Highsnobiety Magazine 02 - Summer 2011 by HIGHSNOBIETY

preface

July 2010 we released our first venture into print - Highsnobiety print Issue 1. As much as we love the web, it is just a great feeling of accomplishment holding a finished product in your hand. While our first issue was still very experimental, we started working on the new one already in September 2010, due to all the great feedback that we received. Thanks again for that. As you go through the following pages you will notice that Highsnobiety print takes a more professional shape. Not only do we have numerous Highsnobiety Print exclusive photo editorials from around the globe in the issue, but also a series of interesting upcoming product announcements, interviews, art/illustration presentations and of course once again the Berlin storeguide.

A lot of work also went into the cover. Our Creative Director Robert Wunsch produced a â&#x20AC;&#x153;not at all authorizedâ&#x20AC;? photo shoot with Lupe Fiasco at MoMA New York and artist Eric Elms was kind enough to illustrate the cover and the Lupe Fiasco vs. Eric Elms article pages for us. A major thanks goes out to the Hatch Berlin design agency, which has turned our print magazine into a very organized, clean and just overall professional looking title. We can safely say that we are proud of our new identity offline. Enough talking now. Flip through the pages, enjoy the shoots and articles and let us know your thoughts. Only like that we can get better and that is our constant goal!

All the best, David Fischer

con t en t

018

038

coast to coast

the snob

look

076

090

mykita

three josh ua trees

read |

014

058

104

rapha

reverse mullet

bespoken

031

skateistan |

033

062

lupe fiasco vs. eric elms |

070

k1x sierra leone dcac pack

ursus bape

037

084

fries & zumbĂźhl

he wears it

089

051

sixpack france meets brendan monroe |

055

living mutants

filles Ă papa forever |

098

made space |

110

band of outsiders |

114

onitsuka tiger x shuhei numata |

126

wesc spring footwear |

128

raw |

130

the hundreds

100

keine musik

H I g hsnobie t y

116

132

sweet wasabi

the golden standard

contributors Winter 2011 / Issue # 2

Hendrik Lakeberg Hendrik Lakeberg is editor at Intersection Germany, Anorak Germany and Fräulein. For De:Bug Magazine he writes the column “Durch die Nacht mit” and contributes to various other publications about art, music and fashion. Page 58 www.off-ones-rocker.de

Peyman farahani

taste |

pointer x cdg

undefeated x gourmet

clot x deluxe

108

clarks x concepts

missoni x converse

eastpak x yurkievich

schott x converse

arc‘teryx veilance

142

staple meets plus 41

chuck taylor all star

g-shock x alife

adidas x snoop dogg

144

storeguide

prin t iss u e 2

mika a maro

alex flach

140

pointer x wood wood

Peyman was longtime music editor for Electronic Beats. Wrote for Freestyle Magazine and Bang Bang. Lived and worked in L.A. as freelance correspondent for Colorstorm Media. Got sick of traffic jams. Now back in Berlin and on board with Highsnobiety.

www.alexflach.de

daniella midenge

143

g-shock x dgk

146

Alex Flach was born and raised in Berlin. Ever since the mid 90s he has been documenting his experiences and travels with his camera and became Lodown Magazine photo editor in 1998. Primarily working in the fields of art, fashion and skateboarding, he counts lots of renowned brands as his clients. Page 76

www.midenge.com

Daniella Midenge´s signature photographs are graced with amazon-looking, strong and beautiful women shot in a sensual way. Midenge is born and raised in the woods of Sweden in an artistic family and recently relocated to Berlin after spending most of her time travelling. Having shot for two years only her clients include GQ and Marie-Claire. Page 38

imprint

POINtER | COMME DES gARCONS

Pointer x Comme des Garรงons

Text DAVID FISCher

Footwear brand Pointer has come a long way in recent years, starting with only a couple of canvas based sneaker styles, their collection has grown into a full offering, ranging from sneakers to casual footwear and boots. Most impressive to us was for sure their diverse growth into different markets and categories. What do we mean by that? today you will find Pointer in most Carhartt Streetwear stores around the globe, while also at Dover Street Market and Comme des garรงons stores. We preview their latest collaboration with the Comme des garรงons SHIRt division. The Japanese brand as usual chooses two more classic and staple styles of the brand, just like we are used to seeing from them, and it is more about the details and the second look than a bold statement. In its second season, the collaboration once again spans over a series of different footwear styles and colorways. Look for the Spring/Summer 2011 shoes to get to retailers in the coming months. http://www.pointerfootwear.com 8

H Ig H S NOB I E tY

CLARkS | CONCEPtS

clarks x concepts

Text JeFF CArVALho Photography FrAnk The BuTCher

For those familiar with the shoe game in the united States, the name Concepts will not be too far off. For those unfamiliar, Concepts has long been a Harvard Square destination. Opened in 1996 as part of The tAnnERY shoe store, Concepts came into its own as a stand-alone shop just around the corner in 2007. They deliver a preimum shopping experience for anyone looking for hard to find shoes and sneakers. CONCEPtS is best known for their outstanding collection of collaborations with the likes of Sorel, Nike, Canada goose and others.

the incredibly popular Weaver models that sold out as quickly as Concepts received them.

Here, we preview one of the four colorways of their forthcoming Spring 2011 Clarks Aschott for Concepts edition. The Clarks Ashcott for Concepts is a shoe made for walking the streets of Boston and Cambridge - as well as your home town. Available in Spring 2011, the Aschott for Concepts continues the shopâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s strong history of Clarks collaborations - including Wallabees and

The truth is Concepts has been a Boston and Cambridge stop for more than a decade. The history of the shop continues today with a strong history of collaborations that is difficult to replicate. Shoe after shoe, Concepts delivers a premium product. Be sure to visit them in Harvard Square in Cambridge next time you come to Boston.

http://www.clarks.com

PRINt ISSuE 2

What makes this Aschott special for Concepts? The Olive canvas shoe is trimmed with vegetable tanned leather and is completely leather lined. This is perfect for those looking to wear the Aschott in the Summer without socks. They also added in metal eyelets and a gusseted tongue. It, of course, also features the Clarks natural crepe sole which promises to feel as good after months of wear as it does on day one.

http://www.cncpts.com

POINtER | WOOD WOOD

pointer by wood wood

Text DAVID FISCher

This spring, heritage inspired footwear brand Pointer and Danish designers Wood Wood present a collaboration. The low top classic inspired shoe comes in two bold color options - purple and racing green. Wood Wood’s intention of the project was to work with a traditional inspired style and give it a fresh twist. The Pointer Cargo is just that, a simple and sophisticated lace-up shoe with a stitch-down construction. Coming in suede, the Pointer by Wood Wood shoe attains its special character not only by its vibrant colors but also through the perforations on the vamp that are a reference to both brogues and moccasins. The crepe outer soles and multiple color laces that come with every shoe are nice design details that separate this collaborative version further from the in-line Pointer shoe. The shoes are hand-made in Portugal and will be released February 2011 at Wood Wood Stores and at Frontline Shop. http://www.pointerfootwear.com http://www.woodwood.dk

H Ig H S NOB I E tY

StAPLE | PLuS 41

staple Meets PlUs 41 Text DAVID FISCher

As part of the Staple Summer 2010 Collection, the American brand has commissioned Swiss design agency Plus 41 (+41) to design a capsule collection of t-shirts. until a while ago the Swiss agency operated their very own clothing label under the +41 name and are thus not new to the garment game, also having collaborated in recent years with Nike and other big players. The outcome is a rock solid t-shirt offering, spanning over different graphic styles, while not losing the distinct Plus 41 signature. Look out for these in stores June 2011. http://www.stapledesign.com http://www.plus41.ch

PRINt ISSuE 2

ADIDAS | SNOOP DOgg

adidas x snoop dogg

Text PeTe WILLIAmS Photography DAnIeL reITer

This season, adidas Originals gets together with ubiquitous American rapper Snoop Dogg for a collaborative sneaker. Done up in premium black leather, with LA Lakers purple and gold suede accents, these shoes are a testament to Snoopâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s distinct West Coast style. And in case anyone doubts your allegiance to the D-O-double-g - simply pointthem to the eyes on the tongue. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;re lifted straight from the Doggystyle cover art. http://www.adidas.com/originals

H Ig H S NOB I E tY

gOuRMEt | uNDEFEAtED

undefeated x gourmet

Text DAVID FISCher

For the third time LA footwear brand gourmet and LA retailer undefeated get together. After already presenting a collaborative version of the low top Cinque silhouette last season, the two decided to stick with the model and offer it for Spring 2011 in a varsity red/grey colorway, a classic color combo in the sneaker game. Branding is kept very simple, with logos only appearing on the footbed. Look out for a release in the coming months.

http://www.gourmetinyourface.com http://www.undftd.com

PRINt ISSuE 2

RAPHA

Rapha

a cyclist diary

rapha

Text & Photography Jeremy Dunn

hen we went to Los Angeles with ambitions to shoot the new Spring/ Summer 2011 catalog we really had no expectations. Or locations. Or permits to shoot anywhere in the city. But, we made the best of it by utilizing our de-facto host/ models Ben and Cole. They know the city like no other and found some amazing spots for us to shoot our new gear. Our marketing director brought the new collection with him on the plane. He was stopped for a few brief moments (three days) by customs, but after we cleared up that little error it was new clothes for days. The new collection has all the flavor that we have brought to the table year after year, but some of the new pieces, especially in our collaborations with Paul Smith, for our casual line really stand out.

