Hike east 2014 v1 by Hikeast Team Free Guidebook

Contents Turkey Map 7 10 Things Not To Mis 9 İstanbul 10 Beyoğlu 12 Sultanahmet 24 Kadıköy 30 Islands 34 Around İstanbul 36 İznik 42 Çanakkale 44 Assos 48 Bozcaada 50 Gökçeada 52 Ayvalık 54 Lesvos/Mytilini 56 İzmir 60 Çeşme 62 Foça 64 Bergama 66 Ephesus 68 Şirince 71 Kuşadası 82

Denizli / Pamukkale 73 Muğla Gökova / Akyaka 76 Dalyan 78 Köyceğiz 81 Datça 82 Bodrum 84 Marmaris 86 Lycian Way 88 Fethiye 90 Ölüdeniz 92 Kayaköy 94 Faralya 98 Kabak 99 Xanthos – Letoon 101 Pınara 102 Patara 103 Kaş 104 Demre 108 Olympos 110 Kumluca / Adrasan 115 Antalya 117

Mersin / Kızkalesi 118 Ankara 120 Cappadocia / Göreme 122 Nemrut 128 Diyarbakır 130 Mardin 132 Hatay 134 Van 135 Doğubayazıt 139 Black Sea 140 Safranbolu 141 Amasra – Samsun – Trabzon 143 Sümela 144 Rize 145 Kaçkar Mountains 146 Georgia 148 Batumi 150 Tbilisi 152 Borjomi 155 Turkish-English Dictionary 157 more info: www.hikeast.com

How to Use This Guidebook Camping

Accommodation Ancient city

Shopping

Bar

Breakfast

Wine house

Dinner

Credit cards accepted

Places a bit more expensive

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Refers to any discount for Hike East users

Activities

Restaurant

 İnternet Wi-Fi

Hike East is a free guidebook bringing tons of great information about traveling in Turkey right to your fingertips- including discounts on all kinds of services throughout the country, from hostel stays to drinks to extreme sports experiences. We provide an easy-to-understand, useful and up-to-date guidebook to make your travels in Turkey as memorable and affordable as possible, and best of all, all this info is completely on the house! You can pick up a print version from any of the awesome hostels, restaurants, and companies featured in Hike East. ...did we mention itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s free? Find us online at www.hikeast.com or on all your favorite social networking sites. Facebook: www.facebook.com/hikeast Tumblr: www.hikeast.tumblr.com/ Twitter: www.twitter.com/hikeast Promotions offered through Hike East are only valid when you show up with the guidebook in hand. To receive the discounts, make a direct booking, not through third-party providers.

Responsible Travel We hope that your travels in Turkey will be eye-opening and full of fantastic discoveries along the way. Turkey is a major destination for travelers across the world, though, and the impact of tourism on the environment has the potential to cause significant damage. Please be responsible as you explore this beautiful country!

• Read about the culture and customs of Turkey; always abide by the local laws and etiquette! • Patronize local small businesses as much as possible • Get to know the friendly and welcoming Turkish people wherever you go • Do your best to learn some Turkish • Always be respectful. Wear appropriate clothing and ask before taking pictures • Don’t litter! • Abide by posted signs

Trekking Tips Turkey has some of the world’s most amazing hiking trails, and we know you can’t wait to get your boots on and get going. To make your experience the best it can be and minimize your environmental impact, make sure to...

• Trek in groups whenever possible • Follow maps and signs- don’t take shortcuts! • Prepare appropriately. Bring enough supplies and plan ahead • Ask local guides for tips and information • Check into the current condition of the trails before leaving • Carry out all your trash with you • Leave the wildlife alone • Never light fires • Only camp where it’s permitted!

Transportation in Turkey By air: Turkey is a big country, and flying is definitely the fastest way to get from place to place, and can be quite cheap if you book in advance. Flights between major cities depart frequently. The national carrier is Turkish Airlines (www.turkishairlines.com) and there are a number of budget providers such as Pegasus Airlines (www.flypgs.com/en/) or Sunexpress (www.sunexpress.com). By bus: Long-distance buses are a common way to get around. Travel times are often daunting, but the fares are cheap and the coaches are comfortable. Many of the longhaul journeys are overnight. Check out carriers such as Varan (www.varan.com) and Pamukkale (www.pamukkale.com.tr). Note that it can be difficult to book ahead; however, it’s nearly always possible to buy a same-day ticket. Reputable companies include Ulusoy (www.ulusoy.com.tr), Nilüfer (www.nilufer.com.tr), and Metro (www.metroturizm.com.tr). By rail: Trains service fewer destinations than buses in Turkey and take longer to arrive, but tend to be cheaper. TCDD is the government operator- their website can be found at www.tcdd.gov.tr. By boat: You can reach many places along the Mediterranean coast and the Sea of Marmara by ferry; additionally, many lines run to Italy and Greece, as well as the Ukraine (across the Black Sea). You can check the schedules online at www.ido.com.tr. By car: Make sure you know how to drive a stick shift if you’re planning on renting a car in Turkey. Note that fuel is expensive and there are often tolls along major roads. You drive on the right side. Transport in cities: Buses, dolmuşes (shared taxis), private taxis, subways, and trams are all common in Turkish cities; ask the locals for tips. Additionally, ferries are a common way of crossing between Asian and European İstanbul.

Useful Websites www.tourismturkey.org

The Ministry of Tourism’s official site

www.turkishdailynews.com

English-language news about Turkey

www.mymerhaba.com

An expat website about everything Turkey

www.seat61.com/Turkey.htm

A great resource for train travel in Turkey www.sehirrehberi.ibb.gov.tr/map.aspx A useful Istanbul city map with roads and transportaition info

www.garaj.org

Find out about Turkish music and shows

www.bugday.org

Info about ecology and sustainability in Turkey

www.istanbulcycles.weebly.com Alternative bicycle tour for İstanbul.

www.gezegence.com

A travel site for Turks and foreigners. In Turkish

www.thegate.com

The website of one of Turkey’s leading English magazines

www.turkishclass.com Learn some Turkish!

www.artwalkistanbul.com Guided Tours for contemporary art galleries

Emergency Phone Numbers

110 Fire

155 Police

112 Ambulance

156 Jandarma (local constables)

DISTANCE CHART

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For the full schedule and line-up, visit us at www.hikeast.com/music

Don’t Miss These Ten Things! 1.

Exploring the awesome and often-overlooked Basilica Cistern

Crossing between Europe and Asia on a ferry in İstanbul

Losing yourself in the winding alleys of the Grand Bazaar

Going out for drinks and dancing near İstiklal Street in Beyoğlu

Eating a kebab, a Turkish favorite

Taking in the spectacular ruins at Ephesus

Soaking in the natural hot springs at Pamukkale

Wandering through the incredible ghost town of Kayaköy

Hiking the Lycian Way

10. Getting an eyeful of the amazing fairy chimneys in Cappadocia

İSTANBUL

Turkey’s largest city and the only one on earth to have been the capital of two different empires (the Holy Roman Empire and the Ottoman Empire), İstanbul straddles Europe and Asia. The ages have known İstanbul by many different names- some of the most familiar being Byzantium and Constantinople. Today, the city center is roughly divided into three parts by the Bosphorus Strait: the comparatively quieter Asian side is dominated by the district of Kadıköy, while the European side is home to historical Sultanahmet and, across a channel, the modern center of Beyoğlu. Nearly every visitor to Turkey will spend time in İstanbul at some point on their journey. You could easily wile away weeks or months exploring all the corners of this fascinating and lively city, but if you’re on a strict time budget, plan ahead and make sure you have time to fit in all the exploring you want to do. Full of history and blended EuropeanAsian-Middle Eastern culture and history, you’re sure to find tons to do!

İSTANBUL

Beyoğlu

Making up the northwestern sector of the city center, Beyoğlu is among İstanbul’s most modern districts; it started out as a Catholic neighborhood across from the Muslim areas of today’s Asian side, and has historically led the charge of Westernization in the city. There’s plenty to see and do in Beyoğlu, both in terms of sightseeing and just soaking in all the culture and tradition İstanbul has to offer.

with all kinds of folks, Turks and travelers, at almost any hour of the day. If any single spot can be called the heart of İstanbul, it’s Taksim Square. Full of restaurants and upscale hotels, the square is also a major transportation hub- you can catch a dolmuş or bus to anywhere in the city from here. Take a look at the Republic Monument which was erected in 1928. Also make sure to head to Taksim Square if you happen to be in İstanbul during a holiday or festival- chances are, that’s where the action is! At the other end of İstiklal you’ll find Tünel Square, home to the second-oldest subway line in the world, second only to the London Underground. It’s also one of the shortest at just over 550 meters; take it from the Karaköy ferry dock up the hill to the end of the pedestrian walkway.

The famous İstiklal Street in central Beyoğlu proceeds from Taksim Square at one end to Tünel Square at the other, with the tiny Galatasaray Square constituting the midpoint. İstiklal is roughly two kilometers long and is first and foremost a pedestrian street; certain types of service vehicles, such as police cars and garbage trucks (as well as the old-fashioned red tram which runs from end to end), can be seen, but nearly all the traffic along its length is on foot. İstiklal is known for fantastic shopping, awesome nightlife, and maybe above all, unbeatable people-watching. It’s packed to the brim

Beyoğlu

İSTANBUL

While in Beyoğlu, take an afternoon stroll through the relatively unknown neighborhood of Cihangir. Considered to be modern İstanbul’s most bohemian area, Cihangir (down the hill from Taksim Square, toward the waterfront) is a maze of small streets and cluttered little shops selling everything from retro clothing to dusty antiques. Cihangir is heaven on earth for bargain hunters and those in search of more alternative and unusual wares than İstiklal has to offer. You can spend your time here getting lost in the winding alleys, sitting at a cafe beside the Bosphorus, or sorting through piles of second-hand clothes on the lookout for deals. By Tünel Square at the other end of İstiklal, see Galata Tower, built in 1348 by the Genoese. Climb to the top of the tower for a spectacular view of the Bosphorus; this is one of the most impressive panoramas you’ll find anywhere in İstanbul.

Getting to Beyoğlu If you’re arriving at the airport, the most straightforward (although not the cheapest) way to get to Beyoğlu is on one of the frequent HAVATAŞ shuttles. Getting to Taksim Square with HAVATAŞ will set you back 13 TL from Sabiha Gökçen Airport on the Asian side, or 10 TL from Atatürk International. Alternately, you can get a bus to Taksim from just about anywhere. The 61B line runs from Beyazıt (near Sultanahmet), the 110 from Kadıköy, and the 96T from Atatürk Airport. Dolmuşes are even more frequent, and depart from just about everywhere in İstanbul to Taksim. If you still hold an AKBİL, be informed that you cannot use it any longer: they have been replaced by the Istanbul Kart, which you’ll buy for 6 TL from most of the kiosks selling newspapers around. This card works almost in all the public transports, and has to be loaded according to the needs (considering that a normal fare is 1,95 TL per ride). If you’re coming from Kadıköy, the fastest way to reach the Galata area is by ferry (1,95 TL with the card, 3,00 TL with jeton); head to the docks and simply look for a boat with the sign “Karaköy.” Heading south to Taksim from Ayazağa or Levent, the subway is your best bet.

İSTANBUL

Beyoğlu

Chillout Cengo Hostel Chillout Cengo is among the city’s most popular and wellknow options for budget traveler. It is centrally located in the hearth of Taksim, just minutes away from busy Istiklal Street and a very short walk to Taksim Square. Friday and Saturday nights here are loud and spirited affairs where you will have no trouble making friends to hit the bars with. All of the best of Beyoğlu bars and clubs are just beyond your front door. Don’t stress out about cutting your night short since the reception is 24 hours a day and there’s a no-lock out policy.

Check in as a Guest, Stay as a Friend

 Hüseyinaga Mah. Atıf Yılmaz Cad. Halas St. No. 3, Beyoğlu +90 212 251 31 48 cengohostel@gmail.com www.cengohostelistanbul.com

Chillout Cengo employs some of the friendliest staff members around. They’re all knowledgeable about the city and can help you with just about anything- insider tips for the best places to go on a rowdy Friday night, the best routes to Sultanahmet for some sightseeing, or restaurant recommendations that won’t break the bank. You’ll also get a free map of İstanbul to help you explore the city on your own. Don’t forget to grab one, because this city is huge! There are 70 beds, so chances are that even if you show up without a reservation at 3 am, they’ll have a place for you to sleep. Choose from a private room (ensuite or with a shared bathroom) or a 6, 8, 10, or 12-bed dorm. You can get free tea all day, and there’s a guest kitchen if you want to prepare your own meals. Otherwise, head to the Chillout cafe next door. The staff at Chillout Cengo pride themselves on keeping the hostel clean- no worries about nightmare bathrooms here. And of course, you’ll be supplied ISCOU with fresh sheets, so there’s no need to lug around a sleeping bag.

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Beyoğlu

İSTANBUL

Chambers Of The Boheme

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Katip Çelebi Mh. Küçük Parmakkapı St. No:13 Beyoğlu +90 212 251 09 31 chambersoftheboheme@hotmail.com www.chambersoftheboheme.com The friendly staff is multi -lingual so you can take the opportunity to ask for precious tips to wander around the city. They also offer some tours around Turkey and they can help you arranging your stay in other places around the country. For any advice you might need, ask to the owner. You’ll love his stories about the history of the building! Rated by Hostelworld as Turkey’s best hostel in 2009, you really can’t go wrong with the stylish Chambers of the ISCOU Boheme. It’s just about as close as you can get to İstiklal Street, and perfectly situated for a wander around Çukurcuma or Cihangir. The management at Chambers of the Boheme knows that they have a majorly impressive reputation to uphold, and they keep the premises spotless. Safety is also a top priority here; there are safe-deposit boxes inside, and the 24-hour reception is always on the ball to make sure that your stay in İstanbul is totally secure.

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The four-bed mixed dorms are simple and cozy, all coming with clean linens. The bathrooms are shared, but tidy and numerous. There are even separate showers so you don’t have to wait around for someone to finish brushing their teeth before you can hop in.Additionally, they offer a discount of 10 percent for groups starting at 10 people. Check out the game room and the barbecue area!

photo: Bijoyeta Das www.bijoyetadas.com

Beyoğlu

İSTANBUL

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Route 39 Ömer Avni Mh. Mebusan Yokusu No: 39, Findikli, Beyoglu +90 212 249 19 01 route39house@gmail.com www.route39istanbul.com

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Located between the characteristic neighborhood of Cihangir and Kabataş, the hostel is a good alternative for those who wants to enjoy Istanbul’s nightlife and then have a good sleep once back to the hostel. Also a very good location in terms of transportation (tramway to Sultanahment, ferry to the Asian side and the islands and few steps away from Istiklal). Chilled and friendly atmosphere and all kind of accommodation options: private en-suite, private shared bathroom, mixed dorms. Amazing terrace with Bosphorous view, where breakfast is served and spontaneous among-guests parties are likely to take place.

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Bunk Hostel Bunk Hostels represent a meeting of two great thingsstyle and affordability. The soon-to-be chain was started by a group of five partners from England Germany, and Turkey with a common vision of classy accommodation in one of the world’s liveliest and artsiest cities. This is anything but your run of the mill, damp-floored place to sling your bags; Bunk prides itself on cleanliness and an upscale feel at a completely affordable cost, ISCOU with touches like clean fluffy towels, marble bathrooms, and free lockers to make you feel like an honored guest.

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Balık St. No. 7, Kamer Hatun Mah., Beyoğlu +90 212 244 88 08 info@bunkhostels.com www.bunkhostels.com Relax on the comfy couches or sunbathe after a long day of getting pleasantly lost in the big city. If your bones feel particularly weary, you can hop into the rooftop jacuzzi with a beer. Not tired? No problem! Bunk’s cafe transforms into a bar after dark, so the party never has to stop. The friendly staff also understands that you may have a brimming nightlife agenda, so there’s no lockout here.

Galata-Karaköy

İSTANBUL

Rapunzel Hostel Five years ago three close friends have created a place for cultural conjunction in the hip area of Istanbul, Galata.

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Within this five years they had many guests from all over the world which gave them the courage and will to make it a better hostel everyday. Rapunzel is recently refurbished in 2014 by the idea of “Do It Yourself” in a building which is over150 years old.

Bereketzade Mah. Bereketzade Camii St. No:3 Galata / Beyoğlu +90 212 292 50 34 info@rapunzelistanbul.com www.rapunzelistanbul.com

They offer not only bright, spacious en-suite rooms with AC but also terrace gatherings, insider tips about concerts, festivals and exhibitions. Wi-Fi, breakfast, maps and a lot more is complementary at Rapunzel. It is a fairy tale at the heart of the city, offering you a cozy and comfortable base from which to explore the unforgettable beauty of Istanbul. Check out the terrace with a great view of theGolden Horn and Galata Tower (a mere one minute walk away).

It has the perfect location anyone can ask for, some steps away from Istiklal Street, but also easily reachable to Sultanahmet with its diverse option of room from single to 6-bed dorms.

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Caupo Hostel Maliye cad. Çelebi st. No:3 34425 Karaköy +90 212 243 86 66 info@caupohostel.com www.caupohostel.com

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You can relax in chilled out common room, complete with a cup of coffee and satellite TV, or catch up with friends and family over the Internet. Wi-Fi Access is also available throughout the hostel. Caupo has a communal kitchen, where you can make yourself a hearty meal or quick snack... Note to mention that most of the Caupo’s services are free of charge like linens, lockers, luggage storage, bookexchange and laundry is also available with a reasonable price.

Caupo is a warm and friendly Hostel that is located in Karaköy, opposite the Galata Tower between touristic areas and great night life. They have a wealth of experience in the industry and know what guests value and need during their stay.

Here you can also find a wide variety of room types according to your budget from ensuite doubles to 8-bed dorms.

Caupo is located in the Heart of old city, a short walk from Karaköy Tram Station and quite close to the attractions of Istanbul, including Dolmabahçe Palace, Galata Bridge, Egyptian Bazaar, Blue Mosque, Beyazıt-Grand Bazaar, and Taksim Square. Although Istanbul’s brilliant night life is on your next door, you can still have a quite sleep after a busy party night in Taksim.

İSTANBUL

Beyoğlu

Cafes, Bars & Restaurants You’ll love the atmosphere of Beyoğlu, full of small cafes, bars and restaurants. Z-Books Cafe Store (Tosbağa St. No:11/A Galatasaray) you can find the books you are not looking for! Grap a delicious cup of coffee and enjoy your discovery. Seratonin Craft & Design (Turnacıbaşı St. No:44/B), charming little place in Çukurcuma selling handicrafts and homemade dishes. www.serotonincraft.com Cafe 26A (Tel St. No:26/A), for fair trade supporters, this place is run by a collective an closer to the heart of Taksim. They offer all sorts of homemade products “without concern for profit” as a way of counterbalancing the destructive influence of major corporations. The cafe is run by a crew of 30 volunteers and also functions as a social space for workshops and screenings. (www.kolektif26a.org)

Uçuncü Mevkii (Öğut St.), in one of the tiny streets behind Istiklal, small locanta with delicious homemade food. Don’t wait for the waiter. Pick the menu, paper and pen, send down your order with the small lift, wait for your food to come up. Parsifal (Kurabiye St. No: 9/A) is a small vegetarian restaurant with moderate prices and alternative-friendly atmosphere. Zencefil (Kurabiye St. No: 8-10) on the same street, is another vegetarian restaurant, in a nice colorful radical chic style and slightly upper-range prices. These are just few suggestions. If you crawl around the small streets departing from Istiklal (on both sides, particularly between Taksim Square and Galatasaray), you’ll find thousands of options for any taste. Every corner is a treasure.

Beyoğlu

İSTANBUL

Nightlife in Beyoğlu The same streets that during daytime host cafes and small lokantas, become theater of one of the most lively nightlife in Europe. İstiklal and the adjoining streets are absolutely the places to go in İstanbul if you’re looking for a night out. Mix with locals and grab yourself an Efes at a chilled out bar, or head to a dance club if you want to get moving. A walk down the main street any time after dark will get you excited to start the party- you’ll see people from all walks of life dressed to the nines and ready for a night on the town. It’s amazing how İstiklal changes its colors come dusk, and what you thought was a street full of shops and restaurants suddenly becomes a line of bar after bar after bar... choose one and get drinking!

Ritim Roof & Pub (Balık Pazarı St.), with its cheap beers, is a meeting place of Erasmus students and locals. They have downstairs table on Balık Pazar and a wonderful terrace at the last floor of the same building. Ritim Galata (Galata Kulesi St. No: 3/C) has the same owners of the Ritim Roof & Bar. This pub is a little bit more chill-out, right in front of Galata tower, a good place to have a seat and eat something at a reasonable price or drink a beer at night enjoing the view on the tower. The Mekan (Atıf Yılmaz Caddesi, No:17A) is a live music venue mostly hosting alternative artists from all around Turkey, among which Luxus and Baba Zula. Kara Kedi Alternative and cheap place, Kara Kedi (Black Cat) is a perfect cafe-bar for a beer in İstanbul’s underground atmosphere. Mostly live performances after 21:00 and no enterance fee ever! recently they are located in Asmalımescit area, but a change is probable, check out their facebook page (facebook.com/Karakedistanbul). Babylon Performance Hall (Şehbender St. No: 3; www.babylon.com.tr), a bit closer to Galata, is one of the major venues in Istanbul. There’s always something happening here, from happy hour to live shows and theme nights! This is also where the major concerts in town are held.

İSTANBUL

Beyoğlu

Leyla Teras This place is a taste of the real Istanbul. If you were in Istanbul before, note that they moved from Bekar st. to some floors below on Mis St.. With frequent performances by local bands and street musicians, as well as rakı nights on the regular, this is the place to be if you’re after a taste of authenticity and liberalism. Check out their Facebook page to see what’s going on! To get there, reach Boş Zamanlar and go to the forth floor. You may see many of the artists who were playing during the day on Istiklal performing on the stage, or some new international amateur band.

Şht. Muhtar Mh. Mis St. No: 6, 3rd floor; Beyoğlu terasleyla@gmail.com facebook.com/pages/Leyla-Teras

Leyla Terras is the place for the promising underground artists of Turkey and not only.

Arsen Lupen Counterculture slightly metal atmosphere and terrace on the top with view on Istanbul. Beers at affordable prices,rich menu of cocktails and a a good place to meet with young locals. This place is ideal to have a quiet chat at sunset or enjoy the concert of some beginner bands on weekends. Just be careful not to miss it! Walk down on Mis st., look on your left until you reach Address Restaurant Bab-ı Ali at number 15. This place

Şht. Muhtar Mh. Mis St. No:15, top floor, Beyoğlu +90 0542 661 53 46 facebook.com/ArsenLupenTeras is actually a quite expensive restaurant but don’ t be scared: you’ll enter there only to take the lift and go up to Arsen Lupen on the 4th floor.

Beyoğlu

İSTANBUL

Barba A newly open vintage-stylish pub with a vast variety of of local and international beers (60 different types). If you prefer a cocktail, ask the staff: they have some secret ones that are not on the menu. A cozy environment perfect for a chat with old and new friends. Don’t be shy, order your favorite beer and join a table. Quite hard to find: when you reach the third floor of the building you enter a place called The Mekan. It is the door on the right behind the curtain. The name of the Bar has an interesting story: apparently the people managing pubs and bars during the Ottoman times were mainly Greeks or non-muslim.

Mis St. No:6 2nd floor Beyoğlu +90 535 471 77 96 barbathepub@gmail.com facebook.com/BarbaPub So the guys delivering the barrels of beers, were non-muslims and were generally called in lingua franca “barba”, probably because of the latin meaning of it: “beard”.

Çukur Mey-Hane Among one of the oldest places in Beyoğlu, this tavern is very central (next to Galatasaray) and at the same time far from the noises and the crowd of Istiklal. Keep your eyes open, this meyhane is not ISCOU easy to spot: it is in the basement. Right place to taste some delicious mezeler in a quiet and suggestive atmosphere, accompanied by some good rakı! Do not try to contact them by email, because they don’t use it. Better to call before showing up. They tend to fill all the tables every night. A must to try: yaprak ciğer (liver leaves!).

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Çukur Meyhane Turnacıbaşı Cad. Kartal St. No: 1/A, Galatasaray / Beyoğlu +90 212 244 55 75

İSTANBUL

Beyoğlu

Bookshops in Istanbul Althogh it is not too easy to find bookshops selling publications in langugaes either than Turkish, on Istiklal Street and Beyoğlu area you’ll find some if you really look for them. The classical reads for travelers in Turkey are Elif Safak and Orhan Pamuk. If you want to break the lines, ask to the bookshops to advise you something new. For the ones who walk in with serious intentions, with Ahmet Altan.

Mephisto Bookshop & Cafe İstiklal Cad. No: 125, Beyoğlu +90 212 249 06 96 www.mephisto.com.tr For avid book readers and bookshop lovers, we suggest you to stop by Mehpisto, right on Istiklal. Here you will find books, music CD’s, Movie DVD’s, books in English and a very upto-date catalogue of Turkish books. On the basement you’ll find all sorts of stationery products and some nice gifts to bring back home. What about an old map of Istanbul for example? On the first floor, you can enjoy a coffee or tea and spend some time observing the frenetic life of Istiklal from above. With a good offer of books in English, this bookshop is particularly advisable for music

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lovers, thanks to the great variety of Turkish music CDs on sale: from folk music, through pop, to jazz and classical music. If Tarkan is the only Turkish star you know, it might be a good idea to push your knowledge about Turkish music a step further. Ask the staff; they are really knowledgeable and they speak English! You can listen to the CD’s before deciding which one to buy. Are you thinking of learning Turkish? Well, this is the right place to look for grammar text books and good dictionaries. You’ll find also plenty of Guide Books in case you are planning to travel from Turkey to somewhere else. The bookshop occasionally hosts authors for book presentations and seminars.

Beyoğlu

İSTANBUL

Shopping in İstanbul Even if you didn’t come to İstanbul with the intention of souvenir shopping, the ubiquitous bazaars and low prices will change your mind in a hurry. The alternative clothing shop Clandestino has four locations throughout the city (including in Kadıköy and Beyoğlu; take a look at their website at www.clandestino.com.tr for addresses and a look at some of their products). Another great choice for stylish and relaxed clothing is Tola Tola, located at Serdari Ekrem Caddesi No. 15/B in Beyoğlu. Both men and women can find great deal on ethnicallyinspired and artful clothes and all kinds of cool accessories here. The latter section makes for particularly good browsing- check out their handbags, hairbands, and gloves, among many others. You can find their site at www.tolatola.com.tr. If you want to dive into the heady experience of bazaar shopping, don’t miss Terkos Pasajı, famous for its dirt-cheap second-hand clothing. Find the passage on the right side of İstiklal Street as you walk toward Tünel from Taksim Square. You can spend a whole afternoon here and leave with armfuls of shirts and such for mere liras apiece. Semt pazarları (neighborhood markets) are another local favorite. Held on various days across the city, these temporary markets are great for buying fruits and vegetables, as well as a variety of other wares. One of the best is the Tuesday and Friday market in Kadıköy, close to Hasanpaşa; on the European side, have a wander through Nüzhetiye Street in Beşiktaş on a Saturday.

Aponia is a very graphic business, brainchild of designer Fatih Dağlı and co-founder Orçun Çetinkaya. It began life in 2009 located in the heart of Istanbul. Aponia caught the public eye in 2012 with the release of the Istanbul - From Aponia - With Love collection, which was warmly received by visitors and locals alike. The company’s bestseller sees the city’s most recognisable features tangled up inside a complex cat’s cradle, with the words “Istanbul. They call it chaos, we call it home”

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Aponia Store

Asmalımescit Mah. Hazzo Pulo Pasajı. No: 108/4E info@aponiastore.com www.aponiastore.com scrawled beneath it, and has become an iconic Istanbul image. Building on the success of this collection, Aponia continues to create new graphics, satisfying their appetite for surprising, and amusing people. Check out their website (www.aponiastore.com) for the new designs.

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Sultanahmet

The oldest part of İstanbul, Sultanahmet is home to the majority of the city’s most well-known and impressive ancient sites. The district is located on a peninsula across a narrow body of water from Beyoğlu- you can cross on a footbridge- and is bounded by three bodies of water; from here, the panorama takes in the Sea of Marmara, the Bosphorus, and the Golden Horn. Sultanahmet is serviced by a tram line which can take you all throughout the peninsula.

Arguably the most famous of İstanbul’s sights, the Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya in Turkish) is a magnificent sixth-century basilica built by the Roman emperor Justinian I and later converted to a mosque in the fifteenth century by the Ottoman conquerers. Only in the last century was it turned into a museum, its present incarnation. Spectacular enough from the outside, the inside of the building is not to be missed either. Check out the fantastic mosaics within.

Topkapı Palace was used as a royal residence by the Ottomans for two-thirds of their 624year reign. Today, it ranks up there as one of İstanbul’s most-visited tourist destinations, and houses such important Muslim relics as the Prophet Mohammed’s sword. There are four separate courtyards to visit, each with a different style and a wide variety of artifacts to view. Linger over the arms collection in the second courtyard or the extensive harem.

Built, like the Hagia Sophia, during the reign of Justinian I, the Basilica Cistern is a lesser-known but just as fascinating facet of Sultanahmet’s historical legacy. Originally constructed in order to ensure the city’s continued water supply in the event of a siege, it was also used as a filtration system for the palace. The slightly creepy atmosphere of the cistern will make you feel like you’ve stepped back to the sixth century; wend your way through the pillars and take a peek at the gigantic resident fish.

