Wirra Wirra The King of Improbable Causes
WELCOME
Welcome to Wirra Wirra Few Australian wineries can boast a history as colourful and eccentric as Wirra Wirra in McLaren Vale. From the establishment of the vineyards and winery in the late 1800s by South Australian cricketer and larrikin Robert Strangways Wigley, to the construction of a catapult to honour the memory of the late, great Greg Trott, Wirra Wirra has been built on a spirit of adventure. Wirra Wirra has teamed up with Halliday Wine Companion to create an e-magazine that lifts the lid on one of Australia’s most celebrated wineries. Within these pages you will discover the stories behind the legends. As well as honouring the past, Wirra Wirra has its sights firmly on the future, offering a revitalised cellar door, stellar regional food, wine and coffee, and a host of exclusive tours that take visitors behind the scenes of this historic McLaren Vale winery. You’ll also hear from Senior Winemaker Paul Smith about the evolution of the Wirra Wirra style, his biodynamic approach in the Wirra Wirra vineyards, and the latest release of the Wirra Wirra flagships. We hope you enjoy the journey.
Contents 4 Legacy: A pair of eccentric visionaries 5 Legacy: What’s in a name 6 Visit: A regional hero 7 Visit: Harry’s Deli 8 Visit: The Wirra Wirra experience The 2015 Wirra Wirra Catapult Shiraz was rated 95 points in the 2016 Halliday Top 100. Find out more about this top-rated wine at wirrawirra.com
9 Winemaking: An evolution in style 10 Winemaking: The quest for quality 03
L E GACY
Wirra Wirra’s story is rich in eccentricity and characters who went against the grain. Whether it involved turning the ruins of an abandoned 19th-century estate into a world-class winery, or creating a medieval siege machine to bomb neighbouring vineyards, improbable causes have always been championed at Wirra Wirra. Such endeavours include building a belltower to house a three-quarter tonne bell, which is rung either on occasion or randomly, or placing a man in a bowler hat and suit in a red rowboat in the Scrubby Rise Vineyard (which is ironically flat and bereft of scrub). The eccentricity also extends to the staff at Wirra Wirra, whom are aptly named The Tribe, and run around the gardens during Australia’s most famous equestrian race astride broomsticks topped with cut-out horse heads (among other things). These antics all stem from the legacy of the the two founders of Wirra Wirra, Robert Strangways Wigley and Greg Trott, whose spirit of adventure informed the spirit of Wirra Wirra.
The birth of Wirra Wirra The story of these two men is full of unbridled entrepreneurialism – and they never let a challenge get the better of them. Robert Strangways Wigley came upon Wirra Wirra when he was banished to McLaren Vale to make amends for his ill-advised city ways. The former South Australian cricketer was infamous for a number of stunts, including commandeering the iconic Adelaide Pie Cart on horse and saddle, and tearing away from its bemused patrons along Adelaide’s King William Street in the heart of the city. Upon arrival in the settlement of McLaren Vale, Wigley atoned for his misguided youth by establishing Wirra Wirra in 1894 and exporting substantial quantities of wine to the Empire until his death in 1926. A committed bachelor with no family to follow his path, Wigley left behind a winery that fell into disrepair and ruin over the ensuing decades.
Trott’s enduring legacy Greg Trott
A legacy of eccentric visionaries 04
The Wirra Wirra hallmark of quality and character was reborn in 1969, when – along with his cousin Roger – Greg Trott rebuilt the Wirra Wirra winery from its crumbling shell, transforming it into the handsome winery it is today. Trott’s mantra was built upon his conviction that no idea was too big, outlandish or improbable, and that it should all be done with fun and good humour in mind. His unique approach put Wirra Wirra on the map, creating the first vintage of Church Block in 1972 and leaving a sizeable legacy on the winemaking landscape of this country. Trott’s vision has been enshrined in stone at the entrance to Wirra Wirra’s historic ironstone cellars: “Never give misery an even break, nor bad wine a second sip. You must be serious about quality, dedicated to your task in life, especially winemaking, but this should all be fun.”
