ESTILA beauty guide SPECIAL 2018
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Welcome to the first ESTILA GUIDE!
TIMELESS BEAUTY New year, new ways, new changes. Thank you to every reader of ESTILA who has been supporting us over the past year. I'm truly overwhelmed with the emails and messages I get from you about how much you enjoy reading our content. Please keep sharing your thoughts with us on social media with #estilamag hashtag. We love seeing and reading them all. Now, this issue is very different. I must admit that it's an experiment. We have so much great content that is hidden either on our website or in ESTILA VOLUMES, which I believe you deserve to read. And so here it is, the first edition of ESTILA GUIDE, a carefully curated collection of inspiring, informative and motivating articles - some new but all about timeless beauty. Hope you like it! Love,
Karolina xx Karolina Barnes editor in chief
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editor's recommended reads interview Caroline Hirons 08 A must-read interview with one of the biggest UK beauty bloggers.
hidden story Kilian 39 We take you into the world of Kilian, a perfume luxury brand where sophisticated style meets eco-luxe ethos.
launched mahler & kin 14 We talked to the founder of mahler & kin about her journey to launching a luxurious women's razor product range.
Cover: Sheer Lips, p.16
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WIN A MAKE-UP BAG BUCHI FROM DAR LEONE Cotton make-up bag featuring a contemporary take on the ancient woven textile traditions of the Bouyei people of Southern China known for their intricately designed woven silks. Printed on Cotton. Size is 22 x 15cm. Closing date: 28.02.2018
ENTER PRIZE DRAW T&C apply.
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HAVE YOU GOT A STORY TO TELL? We are looking for inspirational life stories, products and emerging brands in interiors, fashion and lifestyle. If you have a story to share, please get in touch at editor@estila.co
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WANT ESTILA BOOKAZINE? Yes, please!
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skincare
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interview with..
Caroline Hirons words by Nicola McCullough, photography by Dan Kennedy
In an industry where face tuning and photo shopping are de rigeur, Caroline Hirons is known and loved for her straight talking approach. An internationally qualified facialist trained in more than 100 brands, she shares a verging-on-biblical knowledge of skincare on her blog and YouTube - and has recently released her first product. Often on camera top knotted and make-up free with a cup of tea, Caroline intersperses skincare chat with anecdotes on family life and a passion for music... a refreshing mix of expertise and relatability that attracts a global following of loyal readers and viewers. I caught up with her for a chat about pores, blogging and how it felt to see her first product in the window of Harvey Nichols.
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YOUR FAMILY HISTORY IN THE BEAUTY BUSINESS GOES WAY BACK... DO YOU THINK YOU'D HAVE ENDED UP WHERE YOU ARE REGARDLESS? No. It was never discussed in my youth; at one point in my teens I wanted to be a secretary because I really enjoyed admin. Oh how the times have changed! AS ONE OF THE ORIGINAL BEAUTY BLOGGERS, WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO BEGIN? Bad/little advice about skincare. Everyone was obsessed with make-up; no one was talking about what goes on underneath it. IT WOULD BE FAIR TO SAY YOU HAVE A LOT GOING ON... BETWEEN BRAND CONSULTANCY, SKIN CONSULTATIONS, THE BLOG AND BEING A MUM OF FOUR. DO YOU ENJOY BEING SO BUSY? Yes. I think the saying ‘if you need something doing, give it to a busy woman’ is very true! THE LAUNCH OF YOUR FIRST PRODUCT - DOUBLE CLEANSE WITH PIXI BEAUTY - HAS BEEN HUGELY SUCCESSFUL... HOW LONG DID THE PROCESS TAKE FROM FIRST CONCEPT - AND WHICH ELEMENTS DID YOU ENJOY THE MOST? It was actually fairly quick, I had the product in my head and Pixi were so easy to work with that the process was simple. I gave them a brief and they followed it to a T. They didn’t try and cut corners or costs, which was brilliant. HOW DID IT FEEL TO SEE DOUBLE CLEANSE IN THE WINDOW OF HARVEY NICHOLS - AND CAN WE EXPECT TO SEE MORE PRODUCTS FROM YOU IN FUTURE? It was great. It was in the window literally 10 feet from where I used to stand in the original SpaceNK department 20 years ago! 12
WHAT HAS BEEN YOUR BIGGEST BUSINESS LESSON TO DATE? Follow your gut – and never, ever take the money if something doesn’t feel right. YOUR BLOG READERS AND YOUTUBE SUBSCRIBERS LOVE YOUR STRAIGHT TALKING APPROACH... HAS IT EVER GOT YOU INTO TROUBLE? Only in the corporate world, which I think is a reflection of their mentality, not mine. I’m never overtly mean or hyper-critical, some brands/retailers are just used to surrounding themselves with ‘Yes’ people. That is not my forte. ;) WHICH SKINCARE QUESTION DO YOU GET ASKED THE MOST OFTEN? How do I get rid of my pores? And the answer is ‘You can’t’. IF YOU COULD OFFER YOUR DAUGHTER ONE PIECE OF ADVICE ABOUT HER FUTURE, WHAT WOULD IT BE? Don’t work for corporate! She has my personality, I can save her years of pain. LOL. SO MANY PEOPLE ARE HOPING YOU'LL LAUNCH YOUR OWN SKINCARE LINE OR WRITE A BOOK... WHAT ARE THE CHANCES? I’m not interested in writing a book, although I never say never. I am asked weekly to write one and my response is always the same: I have 1350 posts on my blog. Using the average number of words in a book, I’ve already written 7 of them. They’re all online, for free, under carolinehirons.com. Enjoy!