Sultanahmet Archaeology enthusiasts will have the time of their life checking out the massive Museum of Archaeology located near Topkapı Palace. Divided into three parts- the Archaeology Museum proper, the Museum of Islamic Art, and the Museum of the Ancient Orient, everything you can imagine related to İstanbul’s dramatic history can be found here. The collection related to Alexander the Great is among the most striking- it includes an adorned sarcophagus which was once believed to belong to the conqueror himself. You’ll also find Sumerian tablets and a host of marble statues. Next to the Blue Mosque and the Hagia Sophia, you’ll find the Hippodrome of Constantinople, so named, of course, because it was built during the Byzantine period. For centuries, the Hippodrome was used as a center of sporting events and social life; unfortunately, the structure did not make it to modern times unscathed, and today there are only obelisks and sculptures still standing. Nevertheless, it’s a must-see while you’re in Sultanahmet. Check out the German Fountain in the adjacent square. Another of the most famous landmarks in İstanbul, the Sultan Ahmet Mosque (usually known as the Blue Mosque) is centrally located on the peninsula. Unlike the Hagia Sophia, it’s still used as a working mosque, so you’ll have to cover up appropriately in

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order to enter. The blue tiles inside lend the building its colloquial title; there are more than 20,000 handmade tiles decorating the interior. Called the world’s shopping oldest mall, the Grand Bazaar is more than worth a visit even if you don’t have anything to buy. You can find absolutely anything here, and spend an afternoon or ten wandering the narrow alleys. The bazaar is primarily known for its spices and Turkish carpets, but jewelry, clothing, and, well, pretty much everything else on earth can be had here too. Time to hone your bargaining skills! Don’t miss a hamam experience while you’re here- after a scrub and massage here, you’ll feel like you’re truly clean for the first time in your life. Çemberlitaş is one of the best and most famous in the area- give them a call at +90 212 522 79 74 to book your experience. If you’re hungry, go straight to the famous Sur Ocakbaşı at İtfaiye Caddesi No. 19, probably the best place in the whole city to get a kebab. Superbly fresh ingredients and a friendly atmosphere!

Sultanahmet

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Bahaus Hostel İstanbul The consistently award-winning Bahaus Hostel in Sultanahmet is just a short walk away from all the major attractions in the area- you can’t get more central than this! They’ve got everything you need for an exciting (and comfortable) stay- hairdryers and free Internet, a DVD collection and free use of the safe deposit boxes. You don’t need to worry about security while you’re here, because it’s a top priority for the staff to make sure that you and your belongings are safe and sound.

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Which is convenient, because you’ll be too busy partying to have time to worry about whether your valuables are safe or not. Winter-time activities such as free movie nights, karaoke nights, and belly dancing nights give way in the summer to good old fashioned drinking and dancing. There’s no lockout, so stumble home anytime you feel like it! Or if you’d rather stay in to drink, never fear- there’s a bar in the hostel.

The dorms are all scrupulously cleaned and extremely comfortable- they’ve even thought of some cool innovations of their own which you’ll wish every hostel included, like privacy curtains for the dorm beds! There’s also a fantastic open-air rooftop terrace where you can enjoy a meal at any time of the day or night and take in the view all around you of the Sea of Marmara and the spreading

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Akbıyık Cad. Bayram Fırın St. No. 11 +90 212 638 65 34 bahausguesthouse@yahoo.com www.bahaushostelistanbul.com

panorama of Asian İstanbul. Of course, they’re always ready for a party at Bahaus, so if you want to grab a drink in the moonlight before hitting the town, you certainly won’t be alone!

Sultanahmet

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Piya Hostel

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Constructed in a renovated police academy, this cute pink building is everything you’re looking for if you like to be close to the action and right in the thick of things. The location couldn’t be better for sightseers, who will appreciate being just steps away from the heart of old Istanbul. You’ll also appreciate the huge breakfasts (with more than ten items available in a morning buffet) and the attention to cleanliness which means you won’t have to deal with the grime plaguing so many hostels.

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Bring your inside voices and positive vibes. Piya Hostel is dedicated to maintaining an atmosphere of respect without discrimination on any grounds.

Akbıyık Camii St. No:22 +90 212 458 20 60 info@piyahostel.com www.piyahostel.com

Dorms are available for 4, 6, or 8 people, as well as one private room. You can also get one of the two apartment rooms with ensuite kitchen and bathroom. Tea and coffee are free for all guests, as well as lockers to store your valuables.

İstanbul Hostel

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Stylish yet simple, İstanbul Hostel is a great choice for budget travelers who value accessibility and good service. With both dorms and privates, İstanbul Hostel is just a short walk from the center of Sultanahmet, ideally located for visiting all of the monuments in historical ISCOU İstanbul.

All the dorms have air conditioning and heating so you can sleep in comfort. The shared bathrooms are clean and tidy, not your typical grotty backpacker fare. There’s a 61-inch TV in the common room with movie

Kutlugün St. No. 35 +90 212 516 93 80 info@istanbulhostel.net www.istanbulhostel.net theater-quality sound, and they show all the latest movies on a regular basis. Wireless is available not only in the lobby but in the rooms as well. İstanbul Hostel is all about comfort and safety- you can feel at home here while surrounded by all the fantastic mosques and bazaars of old İstanbul!

Mosques of Istanbul

by Marion Howa

The silhouette of Istanbul is a fantastic accumulation of giant domes, glass roofs, steel covers, antennas, rusty staircases, cupola, terraces, laundry lines, wild top gardens and thin minarets. When the sun falls, the light turns the landscape horizon into an extraordinary colour, between pink, orange, purple and grey. At twilight, muezzins start to sing. Mosques are beautiful because as you take off your shoes, you feel that you come into a wonderful living-room, with softness of the carpet, powdery light, lively blue ceramics, horizontals suspended chandeliers, and precise marketery on heavy doors. Don’t miss Rüstempaşa Camii , in Eminonu, with its interior almost entirely covered by specifi c Iznic deep blue tiles. Columns, walls, porches, are all carefully decorated, ceramics are detailed with refinement and its horizontal ferforge candelabrum gives an unsuspected volume to the dome. Pass by the secret Sokullu Mehmet Paşa Camii, just behind Sultanhamet, for its

narrow size and neighbourhood atmosphere, and enjoy the elegant relationship between turquoise ceramics and havy stones and its special soft light given by the stained glassed windows. Mosques are beautiful because their sharp presence in the skyline gives an idea of how the religious establishment have marked, curved and settled its power in the cityscape, since 15th century till now. Süleymaniye Camii is a relevant case study for its ‘Kulliye’, name of an urban system invented in early Ottoman Empire. The Kulliye is an organized religious public space usually composed by mosque, hamam, hospital, medresa (Coranic School), kitchen, cemetery, fountain, mental institution. By contrast with the effervescent vitality of the streets, the architecture of the Kulliye is precisely geometrical, wide, clean, and it suggests how space is used a tool to settle a political model of society. As Ottoman establishment had to defy Byzantine times, Mimar Sinan, chief Ottoman architect in the

mid 15th century, during the reigns of the sultan Süleyman the Magnifi scent, Selim II and Murad III, decided to built huge-scale mosques and imposed its dominant position in the Kulliye organization. Mosques are beautiful because you sometimes wonder how it stands. Sultanahmet Camii, named also Blue Mosque, is a complex system of domes and semidomes, which turns the structure invisible thanks to precise knowledge of weight. The domes do not stand on walls anymore but on huge pillars, organized on a geometrical plan (square, hexagon, or octagon), that the visitor sometimes barely guesses. As a consequence, Sinan and his fellow students could open the walls with windows, and let the natural light come inside. He invented also a brilliant acoustic dispositive through which, in order to absorb the sound, he integrated some vases in the walls. Although mosques became castles, their skin has never been much decorated, and their dominant presence has always been balanced

with the social institutions of the Kulliye. What Ottoman establishment settled in Istanbul is an intelligent demonstration of power: they settled mightiness without exhibiting wealth. Mosques are beautiful because they prove that one can recycle old architecture, instead of demolishing it. Küçük Ayasofya Camii worth the trip, not only because of its design inspired the great Ayasofya built few years later, but also for its very economical transformation from being one of the oldest Byzantine church into a humble mosque. You feel that the stones, sleeping under the turquoise carpet, have been used by the time. Today, Istanbul observes a return of religion as the mosques are more and more included in random city planning operations and fi nanced by the government. If architecture is usually a tool of reproduction of a dominant socio-political system, let’s hope that some alternative initiatives will live.

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Kadıköy

A laid-back and artsy suburb on İstanbul’s Asian side, Kadıköy is far less touristy than Beyoğlu or Sultanahmet. Jammed full of shops, restaurants, and bars, many İstanbulites will tell you that Kadıköy is their favorite part of the city. Take the ferry to get here from the European side; frequent services depart from all the docks, notably Karaköy, Beşiktaş, and Eminönü. Browse the lively fish market located at the waterfront, where stall owners shout out prices and enticements for their wares and you can find many a local searching for the best deal in town. Of course, everything is fresher than fresh. If a restaurant is more up your alley, Çiya Sofrası in Caferağa Mahallesi is a good choice- they have great local dishes as well as more international fare. . Try Polka Cafe (Moda Cad. Zuhal St. No:14/C)for an adorable little hole in the wall with kitsch and charm to spare. In accordance with the more chilled out pace of the Asian side, you can start your visit with a walk along the Bosphorus in the cosmopolitan neighborhood of Moda. It’s one of the most pleasant walks in İstanbul- the area is upscale and pretty, with nice views across the water and numerous parks and restaurants scattered along the promenade. Kadıköy’s nightlife has a different feel to it than the wilder and more international crowd you’ll find near İstiklal. Still, this side of the Bosphorus is vastly popular with locals, and you’ll find a number of the city’s insider bars and clubs here, most with a much more “Turkish” feel to them than the expat-populated haunts across the water. Start your night at Kadife Sokak in central Kadıköycolloquially known as “Bar Street,” Kadife is bustling with innumerable bars, most of which feature outdoor seating as well as indoor tables. In particular, look for Arka Oda, which is sure to come up in just about any conversation with an İstanbul-dweller when you broach the topic of their favorite bars. There are frequent concerts, so check out their schedule of upcoming shows at www.arkaoda. com. While in Kadıköy, plan a stop at Sahaf 26A (Caferağa Mah. Sakız St. No:3/1). Run by the same collective which manages Cafe 26A in Beyoğlu, Sahaf is a secondhand bookstore/cafe where profit is irrelevant next to community, cooperation, art, and the organic spread of knowledge. (www.kolektif26a.org) Do not miss our favorite Komşu Cafe (Uzun Hafız st. no 83A, Rasimpaşa) a collective cafe/workshop without a boss, workers and even more interestingly “no price” !

Kadıköy

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Hush Hostel Lounge

Hush Hostel Moda

Recently opened brand new smart hostel in one of the best area of Kadıköy. You will love Moda’s lifestyle, with its cute cafes, home-made food places and view on the Bosphorous. Also this hostel is just few minutes walk away from the port, where you can take the ferry to go to the ISCOU European side of the city. If you had enough of Sultanahmet, just enjoy the view of the historical peninsula from the rooftop terrace of the hostel and enjoy the

Rıhtım Cad. İskele St. No. 46 +90 216 450 43 63 lounge@hushhostelistanbul.com www.hushhostelistanbul.com Convenience is far from ISCOU Hush’s only benefit, though. The building is unique and attractive, with a rooftop terrace and a backyard garden where you can smoke, read in the shade, or commune with the resident pets (three turtles and a number of cats). Although it’s close to all of Kadıköy’s best nightlife, Hush itself is more of a traveler’s meeting point than a loud and crazy party spot- you’ll be able to get a great night’s sleep here.

The first hostel to break new ground on the Asian side of the city, Hush Hostel Lounge is definitely where budget travelers want to be for a taste of the “real” İstanbul. Hush is convenient to all kinds of public transportation- the bus and dolmuş stop is a two-minute walk down the street, as well as the ferry dock, and it’s by far the most suitable option if you have a flight in or out from Sabiha Gökçen airport. Even the famous train station, Haydarpaşa, is only a fiveminute walk away- from here you can catch any east-bound train out of İstanbul, to the far reaches of Turkey and beyond.

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 Caferağa Mah. Güneşli Bahçe Sok: 50/B +90 216 330 11 22 +90 541 285 49 04 moda@hushhostelistanbul.com www.hushhostelistanbul.com atmosphere of the Asian side of Istanbul. In the evenings, the street is full of life, don’t miss it! Ah, did we mention full Turkish breakfast included?

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Kadıköy

Polka Cafe Try Polka Cafe for an adorable little hole in the wall with kitsch and charm to spare. In this tiny and cute cafe you’ll find homemade food, freshly baked cake, an exquisite variety of teas and infusions and you can taste a wonderful Irish Coffee during cold winters. Also the right place to bring your own books and read in silence during the day or if you are looking for a quiet spot far from the noise of the city.

Kadıköy Sahne Newly opened concerts place, it has already become the major venue for this part of the city. It gives space to a wide variety of musical genres. Here you will find all the leading alternative music bands of Turkey. Also, emerging artists with original ideas are given priority. So if you want to explore contemporary Turkey’s music scene you are definitely in the right place. Entrance is usually not free and it is advisable to buy tickets in advance, either from the Sahne or from Biletix (www.biletix.com), which is the circuit through which you can

Moda Cad. Zuhal St. No:14/C +90 216 405 27 48 feridesofugil@hotmail.com facebook.com/pages/POLKA-cafe This cafe is also a meeting point of folk musicians: whenever you pass by, you’ll probably find someone trying to learn Saz (traditional Turkish instrument) or playing violin or improvising some folk Irish music. Bring your instrument and join the band!

Osmanağa Mh. Osmancık St. No: 25/E +90 216 550 04 92 bilgi@kadikoysahne.com www.kadikoysahne.com

buy the entrance for all the main events in Istanbul. Before and after the concert, usually DJ sets take place: perfect opportunity to mingle with the crowd.

Festivals

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Music Akbank Jazz Festival (Istanbul-Ankara-Eskişehir and other cities) : One of the biggest jazz festivals in the world sponsored by a major bank in Turkey. Usually between mid-October and mid-November. www.akbanksanat.com Rock’n Coke (Istanbul): Major Popular rock/pop festival sponsored by Coca Cola , definitely not alternative, but where you can see on the stage famous bands from all over the world. Taking place in one of Istanbul’s suburb in September, with camping option. www.rockncoke.com Efes One Love (Istanbul) : Choosen Europe’s best mid-size music festival. For more info: www.efespilsenonelove.com Rock-A ( İzmir ) This alternative/non-commercial music festival, taking place in July, is definetely our favorite. During the festival you can attend many workshops and listen performances from local bands infront of the beautiful Aegean Sea. Check the website for details www.rock-a.org

Cinema Altın Portakal (Antalya): The Golden Orange (sort of Turkish Oscar Awards) is an international film festival hosted in the city of Antalya, since 1964. Usually in the 2nd week of October. More information can be found in the website: www.altinportakal.org.tr İstanbul Film Festivali ( Istanbul ): Between March and May , a huge international movie festival with several venues all around the city. Please note day time sessions are quite cheap but you need to buy the tickets in advance. www.film.iksv.org Film Ekimi (istanbul): October Film Festival of Istanbul. The programme can be found at: www.iksv.org

Traditional Ahırkapı Hıdırellez Şenlikleri (Istanbul): Traditional welcome-spring festival mostly celebrated by local Gipsys ( called Roman) , best to join the crowds down below Sultanahmet , near the sea side for music and fun. The Festival did not happen last year so check the website to be sure that this year it will be back. www.hidrellez.org Kırkpınar (Edirne): 650 years of traditional oily wrestling games. Every year at the end of june near the city of Edirne. www.kirkpinar.org Yeşil Yayla Festivali (Rize-Artvin): Usually taking place at the end of July in the beautiful mountains of eastern black-sea region, a traditional festival full of food and music. Organized by a non-profit organization called Gola. www.yaylafest.org

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Islands

About twenty kilometers southeast of İstanbul in the Sea of Marmara lie nine islands, dubbed the Princes Islands due to the Byzantine practice of sending problematic princes there to be “taken care of.” Today, the islands are a popular weekend destination for Turks, and many international travelers make the trip as well in order to see the old churches and refined summer homes there. Except for specialty service vehicles, no cars are allowed on the islands, which makes for a pleasant walking environment- have a stroll or a picnic, or go for a ride in one of the horse-drawn carriages. The four largest islands are served by the İDO ferries around ten times per day in the summer; Büyükada (Big Island) is the most popular destination. Most of the ferries depart from the Kabataş dock, down the hill from Taksim Square. The journey takes around 50 to 90 minutes,

depending on which boat you take, and a fixed ticket will set you back 4 TL. Make sure you get to the ferry terminal early if you want a seat with a good view! Take a look at the ferry schedule, which can be found athttp://www.ido.com.tr. Take note that the summer and winter schedules are different, as are the schedules for weekends and holidays. The easiest docks to catch a ferry from are Bostancı and Kabataş; the majority of the boats stop at Büyükada, with a smaller percentage docking at the lesser islands (in order, the stops are Kınalıada, Burgazada, Heybeliada, and Büyükada). The first departure from Kabataş on a typical morning is at 6:50 and the last ferry back to İstanbul from the Big Island is at 22:40 (21:50 on weekends and holidays).

Islands

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Marine House Boutique Hotel Located right in the center of the Big Island, Marine House has a fantastic view of the surrounding Sea of Marmara- sit out on the terrace and take in the scenic beauty all around you. Still, you won’t have far to walk with your bags- it’s only about a hundred meters from the pier, where you can catch a ferry back to the center of İstanbul if you fancy a trip to the city’s historical sites.

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Marine House is kid-friendly, with a whole corner devoted to keeping your young ones occupied while you indulge in more grown-up activities (sipping a beer while you watch the sunset over the water, maybe?). They have films and music for everyone’s tastes.

Recep Koç Cad. No. 8 Büyükada +90 216 382 29 29 info@marinehousehotel.com www.marinehousehotel.com

Tea and coffee are free, so spend a while hanging out in front of the fireplace with a drink or surfing the Internet, which is free here. There are no dorms, but the hotel has thirty private rooms so there should be one ready for you when you arrive. Still, call ahead if possible, as Marine House is definitely a favorite and the islands can be quite busy in the summer high season!

Aya Nikola Boutique Hotel Boasting some of the most romantic rooms in Turkey, Aya Nikola is also among the best located boutique hotels in the country. The traditional carpets, wooden paneling, and antique decorations recall a simpler time, and the wide sun deck will ISCOU give you somewhere to enjoy the feeling of getting back to nature. Backpackers take note: this is more of an upscale establishment- come here if you’re looking for something a cut above the rest in the beautiful and out-ofthe-way setting of the Princes Islands, but not if you’re looking for a cheap place to sling your pack and get partying.

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Yılmaztürk Cad. No:15 Büyükada +90 216 382 41 43 info@ayanikolaotel.com www.ayanikolaotel.com Aya Nikola is open year-round. Each of the private rooms is fully heated in the winter; in summertime, enjoy the organic produce grown on-site. Rooms are available with or without a fireplace; book ahead, particularly for the honeymoon suite!

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Contemporary Art

Istanbul is well known for its incredible historical heritage and old sites. For this reason, many times it is forgotten to mention that the city is one of the best for young contemporary artists. The vibrant Istiklal Street hosts several Contemporary Art galleries, among which the newlyopened Salt, a no-profit organization funded by Garanti Bank hosted inside an imponent six-story 19th century building, which has already become one of the most important cultural complex in Istanbul. Older and more hidden is Mısır Apartmant, which you will find on your right side while walking from Galata towards Taksim. It is indeed apparently a normal apartments building, except for the fact that each one is home of a different Art Gallery, among which CDA Projects, Galeri Nev, and Pi Artworks. On the same street you can visit Arter, (closer to Galata) and you will notice many other galleries hosted by the most important Turkish banks. If you feel like you didn’t have enough, then walk down from Galatasaray Highschool towards the Bosphorous along Boğazkesen Caddesi and simply keep your eyes open: you’ll find plenty of small and medium size galleries and....look up: some of them are not on the ground floor. By the time you’ll get at the end of the street, you will be really close to Istanbul Modern, the largest contemporary art museum of İstanbul. You have no excuses, so just walk just few hundreds meters on your left and pay a visit. Founded in 2004, the museum hosts international and Turkish artists’ collections and temporary exhibitions. Advisable to check the website before to see what’s on. There is also an art book library and a wonderful cafe’ facing the Bosphorous. Enjoy a tea there only if you are willing to break the backpacker’s golden rule and pay 6 TL for it. It is expensive, but quite unique.

ArtWalk Istanbul For all the artists and all the art lovers, guided tours around the Istanbul’s art galleries by GriZine, a digital culture and art platform. The meeting points are: Galatasaray ISCOU Highschool for routes in Galta and Tophane; Milli Reasürans for Nişantaşı and Akareteler Center Point for Akaretler. Meeting Time: 14:00

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Yeni Çarşı Cad: No: 9/3, Galatasaray, Beyoğlu +90 546 06 15 10 hello@artwalkistanbul.com www.artwalkistanbul.com

LGBTT

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LGBTT İstanbul Although Turkish society can be quite conservative in some areas, İstanbul has a range of great options for gay and lesbian travelers. There are some excellent online resources for the LGBTT community in Turkey, including www.lambdaistanbul.org (Turkish only) and www.turkeygay.net. We suggest you to check them out before coming to see the last updates and events.

Frappe Need a rest from the sightseeing before going back to the hostel? Relax on one of the tables outside Frappé. Cute and colorful small cafe bar right at the end of Istiklal, on Zambak Sokak. Karaoke time on Thursdays and Sundays!

Chianti When at the entrance of the building you see some typical Turkish men drinking çay and playing cards, don’t walk away. You are indeed in the right place. Just climb few stairs and at the second floor you’ll find the Chianti Bar, with live music three days a week. Don’t miss the Sanat Müsik night (art music) and join the crowd singing along with the performers (Balo St. No: 31/2).

Mor Kedi Gay and Lesbian cafe on Imam Adnan St. No: 7 on the third floor open from 10 am to midnight. Cozy atmosphere in a slight retro style.

Tek Yön (One Way) One of İstanbul’s longest-running and most popular gay destinations, Tek Yön has a wide customer base. The roomy interior allows for more comfortable dancing space, where you can find great crowds (particularly on the weekends) and listen to a selection of mainly Turkish music. Among Tek Yön’s most unique features is their no-women-allowed policy. Compared to straight clubs the prices may seem a little expensive, but if you’re willing to splash out a bit for a fantastic and exclusive experience, this is where you want to be. Check it out for yourself at Sıraselviler Caddesi No: 63 / 1 in Beyoğlu. Only for gay men.

Tours

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A professional guide can take straight you to İstanbul’s best-kept secrets. Many companies operating out of the city also run tours to the rest of Turkey, so if you want an insider view of the best the country has to offer, consider booking with one of them. If you are still on the alternative side, check www.istanbulcycles.weebly.com, for a different way to explore the city on two wheels.

Before Travel Turkey Family-runned business offering a wide variety of tours, appropriate for “professional” travelers who want to find company for their journey and at the same time avoid the classic touristic tours. The two brothers of Before Travel Turkey will guide you through the beauties of this country, share all the stories you need to hear about the places you are visiting and helping you to get the ISCOU best prices all around the country.

You can ask for a customized tour or join the pre-planned ones. In Istanbul they offer Old City Tours, Bosphorous Tours, visits to Istanbul’s palaces and islands during different time of the day. In Turkey, you can rely on them for trips to Troy, Capadocia, Gallipoli, Ephesus,

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Sultan Ahmet Mah. Akbıyık Cad. No: 96/A Sultanahmet +90 212 638 08 06 info@beforetravelturkey.com www.beforetravelturkey.com Pamukkale and other special tours. Just walk in their office or call them if you don’t find what you need on the website. Before Travel’s brothers always have something new to propose! They also offer car rental service and Capadocia balloons trips. In case you would like to have a customized tour, just go to their website and tick the places you want to visit, choose your starting point, the kind of accommodation and transportation you want and add any other special requests you might have. Great reviews on Trip Advisor! Check them out!

Tours Bonita Tour

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Akbıyık Cad. No:13, Sultanahmet +90 212 638 52 76 info@tourbonita.com www.tourbonita.com

Bonita offers some of the most well-planned and professionally executed tours on the market in Turkey. They’re particularly ISCOU good at taking your interests and translating them into an excursion that you’re guaranteed to love, and have a number of pre-set packages which cater to certain niches. For example, archaeological tours will lay bare for you the past of this

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fascinating country, while those with an interest in religious history will love the Seven Churches tour.

Magnaura Tours Magnaura Tours has two oﬃces in İstanbul, one in each of the city’s major tourist areas- Beyoğlu and Sultanahmet, so you can easily drop by and ISCOU have a chat with one of the friendly and professional operators.

Cankurtaran mah. Kutlugun st. No:35 Sultanahmet +90 212 258 28 55 www.magnauratours.com info@magnauratours.com

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Tamzara Tur In operation since 1989, Tamzara has plenty of experience bringing travelers to the forgotten places of Turkey- they specialize in getting you off the well-beaten tourist track and instead on the path to adventure and less-known spots of natural beauty. ISCOU

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Yeniçarşı Cad. Kalkan Han No. 36/4 +90 212 251 98 64 bilgi@tamzaratur.com www.tamzaratur.com

İSTANBUL

Around

The popular Bosphorus cruises departing from the Eminönü dock are an ideal way to see İstanbul from a unique vantage point. Usually lasting about an hour and a half, the cruises will take you north up the strait and give you a terrific view of scores of the city’s most famous sights, including Topkapı Palace, the Maiden’s Tower, and Beylerbeyi Palace. Çengelköy (meaning “hook village”) is a pretty little neighborhood in the Asian district of Üsküdar. Well-known among the locals for its charming coastline, Çengelköy boasts an array of waterside cafes and restaurants, as well as alluring little teahouses where you can wile away a long afternoon of conversation. You can get here by taking the ferry from Eminönü or Beşiktaş. Located on the European side of the strait, Arnavutköy (meaning “Albanian village”) is a today a classic neighborhood in the modern district of Beşiktaş. Originally a Greek settlement, Arnavutköy was actually predominantly populated by Jewish settlers throughout most of its history. Check out the wooden mansions which date from the Ottoman period, as well as the numerous fish restaurants along the coast.

Another worthwhile daytrip takes you to Polonezköy, founded by Polish settlers in the mid-nineteenth century. Currently there are around a thousand permanent residents, of which roughly forty speak Polish as their first language. Investigate the Polish history all around the village, including churches and an interesting cemetery. One of the best stops for those intrigued by the unique roots of the place is the Memorial House of Zofia Rizi. If you’re keen to get a tan or go for a swim without busing it all the way down to the Mediterranean coast, have no fear: there are some great beaches right near İstanbul. Two of the best are Şile and Kilyos, both on the Black Sea coast and accessible by bus or ferry from the city center. They’re liable to be a bit crowded in the summer, but the beaches are well-maintained and the water is perfect for a refreshing dip.

Kıyıköy

KIRKLARELİ

Up for a two-three days out of the noisy crowd of Istanbul? From İstanbul’s Esenler Otogar hop on a bus to Saray or Vize and then from there to Kıyıköy, a small fishing village on the coast of Black sea around 160 Km north from Istanbul, embraced by two rivers and facing the sea. Here you can enjoy the typical old wooden houses and nice small beaches, relaxing and quiet during low season, extremely crowded in July and August and spring bank holidays (so plan your trip according to this and avoid it during high season). There are many small home pensions that you will find once you are there. Enjoy your two days outside the big city sunbathing and eating good fish. A good place to have a good fish dinner? Walk you way to Erkin’in yeri, near the harbor, a hut hosting a delicious fish restaurant. A hint? Try the shrimps on butter casserole.

Necip Usta

Ayanikola Pansiyon Looking for a place to stay overnight in this tiny village? Check out Ayanikola Pansiyon, near the Aya Nikola Manastırı, which offers camping place and ISCOU colorful bungalows. There is also a restaurant, with quite reasonable prices. After your meal, chill out in their big garden near the river and enjoy the

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Cute restaurant and pension offering good meze and fish. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The owners of the place are really friendly: don’t be intimidated by the fact that they don’t speak English and improvise some Turkish! Enjoyed the dinner? Try the breakfast!

Kümürluk Mevkii, Mesut St. Kıyıköy, Kırklareli +90 288 388 60 68 +90 535 689 88 08 facebook.com groups/40328782546/

İnfront of the Aya Nikola Manastırı, Kıyıköy, Kırklareli +90 542 407 09 25 www.ayanikolapansiyon.com peacefulness. Nice friendly owners who don’t use email so you’ll have to ring them at their mobile phone in case you need to contact them.

İznik

Iznik is an historical town, around 77 kilometres south from Bursa, famous for its history and its traditional tiles production. The town lays by the İznik lake, surrounded by fertile nature and hills, so it is a good trip for both nature and cultural heritage lovers. The history of İznik goes back to the Hellenic years. The old name of the town is Nicaea, well known for the Frist and Second Councils of Nicaea in the early years of the Christian Church and for being the capital of the omonimous empire and later the capital of Selçuk Empire. Nicea was also the interim capital of the Byzantine Empire, of which it still keep interesting ruins.

There is also an interesting Roman Theatre under renovation and an old hamam which is being renovated (with not too much touch) and will be opened as a museum. It is also worth to visit the city museum, where some interesting pieces of history are kept. We also suggest to just wonder around and have a look at all the small mosques and medresses around. If you are visiting on summer, also enjoy the lake side and give it a swim! İznik is reachable by bus from Bursa and Yalova. If you are coming from Istanbul, you can get to Yalova with the direct Deniz Otobus from IDO company.

