ESTILA edit
ISSUE 36/37
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Welcome
to the issue 36/37 of ESTILA Edit!
BORN TO BUY
Last digital EDIT of 2018. What an amazing year it has been. We've grown so much and learnt so much. The concept for this edition was inspired by the notion of overconsumption and unnecessary shopping habits associated with this time of the year. We wanted to highlight an important issue of the impact we make with our careless and selfish behaviour and how harmful it is for our planet. And so, the following pages feature independent brands, businesses and individuals who are more "conscious", who trade sustainably, offer sustainable products and support charities and initiatives that make an impact in a positive way. As always, thank you so much for reading and your support! Love,
Karolina xx Karolina Barnes editor in chief
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editor's recommended reads interiors Chalk & Moss 10 Our shop spotlight this month is Chalk & Moss, a lifestyle brand that specialises in offering homeware products, connecting us to nature and wellbeing.
art From doodles to art 22 An amazing interview with the founder of Doodle Moo, a design brand and studio that is blurring the lines of graphic art for kids and grown-ups.
open up & inspire n4mummy 42 An inspirational interview with Karen Maurice, the founder of n4mummy blog which focuses on sustainable lifestyle. She talks about the trigger for making a change in the way she shops and also highlights her favourite sustainable brands.
Cover: Emilia Vespoli, p.20 4
OUR MAGAZINE
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INTERIORS
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Eclectic mix interview by Karolina Barnes, photography by Natalia Marks
Green seems to be the colour of the festive season but as Natalia Marks shows us, this hue creates a great backdrop for any time of the year and any interior. In colour psychology, green is obviously associated with nature and freshness. Green is said to be rejuvenating, as Natalia mentions, it has a calming effect and gives us hope. Here she shares her five top tips for creating a well-balanced eclectic mix interior on a budget and with a carefully planned approach.
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My five top tips 1. PICK THE RIGHT PAINT COLOUR I have chosen a dark shade of green for my walls because this colour makes me feel relaxed and white shade for the ceiling because I didn't want this room to be too dark. I think that balance is the most important thing! 2. INVEST IN A STATEMENT LIGHT I have ordered mine from @inscapedesign. I wanted something unusual vintage and in a right size so made to order light was the best option for me and that company is really able to "make your light fixture dream come true". 3. CHOOSE THE RIGHT FLOORING In this room, I have decided to leave the original wooden floorboards. A little bit of sanding and vanishing can work wonders! I have also added a rug for comfort and to brighten up the space. 4. CREATE A FOCAL POINT In my living room, the focal point is the old fireplace with a big, golden mirror (eBay bargain buy) above it. I have also put some patterned tiles in front of the fireplace to add a little bit of colour and texture. 5. HAVE FUN! That's the most important part for me. I have chosen colourful art and a statement orange chair because I believe that pop of colour can lift the mood and make any space look more inviting and interesting.
IG @MARKS_AND_ROWE_INTERIORS 9
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shop we love
Chalk & Moss interview by Karolina Barnes, photography provided by Anna Walton
What sparked the idea for Chalk & Moss? Growing up, I saw how my mood improved when spending time outdoors, particularly in the forest and mountains. So I tried bringing the outdoors in to recreate the benefit. Combine this with a love of crafts and Scandinavian design and my nature connected online shop felt like destiny when I heard about Biophilic Design. This was what I’d preached all my life without knowing there was a label! So here was my chance to improve peoples' wellbeing through natural design. I have no bricks and mortar store, so I can practise what I preach. I run the online shop location independent from wherever I am, which often means the Scandinavian wilderness (I’m a Swede in Britain), skiing in the Alps, or from our vintage caravan in a field somewhere in the British countryside. Biophilia means “love of life” and Biophilic Design, through research, recognises that humans have an innate need to connect with nature - indoors as well as out - for our wellbeing, productivity and creativity. This means bringing in plants and greenery, visuals from nature (real or perceived) and natural materials, colours and textures. Our wellbeing can improve by as much as 15% with these practices.