Henleys, polo shirts, colors you would never expect from a company that started as a “cycling apparel manufacturer.” This is going to be the most exciting year yet. And we haven‘t even begun to talk about the cycling clothing. The other great thing about this new catalog shoot was that it was my first time “on set” with our renowned photographer Ben Ingham. He has provided Rapha with the look and feel from the very first days of the company and continues to enthrall with every shot he takes. It should be noted that these photographs are not Ingham‘s at all but my own polite musings as we set up every day. They could never even come close to the genius he portrays with his camera.

http://www.rapha.cc

K1X 2011 SPRING / SUMMER

Photography Robert Wunsch Production Tom Gabrea Photography Assistance Sebastian von Brauchitsch

www.k1x.com

Charles Oakley NBA Legend

Michael Milton Venice Beach Baller

A.J. Thomas L.A. Streetballer

Darrius Batts L.A. Streetballer

Michael Milton Venice Beach Baller

Nick Ansom Venice Beach League

Wyclef NYC Streetball Legend

Sidney Faison been there, done that

missoni for con v erse

Text Pete Williams Photography Robert Wunsch

Missoni for Converse Chuck Taylor All Star

In 2010, Converse and Italian luxury brand Missoni debuted a series of Chuck Taylor All Star sneakers, to great fanfare. Blending such a classic footwear silhouette with Missoniâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s iconic patterns was a recipe for instant success. Throw in some rich, butter soft leather and you have a certified winner. Great news! Converse and Missoni are releasing two fresh Chuck Taylor colorways for Spring 2011, this time mating brilliantly colored patterns with black and white leather accents. Theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;ll be available only through top tier Converse retailers and Missoni flagship stores.

http://www.converse.com http://www.missoni.com

H I g hsnobie t y

scho t t for con v erse

Text Pete Williams Photography Robert Wunsch

Deeply rooted in American culture, the Converse Chuck Taylor All Star shoe and Schott NYC leather jacket have long been representative of individualism, rebellion, and rock and roll. This spring, Converse fuses the iconic Chuck Taylor All Star with Schott‘s famous “Perfecto” motorcycle jacket, resulting in a beautiful white leather sneaker, complete with heavy-duty zipper detailing, quilted lining and discreetly placed co-branding. As part of Converse‘s high-level First String product program, the Schott for Converse Chuck Taylor sneakers will be available at select retailers for April 2011. $150 USD. http://www.converse.com http://www.schottnyc.com

prin t iss u e 2

schott for Converse Leather Jacket Chuck Taylor

All Star in white

con v erse

Text Pete Williams Photography Robert Wunsch

Chuck Taylor All Star Premium

This spring, Converse debuts a range of premium Chuck Taylor All Star sneakers in gorgeous burnished leather. Subtle details such as waxed laces, washed canvas flag lining and split leather sockliners give each shoe a wonderful vintage American look. If you like these, the Chuck Taylor Premium collection also includes linen and mesh versions for the summer. http://www.converse.com

H I g hsnobie t y

Skateistan

To Live and Skate in Kabul

Skateboarding is not a crime. A phrase proven to be true long ago. Today even moreso, thanks to such skate superstars as Tony Hawk, who stand up for skate parks to help kids ”learn, grow, and find a sense of identity through skateboarding” in impoverished areas such as South L.A.’s Watts district. A deck with two trucks and four wheels has become a symbol for hope. In this spirit, an independent non-profit organization based in Kabul, subsidized and aided internationally, has dared to try the impossible (and truly succeed): ”Skateistan is Afghanistan’s – and the world’s – first co-educational skateboarding school.” Quite similar to Tony Hawk’s vision, the organization aims to engage urban and internally displaced youth in war-ravaged Afghanistan through skateboarding, and not only to get them to ”communicate with each other and build relationships with each other.” But, says the NGO, also to provide the students from diverse ethnic and socioeconomic backgrounds with new opportunities in cross-cultural interaction, education (e.g. health habits, civic responsibility, IT, the arts, and languages), and personal empowerment. Skateistan initiated their commitment to the Central Asian Islamic Republic in 2007, holding regular skate sessions encouraging boys and girls to skate the streets. Skateboarding has since become the first sport in Afghanistan that allows girls and boys to practice prin t iss u e 2

together in public. In 2009, the organization realized the construction of an 1800 square meter indoor-skatepark in the heart of the capital. In the same year, the first Go Skateboarding Day (GSD) event was held in Kabul. And these are just the beginnings of a strong and, hopefully, long-lasting endeavor.

Text Peyman Farahani Photography Uggi Kaldan

A feature-length documentary, “Skateistan: Four Wheels and a Board in Kabul”, will premiere worldwide in 2011. Until then, you can check out skateistan.org where you can support the project by making a donation or purchasing merchandise such as Afghan scarves detailed with small Skateistan tags. The proceeds for each purchase will go directly to supporting the project in Kabul. Also, be sure to watch “Skateistan: To Live and Skate in Kabul”, a beautifully shot 10 minute documentary that gives a clear idea of what Skateistan is all about - volunteers from all over the world helping a very young, very lost population find a sense of identity. – Remember the phrase, ”Sometime they’ll give a war and nobody will come”? That‘s because everyone is skateboarding! http://skateistan.org/

MIkA AMARO

Style means more than good looks. It defines the individual, or even collective, mode of expression or manner of doing something. Everyone is talking about style one way or another. german bicycle manufacturer Mika Amaro talks about ”bikestyle”. The singlespeed bikes designed by Mika Amaro are thrilling and full of elegance, and could even be considered individually crafted fashion objects. Last year, the manufacturer started with a strictly limited collection, producing only 111 individually numbered bikes. Text PeymAn FArAhAnI

Design Bikes ”Light [handmade] frames painted in high gloss, an exclusive spoke-lacing pattern on the 28-inch wheels, the finest materials (including leather, stainless steel and aluminum) and perfect workmanship put the finishing touches on these urban bikes.” The current collection will still be available in 2011, while supplies last. Mika Amaro promises a new range of colors for Spring/Summer. Though the specific colors are still a secret, one thing is for sure: the bikes will remain limited and indivually numbered. http://www.mika-amaro.com

H Ig H S NOB I E tY

k 1 x sierra leone dcac pac k

K1X

SIERRA LEONE DCAC PACK

erman basketball brand K1X was definitely a trail blazing player in turning basketball into lifestyle. Now K1Xclusive looks to propel basketball lifestyle into the high end streetwear sector launched in order to target selected premium shops as well as trend setting and taste making consumers, promising only the finest in K1X footwear, apparel and accessories. As part of the K1Xclusive line the brand presents the great Sierra Leone DCAC Pack for Spring/Summer 2011. Even K1X already has a history of Sierra Leone inspired projects, starting in 2003, when the brand re-focused on footwear, they created their very first collection around the basketball culture and peoples of Freetown, Sierra Leone.

prin t iss u e 2

The Sierra Leone DCAC Pack was born when Mallence Bart-Williams, a friend of the K1X family, visited the Big Market on Malama Thomas Street in Freetown, where traditional Ankara fabrics are sold right next to fresh fish, pork feet and Hello Kitty paraphernalia. From these very same Ankara fabrics, 22 different were handpicked and shipped to Thailand where a small family owned footwear manufactory went about creating 330 handmade DCAC pairs. Mallence Bart-Williams is the driving force behind the *folorunsho design project, which remixes original African materials and techniques with western design. All these products are non-profit oriented, as all winnings reimburse the Sierra di Lion Sharity Trust, which

Text Katrein Baumeister Photography Julia Schoierer

www.k1x.com

directly pays the local youngsters, that actually design and manufacture many of the *folorunsho pieces. It must be emphasised that the Trust is not about charity, it is all about sharing. So the underlying concept of every project is always a two-way exchange. The SL - DCAC Pack is a product of such an exchange: the synergy of three continents, uniting African tradition, European know-how and Asian skills. The Sierra Leone Pack consists of 22 different sneaker styles as well as 22 different 59/50 caps, adding just a tad of the same Ankara fabric to an otherwise black lid, some of which match selected DCAC SL shoes exactly. Everything will be available Spring 2011 at selected retail stores only.

adidas x por t er

Text Pete Williams Photography Daniel Reiter

Japanese label Porter, best known for their nylon bags and luggage, refreshes their relationship with adidas for Spring 2011. As in the past (having first worked together in 2009) adidas Originals and Porter mate key elements from Porterâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s MA-1 flight jacket inspired Tanker series - namely the nylon outer and orange lining - with a pair of zip-in adidas Superstar sneakers, a pouch-laden jacket, and an oversized waist bag. The resulting package represents each company well, while at the same time offering an attractive, premium, utilitarian package.

adidas Originals x Porter

http://www.adidas.com/originals

CLoT

X deluxe

an Interview with edison Chen and kevin Poon

Text PeTe WILLIAmS Lifestyle Photography hArLIm @ gLAm:FAB

Set for release in the first quarter of 2011, Hong kong label CLOt has teamed with Japanese “street tailor” Deluxe on the collaborative Silk Western Shirt seen here. In light of the upcoming project, we spoke with CLOt‘s kevin Poon (Managing Director) and Edison Chen (Creative Director) to learn more about the product and the story behind it.

Tell us about the Deluxe x CLoT collaboration. kP: We have been carrying Deluxe at our shop for about two seasons now and we love Deluxe and the whole company, Bedwin included. [Ed.: Japanese brand Bedwin operates under the same roof as Deluxe] We wanted to do something that can bring the brands together closer, and I think we both took what was the key to the company and put it in a cross over. What did you want to achieve with the Deluxe product aesthetically? EC: I wanted to make the down low Deluxe feeling to it and they delivered it perfectly. It has subtle tones of a classic western shirt, but when you look closely at the detailing you can see the CLOt twang on it. Super perfect for Deluxe as they are dubbed the Street tailor and to see the CLOt effect you have to look deep into the detailing. kP: We picked our iconic Royale print, while Deluxe, the street tailor, took the western shirt and we combined the two.

Where do the similarities lie between Deluxe and CLoT? kP: I think we are similar in a sense we are trying to service the upscale street market, bridging the gap and tying the knot between Hong kong, China, tokyo connect, globally. What do you want your customer to take away from this release? EC: I think everyone has a soft spot somewhere for a good western shirt and I think this is a nice, subtle way to deliver the western shirt. The fit is nice and tight and I want to know that not everything has to meet the eye. I believe with the over exposure of logo‘s and prints it‘s good to have a more low key piece to style with even if you love those all overs or logo orientated product. What did you learn from this project? EC: Working with DELuxE has been educational cause I had to see with them how they work in their office and getting to know the whole crew was good for me. Now we‘re closer and really could say friends, HuE, JEY, FuJIE san are all super dope and the office has a dope vibe and their real dedication to making quality clothes is inspiring for me as a fan and as a collaborator. Looking at the bigger picture, how do you approach product collaborations as they become more and more commonplace? Do you find it increasingly difficult to excite the customer or hold their attention? kP: We just stay in our lane and do things that we think are cool and what we want to do, instead of looking at what everyone else is doing. http://www.clotinc.com http://www.deluxe.jp

frIes & ZUMBÜhl

Text PeymAn FArAhAnI

evin Fries and Jakob zumbühl understand the basis of their creation, treating design as a well-balanced interplay of technological, aesthetic and cultural factors. In the process of design, they are not only confronted with requirements as to the content or form but also with regard to requirements of production and the market: “Consumer, idea, aesthetics, identity, originality, emotion, function, ergonomics, production, logistics, material, innovation, ecology, economy – only someone who knows how to move within these terms and their limits and possibilities can play with them.