İznik

İznik Tiles İznik pottery, named after the town in western Anatolia where it was made, is a decorated ceramic that was produced from the last quarter of the 15th century until the end of the 17th century. The town of İznik was an established centre for the production of simple earthenware pottery with an underglaze decoration when in the last quarter of the 15th century, craftsmen in the town began to manufacture high quality pottery with a fritware body painted with cobalt blue under a colourless lead glaze. The meticulous designs combined traditional Ottoman arabesque patterns with Chinese elements. The town became a major center with the creation of a local faïence pottery-making industry during the Ottoman period in the 17th century (known as the İznik Çini, Çin meaning China). Iznik tiles were used to decorate many of the mosques in Istanbul designed by Mimar Sinan. However, this industry declined in the 18th century and İznik became a mainly agricultural minor town in the area when a major railway bypassed it in the 19th century. Currently the style of pottery referred to as the İznik Çini is to some extent produced locally, but mainly inKütahya, where the quality – which was in decline – has been restored to its former glory.

Eşref Eroğlu Atölyesi Wounderful place where to admire the amazing Iznik tile art, called “Çini” in Turkish. The founder of this atelier, Eşref, was the one who took back the famous tradition of original porcellaine and tiles to the town, thanks to the lessons of Faik Kırımlı, the last master of Iznik tiles. This is were the very first workshop ISCOU after the disapperence around 300 years ago of the tradition took place in 1985, and it is now an important center of traning, carring

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Eşrefzade mh. Eşref Eroğlu st. No:26 +90 224 757 24 46 info@iznikcini.com.tr www.iznikcini.com.tr around 200 workshops a year. As for now, here the tiles are produced the traditional style in the only wood-klin of its kind in the whole Turkey. Check out their workshops on www.iznikcini.com.tr .

Çamlık Motel Restaurant A good standard Hotel, but dipped in a pretty pleasant setting: pine trees around, garden facing the lakeside with wonderful view at sunset. The beach is only 100m away. The hotel also hosts a good restaurant serving traditional food from the area. The must-try is the ISCOU catfish from the lake, bettwer when enjoyed with some Rakı. 24 en-suite rooms ( very clean bathrooms, with hot water and hairdryer), with AC,

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Sahil Yolu (Coastal Road) – İznik +90 224 757 13 62 info@iznik-camlikmotel.com www.iznik-camlikmotel.com television and breakfast included. The hotel also owns a decent sized olive garden, from which every November olive oil is produced.

Çanakkale / Troy

Originally settled around 3000 BC, Çanakkale is the seat of millennia of human history. Although numerous ancient civilizations have occupied the region through the years, the name most commonly associated with its former inhabitants is Hellespont. Noting the strategic location of the city on a map, it should come as no surprise that this area has been heavily contested; it stands just on the seafront, guarding the narrow passage toward the Sea of Marmara and on to İstanbul.

Many visitors arrive in Çanakkale for a sole purpose: to tread in the footsteps of mythical heroes like Achilles and Hector, the warriors of Homer’s Iliad. Çanakkale is the closest modern city to the position of legendary Troy, and you can still make the 30-kilometer trip south to see the ruins left behind by nine destructions and reconstructions. Poorlyexecuted archaeological digs in the late 19th century caused some damage to the remains, but there’s still a ton left behind to fascinate the visitor, including a section of a wall from Troy IV, the stage in which historians suppose the Trojan War may have taken place. Çanakkale itself has taken advantage of the booming Trojan War tourism by erecting a

massive wooden horse by the harbor. Feel free to climb up the ladders underneath and pretend you’re about to sack a city! As you would expect from such a historical place, there are several museums for those interested in getting a deeper understanding of Çanakkale’s previous incarnations. The Archaeological Museum on İzmir Caddesi is of particular note; study the prehistoric pottery and relics, nearly all of which were discovered in the surrounding countryside. For a hearty meal to top off your exploring, try the elegant seafront Maydos Restaurant (Yalı Cad. No:12). If you are looking for a quiet place to have a rest, stop by Yalı Han (Yalı Cad, No:59) and enjoy a coffee in a cute relaxing atmosphere. Çanakkale is well-connected with the rest of Turkey; there are flights from İstanbul three times a week and buses are much more frequent, most of them stopping to let off passengers at the central ferry harbor.

Gallipoli Brits, Aussies, and Kiwis will already be familiar with the tragic history of Gallipoli. During World War I, Allied forces attacked this strategic location in the Battle of the Dardanelles, so named because it took place on the northern bank of the Dardanelles Strait. The intention was to knock the Turkish forces out of the war, but what resulted was a staggering loss of life on both sides: a third of the casualties were Turkish, the rest Allied troops, with the total death toll exceeding 130,000. The battle became one of the most important in Turkish history, as well as for Australians and New Zealanders, who celebrate ANZAC Day on April 25th to memorialize the 1915 landings. Indeed, many Antipodeans make a point of visiting the battlefields of Gallipoli on this date in order to take part in the rituals

ÇANAKKALE

of remembrance at Anzac Cove, flanked by hundreds of their countrymen. The area is dotted with memorials erected in honor of the soldiers on both sides of the battle. There are separate cemeteries and memorials for British and Australian troops, French troops, New Zealand troops, and of course the Turkish men who lost their lives at Gallipoli. For a moving reflection on the place’s bloody history, walk from Anzac Cove to the Arıburnu Coastal Memorial, inscribed with Atatürk’s declaration that the Allied soldiers who died on Turkish soil are considered native sons as well. To visit the battlefields, take the ferry from Çanakkale across to Eceabat. From there, you can ask for current dolmuş routes or tour the area on foot.

Çanakkale

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ANZAC House A founding member of the Turkish Youth Hostel Organization, ANZAC House operates with over 20 years of experience in the hostelling business. The accommodation is particularly geared toward budget travelers who come to Çanakkale with the aim of taking in the legacy of the historic battles fought in the surrounding land, and as such, they specialize in providing affordable, simple rooms as well as a wealth of information.

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Cumhuriyet Meydanı No: 61 +90 286 213 59 69 hasslefree@anzachouse.com www.anzachouse.com There are rooms for every style of shoestring traveler here- dorms, singles, or doubles. You can find all the facilities you’ll need to make your stay comfortable and straightforward, including Internet, heating, and international phone services.

Hassle Free Travel Agency In association with ANZAC Hostel, Hassle Free operates out of the same building, which really couldn’t get any more central- it’s just by the harbor in downtown Çanakkale, close to everything. The great majority of tours offered by Hassle Free are focused on Gallipoli and the World War I battlefields, although they also run several tours to Troy. Many travelers stop by in person and begin their tour right from the city, but there is also the option to depart from İstanbul (the İstanbul office is located Nakilbent Caddesi in Sultanahmet).

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Cumhuriyet Meydanı No: 61 +90 286 213 59 69 hasslefree@anzachouse.com www.anzachouse.com If you’re interested in World War I, you shouldn’t miss out on a trip with Hassle Free; they’ll take you on a unique excursion during which you’ll approach the bay across the strait north of Çanakkale just as the Allied troops did. Making the same landing will be moving enough for anyone with an interest in the history of the war, but you’ll be extra grateful for the presence of a professional guide who can explain, with reference to the geography, exactly what happened and why.

Çanakkale Yellow Rose Pension

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Yellow Rose Pension offers dorms, single or double room option and is one of the better budget accommodations in the area. It has also an ideal location, just a minute or two from the ferry port where the buses from Istanbul drop you off.

Kemalpaşa Mh. Aslan Abla St. N: 5 +90 286 217 33 43 yellowrosepensıon@hotmail com www.yellowrose.4mg.com

This pension is simple and quite anonymous. However, it has a spacious garden with tennis table, luggage deposit and laundry service. The area is actually interesting to visit with a guide, since it is the best way to get to know the history of the battles. ISCOU In case you feel like investing some money in it, consider joining one of the organized daily tours offered by Yellow Rose to Gallipoli and Troy, with visits to all the main archaeological sites

and the memorial museums in company of professional English-speaking guides. Every night, after the visit to Gallipoli, screening of Gallipoli documentary and Gallipoli movie with Mel Gibson in his young days.

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The pension is usually closed in low season and probably for this reason it has no heating system. Bring with you some warm clothes, as it could get quite chilly in the spring nights.

Assos

ÇANAKKALE

Assos / Behramkale Assos faces the Greek island of Lesvos and lies roughly 20 kilometers off the Çanakkale-İzmir highway. The town is actually in two parts, and you may hear it referred to as either Assos or Behramkale, both of which appear on road signs. The lower coastal section, which tends to be exceedingly expensive, is connected with the older village at the top of the hill by a steep and narrow road.

The upper village is characterized by cobbled alleyways and old stone buildings, lending it an antique charm. For a taste of the town’s ancient history, walk to the top of the hill above the old village and take a look at the Temple to Athena, built in the sixth century BC.

Assos Kadırga Hotel CO

IS U Two kilometers east of Behramkale, in the quieter and more affordable town of Kadırga Koyu, you’ll find the Assos Kadırga Hotel. It’s perfect for travelers looking for a cheaper alternative to the expensive lodgings in Assos, and provides excellent access to some fantastic beaches. The water here is quite cold and crystal clear, ideal for a dip after sunbathing. Look out for the huge tuna fish jumping out in the sea! D

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You can get some fantastic seafood at the Assos Kadırga, freshly caught. Most dishes

Assos Kadırga Koyu +90 286 721 70 41 rezervasyon@kadirgamotel.com www.kadirgamotel.com are accompanied by organic vegetables grown in the village. While you’re in the area, head 9 kilometers from the main road to Babakale, the westernmost point in mainland Asia. Affordable accommodation is limited, but it’s a great place to grab a bite to eat at one of the many spectacular seafood cafes along the water.

Assos

ÇANAKKALE

Son Gemi Camping A hidden gem near Assos, Son Gemi is an outdoorsy, welcoming place to kick off your shoes and soak in the sunshine. They’ll provide you with a place to pitch your tent and offer you some tasty food from the offbeat cafe, where you can put your feet up and listen to some alternative tunes. The water’s perfect, bluer than blue and always inviting for a swim or a ISCOU fishing trip; the managers of Son Gemi can also help you to arrange diving trips if you want to take a look from under the waves! Or head straight to the Rakı Table with the aid of your GPS; it’s located at 39º28’00” 26º12’29”.

Unfortunately, there’s no public transport to Sokakağzı, but you can take the dolmuş running twice a day from Ayvalık to Gülpınar; get out at the turn for Koyunevi, and take advantage of the free ride offered from there by Son Gemi (call ahead for this service). Take note that the dolmuşes run less frequently during the winter months.

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Sokakağzı - Ayvacık +90 286 723 40 09 hakmata@gmail.com www.songemicamping.com

ÇANAKKALE

Bozcaada

One of Turkey’s two Aegean islands, Bozcaada is a favorite holiday destination for İstanbullus looking to take a break from the stress of the megalopolis. As a result, pretty little hotels and boutiques are springing up like wildflowers across the island, lending a fresh charm to the antique houses and cobblestone streets.

expect, numerous winehouses and bars are scattered across the island; try Corvus, Talay, or Çamlıbağ; the latter will give you a tractor vineyard tour with the purchase of a large bottle of wine. If you are looking for a good restaurant and Turkish meze we suggest to stop by Şişman Cafe & Restaurant (Sakarya St. No:4).

The forty square kilometer island (formerly known as Tenedos, a name you still may hear) is short on historical sights, apart from the impressive and well-preserved castle which was used by Venetians and Byzantines, among others. No worries, though- that just means that you’ll have more time to stroll around the town’s quaint alleys or sunbathe on the beach. The water is cold by Aegean standards, perfect for a cooling swim which will refresh you doubly after a morning of walking around in the sun. The seafood restaurants by the harbor are excellent but quite expensive; for more modestly-priced meals, search the back streets or hop a dolmuş 20 minutes south to Ayazma Beach.

To reach Bozcaada, you’ll need to take the car-accessible ferry from Geyikli Yükyeri Port, a little south of Çanakkale. One-way tickets aren’t sold, but the return tickets are flexible, and you aren’t required to settle on a date for your voyage back to Çanakkale. You can find the ferry schedule at ;

Bozcaada is justly famous for its wines, which are locally produced and widely available. The tradition of winemaking has been in place for thousands of years; ancient coins from the area, in fact, depicted bunches of grapes! As you might

Bozcaada

ÇANAKKALE

Bozcaada Camping Bozcaada Camping is located five kilometers south of the harbor, reachable by the dolmuşes making the trip every twenty minutes. Just a few hundred meters from the island’s sandy southern beaches, it’s a sanctuary of peace and relaxation. ISCOU You can pitch your own tent or hire one if you’ve come without. Alternately, you can park your RV (multiway plugs are available) or opt for a bungalow.

Sulubahçe, Eski Kule Mevkii +90 286 697 04 42 +90 535 43715 16 campingbozcaada@gmail.com www.campingbozcaada.com Breakfast, snacks, and all sorts of drinks- including alcohol- are available for purchase.

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Mavi Boutique Otel Tucked away down a pretty little street, Mavi Boutique Otel is a picturesque and welcoming little place. They have a total of fifteen beds in seven rooms- a single, two triples, and four doubles. Each room is bright and clean, with the allISCOU important air conditioning and 24-hour hot water. When you’re finished wandering the town,

Alaybey Mahallesi Murat Bey St. No: 19 +90 286 697 02 19 +90 507 741 05 76 info@mavibutikotel.com www.mavibutikotel.com

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you can head to the garden area, a beautiful little spot with climbing vines and flowers, perfect for relaxing with a good book.

Nar Adaevi

Nar Adaevi is in the center of Bozcaada, hosted by an amazing Greek house located in one of the most beautiful and historical street of Republic Avenue also know as the Greek district. The house is one of the most beautiful example of architecture of the island with the most beautiful ISCOU and popular restaurants and Art and Painting exhibitions surrounding it.

Cumhuriyet Mah. İstiklal St. No: 13 +90 286 697 00 08 bilgi@narbozcaada.com www.narbozcaada.com Don’t oversleep or you’ll risk skipping the delicious breakfasts with fresh crops of their Vineyard.

ÇANAKKALE

Gökçeada

Turkey’s largest island, stunning Gökçeada is a picturesque Aegean heaven close to Çanakkale. It was originally called Imbros in its former incarnation as an Athenian colony, and although the island was ceded to Turkey in 1923 as part of the Treaty of Lausanne, some ethnic Greeks remain in their ancestral homes and the local culture is tinged with the customs of their neighbors to the west. Gökçeada is a paradise for divers, with numerous scuba shops and companies offering diving lessons as well as equipment. In addition, the island is home to the country’s first underwater park. Beaches, too, are abundant; try the longest and sandiest, Pınarbaşı Beach, or Aydıncık Beach for bigger waves and better surfing. After a long day of hitting the beaches, stop by Yukarı Kaleköy for a coffee at a breezy coffeehouse- try Mustafa’nın Kayfesi (Yukarı Kaleköy Kilise Meydanı). Camping is possible in many places on Gökçeada- just use common sense! However, if you’re looking for a comfortable bed, Kalimerhaba Pension (Kaleköy Barbaros Cad. No:258) is a good bet. Breakfast is included at this clean and tasteful budget guesthouse, and better yet, you’ll get a 10% discount with Hike East. For a more upscale option, you can check out Zeytindalı Hotel (Zeytinli Village No:168), which offers a touch of luxury as well as nice views.

As a popular tourist destination, it’s relatively easy to reach Gökçeada. If you’re in a hurry, you can catch a plane from İstanbul to the centrally located airport on the island. Otherwise, ferries from Çanakkale or Kabatepe will be a cheaper way to travel to and from the mainland. Gestaş (www. gestasdenizulasim.com.tr) tends to be the preferred ferry line. You will land roughly four kilometers from the island’s capital of Merkez; if you don’t have your own transportation, minibuses are available to take you the rest of the way.

Gökçeada

ÇANAKKALE

Yakamoz Motel & Restaurant Yakamoz boasts some of the best views in all of Gökçeada. The terrace restaurant in particular is the ideal place to watch the sun sinking after a busy day of splashing in the waves or tanning on a sandy beach.

The inspired dishes offered at the attached restaurant commonly feature olive oil or seafood, both locally harvested and lovingly prepared. You’d be hard-pressed to find fresher ingredients or a better view to enjoy while taste-testing delicious Turkish mezes!

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The motel features 20 rooms with a total 50-person capacity; choose from a double, a triple, or a quadruple room, each with hair dryers, air conditioning, and ensuite bathrooms. Service with a smile is an important tenet of Yakamoz’s success, and all of the employees will be ready to help you with anything that might make your stay on Gökçeada more pleasant, especially recommendations for where to go and what to see while you’re in town.

Yukarı Kaleköy - Gökçeada +90 286 887 20 57 yakamozselcuk@gmail.com www.gokceadayakamoz.com

on accommodation

Surf Eğitim Merkezi

The accommodation is rustic and natural, with a fresh, pure charm. The stone architecture and the sea views from each room will endear you to the place immediately, and the organic food served up at the adjoining restaurant will further boost your impression. Happy surfing!

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Newbies to surfing should consider taking a lesson, which are offered in 1, 6, and 10 hour increments. But classes aren’t only for beginners, and more experienced surfers may also benefit from advanced lessons with Surf Eğitim Merkezi’s professional instructors. If you’d rather go it alone, you can still rent surf equipment from the well-supplied shop.

Çınarlı Mah. Aydıncık Mevkii, Gökçeada +90 286 898 10 22 surf@surfgokceada.com www.surfgokceada.com

The Surf Eğitim Merkezi (roughly translated as Surf Education Center) is a terrific one-stop-shop. They offer not only windsurfing and kitesurfing services but also accommodation (and, impressively, were the first company in Turkey to provide the combination), so you barely have to step out of your room to start organizing your day around some wave-filled adventures.

during low season & on weekly stays during high season

BALIKESİR

Ayvalık

The little town of Ayvalık, facing the Greek Aegean island of Lesvos, is a sleepy seaside rest stop perfect for an afternoon tour on foot or simply wiling away several hours indulging in some thankfully toutfree shopping. It’s a picturesque location, surrounded by rolling hills with pine and olive tree groves- indeed, one of Ayvalık’s biggest claims to fame is rooted in its production of high-quality olive oil. Speaking of local foods, don’t leave without trying an Ayvalık tostu, a pressed sandwich with sucuk, cheese, sausage, and condiments. Inhabited by Greeks until 1922, Ayvalık became one of the many towns to participate in the vast population exchange between Greece and Turkey. Keep a sharp eye out and you can spot vestiges of its lost heritage in some of the crumbling buildings. Hike to the Devil’s Banquet, an outcropping with spectacular views of the town at sunset.

Visit Taksiyarhis Church, built in 1873, for a view of the most important feature of the town’s religious landscape. The marble inside makes a stunning backdrop for the reliefs depicting the life of Jesus. If you have time to spare, consider giving the Moonlight Monastery and Saint Nicola Church a look as well. Ayvalık is also known for its world-class music academy for violinists and cellists, as well as for the Harvard-affiliated Koç University summer program which brings students here to study the Ottoman language.

Ayvalık

BALIKESİR

Taksiyarhis Pension İsmetpaşa Mah. Maraşal Çakmak Caddesi No. 71 +90 266 312 14 94 info@taksiyarhispension.com www.taksiyarhispension.com There’s a common kitchen available for guest use if ISCOU you prefer to cook your own food, although the owners can prepare a delicious breakfast for you for ten Turkish lira if you prefer. Maybe you’d like to sample some of the dishes at the local restaurants in Ayvalık- no problem, because Taksiyarhis is centrally located, only 500 meters from the main square, and the proprietors will be only too happy to recommend their favorite eateries. The central location also makes it easy to reach the beaches nearby, and catching a dolmuş to Sarimsakli or some of the closer shores is a straightforward endeavor.

Taksiyarhis is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful pensions you’re likely to come across. On entering this 140-year old stone and wooden building, you’ll feel as though you’ve stepped into a special kind of paradise on earth- the name Taksiyarhis, which comes from a name given to archangels, is definitely appropriate here. The three terraces and all of the common spaces are tastefully decorated with bright throws and comfy pillows; stained-glass windows and whimsical wall decorations complete the picture.

Choose from the dorm room or a range of privates; all have shared bathrooms due to the age of the building, but they’re spotless and you’ll only have to share with one or two other rooms. No matter where you choose to sleep, you’re guaranteed to have air conditioning.

GREEK ISLAND

Lesvos/Mytilini

Lesvos / Mytilini Birthday place of many poets and writers of the Ancient Greece, Lesvos (or Mytilini), the third biggest Greek island, still maintain its cultural charm and the beauty of its fertile land. Olive trees and pine forests cover most of the hills and crystal clear sea kisses the shore. Lesvos, which history goes back to the third millennium B.C. has a population of around 80.000 thousands people and is built on the ruins of its ancient times. The island is very famous for its Ouzo ( Greek liquor similar to the Turkish RakÄą), its ceramic and wood handcrafts. Museums and Parks Donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t miss the Barbayanni, one of the famous factory of Ouzo Museum, in Plomari. Also interesting is the Museum of olive oil in Gera Gulf, where you can see the way oil has been produced along the history. Absolutely a must, for its uniqueness in Europe, is the Petrified Forest: a spectacular natural phenomenon due to volcanic activity. The forest covers 15.000 hectares and is estimated to be 20.000.000 years old. Around the island Mytilene is the capital of the island, a moderately lively town with almost nothing left of the old times, but still worth to visit. Molivos, north of the island, is the most interesting town in terms of cultural attractions, with its traditional architecture and the Gattilusi Castle. To put up your tent close to the town, head to Molivos Camping. If what you are looking for is some rest on the beach, head to Skala Eressos, a small town hosting summer resorts but also isolated beaches. For the ones who were guided by the interest for the legendary school of Sappho, Eressos, her birthplace, is the right place to go. Here, lesbians from all around the world are coming every summer to enjoy the Greek sun. To discover more about the ancient past of the island you can visit the Archeological Musem of Mytilene. Towards the South, you may also admire interesting ruins in Epano Skala and Agios Therapon. Renting a car is a cheap and practical choice to travel around the island and to move freely around. For car rental, hotel booking and tickets to other Greek island and Athens, call up Fotis Tour or pass by their offices just in front of the harbor. Ask for Fatih, very helpful and multilingual: speaks English, Greek and Turkish. Fatih: +30 69 40 77 5353

Lesvos/Mytilini

GREEK ISLAND

The island is served by an airport with international routes, but if you are coming from Turkey and want to save some money you’d better go by the sea. Lesvos is easily reachable through a ferry from Ayvalık. Ferries are frequent during the high season, while in low season they are just 3 or 4 days per week. If you are traveling from Turkey to Lesvos contact Jale Tour, just in front of Ayvalık port: ferryboats service to the Greek island for 30 Euro round trip (1 and half hour each way). For Turkish citizens, you can contact Jale Tours for easy visa.

Jale Ferryboats Ayvalık Port +90 266 331 31 70 info@jaletur.com www.jaletur.com

Kouitou Hotel Kouitou (Kuytu in Turkish “hidden” or “canny”, used also in Greek language only in this island) is a unique art hotel located on the beautiful island of Lesvos, just a short walk to the beautiful beaches of Skala Eressos. This place is definitely our favorite in the island. The Guesthouse is structured on two floors facing a cute internal courtyard. Here you can find also a nice Cafe with honest prices and some good home-baked cakes. Each and every of the 15 room is designed and decorated with a different theme by Alex, international graffiti and owner of the place to together with Vaso. Despite the very affordable rates, the ISCOU rooms are almost luxurious for backpackers standards: fridge, fan and en-suite bathroom.

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Skala Eresos +30 225 305 33 11 kouitou.hotel@gmail.com www.kouitouhotel.com

Alibey Island

Otherwise known as Cunda, Alibey Island is connected to Lale Island and Ayvalık by a road bridge. Accordingly, dolmuşes and buses are available from the mainland if you don’t have your own transportation. On the north edge of Cunda, look out over Pordoselene Bay, which enjoyed a brief interval of fame as the home of a dolphin who saved a drowning boy. Another local unmissable is the breathtaking Patriça Bay, where you’ll find abandoned Greek villages ringed with wildflowers and herbs. Shoppers should check out the weekly market (the köy pazarı) held on Thursdayskeep your eyes open for good deals on

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knockoff brand name goods and heaping piles of locally-grown food for dirt-cheap prices. Definitely plan an afternoon around the iconic Taş Kahve (Sahil Boyu No:20), the island’s most famous coffeehouse by a long shot. The place has been around for decades and has become something of a local landmark. Fancy some wine instead? Opt for Vino Şarap Evi (Cumhuriyet Cad. No:8), where you can enjoy amazing wine and meze in a relaxed, beautiful atmosphere.

Aşiyan Pansiyon The clean and affordable Aşiyan Pension is a great choice if you’re looking for a fully equipped yet no-frills place to stay, hasslefree. There’s a washing machine, fridge, iron, and stove for general use by guests, and the rooms are much better equipped than the majority of pensions- you’ll find a hairdryer, a satellite TV, A/C, a mini-fridge, and an ensuite bathroom. And if you’re eager to keep in touch or check the news, never fear. There’s a strong wireless signal so you can use the Internet in your own room as well as in any of the common areas.

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Ali Çetinkaya Meydanı No: 10 +90 266 327 19 25 osman@cundaasiyan.com www.cundaasiyan.com The manager can give you tips and directions for anything you might want to see on or around Cunda, including sights and restaurants. While you’re here, poke around the fun gift shop, featuring a number of products made from local olive oil- it’s a great way to pick up a souvenir of the region without having to deal with touts.

İzmir

The modern city of İzmir is characterized by wide streets lined with designer boutiques and massive, glass-fronted offices. As Turkey’s third-largest city, it’s a hub of both transportation and business, and generally speaking has a more contemporary, commercial feel than other major urban areas in the country. In fact, you may at times feel that you’re in Greece or southern Italy rather than Turkey. That vibe, however, owes a lot to the setting as well. Ringed by picturesque mountain ranges and nestled next to a spreading bay, İzmir is as Mediterranean as it gets. Palm trees grow in abundance along the broad boulevards of the city and cool sea breezes are a welcome relief from the maddeningly hot and humid summers which plague travelers to the region. The spring and fall, when the temperatures are more reasonable, are nice times to visit İzmir; winters, but contrast, tend to be cold and rainy. Snow is rare, although not unheard of. İzmir is an exceedingly old city. It was founded more than 5000 years ago as the Trojan city of Smyrna; Homer spent much of his life here. Smyrna changed political hands many times over the centuries, belonging to not only the Greeks but also the Persian empire, the Roman empire, the Byzantines, the Ottoman empire, and (of course) modern Turkey. Still, there’s not as much in the way physical history in the form of ruins as you might as expect. İzmir’s had

a bit of a problem with natural disasters throughout its past, and suffered through several which destroyed large numbers of the historical buildings. An earthquake around 200 AD erased much of the city’s original foundations, and- much more recently- a devastating fire in the 1920s again leveled a significant portion of İzmir’s historical buildings. Also make sure to plan a visit to one of İzmir’s near-constant fairs - you may see signs saying İzmir Fuarı. A multitude of events are staged throughout the year, with themes such as shoes, technology, agriculture, pets, and much more. You can check out the schedule online at www.izfas.com.tr. Check out Kadifekale, an impressive castle crowning a hill, as well as the asansör (elevator) which was originally constructed in 1907.

İzmir has a young population and a liberal reputation, and you can probably guess what that means when you put the two together: a thriving nightlife scene, as well as hundreds of hangouts for university students and recent grads. The Alsancak district is the place to be if you’re looking for a rowdy good time, with tons of rocking clubs and bars which stay open- and packed- until the wee hours of the morning. Try a midnight walk along Kordon, the waterfront area of Alsancak, and you won’t be disappointed. During the daytime, you can find tons of little cafes here as well.

İzmir

Accommodation options, too, are numerous. A huge range of hotels to suit your budget can be found within a short walk or bus ride from the city center. Hotel Baylan (1299 St. No: 8)in Basmane is one recommended option, with excellent international food (including Chinese and Indian) and a pool for guest use. Otherwise, you can try the clean and welcoming Konak Saray Hotel (Anafartalar Caddesi No: 635, Çankaya), featuring a terrace restaurant and set in a restored Ottoman building from 1855. In operation for over sixty years, Güzel İzmir Otel ( 1368 St. No: 8 ) is also a popular and fairly well-known budget option in İzmir.

Eat & Drink Meşhur Tavacı Recep Usta (also known as Tavacı), (Atatürk Cad. No:364 Kordon) is the best South East Turkish Cuisine available in town. Fish, grilled sea bass and mezes, usually the fish is fresh and plenty in all seasons. Kordon Ümitköy Balıkçısı offers great deal of fish in Alsancak. Kumru, a warm sandwich, made with a special bread with sesame seeds, Turkish sausage, grilled cheese and tomatoes, also a vegetarian version is available without the sausage and with the addition of green pepper. This is something not to be missed while in Izmir, because it’s almost impossible to find it anywhere else in the country. You can join the nightlife on Kıbrıs Şehitleri Caddesi in Alsancak, and

go find the Gazi Kadinlar Street. All pubs and cafes in Kordon (Alsancak’s waterfront) are attractive in nice weather. 1448 St. at Alsancak is full of bars and pubs from one end to another.

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Çeşme

This once-drab coastal town has been on the upswing for several decades now, and has transformed into a popular tourist destination. Hordes of travelers descend on its pretty streets and fountained gardens come summer, and it’s always a good idea to book ahead here to make sure you don’t miss out on anything.

into the sea at one of the beaches or trying your hand at windsurfing. One of the most happening spots for a relaxing day on the sand, a night out, or even a big-name concert if your timing’s right is Babylon Aya Yorgi (on Aya Yorgi Beach, as the name suggests). They have a pub, a restaurant, and a packed event schedule.