“Biophilia means love of life and biophilic design recognises that humans have an innate need to connect with nature for our wellbeing, productivity and creativity.” 11
What is your view on sustainability and unethical shopping habits? There’s a real throwaway culture here, which needs to change. I think charity shops actually do us a disservice, as they encourage this practice with more and more unwanted items quickly being discarded. We should instead buy things that last, moving away from seasonal purchases. Show intent and purpose in what we buy. I’m always surprised in Sweden at the amazing quality of what’s found in the very few charity shops. Swedish design often focuses on sustainable and long-lasting items, and it’s often these known brands that are found in charity shops there. Amazon and eBay also haven’t taken hold there, which may also explain why quality items are found in second hand shops. Maybe we can learn from this, to think further and keep things a little longer.
How do you help customers with Biophilic Design/products? The Chalk & Moss online shop sells homeware and lifestyle accessories that give customers a real connection to nature. All products are sustainably made in natural materials, textures and colours, and are usually handmade. Products include home textiles, ceramics, furniture, kitchen accessories, wellness products, jewellery and home fragrances. Touch, sight and smell are so important, and with Chalk & Moss products your senses touch real materials without toxins. They help blur the line between inside and outside. The brands and designer-makers I work with share this ethos, which builds a three-way triangle of trust between Chalk & Moss, partners and customers. In 2019, I’m planning to extend Chalk & Moss to offer furnishing sourcing services to interior designers and architects working on Biophilic projects, both commercial and residential.
“Swedish design often focuses on sustainable and longlasting items. Amazon and eBay haven't taken hold there, which may also explain why quality items are found in second hand shops.” 12
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What is the most popular product in your store? 1/ Eco lunch bag (As featured in Telegraph’s gift guide for the hard to buy people)
2/ Kitchen & washcloth
Both are by The Organic Company. This Danish brand makes home textiles in 100% GOTS certified organic cotton, ethically handmade in India. Their timeless design and easy to live with colours mix and match beautifully, negate any seasonal trends, and are made to last. People often come to Chalk & Moss looking for sustainable, plastic free alternatives to common household goods, like these lunch bags and cloths. The organic cotton products are breathable, washable and durable, so a great alternative to the commonplace sweaty, stinky and environmentally unfriendly versions.
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DINING ROOM SIDEBOARD, from £870.00
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Our five favourites GREEN STONE RING, £220.00
JOIN CANDLE, from £10.00 FICUS ELASTICA ART PRINT, £25.00
CANVAS SHOPPER BAG, £19.50
EXTRA LARGE KITCHEN TOWEL, £15.00
CHALKANDMOSS.COM | IG @CHALKANDMOSS 17
Winter table
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Restarting a tradition words and photography by Karolina Barnes
Restarting a tradition, Mallon Linen focuses on growing and manufacturing luxury flax linen. The material is harvested, dried on the sun and handwoven in Northern Ireland, keeping production local to the area. The business started as a foundry (Mallon Foundry) but they recently diversified into growing flax for fibre at their farm in the north of Ireland, researching extensively how to do this in a way that is sustainable both environmentally and financially. Linen was a huge industry in the area but declined very rapidly post-war to the point where little or no flax is grown or even spun in Ireland. Mallon hopes to demonstrate that the model of small cottage industry can be revived. Linen napkins These napkins are made from 'Roe' linen and have mitred corners and triple stitching. They come in an acid-free museum quality box for a long - term, safe storage. Price for set of 8, ÂŁ280. Gorse Ring The rings are cast in bronze, using the ancient lost wax process. A local gorse bark was used for the pattern, one of nine trees which were sacred to the Celts. It symbolised fortune and fertility. Size 45mm diameter. Price ÂŁ50.
MALLONLINEN.COM | IG @MALLONLINEN 19
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COVER STORY
Born to Buy words and collage art by Emilia Vespoli
Her love of shopping is evident with shopping bags dangling from her ears. She feels no shame as she satisfies her hunger for inanimate objects that make her feel alive. However, she is not impervious to the damaging effects to the Earth that overconsumption brings, as seen through her eyeglasses. She sits, behind bars feeling trapped, as she knows there is a price to pay for this uncontrolled consumption. There is a burning forest behind her…and dying flowers trying desperately to escape the chaos.