We evaluate the various factors for each product anew. We define rules of the game, toys, and we ourselves are players and referees. We make out a field and reduce it to half its size at half time. We make use of the free room for novelties and for positive results. The results are our products.” For their products, Fries & zumbühl have won several design awards. Amongst others, their video-gamereminiscent shelving system tetris received in 2009 the reddot design award as well as the IF-Award. The single modules can be arranged playfully in various ways to create individual storage room. Each tetris unit is handmade in Switzerland using Eternit fibre cement. The MH 18 chair is their newest piece of furniture. The combination of light-colored and charred wood is the result of innovative 3D-laser technology. – A very clever “making-of” video on the designers’ homepage (www.friesundzumbuehl.ch) gives further insight into their creation process, while also showing you around their zurich-based studio. http://www.frieszumbuehl.ch

Photographer Daniella Midenge Styling Rainer Metz

Lace Shirt Wolford Bag Unju Gloves Nina Peter

Blazer Hien Le Body Blush Shoes Rupert Sanderson Choker Sam Frenzel

Shirt Hien Le Latex Culotte TrĂ¨s Bonjour

Jacket Hien Le Latex Culotte TrĂ¨s Bonjour Necklace Sam Frenzel Glass Ring Bernhard Simon (Oona Gallery)

Latex Body TrĂ¨s Bonjour Pants Hien Le, Belt Unju Pumps Rupert Sanderson

Lace Body Wolford Latex Bow-Tie TrĂ¨s Bonjour

Tights Wolford Gloves Nina Peter Pumps Rupert Sanderson

Catsuit Stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s own Belt Sam Frenzel

Model Miriam Adler Mega Hair Sascha Breuer Blossom Management using Wellaflex and Braun Make Up Henriette Hรถft Blossom Management with Chanel Production Production Berlin

Jumpsuit Hien Le Rings Karin Seufert (Oona Gallery)

SEEK Autumn | Winter 2011 | January 19 – 21, 2011 STATION-Berlin | Luckenwalder Strasse 4 – 6 | 10963 Berlin

Airbag Craftworks A2

Bibi Ghost

Edwin Fifth Avenue Shoe Repair Fred Perry Laurel Wreath X Richard Nicoll Indigofera

Camo

Denim Demon

Fred Perry Laurel Wreath Homecore

Howlin by Morrison

Jofama Leuchtturm 1917 Libertine-Libertine

Our Legacy

Pop Cph

Projet Numéro Deux

Sixpack France Soulland Stussy Blank Canvas

Norse Projects

Sandqvist Sunpocket

Surface To Air Them Atelier The White Briefs Vanishing Elephant Veja

Velour

Whyszeck

YMC - You Must Create

www.seekexhibitions.com

Sixpack

France

Brendan

Monroe

ooted in the graffiti art scene, Sixpack France began in 1998 as a little shop in Avignon. Over the past 10 years, Sixpack has emerged as a unique street fashion brand with a cultural dimension. The brand defines its identity through avant-garde architecture, the American indie rock scene and counter cultures such as the 90â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s rave movement, design and the experimental cinema. Building links and connections between art of yesterday and design of tomorrow, Sixpack Franceâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s collection hides a lot of implicit codes, subtle senses, and unspoken references.

In this spirit Sixpack is glad to announce the release of a brand new book called Limbic Place, featuring the American artist Brendan Monroe. This California native has built his visual universes at the edge of reality and imagination, in which emotions converse with the mysterious forces of nature. Experience mental landscapes, synaesthetic fulguration and one-way introspection. For our new issue, Sixpack spoke with Monroe about the Limbic Place, giving insight into what seems to be an initiatory journey to the roots of the human soul.

The book is called Limbic Place. What is this place? Where is it? And what happens there? The place is an imagined plane, somewhere that is not in this world but more in the mind. The Limbic Place is a place in the center of the brain. It refers to the limbic system. It‘s been said that this is the part of the brain that governs our most primal and basic sensations. It also could be the starting point of a self if there were to be one. The reasoning is that in the limbic system the automatic urge to protect one’s self from immediate danger is initiated. To automatically protect one‘s self there has to be a realization of self. If there is a hunt for the biology of consciousness, this is where to start. The book is pretty much about introspection, like an inner journey. Why is it important, in your opinion, to explore our inner world? I think it’s important to investigate what we consider ourselves to be. It’s something that everyone might ask their selves at some point in their lives. How, why and who are we? Sometimes I ask myself why do I want to make art? How do I know what I want to make? What do I want to say? Looking inward I think is the beginning of finding out. Some people look other places but I think it’s important to try and figure out the essence of who we individually are. Even if there are no answers then the exploration can be a rewarding journey alone. Do you agree with transcendental meditation: answers to our questions are to be found inside ourselves, not outside? Do you practice meditation or do you feel your art is connected to it?

http://www.sixpack.fr/

I think answers can be found in lots of ways. Maybe what‘s important is that everyone pushes their own way to find out their own answers. Painting for me is a bit of a meditative practice. Part of it is in my technique.

It‘s not always time consuming and repetitive, but it can be with some projects. Sometimes the focus on a simple repetitive action for long periods of time can lead to drifting thoughts, or even a relaxation of all thoughts. Atoms, molecules, cells, neurons, oxygen, bioelectricity... What can we learn from observing this microscopic world? Almost everything. At least everything that we can think of that applies to the laws of physics. I think there are places it gets interesting though, like when physical biology and chemistry borders on the edge of abstract emotions. Love, anger, desire, every range of emotion can be a result of brain and chemical activity, but that‘s not what we feel. We consider it something else all together. Finally, we could describe the book as an attempt to depict the biology of emotions. Do you agree with this description of your work? I’m really interested in the science behind lives and I hope that comes through in the book. I don’t plan for it to be very specific though. I tend to feel my way through the process and the imagery at the same time. There is no exact reference or direct explanation. In the past year and a half I’ve been thinking a lot about what a self is and imagery that I can try to explain as a landscape of the mind. I think of the paintings as if they are occurrences in this mind place. Similar to what one might think of as a dream, but it‘s also different, there is a little more control and there is emptiness to the backgrounds. I‘d like there to be a sense of losing one‘s self in one‘s own thoughts. The world outside is edited away and what’s left is the essence of emotion and the lingering of connected memories.

Published by Sixpack France, Limbic Place is now available in their online shop.

H I g hsnobie t y

prin t iss u e 2

LIvINg MutANtS

lIvING MUtaNts

Text kATreIn BAumeISTer

From its very first beginning in 2007, Berlin based fashion label Living Mutants has become well recognized in the international fashion market as one of the most innovative European brands for casual menswear. In the course of its first full-blown line for Spring/Summer 2011 we sat down with founder Raphael Weinberg to talk about his brand and the new collection.

What makes Living mutants stand out from the rest? First of all Living Mutants is an independent label based in Berlin, germany, which is rather unusual. Working together with the ”StAHL Corporation” we benefit from being a small company, as we can operate more flexible, like for example faster in terms of decisions, for what’s good for the consumer, product and company. Secondly Living Mutants & Stahl are striving for innovation, a fresh approach towards casual menswear with a precise attitude to the cut and materials. The look of Living mutants is often labeled as ”Future noir” or ”Tech noir/Classic Futurism” with “monochromatic tendencies”. What does that mean and do you agree with that definition? The foundations of our particular look called Classic Futurism could be described as a hybrid, combining fashion elements with themes of film noir, science fiction and cyberpunk. It is a concept that fuses casual street elements with a sophisticated uniform like elegance with an aspect of progressive, industrial roughness and a clear futuristic design. For Spring/Summer 2011 you present a new comprehensive collection - what is the idea behind it? The idea behind the collection is to create designs, which reflect Berlin and life in the city to its very core. The outcome is clothing which is not only stylistically appropriate for wear in urban environments, but clothing through which urban environments are emitted in the designs themselves. Blacks and greys are used heavily throughout the collection and conjure

up a strong sense of industrial space while the details on the garments seek to represent metamorphosis evident in urban environments. Living mutants is known for its use of high quality fabrics like Japanese fabrics especially Japanese denim. What kind of fabrics should we expect in the upcoming collection? For instance we are using a lot of high quality cotton, jersey, shirting and denim fabrics from Japan, also traditional german quality shirtings and cotton fabrics. What else do you do to bring out the best in your products? The company works only with skilled craftsmen to manufacture products, high in both quality and exclusivity, in Berlin and throughout germany. We choose and source the best materials and seek out the best technology. Living mutants is meant to be one of the most innovative brands with a high individual approach - what do you think is missing in today’s casual menswear? It is missing individuality, experiments, forward looking, more like an avant-garde attitude. Basically the number of new brands has increased, and it is rather seldom that one actually detects new ideas or an individual clothing style. What inspires you these days? Still it is the city Berlin that inspires me, a historic city, one that is evidently unfinished and still growing.

http://www.livingmutants.com 56

ALIvE AND kICkINg

reverse MUllet Party in the front, business in the back.

Text henDrIk LAkeBerg Illustrations monJA genTSChoW

Cheers, prost, nastrovje, chin chin and hallelujah. Welcome to the party. Let‘s be honest: in Berlin, Bread & Butter, Fashion Week, BrIghT and Seek are first and foremost a big party, with sales as an afterthought. Big fashion business is still done somewhere else, outside of Berlin. Bread & Butter itself is the result of a long, alcohol-heavy night says karl-heinz müller, the founder of the Bread & Butter trade show, in an interview with us. It has grown into a powerful magnet that draws people from all over the world to this rough, yet beautiful and ever-changing city. Berlin has always been important in the art world, has always been a historic and politically central place, but for fashion? Less so. yet this is changing. Bread & Butter, mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, BrIghT and Seek are slowly uncovering Berlin‘s fashion sensibilities. And besides that, these events are adding some much needed color and glamour to the cold, grey Berlin winter.

H Ig H S NOB I E tY

A lot of young creative people are drawn to Berlin because you can get by with little money and still live a relatively glamourous lifestyle. It has become a cliché, but it‘s true: the rent is still much cheaper than in comparably culturally relevant cities such as Paris, London or New York. Because of this, Berlin has become the most visited European city outside London and Paris. Berlin attracts many young idealists, hedonists, artists, designers and writers, most of whom want to have a career in their own right. ”People are not looking so much at what you have, what job you have, its very different from London and tokyo. Its a good and bad thing. If you can live with 1000 Euro per month, why should you earn more money? That can be a problem. It kills a bit the ambition and willingness to really create a business. In other cities you have to be successful and ambitious to stay”, says karl-Heinz Müller. After a short intermezzo in Barcelona, the Bread & Butter trade show returned to

PRINt ISSuE 2

Berlin. The current location of tempelhof is a perfect fit, combining the long, heavy history of the city with the new, agile, creative impulses that have been flooding Berlin in recent years. And although Berlin has never been a fashion hotspot, fashion events like Bread & Butter or Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin have managed to significantly grow over the last several years. The interest is definitely there. Berlin‘s ”fashion winter” has become a magnet that attracts thousands of professionals, fashionistas and visitors from all over the world. You could side with karl Heinz, who feels that Berlin is more party than business. Berlin is the place to take care of your social connections, to hang out with partners and friends, to develop new ideas and strategies in an environment that lets you breath and relax a little. Maybe at some point in the future Berlin could become what Art Basel Miami Beach is to the art world - without the weather of course. “People need to have fun to

have ideas,” says karl-Heinz Müller. ”Everybody has fun here but is also professional enough to see what is possible and what not.” The Bread & Butter trade show has managed to build an expanding, loyal stem of brands that return each year, while working to keep a sense of family gathering. ”Most of the big shows are too anonymous, too business driven. Many small shows are too small for really anything to happen,” says karl Heinz, and it seems that Bread & Butter has managed to balance things out pretty well. Bread & Butter also helps bring light to the Street and Sportswear market, styles that coincidentally dominate the clubs and bars of Berlin. Though aware of fashion developments, the Berlin style is casual and very ready to wear. Which is why (money issues aside) it is hard to attract high-fashion labels to Berlin. ”I always considered Berlin the capital of understatement. People have a very smart sense for fa-

shion and it‘s very unique, which is fun to watch, it‘s quite different from what I see in other countries,” states Maia guarnaccia, vice President IMg Fashion Europe. In saying this, Maia points towards the biggest problem with a high-fashion oriented event like Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin. Berliners are unique, that is true, but that doesn‘t necessarily mean they are compatible with the glamorous fashion world we see in Paris, Milan or New York. glamour is not something that comes natural to Berliners.

lenge here, in Berlin, with the high-fashion oriented Fashion Week, is to build the city‘s own unique character.