L E GACY
What’s in a name The stories around Greg Trott and the legacy he left are reflected in many of Wirra Wirra’s wines.
Hiding Champion Sauvignon Blanc
Church Block First released in 1972, Trott took the name for the Church Block blend from one of the original vineyards, which runs next to the 1854-built Bethany Church, across the road from Wirra Wirra’s century-old ironstone cellars. Over the past four decades, the Church Block label has become one of Australia’s most enduring blends.
Woodhenge Shiraz The fence that adorns the Wirra Wirra entrance is a monument to “big” ideas and to Trott’s unique vision of what makes Wirra Wirra special. Wirra Wirra’s spin on the classic McLaren Vale style, the Woodhenge Shiraz is rich and bold with mouth-filling fruits and fine sandy tannins that give it a long and persistent finish, built to go the distance.
Lost Watch Riesling Just as he was apt to wander, Trotty was prone to misplacing things. He lost the only watch he ever owned, a gift from his father. From that day forth, Trott never bothered with a time-piece, avoiding the responsibility for such a valuable item. He claimed to tell the time by the sun, a noble, if impractical sentiment. So Trott was notoriously late – hours, even days – for dinners, meetings, flights and gatherings. Usually his charm garnered forgiveness from those kept in wait.
Trotty was a renowned ‘wanderer’. A simple run to the local shops might evolve into an interstate luncheon, phone seemingly absent from the journey. He would return a day or so later, bemused by the fuss. Although, one ‘unplanned’ visit to the UK was a stretch, even by his standards. Over time, the Wirra Wirra Tribe came to accept that Trotty was in training to become the Olympic hiding champion and it became part of life at Wirra Wirra.
Catapult Trott saw many of his unusual dreams realised at Wirra Wirra. Yet one vision eluded him – to build a medieval siege machine, or trebuchet. Why? To use as a catapult to bomb neighbouring wineries with bottles of wine, of course. Trott believed that if other wineries followed suit, he would have created a major tourism drawcard for his beloved McLaren Vale. Wirra Wirra fulfilled Trott’s ambition when they had their very own trebuchet built in 2010. While they don’t bomb the neighbours with wine bottles, they do hurl watermelons into a neighbouring paddock. It’s from this quirky contraption that the Catapult Shiraz takes its name. See the catapult swing into action. 05
CELLAR DOOR
A regional hero Not one to rest on the laurels of the past, the current caretaker of Wirra Wirra, Andrew Kay (above), has unleashed a new call to arms for The Tribe: to drive Wirra Wirra forward as the pre-eminent wine tourism experience in the region. Like his predecessors, this is no small ambition. The result is a stylish yet sympathetic upgrade to Wirra Wirra’s main cellar door; the introduction of Harry’s Deli, a providorestyle café that celebrates SA regional produce; the creation of the RS Wigley Room, a state-of-the-art meeting area in the old ironstone cellars; and the development of eight behind-the-scenes tours that offer a hands-on immersion into McLaren Vale and Wirra Wirra. Harry’s Deli takes its name from a much-loved McLaren Vale character Harry Kilaitis, a gifted carpenter who spent many of his days working out of Sparrow’s Lodge at Wirra Wirra. Harry passed away in 2009 but the oversized doors, tables and arches that are such a feature at Wirra Wirra are a reminder of his legacy. His story is immortalised in the new café at Wirra Wirra, as Harry made his way to Australia quite by chance, having planned to leave his ravaged home in Lithuania with a bunch of mates to join the Royal Canadian Mounties. Unfortunately for Harry, the boys spent their last night at home celebrating their good fortune with a little too much gusto, only to sleep in and miss the boat the following day. The next ship to sail was heading to Australia and so Harry’s journey began. 06
INSIDER TIP A quiet word in the ear of the cellar door staff is always worthwhile in case they have limited museum stock available to try and buy.
