ESTILA EDIT 42/43 PURPOSE DRIVEN

PURPOSE DRIVEN The next generation lifestyle brands that are changing our shopping habits

EDIT 42/43

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EDITORS Karolina Barnes Emilia Vespoli Flavia Young / luxe-layers.com Nicola McCullough / strawberryblondebeauty.com

PHOTOGRAPHER Anna Southgate (Weald Handmade feature)

CONTACT estila.co / IG @estilamag Tell us your story: editor@estila.co Website: estila.co COVER IMAGE

PIPÉT, the story on p. 6

This is the annual SPECIAL EDITION created by STUDIO/ ESTILA t/a Palantti Ltd. The entire content of this edition is protected by copyright and may not be reproduced without written consent from its creator. Printed in the UK.

The views expressed in this edition are those of the respective contributors and are not necessarily shared by the creator.

2 Original work and photography are copyrighted by its owner. This is a FREE edition to ESTILA subscribers only.

Welcome to the annual edition of

PURPOSE DRIVEN After a very successful last year’s annual special edition, I’m so happy to introduce you to “Purpose Driven - The next generation lifestyle brands that change our shopping habits”.

Here you find twelve brand stories sharing their ethos on manufacturing in the UK, slow fashion, sustainable living and made by hand products. I hope that it will give you some more insight into what is available on the market, changing your perception of product quality, British craftsmanship and talent we have on our doorstep.

As always, thank you for reading and your continuous support.

Enjoy!

Karolina Barnes / editor-in-chief

PIPÉT fabric close up 3

PIPÉT fabric collection

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ETHOS: SUPPORTING BRITISH MANUFACTURING WHY BRITISH MANUFACTURING British manufacturing contributed significantly to early economic growth in the late 18th century. While industrialisation resulted in an increased population and urbanisation, the growing pressures of such changes had an impact on social, economic and political landscapes. Innovation in technology was needed to cater for a growing demand in agriculture, manufacturing, shipping and trade.

In its manufacturing heydays, Britain was the most advanced nation technologically in the world. But the position of being the largest manufacturer started to decline when Germany and the USA caught up and eventually overtook Britain in the early 20th century.

Still, by mid 20th century manufacturing made up 48% of the UK economy. But as we move closer to the present time, there is a further sharp decline. In 2013, the percentage of manufacturing in the economy has fallen to only 13%.

Over the last few years, we have seen a growing interest in British manufacturing because we (consumers) demand it more. And no wonder - keeping manufacturing closer to home has many benefits:

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Better quality control and therefore better communication Lower transportations costs and therefore lower impact on the environment Reduced supply chains

CASE STUDIES The following case studies have supporting British manufacturing as part of their ethos. At the core of their brand stories, they want to help keep traditional skills, craftsmanship and knowledge, passed on from generation to generation, alive.

They understand the importance of British heritage of design and manufacture, and they build their partnerships on trust, reliability and unrivalled quality. Put it simply, they don’t compromise on their values for the sake of making large profits.

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PIPÉT WEBSITE: pipetdesign.com IG: @pipetdesign

BRAND STORY With an artistic upbringing (both her father and grandmother being artists and creatives) Gina Pipét studied Fine Art, Textiles and Photography before graduating in Printed Textiles at Winchester School of Art. It was during her final year that Gina really began developing her distinctive handwriting. After a decade long career working for the prestigious fashion house Liberty of London and her role as Senior Menswear Product Developer at AllSaints, Gina launched her accessories label and studio PIPÉT. Specialising in printed fabric and accessories for fashion and interior, Gina takes a look at British eclecticism which she fuses with a clean modern sensibility. However, in recent years, living in and travelling to major cities has made an impact on her aesthetic. Her focus on decorative objects d’art now includes more masculine forms such as inner-city landscapes and architecture, which she captures from different vantage points.

THEIR VALUES Celebrating fine British craftsmanship all their products are printed and handmade in England to the highest standard. They believe in beautifully considered design.

Keeping collections small and offering a bespoke service ensures exclusivity, creativity and uniqueness in every piece.