This year, IMg is holding Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin in parallel to the Fashion Week in Paris: an unbeatable opponent. If the two dates continue to clash in the future, it is very unlikely that big high-fashion brands, such as Louis vuitton, will ever show in Berlin. That said, Berlin should not be waiting for the big international fashion houses anyway. Berlin will never be Paris or Milan. The chal-

kicking off Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin with the promising, anticipated Belgian designer-duo A.F. vandevorst, who normally present in Paris, is a good move. Furthermore, the involvement of up-and-coming local designers, like the young duo Peret und Schaad or the avant-garde, art-scene-connected (which at the moment shapes the cultural environment of Berlin much more then the fashion

If there is a credo, that could sum up this city, it would be ”Change is inevitable.” ”I think Berlin has the most dynamic Fashion Week that I know,” underlines Maia guarnaccia. ”It‘s very young and we have an exciting mix of brands and designers, so it never gets boring, which is also fun for the press and the buyers get to see excellent collections.”

world) vladimir karaleev, adds distinct Berlin flavor to the event. ”The more complexity and variety in town, the more interesting it is for the industry visitors”, says guarnaccia. The Fashion Week in Berlin could become the platform for up-and-coming design talents, both local and international. If in five years, we are still saying kaviar gauche, Lala Berlin and c.neeon are the only internationally relevant designers from Berlin (like we did for the last five years) and the biggest Fashion Week shows are by BOSS, Joop! or Escada, then there is something seriously wrong. ”We started with only 10 designers and now present 40, so who knows where we will be in 5 years,” Maia guarnaccia argues. And it sounds promising. Besides the two big anchors of Berlin‘s fashion winter: Bread and Butter and Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Berlin, there is also a lot going on in other locations around the city. For example, the BRIgHt fair for skateboarding,

H Ig H S NOB I E tY

sneakers and streetwear has smartly integrated the connection of place, culture and art from the beginning. ”Beside a very selected brand portfolio, we always show the involved art, music and sport. All this helps to create a strong image related platform. Besides the content, the choice of the building which includes the concept of rooms as exhibition space brings that out as well.” The tradeshow currently takes place in the abandoned headquarters of the East german secret service. If you check out the art exhibition at Bright, you will see creatives who are a part of scene; that is to say, these artists actually wear and identify with the style and fashion of the show. Even in its roughness, all this appears to be well thought out and very down to earth. ”Skateboarding has always been a part of our business and also of our lives,” says Thomas Martini, one of founders of BRIgHt. At SEEk, part of the struggling Premium Fashion Fair, only small independent labels are shown. ”For me it will always be about working in a small way, that comes I suppose from loving everything underground. The commercial pull has not happened yet and to grow in a larger way would not feel right to what SEEk is. I want everything to feel very natural with the show and that every step feels good,” says Oliver Saunders, creative director of SEEk. Like BRIgHt, SEEk is planned as a ”bottomup” type show. It starts with the roots of a scene or a cultural envi-

PRINt ISSuE 2

ronment and builds slowly from there. Also, it‘s always good to watch out for the numerous showrooms and shows taking place around the official trade fairs. And, of course, for the parties in the rich Berlin club scene. Like always, the clubs, bars and restaurants are the places where the real business gets done. As mentioned previously, it was in one of these nights that Bread and Butter came to life. And this is very much the essence of fashion: an idea born in a brief moment, and put into action the next day. Fashion is ever-changing and fast, but still a natural part of life, culture, environment and heritage. Maybe it is because of it‘s flaws, and the fact that Berlin and fashion haven‘t quite found a perfect connection, but all this – right here and right now – feels very much alive and kicking.

Interviews by Linda ehrl and David Fischer

l u pe fiasco v s . eric elms

Text Nick Schonberger Photography Robert Wunsch Illustrations Eric Elms

here is little random about our chosen cover duo. There is, however, a healthy balance of fandom and kinship. Lupe Fiasco and Eric Elms are both artists who have grown, as we at Highsnobiety have, exponentially in the last five years. Their achievements connect fluidly to our content (often big news items) and the whirlwind of intersecting cultural elements serves notice.

Our ears fell for Lupe’s 2006 release, Food & Liquor, swiftly. Even before we noticed a little shout out to our humble website. In a nutshell, theres the fandom and kinship. The balance of admiration and interests that has marked Lupe as a central character in our trajectory. We followed his music and we followed as he made strides in fashion. One of His collaborations with brands like Greedy Genius and Maharishi gave way to stand alone brands - Trilly & Truly and Fallacy of Rome - as Lupe learned and matured. As a tastemaker, Lupe proved a man you follow with rather than behind. A man with distinct and firm taste, who while willing to take risks also understood the value of core classics. By his second release, The Cool (2007), Lupe became a solidified star in the rap world. The album birthed the early collaborations mentioned and increased visibility. Yet, he maintained a healthy balance - billboard success didn’t divorce him from core of our scene. His ability to balance breeds rabid fandom. XXL’s mentioned Lupe as “Best Rapper” and hoards of supporters have backed his label battle ahead of releasing his upcoming Lasers record. Off tracks, Lupe’s record of giving too is impressive. While some of the examples are high profile - climbing Kilimanjaro in aid of clean water supplies - his humanitarian example (like his stake in our scene) hits at many causes. Similarly, Eric Elms’ distinct art and design hits at a myriad of cultural elements. His mark is left on objects and places central to our being as a street culture news outlet. We’ve followed as he created prints for UNDFTD

and produced full scale shop installations for Stussy Chapter stores. Elms has given us a signature Casio G-Shock, countless skate decks (with Zoo York and Stacks), t-shirts (notably with Carhartt and Stussy), and shoes. Shoes have given Elms a massive platform. Vans first helped propel Elms from behind the scenes graphic maestro to ”big name” in 2009. He designed a brand new silhouette, the project setting the scene for the genre blending Vans OTW collection. The mix of lifestyle and skate hits perfectly with Elms personal output. And, again, its the type of balance that rings true in our long relationship with Elms. Like us, Elms has taken the leap into print. Sure, his leap is a little bigger, but we can’t deny connections. With &Press, Elms releases books and ‘zines that strike direct interest with the core of our culture. Aaron Bondaroff has given His Life in T-Shirts, Parra has shared quirky drawings and revelations, and most recently creative director Kevin Lyons granted a look at his private drawings. Elms, with &Press, has become both creator and documenter of our portion of the world. Lupe Fiasco and Eric Elms are names impossible to divorce from our lives as documenters and participants in youth culture. At times, they can be the center of our universe. And, at others they are merely working on the periphery. However, they are always there. Constant reminders of their creativity - videos for singles or ‘zines filled with drawings - continually provide inspiration in our daily lives and in our offices. Pairing them to cover our second print edition is only natural. Few others represent the scope of content like these two artists. Few others manage to reinvent while keeping true to core value with such fluidity. Lupe Fiasco and Eric Elms stand for what Highsnobiety is about. They are the voices shaping our scene and keeping it steadily moving forward.

in t er v iew l u pe fiasco

It makes sense to start off with some fashion talk. What brands are you feeling at the moment? Honestly, I feel so out the loop when it comes to fashion these days. It’s so much noise. I find myself drawn to past collections of brands that I own, so like my favorite jacket at the moment is an Undercover piece from two years ago or an even older blazer from Ato Matsumoto. Longevity cuts through the noise. But, for the sake of not looking like I‘m out of touch completely, I heavily rock with Mastermind Japan, Vans, Undercover, Drestrip, Ato, Miharayasuhiro, Dita, Goyard, my own Trilly&Truly, OVERTHROWN J‘ collection pieces, GAP, Swagger/Phenomenon, LA Barracuda, vintage Bape, vintage Fragment, Vintage BBC. I also really enjoy Chanel more so as a spectator sport than something I would actually buy. Also, I find myself owning and buying a nice amount of Ferrari & Lamborghini branded items I chalk this up to my deep interest in cars and car culture presently. You and Le Messie obviously have some other things going at the moment, but what‘s happening with Fallacy of Rome? I basically gave complete creative direction & production of FALLACY OF ROME over to Le Messie and Amanda of False. I have so much on my plate and to keep from getting too overwhelmed it was just an easier route to let them take it over. I peek my head in from time to time, but I trust their decisions and I‘m really pleased with the results. We have a collection scheduled for release this fall and hopefully more collections to come.

Do you every step in and print any tees? I know Le Messie is all about craft. What have you learned throughout the process of working with him? Whenever I go to Singapore, I make it a point to visit their work space and create all types of one off things... which they vehemently protest sometimes, I might add. But it’s all in fun. I don‘t produce any of the things that are for the public, but I do know how the entire operation works from top to bottom. It’s always a learning experience, from conception of designs to shipping final product. It’s a blessing to be amongst a family that literally does it all and being able to learn from them the entire process. I‘ve always thought of you as a guy really into Japanese streetwear. Not a bad thing, but certainly an interest that breeds a certain attention to detail. Given your fashion background, what‘s your take on the heritage trend and a wider spread interest in manufacture? On manufacturing, I think it‘s a reaction to the sometimes hindering and expensive practice of “middlesmanship” that takes place in the fashion industry. Whereas there always seems to be a mysterious veil between the designer and what he wants to create and the factory that can actually make it and then comes the “middleman” who claims to be the only person who knows how to get through it and make the connection between them. I think there has been a shift in the relationship between the designer and the factory allowing for more direct contact minus the middleman in some cases. I also think the wave of “cut &

sew” that took place over the past few years is a very large part of it. It went from just screening designs on stock t-shirts to designers actually wanting to make the t-shirt itself, which is a completely different process that they had to become acquainted with. Once the flood gates were opened it created a different, more informed, more engaged designers with access to a whole new world of possibilities as far as what he or she could create. Add to this the historic premium that can be placed upon items made from “scratch” and you can see the financial incentive as well. In regards to the heritage trend, I think it’s just the cycle of retrograding that takes place in all of fashion. This longing for the revitalization of things from the past can be seen in A Bathing Ape constantly re-releasing classic t-shirt designs and Neighborhood recalling vintage Vivienne Westwood Seditionaries logos to GUCCI reinstating silhouettes from the 1960‘s and Ralph Lauren‘s RRL‘s conception in its entirety. I think retrograding is here to stay and less a trend. Simplicity is king. And, what‘s more simple than just remaking something that already existed? What other trends do you see bubbling? Where might the tides take us next? When in doubt look to Japan, I always say. But as of recent, I can‘t really call it. We‘re living in a very sensitive “Super-Influenced” state where everything feeds off everything else and everything is having sex with everything. So haute couture has no problem going on a date with UGG. It’s a mess out there

H I g hsnobie t y

in them streets and on those catwalks right now. On a mass level it’s still overall basic silhouettes, with hints of brand recognition or retrograded vintage looks influenced by the ever combining realms of music, art, film and photography. Simplicity is king and comfort is king and a half. From a footwear point of view, where are you at now? All Vans All The Time. I have one single pair of black slip-ons that have with no exaggerations been worn on stage, at a funeral and at a wedding. Now I do deviate here and there but my most consistent thing of present has been Vans and for some very good reasons. We‘re excited about the release of LASERS. Frustrations aside, what has the project taught you? I got a good education on the power & dedication of my fan base. Given that your also pushing on new creative outlets, musically with Japanese Cartoon, how do you feel about hip-hop at the moment? I feel good about it, I feel better about other genres to be honest. Rock, reggae and jazz speak to me more thoroughly but i think hiphop as a commercial product is doing just ‚alright‘ but as a CULTURAL product hip-hop still reigns supreme. What does Japanese Cartoon do for you as an artist? What does it do for you when you think as a solo act, and to an extent as a pure rapper?

prin t iss u e 2

JC takes the lid off for me. Ultimate freedom to do as I please without any fear of critique. JC is my no pressure zone, I enjoy it very much. Being a rapper affords me certain liberties of expression, but it comes with borders, mostly sonic ones to be honest. With Japanese Cartoon there are no borders. All limitless liberty all the time.