The downtown area doubles as the old city, with many of the buildings dating back several centuries. It’s definitely good for an afternoon stroll, but the real attraction of Çeşme is the summer fun of plunging

Also check out Alaçatı, roughly 8 km away from Çeşme. This tiny town is full of old Greek houses and windmills, lending it an air of unquantifiable charm. Windsurfers visit by the ton.

Getting To The Greek Islands The mountainous Greek island of Chios, lying approximately seven kilometers away from the Turkish coast, makes for a fantastic day trip or (increasingly commonly) a fun and convenient visa run for foreigners looking to extend their three-month tourist stamps. Ferries from the mainland are extremely common, making the trip hasslefree for the most part. They depart from Çeşme harbor and generally take around forty minutes to complete the crossing. Consider renting a bike once you arrive; it’s a great way to explore the island without the burden of a

car. The primary sight to be seen on Chios (apart from the largest town, bearing the same name and boasting an eye-catching castle) is Neo Moni, a monastery from the 11th century which has been named a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, right in the middle of the island. If you plan to stay overnight, consider Chios Rooms in Chios (Leoforos Aigaiou 110, on the harbor). It’s a shady, pretty guesthouse run by an international couple, Kiwi and Greek, with a nice library and picturesque setting.

Urla During high season months, the area of Çesme is packed with locals and tourists: it is hard to find an empty spot on the beach and when you do, you’ll still have to be so close to your umbrella-neighbours that you’ll feel like you have to share your packed lunch with them. If what you are looking for is a peaceful spot away from the crowd and all sorts of tourists, take a bus from Çeşme to Urla, a tiny village facing the sea. The word Urla (which is also the name of the peninsula) comes from the Greek word meaning ‘marshlands’. Although not very well-known, the history of the

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peninsula goes back to pre-Hellenistic times, as recent excavations in Limantepe revealed. Some of the pieces of art and sculpture encountered during the research are now exposed in Louvre. Don’t stay in Urla though, as there is not much left to see unfortunately. Take an urban bus to Çeşmealtı, quiet fishermen’s village and harbor. This area, quiet and relaxing during the day, hosts a night-time cloth market and lively local entertainment by the sea, with traditional Turkish music and lots of fish restaurants.

Palm Bungalows Beach Club

Mavi Plaj Cad. 223 St. No:14 Çeşmealtı +90 232 755 10 15 info@palmbungalowsbeachclub.com facebook.com/pages/PalmBungalows-Beach-Club

With the same bus for Çesmealtı, ask the driver to drop you off at Palm Bungalows Beach Club. This place, recently opened and very well organized, is unexpectedly visited by tourists from all around ISCOU the world. Still they are the only persons with which you’ll have to share the private access to the sea and the garden right next to it. The Bungalows are new and they look more like tiny fully furnished comfort apartments. As the name suggests, the place also operates as a beach club and beach parties on certain days of the week with the performance of the

DJ brings the peak of entertainment. Enjoy the clean waters of Çeşmealtı, during the day and at night, when you can ask to be served dinner right by the sea.

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Foça

Roughly 70 kilometers north of central İzmir, the small municipality of Foça has a rich history and some beautiful beaches- day-trip it or stop by on your way north. Don’t be confused by the names, though, as there are two towns called Foça. Yenifoça (New Foça) lies south of the one you probably want to visit, Eskifoça (Old Foça), with the similarly-dubbed Phocaea in the middle of the two. The name of this originally Greek city comes from the word for “seal” (fok in Turkish) due to the huge communities of the animals living in the nearby sea. There are tons of well-preserved archaeological sites here, mostly stemming from the Greek period prior to the Persian invasion in 546 BC, which effectively ended the golden age of Foça. One of the most impressive of these is the Temple of Athena, which is still undergoing excavations. Also be sure to see the ancient theater, as well as the numerous historical mosques from more recent periods. Foça is mostly about sea, so Fokai Restaurant ( 121 St. No: 8 ) is an excellent choice for sea food, combined with traditional Mediterranean ‘mezes and rakı’ . If you would like to continue on concentrating Aegean Sea , check out Delphin Tour Boat ( Küçükdeniz Limanı ) for low-volume, relaxing and not crowded (10 people limit) tours around Foça.

Getting to Foça Since it lies quite some way outside the main center of İzmir, getting to Foça used to be a confusing and time-consuming affair. Fortunately, this is all changing this year with the installation of a brand-new metro train throughout the whole of İzmir which is projected to cut travel times in half. From the airport, you can take the Aliağa train and reach Foça on a single ticket; get off at Biçerova and take a dolmuş the last 3 kilometers to town. Of course, you can still reach Eskifoça by other means as well. If you have your own car, take the road north toward Çanakkale and turn after 39 kilometers, continuing 26 more kilometers until you reach Foça. Otherwise, buses are also available from central İzmir, running from six in the morning until eleven at night- but the metro is likely to be the cheapest and least convoluted method.

Foça

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Siren Pansiyon Siren Pension is a tidy and calm retreat situated in the heart of Foça, just a short walk from the beach. The managing family of the pension has over twenty years of experience running accommodation for locals and international travelers alike; they speak English and Turkish as well as German, and are always ready to give you the lowdown on the area or just chill out with you on ISCOU the terrace and have a chat.

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Twelve rooms are available, with options for two, three, or four guests. They’re closed in the winter (from December to March), so the pension has a

İsmetpaşa Mah. 161 St. No. 13 +90 232 812 26 60 info@sirenpansiyon.com www.sirenpansiyon.com permanently summery feel to it. The balconies found in most of the rooms, as well as the common terrace, get plenty of sun and have awesome sea views, great for tanning or just hanging out with a drink in hand to reflect on your day.

İyon Pansiyon

The rooms are all spacious and wellequipped. Wireless Internet is available, as well as satellite TV and mini fridges in most of them. You can even check out their website beforehand and look at pictures so you can

İsmetpaşa Mah. 198 St. No. 8 +90 232 812 14 15 bilgi@iyonpansiyon.com www.iyonpansiyon.com reserve the room you like best (be warned though, their English site is still under construction). Ask about car rentals and tours- the staff at İyon can get discounts for you! Free welcomedrink COUNT & free pick-up within Foça

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If it’s character you’re after in Foça, don’t hesitate: make your way directly to İyon Pension. The place is full of fun and bright decorations and the staff is a joy as well, with a terrific sense of humor and a mission to make your stay memorable. They’ll insist that you let them know if anything is amiss, and they mean it- İyon not just a business but also a home. They go the extra mile here, with friendly touches like delivering a morning paper to your door if you request it!

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Bergama

Bergama, about two hours from İzmir or nearly ten from İstanbul by bus, makes a terrific hub for exploring the historical sites around Turkey’s north Mediterranean coast. With 60,000 residents, it’s much smaller than İzmir and can be a pleasanter place to to base yourself out of if you’re not the huge-metropolis type. Still, Bergama is large enough to offer pretty much anything you’re looking for in a travel headquarters. Bergama contains a number of truly awesome historical sites; even if you’re planning to spend most of your time exploring nearby towns and ruins, don’t forget to budget

some time for the gems contained in the city proper. The temples and mosques are of particular interest, and anybody with an archaeological bent will appreciate the archaeology museum displaying many of the finest artifacts from around the area. If you’re on the hunt for souvenirs, consider Bergama’s booming carpet scene. Those on a tighter budget should consider looking for a bottle of homemade wine. It’s made primarily for and by locals, so don’t feel like you’re getting tourist kitsch! If you are looking for a hamam experience, check out Hacı Hekim Hamamı ( Cumhuriyet Cad.)

Bergama’s Acropolis You can spot the magnificent acropolis, towering over the eastern side of the city, from anywhere in Bergama. You can walk or drive up to the summit, some five kilometers from the center of the city. There is an admission fee, so make sure you’ve got some lira on you when you make the hike. The temples of Trajan and Athena are among the most impressive buildings to be found here. Both have been partially restored using the original materials. The site of the Library of Pergamum lies between the two; once containing over 200,000 volumes, it was famous for its size in ancient times.

Also well worth checking out is the majestic Hellenic Theater behind the temples, from which you can gaze out over the breathtaking panorama of Bergama below. When you’re finished wandering up and down the well-preserved steps of the theater, take the promenade over to the Temple of Dionysus.

Bergama

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Allanoi The small settlement of Allanoi lies approximately 20 kilometers from Bergama; make it a day-trip if you’re basing yourself out of the city. Allanoi, famous for its natural spa, enjoyed the height of its prominence around the second century AD under the Roman empire. Curiously, there is only one known mention of the site in ancient documents; Aelius Aristides made a note of it in his discussion of the healing sciences around 100 AD. Unfortunately, a plan laid by the Turkish State Hydraulic Works in the 1990s calls for necessitated damming the İlya River in order to increase the efficacy of agriculture around Bergama. Despite heated protests from UNESCO and the European Union (among others), the dam has recently been completed and much of Allanoi now lies under a thick layer of sand.

Odyssey Guest House Odyssey Guest House is a bookISCOU lover’s paradise! Rumored to be the largest in all of Turkey (okay, it’s an unconfirmed rumor, but if it’s not the biggest then it’s certainly close), their book exchange ranks up there as a must-see in Bergama. Grab a novel or head to the reference section if you’re trying to put together a plan for your next few days; they have offerings in tons of different languages.

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Talatpaşa Mah. Abacıhan St. No. 13 Tel: +90 232 631 35 01 info@odysseyguesthouse.com www.odysseyguesthouse.com

Stay in one of their eleven rooms, all of which have AC and most of which also feature private bathrooms. There’s hot water 24/7, so your showers will always be nice and steamy. The kitchen is available for guests to use- try your hand at Turkish cooking and then take your meal up to the scenic terrace or down to the spacious common room. Laundry service and breakfast are available for an extra fee.

Çiçeksever Kebap Salonu Genuinely cooked Turkish food. The friendly owners Ertan and Volkan are well famous in town and in the area of Izmir for their Köfte (Turkish meatballs), so don’t forget to order

Bankalar Cad. No: 71 +90 232 633 38 22 at least one portion!! We suggest you to try also the Kaymaklı Kemalpaşa dessert,too.

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Ephesus

Ephesus Ephesus is one of Turkey’s foremost archaeological sites: and no wonder, as it has a long and varied history which left behind some of the country’s most stunning ruins anywhere. Located about four kilometers from Selçuk, it’s possible to walk to the site; otherwise, you can take one of the dolmuşes from the town center, which depart every fifteen minutes. Ephesus is known in Turkish as Efes, which, if you’ve been here for a while, you’ll probably instantly recognize as the name of the most popular brand of beer in Turkey! Ephesus was originally founded by the Greeks and enjoyed a prominent status as one of the twelve cities of the Ionian League. After it was conquered, it was for many years the second largest city in the entire Roman empire, after Rome itself. In fact, in the first century BC, Ephesus was the second-largest city not only of the empire but of the world. The famous Temple of Artemis, known for being one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, was located here. Sadly, it was destroyed in 401 AD by an angry multitude and the only part which can be seen today is a lone column. Still, archaeology enthusiasts will be far from disappointed by the remarkable ruins still in abundance here. Don’t miss the Library of Celsus, with its grand entrance, which once housed over 12,000 volumes and had reading rooms constructed particularly to take advantage of natural light. Also see the temples of Hadrian and Domitian, in various stages of reconstruction, which feature wonderful reliefs. Also check out the recently-discovered gladiator graveyard. You can see many artifacts from Ephesus in the archaeological museum in nearby Selçuk, although a large percentage of the finds have been relocated to the British Museum and the Ephesos Museum in Austria.

Ephesus

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No Frills Ephesus Tours If you normally shy away from organized tours but still wish you could reap the rewards of being shown around by a professional, No Frills is for you. Unlike many other tour companies, they recognize that you’d rather spend your time seeing the sights and learning about the fascinating history of Ephesus than being dragged into yet another gift shop. No Frills promises just that- an informative and fun experience without the hassle of shopping stops.

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They offer a range of different tours to fit your schedule and your budget. Among the more popular options are

Atatürk Mah. Sen Jean Cad. No: 3A, Selçuk +90 232 892 88 28 max@seaspirittravel.com www.nofrillsephesustours.com

the Ephesus tour (half day or full day) and the perennial favorite, the ANZAC tour, of particular interest to Kiwis, Brits, and Aussies. A tour with No Frills is an interactive experience starting from right when you book- make sure to let them know if you’d like to see something which isn’t on the normal route, or if you have any special needs you’d like them to accommodate.

ANZ Guesthouse

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Another obvious favorite with traveling Aussies and Kiwis, ANZ Guesthouse is colorfully decorated in the Turkish style with couches and kilims galore. Kick off your boots and head to the rooftop terrace for ISCOU nice views and good company.

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1064 St. No. 10, Selçuk +90 232 892 60 50 info@anzguesthouse.com www.anzguesthouse.com

There’s a book exchange so you can plan out the next leg of your trip- of course, don’t hesitate to pose your questions to the staff, also, since they’re full of recommendations and great advice. There’s no bar here, but feel free to head to the store and bring back your own beers if you want to relax with a cold one in the afternoon or save some money by working on a bit of a buzz before you hit the town at night.

Private rooms can house between one and four people, and there are also dorms for 12-15 if you want to stretch your budget a little farther.

Ephesus

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Boomerang Guest House Run by a hospitable English-speaking family, Boomerang Guest House is an affordable and chilled out place to sling your bags and have some fun. Anybody is welcome at Boomerang, but as the name suggests, Aussies will feel particularly at home here- from Down Under-themed decor to the complimentary Vegemite on offer at breakfast-time, this guest house is packed with little touches to make backpackers feel like they’re back in the southern hemisphere. But don’t get too comfortable lounging around, because Boomerang has got a perfect location for exploring the ancient wonders of the area. It’s just a short walk from the archaeological museum if you’re dying to check out some of the artifacts found at nearby Ephesus. If you’re in more of an outdoorsy mood and want to head straight to the site itself, no worries. Boomerang can help you arrange transport to Ephesus. They’ll also organize tours for you to nearby Şirince, Pamukkale, or to the Greek islands to the west.

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Take your pick between singles, doubles, triples, or dorm rooms with ensuite bathrooms; all of them come standard with clean

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Atatürk Mah. Sevgi Yolu 1047 St. No. 10 Selçuk +90 232 892 48 79 boomerangguesthouse@hotmail.com www.boomerangguesthouse.com linens and a traditional Turkish breakfast included in the price. If you’re looking for a change of pace and a different way to explore Selçuk, consider hiring one of the bicycles offered by Boomerang.The staff can also arrange airport transfers or help you with a broad spectrum of other travel matters- tours, car rental, plane tickets, and bus schedules, to name just a few. Also check out the affiliated Boomerang Restaurant and Bar, where all kinds of food is served, from Turkish-style grills and other local favorites to salads and more international fare for those of you battling a little homesickness. It’s right next door the the hostel in a renovated historical building with a beautiful garden.

Şirince

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The tiny village of Şirince was populated by Greeks until the population exchange which took place in 1923; since then, Muslim Turks have made it their home. Only eight kilometers from Selçuk, Şirince is an easy daytrip. Taking the dolmuş to get there is a hassle-free experience, and there’s one departing in either direction every hour. Today, Şirince is primarily known as a producer of fine fruit wines. Perhaps surprisingly, this is a recent development, and the shift toward wine tourism has come only in the last several decades after a German man named Helmut Hermann Krauss fell in love with the town and decided to start producing wine there. After teaming up with a local and establishing the Artemis Şirince restaurant, he pioneered a line of delicious and aromatic fruit wines- take an afternoon and sample them for yourself! It all started with the blueberry variety, so you might want to begin with that one as well.

Pagan Egg Painting at Simyacı Şirince isn’t just about wine, though, and there are plenty of alternative experiences to be had here. One of the coolest is certainly a visit to Simyacı handicrafts center, where they specialize in egg painting. Eggs are symbolic in the pagan traditions of hundreds of cultures worldwide, and Turkey is no exception; they’ll give you a guide to the

Şirince Village +90 232 898 32 64 yumart@gmail.com symbolism so you can work out what each one means for yourself!

Dereli Kaplankaya Wines Dereli Kaplankaya Wines is one of Şirince’s most esteemed wine houses. They’ve been in operation since 1999 and have built a solid reputation for themselves as one of the classiest establishments in townISCOU stop by and see the shop yourself, all dark wood and fancy kilims. They use

Şirince Village +90 232 898 32 28 info@sirincekaplankayasaraplari.com www.sirincekaplankayasaraplari.com

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the natural flavors of the fruits without artificial flavoring.

Dionysos Houses

 Şirince Village +90 532 217 87 05 info@dionysospension.com www.dionysospension.com ISCOU

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Based in a restored 200-year old building, Dionysos is a stylish homestead with an oldfashioned vibe. Don’t be deceived, thoughall the modern amenities you want to make your stay comfortable are, of course, available here, including air conditioning and wi-fi and ensuite bathrooms in all of the rooms.

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Kuşadası

Sezgin Hotel & Guest House Kuşadası (“Bird Island”, referring to the small Pigeon Island just off the mainland) is a resort town popular with international visitors and Turks alike. With roughly 50,000 permanent residents, Kuşadası spends the winters in relative silence, growing significantly ISCOU in the high summer season with the influx of tourists. The modern town center and harbor area is lined with shops and small cafes, where you can find good deals on carpets and other souvenirs with some patience and a little skill at the age-old art of haggling.

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Accommodation options are numerous here, but one of the most highly-recommended is without a doubt Sezgin Hotel, which offers single, double, or triple rooms. The owner is a former traveler himself, and has gone out of his way to furnish the place with everything you might need for your life on the road. There’s an Internet cafe if you don’t have your own laptop along (and wi-fi for those of you who do); log on here for a bit and smoke a water pipe, locally known as nargile. There’s an outdoor swimming pool and a book exchange as well, the latter featuring a number of guidebooks to the region so you’ll have no trouble planning out the next leg of your journey. If it’s recommendations you’re after, though, another awesome resource is

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Aslanlar Cad. No. 68 +90 256 614 42 25 sezginhotel@hotmail.com www.sezginhotel.com

the staff themselves, who have done their share of traveling around Turkey and have tons of ideas ready to offer you in English, German, Korean, or Japanese. Also check out the restaurant and barbecue in their beautiful garden! Breakfast is a buffet, included in the price, so you’re sure to start each day with a full stomach. Getting to Kuşadası is usually a pretty straightforward affair; catch a bus from most cities in Turkey. A stay in Kuşadası is also a great opportunity to take a brief sojourn in Greek territory, as there are daily ferry services to the Greek island of Samos.

Pamukkale

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Used as a spa since antiquity, Pamukkale is one of the country’s most famous destinations for tourists and Turks alike. Pamukkale has been famous for its natural spa since at least the second century BC, when it was a thriving GrecoRoman locality believed to heal bathers of a wide variety of ills, including rheumatism, heart, stomach, and skin diseases, and even high blood pressure. The hot waters flow from the white geological formations, known as travertines, which give the town its name (Pamukkale means “cotton castle” in Turkish). While you’re in the region, also check out the ancient city of Hierapolis (founded, as the name suggests, by the Greeks). Traditionally the jumping-off point for visitors to the hot springs, Hierapolis houses a number of impressive relics from its early days. You’ll most likely pass through the larger nearby city of Denizli before continuing on to Pamukkale and Hierapolis, as the majority of buses and trains stop here. If you’re coming in by air, the closest airport is also in Denizli and is an hour distant.

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Pamukkale

Artemis Yörük Hotel With both dorms and private rooms available, there’s something for everyone here. Or if you really want to get back to nature, consider pitching a tent in the camping area which is opened for the high season.

 Pamukkale Kasabası Atatürk Cad. No. 48 / A +90 258 272 26 74 info@artemisyorukhotel.com www.artemisyorukhotel.com

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Enjoy the huge buffet breakfast served every morning and included in the price of your room, go for a swim in the pool, or take in the view of the travertines... you’ll find a pleasant and welcoming atmosphere at this familyrun pension, and all the help you need with further bookings. The food is fantastic, and you’ll love the atmosphere too. In summer, you can take your meals on the rooftop terrace and watch the the slow pace of village life as the locals go about their day far below you; in winter, you might prefer to eat by the fireplace and warm up as you fill your stomach with tasty Turkish cuisine including

meatballs, kebabs, and vegetarian dishes, all made on-site and filled with healthy, organic ingredients. Everyone loves a barbecue, especially the staff at Artemis Yörük, so put on your shades and gather around the grill! Tea is free all day- choose from an assortment of blends. For world-weary travelers, ask about the Turkish baths, the sauna, and the professional staff masseuse. Or just pick out a book from the book exchange and relax for a while! When you’ve caught your breath, you can take a gander at the travel desk and get some advice on your next port of call.

Pamukkale

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Mustafa Pension

The closest accommodation to the Hierapolis entrance gate, Mustafa Pension could not be more conveniently located. As you would expect at a hostel close to one of the country’s foremost symbols of relaxation, this is a calm and laid-back kind of place where you can chill out and have a tea or coffee (free all day, including apple ISCOU tea!) and share a water pipe with friends if the mood strikes you.

Kale Mah. Atatürk St. No. 22 +90 258 272 22 40 info@mustafahostel.com The staff is full of interesting history and travelers’ tales which will spark your inspiration for the next leg of your journey. Don’t hesitate to ask them any questions you may have! Dorms and private rooms are available.

Hermosa Tours Located just in front of the affiliated Artemis Yörük Guesthouse, Hermosa is a relatively new company brimming with personality and enthusiasm. In partnership with Go Holiday Turkey, they offer a bursting package of cool trips and unique tours to bring your trip to the next ISCOU level. Turkish cultural tours are a mainstay, allowing you a look into the heart of modern society in this fascinating country, or if history is more up your alley you can opt for a more traditional guided tour bringing you to all the hotspots, from Cappadocia to Gallipoli.

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Kale Mah. Atatürk Cad. 5/A +90 258 272 26 66 info@hermosatoursturkey.com www.hermosatoursturkey.com Dream cruises are organized at Hermosa as well, if you’ve got a bit of a craving to be out on the open blue sea. Or if you’re more into sweeping views, you can sign up for a hot air balloon flight over the Cappadocian moonscape. Both standard and customized tours are available, and Hermosa will work with you to figure out a great itinerary according to what you and your group most want to see during your stay.

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Gökova/Akyaka

The tiny town of Gökova, with only about 1500 inhabitants in the off-season, has been growing in popularity with holiday-goers since the 1970s. These days, it enjoys a modest popularity during the summer high season, and you’ll find it busy, though not overrun, in June and July. Despite being an ancient settlement, Gökova has no ruins of any major significance. Most visitors come for the natural beauty to be found here, due to the town’s location on the scenic “Plain of Heaven”, as well as the wide variety of wildlife thriving in the wetlands nearby. Otters, flamingos, pelicans, and herons are all relatively common, and if you’re lucky you might see all of them; increase your chances of a sighting by coming in the wintertime. If bird-watching is too low-key for you, consider paragliding from the nearby Akyaka, a sport which has been growing in recent years.

Rüzgar Cafe & Bar Salih St. No. 2 Akyaka +90 252 243 42 17 info@gokovaruzgar.com www.gokovaruzgar.com

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a day trying your hand at any of them; don’t miss Rüzgar’s equipment shop, where you can stock up on all the top-ofCOUNT the-line watersports gear you’ll need to start an illustrious career as a professional fun-haver.

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Rüzgar is absolutely a one-stop shop for everything you need in Gökova. There’s a waterfront cafe and bar where you can grab a drink and chill out in the sun while you decide what to do next- and you’ll find that COUNT you’re in exactly the right place to be making that decision! Apart from the food-and-drink side of things, Rüzgar specializes in hooking you up with any and all activities that can be found here in Gökova. Take your pick and spend

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Mayısevi After a while on the road, most travelers succumb to the fatigue of days spent in buses and indistinguishable dorm rooms... if that sounds familiar, you can’t afford to miss Mayısevi. Their whole philosophy revolves around the idea that everyone needs to get back to nature now ISCOU and then. You’ll feel like you’re in Eden here. Anyone who shares Mayısevi’s appreciation for nature

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İnişdibi Mah. Barzalar St.ak +90 252 243 44 36 mayisevi@gmail.com www.mayisevi.com will love the homegrown organic food and the beautiful garden; there’s also a common kitchen so you can prepare your own meals if cooking is your forte.

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Caria Pan Travel This travel company is a particularly good choice for organizing outdoorsy activities. They offer an intersting variety of tours: from getting your adrenaline pumping with hiking and biking trips to cooking lessons and daily yoga walks. Caria Pan Travel is a tour operator established in Outdoor Tourism, providing year-round guided tours to many different ISCOU locations throughout Turkey and Greece.

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The company also owns a pension, perfect for those who want to be far away

Karanfil St. No: 25/1 +90 252 243 53 20 info@cariapan.com www.cariapantravel.com/en from the crowded Tourismus beaches, The pension is Situated at the village Akçapınar in the Gökova Valley. A design mixture of many Artists gave these place a incredible taste. Many of our Multi activity tours will be based here. İts on the routes Carian and İdyma and just 10 minutes away from the Kiteboard base Gökova.

Nova Apart & Hostel Budget travelers rejoice- Akyaka has finally become the proud owner of its first hostel. Recently opened under the umbrella of Nova Aparts, it’s the first dorm in the area and by that alone is sure to attract a chill young crowd looking for a deal in the blue-green paradise of Akyaka. Six beds are up for grabs, and the dorm features ISCOU a common kitchen as well as free lockers.

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Should you be looking for a longer stay to catch your breath and get to know the rhythms of life in town, the apartments for which Nova is named will be right up

Sefa St. No:4 - Akyaka +90 252 243 53 54 info@novaaparts.com www.novaaparts.com your alley. They all come standard with AC, a mini fridge, a phone, 24 hour hot water, and a wi-fi connection in your room. Each apartment has a bathroom, of course, as well as an American-style kitchen stocked with basic cooking supplies. You’ll be only 70 meters from the Azmak River and beach, so definitely don’t forget your swimsuit and your sunscreen. Between the sun, sand, and the pleasure of having an apartment all to yourself, Nova will start feeling like your true home away from home before you even know it.

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Dalyan

Beautiful Dalyan is located in an environmentally protected area and is home to many species of wildlife which flourish in the mixed salt and fresh waters of the wetlands. It’s a bird-watcher’s paradise, but there’s also a ton for history buffs to sink their teeth into here. Highlights of the town include the turtle beach nearby and the magnificent rock tombs. Dalyan is the site of the ancient city of Caunos, which was settled around 200 AD; a number of the ruins are well-preserved and can be reached by boat from the town proper. Look out for the acropolis, the Byzantine basilica, and the Roman baths in particular, although the sites here are numerous and you can lose yourself in the cobbled streets leading between walls and temples. Along the peaceful pathway “Love Road” in Dalyan, at the coolest spot with a breeze, Riverside Cafe (www.cafe.riversidehouses. net) is waiting for your visit with wide ranged

menu including chilling feasts and drinks. Even more locally famous, however, is İztuzu Beach. Home to many loggerhead turtles who crawl up on the shore every June and July to lay their eggs, İztuzu is a well-known tourist destination for wildlife lovers. Of course, it’s crucial to avoid disturbing the turtles; make sure to abide by all posted signs and warnings, especially between May and October, when the entire area lies under environmental protection for the sake of the loggerheads. The beach lies southwest of the mouth of the Dalyan Çayı, the river which connects the Köyceğiz Lake with the sea. To reach Dalyan, hop on a dolmuş from Fethiye or Marmaris. Alternately, you can fly into Dalaman Airport, which is roughly 40 minutes away from the town. Taxis and public transport are both available.

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Bahaus Resort In the shade of the mountains and ringed by orchards of pomegranate, orange, and lemon, Bahaus Hostel is a beautiful and sprawling resort where you can find a note of harmony near the sea. Bahaus is a well-known and much-respected franchise in Turkey, and travelers throughout the country know that the brand stands for safety, fun, and excitement.

 İztuzu Yolu No. 25 Ortaca +90 252 284 50 50 bahausdalyan@yahoo.com www.bahausresort.com

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Tons of accommodation options are available for any style and any budget. There are single, double, triple, and quadruple rooms as well as dorms and camping facilities. The rooms come with some of the most extensive facilities in Turkey, including hairdryers, LCD TVs, AC, mini-fridges, and pool towels. The wi-fi signal is strong throughout the whole area, and you can connect from anywhere.

The outdoor facilities are, if anything, even better. Two pool tables, a swimming pool, two jacuzzis, a huge bar, ping-pong tables... you’ll never be bored staying at Bahaus. And that’s only a partial list- if none of those options strike your fancy, maybe you’d prefer a game of foosball or backgammon? A bike trip? Some exercise at the gym? Smoking a water pipe? Pretty much anything you can think of is right here. Of course, the food isn’t neglected! Bahaus uses organic products for most of their dishes- a ton of ingredients come from the on-site farm. Breakfast is included in the price of your room, and you can get lunch and dinner (as well as snacks) throughout the day.

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Kaunos Tours Kaunos Tours was opened in 1993 as a rental company for various types of transportation around the Dalyan area, and has since expanded to include all kinds of tours and activities. Of course, you can still rent cars from Kaunos (as well as bicycles and motorbikes, if that’s more your style), but don’t settle on something too quickly, because you might be pleasantly surprised by the sheer vastness of the spectrum of activities they can help you out with. Before you make your decision, there’s something you should know about Kaunos, and that’s the fact that they’re a long way from your typical tour company. The staff here are hired particularly for their knowledge of and experience in the region, and they are carefully trained to be able to answer any question you may have. They want you to come away from your experience with them not only remembering your time with Kaunos as the best aspect of your stay in Dalyan, but also with a deeper understanding of the culture and traditions underlying it all. The very first detailed map of the Dalyan area came about as a direct result of Kaunos’s exploratory mountain bike tours in 1995, so you know they’re good.

