver enough current to keep the battery In a charged condition although Its field coil and armature windings are in serviceable condition. In such cases the commutator and/or brushes are usually at fault. II the commutator has been worn down until the mica separations between segments are no longer undercut or recessed, the commutator probably is grooved noticeably in path of brush travel and no slot between commutator segments exists, causing the brushes to ride high and make only Intermittent contact with commutator. The commutator may be turned down in a lathe and smoothed with crocus cloth until true and smooth. When turning armatures, grip shaft on bearing surfaces. CAUTION Never sand a commutator with emery cloth. Particles will embed themselves In the copper surface, holding the brushes off the commutator far enough to cause heavy arci ng and burning. Alter commutator has been turned down, the mica Insulation between segments must be recessed or undercut approximately .025 In. Undercutting is usually done with a special undercutting machine. If one is not available, satisfactory undercutting may be done with a piece at hacksaw blade. Carefully thin down blade width, If necessary, until offset saw teeth are the same width as slots In commutator. Slots must be squarebottomed for good results. See Figure 7-24.
5. Inspect brush springs. Springs must provide even and constant pressure on brushes. Replace as required.
ASSEMBLY
6. Measure longest side of brushes, if length Is 112 In. or less replace brushes as a set.
1979·1981 (Figure 7·21) 1. Assemble the brushes (36), brush springs (37) and other related parts to the brush holder mounting plate (13).
2222
2. Position pole shoes (31) In field colis (32) and insert In frame. Turn in pole shoe screws (30) until snug. Place frame in vise and use very large screwdriver to securely tighten screws. Use a wrench to turn screwdriver while bearing .down with considerable force to keep screwdriver from slipping out of slots. Shoes will align themselves In frame. 3. Place tolerance ring (24) in drive end plate (28). Push bearing (26) Into tolerance ring. Compress bearing retainers (25) with needle nose pliers and insert In grooves. 4. Press seal (27) Into cover (28) from inside, with lip toward beari ng. Figure 7·23. T•• tlng Arm.ture for Short
5. Insert armature (14) drive end shaft in beari ng (26) 7-31
and press In until shoulder seats on the bearing. Be sure to support bearing Inner race while pressing In shaft.
6. Slip "A" terminal field coli lead on positive terminal screw (22), followed by positive brush cable (23), a terminal screw bushing (20), bolt clip (19) and the ter· minallnsulator (18). Insert the assembly through "A" terminal frame hole from Inside. Assemble the In· sulatlng washer (17), lockwasher (16) and nut (15) over terminal screw.
7. Slip "F " terminal screw (22) Into "F" terminal field call lead, bracket insulator (21) and screw bushing (20). The assembly Is then slipped Into "F" terminal frame hole through the bolt clip and terminal In· sulator. An insulating washer (17), lockwasher (16) and nut (15) are assembled over terminal screw.
generator ends are not seated properly or pole shoes are not drawn up tightly. 11. Slip drive end 011 deflector (5), drive gear (4) and washers (8 and 3) over shaft and turn on nut (2) until gear is seated against 011 deflector. Install brush cover strap (6) with connection at bottom as posl· tloned on motorcycle. Position gasket (1) onto the generator and Install In reverse order of removal.
1982 · Early 1984 (Figure 7·22) 1. Assemble springs (8) and brushes (10) Into brush holder assembly (9). Attach field and "A" terminal
wire with corresponding brush lead to Insulated post, on brush holder assembly (9).
8. Slip frame assembly over armature, locating pin (47)
In hole In drive end plate. Bend loose end of positive brush cable out commutator end of generator. Push brushes back in brush holders to clear commutator and assemble brush holder mounting plate over commutator so pin (4n registers In small slot and brush cable passes through large slot almost direct· Iyopposlte.
9. Connect positive brush cable and positive brush lead to Insulated brush holder terminal with washer (12) and nut (1 1). Connect grounded (negallve) brush to Its terminal In same manner. 10. Install commutator end cover (10) over armature shaft end so notch in edge registers over pin (47) in
frame. Slip internal tockwashers over frame screws (9) and feed them through generator from drive end . Assemble nuts (7) to frame screws and tighten
securely. Turn armature shaft to see If if is bound or If armature core strikes pole shoes. Shaft should be reasonably difficult to turn, but there should be no tight spots. If armature core strikes pole shoes,
Starti ng groove in mica with 3 cornered file
2. Install field coli assembly and shoes, if applicable. Secure with Loctlte LOCK N'SEAL. 3. Carefully press seal (1) Into front cover (2).
4. Press bearings (12 and 14) onto armature (13), If ap· plicable. 5. Push armature assembly (13) through front cover (2), bearing (14) Is a light hand press fit in cover.
6. Align terminal Insulator (6) over terminal holes in body (4) and push terminals through. Inslall In· sulators and other hardware as shown . 7. Carefully slide body assembly (4) over armature,
align locating pin (23) In body with hole in front cover (2) and push into place.
8. Slide rear cover (7) over rear bearing (12) and brush holder assembly (9). Position slot in brush holder over locating pin (23).
Undercutti ng mica with piece of hacksa w blade
Mica ~ __ ' Segments ~ Mica 0
%
' .
Wrong way Mica must not be left wit h a thin edge next to segments ~
Right way Mica must be cut away clean between segments
Figure 7·24. R.c... lng Mic. Separator. 7·32
9. Push rear cover (7) into position, aligning hole in cover with locating pin (23). Secure with through bolts (15) and lockwashers (16).
of the battery. This restores the magnetism. Remove jumper. NOTE
10. Adjust armature end play to 0.004-0.010 in. It /s recommended to polarize the generator whenever
POLARIZING GENERATOR (Figure 7-25) After a generator has been repaired and assembled It must be repolarized to make sure that it has the correct polarity for charging in the right direction. A generator that is put into service with the wrong polarity will not charge the battery and may cause damage to the regulator. 1. With generator on bench, connect the positive ter¡ minal of a battery to the armature terminal of the generator. Then , momentarily "flash" the negative battery terminal to the generator field terminals. 2. Wlth generator on motorcycle and connected to regulator, connect one end of a jumper wire to the generator armature terminal. Momentarily touch the other end of the jumper wire to the positive terminal
wIres have been removed or when installing a new generator to ensure correct pOlarity.