It comes from my love for humanity in all its shapes and sizes. It is of the upmost importance for me and my duty not only as a Muslim but as a human being with the ability to affect change merely because I exist. I try to just be an example and since I have the capacity be an example to so many its just what i choose to align myself and my actions with.

How do you feel about the new music coming out of your hometown?

The cover of our magazine, which will feature this interview, finds Eric Elms working on a photograph of one Lupe Fiasco. We‘ve not discussed graphic art yet, but there is a good link to Fallacy of Rome there too. What do you like? Who are your favorite artists?

I‘m pretty pleased with it. Chicago has always been a major force in the music world and I don‘t see that changing anytime soon. Who are some of the guys pushing you as a writer and an mc? In the true sport of writing as an author, which I avidly take part in, I constantly look to Hunter S. Thomspon to improve and polish the skill set as well as other subversive writers and pieces. Writing musically, I find myself trying to achieve a complexity that wears the mask of simplicity in the spirit of Tupac, Fela or Bob Marley, again amongst many others of similar power. In the MC world, the same cast of characters Nas, Mos Def, Black Thought, Blu and even Lil Wayne as of recent.

I like Picasso, Dali, Bansky, Shohei Otomo. I have an appreciation for all art though, fine, street, commercial or otherwise. I‘m very gullible when it comes to subjective expression, a sucker for sore eyes I guess. Sore eyed painters of all sorts. Any other surprises up your sleeve? Well, if I told you that would eliminate the element of surprise.

You get down with a lot of philanthropic causes... and they range from big (Haiti) to smaller... how important is it for you to get out and make a difference. And, as a veteran in this industry to what extent do you feel a responsibility to foster a spirit of giving in other folks? http://www.lupefiasco.com

in t er v iew eric elms

How do you define yourself as an artist? It is very hard for me to define all of my work, I don‘t find a reason to at this point. I just make things. I try and produce projects under a lot of different platforms and in different mediums. Whatever works best for an individual project is how I try to approach it visually. Right now I am less concerned with a specific artistic style than I am about ideas. I‘m creating books, paintings, collages, sculpture and even some things that could exist on their own in the design world. In the end I want them all to combine into a bigger picture of me as an artist. Something that one painting or project couldn‘t show.

Even if one just looks at your studio assistant jobs, you‘ve got an impressive resume. What did you take from your early experiences with Shepard and with Kaws? I had the opportunity to work with a lot of people when I was young and just coming up. More than anything I learned how they approached projects and art. It gave me a chance to experience a full-range of projects that people can work on. I took note of different things that I liked with how they approached their work and used that to shape my work and choices later on. I think a lot of those things were sub-conscious but looking back they had a big impact on what I do now. Going straight, so to speak, to commercially minded work with those guys, did you ever fear you might not develop your own artistic voice?

Not really. The people that I worked for always had a very specific style. It was easy for me to absorb everything without being an assistant that did work that looked exactly like their boss‘. Learning a specific style was never my goal when I worked for someone. I was always excited to be in a creative environment, working on interesting projects and around creative people. Of course you learn technical things along the way, but I just applied them to what I was doing at the time. I always try and experiment with new techniques and ideas so that my visual output is constantly changing. Which artists are you into now? Are there specific things you look for in other peoples work? I don‘t specifically look for things in artists that I like. I think that because I have a design background I see myself liking work based around type or more graphic imagery. Some of the people that I am really into are: Ed Ruscha, John Baldessari, Christopher Wool, Sam Friedman, Cy Twombly, KAWS, Tomoo Gokita, Geoff McFedtrige among many others. Talk about the steps you take preparing a graphic design project? What kind of resources do you employ? What are things you consider your signature? Every project is different. I think the idea comes first. A project is always easier if you spend time on the front end figuring out what you want to do and what you want it to accomplish; both visually and intellectually. Obviously some projects have more of one than the other. Something like a graphic can start from a small idea and then rely heavily

on visual impact, while another project may take a long time to develop a solid idea but it may use a very simple visual solution. There should be an intention to a project, whether the viewer recognizes it or not. I take it on a project by project basis. If an idea works best as a sculpture I figure out how to make a big sculpture out of wood. If an idea would be best as a book with a specific paper, then I research that. Then so on and so forth with all different mediums. Techniques can work in the same way as references. It gives you more flexibility and range to make the most out of ideas. What are the pluses and minuses of corporate commission? Depends on the commission. Some companies are open to trying new things more than others. The project should make sense for both sides. If it doesn‘t than it should probably be turned down. That are advantages of becoming a little bit more well known; companies come to you for your ideas, they trust you more, and you can turn down some jobs that just don‘t make sense. You have to think of the big picture when working with larger companies. ´When working with companies on a more straight up design process (and not as much of an artist commission) then there is a lot more leeway in terms of the types and scopes of projects. In that case I can concentrate on the problem we are trying to solve rather than how it fits into everything else I am doing.

How do you find time for personal art? I just have to make time. I run my own studio so I can move things around to make books or art or design if I have to. Usually it just means working more hours. Sometimes that is something you can‘t avoid. What‘s new with And Press, your publishing venture? I have been making a lot of new books. 2011 will see a lot of new titles coming out on a regular basis. I just put out books from Japanther, TVTV, Kevin Lyons, Sam Friedman, Rip Zinger. Some titles coming soon will be books from Todd Cole and Michael Hauptman. I am trying to expand my distribution in the next few months to free up some time to make more editions in the studio. Looking back, what have been some of your favorite projects? That is a hard one. My first Vans shoe I designed was really great. It is still crazy to think I have Vans model since I have been wearing them for so long in my lifetime. The current Vans OTW project is also fun because it is long term. All of us really get a chance to see things develop with the brand and shape it a little bit. My first show in Japan at Rocket gallery and my show at colette were great points. Also when I started making the big sculptural pieces. It is really hard to name certain projects because each one affects the next thing so much. They become a string of ideas and projects rather than isolated incidents. http://www.ericadorn.com 69

uRSuS Bape released its first collection for Autumn/Winter 2009. The rather new subbrand of iconic Japanese line A Bathing Ape brought on board tetsu Nishiyama from WtAPS as creative director.

Text DAVID FISCher Photography keIIChI nIttA

ursus Bape ex 05 spring 2011 While A Bathing Ape has been best known for their colorful and playful designs in recent years, this new collection added a more casual and basic look to the overall perception of the brand. The generation of so called Bape heads that started following the brand in the mid 90â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s and had grown out of the look, now has a more grown-up alternative offering again, making perfect sense for the reach that the Japanese brand has gained in its almost 20 years of existence.

We preview the new Spring 2011 Collection, which mixes classic and basic styles with heritage inspired looks, inspired by current fashion trends, without leaning itself too far out the window. The signature of creative director tetsu Nishiyama remains very strong and much appreciated. http://www.ursusbape.com

mykita rk color n1 gorDon

MykIta Text DAVID FISCher

Photography ALEx FLACH hair & make-up SARAH MARx model NADINE m4 models

While the eyewear market is a crowded one with quite a few big players, Berlin based Mykita has found their very own niche, producing high quality glasses and sunglasses in germany in their own factory since 2003. From a small, self funded start-up, Mykita has grown into a global brand over the last few years, operating their own shops from Berlin to tokyo. The mix of innovation and superior quality is what sets the brand apart and is what makes it continuously thrive. Among the most interesting things that the brand has done in recent years is creating their own material, mylon, for producing their eyewear. mylon allows for even more innovative styles and forms to come from Mykita in the future. http://www.mykita.com

spring / summer â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;11

Mykita color No.1 / SUN 911 debbie

mykita BW color mL 7 JAQueS-yVeS

mykita co.1 color gold/green solid / 013 WyAtt

Mykita co.2 color: topaz / 910 dries

john woo

he wears it Text David Fischer Illustrations John Woo

John Woo is a Hong Kong based designer and illustrator. Once we came across his “He Wears It” series of illustrations - fusing popular fictional movie characters with todays designer fashion collections – we were both impressed and intrigued. Every couple of weeks John provides Highsnobiety with an exclusive illustration of the series and has now produced four of them for this issue, featuring new Spring/Summer 2011 looks from the runway. http://www.wooszoo.com

H I g hsnobie t y

edward scissorhands wears

band of outsiders prin t iss u e 2

at-at pilot wears

moncler gamme bleu

H I g hsnobie t y

coruscant clone trooper wears

white mountaineering prin t iss u e 2

t-1000 wears

thom browne. new york 88

H I g hsnobie t y

filles á papa

Filles à Papa FOREVER

Text Peyman Farahani Photography Gregory Derkenne

”Chic is fine as long as it is done their way, classic is ok as long as it is deconstructed, sportswear only if it becomes glamorous.” Filles à Papa is the artistic project of two Belgian sisters and designers. It is girls’ sparkly manifesto of independence. When assumed innocence shies away from nothing. Filles à Papa is that sort of take-itor-leave-it attitude. The spring/summer 2011 collection shows more than ever the rebel look that will set the fashion world ablaze. “Soldiers of love” steeped in a gold and glitter bath make no bones in proclaiming their commitment to the earth, to a consummate Belgitude, to a devilishly mischievous odd appearance and a glam rock style that is a constant. Simplicity of designs, worn instinctively, to think, read or dance, and a simplicity of colors such as white, grey, black and flesh-colored to highlight their desire to be nude. Since last year’s Kostume N°3 in Zurich we have had an affair with Filles à Papa… http://www.fillesapapa.be

prin t iss u e 2

three Joshua trees Photographer terrence wunder Fashion editor Linda Charlotte Ehrl

Sandra wears top My Pet Square, hot pants WESC, leather bangle Lauren Manoogian, brass bangle Dream Collection, sunglasses House of Holland x Linda Farrow. Rainer wears shades Ray Ban.

left dress Nsha Atelier necklace Jensen Conroy

right top Ay Not Dead skirt stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s own leather bangle Lauren Manoogian brass bangle Dream Collection necklace Samma

left Sandra wears own leather jacket panties Stella McCartney Rainer wears vintage hunting glasses seen at Mohawk General Store

right sandra wears dress Nsha Atelier Rainer wears vintage hunting glasses seen by Mohawk General Store belt stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s own.