"Everyone was obsessed about make-up, no one was talking about what goes underneath." 13
WHAT'S THE TOP TIP YOUR MOTHER EVER GAVE YOU, BEAUTY RELATED OR OTHER? Wash your face before bed, no exceptions. And treat everyone the same. From shop floor to management. That’s stood me in good stead. TOP 3 PRODUCTS FOREVER IN YOUR SKINCARE STASH? Balm cleanser, acid toner and vitamin A. I couldn’t possibly pick individual products! WHAT IS YOUR BIGGEST PASSION BESIDES SKINCARE? Outside of the obvious answer of family, music. We’re all music heads. My husband and two eldest sons are all musicians and as a family we bond over certain songs more than anything. WHAT WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO BE REMEMBERED FOR? I won’t care. Genuinely. I won’t be here. And the only people whose opinion about me that I care about after I’m gone are the four humans I gave birth to. I hope they know how much they were the absolute foundation of my life and how hard I tried to live up to being their mother. Because it is my privilege every single day. And what they think of me is their business. No one else’s!
Double Cleanse, Pixi £24.00
Find Caroline at carolinehirons.com | IG: @carolinehirons | YouTube: Caroline Hirons
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tried & tested
The luxury cleanse words by Nicola McCullough
While on the subject of cleansing, we tested two luxe products recently. Cleansing is a crucial part of our skincare routine, it's the step that many consider a chore - or even avoid completely. Cleansing not only removes makeup and daily grime, but preps the skin, creating a smooth fresh base on which to apply our favourite products. A cleanser with the right ingredients can help unblock pores, reduce breakouts and double up as a skin treatment.
Omorovicza Thermal Cleansing Balm Made with Hungarian Moor Mud, this decadent black balm is mineral-rich with sweet almond oil orange blossom, vitamins and more. ÂŁ 52.00
Votary Rose Geranium & Apricot Cleansing Oil Lightweight oil in a beautiful green glass bottle is part of a luxe natural skincare line developed by top makeup artist, Arabella Preston and Charlotte Semlar. ÂŁ 45.00 15
advice
The skin you're in words and photography by Nicola McCullough
A friend phones to rave about the latest eye wateringly expensive product that has transformed her skin... you purchase online before you've even hung up and a week later, prepare for the magic to happen. Your skin breaks out after a single application of said miracle-promising potion... or you use it religiously for months and notice no difference at all. Heart sinking... When it comes to skincare, one size does not suit all - and the importance of choosing the right products for our individual needs is often learnt the hard way. Before you pound the aisles of your local skincare mecca, consider the following and choose accordingly. Skin type Choose a skincare range that's designed for your skin type. Most products are labelled as suitable for normal/dry, oily/combination or sensitive skin. Objectives The results you're hoping for could depend on many factors - from acne and pigmentation to aging and sensitive skin conditions. Specific ingredients will treat each one - do your research, or better still, find a professional skincare advisor you can really trust.
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Age If youth is on your side, you're in the lucky position of being able to prevent future damage - keep things simple with a cleanser, moisturiser and SPF. If minimising the effects of aging is important to you, look for active ingredients such as Retinol, Vitamin C and peptides. Budget Some products are worth investing more in than others. A gentle budget eye makeup remover will deliver for most, while a decent serum / treatment is worth sacrificing those shoes for.