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HETTIE WEBSITE: hettie.co.uk IG: @hettie

BRAND STORY Hettie is a family owned lifestyle brand born from a passion for traditional British fabrics and a respect for old fashioned craftsmanship. Made in the UK, every Hettie accessory is crafted from the finest local materials, by British craftsmen and women.

Whether you are accessorising yourself, or your four legged companion, you are taking home a piece of British heritage in every purchase.

THEIR VALUES Hettie proudly combines beautiful design with family values and traditional British manufacture. Their collections are born from the love and compassion they have for their own family, from grandchildren to their four-legged fur babies. Each piece within the collection has been designed to be treasured and has been made with care in England.

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HOUSE OF HOPSTOCK WEBSITE: houseofhopstock.com IG: @houseofhopstock

BRAND STORY House of Hopstock was founded by Aase Hopstock. Working for ten years in the footwear industry in London, Aase was increasingly frustrated with the way fast fashion was moving forward. After assessing her life she decided to go back to her first love of drawing and set up House of Hopstock as a brand based around her bold and vibrant artwork. Their products are meant to be permanent, so nothing is ever ‘last season’ and therefore suddenly disposable.

THEIR VALUES Sustainability and ethics go hand in hand and includes paying attention to production, materials, work process, packaging and waste, the longevity of products, ability to repair, and giving back. It also means being transparent and honest with their customers. To them, sustainability is also about people and skills. The velvet they use is woven on Britain’s last remaining velvet mill, and their silk scarves are hand hemmed by new mothers who cannot go back to work yet, but still need income.

They try to push their suppliers to offer more recycled and unbleached options, as well as fibres such as hemp and bamboo. Their packaging is unbleached, recycled and recyclable, and all waste from the studio and design process is recycled too.

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Hide The Label

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ETHOS: SLOW FASHION

WHY SLOW FASHION Even though the first mention of “slow fashion” was coined by a journalist Kate Fletcher in her article for The Ecologist in 2007, its loose concept can be found in fashion history before standardised garment production. Back then, most clothing was produced in small workshops or homes. Quality of materials alongside longevity and durability of fabric were important factors. Clothing was made by hand and therefore it took longer to produce, in comparison to today’s mass production practices.

By definition, slow fashion recognises the processes and resources required to make clothing in more sustainable and environmentally friendly ways. As a trendy word in the current fashion retail landscape, the meaning of slow fashion is much more than. It’s a whole movement of businesses and brands as well as conscious consumers who are passionate about the impact fashion has on the environment and society.

The benefits of slow fashion are undoubtedly very positive for the future of people and our planet. But what does it really take for a brand to belong to the slow movement? There are three indicators we, as consumers, can identify with: • • •

They have a local rather than global approach.

They are transparent about where, how and who makes their products.

They make sustainable products (made from sustainable materials using sustainable/ethical processes).

CASE STUDIES The following case studies put slow fashion as the main purpose of their existence.

They place style over trends and offer high quality garments at smaller production numbers.

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HIDE THE LABEL WEBSITE: hidethelabel.com IG: @hidethelabel

BRAND STORY For founders and siblings, Ryan and Shereen Barrett, making and creating was a huge part of their upbringing. From experimenting with sewing machines to starting a design studio, their inherent creativity and successful fashion careers have inspired them to craft a brand that challenges the ongoing issues within fast fashion.

Hide The Label has a simple philosophy - to create effortless silhouettes that transcend seasons and occasions that fit well and last longer. They create consciously-designed, timeless clothes in vivid prints made from sustainable materials.

THEIR VALUES Making a considered choice in every step of production and running of the business is a high priority. When it comes to printing techniques, they use one that requires minimal water. Their fabrics are plant-derived or made from reclaimed fibres. Furthermore, they work with small scale factories that have a lower carbon footprint. all packaging is plastic-free and made from 100% recycled paper products and biobased films. Plus, all of their packaging is fully compostable.

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Only using sustainable materials made from reclaimed fibres.

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CELTIC & CO WEBSITE: celticandco.com IG: @celticandco

BRAND STORY The story of Celtic & Co starts in 1990 when an advert in the local paper caught Nick & Kath Whitworth’s eye, offering a small boot-making business for sale. They bought it with just seven pairs in stock and taught themselves to sew them. They didn’t know at the time, but this was to be the biggest adventure of their lives – alongside bringing up their two children Mike and Clare.