----
n
+
.dt
12v Battery I
,A 1
:M!:J
arily"
Figure 7¡25. Polarizing Generator
7¡33
REGULATOR (1979 . Early 1984) GENERAL
CHECKING CHARGING SYSTEM
The solid state voltage regulator controls the output of the DC generator. II Incorporates the electronic equivalents of the cut-oul relay and the current relay of its electromechanical predecessor. It Is, however, Insensitive to dust, dirt or vibration but has a more sensitive electronic circuit which holds the output to closer tolerances than before possible.
When the charging system falls or Is not charging at a satisfactory rate, as is visually evidenced by a weak bal· tery, dim lights, or excessive battery water usage. It Is recommended that the following checks be made.
Figure 7·26 and 7-27 shows a simplified schematic diagram.
Preliminary Checks
General
Battery:
Check for weak or bad battery. See BATIEAY section. Battery must be fully charged for following electrical tests.
through the voltage divider consisting of Transistor R" Z, and A2. senses the generator output Yoltage. When the output voltage rises: 0, draws more current through AS causing the voltage at the base of 03 to drop. The generator field current IF which flows Into the collector of 03 Is thus reduced. This in turn causes the generator output voltage to drop. An equilibrium condi· tion is reached whereby the generator supplies Jusl enough current 10 the electrical load to maintain a con· stant pre·sel output voltage.
Wiring:
Check for corroded or loose connections in charging circuit. Particularly check for worn or pinched wires in the generator·le-regulator harness. Also check for corroded or loose ter· mlnals at generator. Remove rubber regulator connector plug and check for burned or cor· roded terminals. Regulator base must have a good, clean, tight connection for proper grounding.
When the output voltage drops through increased load or reduced rpm the reverse happens. 0, draws less cur· rent which causes 03 to draw more, which increases the output voltage.
Electrical Checks
Diode D, prevents current !low from the battery into the regu lator and generator, but permits charging current to pass from the generator to battery and load.
Q,.
Transitor 02 senses the voltage across A3 which is a measure of the generator current. When the current ex· ceeds a predetermined value 02 turns on. This turns on 0, which turns 011 03' The field current is reduced and so Is the output current.
If the preliminary Inspection shows components 10 be In good condition, make the following electrical checks: REGULATING VOLTAGE CHECK: (See Figure 7·28)
Connect an ammeter in series with the regulator output. Connect load rheostat (carbon pile) and \loltmeter Regulator
Dt R3
Load
R5
+
Q2' ~--~
. tl
Rl ZI Regulator side plug
Qt
R2
Flgure 7·26. Schematic Diagram - 1979·1981 7·35
Regulator Ign. switch
Indicator light
D1 R3
R5
+
02!)!---~
Load
R1 Z1
Regulator side plug
01 1
R2
0
-23-
Figure 7·27. Schematic Diagram -
1982 & Later
OUTPUT CHECK:
across battery. Check regulating voltage while running engine at 2000 rpm.
Run engine at 2000 rpm and adjust load rheostat (car· bon pile) to obtain a constant 12.5 volts . The output current should be 10 amperes minimum. 11 amperes maximum, for 1979·1981; 13 amperes minimum 14 amperes maximum, for 1982 and later.
Adjust load rheostat (or carbon pile) to 2·7 amperes output The voltage readings then should conform to the values given by the curves shown in Figure 7-29 at the temperature measured at the time of testing. For example, if the regulator temperature was + 75°F, the upper voltage (from upper curve) would be 15.0 volts and the lower voltage (from lower curve) would be 13.8 volts.
If no generator output current is obtained in the output check, polarize generator (see POLARIZING GENERATOR).
If voltage exceeds upper limit of curve, check for ground in field circuit of generator (see GENERATOR) or in regulator to generator field wire (green). If no ground is found, defect is probably in regulator - replace with known good unit.
Again check output at 2000 rpm per OUTPUT CHECK. If still no generator output current is obtained, momen· tarily ground generator "F" terminal with engine running at 2000 rpm. CAUTION
If voltage is below lower limit on curve, proceed with output check. If system passes output check, regulator is out-of-specification - replace with known gOOd unit
- 0
o o o o
Rheostat 15 ohm 250 watt
Do not ground "F" terminal for longer than 10 seconds - damage to generator or regulator can occur.
Voltmeter
Ammeter
0·20
0·20 R
Battery
Junction
Reconnect red ganerator wire from main circuit breaker to junction
Figure 7·28. Test Arrangement with Individual Components 7·36
Temperature Compensation Curve 16.0
Up"_
..
,..",r lImits
:l
15.0
> ~
14.0
•
13.0
~
aI
L.o loVerlJ
generator (see GENERATOR). If no output current is obtainable, problem could be in regulator or generator. Check regulator as follows: Disconnect rubber regulator connector and connect ohmmeter between battery and generator wires (orange and tan wires on regulator). Reverse ohmmeter connections. Ohmmeter should show continuity (low resistance) with the other connection. If regulator checks OK, check generator (see GEN· ERATOR). If regulator does not pass ohmmeter test, replace with a known good regulator and retest.
nUts
If charging system operates properly and generator warning light sti ll glows, check diode in wiring harness. Also check for missing or bad regulator ground.
12.0
·25
o
+25
+50
+7 S
+100
.f12S
Air temperature of
Figure 7·29. Regulating Voltage With '·F" terminal grounded, generator output should be 18 Amps min imum. If output is OK with " F" terminal grounded, problem is most likely in regulator - replace with known good unit and re·test. If output is low, check
REGULATOR CHECK: If the regulator appears to be the defective component, check it by replacing it with a unit that is known to be good and check agai n. Electrically disconnect the unit to be checked, then temporarily connect in the new unit. If the output is now okay, the original rectifier·regulator was defective and should be replaced. If the output is still unsatisfactory, the original unit was probably okay and the problem lies elsewhere.