Hair & Make-up Kindra Mann.com Models Rainer Lipski Sandra Seeling Lipski BKI Agency, L.A. all menswear Stussy Deluxe all hats Christysâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC; hats all jewelry seen by Mohawk General Store mens shoes all GNRC Design girls boots Zodiac USA

Sandra shirt Stussy Deluxe

bottom and right: Sandra wears own leather jacket top Nsha Atelier, panties Stella McCartney necklace Lauren Manoogian Rainer wears vintage hunting glasses seen by Mohawk General Store

made space "Fed Up with not having the right possibilities to show her artwork, to meet and collaborate with other creatives and especially to make something happen", artist TadiRock initiated the MADE Space project in 2009, with the official opening celebration happening in Mid 2010. Since then Nico Zeh, Philip Gaedicke, Alexis Dornier, Luise Biesalksi and of course TadiRock at the helm, have become the core MADE team, making the various collaborative creative projects from different genres happen.

H I g hsnobie t y

"The essence of MADE is to bring people from different genres together. We want to inspire and motivate people to realize their dreams and visions. To move on from what they've done up to now, to go further, to continue to develop and discover and try out new disciplines of forms and expression for their creativity." Text David Fischer Photography Robert Wunsch

http://www.made-blog.com

prin t iss u e 2

Here above you see an outtake from the last project at MADE, entitled "Valse Automatique".

keinemusik The Berlin based record label keinemusik is a self-proclaimed do-it-yourself-operation, a collective of DJs and producers and above all friends, driven by a collective spirit of good sound.

Photography: Lennart brede Text: Katrein Baumeister

Since its foundation in 2009 the keinemusik DJs &ME, Adam Port, David Mayer, Rampa and Reznik enrich not only the Berlin techno environment but also the international party scene with finest Deep- and Tech house. Constantly following their credo: ”You don’t necessarily need to be overly serious to be taken seriously.” Rampa explains how this works in practice.

http://www.keinemusik.com

You say about yourself ”The keinemusik clique would rather throw a BBQ than meditate over some business plan.” Did you ever expect to become that successful with that kind of a plan? We never had a master plan. We just wanted to do our own thing. Some records, our own shirts, good parties, our own studio and so on. Everything that happened to be connected to the music is basically good fun and makes the everyday pretty exciting. It’s not that we had expectations about how those things would turn out in the end. We were more like, ‘something will happen, but who knows.’ We’re just happy about how it is right now. What makes a good DJ? In a few weeks keinemusik celebrates its second birthday. You once told that in the beginning of keinemusik you needed to invest all your time and energy and your own money in it. How did your work develop from the beginning until today? To be honest, not so much has changed since then. We’re still investing all our time and energy in it. Chances are, it’s even more than before. But the good thing is: it’s also more fun. How did the keinemusik crew get together? As it is these days, on www.chatroulette.com. But you all have a different musical background. Rampa was into techno, then moved on to punk, got into hip-hop and then all the way back. Adam is coming from a hardcore background and still has his fingers on dancehall from time to time. The curly one [&Me] is of course hip-hop to the bone. Reznik also started out with punk and hardcore, but is listening to almost everything. Monja is all over the place as well.

When the people are enjoying themselves, of course! And we’re not talking two-hour sets here. As well, when at the same time [the DJ] is enjoying himself. I guess all of you are not only DJs but also producers - how do you develop a new track? Everyone has his own routine. It’s hard to put it into words as most people aren’t interested in the technical aspect of it and the emotional approach is varying from time to time. In a word: Adam is producing more loop-based, Rampa is going for his own cookie-cutter approach, &ME is going for the long runs, but keeps it simple, and David Mayer is using a lot of tracks and strips it down later. Monja and Reznik aren’t producing so far, at least no music. Could you name 3 timeless records or tracks that you would always reintegrate into your sets? Steadycam - Get On Up There Ricardo Villalobos - Serpentin Everything from Michael Jackson

Do you think the increasing number of features of digital technology is damaging the quality of what DJs do? No. The world is constantly changing. Of course there are many cool, old-fashioned things and approaches, but also interesting and helpful new ones. Technology is giving you enormous possibilities these days, but also new challenges. It’s still up to everyone to decide which way to go. You can still combine both of course. The important thing is not to lose track of what the whole thing should be about and to make sense in the end. From all over the world people are traveling to Berlin to enjoy the city’s techno party scene. In your opinion - what makes it so special? It’s the people, the sound, the clubs, the low costs, and the vibe. You have the whole setup only once, and that’s in Techno city. What can we expect from keinemusik in the next years? Nuffin‘. The label name keinemusik is in fact an invented compound word that in two words literally means no music. That is kind of a funny name for a music label. Basically it comes down to this: keine Musik – the party is over. 103

bespo k en

bespoken Spring/Summer 2011

What happens when you mix the best of both worlds? The Bespoken spring/summer 2011 range, thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s what. The dandy and the heritage man have long been known to be at opposing ends of the style barometer, but Bespokenâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s latest line looks to bring both together into one pleasing mix.

104

105

106

Text Jason Dike Photography Robert Wunsch

escribing the collection as ‚more functional‘ than previous ones, Bespoken have taken the the workwear edge and added it to their collection, making something that‘s a mix between their long lasting rock and roll influence and some newer influences. In addition to this, they‘ve also made several shirts at English shirt makers Turnbull and Asser using their knowledge to create shirts that are a couple of steps above the norm. Turnbull and Asser have worked on a host of collaborations lately, including one with BBC, but this one sees them being asked to stick to their strengths. As expected, a company that‘s centuries old tend to work better when working within their comfort zone. They‘re capable of many things but, as previous collaborations have shown, prints are not their strong point. Aiming at the everyday bloke - albeit the everyday bloke that can afford Bespoken - this is something of an evolution for the English brand that everyone forgets is English. Tailoring and workwear have never worked so well together.

http://www.bespokenclothiers.com

107

eas t pa k | g aspard y u r k ie v ich

Sorry, We Are Not Sorry Eastpak for Gaspard Yurkievich Spring /Summer 2011 Text David Fischer Photography Daniela MĂźller-Brunke

In a collection entitled "Sorry, We Are Not Sorry,â&#x20AC;&#x153; Eastpak continues its collaboration with Parisian designer, Gaspard Yurkievich, for a second season. Ranging from bags to carry-ons and backpacks, the collection offers a nice selection of pieces for Spring/Summer 2011. Soft and flexible materials have been used in the line, such as artificially aged leather and washed linen. Eastpak is probably best known for being a reliable, yet basic luggage brand. Through collaborations with Raf Simons, Rick Owens and this one with Gaspard Yurkievich, the brand manages to enter a more fashionable market, one that it had previously not touched at all. Functionality and fashionable design meet in these collections, opening new markets and speaking to a new customer, while lifting the overall brand perception. We appreciate that Eastpak does not collaborate with any and every brand and designer out there, rather choosing wisely and keeping these limited edition collections special.

http://www.eastpak.com http://www.gaspardyurkievich.com

108

band of o u t siders

Band of Outsiders 110

Text Susanna Maria Glitscher Photography Robert Wunsch

cott Sternberg was a former Hollywood Agent before he decided to found Band Of Outsiders in 2004, a label under which he started to translate vintage fabrics into a classic menswear collection. Named after a 1964 Godard film, it somehow seems that Band Of Outsiders belongs to another time - with oxford shirts, tuxedos and classic color shades - yet itÂ´s not the stereotypical Hollywood glamour that is reflected in the clothing but a more subtle, arty elegance. Girls appear elfish in lightly draped, flower print summer dresses, while boys are properly dressed in tailored suits, striped polo shirts and summery shorts. That is to say, we were more than happy to be invited to their Spring/Summer 2011 presentation during New York Fashion Week.

111

band of o u t siders

Band of Outsiders now also showcases a womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s line called Boy. The name could not be a better fit, with girls dressed in matching checkered jackets and shirts; pleated-front trousers and collegiate tank tops. Being so close to the models, the details stood out and caught our attention. Details like white tuxedo jackets combined with flared skirts, jogging pant laces attached to cotton trousers while well cut blazers mixed with casual pants. Then there were the fantastic jackets made out of butter soft suede and pajama tops and pants which completed the easy to wear collection. In the end, our eyes started to wander down to the feet and we could not help but stare. Thick brown leather laced-ups with a bi-color belt, and beautiful, metallic brogues for the ladies truly rounded off this summerâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;s Band Of Outsiders collection; elaborating upon their usual preppy look.

112

http://www.bandofoutsiders.com

113

oni t s u k a t i g er

For Spring/Summer 2011, Onitsuka Tiger presents the Aisen capsule collection of indigo dyed sneakers, apparel and accessories. Named after two Japanese words meaning, quite literally, ‘indigo’ and ‘dye’, the Aisen products combine contemporary style with a traditional Japanese manufacturing process. Interested in learning more about this new collection, we caught up with Onitsuka Tiger designer Shuhei Numata.

Onitsuka Tiger x shuhei numata

114

Text Pete Williams Lifestyle Photography Stefanie Suchy

Please introduce yourself to our readers. Who are you and how did you come to work with Onitsuka Tiger? Shuhei Numata - born and raised in Japan, close to Mount Fuji. Education: 6 years of oil painting and contemporary art at the art university in Tokyo. Shifted to Europe after and studied in Arnhem (NL) at HKA (Hogeschool voor de Kunsten Arnhem). Before being approached to come work for Onitsuka Tiger by the former vice president at Asics Europe B.V. I worked for adidas Originals for 2 years. I‘ve worked here [at Onitsuka] for 3 years now. The Onitsuka Tiger AISEN collection of apparel, bags and footwear is named after two Japanese words meaning ‘indigo’ and ‘dye’, and fittingly features a full range of indigo dyed items. What made you decide to work with this pigment? AISEN Indigo has been heavily connected to the Japanese lifestyle for centuries. It is still a really important and well respected material for daily wear. Next to that, what makes it interesting, is that Indigo has many important feature - like the natural anti bacterial feature - and the many color variations of indigo. Tell us about the traditional Japanese hand-dying process used for the AISEN collection. Was this an integral aspect of the project? Fabric production and product manufacturing is carried out in Japan, all done by real Japanese craftsmen. There is a distinct Japanese street feel to a number of pieces, with the technical zips and contrasting white accents. Did you have a specific person in mind when designing these garments?