CELLAR DOOR
Harry’s Deli Great food, wine and coffee go hand in hand at Harry’s Deli, Wirra Wirra’s relaxed alfresco café and provedore. “Harry’s Deli offers visitors a relaxing and informal eating experience to accompany a glass or two of their favourite Wirra Wirra wines,” says Andrew Kay. “We’ve handpicked a list of fine local provedores who’ve made themselves at home in Harry’s Deli. This includes Dawn Patrol coffee roasters, who have worked with our winemakers to create our own exclusive coffee blend, the Church Blend.” “Plus, we have award-winning salumi from San Jose Smallgoods, legendary sourdough from Willunga’s Andy Clappis, and delicious cheeses from the larder at Say Cheese.” The light, accessible café menu features panini, regional platters, seasonal soups and salads, plus the must-try Trott Pie. To find out more about the artisanal fare, watch a video on San Jose Smallgoods here.
Bean scene Luke Beare (above) is the man responsible for the heart-starting espressos and silky lattes at Harry’s Deli. Seeing a common link between coffee and wine, Luke laid down a challenge for the winemakers at Wirra Wirra and the baristas at Dawn Patrol to create a coffee blend modelled on the flavours and aromas of Wirra Wirra’s Church Block blend. “Coffee and wine have similarities around provenance, blending, taste and aromatics,” says Luke. “Both have emerged from specific countries and climates, have regional and sub-regional characteristics and are assessed through nose and palate. It was a challenge the winemakers and baristas relished, and the end result is a signature blend borne out of our much-loved Church Block wine. Only available in Harry’s Deli, this unique blend features Caturra and Typica beans from Panama, and Castillo from Colombia, with a backdrop of red berry fruits and chocolate that pay fitting homage to the icon that is Church Block. Watch Luke in action 07
EXPERIENCES
The Wirra Wirra Experience Enhance your Wirra Wirra visit with a range of intimate tours and exclusive experiences that take you behind the scenes to reveal the legends and stories behind the wines. Flagships Learn the stories behind Wirra Wirra’s flagship wines and see the attention to detail that goes into crafting these very special wines. Discover the best vineyards in McLaren Vale, learn about barrel ageing in the old ironstone cellars, and taste five of Wirra Wirra’s most highly rated wines, matched with a regional platter from Harry’s Deli.
Trott’s Tour
Savouring SA
In this intimate back-of-house tour, learn the stories behind the wines and the late Greg Trott, who created the first ever Church Block. The stories come to life over a tasting in Trott’s Cellar, the original Cellar Door.
Discover the diversity of South Australian wine over a delicious lunch of regional produce. Wirra Wirra winemaker Paul Smith has selected some of the best regional combinations to showcase South Australia’s world-class wine scene. This exclusive experience includes a private tour of the old ironstone cellars and masterclass in Trott’s Cellar.
Shiraz Revolution Learn about barrel ageing in the historic Ironstone Cellars and taste five of Wirra Wirra’s best shiraz wines, including a rare museum vintage, in Trott’s Cellar, matched to a Four Winds Regional Chocolate Platter. Watch the Shiraz Revolution tour here.
Signature Day Tour Church Block Blending Session Join the Wirra Wirra team on a quest to create their most famous wine, the Church Block blend. Don a white lab coat to learn about the cabernet sauvignon, shiraz and merlot that make up a typical Church Block blend. Armed with measuring cylinders, pipettes and your own finely tuned palate, bring your blend to life, before relaxing over a tasting in Trott’s Cellar and a regional platter from Harry’s Deli. Watch the blending session in action.
Richard Gunner Sausage Making
Classic McLaren Vale Join a Cellar Door specialist for an in-depth masterclass on the characteristics of cabernet, grenache and shiraz. See how each wine is made and the different techniques used to bring out the very best from each of these grapes. You’ll learn about barrel ageing and enjoy some of Wirra Wirra’s best wines, both single varietal and blends. 08
Known for providing the finest South Australian cuts to homes and high-end restaurants across the nation, the team at Richard Gunner’s Feast Fine Foods is serious when it comes to meat. Take part in a hands-on sausage-making class and then take your creations home to share with family and friends. Don’t worry if you live interstate: Wirra Wirra can arrange food safety delivery Australia-wide. A tasting of Wirra Wirra wines will follow, plus a lunch that allows you to enjoy the fruits of your labour.