7·37
CHARGING SYSTEM (Late 1984 and 1985) and accessories turned off, maximum reading should be one mill iamp (1m). A higher reading indicates a malfunctioning regulatorlrectifier which must be replaced.
GENERAL Alternator
NOTE
The alte rn ator consists of two main com ponents: the rot or which i s mounted on the rear of the clutch shel l, and the stator, which is bolted to the transmi ssi on ac-
cess cover.
Make sure accessories are not wired so they stay on at all times. Check for this by connecting ammeter as shown in Figure 7-31 . With ignition switch and aI/lights turned off, there should be no more than 1 milliamp (1m).
Regulator
o
The regulator is a series regulator with shunt control. The circuil combines the functions of rectifying and regulating .
AMP
+ 12V battery
TROUBLESHOOTING
To ground
Preliminary Checks When the charging system fails or does not charge at a satisfactory rale, it is recommended that th e following chec ks be made:
Battery: Check for a wea k or dead battery. See the BATTERY Section . Battery must be fully charged in order to perfo rm any electrical tests . Wiring: Check for corroded or loose connections in the charging circuit . The regulator base must have a clean, tight connection for proper grounding. Make sure star washers (if used) are between regu lator and mounting bracket. If battery runs down when motorcycle is not being used, the problem could be in the regulator / rectifier. With ignition switch off, connect an ammeter between the regulator wire and the battery positive terminal as shown in Figure 7-30. With ignition switch and all lights
Figure 7·31_ Total Output and Current Draw Test If battery runs dow n during use, the current draw of the motorcycle components and accessories may exceed output of the charging system. To check for this condition, connect an ammeter between the battery negative terminal and ground as shown in Figure 7-31. With ignition and al l continuously running lights and accessories turned on (headlamp on high beam), read the total current draw. Compare this reading to the output given in SPECIFICATIONS. The output should exceed current draw by 3.5 amps minimum . If not, there may be 100 many accessories for the charging system to handle.
Charging System Output Test Using Ammeter (Figure 7-31)_ 1.
CAUTION
o
Do not disconnect battery ground wire before connec· ting ammeter. Also, do not try to start engine with am· meter connected. In either case, damage to components could result.
AMP
+
12V battery
With engine running at 2000 rpm, connect ammeter between· ground and battery negative terminal , then disconnect battery ground wire. Leads should be reverse of previous draw test.
1 milliamp
2. To regulator Ignition "OFF"
Figure 7·30. lesting Regulator/Rectifier
With all continuous ly running lights and accessories turned on (headlamp on high beam), reading should be 3.5 amps or more. If reading is less than 3.5 amps, problem may be in charginq system. 7-39
- u
a
Voltmeter
Ammeter
0-20
0-20
Regulator rectifier module
a a
o
Battery
0+
R~ta~I------------~C::::::::::::::::::'--------) 15 ohm
To alternator
250 watt
Figure 7·32. Test Arrangement with Load Rheostat
Charging System Output Test Using Load Rheostat (Figure 7·32)
Stator Check 1.
To check for a grounded stator, turn off ignition and disconnect the regulator/rectifier from the stator at the plug below the crankcase on the left side.
2.
See Figure 7·34. Connecl an ohmmeter on the RX1 scale between ground and with stator pin or socket. There should be no conlinuity (infinite ohms) across either test point. Any other reading indicates a grounded slator which must be replac·
NOTE
Use this test procedure In place of above procedure If load rheostat is available. Connect an ammeter In series with the alternator out· put. Connect a load rheostat (carbon pile) and voltmeter across the battery. Check the regulating lIoltage while running the engine at 3600 rpm.
ed. 3.
Output Check Run the engine at 3600 rpm and adjuslthe load rheostat (carbon pile) to obtain a constant 13.0 volts. The alter· nator current output should be 19 amperes minimum to 23.0 amperes. See Figure 7·33.
Output Check (Figure 7·35)
•
..
"
1.
To test AC output, disconnect the regulalor/rec· tifier and connect an AC voltmeter across both stator pins or sockets. Run the engine at 3000 rpm. If the AC output is not at least 60 volts, the rotor must be replaced.
2.
If stator and rotor are good, charging problem can be assumed to be a faulty regulator/rectifier. Replace the regulator as described under REPLAC· ING TH E REGULATOR.
3.
Check the output again as described under CHARG ING SYSTEM OUTPUT TEST given earlier.
~
" t "" ~ ", 8 '
I "• I
Check the stator resistance with an ohmmeter set on the RX1 scale. The stator coil resistance should be 0.2 . 0.4 ohm (very low) when measured across the stator pins. If the resistance is higher or no needle movement (co) is detected the stator must be replaced.
• • , ,
Disassembly (Alternator) 1000
2000
300D
~
600D
eooo
WARNING
EngJM SpHcI RPM
Figure 7·33. Alternator Ouput Curve
7·40
Disconnect the battery cables (negative cable first) to avoid accidental start·up of vehicle and possible per· sonal Injury.
Grounded Stator Test
.~,
2.
Remove retaining ring, Figure 7·36 and separate the clutch assembly from the clutch shell. NOTE
A portion of the clutch shell functions as the alternator rotor, Resistance to clutch shell removal is due to the magnetic attraction of the rotor magnets.
""
FIgure 7·34. Testing for Grounded Stator AC Output Test
""
1. Clutch hub 2. Retaining ring 3. Rotor Figure 7·36. Removing Clutch Hub Retaining Ring 3.
Replace rotor and clutch shell as a unit.
4.
Reassemble clulch assembly and clutch shell and secure with new retaining ring.
5.