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Sarısu St. Binlik Pasajı No. 1/A +90 252 284 28 16 bookings@kaunostours.com www.kaunostours.com

Anyway, down to business. All Kaunos tours come with free transfer from your hostel or hotel, so no worries about missing the boat (so to speak). Cruises, trekking, and sea kayaking are among your options here, and of course they still specialize in mountain biking tours if you’re feeling the need to get your adrenaline pumping. Or maybe Jeep safaris or canyoning are more up your alley? Kaunos can also arrange airport transfers for those of you flying into Dalaman Airport. Transfer directly to their office and then keep your independence from public transport by renting a car to explore the area!

Köyceğiz Tango Hostel Originally settled in 3400 BC, Köyceğiz has a long and rich history during which, like most towns in Turkey, it changed hands numerous times. Nearby historical sites, including the impressive rock tombs, represent the influence of many civilizations.

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 Ali İhsan Kalmaz Cad. +90 252 262 25 01 tangopension@tangopension.com www.tangohostel.com home. Get to know the place right away as you enjoy your free coffee or tea as soon as you walk in the door!

Köyceğiz is a quiet haven, with a much more traditional feel than the larger cities which surround it. Check out the market held every Monday, mainly frequented by locals although some travelers show up to do some shopping the old-fashioned way as well. You should really stay a few nights to properly appreciate the tranquility of Köyceğiz, and there’s no better place to do it than at Tango Pension. This laid-back little place has singles, doubles, and triples, all with their own balconies from which you can admire great views of the mountains and the lake. If you’d rather socialize while you watch the sunset, head up to the rooftop balcony and have a chat with your hosts or your fellow travelers over a delicious home-cooked meal in the traditional Turkish style. Tango offers laundry service, Internet facilities, and the opportunity to make international phone calls to your friends back

Sami and Şahin, the two brothers who jointly run Tango, are friendly as they come and will do everything under the sun to make sure your stay is filled with fun and good vibes. They know all the best spots in town and can fix you up with a huge range of activities. You might be surprised at the things they can organize for you, actually- everything from moonlight boat rides to mudbaths, campfire nights, crabbing, trekking, canyoning, sojourns to Turtle Beach... the list goes on.

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Datça

Datça is located halfway out on a narrow peninsula of the same name, which itself sticks out from the mainland halfway between İzmir and Antalya. The eastern half of the peninsula is fertile in sections, while the western end, more mountainous and sparsely inhabited, may once have been the site of the ancient settlement of Knidos.

of sampling the local cuisine, particularly a certain dessert made from almonds and dried figs. Most travelers arrive via Marmaris, which lies some 75 kilometers to the east and makes a convenient transfer point for those coming by bus.

Interestingly, both Datça itself and the numerous smaller villages around it are built some distance from the water, a practice stemming from the inhabitants’ fear of pirate attacks throughout antiquity and continuing through the end of the Ottoman Empire. However, the coast holds significant interest for visitors in the form of pretty coves and small bays which can be found along its length. Travelers should also make a point

Ilıca Camping İskele Mah. Taşlık Plajı +90 252 712 34 00 ilicacamping@hotmail.com www.datcailicacamping.com Open until October 29

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Ilıca Camping is ideal for anyone keen on enjoying the summer sunshine which is so abundant in Datça. If you’d rather not be cooped up in a hotel room, why not save some money and spend your time camping or RVing instead? Ilıca has the best location around, just on the seafront, and with tons of facilities set up just so you can get the most out of it.

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Polka Datça Ambaracı Cad. No: 9 +90 555 731 25 07 facebook.com/PolkaDatca but it is already popular among the locals. The restaurant offers breakfasts, lunches and dinners with Turkish, Greek and Mediterranean specialties. If ISCOU you are a big group, you can call to book, it is also a perfect place for a special party. The cafe has all kinds of coffee (including Irish coffee), home-made cold drinks and home made snacks!

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From the same owners of Polka Cafe who are frequent travelers in this area, a colorful cafe-restaurant just opened less then a year ago in Datça, exactly with the purpose of creating a space to relax and hang out with friends. Breakfasts are highly recommended: abundant and with fresh locally grown products. The menu offers also special bratwurst made in Fethiye, sangria, homemade ice tea and ice tea and much more to come. If what was missing in Datça was a cute alternative place to hang out, here we have it now. In a nice spacious garden, comfortable couches and few tables are waiting for you! Polka Datça has just opened,

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The pretty resort town of Bodrum is located on a peninsula not far from Muğla, easily reachable by bus. It was once the site of the famous Mausoleum of Halicarnassus, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World; you can see the foundations a short way from the marina. Bodrum Castle is considered the town’s foremost landmark, and has been extraordinarily preserved. A more unusual stop is the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology, the best museum in the region and one of the finest in all of Turkey. Bodrum’s fantastic nightlife is definitely a major factor in its continuing tourist appeal, and you’ll find bars and clubs open at all hours if you want to join the crowds for drinks and dancing. Try Kule Bar (Cumhuriyet Cad. Dr Alim Bey Bedesteni No:55) for a terrific rock scene, or if you’re after a high-class night on the town, head to Mandalin Bar (Çarşı Mah. Dr Alim Bey Cad 1025 St. The best beaches are found to the northwest- make your way along the peninsula’s northern coast to Gölköy, Türkbükü, Gündoğan, and Yalıkayak. Bodrum has a variety of sleeping options, though many of them tend toward the expensive side. Some safe choices are Okyanus Otel (+90 252 316 73 15; Atatürk Cad. Eski Adliye St. No: 40) and Hotel Kalender (+90 252 319 33 10; Gumber Mah. Ayaz Cad. No:50).

Hanende Restaurant You might have come to Bodrum for the party atmosphere and the sandy beaches, but after a while you may find yourself craving a bit of a more low-key environment (maybe after a big night out?). ISCOU If you want a break from all the tourists, there’s no better way to escape the crowds than a meal at Hanende Restaurant. It’s geared mainly toward locals, so it’s an ideal spot to skip out from the bustle of Bodrum’s resort feel and get a taste of the real culture- no pun intended. The fare is primarily traditional Turkish dishes garnering high reviews from residents, and all of the

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Çarşı Mah. Taşlık St. +90 252 316 06 12 facebook.com/hanende.bodrum food is made in the Turkish ev yemek- home food- style. What’s more, you can plan your day while you’re eating! Hanende has an affiliated tour boat company which can take you out on the blue waters of the Mediterranean. There’s definitely no nicer way to relax than the combination of great organic food followed by an outing on the sea!

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Alfa Apart Alfa Apart Location, location, location! Just 150 metres to the sandy beach and surrounded by a lush green garden to chill out in. The apartments are in a little village called Kadikalesi, which has kept its village charm and yet is within easy reach of the busier resorts of Turgutreis, Gumusluk and Bodrum.

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When you enter Alfa Apart you will be hit by the peaceful feel of the place, the quirky garden furniture and the friendliness of the staff. They have a range of rooms available from shared dorms to private air-con or non aircon apartments. Each apartment has its own private bathroom, kitchenette, free Wi-Fi and patio or terrace overlooking the garden.

11. st. No:6 Kadıkalesi Turgutreis-Bodrum +90 507 631 87 20 hello@puretourism.co.uk www.alfaapart.com In the garden there are plenty of chairs, cushions and hammocks, perfect for relaxing, making friends and outdoor meals. They also have a selection of games, books and a great table tennis table for you to play on! Their partner hotel nearby has kindly agreed for Alfa Apart guests to have the use of their swimming pool.There are local shops selling your everyday essentials and two local restaurants within 3 minutes walking distance.

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Marmaris

The pretty beachside town of Marmaris is a seriously happening destination, due to the simple fact that there’s something for everyone here. Partiers will have a ball in the techy clubs and smoky bars on the bar street close to the open market, as Marmaris is justly known for having a solid nightlife scene bursting with dancing and drinking until the early hours of the morning. Those with a more low-key style, though, will not go wanting. There are plenty of activities to keep you occupied during your time in Marmaris, starting with the popular cruises which depart from the picturesque, yacht-

Özcan Pansiyon Kemeraltı Mh. 66 St. No:11 +90 252 412 77 61 ozcanpansiontonmarmaris@ hotmail.com

Barış Motel & Pansiyon Atatürk Cad., 66St. No:10 +90 252 413 06 52 barismotel@hotmail.com www.barismotel.com

lined harbor. Shopping is also great fun, and you’ll doubtless come across hundreds of quirky little shops calling your name, not to mention the bazaar, where you can stumble onto convincing knockoffs of every brand you can think of. To top it off, Marmaris is home to two waterparks. The closest international airport is located in Dalaman, roughly 100 kilometers away. From there, it’s easy enough to catch one of the frequent bus transfers, which take an hour and a half to reach Marmaris. To get around in town or for daytrips in the area, you can rely on the omnipresent dolmuşes.

Maltepe Pansiyon Kemeraltı Mh. 66 St. No: 9 +90 252 412 16 29 www.maltepepansiyon.com

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Lycian Way Turkey’s southern Mediterranean coast is dotted with ancient ruins and sleepy seaside towns, many of which are reachable by the standard methods of dolmuş and bus transport. But for anybody seeking a more personal and intense encounter with all that the region has to offer, the 500-odd kilometer Lycian Way presents the ideal experience for taking it all in.

Stretching from Fethiye to Antalya, the Lycian Way (Likya Yolu in Turkish) is a winding and mountainous walking path primarily following the coastline. Kate Clow, who spearheaded the project to construct the trail in the late 1990s, intentionally designed the route to hit as many major archaeological sites as possible. Yet the real allure of the trek is found in the less-known and less-appreciated elements along the way: chatting with villagers while goats mill around unchecked, listening to the sounds of nature while gazing down into a lush and untouched valley, coming across a thousand year old Lycian tomb covered in moss. If you don’t have the time or energy to tackle the entire route, you can pick and choose smaller sections to walk and pick up the trail from other towns along the way. If you plan to attempt the full hike, allow a month to 45 days and be sure to pick up Kate Clow’s original and highly detailed guide entitled, unsurprisingly, The Lycian Way. The entire path is waymarked with distinctive red and white markers found on rocks and trees, but at times they can be hard to spot and you should stay safe by never taking shortcuts or deviating from the path if possible. Anybody with a penchant for trekking and a love of history should make the Lycian Way (or at least parts of it!) a priority in a visit to the southern coast. Wandering the trail is the surest way of feeling instantly miles away from the rush and frenzy of İstanbul or Antalya and experiencing first-hand the slow pace and irresistible allure of rural Turkey.

LYCIAN WAY

Fethiye

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Fethiye & Around The mid-size town of Fethiye is easy to reach from anywhere in Turkey, with a busy otogar and frequent connections from the hour-distant Dalaman airport. Whether you’re out to hike the Lycian Way, indulge in some adrenaline-pumping extreme sports, or simply relax on southern Turkey’s sandy beaches, you’re likely to pass through Fethiye at some point. The town’s streets are crowded with international visitors, particularly during the high season, but for good reason; it makes an ideal starting point for visiting local Lycian ruins, soaking up sun, and getting active in the thriving paragliding or sea canoeing scenes. Go hunting for the sarcophagii which can be found around in several streets around town and take a day-trip to the cave tombs just outside of southern Fethiye. And if you’re ready to party at the end of a busy day, you’ll feel right at home here, where locals and travelers alike meet in pulsing discos and dance until the early hours of the morning.

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Pastoral Valley Pastoral Valley EcoFarm, several kilometers outside of Fethiye proper, is definitely not your typical camping or pension experience. Devoted to a relaxed, communal, and natural lifestyle, Pastoral Valley is more of a second home than the type of accommodation you’re probably used to on the road.

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Most people who stay at the ecofarm live there for an extended period of time and typically volunteer their time to help out with cooking or other daily chores. There’s plenty to do on this 42,000 square meter plot of fertile fields and orchards, but of course there’s plenty of time for relaxation, too! You can spend your afternoons lounging in one of the many gazebos around the central kitchen or splashing in the river which constitutes one of the borders of the farm’s land.

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Yanıklar Köyü, Fethiye +90 252 633 66 27 info@pastoralvadi.com www.pastoralvalley.com

As the manifesto of the ecofarm is based on communal participation and communal enjoyment of everyone’s labor, everything grown or produced on the farm is free- this includes coffee, tea, oranges and lemons, and fresh Mediterranean food. You’ll see the environmental focus everywhere at the ecofarm, including the activities you’ll find on offer. Spend your downtime horseback riding through the stunning valley, participating in one of the numerous handicrafts workshops on offer, taking yoga classes, or going on a nature trek.

Fethiye

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Alaturka Tours & Cruises Founded in 2004, Alaturka was originally a one-yacht company specialising in gulet tours from Fethiye to Olympos Gradually, as their customer base expanded and they found increasing success as leaders in the Mediterranean travel industry, they expanded their company to offer more tours all over the country. Nowadays, Alaturka operates these tours in all kinds of places from Istanbul to Dalyan to Mount Nemrut. Still, their specialty down along the coast is their gulet cruises. You wont find a more fun loving and knowledgeable team anywhere. Travel from Fethiye to your next destination, the ever-popular Olympos or Marmaris, in

Karagozler Mahallesi, Fevzi Cakmak Caddesi Tombak Apart, No: 29/B Fethiye +90 252 612 54 23 info@ alaturkacruises.com www.alaturkacruises.com style aboard one of the cabin cruises, or even charter a private yacht. If you’re not going anywhere in particular but still want to get a taste of sea life along this pristine coastline that Turkey offers, then hop on board one of these popular gullet trips. Sure to be a highlight of your Turkey experience. Alaturka can organise anything from your hotel accommodation to your transfers to your bus tickets. Not to mention Greek Ferry connections. Check out their websites: www.alaturkaturkey.com

Fethiye Guesthouse The Fethiye Guesthouse is a small guesthouse with a friendly atmosphere. Its location is one of the best in town, within a short few minutes walking distance of the main shopping, restaurant and entertainment district, as well as many of the historical sites and the main harbour. It is a peaceful little establishment with 15 rooms, all of which include a private bathroom, shower, as well as air-conditioning. Dorm rooms are also available. The crew are very friendly and welcoming, and the complimentary breakfast is delicious.

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1. Karagözler, Fevzi Çakmak Cad. No:57 Fethiye +90 252 612 27 11 info@fethiyeguesthouse.com www.fethiyeguesthouse.com Fethiye Guesthouse also provides unique in-house travel and tour information and will be pleased to help you organise local tours around Fethiye and surrounding areas, as well as travel and accommodation arrangements around Turkey. The qualified staff will be able to tailor an itinerary that fits your time and budget requirements. Fethiye Guesthouse makes your stay in Fethiye easy!

Ölüdeniz

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Ölüdeniz Ölüdeniz (meaning dead sea in Turkish, so-called for the stillness of the waters at its much-photographed Blue Lagoon), is a busy tourist town to the southeast of Fethiye and easily reachable by dolmuş. While its neighbors Faralya and Kabak will be more up your alley if you’re looking to ‘get away from it all’, Ölüdeniz is great for paragliding or sailing over the Mediterranean- or even just stocking up on supplies before you make your way to rougher territory.

Sugar Beach Club Looking for a little place to unwind? Ready to put your feet up for a day or two and chill out? Sugar Beach is where you want to be. Right on a sunny, sandy beach, the blue waters of the Mediterranean are your playground. After you’ve gone for a morning swim, sprawl out on a sunbed and keep an eye out for the resident loggerhead turtles which can sometimes be spotted on the shore. If you’re in a sporty mood, get your basketball on or head to the volleyball court. ISCOU

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If you want to stay overnight, choose from a bungalow, a caravan parking spot (for those of you on a roadtrip), or a tent pitch. Housekeeping and laundry service are available so you can lay back and enjoy yourself- no more worrying about the stink rising from those dirty socks in your backpack.

for bungalows

Ölüdeniz Cad. No. 20 +90 252 617 00 48 info@thesugarbeachclub.com www.thesugarbeachclub.com

Sugar Beach also features a great kitchen and restaurant where you can dine on Mediterranean cuisine or hit up Happy Hour (between 3 pm and 7 pm) for some creative cocktails. If you’re after something simpler, you can just head to the minimart right onsite and pick up a few supplies you forgot to buy in Ölüdeniz.

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Escape Adventures Looking for an amazing extreme sports experience in Ölüdeniz? Look no further. The staff members at Escape Adventures know and love their profession, and they make safety their number ISCOU one priority.

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Lykia World +90 252 617 02 83 info@escape.com.tr www.escape.com.tr

It’s normal to be nervous while mentally preparing yourself to go paragliding- floating thousands of feet above the ground? Yeah, that can be scary. Not to fear, though. The instructors at Escape Adventures are selected with the utmost care and are required to have five years of experience and 2,000 flight hours under their belts before signing on. Full insurance for every passenger is a company policy- that includes before, during, and after your flight. So where do you paraglide from? Babadağ (Father Mountain in English), which is the highest altitude for tandem paragliding

flights... in the world. Escape Adventures knows that they have a stellar reputation to uphold, and they work hard to keep their customers happy. They’ll gladly tailor the experience to your preferences, and canfor example- book you in for a morning or evening flight for better pictures. If you’re here on honeymoon, they can even give you cake and champagne midflight! Escape Adventures doesn’t only operate in the air, though. Check out their variety of water sports, including power boating, jet skis, water skis, parasailing, and wakeboarding.

Sky Sports Çarşı Cad. Tonoz Otel Altı +90 252 617 05 11 info@skysports-turkey.com www.skysports-turkey.com your trip, as it’s highly 10% discount COUNT weather-dependent and on photos you don’t want to be left and video flightless if it’s raining!

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Smack in the center of Ölüdeniz, Sky Sports Paragliding offers a convenient alternative for your flying experience. They’ll brief you on everything you need to know pre-trip, and their knowledgeable instructors can answer any questions you have about the “how” or the “what” of paragliding. Four flights run daily, but as with any paragliding company, definitely don’t book it for the last day of

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LYCIAN WAY

Kayaköy

Kayaköy When you think of ghost towns, you might be picturing empty saloons in the American Wild West. Kayaköy is every bit as dramatic and imposing as anything you can conjure up, and looms over the modern village below with a haunting grandeur. Kayaköy (previously known as Levissi) was a Greek town until 1923, when a population exchange between Greece and Turkey sent its inhabitants westward. The Greek Macedonian Muslims who were settled in their place didn’t stay for long; theories abound as to why (some a bit on the tin-foil-hat side, such as the one suggesting that the previous population poisoned the town’s water supply upon departing), but the most likely explanation is that the Macedonians were simply unused to such rough land and moved on when they found it difficult to cultivate. Years of sitting empty lend the collapsing buildings an air of melancholy poetry, helped along by the 1957 earthquake which further leveled the town. Now it sits deserted and crumbling... and a little bit creepy. Travelers with a taste for the bizarre and surprising can spend hours exploring the site to their hearts’ content. Make sure to visit the two churches and the village fountain; also take in the Mediterranean view from the chapel at Kayaköy’s highest point. The entire area of the town has been declared a museum by the Turkish state. As such, an entrance fee is charged during peak hours; if you have an open schedule and wish to avoid this, simply show up in the early morning or the evening and have the place to yourself... for free. A small modern town has been built at the foot of the hills, packed full of restaurants and wine houses despite its diminutive size. To reach Kayaköy, just hop on a dolmuş from Fethiye or Ölü Deniz. Alternatively, you can make the 8-kilometer hike from Fethiye and arrive on foot.

Kayaköy

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Kaya Sanat Kampı Kaya Sanat Kampı (in English, Kaya Art Camp) is an alternative traveler’s paradise. Just down the road from unmissable Kayaköy, the Art Camp is a maze of gazebos, greenery, and ISCOU sculptures peeking out from flower bushes and adorning fountains.

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The camp offers weekly workshops, and guests generally stay for at least one of them; as such, it’s less of a crash-for-the-night hostel setting and more of a place to unpack for a bit, settle in, get to know the artsy owners, and make friends from all over the world. Check out their schedule of workshops in advance and find one which interests you- typical examples include rhythm drumming, salsa dancing, and ceramics. The workshops appeal to beginners as well as advanced craftsmen. Don’t worry if you don’t have experience- just bring your enthusiasm! There’s something for everyone in a creative state of mind, so have a wander when you arrive and take a gander at the theater, the mini climbing wall, and the relics of past workshops which adorn the many winding paths through the camp. It would be difficult not to be inspired at Kaya.

LYCIAN WAY

+90 533 763 62 73 kayaartcamp@gmail.com www.sanatkampi.com

Three meals a day are served at the camp, all made from organic produce. Most of it is grown on-site, and agriculture enthusiasts can take a peek out back toward the garden. If you’re arriving on a Sunday, two free shuttles are provided from Fethiye. Otherwise, you’ll find it straightforward to get on the dolmuş and make your own way there. Get ready for the artistic experience of a lifetime, shared with like-minded people and all taking place in one of the most stimulating settings anywhere!

free pick-up OUNT DIS

C from After the morning workshop sessions, you Fethiye have time to relax. Hang out with fellow artisans and travelers or go for a stroll through town. If you’re full of energy, take advantage of the bikes or the volleyball court offered by the camp, or head out to one of the local bars.

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Kayaköy

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Village Garden The laid-back and welcoming Village Garden Pension, close to the main street of modern Kayaköy, is a warm haven for travelers trying to relax and recover from a hectic time in Fethiye or Ölüdeniz. Family-owned and operated, “cozy” and “comfortable” are both keywords here. The homely style and smiley owners just may make you feel that you’re stepping back in time to a less stressful era when people would drop by their neighbor’s house for a cup of sugar.

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Enjoy the spacious rooms and the simple, well-kept outdoor seating

Kınalı Mah. Gemiler Yolu +90 533 767 28 35 temelkiryaman@hotmail.com www.villagegardenturkey.com area (not to mention the magnificent views ubiquitous in this part of Turkey!) and sip some çay while you practice your Turkish with the locals wandering in and out to say hello to the pension’s managers. There’s a blazing fireplace in the winter, so don’t hesitate to book a stay even in the off season!

Levissi Garden Restaurant & Wine House

Kayaköy +90 533 247 59 34 info@levissigarden.com www.levissigarden.com The restaurant has a wide ISCOU selection of delicious local food- ask the staff for help choosing the right wine for your food, if you’re so inclined. Levissi Wine House is pure class and a visit here is the perfect way to feel as though you’re returning to civilization after a long day exploring the ruined city.

Stylish Levissi Wine House occupies a 400-year old stone building on the main corner of modern Kayaköy village. It would be difficult to describe the place without superlatives- just for one, it boasts the largest vineyards in southwestern Turkey, and an absolutely stunning collection of fine wines, the majority of them local. Don’t be in a big hurry to choose, though; they offer free wine tasting, so feel free to have a sample or three before making your final choice.

Kayaköy

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Han Camping Within the impressive atmosphere of Kayaköy, soaked in the green, this camping site is something very close to paradise . The place has been constantly renewed in the last years, and it has reached at the present very high quality infrastructure. From bungalows to camping, they are offering different kind of accommodation, friendly environment and great facilities. ISCOU Rooms in the village house and all the wooden houses have en-suite bathrooms (with shower and bath), air conditioning. Wooden houses also have small enjoyable terracces in front. The complex includes a bar, a huge garden with fruit trees and a swimming pool right in front of the historical village. The distinctive point of Han Camping is attention to details and you will notice it. Perfect place to relax, enjoy the nature and the suggestive atmosphere of Kayaköy, at the same time perfect starting point for all sorts of excursions in the are. You can choose to join some of the popular activities such as the mandatory visit to the village, boat trips, paragliding, diving, jeep safari, trekking along the Lycian Way... or you can chill out at their swimming pool enjoying the view. In the evening, there is nothing better than a bonfire and some cold beers in company of the other guests, far away from the noisy nightlife of Ölüdeniz.

Kayaköy +90 252 618 02 03 han@hancamping.com www.hancamping.com

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If you need any other advice about what to do in Fethiye or where to go next, ask the owners, they are very helpful and more than available to suggest you the best way to enjoy Turkey.

LYCIAN WAY

Faralya

Faralya Tiny Faralya is just a dot on the map, but nature lovers will find its scenic beauty nothing short of enchanting. You can hike through the mountains from Ovacık some 16 km north or simply take a dolmuş from Ölüdeniz- although the hairpin turns all along the cliffside coastal road may leave you just as breathless as if you’d opted for the trek! Save some energy to navigate the steep path down to Butterfly Valley, whose namesakes flutter in abundance around the rocks. The roundtrip takes around 45 minutes, but don’t rush- the path can be dangerous, especially when wet.

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George House

a requirement; their delicious (and included in the price!) breakfasts and dinners are carb-laden to pump you up for another day of trekking, or load up your plate with fresh and tasty vegetables. They’ll do lunch too, if you just can’t get enough- ask for a picnic lunch to take with you on a trek up the road or down to the valley, and they’ll pack it up for you. Relax in the common room, strewn with comfy pillows, or take a good book from their shelves down to the swimming pool and follow up a cool-down swim with a chapter or two. Airport transfers can be arranged from Dalaman if you’re in a hurry to get here and want to skip the hike.

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There’s an option for everyone at George House, and you can choose from bungalows, tree houses, camping, or larger ensuite rooms according to your budget and your preferences. If you’ve hiked from Fethiye or Ölüdeniz, staying at George House is almost

Tel: +90 252 642 11 02 faralya17@hotmail.com www.georgehousefaralya.com

The first thing you’ll notice about George House is the stunning view. Right smack at the top of the path down to Butterfly Valley, you can gaze down at the sea far below or dizzy yourself staring up at the stars. Breezes and, of course, butterflies are in abundance here, without a mosquito to be found in high season!

Kabak

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Kabak The dolmuş from Ölüdeniz or Fethiye will drop you off in Kabak village, from which point it’s up to you to follow the red-and-white Lycian Way markers down into the spectacular valley below. If you like bonfires, hammocks, flowers, and impossibly blue skies, you’ll feel right at home here. Spend your days chilling out with hikers and some of the most laid-back folks to be found anywhere, and you’ll soon see why many people who stop by for a night end up still sunning themselves on Kabak’s beach three weeks later. Make sure to walk or swim out to the cave a short way out from the shore.

Olive Garden Olive Garden’s motto is “our heart, your home”, and the outgoing managers will make certain that your stay lives up to these words. It’s built in the village proper at the top of the hill, so staying at Olive Garden will spare you the walk down (and more exhaustingly, up) the steep trails to the valley, and even better, the views from the top are completely unbeatable. You can wile away an entire day watching gulls soaring overhead or allowing yourself to be mesmerized by the impossibly blue waters of the sea. Tranquility is a way of life here.

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Olive Garden has a reputation for providing, bar none, the best food for miles around. Their local and professional chef’s passion for cooking is obvious in his traditional Turkish dishes; Fatih’s name is a byword for deliciousness in these parts. In fact, Turks as well as travelers come from far and wide for a taste of his specialties. The scents of spices and vegetables in the air will keep your mouth watering all day.

Tel: +90 252 642 10 83 info@olivegardenkabak.com www.olivegardenkabak.com

The environmentally-friendly bungalows are clean and comfortable, sleeping two people each. Hot water is available all the time, so wash off the grime with a shower and then head out to the terrace lounge where you can take in the panorama at sunset. If you’re arriving from Dalaman, take the dolmuş to Kabak village and you’ll find signs directing you toward the (very) brief path to Olive Garden from the center.

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Kabak

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Latcho Camp Latcho Camp is located on the headland of Kabak Valley, lying back on the green mountains and crossing its legs towards the turquoise sea. Latcho is a camp respectful to the unique Kabak Valley, its habitat and spirit.

Uzunyurt Köyü, Kabak +90 252 652 11 70 camplatcho@gmail.com www.latchocamp.com

The camp embraces the stars in ISCOU the night with its crystal-clear sky. As its guests say, it shines out with super-delicious organic foods and the unique valley scene. It is just a stone’s throw away from the beach and has a live music stage which welcomes many musicians and travellers. There are bungalows and a wide tent area . In the camp area, you

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can put up with your own tent or one can be provided for you. The bungalows are furnished with a double bed, bed net, cloth-shelf and a carpet. Daily cost per person also includes breakfast and dinner.

Reflections Camping The fourth camp established in Kabak and still a favorite with seasonal travelers, Reflections is a wonderfully laid-back and relaxed niche in the sunlit and remotefeeling forest of the valley. Its emphasis on environmentally-friendly practices will win over your ecological sympathies in a hurry. The dedication to green living is more than skin deep, and Reflections is one of the very few camps in Kabak which sort their trash for recycling.

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You’ll feel like a druid or an artist in Reflections’ natural bungalows and treehouses, surrounded by crafts lovingly created by the chilled-out staff

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Uzunyurt Köyü, Kabak +90 252 642 10 20 contact@reflectionscamp.com www.reflectionscamp.com and past generations of travelers. Check out the amazing fireplace, the mosaics, and the wood sculptures found in nooks and crannies all around you. If you’re ready to get your tan on, head to the beach- it’s less than a ten-minute walk down to the cove. Take the opportunity to solicit local information from the staff- great English is spoken here!

Xanthos - Letoon

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Xanthos Letoon’s sister-site and administrative capital, as well as Lycia’s largest city, the ruins at Xanthos are a must-see. The phrase ‘fiercely independent’ gets thrown around a lot with regard to Mediterranean city-states, but the first-century BC inhabitants of Xanthos take the cake. Several centuries after a near-suicidal attempt to hold off Persian forces, its inhabitants went a step further and actually committed mass suicide rather than see their city taken by the invading Romans. Today, Xanthos is a sprawling site boasting pillar tombs, basilicas, stone buildings, and ancient roads aplenty, and a French team of excavators is still hard at work unearthing more. An entrance fee is charged for a stroll around the site’s principal ruins, but you can explore the current excavation area for free. Xanthos can be reached via the well-signposted road from nearby Kınık.