Once they’d built up a local following of their Ugg style boots they registered the ‘Ugg’ trademark. This proved a good move as they later sold UK rights to the name enabling them to re-invest in the company. They then became the Celtic Sheepskin company and it was around this time that the now iconic bootee slipper was born.

Recently rebranded as Celtic & Co., the brand offers a range of high-quality clothing alongside the boots and slippers they were originally known for.

THEIR VALUES They work hard to minimise their impact on the environment by choosing natural, sustainable and organic fibres over toxic, synthetic and non-biodegradable materials. They believe that using natural fibres such as sheepskin and wool is the only sustainable fashion choice as they are renewable, hard-wearing and a pleasure to wear.

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BROOKS & SHARPE WEBSITE: brooksandsharpe.com IG: @brooksandsharpe

BRAND STORY Founded by Joel Brooks and Pamela Sharpe, Brooks & Sharpe is a shopping platform that curates and champions the very best in independent and eco-friendly luxury fashion brands. They are passionate about connecting brands/designers to a buying audience. Their customers are conscious fashion buyers looking for unique fashion pieces they won’t find on the high street, unique pieces that are produced in limited collections. They want to buy from fashion brands/designers who care about the same things - ethical and sustainable fashion but not short on style or quality.

THEIR VALUES Compared to other online curating retailers, they streamlined their shipping process which means that customers can shop from as many brands as they like but only pay one shipping cost. Furthermore, they never promote brands and designers who use real fur in any of their collections. Finally, they express their opinion on greenwashing - when corporate/bigger brands exaggerate positive contributions to ethical and sustainable fashion while distracting customers from ongoing mass production of fast fashion and appalling working conditions for people who mass manufacture these garments for them.

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Connecting conscious fashion buyers to independent and eco-friendly luxury fashion brands.

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Tabitha Bargh lighting

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SUSTAINABLE LIVING & WELLBEING

WHY SUSTAINABLE LIVING & WELLBEING Sustainable living can be such a broadly used term that some of us can get confused about what it really means. Essentially, it is about living in a way which reduces or minimises the harmful impact you as an individual or household have on our environment - across all aspects of life; from turning your house into an eco home, recycling, re-using, being mindful of waste to consuming sustainable products and food. It is about saving our planet for the sake of our children and future generations.

Brands who put sustainable living & wellbeing at the heart of their existence can be identified by: • • • • • • •

They have ambitious sustainability goals.

They emphasise reducing an environmental footprint while increasing positive social impact.

They aim to stay relevant by innovating new ways/processes.

They put great emphasis on product quality and customer loyalty.

They highlight product origin or being locally made.

They have a “green” label on the packaging.

They support positive social causes.

CASE STUDIES The following case studies highlight some of the sustainable practices modern businesses should be implementing. From reusing cardboards to make ceiling pendants (Tabitha Bargh) to using organic/natural ingredients for making skincare and wellbeing products (My Thyn), brands have a great opportunity to build customer’s trust and loyalty if they align their values with them.

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TABITHA BARGH WEBSITE: tabithabargh.co.uk IG: @tabithabargh

BRAND STORY British designer and maker Tabitha is fascinated with everyday materials and finding new and interesting ways to turn them into beautiful products. While studying Product Design at Ravensbourne College she was given a project to design a briefcase. Her first thought was to try and make it from cardboard. This project triggered her love and fascination with the material.

Since 2006, Tabitha has been designing and making a range of sustainable lighting made entirely from corrugated cardboard. All products are designed and handmade in her Sussex studio using cardboard from recycled material and FSC certified European forests.

HER VALUES Tabitha is passionate about finding creative ways of using everyday, often overlooked materials to create the unexpected. She works with clients who share the same passion for protecting the environment and minimising their environmental footprint.

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MAIK WEBSITE: maiklifestyle.com IG: @maiklifestyle

BRAND STORY Launched in 2016, MAiK is an online retailer of ethically made homeware and lifestyle products. Set up by Cat Thorogood, her mission was to start a design-led brand that made high quality products ethically from sustainable materials.

At MAiK, their priority is that manufacturing should be done responsibly, to look after the environment and the people involved. After some research, Cat has found manufacturers in the UK and Europe that share the same values and ethics like her.