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When it comes to skincare habits, most of us opt for: 1/ Wash & Go - creamy face wash, moisturiser with built-in SPF and out the door 2/ The Whole Shebang - your skincare routine is like a religious ritual, the more steps the better... or somewhere in between, so shop accordingly. When it comes to using your products of choice, timing is of the essence. SPF is only required during the day, so there's no point in using a moisturiser with Factor 50 at night. Some treatments such as Retinol and Alpha Hydroxy Acids are best used on bare skin at night to minimise sun damage (and must be followed with SPF next morning). Heavy face oils won't sit well under make-up and extra rich creams may cause pilling, so should be saved for overnight use. Investing a little time and effort into caring for your skin may not produce miraculous results, but will help you look and feel your best, for longer.
"When it comes to using your products of choice, timing is of the essence."
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Accidental Business
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brand's story
Oskia words by Nicola McCullough
Often the most innovative products evolve from their creator's individual needs, which is exactly how OSKIA skincare came about. Only naturally derived, skin-kind ingredients and a wealth of expertise are used in the independent brand's award-winning collection. Estila team essentials include the Renaissance Cleansing Gel and Mask, which is equally effective and a joy to use. Founder, Georgie Cleeves, comes from a family of entrepreneurs going back generations. I caught up with her to talk skincare and a refreshingly down to earth business ethos. WHAT IS THE STORY AND INSPIRATION BEHIND OSKIA? You could describe OSKIA as a bit of an accident. Back in my teens I suffered from severe cartilage damage in my knee (from over skiing) and after my fourth knee operation my father persuaded me to try his horse supplement that was designed to improve the joints of race horses - MSM, the most bio-available form of sulphur and known for its collagen boosting properties. He introduced MSM to the market over 30 years ago. Needless to say my knees completely repaired, so much so that I climb, compete in triathlons and was a ski instructor for a year, with no pain at all. What I didn’t expect was the dramatic difference in my skin. My acne and eczema both disappeared (a rare combination) and my hair and nails became strong and long. The seed of an idea was sown. Life and a career got in the way, but in 2009, after spending 4 years investigating the effects of nutrients on the skin and skincare therapy, OSKIA was born. 21
WHAT WAS YOUR BIGGEST CHALLENGE WHEN SETTING UP OSKIA? The name! It needed to be trademarkable and totally unique. It took us months to come up with OSKIA which is derived from the Ancient Greek for ‘delivering beauty’ and ‘nutrition.’ WHAT DO YOU THINK SETS OSKIA APART FROM OTHER SKINCARE BRANDS? Integrity and honesty. I am also a consumer and I loathe empty promises. I also believe that if you are going to do something you might as well do something properly. If a product doesn't meet my expectations 100%, I won’t launch it. We were also the first to use bio-available nutrients and this set us apart from others. WE LOVE OSKIA'S GIMMICK-FREE ETHOS... DO YOU THINK TRANSPARENCY IS BECOMING INCREASINGLY IMPORTANT TO CUSTOMERS? Absolutely. I think customers are much more clued up on skincare these days and brands need to be far more transparent with their labeling and product promises. WHICH MUST-HAVE OSKIA PRODUCTS DO YOU INCLUDE IN YOUR DAILY SKINCARE ROUTINE? I'm always trying new ingredients and products, but my absolute staples are the Renaissance Cleansing Gel & Restoration Oil. IF WE WERE TO SPLURGE ON ONLY ONE ELEMENT OF A SKINCARE REGIME, WHICH WOULD YOU RECOMMEND? A really good night serum as this is where you’ll see the biggest impact in a short space of time.
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Products we love ...