Inslall the clulch assembly, Irani chain and engine sprockel as a unit. Refer 10 CLUTCH INSTALLA· TION , Section 6.
REPLACING STATOR LATE 1984 TO EARLY 1985: 1.
Remove the four slotted screws securing the stator to the stator support.
2.
Disconnect the stator from the regulator at the connector beneath the crankcase. If stalor reo placement is needed, pry the grommet from the crankcase, pu i lihe connector through the opening and remove the stator.
Figure 7·35. Checking Alternator Output
GENERAL Remove the drain plug and drain the all from the chaincase, then remove the gear shift lever, left footrest assembly and the front chain cover as described under CLUTCH REMOVAL in Section 6.
LATE 1985: 1.
Using a T-27 Torx drive socket, remove the four Torx fasteners securing the stator to the access door. NOTE
REPLACING ROTOR
1.
Remove the clutch assembly, front chain and engine sprocket as a unit. Reier to CLUTCH REMOVAL, Section 6.
Tone screws contain a locking compound in pellet form on the threads. When the screw is started, the pellet breaks, releaSing the compound. As 8 result, the screws cannot be reused. 7-41
2.
Disconnect the stator from the regulator at the connector beneath the crankcase. If stator replace· ment is needed, pry the grommet from the crankcase, pull the connector through the opening and remove the stator.
remove them with emery cloth so that stator will seat properly on the stator mount.
3.
To install the replacement stator leads, thread a light flexible wire (18 gauge) between the stalor leads behind the connector.
4.
Insert the ends of the flexible wire through the hole in the crankcase and downward.
5.
Grasp the ends of the flexible wire and gently route the connector into position.
6.
Place a few drops of oil or CHAINCASE LUBRICANT on the grommet surface that contacts the hole in the crankcase and press grommet inward until it seats in the crankcase hole. Reconnect the stator/voltage regulator connector.
CLEANING, INSPECTION AND REPAIR 1.
Remove all foreign particles from the rotor magnets, then clean the rotor with a petroleum base solvent. CAUTION
Do not strike or drop alternator rotor, or magnet adhesive may be damaged, resulting in rotor failure. 2.
Clean the stator by wiping it with a clean cloth.
3.
Examine the stator leads for cracked or damaged insulation.
4.
The rotor and stator can be replaced individually if either is damaged or defective.
ASSEMBLY 1979· EARLY 1985 1.
See Figure 7-37. Place the slator mount in position on the access door. Align the four counter bored holes in the stator mount with the four tapped holes on the access door.
Figure 7·38. Tightening Stator Mount Screws
7.
See Figure 7-39. Position the stator on the stator mount and align the holes indicated in Figure 7-39 with the tapped holes in the stator mount. Apply 2-3 drops of Loctite 242 to the threads of the four slotted head screws, Part No. 2653, and tighten these screws to 30-35 in·lbs torque.
8.
Install clutch, engine sprocket, and front chain as described in CLUTCH INSTALLATION , Section 6.
9.
Install front chain cover, left footrest assembly, and gear shift lever as described in CLUTCH IN· STALLATION, Section 6_
Figure 7·37. Stator Mount in Position
2.
Apply 2·3 drops of Loctite 242 (blue) to the threads of the four Allen socket head screws, Part No. 2647. Insert the screws thru the recessed (counterbored) holes and tighten the screws to 30-35 in-Ibs torque. See Figure 7-38. CAUTION
Inspect the replacement stator mounting holes iden· tified In Figure 7·39 tor burrs. If burrs are present.
7·42
Figure 7-39. Stator Mounting Holes
1. Torx fastener 2. T·27 Torx driver Figure 7·38a. Stator Torx Fasteners
REPLACING REGULATOR
LATE 1985 1.
See Figure 7-38a. Position stator on access door. Align the four holes In stator with four tapped holes on the access door. Install 4 new Torx fasteners securing stator to door. Tighten fasteners to 30-40 In·lbs torque.
2. To Install the replacement stator leads, thread a light flexible wire (18 gauge) between the stator leads behind the connector. 3.
1.
Unplug the regulator from the alternator lead beneath the crankcase.
2.
Cut the cable straps securing the regulator wires to the left side frame member. Remove the seat and disconnect the regulator lead from the main circuit breaker.
3.
Remove the mounting bolts and replace the old regulator with a new one. Reinstall the mounting bolts.
4.
Route the wires along the inside of the bottom frame member and connect it to the circuit breaker. Install the seat , then secure the wires to the frame with cable straps.
5.
Plug the regulator Into the alternator lead beneath the crankcase.
Insert the ends of the flexible wire through the hole In the crankcase and downward .
4. Grasp the ends of the flexible wire and gently route the connector Into position. 5.
The regulator is a non-repairable item and must be replaced if it fails.
Place a few drops of all or CHAIN CASE LUBRI· CANT on the grommet surface that contacts the hole in the crankcase and press grommet Inward until It seats in the crankcase hole. Reconnect the statorlvoltage regulator connector.
6.
Install clutch, engine sprocket , and front chain as described in CLUTCH INSTALLATION, Section 6.
7.
Install front chain cover, left footrest assembly, and gear shift lever as described In CLUTCH iN· STALLATlON , Section 6.
7·43
BATTERY GENERAL
BATTERY CARE
The battery produces electrical energy to start the motorcycle, to operate accessories when the engine is not running and to provide additional current, when necessary, over the amount being generated. For a battery to remain in good condition, the currect draw must be balanced by a current Input. All Harley-Davidson batteries have lead plates and sulphuric acid electrolyte units of capacities suitable for load requirements under Intended use.
Prompt and correct battery care determines the life span of the unit. Therefore, for a longer useful life, the battery solution level must be checked at regular Intervals, see the REGULAR MAINTENANCE INTERVAL Chart in Section 1.
NOTE
A new battery is shipped dry and must be activated by filling with battery grade sulphuric electrolyle before pIecing In service. See the Instruction sheet, furnished with the battery, for activation procedure.