Wirra Wirra’s most extensive tour grants access to all of its attractions, including the famous medieval trebuchet. Take a private tour of the old ironstone cellars, enjoy a blending session in the 100-year-old barrel room, then head next door to Trott’s Cellar to taste five of Wirra Wirra’s most highly rated wines. After a lunch of regional produce, cap off the day by hurling watermelons from the giant catapult while you nibble on a cheese platter and enjoy a glass of wine. There’s no better way to see McLaren Vale. See the catapult swing into action.
An evolution in style It’s not just the Wirra Wirra Cellar Door that has undergone a modern makeover. Under the guidance of Senior Winemaker Paul Smith, the Wirra Wirra wines have continued a quiet evolution in style. Paul’s mantra is to “let the fruit shine” and this approach sees grapes picked at the first sign of optimum ripeness and flavour, and less intrusive use of oak than may once have been McLaren Vale’s calling card. “Everything starts in the vineyard and my aim is to harvest fruit with great vibrancy and good flavour intensity, and continue that approach in the winery, where minimal intervention allows the great vineyard sites to shine,” Paul says. “I want our wines to look bright and lively in the glass and demand a second viewing,” he says. “And coming from a region that is spoilt for choice when it comes to fresh produce, it’s important that they work well with food.” Wirra Wirra has always had a reputation for nurturing the environment. Founder Greg Trott was a pioneer in environmental care and continually spoke out on the issues of water management, land conservation and chemical use back in the days when the term “environmental” was associated with tree hugging and tie-dye t-shirts.
This environmental awareness has been taken even further by the modern-day Wirra Wirra team, who have embraced solar energy, as well as the regeneration of native flora and the adoption of biodynamic viticulture practices in recent years. In fact, the Wirra Wirra vineyards are now certified biodynamic, an accreditation process that has been more than 10 years in the making. The vineyard team are quite obsessive about it all, making their own biodynamic preparations and compost onsite (which fortunately happens well away from the public domain). With the abandonment of chemical and pesticide use under this regime, the mid-rows and under vine areas are carefully managed to ensure nutrientrich and vital soil profiles that display a healthy presence of worm life at the turn of a shovel. “While this has contributed to a cleaner environmental footprint, the impact on our vineyards has been substantial,” says Paul. “With biodynamic practices and its underlying commitment to organics, we have definitely seen an alleviation of pressure on the vineyard site and improved performance in the flavours and tannin profiles of our fruit over time.”
Paul Smith
To showcase these vineyards, Paul has introduced a biodynamic range called the Amator, which includes a shiraz and cabernet sauvignon. The wines take their name from the Latin word meaning ‘to do something for love rather than reward’, which anyone who has owned a vineyard can readily identify with. It also reflects the commitment the team has to preserving these old vines for the generations to follow. The Amator range is much sought after, and is available exclusively at the Wirra Wirra Cellar Door.