I wanted to create something distinguished and unique for the consumer interested in what he is actually wearing. The consumer who likes to know the background behind the products - like the production process and the special details. Also, I create what I want to wear myself. Integrating a lot of technical detail to a product is a trend in street fashion and in Japan at the moment. In Europe the weather can be very bad with wind and rain, therefore the technical aspects are very functional. The AISEN footwear line includes the Onitsuka Tiger OKATABI, inspired by the traditional Japanese tabi shoe. Do you feel this is an important aspect of the collection? Tell us about the process of choosing which footwear models to include. Tabi shoes are original Japanese products. Already in 1953, the founder of Onitsuka Tiger, Mr Kihachiro Onitsuka designed the 1st marathon shoe based on this design, so it is a very important part of our brand DNA. Since it is so characteristic, it is a very interesting product for consumers. Today Tabi shoes are still used by construction workers and gardeners. At the same time, the split toe design has reached well known fashion designers all over the world as an inspiration source for their designs. At Onitsuka Tiger we managed to improve on the comfort and fit of the shoe to satisfy todays needs. With the use of indigo dyed material we succeeded in achieving an evolution of the product. To give a good understanding of the wide range of footwear we offer, the footwear team chose products from the different categories:

heritage, running and basketball. All styles represent a decade and give insight of Mr Onitsuka’s past creations in the different categories What are your personal favorite styles from the collection? I like all the designs, but if I need to pick one, the technical jacket, because of its detail and special features: waterproof zippers, doublefaced water repellent coating, functional pockets and the combination of traditional material and contemporary design. You are a Japanese designer living in Amsterdam. What are the biggest cultural differences between Japan and the Netherlands, and how does that affect your work? The reason I first came to Holland is the huge difference in culture - the way of communication, the weather, the people - everything is really different. This gives me a lot of inspiration. What‘s next? We continue with the AISEN concept with different executions for this winter season. Next to that, we are working with using more traditional elements from Japanese culture, transforming them into contemporary garment designs and product.

http://www.onitsukatiger.com

115

sWeet WasaBI

Photographer tERRENCE WuNDER Fashion editor LINDA CHARLOttE EHRL

Dennis wears t-shirt 10DEEP, pants Lacoste, CAP MISHkA. Dina wears dress SQ tHE LABEL, belt PERRY gARgANO x kRIStINE gOttILLA.

Dennis wears jacket and jeans Mishka, shirt 10deep Dina wears jacket Onitsuka Tiger, shirt SQ The Label

118

119

120

Dina wears pullover My Pet Square, shorts Lacoste, necklace Perry Gargano, clutch bag Perry Gargano x Kristine Gottilla Dennis wears cardigan and pants Lacoste, t-shirt Mishka, necklace Perry Gargano

121

Dina wears pullover LACOSTE, shorts MY PET SQUARE, jewelry Perry Gargano Dennis wears hoodie 10deep, jeans Mishka

122

123

Fashion Assistance Larissa Sirah Herden Hair Eiji Kadota cosmichairmake.com Make-up Hiraka Models Dennis Drรถmer Megamodels, Dina Vincekovic all shoes Onitsuka Tiger

http://www.onitsukatiger.com

124

Dina wears pullover Lacoste shorts My Pet Square jewelry Perry Gargano Dennis wears hoodie 10deep jeans Mishka

125

WESC

WesC sPrING footWear Text TIm BroDhAgen

In eleven years WesC has become much more than a swedish denim brand for skaters and snowboarders, they’ve become a particular cultural institution. a brand with the unique ability to represent for high fashion and streetwear with equal ease, WesC has changed the game for almost everyone else and that’s not even talking about what they’ve done for headphones. so with their how and when did the idea to launch a shoe line originate? gH: I first came to think of it in November last year on a flight back to Sweden from the uS and thinking about more things we wanted and could do! It felt relevant for the brand to create a footwear line, and it felt like a natural step forward for us. What is the vision for WeSC footwear from both a fashion and a business perspective? gH: Like all parts of WeSC, whether it’s the collections, headphones, or other, we found a gap in the market right between street and fashion. That‘s what WeSC Footwear is - it‘s the bridge between those two worlds and it caters to the people who love that! We want it to be like everything we do with WeSC: amazing. Do you plan to grow the footwear category into a huge part of WeSC, rivaling apparel, or will you keep it relatively small? gH: WeSC Footwear is a great complement to our other products and ranges. Our consumers are all different kinds of people in very diffe126

rent situations and parts of the world, and that‘s who we design the items for. The Footwear category of WeSC will grow organically with the brand. As the head of a company what is the most exciting thing about jumping into a new category? What‘s the most difficult? Do you ever get nervous? gH: The most exciting thing about it is the people we work with; employees, collaborators, friends. WeSC is all about that - good people doing great things together. The process of creating these shoes has been truly great and everyone involved has been fantastic. I don‘t really get nervous about introducing a new category though. Andreas, is it daunting or liberating to have such a blank slate with which to create? AC: I‘d say it‘s liberating if anything. Having a blank canvas makes the possibilities and where you want the design to go endless. People might think they have an understanding of the WeSC design language

game on lock, what’s a progressive brand to do? Progress of course. that’s exactly what founder, Ceo, and ultimate Weactivist Greger hagelin was thinking when he had the eureka moment that led to WesC launching their first ever footwear collection for spring 2011. We sat with Greger and his lead footwear designer andreas Croneby for a conversation about WesC’s latest endeavor. and might expect a certain look, however, if you truly know the WeSC design language you know you‘re going to see some unexpected pieces as well as more classic pieces with a WeSC twist to it. Having the freedom to take the footwear design wherever you want to contrary to being limited or pigeonholed is a luxury we‘ve been fortunate to have and is something that gives us a unique opportunity to steer WeSC Footwear in any direction we want it to go. What has been your favorite moment during the process of developing and launching the footwear line? AC: All of it. Every part of the process has its own charm to it, making it all equally interesting. Whether it‘s designing a detail of an upper, picking fabrics, or going back and forth with suppliers to reach the desired result. It‘s all part of perfecting a product, which is truly satisfying. gH: I think seeing the first designs and the first samples arriving were the most exciting things about this process! What sets WeSC footwear apart from other brands in terms of design? AC: The attention to detail and not over designing just for the sake of

it is a big part of the WeSC design aesthetic overall and I think that has a strong presence in the footwear collection. greger, are you personally a sneakerhead or shoe lover? gH: I‘m definitely a sneakerhead and it‘s just recently that I‘ve started using other shoes that aren‘t sneakers - I‘ve always been wearing sneakers throughout winter, snowstorms, parties, everything. Did you request that a model be named after you or was that a surprise? That‘s a dream for a lot of people, how does it feel? gH: This is the first time in the history of WeSC that something is named after me (and our products always have names from people) so it felt great! The shoe feels very personal to me and it‘s a great honor to finally have a Hagelin in the WeSC product range. http://www.wesc.com WeSC footwear was pre-launched at: WeSC Concept Stores Worldwide, Sneakersnstuff Stockholm, Caliroots Stockholm, Colett Paris, Selfridges London · The complete collection will be found at WeSC retailers globally.

127

raw

Spring /Summer 2011 Text Tim Brodhagen

In 2006 Steve Costello and Kevin Susienka decided they wanted to do something different. In the face of massive commercialization in the skateboard industry, these two purists from Boston launched Ready Amongst Willing, more commonly known as RAW. With a commitment to skateboarding above all else, and a personal mandate to promote the artistic integrity of their friends, Steve and Kevin created something that many have tried and failed at before: a completely independent and successful skateboard company. In 2009 they opened their own shop which acts as the epicenter for New England skateboarding. As they enter their fifth year, we thought it would be appropriate to ask them how they did it.

128

H I g hsnobie t y

How hard is it to be an independent skateboard brand in 2011? Or is it not hard at all?

What have been the moments/occasions through RAW‘s history that have signified success to you?

KS: Good, tricky question. I could say it‘s difficult and sound like a pussy. I could say it‘s not difficult and sound like a bullshit artist. I don‘t consider myself to be a pussy or a bullshit artist so I will say that some aspects of running a business are more challenging than others. As far as the skateboard industry is concerned, we‘re not really playing the same game that other people are playing so our independence as a brand goes a little further than most.

SC: Every time I put the key in the lock and the shop opens for business I feel a bit successful.

SC: How hard is it to accomplish anything without fully committing to it? There will always be ups and downs but as long we stay committed to what we‘re doing I think we will become what we envisioned for ourselves. I think the feeling of independence comes from an unwavering commitment to do what is necessary to accomplish the goals you‘ve set for yourself.

KS: My favorite situation is always going to be seeing someone out in public wearing a RAW tee or skating a RAW board and not knowing exactly who they are, like I would have 5 years ago. For the most part, our original supporters knew us personally, so how the brand has been passed on to those outside of the circle is very satisfying. What is RAW‘s vision for 2011? SC: Consistency. Being consistent day in and day out is extremely important. I think the vision for next year is to become even more consistent on a regular basis. It makes any transition a bit smoother. KS: Progress. Running a brand is like riding a skateboard. We always want to get better. A lot of where we will go as a brand in 2011 is uncharted territory and making such moves will make us better than we were in 2010.

http://www.rawnewengland.com

prin t iss u e 2

129

t he h u ndreds

the hundreds Text Pete Williams Photography Robert Wunsch

ootstrapped by two college friends now known simply as Ben Hundreds and Bobby Hundreds - The Hundreds brand represents the mixed bag of skate, surf, punk, hip-hop, and other influences that make up California culture and the West Coast lifestyle. Of the “new-generation” of streetwear labels, that is, those individuals who‘ve founded their brands within the past 5-6 years, The Hundreds are without a doubt among the top few when it comes to commercial success. And as we all know, with success comes criticism. Some criticize The Hundreds for failing to mature with the market. For choosing to stick with colorful graphic tees and bold, sloganbased wear, while many of their streetwear contemporaries jump ship in favor of the Americana revolution. For this, we applaud Ben and Bobby, viewing it not as a failure to grow, but as a commitment to their youthful roots. No matter where you stand on the product, or how “over” the streetwear look you are, there is no denying the fact that every year there is going to be a new batch of rebellious 16 year olds who want exactly what The Hundreds have to offer. Even if you disagree with these sentiments, in an industry so obsessed with “being on the grind,” you absolutely cannot knock The Hundreds‘ hustle.

http://www.thehundreds.com

130

Following the opening of a flagship store in their home town of Los Angeles and another shop in nearby San Francisco, The Hundreds did the seemly impossible and, in late 2010, set up shop in extremely-hard-to-please New York City. No pop-up. We‘re talking a fullfledged, permanent build out. Beyond retail, The Hundreds have steadily and consistently diversified their original product line, within the last year establishing themselves as one of the first (and still among only a handful of) independent streetwear labels outside Japan to offer a full head-to-toe collection. This comes complete with requisite artist footwear collaboration - in The Hundred‘s case, young gun tattoo artist Jun Cha. To this day, The Hundreds‘ fan base continues to grow, their product stays true to what it‘s always been, and the brand‘s special projects (such as the recent Garfield collection, art show and shop) continue to impress even the most jaded of on-lookers, or, at the very least, draw attention from those who front like they don‘t pay attention. Wherever you stand on any of the above is up for debate, but at this point on thing remains undeniably true - The Hundreds is HUGE.