CAUTION Add only pure distilled or approved water. 00 not add sulphuric acid to a wet battery. Adding sulphuric acid could possible make the electrolyte solution too strong causing battery life to be shortened. Wllh a hydrometer or syringe, add water 10 each cell to maintain level between upper and lower limits shown on battery. 1979 XLHIXLS hole.
Apply tight coat of petroleum jelly or corrosion retar¡ dant material to terminals.
Fill to triangle or circle at base of filler
1979 XLCH, 1980 and Later XLHIXLS/XLX - Maintain level at upper level line on side of battery.
CAUTION See Figure 7-40. On 1982-1985 models, be certain positive cable ;s routed away from leading edge of all tank. This surface could cut the insulation and possibly cause a short circuit.
Be careful not to overfill. Overfilling will result in some of the electrolyte being forced out through the cap or vent hose, diluting or weakening the solution strength. An overflow of battery solution will cause cables to corrode and motorcycle parts near the battery to be damaged.
"115
WARNING Batteries contain sulfuric acid. Avoid contact with skin, eyes or clothing. ANTIDOTE External -
Flush with water.
Internal - Drink large quantities of milk or water followed by milk of magnesia, vegetable oil, or beaten eggs. Call doctor Immediately. Eyes - Flush with water and get Immediate medical attention.
"178
Route between frame backbone and oil tank
~~
Clean battery and terminals when necessary with a baking socia-water solution. When solullon stops bubbling, flush off battery with clean water.
TESTING BATTERY Use the following tests to determine the condition of a battery:
Specific Gravity Test To make specific gravity test on all cells, use a quality hydrometer with a temperature correction feature. Figure 7-40. Battery Cable Routing -
1982-1985
1. Specific gravity tests must be made with correct 7-45
electrolyte level in the battery; if electrolyte level is too low to test, add water, then fully charge battery and allow to stand at least 24 hOu rs before testing. 2. In maki ng the hydrometer readings, the floa t must be floating freely and eye must be level with the liquid level to obtain accurate readings. 3. Correct specific gravity readings can be measured only when the electrolyte temperature is80° F. if the electrolyte temperature is not 80° F., correct the reading as follows: a. For each 10" F. above 80· F., add four gravity points (0.004). b. For each 10° F. below 80· F., subtract four gravity points (0.004). Example: If the hyd rometer readi ng is 1.225 and the temperature of the elect rolyte is 90" F., the corrected read ing wou ld be 1.225 + 0.004, or 1.229. BATIERY CHARGE CONDITION State of Charge 100% 75% 50% 25%
Specific Gravity (A) 1.270 . 1.280 1.240 . 1.250 1.210 ·1.220 1.180·1.190
4. The battery shOuld be charged until the specific gravit}( remains the same for three successive hour· Iy readings. If the specific gravity between the highest and lowest cell varies 50 (0.50) points or more, the battery should be replaced. 5. Make sure exhaust tube is securely clamped to the battery exhaust nipple.
Load Testing
Hydrogen gas, formed when charging a battery, is ex· plosl ve. Avoid open flam e or electrical spark near bat· tery.
RECOMMENDED CHARGING RATES
PART NO .
VOLT
CAPACITY (AMP HOUR)
65991·82' 66004·65A 66010·82'
12 12 12
32 22
,.
BENCH CHARGE (AMP)
1.5 4.0 2.0
'low mai ntenance
If battery gets hot, over 110" F., (44" C.), discontinue charging and let battery cool. If battery gasses ex· cesslvely, lower the charging rate and continue charg· ing until required specific gravity reading is obtained. BENCH CHARG E at above rate for 16 hours or until 1.270·1.280 specific gravity is obtained. Charge rates shown in chart are maximum rates. Discontinue charging, or lower AMP rate whenever bat· tery heats to over 110· F. (44- C.) or gasses excessively. Allowing a battery to remain in a discharged condition will shOrten its life. II is important that a battery be kept well charged during below freezing weather.
SERVICING 1. Conventional battery: Check battery electrolyte level, check and clean connections every 500 miles.
Fully charge the battery before tes ting. Load battery to 3 times Ampere·hour rating, using a su itable tester. VOltage reading after 15 seconds should be 9.6 volts or more.
CHARGING BATTERY Battery should be charged BEFORE installation. A slow " bench" charge is recommended. WARNING Charg ing should be done in a well ventilated area . Ex· plosive hydrogen gas escapes from battery during charging. Avoid open flame or electrical spark near bat· tery at all times, especially during charging. To determine the amount or condition of a battery charge, check solution i n each cell with a battery hydrometer. When hydrometer reading is 1.200 or less, battery i s considered discharged and should be reo moved from motorcycle and charged at 1.5 amperes maximum continuous charge rate, using appropriate 12 volt charger. Always charge battery with all filler caps in place. See chart for recomm ended charging rates. 7·46
WARNING
2. Low mai ntenance battery: Check battery electrolyte level after first 500 miles. Chec k elect rolyte level, check and clean connect ions every 5,000 miles or once annuall y. 3. If vehicle is in storage or only occasionally used, remove battery from vehicle and charge until the correct specific gravity is obtained. This should be done every other month for vehicles in winter storage, at temperatures below SO - F (16"C), and those vehicles only occasionally used; once a month for vehicles stored in a warm area, above 6O -F (16-C).
RECLAIMING SULPHATED BATTERY If a battery has been allowed to stand in a disc harged condit ion for a period of time, the lead sulphate in the plates will crystallize and not take a charge at normal rates. Such batteries should be charged at half the specified continuous rate for twice the computed time. A longer charging lime at a slower rate wi ll many limes break down the crystalline structu re i nto act ive materials and restore the battery.
LAMPS HEADLAMP The head lamp is a sealed-beam type. When replacement Is required , use only the prescribed sealed-beam unit. If either filament burns out, or the lens breaks, the entire unit must be replaced. To remove sealed beam unit , remove screw from outer clamping ring. Pry unit from rubber mounting and pull connector block from unll prongs. Assembly Is the reverse order of disassembly. Be sure connector block contacts are clean to ensure a good electrical contact. After final assembly, readjust headlamp as described under ADJUSTING BEAM.