Letoon Letoon, a joint UNESCO World Heritage Site with Xanthos, is perhaps the most romantic of the surviving Lycian sites. Temples devoted to the three most central deities in the Lycian religion (Leto, from whom the complex owes its name, and her children Apollo and Artemis), rise eerily from green and often flooded fields, deserted for 1400 years. Yet cult goddess-worship is just one side to Letoon’s significance. Also discovered at the site was the Trilingual Stele, akin to the Rosetta Stone, which contributed to the decipherment of the Lycian language. Letoon lies approximately 5 km from the village of Kınık and can easily be reached on an afternoon jaunt from Fethiye or Kaş. Detailed maps of the area are sold at the ticket booth, and may be worth picking up if you plan to visit more out-of-the-way ruins.

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Pınara

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Pınara Pınara holds the intriguing distinction of being one of the least-visited yet most impressive archaeological sites along Turkey’s southern coast. Six kilometers from the main road, two of which snake precariously up a dirt track from the village of Minare, you’ll find yourself facing an immense cliffside punctuated by ‘honeycomb’ tombs cut into the rock and a well-preserved amphitheater ringed by wildflowers. Visitors are free to wander as they wish and discover for themselves the numerous graves and temples scattered between the mountain and the valley. The sheer scope of the site is a clue to its historical importance; Pınara was one of the six largest Lycian cities until it was deserted in the 9th century AD. Bring your camera for some spectacular panoramas taking in the architecture and the view!

Karadere Özlen Restaurant & Pension

 Most travelers visiting Letoön and Xanthos move on to Kaş to crash for the night, but if you’re keen to be one of the few staying put a bit farther from the crowds, stop by Özlen Pension in small and highly authentic village of Karadere. The family-run restaurant features organic food, much of which is grown on-site (ask for a ISCOU quick tour of their impressive tomato and cucumber greenhouses!). Take a walk to the beach for a splash or just

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Bükceyiz Mah. +90 252 677 76 35 www.ozlenpansiyon.com hang out and practice your Turkish next to the river. Situated right off the Lycian Way, Özlen is also a calm and friendly place for hikers to kick back for a bit and recover some steam; camp for free if you’ve brought your own tent.

Patara

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Patara Visitors to Patara are usually after two things: ruins and beaches. Don’t be put off by its small size, because Patara has both in abundance. Another of ancient Lycia’s six largest cities, along with Xanthos and Pınara, it was the civilization’s primary sea port; this strategic importance led to its early annexation by Roman forces. In slightly more recent history, Patara gained recognition for being the birthplace of Nicholas of Myra (better known as Santa Claus) around 300 AD, although the man in red spent most of his life in nearby Demre. Take a look at the ancient theater and temple just outside the city, and then go for a stroll on the beach- unless you’re bursting with energy, though, don’t try to make it all the way to the end. At 18 uninterrupted kilometers, this is one of the longest beaches in the world!

Akay Pension

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Akay Pension is erupting with coloreverything from the furnishings to the flowers adoring the terrace and dining area will make you feel like you’ve stepped into a bright dream world.

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Twelve rooms are available, each of which features a balcony and a private bathroom. The facilities are all cozy and tidy, but the real highlight of the place is the friendly family who owns and runs it. Ayşe is in charge of the cooking, and can prepare all kinds of tasty Turkish cuisine to your personal preferences. Even better, breakfast is available all day long,

Merkez Patara +90 242 843 50 55 info@pataraakaypension.com www.pataraakaypension.com a rarity in Turkey! That combined with the tea, apple tea, and coffee which are all free from morning to night will keep you planted on the terrace for long hours, sipping and snacking to your heart’s content. If you’re up for a bit of partying and want to head out to check out the local nightlife, don’t worry: reception is 24 hours and there’s no lockout here.

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Kaş

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The mid-sized town of Kaş makes a perfect base for travelers looking to explore the treasures of Mediterranean Turkey without succumbing to the tourist frenzy of the larger cities closer to the region’s airports. It’s surging with character and everything from budget options to luxury shopping are on offer here. In particular, try Chez Evy (Terzi St. No:4) for some mouthwatering French cuisine in an upscale setting. Most everything is within walking distance, so take an afternoon or- why not?- a full week and investigate the shops and the seaside on foot. If you’re looking for some authentic Turkish souvenirs such as jewelry or handmade carpets, Kaş is definitely the right place to be.

Ateş Pansiyon

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The gregarious and helpful owners of Ateş Pension, located on a picturesque little back street, are always ready to help you practice your Turkish or give you directions around the city. The upstairs reception and common area is stocked with absolutely everything you could ask for in ISCOU a hostel. One of the biggest book exchanges this side of Antalya offers novels, travel guides, and references books in a variety of languages, and the comfortable raised couch/chill-out spot has numerous nargiles (water pipes) at your disposal if you’re in the mood to partake in this most Turkish of smoking traditions.

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Yeni Camii Cad. No. 3 +90 242 836 13 93 atespension@gmail.com www.atespension.com Ateş Pension has a great restaurant on the terrace and long tables where you can chat with your new and old friends- and you’ll get a free drink on arrival to make you feel right at home starting the minute you walk in the front door. They’ve got alcohol at the bar as well if you need a little something extra to help you relax and unwind. Ateş Pension is just minutes from the beach and a short stroll from the bustling center of town. The bus station isn’t much farther, but you can call ahead and they’ll come pick you up if you’ve got heavy bags and would prefer not to make the walk.

Kaş

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Kaş Camping Perfect for hikers and budget travelers, Kaş Camping occupies a perfect location on the seafront, ideal for watching the sunset over the water or taking advantage of the many water sports arranged here. Pretty little bungalows are scattered throughout the gardens which decorate the camp, or you can choose ISCOU to pitch a tent if camping is more your style. Furthermore, RV parking areas are available for those of you with your own transportation.

Hastane Cad. No. 3 +90 242 836 10 50 info@kascamping.com www.kascamping.com

Water and electricity are available throughout the camp. Check out the bar and restaurant right by the water and don’t forget to inquire about sundiving, Kaş Camping’s own style of diving!

Kuytu Köşe Pension

Kuytu Köşe (name stands for “sheltered corner”) is a hidden gem in the very center of Kaş. Definetely one of the friendliest places in Kaş which specializes in welcoming guests with a big smile. Having the same owners of Kuytu cafe (on the opposite corner), staff is helpful in any kind of questions. Newly renovated old ISCOU house offers comfortable and cozy accomodations with specious design

Merkez Mahallesi. İlkokul St. No:1 +90 533 661 31 54 facebook.com/kuytukosepansiyon rooms. You can also have your breakfast(strongly suggested) on the terrace with the complete view of the town.

Kuytu Cafe Bar

Have you just passed by a colorful cafe full of flowers and plants? Then we suggest you to stop and go back! You are in Kuytu Cafe Bar, the right place to enjoy some homemade food or a drink. This place, very well decorated, relaxed, shadowed, green, offers breakfasts, lunches ISCOU and dinner. The menu is suitable for every taste: pastas, salads, Turkish food, snacks and all sorts

Merkez Mah. İlkokul St. No: 1 +90 242 836 24 88 facebook.com/KuytuCafeBar of beverages. Occasional acoustic concerts are held in its cozy atmosphere. Try kuytu çay and enjoy the music...

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Kekova/ Üçağız

Üçağız is a pretty little fishing village close to Kaş and can be reached by dolmuş or on one of the numerous boat tours offered from more popular destinations around the area. The name means “three mouths” in Turkish, referring to the trio of rivers which flow into the sea here. The Turkish government declared the town and surrounding region a protected area in early 1990. At the time, Üçağız was little-visited and even smaller than it was today, lacking even a passable road. While now, just over 20 years later, the road is definitely navigable by public transportation or in your own rented car, it’s still a 19-kilometer precariously snaking passage and you may be tempted to arrive the old-fashioned way: by boat. The government has since relaxed the restrictions placed on diving and building in the area, but some limitations remain and the town has fortunately not lost its quaint charm. Seafood lovers will want to unpack their things and settle down in Üçağız. As a fishing town, there are all the toothsome Mediterranean dishes you could hope for here and numerous fish restaurants near the port. One local favorite, Hassan Restaurant, is run by (who else?) Hassan himself, who speaks English and German. Frequented by sailors, this character-rich eatery features momentos left behind by previous travelers and serves up all kinds of seafood as well as a selection of grills. Keep an eye out for Hassan’s smiling face on posters around town! A stroll around the hilly but kaleidoscopic town center will reveal several Lycian tombs nestled in between the ubiquitous old stone houses. Cross your fingers that the current building restrictions will continue for at least several years to come... in the meantime, hurry here while the small-town vibe in Üçağız remains!

Simena

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Simena Most visitors to Kekova and Üçağız come with the primary goal of checking out the spectacular sunken city of Simena. Once a thriving Lycian city composed of an island and a mainland area (now known as Kaleköy, “castle village”), an earthquake in the 2nd century AD caused a large section of the residential area to slide underwater. Now, 19 centuries later, it remains partly submerged and can be explored from the surface or underwater; thanks to special protection from the Turkish government since 1990, it remains exceedingly well-preserved and has not been much damaged by the tourism boom of the last several decades. The above-water ruins are no less fascinating and include a necropolis and numerous sarcophagi, as well as Kaleköy’s namesake castle built by the Knights of Rhodes on the ancient foundations, but if you’ve made the trip out here it’s probably the underwater part you’re mainly looking to see. Check out the bizarre spectacle of staircases leading into the sea and windows half above, half below the waves.

Likya Pension Üçağız Köyü +90 242 874 20 90 gokkaya07@mynet.net

about the free boat trip you’re entitled to for staying in Likya as well! After feeling the sea breezes in your hair and peering down into the blue waters of the Mediterranean for an afternoon, you may just decide to extend your stay.

It’s nearly a one-stop shop for everything you might be after. The carpet shop next door is affiliated with the pension, so stop by if you want to pick up some textiles. Inquire

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This charming pension in central Üçağız is one of the few places to drop your bags in town if you’re planning to stay the night here. Covered in flowers and climbing vines, the two-story building in which you’ll be staying sometimes seems like it’s frequented more by locals than by international travelers. Indeed, there’s a homey feel here, and a stay at Likya Pension will have you imagining that you’ve lived in town all your life.

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Demre / Andriake

Demre Although he was born in the nearby village of Patara, Demre is where Santa Claus spent most of his life. Of course, the historical figure hadn’t yet taken on his modern form as a bearded, present-delivering man dressed all in red and white, but the legend of Saint Nicholas is still very much present in the town today. You’ll find the very cool 11-century Church of Saint Nicholas here, which used to house his bones, although they were carried off by thieves on the hunt for holy remains.

Andriake Famous as he may be, Demre isn’t all about the local saint. Crowning the hill about the town is an imposing ruin, Andriake, only recently discovered in 2009 and currently under excavation by students from Akdeniz (Mediterranean) University. The main building to be seen is a Roman synagogue dating back to about 500 AD, identified as such by the Latin inscriptions as well as a marble slab depicting a menorah and other symbols of Judaism. Besides that, the view is fantastic, particularly at dusk when you can watch the sun sinking over the port to the west. Wildflowers grow in abundance. You’ll most likely have the place to yourself, especially in early morning or late afternoon, as Andriake is not yet wellknown in guidebooks. Now is your chance to be one of the first visitors! The road to the site is poorly signposted, so you may have to ask around for directions; as a starting point, head toward the harbor from the center of town and look out for a left-hand turn taking you up the mountains. If you have your own transportation, you can park in an open gravel lot just before the yellow sign announcing the path to the ruins.

Demre / Andriake

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Andriake Camping & Cafe Andriake Camping is perfect for travelers keen to be among the first to check out the Roman ruins visible up on the cliffside or for Lycian Way hikers searching for a spot to sling down their backpacks and sprawl out for a while.

ISCOU Run for most of the year by an animated and outgoing friendly people, you’ll find yourself deep in conversation before you’ve even sat down for a steaming cup of tea at the cafe picnic table. The managers are always ready to help you out with anything you need (such as directions to the elusive ruins!), and they can set you up with local activities including boat tours to Kekova, fishing, sea kayaking, and guided walking on the nearby Lycian Way, among a plethora of other options. D

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Andriake Harbor +90 242 871 31 30 baris@andiake.com www.andriake.com You can choose your preferred style of rustic accommodation here; take your pick of a parking spot for your mobile home, a place to pitch your own tent, or large and dorm-like, jazzy, gypsy-style yurts provided by the camp.

Wireless internet is provided, alongside other helpful services such as laundry, electricity plugs to keep you wired in, board games, and a great book exchange in several languages. They can pick you up from Demre, Myra, or Zeytin if you’d prefer not to find your own way to the camp’s metaphorical doorstep: you’ll arrive in style and all set to enjoy the upbeat music coming from the restaurant’s speakers, along with a nap or a stroll along the harbor. And don’t worry, you won’t go hungry. You can get breakfast here in the mornings, a traditional Turkish spread made from all local ingredients; a barbecue dinner is prepared every evening with a varied and delicious selection of meat and vegetables.

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Olympos

Olympos You probably recognize the name Olympos from your school-days classes in Greek and Roman mythology: the home of the gods, it boasts a number of incredible ruins, as you may well expect. You won’t be disappointed by multifarious ancient sites to be found here, although those in search of solitude should take heed. Olympos is major stop on southern Turkey’s beaten tourist track, and you may be put off by the crowds, especially in the peak summer months from June to August. Also see the Chimaera, named for the mythical fire-spitting monster (part-lion, part-goat, part-snake) of Roman folklore. Today the term refers to the eternal flames which burn from the mountain-side above Olympos. You’ll be amazed by the unique natural phenomenon of the fires- caused by methane gas leaking out from the earth, they will reignite themselves if you attempt to put one out. Don’t forget to bring a flashlight with you on the walk up- you’ll want to go at night for maximum effect, and some of the trails can be treacherous in the dark. As the town of Olympos is under government protection which severely limits modern construction, facilities are limited. Fortunately, the owners of the many pensions here recognize this and will cater for most of your needs, including food and alcohol. There’s an ATM and a small supermarket, but plan ahead by bringing the majority of the supplies you’ll need from Kaş or Antalya. Take a bus from Antalya (some 70 kilometers to the north) or south from Kumluca or Kaş. The larger buses won’t take you all the way down to Olympos proper and will instead leave you roughly 10 kilometers outside of town at a junction featuring a great view and a cafe. Dolmuşes from this point are frequent, so you shouldn’t have any trouble completing the trip into the valley.

Olympos

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Kadir’s Tree Houses

Have you ever stayed in a tree house? Well, we suggest you to try it at this place. On pine trees, they accommodate from 1 up to 5 people each. Don’t expect an en-suite toilet up there. If you are looking for more comfort, you can still opt for the bungalows

Olympos +90 242 892 12 50 info@kadirstreethouses.com www.kadirstreehouses.com (with or without air-conditioning) or dorms. Obviously you can also set up your own tent. This place has expanded quite surprisingly during six years and they now have 100 bungalows, 15 cabins, 10 dorms and camping ground. Breakfast and dinner is included in the price of night stay. The breakfast is served in five different options while dinner consists of a buffet with five-six different dishes. Kadir is mainly vegetarian or with chicken and red meat is served only two times in a week. In Kadir you’ll find three bars with plenty of ares to relax and places to organize bonfires outside, a seafood restaurant and other facilities (laundry, volley ball, tennis tables). You can also rent a scooter or a bike or arrange with the travel agency activities such as scuba diving, rock climbing, bike tours, sea kayaking, hiking, cable car tour, boat trips and many others.

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This place really makes you feel as if you are lost in nowhere’s land. Only difference from the island of Robinson Crusoe is that your company might be quite numerous. The ground of the camp can host up to 300 people at the same time! The perfect place if you are looking for travel mates for the rest of your trip.

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Olympos 

Bayram’s Tree House

buffet breakfast every morning to help you get some caffeine and carbs in your system to recover from last night. Chill in a hammock while you eat and then challenge someone to a game of that old Turkish favorite, backgammon. Or maybe nargile is more your style; Bayram’s will supply you with a water pipe so you can relax and puff away all day long in the orange grove.

low season

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Dorms and private bungalows with ensuite bathrooms are both offered here- included in the price are both dinner and a massive

+90 242 892 12 43 olympos@bayrams.com www.bayrams.com

Leisure is a way of life at this chilled-out to the max dive. In Olympos, “Bayram’s” has pretty much become a synonym for... well, everything from “fun” to “relaxation” to “partying.” You’re sure to find hordes of likeminded travelers congregating here for a chat or a beer, and everyone from the outgoing international bar staff to visitors from other camps drawn by the bouncy music will be sprawled out on the pillow-strewn platforms or trading travel stories across the courtyard’s many picnic tables until the early hours of the morning. The motto in camp is “come for a day, stay for a week”... and despite your bestlaid plans, you probably will.

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Bayram’s isn’t just about lazing around in the sun with a cold Efes, though. They do trips to the eternal flame every night and can hook you up with some even more adventurous activities like rock jumping and kayaking if you’re so inclined. There’s also an in-house travel agency to help you plan your next stop; they do cruises as well, so if you want to get up close and personal with the Mediterranean, take a look. Also offered are a laundry service, a book exchange, safe-deposit boxes to store your valuables, and international phone calls.

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LYCIAN WAY

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Sheriff Pension Sheriff (sometimes seen as the Turkish transliteration, Şerif ) is a little piece of heaven nestled in the valley, with a laid-back vibe competing with what feels like an everpresent party waiting to burst through. You’ll sleep in a charming bungalow between groves of orange and pomegranate trees, feeling like a figure from some mythical story- until you stroll out to to the outdoor common area ringed with greenery and full of other travelers, and then you’ll just want to put your party hat on and make some new buddies.

magic of Olympos. They’d be more than happy to sit down with you and tell you about the region (particularly the Chimaera and the Lycian Way), or even just to share stories about the more than twenty years they’ve been operating. At night, things heat up around the bar with world music in the summer and the pleasant hum of Efesfueled conversation. When you look up at the stars and listen to the rhythmic beat of international bands, you’ll want nothing more than to stay here forever. Discounts are available for children under the age of 12, and there are frequent outings after seven pm.

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It won’t take you long to realize how passionate the staff at Şerif is about the

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Each of the forty bungalows has a shower, bathroom, and the extremely important air conditioning to keep you cool in the hot summer months; if you’re on a budget, spring for one of the seven slightly more rustic rooms without ensuite facilities.

Olympos +90 242 892 13 01 info@olympos.biz www.olympospansiyon.com

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Olympos

LYCIAN WAY

Eski Yeni Plenty of people come to Olympos with partying on the mind, as the place ís reputation most definitely precedes it. If you’re among their number, it’s hard to top the fun, hip Eski Yeni (meaning “Old New” in Turkish). It’s closed in the winter months, but in summer, there’s pretty much a nonstop party happening here, with live concerts featuring the hottest alternative bands. But wait, it gets better- there’s no entrance fee, ever. Just grab some friends, get a drink, and enjoy the music in the garden.One

Kiliseyakası No:116 Olympos/Kumluca +90 242 892 13 42 info@eskiyeni.com.tr www.eskiyeni.com.tr of the first things you’ll notice about Olympos is that it’s a sprawling place. Fortunately, the owners of Eski Yeni have planned ahead for this, and now offer shuttles from the various pensions.

Eski Yeni Holiday Houses Eski Yeni is a bit far from the sprawling crowd of Olympos’s center, though mostly prefered by nature lovers. the facility has spread over 4 acres of land in which there are more then 700 trees. This quite, peaceful and friendly pension also has a swimming pool, playground for kids, parking area and a restaurant. Many types of accomodation options (adobe houses, wooden houses and big tents) all include bathrooms, breakfast and dinner.

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Kiliseyakası No:116 Olympos/Kumluca +90 242 892 13 41 info@eskiyenitatilevi.com www.eskiyenitatilevi.com Although its relaxing and quite atmosphere, pension is just next door to Eski Yeni Bar, where you can find one of the craziest dancing night with live music.

Cafe Cactus and Camping It never takes anyone long to get into the chilledout yet party-friendly and nature-oriented vibe omnipresent in Olympos; Cafe Cactus embraces all three aspects of this unique place to their fullest extent. It’s one of the few places here you can pitch your own tent- they have raised wooden platforms for the purpose so you won’t run the risk of getting wet. Breakfast and a tasty, massive dinner are included in the price.

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The main attraction of Cafe Cactus, though, is the live music,

Yazır Köyü Olympos Mevkii +90 242 892 19 55 cactus@olymposcactus.com www.olymposcactus.com primarily reggae, funk, and pop. All it will take for you to kick off your shoes and rearrange your itinerary so you can stay here longer is one night sitting under the lemon trees, rocking out to the beats, and sipping an ice-cold beer from the bar. Try it for yourself!

Kumluca/Adrasan

LYCIAN WAY

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Kumluca / Adrasan 12 kilometers beyond the wealthy town of Kumluca, you’ll come to the a pretty bay- this is Adrasan, a perfect place to stop for the afternoon and take in the view from the beach. Development is quite slow here due to the government protection over the entire park region, but it is proceeding despite the regulations and you can find a number of modern buildings catering to the traveler crowd here.

Street Cafe & Pension The Street Cafe occupies a fantastic location on the north end of Adrasan Bay, great for watching the sun set and the moon rise. This is absolutely the place to be for enjoying life’s simple pleasures- sun, sand, and sea. The welcoming managers (Ramazan, Birgit, and their son Timur) speak English, Turkish, and German. COUNT

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Free welcomedrink

Book a bungalow here if you fancy a longer stay- you can get a small one designed for 2-4 people, or a larger one which sleeps up to eight if you’re traveling in a group. Escape the heat in your air-conditioned room before heading outside again in the cool of twilight! Being a family-oriented type of place, the Street

Deniz Mah. Deniz Cad. +90 242 883 13 54 contact@streetcafe-adrasan.de www.streetcafe-adrasan.de Cafe and Pension offers all kinds of facilities you won’t find elsewhere and should be your first choice if you have young ones with you. Everything from baby monitors to cribs can be had- all you have to do is ask. You can tell by the name that this is one place which takes its food seriously. Restaurant by day and bar by night, you’ll discover all sorts of local dishes and drinks here. Take care to try the cheesecake and cappucinos, both house specialties. Ask about the nearby vegetable and spice market which takes place on Sundays!

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LYCIAN WAY

Kumluca/Adrasan

Jungle Bells

The offer of activities is really stunning. Among the pre-organized ones, tours to Adrasan, Olympos, Kekova and the Sunken City. You can also join the trips to the “eternal flames” (fires produced by the gas boiling up from the mountain, which has been burning for over 100 years), fishing trip, canyoning tours (not available in winter) or club crawling! The options are many, just follow your mood! If you are in a big ISCOU group you can also create your own itinerary for a full day of adventures.

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Here you can choose among several accommodations options: tree houses, bungalows, dorms or tent and caravan sites. Breakfast and dinner are included in the price for those staying in the houses, bungalows and dorms. For any other needs, Jungle Bar is open for snacks and drinks (both alcoholic and non).

Adrasan beach +90 242 883 14 24 info@junglebells.com www.junglebellshostel.com

Jungle Bells Hostel, open all year long, has an alternative aura and unique position, with nature’s great green and sea’s perfect blue seen behind the beach way (only 7 minutes away). The hostel gives services as guidance for activities and trip, free wi-fi connection in community areas, transfer to Airport, Bus station and nearest town centers, free private beach, sun beds and umbrellas, free laundry service. Pets are also welcome to the camp.

Staff is extremely friendly and helpful, in case you need advices or assistance during your stay.

Kaleiçi

ANTALYA

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Kaleiçi / Antalya The 2200 year old city of Antalya, founded by the Greeks and originally known as Attalia, is nowadays one of the largest ports on Turkey’s southern coast. Many travelers to the region either start or end their Mediterranean explorations here, and it has become hugely important on Turkey’s tourism scene; millions of people visit every year. Grab a map and check out the Aspendos Theater, still standing from Roman times, as well as the impressive archaeology museum, the best in the area. Don’t miss Kaleiçi (which roughly translates to “inside the castle”). Passing through the historical Hadrian’s Gate, you can go for a leisurely stroll down cobbled streets taking you past ancient buildings and ruins; the area is under government protection, and efforts are being taken to preserve the classical elements present in Antalya’s old district. Kaleiçi may remind you of western Europe’s old towns, with its narrow alleys and imposing stone walls. If you are looking for some fun nights, check-out Simurg Cafe&Bar (Tabakhane st. no:7) or for more live events Simurg Temple (Hamam St. no:2).

Sabah Pansiyon Sabah Pension is the first family-owned guesthouse in the whole of the old city, so they have both the experience and the welcoming vibe to make you feel right at home. Nearly 25 years old, Sabah has had plenty of time to get everything in order- and they have, as evidenced by the hordes of guidebooks and travelers who recommend this place with outspoken enthusiasm. It’s more than just a hostel- it’s a meeting point for backpackers of all nationalities.

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With small dorms, a breezy garden, a restaurant and bar, and a swimming pool, you’ll find everything you need here.

Kaleiçi Kılınçaslan Mh. Hesapcı St. No. 60 +90 242 247 53 45 sabahpansiyon@yahoo.com www.sabahpansiyon.com

Of course, the owners are ready to help you organize tours, airport transfers, and activities if you like. The pension is highly Englishfriendly, with fluent staff and daily English newspapers available for your perusal if you want to keep up with the news from home (for more personal updates, take advantage of the wi-fi).

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MERSİN

Kızkalesi

Once an ancient Anatolian city known as Corycus (sometimes spelled Korykos), Kızkalesi is a somewhat foreboding, though undoubtedly beautiful, castle sitting on a tiny island close to shore. The name, which means “Maiden’s Castle” in English, refers to a legend in which a girl was cursed by an evil magician and sent by her father to live in this isolated castle in a desperate attempt to prevent the enchantment from coming true. It turns out, however, that the island on which it sits used to be connected to the mainland by a narrow strip of land, so- gasp- the legend probably had no basis in fact. A group of nearby caves are well worth checking out- known as the Heaven and Hell, these interconnected passages go more than 20 meters underground. Stop for a visit at the little church built by Saint Paulus in antiquity. 30 kilometers north of Silifke lies another unmissable destination. Uzuncaburc, as it is now known, consists of an expanse of breathtaking ruins, remarkably well-preserved. The height of the city’s prominence lasted from Roman times through the Byzantine era, and you can see remnants of both in the theater, grave markers, and temple devoted to Zeus. The Adam Rocks, located in Devil Valley (roughly 8 kilometers distant from Kızkalesi), probably date back to the Roman era. The carved figures display men, women, and children in a visibly antiquated style. Getting to Kızkalesi is generally a breeze, with frequent dolmuşes running from Silifke and the more distant Mersin (60 kilometers away).

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Rain Hotel

The service is definitely a cut above most budget accommodation here- the rooms are cleaned daily, and you can get room service 24 hours a day, including alcoholic drinks. You can arrange to have your laundry done, and the front desk can hold onto valuable items to give you some peace of mind.

33790 Kızkalesi - Mersin +90 324 523 27 82 rain.hotel@hotmail.com www.rainhotel.com

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I Every traveler’s hub needs a quiet place to sit and plan out your next move. Rain’s comes in the form of a pleasant cafe on a parallel street serving hot beverages and local dishes, great for satisfying your appetite and working out your where-to at the same time. If you prefer not to figure it all out alone, head next door to Oztop’s Rain Travel Agency, including outings to the caves, Uzuncaburc, the Adam Rocks, and more. In addition to all the great daytrips in the area, they offer services such as transfers, flight reservations, and hotel bookings. They also offer a 10% discount to travelers who show up with a copy of Hike East. You can find their website at www.oztoprain.com. D

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Rain Hotel is a top pick for accommodation in Kızkalesi. Opened in 1997, they have 18 rooms with a total of 40 beds, each featuring stylish wooden architecture and a clean, airy ambience. Telephones, showers, and wi-fi come standard, as well as the slightly more unusual feature of orthopedic beds, a traveler’s best friend. Rain is open year round and has split air conditioning so you can crank up the AC in the summer and blast some heat in the winter; there’s even a fireplace where you can toast your hands.

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Ankara

Turkey’s capital city since the early 1920s, Ankara is also the country’s second largest metropolis after İstanbul. You may have been told to steer clear and spend your travel time elsewhere, but don’t be misled; Ankara’s reputation for being boring is greatly overstated and both partygoers and cultural history buffs will find plenty to occupy them. On top of that, it’s an attractive city; many of the shops and restaurants in central Ulus are built in reconstructed buildings from time gone by. You’ll find leather, spices, and other goods for sale in its winding alleys. The Atatürk memorial, Anıtkabir, features huge collections of memorabilia belonging to Turkey’s most celebrated leader and is well worth a visit even if you aren’t typically a museum enthusiast. Take in his extensive sword collection, his impressive library, several of his cars, and even his favorite dog (taxidermied, of course). You can easily spend a day or three visiting Ankara’s many museums, from the METU

Science and Technology Museum to the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. If monumental architecture is more your thing, head up to Ulus and explore the twisting alleys of Ankara’s hilltop castle, filled with small shops and surprises. If you’re in search of a good cafe or a stiffer drink, you’ll want to head to the central district of Kızılay. Bars and teahouses abound here, and many locations transform into booming clubs after dark. In particular, check out Nefes Bar located at Yenişehir Postanesi Karşısı (+90 312 433 02 80), a spacious spot with a restaurant and live music nearly every night. Being central in terms of both geographical location and political importance, Ankara is easy to reach from anywhere in the country and makes a great hub for further explorations of Turkey and beyond. Arriving by air, you’ll come in 28 kilometers northwest of the city proper. If buses are more your style, you’ll find yourself at the terminal locally known as AŞTİ, connected to the central districts by a metro line.