Renaissance 360, A nourishing day cream to combat the signs of ageing, pigmentation, improve elasticity and facial contour. £ 70.00
Restoration Oil A beautiful blend of nutrients, floral oils & actives designed to restore the skin's youthful vitality. £ 64.00
Renaissance Brightlight A correcting serum that targets pigmentation, dark-spots and sun damage to brighten the complexion. £ 42.16
Renaissance Cleansing Gel A nourishing pink cleansing gel to oil for beautifully fresh, bright skin. £ 31.00
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newly launched
Mahler & Kin Story words and photography by Karolina Barnes
Our brand concept came to life while I was on maternity leave. Being a mother was a challenge in itself but I wanted to utilise the time to explore and develop my passion for business and creativity. I love my career as a buyer and wanted to ensure I did not lose touch! mahler & kin was born on holiday 2016. Through gritted teeth my husband asked if I had, once again, been using his razor. And thus began my age old rant about there being a distinct lack of attractive women's razors that ACTUALLY worked without going goopy and mouldy within 3 days. I have designed the razors with a minimalistic and stylish form. In the women's market this is almost impossible to come by and the men's market is dominated by traditional styles - our razors will look beautiful in any bathroom. My family are Scandinavian so I love designing products with beautiful form but also function - they are made from an anti-wet grip premium resin with 18 carat rose golf finish. All our razors are handmade in England, which is very important to us, to a very high quality specification. They simply won't rust, scratch or come apart. The razors fit either a Gillette Mach 3 or a Venus blade so our customers can choose which suits them best and can replace them conveniently. As standard they come with a Mach 3 blade as I believe this gives the best shave, but we don't discriminate between the women's world or the men's! You can buy our razors at mahlerandkin.com or we are stocked in boutiques in London and across the country to the North of England. 27
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make-up
& perfumes 29
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advice
Sheer lips words and photography by Nicola McCullough
Too busy for immaculate red lips 24/7 but fancy an effortlessly polished look? A sheer wash of colour is more vibrant than nude tones and easy to top up on the go, with many formulas both nourishing and prettifying in a single swipe. Usually in the form of a lip tint or coloured balm, this low maintenance option adds life to the face with a stylishly undone vibe.
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Colour Adjusting Balm If you're super nervous about lipstick, colour adjusting lip balms are a great starting point and do exactly as the name suggests. Bobbi Brown Extra Lip Tint (my most used lip product ever) softens and conditions while adding an oh so natural tint. The colour adapts to your individual lip colour so looks different on everyone... Bare Pink looks peachy pink on me while Bare Melon is more of a just bitten coral.
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Lip Tint Remember how red lollipops stained your lips as a child in that first foray into the wonders of make up? Lip tints are the grown up alternative, with the Body Shop and Benefit's versions probably the best known (and still around), staining the lips with a wash of colour that wears off throughout the day. Pixi Gel Tint & Silk Gloss is a double ended wand with a lip tint at one end and gloss at the other. I like to apply two coats of stain then add gloss on the centre of my lower lip for a long lasting tint. Shade 121 (rose pink on the lips) is my favourite. Sheer Matte Matte lips are a whole lot more wearable in a sheer formula and less drying to boot. Bourjois Rouge Edition Souffle de Velvet in Coquelic'oh is a great entry point to red lips. Don't be fooled by the deep colour in the tube... this really does apply sheer and can be built up a little, if preferred.
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Tinted Balm Traditionally, tinted balms are extremely sheer - essentially lip balm with a whisper of colour. If you prefer yours with a little more pigment, GlamGlow Poutmud Tints are a must try. Infused with hydrating sweet almond oil, shea butter and vitamin-rich Moroccan mint leaf, Starlet is the most exquisite cherry red.
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shop them here
Pixi Gel Tint & Silk Gloss A double ended wand with a lip tint at one end and gloss at the other. £ 14.00
GlamGlow Infused with hydrating sweet almond oil, shea butter and vitamin-rich Moroccan mint leaf. £ 16.00
Bourjois Rouge Edition Souffle de Velvet in Coquelic'oh is a great entry point to red lips.
Bobbi Brown Extra Lip Tint softens and conditions while adding an oh so natural tint.
£8.99
£ 25.50
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timeless style
The Classic Look words and photography by Karolina Barnes
When it comes to my make-up, I like keeping things simple. The classic look is my go-to every day quick and easy style. There are two products that I never miss to apply before I head off to do the school run or walk the dog. The Urban Decay’s Naked 2 eye shadow palette and the Dior’s Lucky lipstick. Both of them are for definition. The Naked palette is so easy to use. For light definition I use the lighter, non-sparkle tones and for heavier, more dramatic definition I move to the darker side of the palette. And the lips? Well, Dior Addict goes with everything. I love its consistency and wearability. No wonder it's my favourite. 36
tried & tested
Naked Palette, Urban Decay This collection lets you achieve many neutral looks, smoky dramatic eyes, and everything in between. The case has an art-school inspired look and also features a double-ended, cruelty-free Good Karma Shadow/Crease Brush. ÂŁ 42.16
Dior Addict lipstick, Dior With ultra-moisturising soft core that runs the full length of the stick, composed of three expert oils among the shiniest used in cosmetics. ÂŁ 23.85
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practical essentials
Make-up bags words and photography by Karolina Barnes
Four different materials, four different designs but one big impact for all your make-up essentials while on the go.