ADJUSTING BEAM To gel the greatest efficiency from the headlamp and to meet the requirements of the law, correctly adjust head lamp according to the fOllowing Instructions. Draw a horizontal Une on a wall or screen exactly the same height as the center of the headlamp to be checked
and adjusted . Then, posillon the motorcycle on a level surface with headlamp approximately 25 feel away from the test paltern. Have a rider sit on the motorcycle to sImulate actual running conditions. Motorcycle must be vertIcal with Iront wheel In straight ahead alignment and tires correctly Inflated . Aim the head lamp direclly at the screen and turn on the light switch. Set beam selector switch on the high beam positIon, and check beam lor height and direction. The top of the main beam of light should register even with, but no higher than the horizontal line 01 the test pattern. To aim beam, loosen the head lamp mounting hardware and position the lamp to correclly adjust the beam 01 light in relation to the horizontal line. At the same time, turn the head lamp right or left to direct the beam 01 light straight ahead. Tighten the mounting hardware after the lamp Is correctly adjusted .
BULBS See the bulb chart in electrical SPECIFICATIONS for proper bulbs.
7¡47
HORN Horn is shown in Figure 7-41. If the horn fails to blow or does not blow satisfactorily, check for loose, frayed or damaged wiring leading to horn terminals, discharged battery, etc. If these steps do not correct the trouble, turn in contact point adjusting screw, located back of horn, until horn best tone is obtained. If horn fails to operate after moving adjusting screw, entire horn must be replaced because it is permanently riveted together. Mounting parts are replaceable. '\. Horn
~~ Br~cket
Nut
Figure 7¡41 . Horn
7¡49
SPECI FICATIONS (XR-1000) Gap ............... . Tightening torque .
IGNITION TIMING Full advance (above 1600 rpm) Fully retarded . Idle Advance (600·1600 rpm) ...
0 .038.0.043 In. . . . . . . . . . . .. 18·28 ft·lbs
30 ° BTDC
2 ° AlOe .16 0 BlOC
SPARK PLUGS Type ...................... Harley·Davidson No. SA? (Champion RN7YGj 14mm
Size ..
GENERAL Battery '................ 12v.19amp. Generator - Two brush shunt, external regulator control ............. 13amp. Regulator ...... solid slate current and voltage control Horn. . . . ... Electric, vibrating type .004-.010 In. Armature end play. . .
BULB CHART The chart below gives the light bulb locations and requirements.
CANDLE LAMP DESCRIPTION
(ALL LAMPS 12 V.)
NUMBER
POWER
OF BULBS REQUIRED
OR WAnAGE
Headlamp High Beam Low Beam
1
Tall and Stop Lamp Tail Lamp Stop Lamp
1
High Beam Indicator Ught Generator Signal Light Oil Pressure Signal light Speedometer, Tachometer Lights
1 1 1 1
Turn Signal Lamps
4
50 Walts 35 Watts
HARLEY· DAVIDSON PART
NUMBER
67698-81A 68165-64
3 C.P. 32 C.P. 2 4 4 2
C.P. C.P. C.P. C.P.
32 C.P.
70021-83 68495-83 68489-83 71090-64 68572-64A
7·51
IGNITION SYSTEM (XR·1000) are located in the gearcase cover on the right side of the motorcycle. The Ignition module is mounted to the frame under the side cover next to the battery. The module has two functions. First, It computes the spark advance lor proper ignition firing. Second, It opens and closes the low vollage circuits between the battery and ignition coil to produce high voltage discharge to the spark plugs.
DESCRIPTION (Figure 7·42) The ignition system is a breaker less inductive discharge ignition system. It has two circuits, the primary circuit and the secondary circuit. The primary circuit consists of the battery, switch, primary call wind· ing, computerized ignition timer and associated wiring. The secondary circuit consists of the secondary coi l, the spark plugs and associated wiring.
A single Ignition coil fires both spark plugs at the same time, but one spark occurs with no effect In the exhaust stroke of one cylinder, while the other spark fires the combustible gasses in the other cylinder to produce the power stroke.
The computerized ignition system consists of two assembl ies, the rotor and sensor plate and the com· puterized ignition mOdule. The rotor and sensor plate
'0
~------~ w }---------~
5
w.r-;=Q..:t+:...::;/ / .
y
2
"'--.
o
=
D o
1. SensOf plate 2. Computerized Ignition module 3. Ignition switch 4. Battery 5. Ignition coli 6. Sparit plug 7. Main circuit breaker 8. Ignition circuit breaker 9. Engine stop switch 10. Rotor
Figure 7·42. Ignition System Components
7·53
The rotor is bolted to the camshaft and operates at one· half crankshaft speed. The ignition module automatical· Iy advances the spark as the engine speed Increases, and retards as the speed decreases without the action of flyweights, or an advance mechanism. This ensures correct spark timing to suit starting, low and high speed requirements. As the rotor turns, slots in its external edge break the magnetic field of a Hall·effect device mounted on the sensor plate. The output of the Hall·effect device is a logic·type signal that corresponds to the timing infor· matlon from the spinning rotor. This technique gives ac· curate timing information down to "0" speed. Basical ly, the system gives a spark near top dead center (2 " ATDC) for starting, and at rpm's and loads above this gives a spark advance between 16" and 30·. The whole timing program can be shifted by mechanical rotation of the sensor plate. See CHECKING ADVANCE TIMING WITH STROBE TIMING LIGHT and SETTING RETARDED TIMING . The computerized ignition module contains all of the solid state components used in the ignition system. The dwell time for the Ignition coil is also calculated in the module and is dependent upon engine speed. The pro· grammed dwell is an added feature to keep battery drain to a minimum and yet gives adequate spark dura· lion at all speeds. (The ignition module has added pro· tection against transient voltages, continuous reverse voltage protection, and damage due to jump starts.) The system will operate down to 5.7 volts DC. The module is fully enclosed in a polyurethane material to protect it from vibration, dust, water or oi l. This unit is a non·re· palrable item. II it falls, It must be replaced.