“Surely we have a responsibility to leave for future generations a planet that is healthy and habitable by all species.” Sir David Attenborough
FOLLOW EMILIA AT VIA SAN VITO FOR MORE INSPIRATION 21
ART
Fierce jaguar art print, from ÂŁ18
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From doodles to art interview by Karolina Barnes, photography and images by Emily Canino
Spreading happy vibes and inspiring kids and grown-ups to be even more creative is the mission of Doodlemoo, a creative studio run by Emily Canino and her partner Chris. They both believe that living a creative life is a happy life. Blending their skills in graphic design, fine illustration and typography, their artwork and products are not only vibrant, bold and colourful, but also fair trade and printed on beautiful conservation paper, ensuring that forests are looked after.
ALOHA Tropical art print, from ÂŁ19 23
When did you realise you have a passion for art? Ever since I can remember I've loved art, I grew up drawing and painting! My parents didn’t come from a ‘creative’ background but I remember they made me an area in my room where I had lots of space to draw on the walls and they really encouraged me to be free with my creativity. When I was five, I attended an art class for kids where I would spend hours modelling clay and making new things. My mum used to ask me to make greeting cards for the whole family (I didn’t always want to!) and at the age of 12 I had a painting tutor to explore oil painting. What I loved most and spent a lot of time doing was making and designing characters. I went on to study foundation Art at Chelsea College of Art and then did a BA in illustration in Venezuela. Later on again back here in the UK, I studied Typography Design and completed my MA in Design Studies at Central St Martins. My husband also studied Fine Art so creativity in our family is very important, we are always going to art exhibitions to see installations, sculpture and graphic art.
How would you describe your style in your work and life? My style is bold, playful, stylish and a bit quirky. I would love to be minimalist but in reality, I’m more like a maximalist! I am a bit of a contradiction at times, I love happy and fresh colours but I also like using black! We papered one of my walls at home with black wallpaper with beautiful pink and blue graphic flowers; we’ve had it for years but never get tired of it, it’s quite bold. I also love to blur the lines between being a child and an adult and try to reflect it in my work. I really like it that some of my prints appeal to both kids and grown-ups and can work in any modern room. So my life and work I guess are quite similar, but I think that’s a good thing. I adore playful jewellery and some people have described my dress sense before as more like a girl (whatever that means!).
“I really like that some of my prints appeal to both, kids and grown-ups, and can work in any modern room.” 24
Kiss Me Wild art print, from ÂŁ19 25
How important are colour and pattern in your work? Colour and pattern are so important to me. I tend to use bold colours in everything I do. Growing up in South America had a massive influence on me, I still miss the blue skies and tropical colours. Whenever we went to the street markets, we were surrounded by the most amazing bright and varied colours with all the fruits, vegetables and clothes. So one of the most important things I aim to achieve when printing is vivid and vibrant colours, and for this reason, I invested in a top range large format Giclee printer to produce my work on. I get really happy when people say the prints look even better in real life because that’s what I’m trying to achieve.
What is the process you take when creating a new artwork? When I want to create something new I usually start by thinking about a subject or theme. Once I have something in mind I start to doodle lots of ideas (my house is full of papers and sketchbooks with little doodles!) and select a few of the ones I like and develop them into a final piece. After this, I work on the colours and possible combinations then rework them digitally in Illustrator to give them the illustrative and graphic feel that I’m after. I sometimes have the tendency to overthink things too much so I like to test new designs with my Instagram community or friends. Some of my prints also come out of commissions; my cousin asked if I could design a TE AMO print for her anniversary (Te Amo means ‘I love you’ in Spanish but it’s like “forever" love, as we have another word for simply 'I love you’ which is 'Te Quiero’ - that's for everyone else like family and friends). So I designed this print, tried a couple of colour combinations and she loved it. That was just before Valentine's Day so I showed it to my followers on Instagram and asked if they would like to see it as a print to purchase, and it has ended up being one of my most popular prints! I even had a lady asking for it in Italian (Ti Amo). Basically, all my designs and ideas come from doodles and sketching, hence my brand name. Doodling is a true form of creativity where you can try things out really quickly and move on if they don’t work. During the process, all sorts of things pop into your head and I am also always on the lookout for inspiration while I’m out and about or visiting new places.
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Wild Thing art print, from ÂŁ19
Love Struck art print, from ÂŁ10
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“I've always been into Manga and Japanese graphic art with its solid bold colours and playful imagery.”