velvet
Palmier, Elizabeth Scarlett £ 25.00
waterproof
Clara, Samantha Warren £ 37.50
cotton
Buchi, Dar Leone £ 28.00
WIN
wool
Wool cosmetic bag, Hettie £ 45.00 39
hidden story
A Woman in Gold words and photography by Karolina Barnes
"I want to put perfumery back on its pedestal by going back to the truth about perfume; back to the way perfume was made in the late 19th and the early 20th century, but adding a contemporary twist at the same time", says Kilian Henessy, the founder of Kilian. Not only that the perfume brand reflects his personality and passion for perfumes, it also puts emphasis on "eco-luxe" philosophy whereby each bottle can be refilled and kept for a lifetime.
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I was invited to experience the "Perfume Tasting" session which combines two most luxurious elements - perfume and chocolate. I learnt that apparently chocolate helps us to understand perfume complexities and layers, and the way we translate each scent as individuals. No same perfume is understood and interpreted in the same way. I was impressed by how Kilian creates unexpected products that embody ultimate sophistication and timeless luxury, but also how much he pays attention to details. When you visit one of Kilian's perfume boutiques, you also can admire a collection of wearable scented jewellery and decorative objects for the home. I love how he thinks about each object not only as a decorative element, whether that's through the jewellery or a candle, but also how multifunctional each can be. Every product is designed around his passion for perfumery, art and creative thinking. While art leaves its mark, perfume has an inherently immaterial dimension. The top notes, the heart notes, citrus or explosive. But there must be something for the eye to take in to - the bottle, the material, the vaporiser; and the box, the bed in which it lies, like an echo, an apparition, a transition to the real. Kilian and his artisans "opted to risk coming down to earth, to work with silver, gold, Calais lace and lacquer; to seek ways to recharge (and not throw away); to dare to interpret what they dream, draw out the essence and immortalise it."
"Where sophisticated style meets eco-luxe. Recharge, not throw away is the philosophy of Kilian."
Find more information visit BYKILIAN.COM 42
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perfect nails
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advice
Nude nails words and photography by Nicola McCullough
While traditionally nude, mannequin-esque nails have been around forever, this season brings barely-there tones for all tastes. Try sheer French Manicure style glosses such as French Nude by Parisian brand, Kure Bazaar (on my thumb) or Angel from Jessica's Phenom line (on my pinkie). Both leave a semi-sheer, barely-pink milky finish that looks good at the office or when out and about. For a slightly more opaque finish, Muchi Muchi by Essie (ring finger) is the perfect ballerina pink without a hint of sugary sweetness. Imagine the petals of the palest pink rose and you're there - plus a wide, curved brush makes this a dream to apply.
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Traditionally nude Beige Rose shades work well on a lot of skin tones and Nails Inc George Street (middle finger) is a great option. Try Porchester Square if you prefer a slightly deeper colour with cool undertones. Barry M has given luxury brands a run for their money this season with an impressive nude collection featuring shades to match a variety of skin tones, such as Beachy Keen (fore finger), a warm neutral that will accentuate deeper skins and help fairer skins escape the mannequin look. One of the biggest selling points of neutral nails is their ability to elongate fingers in a similar fashion to nude courts on legs. It's all about finding the most flattering shade for you. They're also great for beginners being much easier to apply than brights or vampy shades. Fancy mixing things up a bit? Try pastels for a gentle whisper of colour, pale metallics to add interest or stark white for a bold contrast. Or try neutrals as a base for negative space nail art or coloured French manicures... much prettier and more flattering than a naked nail base.
shop
Phenom, Jessica ÂŁ 13.50
Muchi Muchi, Essie ÂŁ 7.99
George Street, Nail Inc ÂŁ11.00 47
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ESTILA MAGAZINE editor in chief
Karolina Barnes fashion editor
Flavia Young @ Luxe Layers beauty editors
Nicola McCullough @ StrawberryBlonde Beauty Karla Cihak food editor
Ellen Stanton @ Pale Blue Plate design editor
Emilia Vespoli @ ViaSanVito interiors editor
Anouska Lancaster @ Noushka Design researcher & proof reader
Claire Smith @ Eclairesva
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