TROUBLESHOOTING When the engine wi ll not start, or when hard starting or missing indicates a faulty ignition system, proceed as follows:
(black) lead is securely fastened to the frame and that the ground wire from the battery to the frame is in good condition. If spark is still not evident, continue with the following voltmeter checks. NOTE
Voltmeter should have a resistance of 20,000 ohmNolt or more in order to obtain correct readings . 5.
Connect voltmeter between ignition coil positive terminal (white wires) and engine ground. With jg. nition and engine stop switches on, the voltmeter reading should equal battery voltage within 0.5 volts unless a rotor slot is in line with the sensor. Crank the engine slightly to change the rotor posi· tion and recheck reading. If battery voltage reading cannot be obtained, trouble lies In circuil between battery and Ignition coil. Check the connections at or in circuit breakers and ignition SWitch.
6.
Disconnect blue wire from coil negative terminal. Connect voltmeter between coli negative terminal and ground. With Ignition and engine stop switch· es on, the voltmeter reading should equal battery voltage. If not, ignition call primary is not function· ing. Replace call. Retest for spark after corrections are made.
7.
(See Figure 7·43). To perform module and sensor checks, fabricate a jumper cable as shown. The parts needed are:
Pin connectors Socket connectors Socket housing Pin housing Wire ring terminals 18 gauge insulated wire (4 ttl. Electrical tape 8.
1.
Disconnect spark plug cables from spark plugs. Check condition of plugs and cables. Clean or reo place as necessary.
2.
Insert a 3116 diameter No. 10 screw into spark plug cable nipple and establish a 3116 in. gap between screw and cylinder head. Turn on ignition and engine stop switches. Crank engine. Check to see if a spark Is obtained across the gap. If a spark is obtained, the problem is not in the electronic system or coil. Check carburet lon, choke and spark plugs.
3.
4.
7·54
If no spark is obtained, check battery voltage and battery connection condition. Turn on ignition and engine stop switches to crank engine with voltmeter across the battery. Voltage should be 11.5 or above. If voltage Is low, battery neeeds charging. Check to make sure that Ignition module ground
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
74539·83 72028·83 72051·83 74521·83 9857
QTY.
3
3 1
3
Disconnect sensor plate from ignitlon module at the connector. Insert fabricated jumper cable be· tween the connector plug and socket. Connect a voltmeter from pin #1 (red wire) to pin #2 (black wire) of the module connector (Figure 7·33). With the Ignition and engine stop switches on, the voltmeter should read 5.0 ± .5 volts. If not, the module is not functioning and must be replaced.
CAUTION When using the Jumper cable, extreme care must be used to avoid touching exposed wire terminals to each other or ground which could result In damage to Ignition module. 9.
Connect the voltmeter from pin 113 to 112 to check sensor output. This output should be 5.0 ± .5 volts when the slot Is not present at t he sensor and should be 0 to 1 volt when the slot Is at the sensor.
If these voltages are not present, the sensor plate must be replaced. CAUTION Coli wires must be connected correctly. Both white wires must be connected to the same coli primary ter· mlnal or the module will be permanently damaged.
soci ets
\
f'"
PI~'
i - Green
Red '
o r-- Black
-
Pin housing
. _~
Socket housing
Wire ring terminals
r
Electrical tape
CHECK ADVANCE TIMING WITH STROBE TIMING LIGHT (Figure 7·44) Ignition timing should be checked every 2500 miles. Use an INDUCTIVE TIM ING LIGHT, Part No. HD-33813 (timing gun) to view advanced ti mi ng of flywheel th rough TIMI NG MA RK VIEW PLU G, Pa rt No. HD·96295-65, screwed In to tim ing inspection hole. Make sure view pl ug does not touch flywheels. Timing lighl leads should be connected to the front spark plug cable, ground and battery positive terminal. Start engine and set engine speed at 2000 rpm. Light will flash each lime spark occurs. Loosen sensor plate screws jusl enough so Ihal plate can be shifted using a screwdriver in nolch as lighl aimed inlo inspecl ion hole SlOPS timing mark in center of hole. Timing marks are shown in Figure 7·44. Timing will reta rd au tomatically when engine is at idle speed or is stopped. See the timing advance table.
-
TIMING ADVANCE TABLE
Module
Sensor
=l
RANGE
2 0 ATDC -
Eng ine rpm 0-600 600·1600 1600 and up
Ig nit ion Timi ng 2° ATDe 16° BTDC 30° BTDC
30 ° BTDC
Slack (2) ~
............. Red(1 )
'-""'1m-.Green (3 ) Y -
rn
CAUTION This procedure will result In approximate timing and engine can be operated In an emergency lor a short period 01 time. Advanced timing should·be checked and set under running conditions as soon as possible using a strobe timing light as described In preceding section.
Ignition Module Check
Red 111",
SETTING RETARDED TIMING (Figure 7·45)
........- Black (2)
Vol1mele'
Sensor Output Check Figure 7·43. Fabricating and Using Jumper Cables
Whenever Ignition components have been dlsassem· bled, such as during engine disassembly and reassem· bly, or if a st robe timing light Is not available, approx· imate ti ming can be obtained by usi ng the followi ng pro· ced ure: 1.
Set sensor plate (8) so th.t sensor plate screws (6) are centered in the slots. Snug down the screws (6~
2.
Engine can now be started.
3.
Adj ust the advanced ti ming wit h t imi ng light fol· lowi ng procedure in the preceding section as soon as possi ble.
7·55
INSPECTION AND REPLACING PARTS Inspect lip of seal and replace It If worn or rough. Also replace the seal If there Is any evidence of oil leakage Into the timer compartment.