Where do you find your inspiration? Have you got mentors or other artists you look up to? The inspiration for me comes from anywhere and at any time, so it’s hard to put my finger on any one source. Inspiration doesn’t just happen if I sit at my desk and wait. Sometimes I really need time away from my studio (even though I love it) and go out to find something new. The artists I love are: Joan Miro for his playful use of colour and simple shapes; David Shrigley is just so funny and his work also has a wonderful simplicity with images and words that make you smile every time! Keith Haring’s super playful and fun imagery just makes me want to draw and I adore Yoshitomo Nara and all the cute but strange characters and figures he comes up with. I’ve always been into Manga and Japanese graphic art with its solid bold colours and playful imagery. I’m dying to go to Japan but I also love London as there’s so much going on, whether it's art and design exhibitions, installations or pop ups. There’s just so much creativity to soak up and more importantly, it is truly valued. As far as graphic designers that I admire there are so many. Anthony Burril and Frost design to name just a few and I also look to graphic artists like Camille Walala. Finally, I find that my boys also inspire me in many ways. For kids everything is exciting and they are just so good at experimenting. After all, they are the reason I first turned my designs into a business!
DOODLEMOO.COM | @DOODLEMOO
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FASHION brand story uncovered 30
BROOKS & SHARPE interview by Karolina Barnes, photography provided by Pamela Sharpe
Founded by Pamela Sharpe, Brooks & Sharpe is a new shopping destination that carefully curates independent ethical and sustainable luxury brands. All brands and designers are small independent brands with amazing stories behind their work, helping the environment one stylish garment at a time. In this interview, Pamela talks about the concept and idea for Brooks & Sharpe, her challenges, how she copes with setbacks and what future plans she has for her business.
Gung Ho
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What has been your journey so far? I come from an entrepreneur background and have been working for myself for the last 9+ years. I set out to work for myself after having my son and found it hard finding a job in my field of work - sales & marketing. The hours on offer were not child-friendly and this field of work rarely had any part time vacancies or the pay with childcare costs did not make any sense. I have over 3 years experience in the fashion industry.
Can you take us back to the time when you decided to set up Brooks & Sharpe? I have been in the fashion industry for over 3 years now. I set up my first fashion brand with just under ÂŁ1000 in capital. While that business took off and I made a decent income from it, I was not happy with the ethos, I was not happy with the product and the style of clothing was not something I would wear - it was cheap fast fashion geared towards a younger crowd. So I got together with a good friend of mine and we set on re-branding the business - producing limited collections that were locally made in the UK and advocating strong business ethos. However, we found it a challenge to fit into a market that was swamped with cheaper fast fashion. That's when we had an idea! What if we created a platform that curated like-minded brands/designers - ethical, independent and sustainable luxury fashion minus the premium price tag, without compromising on style or quality? And mostly, without the extortionate commission fees. That way, customers looking for something different could find all these amazing fashion brands/designers in one place - and here we are!
What is the concept? What is different about it? Brooks & Sharpe is a shopping platform that connects brands/designers to a buying audience. Our customers are conscious fashion buyers looking for unique fashion pieces they won't find on the high street, unique pieces that are produced in limited collections. They want to buy from fashion brands/designers who care about the same things - ethical and sustainable fashion but not short on style or quality.
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We are working with small, independent brands/designers and we know first hand the challenges of establishing a brand and standing out - we do not charge joining or monthly fees, there are no hidden fees and no conditions attached to being promoted. All our brands/designers are equally marketed at our expense. Our platform promotes all brands/designers and handles customer care on their behalf - our platform is also working on some exciting marketing plans that will give our platform and brands/designers more coverage and reach a bigger buying audience. All will be revealed soon!
What has been your biggest challenge so far and how did you overcome it in terms of your business? There have been a number of challenges along the way and I have grown and learnt so much in the last few years. The biggest challenge was raising funds for the platform - it was challenging trying to communicate the idea of the platform, how it works and mostly how it would make any money when there was no product or website to show. There has been A LOT of 'NOs' and many despairing moments. However, I did not let those moments derail me from the bigger picture as I was very passionate about the idea and growing it into a business, so we bootstrapped it until we could secure funding. Today, we have 14 amazing brands on the platform with a few more brands being vetted. We are also working on some exciting features on our platform and expanding our marketing efforts - we are very excited for 2019!