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Deeps Hostel Smack in the middle of Ankara and only five minutes from the city center and right next to Kolej Metro Station, Deeps is the city’s first backpacker-style hostel. The walls are brightly-painted and the atmosphere is welcoming, the whole place geared towards budget travelers and world-wandering students. You’re sure to be among ISCOU friends at Deeps.

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They have private rooms for up to four people, all with shared bathrooms, or you can opt for a bed in one of the six or eight-person mixed dormitories. There’s a pretty garden, a lounge area, and a common kitchen well-stocked with utensils

Ataç 2 St. No:46 - Kızılay +90 312 213 63 38 info@deepshostelankara.com www.deepshostelankara.com and appliances. If you stay longer than five days, you can use the laundry facilities for free! Being a city hostel, don’t expect to have silent nights. The traffic noise is part of the city life!

Nefes Bar Nefes is a popular venue with young people, not only at night but also any time hunger strikes. With an outside patio attached to the well-known restaurant, you’ll find Nefes Bar buzzing with activity any time you happen to stop by. The grills are particularly excellent and the free roka salads which come with them are no less delicious. Try one of their interesting ice-cream mix, with liquors and fresh fruit. At night, the alcohol comes out and locals throng to the Nefes Bar performance hall, hosting all sorts of fun shows including local

Mithatpaşa Cad. Tüp Geçit Yanı No: 25/A (Yenişehir Postanesi Karşısı) Kızılay +90 312 433 02 80 www.nefesbar.com rock bands, alternative music, and cover bands. You can check out the schedule of events (as well as a menu) online to choose what best fits your taste: reggae, blues, rock&roll, Latin, Greek, Balkan or..?

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Cappadocia

Cappadocia A visit to Cappadocia, situated in the heart of Anatolia, may be the closest any of us will ever get to being on the moon. The region’s famous fairy chimneys stretch for miles in every direction, looking like something out of the more mythical side of Turkey’s history. You may be startled and bemused by the sight of all these spooky and highly memorable formations at first, but a few days in the territory will make you feel like a regular cave-dweller yourself. The unusual “earth architecture” initially appears to be folkloric, perhaps created by some ancient Greek god. In reality, Cappadocia’s strange formations are the result of volcanic activity from three local peaks (Erciyes, Hasan, and Melendiz), which spread the soft material called tuff across the landscape approximately 30 million years ago. The unique combination of tuff and volcanic ash, along with millennia of erosion by wind and water left behind the stunning chimneys you can see today. Equally mind-blowing are the innumerable caves cut into the rock by early inhabitants which are still used today for everything from houses to restaurants to storerooms; plan a trip to Göreme if you’re keen on seeing these dwellings still in common use.

If you’re curious about the historical inhabitants of the area, definitely make a visit to the underground cities a priority. Here, you’ll find a striking early religious influence, created during the Roman period when Christians attempting to escape government persecution took shelter under the earth. They built houses and cathedrals on plans featuring up to eight subterranean stories and kilometer upon kilometer of tunnels. Although frequent buses and dolmuşes run between the main sites of tourist interest here, the roads are often poor quality and the sites are quite spread out. If you’re on a tight schedule and money isn’t an obstacle, you might want to look into renting a car for the duration of your stay in Cappadocia.

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Göreme

The small but vibrant town of Göreme makes an excellent base for seeing the highlights of Cappadocia. A 30-minute bus trip from the much larger Nevşehir, Göreme is tiny enough that you won’t get lost and in all likelihood your hostel will be mere steps from the very central otogar. Don’t let its small size deceive you, though! Göreme’s packed with things to see and do, and is the only place in Cappadocia where locals still live in the dug-out caves at the base of the fairy chimneys. Cappadocia is as scenic as it comes, and hikers will be in paradise. Be sure not to miss the gorgeous treks through Pigeon Valley and Rose Valley, both of which guarantee panoramas you’ll not soon forget; pick up a free map from the bus station, as the trails are sometimes poorly signposted. By the time you end up in Göreme, you’ll probably have heard travelers from all over raving about the Open-Air Museum, a short walk from the city center. Its haunting caves and towering chimneys are more than fascinating enough by themselves, but the Dark Church inside is also well worth checking out. If it’s partying you’re after, head to Fat Boy’s Bar & Restaurant, 30 seconds’ walk from the otogar, for a lively game of pool and a few cold glasses of Efes. You’ll find plenty of thirsty locals and travelers alike at this chilled-out hangout. In particular, try Silk Road Restaurant ( Müze Caddesi ) for some traditionally cooked local tastes. A note of caution to Göreme-bound travelers: the recent tourism boom here has taken a serious toll on the region’s ecosystems. Water shortages are common, and trash can be seen all too often on the otherwise majestic lookout points. Please do your best to ensure that your visit not only is amazing for you but also leaves the town just as spectacular for the next people to come along!

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Holiday Cave Hotel

Orta Mah. Masat St. - Göreme +90 384 271 25 55 info@holidaycave.com www.holidaycave.com horse rides or sightseeing tours if you’re feeling adventurous. Also take a gander at the specials advertised on-line as well as in-house- often you’ll be able to score a free Turkish coffee or other treats.

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Don’t forget to ask the staff what’s in season from the garden out back! In fact, the employees at Holiday Cave are a big part of the place’s charm, and a chat with them is just as good a way to spend the afternoon as any. They can also help you to arrange

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Holiday Cave has something for everyone, from jacuzzi-equipped suites to twenty-one clean and simple private rooms to two mixed dorm rooms, all provided with the allimportant air conditioning. Shampoo, soap, towels, slippers, and hair dryers can also be supplied if you find you’ve forgotten yours. Although it’s only a short walk from the otogar, Holiday Cave feels far away from the bustle of Göreme’s main streets; it’s an ideal place to stay if you’re looking for a game of pool in the common room, a leisurely swim, or just a place to relax with a drink from the bar.

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Cappadocia Katpatuka Tour

The Katpatuka partners are a unique blend of 3 native Anatolian men and an Australian woman with tourism and management expertise. They offer exclusive services for the discerning traveller, group tours for those who desire an informal experience, as well as brief tours for time limited ISCOU travellers.

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As Katpatuka is based on Cappadocia, they can offer every possible activity from horseback riding to Balloon tours, from amazing valleys to

Turgut Özal Street, (Bus Station)No:11- Göreme + 90 384 271 27 89 info@katpatukatour.com www.katpatukatour.com hidden churches with different budget option. Although they are specialized about Cappadocia, they have interesting itineraries throughout Turkey including; Pamukkale, Ephesus, Troy, Nemrut and even İstanbul.

Andromeda Tours Orta Mah. Adnan Kahveci Cad. No:12 – Göreme +90 384 271 21 00 info@andromedatour.com www.andromedatour.com select accommodation that best suits you. They do not only book your Turkey tours but also they can provide you with assistance of local suggestions, hotel bookings, flight tickets, car rentals and transfers.

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Andromeda Tour & Travel Service has been operating in the travel business since 2005, as a specialist handling agent in Turkey. They have been awarded by the Turkish Ministry of Tourism and Turkish Travel Agencies Associations recently for their high quality of service, but fortunately high quality doesn’t come with high budgets for them. Andromeda is specialized in Tailor Made Tours, whatever you want from your trip they can use their detailed knowledge to plan your ideal itinerary. The great thing about Tailor Made Tours is that your complete trip is designed around your interests and budget, so you can explore at your own pace and

Cappadocia Muskara Cave Hotel Ideal for adventurers, Muskara Cave Hotel is located just outside Göreme, in direct proximity to a balloon launch area. If you like peace and quiet, this is the place to be rather than the somewhat over-touristed town center. And no need to worry about how to get here, as they offer free shuttle transfers from any bus station in ISCOU Cappadocia, 24 hours a day.

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The spacious, comfortable rooms will be a welcome sight after hours on a cramped bus, but don’t spend too much time there. The terraces are unmissable (a description which can safely be applied to the tasty food served

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 Çavuşin Köyü, Avanos (1 km to Göreme) +90 384 532 72 25 info@muskaracavehotel.com www.muskaracavehotel.com at the terrace restaurant as well!) and there’s a tour desk to make sure you don’t get bored during your stay- they can help you out with trekking routes, cultural nights, and more.

Halil Pension

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Yukarı Mahalle Amaç St. No: 35 Güzelyurt / Aksaray +90 382 451 27 07 fatihsakin58@gmail.com www.halilspension.com

A lot of pensions claim that their guests are treated like close relatives, but Halil’s takes it to another level entirely- the accommodations are located inside the family’s home. Close to the center of the town, it’s incredibly convenient for exploring Güzelyurt, but ISCOU you may find yourself wanting to just hang out in the bright kitchen with the owners instead. You’ll never get sick of their famous restaurant, utilizing vegetables grown in the outdoor garden and lovingly prepared each day- partake in a shared meal with your hosts. The building itself is spotless and bright, more so than you might be expecting from a 140-year old Greek

house. If you’re too full to move after one of the generous meals, consider just sprawling out and taking in the view of the Güzelyurt lake.

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Nemrut

Mount Nemrut Mount Nemrut (Nemrut Dağı in Turkish) is among Turkey’s most iconic and well-known destinations. You may have seen images of the gigantic stone heads scattered across the area on tourist brochures or books concerning ancient civilizations; even if you haven’t, you’re sure to find the site breathtaking and a sure highlight of your trip to Turkey. Built by slaves in the Kingdom of Commagene, the massive statues which now adorn the summit were commissioned by King Antiochus in the first century BC as a grandiose and ultimately narcissistic tribute to... himself. The complex served as a tomb and temple sanctuary, and many of the decapitated heads which lie strewn across the mountain represent Greek gods or the rulers of the kingdom (including, of course, Antiochus). The eastern temple still stands as well, along with an altar made of sandstone and used for ritual sacrifice. Interestingly, the marks on the stone heads, particularly the noses, are seemingly uniform and suggest the destructive work of later iconoclasts. Many people take pains to arrive at the peak of Mount Nemrut at dawn, in order to see the ruins by the light of the rising sun. It’s a truly impressive sight, but going later in the day will spare you the crowds as well as the necessity of waking up well before first light in order to make it to the relatively remote site by daybreak. If you’d prefer to stay overnight, try the Güneş Hotel, close to the summit and relatively cheap. Numerous tours to the mountain are available out of İstanbul or nearer cities such as Malatya; alternately, take a dolmuş or rent your own car. Regardless of how you get there, you’ll need to walk the last half kilometer on your own. Take note: Mount Nemrut can only be visited from March to October due to its high altitude and the heavy snows which fall here in the winters.

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Old Kahta On the way from Nemrut to Adiyanman, stop by a village called Eski Kahta (Old Kahta), before getting to Kahta town. The old village was once the capital of the district; with an amazing but (probably still) under renovation, Kahta Yeni Kale, a castle build by Memlüks as a palace and then converted to a castle by Selçuks. The area is also full of historical brigdes on the way and unexplored ruins.

Cafe Romee Eski Kahta, Kahta, Adıyaman Region. +90212 594 28 02 info@caferomee.com www.caferomee.com Ask for Menengiç Kahvesi, a kind of coffe with milk, done from wild pistache trees , special to the area.

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Although it is not much to do except visiting the castle and old bridges around, in this little village, you can have a break with original Eastern-Turkey village life way far from tourism. This cafe restaurant and small pension all combined inside an old village house and a nice small garden is your only choice, but definetely not a bad one. .With wi-fi and air conditionn in the rooms, basic and cheap, with breakfast included in the price.

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Diyarbakır

Despite not being in the top-list of touristic destinations, this city is extremely interesting from the historical and architectural point of view.Diyarbakır area’s history goes back to the stone age. The remains of the Neolithic settlements are to be found in the Diyarbakir Museum. The city was then occupied by many different civilizations among which the Assyrians, the Seleucids, the Persians, the Romans and of course the Ottomans. The city is still surrounded by the old city walls, which were restored by the Romans. Recently, a very well-kept park has been developed along the walls, allowing a very pleasant walk for the tourists. The four gates which constituted the only entrances to the city are also still intact: Dağkapı, Mardinkapı, Urfakapı, ve Yenikapı. Also the towers are worth to see, particularly Nur Burcu, Yedi Kardeş Burcu and Malikşah Burcu. The İç Kale ( inside castle), which is unfortunately under constant reconstruction, you can still have a great view on the Tigris. If you have only a day, we suggest you at least a visit to Ulu Camii, very central, the Orthodox Syrian Christian Meyrem Ana Kilesi (Church of the Virgin Mary) and the Armenian Surpağab Kilisesi. Not to be missed is also the Mala Dengbeja, very close to Meyrem Ana Kilesi, meeting place of traditional singers-storytellers of the area: sit with them in the patio and you will hear their very peculiar way of singing. If you ask where to have some nice food, everyone will tell you to go to Onur Ocakbaşı (from Gazi Cad. turn on S.Nazif st. No:6), in the historical center of the city. And they are right! Follow the advice of the locals and go and eat a great kebab! Getting to Diyarbakır by land from Istanbul is quite time consuming, while it is more reasonable if you are coming from Ankara or somewhere closer in Turkey. Anyhow there are buses and trains. Pegasus Airlines however offers very affordable prices for flights to and from Diyarbakır, especially if booked in advance.

Diyarbak覺r

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Aslan Otel Newly renovated, simple but clean hotel, well located and with reasonable prices. You can choose between rooms en-suite or with shared toilets. Breakfast is included in the price, wireless connection is available and so are few computers in the dining room. All rooms have TV, Air condition (is a must if you are visiting on summer time) and refrigerator inside.

Kibris Cad. No:23 +90 412 224 70 96 www.diyarbakiraslanotel.com

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Surkent Hotel Surkent Hotel is the cheapest hotel of the city. The atmosphere is comparable to the one of a hostel, with friendly (non-Englishspeaking) receptionists and colorful rooms (slightly ISCOU kitsch). The rooms are very clean, but average, breakfast is not included in the prices.

Dagkap覺, Hz Suleyman Cad. No: 19 +90 412 228 10 14 info@hotelsurkent.com.tr www.hotelsurkent.com.tr

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If you need a guide, ask for Omer, a very helpful guy who is happy to show people around of a reasonable price.

Mahya Kahve Evi Ofis Dilce St. (in front of Saray Market) +90 505 431 94 95 mahyakahvesievi@gmail.com facebook.com/mahyakahveevi ISCOU

In the lively district of Ofis, Mahya Kahve Evi is cozy cafe with more than 10 different kind of coffee, meeting place for travelers, musicians, street artists and locals. The owner of the place is an interesting man who knows the area really well and is very friendly. If Diyarbakir is your first destination in Turkey, or if you are thinking about where to go next, step by the coffee shop and have a chat with Hasan.

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Mardin

With its picturesque old buildings spilling down the hillside on which the city was built, Mardin is a beautiful and often-overlooked stop on the route through southeastern Turkey. Although it used to have a bad reputation as a hotbed of PKK activity, Mardin is slowly gaining back cred as a travel destination, and nowadays is very safe. The view from the hill on the Syrian border it is simply stunning and the whole old town, Eski Mardin, is full of interesting atelier, artisans, home-made wine shops and amazing old buildings. Don’t miss the bazaar or the Kırklar Kilesesi (Forty Martyrs’ Church, ), both in the old city. However, the real attraction of Mardin is the fascinating blend of cultures- Turkish, Kurdish, Assyrian, and Arabwhich can be observed throughout the entire town.

Hasankeyf This magnificent and historical little town, ringed by prehistoric caves and infused with centuries of Seljuk, Kurdish, and Arab history, is reachable by dolmuş from Batman. Its magnificent rock formations and evocative ruins would be worth a visit under any circumstances, but as it is, you should make it Hasankeyf a top priority; there are controversial plans in place to construct a dam nearby which would leave much of the area underwater and destroy countless important sites, as well as displace thousands of inhabitants. The town was added to the World Monuments Fund Watch List in 2008 and there has been a major outcry against the proposed construction, but it may not be enough. Get there while you can!

Mardin Süryani Şarap Evi 1. Cad. No: 230 +904822121870 gabrielcilli@hotmail.com www.suryanisarapcilik.com

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This shop should be your first stop at the beginning of your stay and the last one before leaving. Oktay is an extremely helpful English speaking gold and silver artisan. The shop looks indeed just like all the others, but walk him ask to taste his home made wine! Süryani Wine is a special taste from the region and the tradition is coming from ages even before Christianity.

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Dara Konağı

The mansion bears witness to 800 years of history in the legendary city of Mardin. The building and grounds have been restored with the original structure and spirit in mind, so guests will feel the hospitality and warmth of an ancient Mesopotamia savannah. Stones that were ISCOU handcrafted 800 years ago stand firm against the erosion of time while speaking softly to you of a time long past.

Şehidiye Mah. 39.St. No:13 +90 482 212 32 72 info@darakonagi.com www.darakonagi.com The name of each room represents a civilization that shaped Madin’s history. There are 2 single, 5 double, 1 triple and 2 suite rooms in the mansion. Please note the terrace used for breakfast has a nice view overlooking to the beautiful city and surroundings.

Merlin Konağı Recently opened restaurant-cafe spread on three different floors of an old building, with a wonderful view on Mesopotamia valley. The mansion offers an incredible atmosphere for your night in ISCOU Mardin. Service is perfect and very friendly, but with very poor English.

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Yeni St. 29,No: 3 (Next to Sabanci Museum) +90 482 213 72 02 bilgi@merlinkonagi.com www.merlinkonagi.com

Şahmeran Butik Otel Nice and cozy pension with different kinds of accommodations: dorms, single and private rooms, some of which in the old building (which means very chilly also during summer!). The hotel ISCOU has a lovely patio in the middle, common living room with TV and common kitchen.

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1 Cad. 246 St. No:10 (In front of Erdoba Osmanlı Konağı)

+904822132300 bilgi@sahmeranpansiyon.com www.sahmeranpansiyon.com

Hatay

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Hatay The Hatay, a wedge of Turkey cutting into the northwestern border of Syria, is a bit of a world apart from the rest of the country. The region’s largest town, Antakya, has seen empires come and go but now seems almost more Arab than Turkish; indeed, Syrian Arabic is the mother tongue of the majority of inhabitants, although Turkish is almost universally understood. The influence of the area’s southern neighbor doesn’t end there, and can be seen in everything from the desserts (try künefe) to the ancient Christian ruins dating back to when the city was called Antioch. Check out the teahouses in Büyük Antakya Parkı as well as the classical mosaics found in the Archaeological Museum.

Mozaik Otel If you want something central, look no farther than Mosaik. As you can probably guess from the name, much of the hotel is decorated with interesting patterns on the walls, including some of the large and generouslyfurnished rooms. There’s a jacuzzi and room service, so it’s a great place to relax in the heart of Antakya. Cable TV, a mini-bar, and wi-fi are all available as well.

İstiklal Cad. No:18 Antakya +90 326 215 50 20 reservasyon@mozaikotel.com www.mozaikotel.com

Hotel Saray A slightly cheaper but still worthwhile option is the Hotel Saray (meaning “palace” in Turkish). It’s nice and clean with fans available for you to cool off in the summer, although there’s no air conditioning. It’s a little rough around the edges but nothing

Hürriyet Cad. No:3 - Antakya +90 326 214 90 01 that adventurous travelers won’t enjoy. Saray is definitely good value for the price- many of the rooms have balconies with nice views, as well as TVs.

Onward to Syria! At the moment, we suggest you to avoid getting close to the Syrian border, due to the ongoing unrest in the country. We hope that for the next edition the situation will be better and we will be able to offer you a different advice.

Van

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Van

Van & Around Located on the eastern shore of Lake Van, the largest lake in Turkey, Van is a small city steeped in history. Archaeological finds dating back to 5000 BC have been encountered here, although the city proper is presumed to have been an important capital of the Urartian Kingdom starting in the 9th century BC. Van is famous for its white cats with one green eye and one blue, who- unusually- enjoy swimming. Check out Tuşba, Van’s old city. The spectacular palace complex of the Urartian Kingdom still stands, and visitors will find numerous points of interest- the double hamam is particularly cool. Van Castle, unsurprisingly, is the focal point of Tuşba, and includes burial chambers and temple foundations. Take a look at the inscriptions which can be found all around the complex. Akdamar Church (also known as the Church of the Holy Cross) is also well worth a visit. The interior of the church is famous for its beautiful carvings depicting a range of Biblical scenes, as well as the impressive animal-adorned border running all the way around the building. Along with its bizarre cats and its incredible setting, there’s another big thing Van is justly famous for: its breakfasts. Breakfast halls are still are tradition here, where people gather for the most important meal of the day and choose from a huge spread of dishes to get them going in the morning. Sütçü Fevzi Kahvaltı Salonu (Kahvaltıcilar St. No:9) is one of the local favorites, popular with both travelers and the city’s inhabitants themselves. The elegant yet simple Aşiyan Ev Yemekleri (Kazım Karabekir Cad.) boasts hands down some of the best food you’ll find in Van, about any kind of traditional Turkish food you can name here- and, more than likely, a huge selection of ones you can’t! Don’t miss the pilav, mantı, and karnıyarık- all home-cooked in the local style, as with everything on the menu here. But Aşiyan is most well-known for its succulent desserts. Try some old favorites like baklava, or get a little more adventurous and try the kayısı tatlısı (an apricot-based sweet dish).

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Getting to Van Located in the far eastern reaches of Turkey, Van is a long way away from İstanbul. Buses and trains do run there relatively frequently, but you’re in for a grueling journey (roughly 24 to 28 hours from İstanbul by bus, or 20 hours from Ankara). The bus station is a few kilometers outside of town; free shuttles run into central Van, but remember to allow some extra time for this if you have a schedule to keep. You can take a train from Haydarpaşa in İstanbul to Tatvan, across Lake Van, on Mondays and Fridays. The trip takes 40 hours. From there, get on the four-hour ferry to cross the lake. If you want to save some time, catch a plane to Van Airport from any of the major western cities. It’s a few kilometers outside of town, so you’ll need to either hire a taxi or walk to the main road and get a dolmuş.

Akdamar Camping & Restaurant

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In business for over 25 years, Akdamar Akdamar Adası Karşısı, Restaurant is undoubtedly a top choice for Gevaş sampling eastern Turkish cuisine. Situated +90 432 214 34 79 right on the edge of Lake Van, you can dine ibrahimakdamar@hotmail.com in style with a view of the water, www.akdamarrestaurant.net O C U S watching the ships crossing to the I and pay the same price (nothing!) for a harbor. Sit on the outside terrace hot shower at the end of the day. Weary for the best atmosphere- there travelers will feel right at home here, and are shade canopies to shield you the friendly owner will do everything in his from the sun, and the bright colors power to keep you feeling that way. and plentiful greenery will make you feel relaxed and welcome. Choose from a variety of traditional or more international dishes; the house specialties include a delicious pilav and the famous Van breakfast spread.

There’s more to Akdamar than the food, though: you can pitch your tent for free here,

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Van Grand Deniz Turizm

To truly experience the vastness and calm of Turkey’s largest lake, embark on a boat tour to one of its many islands. Grand Deniz Turizm can organize trips to a number of islands including Ahtamara and Çarpanak, where you will experience the laid-back pace of life in ISCOU the eastern region and the soothing harmony of nature, where the green shore meets the blue of the water.

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 Next to Selçuklu Cemetery +90 432 612 40 38 granddeniz@gmail.com www.granddeniz.com

Grand Deniz also has a traditional restaurant serving three meals a day, but most especially the Van breakfast which the area is famous for. If you fancy a lakefront picnic, their location is unbeatable- take your food right down to the waterside!

Mavi Tuana Otel Mavi Tuana has single, double and triple en-suited rooms with TV, AC and wireless. An abundant breakfast is included in ISCOU the price, quite safe and clean, although seems like a big hotel; prices are reasonable.

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Zübeyde Hanım Cad. No:26 +90 432 215 00 05 bilgi@mavituanahotel.com www.mavituanahotel.com

Otel Side Hotel Side is a simple hotel, with 24-hour front desk service. As in this area you will struggle to find budget hotels, it is a good value one. The rooms of Side Hotel include a flat-screen ISCOU TV with satellite channels, heating and a minibar. Each room has a private bathroom

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Sıhke Cad. No:5 +90 432 216 62 65 harun6580@hotmail.com www.otelside.com with a hairdryer. Check out the view from the terrace while making your breakfast(included in the price).

Doğubeyazıt

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The history of Doğubeyazıt/Doğubayazıt goes back to more than 2700 years ago, when it was part of the Kingdom of Urartu. It was lately conquered by Persians, Romans, Arabs, and Byzantines, before then becoming part of the Ottoman Empire in 1514. It then went through the Turko-Persian war, the Russian-Turkish War and the First World War. The town, surrounded by the highest mountain in Turkey, is located around 15 km southwest of Mount Ararat, 93 km east of the city of Ağrı and 35 km from the Iranian border. It is an ideal location for an alternative view on Turkey and to visit around some interesting not well-known attractions: go and see the beautiful Ishak Pasha Palace, climb Mount Ararat and wander around some interesting ruins on Giriktepe Hill. The impressive İshak Paşa Sarayı is a relatively modern palace built in the seventeenth century by the reigning Ottoman Empire. Famous for its Ottoman art and its stunning location on a valley slope (5 kms outside of Doğubeyazıt), the palace is actually an entire complex rather than a single building. Be on the lookout for Quranic inscriptions praising the pashas.

Murat Camping Murat camping is located on the way to İshak Paşa Palaceand there you will find a welcoming campground, 10 rooms and a nice restaurantwith an amazing view. The friendly staff also organizes tours around Doğu Beyazıt. Ask for tour options and culture tours and climbing to the Mt. Ararat (foreigners need a permission ISCOU from Turkish government. Contact them they manage to take it in one or two days. )

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Next to Ishak Paşa Palace +905424373699 mt.arat@hotmail.com www.muratcamping.com Their tours contains airport transfer from 5 airports around 5 different cities. Climbing package includes accommodation, food, tour guide and permission. Otherwise you can go also for the only guide-permission option to make it cheaper! Check out araratexpeditions. com for further information.

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Safranbolu

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Located in the Western Black Sea region, Safranbolu is a charming little town retaining much of its Ottoman character from previous centuries. In fact, it’s known for being perhaps the most “Ottoman” city in all of Turkey; due to its historical architecture, Safranbolu has been named to the UNESCO World Heritage List. Particularly interesting to history enthusiasts is the Kaymakamlar Evi, which features separate courtyards with windows from the harem quarters as well as the men’s rooms (known as selamlık). If you want to catch a view of the entire old town from a height, make your way to Hıdırlık Tepesi. Cooks and eager shoppers should keep an eye out for saffron, the spice for which Safronbolu was named. Alternately, sample some in the local cooking at Taşev (Hıdırlık Yokuşu 14), also featuring a gallery and an impressive collection of wines. Safranbolu is roughly six hours outside of İstanbul by bus and makes a fantastic waypoint for travelers heading east to Samsun, Trabzon, or Georgia. Most intercity buses will drop you in the modern town; to reach the much more picturesque old town (Eski Safranbolu), hop on a dolmuş. Numerous great daytrips are possible- hop on a dolmuş and get exploring! In particular, check out the old towns of Hadranoupolis (Eskipazar) and about 10 km away. Also reachable from Safranbolu at a distance of 8 km is the country’s fourth largest cave, known as Bulak Cavern (Mencilis Mağarası in Turkish).

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Safranbolu

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Efe Backpackers Pension & Guesthouse Efe Guesthouse was recently remodeled in 2006, but the original look and feel of the 180-year old building lingers on, giving guests the illusion of stepping back in time. With reasonable prices and ISCOU a friendly smile waiting for anyone who walks through the front door, Efe’s is a great choice tucked away in one of Safranbolu’s charming streets. The owners and staff are genuinely eager to please and will happily give you service with a smile if you have any questions to ask of them. To the same end, Efe’s provides a transfer from the bus station so you don’t

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Cinci Han Hotel For a bit of a splash-out upscale option, you can’t do better than the Cinci Han. The architecture is one of the big draws of the place, and you won’t be disappointed- it’s hard not to be awed by the solid stone rooms dating back to the 17th century and once used as a Silk Road stopover. The staff is similarly excellent and most have a professional background in tourism and hospitality education, so you know the service will be superlative. Choose from 22 standard rooms or one of two suites. If you’re eager to check out the historical building but aren’t feeling like being a big spender, a cheaper alternative is to simply sit

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Çavuş Mah. Kayadibi St. 8 +90 370 725 26 88 info@backpackerspension.com www.backpackerspension.com have to lug your bags around searching for a sign. There are eight rooms with a total 30-person capacity; dorms as well as singles and doubles are available. There is a lounge and a kitchen for common use, along with an incredible terrace with some of the best views you’ve probably ever seen in a hotel!

 Eski Çarsi Çesme Cinci Han +90 370 712 06 90 info@cincihan.com www.cincihan.com down for a meal in the attached restaurant. It’s constructed in the area where weary travelers would once leave their pack animals, but you wouldn’t guess that today. It’s clean and welcoming, a great place to cast off your own burden and sip a cup of tea. If you’re in a hurry, though, you can tour the building for an admission fee of 1 TL.