Front cylinder Full advance
Rear cylinder Full advance
Front cylinder
TOC
Figure 7·44. Ignition Timing Marits
REMOVING IGNITION COMPONENTS (Figure 7·45) WARNING To avoid accidental start·up of vehicle and possible per· , onal injury, disconnect the battery cablas, (negative cable first) before performing any of the following procedures. 1.
Using a 318 In. drill bit, drill through outer cover rivets (1) and remove outer cover (2).
INSTALLING IGNITION COMPONENTS (Figure 7·45) 1.
Assemble Ignition module to frame. Make sure that the black ground wire Is secured. Install sidecover.
2.
Connect ignilion module wires to Ignition call as shown in the wiring diagrams.
3.
If seal (1 1) was removed, install new seal (11) In gearcase, lip side to flywheel side of gearcase. CAUTION
Sea' (11) must be pressed Into gearcase until It Is flush. A seal that Is not all the way In may leak . 4.
Apply Loclile LOCK 'N SEAL to rotor bolt (9). In· stall rotor (10) with rotor boil (9). Torque bolt (9) to 75-80 In·lbs (6 ft·lbs).
2.
Remove inner cover screws (3) and remove Inner cover (4) and gasket (5).
3.
Remove sensor plate screws (6) and washers (7).
CAUTION
4.
To remove sensor plate (8) from gearcase, dlscon· nect connector (12) and remove connector from sensor plate wires. Pull wires through gearcase hole one at a time.
Use only the grade of locille specified. 5.
Install sensor plate (8) with sensor plate screws (6) and washers (7). NOTE
5.
Remove rotor screw (9) and rotor (10).
6.
Seal (11), if damaged, can be pried out from ignition side of gearcase. Use care not to damage camshaft end while prying.
7.
Disconnect ignition module wires from coil.
6.
8.
Remove ignition module side cover located next to the battery. Remove two mounting screws secur· Ing Ignition module and the screw securing the black ground wire. Remove Ignition module from frame.
Set retarded Ignition timing as previously described. Check advanced ignition timing under runn ing conditions as described.
7.
Install gasket (5) and Inner cover (4) with screws (3).
8.
Rivet outer cover (2) to Inner cover (4) with rivets (1).
7·56
If sensor plate (8) was completely removed It may be necessary to Install new wire pins, sockets and body receptacle.
To tachometer
To stop switch
1. Outer cover rivet (2) 2. Outer cover 3. Inner cover screw (2) 4. Inner cover 5. Gasket 6. Sensor plate screw (2) 7. Washer 8. Sensor plate
9. Rotor screw and star washer 10. Rotor 11. Camshaft 011 seal 12. Connector 13. Ignition module 14. Ignition coil 15. Spark plug cable (2) 16. Ignition coli terminal Figure 7·45. Ignition Components
CAUTION Use only rivets, Part No. 8699 to secure outer cover. (See Figure 7·46.) Timing cover rivets ere specially designed so there Is not rivet end to fall off Into timing compart· ment as with regular rivets. Use of regular rivets could cause damage to ignition components.
1173
Incorrect
Correct
Figure 7·46. Special Timing Cover Rivet 7·57
IGNITION -
LIGHT SWITCH
(XR·1000) (Figure 7·47) The combination Ignition - light switch Is a three posi. tlon switch. The vertical position Is OFF. For U.S.A. operation, the next two clockwise positions are ignition and head light. Key will lock Ignition in OFF position only, Switch must be replaced as a unit.
Off I
Ignition
: / .nOlighIS
~ (@ Figure 7-47. Ignition -
Ignition
.nOlighls
Light Switch
HORN (XR·1000) The horn Is on the left side of the bike and is mounted on the fuel tank mounting bOll. If the horn fails to blOW or does nol blow satisfactorily, check for loose, frayed or damaged wiring leading to horn terminal, adequate ground to frame through mounting hardware, discharged battery, etc. If these steps do not correct the trouble, the entire horn must be replaced. Mounting parts are replaceable.
SPARK PLUGS (XR·1000) GENERAL
INSTALLING SPARK PLUGS
Spark plugs should be replaced every 2500 miles. Use on ly the replacement spark plugs listed In SPECIFICATIONS XR·1000.
Tighten the spark plugs to 18-28 It-Ibs torque.
The GR7 pl ugs have a resistor element to reduce radio interference originating In the motorcycle ignition system. Only resistor type plugs should be used In the XR-1000 ignition system:
7·59
STOP SWITCH RIGHT DIRECTIONAL SWITCH STOPLIGHT SWITCH
RIGHT DIRECTIONAL LAMP
BROWN TAG SPEEDOMETER
OIL LAMP
RIGHT REAR DIRECTIONAL LAMP
TAIL LAMP
HEADLAMP PlUG
TAG
LEFT DIRECTIONAL LAMP
+t-
@
BLACK
CONNECTION
IGNITION SWITCH POSITION
•
OFF • RUN
o
YELLOW
@BROWN
0
RED
@BLUE
®
ORANGE
®
I L
@
PINK
~GREEN
0
VIOLET
§TAN
@
WHITE
GRAY
TAG TAG
HANDLEBAR GROUND WIRE
COLOR CODE:
NO CONNECTION
0---e--0-I1"
REAR STOPLIGHT SWITCH
- IGNITION CIRCUIT • CHARGING CIRCUIT
LIGHTS
VOLTAGE REGULATOR
1979 XLCH
~
,RIGHT DIRECTIONAL SWITCH
SlOP SWITCH START SWITCH
FASTEN TO'
rrI+ll+~={;;JSTc;PLIIG'"HTT SWITCH
~II UI r - -I ~ER'ND PICKUP
~ l'= ~&'
~DIRECTIONAL LAMP
~ VJ)
SPEEOOMETER rE:n-[)+---~
III IIII IIII
1__ 'BRO'WN TAG
•
M -SPARK COIL
I ~ ~
L..4-
rrm
-
~I
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