How do you cope with setbacks? I used to be very bad at dealing with setbacks. I am a perfectionist who likes to work to a set plan, things are done a certain way and to a certain standard. This is a very difficult way to live, as you can imagine! When something 'not in the plan' would happen, I would be thrown off course and would be enormously stressed out. Now, I have a more relaxed approach and put a positive spin to every setback. For example, if a deal doesn't pan out or something throws a spanner in the works, I look at it as something that was probably not meant for me or the business and something better is on the horizon - everything happens for a reason kind of approach. I incorporate this approach in my personal life as well. My business plan A always has a back plan all the way down to plan Z! 36
“I did not let those moments derail me from the bigger picture as I was very passionate about the idea and growing it into a business.� Where do you see yourself in 5 years time? In 5 years time, I would love to see Brooks & Sharpe as one of the biggest e-tailer platforms. As a brand, we will keep evolving and introducing new features and growing our brands/designer list. We also hope to offer more than fashion and expand our categories in the future.
BROOKSANDSHARPE.COM| @BROOKSANDSHARPE 37
BEAUTY
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Calm it down words, styling and photography by Karolina Barnes
Regain your balance with these two independent brands we discovered: Spritz Wellness London Founded by Laura Colucci, Spritz Wellness is a holistic company that incorporates a lifestyle of wellness, healthy eating, yoga and living with purpose. Laura is a mother of two boys and has lived in London for the past decade, having moved over from her native Canada in 2006. She has a background in marketing and is also a trained yoga teacher. The inspiration for her products comes from a combination of yoga, nature and the sea. She's passionate about sustainability and that's why all product packaging is made from glass or can be reused or recycled. As a company, they regularly partake in beach cleans to keep the coastlines of Britain clean and safe. A portion of proceeds from products sold is donated to Surfers Against Sewage. The products are carefully created and designed to stimulate the senses, calm the mind or energise the soul. I personally have been using the SLEEP mist every night before going to bed. I even take it with me on my travels. It calms me down thanks to lavender, mandarin and chamomile which noticeably come through. Available at spritzwellness.com Nathalie Bond Nathalie Bond started her skincare business after having her first son. She became more aware of the amount of chemicals we put on our face (women apply 168 chemicals on their skin every day!) and decided to focus on simple skincare that only contains natural cold pressed oils that are gentle, super nourishing and sustainably sourced. The product range offers four steps to essential daily beauty regime - cleanse, exfoliate, nourish and relax. And as a sustainable business, their packaging is recyclable. Plus, when you buy from Nathalie Bond, a proportion of their profits is dedicated for children living in poverty across the globe. Available at nathaliebond.com 39
Less is more words by Karen J. Gerrard founder SEAMS Hand Cream
Christmas tis the season of goodwill and gifts, but you don’t have to go over the top tapping away to the Christmas tune shopping on the internet, make it more personal here are ways to spread the goodwill far out from your circle of friends and family. Support independent brands The biggest struggle is finding smaller brands through the big brand advertising, the Facebook group My Best Product Ever gives a voice to those under the radar. Give a gift of something unique, Etsy sells one of a kind gifts for every member of the family ranging from beauty products, handcrafted items to clothes and furniture. Spread the light Candles are always a beautiful gift, Jo Malone has a charity home candle giving 75% of the retail value to good causes, and Thomas Street has a special edition at Save The Children online. Wrap it up It takes seconds to open a gift yet the wrapping ends up in a landfill for years! At Lush you can wrap your gift in a reusable scarf, get creative at home wrap in newspaper, or buy biodegradable wrapping paper made from recycled paper products and sustainable materials. Be kind to the planet What’s on the inside is as important as what on the outside buy recycled products. Chloe Haywood London has cashmere hats at a third of the price made from waste cashmere. Go to a website specialising in environmentally friendly products such as TraidCraft.co.uk The beauty of Christmas Buy products made with fair trade ingredients, not tested on animals and certified organic. The Body Shop has a great range of vegan hair heroes.