The current range includes homewares, textiles and socks with new product lines being added in the near future.

THEIR VALUES MAiK pays attention to every material in their product offering. Their placemats are made in the UK by a family run factory, the materials are FSC approved and from a sustainable source. The textiles are all made from GOTS certified organic cotton, they are dyed in the UK with eco-friendly dyes and then handmade by a social enterprise in Edinburgh.

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MY THYN WEBSITE: mythyn.com IG: @mythynofficial

BRAND STORY Started by Mathilde Gauvain in 2016, MY THYN is driven by the desire to create bath, skincare and home products to feed the skin and the mind. By blending her knowledge of chemistry with herbal remedies, aromatherapy and holistic understanding of what feeds our bodies have helped Mathilde to reconnect with nature in the most authentic and creative way.

THEIR VALUES When creating products, they use the highest quality, 100% natural ingredients.

They handcraft products in small batches. Furthermore, no products are ever tested on animals, and they source raw materials from sustainable sources.

They never use synthetic colours, fragrances, toxic chemicals, petroleum derivatives and mineral oils, and unsustainable ingredients such as palm oil.

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Never made from synthetic ingredients, toxic chemicals, petroleum derivatives, mineral oils or palm oil.

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Handmade, one-ofa-kind items can be treasured and passed on to family members and friends.

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ETHOS: MADE BY HAND

WHY MADE BY HAND Historically objects made by hand have been around since the early evolution of humans. Tools and weapons made from surrounding materials were handcrafted for pure survival needs. As mankind evolved and societies were created, so did the repertoire of objects. Creativity was needed to craft sometimes very artistic objects reflecting its time, culture and language.

More recently, online shopping platforms such as Etsy and Notonthehighstreet.com have raised the profile of and contributed to an increased demand for handmade, one-of-a-kind items.

Words such as handmade or handcrafted are being thrown in brand stories and marketing campaigns, but how do we know that a product is purely crafted by hand? How do we distinguish between real handmade products and those who just simply try to jump on the bandwagon?

By definition, made by hand means: • • •

An object made pure by manual labour.

Usually, such objects are of superior quality.

Objects are long-lasting and made from high quality materials.

CASE STUDIES The following case studies showcase types of products made by hand. All three examples share their passion for craft, skilled trade and traditional methods of handmade, one-of-a-kind production. They appreciate the value of artisanship has on our planet and future generations.

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LYDIA WEAVES WEBSITE: lydiaweaves.com IG: @lydiaweaves

BRAND STORY Lydia is a woven textile creative, designing and weaving a range of fabrics for the interior. A selection of floor coverings, soft furnishings, sheer drapery and upholstery fabric have been created as a collection inspired by the colours of Kew Gardens and the geometric structures of modern architecture.

Lydia graduated from Loughborough University in 2019 after studying Textiles: Innovation & Design for four years. During her degree, she specialised in woven textiles and learnt many skills, from designing fabrics, dyeing yarn, loom dressing and, of course, weaving. Whilst at university, Lydia applied for a scholarship from the Worshipful Company of Weavers and won the prestigious Stuart Hollander Award, the top prize from the charity. At Lydia’s degree show, she not only started selling her handwoven silk cushions but also won the Loughborough University Enterprise Award. It was at this point Lydia knew she should go into business and pursue her creative career.

HER VALUES Apart from that all cushions and textiles are carefully handwoven in cotton and fine silks, Lydia is passionate about keeping the British heritage of traditional weaving skills alive.

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Lydia is passionate about keeping the British heritage of traditional weaving skills alive.

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WEALD HANDMADE WEBSITE: wealdhandmade.co.uk IG: @wealdhandmade

BRAND STORY Weald is a fashion accessories label that makes high quality leather bags using traditional techniques. Keeping a close eye on the details, integrity is hand stitched into each and every bag they make - no factories or sewing machines are used in the making. Classic, functional and long-lasting, they create timeless designs that you’ll love for a lifetime. ​ e story of Weald Handmade begins with its founder Sarah’s own fruitless search Th for the perfect bag. A maker at heart, Sarah decided there was only one thing for it: she made her own. After being repeatedly asked by friends where they could lay their hands on one, Weald was born. From her seaside base in Leigh-on-sea, England, Sarah’s creative touch flows through all stages of the making process, from design to finishing.