Black Sea

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Amasra Just two hours from Safranbolu by bus, the sleepy coastal town of Amasra is a historical goldmine minus the crowds you’re likely to find in the Black Sea region’s larger cities. With quiet beaches, two islands for exploration, and a history stretching back to ancient times, Amasra will keep nature-lovers and architecture buffs alike enthralled. The impressive Amasra Castle dates back to Roman rule and owes its eclectic appearance to numerous additions and improvements by various occupiers throughout history. Take some time to visit the Church Mosque as well, which, as the name suggests, has been used for both Christian and Muslim worship in the past. To reach Amasra, you can take a bus from Bartın, the most convenient local hub 10 kilometers to the south. From there, it’s an easy connection to Safranbolu. The roads are somewhat run-down in this region, but look at it in a positive light- you might just have the place all to yourself.

Samsun Featuring prominently in the 20th century history of the Turkish Republic as well as being an important sea port throughout the years, Samsun is nevertheless short on areas of touristic interest. The main exceptions are the two museums in town. The first of these is the Archaeological Museum, displaying an impressive mosaic salvaged from the old settlement of Karasamsun, while the second, the Gazi Museum, is dedicated to Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of the modern republic. Heading east from Samsun, take a drive along the scenic Yason Burnu (Cape Jason), so named for the famous Argonaut. An ancient temple dedicated to the hero is said to have once stood here; now, it has been replaced by a quaint church, well worth a visit.

Trabzon Founded by the Greeks in the eighth century BC, Trabzon has a long and rich history spanning numerous civilizations and accumulating, over the centuries, wide and varied influences. Trabzon even boasts an ex-church museum called, familiarly, the Hagia Sophia (or Aya Sofya). For reasonably-priced accommodation, stay at the Anıl Otel (İskenderpaşa Mah; 0462 326 72 82) or T.S Park Otel (Atatürk Alanı Meydan Cad. 5). For spectacular views, you take take a dolmuş up to the pleasant district of Boztepe, situated on a hill. There are plans to construct a high-end hotel at the top, but for now, you can enjoy lunch at the hilltop restaurant while checking out the view. A second must-do excursion from Trabzon is Uzungöl, 45 km outside the town of Çaykara. The beautiful scenery is best viewed from a mountain bike, which you can hire at one of the many shops and teahouses on its edges. Trabzon is well-connected on public transportation routes and thus is relatively easy to reach. The bus station is served by minibuses, and is closer to town than the airport (about three kilometers).

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Trabzon

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Sümela / Trabzon Take a taxi or catch a tour to Sümela Monastery, roughly 48 km southeast of the city. Built in Byzantine times after the Greek monk Barnabas discovered a holy icon here, it hugs the cliffside in a remarkable feat of engineering. The monastery is currently undergoing restorations, but fortunately, they don’t interfere with visitation and Sümela remains a heavily trafficked pilgrimage site. Although you may notice some of the wear and tear which prompted the Turkish government’s restoration plans (most prominently on the frescoes), much of the building is intact and in relatively good shape. Check out the aqueduct at the entrance and the Rock Church, as well as the numerous small monastic cells and assorted chambers lining the passageways. If you’re planning a visit to Sümela, chances are you’ll find yourself in the nearby town of Maçka at some point during your excursion. Aside from the breathtaking natural scenery (think: more cliffs of the Sümela variety), there’s not terribly much to do or see here, but it does make a refreshing and uncrowded stop.

Kayadibi Saklıbahçe Restaurant Hands down one of the best-kept secrets of the area, don’t miss the hidden Kayadibi Saklıbahçe Restaurant. You can find it on your way to Sümela Monastery, just before entering Maçka- it’s located immediately after a tunnel. ISCOU

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Tünel Çıkışı, Maçka +90 462 512 23 18 info@kayadibisaklibahce.com www.kayadibisaklibahce.com

The location couldn’t be better, and you’ll definitely enjoy the peaceful garden and pleasant views. But of course you’re really coming for the food! Most of the menu here is local fare served in generous portions.

You’ll recognize the traditional Turkish dishes you’ve probably eaten elsewhere such as grilled meat plates and pilav, but you’ll also find specialty regional foods. Try the stuffed grape leaves and the local black cabbage soup.

Rize

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Rize The mid-sized city of Rize is the last semi-major city on Turkey’s west-to-east Black Sea coastal route toward Georgia. Somewhat lacking in tourist attractions but definitely not in charm, Rize offers a museum (on Ulubatlı St.) displaying traditional costumes in an old Ottoman building, as well as a Genoese castle overlooking the town. Snack like a king at the conveniently-located cafe in the castle,, and take in the views of the city afforded by the place’s prime location. Rize is a great place to learn about the history of the local Laz people as well- the museum will get you started. Rize’s fame, however, comes from its prominence in Turkey’s tea industry; east of Trabzon, the climate is ideal for its production. You can see the tea bushes growing all over the area at low altitudes as you enter the city. Once inside, shop around for local varieties to take home or have a wander through the tea garden known as Ziraat, where you can enjoy a cup of çay when you visit. Not only for tea, the gardens have a variety of pretty plants. Connoisseurs of fine food and drink would do well to make the 10-kilometer trip outside Rize to Çayeli, where you’ll find one of Turkey’s three Hüsrev Restaurants (Çayeli Çıkışı Hopa İstikameti). All sorts of local food is available, but be sure to try one of their famous bean dishes in particular. The Maçahel Valley is truly one of Turkey’s untouched gems- so much so that international visitors require a special permit to access the 23 villages scattered along the Machakhlistskali River. The area was under Georgian control until it fell to the Ottoman empire in 1479; even today, however, the way of life in the valley’s tiny settlements seems to consist of an alluring mix of Turkish and Georgian tradition. The village life isn’t the only attraction here, though, and you’re sure to keep busy with trekking and snapping photographs of the incredible views all around you. To organize a tourism permit, contact Kenan Kahya at +90 532 652 41 96. Kenan also manages a highly-recommended pension in the valley called Bunbulay Pansiyon and is generous about sharing his extensive knowledge of the area.

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Kaçkar Mountains

Kaçkar Mountains Rize makes an excellent jumping-off point to visit the spectacular Kaçkar Mountains. Part of northern Turkey’s Pontic range, the area has been a national park since 1994 and features some of the most unspoiled and rugged terrain anywhere in the country. Nature-lovers will be in paradise; endless trekking opportunities are available, taking you past waterfalls and lush mountains pastures known as yaylalar. You can even summit Mount Kaçkar, the fourthhighest peak in Turkey. One of the most important and heavily-trafficked (relatively speaking, of course!) access points to the Kaçkar region is the little town of Çamlıhemşin. Famous for its lush forests and rolling hills, Çamlıhemşin is worth a visit year round, although you may want to make a special effort to visit if you happen to be in the area in the autumn; the foliage is impressive.

Ekodanitap Ekodanitap is, quite simply, unmissable. The setting is straight out of some rustic fairy tale, encompassing rivers and mountains and deep forests, all conspiring to bring you back into contact with nature. The owner, a transplant ISCOU from big-city Istanbul, makes his dedication to environmentalism and sustainable living apparent from the get-go (the hotel’s name is a play on the word Kodanitap, meaning “flat place” in Armenian), and that positive, natural attitude is what you’ll find here in abundance.

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Aşağı Çamlıca Yolu Sapağı 1km. Çamlıhemşin +90 464 651 77 87 info@turkutour.com www.ekodanitap.com

Ekodanitap has just about everything you could ask for in such a remote location. The manager is also a local guide who knows all there is to know and more about the region; should you get a hankering to go exploring, he can take you on a tour of the mountains.

The views are amazing, of course, and the food is organic (breakfast and dinner are included). The range of homegrown products is incredible- try their wine, liquors, tea, and fruit. If you find that you just can’t tear yourself away, Ekodanitap is often looking for volunteers to help out around the place. Luckily but perhaps surprisingly given the remote location, the lodge is open all year round. Find it just before Çamlıhemşin on the right; you’ll have to walk for about ten minutes, but it’s signposted.

Kaçkar Mountains

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Ayder / Kaçkar Mountains The countryside around Rize and the Kaçkars is ripe for exploring and riddled with tiny villages living a lifestyle which seems centuries removed. The little mountain town of Ayder is one of these hidden gems. To see its natural thermal springs for yourself, just hop a dolmuş from the town of Pazar, which is in turn accessible by minibus from Rize. Nature lovers will be in ecstasy at this summer paradise, surrounded by waterfalls, lakes and mountain pastures; culture enthusiasts should keep an eye out for the bagpipes which are commonly played in the region.

Natura Lodge Hikers intent on getting an early start in the Kaçkars may want to stay in one of the trailhead villages for a night before setting out. The clean Natura Lodge fills the need perfectly, with 21 rooms and offering great scenery with a rustic feel. They can set up a variety of Kaçkar tours for you, designed ISCOU to cover all of the region’s most majestic highlights while under the supervision of a trained guide.

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Open year round, Natura Lodge (as the name suggests!) is committed to keeping things green. Everything about the place feels clean

Ayder Yaylası Turizm Merkezi +90 464 657 20 35 ayder@naturaotel.com www.naturaotel.com and unspoiled, from the tasteful wooden building to the fresh meals prepared in the lodge restaurant. A selection of tours and activities can be arranged, including rafting and swimming, and you’re sure not to go wanting for things to keep you busy outdoors in this spectacular natural paradise.

Liligum Mountain House Fresh strawberries. Fields of wildflowers. A peaceful haven, ringed by waterfalls, just steps from the boundless wilderness of the Kaçkars. Sound good? Then Liligum is the place for you. This family-run place ISCOU is all about the little touches which make you feel at homenewly-cut flowers adorning your room, homegrown vegetables in the delicious local-styled cooking, evening teatime together while you admire the view.

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Aşağı Ambarlık Mevkii +90 464 657 21 23 liligumpansiyon@gmail.com www.ayderliligum.com The wood-furnished rooms are equipped with ensuite bathrooms and hot water is a guarantee 24 hours a day. Just one note of caution: Liligum is only open in the summertime, so check availability if you’re planning a trip for one of the shoulder seasons.

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Georgia

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Getting to Georgia If you want to hop over to Georgia for a bit or continue your adventures in the neighboring country, Rize makes a good starting point. You can catch a bus to Batumi (five hours) or the capital city of Tblisi (eleven hours) from the otogar about a kilometer to the west of town; generally five or six buses cross the border daily. From Rize, the journey will take you to Sarp, a border town which has become the primary crossing point between Turkey and Georgia since the end of the Cold War. The last stop before the border is Hopa, from which point you can easily walk across into Georgia. Taxis are plentiful and cheap, as they are throughout Georgia; the trip to Batumi is around 25 kilometers and should run you 20-25 lari (roughly 20 TL). Most taxi drivers speak good Turkish. Make sure you have the proper visas and documents; citizens of Australia and New Zealand currently require visas (although EU and US citizens do not).

Culture and History Although Georgia, like Turkey, stands at a geographical crossroads between east and west, its culture and history are very much its own. Centuries of invasion and occupation have left their marks on the Georgian landscape, but the Georgian people, unrelated to either the Turks or the Russians, are absolutely unique. Georgia has been a predominantly Christian nation since roughly the fourth century AD and boasts hundreds of ancient churches and monasteries scattered throughout its picturesque mountain ranges and mirrored lakes. The Georgian people, who value friendship above all else, are known for being open and hospitable. The warm spirit of the locals is just one of the many reasons to visit this small and beautiful country.

Food The importance of both food and drink to Georgian culture is best observed during a feast, or supra, when a huge assortment of dishes is prepared, always accompanied by large amounts of wine, and dinner can last for hours. In a Georgian feast, the role of the tamada (toastmaster) is an important and honored position. Georgian dishes draw inspiration from the cuisines of its geographical neighbors. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll find many local foods which closely mirror popular Turkish meals as well as some, such as shashlik (shish kebabs), which are common in central Asia. Among the vast variety of delicious dishes to try are tkemali, a plum sauce, and kharcho, a traditional soup made with beef and rice.

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GEORGIA

Batumi

Georgia’s prime coast is right here- look no further. Located on the Black Sea, Batumi is a thriving party city where travelers, businessmen, locals, and students of all nationalities come to unwind and let down their hair on the pebbly beaches and in the crowded nightclubs. It’s a popular destination for vacationing Turks, with its convenient location just a few hours from the border, and makes a great first stop for anyone heading east from Rize. Partiers will find endless entertainment in Batumi, from the countless bars and clubs to the Turkish casinos which have sprung up here due to the illegality of gambling back across the border. Eredeli’s Bar (Baratashvilit Street 1) is one fun venue with frequent live shows. Due to the tourism boom in the area, there is no shortage of accommodation options; Sky Hostel (Inasadridze Street 16/59) and Globus Hostel (Mazniashvili Street 54) are both good choices, or read on for more detailed recommendations! Petri Rashi (or White Horse, located at Gorgiladze Street 2) is a great stop for those with rumbling stomachs, serving big portions of delicious local food. Getting to and from Batumi is generally a hassle-free undertaking. An airport services the city from 2 kilometers south, and numerous buses run to various locations daily, including Trabzon in Turkey and the Georgian capital of Tbilisi, 6 hours distant. If you prefer the freedom of driving your own vehicle, Acara Rent A Car, with an office at the airport, is recommended.

Vinyl Bar Vinyl is Batumi’s original alternative cafe. Despite its name, the ownership of Vinyl Bar emphasizes that this is not a place to come looking for fancy cocktails, but rather a welcoming gathering place for friends and artists, a place for conversation and relaxation. With the focus squarely on mingling and chilling out, you know you’ll receive a warm welcome here.

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chacha

Dumbadze Street 12/14 (on Europe Square) +995 93 33 14 99 levanikhujadze@gmail.com Food is served along with drinks- definitely try the sandwiches, which are locally famous with Georgians and expats alike. You’ll often find live shows on the terrace in the summer, making Vinyl the place to sit back and meet new friends after a long day of

Batumi

GEORGIA

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Batumi Hostel

A new hostel with a recently changed address, Batumi Hostel is a chilled out place run by a young couple. It’s located in the middle of the Old Town and has the distinct advantage of being close to... well, just about everything, so you won’t have to worry about arranging local transport when you wake up groggy from a night out on the town. ISCOU

The hostel (constructed in an old house) has two dorms and two private rooms, all at prices which are quite reasonable by local standards. Although the place is only open in summertime, you’ll find that it’s rarely packed to the gills like some of the wilder hostels in town. Come expecting to relax, not necessarily to continue the party after you get home. To that end, there are

Gen. Mazhiashvili 13, Old Batumi +995 555 50 77 05 batumihostel@hotmail.com great balconies throughout the building and strong showers with nice hot water to rinse off the traveling grime. Sit back afterwards in one of the comfortable leather couches in the common room, or check out the quirky decorations. Laundry service is available, wi-fi is free, and you’ll love the common kitchen if you’re the type who likes to save money by hitting up the grocery stores. Take cash when you check in, though, as credit cards are not accepted.

Gulnasi’s Guesthouse Gulnasi’s Guesthouse is a very cool little place which is seasonal for the most interesting reason we’ve yet come across- in the winter, it functions as a schoolhouse! You can stay here during the local kids’ vacation, which runs roughly from mid-June to ISCOU mid-September. The hostel is run by a Georgian family (with English-speaking children), so you can be sure of getting a warm welcome.

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Lermatov Street 24A +995 599 79 72 24 homestay@mail.ru facebook.com/pages/Gulnasis-Guesthouse

There are 20 rooms with shared bathrooms and a common kitchen. The building is wheelchair accessible and airport transfers, as well as tours, can be arranged. Last but definitely not least, tea and coffee are free all day!

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GEORGIA

Tbilisi

Tbilisi Georgia’s capital and largest city, Tbilisi is located in the country’s eastcentral region, nestled in the low hills around the Trialeti mountains. The city’s name comes from the word for “warm” (tbili), a toponym referring to its mythical origins. According to legend, Tbilisi was founded by a fifthcentury king who chose the site after he came across a magical hot spring while pheasant-hunting. Tbilisi is packed with things to do. Museum enthusiasts are spoiled for choice here; choose from the Numismatic Museum (showcasing old coins, and located at G. Leonidze 3/5), the Museum of Art (L. Gudiashvili 1), the Puppet Museum (Shavteli 17A), the Janashia Museum with its spectacular archaeological collections (Rustaveli Av. 3), and many others. Architecture buffs will love a wander through the well-preserved Old Town or a visit to any of the dozens of old churches and mosques hidden in Tbilisi’s alleyways, while hikers will appreciate the picturesque lakes just outside of town and the steep walk up to Narikala Fortress, which offers incredible panoramic views. The sulfur baths, Georgia’s answer to Turkey’s invigorating hamams, are also well worth the experience, although you may not be able to get service in English. Head to the district of Abanotubani if you’re interested. If it all seems a bit overwhelming, check out the terrific Explore Outdoor (Machabeli St. 7), which offers free city tours. Tbilisi is a shopper’s paradise, with open-air bazaars and curious little shops seemingly everywhere you look. The Saturday market near the river (also known as the Dry Bridge Market) has everything under the sun and you can often snag fascinating curios for dirt-cheap prices. The slightly more mundane daily marketplace near Didube has an equally broad but more everyday selection of goods. Food and accommodation are rarely an issue in Tbilisi. A range of popular establishments are available in both categories, such as the central and ever-thriving Boombully Rooms & Hostel (Rustaveli Avenue 24) and the chain restaurant 24/24 (Leselidze Street 26). As central as it is, Tbilisi has the added advantage of being extremely easy to reach and depart from. Buses run constantly to and from the rest of Georgia and beyond, and the international airport 17 km southeast of town is reachable by bus or taxi.

Tbilisi

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GEORGIA

Nest Hostel

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Nest Hostel is a colorful and incredibly wellequipped hangout slash home-away-fromhome where you can find all kinds of fun characters night and day. The place was opened after Tbilisi bar owners noticed the endless streams of foreign travelers trading stories in their watering hole; nowadays, they divide their time between hostel management and running the aﬃliated bar, Nest Bar (or BUDE Bar). They’ve worked hard to make Nest ISCOU Hostel a place where hardcore partiers and their more chilled out compatriots alike can have a great time. The foremost policy is “do not disturb,” meaning that everyone is encouraged

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Iashvili Street 23, Tbilisi +995 598 16 17 71 nesthosteltbilisi@gmail.com

to do their own thing so long as they don’t infringe on anyone else’s fun! All those amenities we mentioned? Free coffee and tea all day, space for storing your luggage, free maps, free towels, free book exchange, a common kitchen, a computer available for guest use, all kinds of local tips and information, and of course, a smile every time you walk in the door. Both dorms and privates are available.

Tbilisi Hostel

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Located in a two-storey house with a balcony and a garden shaded with vines, Tbilisi Hostel has great views of the ancient fortress and mountains above the city. Relax in the hammocks and bean-bags during the day or party in the garden at night ISCOU with plenty of Georgian-style drinking, or plan out your next day of sightseeing with help from the multilingual owner, Rauf. It’s located in an authentic traditional neighbourhood, two minutes’ walk from a farmer’s market, bakeries and supermarkets and just ten minutes walk from the Old Town.

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Avlabari, Makhati Shesakhvevi 22, Tbilisi +995 322 74 76 68 tbilisi.hostel@gmail.com www.tbilisihostel.com Great for partying, Tbilisi Hostel has a great common garden, a common kitchen, and a barbecue. There’s nowhere better to be in the summertime! With a 30-person capacity, most of the beds here are dorm-style. If you want the one private room, make sure to book ahead in summer.

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GEORGIA

Tbilisi

Canudos Ethnic Bar Canudos Ethnic Bar is more than just a place to get your drink on, it’s a meeting place and crossroads for all kinds of artistic, political, and funloving people from all over the earth. There’s a very chilled out, live and let live vibe which you will definitely appreciate after a long day of international exploration.

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Named after an ancient city in Brazil which, according to legend, was home to only the pure-hearted, Canudos is effortlessly intriguing. The walls are covered with odds and ends from all corners of the globe, esoterica ranging COUNT 1 free from concert tickets, calling shot cards, and paper money to photographs, boarding passes, and everything else you can imagine. The artsy feel is carried over into the rest of the bar’s decorations, which range from quirky to fascinating- Buddha

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Javakhishvili St, Samaia Garden, Tbilisi +995 591 91 13 11 canudosbar@gmail.com www.facebook.com/canudos statues, prayer flags, and rare musical instruments are only the beginning. The alcohol is cheap and plentiful, so bring your friends and grab a seat. You’ll feel the travel stories start flowing out of you. Don’t forget to the check the schedule of events before you head over, because Canudos is constantly hosting some fantastic parties like the Naked Party, the Irish Party, the Valentine’s Day Beer Pong Tournament, and tons more.

Cafe Gallery A quiet happy hour followed by an increasing volume level throughout the evening, culminating in a crazy party when the sun goes down. Sound good? Then you’re in the right place. With all kinds of music, great DJs, and a clientele composed of artists and musicians, Cafe Gallery is a tiptop place to hang out with a beer in your hand or get a bit wild. Friday and Saturday, as you might imagine, are the big nights here. See what’s on tap!

48 Rustaveli Ave. / 34 Griboedov Str. Tbilisi +995 322 99 57 47 www.cafe-gallery.info-tbilisi.com The garden is great and there’s a gallery, as the name suggests, which sometimes hosts cool exhibitions.

Borjomi

GEORGIA

155

The town of Borjomi, which has existed in its modern incarnation since the early 19th century, is located in south-central Georgia. It has enjoyed increasing popularity in recent decades as a result of its natural mineral water, which is commonly believed to contain healing properties. The water, which is salty and volcanic, has its source in the spring in Borjomi Gorge. If you’re feeling a bit under the weather, you can test its curative powers yourself with a dip in the natural hot pool 2 km down the river. For more particular directions (as well as any other assistance you might require), ask Artur at the fantastic tourism information center on the town’s main street (+995 599 30 25 13). Most of Borjomi’s attractions are in some way related to the springs. The largest ecological theme park in the Caucasus is here, as well as a terrific national park called Borjomi Kharagauli. You can get a day pass for free at the head office, located a bit west of the town center on Meskheti Street. Borjomi’s more diminutive size makes accommodation a bit harder to come by than in metropolises like Tbilisi. Still, you shouldn’t have too much trouble finding somewhere to drop your bags. Try the seasonal Borjomi Hostel (Kostava Street 17) if you’re around in the summer, or if a homestay is more your style, give Marina a call at +995 367 22 01 70. Restaurants can be found all over, and even the train station has delicious eats. Buses and minibuses can get you in and out of Borjomi. Services run every hour from Tbilisi and cost 8 lari. If you’re coming from Batumi, take the morning bus costing 17 lari.

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Turkish Language Courses

If you’re planning on staying in the country for a while, a Turkish course is a great investment. Learn how to chat with the locals! Turkish isn’t closely related to Romance or Germanic languages, so you won’t get a lot of freebies unless you speak Persian or Arabic, and the structure might seem strange to you at first. Fortunately, Turkish is very logical and you don’t have to learn a new alphabet. If you have a few weeks to spare in İstanbul, check out the best-of-the-best language schools listed below and take some lessons which will have you reading and speaking conversational Turkish in no time!

TURKÇE ATOLYESİ Asmaltı Mescit Cad. No: 3, 4th floor, Beyoğlu +90 212 251 35 34 info@turkceatolyesi.com www.turkceatolyesi.com 2pm is usually open day for the new students. Drop them an email or show up 15 min before if you feel like giving ISCOU it a try!

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Classes of maximum 8-10 people this small school offers a very good alternative to the classical language schools, for a more familylike learning experience. Equipped with the latest technology and combined with the flexible schedule and in-house made studying material, their method is much more conversational-oriented compares to the usual grammar-approach. When you go visit them, accept the tea and sit on their spacious terrace with view on Sultanahmet! On Saturday at

DİLMER Language Teaching Center DİLMER is arguably the most famous of the İstanbul-based language schools and offers both four-week (intensive) and eight-week courses for a wide variety of levels.

TÖMER Associated with Ankara University, TÖMER gives Turkish courses which generally last three weeks. They have branches across the countrynot just in İstanbul- so you can learn some Turkish no matter where you end up.

İnönü Cad. Prof. Tarık Zafer Tunaya St. No: 16 +90 212 292 96 96 dilmer@dilmer.com www.dilmer.com

Katıp Çelebi Mah. Tel St. No: 47 (Taksim) +90 212 249 16 48-49 istanbul@tomer.ankara.edu.tr www.tomer.ankara.edu.tr

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Turkish is not an Indo-European language, therefore it does not share that much of vocabulary with European languages. However, there are many French words that were adopted in the last century and in most of the touristic places people will understand basic English. Turkish people are very proud and they love their language. Any effort to express yourself with it will be more than appreciated and might also be rewarded with further discount or special treatment!

Pronunciation Pronunciation in Turkish language is fairly simple, since most of the time, the words are pronounced just like they are written. Although, the language does contain some letters that are special to it. Here are the examples:: C/c: Like J in “Jar” I/ı: Like e in “Oven” Ö/ö: Like the u in “lurch” Ü/ü: Like the ew in “mew”

Ç/ç: Like Ch in “Church” J/j: Like the g in “Huge” Ş/S: Like the sh in “short” Ğ/ğ: This letter has no sound of it’s own, but prolongs the preceding vowel

Basics Hello: Merhaba/Selam Goodbye (See you): Görüşürüz Take care: Kendine iyi bak Good morning: Günaydın Good afternoon/Good day: İyi günler Good evening: İyi akşamlar Good night: İyi geceler Yes/No: Evet/Hayır Please: Lütfen Thank you/Thanks: Teşekkür ederim/Teşekkürler You’re welcome: Bir şey değil/Rica ederim Excuse me: Afedersiniz/Pardon Good/Bad: İyi/Kötü There is/There isn’t: Var/Yok Do you speak English?: İngilizce konuşuyor musunuz? How much is it?: Ne kadar?/Kaç para? What is your name?: Adınız ne?/İsminiz ne? My name is ______: (Benim) adım________/(Benim) ismim ________ Nice to meet you: Memnun oldum Nice to meet you too: Ben de memnun oldum

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Dictionary

Getting Around What time does the next _______ leave/arrive?: Sonraki _______ ne zaman kalkıyor/varıyor? Ferry: Vapur Bus: Otobüs Shared taxi: Dolmuş One-way/With return: Tek yön/Gidiş-dönüş Ticket: Bilet Bus station: Otogar Taxi stop: Taksi durağı Where is _____?: _____ nerede? Near/Far: Yakın/Uzak Can you forward this money?: Şu parayı öne uzatabilir misiniz? May I get off?: İnebilir miyim? Can you drop me off at the suitable spot?: Müsait bir yerde bırakabilir misiniz? 1, 2, 3, 4, 5: Bir, iki, üç, dört, beş 6, 7, 8, 9, 10: Altı, yedi, sekiz, dokuz, on

Directions Left: Sol

Right: Sağ Up: Yukarı Down: Aşağı

Straight: Düz

Ahead: İlerde

Accommodation Hotel: Otel Pension: Pansiyon Campground: Kamping Is there a free room?: Boş oda var mı? One night: Bir gece Two nights: İki gece Is breakfast included?: Kahvaltı dahil mi?

Behind: Arkada

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Turkish Food & Drink Ayran: Salty yogurt drink

Fındık: Hazelnuts

Balık: Fish Et: Meat

Kahve: Coffee Kokoreç: Grilled and spicy sheep intestines

Tavuk: Chiken Bira: Beer

Menemen: Omlet-like dish with tomatoes and

Börek: Rich pastry Çay: Tea Çiğ köfte: Raw meatballs Köfte: Meatballs Çorba: Soup Dondurma: Ice cream Dürüm: Pita like roll used to wrap food Döner: Turkish kebab

various ingredients Midye: Mussels Patlıcan: Eggplant/Aubergine Peynir: Cheese Pide: Turkish pizza-like dish Rakı: Strong alcoholic ansiseed drink Şarap: Wine Şeftali: Peach

Elma: Apple

Yumurta: Egg Zeytin: Olive

Et: meat (this definition might not include

Yağ: Oil/Fat

chicken sometimes)

Useful expressions Kolay gelsin: May it come easy (Said to any person involved in some kind of work) Elinize sağlık: Health to your hands (Said to the person who made/created something. Most often to the cook) Çok yaşayın: Bless you (Said to the sneezing person. The reply is: Siz de görün) Afiyet olsun: Bon appetite/Enjoy your meal Şerefe: Cheers Geçmiş olsun: Get well soon Hayırlı olsun: Let it serve you well (Said as a compliment to a person who got somethng new) Hayırlı işler: Wishing a rewarding work upon someone İyi şanslar: Good luck İyi yolculuklar: Have a nice trip İyi tatiller: Have a nice holiday Doğum günün kutlu olsun: Happy birthday Tebrikler: Congratulations Arranged by Türkçe Atölyesi

Fourth edition, May 2014 Free distribution Thanks to everyone who made Hike East possible, especially to all of the awesome Hike East partners throughout Turkey and Georgia who have offered discounts to our readers! The contents of this guide have been assembled in good faith and with every possible attempt at accuracy. We apologize for any accidental errors contained in its pages.

To take the discounts in this booklet, please make sure your copy is signed by the partner you take it or at least partner’s name written on the back cover!

All rights reserved. Contact the Hike East team! Asmalımescit St. No. 29 / 4, Beyoğlu, İstanbul +90 212 245 09 88 info@hikeast.com www.hikeast.com Credits İlker Bayraktar (Project Manager) Sierra Hunt, Isadora Bilancino (Content Writer) Çağatay Apaydın (Graphic Design) Lityum Ltd. (Web Design) Special Thank To Celal Akata Marion Howa Julia Kotowski Cevdet Oğuz Chillout Hostels Ali R. Aassi ESN Turkey OZA

Hike East is your free guide to all the best that Turkey has to offer. Trek along some of the most spectacular long-distance trails on earth, check out ancient ruins and magnificent geological formations, or explore huge and endlessly fascinating Ä°stanbul. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all right here, including countless discounts and special opportunities just for readers of Hike East!