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Spread the love Crafty with your hands, give a handmade gift made with love. Use leftover materials such as cards and old clothes you have at home. Give a helping hand Do a good deed and volunteer at a soup kitchen, redecorate community centres, donate toys, visit the elderly. Write it Pick up a pen (if you can find one!). A thoughtful handwritten note with words from the heart is like giving a little piece of yourself. One of my favourite gifts I’ve been given is a photograph in a glass frame with personal words on the back of the picture. The best things in life are free Give a sentiment something money can’t buy wrap up, a treasured item that is your own. Ba Humbug Anti-Christmas? Know someone who doesn’t think Christmas is the most wonderful time of the year! Buy them the t-shirt.. Want to avoid Christmas altogether? Many travel companies will offer large discounts for late bookings, you can just hop on a plane at the drop of a Christmas hat!
“Buy products with fairtrade ingredients, not tested on animals and certified organic.”
FIND MORE TIPS ON SEAMSBEAUTY.CO.UK 41
Living the sustainable life
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“open up & inspire”
Karen Maurice interview by Karolina Barnes, images by Karen Maurice
After giving birth to her daughter, Karen Maurice started to question the impact of fast fashion on the environment and on the future generations. Her background in fast fashion gave her an insight into the practices some big high street retailers engage in. This was enough for her to stop and think more about where and how items of clothing are made. Karen changed her attitude to shopping and consumption with a more considered approach. She started documenting her journey to more sustainable living through her blog n4mummy.com and in this interview, she shares the changes she's made so far and the challenges that she faces in order to be more sustainable.
1. What made you question the impact of fast fashion on our environment? What was the trigger? I used to work as a buyer for several different fast fashion UK high street stores. My job involved travelling to visit factories in places such as China and Bangladesh. Some of the poverty I witnessed in Bangladesh was heartbreaking. But also in China, the pollution is terrible, you can just see the black smoke around the areas where the factories are. This, I guess, was the trigger and then as I began to read more about some of the issues I was convinced something needed to change.
“While visiting factories in China and Bangladesh, I witnessed poverty and bad pollution. This was the trigger for me to make a change.” 43
2. You’ve been trying to convert and change the way you buy and consume products as part of your journey. What do you find most challenging? What are the most common barriers? Price, price and price! It's also the thing that all my readers are always saying to me. Buying ethical clothing that is made in a way that is kind to our planet is more expensive, but it is made even more so by the fact that most companies producing in this way are small scale, so naturally, items are more expensive as they don't have the buying power. I do think we need to change our buying habits and be content with less. But as a friend recently pointed out, if she bought one ethical jumper that would be her family's (of 5) clothing budget for 6 months, and with rapidly growing children that is a challenge.
3. What changes have you made so far which anyone can do/switch to? I always look at second hand clothing first for the children and particularly for presents for other kids. This is a great way to persuade my friends that you can get some amazing high-quality garments that are pre-loved. For me, I've become much more considered about what I buy. I always check in my wardrobe first to see if I already own something that does the same job. I also have to check my motivations for buying clothes. So often it can be because I'd had a hard day with the kids and I think it will make me happy, which it obviously doesn't! I've also started to browse second hand clothing websites to see if I can pick something up.
4. Have you got any favourite brands you can recommend to check out? I love People Tree particularly their season collaborations with the V&A. Also, Mi Apparel is a new online boutique launched this year that sell really fun, contemporary garments from brands that can be hard to get in the UK. Dilli Grey has some gorgeous holiday pieces as well as great homeware. Yatay does the most beautiful comfy trainers in a whole host of colours and AmaElla has beautiful nightwear and lingerie. For the kids, I adore Little Green Radicals and Tootsa McGinty.
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Skirt by Dilli Grey
“I've become much more considered about what I buy. I always check my wardrobe first to see if I already own something that does the same job.” N4MUMMY.COM | @N4MUMMY 45
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ESTILA BOOKAZINE editor in chief
Karolina Barnes fashion editor
Flavia Young @ Luxe Layers beauty editors
Nicola McCullough @ StrawberryBlonde Beauty Karla Cihak food editor
Ellen Stanton @ Pale Blue Plate Sophie Barnes design editor
Emilia Vespoli @ ViaSanVito travel editor
Jenny Kakoudakis @ Seasons in Colour Sabrina Chakici @ clutchandcarryon
“Be confident in your capabilities.�
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