“I want our wines to look bright and lively in the glass and demand a second viewing.” Senior Winemaker Paul Smith
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WINEMAKING
The quest for quality At the start of October each year, Wirra Wirra releases three flagship wines to showcase what they believe to be the best examples of shiraz, cabernet sauvignon and grenache from a particular season. Typically, each wine is a blend of the fruit from two to four vineyards that have made the grade in the eyes of Senior Winemaker Paul Smith. Each block should stand up in its own right, but Paul believes that the sum of the contributing parts makes for a more complete wine. “The McLaren Vale landscape is so diverse,” says Paul. “There are sub-regions such as Blewitt Springs with their sandy soils that we know provide lovely aromatics, others such as McLaren Flat that bring mid-palate weight and an area such as Seaview that offers the structure and fine tannins that carry the wine. For me, each plays their role and that’s what makes putting the final blend together so satisfying.” Paul’s selection process keeps the volume of these wines limited, but that is part of the challenge of setting the bar high. It also means looking beyond Wirra Wirra’s own vineyards, the best of which are targeted for the flagships. “We are fortunate to work with a group of local growers who understand what we are trying to achieve with these wines,” says Paul. “By looking outside of our own estate, we significantly open up the palette of flavours, textures and character we can bring to each wine. We identify the “right” blocks, working with them from the start of the growing season, through harvest and then into the winery to give the fruit every chance to shine.” 10
With the latest releases, the 2015 The Absconder Grenache, 2014 RSW Shiraz and 2014 The Angelus Cabernet Sauvignon, Paul has challenged his team to bring the best examples of what McLaren Vale can do with each variety. “At Wirra Wirra, we don’t want to be known for just great shiraz or grenache or cabernet,” says Paul. “With the access we have to these incredible old vineyards we want to excel at all three varieties, because we believe McLaren Vale has the scope to deliver beautifully on them all.”
“By looking outside of our own estate, we significantly open up the palette of flavours, textures and character we can bring to each wine.” Senior Winemaker Paul Smith
WINEMAKING
2014 RSW Shiraz VINEYARDS: l BLEWITT SPRINGS l McLAREN VALE l McLAREN FLAT
The RSW is named after Robert Strangways Wigley, the South Australian eccentric and state cricketer who established Wirra Wirra back in 1894. Sweet berries, Christmas cake and clove layer over blueberry and plum on the nose of this classically inviting, spicy, generous and varietal shiraz. The classic dark chocolate and earthy character of McLaren Vale shiraz is drenched in juicy, moreish blackberries and plums. Seasoned with cinnamon spice and cedar, framed by structural yet polished tannin, this wine is deceptively attractive in youth but will generously reward careful cellaring with increased complexity and savoury notes. 96 points, James Halliday
2014 The Angelus Cabernet Sauvignon VINEYARDS:
l SEAVIEW l BLEWITT SPRINGS l ONKAPARINGA HILLS l McLAREN FLAT
This wine takes its name from the three-quarter tonne Angelus Bell that sits proudly atop the cellars at Wirra Wirra. The name “The Angelus” is reserved for exceptional parcels of cabernet sauvignon that showcase the best of McLaren Vale. Expect a complex and deep bouquet of forest berries, leafy undergrowth and tilled earth, roast meats, spices, cedar, sandalwood and leather. On the palate, cabernet fruits are beautifully rich, dense and fleshy, with mouth-watering acidity and layers of luscious black cherry and cassis, all tightly gripped by the challenging, structured tannin that is the hallmark of a bright, youthful wine with a brilliant framework for ageing. 96 points, James Halliday
2015 The Absconder Grenache VINEYARDS: FLAT (90+ YEARS) l ONKAPARINGA GORGE l McLAREN
From one of the oldest grenache blocks in McLaren Vale comes a wine whose heritage dates back to our founder Robert Strangways Wigley’s time. Named after one of Wigley’s infamous escapades, where he absconded with the famous Adelaide pie-cart and took it for a joy ride through the city streets, which was the catalyst for his banishment to McLaren Vale. An intensely perfumed wine, the captivating purity of blueberry, plum and cherry is complemented by more ethereal notes of rosewater, dried thyme and ginger. On the palate there is an abundance of sweet fruits and Turkish delight, balanced with earthy, savoury notes and dry spices. The palate carries forward in dramatic, silky ribbons of fine-grained tannin with effortless style, grace and poise. 93 points, Tyson Stelzer
“The wines are of exemplary character, quality and style, The Angelus Cabernet Sauvignon and RWS Shiraz battling each other for supremacy, with The Absconder Grenache one to watch. Long may the battle continue.” James Halliday, 2017 Halliday Wine Companion
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