131

the golden

Photographer Robert Wunsch Fashion Editor Linda Charlotte Ehrl

standard

132

Bikini and bathing suit WESC

133

134

left: beige cardigan, bathing suit, denim shorts all wesc right: cardigan and denim shorts wesc Bikini top Lolli Beach Candy Swimwear vintage sandals The General Store

135

136

left: dress Huffer sandals G.A.Y. pink college jacket in the back WESC

right: dress My Pet Square sandals G.A.Y. shades Ray Ban

137

Hair & Make-up Alison Christian models Leza G, Petie Sjogren Ford Models all hats Christysâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC; hats

138

dress Nsha Atelier sandals G.A.Y. sunglasses House of Holland x Linda Farrow

139

arc ‘ t ery x v eilance

Arc‘teryx Veilance Spring 2011

Text David Fischer

Arc‘teryx has quickly made a name for itself with their Veilance Collection, a line which brings their technical expertise to a more fashion conscious customer. Working on the fore front of technical-wear innovation on clothing, the brand will always surprise you with features and details that you have never seen before and most of the time certainly did not think you would need. Fusing sharp modern design with technical innovation is probably the best way to describe the Arc‘teryx Veilance Collection. The Spring/Summer 2011 Collection continues to impress with cuts, materials and of course pure functionality. Veilance is certainly a line to watch and learn from!

http://www.veilance.arcteryx.com

140

141

g - shoc k

g-shock x alife G5500AL-1

Text Pete Williams

ALIFE presents an exclusive G-SHOCK G5500AL-1 watch with a black on black reverse LCD display with special packaging. The limited edition watch features custom ALIFE branding on the strap and is now available at ALIFE flagship stores, as well as select boutiques around the globe. http://www.gshock.com http://www.alifenyc.com/theupset

142

H I g hsnobie t y

g - shoc k

g-shock x dgk GX-56DGK

Text David Fischer

Another collaborative highlight from G-SHOCK is their work with DGK on the GX-56 watch. Coming in a beautiful purple/black colorway, the watch features DGK branding on the dial and the strap. Nicely wrapped in custom packaging, the watch is now available at select stores. http://www.gshock.com http://www.dgk-skateboards.com

prin t iss u e 2

143

s t ore g u ide

storeguide |

Soto Torstrasse 72, 10178 Berlin Soto recently opened its doors right on Torstrasse - the new "it" location in Berlin. The store stocks only the finest in contemporary menswear, bringing together an international line-up of brands including Band of Outsiders, Opening Ceremony, Pendleton, Penfield, Nike Sportswear, Vans Vault, Our Legacy, Norse Projects and many more. Monday - Friday: 12pm - 8pm Saturday: 11am - 8pm www.sotostore.com

Firmament Schröderstrasse 8, 10115 Berlin Firmament is carrying a strong line-up of Japanese brands, exclusively available at the store for Germany and sometimes even Europe. Discover visvim, WTAPS, Arc'Teryx Veilance and Original Fake among others. Monday: closed Tuesday - Friday: 2pm - 7pm Saturday: 12pm - 6pm www.am-firmament.com

14 oz. Neue Schönhauser 13, 10178 Berlin 14oz. is your go to denim and heritage destination in Berlin, offering a great selection from the likes of Alden, Tricker's, Nigel Cabourn, Denham and other high quality offerings. Monday - Saturday: 11am - 8pm www.14oz-berlin.com

Civilist Brunnenstrasse 13, 10119 Berlin Civilist fuses the concept of a select streetwear store with an urban art gallery and is the latest addition to the Berlin Mitte retail environment.The store stocks Nike SB, Vans Syndicate, Huf, DQM, Ransom by adidas Originals and other strong independent skate inspired streetwear lines. Monday - Saturday: 12pm - 7pm www.civilistberlin.com

Do You Read Me?! Auguststrasse 28, 10117 Berlin Welcome to the best stocked premium fashion and art magazine store in Berlin Mitte. Monday - Saturday: 10pm - 8:30pm www.doyoureadme.de

VOO Concept Store

Mykita

Oranienstrasse 24, 10999 Berlin

Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 6, 10178 Berlin

The voo Store in Berlin kreuzberg is 300 sq m full of fashion, art and treasures from all over the world. VOO is a shopping environment away from the usual fashion district but with the same high standards. An integral part of VOO is a space for rotating interdisciplinary art initiatives and exhibition that works with installation artists, landscape, wood, and product designers as well as interesting figures in contemporary pop culture.

The high-end Berlin eyewear brand presents its complete collection in their Berlin flagship store. While having grown into a global brand in recent years, they still remain a special tip in the sector.

www.vooberlin.com

No. 74 torstraSSe 74, 10119 Berlin No74 is a special store by adidas, carrying all their high end lines (Y-3, SLVR), as well as all collaboration collections with Jeremy Scott, Kazuki and David Beckham. Monday - Saturday: 12pm - 8pm http://no74-berlin.com

Monday - Friday: 11pm - 8pm / Saturday: 12pm - 6pm www.mykita.com

STAB Gipsstrasse 23, 10119 Berlin Stab is the latest sneaker store to have opened in Berlin and offers a premium selection of footwear in the Mitte district, next to a small apparel selection. Monday - Friday: 12pm - 8pm, Saturday: 11am - 7pm http://www.stickabush.com

rsvp Mulackstrasse 14, 10119 Berlin

Here you will find the most beautiful stationery from around the world.

Nürnbergerstrasse 16, 10789 Berlin

Monday - Saturday: 12am - 7pm http://www.rsvp-berlin.de

Solebox Solebox is the best known premium sneaker landmark in Berlin. From Converse, Asics, New Balance, Lacoste to Reebok and Sperry Top-Siders, the store offers an excellent footwear selection. The store interior was designed by Dutch artist Delta and is well worth checking out!

Trüffelschwein Rosa-Luxemburg-Str. 21, 10178 Berlin

Monday - Saturday: 12pm - 8pm www.solebox.de

Trüffelschwein is a well stocked menswear store, just around the corner from the Lux11 hotel in Berlin Mitte.

Monday - Saturday: 12pm - 8pm www.trueffelschweinberlin.com

Motto Skalitzer Strasse 68, 10997 Berlin Next to do you read me?!, MOTTO is the best stocked magazine store in the city with a beautiful wooden interior. Definitely worth a visit on your next Berlin visit. The store is located in the backyard of the building. Tuesday - Saturday: 12pm - 8pm www.mottodistribution.com

Wood Wood Rochstrasse 4, 10178 Berlin After Copenhagen, Berlin marks the second store for this Danish fashion brand. Once again they present a well curated multi-brand store, with its own in-house line being the core of the experience. Monday - Saturday: 12pm - 8pm www.woodwood.dk

Burg & Schild Rosa-Luxemburg-Strasse 3, 10178 Berlin Burg & Schild offers a fantastic selection of mens‘ heritage brands from around the globe, mainly sourcing its product from the U.S.A. and Japan. The guys also run the Red Wing store just around the corner. Monday - Friday: 11am - 8pm Saturday: 11am - 8pm www.burgundschild.com

a.p.c. MulackstraSSe 35 , 10119 Berlin Visit the French cult brand‘s Berlin flagship store. Monday - Friday: 12pm - 8pm, Saturday: 12am - 6pm www.apc.fr

LaLa Berlin Mulackstrasse 7, 10119 Berlin Created by former Mtv editor Leyla Piedayesh, LaLa Berlin has become a real force in the local Berlin fashion scene. They are well known for their great cashmere pieces. Monday - Friday: 12pm - 8pm, Saturday: 12pm - 6pm www.lalaberlin.com

Apartment Memhardstrasse 8, 10178 Berlin You come in and there is just an empty white space, but once you go down the stairs into the basement, you enter a black world of high end niche fashion brands. Monday - Friday: 11pm - 8pm, Saturday: 12pm - 6pm www.apartmentberlin.de

Lil Shop Brunnenstrasse 184, 10119 Berlin Lil decided to find a permanent home and created Lil Shop, which stocks an incredible selection of all Comme des Garcons Collections. Tuesday - Friday: 12pm - 7pm, Saturday: 12pm - 5pm www.lil-shop.com

144

An honest dedication to high-quality manufacturing. Icon pieces for your wardrobe that will stay with you for a long time. Products to be worn and lived in. Brought to you with expert knowledge

------------------------------------------

www.14oz-berlin.com

and a down-to-earth attitude.

------------------------------------------

A strong, profiled portfolio of up-and-coming & signature brands.

Neue SchĂśnhauser StraĂ&#x;e 13 . 10178 Berlin . Germany Monday to Saturday 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Call: +49(0)30 280 40 514

imprin t

imprint

Publisher David Fischer Editor in Chief & Creative Director Robert Wunsch Fashion Director Linda Charlotte Ehrl Contributing Stylist Rainer Metz Fashion Assistant Larissa Sirah Herden Editorial Assistant Sebastian von Brauchitsch

Art Direction Jens Adamaszek, Nina Emmerich www.hatch-berlin.com Supervising Text Editor Peyman Farahani Highsnobiety Editors Jeff Carvalho, Pete Williams, Nick Schonberger, David Fischer, Tim Brothagen, Jason Dike Contributing Editors Hendrik Lakeberg, Katrein Baumeister, Susanna Maria Glitscher Proof Reader Jeff Carvalho, Pete Williams Photographers Daniella Midenge, Daniel Reiter, Frank the Butcher, Gregory Derkenne, Harlim, Jeremy Dunn, Julia Schoierer, Keiichi Nitta, Lennart Brede, Robert Wunsch, Stefanie Suchy

Illustrators Eric Elms, John Woo, Monja Gentschow Printing Lochmann Grafische Produktion GmbH Advertising advertising@highsnobiety.com Headquarter Address: Highsnobiety Titel Media Neue Schรถnhauser Str. 16 10178 Berlin Germany Contact & Feedback magazine@highsnobiety.com

Livory Font by Hannes von Dรถhren www.hvdfonts.com

Thanks: Sky Gellatly, Marisol Martinez, DJ Neil Armstrong, Rampa & Adam Port keinemusik, Sandra Haller Styleheads, Reinhold Kรถhler Virtue, Martin Nies Volkswagen, Anne Nierhaus adidas, Tom Gabrea K1X, Kwon Kim & Marscha Scheepbouwer & Saskia Clarijs Asics, The Wall Group Hair & Make-up, Joy Asbury Productions L.A., Michael Novin Mark Edward Inc., Mavinga Petrasch Appartments New York, Meg Day Ford Models, Greg Beauty Wing Inc., Misla Tesfamariam, Jule Laabs, Max Padilla, Jonas Hegi, Lisa Mettier, Alex Schiller, Lena Brandt and everybody who helped make this issue happen.

146

2011

WeActivist CARLO MONDAVI SHOT BY CHERYL DUNN www.wesc.com

148