THEIR VALUES Sustainability is key. No leather is wasted in the production process: off-cuts are used by other designers. Their bags appeal to those consumers who value classic design and craftsmanship over fleeting fads. Weald’s designs are timeless and their ‘free repairs for life’ guarantee means they can be truly treasured and passed on to friends and family.

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EKA SCENTS

WEBSITE: ekascents.co.uk IG: @ekascents

BRAND STORY EKA, meaning “one”, “unified”, “no other” in Sanskrit, was founded by Katie Sahdev, with a mission to make it easier for people to stop and appreciate the little things in life, with customisable candles that celebrate what makes us unique.

After years working in the fashion and gifting industry, Katie was inspired by Indian influences running in her family. Highly distinct from other similar products, EKA Scents feature vibrant Eastern block printing and bold colours.

All candles are lovingly handpoured and made in the UK from 100% natural wax with a blend of carefully selected, ethically sourced essential oils.

THE VALUES They only use soy wax, which burns cleanly - with no toxins or carcinogens. They also use natural cotton for the candle wicks. Customisable option means that only what’s ordered is produced, therefore there is no wastage or leftover stock.

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AWARENESS BREATHES CHANGE Small businesses, such as the ones we featured in this annual edition, play a vital role in our economy. They bring together local communities and create employment opportunities for those who are unable to work for larger organisations.

Furthermore, they innovate and are flexible. They put a heavy emphasis on customer service and loyalty. Isn’t that what we all want from a business who serves our needs?

BUT. Statistically, 20% of business fail after the first year, 30% after two years and half of them close after five years*. There are many factors and reasons for this. One of them I keep hearing in my conversations with small business owners is lack of exposure and getting their story heard by customers who want to hear and know about them.

While barriers to entry are much lower these days, after all apparently anyone can start a business just with a phone and laptop, the downside is that there is now a fiercer competition and loads of noise. Small brands have a mountain to climb before they get noticed, if at all.

I hope that after reading these stories you are more aware of what’s out there as an alternative to the high street. Awareness breathes change.

Don’t keep it to yourself. Please spread the word. Thank you.

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BLACK BOOK INTERIORS & HOMEWARE

PIPET DESIGN

TABITHA BARGH

LYDIA WEAVES

designer textiles & accessories

eco lighting

handwoven textiles

HOUSE OF HOPSTOCK homeware & lifestyle brand

e: info@pipetdesign.com

e:info@tabithabargh.co.uk

e: lydia@lydiaweaves.com

e: studio@skinalchemists.com

w: pipetdesign.com

w: tabithabargh.co.uk

w: lydiaweaves.com

w:houseofhopstock.com

@pipetdesign

@tabithabargh

@lydiaweaves

@houseofhopstock

LIFESTYLE

British heritage lifestyle brand

BROOKS & SHARPE

CELTIC & CO

online lifestyle store

MAiK

HETTIE

independent luxury brands

sustainable lifestyle brand

e: info@maiklifestyle.com

e: hello@hettie.co.uk

e: info@brooksandsharpe.com

e:support@celticandco.com

w: maiklifestyle.com

w: hettie.co.uk

w: brooksandsharpe.com

w: celticandco.com

@maiklifestyle

@hettie

@brooksandsharpe

@celticandco

FASHION & BEAUTY

HIDE THE LABEL

WEALD HANDMADE

MY THYN

EKA SCENTS

sustainable British clothing

sustainable fashion accessories

botanical alchemy

customised scents

e: info@hidethelabel.com

e: wealdhandmade@gmail.com

e: contact@mythyn.com

e:hello@ekascents.com

w: hidethelabel.com

w: wealdhandmade.co.uk

w: mythyn.com

w: ekascents.com

@hidethelabel

@wealdhandmade

@mythynofficial

@ekascents

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“This special edition highlights some of the most talented, creative, forward-thinking and purpose-driven lifestyle brands on the UK market. I hope that by aligning our changing values we can change our shopping habits for a better future.�

Karolina Barnes - PURPOSE DRIVEN-

ESTILA MAGAZINE estila.co

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